정현주포트폴리오졸업반 1

Page 1

JUNG

HYUNJU


01

VOGUING -LESS?

CONTENTS

02

THE SECONDARY SEXUAL CHARACTER _ ADULT BODY LINE

03

ETHNIC _ HOPI GIRL x BLANCA JAGGER (WHITE MINIMAL FEMINE

CONTENTS

critic by JUUN.J teacher SUKEE KO


DIVISIONLESS VOGUING IS BLUE

MEN’S

MEN’S MEN’S

MEN’S MEN’S

MEN’S

TEAM : LESS CRITIC BY JUUN.J TEACHER SUKEE KO DESIGN BY JUNG HYUNJOO


INSPIRATION VOGUING


OLDWAY

FANCY

STRONG

Voguing has two big style which are the old way and the new way. The old way represents a fluid line using the curves of the body, and the new way represents a geometrical line by using a rigid line of the body, acting by facial expressions and hand gestures. It is expressed in motion, expression, and stage costume regardless sex or race difference. A genre of voguing was created by the disadvantaged (blacks, genders, and bisexuals) who were oppressed in the 1960s. Voguing, in the sixties, which has been treated only as a small performance in the ballroom scene (now club) with its own stage, has now become a genre. In the postmodernism, the boundary of dichotomy disappeared which meant no distinction of gender and role.

NEWWAY


NEW WAY

NEW WAY

OLD WAY

gloves

OLD WAY

gloves

gloves

gloves


FABRIC FITTING

FABRIC FITTING

FABRIC FITTING



FABRIC FITTING

FABRIC FITTING

FABRIC FITTING

FABRIC FITTING

FABRIC FITTING

FABRIC FITTING


REFERNCE

60’s

This article is about a longsleeved article of clothing. For Nehru vest, see Bandi (jacket). For the album by Himanshu Suri, see Nehru Jackets. The Nehru jacket is a hip-length tailored coat for men or women, with a mandarin collar, and with its front modelled on the Indian achkan or sherwani, a garment worn by Jawaharlal Nehru, the Prime Minister of India from 1947 to 1964. The Nehru jacket’s history can be traced back to the Mughal years when the courtier’s choga be came the garment of the rich and the powerful. In its later avatars, it became the north Indian male’s idea of formal wear - sherwani, achkan, the bandhgala and finally the bandi. The apparel was created in India in the 1940s as Band Gale Ka Coat (English: “Closed Neck Coat”) and has been popular on the Indian subcontinent ever since, especially as the top half of a suit worn on formal occasions. Unlike the achkan, which falls somewhere below the knees of the wearer, the Nehru jacket is shorter. Jawaharlal Nehru, notably, never wore a Nehru jacket

NEHRU COLLER

SAFARI POCKET

nehru suit safari ruffle


dancer

gloves mash belt

second-class citizen

madonna vogue

REFERNCE


PROCESS

보깅댄서 WILLY NINJA 의 움직임에서 얻어낸 기하학적 모양을 도형으로 단순화 시켜서 구조선을 접목시킴

Contrary to the colorful movements of the dancers, music, stage costumes, cosmetics (showy details and silhouettes), since a genre of voguing was created by the disadvantaged of the those day, this collection goes with (BLUE) mood which symbolizes depression. In compliance with BLUE mood, using blue, navy, and black for the color chip of the collection, I try to express the mysterious and genderless movement with the mood of depression and so called soft gothic. In addition, the fancy details are expressed as augmented the volume of clothes. (With no boundaries of distinction), the coexistence of inner and outer, that is, the inner and outer boundaries are broken down. They are represented, not by complete deconstructionism, but constructionism which seems more like deconstruction by expressing coexistence with construction. In the movement of Voguing, the Old way is combined with draping on shilouette and fabric and the strict shoulder line of nehru suit which shows natural silhouette, in the ‘60s, is applied to this collection and I used a structural line in a geometric shape for sleeves and curls. A big movement of voguing and a whisper of the oppressed disadvantaged’s performance arouses butterfly effect which makes modern dance voguing.In this point of view, deriving the keywords WIDE, and tried to combine with proportion of shilouette.


PROCESS

몸이 움직이면서 잡힐 수 있는 주름을 대략적으로 드레이핑하여 디테일을 연구


MOOD

MOOD


MUSE

BLUE HALF DECONSTRUCTION

WDIE

SOFT GOTHIC

VOGUING IS BLUE


FABRIC


BOARD


METRIAL DEVELOPMENT


J H J O O seseon concept VOGUING IS BLUE ( WIDE SOFTGOTHIC BLUE)

SELVEDGE DEVELOPMENT

SIDE SEEM 옆선의 시접에 셀비지 자수 디테일

SIDE SEEM 옆선의 시접에 셀비지 자수 디테일


FABRIC BOARD



INNER WEAR


BACK

CROQUI

NGISED FO TNEMEPOLEVED

DEVELOPEMENT


DESIGN





collection


FINAL SELECT


collection


FINAL SELECT


FITTING

1

illust

flat


GNITTIF

2

illust flat


FITTING illust

3

flat


GNITTIF

4

flat

illust

gloves flat



LOOK BOOK

DIVISIONLESS IN & OUT W I D E


paris is burning paris is burning paris is burning

paris is burning paris is burning paris is burning


LOOK 1



‘Voguing: The Message’ traces the roots of this gay, Black and Latino dance form, which appropriates and plays with poses and images from mainstream fashion. Voguing competitions parody fashion shows and rate the contestants on the basis of movement, appearance and costume. This tape is a pre-Madonna primer that raises questions about race, sex and subcultural style.



AyaBambi & artifata Willy Ninja


Inspired by the style of Ancient Egyptian Hieroglyphs and the famous model poses of Vogue magazine, voguing is characterized by model-like poses integrated with angular, linear, and rigid arm, leg, and body movements.

この舞踏会は1960年代初頭にアフリカ系アメリカ人の女装したハーレムのハーレムから始まりました彼らは判事たちを感動させるために「影」や「他人への侮辱」を投げかけました もともとは「プレゼンテーション」 と呼ばれ、後に上


上演された。



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