October 2011

Huatulco Eye Living and Loving the Oaxacan Riviera Issue No. 9 October, 2011

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Huatulco Moment By Camille Grace Photography

I N T E R N AT I O N A L LY AC C L A I M E D C H E F P I L A R C A B R E R A Rick Bayless: “I would strongly urge anyone with an interest in Mexican food to take advantage of any opportunity to learn from and experience the Oaxacan cuisine of PilarCabrera. She is one of the greats!”

New York Times: “a great [cooking class] … led by the affable and skilled Pilar Cabrera” Food Network Canada: “one of the most delicious meals I've ever tasted”

info@casadelossabores.com Phone: (951) 516-6668

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Along the Riviera...

Coyula Soccer Team

Hanging out!

Pastor Vaqueros style!

Crepes at Mil Amores- Puerto Angel

Paco & Javier of La Providencia, Zipolite

The America and her chorus in Barra de la Cruz Ladies at the Naval Breakfast.

Diego and his catrina dolls.

Cover photo: Catrina Dolls from Diego Lira’s store located in the Parque Eco-Arqueologico Copalita.

For more information or topurchase you can drop by the store or email him diego@kgarage.com La Calavera Catrina ('The Elegant Skull') is a 1913 zinc etching by Mexican printmaker José Guadalupe Posada. The image has since become a staple of Mexican imagery, and often is incorporated into artistic manifestations of the Day of the Dead in November, such as altars and calavera costumes. The etching was part of his series of calaveras, which were humorous images of contemporary figures depicted as skeletons, which often were accompanied by a poem.

The word catrina is the feminine form of the word catrín, which means "elegant". The figure, depicted in an ornate hat fashionable at the time, is intended to show that the rich and fashionable, despite their pretensions to importance, are just as susceptible to death as anyone else. (from Wikipedia)

EDITOR`S LETTER For man, autumn is a time of harvest, of gathering together. For nature, it is a time of sowing, of scattering abroad.

- Edwin Way Teale

Craft villages, market towns, colonial architecture and renowned cuisine. Oaxaca City is a 35 minute flight or a scenic 6 hour drive from Huatulco.

There are many reasons people come to the Oaxacan Riviera, however I bet that if I were to conduct a survey, a lot of motivation could be summed up in one word- sunshine! In the tropics, seasons are often overlooked. The vocabulary of weather is fit for a kindergarten lesson; sunny, cloudy, rainy . People often ask me if I miss the seasons. While it may not be as dramatic as -40 and mountains of snow there are subtle changes in nature that mark the changing of the seasons and they are worth looking for. The huachalala tree is the first to turn a little brown, the white blossoms of the ocotillo are scattered among the green trees, the sweet aroma of cempasuchil is intoxicating and the vines of purple morning glories that begin to carpet the shoulders of the highway are a breathtaking sight. The corn is high and it is time to harvest for the winter. This month we celebrate Halloween and Day of the Dead; both are about gathering, sharing, remembering, eating and above all living.

This month: Spend some time in the cemetery remembering loved ones.

Junior Huatulco Idol- Hemingways's.

Don't miss the classic cars at the Panamerican Road Race.

Cheer at the Triathlon in Huatulco or better yet run, swim and bike!

Dress up this Halloween!

See you next month,

Jane Advertise in The Eye huatulcoeye@yahoo.com

Editor: Jane Bauer Writers: Marcia Chaiken, Julie Etra, Brooke Gazer, Carminia Magana, Carole Reedy, David Schreiber, Daniel Schugurensky, Alvin Starkman, Kathy Taylor, Doreen Woelfel Contributors: Birgit Adamofsky, Caryl Delaney, Camille McAdie Layout Manager: Johnny Gonzalez Advertising Manager: Alfredo Patino Opinions and words are those of the author and do not reflect the opinion of Huatulco Eye. To be a collaborator please send us an email huatulcoeye@yahoo.com

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Day of the Dead … a time to Celebrate Life

By Brooke Gazer

O

f all the traditions unique to Mexico, Day of the Dead is my favorite. Traditionally it is believed that on November 1 and 2 the dead are permitted to return to the land of the living and enjoy some of the earthly pleasures which they have left behind. Even those who do not believe that the dead return like to participate in this custom because it sets aside a specific time to remember and honor those loved ones who have passed on.

This ancient tradition has roots dating back 3000 years before the conquest. Originally it occurred on the ninth month of the Aztec calendar (early August). Perceiving it as barbaric and pagan, the Spaniards tried to eradicate the practice but the natives stubbornly refused to abandon it. Eventually it was merged into a Christian day of worship as All Saints day and All Souls day, became “El Dia del los Muertos” in Mexico.

In mid October items that will be used to decorate altars and the graves of the deceased begin to appear for sale.

Some of the items may be quite whimsical such as dancing skeletons, coffins and skulls made of sugar.

Wreathes, paper cut outs, crosses, and votive candles are offered in abundance. The final week of October bakeries feature bread called “pan del muerto” in various sizes, decorated with a head, a skull or a skeleton. The most striking displays, however are the enormous bundles of marigolds sold from the back of pick up trucks or stacked a meter or higher along the curbs.

Days before the celebrations, people begin to erect elaborate altars in honor of those who have passed on.

The altar consists of an arch and a table; often several boxes are added giving it a more interesting shape. The surface is covered with a cloth or “papel picado” (intricately cut out squares of tissue paper or plastic).

Both the arch and the table are adorned with marigolds and a photo of the deceased is placed prominently in the center. Several votive candles are artistically arranged along with, offerings to the deceased, whose spirit will return to inhale their essence. These would include items mentioned earlier as well as food: chocolate, mole, tobacco, mescal, beer, cola and coffee.

A glass of water is mandatory and often incense is included. The altars are usually erected at home but they may also be in a business or other public place.

The first year after a death, the family will make a more spectacular arrangement of flowers and candles to assist the deceased in finding their way back to the living.

Many of the items play a significant role in the celebration. The arch represents the passage between life and death. Candles usually burn all night long and it is believed that the light and the smell of the candle will help to guide the sprit back to their loved ones. If the candle is accidently blown out the spirit will leave. Water quenches the thirst of the spirits while incense eliminates negative energy and bad spirits.

In some parts of Mexico, all night parties are held at the gravesite. Families bring pots of mole, tortillas, beer, and mescal, holding a sort of all night picnic. In other places the gravesite is visited before the vigil begins at home where they wait for the deceased to return and inhale the essence of the offerings. Sometime between midnight and dawn the family partakes in the offering from the altar. I have been told that the flavor of these items changes after the deceased has inhaled the essence.

In Mexico marigolds have such a strong connection with Day of the Dead that it is an insult to give them at other times of year. Marigolds not only add color and beauty to the altar, they serve a very useful purpose. Especially in this climate you might imagine that a table laden with bread, chocolate and sugar would be crawling with ants.

The marigold is a natural deterrent keeping, the altar free of insects. The entire surface of the table may be covered with flowers and petals with an artistic arrangement combining the various other elements.

The inclusion of skulls in this celebration dates back to the Aztec and other Mesoamerican Civilizations. In ancient times skulls were kept as trophies and displayed during rituals. Eventually they became a symbol of both death and of rebirth. Today skulls are made out of sugar and friends exchange these as gifts so that one can symbolically “eat their own death”, like laughing at the grim reaper. A sugar skull with the deceased name would always be included on the altar.

In preparation for the holiday, graves are cleaned and often whitewashed before they are and adorned with candles, marigold flowers and offerings that would be significant to the deceased. November 1st is reserved for honoring children and infants and who are referred to as “angelitos” (little angels). A candlelight vigil begins before midnight October 31 and it is widely believed the children's spirits are allowed to spend a day with their families. November 2nd is for remembering adults and the vigil begins after dark on November1st.

In Huatulco there is a small cemetery just off the road to Playa La Entrega, right before the naval base. The first few years that we were here, I avoided visiting it believing that I might intrude on what I thought was an intimate family time. One year however, several ladies at the market encouraged me to go and see it. Convinced that I would not be intruding, I took some of our guests along and we were well rewarded. The many artistic arrangements of marigolds along with the soft glow of hundreds of votive candles created an enchanting ambiance.

Most of the families had returned to their homes by the time we arrived but one group who had remained engaged us in conversation. Before we knew it several bottles of beer had materialized and we were invited to join them in honoring their son who had been killed in an auto accident the year before. The atmosphere was far from solemn and we felt privileged to be welcomed into their family circle.

Day of the Dead is not a time of grieving or to be maudlin, rather it is an opportunity to celebrate life. It is a pity we non-Mexicans do not have a similar occasion to remember our departed loved ones.

Brooke Gazer operates a B&B in Huatulco. www.bbaguaazul.com

Corn: Life Blood of Mexico and Gift to the World

By Julie Etra

I

have been fascinated by the history of this plant starting as a graduate student at Colorado State University in Soil and Crop Science in the early 1980s. The school has one of the largest seed-storage labs in the world. The National Center for Genetic Resources Preservation is a Department of Agriculture facility that provides cold storage for seeds, graftable buds and animal semen to support diversity in farm flora and fauna. When I was there the facility had substantial preserved germ plasm of corn from a variety of sources, and for a variety of uses. One of my tasks was to assist with planting, breeding, harvesting, and processing seed for storage and preserving genetically distinct material. This was the first time I had heard of teosinte, and the farm actually had a few plants. Then, and until very recently, botanists, ethno-botanists, plant geneticists, and archeologists were unsure if or how this perennial grass-like plant evolved into the many manifestations of modern corn we see (and eat) today (minus the genetically modified products produced by Monsanto).

Also and elsewhere known as maize, the species name is derived from the Taino Word mahiz. Since the Taino were a Caribbean tribe, it is unclear how the plant was named far from its place of origin, although it dispersed north, south and east. Corn belongs to the grass family (Poaceae or Graminaeae), and is dioecious, having separate male and female flowers on the same plant. The 'silks' are the female stigma, with the male flowers (containing stamen), or tassels, on top. To control pollination in plant breeding, the silks can be pruned and then a specialized bag placed over the top so that pollen from undesirable sources do not pollinate the female. There are five recognized species in the genus: Zea diploperennis, Zea perennis, Zea luxurians, Zea nicaraguensis, and Zea mays.

The last species is further divided into four subspecies: huehuetenangensis, mexicana, parviglumis, and mays. The first three subspecies are teosintes; the last is maize, or corn, the only domesticated taxon in the genus Zea. In some areas of Mexico, teosintes are regarded by maize farmers as a noxious weed, while in a few areas farmers regard it as a beneficial companion plant, and encourage its introgression into their maize.

George W. Beadle, while a graduate student at Cornell University in the early 1930s, found that maize and teosinte had very similar chromosomes. However, the hypothesis was not verified until 2010. Outstanding research recently highlighted in the New York Times Science News confirmed Beadle's reach that the ancient origin of modern corn is teosinte, a result of the conscious process of plant breeding and farming for improved nutrition over thousands of years. Native Americans alone domesticated nine of the most important food crops in the world, including maize, which now provides about 21 percent of human nutrition across the globe. The seeds or kernels of teosinte, like many native plants, shatter and drop to the ground, while through the breeding process the kernels of modern corn remain on the ear. This characteristic is extremely important for harvesting, processing, and shipping.

The recent research places the early diversification of maize in the highlands between the states of Oaxaca and Jalisco with the oldest known archaeological maize from the highlands of Oaxaca.

Researchers led by John Doebley discovered that all maize was genetically most similar to a teosinte type from the tropical Central Balsas River Valley of southern Mexico, and estimated that domestication occurred about 9,000 years ago. The oldest tools were found in a layer of deposits that were 8,700 years old along with a domesticated species of squash. This is the earliest physical evidence of maize use obtained to date Diversification of and domestication started in the southern Mexican highlands following two paths: 1. Western and northern Mexico into the southwestern U.S. and then into the eastern U.S. and Canada, and 2. Out of the highlands to the western and southern lowlands of Mexico into Guatemala, the Caribbean Islands, the lowlands of South America, and finally the Andes Mountains.

To be continued (Part II of III). A truly amazing grass.

Amigos de la Musica: New Season Line-up.

Dear Friends, This has been an important year for Friends of Music Huatulco. We have been honored by having an international celebrity join our Organizing Committee—Horacio Franco will become our Honorary Artistic Director as of January, 2012, and we have a new Treasurer, Mrs. Laura Castillo Almanza de Moya. We hate to say goodbye to Martha Fuster, former Treasurer, who leaves Huatulco and to Valentina Prudnikov, co-founder, who has been swarmed with an academic load that does not allow her time and effort for us.. Beatriz Quintanar joins Guadalupe Pavón with Tickets, Agustín Wade returned from master's courses in Seville and takes over Production and Ximena Osegueda returns from her PhD studies at UBC to team-up with Texts and Translations. This is all voluntary community work.

All concerts will be held at Hotel Camino Real Zaashila, at 20:00 hrs. and tickets at $150 general admission will be available six weeks before the concert date at: Foto Conejo, tel. 587-0054; Residencial Chahue's Offices, tel. 587-0502; REMAX, tel. 5870136; Hotel Camino Real Zaashila, tel. 583-0300. The box office at the entrance opens at 19:00 hrs. before the concert.

To become a sponsor all we ask for is a fee of $1,000 as an annual subscription. We present all new sponsors with a Subscriber Diploma, a thank you letter for the generous donation, public recognition at the respective concert and their name appears on the Sponsor list published on all hand programs. For further information or to subscribe please contact Carminia Magaña, tel.

(958) 587-1723 or email carminia@prodigy.net.mx DON´T MISS THESE GREAT CONCERTS! You'll love them! Remember that with just your ticket you are already contributing to the continued cultural development of our community and participating as a FRIEND OF MUSIC HUATULCO. By the way, our computer crashed and we lost our contacts.

If you wish to be on the Amigos de la Musica mailing list, please e-mail us at carminia@prodigy.net.mx

2011-2012 Concerts November 12th: PATÉ DE FuÁ (jazz, tango, pasodoble, bal musset fusion) December 29th: OPERA OBSESSION (soprano, mezzo soprano and piano) January 11th: “ORISHAS” GUITAR QUARTET February 9th: HÉCTOR INFANZÓN JAZZ QUARTET “EL CITADINO” (“The City Guy”) February 25th: BAROQUE TRIO WITH HORACIO FRANCO, ASAF KOLERSTEIN AND SANTIAGO ALVAREZ (recorder flutes, cello and clavichord)

24th Annual Pan Am Race Oct. 21-27, 2011

L

a Carrera Panamericana, The Mexican Road Race (1950-1954), was one of the most famous events in auto racing history. Many of the most famous drivers in the world tested their skills driving 2000 miles across Mexico at full speed. The event was revived as a stage rally in1988 and for twenty-four years has offered both experienced racers and novices an opportunity to experience the thrills and challenges of the original Pan Am. Today it is unique in the world—racing against the clock at full speed on public highways for a week.

This year one hundred cars will line up in southern Mexico to race 1600 miles north to the beautiful city of Zacatecas. The event passes though the heart of the country, a string of impressive mountains and colorful colonial cities. The Mexican Highway Patrol, whose top officers travel with the race, clears the highways for the timed speed runs. Along the way, two million spectators will cheer the competitors along.

Each night the race rests in a different city. This year the Pan Am will start in the Pacific resort of Huatulco and stop for the night in Oaxaca, Puebla, Querétaro, Morelia, Guanajuato, Aguascalientes, and Zacatecas. These cities are at high altitude, so the weather is typically cool and clear.

The Mexican Road Race is always an adventure. Just getting a race car to the start is a challenge. The Pan Am remains a serious test of drivers and their cars, plus it’s a major cultural experience. Finishing the race after seven long days behind the wheel is another major accomplishment. Earning a spot on the podium is a huge bonus. It's a lifetime of memories.

From website: www.panamrace.com

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Chocolate Ahh chocolate. For me it was probably a Hershey bar my dad slipped me at a very young age... we all have a starter moment. In hindsight, I was doomed, but really did not get serious until a lovely woman, Alice Medrich, opened up a pastry and chocolate shop in Berkeley. She opened up her first little shop just a couple blocks from my parent's house in 1976, just down from Chez Panisse. This area of Berkeley, the “gourmet ghetto”, was a foodie neighborhood before “foodie” became a word. I still have the recipes from the classes I took with her in those days, when we were all young, and eager to taste the world.... of chocolate at least. The raspberry chocolate cream cake is still in my collection.

Which leads me to Diane Kennedy's latest book, Oaxaca al Gusto, An Infinite Gastronomy which is more than a cookbook, it is a cultural exploration.

Originally published in Spanish, by the University Metropolitana de Monterrey, it is a truly amazing discourse on Oaxacan food. The book begins with three essays, “Pillars of Oaxacan Cuisine”: Chocolate, Corn, and Chiles, each written by an expert in their respective field. Fray Eugenio Martin Torres, who works with indigenous tribes in Oaxaca, discusses the history of chocolate in Oaxaca. As he discusses, we know chocolate from before the Spanish conquest thanks to remaining Mayan glyphs/codices that were not burned by the Spanish. There are actually recipes in these codices for serving chocolate drink. It has a long tradition as a drink reserved for the noble classes in prehispanic Mexico and initially in Europe as well, to be drunk at very special occasions. In fact, as the Spanish conquered Mexico, the most important products they were draining Mexico of were: gold, silver, cochineal, and cacao. So there you go.Chocolate.XXXXXXXxXXXXXXXXXXxxxxxxxxxx

All future cacaos, in all their genetic manifestations, came from these versions, native plants to this region. Cacao today is still an integral ingredient in the cooking of Oaxaca, but not in the configuration that most of us who did not grow up in Oaxaca would recognize. It was most definitely transformed by Europeans, Conrad Van Houten of the Netherlands, in 1828 figured out how to extract the fat, making cacao butter, and leaving the defatted cacao to be ground to powder. Up until then it was used as a drink, with sugar added, much as it was used in prehispanic Mexico. But it took Rodolphe Lindt to figure out “conching”, which led to what most of us are familiar with, a smooth chocolate, in 1789.xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx.

All in all, cacao trees traveled throughout the world, but only safely nestled within the 20 north/20 south latitudes, including the Caribbean islands, the Philippines, S.E. Asia, and Africa. The beans themselves vary genetically, as they are very finicky to grow, and adapt to only certain altitudes, soils, humidity, and temperature. They are also extremely susceptible to disease. But, it is in Oaxaca, that you still can explore prehispanic cacao/chocolate drinks and dishes that have contributed the world-class cuisine of this region.xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx My first experience with raw cacao beans was in the coastal mole of Oaxaca. Recipes vary extravagantly (and every family has their own secret recipe), but a key ingredient is the cocoa bean. I was also introduced to the art of “designer” chocolate to drink. Families in Oaxaca City have for generations made their “family recipe” that carefully mixes ground cacao beans, with sugar, nuts and spices to create their signature drink. Atole, a popular beverage in Mexico, is often topped by a chocolate foam, flavored with herbs, bark, and spices.

When we head up to Pluma Hidalgo, we buy cacao beans along with our coffee beans.

I roast and grind the beans (very easy), put the ground beans in ground coffee, cookies, breads, granola and candy. They add a rich nutty flavor, a subtle chocolate hint, that lets you know there is a reason this is considered the food of the “Gods”.

For those who would like to read a definitive history of chocolate, check out Sophie D. and Michael D. Coe's book: The True History of Chocolate, and a lovely book, The New Taste of Chocolate, A Cultural and Natural History of Cacao with Recipes, by Maricel E. Presilla. But for the ultimate look at chocolate in Oaxaca, glance through a copy of Diane Kennedy's book, read the stories and recipes, and it will inspire you cooks out there to try something new or old.

When you look at the cacao trees, one is struck by how it grows. The pods grow directly from the trunk of the tree, looking improbable to those of us accustomed to seeing our apples, plums, etc. from branches. It confounded Spaniards initially as well and when they went to document it with illustrations, they placed the pods in the trees hanging from branches, like no one would notice? I hadn't really noticed the trees myself, until we were in Costa Rica recently, and every spare bit of agricultural land (even in suburban neighborhoods) had fields of cacao. Then it struck me, these were the trees I had been seeing on the road between Huatulco and Salina Cruz forever, and did not know what I was looking at. Duh. Cacao historically had been traded/distributed from the Isthmus, Tehuantepec, and the City of Oaxaca in prehispanic Mexico. The Tehuanas traveled throughout the area moving it on to other indigenous tribes, and most notoriously to the Aztecs. Oaxaca contains one of the “mother” genetic versions of cacao, thought to only have Check out my blog: www.doreeneliza-huatulcopassages.blogspot.com originated in the Amazon, Central America and Southern Mexico.

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Van lla A Love Story

By Kathy Taylor

T

he lush jungle mountains of Veracruz provide perfect growing conditions for the Vanilla planifolia with an ideal combination of sun and shade, even rainfall and dark humus-rich soil. If there is one, and only one, exquisitely perfect place on the planet to grow vanilla, it is Papantla, Veracruz, its air alive with the delicate spiciness of vanilla and the steady hum of abeja de monte, or the Melipona bee.

For centuries the Melipona played exclusive cupid to the vanilla planifolia, and to the casual observer it was not a big deal, very ordinary, just a bee and a flower. But what looked like a humdrum marriage on the outside was, in reality, a mysterious symbiotic affair. The orchid, hermaphroditic, having both male (anther) and female (stigma) organs, coyly separates its anther and stigma with a delicate membrane to prevent a little self-pleasure and subsequent self-pollination.

The vanilla planifolia is not an anytime kind of boy/girl orchid. It blooms once, for a few hours, a day at the most, uncurls its petals, puts on some cool jazz, lights a candle and waits for the little mountain bee. The Melipona seduces its way inside the waxy petals, buzzes under the membrane, and with its hairy little legs transfers pollen from boy to girl and back again, and then triumphantly buzzes its pollen blushed body back to the waiting hive. Oh, the joy. Within hours, the petals close, and the vanilla pod begins to form.

The Spanish explorer Cortes is credited with exploiting Mexico in many ways, but perhaps the one act that has the most universal effect to this day is the introduction of vanilla to Europe. The Europeans became vanilla-crazy at the same time that they became spice-crazy, and fleets were dispatched to explore the ever-rounding world in the quest for an exotic larder. To their frustration, Vanilla planifolia propagation was elusive, fecund nowhere except the mountains of Veracruz. Sure, the delicate vines plucked and sailed across the oceans and planted in foreign soil grew, even thrived, but would not, could not, produce a single pod. Why? Because the Melipona, the little mountain abeja, refused to live anywhere else. Hopeful French and Spanish botanist matchmakers proffered their trembling blooms; but no Tahitian island, no Madagascar hill could tempt the Melipona. Soy Mexicano, the little bee would proclaim, and promptly die.

Three hundred years of exclusivity followed. By chance, in the mid 1800s, a 12 year old Tahitian plantation worker, spurred perhaps by the urges of puberty, discovered the gentle art of vanilla seduction. The earth moved, or rather vanilla production moved, and Mexico and the little bee were cuckolded. Since then, anywhere in the world within the wavy belt 10 to 20 degrees either side of the equator, magic can and does happen. In Madagascar and Tahiti, and yes, Veracruz, a worker gently parts the orchid petals and lifts the membrane with a bevelled sliver of bamboo, flicks his thumb and dusts the pollen from the anther to the stigma. Although the thumb of a man has replaced the delicate touch of the little bee's hairy legs, happily no mechanical device has been invented to substitute its lover's gift.

Today, 97% of the world's vanilla does not come from Mexico. The 3% that does is considered the absolute best. Of course, first one has to eliminate the cheap imitators, the impressionists who steal flavour from pulp and paper production waste (yes, really!), from chemical labs and the tonka vine which contains coumarin, a substance similar to warfarin.

Alcohol is used in the extraction of the vanilla essence, and to be classified “pure vanilla extract or single-fold extract”, the ratio of alcohol to vanilla cannot be higher than 35%.

Vanilla is the only flavour with a U.S. FDA standard of identity in the Code of Federal Regulations. A single-fold extract must contain extractive material from 13.35 oz. of vanilla beans (at 25% moisture) per gallon. All other products are called vanilla “flavour”.

How to buy vanilla: Good vanilla pods are a thing of beauty. They should be dry, a bit wrinkly, with a slight sheen – all of this means that they have been matured on the vine, which takes about 9 months (not a surprise to bee or orchid!) In extracts, look for vanilla from Veracruz, with the above ratio guideline, and a disclaimer “does not contain coumarin”. The fewer ingredients, the better the quality.

Where to buy vanilla: This is by no means an exclusive guide, but I only know of two places in Huatulco who sell good quality vanilla extract and pods. Fortuna in Plaza Chahue carries both, as does Café Pluma on Bugambilia in Crucecita. Café Pluma carries large sizes, up to a litre, and also clear vanilla for special baking. The pods at Fortuna are consistently excellent, and they also have small “carry on” sizes, perfect for gifts.

A great vanilla recipe: No Mexican recipe boasts vanilla more than flan – a traditional creamy, vanilla-rich, caramelized sugar confection. One of the best flans I have ever tasted was made by Fancy Nancy's wonderful cook in Cuatanalco, Maria. Here is her recipe, as written by a group of ladies from Salchi who had the wonderful good fortune of a personal flan demonstration.

Maria's Flan Equipment Needed: Two saucepans, one for the flan, and one for steaming note: your caramel, or sugar, saucepan needs to fit inside a larger saucepan into which you've placed a rack and 2 inches of water. The small saucepan cannot sit on the bottom of the large one (thus the rack), and the water needs to just come up the sides a bit as the water boils.

STEP 1: CARAMEL TOPPING 1. In the small saucepan, cook 6 Tbsp. of the raw Mexican sugar – stir constantly on high heat.

2. It will turn into a brown syrup, stir the lumps out 3. Turn off the heat when it's full liquid – and stir the sugar up along the sides of the pan....scoop it around the sides of the pan as it cools, it will start to stick....you're building a little 'bowl' of liquid sugar.

STEP 2: CUSTARD In a blender: - 1 can Sweetened Condensed Milk (like Eagle Brand) - 1 can evaporated milk – 356 ml.

- 6 whole eggs - 2 glugs of good vanilla Blend for 30 seconds.

STEP 3: - Add the milk mixture to the caramel bowl – set the flan pan into the larger saucepan with the rack and the water. Bring the water to a boil on medium heat. Cover and cook for 15 to 25 min, or until a knife inserted in the centre of the flan comes out clean. It's ok to lift the lid to check.

- Take the flan off the heat and let sit for 20 minutes - Run a knife around the edges of the flan to loosen, place a plate on top of the pan, hold firmly, and turn upside down.

- You can add toasted almonds as a finishing touch.

How to use vanilla: Vanilla embodies both taste and scent. In candles, vodka, cupcakes, cologne, air fresheners, ice cream, there is one flavour that reigns supreme. Vanilla. It is slightly sweet, with earthy top notes and an exotic spiciness that draws secrets from other flavours and enhances their essence until they are fully developed; or heavily Provecho! loaded into ingredients until vanilla swarms the senses with aroma and mouth feel and heady specks throughout. Split a vanilla bean lengthwise, not all the way through, and with the tip of a sharp knife scrape the seeds into your ingredients. Or, say for crème Kathy Taylor is a freelance writer who arrived in Huatulco in 2007 by brulee, infuse the cream with a vanilla pod while it heats, then remove the pod and sailboat. Her passions are food, sailing and Mexico. She writes about life scrape the seeds back into the cream, and add a big spoonful of good vanilla extract for in Huatulco on her blog www.lavidahuatulco.blogspot.com good measure. This double whammy is the definition of true “French vanilla”, a term used to describe a big rich vanilla flavour, not a particular variety of the extract.

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Love and Illusion: Mexico's Bullfights

By Carole Reedy

“Bullfighting is the only art in which the artist is in danger of death and in which the degree of brilliance in the performance is left to the fighter's honor.”

Ernest Hemingway The Fiesta Brava is best understood in the words of Mexican aficionados (fans): It is a bravura combined with almost homosexual drama and antics, the ritual clothing, the religious exaggeration, the beautiful passes and the excitement of a perfect kill. It must be very hard for people who are not used to it or were not brought up to think it is a great event.-Mimi

I was passionate about the fiesta brava , but lately less so.

When the matador succeeds with elegant, close passes in slow motion, it is an incomparable spectacle. Nevertheless, each day it becomes harder to see a corrida without feeling compassion for the bull, especially when the 'supposed' matador fails in the kill.

Perhaps the solution would be

corridas without blood, like in Portugal, where they don't injure or kill the bull. -Fernando

Real appreciation of the Fiesta Brava comes from recognizing the skill, daring, and courage of the fighters who put their lives in danger each time they face the bull and to see how they control the bull merely with a cape and a bend of the body.- Enrique Photo By Shauna Reedy

C

an you hear them? The first olés! of the 2011-

meant to become food for humans, are slaughtered at a

2012 season of the Fiesta Brava, one of many

much younger age). Bred especially for the fiesta brava,

Spanish phrases meaning bullfight, ring out on

these bulls possess the exceptional qualities of bravery,

November 6 and echo through the Plaza until March.

nobility, fierceness, and power. Understand the bull

An integral part of Méxican and Spanish culture, the

never makes a mistake--he can only be deceived by the

bullfighting tradition has piqued the interest of many a

slightly built matadors, strong and quick. They've spent

visitor. Perhaps you've always wondered what you'd see if

their youth in training, practicing for the day they will

you attended.

face the brave bulls, risking their lives for the love and

Step back in time and place to experience a spectacular

illusion of their art.

without precedence.

A trumpet sounds at 4 pm sharp, the wooden doors in the

Arrive at the Plaza early to enjoy the anticipation of the

callejon open, and you catch your first glimpse of the

crowd and the enticing smells of tacos, barbacoa, and

matadors and their cuadrilla (the matador's team of

other meats being grilled by the many food vendors

picadors, banderilleros, and assistants). They cross the

gathered outside.

Buy a souvenir cushion—you'll be

sitting for three hours.

Other vendors hawk DVDs,

ring and salute the judge, seated high in the venue. The judge makes all of the decisions for the day, including

magazines, books, and photos of matadors. Browse their

what awards each matador receives at the end of his

offerings before buying your ticket at the taquilla.

confrontation.

Perhaps, like mine, your heart will skip a beat as you

The afternoon is highly structured and full of ceremony.

enter the Plaza.

At times you might feel as if you've left the 21st century

It takes but a minute to adjust to the heat and sparkle of

and been transported to a time in the distant past. Each

the sun hitting your face after you exit the dark, damp

matador is dressed in his suit of lights (traje de luces),

tunnel and enter the bullring. This may remind you of

elegant in black slippers, pink socks, tie, and jacket and

your first visit as a child to a major league baseball park.

pants adorned in gold lace.

But instead of grass there is sand, in place of a dugout

Just as you entered the Plaza through the dark tunnel,

there is an alleyway (called a callejon) around the ring.

so the bull enters the ring, though through a different

This is where the matadors (matador literally means

tunnel reserved solely for these magnificent animals.

'killer'), their agents, assistants, doctors, bull ranch

The lidia del toro (the actuation of the bull and

owners, and the press observe and assist the three

matador) is divided into three parts:

matadors who for the next three hours will face six brave

First, the matador uses a large pink cape known as the

bulls.

capote, and the picador (on a horse) lances the bull. This

Six bulls, three matadors. Each matador goes up against

provocation causes the bull to bleed a bit, which prevents

two bulls, performing his magnificent capework before

congestion and causes the bull to charge better.

the kill, the most senior matador performing first.

Next comes the setting of the banderillas (the decorated

You are in Plaza México, the largest bullring in the world,

'sticks'). This is an important part of the lidia as it allows

with 45,000 seats.

the matador to observe how the bull charges.

sport.

Don't be mistaken--this is not a

The odds aren't even. Consider: a 150-pound

The final, and most important, part of the day is when the

matador faces a 1,000-pound bull, both on foot, eye to

matador takes his small, red cape (the muleta) and

eye.

performs a series of unique and beautiful flowing passes

The bulls have spent the four years of their life on a large,

with the bull, a dance in its own right, often accompanied

lush ranch, well fed and cared for (their poorer cousins,

by the music of a local band. This, of course, is followed by the killing of the bull by the matador.

With one deep thrust of his sword, the matador literally throws himself over the bull's horns, sword in hand.

Ideally the sword nicks the bull's aorta causing him to die almost immediately, though unfortunately this doesn't always happen. The matador has to try again until the bull goes down. This incompetency disturbs many fans.

A good kill happens quickly, Does the bull ever live? Yes, and it's called an indulto. If both the bull and the matador are outstanding--the bull is aggressive, noble, brave, and follows the cape and the matador flourishes with a variety of passes and bravery-the bull's life is saved so he can continue breeding. The indulto is a compliment to the bull, matador, and bull breeder.

Today, in the 21st century, controversy continues as to the value of the bullfight. As you might guess, each side has its own opinions. Those of us who treasure the tradition don't feel the bulls suffer any more than animals killed for meat, leather shoes, or purses. There are some efforts in the bullfighting world to encourage bloodless bullfights in which the bull is neither injured nor killed. ''Opera stars Cecilia Bartoli and Juan Diego Flórez believe that the opera is like a bull: haughty in the world, although surrounded by danger. In fact, both believe it is that fine line that separates in this world success from failure. It is that solitude—of the singer performing before an incredibly demanding and passionate audience—that makes it perfectly comparable to the Fiesta Brava. In both rites, the public pays to capture essential and sublime experiences at the same time.'' --quote by Jesus Ruiz Manilla (via El Pais) Note: If you're interested in understanding more about the Fiesta Brava, read Hemingway's “Death in the Afternoon,” the best account of the art written in English.

Carole Reedy has been an aficionada de los toros for 35 years. She's glad to answer any of your questions. Write her at carole_reedy(at)yahoo.com

Cultural Bridges

By Marcia Chaiken and Jan Chaiken

T

hose of us who migrate seasonally between Mexico and the US often become part of a close-knit community in our Mexican communities. Leaving can involve a cultural dislocation in both directions. But those of us fortunate enough to live a US city with a sister city or a twin town in Mexico can find the transition eased by our cultural bridge.

Fostered by Sister Cities International (SCI), sister cities and twin towns involve building strong ongoing relationships and understanding between residents, organizations and local governments in the US and communities around the world.

Originally founded in 1956 as an initiative proposed by President Dwight D. Eisenhower as a way of reducing world conflict, over 1,000 cities and towns located in all 50 US states and DC and Puerto Rico participate in the program. These cities and towns are paired with others in over 100 countries. In Mexico, about 60 cities and towns are SCI members who have formed an alliance with cities and towns in the US. A similar umbrella organization, US Mexico Sister Cities Association (USMSCA), promotes affiliations between US and Mexico cities in order to enhance grass roots relationships between these neighboring countries. More specifically the mission of USMSCA is "... to provide a broader understanding of the history and the culture of each nation." The membership, which overlaps with Sister Cities International, currently includes cities in 8 US states. California has the most alliances, with 45 cities paired with sister cities in Mexico. Eleven member cities in Texas have sister cities in Mexico.

Arizona has 6 affiliated US/Mexico sister cities. And, in the remaining states, Arkansas, Iowa, Michigan and Oregon, one US/Mexico city pair belongs to USMSCA. Both umbrella organizations encourage cities and towns to search for and pair with foreign places of similar size and characteristics. One of the oldest and strongest alliances was formed between the cities of Mexico, DF and Los Angeles, CA in 1969. (photo attached). Frequent visitors to both cities often comment on the strong commonalities -- both negative and positive. The former obviously includes traffic jams, smog, and areas of intense poverty. The latter, wonderful city parks and museums, striking modern architecture, international restaurants with world class cuisine, and a richness of cross-cultural music, art and entertainment. The sister-city relations encourage joint problem solving and sharing and enhancing each other's cultural resources.

The authors' US home city, Ashland, Oregon, has been paired with Guanajuato in central Mexico as long as LA and DF have been sister cities. Our similarities are also remarkable. Both cities include state university campuses, are known for world-class theater, have a tourism-based economy and have well-organized festivals that attract people from neighboring cities and states. Over the 40 years since the association was formed, thousands of exchanges have occurred between university students and faculty, high-school students, and members of professional and voluntary organizations. Governmental officials often meet to share ideas. An Amigos Club in each city keeps up person-to-person interactions between residents. Streets in both cities have been named for the other city; Calle Guanajuato in Ashland is a great place to dine and find local artisans in an outdoor mercado.

The founder of this sister-city relationship, known fondly in both Ashland and Guanajuato as “Señora Chela,” was the only foreigner awarded with Guanajuato's "El Pípila de Plata," traditionally given each year to a Guanajuato citizen who has performed "friendship and service" to and for the city.

In 2004, the mayor of Guanajuato said “La Señora Chela is a fountain of constant inspiration, and a living example of giving and passion. She has directly and indirectly affected the lives of many people in Mexico and the US.” Our city ties are so strong that, when we return to Ashland from Huatulco in the late spring, we find our Mexico roots well nourished. We can find real Mexican food in addition to Tex-Mex in Ashland restaurants. Much of our gringo population takes great pride in speaking at least some Spanish. Our well-known Oregon Shakespeare Festival determinedly incorporates a strong Mexico influence in the program such as a mariachi band playing on-stage in Measure for Measure and presentation of an award-winning new play, American Night, which hilariously documented the experience of a new arrival from Mexico trying to negotiate US culture. And, rather than repeating the negative Mexico stereotypes presented by the US mass media, our friends and neighbors are truly interested in discussing our daily life in Huatulco and sharing experiences from their and our visits to Guanajuato and other Mexico cities and towns.

We do get a little home-sick for Huatulco when visitors arrive from Guanajuato. But when the Guanajuato teen “queen” and her escorts ride in Ashland's July 4th parade, we join our voices in calling, “bienvenidos.” And when the Ashland City band plays the Mexico national anthem in our city park and a thousand people stand and cheer, we take great pride that we are part of both of these wonderful sister cultures.

To read more about Sister Cities: www.sister-cities.org

Drs. Marcia and Jan Chaiken live in Ashland, Oregon and Huatulco.

They hope that a US reader of this article will propose that their city form a sister affiliation with Huatulco.

Pan American Games 2011 in Guadalajara Guadalajara will host the 16th Pan American Games October 14th -30th, with an estimated 6,000 athletes from 42 countries from the Americas participating in 36 sports ranging from boxing to sailing to track and field. The Pan Am Games represent the second largest multi-sport event after the Summer Olympics and are held every four years, the year before the Olympics. 15 out of the 26 current Summer Olympic sports will use this event as a qualifier for the 2012 Summer Olympics

in London, Great Britain, including among others handball, canoeing and modern

pentathlon.

Guadalajara has embraced its host city duties with the construction of world class facilities like its new Pan American Velodrome, Scotiabank Aquatic Centre, Telcel Tennis Complex and the Pan American Village. All of the events are being held in or nearby Guadalajara, except for the sailing, beach volleyball, and distance swimming events, which are being hosted by Puerto Vallarta.

Mexico placed 6th in the medal rankings in the last Pan American Games which were held in Brazil. The demonstration sport for this year's games is Rugby. For a full look at the games, sports and to download a pdf schedule, go to:

www.guadalajara2011.org.mx . A number of media partners will broadcast the Games: check the

Huatulco Eye blog for broadcast updates.

Submitted by Kathy Taylor, who attended the Opening Ceremonies of the 1967 Pan American Games in Winnipeg, Canada.

Chef Pilar Cabrera: At the Cutting Edge of Mexican Cuisine

By Alvin Starkman, M.A., J.D.

Chef Pilar working with students.

I

Student brimming with fresh squash blossoms.

first attended a cooking class with Chef Pilar Cabrera Arroyo four years ago at her Casa de los Sabores Cooking School. I was impressed not only with her cooking and teaching skills, but her uncanny ability to instruct at all levels of learning (novices and chefs alike), in both English and Spanish. Since then, Pilar's star has risen dramatically: more international press; travel to Canada and the US to represent Oaxacan cuisine; wholesale acceptance as a peer by the most renowned chefs in Mexico and indeed further abroad.

Although Pilar and I have become friends since I first reviewed her class, for me literary and gastronomic integrity must trump personal relationships. I had to satisfy myself that she had not stepped into the trap befalls many chefs once they attain prominence in the culinary world; complacency regarding innovation, and too much delegation of responsibility to staff. Hence last month I attended another class.

Chichilo is the mole made least often both in restaurants and homes in Oaxaca. The main chile used to make it, chilhuacle, grows only in Oaxaca, is several times as expensive as other chiles, and is often hard to find in markets. With other moles you can get away using alternate dried peppers, but not when making chichilo.

So when Pilar called me and asked if I'd be interested in learning how to make the phantom mole, I jumped at the opportunity. I didn't know the half of the treat that was in store for me – and for the other six aficionados of Mexican food.

Pilar provided brief, anecdotal lessons in cultural history.

“Maize and zucchini have been grown together since time immemorial in Oaxaca, with squash runners climbing up corn stocks; so it is fitting that sopa de guias is made with all the parts of the zucchini plant plus a piece of corn,” she explained.

As Pilar explained each dish and the ingredients we'd be buying, her continuing passion became obvious; sopa de guias, mole chichilo with chicken, memelitas with wild mushrooms, and still more. “We're also going to make a salsa with chile de arbol for the guias; rajas of onion, lime juice and grilled chile de agua to accompany

October 2nd Remembrance

Sopa de guias, fresh, organic and light.

Photos by Alvin Starkman

the chichilo [rajas are strips of vegetables invariably including chiles, marinated ], Oaxacan cheesecake with Oaxacan chocolate and hibiscus flower; and I have some chicatanas from earlier this season so we can make a salsa for the memelitas.”

Chicatanas are a truly rare Oaxacan delicacy of the insect order. They're easily distinguished from gusanos (the larvae referred to as worms) and chapulines (grasshoppers). After the first rains of the season the chicatana emerges from the ground, much like an ant but with more of a beetle appearance. Some years you're lucky to be able to find a couple of pounds. Their season is the shortest of any foodstuff I've known, except for perhaps the oversized crawfish-like langostinos found near the banks of some freshwater Oaxaca rivers around the same time of year. Chicatanas make an exceptional salsa when combined with garlic, salt and chile de arbol.

Immediately upon arrival at the market we found wild mushrooms, then zucchini. “I want the small ones, we're making guias,” she requested of the vendor kneeling on the ground, produce neatly displayed in small piles. Then a lesson on the subtle differences between avocado leaf with an anis aroma used to make tortilla soup and tamales, and hierba de conejo for beans.

In about 40 minutes not only had we bought what we needed but learned dozens of tidbits of information about seasonal and organic production, traditional Oaxacan cookery, and the impact of 21st century change on the lives of Oaxaca's residents.

Back at the casa we put on our aprons, gathered round the island at the center of the kitchen, and began.

Pilar showed the novices how to clean dried chiles (no, you don't put them under the tap and wash or soak them) and the more advanced what part of zucchini runners to use and why. “This is why we cut the zucchini lengthwise,” she explained, then “you know you don't often find sopa de guias in a good restaurant because it's so labor intensive and should be eaten at the moment.”

And so the lesson progressed. Although we were split up into twos or threes to expedite processes, invariably one group finished first so would help out the other group

By Daniel Schugurensky

October 2, 1968, was a sad day in the history of Mexico. That day, in the Tlatelolco Massacre, hundreds of unarmed students were suddenly killed by the government in a public square. The late 1960s were marked by student protests and uprisings in many parts of the world, including the French May in Paris, the campus unrest in several U.S. universities, and the Cordobazo in Argentina.

In Mexico, student protests against the government had started on occasion of the Olympic Games, which for the first time were held in Latin America and provided a unique opportunity to bring issues of disconformity to the international stage. The two main sources of discontent were the low progress made by the political leadership in fullfilling the promises of the Mexican Revolution (1910-1920) of eliminating poverty and inequality, on the one hand, and the limited levels of democracy in the political system, on the other. Students took advantage of the international attention devoted to Mexico during the Games to express their frustration and criticize the government, as well as to demand democratic reforms and social justice.

President Diaz Ordaz was determined to stop the protests. By mid-September, the army invaded the university campus, assaulting anyone in their way, arresting students and eventually causing the resignation of Rector Barros Sierra on September 23rd. Not surprisingly, by that time students incorporated university autonomy and the freeing of political prisoners in their demands.

A week later, on October 2nd, after nine weeks of student strikes, a contingent of 15,000 students marched throughout the streets of Mexico City carrying red carnations to protest against the army's occupation of the University.

Photos By Alvin Starkman

In the end each of us had a hand in every dish. Pilar was present at all times, working with each group.

“Can you use bacon grease instead of manteca [pork fat] for the memelitas?” someone asked. “Yes, and if you can't find different mushrooms, commercial ones will do or you can use potato pieces sautéed in olive oil,” Pilar divulged.

For every ingredient which could conceivably not be sourced back home, Pilar provided alternative suggestions.

After a toast with mezcal, we sat down at an exquisitely set table. I tasted sopa de guias the way it should be, and understood what Pilar meant by eating it at the moment; fresh seasonal squash in a light broth ready for a bit of spice from our salsa de chile de arbol. Memelitas with hongos silvestres with a dollop of salsa de chicatana smoothly ground to perfection in a molcajete. Mole chichilo con pollo with braised vegetables, rajas added to taste. For dessert, what can top a textured cheesecake encircled with Oaxacan chocolate and crowned with hibiscus flower?

Pilar Cabrera continues to maintain her cutting edge.

She is as ardent as ever about Oaxacan cuisine and teaching the tools of her trade. When asked by a journalist to give one piece of advice to apprentice chefs she was about to teach at Stratford Chefs School in Canada, Pilar answered, “if you want to excel as a chef you have to enjoy what you're doing and be passionate about it.” The name Pilar Cabrera is synonymous with culinary passion; there's nothing more you could ask for in a Oaxacan cooking class.

More Info: www.casadelossabores.com

Alvin Starkman and his wife Arlene operate Casa Machaya Oaxaca Bed & Breakfast (www.casamachaya.com). Alvin leads families and couples into Oaxaca's central valleys for day trips. He can be reached at oaxacadream(at) hotmail.com

By the evening, 5,000 students and workers, many of them with their spouses and children, entered the Plaza of Three Cultures, known as Plaza de Taltelolco. That peaceful student demonstration was suddenly drowned in blood, in what was going to be remembered forever as 'La Matanza de Tlatelolco', or the Tlatelolco Massacre.

Without any warning, by sunset, the army began to fire against the unarmed Tlatelolco protestors. The killing was indiscriminate and included people who were at the plaza for reasons unrelated to the protest. Although accurate figures are still unavailable, it is estimated that more than 300 people were killed, hundreds were injured and several thousand were arrested.

Three decades later, in October 1997, an opposition-dominated Congress reopened the case and established a committee to investigate. The committee talked to 18 participants, including ex-president Luis Echeverria. In 1968, as Minister of Interior, he was directly responsible for the operation. In his statements, Echeverria admitted that the students had not been armed, and suggested that the military action had been planned in advance to destroy the leadership of the student movement. The PRI (Partido Revolucionario Institucional) held power in Mexico until the year 2000, when Vicente Fox of Partido Accion Nacional won the national elections.

The students killed in Tlatelolco in October 2, 1968 are still present in the collective memory of many Mexicans, and are remembered every year by the new generations of students.

Please take a moment this October 2nd to remember those students who have died in peaceful protest around the world; Tlatelolco- Mexico, Tiananmen SquareChina, Kent State- US, Soweto Uprising- South Africa. -Editor

October Justin Bieber in Concert- Remembrance of Mexico City Tlateolco Massacre.

Auditions Junior Huatulco IdolHemingway’s

Canadian Thanksgiving

Columbus Day- US

Movie Night 8pm Hemingway’sHuatulco

International TriathlonHuatulco

International TriathlonHuatulco

Ladies Breakfast Benefit at the Naval- Huatulco Info: 958 587 2456

Movie Night 8pm Hemingway’sHuatulco

Museum Admission is FREE in DF

Junior Huatulco IdolHemingway’s

Museum Admission is FREE in Mexico City

Mahi-mahi fishing tournamentHuatulco Info. 958 587 0081 Columbus Day- Mexico Dia de la Raza- Mexico

Panamerican games begin in Guadalajara. Junior Huatulco IdolHemingway’s

Guns n’ Roses ConcertMexico City

Panamericana Road RaceHuatulco

Movie Night 8pm Hemingway’sHuatulco

www.panamrace.com

Day of El Señor del RayoCathedral Zócalo- Oaxaca City FREE (The Church will be decorated with thousands of lilies)

Junior Huatulco IdolHemingway’s

Chayanne in concertOaxaca City

Halloween Movie Night 8pm

Junior Huatulco IdolHemingway’s Grand Finale and Halloween Disco

Hemingway’sHuatulco

Museum Admission is FREE in Mexico City

Museum Admission is FREE in Mexico City

Fall back! Daylight savings ends in Mexico.

To announce your event for FREE on our calendar email details to:

Cirque du Soleil opens- Mexico City Museum Admission is FREE in Mexico City

huatulcoeye@yahoo.com

Real Estate Listings Page coming in November....

Rentals and Sales Advertise with The Eye! Contact us for rates huatulcoeye@yahoo.com

Free Movie, Free Popcorn

Boat For Sale 2001 20 foot Scout T top center console,115hp yamaha. vulturelake@gmail.com 958 589 1656

Beachfront Home For SalePunta Santa Cruz.3 bdrms, 4 bths., a/c, stainless steel kitchen, access to beach, fully furnished

.Info: 958 587 2506, casavolare@hotmail.com.

http://web.me.com/swanfun/Site/casa_volare.html

Tuesday October 4 The Witches of Eastwick (USA 1987, English with Spanish Subtitles) Jack Nicholson, Cher, Michelle Pfeiffer, Susan Sarandon Tuesday October 11 Edward Scissorhands (USA 1990, English with Spanish Subtitles) Johnny Depp, Wynona Ryder Tuesday October 18 Bull Durham (USA 1988, English with Spanish Subtitles) Kevin Costner, Susan Sarandon Tuesday October 25 Interview with the Vampire (USA 1994, English with Spanish Subtitles)

October 8th and 9th

Vacation Rental Located on the Zimatan River.

25 min. from Huatulco, 5min to Barra de la Cruz www.theriverhouse-huatulco.com

Brand new 2 bdr. apt. in Marina Park Plaza for sale Great location! Must see! For more info.958 109 3154

New Firetruck for Huatulco

O

Happy Hour 6-8pm Tuesday- Friday

2x1

By David Schrieber

n August 22, “The Day of the Firemen” celebration was extra special with the donation of a new firetruck to Huatulco by the city of Richmond, California. All of this was made possible by the generosity of ex-pat Chris Hammond and friends. This is the fifth firetruck that Mr. Hammond and friends have arranged to be donated to the Huatulco Fire Department. This particular unit was flown into Huatulco by cargo carrier provided free of charge by the U.S. Air Force. Mr.Hammond, a native of Richmond, California, is all about community service and helping his fellow man. He has truly taken on the monumental task of getting the local fire department up to international standards so that it can provide the emergency assistance at a moments notice.