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.1 s no zIne ’ a I Ind Maga l r av e

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December 2017 • `100

Year-End

Holidays Rediscovering Goa

Just Back

Pushkar

Amazing Andamans Kerala: God's Own Outdoors EvElyn Sharma

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Stok kangri

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araku

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PalacES of odiSha

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volume 17 issue 12

Contents december 2017

andamans

by Sumeet Keswani

goa

by Manek S. Kohli

Kerala

by Anshika Nagar KRISHNA ANGIRA

32 48 80

year-end special

Trekking up to Saddle Peak in Diglipur, Andamans

Contents editor amit dixit assistant editor sumeet keswani correspondent manek s. kohli deputy photo editor shruti singh senior photographer Puneet k. Paliwal assistant art director asha rajPut designer gulshan sharma dtp operator kuldeeP kalia outlooktraveller.com managing editor sharmistha chaudhuri features writers Precious kamei, snigdha sharma contributing writer uttara gangoPadhyay

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librarian alka guPta BUSINESS OFFICE chief eXecutive officer indranil roy advertisements vice presidents meenakshi akash, sameer chhaBra senior general manager kaBir khattar (corporate) general manager nitin kumar manager Bharat chawla brand & marketing shrutika dewan

118 134

digital team amit mishra circulation national head anindya Banerjee asst. general managers g. ramesh (south) vinod kumar (north) zonal sales manager arun kumar jha (east) manager shekhar suvarna ProDuction general manager shashank dixit chief manager shekhar kumar Pandey manager sudha sharma deputy manager ganesh sah assistant manager gaurav shrivas

Features

accountS asst. general manager diwan singh Bisht company secretary & law officer ankit mangal

118 delhi restaurants

HEAD OFFICE aB-10, s.j. enclave, new delhi 110029 tel: 33505500; Fax: 26191420 customer care helpline: 011-33505533, 33505500 e-mail: outlook@outlookindia.com For subscription helpline: yourhelpline@outlookindia.com other officeS mumbai tel: 33545000; Fax: 33545100 kolkata tel: 46004506; Fax: 46004506 CHENNai tel: 42615224, 42615225 Fax: 42615095 bENgaluru tel: 45236100; Fax: 45236105 Printed and published by indranil roy on behalf of outlook Publishing (india) Private limited. editor: amit dixit.

Printed at international Print-o-Pac limited, c4-c11, Phase ii noida & published from aB-10 safdarjung enclave, new delhi 110029. released on 01-12-2017 total no. of pages 152 + covers

90 odisha

by Anurag Mallick & Priya Ganapathy

142 durga puja

by Sharmistha Chaudhuri Portal to Africa

100 araku

page 146

by Garima Pura gearbox 22

124 pushkar

by Bhanu Devgan

134 stok kangri

by Sankar Sridhar

.1 E S NO IND IA’MA GA ZIN TRA VEL

www.outlooktraveller.com

December 2017 • `100

Regulars

Year-End

Holidays Rediscovering Goa

JUST BACK

Pushkar

Amazing Andamans Kerala: God's Own Outdoors EVELYN SHARMA

n

STOK KANGRI

n

ARAKU

n

PALACES OF ODISHA

8 904150 800003

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Cover photograph: GETTY IMAGES

8 letters 10 insider 12 ask marco 14 nsew 24 hotels 146 Back oF the Book

letters NO .1 NE A’S IN DI MA GA ZI EL TR AV

letter of the month

November 2017 • `100

THE

BEACH ISSUE

Thailand

Rio Odisha Fiji Maldives

SOMEWHERE ELSE?

Madrid

INTRODUCING

Bahrain

8 904150 800003

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KATE MOSS

n

AKIRA BACK

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DURGA PUJA

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it did not interfere with the diet of a butterfly. The dancing deer of Manipur and the jumping dolphins of Goa are still in sync with nature. Neither the eyesight of Nagaland’s Amur falcon has gone weak nor has Malabar’s gliding frog lost its swiftness. All I wish to say is that we need to learn from our wildlife if we’d like to preserve our civilised life.

On one evening in May 2017, I was going through my Outlook Traveller collection, which exists since the first issue, and picked the Feb ‘05 issue for planning my June travel holiday to Northeast India. The information regarding Meghalaya and Assam helped me plan the holiday and I carried the issue during the entire trip. Really, OT is not only a magazine, but a life-long travel companion. My collection continues, and motivates me to plan my holidays well. My best wishes to the team. pradeep kothari, udaipur

www.outlooktraveller.com

m

B. ajit, new delhi

COCO SHAMBHALA, SINDHUDURG

m OT’s wildlife special issue (Oct ‘17), especially the features ‘A Walk on the Wild Side’ and ‘Wild Tales of the Kuruba’, bring a reader closer to nature, which otherwise isn’t possible for most people living in metros and other big cities and towns. Slowly, the population of animals, especially wild ones, is declining because of human beings killing them for monetary gains. Since a visit to wildlife sanctuaries of the world is not practical for most citizens due to time constraints and economic reasons, such features in OT are welcome and much appreciated.

Thanks to the team for such

m I recently got hold of the October

beautiful and lively coverage! mahesh kapasi, new delhi OT’s Oct ‘17 issue was amazing.

The story on Chandigarh was an excellent write up. Definitely, the city beautiful has a lot of things to share. Cleanliness is one of the top priorities of this city. I request every reader to visit it at least once. Also, the cover story on conservationists was worth reading. I salute all those great personalities who are really doing a great job in helping our wildlife.

Though, it would have been great if you could have provided websites

m

and emails of these volunteers, so that the readers could also join them in their noble cause. sandeep kumar, amritsar

edition of OT and finished reading it in a day. In this issue, the feature ‘Nocturnes’ and its photographs of reptiles and amphibians made me nostalgic. They were so realistic that at once I was transported to my childhood days when during the rainy season I’d sit and watch these colourful amphibians. Also, thanks team OT for turning the spotlight on the ‘Guardians of the Wild’, which definitely inspires me to conserve wildlife and their habitats.

With every October issue of OT, my belief gets stronger that wildlife is slowly, steadily, but surely overtaking ‘civilised life’ with regards to preserving culture, habits, unity and amnesty. Our wild brethren have refused to succumb to competition, jealousy and greed. If an animal as big as an elephant was herbivorous millions of years ago, it is still so.

And if a lizard survived on insects,

m

sharmila Chattopadhyay, kolkata

bear nec essities

of the letter WInS! month

CITY SHANGHAI

Traveller

www.outlooktraveller.com

Traveller

getaways

www.outlooktraveller.com

Arunachal Pradesh

getaways

Traveller

Outlook Traveller Getaways presents an exclusive guide to the mesmerisingly beautiful land of Arunachal Pradesh

Explore the unique tribal cultures of the Apatanis in Ziro, the Nyishis in Seppa and the Idu Mishmis in Dibang Valley

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Journey through the enchanting Eastern Himalayas near Tawang and visit the many monasteries and war memorials here Visit the several Himalayan Biodiversity Hotspots that are home to some endangered species of flora and fauna specific to the state

getaways

Arunachal Pradesh

■

ArunAchAl prAdesh

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GETTING UP CLOSE AND PERSONAL WITH THE POLAR BEARS OF SVALBARD. TEXT & PHOTOGRAPHS BY JAYANTH SHARMA

Find comprehensive tourist and travel information in this guide to help you discover each destination and make the most of your travels

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other PoPular tItleS from outlook traveller getawayS

froNt Cover Design Deepak Suri ISBN 978-81-89449-75-9 ■ ` 325

In partnership with

` 325

In partnership with

The letter of the month has won a copy of the new Arunachal Pradesh guide from Outlook Traveller Getaways.

• Keep wriTinG TO us aT: Outlook Traveller, aB-10 safdarjung enclave, new Delhi 110029 letters@outlooktraveller.com Svalbard is a fragile landscape, featuring islands surrounded by sea ice 92

OUTLOOK TRAVELLER • SEPTEMBER 2014

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outlook traveller • december 2017

OUTLOOK TRAVELLER • SEPTEMBER 2017

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Please note that Outlook Traveller will not be held responsible for the return of unsolicited material, including photographs.

ot 12/ 17 ● insider letter from the editor

A strange beast has been spotted at the American Museum of Natural History

At the risk of sounding slightly sensAtionAlist, i must confess that i can’t remember when i last took a holiday. sundry colleagues, grr, on the other hand have been travelling with increasing frequency through the year. of late, things have reached a frenetic pace. there’s something about the year drawing to a close that gives everyone itchy feet. i wonder why. Could it just be a desire to make amends, to ensure the year isn’t a complete washout? in my case it’s a chronic professional hazard, this blurring of the lines between business and leisure. that said, it has been a good year of travel. i have travelled more and ventured further than ever before. some destinations stand out, teasing a wistful tear or two out of me. shanghai blew me away with its sheer sprawl and cooler-than-thou vibe. spain was a pleasant high, warm and stimulating. Brazil is, well, Brazil. Mexico turned out to be one of the most offbeat trips i’ve ever undertaken. i adored san francisco’s laidback vibe. new york, where the silly photograph on this page is from, reminded me of my favourite city in the whole world. (kolkata, take a bow.) hell, i also went to nashik and loved it. (staying at a vineyard helped.) i’m already plotting my travels for the coming year. so are those infernal colleagues and you can read all about it on p. 74 of our 200th issue, which accompanies this december issue of year-end holidays. so, yes, in 2018 i will travel. But holiday? um, no. @omitdixit —AMIT DIXIT

contributors#

anshika nagar is a 21-year-old journalism student hoping to make it in this big bad world.

She prefers solitude to company; her ideal day starts with perfectly brewed coffee and ends with binge watching her latest TV obsession or losing herself in a good book. She is forever looking for travel opportunities to whisk her away from reality.

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Wildlife, landscapes and exciting new places are Bhanu Devgan’s photography subjects of choice. Even though he had been to Pushkar four times, he didn’t mind going once more to capture the colourful festival. He also runs a venture, India Photography Awards, as a platform for young photographers.

outlook traveller • DeCeMBer 2017

garima Pura is a writer, filmmaker and poet with a knack for dark humour. Very recently, she developed a liking for adventures and found herself ballooning in Vizag. When not regretting her latest life decision, she can be found writing mails requesting for fee waiver to submit her latest short fiction film.

krishna angira has been a full-time photograph since 2012, when he traded his private sector job for something much closer to his heart.

He enjoys shooting travel, lifestyle and food. Travel photography, especially, appeals to him as he gets to meet new people and experience unique places.

shashi sunny is a writer and journalist. During her professional journey, she’s interviewed many celebrities and uncovered interesting facets to their personalities. When not chasing them for stories, she is always ready to pack a suitcase to travel to a new land.

o c r A m K S A

marco polo's troubleshooting guide The Khinmey Nyingma monastery in Tawang, Arunachal Pradesh

SANJOY GHOSH

I’m a 25-year-old based in Mumbai. I would like to visit the Northeast with my parents, aged 54 and 50. We are looking to travel in January or February for about 7D/6N or a maximum of 8D/7N. Is this the best time to visit the region?

Places I have zeroed in on are: Guwahati, Shillong, Cherrapunji, Mawsynram, Kaziranga National Park, Bomdila, Tawang, Tezpur and Majuli. Can you please suggest an itinerary? We prefer budget accommodation in the range of `1,500-`2,500. I hear that the road to Bomdila and Tawang is not very good and that visiting Arunachal Pradesh requires Inner-Line Permits?

Chinmay GajendraGadkar, email

First, yes, Jan-Feb would be a good time to visit the Northeast.

You have a wishlist of three states, but given that your outer time limit is eight days, I suggest you drop one. Assam you should keep, of course, but choosing

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between Meghalaya and Arunachal Pradesh will make your trip more relaxed instead of slugging out long periods on the road. My recommendation would be Guwahati–Shillong– Cherrapunji–Kaziranga–Tezpur– Guwahati; or alternatively, Guwahati–Tezpur–Bomdila– Tawang–Bhalukpong–Guwahati.

If you are keen on Majuli, however, you could consider Guwahati–Kaziranga–Majuli– Sivasagar–Tezpur–Guwahati.

Arunachal Pradesh is a Protected Area and all visitors are required to obtain permits to enter the state. Domestic tourists need an Inner-Line Permit which can be secured from the Arunachal Pradesh Resident Commissioner’s office or liaison offices located in New Delhi, Kolkata, Guwahati, Shillong, Dibrugarh, Tezpur, North Lakhimpur and Jorhat. See arunachalpradesh.

outlook traveller • december 2017

nic.in. As to roads, the Bomdila– Dirang–Tawang route is an arduous drive, thanks to frequent landslides, so account for delays and make sure to reach your destinations before nightfall.

You should certainly be able to find accommodation within your budget in most stops.

We are a family of three—two adults and a 10-year-old— planning a trip to Thailand in April-May 2018. We wanted to take a road trip from Bangkok to Koh Samui. We have two weeks and would like to allot one week to Koh Samui and the rest between Bangkok and the road trip. The suggested route is primarily along the coast: Bangkok–Samut Sakhon–Samut Songkhram–Phetchaburi– Prachaup Khiri Khan– Koh Samui. My queries are: 1. How safe is it to drive ourselves?

2. How are the roads?

3. Is there a better route?

4. Which operators would you recommend? 5. Prices range across £114–140 for 8 days. Your thoughts? 6. How about eateries along the route? 7. Suggest an ideal stopover? 8. Are there any scenic stretches on this route?

9. Would a regular international driving license be sufficient? 10.

Is it right- or left-hand driving?

11. I see a lot of National Parks and Reserves along the route.

Your recommendations? 12. How do we reach the island? What are the rates? lakshmi, email

1. A self-drive road trip in Thailand is not for the fainthearted. Visitors are frequently alarmed by the driving they encounter there. Having said that though, you’re used to Indian driving conditions and should be okay with some defensive and careful driving. Do try a driverplus-car if you’re not confident, however—asking for directions in a country where English is not very common can get tiresome

really fast. 2. The roads are rather good. 3. That’s the road to take to get from Bangkok to Samui. However, getting out of Bangkok will be highly irksome, and perhaps you should consider making your way (by train or bus) to the coastal town of Hua Hin and pick up a car rental there. This would mean doing Samut Sakhon, Samut Songkhram and Phetchaburi as day trips from Bangkok. If you do take this option, then you drive via Prachuap Khiri Khan and Chumphon before arriving at Surat Thani. 4. Avis, Hertz and Budget have car rentals with pick-up and drop-off at various locations—they’ll tend to have standardised prices too.

5. The car rental should cost you about 1,500-2,500 THB per day depending on whether you’re dropping off at the same location that you picked it up from. This usually does not include fuel.

6. Hua Hin has some excellent restaurants. Try the sea-facing You Yen Hua Hin Balcony that’s set in a lovely, restored wooden Thai house. Along the way, there are nice eateries along the shore in Prachuap Khiri Khan. If you’ve had your fill of Thai food by then, try Farang Bar at Chumphon that caters western food to expats and travellers. 7. There’s plenty to see along the way. Your stops should include Sam Roi Yot National Park and the Kui Buri Elephant Reserve in Prachuap Khiri Khan. You can also carve out some time for the beaches at Ban Krut and Bang Saphan. From Bang Saphan, take a boat out to Koh Talu for a spot of snorkelling or sea kayaking. You’ll want to break journey, and you should do that at Chumphon, which has several stay options. 8. You’re driving along the coast, though a few kilometres inland for the most part. A few diversions to the seafront should make your road trip quite scenic indeed. 9. To be able to drive in Thailand, you’ll need an International Driving Permit along with your original license, which

should be valid for a minimum of one year. 10. Left hand.

11. You should visit Kaeng Krachan from Phetchaburi or Hua Hin if possible, and Kui Buri Elephant Reserve, of course, is a must.

12. From Surat Thani, you’ll need to make your way to Don Sak, about 60km south. There are two companies offering car ferries: SeaTran Discovery (seatrandiscovery.com) and Raja Ferry Port (rajaferryport. com). A one-way crossing should cost you 400-450 THB.

We are a couple with an 11-yearold kid. My wife and I want to visit either Egypt and Jordan, or Iceland and Greenland, next February-March. Is it possible to cover the pyramids, Alexandria, Luxor along with a Nile cruise and Petra in 7-8 days? Please suggest an itinerary with approximate costs and reputed tour operators in Egypt.

Another option is Northern Lights hunting in Iceland and Greenland with visits to hot springs, national parks and amazing landscapes. Can this be done in 8-10 days? Again, please suggest an itinerary, costs and reputed tour operators.

Rajesh Kallaje, bengaluRu

There are many itineraries that combine Egypt and Jordan, but an 8-day trip doesn’t usually fit in Alexandria or a cruise of any substantial length. Memphis Tours (memphistours.com) has a 7D tour from $905; and Egypt

ES GETTY IMAG

The Tha Kha floating market in Thailand; and (below) a dhow on the Nile

Tours+ (egypttoursplus.com) offers a 10D itinerary that includes Aswan starting $1,820. If you’re keen on the Nile Cruise, SOTC (sotc.in) offers a 10N/11D package—it includes Alexandria and starts from `1,33,138 including airfare.

Combining Iceland and Greenland is possible and can be done in 8-10 days. Tour operators Nordic Visitor (nordicvisitor.com) run a partially guided 8D/7N trip called ‘Northern lights in Iceland & Greenland’ from $4,079.

India-based Anubhav Vacations (anubhavvacations.in) offers a 10N/11D tour from Mumbai from `98,000 + ¤5,400, with a oncea-year departure in July, if you’re willing to be flexible about your time of travel.

My wife and I would like to visit Mongolia next year, and seek your guidance. We are senior citizens in our mid-70s, and so have time on our hands. My wife is able to walk short distances in small stretches only. We prefer to travel business class and stay in comfort, at 3-star or 4-star hotels. We enjoy good food/local cuisine, visiting historical sites and traditional entertainment. I request an idea of the budget and the places to visit.

Though not necessary, I would prefer to look at airline packages too. haRish Kohli, email

Mongolia can be a fascinating destination, but also a little tiring given the distances and activity. A classic itinerary for the country must include the capital Ulaanbaatar, its beautiful monasteries and palaces, Lake Hovsgol in the open steppes, the sand dunes of the Gobi Desert, and a stay at a traditional ger site. If you plan to visit in July, then of course, you must include the festival of Naadam, Mongolia’s famous traditional national games.

If comfort is an objective, and money not an issue, I would recommend you join a 12D tour with Nomadic Expeditions (nomadicexpeditions.com) in the month of July. Prices start from $6,695 per person on double occupancy plus $600 per person for internal flights. They are pricey but you’ll be looked after. If that’s too expensive, consider Discover Mongolia (discovermongolia.mn) and TTR Mongolia (ttrmongolia.com), which also have tours at that time.

There are no direct flights to Ulaanbaatar from India, and the sector is an expensive one. Business Class tickets start from approx `1,20,000 on Asiana Airlines (flyasiana. com) and Korean Air (koreanair. com) with a changeover in Seoul.

TTR Mongolia also books airline tickets for you.

Travel confusion? Email mpolo@outlook india.com. Please note that Marco will reply to selected questions only in the magazine.

outlook traveller • december 2017

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eDiteD By M anek s. kohli

NORTH SOUTH EAST WEST

The brand-new Louvre Abu Dhabi is a colossal spectacle

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16 SOUVENIR 18 GO GOA ABOARD A LUXURY tRAIN 20 EVELYN SHARMA ON tHE BLISS Of tRAVEL 22 GEARBOX

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aBU DHaBI

The Louvre ConneCTion

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hough the world is filled with many different cultures, it is united by the thread of human creativity.

And it is this aspect that the Louvre Abu Dhabi museum, which opened its doors on November 11, 2017, touches upon. A decade after it was conceptualised, the museum, built as a collaborative effort between the French government and the emirate of Abu Dhabi, opens with an inaugural exhibition entitled ‘Travelling Shapes and Colours’. The Louvre Abu Dhabi, located on Saadiyat Island, is a ‘museum city’ that focusses on Arabic and contemporary design. The 12 galleries it houses have displays ranging from prehistoric artefacts (‘The First Villages’ in Gallery 1) to contemporary artworks that highlight universal themes and influences of the world (‘A Global Stage’ in Gallery 12). Surrounded by the sea, the buildings beneath the dome are connected by waterfront promenades.

Other than the galleries, there are special exhibition halls, a Children’s Museum, a 270-seat auditorium, restaurants, and a research centre. Admission cost AED 60 per adult (above 22 years); open 10am to 8pm; louvreabudhabi.ae

GETTY IMAGES

outlook traveller • DeCeMBer 2017

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SOUVENIR

GOURD LUcK

PUNEET K. PALIWAL

a JeweL UneaRtheD the GUIDe

aveller

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Traveller

getaways

froNt Cover Design Deepak Suri

Arunachal Pradesh

ArunAchAl prAdesh

etawayS

getaways

ISBN 978-81-89449-75-9 ■ ` 325

In partnership with

` 325

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INdIA’S EASTERNMOST gEM, ARUNACHAL PRAdESH, is no longer just that quaint, unexplored state. Its snow-laden mountains, beautiful river valleys and rainforests, fascinating tribes—be it the monastic Monpas or the wetland cultivating Apatanis—and, of course, the lesser-known jewels, are now being explored extensively by travellers. Find all of this captured—with great detail—in Outlook Traveller Getaways’ latest Arunachal Pradesh guidebook (272pp; `325). The book is trifurcated to focus separately on eastern, western and central Arunachal Pradesh, and systematically highlights the attractions and destinations in each. Find among the pages information neatly organised in sections such as ‘History’, ‘Orientation’, ‘Things to See and Do’, and ‘Where to Stay and Eat’. The front section has a nifty ‘Advice for Tourists’ write-up, a pretty photo feature, and write-ups on elements intrinsic to Arunachal, such as ‘Arts and Crafts’ and ‘Tribes and Traditions’. A product of extensive primary research, it features destinations like Pakke Tiger Reserve, Namdapha National Park, Ziro Valley, Bomdila and Tawang. n anshika nagar

outlook traveller • DeCeMBer 2017

• CAllED hulu IN CHINESE, a dried bottle gourd or calabash is so auspicious in Feng Shui, it isn’t funny. Brace yourself for a little lecture. The first character, hu, is the homophone of a word which means ‘to protect’ and of another one which means ‘blessing’, and is said to ward off evil spirits and illnesses. In Chinese mythology, many holy men are depicted holding one, which they could use either as a receptacle for magical potions or to confine evil spirits within it. This is, perhaps, why it is believed that the gourd can absorb negative energy from its surroundings. hulu also sounds similar to fulu, which means ‘happiness’ as well as ‘high official rank’. The slender gourd vines are called wan dai, which, in Chinese, also sounds like ‘ten thousand generations’, implying good fortune for posterity. Since there are many seeds in the gourd, it symbolises fertility. As you can see, it’s a tsunami of good luck. How could I not get one? I picked this perfect specimen from one of those 10 yuan shops near Shanghai’s atmospheric and n amit dixit bustling Yuyuan Garden area.

SKIp the QUeUe VIOLATION OF MOTOR VEHICLE RULES is a serious issue, and addressing it requires judicious attention to the public’s complaints and reports. So, the ‘Complaint Registration App’ by the Directorate of Transport, Government of Goa, comes as a welcome step towards achieving this end. The app enables citizens to fill a digital form where they can lodge complaints against vehicle owners, and these directly reach the Directorate. This way, the app bypasses the tedious process of standing in queues and filling everything on paper.

You can seamlessly address all woes against drivers, bus conductors, tourist taxis, auto rickshaws, and even private vehicles and motorcycles. You can also upload photographs, videos and documents as evidence. The Directorate then proceeds to address your complaints and guide you concerning subsequent recourse measures. The app has a plain, but not displeasing, blue interface, and is available for both Android and iOS smartphones. n aratrika bose

appwatch

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JaPaN

Land OF THe RiSing ViSa S

tarting January 1, 2018, the Government of Japan is introducing visa relaxation norms for Indian citizens seeking multiple-entry visas for shortterm stays. Applicants will no longer have to submit the ‘Applicant’s Employment Certificate’ and ‘Explanation Letter stating the reason of applying for multiple-entry visa’. They will only need their passport, a filled visa application form and documentation to prove financial capability or affiliation to enterprises. Also, multiple-entry visas (valid for five years) will be issued to applicants who have been to Japan twice or more in the past year, with submission of only their passports and visa application forms.

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goa

Seeking SuSegad

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hey all live a life of susegad, or contentment, in Goa, even if the frenetic tourist hotspots seem to suggest otherwise. The calm does go for a toss during the New Year though, when hordes of revellers descend on Goa and party. Thankfully, the upcoming 5D/4N New Year ‘Susegado Goa’ itinerary, aboard the Deccan Odyssey luxury train, takes you far from the madding crowd. It focusses on Goa’s history, culture and exclusivity, all the while providing an experience of opulence.

The journey begins and ends in Mumbai, and there are stops at three stations in Goa: Thivim, Karmali and Verna. At Thivim, a New Year gala dinner has been organised on board. At Karmali, after brunch, you can experience Old Goa and its many relics of a colonial Portuguese and Konkani past. There are some optional programmes available on board too. Finally, at Verna, a sundowner evening is on the cards. Deccan Odyssey is sure to make the experience lavish, with its 21 luxury coaches interspersed with lodging, dining, lounging, conferencing, and spa facilities. Journey between December 30, 2017 and January 3, 2018; `27,999 per person per night (twin-share); deccanodyssey.in 18

outlook traveller • december 2017

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sINgApore

JApAnEsE sMoRgAsBoRD C

an the world’s best airport get any better? Yes, it can. Passengers at Singapore’s Changi Airport can now get a true Japanese culinary experience with the opening of the SORA Japanese food hall at Terminal 2. With a massive 7,760 sq ft space that can accommodate 300 diners, six Japanese restaurant brands are serving up ramen, sashimi, okonomiyaki and Nippon-inspired desserts and beverages, among other culinary enticements. There’s Tsuruhashi Fugetsu, a well-known restaurant chain that offers Japanese savoury pancakes. The Japoli Kitchen serves Italian-Japanese fusion dishes.

For meshi (rice dishes) with kaisen (seafood) and torobutsu (tuna), head to Kuro Maguro. Tendon Kohaku specialises in Edomae-style tendon with Hokkaido rice and crisp tempura. And, at SORA Bar, patrons can enjoy Hokkaido milk ice cream, sake, mojitos and, of course, the Singapore Sling.

CHINA

DREAM LIBRARY

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sk any bookworm for a wish they want granted, and chances are they’ll request for a huge library with floor-to-ceiling shelves of books and the perfect reading nook. The Tianjin Binhai Library in Tianjin, China—the result of a collaboration between architecture company MVRDV and the Tianjin Urban Planning and Design Institute (TUPDI)—brings this wish to life with its huge, white, spherical atrium. It is embellished with lines of bookshelves running all the way up to the ceiling. While the pictures suggest a full library, in reality, there are few actual books on the shelves.

The illusion is courtesy of pictures of book spines pasted on the walls. The library, which opened in October, reportedly doesn’t have permission to place all of its books in the atrium. Most of them, in fact, lie in other rooms with traditional bookshelves, which may not be as instagrammable. But that won’t stop our social media feeds from being flooded by pictures of this library.

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GLOBUS FAMILY OF BRANDS CELEBRATES 90 YEARS

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Email: india@globusandcosmos.com | Website: www.globusfamily.com/india

South America among others.

“2018 marks a special year for the Globus family of brands,” said Varesh Chopra, Regional Director – South Asia and Middle East. “90 years ago our founder – Antonio Mantegazza – purchased a rowboat to transport visitors across Lake Lugano, Switzerland. Nine decades later, we’re still paddling, steering and cruising travelers through the wonders of six continents.”

On all tours, travelers experience expertly designed tours with quality accommodations, guided sightseeing, engaging commentary by expert Tour Directors and authentic destination flavors.

Every one stays connected – even on the road – with FREE Wi-Fi on every motorcoach!

NSEW ● fellow traveller Tell us about your journey as an actor and model.

I came to India to reconnect with my Punjabi roots, when I got picked up by the fashion industry. A big beauty brand signed me as their brand ambassador and that became a ticket to enter Bollywood, after which there has been no looking back. The journey from being a model to an actor has not been easy, but with each passing day, I try to better myself and achieve everything I have wished for.

Tell us about your popular beauty and wellness blog, Evelyn’s Secrets.

The idea of unveiling my very own blog was to get closer to my fans by sharing rare insights from my life and what I truly believe in. Evelyn’s Secrets is very close to my heart.

EVELYn shARmA ACTOR & MODEL

BEAUTY OF TRAVEL What does travel mean to you?

I began to travel the world when I started my career as a model. I realised, beauty comes from unexplored and unpredictable places. I started feeling blissful, and gradually, travelling became something I couldn’t live without.

What have been some of your favourite places to visit?

Can’t really pick one but my best experiences have been in New York, Paris & the Philippines.

What are some of your travel necessities?

The musts in my travel kit include a face mist to keep my skin hydrated on long flights, cherry flavour lip balm, a detangling comb and a big pillow because I have a tendency to fall asleep while travelling. n

manek s. kohli

Give us some anecdotes from these travels.

Growing up in Germany, I just couldn’t get enough of the beauty of the place. After I started visiting other places like the Philippines, I got to learn a lot about different cultures and different kinds of delicacies. The locals would be extremely sweet and helpful. One of my recent discoveries has been Budapest, Hungary. The art and sculpture there was stunning and a treat for onlookers.

What places in Germany do you recommend?

The places which one should never miss are the Neuschwanstein Castle for its architectural beauty, and the Wadden Sea for its perfect sunset. Apart from these, there are a lot more places to sightsee.

I began to travel the world when I started my career as a model. I realIsed, beauty comes from unexplored and unpredIctable places 20 outlook traveller • DeCeMBer 2017

Top to bottom: Evelyn Sharma had a great time in New York City; she always keeps a big pillow handy during travel; and Neuschwanstein Castle, which she feels is a mustvisit when in Germany

We Love Bengal

NSEW ● Gearbox

riders in the sun

philips travel iron Good things come in small packages, which also means that they are travel friendly. Philips’ travel iron is a little over half a kilogram and comes with a nifty carry pouch. Its small dimensions don’t sacrifice on features such as ‘steam boost’, vertical steam to tackle tough creases, and a non-stick soleplate. Also, the grip’s quite ergonomic and the cute peach-and-grey look adds a nice touch. (`1,795; philips.co.in)

columbia bugaboot plus titanium omni-heat outdry boot

royal enField interceptor int 650 One thing that makes every new Royal Enfield bike as iconic as the last one is the interesting, often historically rooted, back story. In the case of the new Interceptor INT 650, it’s a homage to the relaxed and playful motorcycles from 1960s California, which evoke a sense of sunny, carefree days.

But that’s barely scratching the surface regarding this 648cc twin-engine bike. It is also the first RE bike to have a six-speed gearbox, which ensures better control and allows for simpler manoeuvring in traffic—thanks to a ‘slip/assist clutch’. It produces a fair 47bhp of power, and is equipped with wide-braced handlebars to allow a comfortable, ergonomic riding position. Its ‘dedicated steeltube cradle chassis’, or the frame of the bike, is designed to guarantee agility and ensure that the bike adjusts to all terrains and speeds. All this is, indeed, a step ahead for Royal Enfield, even as it continues to maintain its classic, vintage vibe. (Price unannounced. Expected to be between `3lakh and `3.5lakh, reaches showrooms in March-April, 2018; royalenfield.com)

Michelin makes tyres and Columbia Sportswear makes, well, sportswear. When the two collaborate, they create a monster of a trekking shoe. The Omni-Heat Outdry Boot has a waterproof leather upper, providing insulation up to -40°C, a ‘waterproof injection moulded shell’, a lightweight midsole, an outsole that assures grip and flexibility even at -30°C, and some fancy ‘ice control technology’ that allows for seamless control on icy terrain. It should also make you look smart while trekking up those challenging heights. (`12,999; columbiasportswear.co.in)

montblanc sartorial Jet A lot of thought has gone into Montblanc’s new collection of 16 luggage pieces and accessories. The concept is to equip the busy city dweller with everything they need on the fly. Take, for instance, the ‘Document Case Slim/Large’, which has convenient storage spaces to help you organie work essentials. As for the ‘Vertical Tote’, there’s again a good amount of space, but you also get to carry it stylishly.

With ‘Reporter’, ‘Envelope Medium/Small’ and ‘Messenger Large with Flap’, you get a variety of cross-body bag options. And, if you’re looking for a place to keep the cash and the wallet, the ‘Hip Bag’ is a safe option. Store grooming accessories in the ‘Wash Bag’, and hang a shirt or coat in the car with the ‘Garment Bag’. Now, doesn’t that cover everything? But there’s more—this entire collection is designed by combining nylon and Saffiano-printed waterproof and scratch-resistant leather, which keeps things lightweight. And since it’s all black, it’s classy as hell. (From ¤105; montblanc.com) 22

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timex blink smartwatch Timex’s watchmaking prowess and tech-startup Blink’s technical expertise come together to great effect in the new Timex Blink smartwatch. There are six variants, differentiated by various colour combinations of straps and cases. Also, the strap is interchangeable. The smartwatch is feature-rich too—you can send SOS alerts, enjoy a 10-day battery life, track your step count, realtime activity and sleep pattern, set a smart alarm and use the touchscreen for control. It’s easy on the wallet, too. (`4,995; timexindia.com)

The Il Mare Italian restaurant amid swaying palms

hotels

check out 24 anantara peace haven, tangalle 28 ananda in the himalayas, uttarakhand 31 baba’s beans coffee bar, delhi

[ check out ]

TranquilliTy aT Tangalle Amid swaying coconut palms, Charukesi Ramadurai cooks up a scrumptious Sri Lankan meal and soaks in luxury at Anantara Peace Haven

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ithin minutes of my arrival at the Anantara Peace Haven in Tangalle, my private valet announced that he had a busy itinerary ready for me. Hello, this was supposed to be a relaxing stay, I thought but didn’t say out aloud. Turns out, I worried needlessly, for my itinerary

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was indeed packed but far from hectic.

Set off the bustle of the main road on the south coast of Sri Lanka, the new(ish) Anantara property is the stuff of picture postcards. It is situated on the site of an erstwhile coconut plantation, which meant that the land’s greens and blues vied for attention wherever I turned. From my spacious Ocean View

Pool Villa at one end of the resort, I had spectacular views of the aquamarine Indian Ocean, through a thin curtain of swaying coconut palms.

Although Tangalle falls on the busy tourist route between the capital city of Colombo and the popular Yala National Park, this stretch has managed to stay away from the onslaught of the

small and large hotels found further up along the coast. There are several tourist attractions—a rock temple here, a surfing beach there—within a couple of hours’ drive, but for pleasure seekers such as myself, there really was no reason to step out of Anantara.

In fact, I could (and tried my best to) spend all day just outside my villa, listening to the roar of the sea and cooling off in the plunge pool. The only exercise I got was on my walks to the various restaurants at meal times; except in the peak midday heat, I eschewed the valet and buggy mode of transport for leisurely strolls through the winding paths bordered by trees.

The villa itself, with its straight lines and open spaces, was a tribute to local design and architectural elements.

Bright fabric furnishings, quirky wall décor items and colonial teak and rattan

furniture dotted the bedroom, while the bathroom was an ode to indulgence, with its massive bathtub and separate shower and change areas. And when the trek to one of the restaurants located near the main lobby seemed too much of a chore, I ordered a sumptuous local meal of Sri Lankan curry with rice to the room, served on a pretty wrought-iron table with matching white chairs near the pool.

There was not much need for this though, given that there are six dining options inside the property. From the multi-cuisine coffee shop Journeys, where the breakfast spread included my local favourites (string hoppers with piquant sambol and thick dal) to Verele that served teppenyaki with a Sri Lankan twist, I was spoilt for choice.

On my first evening at Anantara, I had a smoked arrack cocktail at the tea lounge overlooking the lush expanse of the

Clockwise from top left: a tea maker shows off his skills in the lobby lounge; ocean view villa; Anantara gives you ample opportunity for beach picnics; and an ayurvedic treatment at the spa

property before heading for dinner at the Il Mare Italian restaurant. Seated at a table on the outside patio, I tucked into pasta and wine to the audio backdrop of the waves crashing against the huge boulders on the shore.

The special experience here, however, was not the eating (alone) but the Spice Spoons cooking lessons curated by the chefs. In preparation for that meal, I headed out with the chef after breakfast to the local market at Tangalle, with a short detour to the paddy fields lining the highway. The tall stalks of the red rathu kekulu—the nutritious local favourite used in string hoppers and most meals—swayed in the tropical breeze as outlook traveller • december 2017

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HOTELS

A private dining space by the Indian Ocean

we waded through the fields to watch the farmers at work.

The market was a cornucopia of fresh vegetables and fruit gleaming in the muted sunlight that had found its way through the narrow slants in the red-tiled roof. The vendors were doing brisk business, regular customers bantering and bargaining with obvious relish. There were plump and purple brinjals, long and green bananas jostling for space with the golden yellow jackfruit everywhere. We wandered through the crowded aisles, lazily stopping at several stalls to shop for the meal, buying local specialities like winged beans and lotus stem.

Back at the hotel, I cooled my heels 26

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with a king coconut water—somewhat literally after the blazing heat of the morning—waiting for the team to set up the cooking class at the Spice Spoons room. Under the watchful eyes of the chefs, the lesson was an elaborate affair, laced liberally with fresh coconut, onions and tomato, cinnamon and bay leaves. At the end of two hours, we sat for a hot Sri Lankan vegetarian lunch cooked entirely by me (okay, I fried the onions and garnished with coconut whenever instructed—and I have the photos to prove it).

A meal like that deserved the respect of a nap, after which it was time for a pampering session at the Anantara Spa. Never one to shy away from massages, I let

myself almost fall asleep as the masseuse worked magic on my aching muscles for an hour. Walking back to my villa in a well-oiled stupor at the end of the massage, I was sure I could get used to this.

The good life is rather easy to get used to, after all.

The informaTion

LOCATION Goyambokka Estate, Tangalle, Sri Lanka. 215km/3.5hr from Colombo’s Bandaranaike International Airport ACCOMMODATION 152 rooms and villas TARIFF From $374 (premier beach access room) including taxes and breakfast CONTACT + 94-47-7670700; tangalle.anantara.com

hotels

Yoga classes in session at Ananda

[ check out ]

the joy of healing At Ananda in the Himalayas, Shashi Sunny indulges in what must be the pleasantest detox programme in the world

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f it is rejuvenation and renewal of the weary self that you seek, rest yourself at Ananda in the Himalayas. The property is an award-winning luxury destination spa resort in India nestled among the sal forests of the Himalayan foothills just above the spiritual town of Rishikesh.

Actually, arriving at Ananda itself is a cleansing ritual. Layers of stress 28

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peel off as you board the plane, leaving the dust and chaos of Delhi behind and head to the quieter township of Dehradun, then drive through dense forests and scenic mountain roads with stunning valley vistas. Finally, passing through the ornate palace gates as you catch a glimpse of preening peacocks strutting around lush greens, tranquillity completely envelops you.

You are received at the palace with a traditional welcome of garlands, aromatic candles, calming incense and a ceremonial aarti to remove any trace of negativity that may linger with you. Just the sight of the mountain ranges, the silvery Ganga river shining in the green valley, and tall forests hint at a stay that will be nirvana for your mind and your soul. Sure enough, after the check-in,

as I am taken through sprawling greens to the rooms, restaurant and spa area which is to be my serene abode for the next four days, I feel I am truly on a purifying pilgrimage.

My visit to Ananda is not meant to be just a quick getaway but a journey for the holistic healing of mind, body and soul. Yoga, ayurveda and Vedanta (a philosophy of life), complemented with organic food based on an ayurvedic diet as well as with international cuisines, seamlessly combine with authentic wellness traditions drawn from other parts of Asia and the west, and make up the recipe for Ananda’s healing process.

Overlooking the Ganga valley, this destination spa is fashioned out of the 100-acre Maharaja’s Palace Estate and customises your recovery programme for your specific needs.

The spa with its zen-like calmness is, of course, Ananda’s jewel in the crown.

The hydrotherapy facilities include an invigorating steam room, wooden sauna, plunge pool, and a foot bath where you

can walk on pebbles in a pool that has different temperatures at different levels.

There are relaxation areas with sofa and loungers and beautiful views to enjoy before and after the treatments.

Also on offer are yoga classes, meditation sessions, Vedanta talks by visiting masters, swimming, golf, gym and mountain treks as well as a trip down to Rishikesh for the Ganga aarti at sunset. If you have opted for a wellness package, as you should, you are suggested specific treatments and a diet that is most suited to your body type and also advised activities best suited for you after an in-depth consultation with the in-house doctor.

Most guests at Ananda are on a wellness package—either to detox, lose weight, rejuvenate, or de-stress. My detox programme is a brief introduction to the longer, more comprehensive wellness programmes Ananda has on offer. The ayurvedic doctor at the spa explains why I need this cleansing, “Toxins constantly build up in the body due to pollution and

other environmental factors leading to lack of energy, weight gain, etc.” Ananda’s four-night Detox-Starter programme is an introduction to those who have not experienced an Ananda Detox before.

The programme integrates the essential elements of ayurveda and aromatherapy, yogic kriyas, meditation and personal fitness with a dosha-based customised diet that leaves you refreshed with a toned body, glowing skin and increased energy levels. A word of advice: take an appointment for your spa treatment and do not be late or else your treatment time will be cut down!

A thoughtful gesture is the pristine white kurta-pajama placed daily in your room. It’s a great dawn-to-dusk wear during your sojourn, provided, of course, you are wearing appropriate innerwear.

With over 80 treatments on offer, you’ll be spoilt for choice. If you are on a wellness programme, the treatments are fixed after consultation and it is best to stick to the schedule.

As a ‘Pita’ body type, I was prescribed

Clockwise from here: Ananda’s lush green surroundings; beetroot poached pears; room décor; and a spa treatment

the Abhyanga, the “four-handed massage”, the Swedish massage and the signature Ananda Fusion—a combination of several tested treatments.

My final treatment, a luxurious rose facial, was the icing on the cake.

The Pavilion is the venue for all meals, and I mostly ate on the deck amid fresh air, the chirping of birds and the aroma of the forest all around me. Not surprisingly, the food was organic and fresh, and tasted fabulous. My meals were also planned according to my body type. The dishes were drawn from Indian, oriental and continental cuisine, and ranged from moong dal pancakes and pumpkin soup to mint and coriander marinated fish and sugarfree chocolate ice cream. If you are not on a wellness diet, the choice of dishes is huge and innovative. For wellness-package guests, food is planned depending on whether 30

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you are a Vata, Pita or Kapha body type, with all care taken to ensure that it does not become monotonous.

The Ananda experience is perfect for those looking for an introduction to an alternative lifestyle that you can continue even after you have gone back home.

To really know what the experience is all about, one should try all that this destination spa has to offer like early morning yoga, Vedanta talks, meditation classes, a walk in the nearby forest, the wellness menu and even a visit to the kitchen garden to learn all about the benefits of different herbs. But if all you want is a calming couple of days, just opt for a valley-view room like I did, curl up on the balcony with your cup of organic tea or coffee provided in the room, watch the Ganga shimmer or the Rishikesh lights sparkle.

If a detox-wellness regimen is not for

you, you can also come to Ananda on a getaway package for a few nights. On a getaway break, you can order from the regular menu, even ask for a wine or cocktail. But I was more than happy to be high on just the Himalayas, the signature honey, lemon and ginger tea, and the Ananda experience.

The informaTion

LOCATION The Palace Estate, Narendra Nagar Tehri-Garhwal, Narendra Nagar, Uttarakhand 249175 ACCOMMODATION 78 rooms, suites and villas TARIFF A 3N Getaway Package at Ananda in the Himalayas starts from `17,500 singles plus `11,000 per person per night (spa and meals). A 4N Detox Starter package starts from `11,000 singles plus `19,000 per person night (spa and meals).

CONTACT + 91-124-4516650; reservations@anandaspa.com

[ fresh table ]

the forest in a cup

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offee is known to acquire flavours from its neighbouring plants, which makes every batch unique. It is this very quality of the beverage that a new café in the capital seeks to amplify for your discerning senses. Baba’s Beans Coffee Bar, the first brick and mortar shop of the eponymous artisanal coffee brand, sprouted recently in the entry lobby of Vivanta by Taj-Ambassador, New Delhi. While a regular menu here offers the everyday

cappuccinos and espressos, a lab menu presents a variety of brewing experiments, including Cantatas—coffee platters of hot and cold brews infused with a host of organic flavours. Named after Baba Budan, who brought the first coffee beans to India in the 17th century, the company is the brainchild of two college friends, Sadhavi Ashwani and Mrinal Sharma. Try their spiced hot coffee, and affogato with candied orange and walnuts. babasbeans.com

hi, robot Whether it’s small talk or extra polite smiles, humans in hospitality are often found wanting when it comes to guest interaction. Hotel Jen Tanglin and Hotel Jen Orchardgateway in Singapore may have just the solution. Their newest staffers are Jeno and Jena, two autonomous relay robots. Whether it’s a midnight hunger pang or an extra towel, the robots will collect the item from housekeeping and bring it to the room. They can ride elevators and make phone calls, and even have a sensor to avoid obstacles. Dressed in the brand colours of turquoise and pink, these metre-tall robots don’t need any human intervention.

cover story andamans

woods by

Neil’s Cove on Radhanagar Beach is a haven of tranquil emerald waters, sheltered sand and tropical forest 32

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the sea

From kayaking in the night and scuba diving to trekking up a mountain, Sumeet KeSwani discovers the thrilling side oF the andamans. photographs by KriShna angira outlook traveller • SePteMBer 2017

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hen it comes to holidaying, most people find themselves torn between beaches and hills. For me, this battle has always been fought between the ocean and the forest. Do I dive into the blues and luxuriate on the shore, kissed relentlessly by the doting sea; or do I wander in the wilderness, autumn leaves the hue of sunset crumpling beneath my feet and birdsong perched on my shoulder?

The Andamans is one place that doesn’t make me choose. Islands covered with lush green tropical forests and surrounded by pristine blue waters—it’s my own personal brand of paradise. I devised the itinerary for my second trip to the islands around the most and the lesser visited places. My first base was the most popular one, Havelock, located around 40km northeast of Port Blair. The journey to the jetty involved a five-hour flight from Delhi and a 90-minute ferry ride from Port Blair, during which I was reintroduced to the history and attractions of the islands by a recorded audio-visual of the late Tom Alter in his warm, soothing voice. Once I was at Havelock, all I wanted to do was lounge on a hammock by the sea.

But I wasn’t here to indulge clichés. Not this time. So, after I had checked into the Barefoot Scuba Resort on Beach No. 3 (Govind Nagar), I headed straight back to the jetty. A little way down the road (read beach) awaited my instructors, Bhupender Kumar aka Bhupi, Unnikrishnan, and a local boy named Gidyon.

What did they all have in common? A love for kayaks.

While Bhupi had been kayaking for 27 years in the waters of the Ganga with Snow Leopard Adventures, Unnikrishnan was a navy personnel trainer and goldmedallist at the national level, and Gidyon was a Karen settler who knew these waters better than I know my way to the nearest Big Bazaar.

An early sunset and crisp briefing later, we approached the shore where seven single-seat, siton-top kayaks awaited us in the dark. As I climbed into one, the idea of night kayaking suddenly seemed frightening and frankly quite absurd. I practised a few strokes in the shallows. The other newbies, my photographer Krishna and a London-based Indianorigin couple, Ajay and Kamini, too looked unsure about this venture. The waters were pitch black, the only lights that on the jetty which we sought to leave behind. “This is madness,” I thought to myself, but rowed nonetheless, shoulders aching in protest.

There was no moon in the sky, few stars that outshone the jetty, and a smattering of clouds that didn’t threaten. As we moved further into the shadows, more stars twinkled into view. Soon, a stranger thing happened. The water began twinkling as well, on the paddle’s contact with the ocean’s surface. At first, 34

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Clockwise from here: dive instructor Shonali awaits my giant stride into the blues; reptiles are aplenty on the trek to Saddle Peak, Diglipur; and a hermit crab scampers into its shell

The bows of our kayaks were outlined by fleeting blue-green sparks, as were the paddles. How do you explain such magic? outlook traveller • deceMBer 2017

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andamans

A school of rabbit fish at the Aquarium dive site; and (facing page) a fellow scuba diver maintains his neutral buoyancy PHOTOGRAPHS BY SUMEET KESWANI

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it was a little spark, like a failed attempt at igniting a sparkler. But as we switched off our headlights and the jetty’s beacons were swallowed by the mangroves that now flanked us, the water started to burst into confetti of light with every stroke. Bioluminescence!

There couldn’t be a more scientific name for a more magical phenomenon. But the idea of glowing water had always been on my bucket list. So much so that I had the science of it by heart.

Some phytoplankton produce bioluminescence through a chemical reaction as a defence mechanism when they are agitated. That results in bluegreen light particles being emitted, each for a fraction of a second, at the breaking of waves at some beaches around the world. It’s one thing to know about something

like this, but entirely another to witness it. The bows of our kayaks were outlined by ephemeral blue-green sparks, and so were the paddles as they breached the surface. It was a surreal sight right out of Life of Pi, albeit more subtle and worth every ounce of muscle I had put into it. There was no chance of photographing the glow—it was too dark, the sparks were too fleeting, and I couldn’t bring a DSLR aboard the kayak—so I just splashed water around, like a kid discovering the secret of a magic trick. “How do you even explain this to people back home?” asked a bewildered Kamini.

“Stars in the sky, stars in the water,” sang Bhupi in reply. And we all sang along. Like a night song of pirates who had found fabled gold.

It’s hard to top that kind of a first day, err… night. So the next day, I embarked on the only thing that could match the spell of bioluminescence—scuba diving.

The 113 sq km Havelock has long been a bustling hub for watersports and provides access to a number of exciting dive spots in Ritchie’s Archipelago. I am a PADI-certified open water diver but since this was my first day diving after a few months on land, the instructors at the Barefoot dive centre chose two easy sites, Aquarium and Turtle Beach. It took us 45 outlook traveller • deceMBer 2017

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minutes of serene sailing onboard a restored wooden boat that was once used by Burmese poachers, to reach Aquarium. On the way, I was briefed on the marine life we could expect. The only thing to watch out for, said my instructor Shonali, was the triggerfish, which could behave rather aggressively. “It’s got an attack zone that’s shaped like an inverted cone, so swim down and sideways to evade it,” I was told. The Aquarium is also known for its dolphin sightings.

Rylan, another dive instructor, told me about the time a pod of playful dolphins joined a snorkelling group in the shallows. While I did not get to meet my favourite marine mammals, I did see a variety of colourful marine life during the dive, including a threatening moray eel, a porcupine fish that cruised close to the sea floor, a giant puffer fish and many butterfly fish.

For the second dive at Turtle Beach, I had my hopes pinned on spotting a turtle or octopus, creatures that had eluded me in 13-odd dives. Instead, I got the notorious triggerfish. But this particular individual was in no mood to dance the dance with me. I also encountered a variety of clown fish 38

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guarding their anemones, all extremely angry at us for having intruded on their extremely busy day of swimming around. A number of clams saw us and shut their doors. A few were welcoming and let us peek inside. Parrotfish pecked at corals for their algae meals with reckless abandon and moorish idols floated gracefully, their dorsal fin crests tailing their two-dimensional bodies. Sea urchins sat tight in their nooks and crannies, relying on their numerous spines to keep us at bay while a tiny boxfish fled the scene like a con avoiding capture. Our dives lasted over 45 minutes each and reached up to 12-14m depth. Here in the shallows at Andamans, you don’t get to see big creatures, but the small, colourful fish are present in large schools. As I ascended one last time, scores of fusiliers and sergeant majors swirled around me as a fond farewell.

At dusk, I visited the Barefoot Resort nestled inside a rainforest by the Radhanagar Beach (No. 7).

Frequently called the best beach in Asia, the white sand here acts as a dream bridge between the ocean and the forest, which is sprayed with sea mist every

Clockwise from above: Barefoot Resort is nestled in a rainforest by Radhanagar Beach; a seafacing cottage at the Barefoot Scuba Resort; and the Saddle Peak trek goes through a rocky dark-sand beach

morning by the gushing waves. To get to the beach, I walked through a thick curtain of forest, dotted with padauk, mahua, sundari, and the endemic Andaman teak among others. Walking along the edge of the forest towards the right end, beyond a rocky stretch, I found the otherworldly lagoon called Neil’s Cove.

The water is quiet here, arriving at the sheltered sand as a silent afterthought. And it is of a distinct emerald hue. It’s hard to imagine that this heavenly lagoon was the site of a fatal crocodile attack seven years ago.

In April 2010, a foreign tourist swimming here was grabbed by a saltwater crocodile, following which the beaches were closed until the creature was captured.

Now, the only inhabitants of this Garden of Eden are songbirds and hermit crabs, which watched the sunset alongside me in quiet contemplation.

One can never get enough of Havelock, but my next destination beckoned. Diglipur is all the way up in North Andaman. It’s a three-hour ferry ride to Rangat

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From Ross, a thin sandbank leads to Smith Island; and (top) one of three streams that cross the route up to Saddle Peak

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port and a five-hour drive from there to Pristine Resort, by the Kalipur beach, in Diglipur. Here, too, there’s a curtain of forest, but there are no marked trails. I collected some nasty cuts and scratches from overgrown vines before finding myself on a dark beach on a bright morning. The volcanic sand here might not be as easy on the eyes as the white expanse of Radhanagar, but it suits the turtles that arrive in the hundreds for nesting from mid-December to April. The turtles come from four families—olive

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ridley, green sea, hawksbill and leatherback. I was a month early, so I missed their invasion, but the Kalipur beach had its own charms. On a morning jog, I was greeted by soft waves that touched the shore with a gentle assurance. Unlike the youthful frothing of Radhanagar, the ocean here has an elderly calm, its skin folding on itself at the shore. But I wasn’t here to indulge my musings. In the distance loomed Saddle Peak, the highest in the Andamans at 732m, covered by dense forest and capped by clouds of its own making. Later, we would make an attempt at the mountain, underestimating the task for the numbers involved. The heat and humidity of the coastal forest, combined with the rain-soaked forest floor, thwarted our trek. The guide, a lanky local named Prabhas Mandal, paced ahead of us like the climb was his morning jog. I followed him faithfully for four kilometres before turning back for my photographer, who had given up a kilometre ago. We may be pirates of the glowing seas but we leave no man behind.

The highlight of Diglipur, and the reason driving most visitors here, is the island formation of Ross and Smith. A 20-minute speedboat ride from Ariel Bay jetty took me to the twin islands, which are connected by a thin sandbank that stretches 850 metres in length.

In high tide, the sandbank gets submerged and the islands are momentarily separated. Even locals of the

city shanghai

A deluxe room at Pristine Resort amid homegrown herbs and spices in Diglipur

union territory, like our mild-mannered chauffeur Salaam from Little Andaman, swear that these virgin islands are the most beautiful among those accessible in the archipelago. Both Ross and Smith are covered

by lush rainforests; Smith has been developed, albeit minimally, to receive tourists while Ross remains a wildlife sanctuary with nothing but a forest trail that leads to a lighthouse. The forest floor here is alive with thousands of hermit crabs that retreat into their unique shells—all together on cue—as you approach. Over at Smith, there are beach beds, huts for shade, benches, and dingy changing rooms and washrooms. And, thankfully, there are no food stalls, which prevents litter on the white sand. As I was looking for vantage points for the perfect frame of the sandbank that seemed to rise out of the sea to bridge the islands, a wall of rain approached from the horizon, swallowing up the ocean in swathes. My first instinct was to take shelter in a hut. But once the camera was tucked into safety, I ran out to swim in the clear turquoise sea being pounded by an artillery of raindrops. And, just like that, the Andamans had granted me another one of my bucket-list wishes.

# THE INFORMATION GETTING THER E >Multiple carriers service the New Delhi-Port Blair route, with a single stop in either Kolkata or Chennai. SpiceJet is set to start a non-stop flight (3hr45min) from December 10. Government and privately operated ferries (from `900; makruzz.com, greenoceancruise. com) leave at fixed times on the Port Blair-Havelock route (1.5hr), the last one from Port Blair departing at 2pm and from Havelock at 4.15pm. Book your flights accordingly. Barefoot provides transfer services (`4,400 per person) that include ferry ticket charges, pick-up and drop at Port Blair (airport-jettyairport) and at Havelock (jettyresort-jetty). >A government ferry (8.45am) from Havelock will take you to Rangat (from `355) in around three hours. The drive from Rangat to Diglipur takes about 4-5 hours. If you plan to take the Grand Andaman Trunk Road (NH4) from Diglipur all the way to Port Blair (325km, 12hrs) on the return trip, keep in mind that there are three points where your vehicle will board a ferry and three checkposts, one of which—middle strait—opens at four fixed timings 42

(6.30am, 9.30am, 12.30pm, 3pm). From this checkpost to the Jirkatang checkpost is a two-hour mandatorily non-stop drive of 47km in a police convoy to avoid contact with Jarawa tribals who populate these forests. Photography of the tribals is strictly prohibited. A cab will cost you nearly `20,000 for a three-day round trip to Diglipur including siteseeing.

WHER E TO STAY >At Havelock, Barefoot Scuba Dive Resort (formerly Café Del Mar) on Beach No. 3 is minimalistic when it comes to luxury but efficient for those in the Andamans to dive and snorkel. It is the starting point for all dive boats of Barefoot Scuba.

There are five sea-facing cottages (from `7,000, doubles CP), one sea-view cottage and four tented cottages (both from `4,500) and 10 minimalistic A-frame huts for those pursuing dive courses with Barefoot Scuba (from `400).

CONTACT +91-9566088560 (reservations), +91-9474263120; dive@barefootindia.com. See diveandamans.com. Bear in mind that Barefoot maintains a very organic approach to hospitality in both

outlook traveller • deceMBer 2017

its resorts, which means no wifi, no television in the rooms and no room service. >In Diglipur, Pristine Beach Resort is located near Kalipur beach. It has three categories of rooms on offer—Standard (`2,000), Deluxe (`3,500) and Villa (`5,000), CP rates, taxes extra. CONTACT +913192271793, +91-9474286787, alexpristinebeach@hotmail.com.

WHAT TO SEE & DO >Night kayaking sounds scary but is surprisingly easy and very safe. The activity is a joint initiative by Barefoot and Snow Leopard Adventures. If you want to experience bioluminescence at its glowing best, go on a new moon night (`3,000 per person).

Wear clothes that you don’t mind getting drenched. >Barefoot Scuba is a 5-star PADI certified dive centre that conducts diving and snorkelling activities at various hotspots of marine biodiversity around Havelock. If you aren’t a certified diver, you can take a trial with Discover Scuba Dive (from `5,250), opt for a snorkelling expedition (from `4,500), or get PADI-certified as an open-water diver (`25,200).

If you’re already certified, go for

a couple of fun dives (`5,750).

CONTACT instructors@ barefootindia.com. >The trek to Saddle Peak is best done between January and early March, when the temperature is pleasant for a hike and rain doesn’t pose a problem. Wear trekking shoes, carry first aid and ample water and snacks. It should take around four hours to summit. >You can see mass nesting of turtles on Kalipur and Ramnagar beaches in Diglipur from midDecember to April. >Don’t miss a trip to Ross and Smith islands. A permit (`50) can be obtained at the Ariel Bay jetty between 6am and 2pm.

A separate permit has to be bought at Smith to access Ross. A speedboat takes around 20min.

Go just before high tide to see the sand bank disappear before your eyes. The permit gives you three hours on the islands. Any additional time may be penalised. >Around 20km from Diglipur, in the semi-evergreen jungle of Shyamnagar, is a series of mud volcanoes, some of them bigger than those found in Baratang. It takes around 20min of walking on a forest trail to reach these.

n sumeet keswani

jharkhand GOVERNMENT OF JHARKHAND DEPARTMENT OF TOURISM

M.D.I. Building, 2nd Floor, Dhurwa, Ranchi 834004 Secretary Ph.: 0651-2400981, Fax : 0651-2400982, Email : govjharkhandtourism@gmail.com Director Ph. : 0651-2400493, Fax : 2400492, Email : dirjharkhandtourism@gmail.com, JTDC Email : jtdcltd@gmail.com Website : www.jharkhandtourism.gov.in, www.facebook.com/jharkhandtourismdepartment Twitter:https://twitter.com/visitjharkhand, YouTube : https//m.youtube.com/channel/UCKDHUzseKwkESQLzOliVOA

travel promotion

THE DANCE of

NATURE

Gujarat is a natural wonderland waitinG to be discovered

G

ujarat owes its increasing importance as an eco-tourism destination to three magnificent and unique geographic regions. There’s the Saurashtran peninsula with its smattering of low hills; the dry and rocky Kutch region in the northeast known for the Rann (desert) of Kutch, the Greater Rann in the north and the Little Rann in the east; and there’s the mainland running all the way from the Rann of Kutch and the Aravalli Hills to the plains of the Damanganga. The over 1,600km-long coastline, the longest among the Indian states, skirts the state and nurtures remarkable and varied eco-systems.

LITTLE RANN OF KUTCH (LRK) The world’s biggest salt desert, Gujarat’s Rann is said to be a sort of transitional expanse between marine and

terrestrial ecosystems. Appearances are deceptive when you first look at this desolate moonscape, and you’ll be surprised at the immense diversity of wildlife and avifaunal life supported here. A critical extension of the Great Rann of Kutch, LRK’s 4,953 sq km sprawl falls within the Rann of Kutch Seasonal Salt Marsh bio-geographic zone. The most iconic features of LRK are its mudflats covered in a layer of salt-crystal, rimmed by scrubland and the bets (islands). Relief to this sunbaked moonscape desert comes in the form of the southwest monsoons, which transforms it into a salty shallow lake interspersed with swathes of marsh swamps. This hastens the animals to higher ground for food and shelter in the isolated bets, which become a lifeline to the denizens of LRK as the soil here is less

salty and features coarse grassland and thorny shrubs with the coming of the rains.

INdIAN WILd Ass sANCTUARy: UNTRAmELLEd RUN OF THE RANN About 150km from Ahmedabad, this saline desert-cum-seasonal wetland, along with its stark wilderness spaces, is home to the globallyrenowned 4950 sq km Indian Wild Ass Sanctuary—the world’s last bastion of the now range-restricted, IUCN-identified endangered Asiatic wild ass (Equus heminous khur), locally known as gudkhur. Capable of outrunning a speeding jeep, the chestnut-and-white gudkhur can

speed up to 60-70 kmph. Established in 1973, the sanctuary had a total number of 4,085 wild asses according to figures released in 2015, compared to only 362 in 1963. This, however, by no means indicates the species is out of danger. The sanctuary is the best place for sightings of the elusive wild ass, which has the run of the Rann in all its glory.

Other denizens at the sanctuary include 33 species/subspecies of mammals, 93 species of invertebrates, 4 species of amphibians, 29 species of reptiles, 4 of insects, 12 of molluscs, 27 of spiders and 5 species of zooplanktons. The monsoon transforms LRK into a critical coastal wetland for the feeding, breeding and roosting of a large community of resident and migratory avifauna.

This tidal wetland is critical for the world’s biggest (known) breeding site of lesser flamingoes.

The gateways to the sanctuary are Dhrangadahra, Bajana and Adesar. Dhrangadhra has good accommodation and transport facilities. Book ahead in the season at the resorts for jeep safaris into the designated area of the LRK.

BIRDING BONANZAS

The incredibly diverse territories of Gujarat, illuminated by a fantastic range of ecosystems—including wetlands and desert, marine hotspots and marshy expanses, forested enclaves and pop-up islets, riverine tracts and rich grasslands—fall strategically along two traditional bird migration routes: one, from Central and North Asia to East Africa and the other from the Middle East and Europe to peninsular India.

Gujarat is rapidly emerging as an eco-tourism hotspot, and with a record 500+ species of avi-

fauna it is keen to capitalise on its attraction as a birding destination. Its maturing global importance as an avifaunal haven is evident from the well-attended Global Bird Watchers Conference to which it has been a warm and convivial host these past few years. This is an extremely important exercise for the state to up the ante on its conservation agenda. The conference has been attracting bird watchers, ornithologists, wildlife photographers, travel writers, tour operators, environmentalists and researchers to raise awareness about the birdwatching opportunities in this part of India. Among its most important conservation subjects are the Greater Flamingo, Lesser Flamingo, Dalmatian Pelican, Great White Pelican, Demoiselle Crane, Sarus Crane, Great Indian Bustard, Lesser Florican, Sociable Lapwing

and Stoliczka’s Bush Chat.

From October to March, birders are spoilt for choice as they marvel at the congregation of Gujarat’s avifaunal wealth (resident and migratory) in the marshlands and the bets, the seaboard and the scrublands rimming the mudflats. It’s not just the winter migratory groups that draw birders here. In the monsoon, the great grasslands (bheed) of Saurashtra, Kutch and Dahod become the nurseries of half the world’s population of the globally endangered Lesser Florican. Kutch is one of two remaining bastions in India of the endangered Great Indian Bustard. For the endangered Sarus Crane, Gujarat is the third most important state for saving the species from extinction.

While birders will discover rich pickings in Gujarat’s four national parks and 21

GETTY IMAGES

travel promotion wildlife sanctuaries, there are many more favoured spots for birding tours around the state.

LRK is a raucous birding haven—peaking in December and January.

LittLe Rann of Kutch (LRK)

MaRine nationaL PaRK (MnP)

LRK is a true birding haven with masses of resident and migratory species fighting for legroom in this rich avian habitat. It’s because of its unique geographical setting, being close to the Arabian Sea, Kutch falls on the crossroads of the Palearctic migration streams and attracts masses of migratory birds during the winter. Tantalising opportunities are offered by its salt flats surrounded by grassland and thorny scrub. In winter, the days are long, and the nights short, so birders make the most of their time here. Its bets interspersing the wintry expanse of salt-rimmed cracked mud and brackish waters, offer a unique habitat for thousands of nesting birds including the Indian and Spotted Sandgrouse, Desert and Pied Wheatears and over 10 species of lark. With luck and diligence you might even spot the near-threatened MacQueen’s Bustard. The marshy wetlands of the Little Rann are a huge draw for lesser flamingoes and pelicans. From November to March

This great expanse of 170km along the coast of Jamnagar in the Gulf of Kutch, including 42 islands, lies in the intertidal zone. Streams of avifauna pass through this site, especially during the migratory phase. The MNP is an important region as it borders the Little and Great Ranns, the country’s biggest breeding grounds for both species of flamingoes, the White Pelican and the Avocet.

GETTY IMAGES

GReateR Rann of Kutch (GRK) The GRK’s Banni Grasslands, featuring a large freshwater lake (part of the Chari-Dhand Wetland Conservation Reserve), are an important wintering habitat for the Common Crane. This great expanse forms one of the most important avifauna areas in India, featuring 11 threatened species, and nine nearthreatened ones. The Spotted Sandgrouse, a winter migrant to western India, is a rarity in Gujarat, but you might strike it lucky to get

sightings of flocks of them feeding here from mid-November till the end of February.

The Bhuj area has plentiful action in store for birders at the Naliya Grasslands, Lala Bustard Sanctuary and Chiyarsar Thorn Scrubland. A guided tour is best for rewarding experiences and GRK is best reached through Bhuj, the nearest airport, while Ahmedabad is the nearest airport for LRK.

Kutch DeseRt WiLDLife sanctuaRy This lovely wilderness space encompasses Flamingo City in the Rann of Kutch.

You can never get enough of those nesting Greater Flamingoes here. The bets here have their own attraction for avid birders. This sanctuary is the only known site in India where the Rosy Pelican has been found breeding. If it’s flamingoes you are chasing, definitely plan a trip to the Porbandar Bird Sanctuary as well.

naL saRovaR BiRD sanctuaRy An hour’s drive out of Ahmedabad brings you to this lovely birding habitat said to be

home to 2,50,000 birds, many of which winter in western India. The Nalsarovar Sanctuary, a Ramsar wetland, features a tranquil expanse of marshland and shallow waters dotted with over 30 islets. It’s the largest wetland bird sanctuary in Gujarat, and one of the largest in India. Look here for Rosy Pelicans, Lesser and Greater Flamingoes, and the like. November to February is great; migratory species appear around October and remain till April.

Gujarat Tourism also offers luxury tents for stays, if you want to do overnights here out of Ahmedabad. Another good place to head to

LittLe Rann of Kutch hoteLs Rann Riders An essential base for forays into the designated tourist areas of LRK, it has played host to thousands of guests over the years to provide rewarding experiences of the Rann and birding tours at Bajana Creek. It has 30 AC cottages, serves buffet meals and arranges jeeps and guides with advance notice. Dasada Village, Surendranagar, +91-9925236014, rannriders.com

is Thol Bird Sanctuary, Ahmedabad and the Vadhvana Wetlands near Vadodara.

Khijadiya Bird Sanctuary Located on the southern shoreline of the Gulf of Kutch, about 10 km from Jamnagar, Khijadiya is characterised by freshwater marshes and intertidal mudflats. This unique combination of seasonal freshwater wetland and coastal wetland ecosystems has been known to support over 200 species of birds. A regular visitor is the nearthreatened Black-necked Stork.

Desert Coursers Camp East of NH10, the resort has Kooba huts which though simple are air-conditioned and quite comfortable. Meals and safaris are included in the tariff. It can arrange camel safaris as well. Zainabad, Surendranagar, +91-9426372113, desertcoursers.net

+91-9825548090, littlerann.com

Bhavna Resort Located on the Patadi-Dasada Road, it has 26 Kooba huts and organises birding tours and jeep safaris.Dasada Road, Patdi, Surendranagar, +91-9427216059, bhavnafarm.com

Eco Tour Camp

Royal Safari Camp

Located in Dhrangadhra, it offers five Kooba huts and six tents by way of accommodation (close to the Sumera lake), along with buffet meals and safaris. Jogad village, Sumera Lake, Dhrangadhra,

Close to the sanctuary, it features 21 cottages, a restaurant and the tariff includes one safari. Bajana, +91-9879005653, theroyalsafaricamp.com

cover story goa

the gift of

goa

There’s always someThing new and offbeaT under The goan sun.

Manek S. kohli unearThs liTTleknown gems, new sTars on The firmamenT and old favouriTes updaTed. phoTographs by Puneet k. Paliwal

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outlook traveller • december 2017

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goa

Art & Artivism

Clockwise from here: a part of the exhibition at Sunaparanta spills into Café Al Fresco; 6 Assagao’s People Tree has a colourful display; and the sculptures and paintings of ‘She’ at The Cube Gallery

Sunaparanta—Goa Centre for the artS

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n Panaji’s hilly and upscale Altinho neighbourhood, a sprawling purple villa houses Sunaparanta—Goa Centre for the Arts. The cultural centre for a non-profit arts initiative by industrialist Dattaraj V. Salgaocar, it is, on most days, home to an exhibition and buzzing with all kinds of art-related programmes. Enter its space to find lush lawns, an open-air amphitheatre, exhibition rooms and a café space known as ‘Café Al Fresco’ that houses Café Bodega.

Till January 2, 2018, screenwriter Sooni Taraporevala’s latest exhibition, Home in the City, is on display at Sunaparanta.

Curated by the centre’s honorary director and curator Siddharth Dhanvant Shanghvi, it presents 102 iconic blackand-white photographs of Mumbai and

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outlook traveller • december 2017

its people shot by the screenwriter over four decades. Find diverse kinds of people, locations and moods across the collection and observe how the city has evolved from Bombay to Mumbai.

Café Bodega has been a part of Sunaparanta for about five years now. Chef Vandana Naik presents European and American café food using the freshest of ingredients in a relaxed al fresco setting.

Here, the eggs benedict and the Turkish poached eggs (with Greek-style scallion yoghurt, smoked chilli butter and Goan poi bread) make for breakfast brilliance.

At Sunaparanta, there are screenings of Hollywood classics, arthouse films and documentaries in the amphitheatre as part of the ‘Film for Thought’ initiative. There’s also the ‘In Stages’ theatre workshop and the ‘Mango Tree After-School Art Programme’, among other things. On January 18, you can also attend the next

edition of Sunaparanta’s annual arts festival, Sensorium, where seven of India’s best galleries will present their top artists.

It’s a humble festival with a focus on keeping things ‘small but serious’. +91-8322421311; sgcfa.org

6 aSSaGao

F

rom the outside, Cursino Villa in North Goa’s Assagao village seems inconspicuous and quiet. But step inside and find the 6 Assagao collective, which includes a sustainable fashion and design store, a socially responsible South Indian restaurant and, interestingly, a venue for talks and performances that helps fuel a movement for art, activism and creative thought in Goa. The colourful design store is called People Tree, co-founded by graphic artist Orijit Sen. It first opened up in Delhi,

and then five years ago in Goa. It retails handmade products, supports lesser known artists and local artisans, and has many NGOs supply to it.

On most days, find Nilankur Das here, whose wife is People Tree Goa’s manager. He calls himself, and rightly so, an artivist—combining art with activism.

He heads Thus. (with the full stop), an organisation that aims to encourage critical thought and inquiry. And how does 6 Assagao tie in with his work?

Turns out, it is the main venue for many of his events—such as film screenings, book launches, talk shows and concept workshops. Almost every Monday, Nilankur manages to present something exciting, as well as attract a sizeable crowd.

Past speakers include Seth Tobocman, the political cartoonist who played an important role in the Occupy Wall Street movement, and graphic novelist Amruta

Patil. Next in line is a performance by composer Santanu Dutta, entitled ‘Five centuries of Spanish Guitar music’ (December 11, 7-10pm). As with all of Nilankur’s events, entry will be free, and homemade Northeastern food and beverages will be served. +91-832-2268228; facebook.com/6Assagao

The Cube Gallery

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he Cube Gallery, located in North Goa’s Moira village, is certainly built to attract eyeballs. Named after its Rubik’s Cube-inspired façade, the gallery is the brainchild of artist, architect and experimental animator Sonny Singh.

The place combines all art forms—be it traditional, conceptual or performance— to create unique exhibitions. Recently, they concluded their first show for the season, ‘She’, that had eight Goa-based

women artists use various art styles and media to depict femininity.

This season (October-April, when Cube remains open), Sonny and curator Samira Sheth have planned four shows— the second of which began very recently.

Called ‘Outsiders’, it is along the lines of their newest theme, ‘the marginalised’, and focusses on artists who aren’t native to Goa. On till January 6, it presents artwork from four artists, including a unique musical instrument from sculptor Thomas Louis that requires participation from several people to create music.

These shows do not merely include artwork, but also a performance art show and a book launch (Manu Joseph’s Miss Laila, Armed & Dangerous for ‘Outsiders’), among other things. The space also has a café and product store facilities. +91-9422806748; facebook.com/The-CubeGallery-1432555190362271 outlook traveller • december 2017

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excursions ethical dolphin watching

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here are terrible things happening to humpback dolphins in Goa—over 320 dolphin-watching boats operate from four cluttered jetties at Sinquerim Bay, and compete to have tourists spot as many of the sea mammals as possible. To achieve that, they end up chasing the dolphins to the point of exhaustion, causing them distress, disrupting their movement patterns, and even threatening their lives in the process. Thank god, therefore, for responsible marine tourism initiative, Terra Conscious, which provides an ethical dolphin watching experience (`2,500 per adult, taxes extra).

You reach Villa Blanche Bistro in Assagao village at 8am, where co-founder Puja Mitra gives a brief, before heading out to Chapora jetty in North Goa. Here, Terra Conscious has tied up with local boat operators for the dolphin experience.

Meet the operator at the bay who, along with Puja, will take participants out in his motorboat to spend the next two hours

Puja Mitra (front left) and team Terra Conscious pose with Mojo, their stuffed ambassador; and (above) Chorao Island awaits cyclists, a ferry ride later 52

outlook traveller • DeCeMBer 2017

seeking dolphins by Morjim and Ashwem beaches. Terra Conscious functions under international dolphin-watching guidelines, which means maintaining a safe distance from dolphin pods, staying parallel to moving dolphins, and switching off the engine at a sighting, which happens more often than not. Also, if you’re lucky, the tide will be low enough on the way back for the boat to stop by an island on the backwaters. Get off to spot birds like kites and egrets, and even a jellyfish or two. +91-8308600699, +91-7741872621; terraconscious.com

cycling

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an there be a better way to experience a place as picturesque as Goa than cycling across it? Rohan Nagarkar, the co-founder of cycle rental startup CyclingZens, would answer that question in the negative. He began the initiative after he recognised that there was a great demand for tourist cycles, but no one to bridge it. Today, he also conducts some exciting cycling tours.

One such recommended excursion is across Chorao Island in Panaji, which takes place every Sunday (approx. 30km/`1,200 per rider). Begin at 7am, riding one of Rohan’s customised electrical bikes from Socorro town, and after an 8km ride, reach the Pomburpa ferry, from where you arrive at idyllic Chorao. The island is interspersed with old villages and sightings of rare birds at the Salim Ali Bird Sanctuary. Along the journey, find a balance of uphill and downhill rides and observe the vegetation shifting between dense hilly forest and grassy flatland. Also, if you’re lucky, spot a crocodile at one of the larger waterbodies. +91-9892217936; cyclingzens.com

hotels & homestays Le Méridien Goa, CaLanGute

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tep inside this new Le Méridien, located in lively Calangute in North Goa, to find a mid-century modern and chic interior, but with elements of Goan culture interspersed everywhere from décor to food. An artwork, Embarked

by The Port, in canvas, is right above the entrance area, and depicts an abstract map of Goa that shows the arrival of the Portuguese naval fleet. The spacious lobby is decked in purple and beige, and decorated with artwork that borrows from Goa’s lesser-known history—that of the first settlers, the Kunbi tribe. There is one inspired by their tools, and others that showcase the chequered patterns that embellish their saris and turbans.

Interior designer Pratiksha Tayal has curated all of this.

Longitude 73, Le Méridien’s signature bar, is all about coffee and éclairs by day, and sparkling wine and other tempting spirits in the evening. The éclair—which is an elongated cream-filled French choux pastry—that stands out most here is the mango and cashew feni flavoured one,

sprinkled with yellow chocolate and garnished with whipped cream. Wash it down with one of their Illy coffees. As for the sparkling wine cocktails, Kokum Blush, made with an in-house kokum jam, presents the best balance.

Le Méridien’s signature all-day dining restaurant, Latest Recipe, comes in both, an indoor and an al fresco setting. Let executive sous chef Vamsi Krishna guide you through a menu ranging from the Goan favourite rava fried prawn to the authentic Indonesian fried rice dish, nasi goreng. At breakfast, have sous chef Jaskaran Gujral cook you the signature breakfast that includes Goan favourite ros omelette (with xacuti gravy and poi bread) and bebinca tatin (with tender coconut ice cream). At Jazz & Grills find a classy jazz bar décor, a whiskey bar with over 40 labels, and grills and steaks to complement your drinks. Water babies, on the other hand, visit the pool and the accompanying Plunge Bar. But what really stands out is the Library Lounge, filled with books of all genres, neat purple décor, a series of wall-hung portraits of the ruins of Goa’s iconic Church of St Augustine, and a selection of bites to go with your reading session.

And then there are the subtleties— at meeting space Reis Magos, find a chessboard with pawns the size of puppies—which plays on the idea of coupling work and fun—while the rooms, besides being spacious and cosy, do not allow smoking even in the balconies, so that a fresh atmosphere is maintained.

The hotel has 146 rooms and suites; tariffs from approx. `12,250 doubles, taxes extra; starwoodhotels.com

Clockwise from top left: the Library Lounge, a place of calm; the inviting pool; view of a chapel by the palms from Le Méridien’s roof; and delicious fish served at Latest Recipe outlook traveller • DeCeMBer 2017

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Fort tiracol Heritage Hotel

D

rive north in Goa, along a path that gets progressively more scenic, till you arrive at the Terekhol ferry terminal near Querim or Keri beach. From here, take a short ride across the sea to discover Goa’s northernmost gem, the hillside 17thcentury Fort Tiracol, which has a church within its campus and a rich history.

It is, you’ll discover, anything but a regular fort. Near Keri village and a part of the majorly catholic Tiracol village, it now stands rechristened as the Fort Tiracol Heritage Hotel, run by Sanya Resorts and Hospitality under the leadership of general manager Rainer Stoll, whose staff is mostly from either Keri or Tiracol.

After all, the boutique hotel’s concept is to promote the fort and the history and culture surrounding it, as well as encourage local participation.

In terms of making an impact, the hotel does have some big shoes to fill, given its history: it was first held by the

Vintage-themed rooms fit well, thematically, with Fort Tiracol; and (above) the entrance 54 outlook traveller • SePteMBer 2014 to ‘Friday’

Bhonsles of Sawantwadi, and then the Portuguese. Post Goa’s liberation in December 1961, it fell into disuse, before the tourism department converted it into a hotel. Many renovations and transfers of ownership later, it finally reached Rainer.

And, since then, Fort Tiracol has felt very fresh. By the entrance lies Garden Café, overlooking the sea. Here you can order quick bites such as crumb-fried fish (with mustard paste and chopped parsley) or a crispy calamari (squid) with mayo garlic sauce.

Walk indoors to find a courtyard with a centuries-old church dedicated to the Portuguese priest, Saint Anthony. On its left find the living spaces, which include the fashionably decorated seven deluxe rooms and luxury suites, named after the days of the week.

Take the stairs to reach the Portuguese tavern-themed restaurant, aptly named The Tavern, with its dual outdoor and indoor seating, and purple walls. An evening here is quiet, intimate and spruced up with delicacies such as the

chicken roulade (stuffed with walnut and mustard) and the standout—a fish fillet with a chorizo crust, spinach, tomato purée and a red wine reduction.

A visit to the hotel is incomplete without two experiences—a village walk with local resident Agnelo Godinho, and a boat ride with fisherman Shishir. Go with Agnelo around the small village and observe its many traditional homes, but let your highlight be the view of the seaside rocks, right beneath the cliffs, from Goldsmith caves behind Tiracol Fort.

Tariff `9,500-12,000 doubles, taxes extra; forttiracol.in

mateus

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ontainhas, which is Goa’s oldest Latin quarter and a relic of Portuguese rule, was always a fond visit for hotelier Antonio Fernandes and his children.

The family would stroll by its narrow alleyways and admire the colonial architecture it presented right in in the heart of Goa’s capital, Panaji.

In mid 2015, Antonio was down here when he learned of the availability of a dilapidated, but sizeable, 1879 villa for purchase. The idea immediately caught his fancy, so he bought it, wishing to convert it into a boutique homestay, while preserving its original Portuguese design as much as possible. This set the foundation for Mateus Goa. Antonio’s son, New York-based architect Jonathan Fernandes, came on board, along with interior designer Isla Maria ‘Loulou’ van Damme, who is known for her kitschy and quirky style. Together, they breathed life into Mateus, which Jonathan named after his grandfather.

It has a mango-hued exterior, complete with European-style arched windows, and the original Burmese teakwood door that leads into the lobby. Here, there is an over century-old rosewood dining table surrounded by old portraits and vintage décor.

The dining area has the original tiles, which inspired Loulou to opt for an

Clockwise from top left: one of the firstfloor rooms, done in blue-and-beige furnishing; a sunkissed breakfast; and a cosy sit-out

ensemble of heritage-themed tiles for the rest of the house. These are used in different combinations across the house—especially the rooms—to create unique colour schemes. Also, she curated, with military precision, Antonio’s vast collection of antique décor and furniture items for the house.

From the outside, it is difficult to believe that Mateus houses guestrooms with attached bathrooms within two floors, but Jonathan ensured it did so without sacrificing aesthetics.

Now a year old, the homestay is stocked with all amenities and facilities of a

modern lodging—wi-fi, hot water shower, a spacious sitting area on the first floor, a kitchen with daily breakfast service and on-request meal service, a plunge pool, televisions, a kettle and microwave in the kitchen, etc.

And, as Antonio envisioned, a stay at the Mateus Goa does reflect a strong sense of calm and homeliness—wake up early in the morning and enjoy a breakfast of juice, fruit and the chef’s special Spanish omelette with Goan poi bread.

Or sunbathe in the courtyard, sitting by a century-old well. Tariff from `5,000 doubles, taxes included; mateusgoa.com outlook traveller • DeCeMBer 2017

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RestauRants Left to right: Anisha Hassan (left) and Siddharth, who manages Saligao Stories; chorizo dip on onion biscuits, a sumptuous starter; and the interior, frozen in time

Saligao StorieS

The mango-and-cream coloured villa, Arshekaniche Ghor (Konkani for glass house) is located in North Goa’s Saligao village and has an antique-style décor consisting of Catholic and Portuguese paraphernalia, vintage furnishings, as well as family heirlooms.

At Saligao Stories, every dish comes with its own story. Among Goan fare, the zesty ‘pickled chicken’ is right from Anisha’s home kitchen. Then there’s her grandma’s chicken vindaloo, uniquely garnished with coconut strips. Among the Hyderabadi

tierra y Mar

ierra y Mar translates from Spanish to ‘Land and Sea’. And for its chef Benpramar Laitflang, who had lived most of his life inland before moving to seafront Goa, this naming of this innovative Spanish and Latin American-inspired restaurant reflects this journey. Located at the quiet Sangolda village in North Goa, he co-runs it with former footballer Nishant Mehra.

Enter its venue, known as ‘House No. 248’, to find a collective of artistic spaces—a few shack-like huts house a workshop space, a lifestyle boutique store, and, of course, Tierra y Mar with its casual fairy lights-lit al-fresco interior. A young crew comprising chefs Maia and Sanchit assist Ben with the restaurant operations and the

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hen Anisha Hassan’s Hyderabadi father and Goan mother got married, they also wedded recipes from two rich Indian culinary traditions. This way, Anisha got the best of both worlds, as well as plenty of tales surrounding her food. And with her new restaurant, Saligao Stories, she simply presents ‘a collection of what is made at home’.

And what better venue to do that than her decades-old ancestral home?

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The rustic shack-like setting 56

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fare, ‘The Hyderabadi Story’ platter includes the light kache ghosht ki biryani, a dum ka murg, a nalli gosht, a mirchi ka salan and a special ‘mutton chutney’ (which Anisha’s mother created by accident). Also go for the succulent mutton stew, haleem.

Among desserts, the Portuguese serradura (condensed milk with cream and Marie biscuit) is indulgent, and in cocktails, the ‘Tranquility’ interestingly combines cachaça (a spirit made from fermented sugarcane juice) with cranberry juice. +91-8554833889; saligaostories.com ever-changing menu, while Abhik churns out some interesting cocktails.

Tierra’s concept is to use fresh ingredients to make some surprisingly simple, but very delicious dishes, reflective of a cuisine quite unexploited in India.

Among starters, go for tacos de la lengua (beef tongue with charred jalapeño salsa verde, pico de gallo, and sour cream), prawn and avocado ceviche (with cucumber, lime, chilli, coriander and mint) and, for mains, the ricotta and Parmesan dumplings (served with greens in a clean broth). For cocktails, the whiskey sour, and the orange cinnamon martini should be tried. +91-9819443210; facebook.com/ Tierra.y.Mar.Goa

soi

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hat is a visit to Goa without indulging in some of its authentic fare? At Soi (which in Konkani means grated coconut), that recently opened its newest branch in Panaji’s Dona Paula, enjoy delicacies from both Saraswat and Catholic Goan food in a vibrant, semi-formal setting. Run by Anushka Adwalpalker, whose family operates many restaurants and nightclubs across Goa, the most striking feature of the décor is the colourful panoramic wall mural done by artist Gaurabh Quenim.

It takes up the whole wall and highlights aspects of Goan life—fisherwomen, instruments such as the trumpet and the ukulele, the old buses and the traditional boats.

The rest of the décor is similarly done in Goan flavour—find ceramic

The Lazy Goose

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s children growing up in Goa, siblings Praveena and Rohan D’Souza would frequent the idyllic Nerul river—known for its backwaters setting and lush mangroves—near North Goa’s Candolim town and enjoy a meal by the erstwhile Amigos shack, which was located right below the Nerul Bridge. Years later, the duo, joined by restaurateur Hitesh Keswani, externalises their childhood memories by presenting the Goan, seafood and continental restaurant, The Lazy

jars or the buyaon in which pickles are traditionally stored, garrafões or glass containers in which feni would be matured, Portuguese ceramic plates and an old hunting gun. All these lend great character to the place.

And then, begin with the feastings. An easy start is the light and traditionally Portuguese caldo verde (soup with mashed potato and spinach). Among appetisers, the chorizo pulao (Goan chorizo sausages tossed and served with basmati rice), rawa-fried Goan pork chops (marinated with red chilli and vinegar, and served with mashed potatoes) and the stuffed squid (in recheado masala) are three very different, yet innately Goan options—such that they display the variety a single cuisine presents. In the main course, Saraswat options such as the crab sukhem (cooked in whole spices and grated coconut), the

tisreo sukhem (clams in garam masala) and the sol kadi (a drink made of kokum, coconut milk and spices) nicely sum up this food exploration. Oh, and the cocktail of choice is the ‘fenito’, which is a mojito that combines pineapple, mango and feni to create something spectacular. +91-8308849516; facebook.com/SoiGoa

Goose, at the same location as Amigos.

The place, which opened up as recently as November 6, 2017, has a boating-inspired tropical-themed décor, excellent live music and an infectious joie de vivre vibe. Vibrant colours dot its open-air casual seating, and the custom-made paddleboards hung on the walls and a real boat hung upside down from the ceiling further build on the theme.

Also, as it turns out, The Lazy Goose has retained Amigos’ authentic Goan fare in its menu, as shack-owner Sabita continues to cook from her home behind the restaurant.

The rest of the menu comprises offbeat, but

flavourful dishes. Before anything else, try the signature mud crabs, freshly caught, available in butter chilly garlic, recheado or pepper preparations. Among starters, the clams steamed Asian style (in a broth with lemongrass, chilli and coriander) stand out and, in the main course, the cauliflower, cheddar cheese and vegetable baked cannelloni. As for the cocktails, signatures such as Boat Face (gin and passionfruit with kaffir lime) and Bikini Blast (watermelon infused with tequila and fresh pineapple) are quite refreshing. +917775958419; facebook.com/thelazygoose

The food at Soi is a crash course in delicious Goan cuisine

Left to right: chef Rohan D’Souza is the man behind the menu; the crowd waltzing to the musicians’ ways; and river prawn al ajillo, a starter outlook traveller • DeCeMBer 2017

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the nightlife trail

Showbar amid its Saturday vibe; and (below) at The BIG TAP, people start to dance early in the night, courtesy Syndicate

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iven the sheer number of gastropubs, nightclubs and restaurants in Goa, it is not always easy to pick your place(s) to party. And, of course, you have to be at the right place at the right time, and on the right day. But fret not—here’s a specially curated tried-and-tested nightlife trail that’ll surely keep you in high spirits all through the night.

First, reach the new restaurant and pub, The BIG TAP (+91-9130042325;

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facebook.com/ thebigtapgoa) in North Goa’s Baga, between 9pm and 10pm on a Saturday evening to dance to the retro tunes of Goa’s favourite western band, Syndicate. The colossal open-air interior has a lively bar, a casual rustic décor and a menu consisting of Indian and international fare.

Enjoy the entrancing fire and neon light bartending tricks that follow the band’s performance. For drinks, ask the bartender to make you some of their special cocktails. They do a fine Black Diva (bourbon with coffee liqueur, cola and ginger), Bacardi Spice Bomb (rum with cinnamon, black pepper and mango) and classics such as Paradise and the Dry Martini.

By 12–12.30am, be ready to move on to

the next venue. Not too far is Candolim’s Showbar (+91-8805002432; facebook. com/showbargoa). Arrive here to find an exterior reminiscent of old cinema houses and an interior done with a retro Bollywood theme. Since it is Saturday, shake a leg to the tunes of the rock band.

And, by now, do get some food in your system. Luckily, at Showbar, the grub is quite delectable. Go for the sumptuous ‘cheezy’ pav bhaji fondue (served with butter croutons) and burnt garlic chilli basil beef titbits (stir-fried beef cooked in an oriental style).

By 2am, step things up another notch by going back to Baga and hitting the dance floor at Cape Town Café (+919923325638; capetowncafe.com). This popular nightclub has recently been renovated to break the monotony of the old décor and adopt a more gothic look, filled with many paintings and bright lights. Let us know if you weren’t out dancing here till 4am.

GOA

feni tasting

The animated Mac Vaz (left) and his brother, Cedric Vaz, who handles operations at the Madame Rosa Distillery

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cclaimed cartoonist, the late Mario Miranda, once described Goa as a ‘Land of feni and harmony’ to Mac Vaz, who runs, with his family, the Madame Rosa Distillery, which is one of the state’s more prominent distillers of the spirit.

And Goa is, indeed, proud of its cashew or toddy palm-based liquor. But no one is prouder than Mac, and why wouldn’t he be? His family has produced feni since 1933, and boasts in its inventory brands such as the widely available ‘Big Boss’ and the unique charcoal-filtered and oak cask-matured label, ‘Lembranca’.

And, in true alignment with the finesse and high spiritedness common to both

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him and the drink, Mac Vaz and his brother, Cedric Vaz, have been hosting feni-tasting sessions at venues such as the beachfront Park Hyatt Goa Resort and Spa, which is located in Cansaulim in South Goa. The event is a lively affair, though it is the wonderful emceeing

by Jeffrey Manuel, who Mac calls the world’s ‘first fenilier’, that takes the cake. His aura is infectious as he goes around decked in a suit and engages with everyone participating in the tasting, and even strums a ukulele—for which participants are provided a shaker to join in the beat—to some classic Goan music. He also introduces people to feni,

its distillation process, and its important role as part of Goan culture.

Once the tasting gets underway, prepare to experience feni at different levels of the distillation process in one evening. Begin with urak, which is low in alcohol content and not too fine, but still has quite a following. Then sip the Big Boss feni, served first neat and then in a cocktail, followed by the aged Lembrance, and, finally, the very prestigious 2012 ‘Valpoi Estate Exclusive Edition’ label, which is opened after being aged for five years in port oak casks. The drinks become progressively darker in colour and more complex in flavour, and certainly more enriching.

Also, to keep things from getting too heady, snacks are served as well. And as you go through the process, make sure to take notes in a feni tasting sheet.

Also, it’s a bonus if you’re around Goa during the cashew feni harvesting season—between March and May— because Madame Rosa Distillery, in collaboration with Park Hyatt, organises the Annual Cashew Trail spread over seven to nine days. Parts of it are feni appreciation sessions, visits to cashew apple farms, spa experiences and many unique and interactive events. +91-9823029032 (Mac Vaz)

ExpEriEncE UltimatE

Destinations, fooD anD more in 2018 With the neW year on the threshold, it’s time to celebrate like never before. let’s embark on a one-of-its-kind journey this christmas and neW year. outlook traveller in its 200th issue presents a special feature on the amazing places that one needs to experience in the coming holiday season.

Exclusive Dining Experiences

Signature Indian Restaurant

Iconic Italian Gourmet Experience

Offering a quintessential, bespoke dining experience to usher in your festive celebrations throughout the magical December month. Let our Masterchefs pamper you and your special ones by laying down a private, intimate and exclusive celebratory fare. With an exceptional service, lavish, tailor-made menu options paired with exotic wines, chic, stylish interiors, your affair will surely come to life. Choose MEGU for modern Japanese cuisine or Le Cirque, synonymous with uber stylish dining or dine like a true royalty relishing flavors from the royal kitchens at Jamavar's Maharaja Table and have your personal experience etched in time.

For more information and to reserve your exclusive experience contact us on + 91 11 39331234 or email us at fnbservice.newdelhi@theleela.com Prior Reservation is recommended.

Grand Party to Welcome '2018'

Experience the magical charm of our picturesque alfresco spaces as you raise a toast to the New Year with your friends and family in the backdrop of our dazzling environs. Groove to the eclectic live band immersing yourself in the chic ambience while basking in the warmth of our special sigris. Welcome 2018 with the choicest collection of spirits, tempting exotic fare, foot tapping tracks and a stunning vista to serenade you into a fabulous new year.

For more information and to reserve your exclusive experience contact us on + 91 11 39331234 or email us at fnbservice.newdelhi@theleela.com Prior Reservation is recommended.

travel promotion

laidbaCk

Charm

HYATT PLACE GOA CANDOLIM WITH frIENDLY sErvICE AND A HYPEr-LOCAL vIbE, THIs HOTEL Is ALWAYs LOOkING fOr WAYs TO ENHANCE GuEsTs’ ExPErIENCEs

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andolim is one of North Goa’s best beaches. It’s quiet and clean, its blue waters are ideal for swimming and watersports, and the majestic church is a sight for sore eyes. The nightlife is electrifying at the waterfront shacks and watering holes.

Capitalising on Candolim’s seaside charms is one of the nicest hotels from the Hyatt chain. Hyatt Place Goa Candolim has a smart-casual and friendly ambience, and staff have played a pivotal role in attracting a stream of “multi-blenders with 24/7 lifestyles seeking an up-scale select-service hotel that will allow them to balance work and play’, for which the brand was created quite specifically.

Here in Goa, Hyatt Place Goa Candolim

in Bardez exudes the laidback charm of the seaside, yet its professional demeanour remains well in place. Located just a few minutes walking distance from Calangute and Baga beaches, this stylish, energetic and modern hotel welcomes guests with seamless services manned from the central hub of The Gallery, which incorporates the check-in desk, the 24/7 Gallery Cafe, a 24/7 Gallery Market and the Coffee to Cocktails Bar. Guests have a choice of 144 guestrooms in 4 categories: Pool View and Garden View, in King and Twin Rooms; Speciality Pool View Rooms; and a Suite. Highlights are their plush Hyatt Grand Beds, and the Cozy Corner sofa sleeper. Wi-Fi is free.

Food is pivotal to the guest experience at

Hyatt Place Goa Candolim, and the focus is on serving freshly made fare. The 24/7 Gallery Cafe, a multi-cuisine restaurant, also offers delicious Goan fare along with other comfort food favourites. An added convenience for rushed guests is the 24/7 Gallery Market stocked with packaged foods that can be had on the go. The Coffee to Cocktails Bar and the Pool Side Bar offer kebabs, soups and salads apart from innovative cocktails.

The InformaTIon

Location Anna Waddo, Main Candolim Rd, Bardez, Goa 403515. 60min from Dabolim airport and 35min from Thivim Railway Station Contact +91-8327161234, goacandolim.place.hyatt.com

Goa/Candolim

a perfect getaway - YOU’LL KNOW IT WHEN YOU SEE IT!

BOOK

your stay AT GOACANDOLIM.PLACE.HYATT.COM Hyatt Place Goa/Candolim, Anna Waddo, Main Candolim Road, Bardez. Goa. T: +91 832-7161234 E: goacandolim.place@hyatt.com

TRAVEL PROMOTION

Birding Haven BeinG india’s onLy Beach and riverside Luxury resorT, LeeLa Goa deLiGhTs you wiTh iT’s naTuraL seTTinG

The LeeLa, Goa

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ay back in 2013, the Leela, Goa was chosen as the winner of the ‘Best Environmental Practice Competition’ organised by the Environment Ministry (GOI). Two years later, the Leela’s inhouse horticulturist, Mario Misquita’s magical green fingers helped him walk away with the ‘Green Hotelier of the Year’ award in the fiercely competed Hotelier India Awards 2015.

What is pretty evident about this lovely Goan property is that the showcasing of nature and best environmental practices are pivotal to the hotel’s USP and charm.

Say “Goa” and immediately the mind summons up delicious visions of sunny days, glorious beaches, inviting ocean waters and rich verdure. So, while the Leela, Goa has fully capitalised on its beach town allurements, it’s got other thrills in store for nature enthusiasts—among them the delights of encounters with its avifaunal denizens.

There’s an interesting tale behind the Leela’s connect with these feathered residents and their migratory kin. At the time of the hotel’s construction, its lagoons were the habitat of the young of some migratory species which had flown back home, leaving them behind to fend for themselves, as they wouldn’t survive the long journey. At this point the hotel management decided to step in and adopt these fledgling wards by creating a lovely habitat for them by adding several new features to the resort—small nesting islands, fish in the waters and a variety of fruit-bearing and seedproducing trees. And how they have multiplied! So exciting for management, and for their lucky guests who can spend hours enjoying the in-house bird sanctuary, right here in South Goa’s Mobor beach. The Leela Goa was proud to host 11 world leaders at the first ever BRICS – BIMSTEC joint Summit held in 2016.

Located just an hour away from Dabolim airport, the Leela, Goa is a sanctuary of rich verdure, tranquil lagoons and avifaunal delights. This gorgeous 206-key luxury resort showcases the architectural narratives of Portugal and India at their very best.

Guests can also enjoy in-house leisure time in its state-of-the art spa and the 12-hole, par-three executive golf course. Meals are special affairs here with several restaurants catering to the whims of the palate…be it Goan specialities, Italian enticements or hearty North Indian culinary options.

The InformaTIon The Leela, Goa Mobor, Cavelossim Goa – 403731, India To book call 1800 122 1234 Tel: (+91 832) 662 1234, Fax: (+91 832) 287 1352, E-mail: reservations.goa@theleela.com, Website: www.theleela.com

TRAVEL PROMOTION

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Juniper Tales of a Gin enjoy A relAxed Atmosphere with the ArtisAns of gin offering you A wide rAnge of All-dAy drinks And A diverse selection of stylized gin And tonic infusions

AndAz delhi

ave you encountered a state-of-the-art property that raises the bar of excellence?

Juniper at Andaz Delhi offers a highly personalized, yet stylish oasis set between the bustling metropolis’ of Delhi and Gurgaon.

Reflecting the unique culture of Delhi and operated by a friendly and attentive staff, it’s the first artisanal gin bar in the city offering an amazing line up of gin based cocktails with wide variety of 35 stylized gin, all revolving around the botanical and medicinal history of juniper.

Delight in a range of handcrafted cocktails inspired by the legacy of gin and taste the classic craftsmanship through the use of pure ingredients such as hand-picked herbs, fresh juices and carefully distilled liquors, complemented by the creativity and originality of the mixologists. In addition to the diverse selection gin, Juniper have also created its own version of Delhi Sapphire. The whole idea of is to create something that relates to Delhi at the same time has a lot of style in it. Delhi Sapphire is more than just a gin, it’s a conversation starter with its playful take on the friendly rivalry between India’s two biggest cities – Mumbai & Delhi. The suspended lighting feature has been designed to hand in a void that visually connects the Bar with the Studios.

Global in scale while local in perspective, Juniper has won the Best New Bars in India Award from GQ India and Best Bar of the Year from Spirits Achievers Award in 2017.

It is a perfect place providing a barrier free environment to socialize and entertain friends and colleagues. It’s a treat for the people who are always on the lookout for new trendy places to hang out. Give your vocal chords a workout at Juniper.

The InformaTIon ANDAZ DELHI // AEROCITY // NEW DELHI-110037 To book call 1800 122 1234 Email: delhi.andaz@hyatt.com, Website: andaz.com.

PEOPLE

INTERESTING

ARE DRAWN TO INTERESTING PLACES

TIMELESS ANDAZ

Experience a seamless stay interwoven with the local culture at Andaz Delhi, a luxury lifestyle hotel by Hyatt.

From unique artistic expressions reflecting reasons to fall in love with Delhi to Immerse yourself in visual narratives that tell the story of Delhi through an unscripted and a barrier free environment, Andaz Delhi offers an affair with evolving art pieces. Ignite your imagination over an inspiring stay at theAndaz city that you will always remember.

Delhi, the new luxury lifestyle hotel by Hyatt.

TO BOOK CALL 1800 233 1234 OR VISIT ANDAZDELHI.COM DELHI1800 // AEROCITY NEW DELHI-37 // INDIA TO ANDAZ BOOK CALL 122 1234//OR VISIT ANDAZDELHI.COM

ANDAZ DELHI // AEROCITY // NEW DELHI-110037

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TRAVEL PROMOTION

crowne plAzA greAter noidA-

An iconic lAndmArk surpAssing All expectAtions Crowne Plaza Greater noida is a luxurious five-star ProPerty loCated on the sPrawlinG ambianCe. the Courteous staff here treats the Guests with traditional indian hosPitality whether it is ConCerned with sCrumPtious food items or orGanizinG a PerfeCt event.

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ocated in Greater Noida, the planned city of the National Capital Region of Delhi, Crowne Plaza Greater Noida boasts of being more than just a hotel. Complete with an upcoming shopping arcade, corporate office spaces and a standalone convention center, this hotel is ‘your preferred international hotel brand for business, events and celebrations.’

With the most versatile meeting spaces, including indoor and outdoor options, our largest hall can accommodate up to 2,000 guests. Choose this ideal venue to host your events.

Complete with an upcoming shopping arcade, corporate office spaces and a standalone convention center, this hotel is ‘your preferred international hotel brand for business, events and celebrations.

Set amidst serene water bodies, the hotel features 395 ergonomically designed rooms, an in-house Hibiscus Spa and a beautiful outdoor pool. We also offer you a varied dining experience every day. You’ll find Italian and Chinese food at ChaoBella; global cuisine at Mosaic; Indian specialties at Spice Art; the best spirited concoctions at Connexions Bar; and the Belgian Beer Cafe, the first of its kind in India, for some fantastic brews and Belgian specialties.

Jewel of Crowne plaza Greater noida – MosaiC Mosaic is a fine dine restaurant which serves Chinese, Continental, North Indian. The restaurant provides the option of buffet as well as la carte. The décor has a very class touch with comfortable sofas used as furniture . Mosaic has

used mixture of brown and skin color for its furniture and décor. The cost for two people is 3500 GastronoMiC oasis in the heart of noidaChao Bella A perfect blend of style and sophistication Chao Bella is a Chinese specialty restaurant situated on the lobby floor at Crowne Plaza Greater Noida. Contemporary booth seating, this spacious place is done up with interiors in tones of red and golden which makes it a perfect place to enjoy a hearty lunch/dinner. Average cost for 2 at Chao Bella is 2,500 INR plus taxes. one of its kind in india- BelGian Beer Cafe Belgian Beer Cafe has strictly been modelled along the lines of a rural Belgian beer bar. You’ll see a predominance of dark wood, large glass windows and lots of elements, such as the clock which is forever stuck on 11.55pm. The significance of this phenomena is beer bars in Belgium typically shut at midnight so they’re saying you always have those extra five minutes for that one last beer. They serve Belgian, North Indian, Finger Food. The approx. cost for two people is 1500.

Surajpur Chowk,Institutional Green, Greater Noida, Uttar Pradesh, Greater Noida, 201306, India To book call us at 91-120-6734880/ 4879, Email: reservations@cpgreaternoida.com, Website: www.crowneplaza.com/cpgreaternoida

exClusive new Year paCkaGe for two at 14999 ai * * * * * * * *

Stay for Two in Deluxe Room.

Complimentary Wi-Fi and Health Club Access.

Lavish Buffet Dinner Spread.

Unlimited International and Indian Drinks at Liquid Buffet.

Access for Two at Celebrity DJ’s floor.

Next Day Breakfast for two at All Day Diner.

20% discount on F&B, Spa and Laundry.

Stay free for Kids up to 8 years with free access to Kids Area.

TRAVEL PROMOTION

The LeeLa ambience convenTion hoTeL, DeLhi: India’s Largest Luxury Convention Hotel

Peaceful luxury from the hustle of the caPital with best in class amenities, the leela ambience convention hotel is an iconic 5 star luxury hotel having 480 rooms and suites. an ePitome of luxury with india’s largest convention facility, the hotel has largest meeting sPace of 70,000 square feet.

I

ts strategic location in East Delhi, smooth connectivity to the city center and business districts of Ghaziabad and Noida, its modern architecture and aesthetic interiors make The Leela Ambience Convention Hotel, Delhi one of the most sought after luxury properties in the capital. Exhibiting sheer grandeur within its two towers and encompassing 480 rooms and suites, two receptions, two swimming pools, 25,000 sq.ft. of pillar-less ballroom, the hotel boasts of India’s largest meeting space of 70,000 sq.ft.

The Grand Sapphire which is the hotel’s pillar-less ballroom can further be divided into five smaller ballrooms. Emerald is another ballroom of 3300 sq ft area, adjacent to the Grand Sapphire and can accommodate smaller functions. With an impressive colour changing light arrangements in the ceiling, it adds more charm to the nature of the occasion. The vibrant blue carpeting and onyx wall lamps give a spectacular look to the events. The ballrooms, located on the ground floor, offer three dedicated entrances including two from either of the towers.

The Leela Ambience Convention Hotel, Delhi spoils its patrons with a choice for myriad cuisines through its specialty restaurants namely the all-day dining restaurant Café Knosh,

Indian specialty restaurant Dilli 32, Asian dining Mei Kun and a cocktail bar Cherry Bar. The hotel’s Executive Chef and his team designs interesting menus that delight both the local and international palates with the best of local and seasonal produce.

The hotel boasts of a modern design where the facilities are moderately divided into two towers. To add to the comfort of the guests, it offers two temperature controlled outdoor swimming pools, two fitness centres, two Concierge and two lobbies as well.

The hotel also offers recreational facilities including a luxurious spa and a modern salon, Shanaya. The spa specialises in Asian and European therapies, and also offers Ayurvedic treatments. For the most stylish haircuts, advanced make-ups, modern hairstyles and other hair and body grooming facilities, the salon offers beauty and grooming packages for the would be groom and bride The InformaTIon

The Leela Ambience Convention Hotel, Delhi,1, CBD Maharaj Surajmal Road, Near Yamuna Sports Complex, Delhi 110032, India To book call us at 8130990841 | Email: reservations@theleela.com, Website: www.theleela.com.

Website: www.thelalit.com/the-lalit-goa

city shanghai cover story kerala

let the games begin From paragliding in Vagamon to oFF-roading in munnar, AnshikA nAgAr maps out the adVenturous side oF god’s own country

Tourists walk through the Periyar Wildlife Sanctuary, Keralatraveller • SePteMBer 2014 80 outlook

GETTY IMAGES

The skyscrapers of Lujiazui loom over the clouds. In the foreground is the iconic Jin Mao Tower, outlook traveller • SePteMBer 2017

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Biking in Ernakulam; and (facing page) big waves make surfing fun in Kovalam

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FOVEAFOTO

S

erene and peaceful are words often used to describe Kerala.

Tranquil backwaters, towering mountain ranges, bountiful wildlife sanctuaries and turquoise beaches—God’s own country is capable of impressing even the biggest of cynics. But with the Arabian Sea to the west and the majestic Ghats in the east, Kerala offers a varied landscape that is a gateway to adventures crafted by nature itself.

The 900 kilometres of backwaters are great for canoeing, kayaking, wind surfing, parasailing, bamboo rafting and host the state’s famous boat races. From September to January, activities like paragliding, trekking and rock climbing are organised all over the state. Whatever be your brand of thrill, Kerala is the place to face your fears and foray into adventure tourism.

North Kerala

Kannur is home to the popular Payyambalam beach, but that’s not all there is to the district. On the border of Kerala and Karnataka, 65 kilometres from Kannur, is the highest peak in north Kerala, the Pythal Mala. Situated in the Western Ghats, the hill descends into the Kudaku forest in Karnataka. The trek to the top is six kilometres long, rich in meadows and valleys that are home to varied butterflies and birds.

A thick blanket of mist surrounds the ruins of tribal king Vaithalkon’s palace. The Pythal Mala is a monsoon trek.

Way up in the north is the Aralam Wildlife Sanctuary. The sanctuary’s forests extend into Coorg in Karnataka. In Kerala, they spread over 55 kilometres, with diverse forests of evergreen, semi-evergreen, deciduous and moist deciduous nature. The hill slopes are gracefully dotted with plantations of teak, cashew and eucalyptus. outlook traveller • december 2017

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Clockwise from here: mountain biking in Thenmala; paragliding in Vagamon; and kayaking in Alleppey

The altitude varies in these hills, with Katti Betta, the tallest, reaching 1,145 metres. Enter the sanctuary from Valayamchal, the southwest corridor. From here, guests can scale 25 kilometres of tough terrain to reach the Ambalappara watchtower. Trekkers settle here for the night, and camp inside the rainforest the next day. The third day is spent returning to Valayamchal. This trek is moderately tough and not recommended for beginners. One can even choose, instead, to trek to Meenmutty waterfalls, 14 kilometres from Valayamchal. On the way, notice the rare Malabar giant squirrel, also known as the flying squirrel. Snakes, tigers, elephants, deer and wild boar are some other wildlife that you might encounter.

A three-hour drive from Kozhikode will take you to Meppadi from where one can scale the highest peak in Wayanad. The Chembra peak is 2,100m above sea level and is home to several exotic species. Prior permission is needed from the Meppadi forest office to undertake this beginners’ trek. Guided tours are also available.

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KALYPSO ADVENTURE

WHAT ELSE TO DO

Retail Therapy Jew Town in Kochi is a narrow street brimming with antique shops. Here, curios from different corners of the world can be found. Jewellery, crockery, figurines, wooden furniture, porcelain, Chinese urns and paintings fill the stores.

A huge bronze vessel with handles on both sides called the vaarpu is a speciality of Jew Town.

The world-famous Balaramapuram handloom sarees (in pic) are elegant and simple, made from the finest of yarns and featuring intricate golden zari work. Pick a maroon or olive green

bordered saree with golden brocade and motifs, or the checked golden brocade saree with a thick golden border.

Men can buy the mundu (dhoti).

Buy the Aranmula Kannadi, a metallic mirror made with a secret alloy of copper and tin. The product is rigorously polished for a highly reflective surface.

With ornamentation inspired by temple towers, The Nettur Petti is a handcrafted jewel box fashioned out of rosewood and countrywood. The brass lock on the box is called the chithrapootu or the manichithrathazhu.

PHOTOGRAPHS cOuRTeSy KeRALA TOuRISM

Start from the Chembra foothills tea garden and trek three kilometres uphill to see waterfalls and natural springs. The heart-shaped lake Hridhayathadakam is enthralling post monsoon, with the flora around it in full bloom. A three-storey watchtower is perched atop the hill. The peak joins the Nilgiri Hills in Tamil Nadu and Vallarimala in Kozhikode.

Wayanad is more than just trekking. Adventure junkies can head next to the cluster of islets popularly called Kuruva Island. Located 40 kilometres from Kalpetta, it is known for its bamboo trees and herbal plants, and can be accessed from October to May. Here, experience bamboo rafting on crafted rafts that take visitors through nature’s bounty.

Wayanad is a mixed bag of terrains. What better way to experience it than by testing your driving skills in an off-roading jaunt. The vastly different altitudes of the Western Ghats, the forests, the savannahs and the plantations make for a dream ride for any motorcyce junkie.

Central Kerala

The agrarian district of Palakkad is pristine and has stayed clear of mass tourism. The forests of Silent Valley and the Malampuzha dam come under this district. Drive for three hours from Palakkad to the Parambikulam Tiger Reserve where tourists can enjoy two treks. Trudge along a century-old tramway route on the Cochin state forest tramway trek. Or try the Kariyanshola Trail through evergreen forests.

These forests shelter endangered medical plants and 67 rare species of orchids.

In Thrissur district, the Chimmony Wildlife Sanctuary is home to endemic and endangered species that spread over 86 square kilometres. The deciduous forest makes up most of the greens, besides tropical evergreen and semi-evergreen forests. The only human inhabitants, the Malaya tribe, assist in treks that start from a 40-metre altitude and slant eastwards to 1,116 metres at the Punda Peak.

The Chimmony River houses a dam in the

Zipline river crossing in Kuruva Island

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Tribal settlements can be seen when trekking to Vysiapara in Chinnar Wildlife Sanctuary

sanctuary, where guests can choose the short or the full-day version of bamboo rafting trips. The verdant landscape doesn’t offer marked trails, so a trek can be taken through several paths with streams and fallen trees. Rocks and boulders en route offer challenging climbs and drops.

Idukki is a must-visit in Kerala, Munnar being its finest hill station. Here, one can undertake a six-hour trek that goes through the butterfly forest to the 2,624-metre-high Meesapulimala. Trace the Western Ghats when descending, and notice the tea and eucalyptus plantations in Rhodo Valley. Hiking on the steep cliffs of Munnar is a challenge filled with rocky contours. The rugged landscape of Munnar offers more than just treks and rock climbing. At the 2011 Malaysian Motorcycle Grand Prix, Shell Advance named the path from Coorg to Munnar as the ultimate Riding Wonder. The challenging topography covers a range of mountains and bends, and is host to a premier 86

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off-roading event, Mahindra Great Escape.

In Periyar Wildlife Sanctuary¸ poachers-turnedprotectors lead a trek that passes through the hills and valleys of the tiger reserve. These armed experts help you in spotting wildlife like the Nilgiri langur, the giant squirrel, and elephants on the Periyar Tiger Trail. Visitors with luck on their side can even spot tigers. This is an expert-level trek and is open to people aged between 15 and 65 years. Border Hiking is another trek in the same area that ranges from 900 metres to 1,300 metres. It is protection-oriented and trekkers can spot wildlife such as sloth bears, gaur, deer and elephants.

From Periyar, go for a 2N/3D trek to explore the Chinnar Wildlife Sanctuary. The jungle filled with pre-historic caves and dolmenoids has become an archaeological wonder. A trek to Vysiapara takes you through the tribal settlements and requires an overnight stay.

WHAT ELSE TO DO

Land of Ayurveda

Ayurveda is a 5,000-year-old tradition in Kerala that has been passed down from the Ashta Vaidyas (the eight families). The Kerala Tourism Development Corporation (KTDC) has condensed the state’s ayurveda knowledge and turned it into a 15-day certified course called Ayurbodha. The course includes home remedies and regimens to maintain your health. The use of marmam to manage pain and the basics of panchakarma, with the history of medicinal plants, are also taught. You can take up this course in one of four KTDC scenic resorts. Hotel Samudra in Kovalam is near palm-fringed coves where the concoction of sun, sand and sea makes it an ideal setting to learn ayurveda.

In Thekkady, the Aranya Lodge offers Ayurbodha. The resort’s proximity to Periyar Wildlife Sanctuary and Periyar Lake provides surplus opportunity to practice what you learn. The Tea County in Munnar offers the same course.

Amid spice plantations, this resort is a heritage colonial tea estate. The Bolgatty Island Resort is the largest Dutch palace outside the Netherlands, and is perched on an island in Kochi. You can enjoy daily Kathakali performances and golfing here. The Ayurbodha course is $100 per day, including accommodation and breakfast.

South Kerala

The erstwhile Travancore kingdom makes up most of south Kerala, with Trivandrum being the capital of course. Today, Trivandrum is more than a cultural centre and has become a hotspot for activities like trekking, rock climbing and watersports.

Kovalam is a beach town that aces surfing, catamaran sailing and parasailing. The waves here can vary between half a metre to two metres in height, making surfing fun for experts and easy for beginners.

Varkala beach, 50 kilometres from Trivandrum, is another bustling beach town. The cliffs near the beach lend themselves to thrilling paragliding experiences.

The beach offers surfing, parasailing and scuba diving.

A combination of board riding and paddling, standup paddling makes for an interesting alternative to surfing. Catamaran sailing with modern propellers is available all around Varkala.

The second highest peak in south India located 70 kilometres from Trivandrum, Agasthyakoodam stands tall at 1,868 metres. Trekkers have to scale grasslands interspersed with waterfalls and steep climbs.

The peak was named after the sage Agastya and is frequented by pilgrims. Women are not allowed on the peak and cannot partake in the trek. The ideal time to trek Agasthyakoodam is in December and a forest pass is needed from the wildlife office at Trivandrum.

Alleppey may be famous for its backwaters, but its beaches and harbours make for the best of watersports. One can indulge in parasailing, surfing, and snake boat races held in August and September.

Called the Venice of the East, it also offers a beautiful kayaking experience. The palm-fringed waterways provide singular sights of village life.

Limits are tested when one challenges gravity. The 160-foot-high cragged rocks of Eruthavoor and the jagged grounds of Thenmala are both prime spots for rock climbing. The high grounds of Thenmala are equipped with pegs and ropes for rappelling.

Eruthavoor is on the outskirts of Trivandrum and is host to the Kerala chapter of Adventure Foundation.

One can reach Thenmala by travelling 72 kilometres on the road from Trivandrum to Kollam.

The expansive backwaters of Kollam cover one-third of the district. In 1984, the tropical semievergreen forests of Shendurney were declared a wildlife sanctuary. It offers several intermediate and hard treks that go up to eight hours. The Wet ‘N’ Wild trail has altitudinal variations of 1,000 metres and passes through deciduous forests. Elephants, leopards, and sambar deer are frequently spotted here.

There’s also the Edapalayam mount hiking trail that goes through the scenic Palaruvi waterfalls and offers ample opportunity to encounter wildlife. Covering an area of 18 kilometres, the Evergreen Trail introduces tourists to flagship species like the shendurney tree and the lion-tailed macaque.

From Vagamon, take to the hills of Kolahalamedu where the Paragliding Grand Prix is held every September. The paragliding here is in tandem with expert pilots who manoeuvre the flight over hills, meadows, dense pine forests and waterfalls. The site has a 10-kilometre ridge with a height of over 3,000 feet, making it a prime destination for paragliding.

The activity season starts from September and goes on till January.

Kerala has always had the topography for adventure activities. Now, it also has the intent. With Kerala Tourism pushing for adventure-oriented holidays, and the winter season officially beginning, there has never been a better time to visit God’s Own Country for some thrilling experiences. outlook traveller • december 2017

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KuruKshetra Brahma Sarovar and a temple complex in the middle of it

KuruKshetra The Land That Defies Time Introduction

The bronze chariot of Krishna and Arjuna near Brahma Sarovar is a popular tourist attraction

In more ways than one, the city of Kurukshetra in Haryana represents India’s character—a rich history, an intriguing mythological background, and a land seeped in diplomacy and kingship as well as spirituality and pilgrimage. The place is best known as the battleground for the war of Mahabharata— where a dialogue between Lord Krishna and Pandava Prince Arjuna, which forms the basis of Bhagavad Gita’s narrative, ensued.

But all this is merely scratching the surface.

Kurukshetra’s relevance is further amplified with its role in Vedic culture as the place where the Rig Veda and Sama Veda were compiled, in the Hindu legal tradition with the writing of the ancient scripture Manusmriti by the sage Manu, in the realm of kingship with story of the great emperor Harshavardhan, in spirituality with visiting patrons and saints such as Lord Buddha and Lord Mahavira, and even in Sikh and Mughal history. Kurukshetra has seen many eras of relevance and oblivion, and today it stands as a relic to an unforgettable past, home to a prominent university and an important site of pilgrimage.

LAND OF BHAGAwAD GITA

attractions Legend has it that Lord Brahma created the universe from Brahma Sarovar, a sacred pool in Kurukshetra. A popular resting site for winter migratory birds, it is embellished by the sight of Gita Jayanti’s Aarti in late November-early December.

Sri Krishna Museum is a three-decade old glimpse into the history and culture of Kurukshetra. Find here artifacts representing Krishna, Vishnu and the city through murals, mannequins, paintings and scenographies that depict the legendary tale of Mahabharata. Open all days, 10am to 5pm; Rs. 30 entry for persons above age 10.

Jyotisar, a town in Kurukshetra district, has a vat or banyan tree which local tradition demarcates as an offshoot of the tree beneath which Lord Krishna delivered the Bhagavad Gita sermon to Arjuna.

Visit Sthaneshwar Mahadev Temple, which was once the abode of emperor Harshvardhana of Pushyabhuti dynasty.

Finally, Sheikh Chehli’s tomb, about four centuries old, speaks of Kurukshetra’s Sufi history and immortalises the teachings of popular Sufi saint, Abdu’r-Rahim alias Aabd-ul-Razak, best known as Sheikh Chehli.

The Bhagavad Gita

History

Kurukshetra bears signs of civilisation from the pre-Harappan period through an assortment of excavated relics such as pottery and wares. Tradition says Kurukshetra is named after the Aryan tribe, Kurus, whose role was to compose and recite the Vedas, as well as perform Yajanas (sacrifices or offerings).

Kurukshetra was, as per Pali religious literature, one of the 16 Mahajanapadas or oligarchic republics, prominent between the 6th and the 4th century BCE. It became a seat of political power as part of the Gupta kingdom, which covered much of the Indian subcontinent in this period. A formal administrative setup was brought here during the reign of the third ruler of the Delhi Sultunate, Iltutmish, who converted the city into an iqta (much like a division, such as a state).

Still, it is the role of Harshavardhan of Pushyabhuti dynasty, in the 6th and 7th centuries CE that gave Kurukshetra its pedestal in history. Then called Sthaneshwar, the city became the seat of an emperor whose territory covered a large portion of India. The place was exposed to art, literature and Buddhism under Harshavardhan’s patronage.

Thanesar, next to Kurukshetra town and part of the district, was recognised by Chinese traveller Hiuen Tsang for its rich and abundant soil and the massive wealth of the families who resided here. Thanesar also became a centre of Sikhism during the Mughal period. Nine out of ten Sikh Gurus are said to have visited it during this period. n

A sadhu takes a dip in Brahma Sarovar

How to ReacH Location: North-eastern part of Haryana; approx. 155km (3hr-drive) from Delhi and approx. 95km (2hr-drive) from Chandigarh. connectivity: Kurukshetra is connected to both New Delhi and Chandigarh

by National Highway 1. It is also connected through the Ambala-Hissar National Highway 65. The nearest airport is Chandigarh. Seven daily trains connect Delhi with Kurukshetra Junction (KKDE).

Weather: Kurukshetra experiences continental climate much like Delhi (winters between 7*C and 22*C, and summers 35*C to 42*C). Monsoons are between June and September.

Best time to visit: November to February are pleasant months, and hence the best time to visit

The sacred banyan tree at Jyotisar in Kurukshetra district

city shanghai

Old-world furniture and hunting trophies grace the interiors of Gajalaxmi Palace in Dhenkanal. Facing page: a sanyasi outside a rainbowhued doorway at the monastic complex of90 Joranda outlook traveller • SePteMBer 2014

ROYAL

FABLES

The palaces of odisha are opening up To visiTors aT long lasT. TexT and phoTographs by ANURAG MALLICK and PRIYA GANAPATHY

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It was pitch dark and the narrow mud road was barely discernible in our car’s headlights. Somewhere on the outskirts of Dhenkanal, our vehicle scratched its way through some bramble on an increasingly narrowing path. “Bab…..u,” our driver Kalia’s voice quavered, unsure of the way ahead. “Please let us go back into town and take a lodge,” he pleaded in Oriya. Eerily, we passed by an outré Kali temple, whose female leonine doorkeepers wore skull garlands and wielded a bloodied sword, clutching a decapitated head. We caught Kalia looking at it nervously out of the corner of his eye…

Indeed, there was no road marked, but Google Maps insisted that our destination Gajlaxmi Palace was nearby. The seconds ticked away slowly and Kalia sat on the edge of his seat, teeth chattering, his nose to the steering wheel, until we finally saw a white edifice looming to the right. By the time we had finished rejoicing and unloading our bags, our driver had convinced our hosts that we planned to murder him and decamp with his vehicle. Why two travel writers on assignment would want to pop off their driver was perhaps beyond poor Kalia’s comprehension, but we hoped that it was just Dhenkanal’s wilderness and the long drive that distressed him!

This was indeed wild country. Inhabited by

aboriginal tribes since prehistoric times and surrounded by lush river valleys and the Bahukhai and Kapilash Forests of the Eastern Ghats, Dhenkanal is home to tigers, elephants and other beasts. Located on the gentle slopes of the Megha outlook traveller • december 2017

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odisha Clockwise from below: a master weaver displays the lustre and unique weave of the Nuapatna silk sari; the grand gateway of the temple complex of the unusual Mahima Dharma in Joranda; the ancient Chandrasekhar temple atop Kapilash hill; and a dreadlocked ascetic of the Mahima order

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Hills, the double-storey palace is tucked in an untamed patch on the town’s quiet outskirts.

Jitendra Pratap Singh Deo or JP and his charming wife Navneeta run it as a heritage hotel.

Strewn across its living spaces and rooms were large sandooks (chests), period furniture and artefacts, while hunting trophies lined the walls.

From a glass showcase in the drawing room, the shiny eyes of the dreaded man-eating tiger of Naranpatna glowered at us. It had claimed 83 victims before being shot by JP’s father Kumar Saheb Ranendra Pratap Singh Deo at Koraput.

The trophy and the palace featured in Satyajit Ray’s Royal Bengal Rahasya, shot by Sandip Ray, besides a host of other films.

By morning, Gajlaxmi Palace wore a more cheerful air. We savoured the view of the surrounding forests from the terrace and took a morning walk through the orchard to a water tank frequented by elephants, wild boar, barking deer, civet cats, rabbits, peafowl, jungle fowl and raptors. Being the only water source in the area, it attracted all sorts of wildlife. Our appearance from a thicket startled a sambhar on the opposite bank. Back at the palace, Navneeta explained over breakfast how the palace took

seven years to build before being completed in 1942. When she came here from Udaipur in 1998, it was total wilderness and one couldn’t even spot a cyclewala! Her innate Rajasthani love for heritage and hospitality prompted her to convince JP to renovate it into a heritage stay in 2009. They finally opened in February 2011, naming it after the famous Gajlaxmi puja of Dhenkanal.

Despite the proximity to Bhubaneswar airport (100km away), things didn’t look up until they were featured in an international guide as a ‘rural retreat.’ Most of their visitors were from Europe and would often end up extending their stay. JP takes his guests on jeep rides to Satkosia, Saptasajya and other excursions. The summer heat forces the hosts to close down for four months from April, but the rest of the year is excellent for nature walks in the surrounding orchard full of cashew, jackfruit, mango and litchi trees and dense clumps of sal and bamboo. The homegrown produce from the farm like papaya, drumsticks, carrots and cabbage are conveniently used in the kitchen.

Besides Dhenkanal, the extended royal family of Singh Deos also reigned other princely states like Balangir, Kalahandi and Mayurbhanj. Dhenkanal is supposedly named after a Sabara tribal chief

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called Dhenka who ruled this patch in the 16th century. Sridhar Bhanja, a local chieftain from the neighbouring region of Garh Besalia, vanquished Dhenka in battle. Dhenka’s dying wish was that the area be named after him and his sacred relic be preserved and worshipped. The area was called Dhenkanal in his memory and his relic is worshipped at Dhenkanal Palace to this day!

In 1529, Hari Singh Vidyadhar, commander of the southern forces of Gajapati king Pratap 94

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Rudra Deva, defeated the local Bhanja chief and established control over the region. The Gajapati Maharaj crowned him as the Raja of Dhenkanal and, ever since, 18 generations have ruled the throne. Dhenkanal Palace, a large complex on the slopes of the Garhjat Hills, was built at the site of a fort that witnessed a long drawn siege with the Marathas. Six rooms have been reserved for guests, two large family rooms double up as lounges, while the Durbar Hall hosts folk music

Clockwise from above: Kila Dalijoda, a renovated hunting lodge; Sadeibereni, a hamlet that specialises in dhokra; and the lofty façade of Gajalaxmi Palace in Dhenkanal

and dance performances on request. Be it Aul Palace near Bhitarkanika or Parikud Palace near Chilka, many of Odisha’s old palaces are being converted into heritage hotels.

Dhenkanal town doesn’t have major attractions, except the 16th century Siddha Balarama Temple with its 90ft-high spire that towers over town, the Dhenkanal Science Museum near the palace Rajbati and the District Museum, which houses weapons of erstwhile rulers and Paleolithic tools

found in archaeological excavations. The presence of Dhenkanal College, Indian Institute of Mass Communication and other educational institutions gives the town a youthful air with a large student population. Snack vendors park their cycles outside schools, colleges and street corners to dish out dahi bada and the eponymous Dhenkanal bada, a traditional fried snack of black gram and rice served with ghughni (yellow pea curry).

After a quick bite at Gourang Mishtan Bhandar, outlook traveller • december 2017

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Odisha’s countryside presents scenic landscapes of hills, cotton fields and shepherds on the move

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we drove 24km via Karmul to Joranda, the religious headquarters of ‘Mahima Dharma’, a 19th-century monotheistic cult and reform movement that is often described as ‘the world’s youngest religion’.

Joranda houses the samadhi of its founder Mahima Gosain. Ascetics in loincloth with long matted hair roamed about the vast complex dotted with temples—Shunya Mandir, Dhuni Mandir and Gadi Mandir. They believe in a single supreme God or parambrahma named Alekha who is formless and omnipresent. Monks lead a life of austerity, celibacy, piety and constant movement, as they cannot sleep in the same place on successive nights or eat twice in the same house. The temples have no idols, only beautiful lamps and feathers and the evening arti is a sublime experience. At the Joranda fair, in existence since 1874, devotees pray together, recite ‘Alekh Brahma’ and burn ghee for universal peace and harmony.

Backtracking to the Y-junction at Kaimati, we continued to Kapilash. At 1,500ft, the lofty

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peak with its 13th-century Shiva temple of Chandrasekhar is hailed as the ‘Kailash of Odisha’.

We parked at the base of the hill, but instead of hiking up 1,351 steps, hired a four-wheel-drive jeep to tackle the steep ghat road and 12 hairpin bends to the temple. The spire of the Shiva temple bears an image of Lord Jagannath, which demonstrates the synthesis of Shaivism and Vaishnavism. East of the main shrine, at a higher altitude of 2,239 ft, stand the temples of Narayan and Vishwanath, the latter being older than the Chandrasekhar temple, hence also called ‘Budha Linga’.

Dhenkanal is excellently placed for excursions.

Perched at 900ft, the hill temple of Raghunath or Lord Rama at Saptasajya, 14km away, was built by Rani Ratnaprabha Devi of Dhenkanal. The name Sapta Sajya refers to the ‘seven hills’ where Lord Rama, the Saptarishi (seven celestial sages) and the Pandavas are believed to have stayed. We drove into a nondescript village called Sadeibereni where craftsmen practiced the ancient art of dhokra—an

odisha indigenous metal casting technique using the lost wax method where they use clay, beeswax and scrap metal to make bracelets, necklaces and idols of gods and goddesses, besides utilitarian pieces.

At the weaving village of Nuapatna, the narrow bylanes resound with the clackety-clack of looms as weavers and master craftsmen avidly share their technique of creating these lovely khandua paat (traditional bandha or ikat saris).

It was again late evening by the time we drove past Chaudwar towards Kila Dalijoda. Kalia was at the wheel and it was pitch dark outside. He cleared his throat nervously and uttered “Babu…,” but luckily we spotted two pillars and on a hunch asked him to drive through. We ended up at a beautiful two-storey stone house and were welcomed by Debjit Prasad Singh Deo and his wife Namrata who run Kila Dalijoda as a heritage homestay.

Stone steps led up to a hall of the European style mansion with lovely stained-glass windows, arches and period furniture. Once a hunting lodge of the erstwhile rulers of Panchakote, Kila Dalijoda was built in 1931-33 by Raja Jyoti Prasad Singh Deo. It was named after the adjoining Dalijoda forest range of the Kapilas Elephant Sanctuary that once stretched right up to its doorstep!

The original patch of Kila Dalijoda spread over 11,000 acres; today the holding has shrunk to just 40 acres with two large tanks on the property.

While we devoured home-cooked Odiya fare like machha besara (fish in mustard curry), saag (greens) and arisa pitha (deep-fried rice pancake),

Debjit helped us plan our trip to Bhitarkanika and nearby craft villages and tiny hamlets of the Saura and Munda tribes. The proximity to the Mahanadi and its back channels gave ample opportunities for fishing and the gently undulating tracts were great for cycling. By the time we were done with Odisha, we had clocked 3,000km. As we bid Kalia goodbye at the Biju Patnaik International Airport at Bhubaneswar, he was teary-eyed but we couldn’t be sure if it was because he was going to miss us, or he was relieved he was still alive…

Besides the eponymous Dhenkanal bada, local snacks like pyaji or onion fritters are very popular

# THE INFORMATION GettinG ther e >Air The nearest airport at Bhubaneswar is 80km from Dhenkanal, and only 45km from Kila Dalijoda. Most airlines fly into Bhubaneswar and the airport is connected to several indian cities. >rAil Dhenkanal Railway Station serves Dhenkanal district and is well connected to Cuttack (55km) on the main HowrahChennai route. >roAD 75km NW of Bhubaneswar and 55km from Cuttack via NH55 via Chaudwar, while NH42 connects Dhenkanal to Sambalpur and rourkela.

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the palaces Many of the royal palaces in and around Dhenkanal have now been converted into heritage hotels and palatial homestays.

Dhenkanal Palace Tariff: from `6,000 per night Contact: +91-9437292448, 9748478335, contact@ dhenkanalpalace.com, dhenkanalpalace.com Gajlaxmi Palace Borapada, 3km from Dhenkanal Tariff: from `6,500 per night Contact: +91-9861011221,

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9337411020, navneeta.singhdeo@ gmail.com, gajlaxmipalace.com kila DalijoDa Ambilijhari, via Chaudwar Tariff: from `3,000 per night Contact: +91- 9438667086, debjitsinghdeo@yahoo.co.in, kiladalijoda.com

what to eat Try the Dhenkanal bada and local sweets at Gouranga Sahoo mistharna Bhandara (+91-6762224861, +91-9778228877) on College road and Prasidha Bara in Ganesh Bazaar. Dhenkanal is

also known for its chhunchi patra, a sweet cake made of ground coconut, rice and maida.

when to Go Dhenkanal is great to visit from october to March. The joranda fair is held on a full-moon day in the Hindu month of Magha (Jan– Feb). Shivaratri is celebrated at Kapilash with great fervour in FebMarch. The ramnavami fair at Saptasajya is held in March-April.

For more information, contact Tourist office, TrC Complex, Mahisapat, Dhenkanal 759001; +91-6762-221031, 234670.

TH E JURY

Aman Nath

Amanpreet Bajaj

Amit Dixit

Ananda Banerjee

Belinda Wright

CB Ramkumar

Dr Harold Goodwin

Jaya Jaitly

Malika Virdi

Milan Moudgill

Prerna Bindra

Ratish Nanda

Suman Billa

Sheema Mookherjee

Steve Borgia

Sohail Hashmi

Dr Venu Vasudevan

www.responsibletourism.com Responsible Tourism

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just back araku

fly fret, not Do

A thousAnd feet up in the Air Above ArAku’s colorful lAndscApe, Garima Pura finds A wider perspective on life’s little niggles

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punctuated with kondas (hills in Telugu).

Araku has almost entirely escaped the concrete touch of bricks and mortar.

While tribes residing in the valley have fixed their homes with dried leaves, cow dung cakes and wood, the only trace of cement I could spot from a height of a thousand feet was a rather minimalist temple. White in colour with a red flag

GARIMA PURA

t the safe harbour of a cathartic process, I was recommended by a wellmeaning friend to observe my situation from a higher perspective—like I was flying over myself. If all the hard work by the wings was dealt with, birds would have a gala time in the air.

Flight has always caught man’s fancy.

Envy too, until we found our ways.

Today, we have plenty of ways to shift the perspective to aerial in stressful times, without being boxed.

I was on one such flight—wafting over the Araku Valley, 114 kilometres from the port city of Visakhapatnam, in a hot-air balloon. The Ministry of Tourism, Andhra Pradesh, and Sky Waltz had organised a hot-air balloon festival to present Araku to the world. It was a smart means of presentation. I bore bird’s-eye-view-witness to the unending farmlands that cover its landscape in different shades of green and cream,

The 50-foot-long envelope was a riot of colours

propped on its crown, it hardly occupied a square metre, as seen from my vantage point. It seems like the gods in Araku valley believe in simple living too.

They say the British laid out Africa’s map on a table and divided it into countries with a ruler, after they abandoned their colonies there. Araku farmers have achieved that precision in planting crops in quadrilaterals, without a ruler. At one point, the Malaysian pilot and owner of our balloon, Izzati, flew it right over a paddy field. As the bottom of the basket carrying us caressed the crop, I could hear the water trickling down irrigation channels. It sounded like a cursory greeting to the neighbourhood greens by an unassuming stream on just another day at work.

The distinguishing lines between the quadrilaterals were grooves that this stream flowed through. The kondas were covered in coffee plantations and drenched in morning mist until evening.

From high up, you can see that Araku farmers have planted their crops in perfect quadrilaterals GARIMA PURA

outlook traveller • DeCeMBer 2017

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city shanghai araku Post sunset, fog took charge.

Ballooning is an easy flight for the faint-hearted. The risk in this adventure sport is a rough landing, which Izzati was too experienced to afford. Her expertise shone since the moment she began pulling out the balloon basket, also known as a gondola (vessel for passengers), from the back of a mini truck single-handedly. I almost felt guilty for being a mere observer to the process.

Thankfully, the Sky Waltz team arrived in time to do the needful. Izzati quickly hopped into the gondola to check the gas cylinders and establish their connectivity to the burner. A woman on a mission, she could’ve sailed through the assembling process on her own. In a potpourri of talk among Telugu-speaking policemen, Hindi-speaking team members and a Malay-speaking Izzati, she took it upon herself to do the setup and gave up on communication. The supportive bunch that they were, the other folks were quick to catch cues. It was an impressive display of non-verbal communication.

As she unrolled the gigantic envelope of the balloon, we saw a riot of colours unfurl. The team members understood their unannounced brief and helped her. The policemen and I promptly followed suit.

The Araku Balloon Festival is set to be an annual event during November-December

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I lifted my head with a sense of pride at having made my contribution, only to find Izzati nowhere. A few clueless minutes and desperate inquiries later,

I was directed to the mouth of the envelope, from where I could see Izzati inside it. She had decided to unroll the envelope in the direction of the wind, which had now naturally inflated the cloth. She was halfway into the 50-footlong rainbow-coloured nylon, lifting each fold to allow passage for wind.

Confident with the plump shape of our prospective flight vessel, she took long decisive steps towards its throat and used the burner to inflate it further.

With that, the envelope seemed charged enough to rise laterally. It eventually made for an ensemble that looked like a hot-air balloon’s,

Destination Luxury

A Resort That Celebrates Pure Nature

The air is laced with the fragrance of tender spices, the eyes can seek the boundless greens.

At the Mountain Club Resort luxury and leisure greets you with humility!

Chinnakanal, Munnar, Kerala-685 618, India. Tel: +91 4868 249978/79, +91 9539067830. info@mountainclub.co.in, www.mountainclub.co.in An EVM Group Venture

araku The Andhra government set up a glamping site for the balloon festival

which I had seen only in pictures.

I had come to the take-off site prepared to jump into a ready and erect hot-air balloon. But it had taken Izzati’s efficient, non-verbal leadership, a good 60 minutes, and collective effort from a multi-lingual lot for the assembly of this balloon. So, when she gestured for me to quickly hop in, I was caught off guard.

The balloon had gained soft motion.

It seemed prepared to glide. I quickly positioned my foot in a square-ish hollow space on the wall of the wicker basket and jumped inside it.

Up in the air, I was occupied with thoughts on the sights before me until they were interrupted by Derek Hancock blaring on the walkie-talkie.

He was the pilot of the balloon from the United States of America. A few 104

outlook traveller • DeCeMBer 2017

metres ahead of us, he challenged Izzati to land the closest to the campsite.

Izzati inquired if they were betting in American or Malaysian dollars. With 10 US dollars at stake, she took her own sweet time to glide low enough to brush paddy fields, soared to almost 2,500 feet, and still managed an unwrinkled landing a few metres ahead of Derek, closest to the campsite.

The walkie-talkie now erupted in worrisome messages from others who claimed that the French balloon had gone missing. The red corridor near the Odisha border was eight kilometres from our take-off site. While I had landed, my scepticism was still afloat. For no good reason, I was quite certain that Kevin (pilot of the French balloon) would only be cruising somewhere across a konda.

If all the hard work by the wings is dealt with, birds would have a gala time in the air—in no range of whine, in no need for wine. They have a good deal of wind. The next time a situation seems out of control, prescribe yourself an aerial perspective.

The Araku Balloon Festival was organised

by Sky Waltz for the Ministry of Tourism, Andhra Pradesh. This was the first edition of what they plan to carry out as an annual event during November-December.

Since Araku is in a remote area, the state government arranged for a glamping site for accommodation. You can look out for upcoming events on skywaltz.com. They also offer balloon rides in Pushkar, Agra, Lonavala, etc ( from `12,000 for an adult, `6,000 for a child).

Nature’s Green Carpet Amongst the lush greenery of Gods Own Country, Kerala, lies a small plantation hamlet. The confluence of 3 rivers contrived the name of this small hill station as Munnar. Scenic landscapes, ever green plantations and breath-taking valleys are abundant in Chinnakanal. Right in the heart of this nature’s canvas is the Golden Ridge Resort, a getaway to take you away from the hustle of life.

Golden Ridge Mountain Resort Periyakanal, Chinnakanal p.o, Munnar Kerala- 685618 04868-249600/249700/249800 info@goldenridgemunnar.com www.goldenridgemunnar.com

TRAVEL PROMOTION

South IndIa’S muSt vISIt

getaways in one’s lifetime

S

outh India is blessed with fantastic destinations across its landscape for the discerning leisure travellers. It also has perfect destinations for all seasons on offer. There are some stunning destinations along the coastline of South India which are strikingly distinct from each other & the region also has some of the best of Hill destinations for the leisure travellers which are pristine & have a distinct colonial flavour to them.

This feature takes one through the best of south Indian destinations & resorts which a leisure traveler should visit in one’s lifetime. No visit to God’s own country is complete without experiencing the stunning beauty of the romantic Kovalam beach, the serene estuary of Poovar, the pristine

mountain queen, Munnar and the ever pleasant Wayanad.

We have featured the iconic Leela Raviz Resort & the Udaya Samudra Resort & Tutle on the Bay Resorts in Kovalam.

Vythiri Village Resort is the only certified 5 star property in mystical Wayanad and it is the best destination to look for in Wayanad. Pristine Munnar is an evergreen destination & properties like Mountain Club, Golden Ridge & Frangrant Nature are enchanting marvels waiting to be explored.

Kanyakumari is part of the itinerary of almost all travellers to the south & the wonderful Sparsha Resort provides the best experience there. Leisure travellers visiting these resorts are sure to be treated to a wonderful experience.

There are some more enchanting destinations & this feature takes you there.

TRAVEL PROMOTION

ExpEriEncEs bEyond locations, Warmth bEyond comforts, naturE bEyond stylE

A

ll Fragrant Nature Hotels have stunning locations and breathtaking views - the quintessential identity. In the travel maps and hearts of discerning travellers to the subcontinent, Fragrant Nature has set a benchmark for experiential travel.

Fragrant Nature Backwater Resort & Ayurveda Spa offers the ultimate in relaxation and seclusion from the hustle and bustle of city life. Set on the breathtakingly beautiful and serene Mala lake near Paravur, in Kollam - the

place is a haven for Ayurveda & Yoga holiday makers.

Fragrant Nature Kochi is one among the most sought after 5 star hotels in the South offering history, art, culture and breathtaking views to the harbour. Located in the same locale of the erstwhile office of East India Company, this majestic building with the first clock tower in Fort Kochi is a landmark in Fort Kochi. Fragrant Nature Kochi houses a period Trompe L’Oeil art work in the lobby by two popular artists from England adding to the art and design

element of the region.

Fragrant Nature Munnar is located in the prime area called Pothamedu which has the best views to the Mountains.

Fragrant Nature Munnar 5 star hotel is styled similar to the local planter bungalows. All categories of rooms have cozy fireplaces as you would see in any planter’s bungalows in this region.

Welcome to the world of experiential travel with Fragrant Nature.

Website: www.fragrantnature.com

TRAVEL PROMOTION

Happiness & Celebrations never ever

T

he best beach destination you can never have enough of quiet romantic time with your lover on one of the exotic beaches in Kerala for a romantic honeymoon experience.

Uday Samudra Leisure Beach Hotel &

Spa branded as (UDS) located along the Samudra beach combining the best elements of nature with the convenience of today’s modern world, through exceptional standards of luxury, elegance and service is one of the most romantic beach resort in Kerala featuring 227 rooms, 5 Restaurants, 3 Swimming pools, Ayurveda & Yoga Centre, Ocean Spa, Beauty Studio, Health Club, Dental Clinic, Boutique shop and the extensive lawns & Beach dining.

Best experiences on your trip to UDS:

Sea facing bay suite, exclusive honey moon platters, Spa couple massage, beachside candle light dinner, Scuba diving, water sports, Backwater Cruise, local shopping, village tours, elephant bath, hill station tours, etc, You will remember the time spent on the crescent beaches of Kovalam, long after your honeymoon has ended. The remarkable splendor of this little town in Kerala is better experienced than told.

Website: www.uds.co.in

Mountain Club resort: an enCHanting property surrounded by gardens and evergreen Hills

M

unnar is South India’s largest tea-growing region - a perfect patchwork of verdant plantations and winding roads disappearing into an emerald green horizon. It is here you will find Mountain Club Resort: an enchanting property surrounded by gar-

dens and evergreen hills. Comprising of a number of one and two bedroom cottages, it’s an intimate and peaceful retreat perfect for honeymoons, romantic getaways or even family holidays. You’re up in the clouds gazing at exotic flora and fauna and watching nature at its finest, whether relaxing in the pool or enjoying a quiet moment on your private balcony.

Each cottage covers a large area, with plenty of room to explore and get away from it all and exceptional views at every turn. There’s even a badminton court and a pampering Ayurvedic spa, for melting all your worries away to soothing sounds

or smashing out your energy on the court.

You might think that a property boasting such splendid isolation would be devoid of modern facilities, yet you would be wrong; there’s a tailor-made conference hall for high profile corporate events, a luxury amphitheatre and a state-of-theart fitness centre. Theon-site restaurant Hot Hill offers a wide range of cuisine, including Italian, Chinese and delicacies from the local region of Kerala - perfect to enjoy as you watch the evening mist roll over the plantations.

Website: www.mountainclub.co.in

is an experience...

MUNNAR

KOLLAM

COCHIN

Near SBI Calvathy, Calvathy Bazaar Road, Kochi 682001, India, Telephone : +91(0) 484 221 3600 E-mail : enquiries@fragrantnature.com, www.fragrantnature.com

TRAVEL PROMOTION

Vythiri Village resort & spa: Welcome to the luxury

V

ythiri Village resort & spa is a classified five star resort by the government of India with responsible luxury harmoniously set in the heart of Wayanad amidst twenty two acres of refreshing greenery and the tantalising aroma of fresh spices, coffee and tea. Vythiri Village, ‘Nature’s best kept secret’ is the ideal place of luxury, wellness, MICE and wedding. The resort provides a village life experience to the guests & one can feel and recover the memorable moments with the beautifully landscaped surroundings. Touches of nature with contemporary design, create an unforgettable character for each room. The temperature controlled pool villas are spe-

cially designed for honeymoon couples to enjoy the romantic gateway.

Guests can enjoy various types of activities to enjoy the village life experience of Wayanad, and also Malabar’s cultural & traditional activities such as Theyyam, Kolkali, Kalaripayattu etc.

Guests can also experience adventure activities such as zip line, archery, morning walk, stream walk, cycling etc inside the resort. The walk through the stream and cycling through the winding roads of Wayanad are major attractions. The morning walk towards the deep valleys gives an opportunity to see different species of birds and their melody. The resort has an in-house yoga master & also of-

somatheeram ayurVeda group resorts: experience the ‘Best of ayurVeda’

W

elcome to Somatheeram Ayurveda Group Resorts in Kerala, founded by Mr. Baby Mathew in 1985. Somatheeram Ayurveda Group Resorts are inter-

nationally renowned for the conscious efforts taken towards the overall health of humanity, social responsibility, eco-friendly concept and environmental preservation.

The essence and soul of the resorts are the ancient medical science of Ayurveda and Art of Yoga.

It is our pleasure to show the world the amazing benefits of Ayurveda, Yoga & Meditation that grants a healthy and prosperous life. The Resorts are located

fers ayurvedic treatments under the supervision of qualified doctors and well trained therapists that are designed to at boosting one’s spirit by strengthening the body and mind. The resort also has musical programmes for the guests on all 365 days of the year.

In the recognition of its excellence, the resort was declared the Favorite boutique hotel in India by outlook traveler magazine in 2015. We are continuing our achievement by offering world class services. Guests can come & experience the finest of luxury and unravel the natures best kept secret.

Website: www.vythirivillage.com at the superb locations in the beach, backwater and evergreen forest in God’s own country ‘Kerala’.

Somatheeram: A special place for Ayurveda Health and Wellness: • National Award winner from Government of India continuously since 2013.

• Kerala State Award winner from Government of Kerala continuously since 2010.

• Winner of Twenty Five International and National Awards for Excellence in Ayurveda.

• World’s first Ayurveda Resort and the only one in India with Ayurveda SPA Europe Certification.

Here, various cultures and nationalities come together to share the glory of ancient wisdom ‘Ayurveda and Yoga’ which ensures a harmonious balance between man and body, man and nature.

Website: www.somatheeram.in

TRAVEL PROMOTION

sHaRe KeRala’s Best. tWo FoR Joy!

E

stuary Island Resort at Poovar, close to Kovalam, is not just a five star resort. It is a destination by itself.

A magical spot where nature brings together a river, a lake, an estuary, a beach and the Arabian sea to meet at one point. Nature might have taken millions of years in conspiring to bring these wonders of nature together.

In 16 acres it is probably the largest resort landscape in Kerala celebrating the concept of ‘the un-built’ in architecture.

The building footprint is just 12% of the total resort area thereby creating many gardens of different nature which are home to butterflies and birds. The distance from the entry point to the land’s

end, with backwaters lapping at the shore, is close to a kilometre.

The landscape of the resort flows into the backwater, the beach and the sea.

With 100 stylish rooms and facilities and activities like Ayurveda, swimming pools, restaurant on the water, a licensed full-fledged bar, big play grounds, sunset boat cruises, angling, evenings with cultural programmes make this unique five star property a dream destination for large theme-based weddings and memorable reunions.

Awarded India’s best five star hotel in

2015, the property really lives up to that rating. It has one of the largest spread of rooms to choose from - seven distinct types of rooms – all having a breathtaking view of the Arabian Sea. Even the common facilities like the conference halls, speciality restaurants have spectacular views of the ocean. Multicuisine restaurants, a spa and authentic Ayurveda treatments give you more reasons to stay at the Turtle on the beach when you are on a visit to Kovalam.

Website: www.thrhotels.com

Welcome to Holiday inn cHennai omR it expRessWay

C

onveniently located in the heart of the IT corridor on Rajiv Gandhi IT Expressway, also known as Old Mahabalipuram Road (OMR), Holiday Inn Chennai OMR IT Expressway is easily accessible to the city

and just 13 kms away from the Chennai International Airport. Whether you are travelling for leisure or business, at Holiday Inn we strive continuously to ensure that your stay with us is comfortable as well as a memorable one.

Our landmark property at SRP Tools Junction boasts of conveniences such as 202 comfortable guest rooms, contemporary interiors, breathtaking view of the IT corridor, complimentary standard Wi-Fi access, stylish banquet hall and to top it all an efficient staff who are always at your service. Relish a refreshing dining experience at our all day dining restaurant, Cafe G. We are also the right place for you to have the afternoon tea or a meeting over a cup of coffee.

Whether planning for a business trip or leisure in Chennai, book today at Holiday Inn Chennai OMR IT Expressway.

To get started call us at 044 6604 6604 Website: http://bit.ly/2AX2GW5

TRAVEL PROMOTION

auRomatRix: an acclaimed hotel & ResoRt development and manaGement company

F

ounded in 1990, Auromatrix is an acclaimed hotel & resort development and management company. It has evolved into one of the market leaders in a span of 20 years. A legacy of strong work ethics, commitment to quality and expert human resource helped it in attaining this admirable posi-

Golden RidGe ResoRt: luxuRy with Geniality

A

mid the nature’s beauty is the man made opulence with all glam and glitz, Golden Ridge Resort. Luxury with geniality is the personality endorsed by the resort.

And this can be experienced right from the time when you walk into the grandiose lobby of the resort. The affable crew of the resort will break the ice and make you feel at home.

tion in the industry. Today, the company is a conglomeration of related companies, nurturing a vibrant gamut of establishments and brands. Sparsa -an eco-sensitive and vibrant portfolio in the Auromatrix brand, has hotels of great experiential value.

Website: www.auromatrix.com

The accommodation facilities in the resort unfold a serene view of blue skies and never ending folds of green mountains. Stay in the resort and revel in the tranquil atmosphere & imbibe the happiness that it gives. With plush features, contemporary facilities and trendy décor the rooms at golden ridge Munnar will serve your purpose of home away from home.

The most sought after activity in the resort is the cardamom plantation walk. Take a guided tour across the plantation where you can breathe the spice in the air. The two famous trek locations near the resort are ‘Muniyara’ and ‘Anayirangal Dam’. ‘Anayirangal Dam’ is an enticing reservoir which attracts elephants all through the year to its vicinity. A retreat in the natures lap with all the luxury and comfort you can think off, this is Golden Ridge Resort for you.

Website: www.goldenridgemunnar.com

Somatheeram Ayurveda Group Wins Again National Tourism Award for the 3rd time during the year of 2015-16

S

omatheeram Research Institute and Ayurveda Hospital of Somatheeram Ayurveda Group has bagged again the prestigious National Tourism Award 2015-16 instituted by Government of India for the “Best Ayurvedic Wellness Centre”.

Somatheeram has fetched the coveted award three times by considering its performance of excellence towards the Quality & Standard Assurance, Hospital Hygiene and Safe Management policies, Corporate Social Responsibility, Eco-Friendly Concept, Innovative ideas in Ayurveda, Environmental Preservation and Customer satisfaction among the Ayurveda Hospitals and Wellness Centersin tourism sector of India.

“Somatheeram” is the winner of thirty National and International Awards for excellence in Ayurveda which includes Kerala Government Tourism Award for “Best Approved and Classified Ayurveda Centre” consecutively.

Somatheeram Ayurveda Group Resorts are internationally renowned for the conscious efforts taken towards the overall health of humanity and environmental preservation, founded by Mr Baby Mathew. Mr. Baby Mathew has sincerely and successfully attempted to focus world attention towards the ancient Indian healing therapies of Ayurveda and made way for the first ever Ayurveda Resort in the world!

Somatheeram Ayurveda Group Said to be the work of a Goddess with a Here, Dreams Of Good Health And green thumb, Kerala, which is situated at the southernmost tip of India welcomes you to Perfect Bliss Come True! the world of authentic Ayurveda at the serene Ayurvedic getaway by the sea- the Somatheeram Ayurveda Group Resorts, Kerala, India. These memorable and rejuvenating trips offered by Somatheeram Ayurveda Group Resorts are to be found and experienced all along the beaches, lakes, evergreen forests, gently swishing coconut groves, bird sanctuaries and the serene backwaters of Kerala, most rightly described as “God’s Own Country”. The essence and soul of Somatheeram Ayurveda Group Resorts are the ancient medical science of Ayurveda and art of yoga.

Ayurveda Resorts and Holidaying options offered by the Somatheeram Ayurveda Resort Group in Kerala, India is Somatheeram Ayurveda Resort in Chowara Beach, South of Kovalam, Trivandrum, Manaltheeram Ayurveda Beach Village in Chowara Beach, South of Kovalam, Trivandrum, Soma Palmshore in Kovalam Beach, Trivandrum, Soma Kerala Palace Lake resort in Chempu, Kochi – Kumarakom Road, Soma Birds lagoon in Thattakadu, Kochi and Soma houseboats in Alappuzha.

moveable feast restaurants

haute Tables These new resTauranTs will redefine delhi-nCr’s Culinary landsCape

Lock & key

I

n my experience, very rarely do restaurants in this neck of the woods aspire to the heights of perfection that Rituu Memani has achieved with her heady tribute to Prohibition-era speakeasies.

Cocktails were the drink of choice in speakeasies, required to mask the taste of the inferior liquor common in these establishments. But, rest assured, only topnotch spirits are poured here, and in such inventive and refreshing combinations that you’ll find yourself thirsting for more.

Located in the very central Cross Point Mall, the bar expects to tap into Gurugram’s vibrant afterwork scene. True to spirit, it’s set behind a discreet door with minimal signage. Of course, it’s all perfectly legal. It’s quirky (funny posters, and a wall of changing letters which, when I visited, admonished, “If these walls could talk”) and classy (velvet upholstery, nice glasses, spiffy staff ).

We munched toasted fox nuts while waiting for our drinks. The largely liquid lunch kicked off with the Rising Sun, an uplifting cuppa of bourbon, yuzu and green 118

outlook traveller • december 2017

tea which came in a slender teapot and, for my companion, a Popcorntini, a vodkabased concoction which had a paper cone of popcorn dangling from the glass. We followed this up with a Milano Spritzer and the unusual Black Ink (gin, dry vermouth, basil flavour and black sesame oil).

Cocktails can be tricky. How often have we been disappointed and retreated behind a straight drink. I’m, therefore, glad to report that, quirky presentation apart, these were jaw-droppingly good drinksas well. I do, however, draw the line at serving a drink to a grown man in a breakfast bowl, which is exactly what Cereal Killer (cornflakes, milk, vanilla and bourbon) turned out to be.

After these superlative cocktails, I wondered if the food would be able to match up. We were high, and so were our expectations. The sampling began with some promising hickory kathal tacos and petite gouda naans. The burnt onion prawns convinced me that, till that point, I had been eating these delicious crustaceans all wrong.

Rum & coke wings and truffloni flatbread

(starring pepperoni and truffle oil) were up next. We needn’t have fretted. The food was no afterthought. For the cautious, there are a lot of popular, comfort options on the menu, including competent kebab platters. Health food is by no means prohibited, and we piously tucked into two salads: goat’s cheese and orange, and a revelatory Burmese tomato salad with its contrasting textures.

This is also a bar where you can have a conversation; the canned music is at a sane decibel. There are live performances on Friday and Saturday, strictly jazz and retro.

Lock & Key would be right at home in any world city. For a change, we’re the lucky ones who’ll unlock its secrets. Shop No 105, 106 & 107, First Floor, DLF Cross Point Mall, DLF Phase IV, Gurugram, +91-8882018888 n

amit dixit

Essential Eating Rising Sun, Black Ink and Detox Retox (drinks), burnt onion prawns

Sparsa - Thiruvannamalai

Le Poshe by Sparsa - Kodaikanal

Astoria by Sparsa - Madurai

Sparsa - Kanyakumari

Hycinth by Sparsa - Trivandrum

RESTAURANTS

Burma Burma

O

n the second floor of Select CityWalk, Saket, lies a portal to Burma. While the country is marred by conflict, the atmosphere here is one of contentment as people sample gastronomical delights under pagoda-top lanterns. One of the walls is lined with pairs of miniature dolls, each depicting an ethnic tribe. I’m visiting the third outlet of Burma Burma Restaurant and Tea Room, the first two being in Mumbai and Gurugram.

Launched in August, it presents the eclectic personality of Burmese cuisine— influenced by neighbours India, China and Thailand. The menu is a mishmash of nouvelle Asian dishes; the only restraint—it’s all vegetarian. “Most of the non-vegetarian food in Burma has an overwhelming odour thanks to fish broth or shrimp powder, which even meat-loving Indians wouldn’t like,” says Ankit Gupta, co-founder, who was inspired by his Burmese lineage to start the chain with a childhood friend.

For starters, I sip on a Nutella Bubble Tea. The fat straw is meant to accommodate chewy tapioca balls that give it the name ‘pearl tea’, a drink credited to the Taiwanese. The hincho (soups), too, deserve a mention. The Indian influence is crispy clear in samuza hincho (samosa soup), which is exactly what it sounds like—a samosa dunked in tangy soup with black chickpeas, carrot and capsicum.

Salads (thoke) may be optional for most Indians, but they are integral to a Burmese meal. Baby sunflower leaves and wheat 120

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flakes come together beautifully in naykar gyun akyaw thoke, while shredded raw mango shuffled with peanuts and onion makes for a sweet and sour ode to chaat in tayat thi thoke. But if you must order just one salad, make it the Mandalay laphet thoke. I’m told that 80 per cent of the tea produced in Burma is used in making laphet (fermented tea leaves).

The starters are plenty and varied. Panfried rice dumplings are as light as they come. On the other end is the steamed bun with crisp tofu and coconut sauce. I’m told it’s a hit, but, for me, tofu and coconut sauce just don’t mingle. The one that stands out is shan tohu mash served with flaky paratha, which speaks as much about the dish as it does of my very Indian palate.

The menu has a separate section for tea with over 25 varieties, and there’s also a tea bar. A pot of Irish Cream black tea helps me wash down half the menu. For the main course, the chef brings me their flagship oh no khow suey. Most customers here come armed with little knowledge of Burmese cuisine, but they almost always know about khow suey. Black glutinous sticky rice with black-eyed peas and pickled veggies make up a wholesome, albeit sour, meal. But when it comes to stir fries, let’s just say I don’t agree with pandas on the scrumptiousness of bamboo shoots.

Among the desserts, the heart cooler (basil seeds, coconut jelly, rice caviar in coconut milk) is redolent of kheer and a smokey avocado ice cream is very

instagrammable (#foodporn) but will suit only hardcore avocado enthusiasts.

If you’re a vegetarian, Burma Burma is a great place to show off the sheer variety of cuisine at your disposal to that foreversmug meat loving friend. S-25, Second Floor, Select Citywalk, Saket, New Delhi, +91-11-49145807, burmaburma.in n

Essential Eating Samuza hincho Mandalay laphet thoke Tohu mash with paratha

sumeet keswani

restaurants

Kheer

T

he minute I walk into Roseate House New Delhi’s recently opened Indian restaurant, Kheer, I double back.

Is it really a part of the same hotel? While the rest of Roseate House is dimly lit by evening, a warm yellow glow envelopes Kheer, perhaps to reflect its vibrant Indian antecedents. The space itself is sprawling— it can seat 250 guests across four sections: the live kitchen with three tandoors and a chaat bar/street food station, the main dining area with wooden tables and multipatterned green chairs, bar, and the lounge.

Ankur Bhatia, Executive Director of the Bird Group and proprietor of Roseate Hotels, is here to introduce Kheer to us. He tells us how the

restaurant takes inspiration from celebrity chef Rainer Becker’s Japanese restaurant chain, Zuma, which, while authentic to its roots, has food updated for modern times. In fact, Zuma’s designer, Noriyoshi Muramatsu, was roped in to give Kheer a Zuma-inspired look. I am told about the use of old wood in the décor, and that everything here is Indian made and handcrafted—save the jaali (latticework) and stone walls.

Certain design elements stand out. An arrangement of square fabrics in different shades of red is found above the bar. The bar lies adjacent to a cabinet with dozens of alcohol bottles. The custom-made bells above the centre table, the rows and rows of spice jars above, and the intricate jaali, combine to create timeless cool.

And, finally, coming down to brass tacks—Kheer, courtesy of executive sous chef Anuj Wadhawan, goes for a unique interpretation of fine Indian food as well as street favourites. Dishes are pan-Indian, and the restaurant has no ‘first course, second course’ system; food comes to your table as and when it is ready. There’s also

the Zuma-inspired Japanese ‘robata grill’, used to slow-grill food over hot charcoal.

The jheenga machhalee (grilled lobster, served with coriander butter and lemon) is one of the nicest looking dishes to emerge from a robata.

I particularly enjoy the murgh malai tikka, with charcoal (which lends a smoky flavour) and served with red pepper chutney, the chukandar chilgoze ki tikki (beet and pine nut croquettes with a beetroot chutney; the standout among the vegetarian dishes) and the gucchi (morels, khoya and cheese). And then came the desserts, of which the badam cake (zucchini pudding with orange sauce) and kalakand tart (milk cake tart with caramel sauce) are my recommendations. Asset 10, Hospitality District, Aerocity, New Delhi; +91-1171558800; roseatehotels.com n

Essential Eating Murgh malai tikka Gucchi Badam cake

manek s. kohli

Mr MaMagoto

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f I say ‘Chiang Mai Train Station Noodles’, chances are you’ll know which restaurant I’m talking about. Mamagoto arrived on the scene some years ago with dishes handpicked by the proprietors on envy-inducing journeys into the innards of Asia. The flavourful names of the dishes revealed their provenance and evoked a satiety beyond the taste. The venture was met with loud burps and taut tummies.

And now there’s Mr Mamagoto, an ‘Asian brasserie’ which is a ‘slightly sophisticated’ but ‘still fully quirky’ iteration of the popular chain. Same, same, but different.

The moment I walked in, I knew faithful customers need not worry. With a graphic language inspired by ‘vintage Asia’, it’s similar enough to the old Mamagoto in look, feel and vibe, and, as I subsequently discovered, the food is familiar enough to not send devoted patrons scurrying. I had lunch in a restaurant that was almost full, so the crowds are certainly cool with it.

The nice people at Mr M ran me through nearly the entire menu which, by the way, is extensive. A friend recovering from typhoid who was giving me company and who had said he wouldn’t touch a thing, mowed

through the offerings with worrying gusto.

(A few weeks on, he’s absolutely fine, so it’s safe to say the food is typhoid friendly.)

The menu has been developed by cuisine director Janti Duggal, with an emphasis on modern Asian and lesser available Asian dishes. They’re ahead of the curve in showcasing Nikkei cuisine, that marriage of Japanese and Peruvian food that is pegged to be the next big thing. The menu has been divided into small and large plates, besides ample maki rolls, dimsums, soups, baos and tacos. Bursting with flavour, the Asian-style tacos included fried goat cheese, pork belly and smoked chicken. We loved the Saigonstyle chicken liver paté, and the sinusunclogging shrimp and wasabi cream. The stunning Thai puchka, stuffed with betel leaf and peanuts is a must-try. Other standouts were the Burmese curry pulled pork bao and, among the large plates, the Asian fish and chips, with coconut-infused mashed peas and potato wedges. The New Zealand lamb chops were tough, which they have no business being if they’re pricey as well, but we were too sated to care. All in all, a lot of fusion and bold experiments and more hits than misses.

They are yet to receive their liquor licence, but when they do, the bar will feature handcrafted cocktails from colonial Hong Kong, drinks like Chase & Status (Laphroaig, coconut fat washed scotch, ginger, honey & pomegranate syrup, lemon juice) and Kowloon Thyme (Thyme-infused vodka, elderflower syrup, homemade thyme syrup, lemon juice, soda).

Shop No. 102, First Floor, DLF Cyber Hub, Sector 24, Gurugram, +91-124-4960243, mrmamagoto.in n amit dixit Essential Eating Thai puchka and Hot Panookie, a choco-chip cookie made and served in a petite skillet, with ice cream

photo essay pushkar

camel A caravan of camels entering the Pushkar Mela grounds. Traders travel for days with their camels to meet serious buyers from all over Rajasthan at the world’s largest camel fair

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icious capturing the eternal charms of the pushkar camel fair. text and photographs by BHANU DEVGAN

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Clockwise from here: camels relaxing at sunset after a hard day’s work; the holy Pushkar Lake; and the famous, delectable masala chai of Pushkar 126

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he tiny temple town of Pushkar in Rajasthan, located to the northwest of Ajmer, is one of the oldest cities in India. It is a sought-after destination for devotees and tourists both, as, besides its interesting mythological history and timeless architectural heritage, it also hosts the world’s largest camel fair every year for five days during the November full moon.

That’s when thousands of camel traders, local nomadic gypsies, hawkers selling fascinating trinkets, tourists from all over the world and, of course, photographers descend upon this holy town in large numbers. Besides camel trading, folk performances, puppet shows, camel races, handicraft shops, moustache competitions, acrobatics and other similar activities make this fair part-apocalypse, part-circus, and one of India’s most electrifying travel experiences. And, somehow, in spite of the pandemonium, the city is calming, colourful, tranquil, and timeless, all at the same time.

Religious rituals like bathing in the holy Pushkar Lake are important too. The lake has multiple bathing ghats, and more than 400 temples surrounding it. The city is also home to one of the very few temples dedicated to Lord Brahma. According to legend, Lord Brahma dropped a lotus to the ground here, which led to the creation of a lake, and the naming of the site after the flower, hence, Pushkar. outlook traveller • december 2017

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Clockwise from top: an owner threading a rope through the pierced nose of his camel; a tagged camel for sale; and women in bright odhnis.

Facing page: a boy dressed up as Lord Shiva

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event | WOMEN OF WORTH 2017|

Grit, glamour,

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t was a night of celebration. Right from the resplendent jewels in the green room to the glamour on the red carpet and the inspirational speeches on stage — there was never a dull moment at Outlook Business Women of Worth. And the packed ballroom at Four Seasons, Mumbai can stand testimony to this. The evening kickstarted with two starkly different personalities, restaurateur Monica Liu and Lata Bajoria of The Hooghly Mills, enthralling the audience with their life stories.

We then invited an interesting trio comprising Payal Nath, Pankaja Munde and Zarina Screwvala — who helped us discover that the only place women must look for empowerment is within themselves.

The crowd couldn’t help but cheer on

glory Presents

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WEALTH PARTNER

In association with

AWARDS GALORE: (Clockwise) Outlook Business editor N Mahalakshmi, Vipin Sharma of PC Jeweller, Bollywood actor, Vidya Balan and Outlook Group CEO Indranil Roy unveil the 2017 Women of Worth edition. Women, child welfare and rural development minister of Maharashtra, Pankaja Munde is felicitated; Vandana Mohan of The Wedding Design Company, Sandhya Chandrasekharayya of Indiahikes, Aakanksha Bhargava of PM Relocations, Monisha Advani of Emmay Entertainment, restaurateur Monica Liu, editor N Mahalakshmi, Neeru Sharma of Infibeam, Vidya Balan, Zarina Screwvala of Swades Foundation, Lata Bajoria of The Hooghly Mills and Meena Kaushik of Quantum Consumer Solutions pose for the shutterbugs

incessantly as all our Women of Worth made their acceptance speeches. And then they watched with rapt attention as our cover girl, Vidya Balan, unveiled the edition and sat down for a candid chat with editor, N Mahalakshmi. No matter where they came from, each of our women achievers epitomise our tagline — They dreamt, They dared. And through their entrepreneurial journeys, these unstoppables inspired several more women entrepreneurs present that evening to get going b PHOTOGRAPHS BY SOUMIK KAR, VISHAL KOUL, APOORVA SALKADE

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STANDING TALL: (Clockwise) Vipin Sharma of PC Jeweller; Usha Ramoo, head, HR, Volkswagen Group Sales India; restaurateur Monica Liu, Lata Bajoria of The Hooghly Mills, Dr Umakant Tiwari of Organic India, CK Kumaravel of Naturals Salon & Spa; ASK Group CEO and MD, Sunil Rohokale; Bright Outdoor Media CMD, Yogesh Lakhani address the audience at Four Seasons, Mumbai

ALL SMILES: (Clockwise) Meena Kaushik of Quantum receives her award from Renuka Ramnath of Multiples, WOW2015; Aakanksha Bhargava, Monisha onisha Advani, Neeru Sharma and Vandana Mohan try jewellery at the WOW green n room

DRESS DESIGNER: SAMANT CHAUHAN

ENLIGHTENING VOICES: (L-R) Payal Nath of Kadam India; Pankaja Munde, minister of state for Women and Child Welfare; Zarina Screwvala of Swades and Laveena Iyer of Outlook Business on how women professionals can rise up to the challenge

LADIES’ NIGHT: (Clockwise) Aditi Kothari, Zarina Screwvala and Schauna Chauhan strike a pose; Vidya Menon, publisher, Outlook Business; Sandhya Chandrasekharayya of Indiahikes with the Volkswagen Passat and editor N Mahalakshmi shares a laugh with Vidya Balan

city shanghai

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a popular summer trekking peak, ladakh’s stok kangri is an entirely different kettle of fish in winter. teXt and photographs by SANKAR SRIDHAR 134

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Our pack horses, laden with supplies and necessities like tents and climbing gear, make their way through Stok village. The snow was thick enough for us to begin our trek from the roadhead in snow boots. Our shoulders were thankful we didn’t have to carry them, though we couldn’t say the same for our feet

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Our kitchen tent at Mankarmo, where steam, divine scents and a spirited game of Rummikub kept the cold at bay

Mama-dog joined us at Stok village and stayed on with us until we reached the first high camp. She was obviously a veteran on this trail, walking with us in single file

High winds create magnificent snow plumes atop the summit of Stok Kangri

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hat’s the one thing that evaporates quickly at the sight of steep snow-stuffed hills and horses wading through knee-deep powder? Thoughts of the 6,150m Stok Kangri being a trekking peak in summer.

As we found out over seven days in February, winter in this valley of Ladakh is a very different beast, especially when there are unusually high levels of snowfall.

Our journey, like so many others, began with support from

hardy horses and maintained momentum on the shoulders of an exceptional crew, tenacious team, and a friendly Mama-dog that saw us off at the first high camp.

Walking, eating, sleeping and chatting about walking, eating, sleeping, was all we did—through ever deeper drifts of snow, which, at as much as three feet thick meant that failure would always be an option. But in the same frosty breath, it meant bad photography was not.

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Two Tashis (left and right) and a Mingma (centre) hurry through the ropes of pitching the tent as a churn of clouds threatens to blot out the sun. It was nearly impossible to believe that this was Stok valley’s Changma, a place where people scurry to seek shade under the willow trees in summer

A lone cairn manages to raise its head above the deluge of snow as we make our way towards the summit camp. But for the curtain of clouds, we would have had Stok Kangri for company

city shanghai

A float at the immersion carnival with Maa Durga and performers 142

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Grand Farewell The immersion carnival showcases KolKaTa’s besT Pujos as SharmiStha Chaudhuri wiTnesses The grand occasion.

PhoTograPhs by manjit Singh hoonjan

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t was a three-hour extravaganza that brought down the curtains on this season’s Durga Puja in Kolkata.

Songs, dances, theatrical displays, beautifully adorned floats, creative idols, awe and gasps; that is what the grand immersion carnival on a well-decorated Red Road was all about. A brainchild of chief minister Mamata Banerjee, the carnival is meant to highlight the idols and creativity of the best pandals in Kolkata and its surrounding districts.

In its second edition this time, the carnival only seems to be getting grander with each passing year. With over 50,000 in attendance and over five million joining in virtually, it was a grand success. As 61 floats made their way from Fort William to the immersion ghat on Strand Road, spectators, which included foreign dignitaries and embassy officials, gasped in awe and appreciation as each passed.

Themed pandals are a major highlight during Durga Puja.

This year, they ranged from girl child education, underwater paradise, communal harmony, the fantasy palace from Bahubali

to the use of everyday objects like pipes, chairs, paints and brushes among various others.

As the programme kicked off with songs and traditional dances, every float bore decorations of their respective themes.

It helped viewers understand the concept behind the creation.

Organisers of each Pujo walked ahead of their respective floats, followed by musicians and dancers, as they greeted the dignitaries on the dais. Some had even brought gifts for the chief minister.

After the last float had passed, spectators began to disperse, satisfied with the memories. Red Road lay covered in flowers and confetti; art installations made with tiny colourful bulbs, very popular during Pujo, glowed in the evening, giving people the last glimpse of the festival. Durga Puja had concluded and it was time to chant ‘Asche bochor abar hobe’ (‘It’ll happen again next year.’).

See wbtourismpuja.in & wbtourism.gov.in for more details and download the Sharadotsav App by the Dept of Tourism available on the Google Play Store.

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1. A child dancing on Red Road during the carnival; 2. Performers put up a show; 3. Women performing with swords; 4. A Maa Durga idol; 5. Dancers in traditional laal-paarshaada sarees (white sarees with red borders); 6. WBTDCL’s immersion cruises offer passengers a front row seat of visarjan proceedings

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7. Chief Minister Mamata Banerjee with dignitaries at the immersion carnival; 8. An idol being taken to the ghat for immersion; 9. Women performing the dhunuchi naach; 10. Women dhakis stealing the spotlight; 11. Football, a popular theme to highlight Bengal hosting matches during the Fifa U-17 World Cup; 12. Another colourful performance

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Back of the 12.17… Time Traveller Book Reviews Book Time Pass Where on Earth? Picture Post n

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On The Shelf n The Grumpy Traveller edited by sumeet keswani

time traveller american museum of natural history, 1909 The good old way to travel back in time is to visit a museum. The American Museum of Natural History (AMNH) in New York, which opened in 1877, has hardly any competition when it comes to time travelling capabilities. The museum’s collection contains over 34 million specimens, only a fraction of which are on display. The biggest draw, arguably, are the dinosaur skeletons, millions of years old. (Although, strictly speaking, on display aren’t bones, but their fossils.)

But the museum’s most beautiful attractions are the ‘down-to-the-dirt’ accurate dioramas of natural habitats from around the world. Habitat dioramas are quite a tradition at the AMNH, and include venerable exhibits like the Leonard C. Sanford Hall of North American Birds and the Bernard Family Hall of North American Mammals. However, it was in the Akeley Hall of African Mammals that taxidermy and display methods were perfected to create extremely realistic scenes. In fact, Carl Akeley, who conceived the hall in 1909 and collected many of the specimens for it, envisioned the dioramas as providing glimpses of African landscapes as if through the windows of a moving train. Naturally, it was a sensation.

The hall’s 28 dioramas showcase habitats as diverse as the plains of the Serengeti and the mountains of the Belgian Congo. The scenes were recreated with strict attention to detail on the basis of field sketches and photographs and show animals in a specific location, cast in the light of a particular time of day. The paintings in the background were made using a special grid system so as to translate flat photos and sketches into undistorted landscapes on the curved diorama walls.

Contrary to what you might think, the collection of specimens and the creation of these dioramas actually raised awareness about nature and led to many of these habitats being declared protected areas. Akeley’s successful petitioning of the King of Belgium led to the establishment in 1925 of Africa’s first protected area, the Virunga National Park.

The dramatic herd of gemsbok depicted here hail from Southern Africa. And, for a moment, you travel not only in time, but space as well. See amnh.org.

AMIT DIXIT

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A Thousand Gardens Long ago, in a time before Maoists,

books

Hazaribagh was where grandfathers had summer homes. People flitted between the place of a thousand gardens and Kolkata. Malay Kumar Roy was

one of the lucky few who spent his boyhood in the woods and fields. He revisits his days in a place that remains only in memory. In his foreword, he describes mustard fields like sheets of gold, flaming trees alight with flowers, feathery clouds blowing across the sky, creating an idyll with words the way Bond does with Mussoorie.

Like Mussoorie, Hazaribagh was a British colony—the Brits left their bungalows and their names scattered over the area. After they left, the big houses were taken over by local landowners or those grandfathers from Kolkata. Once the scene is set, Roy moves on to the other facets of the Hazaribagh he remembers.

The book is divided between the locals who add their own touch of uniqueness to the character of Hazaribagh, the people who come and go, Roy’s mentors

in his youth, and his fleeting encounters with the wild. The people Roy describes are those who belong to the villages or work for the bungalows—a race that is now dismissed as ‘tribal’ and under the heel of Maoists.

The dairy man’s son, Sukhni, the obstinate maali who works for Roy’s father and the heroic tea stall boy are, in their own way, as colourful as the flowers scattered all around. The dairy man’s son, for example, refuses to do anything for anyone and has a dour expression on his face—dour being one of Roy’s favourite adjectives—until suddenly, one hot afternoon, he acts out of character. The bungalow maali ignores all of Roy’s father’s suggestions for the garden—like planting vine gourds for their white flowers on the front lawn—and plants sheets of chrysanthemums in winter, turning a deaf ear to all protests.

However, one moonlit night, the inspiration behind his obstinacy is revealed.

By way of contrast, the migrant population from Kolkata distinguishes itself by having something to prove. The Author, with a capital A, wants to come to cuffs with a dacoit but is an ignominious failure when push comes to shove. A trio of boys is determined to show what brave shikaaris they are, but when confronted by wildlife, they turn to jelly. Kolkata readers may be indignant at this blackening of the Bengali character, but Roy is presumably describing what he has encountered, and, in any case, the names are changed to protect the guilty. Perhaps it is in the nature of migrants to be irresponsible and condescending with the weight of sophisticated urban culture behind them, but nature proves to be a great leveller.

An Elsewhere Place: Boyhood Days in Hazaribagh

By Malay Kumar Roy (Speaking Tiger, `299)

Roy’s encounters with wounded foxes and a baby bear drunk on mahua flowers form one of the most fascinating sections of the book. The animals, in fact, have as much influence on people as people do on them. A lone wolf uncharacteristically saves Roy from a hyena, a katla fish is majestic even in death. The herd boy, Haria, is heartbroken when a leopard snatches his pet calf.

Hazaribagh, like most British colonies, had a Jesuit school, St Xavier’s in this case. Roy writes about his teachers and schoolmates, Father Cronin, Greg and Aditi, who modelled WW II planes and taught him lessons about the grace of flight and took his imagination soaring beyond barriers. In the end, that ‘elsewhere place’ sometimes seems too good to be true but certainly lives up to the title.

anjana basu

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On the Shelf W

e all love our spy stories. So, being privy to a diary of a spy is thrilling, to say the least. It’s as good as living the covert mission in real time, even if it happened over a century ago. Sarat

Chandra Das was a civil engineer who was the headmaster of a Darjeeling school. But beyond his day job, he was a spy for the British, who wanted to acquire intel on Tibet—then a closely guarded kingdom. Sent to Lhasa twice—for six months in 1879 and again in 1881 for 14 months—Das wrote

Journey to Lhasa: The Diary of a Spy

By Sarat Chandra Das

nuanced reports on his observations of the everyday life of Lhasa as well as the journey to it, leading

(Speaking Tiger, `350)

in the notes with their peculiar attire, customs, cuisine, etc. First published in 1902, Journey to Lhasa

through the treacherous passes of Sikkim and Nepal. The locals he met on the way all found a place reads more like an expert travelogue. This edition is an intriguing window into a world long gone, through the eyes of a spy.

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the Fuss about Queens and other stories

By Darius Cooper (Om Books, `250)

Bombay Minus Hope Darius Cooper’s worlD is not a pleasant place to inhabit. Its characters exude fear, loathing and various bodily odours. Its streets reek of urine and hopelessness. Its imagery involves masticating vultures in the Tower of Silence and other unlovely aspects of death.

The Fuss About Queens and Other Stories is a collection of 11 short stories, set largely in the Bombay of the 1970s—a city that runs on clacking typewriters and telex machines. Where irritable moviegoers queue up for hours and “aunties” sell illicit liquor. The Bombay of Cooper’s memory is a dreary place without laughter. Somehow, he has held onto the stereotypes and ugly details of the city in which he spent a part of his youth. The energy and redemptive spirit have drained away.

Readers encounter narrators from various backgrounds. There’s Neelkanth, a man plagued by a feeling of obsolescence, who wanders the city seeking a “metaphorical spot” in which to commit suicide. There’s Salma, a dancing girl, who accepts—after only the briefest protest—that her daughter will follow in her footsteps. And Pestonji, a septuagenarian who dreads his inevitable encounter with the hungry vultures in the tower.

This motley crew of characters represents an array of Bombayites. Some live on the 18th storey, others in tumbledown chawls; some are morgue attendants and others ambitious students. What is strange though, is that most of the narrators possess the same disgusted, weary worldview— which makes the stories tedious and repetitive.

Many of the stories focus on the “strange enigma which the world in general and India in particular categorises as the Parsis”. Here, too, Cooper slides into the realm of stereotypes: the Parsi widower who sleeps with his “gangabai”; the devoted wife who slaves in the kitchen, her fingers marinated with adoo-lasan; the finicky professor of English literature. Still, it is in two stories—’The Fuss About Queens’ and ‘It Takes Two to Bhagdig’—that the book acquires sudden life. It’s a real pity that Cooper didn’t employ the same humour and tolerance through the book. n

shabnam minwalla

a Decade with tigers: supremacy. solitude. stripes.

By Shivang Mehta (Niyogi, `1,750)

Stalking the Stripes

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hen A Decade with Tigers was unveiled in October by a powerpacked panel, including Mike Pandey, Valmik Thapar and Rajesh Bedi, the jury was split on the act of anthropomorphising tigers. While Shivang Mehta dodged the bullet then with diplomacy, his photobook owes its allure to the same trend. Divided into sections on tiger mothers and mighty males, further subdivided according to territory, the book tells scintillating stories of striped individuals who carved out a name for themselves in the tourism circuit with their frequent sightings. Journalist turned PR professional turned wildlife photographer, Shivang delves into his 14 years of experience with these characters, with candid anecdotes out of their lives. The writing is rather simplistic, but this book is mostly about its pictures.

Shivang is not a trigger-happy shutterbug; he chooses to wait for the perfect moment and strives for the right frame even when the subject is in plain view. It’s almost as if the stripes have rubbed off on him—he stalks the tiger much like the tiger stalks unsuspecting cheetal, waiting, lurking, and pouncing only when the time is right. This meticulousness shows in the book.

Having led hundreds of expeditions at the helm of Nature Wanderers, a nature tour operator, Shivang’s focus has understandably shifted to innovation. In the book, too, he declares that “the onus is on us... to constantly think of perspectives that bestow a new dimension to tiger imagery”. Some of his experiments do succeed, like high-key images that paint a greyscale tiger against a blinding white forest floor or the intentional shift of focus from tiger to kingfishers in the foreground, while others like the use of a tilt-shift lens look a tad jarring.

Corbett is Shivang’s favourite hunting ground, and this is where his genius shines. Declaring unflinching love for the Kumaon forests, he paints “the land of roar, trumpet and song” beautifully, taking poetic liberties with his frames.

To him, the Himalayan tiger is a different subject altogether due to its habitat.

Another standout section is the one without tigers. In ‘Denizens of the Tiger Kingdom’, he flaunts his vast repertoire—sloth bear cubs riding piggyback on their mother, a fishing cat against a starlit sky, otters in the Ramganga, etc.

Since two-third of the book is on famous tiger moms, the author has perhaps felt the pressure to cover all significant females. This has led to some below-par images making the cut , like in the case of T60 and her family, amid stunning pictures of mating, hunts and sibling behaviour. This raises a question pertinent to all wildlife photobooks—is the purpose exhaustive documentation or exquisite presentation?

The rare selection miss aside, the book is a great volume of creative tiger images and enrapturing tales—the kind that comes by once in a decade. n sumeet keswani outlook traveller • DeCeMBer 2017

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The Grumpy Traveller

SUMEET KESWANI

You’re in jail. saY cheeeese!

The lasT Time i was in PorT Blair, it was a Monday and the (in)famous Cellular Jail was closed for visitors. So when I stopped by the city this time, on my way to the exotic Havelock Island, I decided to pay a visit to the historic monument.

Before the Andamans became a haven for scuba diving, it was a place for punishment. The penal settlement was established in 1858 to accommodate the high number of prisoners that the Britishers took from the first war of Independence in 1857. The 693 cells, each measuring 13.6x7.6 ft, were specially designed to ensure solitary confinement for each prisoner here. The cells spanned over seven wings, which converged on the central tower like spokes of a bicycle wheel—a panopticon. Prisoners were regularly flogged and tortured for failing to meet labour expectations, which were set unrealistically high. Today, just three of the wings stand, and most of the cells are open—symbolic, I believe, of the freedom we have gained.

One look at the cells, bare white walls drenched by rains and reeking of dampness, and the mind marvels at the sheer will of defiance the prisoners here possessed. But it seems that I was alone in this solemn contemplation, for most visitors reacted to the prison’s grim history with selfies. Alongside a cell, in the white corridors of the wings, atop the central tower... everything made for a frame. One newlywed couple decided to up their social media game with the girl clicking the boy looking forlorn through the bars of a cell gate, all the

time pass

black beauty

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f you want to know more about a place, learn about its cuisine. What they eat, or used to eat in this case. Oranges instantly come to the mind when Nagpur is mentioned. What we don’t talk about more often is Saoji cuisine—the fiery speciality of the Vidarbha region of Maharashtra. From technique 150

to spices to variations in food items, this less-known cuisine is as unique as they come.

My introduction to Saoji cuisine happened during a particularly interesting interaction with Executive Chef Vinod S Dhawle, Hotel Le Méridien Nagpur. Tired of eating the usual rice, roti and naan, I asked the chef for some pointers to local food. This is when he led me to matka (or reshmi) roti and kadaknath chicken—two unique Saoji items one must experience.

So, off we went the next day to a lady who is arguably the one responsible for reviving the lost art of matka roti. This peculiar bread has lost its foothold in the food market in the past few years due to the

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while wearing outrageous hats. I could already imagine the distasteful hashtags: #kalapani #imprisonedforlife #thuglife Even Veer Savarkar’s cell, which is a celebrity cell of sorts here, was subjected to the same treatment. There was a beeline of visitors outside the tiny room, but inside, his photo-frame, prison bowl and plaque were used as props for authentic prison pictures. Any serious visitor had to wait outside while honeymooning couples took a frame they were happy posting, in the claustrophobic space.

Preserving a place of torture as a national monument makes sense only if it commands respect and introspection on our history and past struggles, not if it becomes a hotspot for Instagram posturing. Perhaps we can take a leaf out of monuments like Anne Frank’s House in Amsterdam, where visitors are stripped of their cell phones and cameras at the entry. There seems to be no other way to put an n sumeet keswani end to this selfie frenzy.

hard work that goes into its preparation. As I stood in her tiny roadside shop, I began to understand why someone wouldn’t want to prepare this roti on a daily basis. Lokwan wheat and water, and an hour of kneading, made for a

viscous dough that her expert hands transferred from palm to forearm to the inverted matka tawa. Thinner than tissue paper, the rotis then took seconds to cook over the hot tawa. The final product was a crispy, net-like roti.

To go with this rare roti was kadaknath chicken. Locally known as kali maasi (black meat), this breed is completely black—plumage, legs, nails, beak, tongue, comb, wattles— even the meat and bones are darker than red meat. This lean, local chicken is full of vitamins, iron and protein.

The locals believe it to have medicinal properties.

The last part was my favourite one, eating this scrumptious Saoji meal. n precious kamei

STAY GRAND. STAY COMFORT.

AAHARAM  VEG - MUtiTICUISINE 

VEG-FOOD COURT



THAARANA 

Mitii Ctitiferetice / Futictititi titititi

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where on earth?

Different rock layers react differently to weathering and erosion. a testament to the phenomenon, this peculiar formation is considered a playground for evil. two 40-foot-high limestone layers running for hundreds of feet downhill, 25 feet apart—this geological formation has attracted many eyeballs since it was first documented. in between the two hard layers is a layer of shale that is softer and more prone to erosion. first referred to as the Gutter Defile, the structure in the western United states later acquired its current name on the insistence of the local railroad community. the origins of the rocks can be traced back to sediments deposited in the sea that occupied this area many million years ago.

4name the structure and the american state in which it is located.

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russia

by Sumitra Senapaty

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by Neelima Agrawal

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8 letter From the editor 82 Photo Finish

Simply breathtaking. Germany is a paradise for walkers and for nature lovers with its formations, plants and animals of rare beauty and always somewhere new to discover.

Plan your next trip here: www.germany.travel/natural-landscapes

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letter from the editor

About those bucket lists Everyone has a bucket list going these days. And yet, they’re not really that old. The term was apparently used for the first time by screenwriter Justin Zackham in his 2007 screenplay for, you guessed it, The Bucket List. Until I started thinking about it, which was only a minute ago, I hadn’t considered that the premise of the term is somewhat unsavoury: it’s a list of things you need to accomplish before you, erm, kick the bucket.

On the bright side, maybe what comes after you kick said bucket is just another journey. (As a travel editor, I have my biases.) Either way, I believe that travel really is the best thing out there. In an evolving travel landscape, the next epic adventure or ‘ultimate’ fix is surprisingly accessible, often right under our noses. Just trust your instincts and start working on that list. n amit dixit 8

outlook traveller • DeCeMBer 2017

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hose in the know are already throbbing with anticipation. Come December 1, 2017, and the One&Only stable re-launches the new avatar of its hottest, or shall we say coolest, property yet—the born-again One&Only Le Saint Géran, that idyllic and legendary resort on the northeastern coast of Mauritius. What guests will love is that, while Le Saint Géran retains its sense of exclusivity on its own private peninsula with a beachfront and calm lagoon unlike any other in Mauritius, it has a slew of new enticements for the ultimate luxurious experience. “The planned enhancements will ensure that the resort continues to showcase what people have come to love about One&Only Le Saint Géran. The comprehensive redesign will amplify the already extraordinary experience of this cherished property…One of the original luxury resorts in the country, we have a strong commitment to the destination and have been working closely with the very supportive Government of Mauritius as we advance plans for the rebirth of the resort,” shares Philippe Zuber, Chief Operating Officer/President, One&Only Resorts.

The One&Only brand is a hallmark of excellence in the hospitality sphere. The Le Saint Géran resort has always been the iconic luxury retreat in Mauritius, offering patrons a rich, bespoke experience with the seclusion of a private

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at One&Only Le Saint GÊran looking to exceed guests’ expectations, it is aimed at also attracting island residents and visitors to the island of Mauritius. Tapasake, the overwater restaurant, serves up a brand new dining concept and will also include a new and unique signature: a chef preparing signature cocktails, a first for the island. PRIME, the celebrated steakhouse, returns afresh with a new water courtyard seating area and farm-to-fork experiences. The impressive wine cellar offers a dazzling choice of rum infusions honouring the Mauritian history of rum distillation. La Terrasse restaurant, relocated closer to the ocean, offers brilliant and new dining pavilions located over a pool. A heady new dining experience comes in the form of La Pointe, a beach restaurant at Palm Grove, at the very tip of the peninsula.

Spread over 1,000sqm, the redesigned One&Only Spa has transformed into a true wellness destination. To complement its partnership with ESPA, the resort has partnered with three well-known brands to complete the wellness offering: Biologique Recherche (facial treatments), Harmonia by Francesc Miralles (a highly respected Chinese medicine authority and practitioner), and, once again, the revered podiatrist, Bastien Gonzalez. The Biologique Recherche bespoke facial treatments are a first for Mauritius. Guests will adore the 13 freshly designed treatment rooms surrounding the pool and the new heat facilities including a steam room and sauna. An exciting new addition for brides getting married at the resort is the Bridal Suite, designed to pamper guests from head to toe for one of the most special moments of their lives. The One&Only Spa is complemented by the brand new and high energy Club One, a hub for all things active, including a state-of-the-art indoor and outdoor Fitness Centre.

It’s not for nothing that they call it One&Only.

And it just got better.

city shanghai

From

Russia,

With

Love

A cook takes a break at a station onboard the 12 outlook traveller • SePteMBer 2014 Trans-Siberian Rail

PHOTOGRAPHS: GeTTy imAGeS

Sumitra Senapaty goes on the adventure of outlook traveller • SePteMBer 2017 13 a lifetime onboard the trans-siberian railway

trans-siberian railway

I

did not embark on this ride with any hope for luxury and style. The Trans-Siberian train certainly does not offer too many creature comforts: primitive heating (coal fire), bunk beds, pelmeni and borscht for food and a lack of showers make for a certain kind of charm that doesn’t appeal to everyone.

The lack of internet connectivity and limited facilities for charging your phone are blessings, because you are forced to disconnect from your devices. But everyone seems to be enjoying themselves, possibly on account of some Russian champagne, along with snatches of conversations, interspersed with cat naps every now and then. It is getting back to basics in the best possible way. Without bathing, you quickly sport a new look, chugging along with unkempt hair and the bonhomie of a footloose spirit.

After a few days spent gazing at the iconic sites of Moscow, watching the Bolshoi Ballet perform Swan Lake, and marvelling at the luxe chandeliered Metro, it’s time to board the high-speed Sapsan to St Petersburg. Here, we hire a boat to traverse the canals the way Peter the Great did, see the aweinspiring Hermitage Museum, admire ornate Fabergé eggs, and people-watch on the bustling avenue of Nevsky Prospect. In total contrast is the long

Siberian odyssey in the second-class compartment of the legendary TransSiberian train, a journey that is set to take us across Russia and Mongolia.

Life in most modern cities makes you forget what excitement is. But onboard the Trans-Siberian, there is a huge smile on my face at the thought of being able to boast about this. For the rest of my life! The cushioned seats have bright green upholstery and clean, crisp sheets.

There are reading lights and a huge window. This is going to be our living quarters for the next few days. As the train leaves behind the city lights and enters rural Russia, the scene changes dramatically. We see small villages, little streams and few houses as the population remains sparse in Siberia.

There are Soviet-era buildings, most likely remnants of factories and depots.

I begin my journey arm in arm with Doctor Zhivago, believing that I will read

it cover to cover during my days on the train.

In reality, I don’t even manage to open the book, let alone read it, for I am content looking out of the train window and seeing the world go by. The dining car is, of course, my preferred spot on the train.

We stop at Taiga station for three minutes. And the train rolls on...

Like excited teens, we try to get off at every station but are stopped by the carriage caretakers when they feel that there is insufficient time. There is barely a smile on their faces, probably an acknowledgment that this area of the world isn’t always the easiest to live in. The winters are long and cold. The summers are short and, well, cold. But there’s life out here, in cities such as Novosibirsk, with its enormous Opera House and bustling local markets, and Irkutsk, with its gold-domed churches. The train crew stokes the coal at the carriage entrance for the fires to burn more fiercely, and our compartment gets rather warm and cosy quickly.

We stop at Zima station for 30 minutes. And the train rolls on…

Miles are devoured by the train, tall, silver birch trees standing guard along the way. People stop to exchange brief pleasantries, passing back and forth to the toilet or the samovar, where hot water is available all day. I had heard

The train runs on Moscow time, the stations their respective time zones.

Confusing, but of no consequence 14

outlook traveller • deceMBer 2017

PHOTOGRAPHS BY SUMITRA SENAPATY

The iconic Peter and Paul Fortress in St Petersburg; and (facing page) the tracks of the Trans-Siberian Rail outlook traveller • SePteMBer 2017 run along15the edge of Lake Baikal

trans-siberian railway The Milky Way seen over a ger camp in Mongolia

about the babushkas selling stuff on the train and on the platform, but nothing really interesting turns up. Here, time does not matter. The train runs on Moscow time, but the local stations are tuned into their respective local time zones. Confusing, but of no consequence, since one is bound only by the journey.

The only constant is the gentle roll of the train, the scenery that rushes past you, and the Provodnitsa (attendants), who are constantly sweeping and tidying the carriage. They check our tickets and are present when immigration officials enter during border checks.

The train stops at Irkutsk station for 29 minutes and, here, we break the journey. I have to admit that I look forward to stretching my legs, breathing 16

outlook traveller • deceMBer 2017

the cold Siberian air and, of course, the warmth of my hotel bed, quite a change from the bunk. While the direct train usually runs around once a week, there are several other trains that ply on these routes, so it is possible to break up the Trans-Siberian journey by stopping in cities across Russia. Irkutsk is an

important city in Siberia, displaying a stark contrast between the historic buildings of the old town and the Communist apartment blocks. I spot a huge number of different churches and religious monuments and also the oldest ice-breaker ship in the world.

We drive to Listvyanka, a small place

Lake Baikal is the largest freshwater lake in the world by volume, and has a unique ecosystem

Clockwise from top left: monastery and church of the Virgin of Incarnation; a Buddhist monk in Ulaanbaatar; vodka on a pier by Lake Baikal; and the Irkutsk station

close to Irkutsk, popularly known as the Gateway to Lake Baikal. Around 300 years ago, the village was tiny with a small post-office; today, it is a major tourist hub, well-known for its lake views and Siberian delicacies. Lake Baikal is one of Russia’s great sights: it is the largest freshwater lake in the world by volume, and has a unique and bizarre ecosystem. A laboratory of evolution, Lake Baikal is home to a variety of plants and animals found nowhere else. There is a myth that the lake’s water purifies itself. (Russian scientists think the secret lies with a tiny shrimp that filters industrial pollutants, of which tons were introduced during Soviet rule.) Baikal’s geography, its flora and its fauna are so unusual that Unesco declared it a World

Heritage Site. It’s also referred to as the ‘Galapagos of Russia’. Over 300 rivers flow into the lake; just one, the Angara, flows out of it, moving on towards the Arctic Ocean, somewhere far away in northern Siberia.

Since I am a museum person, a must-visit is the Baikal Museum. Here, I spend some time looking at the wonders of the underwater world in life-size aquariums. We examine rare exhibits of Baikal under the microscope and look at wild Baikal seals through a webcam.

Later, we take the chairlift up to the peaks to observe the lake in all her glory—stunning moments that will turn into memories for ever. For Russians, the lake is their sacred sea, more than 25 million years old. For us, it’s an endless

waterbody, stretching as far as the eye can see. Later, as the fog descends over the transparent waters, we devour the delicious and famous smoked omul, a fish from Baikal. Berries and pine nuts are other popular Baikal snacks, and yes, of course, the vodka.

But the journey must go on. After a day spent in Irkutsk and a night spent in a proper hotel bed, we board the train again, with 1,000 kilometres of Siberian countryside separating us from the final stop at Ulaanbaatar, Mongolia’s capital city. I watch for several hours as the train sprints close to the lake, many a time seeming to pass over its edge. Trees skirt the shore in places, but the water’s edge is largely barren, except for the rail tracks. Nondescript Soviet structures outlook traveller • deceMBer 2017

17

trans-siberian railway

Clockwise from here: silver birch trees en route; an American coffee shop on an old pedestrian street in Moscow; and passengers on the Trans-Siberian Rail

mar the landscape occasionally, white rocks line the shore, and there is a hint of a beach in some stretches.

The water’s surface is still, scarcely a ripple disturbs it as the sun continues to shine on. This is when the rhythm of train life truly takes over. It’s the joy of having nothing to do but staring out of the window without a thought. Within a few hours, birch trees give way to the vast grasslands of Mongolia. I think of Genghis Khan racing across the steppes on his horse. The endless steppe makes the world look limitless. I could sit on 18

outlook traveller • deceMBer 2017

SUMITRA SENAPATY

this train and go on forever.

We stop at Ulan-Ude station for 45 minutes. And the train rolls on...

The Trans-Siberian train sounds romantic and classy. It is one of the world’s greatest adventures, and a classic train journey through remote and farflung parts of the world. So distant, so barren, so bizarre. You could compare it to a life journey—starting with the pomp

and power of St Petersburg and Moscow, around glittering Lake Baikal, through the steppes of Mongolia and on towards the Gobi Desert. Naushki and Darkhan are some of the stations we stop at before the train pulls in early morning at Ulaanbaatar. I am a tad weary due to the lengthy and tiring process of Russian/ Mongolian border checks the previous night. I stumble out of the compartment

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trans-siberian railway SUMITRA SENAPATY

groggily, but the cold wind perks me up for the day ahead.

Here, I have the opportunity to observe a traditional society that has stepped into modern times. But as Mongolia changes, the past is still present. Good accommodation options are available in this city, alongside Buddhist temples filled with the chants of monks in red robes. This remote and exotic country may be on the threshold of radical metamorphosis but one can still see timeless grasslands with herds of cattle, sheep and horses, and their attendant herders, pursuing their nomadic existence as they have done since before the time of Genghis Khan.

I get a chance to explore rural Mongolia. Deep in the hills, huge rocky outcrops mark an otherwise featureless land. Mongolia is known for the steppe, this vast swathe of high-altitude wilderness dotted with the traditional white gers, or yurts, that the nomadic local farmers still live in. I peep into one

A fellow passenger on the train

of these yurts, a window into local life and cuisine. The ger, its floor lined with thatch mats, has the fresh smell of earth after rain. When thunderstorms roll

through the valley, I sit in my ‘little round house,’ and listen to the sound of rain. At dusk, the valley grows dark except for the lights from a few ger camps, glowing like strings of pearls. We walk to the top of a ridge near our camp and come upon camels grazing in the moonlight.

I reflect on the rhythm of the train that has been my home for the last few days. It quickly lulls me into relaxation.

It’s not just the rattle of wheels on rails—it’s the daily routine, the endless breakfasts in the dining car, the daylight hours spent reading or talking or staring out of the window, the huge dinners and the long evenings chatting with travel companions. Familiar wildflowers that grow near the train track delight me. We are here during a very special season— there are only 72 frost-free days in a year in most of Russia and Mongolia. Now that the journey is over, it is natural to look forward to a stationary bed and spacious dwellings. No, I do not weep, but I have some regrets that it is over.

# THE INFORMATION GettinG ther e The best way to get to Russia directly is by Aeroflot from Delhi.

Etihad also flies to Russia via Abu Dhabi.

Visa A Russian visa costs approximately `6,000 and can be applied for at the Russian Embassy in Delhi. For visa requirements and online application form, see india-ifs.com.

The process generally takes 10 working days. the tr ain jour ney >The full length of the TransSiberian Railway is 10,000 km. The main route stretches from Moscow all the way to Vladivostok, the largest city of Russia. The entire journey takes about seven days to complete, traverses through eight time zones, and crosses many huge rivers and, of course, Lake Baikal.

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But, you don’t have to stay on the train the whole time. As fascinating as the train journey is, sitting on a train for so many days can test your patience.

It’s recommended to travel a particular section of the route, or break up the journey with multiday stops in various destinations.

You can always hop on to the next train that passes by your stop.

However, you’ll need to purchase individual tickets for each leg of your journey and they can be bought not earlier than 60 days before departure. >You can travel on the TransSiberian all year round. Spring and summer are the most popular seasons among tourists. Trains are warm and cosy, but there’s no internet connection. Some of the train halts are very short—a minute or two. Ask the carriage attendant for the timings before getting off the train. >Russian train food doesn’t have

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the best reputation, and while the Trans-Siberian isn’t a gourmet journey, the food served in the dining car is generally good and not expensive. Most trains have beer, soft drinks and mineral water available. >The Trans-Siberian is safe for travellers. Second-class cabins typically sleep four people.

A first-class sleeper cabin accommodates two and has slightly better amenities, such as an armchair and access to a shower. Travelling third class isn’t recommended as cabins are typically open (no doors or walls), the atmosphere is slightly noisier, and you may find yourself getting nervous about your possessions. >Each train carriage has its own toilet and washroom. Showers are not available to second- and thirdclass ticket holders, so if you’re not travelling in first class, it’s best to bring wet wipes to freshen up from time to time. Toilets and

washrooms are locked when trains pull up at stations. >You should make a few stops on the trip, locations such as Irkutsk (for Lake Baikal) and Ulaanbaatar are the most popular. Having travelled so far, it’s highly recommend that you take a flight from Ulaanbaatar to Dalanzadgad for a visit to ger country. Highlights that you should not miss are the Khongor sand dunes, the flaming cliffs or Bayanzag, and the Valley of Yol. Do not forget to pick up a bottle of the famous Genghis vodka.

And visit the cashmere shop at Ulaanbaatar. >The price range for the TransSiberian is wide, as there is a variety of trains to choose from.

When you plan, consider your budget, but also reflect on the luxuries that are essential to you.

See seat61.com for advice on how to book your tickets.

n sumitra senapaty

An erstwhile pAlAce And A chArming retreAt neAr A world heritAge site.

AvtAr Singh checks out two vAstly different AmAn hotels in chinA

Two good ultimate heritage

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Women in kimonos overlooking a lake in Beijing

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he “new” Summer Palace in Beijing is part of every visitor’s highlight reel. You climb up through the various levels, stopping at temples, then you reach the apex of a hill and below you is a lake dotted with boats and fringed with trees, beyond which is a vista that takes in the colossal spread of the modern city and its towers. If you need something to visually contextualise this city, its imperial past juxtaposed with its modern ambition, this is the place.

Though it predates her, the Summer Palace bears the imprint of the redoubtable Cixi, the last dowager empress of the Qing dynasty, who tried to hold the crumbling empire together through the vicissitudes of the late 19th century with sheer force of will. It is grandiose, occasionally astonishingly ill-conceived— she had funds from the under-resourced imperial navy diverted to build, among other things, a marble boat—but always spectacular, not least as you walk the “long corridor” along the lake, painted arches framing the view on both sides. The entire effect seems natural, but is, in fact, entirely planned. It should come as no surprise then that both lake and hill are artificial, as are the islands to which the boats ply.

The one thing this place glaringly lacks is a spot where you can sit over a drink and think things over, to try and make sense of the sensory overload being in Beijing and the Summer Palace entails.

There are a lot of people about the place, each one equipped with a selfie stick. What a good thing then that through a nondescript door, which is opened by a smiling attendant when you call on the special phone—yes, I loved it—lies the Aman Summer Palace, a place steeped in solitude where you can kick back by a quiet pool while the other tourists sweat about unknowingly just outside.

This quietude is one of this hotel’s main points of appeal. It is located in what used to be an area for nobles and others awaiting an audience with the bosses inside the Summer Palace. It is best thought of as an anteroom, but within the larger precinct of the Palace. Since some of the original courtyard architecture had survived, it was used as a template to construct the hotel itself.

Thus the new edifices blend harmoniously into the complex they are part of, with rooms and suites opening into sunlit, tree-filled courtyards, the tiled roofs stacking up against each other in an evocation of their classical sources. The public buildings, the gym, reception and restaurants, are likewise made, with waterbodies tying them together.

Within the hotel—which you wouldn’t even notice from the road—you’d be hard-pressed to remember that the urban sprawl of Beijing lies without. In a 24

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Clockwise from here: at Aman Summer Place— courtyard suite dining area; a lotus pond; the Reflection Pavilion Bar; and the imperial suite bedroom

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Clockwise from here: a performer enters the pavillion at the Summer Palace; Kun Ming Lake; and a roof detail depicts the grandeur of the Palace

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The Summer Palace bears the imprint of the redoubtable Cixi, the last dowager empress of the Qing dynasty

sense, it has become the haven the Summer Palace was supposed to be. What a good thing that you don’t need to be a Chinese royal or high official to stay here.

You just need quite a lot of money.

If you have it, however, I’m here to tell you that a stay at the Aman Summer Palace is nabob-ish in other good ways. If you’re not an Aman-junkie, I should point out that this place doesn’t have the usual trappings of what we may consider luxurious—all the rooms and suites don’t come with butler service, the lobby isn’t gold-plated, you don’t get picked up or ferried around in ostentatiously badged cars. What they specialise in is a cocktail of equal parts location, good design, unobtrusive service, and bags of privacy.

To that end, the Aman Summer Palace is really friendly, without being obsequious. People seem generally interested in making you comfy, and the fact that my son was along for the ride just pushed it up a notch. We did the tea ceremony within minutes of checking in: after a wander around the grounds, we did a session with the resident master artist/ calligrapher. There is an enormous indoor pool— Beijing is mostly a cold city, so outdoor pools are rare—and a superbly equipped gym, and my wife will vouch for the spa.

The rooms are huge, equipped with enormous Chinese-style beds, while the bathrooms come with his and her vanities and deep free-standing tubs.

Outside, the family in the next suite had spilled over into the verandah, where they played cards and ate lychees, which they offered us. It was very convivial, aided by the fact that we shared a courtyard.

Over dinner that night—superb Chinese restaurant, though it isn’t local, but rather Cantonese—we were told that more and more people want to book the courtyards for small events, even cosy weddings. I can see why—in a city where space is at a premium, a special day spent here with flowering trees and “old” tiles and the sky above the stacked roofs will certainly live on after the sticker shock has faded away.

The small things work here. The staffers greet you by name, remember how you like your coffee, and suggest something else if they know what

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Aman junkies love the service detail here; and (facing page) restaurants in the old town at Lijiang,Yunnan

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The entire old town of Lijiang is a Unesco World Heritage Site, despite being levelled in an earthquake in 1996

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Clockwise from above: a lavish spread in Man Yi Xuan restaurant, Amandayan; the view from the restaurant, a Naxi minority group playing at the Naxi Music Academy in the old town in Lijiang; and the Amandayan Suite balcony

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you’re ordering isn’t quite what you think. It isn’t all champagne, of course. If you’re planning to see a bit of Beijing, you’re probably better off doing this as a treat for a day or so. The Summer Palace was meant to be a retreat from the city, obviously, and even today this little corner of the Jing is a comparative backwater.

The super service at the Japanese restaurant didn’t mask a completely anonymous meal. And I still couldn’t, even after I asked, figure out the lights in the room to my complete satisfaction. Also, it isn’t really set up for business—if anything, its Zen hush screams ‘put away your devices’—so if you need high-speed internet and the like, look elsewhere.

But if you’re looking for a haven in what is a confounding, exhilarating, exhausting city, this is it.

One afternoon, over a cocktail I’d gotten very attached to, my neighbour at the next table got talking to me.

He visits Beijing a lot and works very hard while he’s here. It had become a habit, he said, to stop by here on the way out. Why? We were by a rippling pond, an “old” pavilion across the water. Behind us was the carved building that housed the bar. Above us

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skittered the birds of summer, around us were trees, and there wasn’t a peep from the city outside. On cue, out came a smiling bartender, medications and refilled snack bowls on her tray.

Why indeed.

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he Amandayan in Lijiang in distant Yunnan is situated in a vastly different sort of city.

Yunnan is, of course, distant from Beijing. It isn’t far at all from India. It’s actually closer to Kolkata than to China’s capital. It was one of the centres of the old tea horse trail that historically linked China, Burma, Tibet and India. During WWII, planes flying over “the Hump” from Assam to resupply the Allied forces in Kunming would have overflown this place.

You can, in fact, fly directly from Kolkata to Kunming these days. Which is handy, if you only have time for one Unesco World Heritage Site and don’t fancy Beijing. The entire old town of Lijiang carries the coveted signifier, which is interesting given that it was levelled in an earthquake in 1996. In

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the immediate aftermath, the multi-storey buildings that had cropped up around the old town were torn down, to be replaced with traditional structures, with special care taken to restore the old streets and bridges over the many little streams that run through Dayan (the old town). This concerted effort led to Lijiang receiving the Heritage Site grant in 1997.

Now, it consistently ranks high in the number of local tourists it attracts.

It isn’t just the old town. Good weather round the year and crystal clear air—it isn’t industrialised at all—are powerful draws. This is a blessing for the local tourism industry and the many people who depend upon it. It isn’t so good, however, if you’re looking for some quiet time away. Again, the Aman—a much newer property than the Beijing one—is a haven, built on a hill that overlooks the old town. From this vantage point, you can admire the way the old town has “preserved” its history, which takes in 1,000 years and the many “ethnic minorities”—read, non-Han Chinese—that live here, including the Naxi group and, of course, the Tibetans, who have been trading

here for centuries. The town itself is fascinating, full of surprises and local delights like yak jerky, the Naxi tea ceremony, and community dancing in the little squares. There are gorgeous little cafes by the streams, and locals in full ethnic rig positioned just so for photographs. It can get quite raucous at night, however; Chinese tourists, even en famille, like their beers and loud music. Not so if you’re at the Aman.

Outside of town, in fact visible from it on a good day, is Jade Dragon Snow Mountain, which is actually a massif. There is a spectacular open-air amphitheatre—if it rains, open an umbrella—where they have local talent perform, including riding their ponies. The amazing thing is that the mountains tower up behind the stage. You’ll see people carrying canisters that look like giant bug sprays. They’re portable oxygen tanks. It’s up around 3,000 metres at the amphitheatre, beyond which lie some beautiful pools that are worth a look.

Again, there are a lot of people—this is China, and all those millions of people like to explore—but it is still quite wonderful to see. If you’re a trekker, this outlook traveller • deceMBer 2017

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The Amandayan Pavilion overlooking the charming town

Lijiang’s only functioning Taoist temple is at the Amandayan, which looks after it well is a good place to base yourself as you head to Tiger Leaping Gorge, part of the same mountain system.

Back at the Amandayan, there’s actually an outdoor pool, which is fantastic. Above it is a spa, which I made full use of and can heartily recommend.

The entire complex again reflects the unique architecture of Lijiang. The pool, gym and spa in fact make up one courtyard. There’s one restaurant, housed in a wooden pavilion, which serves European 32

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and Chinese food, including local delectables like the seasonal mushrooms this rainy high altitude area is justly famous for. I’m told Japanese tourists come purely for these little guys. If you’re a fungi fetishist, you’ll be in heaven.

The rooms are spectacular, grouped again around little courtyards. There’s a super little bar, with a terrace overlooking the old town. Also here is the property’s hidden gem, Lijiang’s only functioning Taoist temple. The hotel looks after it very well, and it is open to locals. The charming Kelsey was appointed my guide to the city when I arrived. Up in the mountains, she dug out a special picnic lunch that the hotel had prepared for me, at a place they’d identified earlier as a venue I’d probably enjoy. It’s the sort of detail that Aman junkies have come to rely on.

Beijing is now firmly on the Indian tourist’s radar, Lijiang much less so. If you have got the time, do both of them. Otherwise, pick one, and rest easy knowing that these dependably excellent hotels are waiting at the other end.

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ourism

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Trang, Andaman Sea

Discover Amazing Stories Adventure, fun and a party under the sun! Create unforgettable memories for a lifetime in Amazing Thailand!

Tourism Authority of Thailand New Delhi: (91 11) 4674 1111, tatdel@tat.or.th Mumbai: (91 22) 22020264 /65, tatmumbai@tat.or.th

CHINA

# THE INFORMATION

The Lijiang impression show performed by locals at 3,100m

GettinG ther e >BEIJING Air China (airchina.in) has direct flights from Delhi and Mumbai to Beijing. It isn’t a daily service from either city, however. >LIJIaNG There is a daily Kolkata-Kunming flight on China Eastern (en.ceair.com). There are daily flights, buses and trains from Kunming, the provincial capital of Yunnan, to Lijiang.

Lijiang is also very well connected by air to the rest of the country, including Shanghai, Guangzhou and Shenzhen. If you’re in China anyway and are looking at Lijiang as a side trip, it’s very doable. My favourite to book inland travel within China (rail or air) is ctrip. com, which has an easily navigable English site and English-speaking customer service professionals.

China is a huge country, and flight times reflect that. also, there are no real low-cost carriers in the Chinese market yet. Of the local carriers, my experience of Hainan Airlines is very good.

Book a window seat if you can—in the flight into Lijiang, you can experience, to some degree, what the pilots who flew “the Hump” in WWII did.

GettinG around If you’re at the aman, clearly cash isn’t an issue and you can afford their driver services. Otherwise, in Beijing, download the Didi English language app before you come.

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It’s easy to use and works like Uber, which doesn’t exist in China anymore. Be prepared to deal with Chinese-speaking taxi drivers, though. In Lijiang, you’ll have to deal with local taxi drivers. But the hotel will help you get around.

Wher e to stay >BEIJING Aman Summer Palace offers rooms and suites that overlook green courtyards (from ¥2,600; +86-1059879999, aman.com/resorts/aman-summer-palace) >LIJIaNG Amandayan offers three categories of contemporary suites (from ¥3,500; +86-8885339999, aman.com/ resorts/amandayan).

What to see & do >In Beijing, once you’re done with the Summer Palace, the Fragrant Hills are close-ish to the hotel. There’s a very popular cable car that takes you up to a nearby hilltop. It’s okay, but the park it’s in is better value for me.

Depending on the time of the year, you’ll get blooms, forests in leafy flame, acres of solitude, etc. also, across a road that most people don’t cross is a quiet little park that houses the memorial to Dr Sun Yat Sen and a couple of gorgeous, little-visited pagodas.

Most bucket-lists would take in the Forbidden City—known here as the Palace Museum, Chairman Mao’s mausoleum, and

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the excellent National Museum, all helpfully grouped around Tiananmen Square. The Temple of Heaven is close by. Explore the north of the Forbidden City by boating or skating (depending on weather) on the various lakes and then drinking on their shores. Walk through the old hutong (alley neighbourhoods of old Beijing), stopping at the hip new restaurants and bars, to the Lama Temple. There are many hutong tours—by cycle, on foot or rickshaw—available online. The Great Wall is about 90 minutes away. It’s worth a day trip if you want to do it right. >Lijiang is much more compact. a couple of days spent wandering around its mazy streets and canals should be enough. Make time to do the Naxi tea ceremony. The hotel will probably set you up with a trip to the Jade Dragon Snow Mountain, and the show at its feet.

If the weather allows, make time for the trip up to Tiger Leaping Gorge, as a very young and energetic Yangtse river—well, one of its primary tributaries—blasts its way through these mountains.

Wher e to eat >BEIJING The aman’s in-house Chinese restaurant is actually Cantonese, so the delicious duck there isn’t “Peking style”. If you’re looking for that, do as the locals do and look for a Quanjude

outlet, or Dadong. You’ll have to use sign language and point at pictures, but it adds to the fun.

Otherwise, eat anywhere on the street and you won’t go wrong.

Look for the delicious rou jia mo, which is essentially meat inside a piece of local bread. Noodles and pancakes are to be found on every corner, and also chuan’r, which is kebabs—especially lamb—which point to the significant Muslim population of this city. Beijing also has a full complement of European, Thai, Korean and even Indian restaurants, if you’re that way inclined, and, of course, the usual fast-food options. Winter sees chestnuts and candied fruits being sold by vendors. >LIJIaNG The food scene here is very different. Tourists tend to associate it with hotpots, so naturally that’s what is on offer.

However, if you have a guide, try the local dishes, which include yak and pork with mushrooms and local produce. The aman’s in-house restaurant is an excellent place to try some of these. avoid the restaurants on Bar Street—they’re obnoxiously loud and mostly crappy. There’s an atmospheric little open-air market that stocks, among other things, fried bugs like scorpions and bamboo larvae. Yak jerky is also quite tasty, as is the yoghurt that you can find everywhere. n avtar singh

city shanghai ultimate luxury italy Mont Blanc, the highest mountain in the Alps, has a perpetual sheet of snow on its peak

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Neelima agrawal falls for the charms of the italian alps in the border towns of Valle d’aosta outlook traveller • SePteMBer 2017

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Clockwise from here: Valle d’Aosta; the view from Punta Helbronner; and the cosy bedroom at Au Coeur Des Neiges

here is a certain magic in towns on the frontiers, the borderland zones with their rich history of invasions and conquests, the gateways through which traders and armies trudged to and fro, often succumbing to the charm of the region and staying put, where cultures blend to offer a smorgasbord of customs, cuisine and dialect. And so it is with Valle d’Aosta, which shares the Alps with France to the west and Switzerland to the north. It’s home to four of Europe’s highest mountains—Monte Rosa and Monte Cervino, or Matterhorn, between Switzerland and Italy, and the majestic Mont Blanc between France and Italy, and Gran Paradiso. Connecting the flatlands to Switzerland and the Alps, its political and commercial importance was significant in the days of yore.

We flew into Turin with Turkish Airlines, from Delhi via Istanbul. The easy navigability of the small airport had us quickly on our way to Courmayeur, the outlook traveller • DeCeMBer 2017

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A freestyle skier flies high as Mont Blanc looms in the background; and (facing page) Forte Di Bard once thwarted an invasion by Napoleon

elegant little town located at the base of Mont Blanc.

The scenic two-hour drive along the motorway, which runs parallel to the meandering alpine river Dora Baltea and crisscrosses it at several points, took us past the countryside. Aosta is littered with medieval castles and fortified houses, some carefully restored and now of great interest to tourists.

Bilingual road signs are in French and Italian, both official languages here, though most of the locals, I am told, speak the Valdôtain patois, which is an old Franco-Provençal blend not spoken anywhere else. Don’t expect to find any of the Italian or French stereotypes in Aosta.

Courmayeur is a popular tourist destination in summer and winter. The many thermal spas and

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ski slopes of Mont Blanc or Monte Bianco (white mountain) that stay snowclad year round have made it a ski-enthusiast’s paradise. But there is a lot more happening here, even for the less adventurous, sedentary sorts such as yours truly. To start with, there was the hotel Auberge de la Maison itself.

Located in Entrèves village, it was serene and picturesque with its sloping tiled roof, wood and stone exterior, bright flowers blooming in the balconies and a cosy lobby with a fireplace. The ladies in the staff dressed in the traditional dirndl, a bib and blouse worn by Alpine peasant girls, appeared to have stepped out of the many picture frames on the walls. The windows of my suite looked out at the snow-capped mountains. The skylight above the bed opened to a blue sky, the golden sunshine streaming in. And the winner was the jacuzzi in the centre of the living room, next to the window with the mountain.

There was also the thermal spa, which is nearly a staple with hotels here. I could have spent all of my days here reclining in the deep end of the jacuzzi, raising a toast to the mountain within reach. But the call of Mont Blanc was strong.

Not far from the hotel is the base station of the Skyway Monte Bianco Cable Car. It opened to the public in June 2015 and drew a lot of attention for its technical ingenuity, built as it was over shifting glaciers. The third and last docking point at Punta

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Clockwise from above: a ski cottage in the Alps; the façade of the Pré-SaintDidier Thermal Spa; and a wheel of Fontina cheese

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Helbronner, at a height of 3,466 metres, is the closest point to the summit of Mont Blanc. The structure appears straight out of a sci-fi movie, shaped like a crystal with its cantilevered terraces made of glass and steel. Hollywood captured it in the recent movie Kingsman: The Golden Circle.

The Skyway offers much more than a simple cable car ride, which I admit is quite an experience in itself.

The circular glass cabins revolve 360° all the way up to give an uninterrupted view of the mountains and glaciers, and are fitted with a heating system that doesn’t fog up, LED TV and audio, and have room for 80 people. The first station (1,300m) at the starting point in Pontal d’Entrèves, Courmayeur, houses the ticket offices, a parking lot, and a small café for refreshments. The cable car climbs from here to a height of 2,200m to the intermediate station at Pavillion du Mont Fréty. There is much

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to do here. In good weather, one can explore the Saussurea Botanical Garden, which was created in 1984. It is the highest botanical garden in the world, with 900 species of alpine plants from mountains across the world.

The indoors offer two restaurants, Hall ‘Dames Anglaises’ and the Hall ‘du Peuterey’. Another unique feature is an experimental high-altitude winery, which produces bottle-fermented classical-method Vallée d’Aoste DOC Blanc de Morgex et la Salle, “Cuvée des Guides”.

At Punta Helbronner, find the

bistro facing Mont Blanc for a snack, or visit the permanent exhibition of the crystals that are found in the massif of Mont Blanc. Good weather permitting, one can climb up to the open 14-metre-wide terrace. The view of the glaciers and Alps from here is breathtaking. A vertical elevator takes one down to a 150m-long tunnel, which leads to the alpine mountain hut or Rifugio Torino, a lifeline for mountaineers wishing to take a break or stay the night. To get a real sense of the mountain massif, we took a helicopter ride. The bird’s-eye view

of the toughest ski slopes, glaciers, peaks and the Matterhorn was breathtaking.

To be within walking distance of Courmayeur’s town centre, we moved to another lovely Alpine resort, Au Coeur Des Neiges, which had chalets and apartments across several buildings, along with private rooms. An indoor heated swimming pool and spa was much in demand at the end of a hectic outdoor stint. The city centre is a 10-minute walk, with Michelin starred eateries, shops, antique stores, music bands playing live, an old church and benches on the walkway to sit and watch the gentry. There is a certain elegance to Courmayeur, which has perhaps lingered on from the time it was the playground of the rich and famous. It is said that Courmayeur was once the secret holiday hideout for the Royal Savoy family, which owned the region. The 19th-century English poets John Keats and P.B. Shelley visited Mont Blanc outlook traveller • deceMBer 2017

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Guests enjoy the mineral-rich waters of the Pré-Saint-Didier Thermal Spa; and (facing page) the famous Blanc de Morgex et la Salle made in a highaltitude winery

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and raved about it in their poetry. Lord Byron, who lived in Italy for a bit, got lyrical about the Italian Alps in his famous poem Childe Harold’s Pilgrimage.

Such publicity hugely motivated the Englishman who holidayed abroad. After all, Courmayeur did enjoy more sunny days and better weather than France.

The masses flocked to Chamonix in Haute-Savoie in France to access the Mont Blanc. Today, nearly 20,000 climbers and skiers arrive on weekends, with easy and quick access through the Mont Blanc Tunnel that connects the motorway to Geneva airport and Chamonix in France in barely an hour-long drive.

Switzerland is 20 minutes away via the tunnel near Mont Dolent.

The highlight of the visit, for me, was the day spent at the Pré-Saint-Didier Thermal Spa. The warm waters, rich in iron and mineral salts, were known for their curative properties, and the region gained prominence in the mid-1600s. The spa resort offers many treatments such as mud baths, sauna and jacuzzi, but the most enjoyable were the three heated

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outdoor pools with whirlpool baths and a view of the Mont Blanc massif. Indoors, there are aromatherapy rooms, loungers, thermal baths, hydromassages, waterfalls, saunas, steam baths, salt rooms, etc. The lunch buffet of fruits, nuts, yoghurt and whole breads was healthy and sumptuous.

One must hand it to the Italians for the immaculate restoration of their historical relics, even as the modern requirements of plumbing and electrical fittings are carefully blended in. This was most evident at Forte di Bard, a fortress built in 1830 on the ruins of a previous fortification. With its strategic location in a narrow gorge at the entrance point of the Aosta Valley, on the western side of a rocky table, Fort Bard has a long history of ruination and rebuilding.

One such is about Napoleon Bonaparte who planned a surprise attack on the Po Valley and Turin on May 14, 1800. He arrived at this point with a 40,000-strong French army. His plans were thwarted by a small Austrian garrison at Fort Bard. Majorly miffed after several failed attempts, he laid a siege on the fort and

destroyed it. With changing times, Fort Bard fell into neglect and disuse and was abandoned by the Italian army in 1975.

Post restoration, it opened in 2006 as the Museum of the Alps. The central courtyard that was once a storehouse for armament is now used for summer festivals, film screenings and theatre. Artworks are on display in the dry moat. The structure is made up of three main blocks of buildings, set at different levels, between 400 and 467 metres. Opera Ferdinando is at the lowest level, Opera Vittorio is in the middle and Opera Carlo Alberto is the highest one and houses the Museum of the Alps. In the Opera di Gola is located the La Polveriera Restaurant and Café, which seats more than 90 covers. The 2015 movie Avengers: Age of

Ultron was shot here at Forte di Bard.

We spent the last day in Aosta discovering its history. The town is easily explored on foot. Once upon a time, it was an important Roman settlement which faced a regular onslaught and ownership struggles. Most of the heritage monuments were destroyed or lost to neglect. The Italians meticulously restored and practically rediscovered history. The 2,000-year-old Roman Forum, Cryptoportico, was lost under a shopping arcade, but was later dug up and restored. Just a wall and few rocks remain of the old Roman Theatre, but the focus has been brought back with art shows and performances in summer. When it comes to breathing life into the ruins of the past, the Italians have no competition.

# THE INFORMATION GettinG ther e >AIR The closest airports are Caselle Airport in Turin (115km), Malpensa Airport in Milan (180km), and Geneva Airport (140km) in Switzerland. Alitalia has resumed service from India, and Air India offers daily flights to airports in Italy. A private airport transfer takes two hours and costs approximately ¤200 from Turin airport to Courmayeur and a little less for Aosta. >RAIL Aosta is connected by train to the Turin stations of Porta Nuova and Porta Susa. Trains leave every hour. The main railway stations along the Valle d’Aosta line (Pont-Saint-Martin, Verrès and Chatillon/Saint-Vincent) are connected to the side valleys by buses whose times generally coincide with the trains. >ROAD Turin is only 55km from Pont-Saint-Martin on the A5 motorway to the Eastern gate to the Valle, 98km from the regional capital Aosta, and 136 km from Courmayeur. Milan is 164km away via the A4 motorway.

From the French and Swiss sides, one can take the Monte Bianco and Gran San Bernardo tunnels on the main SS 26 and 27 roads, respectively, or during the summer (between June and October) through the Piccolo and Gran San Bernardo passes. >Within Italy, local public

transport companies offer daily coach services to/from Milan departing from Cervinia, Aosta and Courmayeur. The coaches also make intermediate stops in Valle d’Aosta and in Piedmont. It is advisable to book seats for the coach service to/from Milan. A regular bus service also operates to/from Turin (Torino Porta Susa railway station, from which there are connections to the Caselle airport and the bus station in Corso Vittorio Emanuele.) In summer, the coach services are also available from other Italian towns like Liguria, Emilia Romagna and Tuscany, including Rome. On international routes, local public transport companies offer weekly services to/from Chamonix (France) departing from Aosta and Courmayeur, and to/from Martigny (Switzerland) departing from Aosta.

wher e to stay Located in the heart of Entrèves, Auberge de la Maison offers a beautiful view of Mont Blanc. (from ¤229 doubles; 0165869811, aubergemaison.it) Au Coeur des Neiges is just 300m from the ski lifts, and close to the town centre (from ¤230 in low season; 0165-843514, aucoeurdesneiges.com).

Maison Vieille Refuge, at a height of 1,956m, is accessible by

ski lifts. Open from the beginning of December to the end of April, it organises night snowmobile excursions. CONTACT +39337230979, +39-3280584157, maisonvieille.com

what to see & do SUMMER ACTIVITIES >Guides are available for rock climbing on mountain routes of Mont Blanc, Gran Capucin, Clocher, Chandelle, Trident du Tacul or Pic Adolphe. All equipment is provided by the mountain guides. You can also opt for sport climbing on bolted rock routes. Climbing courses are also available for indoor-climbing walls with routes from grade 4 to 8. >Courmayeur et Grandes Jorasses Golf Club hosts important tournaments and is open from June to October. It has a double-tee, nine-hole course of 2,690 metres, a driving range, pitching green, putting green and a club-house with changing rooms, bar, restaurant, snack bar, lockers and pro-shop. >Mont Blanc Adventure Park is open all year round. It offers a 133m zipline over the ravine, platforms suspended at different heights and linked by Tibetan bridges, Tyrolean traverses, rope ladders, swaying tree trunks, Tarzan swings, etc. >Sport fishing is available from

May to November. The Val Ferret Fishing Club’s fishing reserve is located in the Dora Valley, an area of outstanding natural beauty. >Bike-trekking and mountain bike tours are conducted in Val Veny or on the flat in Val Ferret. Mont Blanc Tour (by MTB) route by mountain bike covers 210km with a total vertical ascent of 8,000m and is doable in 5 days. It is a mix of dirt trails and asphalted surfaces. There are refuges and support points along the route; it’s advisable to book ahead.

WINTER ACTIVITIES There are over 30 ski slopes for all levels of skiers in Courmayeur.

Walk from village to village, the woods, or up the mountain to glaciers. Mountain guides are available for the same. You can hire snowshoes and go snowshoeing at night as well.

Courses are available for ice waterfall climbing. You can also opt for snow biking or fat biking on the snow. At the Ski Area Snow Park, all riders, beginners or advanced, can try freestyle jumps and tricks and try out spectacular acrobatics in safety with the 15mx15m ‘big air bag’. For details on service providers for activities, see courmayeurmontblanc.it or contact +39-0165841612, info@ courmayeurmontblanc.it.

n neelima agrawal

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pi s

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it th 's et im et o

ultimate food trip peru

ceviche, pisco, potatoes, and fine, unique spices. peru’s rich cuisine is all of this, and more. Priya GanaPathy pays a greedy tribute 48

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GETTY IMAGES

A large variety of maize cobs, or corn, displayed at Pisac market during the busy weekly Sunday market

The skyscrapers of Lujiazui loom over the clouds. In the foreground is the iconic Jin Mao Tower, outlook traveller • SePteMBer 2017

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will never forget my first taste of ceviche. Before I could dig into Peru’s flagship dish, my guide Pablo cried, “Wait! Mix it with a spoon. Taste it slowly.” Mistyeyed, his voice dropped to a whisper, “Ceviche classico is a dish that must be savoured. Taste the freshness of sole fish, softness of cooked cancha (corn kernels), crunchiness of fried corn and onions, sweetness of the orange sweet potato, creamy lime-y taste of leche de tigre (tiger’s milk) and Peru’s famous amarillo chilli or yellow peppers.” It is evident Peruvians are passionate about food. Entranced, I swirled the colourful ingredients together and scooped it into my mouth. A burst of different textures and flavours exploded within. Ceviche clearly has the potential to become the next sushi. Peru has even declared June 28th as National Ceviche Day! I landed in capital city Lima, ‘the gastronomic capital of the Americas’ and host to Mistura, the annual food festival in Oct–Nov (this year was the tenth edition) which draws gourmands from across the world. From there on, I practically ate my way through Ica and Cusco, praying that a trek to Machu Pichhu would work it off.

Three signature ingredients are recurrent in Peru—papas (potatoes), cancha (corn) and aji (chilli), which come in various avatars and form the backbone of Peruvian cuisine. You will be blown by the sheer variety in sizes, shapes and colours—red, yellow, purple, orange, brown, black, pink… round, long, oval, plump, thin… it’s practically a rainbow in the pantry. While agriculture has been the mainstay since pre-Incan times, the Incas elevated it to a science with their larger-than-life field experiments and open laboratories of microclimate terrace farming at Moray, near the ancient Maras salt mines that whiten the entire mountainside.

According to legend, when the mythical founders of the Inca empire, Manco Capac and Mama Ocllo, emerged from the waters of Lake Titicaca, the first thing the god Wiracocha taught them was how to sow potatoes. Potatoes

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Vibrant and fiery chillies are integral to Peruvian cuisine

PRIYA GANAPATHY

Museo Larco Café, Lima, a garden restaurant in a colonial-era museum; and (below) pisco sour topped with egg white foam

became not just a crucial food item but their very identity. “Soy mas Peruano que la papa” meaning “I’m more Peruvian than a potato!” is a popular saying in the Quechua culture which exalts the iconic tuber. They have nearly (breathe deep) 3,800 types of potatoes and have been growing them for nearly four millennia.

Can you blame them for being finicky about which potato goes into which dish? One variety, the yana piña, is full of knots. Cheeky mothers test the efficiency of new brides by telling them to peel it, hence its nickname ‘mother-in-law potato’ or ‘weeping bride’!

Another extraordinary Quechua dish, causa peruana is a delicious yellow potato mash cake, layered with vegetables, mayonaisse, aji amarillo (golden yellow chilli), avocado and

hardboiled egg topped with Peruvian botija olives. The non-veg version comes with tuna, egg, crab, chicken or shrimp. Interestingly, causa is linked to the very history of Peru as the dish was born on the streets of Lima. Folklore has it that sometime in the 1800s, the wives of soldiers fighting for Peruvian independence would prepare and sell this potato dish as a fundraiser for the ‘cause’ of independence. Others believe the word causa is derived from the Quechua word ‘kausay’ meaning ‘sustenance of life’, since the potato was the life-blood of ancient Peruvians.

Corn or maize too is sacred to Peruvians. They grow over 60 varieties that can be cooked, fried, salted or mashed… from steamed and stuffed dumplings called tamale wrapped in outlook traveller • december 2017

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Calamari and shrimp ceviche with mint

corn husk to delicious desserts like mazza mora made with purple corn or traditional drinks like chicha. Chicha morada is a non-alcoholic drink made with purple corn, while the fermented alcoholic version chicha de jora is made with yellow corn. In the Urubamba region and Sacred Valley, local chicherias (local pubs) often announce their presence with a pole bearing a red flag.

While villagers quaff chicha de jora like juice, to the unaccustomed, just a glass of this golden corn beer will get you tipsy.

While on potions, one drink all Peruvians rave about is pisco—a colourless to pale yellow drink made by distilling fermented grape juice to a potent brandy. Contrary to Chile’s claims and a debate that’s been raging for over 400 years, pisco was born in Peru in the 16th century. It was probably named after the town of Pisco, an old port on

a world-class winery. Sampling wines and local cuisine, accompanied by traditional shows like marinera dances, music and showhorses was a delightful experience. I tried a hearty plate of arroz con pollo o aji de gallina—rice served with generous helpings of spicy creamy yellow chilli sauce. Sauces or salsas also colour the Peruvian table. Made with chilli or herbs, they make great dips with potato or yucca chips—from yummy avocado mash guacamole to yellow salsa huancaina, herby green ocopa sauce made from aromatic huacatay leaves and crema de aji rocoto.

Another delicious speciality is alpaca.

The animal looks a lot like a llama, but is smaller and has a softer coat. I tried not to think of the cute alpacas I petted at Urubamba and Chinchero’s Urpi weaving centre when I placed my order.

Alpacas were a domesticated species of

place, like the restaurant at the historic archaeological complex of Huaca Pucllana, overlooking the magnificent 15-acre pre-Inca ruins or the creeperriddled Museo Larco Café in Lima. Here, I tried tres leche, literally ‘three milks cake’—a typical Peruvian dessert of sponge cake soaked in condensed milk, reduced milk and heavy cream besides a golden mousse de lucuma made from the exotic buttery fruit.

At the high-end restaurant Senzo at the Palacio Nazrenas hotel, set in the inner courtyard of a heritage monastery complex in Cusco, the colonial ambience adds to the magic. I savoured cuy (guinea pig) as part of a five-course tasting menu and could see why it was reserved for special occassions. At Cathedral Basilica, Marcos Zapata’s gigantic 1753 painting depicts The Last Supper with the cuy as the main course on the long table!

With the mighty Pacific lapping its shores, Peru offers an incredible bounty of seafood the Peruvian coast, though pisco is also Quechua for ‘bird’. The famous pisco sour, a classic South American cocktail that originated in Lima, is Peru’s national drink made with pisco, egg white, lime juice, simple syrup and Angostura bitters. They even had a remedy if you drank too much. Adobo, tagged as the perfect hangover meal, is a wholesome soup of pork chops simmered with onions, rocoto, purple corn, garlic and Peruvian spices!

With the mighty Pacific lapping its shores, Peru offers an incredible bounty of seafood. In the surreal desert region of Ica, I tucked into bowls of fresh Lima bean salad and pulpito candelabro (grilled baby octopus) between sips of Inca Cola at La Hacienda Bahia Paracas’ restaurant El Coral.

Vina Tacama, South America’s oldest vineyard, dating to the 16th century, evolved from an Augustine nunnery to

camelids central to the Quechua lifestyle.

Bred mainly for their fleece and pelt which women wove into luxuriously soft woollens, alpacas are also often culled for meat. Alpaca red meat is tender, lean, low in cholestrol and high in protein, tasting like a sweeter version of venison or goat.

Every visitor is impressed by the manner in which food is served in Peru.

It’s as much presentation as prepartion.

Chef Gaston Acurio’s restaurant Chicha has a tasting menu that will blow you away with its flavours, textures and exquisite plating style—tartar de alpaca with a mushroom vinaigrette, lechon crocante (crunchy piglet) swimming in its own juices served with potato and apples, soft lamb pita with muna (Andean mint), cucumber yoghurt and candied sacha, ceviche de valley with trout tarwi artichokes... it didn’t stop.

Nothing’s better than discovering the tastes of Peru in an atmospheric

MAP Café, a courtyard restaurant in the Pre-Columbian Art Museum in Cusco, serves Peruvian food with French and Italian touches. Quechua men knitted traditional woolen caps as the steward wowed us with capchi de setas, a soup of Andean setas, mushrooms, fava beans and pariah cheese. It came veiled with a sheet of dough that was dramatically opened! This was followed by delicious pork leg, slow cooked for 12 hours in Cusconean adobo sauce, resting on a soft bed of sweet potato mousselline l’orange.

With great music, a pisco sour bar and a fab view of Cusco’s remarkable churches, fountain and atmospheric central square Plaza de Armas, Limo is quite the place. I devoured grilled alpaca tenderloin daubed with elderberry sauce and yellow chilli quinoa risotto, and Andean tiradito (wild trout with rocoto, Andean lake seaweed and sachtomate sauce), besides suckling pig cheek. outlook traveller • december 2017

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peru PHOTOGRAPHS BY PRIYA GANAPATHY

And I meAn completely gone

A vendor in Lima selling Peruvian snacks; and (facing page) on the Hiram Bingham train to Machu Pichhu

High up at El Parador de Moray restaurant with lilting tunes of the Andean harp wafting over the Moray terraces, we had a traditional buffet spread of lechon (pork) roast, trucha ala sal (trout cooked with salt), pollo horniado (oven-cooked chicken), quinoa tabbouleh, ollucas ragout, humitas (sweet tamales) and desserts like arroz con leche (akin to rice kheer) and mazza morra. The Belmond Hiram Bingham luxury train along the legendary route from Ollantaytambo to Machu Pichhu presented 1920s style grandeur. Imagine polished wood and gleaming brass fittings, champagne, exotic fare like Wayllabamba’s smoked trout and grilled tenderloin beef, with unparalleled views 54

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of the Andes and meandering rivers on a voyage to the Inca empire.

In the streets, we encountered smiling vendors with packets of fried corn, yucca chips and coca leaves or trays of churros, a delicious fried dough stick that can be eaten plain or with a filling of chocolate or dulce de leche.

Food is so integral to Peruvian life that it infuses their slang with phrases related to fruits or food. Christina Maria, our Peruvian companian giggled and said, “A handsome hunk is called ‘churro’.

When a girl is skinny we have a phrase that means ‘put some extra potato in her soup’!” For a glimpse into what locals eat, wander around the San Pedro Market in Cusco. Be warned, it’s not for the faint-

hearted. Alongside crafts, apparel and souvenirs, you will encounter a mindnumbing assortment of breads bigger than your head, jug-sized servings of fresh-pressed juices, speckled quail eggs, various animal heads, pickled snakes and roasted guinea pigs stacked in buckets!

Chef Uriel Alfares, from Gaston Acurio’s Chicha restaurant in Cusco, attributes the universal appeal of Peruvian cuisine to the unique spices, produce and the fact that chefs are increasingly experimenting with indigenous products and traditional dishes and techniques. This boutique restaurant can seat only 22 people at a time, yet sees over 300 people streaming through the day! “The exciting thing is the freedom to do fusion cuisine with ingredients from other countries like India and Spain. We have the produce, the passion, the instruments and tools,” confessed Chef Uriel.

Each region in Peru has something special to offer. Chef Uriel elaborated, “In Cusco, lima beans salad and adobo are popular. In Lima, it’s ceviche, suspiros and picarones, a special kind of doughnut made with sweet potato, a Moorish influence. In Arequipa, it is rocoto relena and pastel de papa. Mazza mora is made of chicha, or maize with cinnamon, pineapple and sweet potato flour—mazza indicates ‘dough’ and mora denotes the Moors from Spain. There is a lot of Spanish influence in traditional Andean dishes.” Traditionally, the Incas didn’t know about oil and only boiled their foods; frying as a cooking technique was introduced by the Spanish.

Peruvian cuisine is a mirror of its rich ethnic mix—native Indians like the Quechua, Spanish conquistadores, Moorish cooks who came on ships, African slaves, Chinese indentured workers and Japanese immigrants who arrived in the 20th century; all have put their stamp on Peru’s food. At Maido, Chef Mitsuharu Tsumara’s speciality Nikkei cuisine fuses local Peruvian with Japanese food created by Japanese immigrants. Most of them arrived in the 1900s to work on sugarcane farms. Even the Chinese integrated into Peruvian

society and contributed to the popular chifa culture. Our guide laughed saying, “You’ll find a chifa restaurant in every corner of my village!” Lomo saltado montado is the perfect example of Peru’s rich fusion cuisine. Traditionally a chifa dish, served with a heap of white rice, fried egg and fries, it was beef saltado (stir-fried in a wok), a technique

introduced by the Chinese.

Peru has doggedly promoted culinary tourism for the last 15 years by participating in food fairs and festivals.

According to Christina Maria, “Food is not only food… it is an entire food chain critical to the Peruvian economy— producers, farmers, the market, the produce. Before the 1980s, quinoa was

what we fed to chickens! Now people are aware of its nutritional value and it’s everywhere… We always knew our food was great. Today, we’re just showcasing it better to the world. About 20 per cent of people coming to Peru are culinary tourists… they come only to eat!”

I think I just increased the percentage and my waistline a bit.

# THE INFORMATION GettinG there International airlines like Air France and British Airways operate regularly to Peru’s capital Lima via Paris, Amsterdam, London, Madrid and Miami. Paracas is a 4hr drive (261km) south of Lima along the Pan-American Highway. It is 22km south of Pisco. There are over 35 daily flights from Lima to Cusco (approx. 1hr20min) operated

by Peruvian Airlines, LATAM, Avianca, LC Peru. where to stay LIMA La Hacienda Milaflores (From US$140 doubles;

hoteleslahacienda.com) PARACAS Bahia Paracas Hotel (From US$220 doubles; hoteleslahacienda.com) CUSCO Aranwa Sacred Valley Hotel & Wellness (From approx.

US$260 doubles; aranwahotels.com)

where to eat LIMA >Museo Larco Café Restaurant (Avenida Bolivar 1515, Lima 21; Ph: +51 1-4624757) >Huaca Pucllana (8 General Borgono Cuadra, Lima 27; +5114454042) >Maido (399 Calle San Martin,

Corner Calle Colon, Lima 18; +511-4462512) >La Mar (Av La Mar 770, Milaflores; +51 1-4213365) >Central (Calle Santa Isabel 376, Miraflores, Lima 15074; +511-2428515) PARACAS/ICA >El Coral (Hacienda Bahia Paracas Hotel, Urb. Sto Domingo Lote 25, Paracas, Pisco; +51-56581370) >Vina Tacama (Ica; +5156581030, tacama.com) CUSCO/SACReD VALLey >Limo (Cochina Peruana & Pisco Bar, Portal de Carnes 236, Cusco; +51-84-240668)

>Senzo (Belmond Palacio Nazarenas, Calle Palacio 144, Cusco; +51-84-582222; belmond.com) >Chicha (Heladeros 261, Cusco 08000, Cusco; +51-84-240520; chicha.com.pe) >MAP Café (Casa Cabrera, Plazoleta Nazarenas 231, Museo de Arte Precolombino, Cusco; +51-84-242476) >El Parador de Moray (Fundo Moray, distrito de Maras, Cusco; +51-84-242476) For more information visit peru.travel. n priya ganapathy

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ultimate photo journey tibet

The Lakes

in Winter

ht erlooks, are a moving sig ov it s ke la o tw e th d an ll mt kailash, ographs by milan moudgi ot ph d an xt te . rs ve lie be even for un

has Tal, that the mountain faces

sh, it is the lake adjacent to it, Raks

iation with Mt Kaila Despite Manasarovar’s strong assoc

and is linked to

tibet

I

t is hard not to be taken in by the energy of Kailash-Manasarovar.

Even an atheist like myself was drawn back again and again, compelled, it seemed, by forces I did not quite comprehend. Only someone who has been there can understand this draw.

Over the years I made trips to locate the sources of the four rivers, view Kailash’s east face, do the inner parikrama, cross the Khado Sanglam La, and visit a host of significant places linked to the myth of Meru—that colossal mountain at the centre of Creation, of which Kailash is supposed to be the earthly manifestation.

Somewhere, caught up in all this energy, I came upon an account of the freezing of the lakes Manasarovar and

Rakshas Tal in the writings of the eclectic Swami Pranavananda. A regular visitor to the region, he witnessed the event in the winter of 1936–37, during a year-long stay at Thugolho Gompa.

The Swami rose on December 28, 1936, sensing something had happened— “There was pin-drop silence everywhere.

Like the eternal silence of Nirvana there was perfect stillness all around.”

Climbing up to the monastery’s terrace, he realised that the lake had frozen a mile from the shore. (Two days later, the entire lake turned solid.) With this “there had descended a thorough change in the whole atmosphere (physical, mental and spiritual)”. The experience moved him deeply. “Tears of joy trickled down the cheeks, only to be

frozen on the parapet.”

His description of the frozen lakes, and his adventures that winter had me hooked! Can lakes that size freeze over?

Quite unimaginable. Yet, he said they do, and, what’s more, solidly enough to support the weight of a human being. He made a tentative crossing on foot across the northwest corner of Manasarovar, but later visited two islands in Rakshas Tal, during a journey across the lake, that he made riding a yak! This had to be experienced to be believed.

In 2006, after years of trying, I finally got a permit, and made my way to this corner of southwest Tibet. These are images from that visit. And, yes, the experience was every bit as magical as the Swami described.

A family of nomads takes a break during their kora, at the southwest edge of Manasarovar. The only people you see during a winter visit to Kailash are a few locals gaining merit by circumambulating the lake

For the three inhabitants of Gossul Gompa, Manasarovar, 100ft below the monastery, is their only source of water

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PHOTO ESSAY

Looking west across Rakshas Tal, from the top of Lachato, which is the island in its centre

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PHOTO ESSAY

Rinzin Motup, one of the two monks at Gossul Gompa, meditates in a ghostly chamber illuminated only through a small opening in its roof and the soft light of a few butter lamps

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Only five of the seven monaste ries around Manasarovar hav e been rebuilt after they were during the Cultural Revolution destroyed

We were grateful to the monks at Gossul Gompa for allowing us to stay at the monastery for two nights

PHOTO ESSAY

A mani wall at Seralung Gompa watches over the grand spectacle of frozen Manasarovar from its northeastern corners 64

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city shanghai

No matter what you’ve read about the Highlands, nothing quite prepares you for your first encounter with Landmannalaugar 66

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Land The

t ime Forgot that

crisscrossing around the highlands of iceland, climbing a mountain or a crag, and letting fate guide you to the northern lights. text and photographs by sonia nazareth outlook traveller • SePteMBer 2017

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iceland

Clockwise from here: Veidivotn looks photoshopped into existence; Haifoss waterfall in all its glory; we trekked up Mount Blahnjukur, where a breathtaking view awaited us

T

he Icelandic Highlands are initially memorable for all the things that they are not. Most of the roads to this desolate expanse of uninhabited landscape in the middle of the country are closed in the winter. There are few accommodation options. This is not a part of the world that offers hospitable services or guarantees of any kind. The mobile network is scarce. Isolation looms large.

The soundtrack to any experience here is almost certainly silence. We know we will be challenged; but that’s precisely why the beloved and I, after weeks of travelling through Iceland, feasting on nature’s opera, are determined to seek the Highlands out.

It becomes clear from the outset— 68

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this ‘nothing’ in the middle of Iceland, is more absolute than elsewhere.

Everywhere the eye looks is a feature, a detail. Here a crater. There a black sand desert. Everywhere glacial moraine, hot springs, a congregation of active and spent volcanoes, an assortment of climbable crags, and vegetation in colors like goblin-green and over-bright pink— that look forged out of a fairytale. Our conversation involves bandying about words like tephra (solid matter ejected into the air by an erupting volcano), moraine (a ridge of boulders, clay and sand deposited by a glacier), and scoria (volcanic gravel that has cooled rapidly, creating a glassy surface.)

A four-wheel drive all-terrain vehicle (with some of the air let out of the tires

to increase traction) is as essential as our sturdy walking shoes to negotiate the gravel roads and un-bridged streams.

Haifoss—the third tallest waterfall in Iceland—on the edge of the Highlands, is our first stop. The wind is strong and there are no safety lines, so we operate our tripods with heightened caution at the cliff’s edge. And that’s the other notable thing about being here—there’s nothing to obscure your view. There’s no one selling you anything, or offering to take your picture for a fee. There’s only the exuberant waterfall, challenging you to get as close to the cliff’s edge as you dare. Leading us further off the straight and narrow, the nearby double waterfall Hjalparfoss and a garden-of-Eden lookalike in the form of Pjorsardalur valley beckon.

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We perch on a crag for twenty minutes of a spectacular sunset—with rays that render the earth and clouds, lustrous Onward into the Highlands we drive.

Blahylur is the first crater lake we confront. As the name suggests, these lakes are formed in volcanic craters or calderas. You’d be hard-pressed to find another person here. As far as the eye can see, it’s a vast desolate expanse of green mossy soil, bright blue water and brown earth. The only feature that punctuates what can best be described as ‘God’s own minimalism’, is the congregation of sheep that can be found just about as commonly as superlative waterfalls in the country.

But no matter what you’ve read 70

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about the Highlands, nothing quite prepares you for your first encounter with Landmannalaugar. Ornamented and barnacled with geological features that look forged out of some deep subconscious—from multicoloured rhyolite (light-coloured, fine-grained volcanic rock) mountains, to gloriously bright-green lava fields, broken-up by winding blue rivers and streams, the area takes our breath away—literally.

For, as the guide suggests, a good way to change perspective is to climb a crag or mountain. We pick the blue-black

coloured (due to volcanic ash and lava flows) Mount Blahnjukur volcano to trek up, for a sweeping overview of the surrounding mountains and valley.

I huff and puff, negotiating the steep carpet of gravel and small rocks that lie strewn in my path. The views—as we turn each bend, only to be introduced to further terrain to surmount—induce in me a feeling of vertigo, and I beg like a pauper for the last drops of water from our bottle. But I’d do the trek again in a heartbeat. Every few minutes, the colours of the attendant hills morph, and

The Edenic Pjorsardalur Valley; and (facing page) the isolated and colourful expanse of Brahylur Crater lake

patches of light creep atop the plateaus.

In this beautiful but ruthless landscape, that has no regard for your bank balance or Instagram following, it’s best to stay in pairs, aware of those you’re travelling with, for it’s likely that they’re the only help available in the immediate vicinity, should the need arise.

We perch on a crag for 20 minutes of a spectacular sunset, with rays that render the earth and clouds that they stream through, lustrous. Meditating here, seated upon a carpet of volcanic black sand, against varying colours of

green moss, it leaps to mind—if you’re even remotely familiar with the rich Icelandic tradition of literature, you’ll know at once where the inspiration for the country’s rich artistic heritage came from. Of course, this includes everything—from medieval prose sagas to contemporary Nordic literature to the band Sigur Ros. We smile at the narration of an epic tale involving werewolves, trolls and ghosts, but the guide frowns at us. You’re in Iceland— here you take these things seriously.

Appetite worked up from all that

trekking, we drive to our hotel (one of a smattering in these parts, apart from the campsites). Like most structures, it is low-rise and doesn’t try to compete with the landscape in which it’s set. The focus is a neat, clean functionality. We assume that we’re finally going to get to try some hearty Icelandic fare—traditionallycured fish, vegetables fermented in brine and served with dense, dark-and-sweet rye bread—but nature has her way again.

The Northern Lights or the Aurora Borealis (that form when solar flares are drawn by the earth’s magnetic field outlook traveller • december 2017

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iceland

The Northern Lights or the Aurora Borealis are a wonder of the higher latitudes; and (facing page) characteristically stocky Icelandic sheep punctuate the vast landscape

towards the North Pole), have decided to dance for us. An experienced guide takes the weather forecast and personal experience into account when deciding where to go for this magical display of light; but what you end up seeing is ultimately (like many of a journey’s best experiences) down to fate and good luck.

We drive to the outskirts of the Highlands—to Gullfoss or the Golden falls, located in the canyon of the Olfusa

River, keen to have a setting to be illuminated by, beneath the Northern Lights. And truth be told, Gullfoss exerts her own siren call. Situated between basalt columns, this is ample proof—if proof were needed—that water is the world’s most dynamic architect. We stand for hours in the cold, negotiating the perfect spot to park our tripod, dressed like self-regulating ecosystems.

But with the otherworldly glow of lights

With the otherworldly lights shimmying in the sky, I forget that my nose is falling off with the cold 72

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shimmying in the sky, I forget that my nose is falling off with the cold, that I can’t feel my fingertips. All the sensation that I care about is the one conjured by the ethereal colours that illuminate the sky and the waterfalls— green, violet and occasionally purplish-red.

The next morning we drive to another world—that looks straight out of a travel brochure cover shoot.

We are heading to Veidivotn, an area punctuated by desert lakes in a volcanic basin. Along the way, we bump into a superlative view of Mount Hekla, one of the area’s most active volcanoes— that was fondly dubbed “Gateway to Hell.” Developing bifocal vision, once we are at the stunning blue lakes and craters that punctuate the area, is a good idea. The small stuff at our feet— in the form of a carpet of low grass, pale white mushrooms, bright orange flat

caps, grey-green lichen and tiny flowers with a bright yellow centre (whose name I could never figure out), are all equally worthy of scrutiny.

It’s the end of our time here and we have much to salute. There is something about driving through a land, free of the clutter of cities and the cloned monopoly

of malls, that reinforces in us the idea— that while culture is a great testament to the ingenuity of our race; the sublime truly does abide in nature.

# THE INFORMATION GettinG ther e There are a few one-stop flight options between Delhi and Reykjavik. From Reykjavik, niche travel agencies offer speciality guided tours into the Highlands.

You’re best off doing your research online, before you find one that best suits your nature and requirement. wher e to stay We stayed at the Hotel Highlands

in Hella (double room from `9,900 per night; thehighlandcenter. is). It was comfortable and clean, with a reasonable restaurant attached. If you’re on a budget, there are a fair number of camping options available in the Landmannalaugar area.

what to see & do All places we visited were either in or around Fjallabak Nature Reserve, since it takes

an experienced driver-cum-local guide to navigate the terrain to reach most other attractions. >The Haifoss waterfall near Hekla volcano promises an extraordinary sight. >The glacial lake Blahylur is an isolated expanse with unpretentious beauty. >A climb up a mountain or crag at Landmannalaugar is the best way to experience the region. Mount Blahnjukar is a scenic option.

>To get a view of the Northern Lights is a matter of chance, but if they show up, an experienced guide will know where to take you. >Veidivotn is defined by desert lakes among a volcanic basin.

Good to Know Much of this area is only accessible from mid-June to end September, when the roads are safe and the area is resplendent n sonia nazareth with colour.

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our bucket list

WHERE THE EXPERTS WANT TO GO IN 2018 OutlOOk traveller staffers spill the beans On their persOnal bucket lists

Amit Dixit

PHOTOGRAPHS: GeTTy imAGeS

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Clockwise from left: the submerged Egyptian city of ThonisHeracleion; Metéora in Greece; and Gnawa musicians in Morocco.

Facing page: ‘land diving’ on Pentecost Island, Vanuatu

Heritage & Culture egypt

morocco

For the cultural tourist—or vulture— looking to immerse himself deep in a destination, Egypt offers rich pickings, and periodically throws up ‘new’ treasures. In 2000, a French archaeological team confirmed the presence of an entire city submerged 6.5km off the coast of Alexandria. The remarkably well-preserved ruins and artifacts, mostly made of granite and diorite, were of the great port city of Thonis-Heracleion (the Egyptian and Greek names, respectively). Among the ruins were gold coins, anchors, 64 ships, 16ft-high statues and the remains of a massive temple dedicated to the mighty god Amun-Gereb. The site looks so spectacular, I’m even willing to learn diving just so I can see it.

Countries as complex and layered as Morocco are best sampled with the strands separated. Take just the music.

There’s a massive diversity here, from pop forms like Oughnia and Chaabi to Sufi music of different tariqas, reggada and jajouka , the rhythmic prose form of Malhoun, Berber tribal music and even some influential Andalusian music. This is simply music to my ears.

greece I’d like to devote at least one trip to Greece solely to its monasteries. I’m expecting the highlight of my trip to be the Unesco World Heritage Site of Metéora. This rock formation in central Greece is home to 24 precipitously built Eastern Orthodox monasteries

celebrating the eremitic ideal, only slightly less famous than Mount Athos.

vanuatu Alexander Frater is known for that travel classic with the self-explanatory title, Chasing the Monsoon. His romance with the rains began early, in Vanuatu, an island nation in the South Pacific where he grew up. Ever since I read Tales from the Torrid Zone, Alexander Frater’s 2004 ode to Vanuatu, I’ve wanted to go there and not just because I’m fond of him or that he’s a former contributor to this magazine. Between them, Vanuatu’s modest-sized indigenous population boasts over a hundred different languages. They also invented bungee jumping and, on Pentecost island, you can still see it practiced the old way. outlook traveller • DeCeMBer 2017

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Sumeet Keswani

Clockwise from here: snorkelling in Jellyfish Lake, Palau; schools of hammerhead sharks in the Galápagos; swimming with dolphins in Bay of Islands, NZ; and Northern Lights in Rovaniemi

Adventure Swim with dolphinS in the Bay of iSlandS, new zealand Earlier this year, I was fortunate to meet a pod of delightful bottlenose dolphins riding the bow of my boat in the Maldives.

Did you know they could leap nine metres up in the air? But the rendezvous felt incomplete; I watched them swim curiously below as I stayed high and dry. As a scuba diver, it’s been my dream to share the underwater world with a dolphin, but I don’t support any of the facilities that offer this experience with captive creatures. A dolphin is meant to be free and wild! So, imagine my delight when I came across the Bay of Islands 76

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in New Zealand. With a population of 500 bottlenose and numerous common dolphins, the area promises a 95% chance of spotting a pod. But here’s the important part—on a guided cruise, you can actually get into the water, clad in a wetsuit and snorkel mask, to swim with these joyful mammals. New Zealand, here I come!

See the northern lightS in Santa ClauS’S home Even as a kid, I was woke enough to know that the whole Santa Claus thing was nothing but a lovely hoax. But that did not stop me from leaving stockings outside every Christmas eve. As I grew up,

I took it upon myself to fulfill my wishes, good and bad lists be damned. One of those still unfulfilled is to witness the Northern Lights. And what better place to see the magical phenomenon than the mythical Santa Claus’s official hometown, Rovaniemi, in Finnish Lapland. Sami folklore attributes the aurora borealis to a fox whipping up snow with its tail as it runs over the fells. Science says it’s electrically charged particles from the sun that cause the enchanting display.

It would be apt to see this ethereal show on a reindeer sleigh ride while in Santa’s town, but just the thought of -20°C makes me want to burrow into a blanket inside

one of those Arctic glass igloos for the best of both worlds. Call me a first-world millennial. Go on.

Snorkel with Golden JellyfiSh in Palau Jellyfish have always fascinated me.

A creature with no brain or heart that has survived over 650 million years and is named after Medusa? You’d be crazy not to like it. But as with all beauty, the jellyfish comes with a deadly sting. Except the golden jellyfish in the archipelago nation of Palau. This harmless variety has lost its sting and spends the day migrating east to west

across a saltwater lake on Eil Malk Island, following the sun’s rays (since they get their energy from photosynthesis performed by algae living in their bodies).

They attract snorkellers from around the world, so much so that the lake has earned the moniker Jellyfish Lake. Millions of pulsating orange blobs in an emerald lake? Sign me up!

dive in the GalÁPaGoS iSlandS The mind-boggling variety of endemic flora and fauna at the Galápagos Islands has inspired scientists and naturalists for centuries now. From Charles Darwin’s theory of evolution to the now-viral

marine iguana chase scene in BBC’s Planet Earth 2, this volcanic archipelago of 19 islands in the Pacific Ocean has featured in some of the most iconic works on biodiversity and animal behaviour.

While the land species like Darwin’s finches and giant tortoise are certainly a draw, what tempts me is the marine world here. A dive into the waters would mean being amidst scores of schooling hammerhead sharks, Galápagos sharks, whale sharks, spotted eagle rays, penguins, marine iguanas, sea lions and lots more. Nearly 20% of the marine life here is exclusive to these islands. Oh Galápagos, you take my breath away! outlook traveller • DeCeMBer 2017

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Nightlife Rio de JaneiRo’s samba PaRties

Shruti Singh

When it comes to being a party girl, I yield to none. Which is why Rio is right on top of my list. And it’s the samba street parties I want to crash. The famed Sambadrome Parade at Carnival time is the first to spring to mind, but if you only attend that, you’ll have missed out. On the streets, the Samba Street Parades or Blocos are centred on a band and free for everyone.

The streets shut and cars are replaced by an intoxicated crowd that cheers, mingles, and dances into the following day. The costumes, songs and dances create an electrifying atmosphere. Locals will be quick to tell you that the true taste of nightlife can be savoured in the Lapa neighbourhood. Hip bars and nightclubs pumping with the sounds of samba demand an audience that is ready to dance the night away. On the weekend, the street vendors and clubs host legendary street parties. Rio is a place where tourists and locals rub shoulders and let loose to have the time of their lives.

negRil’s Reggae “One good thing about music/When it hits you, you feel no pain,” crooned the King of Reggae, Bob Marley. The best of reggae music flows to Negril, Jamaica; whether it is Marley wannabes or local artists—fun

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finds you here. On the Norman Valley Boulevard, every day is a party. Beaches, clubs, restaurants and resorts are dotted along the Boulevard all the way up to Bloody Bay. Venture out at night, when the beaches come to life. Sip your Red Strip beer and sway to the rhythm of reggae. On Sundays, the party comes to the beaches with live music and DJs that go on till 2am. The Jungle is famous for its hip-hop reggae and Jamaican dancehall. Hit the Bourbon Beach on Mondays, Thursdays and Saturdays. For a more local vibe, visit Alfreds on Tuesdays, Fridays, and Sundays.

On Wednesdays, Roots Bamboo is popular for live reggae music that introduces local artists. I can’t wait to get there.

new oRleans’ Jazz New Orleans was the first place in the New World that allowed slaves to own drums. Thus freedom-loving, improvised, rhythmic jazz was born. In The Big Easy, music is everywhere—in clubs, on the streets, on front porches and in parks.

Jazz is the soul of New Orleans, where you can never be too far from the New Orleans Marching Band that plays from street to street. Called the Second Linin’, this musical tradition is too tempting to ignore. You will be compelled to join the band and ‘boogie’. I’ll be looking out for the Jazz Fest happening in April. Irvin Mayfield’s Jazz Playhouse on 300 Bourbon Street is an intimate place to enjoy

performances. They have live music seven nights a week and hold jam sessions every Wednesday. When jazz faced its all-time low, Preservation Hall kept it going. Today, it hosts the biggest jazz players including their house band, the Preservation Hall Jazz Band. In New Orleans, you can’t help having a jazzy good time.

Cockwise from here: the Rio Carnival, Brazil; Bob Marley carved in wood, Jamaica; a nightclub in Tel Aviv, Israel; and musicians playing in Preservation Hall, New Orleans

Tel Aviv’s TrAnce Goa Trance music, round-the-clock partying, wild antics, crazy energy and vibes take parties in Tel Aviv to another level. It is no wonder that Tel Aviv is one of the best partying destinations in the world. Partying in Tel Aviv happens mostly underground. It is for people who are ‘in the know’, making it inaccessible to the general public. But I’m going to give it my best shot. The Doof Festival in May is the largest trance label, and boasts of non-stop 72 hours of music. The Menahse Forest Festival, also in May, goes on for three days and the top 80 bands of Israel are in the line-up. If not the music festivals, then Galilee in the North and Negev Desert in the south of the city host the biggest raves. They shift from indoors to outdoors, from beaches to underground clubs. The Block is one such underground club located on Salame Street, detached from the usual nightlife areas. The real action in Tel Aviv begins at 2am and continues till dawn; the after-parties go on till noon. My kind of place!

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Manek Singh Kohli

Clockwise from here: Tequila manufacturers in Jalisco, Mexico; wine barrels in Madeira; the Scotch whisky experience in Scotland; and champagne tasting in France

Spirits

Champagne in FranCe It was one of my coming-of-age moments when I realised that most of the champagne I’d ever had was really just plain, boring sparkling wine. But still, it was good to learn that only a particular terroir—the Champagne region of France— can produce a sparkling wine which can be named after the region. I also hear the lush environs are home to plenty of pretty villages, old historical cathédrales and basiliques, and some iconic distilleries— especially, the world’s largest distiller of champagne, Moët & Chandon. Now, who would like to sponsor my flight ticket?

Tequila in mexiCo Tequila’s strong, spicy flavour doesn’t bode too well for me, but I’m pretty sure that can be attributed to a poor 80

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understanding of this blue agave plantbased liquor. That’s why a visit to Tequila town in the Mexican state of Jalisco, around which the spirit originated some five centuries ago, seems like a must for me. Perhaps a view of the colourful agave fields, a tasting at a distillery—many of which have been run by Mexican families for generations—and, perhaps, a sip of one of those exclusive French oak barrel-aged tequilas will help enhance my appreciation of it.

Whisky in sCoTland Though the ‘Scotland vs. Ireland’ debate concerning the origins of whisky always remains inconclusive, I find myself siding with the Scots. While I am definitely fascinated by their castles (or the fact that I’d choose a Ballantine’s over a Jameson

in a heartbeat), a visit to Edinburgh for a whisky trail, or perhaps to Strathspey—an important whisky hub—are much bigger draws for me.

madeira in porTugal I include the Portuguese wine, Madeira, in my list because of its fascinating origins: back during the European ‘Age of Exploration’, when ships set out in search of new lands, they’d stop by Madeira island, located off the coast of Africa. A wine industry was established here around that time, which has become quite popular today. A unique thing about the wine brewed here was the favourable effect sea travel and sea climate had on its taste while wine barrels were being transported in ships. Till today, processes are used to achieve the same effect.

Puneet K. Paliwal Clockwise from above: a vintage car in Cuba; Teufelsberg in Berlin; an art installation on Naoshima Island, Japan; and a canal boat tour in Bruges, Belgium

Art & Architecture Havana, Cuba Cabaret shows, historic buildings, and the tripartite culture of Africa, America and Europe. Havana, the capital city of Cuba, is a haven for photographers. I would love to walk along the Gran Teatro, where dozens of classic American cars from the 1950s drive by. The smooth lines, geometric shapes, and pastel colours of buildings make for perfect frames. They say no photograph clicked in Havana is bad.

bruges, belgium Like an open-air museum, Bruges is a perfectly preserved ancient metropolis.

The towering 122m brick steeple dominates the skyline. Bruges is rows of gingerbread house-style buildings.

The cobblestoned streets, colourful old buildings, and canals over the river look

like they belong in a fairytale. Add to this a trip to Choco-Story, the chocolate museum, and a few pints of the finest Belgian beer, and this would be a pictureperfect vacation.

berlin, germany In Berlin, art transcends words and every corner of the city is brimming with creative inspiration. The fallen Berlin Wall today bears bold strokes of graffiti that carry messages of hope, peace and freedom. When an NSA spy controversy reached its all-time peak, artists turned the abandoned spy station at Teufelsberg into a giant art show. A bathtub filled with red water, with a small satellite perched on top, was placed right in the centre as an artistic statement. Then there are art spaces like Café Cinema, Urban Spree, and Neurotitan. Who

wouldn’t want to stroll through a city like this, camera in tow?

tokyo, Japan The winding alleys and wide expanses, the urban noise and the masses breathe life into Tokyo. It is truly the city of photographers. The contemporary dwellings of Shibuya Crossing and Chuo Street have hundreds of people crossing streets around neon-lit buildings. The urban jungle of Shinjuku with its fine parks is home to sakura blossoms. The ancient Buddhist temple, Sensoji, has stunning grounds ideal for sunset or sunrise photography. I would like to make one excusion though, to Naoshima Island, popularly called the art island.

Famous artists like Lee Ufan, James Turrell and Walter de Maria have contributed to the display here. outlook traveller • DeCeMBer 2017

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photo finish

#goldengate

T

he first time I saw the Golden Gate Bridge, it was wrapped snugly in a blanket of fog. As our boat drew closer, it emerged coyly from the mists. The bridge is an engineering marvel and a historic icon; some would even say a cliché. But when you see it first, the only thing you notice is its sheer, overwhelming size. And, like all proper touristy clichés, it’s essentially sublime. n amit dixit