SPIRITS | BEER | CIDER | MEAD HUDSON VALLEY COMPLIMENTARY 2023 HUDSON VALLEY | CAPITAL REGION hvwinemag.com WINETM Hudson Valley Innovators to Watch Mirror Lake Inn Resort & Spa An Expression of Terroir PLUS Events & Festivals Sips Guide MAP INSIDE Visit us online 15th ANNIVERSARY ISSUE
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Producer Profiles
CONTRIBUTORS
J. Stephen Casscles is a vintner, viticulturist, and author of Grapes of the Hudson Valley and other Cool Climate Regions. He lectures on horticultural and history throughout the Northeast, and is project manager of the Milea Estate Vineyards Hudson Heritage Project.
Nancy Matsumoto is a writer and editor who specializes in the areas of sake, regenerative agriculture, food, and culture. She is the co-author of the James Beard Foundation Awardnominated book Exploring the World of Japanese Craft Sake: Rice Water Earth.
Volume 16 Issue 1 2023
ROBERT BEDFORD EXECUTIVE EDITOR
LINDA PIERRO MANAGING EDITOR / DESIGN DIRECTOR
CHERYL ELKINS ADVERTISING SALES
J. STEPHEN CASSCLES VITICULTURAL CONSULTANT
J. STEPHEN CASSCLES NANCY MATSUMOTO
LINDA PIERRO KATHLEEN WILLCOX CONTRIBUTORS
ELIZABETH UPP COPY EDITING
Linda Pierro is co-founder, managing editor, and design director of Flint Mine Press, Hudson Valley Wine Magazine, and the Ultimate Cider Guide. She is a co-founder of the Hudson Valley Cabernet Franc Coalition, president of Flint Media, and writes on local wine and spirits.
Kathleen Willcox writes about the culture and politics of food and spirits for print and online publications. Her work regularly appears in VinePair and many other regional and national magazines.
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HUDSON VALLEY WINETM Magazine (ISSN 2325-8519) is published semi-annually by Flint Mine Press, a division of Flint Mine Group, llc. ©2023 Flint Mine Group, llc. All rights reserved. Hudson Valley Wine is a trademark of Flint Mine Group, llc. Material may not be reproduced in whole or in part in any form without written permission. The magazine assumes no responsibility to return unsolicited material. No statement in this publication is to be construed as a recommendation. Every effort is made to avoid errors, misspellings, and omissions.
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PHOTOS: (top) Courtesy Mirror Lake Inn Resort and Spa; (center) J. Stephen Casscles; (bottom) Baldwin Vineyards
5 FEATURE Cheers to 15 Years! by Kathleen W illcox 12 Mirror Lake Inn Resort & Spa An Expression of Terroir by Nancy Matsumoto 16 Wine Country’s Best Events & Festivals 46 Conversation With the Author Grapes of the Hudson Valley 48 Beverages to Suit Your Style Sips Guide 2 HUDSON VALLEY WINE • 2023
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GreatNorthernCatskills.com Wind down with a glass of wine or kick back with a pint of beer. The good times are always flowing in the timeless downtowns of the Great Northern Catskills. #FindYourCatskills It happens here. Feel it. Breathe it. Live it. hvwinemag.com • 2023 3
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DRUM ROLL, PLEASE! Hudson Valley Wine Magazine turns 15 this year! We’ve loved sharing the ins and outs of the region’s top craft beverage makers and their products with you over the past decade and a half. And while we promise not to belabor the theme, we were motivated by the occasion to change things up a bit, add some new features, and make this an annual issue (an homage to the Premier issue back in 2008).
To kick off the issue, we reached out to some established and emerging talents in the industry to get their take on the past, present—and, most importantly—the future of the region’s wine and craft beverage industry. In a community so deep with talent, vision, and success, we hope you’ll enjoy hearing from this cross-section of trailblazers devoted to their craft. Find out what’s trending and what lies ahead in the Hudson Valley beginning on the next page.
In the broader theme of terroir, a subject we’ve covered in depth over the past 15 years, we’ve gone outside the region’s borders to learn how multi-dimensional terroir can be. At Mirror Lake Inn Resort and Spa in the Adirondacks, it is woven into every aspect of the lodging and dining experience. Turn to page 12 for a look at how they have seamlessly intertwined terroir and sustainability—then book a dinner reservation or a stay to experience meaningful sustainability up close!
As the pursuit of a more sustainable future is top of mind for all of us, the local wine industry is finding ways to offset the effects of climate, and secure economic and environmental viability for decades to come. For one, they are growing and making more wines from native and hybrid grapes. (Even French vignerons are eyeing lesser-known indigenous grape varietals to address negative climate events and the rising alcohol levels in their wines.) For this issue, we sat down with J. Stephen Casscles who has been at the forefront of the movement here in the Hudson Valley and who just released the second edition of his book on hybrid grapes. Check out a short Q&A on the subject beginning on page 46. Our issue wouldn’t be complete without an inside look at some of the region’s top producers and a map in the back to make it easy to plan your visits. (For a list of Producer Profiles flip to page 19.) Can’t get to every tasting room on your bucket list? Head to a festival or some of the events we’ve curated on page 16. For even more month-by-month things to do, browse our events calendar by scanning the QR code at the top of the page. We closed out this celebratory issue with “Sips,” an at-a-glance style guide. Find your favorite beverage and join us in a toast of what’s to come!
Cheers,
Linda Pierro Publisher, Managing Editor
4 HUDSON VALLEY WINE • 2023 @hudsonvalleywinemagazine
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Years 15
Cheers to A
A Glimpse into the Future of the Hudson Valley
by Innovaters Shaping the Industry Today
nniversaries are a reminder of the speed of time. The time you’re toasting has seemingly passed in a flash, even if many of the minutes that made up those years felt eternal. Looking back on 15 years of Hudson Valley Wine Magazine, we can’t help but marvel at just how much the industry has changed since our first issue.
We’ve seen a growth of more than five hundred percent in the number of producers, counting all wineries, distilleries, breweries and cideries that have set up shop in the region; the number of distilleries alone has increased twelve-fold. There have been wineries that have come and gone, but some of the region’s flagships hit major milestones celebrating two or three decades in the business. Cideries have popped up in scores (there are more than 30 in the region now), but breweries by far have seen the largest growth with nearly 90 in the region today (up from seven in 2008). There are also more vinifera vines being planted, something that was less common back in 2008, with grapes like Cabernet Franc, Blaufränkisch, Grüner Veltliner, and even Albariño taking front stage. And we now have climate change to thank for more winemakers experimenting with heritage and native grape varietals—often with surprising, and tasty, results.
We hope you’ve enjoyed watching the industry flourish as much as we have. To help us mark the occasion, we reached out to a few people we’ll be watching over the next 15 years— those who continue to shape the industr y and propel the region onward and upward, and those who are just entering the business and starting to make their mark.
Read on for a front-row seat to some of the region’s most pioneering craftspeople and industry professionals, and their vision for the next 15 years.
By Kathleen Willcox >
hvwinemag.com • 2023 5
Paul Brady Owner | Paul Brady Wine
Paul Brady’s M.O. is serving up New York state in a glass via his masterfully curated winery and bottle shop, Paul Brady Wine.
“When I was 17, my family moved to Paris, and I learned to appreciate wine,” Brady says. He’s never looked back, and has never had a job outside of the food and beverage industry, working for Brooklyn Winery, Terroir Wine Bar, Hearth Restaurant, and Gramercy Tavern, as well as other stints at bold-faced establishments across France and New York.
Brady opened his store in 2021 in Beacon, producing custom wines and serving drinks and selling bottles at the bar and shop.
“I see people of all ages and backgrounds coming to the Hudson Valley, many for the first time,” Brady says. “I see that continuing, and I see the industry responding. It’s exciting hearing about the new vineyard plantings, orchards, breweries, distilleries, and lodging. This is the type of region where you can easily spend a week townhopping while experiencing the great diversity of food and beverages along the way. I love California, but it can be sleepy. New York is a party, with a unique energy.”
Russell Moss General Manager | Milea Estate Vineyard
Russell Moss hopes to honor the Hudson Valley’s historical roots while elevating its place in the wine world today, and tomorrow.
Moss learned to make wine in New Zealand, then moved to Oregon, where he managed vineyards. He has also taught enology at Cornell, and consulted and worked with wineries from Bourgogne to the Kingdom of Bhutan. So why is he in the Hudson Valley?
“I saw what Barry Milea was building, and called him to ask if he wanted help,” Moss says. “I knew the Hudson Valley could make world-class wine. We talked, and he decided to take me on to lead the business to a new era.”
Moss joined in 2021, and now Milea Family Wines owns Milea Estate Vineyard and Clinton Vineyards, which is getting a renovation and a rebrand and will reopen next year, focused on méthode champenoise wines. The sparkling segment is growing fast, and is predicted to grow even more, especially in cool climates like the Hudson Valley, Moss says.
“I think in the next few years, we will see wine and brand quality rise greatly across the Hudson Valley,” Moss predicts. “Also, with climate change, there will be winners and there will be losers. The West Coast’s ultra-premium wine business is facing an existential crisis with regards to climate change. And the Northeastern wine business largely stands to gain, with warmer summers resulting in reliable ripeness and warmer winters bringing less damaging events to grapevines.”
The Hudson Valley, Moss predicts, will be the place to be.
“I am excited to play a small role in it with all of the other great winemakers and grapegrowers in the region,” Moss says.
‘‘ 6 HUDSON VALLEY WINE • 2023
I see people of all ages and backgrounds are coming to the Hudson Valley, many for the first time… and I see the industry responding.
In the next few years, we will see wine and brand quality rise greatly across the Hudson Valley.
J. Stephen Casscles
Author, Vintner | Cedar Cliff Vineyards
Author, horticulturist, and winemaker
J. Stephen Casscles has always been an explorer interested in the wilder side of grape cultivation.
“I have been growing grapes and making wine since I was 16,” Casscles says. “My first harvest was at Benmarl Vineyards in 1974, so I am almost at my 50th crush.”
He served as winemaker at Hudson-Chatham Winery, and works with Milea Estate Vineyards on the Heritage Grape project. (He also had a successful career as an attorney for the New York State Senate, where he wrote laws that govern how wine is made, distributed and sold in the state.)
Casscles’ current farm, Cedar Cliff Vineyards, is a culmination of those decades of work and exploration. He grows more than 100 cool climate grapes—many French-American hybrids and heritage grapes developed in the 19th century—with the goal of finding more naturally hardy grapes.
“I hope to identify hardy, disease resistant and productive grapes so they can be grown with minimal pesticide applications, or organically,” he says. “But they also need to make quality wines.”
Grapes he’s currently keen on Burdin Noir, Pallmer Noir, Jefferson and Croton. He’s also fascinated with the potential of co-fermenting grapes with beer, distilled products, and cider.
“I work with local Subversive Brewery and Brewery Lahoff on projects with heritage grapes,” Casscles says. “There is more openness with younger consumers to try wines made from hybrids, heritage grape varieties, and co-fermentation products.”
Peter Voelker Founder, Meadmaker | Helderberg Meadworks
Co-owner and mead maestro Peter Voelker founded Helderberg Meadworks in 2010 with his wife Kirsten, and watched the market for mead slowly, but surely, grow.
When Voelker found that his side hobby as a home brewer and meadmaker was producing a better product than he could find on the market, he went into business.
“We started small with a minimal financial investment, then reinvested all of the profits,” he says. “Today, I’m at a place that I never dreamed of, with 20 employees, two tasting meadhalls and more than 200 stores carrying my mead.”
But he didn’t quit his day job as a compliance manager for a local power plant—and while he has expanded production twice and needs to again (he’s also looking into a third meadhall)—he has seen a few meaderies close their doors recently.
“I’m hoping a few new small ones will pop up,” Voelker says. “I would love to see some new faces. I’ve always tried to meet and become friends with meaderies all around the country. In some cases I’ve even helped them get up and running. When people see and understand the quality and passion of what we do, I find they’re as open to it as they are to wine.”
hvwinemag.com • 2023 7
There is more openness with younger consumers to try wines made from hybrids, heritage grape varieties and cofermentation products.
When people see and understand the quality and passion of what we do, I find they’re as open to it as they are to wine.
’’
Tristan Migliore General Manager
Whitecliff Vineyard
Tristan Migliore grew up at Whitecliff Vineyard—literally— and he has watched the industry transform, firsthand.
“My parents started it as a hobby, so as a kid, chores included helping during harvest and crush, and bottling and labeling,” Migliore, who now serves as General Manager, explains. Times have changed. The hobby has turned into a full-fledged business with multiple tasting rooms, and dozens of wines that more and more people want to try.
“There are so many more people relocating or splitting time between New York City and the Hudson Valley,” he notes. “The volume of traffic has gone up, and the type of customer has changed.”
“Now the interest is in quirky, or atypical wines. Whenever we release a limited or special edition, it catches people’s eyes much more than a standard release.”
Scott Ramsey Executive Director New
York Cider Association
Scott Ramsey, the newly-minted executive director of the New York Cider Association, is making it his mission to introduce more people to the artisanal beverage the Hudson Valley grows from the ground up.
Ramsey hails from corporate media, and worked for a range of Fortune 100 firms—a far cry from the dusty back roads of apple country. He explains that he is bringing his unique boardroom C-suite of skills to the farm in a bid to help cidermakers “build and grow a strong business in New York. A lot of that entails facilitating connections between our producers and members of the industry engaged in selling cider—restaurants, chefs, servers, bartenders, and retailers.”
He is also determined to grow the market of cider lovers through focused consumer and industry educational opportunities.
And as a new resident of the Valley, he’s become an official regional booster. “I’ve become a Certified Tourism Ambassador for Dutchess County, because I love learning more about the region and how deeply significant our history here is,” Ramsey says. “It is important not just to New York State, but the entire country.”
Part of his big-picture vision is putting New York Cider on the map in a new way, which he hopes, in turn, will bring long-overdue recognition to the region.
“There is no reason why New York Cider and the Hudson Valley and the Finger Lakes shouldn’t be what California wine is to Napa and Sonoma,” Ramsey points out. “We have the largest concentration of cider tasting rooms in the country both in the Hudson Valley and Finger Lakes regions, we lead the country with the number of licensed cider producers, and the origin story of apples and cider in this country has deep roots in New York.”
8 HUDSON VALLEY WINE • 2023
“There is no reason why New York Cider and the Hudson Valley and the Finger Lakes shouldn’t be what California wine is to Napa and Sonoma.”
“Now the interest is much more in quirky, or atypical wines.”
Travis Van Caster Winemaker | City Winery Hudson Valley
Winemaker Travis Van Caster worked for three years at Left Coast Estate in Oregon’s Willamette Valley, eventually making it up the ladder to assistant winemaker. He then made his way east to Cornell University to study enology, and bopped around France and California before discovering City Winery.
“Everything about City Winery and the Hudson Valley appealed to me,” he recalls. “My passion is making high-quality reserve wine and being able to work with well-known vineyards across the country in a way that highlights the terroir of each vineyard.”
But Van Caster knows that truly understanding a region requires spending time there, which is why he is also laser-focused building out the robust events space at City Winery.
“I believe that more people coming in from the city and a general increase in wine tourism to the region is going to drive up demand for Hudson Valley wine, maybe to the point where local vineyards have a hard time keeping up,” he says, acknowledging that this is the kind of business problem every business dreams of.
“Over the next decade and a half, we’re going to see the momentum being generated today pay off, with more vineyards being planted and more recognition, especially for sparkling wines being made in the Hudson Valley.”
Matthew Spaccarelli
Co-founder, Winemaker | Fjord Vineyards Winemaker | Benmarl Winery
Fjord Vineyards’ co-founder Matthew Spaccarelli knew he loved family, wine, and agriculture when his family bought Benmarl Winery and he “jumped right into the deep end,” but he had no idea just how much.
“In 2010, we made the switch to 100% New York sourced grapes, and I haven’t looked back,” Spaccarelli says. “In 2010, my partner Casey [Erdmann] and I decided to start our own label at Fjord,” where they manage 30 acres, with an annual production of 3,000 cases.
It’s complicated, but simple.
“The longer I am in the business, the more I fall in love with the vineyards,” he says. “My focus has been to not only make quality wines, but get more vines in the ground. We have a lot of potential to grow high-quality wines, and I hope to fill the void I see in locallygrown fruit, while also helping other growers find ways to grow more.”
As of now, Spaccarelli has plans to plant more Cabernet Franc, Chardonnay, and Albariño, with the knowledge that sourcing fruit closer to home simply makes for a better product.
“I can confidently say that our estate-grown wines, both for Benmarl and Fjord Vineyards, are the ones that shine in our portfolio,” he says. “They are also the ones that consumers are more drawn to.”
hvwinemag.com • 2023 9
“Over the next decade and a half, we’re going to see the momentum being generated today pay off.”
“We have a lot of potential to grow high quality wines, and I hope to fill the void
I see in locally grown fruit, while also helping other growers find ways to grow more.”
Megan Lamb Assistant Winemaker Quartz Rock Vineyard
Megan Lamb attended the Culinary Institute of America to study the pastry arts, but the wine bug bit her, and she changed her focus to enology. She says the stars aligned when Dan Heavens and Jacqui Ferrari Heavens purchased what became Quartz Rock Vineyard (formerly Glorie Farm Winery).
“They gave me an opportunity to work with them as an assistant winemaker, and in the tasting room on the weekends,” Lamb says.
“I find that continuing my education with food and wine studies, while also working here, helps deepen my understanding of flavor profiles, tastes, and aromas.”
Quartz Rock’s focus on using estate-grown grapes and apples for wine and cider as well as their development of a sparkling program is the future, she believes.
“I love working in the tasting room because I get to hear feedback,” she says. “Overall, people are getting excited about our sparkling wines, and seeing it not just as a celebratory drink, but something they can enjoy every day. The future is hard to predict, but I love seeing the focus on, and appreciation for, the uniqueness of each individual winery, and the lines of products they produce.”
She also hopes to see more collaborative events and dinners between wineries, cideries, restaurants, and farmers.
“It’s a fun opportunity, and allows us to support each other, play off all of our strengths and bring recognition to all,” Lamb says.
Dylan Hull Manager | Applewood Winery
The growth of the craft drinks industry in the Hudson Valley has been a very good thing for business. Dylan Hull, whose family founded Applewood Winery in 1994 as an offshoot of the family farm, says that the growth has been inspiring.
“The number of wineries, cideries, breweries, and distilleries has increased dramatically in the past few years,” Hull, who manages Applewood Winery’s tasting room, wholesale sales, and marketing, notes. While there is strength in numbers, he also notes that “going forward, it will be increasingly important to find unique ways for all of us to make ourselves stand out.”
Hull has been working on this approach at Applewood by experimenting with mixology, creating seasonal wine and cider cocktails incorporating their line of Naked Flock Ciders and artisanal spirits. “It’s a fun way to play around with flavors already at our disposal, while also presenting products in a new and exciting way for our customers,” he explains.
10 HUDSON VALLEY WINE • 2023
“...it will be increasingly important to find unique ways to make ourselves stand out.”
“People are getting excited about sparkling wines, and seeing it not just as a celebratory drink.”
Joe Gaynor Cidermaker | Angry Orchard
Angry Orchard’s cidermaker Joe Gaynor was born and raised in the Hudson Valley, where he says that fermenting things at home was just par for the course.
“It has been wild to watch the official craft industry grow,” Gaynor says. “Growing up, each town would have one or two cideries, breweries, or wineries, but now you often see three or more of each in every town.”
Gaynor joined Angry Orchard seven years ago as a part-time bartender, and found his passion for, and knowledge of, the art and science of fermentation blossom there. As head cidermaker, he is particularly excited to work with their 30+ cider-specific apple varieties, and hopes to develop new cider styles and creative ways to share the ciders with guests.
“I’m really excited to see what we can do with cider varieties like Yarlington Mill, which has soft tannins, or Porters Perfection, with a touch of tannin, complimented by high acidity and beautiful aromatics,” he says. “We’ve seen different areas throughout the U.S. become synonyms with certain products, like California with wine, Kentucky with bourbon, Colorado with craft beer. I believe the Hudson Valley is uniquely located both geographically and agriculturally to be a hub for most craft beverages in the country— but most importantly, with cider in particular.”
Paige Flori Owner | Boutique Wines, Spirits and Cider
Paige Flori fell in love with the drinks industry while working for a small Italian importer. She decided to take a full dive into retail, in a bid to highlight the undersung small-batch beauties she saw around her in the Hudson Valley.
She loves everything fermentable, but has a particular affinity for those gorgeous Empire apples. In 2023, she was named Pommelier of the Year, East Coast, by the American Cider Association.
“I spend a lot of my time storytelling and helping customers understand some of the nuances of wine, cider and spirits,” Flori says, adding that she has expanded her selection for 35 ciders in the can and nine on tap to 325 in bottle and can and 13 on tap.
Watching the evolution of the Hudson Valley since opening her store in 2017, Flori is bullish on the future of the Hudson Valley, particularly in the drinks sector.
“Overall, I feel the Hudson Valley is destined to become a destination for agritourism, with the wine, spirit, cider and mead business as a large part,” Flori says. “We have some world-class producers doing incredible things, driven by factors like the Culinary Institute of America, proximity to New York City, and more educated consumers seeking transparency in what they consume. I am excited to be a small part of the movement.” •
hvwinemag.com • 2023 11
“The Hudson Valley is uniquely located to be a hub for most craft beverages in the country.”
“We have some worldclass producers doing incredible things, driven by factors like the Culinary Institute of America, proximity to New York City, and more educated consumers seeking transparency in what they consume.”
12 HUDSON VALLEY WINE • 2023
Mirror Lake Inn Resort and Spa and Chef Curtiss Hemm:
An Expression of Terroir
By Nancy Matsumoto
Just 140 miles due north of Albany, the Adirondacks’ Lake Placid region is home to fertile farmland, passionately run livestock enterprises, and a highly evolved artisan dairy culture. Yet one familiar catch-phrase that guests at Mirror Lake Inn’s Four Diamond-rated restaurant The View will never hear is “farm-to-table.”
The term is commonly overused, says Executive Chef Curtiss Hemm, that it’s become next to meaningless. A better way to describe what both the inn and the restaurant express is “terroir,” and not in the narrow sense of local wines expressing local soil. To Hemm, the term encompasses “a multi-dimensional, three-hundred-and-sixty degree” view of the northern Adirondacks. Sure, it includes wines, though Cabernet Franc is the star here, not the more familiar Cabernet Sauvignon or Pinot Noir. But it also includes New York maple syrup, Gladsheim goat’s milk Gouda from Asgaard Farm and Dairy, aged raw cow’s milk Dutch Knuckle cheese from Sugar House Creamery, and, he adds, “some of the best yogurts in the country” from North Country Creamery.” Terroir can also be found in North Country’s supremely happy Brown Jersey cows, which Hemm passes every day on his way to work.
In their embrace of this concept of terroir, Mirror Lake Inn and The View, with their casual Adirondack elegance, are reminiscent of Europe’s finest ski resorts and luxury hotels, where a robust roster of winter sports, year-round activities, complete spa services, and seasonal, classic-yet-creative European cuisine administer to body, soul, and stomach. The beauty of cooking European-influenced foods in the United States, says Hemm, is that he has a freedom that European chefs lack: “If I want to take skate wing and put ponzu sauce or truffle on it, I can,” he says. “I don’t have to put a caper cream sauce on it.”
Family owned since 1924, the inn passed into the hands of Ed and Lisa Weibrecht in 1976. Their son Andrew is a retired World Cup alpine ski racer and two-time Olympic medalist, in Vancouver and Sochi. Today Andrew and his wife Denja serve as the innkeepers.
Even the annual Ironman Lake Placid triathlon, which changes the complexion of The View in the weeks leading up to the big July event “is part of the terroir of Lake Placid,” Hemm asserts. The View’s house-made pastas come to the fore during this time as carbo loading commences, while alcohol sales decline. “We brought in a whole line of beneficial beverages, too, like kombucha and cold-brew coffee (which is less acidic, and some believe, healthier than hot brewed) and a lot of botanicals and teas.” The spa, too, goes into overdrive, with deep tissue massages and reflexology among the most popular services. In the kitchen, Hemm emphasizes dishes that aren’t “heat denatured,” in other words, raw or cured foods (ceviches, crudos). Preparing them this way keeps their nutrients as accessible to the body as possible.
With their casual Adirondack elegance, Mirror Lake Inn and The View are reminiscent of Europe’s finest resorts and luxury hotels . . . administering to body, soul, and stomach.
>> hvwinemag.com • 2023 13
A MULTI-DIMENSIONAL APPROACH TO SUSTAINABILITY: (clockwise from top left) Wellness-inspiring view from a newly renovated Suite; Chanterelles and other wild edibles foraged at a Carriage House Cooking School Class; Award-winning food and wine pairing at The View; Organic foul sourced from Reber Rock Farm.
Taking the Regional Lead in Sustainability
This form of fossil fuel-free “cooking” dovetails with Hemm’s as well as the inn’s emphasis on sustainability. “We’re a ‘last-mile resort town,’ which means that almost everything we get here is trucked in,” says Hemm. “So it’s important to offset everything we do.” Mirror Lake Inn was the first hotel property in Lake Placid to adopt a comprehensive recycling program. A business-wide energy audit in 2021 validated the inn’s adoption of a rooftop solar program, which has reduced its dependence on the local electrical grid by 450 to 500 kilowatt hours a year. Fourteen EV stations are being installed, the inn has switched to more eco-friendly detergents and cleaning products, and a $1.5 million laundry facility has introduced more energy efficient machines.
In the kitchen, Hemm is keenly attuned to minimizing oven use to save energy, and not just during triathlon season. “If I can use a flat-top (cooking range) that’s on, I’ll do that. I don’t want to turn an oven on. I’m a garde manger chef,” he says, referring to the cold station of a restaurant, where salads, hors d’oeuvres, appetizers, and charcuterie are made or kept. In fact, Hemm—who grew up in Peru, NY, studied culinary arts at Paul Smith’s College, earned two certificates of gastronomy from the Cordon Bleu in Paris, and spent two years cooking in Burgundy—published the culinary textbook titled Garde Manger: The Cold Kitchen while he was dean of culinary arts and director of online programs at the New England Culinary Institute. “Cooking is not just the application of heat, it’s the denaturing of food,” he explains. “If I can let acid and time equal cooking then I don’t need to turn on a fossil-fuel oriented implement.”
His zero-waste approach to cooking has led to the addition of some popular menu items. For example, any remaining house-made sourdough bread is transformed the following day into passatelli, a northern Italian dumpling made with the addition of Parmigiano Reggiano cheese, and eggs, then cooked in brodo, or broth. “I maximize the use of any food that I bring in. I will pickle juiced lemon rinds and use the zest as a flavor agent in sugars, in Indian chutney, or in a mousseline for a deviled crab salad,” says Hemm. Through actions such as these, he’s cut kitchen waste to almost nothing. Another practice he’s adopted is around the custom-raised, grass-fed and -finished Red Devon beef he sources from Asgaard Farm. “I pay for an entire steer, which includes the fat, and the bones, the entire hanging weight. It’s custom cut for our needs, then I save the prime cuts, ribeye, strip loins and tenderloins, for the holidays, when demand is highest. Everything else becomes the grass-fed, grass-finished beef I use throughout the year.”
Hemm has also reduced the amount of non-reusable plastic packaging that comes into the kitchen. The View does not offer to-go products because he does not want to use single-use plastics. Mirror Lake Inn offers two watering stations where guests can fill up their plant-based carafes with seltzer or still water. The restaurant’s composting program, administered by Blue Line, has helped reduce its use of plastic garbage bags by 80 percent. “That’s sixteen fiftyfive gallon garbage bags not going into landfill every day,” Hemm says. Blue Line sends three truckloads of rich compost soil back to the inn each year, which is used to fertilize the herb garden outside The View kitchen, and the flower beds spread throughout the inn and spa property. The flowers grown onsite provide all of the floral arrangements for the inn, spa, and restaurant as well.
Custom raised grass-fed beef from Asgaard Farm
The Library at Mirror Lake Inn
A selection of local Essex County cheeses
An Award-Winning Wine Program
The View’s 800-label wine list, says Hemm who also serves as the inn’s food and beverage director, has a predictably strong selection of California Cabernets as well as Bordeaux wines, along with a strong selection of old and new world whites. His list has earned a Wine Spectator “Best of Award of Excellence” designation, indicating a deep commitment to wine and wine service, a breadth across multiple winegrowing regions, and depth in the form of verticals from top producers. Verticals in The View cellar include Opus One, Continuum Estates, as well as a large holding of Turley Wine Cellar products.
Hemm’s current interest is in expanding The View’s holdings of cool-climate wines, including a strong selection from New York state, along with local beers and ciders. He loves Lamoreaux Landing Wine Cellars, the sparkling wines of Damiani Wine Cellars, the dry Rieslings from Ravines Wine Cellars, and Wölffer Estate Cabernet Francs. Because cool-climate wines are “low ABV, valueoriented, delicious and food-friendly wines,” he’s looked beyond New York’s borders, too, bringing in bottles from South Africa, northern Portugal, Oregon and Central California. “They’re far more versatile for food pairing than, say, Napa Valley Cabernets, which are constantly thumping their chests. They’re wines that might not overpower German potato dumplings, but not everything can be that.”
At The View, he’s noticed that diners are either focused on the beverage and look for food that is going to enhance what they are drinking, or are more food focused and want something to go with their meal. Either way, he adds, servers can recommend pairings, whether it’s a red to match a dish of grilled beef tenderloin, potato purée, petite carrots, baby turnips, and slender haricot vert with a Pinot Noir demi-glace; or a light red or white to accompany a dish of Faroe Island salmon served with succotash, tomato vinaigrette, and a honey herb butter glaze. The local duck hunting culture is reflected in a duck ragu or a duck Bolognese that might appear on the menu.
Hemm fell in love with cooking when he was 14, and realized that he liked this craft that involved “building and creating, and was something that was artistic and systematic.” He could develop skills and have fun, while bringing his strong analytic skills to bear as an executive chef. Now, at age 53, with an established career, he wants do what he can to steward the land and improve his local environment.
In 2013 he bought the family farm he grew up on, 300-acre Hallock Hill Farms, where he offers his Carriage House cooking classes (see sidebar). He’s taken the farm offline commercially, except for oak wood that he sells for lumber. Most of the 60 pastured acres and 250 wooded acres remaining is land he’s designated as a habitat for pollinators and small wild mammals; his goal is to eventually oversee the largest privately owned pollinator habitat in the northeast. Timber harvesting is done based on wildlife habitat needs, including leaving a certain number of stumps for the male grouse. These become perches for the birds as they engage in a thumping or drumming display of loud wing flapping—their way of proclaiming territory or issue a mating call.
The View Restaurant’s Dining Room
“When I go outside to have my coffee in the morning and I hear the thumping of a grouse,” says Hemm, “It makes me smile.”
The Carriage House Cooking Classes
In 2017, Hemm opened The Carriage House Cooking School on his 300-acre Hallock Hill Farms. Located in a carriage house he built with farm-harvested lumber, this is where he teaches small classes of eight to ten people. “It’s a great marriage of my passion for food and what I do here on the farm,” he says.
At Mirror Lake Inn, under the auspices of The Carriage House Cooking school, Hemm heads up culinary weekend getaways for Mirror Lake Inn guests. Up to 40 guests, often couples, sign up for these experiences, which include two night’s lodging at the inn, a welcome reception, hors d’oeuvres, and multiple cooking classes. The last package was a Cinco de Mayo-themed weekend, and the next one, in the fall, will center on the foods of Italy. “It’s a great way for Mirror Lake Inn to share the beauty of the Adirondacks for our neighbors in the Hudson Valley,” Hemm explains. “The weekend getaways are a chance for guests to meet like-minded people. Many guests return for repeat weekends.” •
hvwinemag.com • 2023 15
Celebrate the seasons in wine country! Artisan markets, harvest fests, pairing classes, concerts — there’s something for everyone and every taste. Scan the QR code to browse our calendar for even more month-by-month things to do.
July–Aug Concerts in the Vineyard City Winery Hudson Valley Montgomery citywinery.com/hudsonvalley
Check website for dates
1-2
Chocolate Wine Pairing Baldwin Vineyards | Pine Bush baldwinvineyards.com
15
Sparkling Wines & Ciders
Tasting & Pairing Class
Quartz Rock Vineyard | Marlboro quartzrockvineyard.com
5 Cash & Country Festival & NY Whiskey Weekend Warwick Valley Winery | Warwick wvwinery.com
5-6
National Mead Weekend Helderberg Meadworks | Esperance helderbergmeadworks.com
5-6
Putnam County Wine & Food Fest Wells Park | Brewster putnamcountywinefest.com
12
Hudson Valley Craft
Beverage Festival & Market
Brooklyn Cider House Twin Star Orchards | New Paltz twinstarorchards.com
22
Pollinator Masquerade Hudson Valley Farmhouse Cider Stone Ridge Orchard hudsonvalleyfarmhousecider.com
22-23
Sangria Festival Benmarl Winery | Marlboro benmarl.com
12-13
Modern Makers Market St. Mary’s Church | Cold Spring hopsonthehudson.com
12-13
Sangria Festival Benmarl Winery | Marlboro benmarl.com
26
Whitecliff Vineyard Wine Run 5k Whitecliff Vineyard | Gardiner raceentry.com
9 Fall Harvest Festival Weekends (through Oct 29) Treasury Cider | Hopewell Jct. treasurycider.com
9-10
Hudson Valley Wine & Food Festival Dutchess County Fairgrounds Rhinebeck HudsonValleyWineFest.com
7-9
Oktoberfest Brooklyn Cider House Twin Star Orchards | New Paltz twinstarorchards.com
9 Fall Harvest Festival Treasury Cider | Hopewell Jct. treasurycider.com
4 Season Finale Pig Roast Brooklyn Cider House Twin Star Orchards | New Paltz twinstarorchards.com
15 Homestyle Homicide Murder Mystery Baldwin Vineyards | Pine Bush baldwinvineyards.com
16 Cabernet Franc Vertical Tasting & Pairing Class Quartz Rock Vineyard | Marlboro quartzrockvineyard.com
6-15 Cider Week New York Various locations CiderWeekNewYork.com
7 Hudson Valley Farm & Flea 1010 SR 17M | Monroe hudsonvalleyfarmandflea.com
14-15 Modern Makers Market St. Mary’s Church | Cold Spring hopsonthehudson.com
20
Wool & Folk Hudson Valley Farmhouse Cider Stone Ridge Orchard hudsonvalleyfarmhousecider.com
4 Speed Dating LGBTQ+ Quartz Rock Vineyard | Marlboro quartzrockvineyard.com
21-22
Walktoberfest Farmers and Makers Market Walkway Over the Hudson | Highland walkway.org
TBD Annual Holiday Tree Lighting Brotherhood Winery | Washingtonville brotherhood-winery.com
16 HUDSON VALLEY WINE • 2023
JULY
AUGUST
SEPT
OCT
NOV- DEC EVEN 2023
OCT
hvwinemag.com • 2023 17 OCT 6 – 15 REGISTER AT CIDERWEEKNEWYORK.COM With more cideries than any other state, New York truly is a State of Cider. For a full list of where and how to enjoy Cider Week New York 2023, visit ciderweeknewyork.com and NewYorkCiderAssociationTV. EN TS Find more festivals and events online
18 HUDSON VALLEY WINE • 2023 ©2023 ANGRY ORCHARD CIDER COMPANY, LLC, ANGRYORCHARD.COM PLEASE DRINK RESPONSIBLY Head to the Cider House and taste through an exclusive line-up of craft ciders, sign up for a guided tour, and experience all that our 60-acre Orchard has to offer. CIDER TASTINGS • GUIDED TOURS • EVENTS AND MORE LEARN MORE AT ANGRYORCHARD.COM @ANGRYORCHARDWALDEN 2241 ALBANY POST RD, WALDEN, NY 12586
hvwinemag.com • 2023 19 ORANGE WESTCHESTER ULSTER DUTCHESS GREENE COLUMBIA RENSSELAER ALBANY ORANGE COUNTY Applewood Winery 20 Brotherhood Winery 22 City Winery Hudson Valley 24 NEW! Warwick Valley Winery & Black Dirt Distillery 26 ULSTER COUNTY Baldwin Vineyards 28 Benmarl Winery 30 Nostrano Vineyards 32 Quartz Rock Vineyard & Bedrock Cidery 34 Stoutridge Distillery & Winery 36 Whitecliff Vineyard 38 DUTCHESS COUNTY Milea Estate Vineyard 40 SPIRITS & MEAD Harvest Spirits 42 Helderberg Meadworks 44 Shawangunk Wine Trail HudsonBerkshire Beverage Trail Capital Craft Beverage Trail Upper Hudson Wine Trail Hudson Valley Cabernet Franc Coalition KEY TO TRAILS LEARN MORE Scan to explore the producers in this issue FEATURED PRODUCERS
APPLEWOOD WINERY
Established 1994
VISIT APPLEWOOD WINERY in the heart of the historic Hudson Valley and discover the oldest working farm in Orange County and one of the oldest farms west of the Hudson River. The Hull family and their friends began planting fruit trees in former pastures in 1949. In 1994, the winery was created and vineyards planted. Remarkably, the vistas from the vineyards today have changed little from the time before George Washington was born.
When Applewood first started making wine they had two goals in mind: To make some really great wines and to have as much fun as possible doing so. Now they want to share their passion for wine and make it an easy, enjoyable experience for you and your friends and family.
When you visit Applewood you get to taste wine right where it comes from. You’ll find plenty of true connoisseurs in Applewood’s tasting room: People who know what they like and don’t need a wine critic’s review to justify it. Novices can learn about the world of wine in a comfortable setting, and even the most jaded imbiber will find a rich and complex tasting experience.
Food is constantly talked about in Applewood’s tasting room, almost as much as their wines. If you love chocolate, Applewood offers a chocolate pairing along with a wine flight that shouldn’t be missed. The Cider Café features applewood-fired pizzas, cheese and charcuterie boards, pretzel bites with Applewood’s own honey mustard dipping sauce, housemade hummus, and more. For cider lovers, Naked Flock features a flight of four, 4-ounce pours. Rotating tap lines feature limited edition and seasonal options, as well as core ciders. The Cider Bar offers pints and growler fills, and cans and bottles are available to purchase to enjoy at home or wherever you are heading this summer!
It gives everyone at Applewood Winery great pleasure to share with you their harvest of wine and cider. Of course, you can just hang out and listen to live music in the courtyard, too.
MEET THE OWNERS AND WINEMAKER
Jonathan and Michele Hull are the owners of Applewood Winery. Jonathan grew up on the farm at Applewood and moved to New York City to attend NYU. When he met Michele, his idea of a gourmet meal was takeout. But Michele worked at the famous Windows on The World restaurant, and was wise in the ways of food and wine.
Living in New York City was a great learning experience, but Jonathan yearned to return to his agricultural roots. With his newfound love of wine that Michelle had instilled in him, Jonathan hit on the idea of opening a winery on the family farm. The prodigal son returned home and opened the winery with Michele’s gracious hand guiding the tasting room. She’s been welcoming guests to the tasting room ever since, and Jonathan has been on the cutting edge of the Craft Beverage movement in Orange County for 20 years.
SAVOR THIS
WHITE SEYVAL CHARDONNAY RESERVE VIDAL RIESLING
WAWAYANDA WHITE TRAMINETTE
RED MERLOT
INTERNATIONAL RED BLACKBERRY
RUBY’S KISS
CIDER
DRY CITRA HOPPED
LEMON GINGER
SMASHED CHERRY MEAD
COCKTAILS
LEMON GINGER SHANDY NAKED IN THE GARDEN
OLD FASHIONED FLOCK
Make your experience at Applewood extra special! Book a Private Cabana for 2 to 10 guests — it includes a dedicated server to discuss the wines and ciders, has super comfy seating, and fire pits in case of chilly weather. Visit the website for more info and to make a reservation for this must-do experience!
20 HUDSON VALLEY WINE • 2023
ABOUT US
IN THE SPOTLIGHT
LEMON GINGER CIDER AND ROSÉ WINE
Naked Flock’s signature summer cider, Lemon Ginger, will be released this May! This cider is bursting with citrus flavor and has a mellow ginger taste on the finish, making it a perfect summer refresher. Try a Lemon Ginger Shandy Cocktail—just add vodka and lemonade.
Not a cider lover? Summer is rosé season and Applewood has a rosé wine for every palate. Vineyard Sunset is a dry rose made with a blend of Cayuga, Riesling, and Traminette grapes. Pink Moscato is a delightfully sweet rosé wine with notes of roses and raspberries. Try them both!
THE ESSENTIALS
PRODUCTION
ADDRESS
82 Four Corners Road Warwick, NY 10990
PHONE 845-988-9292
WEBSITE applewoodwinery.com
TASTING FEE
$20 for a flight of 5 wines Reservations recommended
TOURS No
HOURS
Medium (5,000 to 10,000 cases)
OWNERS
Jonathan and Michele Hull
MANAGER
Dylan Hull
WINEMAKER / CIDER MAKER
Jonathan Hull
GETTING HERE
FROM NYS THRUWAY (I-87): Exit 16 Harriman (Woodbury Commons) for NY-17 West to Exit 127 Greycourt Rd. Follow signs to Sugar Loaf then Warwick, Cty. Rt. 13. Three miles past Sugar Loaf, turn right on Four Corners Road, go 1 mile. Travel time: 1 hour from George Washington Bridge.
FROM ALBANY, KINGSTON, NEWBURGH & CONNECTICUT: Take NYS Thruway (I-87) South to Exit 16 Harriman (Woodbury Commons). Then same as above.
Mar–Dec Wed–Sun 11am–5pm
Sept–Oct Daily 11am–5pm
Closed New Year’s Day, Easter, Thanksgiving, Christmas Day
EVENTS
Free music in the courtyard every weekend through October, 2–5pm. Cider café open for lunch Saturday and Sunday, 12–4:30pm.
Check social media for pop-up events.
hvwinemag.com • 2023 21
ORANGE
BROTHERHOOD, AMERICA’S OLDEST WINERY
Established 1839
BROTHERHOOD REMAINS THE OLDEST WINERY in America, continuously operating from 1839 to today, even throughout Prohibition. The winery began as a small, family-run operation producing wines primarily for sacramental and medicinal purposes. It has survived the Civil War, two World Wars, and Post-Prohibition laws that changed the alcohol industry following the repeal – a true testament to the winery’s deep roots and strength. Despite the dramatic shifts in the American palate that have favored a myriad of wine styles over the decades, the winery has remained responsive to the fluctuations in American preferences.
Brotherhood Winery is one of the largest producers of wine in New York State for both its own production and private label contracting. By purchasing grapes from independent growers, including the Finger Lakes, Long Island, and throughout the State, the winemakers select fruit that best exemplifies the territory from which it was grown to produce a variety of premium and sparkling wines which are readily available in the tri-state region.
The latest improvements at Brotherhood include top-of-the line upgrades to grape presses, aging vessels, bottling machinery, and updates to laboratory facilities. Consistent remodeling efforts made to preserve the historical integrity of the restaurant, tasting hall, gift shop, museum, and catering hall are a priority to accommodate the daily tours and weekly weddings.
In the tasting room, you will find limited edition wines as well as a variety of hard apple ciders and a fresh line of New York wines. The gift shop is a menagerie of accessories, décor, and apparel, great for last-minute presents or hostess gifts. The onsite restaurant, 1839 Restaurant & Bar, serves lunch and dinner that will be sure to satisfy your appetite. The beautifully renovated Grand Monarque Hall has proven to be the premier place to host a wedding or special event in the Hudson Valley.
MEET THE WINEMAKERS
BOB
BARROW
Bob Barrow, winemaker and head cider maker at Brotherhood, graduated from Virginia Tech in 1998 with a B.S. in Biology and a Chemistry Minor. He worked at Williamsburg Winery in Virginia before starting at Brotherhood in 1999. A native of Dutchess County, Bob spends his time in the lab and cellars creating Brotherhood’s blends, sparkling wines, and ciders.
KELLY ONG
Laboratory Manager Kelly Ong joined the Brotherhood team after graduating with a B.S. in Chemistry from Marist College in 2010. Kelly works on formulating and analyzing wines and ciders, formula approvals, monitoring the fermentation, inventory and production lines, and creating quality control plans.
HALEY SILVERMAN
Haley Silverman started at Brotherhood in 2016, after graduating from Stony Brook University with a B.S. in Chemistry and Environmental Studies. Haley divides her time between the laboratory and the production line as a Quality Control Technician, ensuring each product meets the company’s formulation and taste standards.
SAVOR THIS
WHITE GEWÜRZTRAMINER
#BAE RIESLING
RIESLING
CHARDONNAY
WINE MAKER’S PRIVATE SELECTION RIESLING
ROSÉ
DRY ROSÉ
#BAE SPARKLING ROSÉ
RED
NEW YORK RED
PINOT NOIR
ICON MERLOT
ICON CABERNET SAUVIGNON
BROTHERHOOD CABERNET SAUVIGNON
SPARKLING
B SPARKLING RIESLING
B SPARKLING ROSÉ
SPECIALTY HOMESTYLE SANGRIA
HOLIDAY
#BAE WINE SELTZER (BLACK CHERRY, PEACH, PINEAPPLE, WATERMELON)
Brotherhood Winery is the producer of Homestyle Sangria—a refreshing sangria that delivers all the natural flavors of delicious premium wine with a perfect blend of fruit. Best enjoyed chilled, with friends and family. Follow Brotherhood Winery on Instagram @brotherhoodwinery.
22 HUDSON
• 2023
VALLEY WINE
ABOUT US
IN THE SPOTLIGHT
BROTHERHOOD CABERNET SAUVIGNON
2021 New York Wine Classic
Best Cabernet Sauvignon winner! Made from 100% New York Cabernet Sauvignon grapes and barrel aged for a minimum of 12 months. Old-world in style, it has all the typicity of a Cabernet Sauvignon; flavors of ripe berries with a nice tannin structure and a long, soft, smoky finish.
I LOVE NY
As America’s Oldest Winery, Brotherhood is proud of our home state of New York. This great wine captures the true craft of New York using a delicious blend of 100% New York grown and loved grapes with a delicious fruit-forward character.
THE ESSENTIALS
PRODUCTION
BROTHERHOOD PINOT NOIR
New vintage release! Crafted in the style of a true Burgundian Pinot Noir. This vintage exemplifies bright fruit flavors of cranberry, cherry, and black tea, creating a complex light to medium bodied wine.
ADDRESS
100 Brotherhood Plaza Drive Washingtonville, NY 10992
PHONE 845-496-3661
WEBSITE brotherhood-winery.com
TASTING FEE
$15, includes glass
TOURS
Public Tours – check website for updates
HOURS
Jan–Mar
Thurs–Sun 11am–5pm
Apr–Nov
Tues–Thurs, Sun 11am–5pm
Fri 11am–6pm
Sat 11am–7pm
GETTING HERE
FROM NYS THRUWAY (I-87): Exit 16 (Harriman) for NY-17 W to Exit 130. Take 208 North to Rt. 94 in Washingtonville. Make a right at the light on Rt. 94 and at the next light make a left on Brotherhood Plaza Drive. Brotherhood is at the end of road on the left.
Dec
Tues–Thurs, Sun 11am–5pm
Fri–Sat 11am–6pm
Closed New Year’s Day, Thanksgiving, Christmas Day, Mondays (except holidays)
Large (10,000+ cases)
OWNERS
Chadwick and Castro families
MANAGER
Hernan Donoso, President
WINEMAKERS
Bob Barrow, Kelly Ong, Haley Silverman
EVENTS
Visit brotherhood-winery.com for upcoming events.
PICKUP/DELIVERY*
– Order online for curbside pickup by appointment.
– Shipping by UPS delivery.
*until further notice
hvwinemag.com • 2023 23
ORANGE
CITY WINERY HUDSON VALLEY
Established 2020
CITY WINERY HUDSON VALLEY is located in Montgomery, NY, at the historic Montgomery Worsted Mills. The scenic 22-acre property consists of a fully functioning winery, restaurant, tasting room and event venue. City Winery strives to deliver a unique high-end culinary and cultural experience to guests who are passionate about wine, music, and food. By combining a winery with intimate experiences and fine dining, City Winery has created a compelling venue for their sophisticated clientele.
The Hudson Valley property is designed to integrate the winemaking process with consumption and enjoyment of wine. Guests can wander from the winery into the Barrel Room tasting bar and restaurant, where they can try house wines served fresh on tap, straight from the cellar. The culinary team pairs wines with flavorful dishes to complement each glass. Tasting flights are offered to sample the many wines made inhouse, along with an award-winning wine list featuring over 400 wines from many of the top producers from all over the world.
In the continuous effort of sustainability, City Winery is preserving the earth one glass of wine at a time. All locations have implemented the use of “wine on tap” to negate the production of wine in bottles. Seventy percent of wine produced goes directly into 15- to 30-gallon barrels after the wine has finished the clarification process. All the energy and gas used to create, fill, seal, label and transport the bottles is unused. This furthers City Winery’s sustainability efforts by saving almost 300,000 bottles per year.
In addition, City Winery’s reusable wine bottle program, Re-Wine, allows Hudson Valley customers to take wine-to-go, return the bottle to be washed and sanitized, and then receive a five-dollar credit towards their next bottle. By utilizing their direct-to-consumer venues, City Winery is paving the path to become the most environmentally efficient winery in the world. With its growler exchange program, City Winery is able to offer customers an on-the-go bottle of wine and eliminate the shipping of heavy glass bottles and corks. The effort to help enrich the earth is ongoing at City Winery Hudson Valley.
MEET THE WINEMAKER
Travis Van Caster is a skilled and creative winemaker who currently serves as the Head Winemaker at City Winery Hudson Valley. With over 10 years of experience in the wine industry, Travis has become well-versed in both traditional and modern winemaking techniques. He has a passion for crafting unique and highquality wines that capture the essence of the terroir and reflect the characteristics of the grape varieties he works with.
At City Winery Hudson Valley, Travis oversees the entire winemaking process, from grape selection to bottling. Travis’s commitment to quality and his deep understanding of the winemaking process have earned him a well-deserved reputation as a talented and respected winemaker in the industry.
SAVOR THIS
WHITE 2022 “IN BLOOM” GRÜNER VELTLINER
ROSÉ
“ROSÉ IS A ROSÉ IS A ROSÉ” ROSÉ OF PINOT NOIR
RED
2022 “GAMAPHONE” NOUVEAU RED BLEND
2021 RESERVE ZINFANDEL
SPARKLING
2021 RIESLING PÉT-NAT
2021 Reserve Zinfandel – a classic Zinfandel! This wine opens with a bold nose full of baking spice, fresh berries, and brown sugar. On the palate, the wine is supple and rich, with loads of cinnamon and cola notes with hints of mushroom. Full of bold flavors, dark fruit, and beautiful spiciness, this wine will satisfy those customers coming in for a “BIG RED.”
24 HUDSON
WINE • 2023
VALLEY
ABOUT US
PHOTO (center): Nathan Zucker
IN THE SPOTLIGHT
JEFFERSON CUP INVITATIONAL
Often referred to as the “Olympics” of wine competitions, The Jefferson Cup Invitational is the only competition that honors the best of the best from wine regions across America. This competition is not open to every winery, rather, winners are selected from tastings and competitions throughout 2022.
The 2022 competition included wines from twenty-five states. Forty-one wines from 10 different states captured top honors. City Winery’s 2022 winning wines include:
THE ESSENTIALS
City Winery Pinot Noir Reserve Cuvee
Baciagalupi 2019 Russian River Valley
City Winery Cabernet Franc Reserve Cuvee
Alder Springs 2019 Mendocino
City Winery Syrah Reserve Cuvee Alder Springs
2019 Mendocino
City Winery Chardonnay Chards of Glass
2019 Sonoma Mountain
City Winery Pinot Noir Signature Series
2017 Dundee
City Winery Cabernet Sauvignon Signature Series
2017 Napa
City Winery Riesling Pet-Nat 2020 Finger Lakes
City Winery Roussanne Reserve Cuvee
Alder Springs 2019 Mendocino
GETTING HERE
FROM NYS THRUWAY (RT. 87): Take Exit 17 to I-84 (Newburgh). Continue 7.5 miles, then take Exit 28 to NY-208 N. Continue on NY-208 N, then turn left onto NY-17K W. Go 1.4 miles, then turn right onto Factory Street. City Winery will be on the right.
ADDRESS
23 Factory Street Montgomery, NY 12549
PHONE 845-424-0222
WEBSITE citywinery.com/hudsonvalley
TASTING FEE
$15
TOURS
$45
HOURS
Year-round Wed–Thurs 4–9pm Fri–Sat 11:30am–10pm Sun 11am–9pm
Closed
Christmas Day
PET FRIENDLY Yes (patio only)
OWNER
Michael Dorf
MANAGER
Jennifer Austin
WINEMAKER
Travis Van Caster
EVENTS
Check the website for upcoming events.
hvwinemag.com • 2023 25
ORANGE
WARWICK VALLEY WINERY & BLACK DIRT DISTILLERY
Established 1994
THE STORY BEGINS IN THE ORCHARD. In 1989, Warwick Valley Winery purchased an orchard and began to learn how to cultivate fruit. Local apple growers and extension agents taught them the basics and contributed to their early success. Their first product, in fact their entire business, started as a result of an abundant apple crop that lead them to experiment with hard cider. They were soon hooked, and their doors opened to the public in the fall of 1994. Years of experimentation and hard work led to the development of their acclaimed Doc’s Draft Hard Apple Cider, made using the finest fruit available.
The passion for creating wines and ciders soon evolved into an idea to begin distilling and to open the first distillery in the Hudson Valley since Prohibition. It was their belief that the fruits grown in the fertile Hudson Valley could be made into the highest quality fruit brandies and liqueurs. In 2001 they developed New York’s first fruit microdistillery. Using the same principle that had brought them success with wine and cider, they created a line of fruit brandies and liqueurs – American Fruits – made to capture and preserve the essence of fruit at its peak ripeness.
Black Dirt Distilling, LLC, was formed in 2012. While Black Dirt Bourbon and Black Dirt Apple Jack were born at the Warwick Valley Winery & Distillery, since 2013 they have been produced in a 4,000-square-foot distillery on a 60-foot column still. The distillery now produces up to 50 barrels a week.
The post-and-beam tasting room at Warwick provides visitors a unique environment to explore many offerings of wines, ciders, brandies and liqueurs. Overlooking a goose pond and the orchards, its bucolic setting is perfect for enjoying some great wine, music and food from their Pané Café, which serves fresh bread, pizzas, sandwiches, and salads all weekend long.
MEET THE WINEMAKER
Jason A. Grizzanti is a renowned New York State winemaker, pomologist, viniculturalist, businessman, and the innovator behind the Empire State’s first fruit micro-distillery. Jason is a principal and chief operating officer in charge of production at the Warwick Valley Winery in the Hudson Valley’s picturesque apple capital.
Under Jason’s direction, the facility has garnered critical acclaim and awards for its fruit distillates including an 87 rating from the Beverage Tasting Institute for Grizzanti’s Pear Brandy; a Gold Medal at the New York Wine and Food Classic for his Pear Liqueur; coverage in Forbes Life magazine for the bourbon barrel-aged Apple Liqueur; a Gold Medal-winning Ruby Port; and Best of Show recognition at the Hudson Valley Wine Competition for Jason’s American FruitsTM Sour Cherry Cordial.
SAVOR THIS
WHITE WARWICK VALLEY WINERY RIESLING
RED
BLACK DIRT RED
CIDER
DOC’S SOUR CHERRY & DOC’S HOPPED MIXED (HOPPY CHERRY)
DOC’S PEAR
COCKTAILS
BLACK DIRT BOURBON & COLA ON TAP
SMOKED OLD FASHIONED
SPIRITS
BLACK DIRT NEW YORK RYE
BLACK DIRT 4-YEAR
BOURBON
WARWICK GIN
Black Dirt’s flagship Bourbon notched a Double Gold medal at the prestigious San Francisco World Spirits competition. Sample Black Dirt Bourbon in the tasting room alongside local beer, Doc’s Ciders, and the (in)famous Warwick Valley Winery Sangria.
26 HUDSON VALLEY WINE • 2023
ABOUT US
IN THE SPOTLIGHT
GIN PIG
Gin Pig puts his best foot forward with juniper prevailing on the nose and palate followed by a balanced pepper spice and slight sweetness. He finishes warm and smooth with hints of strawberry and rose petals. A true sipping gin, perfect on his own or incorporated into your favorite cocktails.
ADDRESS
114 Little York Road Warwick, New York 10990
PHONE 845-258-4858
WEBSITE wvwinery.com blackdirtdistillery.com
TASTING FEE
$6 includes glass
TOURS
$15 distillery tour
HOURS
THE ESSENTIALS
PRODUCTION
Large (10,000+ cases)
OWNERS
Joseph Grizzanti, Jason Grizzanti, Jeremy Kidde
DIRECTOR OF SALES
Jeremy Kidde
WINEMAKER
Jason Grizzanti
GETTING HERE
FROM NYC & NJ: Take Rt.17 North into New York State toward Albany (I-87). Get off at Exit 15A, Sloatsburg. Make a left off exit onto Rt. 17. Take Rt.17 north for 7 miles, then make a left onto Rt.17A. Stay on Rt. 17A for approximately 17 miles into Warwick. At the intersection of Rt.17A and Rt. 94 make a left, onto Rt. 94. Proceed on Rt. 94 for 1/4-mile, make a right onto Little York Rd. The winery is 1 mile on the right.
Year-round Daily 11am–6pm
Closed New Year’s Day, Easter, Thanksgiving, Christmas Day
EVENTS
Visit wvwinery.com for upcoming events.
hvwinemag.com • 2023 27
ORANGE
BALDWIN VINEYARDS
Established 1982
IN 1982, THE BALDWIN FAMILY established a winery at the historic 1786 Hardenburgh Estate. In the past 41 years they have received numerous awards for their exceptional wines and have played a vital role in New York’s emergence into the premium fruit wine category. They are not just an award-winning winery, but also a secondgeneration farm winery. The winery was initially founded by Pat and Jack Baldwin and is now owned and operated by their daughter Wendy and her husband Alex. Baldwin Vineyards remains a family-owned business.
In addition to their exceptional wines and family-owned operation, Baldwin Vineyards also boasts one of the largest tasting rooms in the Hudson Valley. Their spacious tasting room helps visitors relax and enjoy some of the best wines in New York State. Moreover, Baldwin has around 40 acres of river frontage property, featuring fully stocked ponds, goats, chickens, cornhole, volleyball, board games, and much more. Visitors can enjoy a variety of outdoor activities and revel in the beauty of nature while sipping on their favorite Baldwin Vineyards wines.
Baldwin Winery is the perfect venue to host small weddings, birthdays, anniversaries, and bridal showers, as well as corporate events and fundraisers.
The party room at the winery accommodates up to 50 guests, or the entire winery and picnic area can be rented. The winery also has a private space, The Loft, which is designed as a relaxing area for private events such as bachelorette parties, birthdays, corporate events, and more.
With uncompromising service, the Baldwin Vineyards’ family will help you create a memorable event customized to your needs.
MEET THE WINEMAKERS
Celebrating 41 Years! Pat and Jack Baldwin first opened Baldwin’s doors in 1982. In December 2014 the torch was passed, and the second generation of Baldwin winemakers took the helm.
Pat and Jack’s daughter, Wendy BaldwinLandolina and her husband Alex Landolina studied for many years under the tutelage of their parents. Now they create the same fine crafted wines that the Baldwin family has created for the last 41 years.
Baldwin Winery produces small batches of each of their wines. If you have a favorite, definitely stock up while it is available.
SAVOR THIS
WHITE DRY:
CHARDONNAY
MIST DI GRECO
AUTUMN CRUSH
TRAMINETTE
CHARDONNAY OAK RESERVE
SEMI-DRY: ILLUSIONS BLUSH RED
CABERNET SAUVIGNON EMBERS
LEMBERGER
DESSERT
LATE HARVEST RIESLING
APPLE WINE
STRAWBERRY WINE
SPICED APPLE WINE
SPECIALTY
WINE SLUSHIES
WINE COCKTAILS
SANGRIAS
New York International Wine Competition named Baldwin Vineyards “New York State Fruit Winery of the Year” in 2020 and 2021. Baldwin’s Apple Wine was awarded a Double Gold Medal, and proclaimed “Best of Show” in the prestigious Finger Lakes International Wine Competition!
28 HUDSON
WINE • 2023
VALLEY
ABOUT
US
IN THE SPOTLIGHT
UPCOMING LIVE MUSIC
Enjoy live music, rain or shine, every weekend from 1–4pm.
May 27–28
Andrew Mercer
June 3–4 Billy Manas
June 10–18 T he Art Lillard Duo
June 11 Smokin’ Buddie Steve
June 24 Frank Sarino
July 1–2 Frank Sarino
July 8 Billy Manas
July 9 Smokin’ Buddie Steve
July 15–16 Peter Einhorn Duo
July 22 JUST US
July 23 T he Art Lillard Duo
July 29 Billy Manas
August 5–6 Peter Einhorn Duo
August 12 Smokin’ Buddie Steve
August 13 T he Art Lillard Duo
August 19–20 Hudson Valley Bluegrass Band
August 26–27 Billy Manas
September 2–3 Gayle Donnelly
GETTING HERE
FROM NYS THRUWAY (I-87): Exit 16 (Harriman) for NY-17 W, then continue on NY-17 W to exit 119 for NY-302 N to Pine Bush. At the first traffic light in Pine Bush, continue through the light onto Maple Avenue. Turn left onto Hardenburgh Road. The old stone house and winery will be on the right side. Baldwin Vineyards is on the Orange/Ulster county border in southeastern New York.
GPS co-ordinates are -74.293735, and 41.618957.
THE ESSENTIALS
ADDRESS
176 Hardenburgh Road Pine Bush, NY 12566
PHONE 845-744-2226
WEBSITE baldwinvineyards.com
TASTING FEE
$14 includes a sample of 6 wines
$18 includes a sample of 6 wines and a souvenir wine glass
HOURS
May–June
Sat–Sun 12–5pm
Closed June 25th
July–Aug
Fri–Sun 12–5pm
Sept–Dec
Sat–Sun 12–5pm
Closed Easter, Thanksgiving, Christmas Day
TOURS No
PRODUCTION Small (less than 5,000 cases)
OWNERS
Wendy Baldwin Landolina, Alex Landolina
WINEMAKER
Alex Landolina
EVENTS
Visit the website for upcoming events.
hvwinemag.com • 2023 29
ULSTER
BENMARL WINERY
Established 1957
WINE HAS BEEN MADE from the grapes of the Hudson Valley since the 17th century when the French Huguenots grew vines and made wine in New Paltz. Among the young farmers attracted to this burgeoning industry in the early 1800s was Andrew Jackson Caywood who bought and planted a handsome piece of land high above the river in a grape growing community that had begun in 1772. When the community incorporated as the Village of Marlborough, in 1788, a cluster of grapes carved in its seal commemorated its major crop. Caywood became an outstanding viticulturist and leading authority in the development of new grape varieties.
When the Miller family bought the Caywood property in 1957 and renamed it Benmarl, it had outlived all of its early contemporaries to become America’s oldest professional vineyard. The Millers rebuilt its steep terraces, replanting them with European wine grapes, both hybrid and vinifera, carrying on Caywood’s private experimentation at a time when New York’s wine industry was at a low ebb.
In 2006, the Spaccarelli family purchased Benmarl Winery from the Miller family, with the intention of reviving the spirit of Hudson Valley viticulture and the process of wine making. By replanting many of the abandoned vineyards and refurbishing the estate, they have managed to bring a new light to Benmarl, without sacrificing the tradition and history that makes it so special. Along with new plantings of Cabernet Franc, they are pushing the envelope with plantings of Blaufränkisch, Saperavi, and Muscat Ottonel.
Benmarl and the Spaccarelli family are dedicated to the renaissance of New York’s first vineyard region. They strive to produce high-quality wines that are enhanced by the regional character which sets them apart from any others in the world.
MEET THE WINEMAKER
At Benmarl Winery, the winemaking process has been increasingly focused on the idea of expressing the exceptional historic terroir that the winery sits on. “The decisions that we make in the cellar are very important,” says Matthew Spaccarelli, the winemaker at Benmarl. “But not as important as the quality and consistency of the fruit that we grow and purchase.”
The Spaccarelli family has also been looking to the future by refurbishing their existing vineyards and planting new ones. Investment in new temperaturecontrolled tanks, French and American barrels, and a state-of-the-art bottling line, has added to their focus on quality and consistency. But the changing climate offers a new set of challenges for winemakers in the Hudson Valley, as well as a responsibility to produce wines in a more sustainable manner. “The decisions that we make today will inevitably shape the environment we will have to work in down the road,” says Spaccarelli.
SAVOR THIS
Benmarl Winery was awarded “Hudson Valley Winery of the Year” at the Hudson Valley Wine & Spirits Competition—two years in a row! A distinguished judging panel awards this honor to the winery whose wines received the highest average score.
30 HUDSON VALLEY WINE • 2023
ABOUT US
WHITE 2021 STAINLESS STEEL CHARDONNAY 2021 SEMI DRY RIESLING 2021 SEYVAL BLANC ROSÉ 2021 DRY ROSÉ 2021 PÉTILLANT RED 2020 CABERNET FRANC 2019 PROPRIETORS RESERVE 2020 MALBEC 2020 ESTATE CABERNET FRANC
IN THE SPOTLIGHT
2021 DRY ROSÉ
This dry, pale pink blend of Merlot and Cabernet Franc has become a staple at Benmarl over the past few years. Balanced, approachable, and extremely food-friendly, this wine is a perfect fit for a multitude of culinary endeavors.
2020 CABERNET FRANC
Earthy with notes of raspberry and cherry. Lightly oaked with a spicy finish of black pepper and vanilla.
2019 PROPRIETORS RESERVE
This dry red blend of 80% Merlot, 13% Malbec and 7% Cabernet Franc is Benmarl’s richest red wine. Notes of red plum and blackberry, tobacco and dark chocolate.
THE ESSENTIALS
PRODUCTION
ADDRESS
156 Highland Avenue Marlboro, NY 12542
PHONE 845-236-4265
WEBSITE benmarl.com
TASTING FEE $15
TOURS No
GETTING HERE
FROM NYS THRUWAY (I-87): Take Exit 17 (Newburgh) then take I-84 East and exit at Rt. 9W Newburgh (just before the Newburgh/ Beacon Bridge); Rt. 9W North about 4.5 miles, then turn left on Conway Rd., keep to the right. The Benmarl entrance is one mile on the right.
FROM ORANGE COUNTY & PA: Rt. 9W Newburgh (just before the Newburgh/ Beacon Bridge); Route 9W north about 4.5 miles, then turn left on Conway Rd., keep to the right. The Benmarl entrance is one mile on the right.
FROM PUTNAM COUNTY & CT: Take I-84 West and cross the Newburgh/ Beacon Bridge; Route 9W North about 4.5 miles, then turn left on Conway Rd; keep to the right. The Benmarl entrance is are one mile on the right. Buses please call in advance.
HOURS
Jan–Mar
Daily 11am–6pm
Apr–Oct
Sun–Thurs 11am–6pm
Fri–Sat 11am–8pm
Nov–Dec
Daily 11am–6pm
Closed New Year’s Day, Easter, Thanksgiving, Christmas Day
Large (10,000+ cases)
OWNER
Victor Spaccarelli Jr.
GENERAL MANAGER
Angelo Curci
WINEMAKERS
Matthew Spaccarelli, Laura Cypress
EVENTS
Visit
hvwinemag.com • 2023 31 ULSTER
the website for upcoming events.
NOSTRANO VINEYARDS
Established 2010
NOSTRANO VINEYARDS is a family-owned and operated 75-acre farm, vineyard, and winery in Milton, NY. Although Nostrano Vineyards was established in 2010, winemaker Nic Bozzo’s family has been growing grapes, apples, and other fruits on the farm since 1943. Nic himself grew up on the farm and is the fourth generation in his family to carry on the fruit growing tradition on this piece of land.
Even in the early days of the farm, the family made some wine for themselves using their own grapes, but it wasn’t until Nic studied landscape design in New Zealand that he began to envision creating a vineyard back home. Today, Nostrano grows ten acres of wine grapes, three acres of seedless table grapes, and six apple varietals that are original to the property.
Although Nic prefers not to put suggestions into tasters’ heads of what flavors they should be picking up on when they enjoy his wines, he can’t help but notice how his farm’s legacy of fruit production reveals itself in the bottles. “Maybe it’s just my memories, but the grapes that come from where we had peaches planted for years, I’m always catching a hint of peaches from the Rieslings we make from those grapes,” he said. “With the Cab Franc, I’m tasting the black cherries and red currants that were there. So I’m taking some of the past and putting it towards the future to tell the story of how a farm changes over time.”
Nic and his wife Kayleigh, who is the tasting room and events manager, run the dayto-day operation at Nostrano Vineyards and reside on the property with their family. The Tasting Room sits atop a picturesque hill overlooking a serene farm and vineyard vista. Visitors can enjoy estate wines, local cheese and charcuterie boards, and regular live music indoors at a rustic chic tasting bar or al fresco taking in the beautiful Hudson Valley scenery.
Nostrano Vineyards operates a seasonal wedding venue on-site offering a truly unique and personalized experience with complete privacy in Hudson Valley’s wine country.
MEET THE WINEMAKER NICOLAS BOZZO
Nic is Nostrano Vineyard’s proprietor, grape grower, and resident winemaker. He completed his B.L.A. from SUNY ESF at Syracuse University and studied Winery Design & Eco-Agriculture tourism in New Zealand. “When I was studying landscape architecture, I realized that it pertained to pretty much every aspect of your life,” he said. “Everywhere you look, it’s landscape architecture.” Nic’s case study for school involved designing vineyards, which meant studying everything from how wine is made, to how the driveway into the winery needs to have different focal points.
With his interest in sustainability and land management, Nic has been utilizing his knowledge to design and establish the vineyard and boutique winery, joking that the vineyard now doubles as his giant landscape architecture project to work on for the rest of his life. When Nic isn’t in the production warehouse you can find him pruning grape vines, operating heavy equipment, or handcrafting reclaimed wood furniture for the farm and vineyard.
SAVOR THIS
Nostrano Vineyards Estate Pinot Noir was planted in a unique microclimate located in front of the original family homestead on a south-facing slope. With protection from the mountain and full sunlight throughout the growing season the fruit offers vibrant floral notes and a delicate yet sophisticated finish. A true expression of the Hudson River region and terroir.
32 HUDSON
• 2023
VALLEY WINE
ABOUT US
WHITE 2021 ESTATE DRY RIESLING 2021 ESTATE SEMI-SWEET RIESLING ROSÉ 2021 AVA ROSÉ SPARKLING ARAE PÉTILLANT NATUREL ROS ATO PÉTILLANT NATUREL RED 2021 ESTATE BACO NOIR 2021 ESTATE PINOT NOIR 2020 RUSTIC RED
PHOTOS: Alex Healy Photo
IN THE SPOTLIGHT
RUSTIC RED
Rustic Red — a full-bodied Bordeaux blend of the last of Nostrano Vineyards Cabernet Franc (the signature grape of the Hudson Valley!), Merlot and Syrah, with a juicy mouthfeel, spicy, fruity overtones, and a dry finish. It’s the perfect drink-now blend or cellar for later.
ARAE — COMING IN 2023!
Look for the premier release of Nostrano Vineyards Pétillant Naturel produced from estate-grown Riesling early next year.
THE ESSENTIALS
PRODUCTION
ADDRESS
14 Gala Lane Milton, NY 12547
PHONE 845-795-5473
WEBSITE nostranovineyards.com
TASTING FEE
$12
PET FRIENDLY Yes (leashed)
HOURS
Feb–Mar
Sat–Sun 11am–5pm
Apr–Oct
Thurs–Fri 12–8pm
Sat–Sun 11am–5pm
GETTING HERE
FROM THE NYS THRUWAY (I-87): Exit 17 (Newburgh). Take I-84 East to Exit 39B. Turn left onto 9W North. Drive 12 miles to the town of Milton. Turn left onto Milton Turnpike (CR-10). After 2.2 miles turn left onto Lattintown Road (CR-11). Continue 0.1. miles, then turn right onto Gala Lane (private road).
Nov–Dec
Fri 12–8pm
Sat–Sun 11am–5pm
Closed
January, Easter, Thanksgiving, Christmas Eve, Christmas Day
Small (less than 5,000 cases)
OWNERS
Nicolas and Kayleigh Bozzo
TASTING ROOM MANAGER
Kayleigh Bozzo
EVENT MANAGER
Kourtney Cassalina
WINEMAKER Nicolas J Bozzo
EVENTS
Visit the website for upcoming events.
RESERVATIONS RECOMMENDED
Exploretock.com/nostranovineyards
hvwinemag.com • 2023 33
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QUARTZ ROCK VINEYARD & BEDROCK CIDERY
Established 2004; New Ownership 2020; New Name 2022
QUARTZ ROCK VINEYARD produces high-quality estate wine and serves it in a beautiful, welcoming environment, high on a mountain with spectacular panoramic views of the Hudson Valley from every table. One hundred percent of the fruit used in Quartz Rock wines is grown onsite, and the property is also now the home of Bedrock Cidery!
The vineyards and orchards at Quartz Rock are steeped in agriculture dating back to the 1700s. The rocky terrain on the mountain began its transformation to fruit farming in the 1970s under the previous owners, the Glories. Now, the Heavens are continuing the transformation by focusing on growing fruit that results in high-quality wines and ciders. They continue to replant and prepare new sections of the farm to focus on vinifera and traditional cider apples and pears.
Quartz Rock Vineyard’s mission is to perform all of their work with kindness and respect for the land, their team and communities, and each other. They give customers the opportunity to enjoy the fruits of the land while basking in its beauty. The vibe at Quartz Rock is easy-going and friendly, but the team is hard working and knowledgeable without being pretentious.
To complement the wine and cider, a visit can include live music, a variety of pop-up food options, classes and shows, including fire dance performances, a world-record sword balancing act, poetry workshops, stand-up comedy, and wine tasting and pairing classes.
Doing good in the world – close to home and further afoot – is also the foundation of Quartz Rock Vineyard’s identity. They host fundraisers and awareness events for LGBTQ+ school-aged kids and teens, world poverty and hunger, mental and physical healthcare and housing for US Military Veterans, postpartum support and maternal health, the 9/11 families fund, assistance for victims and survivors of domestic violence, have donated thousands of pounds of fruit to food pantries within Ulster, Orange, and Westchester counties, and are involved with numerous other charitable and advocacy organizations.
MEET THE OWNERS
DAN HEAVENS AND JACQUI FERRARI HEAVENS
Quartz Rock (and now Bedrock!) is known for its award-winning estate grown wines and hard ciders. There is a long and rich history of growing fruit in the Hudson Valley and Dan and Jacqui are proud to play a small part in its history.
The couple has focused on growing more vinifera grapes (more to come on this over the next few years!) as well as traditional French, English, and Spanish apple varieties to be used in their estate ciders. 2023 will be an exciting year as the new cider varieties will produce a small crop to enjoy the following year.
“There is a growing community of excellent fruit growers in the Hudson Valley and we are lucky to be a part of this. There are so many exciting projects across the Valley and we can’t wait to see how they develop over the years!” says Dan.
SAVOR THIS
WHITE 2022 ESTATE SEMI-DRY RIESLING
2022 ESTATE SEYVAL BLANC
2022 ESTATE VALVIN MUSCAT CHARDONNAY FIELD BLEND
2022 ESTATE UNOAKED CHARDONNAY
RED
2020 ESTATE CABERNET FRANC
2021 ESTATE MARQUETTE
2021 ESTATE UNOAKED NOIRET
DESSERT
2021 ESTATE CABERNET FRANC ICED WINE
2021 ESTATE CHAMBOURCIN
VIDAL BLANC ICED WINE
2021 ESTATE BLACK CURRANT WINE
CIDER
2021 GOLDEN GRANNY SEMI-DRY
Guided Tasting Experiences! To give you a welcoming, knowledgeable experience with a personal connection, Quartz Rock Vineyard exclusively serves guided tastings instead of flights. Your wine associate will guide you through a tasting by individually pouring and discussing each of the wines with you, and will be there to answer any of your questions.
34 HUDSON
WINE • 2023
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ABOUT US
IN THE SPOTLIGHT
INTRODUCING BEDROCK CIDERY
Visit the cidery for a farm-to-bottle experience that highlights the orchard fruit used to make Bedrock’s handcrafted ciders and perries! The current menu of six ciders and perries ranges from dry, bottleconditioned, unfiltered ciders to sweet, crisp blends.
Dry, bottle-conditioned, unfiltered ciders – made from a proprietary blend of apples, these ciders are fermented in the bottle and are unfiltered, with a full body and a crisp finish.
Semi-dry cider (Golden Granny) – this slightly sweet blend of Golden Russet and signature Granny Smith apples pleases both dry and sweet drinkers.
Sweet cider – blend of Mutsu, Winesap, Macoun, Golden Russett, Greening, and Northern Spy apples.
New Release! Rye-barrel aged hard cider – blend of estate apples that tastes like Rye and spiced apples.
Over the last three years, some unique cider apple and pear varieties were planted on Nightingale Farm, including Cox’s Orange Pippin, Yarlington Mills, Redfield (which has a red flesh and makes a red-orange colored juice when pressed), Reine des Pommes, Orleans Reinnette, Gelbmostler, and Normannische. The ciders made from these newly-planted varieties will be ready beginning in 2024.
GETTING HERE
FROM THE NYS THRUWAY (I-87): Exit 17 (Newburgh). Take I-84 East to Exit 39. Turn left onto 9W North. Drive 7 miles to the village of Marlboro. Turn left onto County Route 14. Drive 1.5 miles to the stop sign, and turn right onto County Route 11. Drive one mile and turn left onto Reservoir Road. Drive one mile and turn right onto Mountain Road. Winery will be on the left.
THE ESSENTIALS
ADDRESS
40 Mountain Road Marlboro, NY 12542
PHONE 845-236-3265
WEBSITE quartzrockvineyard.com
TASTING FEE
$20–$25
PET FRIENDLY Yes
TOURS
Yes; free for Wine Club Members
HOURS
Year-round Sat– Sun 12–5pm
Holiday Mondays 12–5pm
Friday hours and late hours seasonally
Closed
All major holidays
PRODUCTION
Small (less than 5,000 cases)
OWNERS
Daniel Heavens, Jacqui Ferrari Heavens
MANAGERS
Kevin Lockhart (Farm Foreman), Stephanie Knight (Hospitality Manager)
WINEMAKERS
Daniel Heavens; Megan Lamb (Assistant Winemaker)
EVENTS
JUNE – LGBTQ+ Speed Dating
– Tarot Card Readings
– Rosé Pairing/Tasting Class
AUG – Poetry Workshop and Performance
– Stand-Up Comedy Show
SEPT – Cabernet Franc Vertical
Tasting and Pairing Class
– Fire spinning performance
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STOUTRIDGE DISTILLERY & WINERY
Established 2000
STOUTRIDGE DISTILLERY & WINERY is a bold leader in high-quality, small-batch spirits and natural wines in the Hudson Valley. They believe in the power of science, art, and local agriculture and are driven by a desire to challenge the status quo. It is their belief that good things take time. The decisions they make work with nature rather than against it. For Stoutridge, details are everything. All of the work from grain and fruit to glass is done onsite, and the majority of ingredients come from the Hudson Valley.
Stoutridge offers a wide range of products that inspire guests to be adventurous. Their process uses a mixture of tradition, innovation, discovery, and sustainability to form uniquely rich and complex flavors. For over twenty years, Stoutridge has been devoted to using the best practices for their products and the planet. They have invested in technology that conserves energy and reduces their environmental impact, and are mindful in everything they do. Guests can explore a wide range of innovative flavors and distinct creations during a trip to the tasting room.
To visit the distillery and winery is to experience the care and time that has been spent to create Stoutridge—from the restoration of the old farmhouse, vineyard, and winery to the inception of the remarkable distillery. A walk outside will highlight the exceptional grounds that include native plants and a restored local ecosystem. Everything that you see has been meticulously chosen for its long-term contribution to the environment. Stoutridge is proud to have been recognized as an Ulster County Certified Green Business for their efforts.
The park-like grounds are a wonderful place to spend an afternoon and escape the everyday world. Pack a lunch, take a drive, and relax at a picnic table near the pond where you can watch nature while enjoying a bottle of wine. Or enjoy a craft beverage under a tree with a good book. Pets on leashes are welcome to come along. Stoutridge invites you to visit and experience a flavor adventure.
MEET THE WINEMAKER & DISTILLER
Stoutridge subscribes to the Natural Wine philosophy of winemaking using a gravity winemaking approach and no chemical interventions. This philosophy focuses on mastering techniques that help fermentation flavors come to the forefront of the wine, rather than techniques that bring a wine to the marketplace faster.
The distillery is primarily focused on making world-class single malt and blended whiskies using malt from Stoutridge’s malt house; and Genever-style gins from their own grain mashes and botanical recipes. Stoutridge also makes rye whiskey, which is a New York specialty, and various brandies from locallygrown fruit. They produce delightful vodkas, grain-based and grape-based, as a by-product of whiskey and brandy productions, and from these vodkas they make various gins. Recently, Stoutridge launched an innovative portfolio of liqueurs and absinthes.
SAVOR THIS
WHITE SEYVAL/RIESLING
RIDGE WHITE
ROSÉ RIDGE ROSÉ
RED
SPIRITS
MASTIHA LIQUEUR
TWELVE TURTLES RYE
Absinthe Prelude was awarded Double Gold, Best of Category, and Best Specialty Spirit at the American Distilling Institute’s (ADI) 2022 Craft Spirit competition.
36 HUDSON VALLEY WINE • 2023
ABOUT
US
CABERNET FRANC/NOIRET FRONTENAC
ABSINTHE PRELUDE SINGLE MALT WHISKEY INCOGNITO BRANDY
IN THE SPOTLIGHT
CERTIFIED GREEN
Stoutridge is proud to be recognized as an Ulster County Certified Green Business!
NEW BOTTLED-IN-BOND EXPRESSIONS
The Bottled-in-Bond Act of 1897 was enacted to address adulteration in American whiskey. To meet this standard a spirit must be the product of one distillation season by one distiller at one distillery. It must be aged in a federally bonded warehouse for at least 4 years and bottled at 100 proof. This can only be achieved by a distillery that starts with grain and ends with product in the bottle. This year Stoutridge released six different bottled-in-bond expressions.
BOTTLED IN BOND BOURBON
70/30 Corn/Rye mash aged in Hudson Valley Oak barrels.
BOTTLED IN BOND RYE
80/20 Rye/Corn mash aged in Hudson Valley Oak barrels.
ADDRESS
10 Ann Kaley Lane Marlboro, NY 12542
PHONE 845-236-7620
WEBSITE stoutridge.com
TASTING FEE
QUARTARIUM MOON
A cognac-style grape brandy finished on Agarwood.
QUARTARIUM ROOT
Crafted from barley malted in the Stoutridge on-site malt house and aged in used scotch barrels.
GETTING HERE
FROM NYS THRUWAY (I-87 N): Exit 17 (Newburgh) for I-84/NY-300. Continue on I-84 East to Exit 39 for US 9W/NY-32S (just before the Newburgh/Beacon Bridge). Continue on US 9W North for 7 miles to the village of Marlboro. Turn left onto Co Rd 14A (Western Avenue). In 0.3 miles turn right onto Prospect Street and make the first left onto Ann Kaley Lane. Proceed to the parking lot at the end of the road.
THE ESSENTIALS
PRODUCTION
Small (less than 5,000 cases)
OWNERS
Stephen Osborn and Kim Wagner
WINEMAKER
Stephen Osborn
DISTILLERS
Stephen Osborn and Kim Wagner
$20–$50 (see website for details)
PET FRIENDLY Yes (well-behaved, leashed)
HOURS
July–Aug
Mon–Wed 12–5pm
Thurs–Sun 11am–6pm
Sept–Jun
Thurs–Sun 11am–6pm
Closed
Thanksgiving, Christmas Day
EVENTS
For a complete listing of events visit stoutridge.com.
PICKUP/DELIVERY*
– Call 845-236-7620 to place an order for curbside pickup
TASTINGS
– Reservations strongly recommended
– Walk-ins accommodated as space allows
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WHITECLIFF VINEYARD
Established 1998
HAILED AS “ONE OF THE VALLEY’S most ambitious wineries,” Whitecliff takes pride in being part of a vanguard of innovators who have added European wine grapes, highquality new hybrids, and complex European-style wines to the Valley’s traditional focus on fruit wines and sweet wines. Their 30+ years of experimenting in both the vineyard and the wine cellar have shaped a winery with deep roots in the region’s traditions, producing wines that offer variety, depth, and serious fun.
After 20 years of running a tasting room that features close to 40 different wines—all fermented, blended, and bottled at Whitecliff, many from their own estate-grown grapes —Whitecliff has learned that taste is thoroughly personal, and that the quality of their hospitality is almost as important to your experience as the quality of their wine. Over the years, Whitecliff has brought many new wines into production to satisfy the broadranging tastes of their visitors, and they love to hear people exclaim, “Wow, I like them all!” They are especially proud of their lively, intelligent staff, well-trained in wine but friendly and welcoming by nature. All of this has led to Whitecliff being hailed by the local press recently as the “Best Winery in the Hudson Valley.”
The truest measure of wine quality at Whitecliff is the fact that they were able to bring a truly prestigious award home to the Hudson Valley from the San Francisco International Wine Competition, where their Riesling won “Best White Wine in Show.” That means they beat 1,290 wines from 27 countries and 28 states, in a blind judging by 45 respected judges. This was a victory not only for Whitecliff, but for the whole region, as it closes the discussion as to whether the Hudson Valley’s local wines can compete on the world stage!
Regional, authentic, and artisanal, Whitecliff reflects everything that is unique about the beautiful Hudson Valley.
MEET THE OWNERS AND WINEMAKERS
As executive winemaker and vineyard manager, and with a Masters in Chemistry from SUNY New Paltz, Michael Migliore applied his background in science to teaching himself the chemistry and art of winemaking. He works closely with Cornell Cooperative Extension and also serves as president of the Hudson Valley Wine and Grape Growers Association. Yancey Stanforth-Migliore oversees sales and marketing, taking inspiration from her previous work as fundraiser for Scenic Hudson. They are proud to be joined by the next generation, their son Tristan Migliore, as General Manager in the business.
Brad Martz joined Whitecliff as a volunteer on the 2010 harvest, and brought so much focus, energy, and intelligence to the cellar work that they are now proud to have him as their full-time winemaker. His work brings international awards and interesting new wines to Whitecliff with every vintage.
SAVOR THIS
WHITE AWOSTING WHITE CHARDONNAY RESERVE CHARDONNAY
DRY RIESLING VIDAL BLANC
ROSÉ
ESTATE 2022 DRY ROSÉ RED
ESTATE CABERNET FRANC
ESTATE RESERVE GAMAY NOIR
ESTATE LANDMARK RED
MERLOT MALBEC
SKY ISLAND
SYRAH TWO CABS
SPARKLING
ESTATE NORTH RIVER BLANC DE BLANC
DESSERT
ESTATE BOURBON BARREL BLONDE 2016
Judges awarded Whitecliff “Best Winery in the Hudson Valley” at the 2022 Hudson Valley Wine Competition, along with “Best Sparkling,” “Best Hudson Valley Wine” for their Cabernet Franc, and a “Double Gold” award for their Vidal Blanc.
38 HUDSON VALLEY WINE • 2023
ABOUT US
PHOTOS: Rima Brindamour; Tom Ligamari (top right)
IN THE SPOTLIGHT
VISIT WHITECLIFF IN TWO STUNNING LOCATIONS!
Whitecliff is celebrated for wine quality and beautiful views, and this year they are offering these in two equally beautiful locations.
Visit Whitecliff in Ulster County at the home vineyard and tasting room in Gardiner overlooking the Gunks. Or, stop by their new vineyard and tasting room near the trendy town of Hudson, overlooking the Catskill Mountains, the Hudson River, and the Rip Van Winkle Bridge in Columbia County. Make plans to visit both!
THE ESSENTIALS
ADDRESS
331 McKinstry Road Gardiner, NY 12525
Hudson Tasting Room: 4150 Route 23, Hudson NY 12534
PHONE
845-255-4613; 838-209-9248 (Hudson)
WEBSITE whitecliffwine.com
TASTING FEE
Various flights: $15–$20 with glass
PRODUCTION Medium (5,000 to 10,000 cases)
HOURS
Gardiner: Jun–Oct
Mon–Fri, Sun 12–5:30pm Sat 12–7pm
Hudson: Jun–Oct
Mon–Thurs, Sun 1–6pm
GETTING HERE
FROM THE NYS THRUWAY (RT. 87): Exit 18, New Paltz. Turn left onto Route 299. Drive through the town, across the Wallkill River and bear left onto County Route 7 at the fork after Wallkill View Farm. Stay on Route 7 for 7.9 miles and turn left onto Route 7A, McKinstry Road. Whitecliff is 0.8 miles along on the right.
Fri–Sat 12–7pm
Closed New Year’s Day, Easter, Thanksgiving, Christmas Day
OWNERS / MANAGERS
Michael Migliore, Yancey Stanforth-Migliore and Tristan Migliore
Christine Ascolese, Tasting Room Manager, Gardiner
Jackie Garrofalo
Tasting Room Manager, Hudson
WINEMAKERS
Brad Martz and Michael Migliore
EVENTS
Check the website for upcoming events.
TASTINGS
– Plenty of outdoor tables with spectacular views to enjoy tastings, snacks and artisanal Hudson Valley cheese plates, and wine by the glass.
– Indoor seating available. Reservations strongly recommended for groups of 6 or more.
hvwinemag.com • 2023 39
ULSTER
MILEA ESTATE VINEYARD
Established 2015
THE 98-ACRE MILEA ESTATE VINEYARD is a very successful winery in the historic Hudson River Region, dedicated to capturing the unique, natural environmental benefits of soil, climate, and sunlight to produce outstanding, award-winning wines. Located in one of the oldest wine-growing regions in the entire country, Milea Estate Vineyard is in the heart of the fertile Hudson Valley, 80 miles north of New York City, nestled among beautiful rolling hills and surrounded by beautiful streams, horse pastures, dairies, and orchards. It is at the very center of the nation’s most exciting, diverse and up-andcoming farm-to-table movement.
The Milea Estate Vineyard’s winemaking approach is firmly grounded in Old World traditions, using estate-grown or locally-sourced varietals that thrive in the area’s unique soil and climate conditions. The topography of the Hudson Valley is perfectly suited for fruit production, with the first vineyards in the region dating back to 1677. What does all of this mean for Milea Estate Vineyard? From its first crush in 2015 that resulted in award-winning wines, the vineyard has maintained its high wine-making standards, continuing to produce extraordinary varietals that are continuously growing in popularity with wine connoisseurs. They are committed to crafting the finest Bordeaux influenced wines in New York State.
Milea Estate Vineyard consistently produces fresh, clean, crisp and balanced wines that pair elegantly with all types of food and appeal to everyone’s taste. In 2019, Milea Estate Vineyard opened its elegant tasting room with spectacular views of the vineyard and surrounding countryside. The tasting room is open to visitors Wednesday through Sunday. There is also a magnificent event space, which can be used by wine lovers to host tasting parties.
Milea Estate Vineyard is proud of the awards won at the New York State Wine Classic and the Hudson Valley Wine & Spirits Competition, as well as its selection by the Culinary Institute of America as the wine of choice for Hyde Park events.
MEET THE OWNERS
In 1984, Barry Milea and his father purchased part of the Rymph Family Farm, a property that Barry fell in love with, and dreamed of returning it to its farming origins.
In the summer of 2015, Barry Milea, Ed Evans, and Bruce Tripp formed Milea Estate Vineyard. Their focus was to produce quality wines from fruit grown in the Hudson River Region. Barry added adjoining land to the property in 2016, culminating in a 98-acre estate with some of the best soil and most beautiful landscapes in the country, perfect for the Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, Riesling, and other wines that the vineyard now produces. The Hudson River Region is not only one of the oldest grape-growing regions in the U.S., but is also the place that Barry, Ed, and Bruce call home. Bruce and Ed are responsible for planting, harvesting, and producing the exquisite wines that Milea Estate Vineyard offers, while Barry focuses on the business side, ensuring Milea Estate Vineyard’s growth and prosperity in the market.
SAVOR THIS
WHITE
2021 RESERVE CHARDONNAY
2021 GRÜNER VELTLINER
2022 VIGNOLES
ROSÉ
2022 ROSÉ RED
2021 SANG’S VINEYARD CABERNET FRANC
2021 VINCENZA RESERVE
BDX BLEND
2021 CABERNET FRANC
2021 BDX BLEND
SPARKLING
PROCEEDO WHITE PROCEEDO ROSÉ
This year marks the inaugural release of the 2021 Sang’s Vineyard Cabernet Franc. This exclusive Cabernet Franc opens with aromas of black pepper, tobacco leaf, and dark fruits and continues on the palate with silky, tannin tension building acidity and a lengthy finish. It is a prize of the Hudson Valley.
40 HUDSON
WINE • 2023
VALLEY
ABOUT
US
IN THE SPOTLIGHT
NAMED BEST WINERY IN THE HUDSON VALLEY!
Milea Estate Vineyard was recently named Best Winery in the Hudson Valley, and has won numerous other prestigious awards for its wines:
2022 Best Chardonnay in New York State New York Wine Classic
2022 Best Winery in the Hudson Valley Best of Hudson Valley Magazine
2022 Best Cabernet Franc in New York Great American International Wine Competition
2022 Best Gin in New York State Denver International Spirits Competition
2021 Best Rosé Winery in the Hudson Valley Best of Hudson Valley Magazine
2021 Best Cabernet Sauvignon Winery in New York State New York International Wine Competition
THE ESSENTIALS
PRODUCTION
ADDRESS
450 Hollow Road Staatsburg, NY 12580
PHONE 845-266-0384
WEBSITE
MileaEstateVineyard.com
TASTING FEE
$20-26
TOURS
Private Tasting & Tours: By Request
HOURS
Small (less than 5,000 cases)
OWNERS
Barry Milea, Bruce Tripp, Ed Evans
GENERAL MANAGER
Russell Moss
MANAGER Ed Evans
WINEMAKER
Bruce Tripp
EVENTS
GETTING HERE
FROM TACONIC STATE PARKWAY:
Take Salt Point Turnpike (NY-115) towards Poughkeepsie. Drive .6 miles and turn right onto Hollow Road (CR-14). Continue for 5.4 miles.
Milea Estate Vineyard is on the left.
FROM ROUTE NY-9G: Exit Hollow Road (CR-14) East. Continue 2.3 miles. Milea Estate Vineyard will be on the right.
Year-round Wed–Thurs 12–5pm Fri–Sat 12–7pm Sun 12–5pm Closed New Year’s Day, Easter, Thanksgiving, Christmas Day
Check the website for upcoming events.
PICKUP/DELIVERY*
Open for pickup on days and hours listed at left.
*until further notice
hvwinemag.com • 2023 41
DUTCHESS
HARVEST SPIRITS
Established 2006
HARVEST SPIRITS DISTILLERY IS SITUATED in the beautiful Hudson River Valley and located at Golden Harvest Farms, a third-generation apple farm and iconic Columbia County fixture, known for its year-round farm stand, fresh fruit sales, pick-your-own apples, and of course, their delicious cider donuts.
Harvest Spirits Farm Distillery products are crafted in the “tree to bottle” method, with the apples grown steps from the distillery then pressed, fermented, distilled, and bottled all on-site. Working closely with several local farms, Harvest Spirits is a true Farm Distillery, promoting strong ties among the local farmers and sharing information readily, from farm to bottle.
Having helped to forge the way in New York craft distilling, Harvest Spirits received New York State’s first Farm Distillery license in 2007 and shortly after produced New York’s first Applejack since the Prohibition era. Their award-winning spirits truly express the terroir of the Hudson River Valley and pay tribute to the abundant variety of the local fruit.
Step into the distillery and you will get a sense of the homegrown and eclectic mix that has created this iconic place and space, where history, innovation, creativity, and the pioneering spirit have built incredible experiences and truly exceptional products. Sample their award-winning spirits, enjoy a cocktail or a draft of local hard cider or beer out on their deck under the wisteria blooms. Either way, a visit to this unique place where it all began should be top on your list.
Harvest Spirits never compromises on quality. Their products are homegrown and meticulously handcrafted on the farm. Never any neutral grain spirits. No artificial ingredients, colors, or sugars added. One hundred percent gluten-free, excepting the whiskey, of course. One hundred percent family-owned and operated and independently distributed. The distillery is open daily for tastings, cocktails, and bottle sales.
MEET THE DISTILLER
Derek Grout is a third-generation apple farmer and the distiller at Harvest Spirits. He is actively in charge of the distillery and all aspects of the distilling process, as well as product development. Derek’s responsibilities range from designing product packaging and website development, to promoting the products, to scrubbing the tanks.
A graduate of Cornell University, Derek began his career as a graphic designer in Boston, MA. After spending too much time in front of a computer, he decided to return to his (literal) roots. In 2003, Derek moved back to his family’s apple farm in the Hudson Valley to help his father and to learn the family business of growing apples. When he’s not in the distillery, he continues to help out around the farm.
SAVOR THIS
VODKA
CORE VODKA
BLACK RASPBERRY VODKA
GIN
CORE GIN
APPLEJACK
CORNELIUS APPLEJACK
PEACH APPLEJACK
CHERRY APPLEJACK
DISTILLER’S RESERVE APPLEJACK
WHISKEY
JOHN HENRY WHISKEY
BRANDY
PEAR BRANDY
House-made craft cocktails, a wide selection of local beer and hard cider draft and by the can, and the Harvest Smokehouse is now open! Check website for more details.
42 HUDSON
• 2023
VALLEY WINE
ABOUT
US
IN THE SPOTLIGHT
NOW OPEN! COCKTAIL GARDEN AND SMOKEHOUSE BBQ
Join Harvest Spirits for a cold cocktail in the cocktail garden, and applewood-smoked BBQ from the farm smokehouse. Serving up creative house-made cocktails from fresh ingredients and Harvest’s own spirits, rotating kegs on draft, plus a well curated selection of local wine, hard cider, and beer. The smokehouse specialties include St. Louis ribs, jerk chicken, and select sandwiches.
DOUBLE BALSAMIC APPLE VINEGAR
Newly released after years in the making, Harvest’s Hudson Valley Double Balsamic Vinegar is two times richer, thicker, and more flavorful than before. Made in very small batches and aged in 3-gallon oak barrels, the double balsamic sets the new standard for flavor and quality in apple cider vinegar.
THE ESSENTIALS
PRODUCTION
ADDRESS
3074 US Route 9 Valatie, NY 12184
PHONE 518-758-1776
WEBSITE harvestspirits.com
TASTING FEE
$5
GETTING HERE
FROM ALBANY AREA: Take Interstate I-90 East to Exit 12. Continue on Rt. 9 South for four miles. Harvest Spirits is on the left.
FROM NYS THRUWAY (RT. 87): Exit 21A for the Berkshire Extension. Follow to exit B1. Continue on Rt. 9 South for four miles. Harvest Spirits is on the left.
HOURS
Year-round
Mon–Thurs 11am–5pm Fri–Sun 11am–6pm
Smokehouse
Thurs–Mon 11am–6pm
Closed New Year’s Day, Easter, Thanksgiving, Christmas Day
Small (less than 5,000 cases)
OWNERS
Derek Grout and Ashley Hartka
MANAGER
Peter Upstill
DISTILLER
Derek Grout
EVENTS
Visit harvestspirits.com/events for updates.
COCKTAIL GARDEN
– Seasonal cocktail garden has expanded seating
– Reserve your own private fire pit
– Check website for live music
hvwinemag.com • 2023 43
DISTILLERY
HELDERBERG MEADWORKS
Established 2012
HELDERBERG MEADWORKS is a unique “winery” located at the edge of the Helderberg Mountains where fresh water and local raw honey are used to craft the finest mead. They are one of the few meaderies in the state who primarily produce mead. Owner and meadmaker Peter Voelker has been making mead for many years. In 2010, he decided to open Helderberg Meadworks to share what he considers to be the best mead in the country.
In 2015 he was able to purchase more land to expand their small orchard and add a vineyard. While working hard to clear the land and plant rows of fruit, he was able to truly appreciate the beauty of the location and the view overlooking the mountains. It was clear this would be the location of their tasting room, a perfect setting to relax and enjoy his mead and cider.
Inspired by their Apple Mead, in 2016 Helderberg Meadworks began producing hard cider. The philosophy of using all-natural ingredients extends to their ciders, allowing them to bring out crisp, fresh apple flavor. Thanks to positive customer feedback at festivals, hard cider became a permanent addition to their tasting room offerings. In addition to mead and cider, Helderberg makes a rare product called a “braggot,” a beer/mead hybrid made with grains and hops. They have collaborated with such Capital District breweries as Brown’s Brewing, Serious Brewing and Rare Form Brewing Company to produce a wide variety of braggots. Who is next? Follow Helderberg Meadworks on social media to be the first to know!
2022 marked the opening of a second meadhall in Troy, NY. While the Esperance tasting room will remain the primary location with large events, the Troy meadhall provides the Capital Region with a location that is closer to home and follows the downtown Troy vibe. Come and enjoy the same award-winning product line and atmosphere in a new location. Check the website for open hours.
MEET THE MEAD MAKER
Peter Voelker is an engineer by degree. His love for creating something personal and unique combined with a passion for history drove him to experiment with and study mead. He was born in NYC and lived his life in the Hudson Valley and Capital Region. He got his start making homebrew as soon as he graduated college, then branched out into other beverages. He began making mead over 20 years ago and has been perfecting it ever since.
Having discovered through genealogy that he is a descendant of the first King of Norway, Harald Fairhair, Peter developed a mead that he would feel honored to raise in a toast with his ancestor. In honor of that link, the label for Heritage was designed to include the “Swords in Mountain” monument of three bronze swords standing 30 feet tall. That monument was erected in Norway to commemorate King Harald’s historic final battle of Hafrsfjord.
SAVOR THIS
MEAD
HERITAGE MEAD
MAPLE MEAD
ODIN’S TEARS DRY MEAD
FERAL MEAD
SWEET FERAL MEAD
STAGHORN MEAD
BLACK CURRANT MEAD
CHERRY VANILLA SWEET MEAD
PEPPER MEAD, MEDIUM SPICY
SESSION MEAD
LOKI’S LURE
CIDER
CLASSIC HARD CIDER
MAPLE HARD CIDER
CASSIS HARD CIDER
CHERRY HARD CIDER
Join the Horn Club for access to exclusive and experimental meads! Each Horn Club release is identified by a number—the newest, 1001003, already promises to be a best seller. Membership is $50 and comes with a drinking horn and holster, exclusive discounts, and a glass fill punch card. Plus, every 10th fill is free!
44 HUDSON VALLEY WINE • 2023
ABOUT
US
IN THE SPOTLIGHT
NATIONAL MEAD WEEKEND!
National Mead Day is the first Saturday in August. Helderberg has turned it into an entire weekend with live music and a variety of vendors, including contestants from the TV show Forged in Fire. It’s their biggest event of the year and you won’t want to miss it!
CUSTOM MEADS
Helderberg Meadworks has once again broken the mold. This time, by creating a series of custom meads designed for local bands. Pillage! was created for local hardcore band Brick by Brick. Known for their legendary love of Jack Daniels, this mead was designed to be their strongest offering at 17% ABV and heavily oaked. Blood of the Wasted was created for local hard rock icons The Erotics. Singer/ guitarist Mike Trash’s love of Helderberg’s Pepper Mead is no secret, so together they designed a new pepper mead tailored to his personal taste. There’s more in the pipeline too!
THE ESSENTIALS
ADDRESS
6144 Route 30 Esperance, NY 12066
Troy Tasting Room: 45 3rd Street, Troy, NY 12180
PHONE
518-795-8964
WEBSITE helderbergmeadworks.com
TASTING FEE
$5 for 7 tastes; $15 for all with souvenir glass
HOURS
Year-round Thurs–Fri 5–9pm Sat 12–9pm Sun 12–5pm Closed New Year’s Day, Easter, Thanksgiving, Christmas Day
GETTING HERE
FROM NYS THRUWAY I-90: Exit 25A, I-88. Take I-88 to Exit 24, then Route 20 West for nine miles. Turn right onto State Hwy 30 North for two miles. Mead Hall is on the right.
TOURS No
PRODUCTION
Small (less than 5,000 cases)
OWNERS
Peter and Kirsten Voelker
MANAGER
Peter Voelker
MEAD MAKER
Peter Voelker
EVENTS
Aug 5–6
National Mead Weekend
Visit the website for updates on events.
hvwinemag.com • 2023 45
MEADERY
ROSÉS
SIPS
FOR EVERY STYLE
Below, an at-a-glance guide to some of your favorite types of beverages and must-try bottles from local producers.
You’ll find most local wineries produce a rosé; styles range from dry to semi-sweet. Try these pink-hued refreshers:
c Nostrano Vineyard’s Ava Rosé
c Benmarl Winery’s Dry Rosé
c Stoutridge Winery’s Ridge Rosé
c Applewood Winery’s Vineyard Sunset
c City Winery’s Rosé of Pinot Noir
SPARKLINGS
Bubblies continue to make a splash in the Hudson Valley. Try these fun sparklers or naturally-fermented, fizzy styles:
c Brotherhood Winery’s “B” Sparkling
c Milea Estate Vineyard’s Proceedo
c Benmarl’s Pétillant
c Nostrano’s Arae Pétillant Naturel
Or, a classic style:
c Whitecliff Vineyard’s North River Blanc de Blanc
CRISP WHITES
Steely Chards, zippy Rieslings, and herbaceous Grüners are just some of the wines that fit the bill:
c Benmarl’s Stainless Steel Chardonnay
c Milea’s Reserve Chardonnay
c City Winery’s In Bloom Grüner Veltliner
c Nostrano’s Estate Dry Riesling
c Whitecliff’s Dry Riesling
AROMATIC WHITES
Taste these flavorful and satisfying wines bursting with fresh fruit and floral aromas:
c Applewood’s Traminette
c Whitecliff’s Awosting White
c Milea’s Vignoles
c Brotherhood Winery’s Gewürztraminer
c Baldwin Vineyards’ Illusions
c Quartz Rock Vineyard’s Estate
Seyval Blanc
APPROACHABLE REDS
For every day, easy-drinking bottles to please a crowd or pair with pizza, try single varietals, like:
c Applewood’s Merlot
c Quartz Rock’s Unoaked Noiret
c Warwick Valley Winery’s Black Dirt Red
c Milea’s Blaufränkisch
Or blends:
c Brotherhood’s New York Red
c Nostrano’s Rustic Red
c Whitecliff’s Estate Landmark Red
BIG REDS
If bold aromas and spicy, rich flavors suit your style, try:
c City Winery’s Reserve Zinfandel
c Milea’s Sang’s Vineyard Cabernet Franc
c Benmarl’s Malbec
c Whitecliff’s Two Cabs
ON THE SWEET SIDE
As an aperitif or after dinner, these semi-sweet and dessert wines will satisfy your cravings:
c Baldwin’s Late Harvest Riesling
c Baldwin’s Strawberry Wine
c Quartz Rock’s Estate Black Currant Wine
For something different, try:
c Stoutridge Distillery’s Mastiha Fantasy
c Helderberg Meadworks Cherry Vanilla
Sweet Mead
c Naked Flock Smashed Cherry Mead Cider
BARREL AGED
From absinthes and brandies to Bottled-in-Bond bourbons and ryes, you’ll find many different expressions of wood-aged spirits. Try:
c Harvest Spirits Distiller’s Reserve Applejack
c Black Dirt’s 4-Year Bourbon
c Stoutridge’s Quartarium Root
For other beverages that spend time in barrel, try:
c Whitecliff’s Barrel Aged Blonde
c Bedrock’s Barrel-Aged Hard Cider
48 HUDSON VALLEY WINE • 2023
EXPLORE MORE Scan for staff picks from each producer
Milea
Map of the Region
Schenectady County
Helderberg Meadworks 6144 Route 30, Esperance I helderbergmeadworks.com
Rensselaer County
Helderberg Meadworks 45 3rd Street, Troy I helderbergmeadworks.com
Columbia County
Harvest Spirits
3074 US Route 9, Valatie I harvestspirits.com
Whitecliff Vineyard – Hudson Tasting Room
4150 Route 23, Hudson I whitecliffwine.com
Ulster County
Baldwin Vineyards
176 Hardenburgh Road, Pine Bush I baldwinvineyards.com
Benmarl Winery
156 Highland Avenue, Marlboro I benmarl.com
Nostrano Vineyards
14 Gala Lane, Milton I nostranovineyards.com
Quartz Rock Vineyard
40 Mountain Road, Marlboro I quartzrockvineyard.com
Stoutridge Distillery & Winery
10 Ann Kaley Lane, Marlboro I stoutridge.com
Whitecliff Vineyard 331 McKinstry Road, Gardiner I whitecliffwine.com
Dutchess County
Milea Estate Vineyard 450 Hollow Road, Staatsburg I mileaestatevineyard.com
Orange County
Applewood Winery
82 Four Corners Road, Warwick I applewoodwinery.com
Angry Orchard
2241 Albany Post Road, Walden I angryorchard.com
Brotherhood Winery 100 Brotherhood Plaza Drive, Washingtonville brotherhood-winery.com
City Winery Hudson Valley 23 Factory Street, Montgomery citywinery.com/hudsonvalley
Warwick Valley Winery & Black Dirt Distillery 114 Little York Road, Warwick wvwinery.com I blackdirtdistillery.com
Trails
Shawangunk Wine Trail
See trail members on page 9 I gunkswine.com
Benmarl
A Buy in Greene | Invest in Greene Economic Development & Planning 411 Main Street, 4th Floor, Catskill I investingreene.com
B Columbia County Tourism 401 State Street, Hudson I columbiacountytourism.org
C Great Northern Catskills 700 Rte 23B, Leeds I greatnortherncatskills.com
D Hudson Valley Wine & Food Festival Dutchess County Fairgrounds, 6550 Spring Brook Avenue Rhinebeck I hudsonvalleywine fest.com
E Independent Helicopters LLC 758 Aviation Avenue, New Windsor independenthelicopters.com
F Mirror Lake Inn Resort and Spa/The View Restaurant 77 Mirror Lake Drive, Lake Placid I mirrorlakeinn.com
G Modern Makers Market 1 Chestnut Street, Cold Spring I hopsonthehudson.com
H Orange County Tourism 99 Main Street, Goshen I orangetourism.org
I Putnam County Wine Fest Wells Park, 98 Oak Street, Brewster putnamcountywinefest.com
J Town & Country Liquors 330 NY-212, Saugerties I townandcountryliquorstore.com
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Winery
Vineyards
Nostrano
Estate Vineyard Stoutridge Distillery & Winery
Rock Vineyard Brotherhood Winery WINE SPIRITS MEAD CIDER
Quartz
Whitecliff Vineyard Baldwin Vineyards
Applewood Winery
Angry Orchard
Whitecliff Vineyard
Helderberg Meadworks
b
City Winery
Right Off The Thruway — Exit 20 in the CVS Plaza Open 7 Days: Mon - Sat 10-9, Sun 12-5 Town & Country Liquors CVS Plaza • Rt. 212 • Saugerties, NY 12477 townandcountryliquorstore.com Great discounts. Friendly, helpful staff. Phone: 845.246.8931 • Fax: 856.246.7354 • Email: grenache@aol.com Wine Tastings • Fridays & Saturdays from 4-7pm Fine Wine & Spirits thisMention ad for 25% off a case of wine (cash only)