Implementing Advanced Knowledge
bits
6.5.1 Fab Textiles
IaaC / Fab Lab Research
Fab Textiles
Fab Lab Textiles questions the way fashion industry and education have transformed our life in a given fast and unconscious way. Inside a triggering and innovative environment, the fab lab sets the ground for experimentation on new materials and processes through a technological prism that addresses innovation and entrepreneurship. New ways of manufacture arise combining traditional methods and new digital tools. This applied research is about integrating technological advances into the textile industry and education. IaaC have been part of it through three projects that have been developed in collaboration with Fab Lab Barcelona: Dessellate, Hemp Fibre Fashion and SeamLess
Dresselate
Dressellate explores folding techniques by transforming a 2D pattern and a piece of fabric, into a 3D volume. The prototype, made from thin plastic sheets is a study of the volumetry of the body. The final piece is a double sided organic fabric covered with a natural resin that provides rigidness. The main concept of this project is to work through a digital pattern applied to the fabric attributes properties that are considered the basic tool of design. As a consequence, different volumes of folding are shaped around the body.
Hemp Fibre Fashion
The Barcelona Fab textiles based in the Stigmergic Fibers (A new approach to material behaviour) designed by Jean Akanish, Jin Shihui, Alexander Dolan and Ali Yerdel in the Master for Advanced Architecture (IAAC 20122013_Digital Tectonics – Fabrication Ecologies) has been working in a new technology for fashion design related with natural hemp fibers. This material is a non-woven material that allows applications without sewing on structures allowing continuity and multiple densities. Using natural hemp fibers and white glue, the application on wearables opens new concepts in fashion design based on ecological concepts. Cover - Hemp Fibre Fashion, IaaC Archive Figure 1 - Dresselate, IaaC Archive 2
Figure 2, 3 - SeamLess, IaaC Archive 4
Figure 4, 5 - SeamLess, IaaC Archive
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SeamLess
Digital Fabrication jacket uses a variety of digital and analog tools. Using digital computing and fabrication methods we are able to rapidly prototype and assemble new designs. You can use any 2D or 3D software to create patterns ready for cutting. The machines allow us a wide range of possibilities, so try to take advantage of the accuracy, precision, and repetitions these machines can achieve. If you don’t have them, these tools can be found at your local Fab Lab, tech shop, or digital fabrication laboratory (if you don’t have them at home, and aside from the laser cutter, you probably will) book a time slot for fabrication with your local fablab or tech shop. The main recomended Tools & Materials are the following: Sewing Machine, Needle & Thread, Laser Cutter, Fabric (3meters), Pattern. Most materials are suitable for this application, and depending on the type of effect you would like to create, a stiffer material, preferably felt, neoprene, firm interlock knit, will stay in place, where a chiffon or silk will have more mobility. What is important is to find a pattern: Weather you make a shirt, dress, jacket, or pants we can create patterns and cut and parametrically design clothes. In this sense, the best is to find a size of the laser cutting machine so in this manner is possible to know how the cut extents of material will be. It is possible to laser cut on paper or any other extra material almost any kind of design. After it, it is necessary to sew or pin together to make sure everything fits well and is constructable. Finally, is the moment to adjust the model and choose the details that are relevant for the final version, which can have many variations or one consistent pattern. It is possible as well to rescale the model and fit most of the pieces within the constraints of the material as well as the laser cut in order to send the file. Thisproject is an investigation that covers the last years in the Fab Lab in order to rethink the seam and explore it as a design element in clothing. The idea is to use digital manufacturing as a tool for the development of digital joins to make a collection in laser cutting machine.
Figure 6 - Laser Cut Seamless, IaaC Archive Figure 7 - Laser Cut Seamless, IaaC Archive
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IAAC BITS
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DIRECTOR:
IAAC SCIENTIFIC COMMITTEE:
Manuel Gausa, IaaC Co-Founder
EDITORIAL COORDINATOR Jordi Vivaldi, IaaC bits Editorial Coordinator
EDITORIAL TEAM Manuel Gausa, IaaC Co-Founder Silvia Brandi, Communication & Publication Jordi Vivaldi, IaaC bits Editorial Coordinator
ADVISORY BOARD: Areti Markopoulou, IaaC Academic Director Tomas Diez, Fab Lab Bcn Director Mathilde Marengo, Academic Coordinator Ricardo Devesa, Advanced Theory Concepts Maite Bravo, Advanced Theory Concepts
Nader Tehrani, Architect, Director MIT School Architecture, Boston Juan Herreros, Architect, Professor ETSAM, Madrid Neil Gershenfeld, Physic, Director CBA MIT, Boston Hanif Kara, Engineer, Director AKT, London Vicente Guallart, IaaC Co-Founder Willy Muller, IaaC Co-Founder Aaron Betsky, Architect & Art Critic, Director Cincinnati Art Museum, Cincinnati Hugh Whitehead, Engineer, Director Foster+ Partners technology, London Nikos A. Salingaros, Professor at the University of Texas, San Antonio Salvador Rueda, Ecologist, Director Agencia Ecologia Urbana, Barcelona Artur Serra, Anthropologist, Director I2CAT, Barcelona
DESIGN: Ramon Prat, ACTAR Editions
IAAC BIT FIELDS: 1. Theory for Advanced Knowledge 2. Advanced Cities and Territories 3. Advanced Architecture 4. Digital Design and Fabrication 5. Interactive Societies and Technologies 6. Self-Sufficient Lands
PUBLISHED BY: Institute for Advanced Architecture of Catalonia ISSN 2339 - 8647 CONTACT COMMUNICATIONS & PUBLICATIONS OFFICE: communication@iaac.net
Institut for Advanced Architecture of Catalonia Barcelona Pujades 102 08005 Barcelona, Spain T +34 933 209 520 F +34 933 004 333 ana.martinez@coac.net www.iaac.net
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