Cornell Costume & Textile Collection Auction List

Collection

Look 1

Description:

This full length silk evening dress is a handmade design and likely dates to the 1970s. The intricate pink and green tile mosaic creates an abstract swirled floral pattern and flows exquisitely with a layer of a sheer silk chiffon over silk satin. To top this dress off, the designer added a dramatic bow on the shoulder that wraps around the neckline and cascades down the back of the dress. This unique design promises to be a show stopper at any event.

Measurements: B-38, W-36, H-38

Look 2

Description:

This 1960-70s orange floral print full length gown with yellow, purple, and pink flowers reflects the kaleidoscopic hippie aesthetic of the late 1960s and early 1970s. The full length sheath dress design has two bust darts on the front and gathering on the back to create a flared shape. The design is finished with ribbon trimming at the neckline and a large flower at the low back. The dress appears to be handmade, likely using a pattern by Elle. The fabric was designed by Wamsutta Mills in Massachusetts.

Measurements: B-34, W-32, H-36, L-54.5

Look 3

Description:

This original Diane von Furstenburg wrap dress from the 1970s is completely intact including its original care label.

DVF “invented� the wrap dress in 1972, and her design remains an icon of the American Sportswear aesthetic. The geometric abstract motif in green and cream acrylic jersey speaks to the 1970s sportswear style.

Measurements: Vintage size 12, S-36, B-38, W-31, Hps-32, L-45

Look 4

Description:

This stunning pink beaded dress from 1959 has a detachable slip and features complex beadwork around the collar and body of the dress. Desgined by the brand Smart Miss, the sheath dress includes a large slit at the center back to facilitate walking and center back zipper closures. The complex floral motif travels around the body and to the back.

Measurements: B-34, W-30.5, Hps-36, L-51

Look 5

Description:

This custom Henry Poole & Co. suit dates to 1969 and is a black, wide pinstripe, single breasted, two-button suit with cuffed leg trousers. Henry Poole & Co is located on Savile Row, London and is an important tailoring company. This exclusive bespoke tailor has made suits for Winston Churchill, King George VI, King Edward VII, and many other prestigious individuals.

The suit is paired with a blue pinstriped cotton poplin shirt by Charvet, an iconic French brand founded in 1838. Charvet was the top shirtmaker choice of many renowned figures, including John F. Kennedy, Charles de Gaulle, and Yves Saint Laurent.

This particular shirt features a structured white collar and cuffs.

Measurements: Custom

Look 6

Description:

This uniform was worn by a woman in the WAVES branch of the Navy. WAVES stands for “Women Accepted for Voluntary Emergency Service,� and began durring WWII. This uniform has the characteristic rounded collar paired with a pointed lapel, a new design innovation for WWII. Women at this time were limited to non-combat duty but served in a variety of roles, including decoding military codes. This uniform was designed by couture designer Mainbocher.

Measurements: B-42, W-34, H-39

Look 7

Description:

This long navy blue Miron wool coat is paired with a sage cotton dress. Made of Miron wool, the coat is fitted with princess seams and flairs out from the waist. Side pockets are accented with decorative buttons and front closure features bound buttonholes.

The soft and elegant jersey knit dress is complete with high neckline, long sleeves, and a dropped, gathered waistline.

Measurements: B-32, W-24, H-38 for coat

B-32, W-30, H-35 for green dress

Look 8

Description:

Exquisitely subtle and smart detailing characterize this navy blue suit, which includes a jacket and acetate dress. The jacket is ropped and includes four vertically aligned buttons with a square buttonhole front closure. The navy blue is accented with a brown-purple satin collar, lapels, hemline and decorative bow. Pin-tucks on the bodice help to create a fitted, yet delicate silhouette. This ensemble was designed by Figurine and originally sold at Saks Fifth Avenue.

Measurements: B-36, W-28, H-38

Look 9

Description:

Cocktail dress with belt designed by Mardi Gras, NY. Made from a silk blend, this buttercup yellow dress features yellow cording and a lined bodice. Includes bias and straight grain-rep weaves. Dress is sleeveless with a cowl neck, pleated skirt, back zipper closure, and a rolled hem.

Measurements: B-33, W-27, H-36

Look 10

Description:

This beautiful empire waist cocktail dress includes a white lace bodice and tan silk chiffon skirt. Ruching along the waistline creates a stunning silhouette. Features a zipper and snap closure along the center back of the skirt. Designed by Lee Claire New York, founded by Irving Glaser, a label that once specialized in evening, cocktail and dinner gowns.

Measurements: B-35, W-28, 38-H

Look 11

Description:

This early 1960s two-piece cream dress shows impressive handmade craftsmanship. The dress is impeccably finished on the inside; the seams are all sheared and pinked, and the hems are faced with a hand-sewn ribbon. The over jacket of the dress has a boat neck style line, an asymmetrical back with snap closure, and is accented with a bow.

Measurements: B-35, W-30, 34-H

Look 12

Description:

This fun geometric printed mini dress is a handmade garment from a 1969 McCall’s Anne Klein dress pattern. The black, brown, and off white irregular squared print is edgy and eye catching.

The halter top has a sash that ties at the neck, as well as a sash belt that cinches at the waist. An elastic band gathers the top of the dress nicely into the waist to create a flattering silhouette.

Measurements: B-40, W-38, H-50

Look 13

Description:

Cotton blue and brown floral print dress, featuring a bow at the front bodice. Straps begin at the center front and end at the back princess lines. This garment features knife pleats in the front, unique draping, a fully lined bodice, and a corset-style closure.

Measurements: B-32, W-27, H-38

Look 14

Description:

This Petti junior sportswear ensemble is a knockoff of a Courreges design from the 1970s. The jacket and skirt are woven in a mossy green cotton called “Imported Holland Suede.� Faux suede fabrics were an important element of early 1970s design. The belt is designed to look like rope macrame, with metal clamps to cinch it together. This garment belonged to Professor Charlotte Jirousek, who was also the former Director of the CCTC. Charlotte passed away in February 2014.

Measurements: Vintage size 13/14, B-25, W-28, H-36

Look 15

Description:

This early 1900s Edwardian white cotton shirtwaist blouse is paired with burgundy Romeo Gigli silk pants from the late 1990s and an Imagnin & Co wool coat from the 1960s. The silk pants contain open front pleats, side welt pockets (front and back), and turned cuff hem for a sleek and minimalistic look. The union-made (ILGWU) coat ties this look together with burgundy, green, and tan yarns used to weave a herringbone-like pattern.

The coat’s front closure is comprised of large burgundy leather buttons, adding a fun and quirky feel.

Measurements: W-26, H-38 (high waisted) for pants

B-30 W-24 for blouse

B-39, W-40, H-42 for coat

Look 16

Description:

This 1980s ivory silk blouse by Oleg Cassini is of the utmost quality. Worn and cherished by an esteemed Vogue editor, this blouse has an all-over floral brocade motif with tie sash attached at the neckline and button closure. A pair of sleek brown highwaisted Romeo Gigli trousers from the mid-1990s have been paired with this luxurious blouse.

Measurements: W-27, H-33 (high waisted) for pants

B-49, W-46 for blouse

Look 17

Description:

This 1950s black evening gown with a cowl draped neckline and chiffon skirt is a beautiful example of 1950s eveningwear.

The front features two angled darts and box pleats set at the natural waist. The skirt is attached to the interior lining at the front but open at the back to allow for movement. The gown fastens with a center back metal zipper and has an ILGWU union label sewn into the center back seam.

Measurements: B-32, W-26, H-34, L-58

Look 18

Description:

This knee-length black crepe dress reflects the WWII era clothing restrictions instated with L-85, which mandated fabric usage and material options. Designed by Renel of Paris but made in New York, the aesthetic details reflect the sentiment of an America at war. The strong shoulder silhouette, for example, reflects the elevated status of women as they increasingly participated in the workforce. The strong silhouette is juxtaposed by delicate embroidered lace net and small center front buttons.

Measurements: B-32, W-26, H-37

Look 19

Description:

This eye-catching gold and black cocktail dress is made of silk taffeta and features short sleeves, a plunging V-back, and a petite pleated bustle. A woven gold patterned lame design accentuates the neckline and shoulder seams.

Measurements: B-36, W-28, H-38

Look 20

Description:

This elegant knee-length black dress is a wardrobe staple. A black satin ribbon bow belt accent the waistline and the ribbon trim at the neckline adds a chic touch. While the designer of this dress is unknown, the small embellishments, fabric selection, and finishing details exhibit wonderful craftsmanship and add sophistication to the look.

Measurements: B-34, W-28, H-40

Look 21

Description:

This 1930s cream shirtwaist dress with calligraphy-like embroidery is a beautiful example of a 1930s day dress. Smocked details above and below the waist accomodate the bust and hips. The design is simple, well-made, and elegant. The waist cinches with a fabric belt, and shoulderpads accentuate a strong silhouette. The red machine embroidered calligraphy is an elegant addition to this classic shirt waist dress.

Measurements: B-34, W-25, H-36

Look 22

Description:

This black, floor-length 1930s gown features elegant embroidered, eyelet details and is completed by a cropped jacket. The slip is made of black acetate satin, covered by a sheer, loosely woven mousseline de soie. The dress features spaghetti straps, ruching on the bodice near the neckline, and delicate cream lace detailing.

The matching jacket is made of the same sheer, loosely-woven mousseline de soie and cream lace.

Measurements: B-33, W-28, H-38

Look 23

Description:

A classic black woven skirt by Yves Saint Laurent is a symbol of the 1990s-minimalistic look but remains a timeless item to this day.

A donation from a prominent Vogue editor, this knee-length skirt features a trouser top closure and deep front pockets. The skirt is in a rayon/cotton blend, is fully lined, and has been paired with a grey jersey-knit top.

Measurements: W-27, H-37

Look 24

Description:

This black knit pencil skirt by Chanel provides minimalistic elegance and is indicative of the iconic streamlined style of the 1990s. The skirt contains a gold zipper along the center back with a Chanel CC logo on the zipper pull. The skirt hits just below the knee and is made of 100% wool. The skirt is paired with a 1970s white crepe knit leotard, which adds a playful flair. The bodysuit features a V-neck with jabot ruffles down the front, long slim sleeves with flounced cuffs, snap closures at the crotch of the leotard, and a back zipper closure.

Measurements: W-27, H-34 for skirt

B-34, W-34, H-36 for bodysuit

Look 25

Description:

This black silk skirt by Donna Karan exhibits exquisite tailoring and fun accents emblematic of the late 1980s. The skirt features a large bow at the center front, two front pockets, pleating down the front and along the pockets, and a trouser-style closure at the waist. The skirt hits at the knee and is fully lined. Skirt is combined with a naturally-dyed nylon/spandex blend tank top, dyed using Hopi sunflower seeds from Cornell’s natural dye garden and onion skins.

Measurements: W-26, H-36 for skirt

B-28.5 W-27.5 for top

Look 26

Description:

This printed ensemble is an Oleg Cassini sample and encapsulates 1970s style. The outfit features a matching knit shirt, knit midi skirt, and woven belt in a multicolored geometric print. The shirt has a square neckline and short sleeves, and the midi skirt has an elastic waistband and tie.

Measurements: B-36, W-30, H-40

Belt -43

Look 27

Description:

This 1970s gold jersey three-piece knit ensemble by Oleg Cassini includes a top, pants and skirt. The set also comes with a matching gold knit and tan leather belt. The top is long and loose fitting with a cowl neck, long sleeves, and gold braided trim. The skirt hits right below the knee and contains box pleats at the waistband and pockets with gold braided trim. The trousers feature box pleats at the waistband, pockets with gold braided trim, and tapered legs.

Measurements: Top- B-48, W-46, H-46 Skirt + Pants W-27, H-45

Look 28

Description:

This Oleg Cassini original sample from the 1970s is part of his collection of breezy casual wear created from cotton jersey.

This striped sleeveless knit dress features a multicolored geometric pattern, elastic waist with patterned woven tie belt, white collar, with front button closure and hits right below the knee.

Measurements: B-38, W3-34 (stretched), H-42

Look 29

Description:

This elegant Oleg Cassini green knit maxi dress from the 1970s is affixed with unique details that make the simple design feel special.

These details include long sleeves gathered at the shoulders with tie bows and cranberry piping along the neckline and sleeve cuffs.

Measurements: B-47, W-49, H-51

Look 30

Description:

This Geoffrey Beene evening mini dress epitomizes the 1990s slip dress style. The dress is predominantly jersey-knit black wool, accented with dotted lace over a nude silk insert along the right side. Also featured is an asymmetrical back and handmade lace embroidered flowers.

Measurements: B-34, W-26.5, H-36

Look 31

Description:

This mid-1980s Arnold Scaasi cocktail dress is from his boutique line and features dramatic puffed sleeves that taper at the wrist with a zipper cuff. This design embodies the fun, experimental, and bold nature of the time. The sleeves broaden the shoulders, while the plunging v-neckline creates a graceful silhouette. The wrap dress is made from a black chiffon with golden lurex thread woven into it to a stunning floral pattern.

Measurements: B-30, W-24, H-36