Huatulco Eye Living and Loving the Oaxacan Riviera Issue No. 10 November, 2011
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In this issue...
Editor’s Letter “We were all children once. And we all share the desire for the well-being of our children, which has always been and will continue to be the most universally cherished aspiration of humankind.”- We the Children: end decade review of the follow-up to the World Summit for Children Report of the Secretary General of the UN. (2001)
C
ruise ships are gliding into Santa Cruz, there is a cool breeze from the mountains, Amigos de la Musica concerts begin and emails announcing the arrival of friends fill our inbox. Sweet November! Photo By Camille Grace Photography
Eye Team Editor: Jane Bauer Writers/ Contributors: Marcia Chaiken, Caryl Delaney, Brooke Gazer, Liz Healy, Frances Lopez, Carminia Magaña, Ximena Osegueda, Alfredo Patiño, Carole Reedy, Alvin Starkman, Kathy Taylor, Doreen Woelfel, Photography: Camille McAdie, Luca Tognazzi Layout Manager: Jane Bauer Advertising Manager: Alfredo Patino Opinions and words are those of the author and do not reflect the opinion of Huatulco Eye. To be a collaborator please send us an email huatulcoeye@yahoo.com
'How did you get here?' people often ask and I am sometimes tempted to reply facetiously 'by plane', but I know what they really mean is 'why are you here?' I am an immigrant. I don't often think of myself in those terms since the word immigrant seems to conjure up the idea of flight from something; war, natural disaster, poverty, persecution or fleeing towards something; better education, healthcare, higher quality of life. Immigrant has become almost a dirty word; many of us seem to prefer ‘expat, snowbird, foreigner, long-term visitor’. We want to be lumped in with Hemingway, Buffett and Stein, rather than the Punjabi taxi driver, the Oaxacan gardener or the Guatemalan nanny. But are we really different? The question isn't 'how' but the 'why' and when we begin to look at the reasons, we see what we have in common- prospect of a better life. What else could possess anybody to leave 'home' and start fresh, make new friends, get a new job and possibly have to learn a new language! Change can be exhausting and exasperating but extremely rewarding. This month the US celebrates Thanksgiving- a remembrance of coming together. Whatever your politics, wherever you live, fight against the misconceptions that divide us and give thanks for the things that bring us together. We explore a few of those things in this issue; great Italian food, opera and love of animals! And speaking of change, we hope you enjoy the new format. This month: Use those Spanish words you have been learning....hola November 20th -celebrate the Mexican Revolution and Universal Children's Day! If you are on the coast- go rafting- exhilarating! See Pate de Fua- in Oaxaca or Huatulco. Extend a hand or reach out for one. See you next month,
Jane
M
lco’s Li u t tt a u le H It
aly
yth : Could it be that many Italians saw the Italian movie called Puerto Escondido and consequently made a mass exodus to the southern coast of Oaxaca the same way The Night of the Iguana drew Canadians and Americans to Puerto Vallarta? Or, could it simply be that there are more opportunities for business and adventure than there are in the old country? Whatever the reason - myths aside - we are glad they are here! The Italian element has been a delightful and delicious addition to the Oaxacan Riviera – mainly Puerto Escondido, the Puerto Angel area, and now Huatuclo. Who are these lively, hard-working, seemingly inexhaustible Italians and why have they come here? I have spoken to several members of the Italian community to get to the root of this friendly flavorful invasion which adds a very special element to the Mini Melting Pot that the Oaxacan Riviera has become. Luca, an open-water scuba instructor for Gravity Sports Divers, has lived here for two and a half years. He had previously been to Mexico but mainly the Riviera Maya. He came here to discover the beaches and to have a real Mexican experience. His diving career includes the Maldives, the Red Sea, Africa and Indonesia. “Here the ocean is full of life,” comments Luca, who has seen his share of whales, sea horses, mantas and much more. Originally from Milano, Luca lived in Rome for six years and worked in the music business as a booking agent for concerts. “The biggest difference between Mexico and Italy,” says Luca, “is the sense of time with Mexico having a more tranquil, laid-back pace – especially Huatulco.” A self -starting entrepreneur Giordana Ravera from a small town near Torino in northern Italy has lived in Huatulco for seven years. Most of us know her as the owner and manager of the successful restaurant El Rigoletto. She sold that business two years ago to be able to spend more time with Giovanni, her son, and to not work so much at night. She started the take-out or eat-in trattoria aptly called Giordiana's where the food is fresh and fabulous and the company, both of Giordiana and Venetian Manuel Grosso, as gracious hosts, is delightful. “We have an affinity for Mexican life. We learn Spanish quickly and identify with the culture,” says Giordana Giordana came with her friend and colleague Barbara Bodega from Cuomo. Barbara makes the cakes and desserts for Giordana and also helps out in the new pizzeria run by two other Italians, Gianluca from Trieste and Nicoletta from Bologna, who had previously lived in other coastal towns with other Italian restaurants before starting up Solo Pizza on Bugambilia, not far from Little Italy.
By Caryl Delaney Giordiana´s nephew Estefano Biora has a bakery where he specializes in “artisan” breads such as: whole wheat, garlic, olive, tuna, and onion is now branching out with pizzas and pastries. Several local restaurants feature Estefano´s bread which is delicious! Maximiliano Marchese, owner of West Park Café, is from Rome. He came to Huatulco five years ago and has a loyal following of expats and nationals alike. He started at Agave in the Zocalo (now Blue) then went on to Santa Cruz where he had his business in Hotel Máxico. Last year he moved his café to La Crucecita. He spent many nights as handyman and carpenter in preparation for West Park Café where he combines Japanese, Vietnamese, American cuisines. Max makes the flakiest croissants and yummiest cinnamon rolls for miles around. Max is an example of old world charm in a tropical international setting. “I like to provide a relaxed atmosphere, a home away from home for my customers,” says Max Franco Fiordiriso, owner and manager of the restaurant Mamma Mia, is another Italian success story. He has been in Huatulco for five years. This energetic man always has time to greet his customers with his lovely smile and courteous service. Although he has just recently taken on a new adventure- parenting, he continues to serve authentic Italian dishes with his usual flare. Franco says that while he has seen the movie Puerto Escondido and liked it and it certainly did make him curious about the Oaxacan Riviera, it wasn´t the driving force for his move to Mexico.
Contributed By Carminia Magaña
P
ua
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ulco Huat l a e ,8pm no R 12th Cami r t e b m sos a ejo Nove 0 pe 5 1 Con ets Foto d Tick n a sic a Mu h a m Ya
Pate
ATÉ DE FUÁ is a sextet whose exciting instrumentation- banjo, accordion, bandonion, trumpet, clarinet, guitar, bass, drum set, vibraphone, cavaquinho- highlights the creativity and vision of its members. It is an outstanding fusion of genres, such as, Dixieland, traditional jazz, tango, pasodoble, bal-mussette, etc. Indeed, if the best music is created through fusion, this group corroborates it. Two Argentines and four Mexicans are like an acoustic UN that flows better than any presidential summit. Their repertoire of stories and characters captivates us first with its unmatchable swing, and then with its sense of irony and dark humour. Its clear language and superb acoustic resources has taken them to more than 200 stages in Mexico and abroad. After only six years since their creation, in 2005, they have become one of the jazz bands with greater projection and growth in popularity in Mexico. In three years they have sold more than 60,000 copies of their recordings. Pate de Fua plays at the Camino Real Huatulco November 12th at 8pm.
31st International Book Fair of Oaxaca By Ximena Osegueda
P
erhaps the best time of the year to visit majestic Oaxaca City will be the weekend of November 4th,, when the 31st International Book Fair of Oaxaca begins. Famous singer Lila Downs will inaugurate this two-week event on Saturday November 5th, setting the tone for two fabulous weeks of literature, films and music that will end on November 16th. The theme for this year's fair is cinema. Six films will be presented and director Arturo Ripstein will receive an award for his prolific trajectory in which he has directed thirty-seven films. Also, a lucky young writer will receive the 2nd Aura Estrada Literary Award, in an effort to promote new talents. For music lovers, there will be a number of concerts; classical, Mexican and Jazz. Besides Ms. Downs' interesting contemporary take on traditional Mexican music, the main attractions will be the jazz band Paté de Fuá –which will also be performing in Huatulco on November 12th and Mexico's most prominent classical flute payer and international celebrity, Horacio Franco, will be closing with the last concert on November 13th. A broad spectrum of topics will be addressed in the conferences and films, ranging from current issues
such as Mexican politics and drug smuggling, to academic debates about the interaction of cinema and literature, visual arts in literature, journalism, vanguards and French literature. There will also be a section dedicated to children's literature, and taking advantage to the proximity of Halloween and the Day of the Dead festivities, there will be plenty of zombies and haunted houses to delight the little ones and the child within us. So if you are considering visiting the famous ruins of Monte Albán, the magnificent ethno-botanical garden or the baroque cathedral, it is a great time to visit this city full of ancient and contemporary culture. For the full program, please visit the website: www.vivelalectura.com.mx
From left to right: Lila Downs, Arturo Ripstein, Horatio Franco
Mexican Revolution
Emiliano Zapata
Porfirio Diaz
N
ovember 20th marked the official beginning of the Mexican Revolution in 1910. Characterized as one of the top 5 significant revolutions of the 20th century, it has all the elements of a classic piece of literature; heroes, villains, women warriors and a constitution. It was “the” subject for influential muralists Rivera, Siqueiros, and Orozco early on in their art, to say nothing of the literature, films (see Like Water for Chocolate) and music. While we usually think of Pancho Villa and Emiliano Zapata, it was two other men who were the pivotal players on that day; Porfirio Diaz and Francisco Madero. In 1910, 80 year old President Porfirio Diaz, had been in office for over thirtyfour years. Although he'd promised to give up the re-election business... he wanted just one more term. At that time there were grass-root uprisings of poor farmers, indigenous peoples, and workers. Diaz, half-Mixtec from
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Pancho Villa
Francisco Madero
Oaxaca, was especially harsh with the Yaqui Indians, decimating their population because of up-risings, labor strikes, and demands for human rights, as well as for the return of land to the people. The issues with the Catholic Church were still tenuous as well. Publicly decrying their power and land ownership, Diaz was silently supporting the Church's role in continuation of the Hacienda systemland owned by few, worked on by slaves, sharecroppers and poorly paid workers. His own brother, Felix, was murdered by Juchitan insurgents, when he stole their patron saint statue, cut off the feet, and returned it to them. Sadly, they did the same to him, and Diaz backed off on diminishing the church's role in Mexico, it is thought, because of this incident. As Octavio Paz pointed out, “Diaz's government had nothing to add to the poor”. Three thousand families owned 55% of Mexico, 17 families owned a 1/5 of all land. The power
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Mexico's economy grew in the early 1900's as Diaz's policies encouraging foreign investment in oil, mining and natural resources, and not really caring on whose backs this was done. Nearly 60% of all foreigncapital invested in Mexico was from the US and Great Britain. They owned the mines and oil fields, as well as large cattle ranches in the north. In Tamaulipas alone, at one point 50,000 barrels of oil a day were being exported tax-free. Everyone was getting wealthy but the Mexican worker/farmer. But as labor issues rose, resources dried up, and in a precarious world economy at the time, Mexico suffered economically heading into 1910. When Diaz proposed an “open” election in 1910, showing all that Mexico was indeed a democracy, Francisco Madero took him up on it. Francisco Madero was not exactly the “revolutionary” type when we have visions of Villa and Zapata. A son of a privileged family (said to be 5th
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wealthiest family at the time), a vegetarian and nondrinker of alcohol, Madero grew up expecting to take on the lands, the mines, the factories, and other family holdings. Educated in Europe and US (even one year at UC Berkeley), he was a business man. He was unusual in his time in that he was reported to have been a fair employer, paying living wages, donating for schools, hospitals, etc., and was not particularly political. He is identified as a “spiritualist” in lots of literature, suggesting he talked with spirits, among other things, and led an exemplary life as a result. His political awakening came when witnessing Bernardo Reyes, then governor of Nuevo Leon, and a general of Diaz's, dealing with protestors. Madero felt he was way too harsh and he entered politics in protest. Interest in Madero spread and he began to draw crowds wherever he went. He was attracting just the demographic that had been denied their rights, the poor, well aware that they still did not have their promised property, workers laboring under extreme conditions. Diaz jailed Madero in San Luis Potosi, in early 1910. He escaped, fled to San Antonio, Texas, and from there issued the Plan of San Luis Potosi, announcing the revolution. He proclaimed the election void, declaredhimself the real president of Mexico, and promised to return land and free political prisoners.
The hour was specific for the revolution to start: 6 PM on November 20 ,1910. Northern Mexico took up the fight immediately, especially Chihuahua and Morelos (with Emiliano Zapata leading), joining other forces from the south. By May of 1911 Morelos' forces were in control of Ciudad Juarez and Diaz resigned and fled the country. By November 1911, Madero was elected president, considered the fairest election in Mexico up until then. But for the Revolution, it was only the beginning. Ten years of fighting, rebellions, government changes and assassinations plagued the evolving Mexico. By February 1913, Madero and his VP Suarez were murdered during a coup d'etat by one of his generals, Victoriano Huerta. Land reform issues were moving too slowly for the likes of Zapata and Villa. Venusiano Carranza was wary of Madero's intentions. Carranza troops eventually took on Zapata and Villa to gain control of Mexico. Zapata was lured to his death by Carranza loyalists in 1919, providing another powerful martyr, along with Madero. The Revolution continued until 1920. Carranza eventually became president and is credited with the writing of the Constitution of 1917, which includes social and economic reforms.
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Opposition once again raised havoc as Alvaro Obregon, a general who supported Carranza initially, and whose influence was on the rise, rebelled as Carranza made a move to “appoint” his own successor. Obregon led a revolt. Carranza, heading to Veracruz in an attempt to flee after resigning from government, was murdered by Obregon loyalists in May 1920. Obregon (President from 1920 to 1924) himself was murdered shortly after he was re-elected a second time, in 1928, by a “Catholic fanatic”. And so it goes..... There are many excellent books on The Revolution, biographies of key people, including: Villa and Zapata: A History of the Mexican Revolution, by Frank McLynn, and La Revolucion: Mexico's Great Revolution as Memory, Myth and History, by Thomas Benjamin, that are easily accessible, fascinating reads. Octavio Paz, in his The Labyrinth of Solitude, has interesting takes on the Revolution, its cause, character and aftermath, as well. The Revolution is a rich, fascinating, complicated history, and many feel has not yet been fully realized, as pockets of dissent still prevail in Mexico today continuing the fight for the rights of the underrepresented, the poor, and indigenous. Check out my blog: www.doreenelizahuatulcopassages.blogspot.com
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Cacahuates: From Soup to Nuts! By Kathy Taylor If asked to list the staples of Mexican cuisine, most people would name rice, beans, corn, chiles, lime, and cilantro. Well, add peanuts to the list. While used as a thickening agent in many dishes, peanuts also star in salsas and soups. A nutritious snack, throughout Mexico peanuts roasted with chiles and salt are common, but it is in Oaxaca that they are most addictive, typically studded with roasted cloves of garlic and whole chiles. Just try to eat only a few! Cerveza, por favor! Cacahuates, from the Nahuatl word tlalcacahuatl, are thought to have been discovered in Peru, cultivated by preColumbian cultures, and then spread throughout Mesoamerica, and ultimately the world, by the conquistadors. Peanuts are officially a legume, and grow just a few inches under the surface, in light, sandy loam soil. They require five months of warm weather, and an annual rainfall of 500 to 1,000 mm (20 to 39 in) or the equivalent in irrigation. Our part of Mexico has all the requirements for peanut cultivation, and Oaxaca is the third largest peanut producing state in Mexico. By coincidence, sea turtles and peanuts share a confluence of economic and ecological spinoff on the Oaxaca coast. When the Mexican government closed the sea turtle fishing industry in 1990, the door to eco-tourism in the area opened (Centro Mexicano de la Tortuga). At the same time, the government introduced a movement toward sustainable agro-economic development to the area. One of the programs established was the cultivation of peanuts and sesame in the community of El Tomatal, near Puerto Escondido. What was originally an agricultural commodity project became value-added cottage industry post-Hurricane Paulina in 1997. In the devastated communities along the coast, as part of an emergency health plan, workshops were held to teach the local people how to best achieve nutritional value from their crops. The realization that peanuts could be more than just a cash crop for the community, at a time when commodity prices were low, was the impetus for the establishment of Las Productoras de el Tomatal Ecologicas S.C.L, located about 10km from Puerto Escondido in the community of El Tomatal. Roughly signed and palapa roofed, the workshop is home to a women's co-operative that last year processed over 4 tons of peanuts. They produce organic roasted peanuts, peanut butter, and tahini for an expanding range of markets. The day that we visited recently, 3 of the co-op's 10 members were sealing and labelling jars of Crema de Cacahuate for a shipment to Mexico City. Productoras' manager, Constanza Santos López, explained that “nada de hombres” (no men!) were involved in the co-op, with the exception of the husband of one associate who grows the peanuts. Their peanut butter is delicious, as are the roasted peanuts! Beginning this month, Productoras' de el Tomatal Crema de Cacahuate will be available at Café Juanita in Santa Cruz. The co-op also has also written a recipe pamphlet, Flores y Semillas, showcasing their sesame and peanut products. Here is a great peanut recipe , an adaptation of the Co-op's Chicken in Cacahuate sauce. Buen provecho!
Photos By Kathy Taylor
Chicken in Peanut and Chile Sauce 1 dried ancho pepper 1 ½ cups chicken stock 3 whole black peppercorns 3 whole allspice 1 cinnamon stick, broken into pieces 3 whole cloves 1 small white onion, sliced 1 clove garlic minced 1 tablespoon peanut or cooking oil 1 cup roasted tomatoes 2/3 cup unsalted dry roasted peanuts (or ½ cup peanut butter) 1 tortilla, toasted 1 chipotle pepper in adobo (tinned) or more for taste. 1 chicken, cut into parts and skinned Cut the dried pepper open; discard stems and seeds. Tear pepper into small pieces and place in a small bowl. Add ½ cup of chicken stock ; let stand for 30 min to soften peppers. Do NOT drain. In a mortar or molcajete, combine the peppercorns, allspice, cinnamon and cloves; grind to a coarse powder. Set aside. In a small skillet, cook onion and garlic in hot oil over medium-high heat for 5- 10 minutes or until tender and lightly browned, stirring frequently. Transfer the onion mixture and tomatoes to a blender. Add the softened pepper with stock, the ground spice mixture, the remaining 1 cup chicken stock, peanuts, tortilla, and chipotle. Blend till smooth. Place the chicken in a 4 to 5 qt. slow cooker. Pour the tomato mixture over, cover and cook on low for 6 hours, or on high for 3 hours. If cooking on the stove, place in a heavy pan and simmer covered for 1 ½ hours on medium heat. Serve with rice. Kathy Taylor is a freelance writer who arrived in Huatulco in 2007 by sailboat. Her passions are food, sailing and Mexico. She writes about life in Huatulco on her blog www.lavidahuatulco.blogspot.com
Huatulco Restaurant Guide Look for Ad in this Issue Around the town... La Crucecita Antojitos Gela Macuil 203 8am- 4pm Inexpensive street food; tacos, sopes, tlayudas
Grillo Marinero Carrizal 908 958 587 0783 www.grillomarinero.huatulco.tv
1pm- 8pm Local Seafood, Family Friendly, Inexpensive
Blue Bugambilia 701 Tel. 958 105 1599 7am-12am Inexpensive local food.
Grillos Bugambilia 703 Tel. 958 583 4071 Open 24 hours Local, Inexpensive
Café Casa Mayor Bugambillia 601 Tel. 958 587 1881 www.cafecasamayor.com 8am-1am Outdoor seating, local food, live music
Hemingway’s Gardenia / Palma Real Tel: 958 100 7339
Cocina Dona Lupita Sector T Tel 958 109 2393 8am-6pm Local inexpensive mexican eatery
Kabana Flamboyan 310 Tel. 958 587 0484 9am-2am Bar, big screen, on the zocalo
Delizie Italiane Palma Real/ Gardenia Tel 958 583 4324 10am-10pm Closed Mondays A/C Italian deli, take-out
Kristal Rose Cocotillo 218 Tel. 958 587 0605 7.30am- 11.30pm A/C, outdoor seating, international food
El Sabor de Oaxaca Guamuchil 206 Tel: 958 587 0060 7am- 11pm Oaxacan/Mexican Cuisine
La Albahaca Gardenia 101 Tel. 958 585 2110 8am- 5pm Comida corrida, delivery, local food
Fonda Carito Inside Mercado 3 de Mayo Tel . 958 583 7784 7.30am- 8pm Inexpensive local food.
www.hemingwayscantina.com 5pm-12am Closed Mondays
Tex-Mex, family friendly, patio, bar, live music
La Crema Gardenia 311 Tel. 958 587 0702 7pm-2am pizza, bar,
La Crucecita Bugumbilia 501 Tel. 958 587 0906 8am-10pm Traditional oaxacan, carnitas, inexpensive Las Primas Cafe Gardenia esq. Palo Verde Tel: 958 113 1415 12.00pm- 12.00am Closed Tuesdays Outdoor Seating, Family Friendly, Dessert Los Gallos Palma Real 202 Tel.958 100 4675 1.30pm-11pm Lunch counter with mexican home cooking. Mamma Mia Gardenia/Palma Real Open 2pm Closed Tuesdays Italian, Patio, Delivery Pollo Imperial Carrizal 1104 Tel. 958 587 0498 9am-9pm Delivery, Roast Chicken, Rigoletto Ocotillo 304 Tel. 958 587 1246 5pm- 12pm Closed Wednesdays Italian, pizza, take-out Terra-cotta Gardenia 902 Tel: 958 587 0165 7.30am- 11.30pm International Cuisine A/C, Outdoor Seating,
Santa Cruz Café Bertina Yellow Building Tel.958 101 3111 8am- 6pm breakfast/lunch, inexpensive, local food, family friendly Café Huatulco Sta. Cruz Kiosk Tel 958 587 1228 8am-11.30pm coffee, tamales, snacks Café Juanita 211 Monte Alban Tel. 958 587 2655 8.30am- 10pm Closed Mondays cafejuanitamexico.com Breakfast, salads, baguettes, dinner menu. El Muelle Next to Pemex- Sta. Cruz Tel. 958 105 1437 www.zitrik.com 1pm-1am Ocean view, romantic La Terraza Andador Santa Cruz Tel 958 106 8966 1:00pm- 10:00pm Closed Sundays Dinner, reservations, romantic, dessert Vel el Mar Santa Cruz Beach 958 587 0364 8am-10pm Ocean view, outdoor seating, large groups, family friendly
Coffee, Ice Creams, Cakes and much more!
Carrizal 908. La Crucecita, Huatulco, Oaxaca Tel:/Ph.. 01 (958) 58 7-07-83 www.grillomarinero.huatulco.tv
A taste of Italy in the heart of Huatulco Step inside and feast your senses Calle Gardenia, Esq. Palo Verde, La Crucesita. 958 113 14 1516 Closed on Tuesday
Tangolunda Alebrijes Hotel Plaza Tangolunda Tel. 958 581 0504 8am- 12am international food, groups, family friendly Azul Profundo Camino Real Hotel Tel.958 583 0300 7pm- 12pm Thai-mex food, romantic, on the beach, reservations
Hole 19 Tangolunda Golf Course 8am-4pm Tel. 958 581 0171 Outdoor seating, breakfast/lunch, large groups Viena Tangolunda in front of Barcelo Hotel Tel. 958 581 0035 5pm- 11pm Closed Sundays Outdoor seating, dinner, international cuisine
Open for dinner starting Nov. 9th Breakfast/ Lunch 8.30am - 4.00pm Tuesday- Sunday
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Tel. 958 581 0035 Cel. 958 106 5760 bahia tangolunda- in front of Barcelo
Chahue L’Echalote Calle Zapoteco Tel. 958 587 2480 www.edencosta.com 2pm-11pm Closed Monday Outdoor seating, international flavours
Senor Puck’s Bar & Grill Blvd. Benito Juarez Tel: 958 587 1883 Open Daily 8am-11pm International/ Canadian Cuisine, A/C, Bar, Dinner, Sports on TV
Konnichiwa Sushi Plaza Chahue Tel. 958 1051550 4pm-11pm Outdoor Seating, Dinner Sushi
Maguey
Meson al Natural Best Western Tel 958 587 0945 www.bwhuatulco.com 9am-4pm Closed Mondays Vegetarian, Outdoor Seating
Galileo Maguey Beach 10am-6pm, Closed Wed. Seafood on the beach.
Santa Clara Mazateco, Sector R Tel. 958 587 1047 8am- 9pm Mexican Food, Family Friendly, Large Groups
Los Gallos Exquisite Mexican Home Cooking Carrizal & Palma Real La Crucecita, Huatulco Tel. 958 587 0139
Caray Beach Bar Maguey Beach 11am-6pm, Closed Mondays www.caraybeachbar.com Seafood on the beach.
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It’s all about
By Carole Reedy
p
s a sI o n
T
he Auditorio Nacional-situated in Chapultepec park right on Mexico City's famous street Paseo de la Reforma--is an enormous venue, seating 10,000 people. Exit your taxi in front of the Auditorio and climb the 50 little stairs to its entrance. Already you can feel the excitement and tension building. Some early arriving opera-goers are sipping their last cup of coffee or nibbling a candy bar in the open-air lobby‌for that extra shot of energy that will sustain them through the four-plus hours of music and drama ahead. Other patrons view photos in the small art gallery situated in the lobby. Friends meet, exchanging hugs, kisses, and greetings. No longer is the opera a formal affair reserved for the upper class. Here you find people of all ages--some in high heels and jewels, others in jeans with backpacks--all enjoying the minutes before the first call, the primera llamada. Now they scurry into the auditorium, where there awaits a giant screen and topnotch audio system currently announcing future operas.
Opera in New York, where opera fans are taking their seats. Soon there's complete silence as you hear the first notes of the orchestra tuning up.The conductor takes the stage, and the drama begins. Live opera transmissions from NY to Mexico City‌and other locations! Opera, with its mix of music and poetry, has been sweeping audiences off their feet for more than 400 years. Over time the opera has undergone a complex evolution, the latest delivered live right here to Mexico City from New York's Metropolitan Opera Company (the Met) in the form of high-definition transmissions via satellite. Currently shown on six continents, it all began in 2006 when the Met launched a series of live-performance, high-definition satellite transmissions that were shown in movie theaters around the world. Starting with six operas transmitted to 56 theaters in four countries, just five years later 11 operas will be transmitted to 1,600 venues in 53 countries. Why such a dramatic rise in the world's interest in this esoteric art form?
Several factors stand out: opera conveys passion, emotional truths and stories of the human condition, and the Met transmissions allow people around the globe to see and hear the greatest voices of our time convey these discoveries in a comfortable venue, with extraordinary images and audio, at a reasonable price. While the opera fan viewing this performance from his/her seat in New York's Lincoln Center for the Performing Arts has paid between $30 to $400 USD for the privilege, the average ticket price worldwide to view a remote transmission is about $20 USD. The opera world's most famous stars-Anna Nebrebko, Natalie Dessay, Placido Domingo, and Ramon Vargas-are among the outstanding performers that delight audiences during the afternoon hours. And with the help of subtitles in your language, it's easy to follow the plot. There's a constellation of benefits to seeing the opera via live transmission. The most exciting of these extras are
'Music conveys moods and images. Even in opera, where plots deal with the structure of destiny, it is music, not words, that provides power.' Marcel Marceau English) with famous
Domingo, Renee Fleming, Deborah
Nacional. This one-hour, Spanish-
opera stars during the intermissions.
Voight, Susan Graham, and Natalie
language lecture begins at 10:30 am
during the intermissions. (Opera has
Dessay offer a peek into the dressing
(9:30 am if the opera starts at 11) and
interviews (in
rooms, the scenery, and the hearts of
is given by México City's beloved,
the singers.
world-renowned Sergio Vela, who
understand the opera from the point of
Arrive even earlier to experience a treat
relevance
view of the experts: the singers,
reserved up until now only for México
transmitted that day. The delightful
directors,
City opera-goer but now available in
and informative charla is free to all,
at least one, if not two, intermissions.)
The
Met
long takes
discusses the historical and musical
advantage of this time to help us
designers,
and
stage
technicians. Interviews hosted by
ALL
opera greats including Placido
performance
transmissionss:
the
pre-
charla (chat) in the
of
the
opera
being
best enjoyed with a cup of coffee as you prepare for the exciting hours ahead.
Lunario just behind the Auditorio
November 5 -Wagner's Siegfried, part three of the Ring Cycle
Other venues in Mexico offering live transmission of the operas:
November 19- An extravagant production of Philip Glass'
Durango - Teatro Victoria
unforgettable Satyagraha
Cancún - Universidad del Caribe
December 3-The much heralded Rodelina (Handel).
Ciudad Juárez - Centro Cultural Paso del Norte
December 10-Gounod's classic retelling of the Faust legend
Cuernavaca - Teatro del IMTA
January 21- An extraordinary new work, The Enchanted
Guadalajara- Teatro Diana
Island, drawn from Shakespeare with an all-star cast
León- Foro Cultural Guanajuato
headed by Placido Domingo
Mexico City - Auditorio Nacional
February 11- The cataclysmic climax of the Ring Cycle,
Monterrey - Auditorio Luis Elzondo
Coming up this season:
Gotterdammerung.
Oaxaca - Teatro Macedonio Alcala
February 25- Verdi's Ernani.
San Luis Potosi - Centro Cultural Universitario
April 7- Anna Netrevko's dazzling portrayal of Massenet's
NEXT: Huatulco?
Manon.
These operas are transmitted on Saturday afternoons
April 14- Concluding with Natalie Dessay, in her first
at 1 pm Eastern Standard Time (noon in México City).
Violetta at the Met. Opera-going is all about passion, according to Fred Plotkin in his informative and thought-provoking guide Opera 101: A Complete Guide to Learning and Loving
Hux Pool
Everything for the installation and maintenance of your pool.
Pumps, Hoses, Pool Filters, Skimmers, Lighting,, 90% Chlorine,Clarifiers, Anti-Algee
Jazmin 32 Sector H La Crucecita, Huatulco huxpool@hotmail.com Tel 958 105 1542
Contact us if you are interested in helping bring the Met Live Opera Transmissions to the coast. huatulcoeye@yahoo.com
Beyond the Beach... By Brooke Gazer
Magic Waterfalls
Hagia Sofia
While it is the beaches that draw people to the Oaxacan Riviera not everyone wants to spend their entire time lolling in the water or baking on the sand. You may want to get out and explore, take in some local color and there are a variety of activities available. If you are like me and have what the locals refer to as “piel de pollo” (skin the color of raw chicken), you need some time out of the sun. Huatulco is located where the Sierra Madre del Sur meets the Pacific Ocean so that venturing an hour or two into the mountains presents an entirely different eco system. Due to the altitude, this area is cooler than the coast and there are several excursions to choose from. 1. Finca la Gloria is no longer a working coffee plantation but offers eco- tours where you can see both shade grown coffee and a variety of other interesting vegetation, some of which is used for medicinal purposes. The locals have developed an outdoor butterfly sanctuary within the finca and the highlight of the trip is a refreshing swim in a series of pools and waterfalls resembling something out of a movie set. Entrance to the butterfly sanctuary is an additional 20 pesos over the cost of a tour. 2. Magic Waterfalls will take you on an easy hike through the forest and past a series of falls, the most dramatic one drops about 20 meters and you will have an opportunity to swim under one of the lesser falls . 3. Pluma Hidalgo is a region where some of the world's best coffee is grown and a number working coffee plantations welcome visitors. In addition to a group tour, it is possible to take a taxi from Santa Maria Huatulco, taxies can be hired at about 150 pesos per hour. Be prepared for a rather rough ride in a taxi however, since some of the roads are rather rustic. Several local tour companies offer all day tours to Pluma Hidalgo, Finca La Glora or Magic Waterfalls. Each is a full day tour and the transportation is in vans or mini buses accommodating 8-12 people. Lunch is included and tours are offered in both English and Spanish. The cost is from $40-$65USD per person per tour.
Cooking Classes 4. Hagia Sofia has extensive tropical garden featuring over 200 different exotic flowering plants and shrubs in addition to an orchard with 80 varieties of fruit trees. They offer tours with or without transportation and lunch from 250450 pesos per person. If you are planning to arrive on your own it is necessary to make advance arrangements so that a guide will be available. www.hagiasofia.mx 5. Santa Maria Huatulco Located just past the Airport, this was the main town before FONATUR developed the Bays of Huatulco. Santa Maria is a traditional agricultural community and although there is not a lot for tourists, a stroll though the market gives one a sense of local color. The rather basic church dates back to 1908 but what is of interest is that part of the original cross of the Huatulco legend is buried here. For me, the main attraction of Santa Maria is inside the municipal building where there are several murals depicting the legend of the Cross of Huatulco. Did you know that the name Huatulco means “the place where wood is worshiped” in Zapotec? You can take a local bus from La Crucecita to Santa Maria Huatulco or hire a taxi as a guide. Many of Huatulco's taxi drivers speak English and will be delighted to give you a tour at a rate of about 150 pesos per hour. Before hiring one make sure he can show you the through the building and explain the legend of the cross. 6. Temazcal is a pre-Hispanic steam bath with aromatic herbs in the steam. It is believed to have both medicinal and spiritual benefits. The temazcal is a small adobe building with a fire either in the center or near one wall. Herbs and water are sprinkled over lava rock so that the heat and the steam induce sweating cleansing the body of impurities. It can be a space big enough for only one or two people or a larger domed structure accommodating up to 20. Frequently the temazcal is accompanied with a mud bath to exfoliate the skin and it may also be followed by a relaxing massage. Prices for a temazcal with a mud bath range from 300 pesos to 700 pesos depending on the facility.
7. La Crucecita This is downtown Huatulco (El Centro). While there are many excellent restaurants and bars around Huatulco, the lions share are located in La Crucecita. A good starting point for a tour of the town center is the church. A portrait of the Virgin of Guadalupe takes up the entire ceiling of the nave and is purported to be the largest one in Mexico. As in all Mexican towns, the Zocalo is positioned right in front of the church. This is a great place to people watch either from a park bench or from one of several bars or cafes surrounding the park. At dusk the trees are loaded with black birds, appropriately named Grackles, who compete for space on every inch of phone wire. The cacophony of “grackeling” practically obliterates any other sound around the Zocalo. You will find several shops selling jewellery, t-shirts and crafts, all of which are open until 8 pm or later. Oaxaca is famous for its woven cotton in a rainbow of pastels. Even if you are not interested in buying it is interesting to stop by a weaving shop where there goods are produced on location. It is likely that you will hear the looms clacking before you see one of the shops. These looms are enormous and weaving is done by men using foot pedals to operate the mechanism while nimble hands move the thread. This is heavy physical work as they set themselves a rhythm and appear to be dancing on the spot. 8. Copalita Eco-Archaeological Park opened in October 2010 and while there are many potential archaeological sites on the Pacific coast this is the only one as yet to be unearthed. The ruins date back over 2200 years and like many ancient sites in Mexico it was occupied by a variety of different groups over the centuries. An interpretive center displays both artefacts found at the site and a sampling of pieces from around Oaxaca. The ball court and the principle plaza have been unearthed but excavation will continue for years to come. In addition to the archaeological finds, great care has been taken to preserve the natural habitat of the area and it is pleasant walk through the semi-tropical forest with a breathtaking viewing spot overlooking the Copalita Delta. Trained guides can be hired at the site for three hours tours or you can walk the trails on your own in about half that time. The park is open Tuesday through Sunday from 8AM to 5PM with an entrance fee of 100 pesos per person. A guide is extra. 9. Cooking Classes are an excellent way to appreciate Oaxacan cuisine. A typical hands on class in Huatulco runs 3 hours and is followed by enjoying the delicious lunch which has been prepared. Cost is $65 USD per person and the classes are offered in English. www.huatulco-catering.com
10. Bird watching… this region offers a wealth of birdlife, with almost 300 different species. The Huatulco area is particularly important since it is a migratory route for eighty percent of the birds in Mexico and it is the last resting place before and after their long flight to South America. For the serious birders, Huatulco has some knowledgeable guides who can take you on an excursion but it is possible to see a vast array of birds just by walking on your own. The Copalita River is an exceptional place to see a wide variety of birds and is easily reached by taxi. The best time for birding is from sunrise until 10AM and from 4PM until after dusk.
Brooke Gazer has a bed and breakfast in Huatulco www.bbaguaazul.com
Chiles&Chocolate Food Services Huatulco, México
Birdwatching Tours with Pablo Narvaez
Cooking Classes
Hands-on Oaxacan Food
Streak-Backed Oriole
Tel: 958 587 26 55 Cel.: 958 100 73 39
Santa Cruz, Huatulco www.huatulco-catering.com
pablo_rafting@yahoo.com
HAGIA SOFIA Botanical Garden
6 Hour Botanical Garden Tour; 60 varieties of exotic flowers and tropical fruits from Asia to Central America, Swim in the Magdalena River Includes: Transportation, Guide, Breakfast, Lunch 450 pesos/person Call to reserve today!
Contact us to book your day tour: Office in Santa Cruz Tel 52 958 587 0871
www.hagiasofia.mx
Tel. 58- 100 -25 Cel. 958- 58- 58-346
Temazcal & Massage 2 PAX - MASSAGE 60 min. $99.00USD (If your booking 2 days in advance)
Tangolunda, Huatulco
The Natural Choice for Fruits and Vegetables Carrizal 904, La Crucecita, Huatulco Tel. 958 587 0491 Fax. 958 587 2925 fruverhuatulco@hotmail.com
San CristĂłbal de las Casas: A Superlative City By Marcia Chaiken
San CristĂłbal de las Casas, a days drive from Huatulco in the highlands of Chiapas, is best described with superlatives: a magnificent mountain setting, a charming, extremely clean historic center, a musical delight and a city full of excellent international restaurants. There is so much to do and see, both in the city and the surrounding area that a minimum of three days is needed to just scratch the surface. Visitors who have even the slightest appreciation for indigenous cultures - either modern or pre-conquest, will find that San Cristobal intensifies that interest. A tour of Na Balom ("house of the tiger" in one of the 33 indigenous dialects) provides an amazing presentation of the biographies of photo-journalist Gertrude Duby Blom and her archeologist husband Frans Blom. The house and collection provide the backdrop for understanding Frans' passion for unearthing Mayan cities such as Palenque and Trudy's even greater passion for preserving the culture of the jungle-dwelling Lacondona people. Also worth experiencing is the multisensory presentation Mayan Rojo, in the very old and beautiful San Cristobal theater. It brings the carvings on the walls of major archeological sites in Chiapas to life. The production is in one of the Mayan dialects, and the tickets come along with a description of the show in about eight different languages. Nonstop exceptional choreography, music, incense, fantastical colorful costumes, chanting and singing recreate the scenes that appear to be mythical in the excavated site of Palenque but are actually part of the history of the area. Not to be missed is the fascinating collection of tribal clothing, masks, and other accoutrements given to Sergio Castro Martinez by numerous grateful tribes as thanks to him for the free health and social services he has provided for decades. The collection is open to visitors in the late afternoon and early evenings when his free health clinic is open and frequently staffed by volunteer physicians. When he is free to do so, Sergio provides explanations of the displays based on his long-term personal interactions with the tribes. Access to the collection and the tour are free, but visitors' donations help support the free clinic and other needed services to impoverished tribes.
A visit to the jade museum provides insights into how the different pre-conquest communities used the same precious materials. At the amber museum, one can learn how to tell the difference between amber and plastic imitations – a useful skill to have when shopping in the many jewelry stores in the city A relatively short distance outside of the city experience tribal religious practices at the church of San Juan Chamula. Nominally Catholic, the rites differ dramatically from virtually any other church in North America. Congregants in traditional dress sit together in small groups in the huge, dark church on the hay-covered marble floor. They sweep away hay to clear spaces and light multiple tapers that they affix to the floor with wax. Chanting in tribal dialects, presenting roosters or eggs and drinking carbonated drinks are common rituals. The atmosphere is fervent and ultra-serious. Even the youngest babies and toddlers are so quiet that only the chanting can be heard. A bit further from the city, the small village of Amatenango del Valle provides a chance to learn about traditional methods for making pots. The women create designs that are wonderfully whimsical, and often brightly colored. Hundreds of pottery hens, peacocks and pigeons, ranging from tiny easily transportable creations to super-size statuary, are made in the workshops in addition to simpler unpainted creations. Most of the artisans are happy to display their working skills, but they tend to speak little Spanish and may resist having photos taken. In addition to learning about indigenous cultures, San Cristobal also caters to many other interests. Music-lovers will find some of the best marimba music in the world being played at night in the central square and in restaurants. Classical, jazz and other concerts are often sponsored by the city, and listening opportunities can be found in the MiniGuia published by the city's Department of Culture and Tourism. Aficionados of botany should not miss the gorgeous experimental garden of epiphytes inside the Carmen Cultural Center in the historic area of the city. Outside the city, the hiking trail of the Huitepec eco-preserve winds its Continued next page...
Spay/Neuter Clinics in the Huatulco Area By Liz Healey
A
nyone who knows Heidi Wagner, resident of Bahia de Salchi, Cuatunalco, and Calgary, Alberta, Canada, knows how much she loves animals. She took this passion to a new height last May when she held a fund-raiser in Calgary to provide spay/neuter clinics in Mexico. The event was held at a pub (The Rose and Crown), owned by Salchi resident, Larry Davis, and raised enough money so that 2 - four day free clinics will be held in December. The clinics will be run by Peace Mexico, a team of veterinarians from Puerto Vallarta who have been doing mobile spay and neuter clinics throughout Mexico since 2003. Jane Bauer, Sherry Mcleod de Castrillon and local veterinarian, Alejandro, have been helping to set up the first of the clinics to be held in Zimatan, December 7 through 10. The clinics will be held at the Municipio in Zimatan, from 8:00 AM to 5:00 PM, and the hope is to spay/neuter 20-25 animals (dogs/cats) each day from both Zimatan and surrounding communities.
The second clinic will be held at the Municipio in Cuatunalco, December 14 through 17. The ladies from the local community are providing lunch, and Ana Ramirez, from the Manta Raya hotel in Salchi, is doing breakfast and dinner. We hope to have enough volunteers from the local community, though we will have more information in the December issue. If these clinics prove to be successful, Heidi hopes to do more in the coming years, for a number of reasons, some shown in the following stats -
Volunteers (7-10 people) are needed each day at the clinic to help with care for the animals before and after surgery. The vet team and volunteers will need lunch each of the 4 days, and the vet team will need breakfasts and dinners. If anyone is willing to volunteer, donate or has other inquires, please contact Heidi at heidi@gary-campbell.com . If anyone is willing to help with meals, please contact Jane at huatulcoeye@yahoo.com .
Continued from previous page... way up a dormant volcano covered with a cloud forest composed of multiple varieties of oaks and Mesoamerican plants that are largely extinct outside the preserve. Signs display methods of harvesting lumber without killing trees. Movie buffs should check out Foro Cultural Kinoki Independiente, where avant-garde films are shown in small salas with couches and directors chairs with foot rests. About 40 different types of teas can be ordered and served during the shows, as well as cafe dishes from around the world. One perennially favorite is a documentary on the Zapatista rebellion...often followed by a discussion. Both the film and the discussion leaders present the Zapatista point of view. Even though the presentations tend to be one-sided, they are very thought-provoking. San Cristobal is also a shoppers' mecca. The large indoor and outdoor markets offer thousands of unusual products of artists and artisans. Vehicle-free pedestrian streets and narrow streets with heavy traffic are lined with clothes stores, shoe stores and jewelry shops. And government sponsored stores sell crafts from outlying villages. Finally, San Cristobal is a gourmand's dream come true. From real Italian pizza to haute cuisine, restaurants cater to all tastes. Argentine steak to vegetarian dinners can be found by just wandering around the city center. It's hard to find a bad restaurant. It's harder yet to decide which of the many good places to select for a meal Fortunately, those of us lucky enough to live on the Oaxacan Riviera know that the best untried restaurants will still be there when we return.
Dr. Marcia Chaiken lives in Huatulco and Ashland, Oregon.
One un-spayed female dog/cat, over the course of 6 years, together with her offspring and their offspring, etc., have the potential to produce in: 1 year: 16 Dogs, 12 Cats 3 years: 512 Dogs, 376 Cats 5 years: 12,288 Dogs, 11,801 Cats 6 years: 67,000 Dogs, 66,088 Cats
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By Frances Lopez
Beaches HUATULCO MAGUEY OAXACA TANGOLUNDA CONEJOS TEJONCITO CACALUTA SANTA CRUZ ENTREGA VIOLIN
www.el-alquimista.com Restaurant & Cabanas Zipolite, Oaxaca
Oaxaca Accommodations: Downtown, Suburbs or Village? By Alvin Starkman, M.A., J.D.
T
eens, backpackers and tourists with only two or three days to spend visiting Oaxaca tend to prefer staying downtown close to the zócalo. After all, walking from a hotel or bed and breakfast to downtown sights is easy, and lodgings are in close proximity to the best restaurants and museums. However, staying in the suburbs or nearby towns and villages does have a distinct advantages over downtown Oaxaca. The Good, The Bad and The Ugly Proximity to almost everything in the centro histórico is the major advantage of staying at a hotel or b&b in downtown Oaxaca. You can go out in the morning, have lunch and then go back to the hotel for a snooze before dinner. Taxis are unnecessary to get to and from any major downtown attraction and you're in the middle of a quaint, colonial Mexican city. But there are also some down sides to lodging in the heart of downtown Oaxaca. Downtown is plagued with bus traffic and horn honking. Many hotel rooms are perfectly quiet, though, especially in the older hotels with thick walls. A room back from the street is preferred, regardless of accommodation type. Without enforcement of emissions regulations; car, truck and bus exhaust fumes are always problematic. Also Oaxaca's downtown core is closed in with buildings and is at a lower altitude than the suburbs so it tends to feel hotter. Traffic is stop-and-go virtually every weekday daylight hour. Many businesses close for siesta from 2 – 4 pm when shopkeepers go home and it's also the time when many parents hop in the car to pick up their children from school. Accordingly there is more traffic during more hours. Suburban and Out-of-Town Oaxaca Accommodations Aren't Perfect Either Lodging in a Oaxacan suburb or neighborhood such as Reforma, Loma Linda, San Felipe or Guadalupe Victoria, or out-of-town in Huayapam, Tlalixtac, Etla or Teotitlan del Valle, similarly has pluses and minuses. The major downsides of accommodations outside Oaxaca's city center are: The types of sounds and noises you hear while staying outside of downtown Oaxaca are different. There are dogs, roosters and donkeys; and every type of goods and services vendor with car top loud speakers blaring messages and jingles as well as honking horns; hawking tortillas, propane, fruit, buns and pastries, water and more. If staying near a valley, sounds echo, particularly disturbing when fireworks go off or there are late night parties. Tourists generally must take a bus or taxi, or walk to get back to the hotel or b&b at the end of the day. However, many lodgings offer rides downtown or shuttle bus service, which reduces the inconvenience. While there are grocery stores and restaurants in the outlying areas, the selection is not that great. But there are in fact numerous small convenience stores and night-time taco stands serving delectable full meals and snacks. As well, there are some good restaurants outside of the downtown.
Lodging Outside of Oaxaca City But for many, in particular more seasoned travelers, those with the luxury of being able to have an extended visit to Oaxaca, or vacationers who want a more laid-back experience, suburban and village accommodations hold a definite allure. Suburban accommodations often have walking, hiking and nature trails nearby, rarely found downtown. The air is cleaner and fresher and it's often cooler. The size of individual rental units tends to be considerably larger than in a downtown hotel or b&b, and grounds are usually larger with more green space. One actually feels part of a Mexican neighborhood, rather than a tourist amidst throngs of other tourists and the plethora of merchants marketing their products or services along every downtown street. Suburban accommodations provide a bit of both worlds, lodging in a real Mexican setting away from all the hubbub, yet only a short drive from all the action. Choose Carefully, But Rest Assured: Urban, Suburban or Rural, It's Hard to Go Wrong Vacationing in Oaxaca Due diligence is the key. As long as the visitor to Oaxaca does a bit of homework and asks prospective lodging hosts the right questions before committing, the decision becomes easy and there will be no regrets regarding lodging in downtown Oaxaca or one of its suburbs or neighbouring towns.
Alvin Starkman operates Casa Machaya Oaxaca Bed & Breakfast (www.oaxacadream.com) with wife Arlene. Alvin is a contributing writer for Mexico Today.
Craft villages, market towns, colonial architecture and renowned cuisine. Oaxaca City is a 35 minute flight or a scenic 6 hour drive from Huatulco.
Competitive Prices Quality Accommodations Breakfast always included Personalized Service and Advice
Present this flyer for a 10% discount off your stay. Some restrictions apply.
Dental
Services Directory Tours Optometrist
Vet
Optica Selecta
Dr. Edith Gonzalez Orthodontist,laser x-ray teeth cleaning children and adults La Crucecita, Huatulco Tel. 958 589 3155 Cel. 958 589 4645
Jet ski tours
Adolfo Suarez Navarro
Visit the bays and beaches of Huatulco driving your own jet ski. Guided tours and rentals.
Eye Exams, Glasses, Sunglasses, Repairs
Gardenia 1504 La Crucecita, Huatulco Tel. 958 587 0888 Cel. 958 101 1615
Cel.044 958 1002806 Tel. 587 2818
Sabali 45, La Crucecita Tel. 958 583 4014
www.huatulcowatersports.com
Esthetics
Live Nails
Plaza Madero La Crucecita Huatulco Manicure, Pedicure
Acrylic Nails/Toenails- 150 pesos Acrylic Nails- Feet &Hands Whole Body Wax- 250 pesos Plaza Oaxaca # 19, La Crucecita Relaxing Massage- 200 pesos Tel. 958 587 0293 958 585 0047
Automotive Tire Shop Calle Artesanos Mz. 3 Sector V, Huatulco Tel 958 583 4035 Cel. 958 100 3393
Manicure, Pedicure 958 100 9998
Gardenia 501, La Crucecita 958 587 2132 www.loramagrafi.com
Private Classes Computer Maintenance/Repair. Ink Cartridges, Modems, Cables
Tel 958 583 4958 Cel 958 100 4000
Cel.958 589 3362
Cristales & Aluminio Huatulco Sell and Rent Lumber Aluminum doors, windows, For Construction Screens, repairs, glass Located across
Madcim Lumber
from Construrama, Huatulco
Palma Real/ Jazmin St 958 587 0825
Boat for Sale Marina Chahue chilepecan@yahoo.com
Mention this ad for a free margarita! *one per person
janemexico1@yahoo.ca
Todo Contra Incendios
Upholstery, seat covers, Automatic Doors carpets, shades, Car/Home Alarms Maintenance & Fumigation curtains, boat interiors. Tel. 958 587 2010 Tel. 958 587 1827 Colorin 307, La Crucecita, Cel. 958 106 7706 Cel. 958 585 0466 Tel/Fax 958 587 1505 aycealarmas@hotmail.com splash_mfc@yahoo.com.mx
Tel. 958 105 1606 Cel. 958 107 1460
Individual or Groups
Flamboyan #207, La Crucecita
Home Maintenance Decoratec
Jose Antonio Appliances A/C Repair Electric Plumbing
Yoga
Computers/ Design Graphic design Offset, Plotter, Awnings, Signs, Publicity materials
Cel. 958 587 8244 Tel. 958 587 1127 Huatulco, Oaxaca
Plaza Madero, La Crucecita
Your Safety is our Goal Smoke Alarms, Extinguishers, Sale and Maintenance
Tel. 958 583 4720 Cel. 958 111 1970 Light fixtures & fans, lighting design & estimates Authorized Distribudor
Gardenia & Chachah La Crucecita, Huatulco Tel. 958 587 1150 Cel. 958 587 5176
Thank you to our Advertisers who make publishing the Huatulco Eye possible. If you read about them here, mention it when you use their services.
Car Fever... By Alfredo Patino Photos By Luca Tognazzi
For me there is almost nothing as exciting as the sweet smell of gasoline mixed with the powerful roaring of a classc car, it makes the hair on the back my neck stand up and sends a welcome chill down my spine. So this past month men and women that share a love for classic cars, speed and fun, got together at the Pan Am Road Race in Huatulco, Oaxaca. For a few days we all got to enjoy seeing the prep for this amazing race. It was a pleasure to see famillies and children from local schools coming to Chahue to view the car that came from all over the globe to compete. We hope that next year Huatulco will be chosen again as the starting point. The local radio station 103.1 had a special broadcast from the Chahue Park giving this event it’s much deserved due.
Huatulco Eye Real Estate Listings Sponsored By Remax Huatulco www.RemaxHuatulco.com www.HuatulcoRemax.com Tel.958 587 0136
For Rent:On the Zimatan River. 25 min. from Huatulco- 5 min from surf spot Barra de la Cruz. 2 bdr. 2 bth. Weekly or monthly rentals. www.theriverhouse-huatulco.com
Ocean View Rentals in Sta. Cruz Long term- 2bdrms. 2 bths, appliances$12,000 pesos/ mth. Short term- fully furnished, priced individually Tel. (958) 587 0333 contact@huatulcorealestate.com
Beachfront Home For SalePunta Santa Cruz.3 bdrms, 4 bths., a/c, stainless steel kitchen, access to beach, fully furnished
.Info: 958 587 2506, casavolare@hotmail.com http://web.me.com/swanfun/Site/casa_volare.html
For Sale: Ocean View Lot
Rooms For Rent-
Ocean View, B&B in Conejos For Sale: Brand new 2 bdr. apt. in Marina Park Plaza!Great Huatulco. Weekly rentals. location! Must see! For more www.bbaguaazul.com info.958 109 3154 (011 52) 958 581 0265
huatulcoeye@yahoo.com
For Sale: Ocean view 3br. house in Playa Panteon, Puerto Angel. Contact: 958 109 0153 huatulcoeye@yahoo.com
For Sale Puerto Angel
Playa Aragon
HUGE Oceanfront Lot
50 x 120 meter lot with 1 bdr. house 400x 400 meters Fantastic Oceanview huatulcoeye@yahoo.com huatulcoeye@yahoo.com
Beside San Agustinillo LOT FOR SALE 35 x 35 meters Ocean view huatulcoeye@yahoo.com
Btw. Playas La Boquilla & La Mina
El Faro, Puerto Angel
Email us to list your property:
LOT FOR SALE 200x 80 meterS Oceanfront huatulcoeye@yahoo.com
huatulcoeye@yahoo.com
Cuatunalco: 1 Hectare, Sistern,1 bathroom, septic 1 km to beach, Great for building cabanas! 80,000USD
Tel. 958 100 3393 huatulcoeye@yahoo.com
Lot for Sale by Owner
Sector E, Santa Cruz Huatulco, Oaxaca 504 square meters Quaint , Residentitial Neighbourhood, Great Investment huatulcoeye@yahooo.com
All information regarding the Real Estate advertised herein has been provided by the individual party, the seller, or their agent. Huatulco Eye does NOT assume any responsibility for the validity of the information provided. Huatulco Eye is not liable for misinformation, typographical errors, errors of omission, misprints, or other errors in these advertisements. We reserve the right to revise or reject any advertisement. Huatulco Eye is not a Real Estate Broker and receives no commission upon the sale of the property Prospective buyers should contact a Real Estate agent for real estate advice and/or their lawyer for legal advice concerning the purchase of any properties advertised here.
Along the Riviera... Juri ied runs away with Huatulco title.
"Siete años de Matrimonio" starts filming in Huatulco. They will be filming at 21 different locations in the state including Huatulco, Puerto Escondido, Yanhuitlán and Oaxaca
Junior Idols!
New Interjet Offices in Plaza Chahue, Huatulco
Road Race Fever Goodyear’s Prima
November Todo Santos
Ladies Breakfast Benefit at the Naval- Huatulco International Book Info: 958 587 2456 Fair beginsOaxaca.City
Aerosmith DF
Remembrance DayUS/ Canada
Catch & Release Fishing Tournament Huatulco
Mental Training Retreat 2 days- Escobilla Beach
Live Transission of Met OperaWagner- Siegfried
Museum Admission is FREE in Mexico City
Pate de Fua Concert Camino Real Huatulco 8pm
Museum Admission is FREE in Mexico City
info: blanca_eb@hotmail.com
Día de la RevoluciónMexico Live Transission of Met OperaPhilip Glass
English AA Huatulco 7pm
Film & Food Festival Huatulco to the 27th
Thanksgiving- US
International Sailfish International Sailfish International Sailfish Tournament Tournament Tournament Puerto Escondido Puerto Escondido Puerto Escondido
English AA Huatulco 7pm
“A Great Spot To Enjoy the Evening” - Bruce Happy Hour 6-8pm Tuesday- Friday Live Music, Great Food
311 Palma Real La Crucecita
Museum Admission is FREE in Mexico City
Advertise in The Eye huatulcoeye@yahoo.com . event List your on our calendar for FREE See us online www.huatulcoeye.com
Aquatic Marathon Huatulco info:958 101 6042
Museum Admission is FREE in Mexico City
English AA Thursdays at 8pm Remax Plaza on Chahua Blvd. Start date November 17th For more info:
Randy & Kimberly Cel. 958 585 6669