A-mag – Amsterdam Magazine: Vol 2, No. 5 by amsterdam&partners

AMSTERDAM MAGAZINE

SIGHTS & SOUNDS ART & FASHION COMPLETE LISTINGS SEP & OCT 2014

Vol 2 NO 5 €2.95

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Arnold Schönberg – 2 - 23 September 2014

Rudi van Dantzig – From 14 September 2014

Het Grachtenhuis Herengracht 386

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AMSTERDAM MAGAZINE

VOL 2 N0 5 SEP & OCT 2014

THE ESSENCE

CONTENTS P.06 WHAT’S NEW?

City confidential: exciting new Amsterdam initiatives, events and venues – including your Top 5 must-do things this issue.

P.10 UP CLOSE The city in focus: Amsterdam (street) life through a lens. The city celebrates all things photography with exhibitions, events and more.

P.17 ARTS & ENTERTAINMENT A retrospective of Amsterdam-based artist Marlene Dumas at the Stedelijk Museum, plus our critics’ picks of the best exhibitions, concerts and events.

P.31 EAT, DRINK & CHIC

P.62 CLOSING Get out of town with our excursion tips; once upon a time in Amsterdam; top tips from visitors on the way out; colophon.

Bart van Oosterhout editor-in-chief A-mag a-mag@iamsterdam.com

STAY IN TOUCH:

P.45 THE A-LIST Agendas at the ready: from clubbing to gallery hopping, The A-List is your one-stop, at-a-glance guide to the city’s very best music, theatre (language no problem!), sporting, family and gay & lesbian events and venues.

iamsterdam.com facebook.com/iamsterdam twitter.com/iamsterdam youtube.com/videoiamsterdam

WANT TO ADVERTISE? T: 020 702 6180 E: partner@iamsterdam.com

Neighbourhood watch: the Jewish Cultural Quarter; plus the hottest new shops, the tastiest food trends and our selection of the best restaurants and cafés.

A photo can show us what is normally invisible to the naked eye. Literally, as in a satellite picture of your street on Google Maps. Or on a smaller scale, in a ‘dronie’: an aerial shot of, say, your garden party, taken from one of those toy-drones that are now widely available. This month, with international photo fair Unseen and the national Fotoweek manifestation coinciding, Amsterdam teems with photography. And many of the images on display are about Amsterdam. Street photography is about bringing the ‘unseen’ to the foreground, making the essence of a situation apparent by isolating one frame from the stream of images that we see every day. In Amsterdam, street photography is for ever connected to the famous Ed van der Elsken. After a period in Paris – the birthplace of the genre – he tirelessly documented Amsterdam street life throughout the 1950s and ’60s. It was a transitional period for Amsterdam and the photographer alike. From a law-abiding bourgeois society, Amsterdam slowly turned into the ultraliberal sin city that won it an international reputation. Van der Elsken invariably turned his eye to the counterculture that made this transition happen: the rockabillies, beatniks, the hippies and the punks. By the time things got ugly in the ’80s – junkies and prostitutes taking over the old centre – Ed van der Elsken had moved on to other subjects. Some Amsterdammers complain that the counterculture is on the retreat. That money is turning their city back into ‘a cowardly, dormant village’ (see page 27) of bourgeois consensus. But modern-day street photographers such as Thomas Schlijper prove otherwise. Their work shows that Amsterdam’s population is more diverse, freer, liberal and creative than ever before.

sep & oct 2014

OPENING

What’s new? (in town)

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TWITTER USER THOMAS VAN LINGE FLAGS UP SOME HOME TRUTHS.

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All the latest cultural news plus the fresh new initiatives, events and venues making Amsterdam the place to be.

‘AT TODAY’S PRO-#PALESTINE RALLY, GAY PRIDE AND JIHAD FLAGS SIDE-BY-SIDE. ONLY IN #AMSTERDAM.’

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text Mark Smith

OUT OF PRINT

PIG ME UP The end-of-summer blues can apparently be cured by a visit to Familie Bofkont, the Amsterdam pig sanctuary where visitors are encouraged to get back to nature by petting, and even hugging, the facility’s collection of splendid swine. Bofkont’s glamorous blonde founder, Dafne Westerhof, whose piggy charges include Lady Lolita and Prins Harrie, is known as the Netherlands’ answer to Brigitte Bardot for her commitment to animal rights.

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Bovenkerkerweg 132 www.familiebofkont.nl

The former home of one of the Netherlands’ most esteemed newspapers has been given a new lease of life as a hip hotel. Situated in the up-and-coming Oost district, the Volkshotel – which derives its name from the paper that used to be written and printed here, the Volkskrant – is a 172-room behemoth leisure destination with rooms conceived by local designers.

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Wibautstraat 150 www.volkshotel.nl

GREY PRIDE A pioneering care initiative has been launched in Amsterdam to cater for the particular needs of elderly lesbian, gay, bisexual and transgender citizens of the city. Gay Care Amsterdam co-founder Ed Sinke explained to the Volkskrant newspaper: ‘The elderly of today grew up in a time when their sexuality was taboo; family ties are often broken.’ Sinke added that uncertainty regarding the religious and moral beliefs of their carers can lead to anxiety, particularly among the mentally infirm. By contrast, Gay Care’s network of carers is guaranteed LGBT friendly. www.gaycareamsterdam.nl

SITTING IT OUT Fans of the year’s biggest teen movie were left standing this summer when a piece of Amsterdam street furniture pivotal to The Fault in Our Stars went missing. The canalside bench , site of a tender kiss between cancer-suffering protagonists Hazel and Gus, was apparently stolen by a sticky-fingered super-fan, although it was quickly replaced. ‘Keep your eyes on eBay,’ quipped a city spokesman at the time.

‘I LOVE TOSCANINI.’

SEXPOT CHEF NIGELLA LAWSON TWEETS HER APPROVAL OF THE JORDAAN DISTRICT’S FOREMOST ITALIAN EATERY.

‘IT CAN BE WILD, SO PUBLIC URINALS ABOUND.’

WHEN IT COMES TO HER AMSTERDAM TRAVEL GUIDE FOR THE GUARDIAN NEWSPAPER, JENNIFER LENHART HAS HER MIND IN THE GUTTER.

POP CULTURE

ROOMS FOR IMPROVEMENT Even in the more permissive Amsterdam districts, it’s pretty much unheard of for punters to pay for the pure pleasure of being locked up. And yet that’s exactly what happens at two just-opened ‘team building’ entertainment ventures in the city. Room of Riddles near the Slotervaart district and Escape Hunt in the blustery, post-industrial Westelijke Eilanden are the Amsterdam iterations of the ‘escape room’ trend that’s sweeping the globe. Touted as a great way to spend an afternoon with colleagues or friends, these wacky warehouses challenge groups to think laterally in order to solve problems that will lead to their eventual liberation from a locked room. You could say it’s a case of thinking one’s way outside of the box. www.roomofriddles.com www.amsterdam.escapehunt.com

The mania for pop-up stores reached a heady, high-fashion watershed earlier this year when the PR people working for Chanel’s creative director Karl Lagerfeld issued pofaced invitations to an ‘ephemeral boutique’ on the slopes of Aspen, Colorado. Never a place to be outdone, Amsterdam is the first city in the world to host a whole festival devoted to such timesensitive trifles, this very autumn. Boasting everything from a one-off vegan dining event (at the Conscious Hotel Vondelpark , obviously) to a car-boot sale with ‘a relaxing mobile sauna’ (drop everything and head to Blijburg ) the week-long event promises to showcase ‘everything they can’t tell you on TripAdvisor’ about Amsterdam. A warning: blink and you’ll miss it. 18-28 September www.popup-week.com

EYES DOWN Blame the planning restrictions that seek to maintain this city centre’s low-rise loveliness: despite what you might have heard, it’s surprisingly hard to get high in Amsterdam. Still, a new coffee-table book from photographer Peter Elenbaas more than makes up for the absence of skyscrapers, with its astonishing collection of aerial views of Amsterdam, some of which date back to the 1980s. www.onbewolkt.nl

IBC2014 This September, Amsterdam hosts more than 50,000 delegates from 170 countries for IBC 2014, the essential global meeting place for the electronic media and entertainment industries. Welcome! 11-16 September Amsterdam RAI www.ibc.org

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sep & oct 2014

OPENING WHAT’S NEW?

 ‘ALL SIGNED UP TO THE AMSTERDAM MARATHON IN OCTOBER. PLAN: -RUN 26.2MILES IN UNDER 3HR30 -EAT A NAUGHTY MUFFIN -FALL IN A CANAL.’

‘AMSTERDAM DID NOT ANSWER OUR EXPECTATIONS; IT IS A KIND OF PALTRY, RUBBISHY VENICE.’

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ENGLISH LITERARY CRITIC AND ESSAYIST WILLIAM HAZLITT WAS NOT ON A PRESS TRIP, CLEARLY.

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TWITTER USER CELESTINTO LEID SHARES AN UNCONVENTIONAL TRAINING REGIMEN.

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‘The way to Amsterdam’s heart is through your stomach,’ declare Zosia and Esther, the ‘Hungry Birds’ behind Amsterdam’s new street-food tour company. The concept – like much of the food featured on the tour – is simple but brilliant: eat your way around the city, one local food producer at a time, on foot (the ‘Hungry Hikers’ tour) or by bike (the ‘Hungry Bikers’ option). Each tour includes multiple stops for snacks, and each producer or vendor will serve their unique product and reveal their story. www.hungrybirds.nl

SIEMBAMBA © DEX GOODMAN

TOP 5 to do

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STREET EATS

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NAOMI, 1995

CONCRETE

2 CELLOS

If you only do one thing in Amsterdam, make it one of our top picks of must-do events, exhibitions, museums, music and more this issue.

1 MARLENE DUMAS: THE IMAGE AS BURDEN Local art star Marlene Dumas’ insouciantly ugly pictures, based on photographs of posed nudes, awkward children and endless anonymous faces, take centre stage at the Stedelijk Museum. 6 September-4 January 2015 Stedelijk Museum www.stedelijk.nl

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2 THE FAT DOG

4 FOTOWEEK

Check out Michelin-starred chef Ron Blaauw’s latest venture, a hip hot-dog snacketeria, which takes a lowbrow break from the renowned Amsterdam chef’s usual high-end cooking.

Museums, galleries, libraries and photographers across the country celebrate photography with a plethora of exhibitions.

Ruysdaelkade 251 www.thefatdog.nl

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3 AMSTERDAM FRINGE

FESTIVAL

Bringing the best of the world’s off-beat theatre to locations across town, the edgy Amsterdam Fringe Festival has grown into a truly international affair. 4-14 September Various locations www.amsterdamfringefestival.nl

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12-21 September Various locations www.defotoweek.nl

5 CELLO BIËNNALE AMSTERDAM

From Bach at breakfast to Finnish cello-metal, this year’s Cello Biënnale Amsterdam promises a symphony of surprising sounds and sights. 16-25 October Various locations www.cellobiennale.nl

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‘#AMSTERDAM YOU ARE CRAZY!!!! AND I LOVE IT!!! #AMSTERDAMPRIDE ♥ ♥ ♥ ’

EUROVISION WINNER CONCHITA WURST SENDS HIS BEST REGARDS.

CROW FLIES AGAIN GREEN JEANS For obvious reasons, issues of water management and conservation have never been far from the mind of your average Amsterdammer. And in recent years, the city has been hailed as the jeans capital of Europe thanks to the sheer number of denim brands – both big-name and niche – that are headquartered here. Logically speaking, then, new label Mud Jeans should have the city’s denim needs sewn up. The brand is based on an innovative, water-saving rental model whereby users pay around €6 per month to rent a pair of responsibly produced Italian jeans. After a year you can decide to keep your strides (for a further fee) or else return them to Mud, who will recycle them into a new garment entirely.

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Torensteeg 5 www.nl.mudjeans.eu

EAR TO THE GROUND A competition is underway (or should that be underfoot?) to design a new carpet for Amsterdam’s famous Van Gogh Museum, whose current floor covering is apparently getting a little threadbare. That’s understandable when you consider that the institution, which houses such iconic works as ‘Starry Night’ and the ‘Sunflowers’, plays host to some 1.5 million visitors per year. The deadline for doodles is 1 October.

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Paulus Potterstraat 7 www.vangoghmuseum.com/ fridaynight

A bold reinvention of one of Amsterdam’s less lovely public transport hubs has garnered international acclaim of late. The Kraaiennest (literally, ‘crow’s nest’) metro station  in the 1970s Bijlmer-Oost district had fallen into disrepair and disrepute before architectural supremoes Maccreanor Lavington overhauled it, replacing badly lit staircases with light-flooded escalators. The new aesthetic relies heavily on laser-cut panels inspired by Arabic Mashrabiya, reflecting the multicultural character of the Bijlmer neighbourhood. www.maccreanorlavington.com

PART I UP CLOSE

framing the city

FRAMING THE CITY Amsterdam celebrates photography with Fotoweek and photo fair Unseen – and the love is mutual: photography is also celebrating Amsterdam.

XXX

STREET SNAPPERS ONLINE As well as city snapper Thomas Schlijper, who posts a picture of Amsterdam every day (www.schlijper.nl), there are plenty of other street photographers showcasing their work online. Dam Style is an Amsterdam streetstyle photoblog, following in the footsteps of sites like The Sartorialist (www.damstyle.blogspot.nl), while Amsterdam Streets is a five-member collective whose website functions as a platform for photographers who capture moments that usually go unnoticed in the hustle and bustle of city life. From 19 September to 21 December, catch their work in Café Piet de Gruyter, Van Limburg Stirumstraat 4-6  (www.amsterdamstreets). com).

Learn more about Amsterdam and its residents through the eyes of iconic Dutch street photographer Ed van der Elsken and the contemporary innovators of the genre.

text Janna Reinsma translation Heather Lane

MAKING THE INVISIBLE, VISIBLE

n a photograph titled ‘Girl with the Beehive Hair’ (shown on our cover), Ed van der Elsken portrayed a young woman in the 1950s who is clearly a fashion maverick. And yet how insecure she looks. Photos show us the unseeable and brings the faraway up close. Microbes and atoms, the Earth viewed from the air, the uncertainty in a person’s face: things that were previously too big, too small or too common to observe were brought into sharp focus with the invention of photography in 1839. This September, Amsterdam puts photography in focus with the appropriately titled Unseen photo festival, returning for its third year, and nationwide exhibitions during Fotoweek. Street photography, and consequently Ed van der Elsken, will be central. STREET SNAPPERS Besides the invisible, the unusual and the distant, photography often also shows us things that we might well have seen ourselves had we only taken the time to look. The beauty of an abandoned building, the wild energy of a funfair, the unusual within the mundane and the unique within the uniform: street photographers see the city as both backdrop and character. American founding fathers of the genre – Walker Evans, Robert Frank, Joel Meyerowitz, William Klein, Helen Levitt and Garry Winogrand – immortalised everyday America in the ’60s,

scouring Manhattan and beyond for images that caught the city’s soul, its daily drama and its citizens at work and at play. But street photography is perhaps as old as the medium itself, and early 20th-century French pioneers Eugène Atget, Brassaï, Henri CartierBresson, Robert Doisneau et al were all street photographers in their way. Street photography is arguably the medium in optima forma, because it does precisely what photography can like no other art form: capture a fleeting moment of reality ‘in a flash’. In the words of Winogrand, ‘When I’m photographing, I see life. That’s what I deal with. I don’t have pictures in my head… I don’t worry about how the picture is going to look. I let that take care of itself.’ In the best cases, one or more contradictions from the daily biotope of city life are revealed in a single image: contrasts between the individual and crowd, the private and public, movement and stillness. IMAGES OF AMSTERDAM School teacher Jacob Olie (1834-1905) was Amsterdam’s first ‘street photographer’ in the most literal sense. He would regularly set off into the city to capture its sights on film, from the filling of the canals to its latest architectural assets, including the Stedelijk Museum. The result was some 5,000 street and cityscapes on plate glass which inadvertently document the city’s modernisation. Most of Olie’s pictures are

framing the city

PART I UP CLOSE

ED VAN DER ELSKEN: AMSTERDAM, OLD PHOTOS 1947-1970 Amsterdam’s foremost street snapper published an iconic book of photographs in 1979. Available for the first time in an English-language re-issue, these are the images that captured a generation and a fleeting time. The Stadsarchief presents an exhibition of more than 100 of Van der Elsken’s most famous portraits. If you miss this exhibition, on 6 September the Annet Gelink Gallery is opening Ed van der Elsken: Images from the Archive, a comprehensive exhibition that will be on display for an unlimited period, with regularly varying work. Included in the exhibition will be a selection from Sweet Life, Amsterdam street photos, photos of his time in Paris and his world travels, plus a selection of colour photos (Annet Gelink Gallery, Laurierstraat 187-189; www.annetgelink.com ). Until14 September Amsterdam City Archives, Vijzelstraat 32 http://stadsarchief.amsterdam.nl

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The theme of the second national Fotoweek is ‘Look! My Luck’. Museums, galleries, libraries and photographers across the country celebrate photography. As well as a plethora of exhibitions, don’t miss the street photography masterclass held by Hans Eijkelboom, Reinier Gerritsen and Theo Niekus, whose De straat op! exhibition can be seen in the City Archives (13 Sep, City Archives). Alternatively, have your portrait taken by Dutch photographer Dana Lixenberg (13 Sep, Foam). If you fancy a trip out of town, catch street photographer Mark Cohen in Rotterdam (www.nederlandsfotomuseum.nl) or the exhibition De stad, de stilte en het gedruis (The city, the silence and the noise) at The Hague Museum of Photography (www.fotomuseumdenhaag.nl). 12-21 September Various locations www.defotoweek.nl

NADINE STIJNS, ELK HEAD, 2012, FROM THE PROJECT A NATION OUTSIDE A NATION ©THE ARTIST, COURTESY LHGWR, THE HAGUE

FOTOWEEK

ON THE MOVE Last autumn, Amsterdam’s museum of modern art invited artists living and/or working in the Netherlands to submit work in which they explore new, playful, critical and challenging forms of narrativity. A professional jury selected 28 submissions, which are now displayed under the subtitle ‘Storytelling in Contemporary Photography and Graphic Design’. The focus is on recent developments in photography and the title refers to the journeys taken by many of the photographers in creating their projects, as well as the new directions in photography. Until 18 Jan 2015 Stedelijk Museum, Museumplein 10 www.stedelijk.nl

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DRIE JONGETJES OP DE SNOEKJESGRACHT. AMSTERDAM, 1961 © ED VAN DER ELSKEN / NEDERLANDS FOTOMUSEUM, COURTESY ANNET GELINK GALLERY

now held by the City Archives  and can be freely viewed online (www.stadsarchief. amsterdam.nl). There’s even an iPad /tablet app, Amsterdam Gezien Door Jacob Olie (Amsterdam Seen By Jacob Olie), which maps his pictures (020apps.nl/olie). Known primarily as a painter of the Amsterdam Impressionism school, George Breitner (1857-1923) began to photograph the city around 1889. While Olie still worked with heavy equipment and wasn’t very mobile, Breitner owned a hand-held camera that enabled him to take photographs in the street relatively inconspicuously. He captured passers-by and horses in Amsterdam and Paris, flouting all contemporary rules of photography with contre-jour photos and experiments with moving images and high and low vantage points. At the beginning of the 20th century, the city was immortalised by photographer Bernard Eilers (1878-1951) in a picturesque style and with a sharp eye for the famous silvery Dutch light so beloved of Vermeer. There were many others who took street photos in Amsterdam before and after the World Wars, but the person who really wrote the history of Dutch street photography is Ed van der Elsken. ‘My subjects aren’t accidental. I do not do it for the monkey’s ass. It has to endure for several centuries,’ Van der Elsken once said of his work. He succeeded in capturing something as vast and intangible as the spirit of the times, with

photos of ordinary people and fleeting moments of everyday life in the public arena. A selection of Van der Elsken’s photos can currently be seen in the exhibition Amsterdam! in the City Archives (see opposite). You’ll find a charismatic portrait of society’s misfits – the bad-tempered, the show-offs and the rogues – often photographed in and around Van der Elsken’s own Nieuwmarkt neighbourhood . He clearly also had a weak spot for pretty girls, who are invariably surrounded by ‘many boys like kind, panting dogs’. ‘You have to understand that we, too, are merely ruled – tickled in our crotches by the Mighty Reproducer,’ he once commented. A ten-minute walk away, until 14 September, you can see some of Van der Elsken’s iconic photos on temporary hoardings on the Nieuwendijk . STREET PHOTOGRAPHY NOW In the internet age, some of the best street photography can be seen online. Thomas Schlijper is arguably the most famous contemporary Dutch city photographer, and he has been uploading a photo a day to his popular website since 2000 (http://schlijper. nl). ‘Daily photography is part of my life; it never stops,’ Schlijper admits. He is steadily building a digital chronicle of 21st-century Amsterdam, with an eye for the comical, the unusual and the everyday. For paper fans, his images have been compiled in I am

A group exhibition of work by young North American photographers – Sara VanDerBeek, Lucas Blalock, Joshua Citarella, Jessica Eaton, Daniel Gordon, Owen Kydd, Matt Lipps, Matthew Porter and Kate Steciw – who share a common approach if not a common aesthetic, with the creative process itself the inspiration or even the subject. All are explicitly engaged in a fundamental reassessment of the value and significance of photography in the early 21st century. 17 September-10 December Foam, Keizersgracht 609 https://foam.org

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‘DAMRAK PHOTOGRAPHER’ THEO NIEKUS LOOKS FOR WHAT CARTIER-BRESSON CALLED ‘THE DECIDING MOMENT’.

JESSICA EATON, CFAAL 346, 2013

UNDER CONSTRUCTION – NEW POSITIONS IN AMERICAN ART

framing the city

PART I UP CLOSE

‘When I’m photographing, I see life. That’s what I deal with.’ Garry Winogrand.

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DE STRAAT OP!

DAMRAK, NOVEMBER 2013, THEO NIEKUS

Amsterdam (2012), portraits of Amsterdammers in their city, and A Smile A Day: Dozens of Dogs on Bikes (2013), both of which are available at the American Book Center  (Spui 12; www.abc.nl). INVISIBLE Van der Elsken remains a benchmark for Amsterdam street photography says 2013 Silver Camera winner Elmer van der Marel: ‘What I admire about him, and what also inspires me, is the raw Amsterdam atmosphere. Van der Elsken loved to interact, in a playful manner, with the people he photographed and you can see that in his work.’ However, Van der Marel prefers to remain invisible as the photographer: ‘People tend to pose or indeed shy away from the camera more now.’ Unlike in Van der Elsken’s time, photographers in the street are a common sight. In the age of the iPhone and Instagram, we’re all street photographers now, paradoxically demanding our privacy while simultaneously snapping everyone and everything – from our lunch to ourselves – in public and private. Yet the genre of street photography is still very much alive among both amateurs and professionals. While street photographers remain invisible for the most part, thankfully their work does not.

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To complement and respond to Ed van der Elsken’s iconic street photographs now on display, the City Archives presents a small exhibition of works by three modernday street photographers under the title De straat op! Hip-shooting Hans Eijkelboom creates street portraits of people who follow the same trend – for example, wearing identi-kit grey hoodies – and makes subtle nuances in herd behaviour visible. Reinier Gerritsen’s work depicts people waiting, often for the ferry or tram. His works are a compilation of people who have their ‘social face’ switched off for a fleeting moment. Of the three, ‘Damrak photographer’ Theo Niekus incorporates the least amount of premeditation in his work: he is an observant, patient photographer who looks for what Cartier-Bresson called ‘the deciding moment’. Until 21 September Amsterdam City Archives, Vijzelstraat 32 http://stadsarchief.amsterdam.nl

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JONGEN IN CIRKEL , HUMANS OF AMSTERDAM

HUMANS OF AMSTERDAM Inspired by the wildly popular New York blog started in 2010, this charming website showcases online portraits of the city’s inhabitants and visitors – from the banal to the bonkers. Proving that people will tell a stranger anything, they‘re always accompanied with a short, often unexpectedly personal, funny or surprising anecdote or insight. ‘[I capture] the small things that pass people by, but that make life beautiful,’ says initiator, Debra Barraud. If you‘re wondering what the young man pictures is thinking: ‘Maybe if I stay here, I can escape reality.‘ www.humansofamsterdam.nl

This year will be the third edition of Unseen, ‘a photo fair with a festival flair’. More than 50 international and Dutch galleries will be showing and selling work by undiscovered talents and unseen work by established photographers. Highlights include The Unseen Collection: 80 works under €1,000 for novice collectors, and Japan in the Spotlight, including the Anima on Photography exhibition and the presentation of Nishino’s gigantic diorama photo of Amsterdam: a collage made up of around 8,000 analogue photos.

Intrigued by how Google Earth and Google Streetview reproduce our reality, photographer Marc Faasse built a 50-foot rod to take aerial photos on busy squares, often creating large-scale collages with weeks’ worth of photos that depict how we use our public spaces (www. marcfaasse.com).

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THE MARSEILLAISE(S) – FIFTEEN YEARS OF COLLECTING Huis Marseille invites five photographers, whom it has closely collaborated with in the past, to each curate their own gallery – filling it with their own work as well as with pieces from the museum’s extensive collection. Through their selections, photographers Valérie Belin, Jacqueline Hassink, Naoya Hatakeyama, Sarah Jones and Rob Nypels have each depicted the force of their own personal and artistic development over the last 15 years. 13 September-7 December 2015 Huis Marseille, Keizersgracht 401 www.huismarseille.nl

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HET LIEVERTJE © MARC FAASSE

AMSTERDAM FROM THE AIR

18-21 September Westergasfabriek www.unseenamsterdam.com

SARAH JONES, THE HOUSE (FRANCIS PLACE) (II), 1997, COLLECTION HUIS MARSEILLE AMSTERDAM

UNSEEN

Foto: Maaike Koning

Meet Vincent New website - New stories - New inspiration www.vangoghmuseum.com We look forward to seeing you on: Buy your tickets online: tickets.vangoghmuseum.nl

sep & oct 2014

PART II 18 22 27 28 29

ENTERTAINMENT

‘IT’S TERRIBLE AND TERRIFIC AT THE SAME TIME. TERRIFIC BECAUSE IT’S A GREAT CITY, THE CITY OF REMBRANDT. AND TERRIBLE BECAUSE AMSTERDAM HAS BECOME NARROW-MINDED AND BOURGEOIS. A COWARDLY, DORMANT VILLAGE THAT HAS LOST ITS VIBRANCY.’

Artist Aat Veldhoen doesn’t hold back on his thoughts about his hometown.

‘DUMAS’ PAINTINGS AND DRAWINGS ARE ABOUT SORROW AND MOURNING, ABOUT POLITICS AND ABOUT THE FEMALE IMAGE; YET THEY ALSO DEPICT FILM STARS AND BABIES AND CHILDREN. AND HUMOUR.’ Immerse yourself in local art star Marlene Dumas’ insouciantly ugly pictures, at the Stedelijk Museum of Modern Art.

MARLENE DUMAS: THE IMAGE AS BURDEN HIGHLIGHTS 13 QUESTIONS FILM NIGHTLIFE ESSENTIALS: AMSTERDAM DANCE EVENT GURRE-LIEDER The first ever staged version of Arnold Schönberg’s Wagner-inspired late-romantic cantata Gurre-Lieder. Based on poems by the Danish novelist Jens Peter Jacobsen about the Danish legend of the castle of Gurre, until now Gurre-Lieder has only ever been performed in the concert hall. The production is in good hands, however: long-standing director Pierre Audi has earned respect for both his vision and his audacity. 2-23 SEPTEMBER Dutch National Opera & Ballet Amstel 3 www.operaballet.nl

PART II ARTS & ENTERTAINMENT

The unbearable burden of art

marlene dumas

Local art star Marlene Dumas’ insouciantly ugly pictures, based on photographs of posed nudes, awkward children and endless anonymous faces, take centre stage at the Stedelijk Museum.

SCHAAMMEISJE

text Joke van der Wey translated by Heather Lane

S 6 SEPTEMBER4 JANUARY 2015 Stedelijk Museum Museumplein 10 www.stedelijk.nl

outh African artist Marlene Dumas moved from Cape Town to the Netherlands in the Seventies to study, following which she decided to stay – in Amsterdam. Nowadays, she’s regarded as one of the most influential painters of our time. ‘The Image as Burden’ (1993) is one of over 100 paintings and drawings that form the first major Dutch retrospective exhibition of her work in 20 years. The titular painting depicts a naked man carrying a clothed woman in his

arms, like Michelangelo’s ‘Pietà’ in reverse. The words ‘image’ and ‘burden’ have a double meaning; after all, the artist is ‘carrying’ the burden of her subject, while the onlooker is ‘burdened’ with the image. All of which sounds quite arduous. But Stedelijk curator Leontine Coelewij demurs: ‘I’d say that the exhibition is about embracing life and everything that entails. Dumas’ paintings and drawings are about sorrow and mourning, about politics and about the female image; yet

they also depict film stars and babies and children. And humour. Her work is mainly physical and evokes many emotions. You can really immerse yourself in it, thanks in part to its size.’ So while we shouldn’t worry about sinking into a deep depression after seeing her work, the subjects don’t lie: Dumas, who often takes her inspiration from photos in the newspapers and magazines she saves in her vast image archive, uses the body and politics, the personal and the public

19 

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don’t miss these

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 AMSTERDAM DRAWING

Some 50 galleries from home and abroad present gouaches, aquarelles, charcoal, pen and ink works on paper in a pavilion built especially for the occasion in Amsterdam-Noord. This medium, less expensive for collectors than works on canvas or other media, is becoming increasingly popular and giving a great start to many young contemporary artists – and many young collectors. Our top tips? Amsterdam’s Reflex gallery brings sketches by Harland Miller for his ‘fake’ Penguin paperbacks series and Galerie Jean Brolly, Paris, presents loosely rendered, doodle-like vignettes – comprising human figures, domestic objects, ships and animals – by American David Scher. 18-21 September NDSM-werf, Neveritaweg 15 www.amsterdamdrawing.nl

THE KISS, 2003

HET KWAAD IS BANAAL

 AMSTERDAM CITY SWIM

as her subjects. Those politics often reflect her origins as a white South African, Coelewij suggests: ‘Dumas has been making Black Drawings since the ’90s and her work includes a painting entitled “The White Disease”. The image was taken from a medical journal, but it’s about the political burden of skin colour, of course. When she arrived in the Netherlands, the definition of Marlene’s appearance immediately changed from being a white blonde woman to “one of us”. But she didn’t feel very Dutch; it wasn’t

that simple for her. She once said, “If asked to choose a nationality for myself, I would choose ‘Amsterdammer’. This city is where I belong.”’ Sorrow and mourning also play a key role for Dumas. ‘We’ve even devoted an entire room to it,’ says Coelewij. ‘She made many paintings on this subject when her mother died. The exhibition is not just about personal sadness, but also about the public display of emotions, as seen by film stars. I find “The Widow”, which is based on a photo of the wife of the murdered

Congolese Prime Minister Patrick Lumumba, very moving. Following her husband’s death, she – the widow – walked through the streets topless as a sign of mourning. Many aspects of Marlene Dumas’ fascinations come together here: love, sorrow, women – and, of course, Africa.’

Whilst it’s ordinarily illegal to swim in Amsterdam’s canals – not that you’d probably want to dive in, having witnessed the lines of inebriated men to be seen on weekends urinating from the banks – each September sees some 1,000 competitors complete a gruelling 2,000-metre course through the city centre’s iconic waterways. Held to raise funds for motor neurone disease, the Amsterdam City Swim is always a fun spectator sport. Former competitors include Queen Maxima. 7 September Canals in Centrum www.amsterdamcityswim.nl

 DINING WITH THE TSARS

Celebrating its fifth anniversary in 2014, the Amsterdam satellite of the stately Russian art museum presents an extraordinary exhibition of extremely rare tableware – comprising 1,034 pieces – displayed in historical settings that re-create the balls and banquets of the Tsar’s court at the Winter Palace. These lavish banquets reached a pinnacle during the late 18th century under the reign of Catherine the Great – so-called ‘Queen of Feasts’ – when dining tables were augmented with ornate centrepieces, goldrimmed crystal glassware, candelabras, vases, detailed silverwork and wall decorations. 6 September-1 March 2015 Hermitage Amsterdam, Amstel 51 www.hermitage.nl

operaballet.nl

BACK TO BACH

L’ÉTOILE

Hans van Manen Krzysztof Pastor David Dawson Ernst Meisner

Emmanuel Chabrier – 4 - 26 Oktober 2014

– 11 - 19 Oktober 2014

sep & oct 2014

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HERMITAGE AMSTERDAM DINING WITH THE TSARS 6 September-1 March 2015

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STEDELIJK MUSEUM

MARLENE DUMAS – THE IMAGE AS BURDEN 6 September-4 January 2015

Featuring over 100 works from the late 1970s to the present day, this is the most comprehensive survey of South-African-born, Amsterdam-based painter Marlene Dumas’ work to date in Europe. Widely considered one of the most significant and influential painters working today, Dumas explores the relationship between reality and its representation in the media. FREE entrance with your I amsterdam City Card

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highlights

PART II ARTS & ENTERTAINMENT

Stage left Bringing the best of the world’s off-beat theatre to locations across town, the edgy Amsterdam Fringe Festival – Edinburgh’s younger, cooler cousin – has grown into a truly international affair. text Mark Smith

arlier this year, a new Amsterdam export hit the international market, one that – on the face of it – was rather less cheerful than the tulips of popular imaginings. Described by its performanceartist inventor Sjoerd Meijer as ‘stand-up tragedy’, The Liberation of an Angry Little Man is a one-man performance that deals with the brutal thwarting of ambition and the horror of personal failure. Somewhat ironically, Meijer scooped the Best of Amsterdam Fringe Award last year and was escorted off to South Africa to grace that country’s National Arts Festival, where he earned yet more critical acclaim. ‘His style of performance couldn’t have come from anywhere else than the Netherlands,’ says Amsterdam Fringe Festival’s Bo van Bommel of the decision to take Meijer’s show on the road. ‘It’s such a stripped-down, Dutch aesthetic that people were asking, “Why haven’t the house lights gone off yet? Is this a mistake?” But inevitably, they completely loved it in the end.’ It remains to be seen whether Meijer’s contribution to this year’s edition of the Amsterdam Fringe Festival will be as bleak as Little Man. Alas, his new headline show, De ondergang van het angstdiertje (The Decline of the Animal Fear) is in Nederlands only for the time being, but elsewhere on the programme there’s plenty of quality theatre for those for whom Dutch is too much. Thanks to Amsterdam Fringe Festival’s ongoing relationship with other Fringe initiatives around the world, many of the

SPOTLIGHT ON… Marius Mensink (26) graduated from the Theatre Academy Maastricht in 2013, and the act he’s showcasing at this year’s Fringe is a version of his graduation performance. Safe to say there can’t have been too many similar spectacles awaiting his professors. For Mick Jagger is My Nightmare, Mensink enacts what he calls an exorcistic battle, as the titular Rolling Stone seeks to possess his body, live on stage. 4-11 September Club Up Korte Leidsedwarsstraat 26-1

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don’t miss these 

performances have an international flavour. Siembamba, for example, is a multilingual play from South Africa that explores the relationship between a black domestic worker and the privileged white child she brought up. At MC Theater, New York’s Old Sound Room company finds inspiration in the stories of cult author Neil Gaiman for OCTOBER IN THE CHAIR & Other Fragile Things. As Hyperpotamus, Spanish performer Jorge Ramirez-Escudero brings his ‘one-man orchestra, without the orchestra’ from the Stockholm Fringe straight to the Roode Bioscoop, a former cinema. Although performances will happen in venues great and small all over town, a conscious decision has been taken to limit the number of shows to a manageable 90, from the hundreds of applications that were submitted: ‘We didn’t want a situation where people are playing to half-empty halls,’ says Van Bommel. Seems now and then you’ve got to trim your Fringe. 4-14 SEPTEMBER VARIOUS LOCATIONS www.amsterdamfringefestival.nl

AFROVIBES Back for its 11th edition with the theme ‘New Heroes and Icons’, Afrovibes showcases performances from a new generation of artists from both Africa and Europe. Events take place at Amsterdam’s MC Theater and Bijlmer Parktheater, as well as in Utrecht, The Hague, Eindhoven and Rotterdam. Highlights of this year’s festival include Biko’s Quest, a dance performance by Cape Town-based dance company Jazzart, Mike van Graan’s theatre production Rainbow Scars and Uncles and Angels, an intriguing interactive dance and video performance exploring issues such as chastity and tradition.

8-12 OCTOBER VARIOUS LOCATIONS www.afrovibes.nl

PAM ANN: PLANE FILTHY Sharp-tongued air hostess with the mostess Pam Ann flies into town with plenty of tales from life in the mile high club. Expect camp, bitchy, bawdy comedy from the trolley dolly alter ego of Australian comedian Caroline Reid – with audience participation enforced. Dubbed ‘a delicious comic creation’ by the UK’s Independent and favourably compared to compatriot Dame Edna by ELLE magazine, Pam Ann’s not afraid to mine the dark side of fabulous, so the easily offended should skip this one. Buckle up: it’s going to be a bumpy ride.

TOLHUISTUIN OPENING Given that since last May the Tolhuistuin – the cultural breeding ground and incubator located in the former Shell building in Amsterdam-Noord – has been host to literary evenings, the London Calling music festival, an exhibition of young artists from the Middle East and an invariably crowded restaurant, you’d be forgiven for thinking it was already well and truly open. In fact, all that was merely a ‘soft’ launch and this week sees the official opening. Find film screenings at campfires in the garden, music programming by Paradiso, portraits of freedom fighters in Kiev by artist Emeric Lhuisset and plenty more to tempt you north of the river.

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14 OCTOBER, DELAMAR THEATER Marnixstraat 402 http://pamann.com

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15-22 SEPTEMBER, TOLHUISTUIN Buiksloterweg 5C www.tolhuistuin.nl

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PART II ARTS & ENTERTAINMENT

highlights

Frankly, Anne

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A new play about Anne Frank makes use of her unedited diaries to reveal a complex, threedimensional character to a new generation.

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text Megan Roberts photo Kurt van der Elst

he diary of Anne Frank, the most famous and widely read chronicle of life under Nazi occupation during World War II, has been brought to stage and screen in numerous incarnations in the 70 years since the author died in a German concentration camp. With the diary’s copyright expiration looming, this newest multimedia production – with subtitles in seven languages and instantaneous translation in English or German – is an attempt to breathe new life into her story and to create a ‘definitive’ interpretation. ANNE opens, counterfactually, in a brasserie in post-war Paris, where Anne meets a handsome stranger to whom she gradually tells her life story, acting as omniscient narrator. Anne begins her story on Friday, 12 June 1942, her 13th birthday. Among other gifts, she receives the diary she calls Kitty, and from now on, 50-metre high screens are superimposed with the elegant script of Anne’s own hand, matching almost exactly the dialogue heard on stage. When, following ever-increasing restrictions placed upon Jews, the family goes into hiding, the set becomes an

imposing re-creation of the secret annex where Frank, her family and four others hid for 18 months, built almost to scale. As the soap opera of the inhabitants’ lives unfolds, we see comic squabbles over desk time and toilet use, the heartbreaking loss of a treasured fur coat that represents so much more than the sum of its parts. Actress Rosa da Silva’s Anne is complex – often impetuous, sometimes spoiled, occasionally irritating but always three-dimensional. Dutch husband-and-wife writing team Leon de Winter and Jessica Durlacher were given permission to quote directly from the original diaries (not the version redacted by Anne’s father, Otto). Consequently, we see Anne embrace her burgeoning sexuality, vent her frustrations with her mother – even experience her first period with her. With some 80 per cent of the text coming from original sources, the translation system, voiced by the actors themselves, is especially successful and precisely synched. Perhaps inevitably given the scale of the production, the strongest, most forceful characters come across most powerfully.

Anne and Mrs Van Pels transcend the translation system, but others fare less well. As for Miep Gies and the four other gentiles who helped the Franks in hiding and saved Anne’s diaries, their story is sadly absent. ANNE is only the second production to have been given permission to quote directly from the original diaries. The first, The Diary of Anne Frank, premiered on Broadway in 1955 and took Disneyesque liberties with history, closing with Anne declaring ‘people are really good at heart’. The writers of ANNE have taken no such easy course – although they, too, avoid staging the historical events. Instead, Otto Frank delivers a heart-wrenching monologue on the family’s fate before we follow Anne briefly and almost allegorically beyond the boundaries of the diary to Bergen-Belsen. The play closes with Anne speaking about her plans for after the war. But she never finishes the sentence: ‘I wanted... I so hoped... I thought that I might…” ANNE, THEATER AMSTERDAM Danzigerkade 5 www.theateramsterdam.nl

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featured artist

don’t miss these GIGS FESTIVAL DELUXE Pining for festival season? Head to Melkweg for GIGSDeLuxe, effectively an outdoor festival only inside – and, consequently, dry and mercifully tent-free. It was conceived by former Heideroosjes bassist Fred Houben, who discovered to his horror that, as the father of two young children, he no longer enjoyed festivals. Think of it as the festival for the 30-pluser. On the bill are singer-songwriter Tim Knol, siblings Tangerine (pictured), DJs Kraak & Smaak and Small Time Crooks plus Bluegrass Boogiemen, bringing a little much-welcomed hillbilly to Amsterdam.

‘I had to leave my comfort zone as an actress and start dancing’

26 SEPTEMBER Melkweg, Lijnbaansgracht 234A www.gigsfestival.nl

SPIEGELKWARTIER OPEN! Amsterdam’s quainter-thanquaint arts and antiques mico’hood celebrates the new cultural season with a programme of exhibitions, lectures and more. Conveniently located a hop, skip and jump from the Rijksmuseum, this bijoux borough boasts some 70 specialist dealers in a setting of historic houses. A mark of the area’s reputation for quality, for the past hundred years the Spiegelkwartier has even supplied the Rijksmuseum itself – from the embroidered panels the museum bought exactly a century ago, to 18th-century Dutch glass purchased in the past few months.

MONIC HENDRICKX, ACTRESS Born: 3 December 1966 (age 47) Talent: the acclaimed Dutch film and TV

actress debuts as a dancer and stage actor in Homebody, a mixture of theatre, dance and music, based on the eponymous play by Tony Kushner, American playwright (Angels in America) and screenwriter (Munich, Lincoln). Performs: 18 and 19 September in the , with English surtitles. Stadsschouwburg

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VALTIFEST

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‘Homebody is about a woman in a midlife crisis on antidepressants. Her family has become like a small company, she hardly has any contact with her husband any more. She escapes by reading a travel guide about Kabul and in the end she flees to Afghanistan, although it’s not clear whether this happens in a dream or in reality. The text is very beautiful, very visual. She longs for a life that speaks to her emotions. She’s a dreamer, but she’s afraid to leave her safe environment. In that respect she’s like me, I had to leave my comfort zone as an actress and start dancing. Those spitzen (pointe shoes) that dancers wear, I don’t get how someone came up with that! They’re so unhealthy.’

27 & 28 SEPTEMBER Spiegelkwartier www.spiegelkwartier.nl

Equal parts dance festival and fancy-dress party, Valtifest is the unabashed wild child of Amsterdam’s summer festival programme. This year’s theme is ‘The Seven Deadly Sins’, so take the theme and run wild. The dress code is strictly enforced, and this is no place for shrinking violets. A heavyweight line-up of DJs – including Joost van Bellen, Jackmaster, Tom Trago, Space Dimension and Jody Berna – run the gamut of genres from punk to electro. With a carnival atmosphere and an extravagant sideshow rounding things out, this endof-summer fest is a feast for the eyes as much as the ears.

6 SEPTEMBER NDSM terrein www.valtifest.nl

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highlights

PART II ARTS & ENTERTAINMENT

Out of Africa

Amsterdam’s Tribal Art Fair turns 19th-century church De Duif into a cabinet of curiosities.

From Bach to cello-metal, this year’s Cello Biënnale Amsterdam is a symphony of surprises. text Mark Smith

earch the internet for ‘cello jokes’ and you’ll find a barrage of witty self-deprecation. An example? What’s the difference between a cello and a coffin? The coffin has the dead person on the inside. Before you unleash such quips at the Cello Biënnale Amsterdam, please note that they are strictly for cellists, by cellists. One of the rules of the orchestra seems to be that, as with mothers, it’s okay to make fun of your own instrument, but never someone else’s. When it comes to challenging whatever preconceptions may exist about the four-foot long violoncello, no one’s quite as keen as Maarten Mosterd. Having trained at the Conservatory of Amsterdam and co-founded the world class Sinfonietta chamber orchestra, he now spends much of his time curating the dizzyingly diverse programme of a festival which, this year, incorporates Indian raga music for sitar and cello, a YouTube sensation duo by the name of 2CELLOS (check out their insanely handsome version of Rihanna’s ‘We Found Love’) plus Anna Bijlsma, grande dame of Dutch cello music, who turns 80 this year. Brilliantly, the whole

string-celebrating sensation kicks off with a performance by Finnish cello-metal band Apocalyptica in the Muziekgebouw aan ’t IJ. You couldn’t make it up. In accordance with the overarching theme for this year’s fifth edition of the festival – ‘Cello & Voice’ – the Cappella Amsterdam choir is the ensemble-in-residence at the festival, popping up all over the ten-day programme to collaborate with the likes of the Orchestra of the 18th Century and the African singers of Groove Lélé. ‘The cello is actually the musical instrument that most resembles the human voice, in terms of range and tone,’ explains Mosterd. ‘It also has something of a melancholic quality. If you listen to movie soundtracks, it’s often the cello that’s used to convey really deep emotions like deep love or the pain of war.’ It seems Mosterd and team could be heading for a perfect fifth edition. (That’s a cello pun, by the way. Blame the internet.) CELLO BIËNNALE AMSTERDAM 16-25 October Various locations www.cellobiennale.nl

xotic and extraordinary, so-called ‘primitive’ and tribal art is enjoying a moment. Paris’s Parcours des Mondes fair welcomed some 100,000 visitors last year, and auction house Sotheby’s broke auction records in June 2014, commanding €4.34 million for a carved wooden Fang Mabea, one of the most iconic sculptures in African art. Amsterdam’s own Tribal Art Fair, which returns this October, may be a smaller affair than the Parcours des Mondes but on the up side, the prices will also be considerably lower than Sotheby’s. Twenty-odd international dealers bring art and artefacts from Oceania, Africa, Indonesia, South America, Tibet and the Philippines, uniting an array of difference under one roof and offering a window on to the history and craftsmanship of diverse tribal cultures. It was more than 2,000 years ago that the Romans first ‘sourced’ exotic artefacts from sub-Saharan Africa, while more recently, during the Renaissance Spanish explorers brought idols back from early forays into what is now Northern Angola. But it was in the colonialist mid-1800s that such cultural curiosities were brought to the West en masse. The prevailing Eurocentric view of art meant they were

treated as little more than the trinkets of ‘primitive’ cultures. And then came the cubists. Picasso, Braque et al took what they saw as abstractions in certain African art and appropriated them. At the same time, the vogue for modernist interiors – the perfect backdrop for dramatic, extravagant art – saw a new type of collector. But there’s a big difference between genuine tribal art – originally produced for a specific tribal purpose, whether spiritual, ceremonial or everyday, and often preWestern contact – and what the trade refers to pejoratively as ‘airport art’: that is, tourist souvenirs mass-produced and widely available. Luckily, at Amsterdam’s Tribal Art Fair, each item – from the smallest silver necklace to the largest ceremonial mask – has been examined by experts and is guaranteed genuine. And because context is everything, those experts will conduct guided tours and specialist lectures. Famed Parisian gallerist Jean-Baptiste Bacquart once described tribal art as ‘these dignified ambassadors from other places and times’. Head to De Duif to give them a proper welcome. 23-26 OCTOBER De Duif, Prinsengracht 756 www.tribal-art-fair.nl

 BRANT MACKLEY GALLERY, HERSEY/ SANTA FE, USA

Sultans of string

APOCALYPTICA

text Megan Roberts

13 questions The Rijksmuseum exhibits 40 prints by visual artist Aat Veldhoen (Amsterdam, 1934). With his explicitly sexual work, Veldhoen personifes the spirit of the ’60s.

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text Anne-Rose Bantzinger

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‘A cowardly, dormant village.’ 1. WHAT’S GOOD ABOUT LIVING IN AMSTERDAM? ‘It’s terrible and terrific at the same time. Terrific because it’s a great city, the city of Rembrandt. And terrible because Amsterdam has become narrow-minded and bourgeois. A cowardly, dormant village that has lost its vibrancy.’ 2. WHAT SHOULD SOMEONE DO WITH A SINGLE DAY? ‘Go to the Rijksmuseum (www. rijksmuseum.nl) . I was educated as an artist in the Drawing School that used to be part of the Rijksmuseum. Back then it was called the State School for Drawing Education and it was the predecessor of the present Rietveld Academy. Over the door was a sign saying: Drawing is speaking and writing at the same time. It’s an honour that my prints are now on display in this museum.’ 3. FAVOURITE STATUE? ‘Rembrandt on Rembrandtplein . Amsterdam owes everything to that man. I personally endeavoured to have the statue clad in gold. Rembrandt would

have been gleaming in the sun if we had done that. But no, it remained the colour of dull cast iron. With those ugly puppets that are supposed to depict his painting “The Nightwatch” just across from it.’ 4. WHAT’S THE BEST THING ABOUT AMSTERDAMMERS? ‘We’re optimistic. Which is also true about myself.’ 5. AND THE WORST? ‘That we permitted our Jewish citizens and even their children to be deported via Central Station in the war. From there they went straight to the concentration camps.’ 6. FAVOURITE FOOD SHOP? ‘Our neighbour on the Witteburgergracht: Frank’s Smoke House (www. smokehouse.nl) . It’s the best place for smoked salmon and other fish and meat. And we support our local butcher, Bosse, in his fight against the supermarkets. It’s because of Peter Bosse that we didn’t become vegetarians.’

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 7. TOP RESTAURANT? ‘We divide our patronage between two of our neighbours: Thai eating house Siam (https:// thaiseetcafe.nl)  and Turkish restaurant Il Forno (www.ilforno. nl) , where they also serve pizzas. Weather permitting, we sit outside. They’re great spots for people watching.’ 8. FAVOURITE CAFÉ? ‘Cafe De Werf (https://www. facebook.com/EetcafeDeWerf/ info) , also on the Wittenburgergracht, is a gezellig neighbourhood cafe.’ 9. THEATRE? ‘I’ve been going to the Stadsschouwburg (http://stadsschouw burgamsterdam.nl)  for ever. Hedy [Hedy D’Ancona, famed feminist, former cabinet minister and his partner of 17 years] always attends premieres of Toneelgroep Amsterdam. We greatly admire its director, Ivo van Hove.’ 10. MUSIC VENUE? ‘The Concertgebouw (http:// concertgebouw.nl) . I like stage

 seats [the Concertgebouw has a limited number of seats on the stage]. That way I can see the conductor’s face.’ 11. CINEMA? ‘In Tuschinski (www.pathe.nl/ bioscoop/tuschinski)  I watched Disney’s Snow White just before the war. After the war I saw all the classics in Kriterion (www.kriterion.nl) . 12. FAVOURITE AMSTERDAM BOOK? ‘The saddest book is Amsterdam tijdens de hongerwinter (Amsterdam During the Hunger Winter) from 1945 with photos by Emmy Andriesse, Ad Windig, Cas Oorthuys and others.’ 13. GREATEST ANNOYANCE? ‘That Amsterdammers accept the Royal Family so devoutly. I am a fierce anti-royalist. The Palace on Dam square should have remained the city hall, which it was intended to be.’ Veldhoen’s prints are on display in the Rijksmuseum until 8 December. www.rijksmuseum.nl

PART II ARTS & ENTERTAINMENT

film

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Taking you through Amsterdam’s movie scene, one cinema at a time.

De Filmhallen

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The newest (and biggest) independent cinema in Amsterdam.

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text Bregtje Schudel photo Zlatka Siljdedic

DE FILMHALLEN Hannie Dankbaar Passage 33 www.filmhallen.nl

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t won’t officially open until October, but unofficially movie lovers can attend screenings in Amsterdam’s newest cinema, De Filmhallen, starting 4 September. With nine screens and 800 chairs, it will be the largest independent cinema in the Netherlands. Built in one of the halls of a former tram depot in Amsterdam Oud-West, De Filmhallen will be the big little sister of The Movies, which, together with De Uitkijk, is one of the oldest cinemas in Amsterdam. The programming will be similar to that of The Movies, only on a larger scale (The Movies has a trifling four screens) – think: the better Hollywood film fare as well as quality

European and world cinema. De Filmhallen will also feature a broad children’s programme and play host to international and local festivals starting with a collaboration with Film by the Sea this September (other partners are yet to be announced). The movies being shown are still to be determined, but the theme will be French. One partnership deserves special mention: not only will screen 7 be outfitted with the art-deco interior of the famous Parisien auditorium of the old Filmmuseum (now EYE) in the Vondelpark, the screening room will also serve as an auxiliary branch for EYE itself, with its own independent programming.

There’s even more good news: De Filmhallen are planning to screen as many films as possible with Dutch as well as English subtitles – so keep an eye on the website. Sadly, unlike The Movies the new cinema won’t come with a restaurant, although there will be a buffet for snacks and drinks. But with the Foodhallen next door, you certainly won’t go hungry. In a city already rich with great cinemas, De Filmhallen will surely prove to be a great addition.

highlight

ADE essentials

Our must-see film pick this issue…

Amsterdam Dance Event, the world’s biggest club festival, is upon us. Christiaan de Wit tells you what you shouldn’t miss. TAPE

PATRICK VAN BEEK – SLEAZE RECORDS

Thur 16 Oct, Tolhuistuin

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HENRI BLOMMERS – PIONEER 2

A highlight of ADE’s Next programme – where the spotlight is on successful young talent – is this Q&A with one of 2014’s most incredible breakthrough acts, Martin Garrix. With 300 million views on YouTube and a number one hit with ‘Animals’ in the UK, the 18-year-old Dutch producer will tell you just how surprised he was that his instrumental track turned out to be such a chart topper. Sat 18 Oct, Felix Meritis

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DOCKYARD

Some may call him a sell-out or worse; others – including many fellow producers – respect Nick van der Wall for his evolution from frontrunner of Dutch house to the international DJ with the most impressive list of cross-over collabs with mainstream pop music. Over the course of just a few years, Afrojack has worked with Chris Brown, Snoop Dogg, Beyoncé, Ne-Yo and more. No doubt Van der Wall will tear down the walls of this venue in Amsterdam’s south-east with plenty of climaxes, breaks and even singalong moments.

Just about everything is original about this festival – original as in ‘classic’, that is. There are the 1990s techno heroes on the bill including Joey ‘Energy Flash’ Beltram, DJ Rush, The Advent and Gayle San. Location wise, you couldn’t find a more apt setting for these violently pumping beats: this is how it all started here during the early Nineties. Even the cover charge for tonight is quite classic, we’d say. If there are strobe lights, all the elements of an original warehouse night are there.

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WARP X LUCKY ME SHOWCASE

A Most Wanted Man is in cinemas from 4 September.

ADE NEXT: Q&A WITH MARTIN GARRIX

AFROJACK

Fri 17 Oct, Heineken Music Hall

MIKE BREEUWER

hilip Seymour Hoffman’s sad farewell comes in Dutch director Anton Corbijn’s espionage thriller. Intelligence operative Günther Bachmann and his antiterrorist team are always on the clock. Bachmann has reason: it was in his town, Hamburg, that the 9/11 bombers lived and plotted their attack. Bachmann won’t let it happen again! When Issa (Grigoriy Dobrygin), a half-Chechen, half-Russian immigrantturned-Muslim, turns up in Hamburg to lay claim to his father’s ill-gotten gains, Bachmann and his team go on high alert. A Most Wanted Man gives new meaning to the term ‘slow burner’. Small wonder: the film is based on a book by John le Carré (The Constant Gardener, Tinker Tailor Soldier Spy), the godfather of the espionage novel. His heroes are no James Bonds who blindly jump into the action. They think, and plan, and plot, and then they think some more. Unlike The Constant Gardener and TTSS, however, there’s no mystery to be solved here. It’s all about the procedure. The subdued climax may not be to everyone’s liking, but it fits. It’s hard – nigh on impossible – not to look for clues of§ Philip Seymour Hoffman’s tragic and untimely demise in his portrayal of Günther Bachmann, his last leading role. The character may be too comfortable a fit. With the husky voice of a German Brendan Gleeson, his chain-smoking, whisky-chugging Bachmann looks burned out, worn thin, while still doggedly trying to do the right thing. ‘It’s […] about a man who keeps doing the same thing and getting the same result. You get the feeling he can’t stop,’ said Hoffman of Bachmann. He might just as well have been talking about himself.

TOM DOMS – LOCO DICE

A Most Wanted Man

TAPE stays true to the original environment of 4/4 dance music: dimly lit clubs. Their ADE line-up is catnip for fans of abstract Detroit house and techno. Funkinevil is the stage name of Kyle Hall – one of the Motor City’s youngest kids on the block – and London’s Funkineven. Together they excel at both dark and happy club music. Hailing from the same city as Mr Hall, Marcellus Pittman joined the 3 Chairs collective in 2002. Expect something deep tonight.

It’s been 25 years – 25! – since Warp’s first ground-breaking records by Nightmares on Wax, Tricky Disco and LFO, and the label is still at the forefront of the electronic music scene. Tonight, they’re teaming up with another important player, Glaswegian imprint Lucky Me. Included in the ultra-hip line-up are futuristic producer Rustie, London’s poppy electronic duo Mount Kimbie, trap/ footwork maestro Lunice, BBC1’s top jock Benji B and Holland’s talented young beat producer Jameszoo. Get ready for some glitch! Fri 17 Oct, Paradiso

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Sat 18 October, NDSM

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DGTL PRESENTS: KOMPAKT From the blueprint minimal techno label in the early Noughties, Cologne’s Kompakt Records has evolved into an all-round electronic label releasing everything on the experimental and the poppy spectrums of electronic music. Unlike many other labels, Kompakt has also turned itself into a brand, with record sleeves that look like candy. The premier league of the label will be present tonight: co-founder Michael Mayer, Brazilian wonder child Gui Boratto, Kölsch, Superpitcher, Troels Abrahamsen, Rebolledo and Blond:ish.

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Sat 18 Oct, Scheepsbouwloods www.amsterdam-dance-event.nl

When you look from really close, a new world is revealed to you. More beautiful and spectacular than you could ever have imagined. welcome to Micropia

Micropia Artisplein, Plantage Kerklaan 36-38 Amsterdam www.micropia.nl

unique in the world opening: October 1st Sun-Wed 9 am till 6 pm Thu-Sat 9 am till 8 pm

sep & oct 2014

PART III

EAT DRINK CHIC

‘ISRAELI PEOPLE LOVE TO COME TO AMSTERDAM, JUST LIKE MYSELF. IN AMSTERDAM THERE’S SUCH AN OPEN CULTURE, IT’S A CITY FULL OF DIVERSITY. I FELT WELCOME FROM THE FIRST MINUTE. Amsterdam transplant Haim Outmezguine on his ‘hood.

WUSH: WURST & SCHNITZELHAUS Meat lovers will want to check out this new German joint near the Leidsestraat, which serves juicy sausages, sauerkraut and hearty schnitzels, plus several beers – all imported from Germany, including the gemütlichkeit. Prinsengracht 474 www.wush.nl

37 38 40 42 44

NEIGHBOURHOOD WATCH: JEWISH CULTURAL QUARTER COLUMN EATING OUT ON THE MENU PRETTY THINGS WHAT’S IN STORE

STRAWBERRY EARTH FAIR Presenting the latest in sustainable fashion and design, and celebrating innovation within those industries, Strawberry Earth Fair brings the best sustainable products and services together. Opportunities for shopping abound, but there’s also a more serious intention, with debates and exhibitions exploring the sustainable future of fashion and design. Live music and organic food round out the experience. 11 & 12 October Tolhuistuin, Amsterdam-Noord www.strawberryearth.com/fair

PART III EAT, DRINK & CHIC

Neighbourhood watch

neighbourhood watch

JEWISH CULTURAL QUARTER WATERLOOPLEIN MARKET What was once the heart of the Jewish quarter is today a bustling flea market with more than 300 stalls selling everything from bicycle locks to vintage clothing. Created in the late 19th century, Waterlooplein became the Jewish market after city officials moved merchants from nearby Jodenbreestraat and Sint Antoniebreestraat into the square. While you’ll be hardpressed to notice any Jewish presence today, you can still find menorahs and other Jewish memorabilia among the market’s ample bric-a-brac stalls.

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Waterlooplein 2 www.waterloopleinmarkt.nl

No longer a bustling Jewish metropolis, Jewish history still flourishes in this compact quarter where you’ll discover the sublime and the heart-breaking side-by-side. text Lauren Comiteau photos Elisah Jacobs

Where history lives.

ranted, Amsterdam’s old Jewish quarter would have been much easier to find during World War Two, when the German occupiers hoisted up bridges over its bordering canals and sealed off the streets with barbed wire. Thankfully, those days are over, and what remains of the city’s Jewish quarter, or Jodenbuurt, if no longer a lively Jewish neighbourhood, is a testament to what was once one of Europe’s vibrant and prosperous Jewish communities. In less than a square kilometre, bordered by the Amstel River to the southwest, the Zwanenburgwal and Oudeschans in the northwest and the Plantage area in the east, there are some 40 monuments bearing witness to a former era – or eras: the 18thcentury Study House of the Tree of Life (Rapenburgerstraat 109 ); the early 17th-century Pinto House (Sint Antoniesbreestraat 69 ); and Belgian sculptor Josef Glatt’s 1988 Monument to the Jewish Resistance by Amsterdam’s city hall . But: ‘It’s not the Jewish quarter any more,’ says Marcella Levie, who teaches Hebrew to a new generation of Jewish children at the Uilenburger Synagoge (Nieuwe Uilenburgerstraat 91, www. beithachidush.nl ). ‘It stopped being the Jewish quarter after the Holocaust. Most people were killed,

and the others never moved back. But the buildings and monuments remind us of a former life.’ Those edifices include the Portuguese Synagogue , the Jewish Historical Museum (JHM) and Children’s Museum  across the Weesperstraat and the Hollandsche Schouwburg theatre  further east, which together with the nearby Waterlooplein market  and Jodenbreestraat (Jewish Broad Street), constitute the heart of what today has been rechristened the Jewish Cultural Quarter. THE TOLERANT CITY The first Jews arrived in Amsterdam 400 years ago, Sephardim from Spain and Portugal who were victims of the Inquisition and found a welcome home in tolerant Amsterdam. Fleeing pogroms and persecution, central and eastern Europe’s Ashkenazi Jews soon followed, and by 1672, there were some 2,500 Jewish residents settled on Vlooienburg island to the east of the city centre (including Dutch philosopher and Portuguese Jew Baruch Spinoza). They rechristened Amsterdam ‘Mokum’ – ‘place’ in Yiddish, with connotations of ‘sanctuary’ – and soon became an influential demographic in city life. Those Jews excelled in the businesses open to them, namely trade and

neighbourhood watch

PART III EAT, DRINK & CHIC

Jews fleeing persecution rechristened Amsterdam ‘Mokum’ – ‘place’ in Yiddish, with connotations of ‘sanctuary’. SAL-MEIJER This Kosher sandwich shop has been pickling its own corn beef (pekelvlees) since 1957. Originally located on the Jodenbreestraat, Sal Meijer’s eventually moved to its current home in Amsterdam-Zuid, where you can still stuff yourself silly on affordable homemade salads, liverwurst broodjes and soups in this storefront deli that will take you back in time. Closed on Jewish holidays and Shabbat.

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Scheldestraat 45 www.sal-meijer.com

JEWISH HISTORICAL MUSEUM Made up of four former Ashkenazi synagogues, the Jewish Historical Museum houses a vast permanent collection of Jewish art and artefacts in addition to special exhibitions. The separate Children’s Museum is outstanding no matter your religion: a whole townhouse devoted to Jewish life where kids can bake challah (bread), play instruments in the music room or get creative in the atelier. Nieuwe Amstelstraat 1 www.jhm.nl

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financing. In the 19th century, unable to work in the trade guilds, Jews went into the non-guild controlled diamond business. At Nieuwe Uilenburgerstraat 175, in what is now the Gassan Diamond factory (www.gassan.com ), you can tour what was once Amsterdam’s largest diamond factory and today is one of the city’s top attractions and shopping destinations. A trip to the Hollandsche Schouwburg  and the former concert venue Plancius (now the Resistance Museum and a restaurant; Plantage Kerklaan 61, www.brasserieplancius.nl)  is testament to the importance of Jewish influence in the city’s theatre and arts worlds. The two largest Dutch department stores – de Bijenkorf and HEMA – were founded by Jews, while Amsterdam has had five Jewish mayors in the past 50 years. THE ’HOOD It wasn’t only Jews who called the Jodenbuurt home: Dutch painter Rembrandt van Rijn moved into the house at Jodenbreestraat 4 in 1639, which today is a restored townhouse where you can view an unparalleled collection of his etchings (www.rembrandthuis.nl) . A drink at 1 Jodenbreestraat across the road in the quaintly lilting Café de Sluyswacht (www.sluyswacht.nl)  makes for a memorable sunset stop along the still popular high street. But there are also more modern options, such as the much-lauded and appropriately named HPS, or Hiding in Plain Sight (Rapenburg 18, www.hpsamsterdam.com) , a speakeasy-style bar whose boutique cocktails have become the darlings of the city’s discerning drinking scene. Admittedly, Jodenbreestraat is not what it used to be. Out of a pre-war population of 80,000 Amsterdam Jews (some 10 per cent of the city’s residents), only 5,000 returned to the city after the war. With the Jewish quarter decimated, its

HOLLANDSCHE SCHOUWBURG

GILI PAPIER (29) PR manager, Maison PR

‘I love LEKKRR – which means “tastes good“ in Dutch – across the Waterlooplein market. I often order the ginger butter cake, a typical Jewish delicacy. It reminds me of my grandparents, who often served it at their home. I also love visiting the Portuguese Synagogue during Museum Night. It’s such a beautiful place to visit at night.‘

HAIM OUTMEZGUINE (59)

General manager, Park Plaza Victoria Hotel

‘Israeli people love to come to Amsterdam, just like myself. In Amsterdam there’s such an open culture, it’s a city full of diversity. I felt welcome from the first minute. I visited the Anne Frank House 30 years ago but never visited it again. On the weekends I do love to visit the city‘s green parks.‘

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          

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  PATHÉ TUSCHINSKI

This stately building was a thriving Dutch theatre until 1941, when Nazi occupiers allowed only Jews to perform and attend its productions. Things went rapidly downhill from there, with the Schouwburg becoming the last stop for the city’s Jews who were then deported to transit camps and from there to Europe’s death camps. Today the former theatre is both monument and war memorial.

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Plantage Middenlaan 24 www.hollandscheschouwburg.nl

While not in the Jewish quarter proper, this ode to art deco is one of the world’s most spectacular cinemas. Commissioned by Polish Jew Abraham Icek Tuschinksi, it first opened its doors in 1921 as the largest Dutch movie house. Now owned by global film giant Pathé, the Tuschinksi is today a favoured venue for Dutch cinematic premieres. Its namesake was murdered in Auschwitz in 1942.

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Reguliersbreestraat 26-34 www.pathe.nl/bioscoop/tuschinski

PART III EAT, DRINK & CHIC

‘It stopped being the Jewish quarter after the Holocaust… ’ Marcella Levie of the Uilenburger Synagogue.

PORTUGUESE SYNAGOGUE While ancient churches abound throughout Europe, the Portuguese Synagogue is undoubtedly one of the few and most impressive of the old synagogues still standing that survived World War II intact. How it did is the stuff of enduring legend, one being that the Germans planned on creating a museum to perished people there. Thankfully, this cavernous and candelabra-filled synagogue dating back to 1675, which includes the world’s oldest Jewish library, is today a working temple serving Amsterdam’s orthodox Sephardic community. Almost 350 years after completion, it is still a wonder to behold. Open to the public, check the website for service times.

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Mr Visserplein 3 www.portugesesynagoge.nl

GARY’S DELI What began as a postage-stamp sized basement café on the Prinsengracht in the 1990s is today a split-level deli in the Oud-West outpost of Kinkerstraat. Still owned by the original Gary Feingold, the bakery that supplies his bagels is now owned by his old bakers, who remain faithful to Gary’s original recipes. His secret? ‘Boiling the bagels,’ says Feingold, who imported both the equipment and the know-how from the States to achieve that authentic NYC flavour.

neighbourhood watch

tenantless buildings pillaged for wood during 1945’s Hunger Winter, most of what was once the Jewish ghetto was demolished by the city in the following two decades, making way for today’s uninspired flats, heavily trafficked roads and the modern Stadhuis (City Hall) and Dutch National Opera & Ballet. EXODUS Even before the war, there was something of a suburban exodus, as many Jewish families who could afford to left the squalid Jewish quarter for the southern and eastern reaches of the city. Before going into hiding in her father’s business on the Prinsengracht, Anne Frank and her family lived on the Merwedeplein  in Amsterdam Zuid for nearly a decade. Today there’s a statue in the quiet, suburban square commemorating the young Frank, while on nearby Waalstraat at number 17, one of the city’s few remaining Kosher butchers, Marcus Slagerij, still serves up Kosher meats and other Jewish delicacies (www. slagerijmarcus.nl ). There are now some 55,000 Jews in the Netherlands, most of whom call Amsterdam home. But for a vibrant Jewish presence, you’ll have to head to the suburbs of Amstelveen and Buitenveldert, which, although lacking the architectural and historical grandeur of the old Jewish quarter, nevertheless have all the kosher amenities you’d expect for a vibrant Orthodox community. Back in the Jewish Cultural Quarter, Moncef Beekhof, head of marketing for the organisation that promotes the neighbourhood’s four main institutions, is trying to push the historical and cultural aspects of the city’s Jewish heritage. ‘I don’t want to recreate the “ghetto”,’ he says. ‘The war is so dominant, but we want to look forward.’

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Kinkerstraat 140 www.garysdeli.nl

ANNE FRANK HOUSE Undoubtedly Amsterdam’s most popular tourist destination centred around Jewish life (and, unfortunately, death), the Anne Frank House humanises the story of the Holocaust through the young diarist’s writings and wartime hiding place. You will be able to follow the lines through the bookcase and into the secret annex (achterhuis) that shielded her family and their friends from the Nazis until they were betrayed and deported to their deaths in 1944. There’s also an interactive room that brings issues of racism, xenophobia and homophobia into the modern age. Buy your tickets online to avoid the inevitable queues. For an alternative approach, see Theater Amsterdam’s new interactive production ANNE, which features a life-sized re-creation of the secret annexe and also the family home on the Merwedeplein (www.theateramsterdam.nl). See page 24. Prinsengracht 263-267 www.annefrank.org

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PART III

EAT, DRINK & CHIC

When in Amsterdam…

After 16 years here, native New Yorker Lauren Comiteau is still working out how to ‘go Dutch’.

COFFEE CONFIDENTIAL

Lauren Comiteau is a journalist and writer who has been covering the Netherlands for TIME magazine, CBS Radio and others since 1996. She lives in Amsterdam with her two daughters.

here was no such thing as coffee to go when I moved here in 1996. Coming from ground zero of ‘to go’ culture – New York City – it was shocking. Especially given that the Dutch seemed so far advanced in other soon-to-be staples of modern life: the use of debit cards was already near universal, as was the mobile phone. ‘Coffee’ in the Netherlands is something best served sitting down, preferably with a cookie, over good – or at least intimate – conversation. It is what is offered to you by everybody welcoming you for more than a five-minute stretch: the bank manager, the upscale store’s saleswoman – even the police, who once graciously offered me a cup after hauling me in for a garbage infraction. Coffee and the leisurely conversation and one cookie that go with it are so echt Dutch that even Islamophobic politician Geert Wilders invoked the tradition when putting down former Amsterdam mayor Job Cohen, who unlike the coffee-drinking Dutch, Wilders famously implied, drank tea in mosques. Despite the recent preponderance of Starbucks and boutique coffee brewers in the city, some habits are hard to break. Dutch people will, of course, buy coffee to go, but more often than not, they carry – or bike – it to the place where they’ll be drinking it, rarely sipping as they cycle.

Indeed, the first Dutch answer to New York and London’s coffee culture was its own Coffee Company (www.coffeecompany. nl), which gained popularity in the late 1990s. Starbucks was a latecomer to the Netherlands, despite having its only roasting plant outside the US in Amsterdam. It would take until 2011 for the stores to dot the city’s streets. One has to wonder if the Dutch sit-down market was a hard one to crack. The Netherlands has a long relationship with coffee. In the 17th century, it became Europe’s main supplier via its colonies in what are now Indonesia and Suriname. You can read a fictional account of it in David Liss’s historical novel, The Coffee Trader, available in English in many of the city’s bookshops. Go Dutch and sit back with a cup of coffee – I like Two for Joy’s amply stuffed Chesterfields (Frederiksplein 29 & Haarlemmerdijk 182, http://twoforjoy. nl) – and the book; you’ll be transported back to 17th-century Amsterdam, the beginning of the commodities market and Liss’s version of the bean’s introduction to Amsterdam. A self-made walking tour following the novel’s narrative will for ever change the way you see Warmoesstraat and the tightly-knit streets of the Jordaan. If you don’t want to scream ‘tourist’, though, leave the coffee behind. But don’t forget the cookie.

PART III EAT, DRINK & CHIC

EATING OUT

Our top dining options, from firm favourites to precocious newcomers.

text Karin Engelbrecht

LIBRIJE’S ZUSJE

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Herengracht 542-556 http://waldorfastoria3.hilton.com

NEW

hen the Amsterdam sister of the hallowed three-Michelinstarred De Librije opened in May, there was so much buzz surrounding the restaurant that it was the hardest-to-get reservation in town. Executive chef Sidney Schutte, who worked with De Librije’s Jonnie Boer for ten years, re-creates not only that famous Zwolle restaurant’s signature dishes, but also shows off his own light touch, developed during his time working at The Landmark Mandarin Oriental Hotel in Hong Kong. Says Schutte: ‘I cook in the style of De Librije and I have a deep love for Dutch products, but I will continue to find inspiration from delicious ingredients borrowed from Asian cuisine.’ During a recent visit we particularly enjoyed the starter of delicate langoustines with bright green runner-bean juice, served with marinated pumpkin and quinoa. There was also an impressive dish of turbot and morels, topped with pata negra, crisp potato noodles and purslane; an artfully presented fillet of beef with roasted onions, green pepper, lemon crisps and wood sorrel; and a roasted white chocolate dessert with pistachios and cherries, subtly and surprisingly perfumed with magnolia blossom. Located on the lower ground floor of the Waldorf Astoria Hotel, with views of the manicured courtyard garden, the restaurant’s interior is as classic and understated as Schutte’s food is contemporary and bright. But the experience doesn’t come cheap: a six-course menu will set you back €110.

eating out

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39 worth leaving town for VORK & MES Chef-owner Jonathan Karpathios’ sustainable farm-to-table approach involves growing some 200 crops on over 2,500m2 of land. ‘The harvest determines the menu,’ he says. This philosophy translates to a creative menu of shareable dishes, of which roughly 70 per cent are vegetarian. There’s also a threecourse surprise menu for €35. We were recently wowed by beet bitterballen with yoghurt dip, tarte Tatin of fennel with pork belly and chamomile crème brûlée. The restaurant’s singular location in the HydraPier Pavilion emphasises the kitchen’s close working relationship with nature. Paviljoenlaan 1, Hoofddorp www.vorkenmes.nl

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trendy THE FAT DOG

ichelin-starred chef Ron Blaauw’s latest venture, a hip hot-dog snacketeria, takes a lowbrow break from the renowned Amsterdam chef ’s usual high-end cooking. We liked the Gangs of New York, an artisan frankfurter with just the right burst and bite, served with sauerkraut, onion marmalade, mustard and bacon crisps; and the creative Casablanca, with lamb sausage, baba ghanoush, carawaycucumber and mayo. Both are served on pooch-printed paper for €7.50. While these haute dogs are clearly a different breed from those dodgy Dam-square species, a few frietjes on the side wouldn’t go amiss for that price. Ruysdaelkade 251 www.thefatdog.nl

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classic BIDOU

quick & simple CANTINETTA WINE & PASTA This popular Roman-style osteria attracts a lively Westend clientele who stop by for steaming plates of housemade pasta with classic sauces such as vongole and carbonara, made from locally grown ingredients. The service is friendly, but can be slow, so scope out which wine you want from the rustic wooden shelving along the exposed brick walls, and settle in. De Clercqstraat 105 www.cantinetta.nl

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Decorated like a French country dining room, with botanical wallpaper and fresh flowers to match, this family restaurant on budding Beukenplein in Oost serves cosy classics from the Mediterranean kitchen, such as whole sea bream grilled on a Big Green Egg barbecue and served with caponata and rosemary-flecked potatoes (€18.75); and thin-crusted woodoven pizzas (from €8.75). Bring the kids; they can make their own pizzas, which they pass to the kitchen through a mini pizza hatch (€7.50 including a beverage and ice cream).

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Beukenplein 21 www.restaurantbidou.com

PART III EAT, DRINK & CHIC

ON THE MENU

Three of a kind to suit every taste. text Karin Engelbrecht

wood-fired pizza

coffee connoisseurs fireside drinks

MICHEL-INN

KOKO COFFEE & DESIGN

HANNEKE’S BOOM

Pizza and pintxos (those little skewered Basque bites on bread) may not seem like a natural combination, but it makes perfect sense as the type of food you share with friends in a convivial setting. The thin-crusted pizzas come with toppings such as black tiger prawns with rocket and chilli (€14.50) or wild spinach, caramelised red onions and goat’s cheese (€13.50). Steve Bikoplein 12 www.michel-inn.nl

Enjoy the aromas of organic, lightly roasted beans from the Antwerp micro-roastery Caffènation before downing that espresso. Bored? Flip through a vintage magazine, try on something Scandinavian or ogle the latest works by young artists. This coffee bar-slashboutique-slash-gallery in the Red Light District is a breath of fresh coffee-scented air. Oudezijds Achterburgwal 145 http://ilovekoko.com

Head here for beers and bitterballen with idyllic IJ views. Situated on a longneglected yet picturesque part of Dijksgracht, the venue was entirely constructed from upcycled materials and urban hippy hand-me-downs. It’s as laid-back as it sounds, and the carefree spirit, singular setting and cosy fireplace certainly help to make up for the occasionally lax service. Dijksgracht 4 www.hannekesboom.nl

PISTACHE

LOT SIXTY ONE

MSTQ (AT MYSTIQUE)

The Sardinian chef who runs the kitchen at nearby hipstermagnet Bar Moustache is in charge of this newly opened pizzeria – and it shows. We loved the Tartufo, with al dente potatoes, fontina cheese and truffle (€15), and the Francesco with gorgonzola, pear and radicchio. Both had artfully shaved toppings and what we consider the perfect thin crust – lightly charred, chewy and crisp. Frederiksplein 8-hs www.facebook.com/pistache. amsterdam/info

Ask any Amsterdam coffee aficionado about their favourite spots and chances are they’ll mention this hole in the wall near bustling Ten Katemarkt. That’s because, as the name implies, at Lot Sixty One they actually roast their own beans. Seating is limited and doesn’t invite lingering, but with excellent flat whites, cold brews and expertly pulled espressos there are plenty of reasons to pop in if you’re in the area. Kinkerstraat 112 www.lotsixtyonecoffee.com

The only mystery is why this cocktail bar isn’t more widely known. It may be the hidden location (downstairs below a restaurant) or the food – which can be hit-ormiss – but it’s certainly not down to the skills of the mixologists, who need only know a few favourite flavours to create the ideal cocktail. And then there’s the allure of ingestion by firelight in the cosy, candlelit lounge bar... Utrechtsestraat 30a www.mystiqueamsterdam.nl

IL PECORINO

SCANDINAVIAN EMBASSY

DE YSBREEKER

First you’ll feel sorry for the sweaty chef working the wood oven, but then you’ll notice him singing in Italian as he flings dough into the air. With more than 20 excellent pizza varieties (€6.50-€15) and over a dozen Italian wines, it’s no surprise that it’s always rammed here, despite the up-and-coming location. Van der Pekstraat 2 www.ilpecorino.nl

Join the smorgasbord of international patrons at this spartan kaffebar for beans from various Scandinavian micro-roasters, prepared using manual brewing methods such as pour-over, aeropress and clever dripper or an espresso machine. The owners’ passion for their product is unparalelled. Sarphatipark 34 http://scandinavianembassy.nl

Admire the masterful mix of modern and art-deco features inside this storied café in Oost before snuggling up on leather couches by the fire. If it’s sunny, there’s a large riverside terrace, too. Either way, we recommend ordering the excellent charcuterie platter (€20.75, serves two or more) with a fine glass of wine. Weesperzijde 23 www.deysbreeker.nl

on the menu

COMFORT FOOD GOES CHIC.

Childhood favourites reinvented.

f food trends are a sign of the times, the current inclination for poshed-up nursery nosh could only be a craving for the coddling comfort of the familiar. Arguably, the trend began with the cupcake, which was once only a favourite at childrenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s parties. But local chefs are now giving other typical Dutch childhood favourites a fancy makeover. At Frites uit Zuyd, fries are made from premium potatoes and served with house-made sauces such as piccalillimayonnaise or Limburgs zuurvlees (slow-braised beef stew, itself a comforting classic). Restaurant Meatballs, meanwhile, pays homage

to the humble gehaktbal with over ten meatball varieties, from bacon & cheddar beef to vegetarian pumpkin balls. At Ijsboutique, ice cream goes luxe with three bottles of MoĂŤt & Chandon used to make just five litres of the house speciality. FRITES UIT ZUYD Ceintuurbaan 113-115 www.fritesuitzuyd.nl MEATBALLS Warmoesstraat 15 www.meatballs.nl IJSBOUTIQUE Johannes Verhulststraat 107h www.ijsboutique.nl

PART III EAT, DRINK & CHIC

pretty things

PRETTY THINGS Purses at the ready: these tempting stores will have you reaching for your credit card. text Elisah Jacobs

ANNA + NINA

NEW IN TOWN

The first store in De Pijp neighbourhood was such a success that fashion marketing, PR and retail old hands Anna and Nina have opened a second one, just a year and a half later. Specialised in affordable jewellery (find Balinese folksy brand Jewel Rocks and vintage-inspired pieces from SF studio Amano Trading), they also stock a delightfully eclectic mix of framed butterflies, ceramics, beauty

products, fashion and vintage furniture, while the eponymous house label produces fashionable cushions, bedspreads and napkins. Our top pick is the embroidered espadrilles by The Old House (think tomato red with Day of the Dead skulls or denim blue with one winking and one open eye). Bigger and better than the original, ANNA + NINA 2.0 is part of Project 1012, which is cleaning up the image of the city’s infamous Red Light District with various cultural

initiatives. With ANNA + NINA, they’re off to a very good start.

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Kloveniersburgwal 44 Gerard Doustraat 94 www.anna-nina.nl

design collaboration ACE & TATE X DROOG

vintage LES PETITES PUCES This cute vintage shop (literally: ‘The Little Fleas’ – although it seems perfectly sanitary) just moved from Amsterdam West to a new location in the middle of the Red Light District. Owner Susanne Bakker sells secondhand and vintage fashion, handbags, shoes and jewellery. At the previous location you could order fresh coffee, and while you can’t do that here, you can buy packaged coffee and tea to make at home (our faves are the milky oolong and a smoked lapsang souchong). The collection changes weekly so there’s always a good reason to drop by. programme.

Local-gone-international design label Studio Droog, well known for its superlative collection of Dutch Designers at the bleeding edge of furniture and product design, joins with Dutch glasses brand Ace & Tate for a collaboration that is pure, unadulterated eye candy. Literally. The ‘Let’s make a Spectacle’ collection is available in Hotel Droog, the one-room hostelry that, along with a café and shop, comprises the Studio Droog experience. Until the end of September, in the pop-up store-within-a-store, you’ll find Ace & Tate’s latest (sun) glasses collection. More good news: Ace & Tate is all about affordable luxury, and all glasses are €98 all-in.

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Staalstraat 7B www.aceandtate.nl / www.hoteldroog.com

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Sint Jansstraat 61 www.lespetitespuces.nl

teenage threads SUBDUED After Berlin, Brussels and Barcelona, it’s Amsterdam’s turn for Italian brand Subdued to set up shop – not one, but two shops, in fact: the flagship store is in the centre of Amsterdam on the lively Leidsestraat, and next to the Vondelpark in Amsterdam’s fancy Oud-Zuid neighbourhood you’ll find the second. Find trendy and affordable fashion for teenagers, but also for those who feel young at heart – a kind of European take on Urban Outfitters.

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Van Baerlestraat 3 Leidsestraat 73 www.subdued.it

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PART III EAT, DRINK & CHIC

what’s in store

WHAT’S IN STORE Fashion-forward style – for him (M) and her (F).

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text Elisah Jacobs

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VINTAGE 55 (M/F)

MARIE STELLA MARIS

The name may be a tribute to the good old days, but in this new store you’ll find no vintage at all; rather, vintage-inspired fashion and reproductions of historical fashion items. There are plenty of golden oldies with a modern touch: think Bermuda shorts, parkas and striped shirts for him; and trench coats, pleated dresses and A-line skirts for her. Good to know: Vintage 55 also collaborates with Twining Tea and Vans sneakers.

Dutch water brand Marie Stella Maris (MSM) makes mineral water from its own source, and with every bottle you buy you’re helping several clean water projects. In addition to mineral water, Marie Stella Maris also has its own skin, body and hair product line for men and women made of natural ingredients such as coconut oil, lavender and sweet almond oil. Find all of that in the first MSM store in de Nine Streets. Cheers!

Cornelis Schuystraat 13 www.vintage55.com

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THONET German designer furniture brand Thonet recently opened a showroom on IJburg, the biggest outside of their home country. In the 400m2 concept gallery design junkies can see classics such as the S 285 from Marcel Breuer and Mies van der Rohe’s S 533 chair alongside new designs like the floor lamp LUM 2.0. The gallery will also host several exhibitions by Thonet and floor specialist Senso. Pedro de Medinalaan 53 www.thonet.de

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Keizersgracht 357 www.marie-stella-maris.com

GASSAN JAEGER LE COULTRE (M/F) Swiss watch brand Jaeger Le Coultre, in collaboration with Dutch diamond house Gassan, has opened its first boutique in the Benelux. A high-end candy store for collectors of exclusive watches, the 100m2 shop is divided into two floors and houses everything from the ‘humble’ Caliber 101 to watches constructed from 1,200 pieces.

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PC Hooftstraat 102 www.gassan.com

DILLE EN KAMILLE

I LOVE VINTAGE (F)

This concept store on the Nieuwendijk is full of handy items for the home, garden and kitchen, and a space for workshops and tastings recently opened up. Enrol for a cooking course with Amsterdambased chef Bart Samson or release your inner gardener during the ‘Urban Gardening’ workshop. Drop by in the store to ask about the latest workshops.

The eBay shop of Iranian Faranak Mirjalili was so popular that a real-life, bricksand-mortar store in the centre of Amsterdam was born to conquer the rest of the fashion lovers in Amsterdam. Shop here for vintage shoes, bags and accessories and vintage-inspired skirts, petticoats, playsuits and dresses. Very tempting…

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Nieuwendijk 16-18 www.dille-kamille.com

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Prinsengracht 201 www.ilovevintage.nl

JO MALONE (M/F)

VANILIA (F)

Just follow your nose to Dutch department store de Bijenkorf for the shop-inshop of Jo Malone, the most delicious smelling perfume brand. Shop here for the British brand’s London Rain collection inspired by a (typically Dutch?) shower that smells as fresh as morning dew. You’ll also find scented candles. You can even make your own perfume so you’ll always have your own unique scent.

Dutch fashion brand Vanilia loves monumental buildings to house its stores. Amsterdam counts two Vanilia shops: in the Museum Quarter and in the Nine Streets. You never get bored because Vanilia designs 14 collections a year, divided into three lines, each designed by a different designer. The fashion is for the trendy 30-something woman, but there’s always room for exceptions.

De Bijenkorf, Dam 1 www.jomalone.com

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Van Baerlestraat 30 Runstraat 9 www.vanilia.com

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PART IV

THE

sep & oct 2014

FESTIVALS/MUSIC/ CLUBBING/EXHIBITIONS/ STAGE/FAMILY/SPORTS/ GAY & LESBIAN

For complete listings, see www.iamsterdam.com

MICROPIA You can’t see them, but they’re here. They’re on you, in you and you’ve got more than 100,000 billion of them. They’re with you when you eat, when you breathe, when you kiss. They’re everywhere, on your hands and in your belly, and they meddle in everything. They shape your world: what you smell and what you taste; whether you get sick or get better. They can save us or destroy us. Microbes: the smallest and most powerful organisms on our planet. We know very little about them, but can learn so much from them – about our health, alternative energy sources and much more. Unique in the world, in Micropia you look from really close, revealing a whole new world, more beautiful and spectacular than you could ever have imagined. Opens 1 October Artisplein, Plantage Kerklaan 36-38 www.micropia.nl

PART IV THE A-LIST

FESTIVALS & EVENTS FESTIVALS & EVENTS AMSTERDAM IN-WATER BOAT SHOW 2014 This offshoot of the Amsterdam Boat Show returns for its third edition, with plenty of action on and around the water, plus lectures, presentations and workshops for and by boating enthusiasts. Tue 2-Sun 7 Sep, NDSM-werf, www.hiswatewater.nl. 11.0019.00, €8-€18.50 START BUYING ART More than 40 major galleries present work by 100 of today’s leading artists. Organisers We Like Art are dedicated to bringing high-quality art to a wider audience and as such, all works at this event are on sale for a maximum of €1,500. Thur 4-Sun 7 Sep, Westergasfabriek (Machinegebouw), www. welikeart.nl. 11.00, €5 DUTCH THEATRE FESTIVAL An annual celebration of the best theatre productions of the season, the 11 best productions (chosen by a professional jury) return to stages across the city, and a selection of performances feature English surtitles. Thur 4-Sun 14 Sep, various locations, www.tf.nl/en. Various times & prices

and international authors to explore the boundaries between literature and journalism, focusing on a new region each year. The Caribbean forms the core of this edition, with special performances and presentations by authors, poets, musicians and other global talents. Fri 12-Sun 14 Sep, various locations, www.readmyworld.org. Various times & prices WEST’IVAL Free outdoor festival featuring film, photography, music and food. The programme includes short and feature-length films, three photo displays themed around the neighbourhood and its inhabitants and a wide selection of food. Fri 12-Sun 14 Sep, Mercatorplein, www.westival-amsterdam.com. Various times, free FOTOWEEK Museums, galleries, shops and other organisations once again immerse themselves in the world of photography. See pages 10-15. Fri 12-Sun 21 Sep, various locations, www.defotoweek.nl. Various times & prices

Highlight festivals

AMSTERDAM HALLOWEEN FESTIVAL Amsterdam Spook returns with five days of bloody good Halloween antics at the end of October. Highlights include an all-night horror movie marathon, make-up workshops, costumed Fright Night Skate, exhibition, Halloween dinner, themed hotel rooms, kids’ activities and of course the infamous costume party with this year’s theme taking you right to the depths of hell with ‘The Underworld’. Wed 29 Oct-Sun 2 Nov, various locations, www.halloweenamsterdam.com. Various times & prices

JORDAAN FESTIVAL facelift, this annual fair is the ideal place to get up to date on A celebration of the Amsterthe latest in home interiors, dam folk music tradition, with open-air performances by Dutch outdoor furnishings, art, concept design and lifestyle trends. singers at the festival grounds by Tue 30 Sep-Sun 5 Oct, Amsterthe bus station near the Elandsdam RAI, Europaplein, www. gracht. The programme is always woonbeurs.nl. 10.00, €15 lively, featuring drum bands, children’s games, opera, cabaret SEVEN BRIDGES FESTIVAL AMSTERDAM FRINGE and mass singalongs. FESTIVAL Fri 19-Sun 21 Sep, Elandsgracht/ Four days of romantic chamber music in the beautiful ‘Seven Running alongside the Marnixstraat, www.jordaan INTERNATIONAL JEWISH Bridges’ neighbourhood. PerDutch Theatre Festival, the festival.nl. Times & prices TBA MUSIC FESTIVAL formances will be held at five Fringe stages a huge array of KLASSIEK OP HET This celebration of Jewish music historic locations: Museum productions by cutting-edge AMSTELVELD Geelvinck-Hinlopen Huis, home-grown and international promises the customary blend of top-class concerts (from renaisMuseum Van Loon, the City producers and artists at more This free outdoor festival presance to rap and classic to klezArchives, the Amstelkerk and the than 20 locations across sents a whole day of classical mer), workshops and a cultural Goethe-Instituut. Amsterdam. See page 22. music for the entire family. Upmarket. See pages 32-36. Thur 2-Tue 7 Oct, various locaThur 4-Sun 14 Sep, various locaand-coming classical talents and Sat 13-Tue 16 Sep, Muziekgetions, www.zevenbruggenfestival. tions, www.amsterdamfringe established ensembles, choirs nl. Various times, €18 festival.nl. Various times & prices bouw aan ’t IJ, Piet Heinkade 1/ and orchestras will perform as Uilenburger Synagogue, Nieuwe the Amstelveld square turns into AFROVIBES FESTIVAL HET BACCHUS Uilenburgerstraat 91, www. one big stage. The programme WIJNFESTIVAL joodsmuziekfestival.nl. Various This African cultural festival includes The Concertgebouw times & prices returns with today’s most unique, Honouring the Roman god of Chamber Orchestra and the intriguing and extraordinary wine, the Bacchus Wijnfestival Kampen Boys Choir as well as an CELLO & FILM African artists and performances presents more than 250 wines open stage and several stalls. Organised in collaboration with from the Netherlands and all from all corners of the world, in Sat 20 Sep, Amstelveld, www. the Cello Biënnale Amsterdam around the globe. combination with plenty of moklassiekophetamstelveld.nl. (see page 26), this mini festival Wed 8-Sun 12 Oct, MC Theater, bile catering, DJs and music. 11.00, free presents various performances, Polonceaukade 5/Bijlmer ParkFri 5-Sun 7 Sep, Amsterdamse NORTH SEA SURF FESTIVAL theater, Anton de Komplein 240, Bos, www.bacchuswijnfestival.nl. premieres of films about the famous cellists Anner Bijlsma and The first of its kind in the Nethwww.afrovibes.nl. Times & 14.00, €15 Ernst Reijseger and silent films erlands, this festival is devoted to price TBA VALTIFEST from EYE’s collection accominstrumental surf music and sees PIANO DUO FESTIVAL panied by live cello music. The wild child of Amsterdam’s the Messer Chups and Dirty Fuse Sun 14-Sun 21 Sep, EYE FilmTop piano duo Lestari Scholtes summer festival programme recatch some tasty musical waves, museum, IJpromenade 1, and Gwylim Janssens return turns with a heavyweight line-up along with six more bands from www.eyefilm.nl. Various times with the second edition of their of DJs playing a range of music the Netherlands and abroad. As & prices very own festival. Some of the as eclectic as the dress code. This well as all the live music, the fest world’s leading pianists will be year’s theme is ‘The 7 Sins’, so also features screenings of new flying in for five days of 20get busy on a criminally good (or POP UP WEEK AMSTERDAM and classic surf movies. This new event showcases crefingered concerts. bad) outfit. Sat 20 Sep, Melkweg, Lijnbaansative, innovative and vibrant Wed 8-Sun 12 Oct, BethaniënSat 6 Sep, NDSM-werf, www. gracht 234A, www.melkweg.nl. Amsterdam: dining in a manège, klooster, Barndesteeg 6, www. valtifest.nl. 13.00, €45 18.00, €18.50 sleepovers in an art gallery, pianoduofestival.nl. Various NOORDERPARKFESTIVAL DISCOVERY FESTIVAL testing new food concepts with times & prices famous chef Jean Beddington. Amsterdam-Noord comes into An annual fixture in Amsterdam, CAMERA JAPAN See page 7. its own, uniting a host of cultural Eindhoven and Rotterdam, this Thur 18-Sun 28 Sep, various The largest multidisciplinary institutions for a free fun-filled festival is a party with an interJapanese cultural festival in the day. The programme is a blend of locations, www.popup-week.com. active, scientific twist where it’s Various times & prices Benelux, Camera Japan offers old-fashioned funfair, street theall about the kick of discovering a heady mix of film, art, music, atre event and music festival. new things. THE REST IS NOISE dance, fashion and food. Sun 7 Sep, Noorderpark, www. Fri 26 Sep, Tolhuistuin, TolhuisFri 10-Sun 12 Oct, Kriterion, noord.amsterdam.nl. 12.00, free The newest and most avant-gar- weg 5, www.discoveryfestival.nl. de acts in pop and electronica. Roetersstraat 170/Melkweg, 21.00, €17.50 READ MY WORLD FESTIVAL Fri 19 Sep, Muziekgebouw aan ’t Lijnbaansgracht 234A, www. WOONBEURS IJ, Piet Heinkade 1 www.muziek camerajapan.nl. Various times International literature gebouw.nl. 19.00, €28.50 & prices festival that challenges Dutch If your pad could do with a style AMSTERDAM HERITAGE DAYS Dozens of important buildings, monuments and private homes will cast open their doors to the public, all free of charge. Sat 13 & Sun 14 Sep, various locations, www.openmonumenten dag.nl. Various times, free

GEELVINCK FORTEPIANO FESTIVAL Over three weekends, the Geelvinck-Hinlopen Huis brings the sound of the harpsichord back to life with eight classical concerts. Fri 10-Sat 25 Oct, Posthoornkerk, Haarlemmerstraat 124-126, www.geelvinckfestival.nl. 20.15, €35 CINEKID Annual film, television and new-media festival for children, attended by more than 50,000 children and (international) guests every year. Alongside film, documentaries, shorts, cartoons, television productions and cross-media productions, there’s also a large number of interactive installations and workshops. Sat 11-Sat 18 Oct, Westergasfabriek, www.cinekid.nl. Various times & prices AMSTERDAM DANCE EVENT The definitive gateway to the international electronic music scene and a true dance lovers’ Mecca, the ADE is the world’s biggest club festival and Europe’s leading electronic music conference. See page 29. Wed 15-Sun 19 Oct, various locations, www.amsterdamdance-event.nl. Various times & prices CELLO BIËNNALE The world’s biggest cello festival returns. See page 26. Thur 16-Sat 25 Oct, Muziekgebouw aan ’t IJ, Piet Heinkade 1/Bimhuis, Piet Heinkade 3, www.cellobiennale.nl. Various times & prices AMSTERDAM MUSIC FESTIVAL Some of the leading names in electronic dance music invade the city for this EDM blowout. Sat 18 Oct, Amsterdam ArenA, ArenA Boulevard 1, www. amsterdammusicfestival.com. 21.00, €69 PINT BOKBIER FESTIVAL With over 50 types of ‘bok’ beer on tap, this is a haven for connoisseurs and enthusiasts alike. Fri 24-Sun 26 Oct, Beurs van Berlage, Damrak 243, www.pint. nl. Various times, €10 (TBC) ORIGIN CHOCOLATE EVENT This delicious festival invites chocolate lovers to put on their connoisseur hats, meeting world-famous chocolatiers and experts, joining tasting sessions and workshops or sitting down to an Origin Chocolate dinner. Sat 25 Oct, Royal Tropical Institute, Mauritskade 63, www. originchocolate.eu. Time & prices TBA LONDON CALLING An insight into what’s happening across the channel and beyond, bands performing at this edition include Spoon, The Bohicas, Wild Child, Gengahr and Sebadoh, to name but a few. Fri 31 Oct & Sat 1 Nov, Paradiso, Weteringschans 6-8, www. londoncalling.nl. 18.00, €20 (per night)/€35 (both nights)

sep & oct 2014

MUSIC/POP & JAZZ VANCOUVER SLEEP CLINIC Young Aussie singer-songwriter Tim Bettinson picked this unusual moniker for his musical project because, as he says, it ‘conjures up imagery of long cold winters; of isolation and remoteness’. His debut EP, Winter, definitely channels the melancholic spirit of its seasonal namesake. Tue 2 Sep, Paradiso, 20.00, €9 EARTH, WIND AND FIRE EXPERIENCE Frontman Al McKay still leads this (version of the) legendary act that fuses R&B with soul, gospel and at least four additional genres to boot. They’re known for hits like ‘Shining Star’, ‘Boogie Wonderland’ and ‘That’s the Way of the World’. Wed 3 Sep, Paradiso, 20.30, €35 WOODS The throwback tunes of this Brooklyn-based outfit defy easy categorisation. Their sound falls somewhere between garage rock, early ’60s folk ballads and psychedelic pop. It’s the perfect music for a road trip or, as their name suggests, a campfire on a warm summer night. Wed 3 Sep, Paradiso, 21.00, €10 ÁSGEIR Ásgeir is a young artist whose first release recently became the fastest selling Icelandic debut album of all time. If Bon Iver ever teamed up with Sigur Rós, the end result would probably sound like one of his dreamy ballads. Thur 4 Sep, Paradiso, 19.30, €16 LIAM FINN Born of fine New Zealand pop heritage (son of Neil, nephew of Tim), Finn has recently dished out this third solo record, once again flipping between frantic rock and languid, earnest indie pop. Personality, energetic performances and startling musicianship help to tie the two together, making his live shows that bit more special. Fri 5 Sep, Bitterzoet, 21.00, €11 BECK The impossibly versatile Beck has mashed together just about every musical genre imaginable. He’s best known for his oddball ’90s hits like ‘Loser’ and ‘Devil’s Haircut’, but his most recent material is much more melancholy. After a severe spinal injury sidelined him for nearly six years, the SoCal native returned in 2014 with the devastatingly gorgeous Morning Phase. If you prefer his peppier material, don’t worry. Recent sets have been an eclectic mix of tracks from across his schizophrenic career. Mon 8 Sep, Heineken Music Hall, 20.00, €42.50 DAMIEN JURADO Jurado is one part Johnny Cash, one part Bruce Springsteen and, if you cut him, he’d probably bleed sand and motor oil. His songs epitomise blue-collar life in the Pacific Northwest, his native land, and are filled with tales of hard

FUTURE ISLANDS Chance’, two self-produced tracks she posted online back in 2008. A 2014 appearance on Late Night Banks’ lush cover of Interpol’s With David Letterman gave this ‘Slow Hands’ further catapulted very independent synth-pop act NEON TREES her into the limelight. After much from Baltimore a major boost. Back in 2010, these dance punks hype and anticipation, her first Frontman Samuel T Herring’s BLONDE REDHEAD conquered a good chunk of the full-length album, Broke With passionate, distinctive vocals globe with ‘Animal’. The catchy Led by vocalist Kazu Makino, Expensive Tastes, is due (and tendency to get so wound single hit #1 in the US before these cult heroes of the indie-rock this year. up that he beats on his chest spending nearly six months on scene have been blazing trails Thur 25 Sep, Paradiso, while singing) have captivated the Dutch charts. Their latest since the early ’90s. Over the 20.30, €18 audiences worldwide. album, Pop Psychology, landed years, their music has evolved Fri 3 Oct, Melkweg, 19.00, €16 SWANS earlier this year. from noise rock along the lines of NYNKE LAVERMAN Thur 11 Sep, Melkweg, Sonic Youth to a unique blend of Michael Gira’s Swans is an old 19.00, €15 dreamy pop and rock. band with ties to the early ’80s Chances are you won’t know what Sat 20 Sep, Tolhuistuin, goth scene, but in reality these Dutch singer Nynke Laverman is KAISER CHIEFS 20.00, €17.50 twisted noise rockers have on about, as her lyrics are typically If you attended a university in the reinvented themselves in recent in Frisian. But don’t hold that PHARRELL WILLIAMS UK between 2005 and 2012, then years. They specialise in twisted, against her because the strong this band from Leeds requires Williams’ fame hit stratospheric noisy and challenging conceptual fado and Latin atmosphere are no introduction. Their crowdheights when his impossibly works, led by a howling, quasiunmistakable. pleasing brand of pop punk with catchy single ‘Happy’ took off religious character that seems Fri 3 Oct, Meervaart, brash choruses has provided the like a wildfire in 2013. The to possess Gira when he steps 20.30, €13-€18 soundtrack for countless pubsinger/producer has also worked onstage – unless he’s a crazed THE HOOD INTERNET crawls, dorm-room shenanigans alongside everybody from Daft figure in real life too. and riotous scenarios. Punk to Madonna, as well as Fri 26 Sep, Paradiso, Some of the freshest and most Thur 11 Sep, Paradiso, dabbling with big beats, rap and 20.30, €20 original sounds in hip hop are 20.30, €29 rock over the past 15 years. bouncing out of Chicago lately THE BOOTLEG BEATLES and The Hood Internet aren’t They’re considered one of the best the only ones breaking new Beatles cover bands on the planet ground. At this show, they’ll be and they’ve been playing their joined by their fellow Windy songs since 1979. They’ve also City innovators Psalm One and performed over 4,000 concerts ShowYouSuck. and they’re still going strong. Sun 5 Oct, Melkweg, Sat 27 Sep, Melkweg, 19.30, €15 19.00, €27.50 BEAR IN HEAVEN SOJA They’re technically categorised This band hails from Arlington, as indie rockers but Bear in Virginia and they whip up an Heaven dabble in everything eclectic mix of reggae and rock, from synth-pop to psychedelia. with influences ranging from Led by Jon Philpot, the band has Led Zeppelin to Bob Marley. been critically beloved ever since Sat 27 Sep, Melkweg, they released their first full-length 19.30, €17.50 album in 2007. Sun 5 Oct, Bitterzoet, SINÉAD O’CONNOR 21.00, €13.50 O’Connor and controversy have KONRAD KOSELLECK gone hand in hand ever since the BIG BAND Irish singer-songwriter released THE ANTLERS her hit single ‘Nothing Compares These renowned Dutch bigWhat began as a lo-fi folk project in a Brooklyn bedroom 2 U’ back in the early ’90s. Her banders are always up for a latest album, I’m Not Bossy, I’m challenge, regularly playing with has since grown into a full-blown indie act with a devoted the Boss, was released earlier new guests and never repeating following. If they’re a new name to you, stop and listen this year. themselves. This evening they’ll because new album Familiars is one of those moments Sun 28 Sep, Melkweg, be joined by Botte Jellema when a good band switches gear towards greatness. 19.30, €35 for new arrangements and Albeit, they’ve switched down a gear, because it’s a very improvisations. slow, calm and layered album that ripples with texture and FIRST AID KIT Mon 6 Oct, Bimhuis, emotion. Peter Silberman’s stunning falsetto is interwoven These two sisters from Stockholm 20.30, €16 rose to fame in 2008 after their with solemn horns, resulting in songs that unveil more on THE HOLD STEADY cover of Fleet Foxes’ ‘Tiger each listen. Fri 3 Oct, Paradiso, 20.30, €16 Mountain Peasant Song’ took Since the early ’00s, The Hold off like a wildfire on YouTube. Steady have been shaking ANI DIFRANCO Tue 23 Sep, Ziggo Dome, They’re now known for off comparisons to Bruce Since bursting on to the scene in 20.00, €39-€49 bittersweet folk rock that’s equal Springsteen. It’s a fair analogy. the early ’90s, the prolific feminist parts dreamy and haunting – Much like ‘The Boss’, their music WE WERE PROMISED icon DiFranco has released tons though there’s a fair amount of is a narratively rich mix of classic JETPACKS of EPs and albums. Her most flailing hair in their surprisingly rock hooks and testaments to the recent release was 2012’s Which This feisty guitar quartet are energetic live performances. illusory nature of Americana. Side Are You On? renowned for their charging Mon 29 Sep, Melkweg, Tue 7 Oct, Melkweg, 19.30, €15 Mon 15 Sep, Paradiso, strums, repetitive chorus calls and 19.30, €15 GRUFF RHYS 20.30, €27.50 their unashamed embrace of their JOLIE HOLLAND native Scottish native burr. This Welsh musician is BIMPOP Tue 23 Sep, Paradiso, Formerly in The Be Good Tanyas, most famous for his time in Singer Una Bergin helms this 20.00, €15 Holland is an American singerexperimental pop band Super ongoing pop music series at the songwriter who likes to keep Furry Animals, as well as other THE JIM JONES REVUE typically jazzy Bimhuis. This things a bit weird. Her music is an quirky collaborations, but he’s also edition features the mysterious Since 2007, Jim Jones’ rowdy experimental blend of folk, blues making a name for himself as a pop of Antwerp’s Blackie & The crew has been pounding out and jazz that has earned Tom well-respected soloist. His latest Oohoos and psych folk from rockabilly tunes reminiscent of Waits’ stamp of approval. release, American Interior, is a Chicago’s Ryley Walker. Jerry Lee Lewis at this best. This Wed 1 Oct, Paradiso, concept album based on the life Thur 18 Sep, Bimhuis, European tour will likely be their 19.30, €12.50 and times of famed 17th-century 20.30, €15 last so be sure to watch them blow explorer John Evans. WATSKY out in style. Tue 7 Oct, Bitterzoet, DEWOLFF Wed 24 Sep, Melkweg, This San Francisco native isn’t 21.00, €13 This blues-rock band may be 19.30, €15 your average rapper. His quirky AGNES OBEL from Limburg but their hearts beats and poetic rhymes have AZEALIA BANKS belong to the American south. earned him tons of appreciation This Danish pianist/singer has They travelled all the way to a This hip-hop phenomenon from people who typically turn up been heralded by critics for her town in Georgia to record their snagged plenty of fans with their noses at hip hop. lush vocals and mesmerising latest album, Grand Southern ‘Seventeen’ and ‘Gimme a Wed 1 Oct, Melkweg, 19.30, €15 work on the keys and at the 2011 people living harder lives. Tue 9 Sep, Paradiso, 20.30, €17.50

Electric. Its blazing guitar riffs and raw vocals recall a young Leon Russell. Sat 20 Sep, Melkweg, 19.30, €17.50

Choice pop & jazz

POP & JAZZ

PART IV THE A-LIST

MUSIC/POP & JAZZ Danish Music Awards, she won five prizes for Best Album and Best Songwriter of the Year. Wed 8 Oct, Royal Theatre Carré, 20.00, €30-€42.50

ANASTACIA She’s one of the most popular international pop singers of the 21st century, having sold over 20 million albums. Now the big-voiced star is coming to Amsterdam to belt out hits like ‘I’m Outta Love’, ‘Paid My Dues’ and ‘Left Outside Alone’. Mon 20 Oct, Paradiso, 20.30, €33

Wed 22 Oct, Royal Theatre Carré, 20.00, €39-€54

refusing to simply exist as a ‘greatest hits’ retro band. Wed 29 Oct, Paradiso, 20.30, €32

Wagner’s ‘Liebestod’ (from Tristan und Isolde); Berg’s Sieben frühe Lieder; and Mahler’s Fourth. Sat 6 Sep, Concertgebouw, 14.15, €49-€59

BAND OF SKULLS They hail from Southampton JOHN LEGEND and their music evokes the LONDON GRAMMAR YO-YO MA & THE SILK spirit of older rock outfits like One of America’s best-loved R&B ROAD ENSEMBLE This English trip-hop trio drew Soundgarden and Black Sabbath. and soul singers, Legend has lent plenty of attention and accolades Their single ‘Friends’ was also his vocal chops to chart-topping The internationally renowned for their 2013 debut album If You included on the soundtrack for songs by Britney Spears, Jay-Z star cellist is currently out on the Wait. They wear their influences one of the Twilight movies – but and Alicia Keys but he’s got plenty road to celebrate 15 years of his on their sleeves and their music don’t hold that against them of hits to call his own too. Silk Road Ensemble, specialising PINK MARTINI has been compared to the likes of because they make hard-rockin’ Thur 30 Oct, Ziggo Dome, in showcasing old and new Massive Attack and Portishead, For the past 20 years this unusual tunes the good old-fashioned way. 20.00, €45-€55 sounds from across the Asian bringing a youthful naivety – and lounge act from Portland, Oregon, Sat 25 Oct, Paradiso, continent. With music by Azmeh, JASON MORAN AND modesty – to the sultry genre. 20.30, €20 Man and Bruce’s ‘Cut the Rug’ has crafted the sort of songs that THE BANDWAGON Wed 8 Oct, Heineken Music Hall, might have been played at Don (commissioned especially for OLD CROW MEDICINE SHOW 20.00, €32 American jazz pianist and the ensemble). Draper’s wake if he had kicked composer Moran has appeared Wed 10 Sep, Concertgebouw, the bucket in 1962. It’s haunting This Nashville-based act has been CRAIG TABORN TRIO mixin’ up bluegrass, skiffle and at Bimhuis numerous times 20.15, €34-€90 stuff that would be perfect for a Taborn is an inspirational folk since 1998. with his group over the past cocktail party in Limbo. MAZEPPA American jazz pianist whose Sun 26 Oct, Paradiso, decade and his performances are Tue 21 Oct, Melkweg, improvised works veer from true 20.30, €20 always reliably surprising. From This may not be a full stage 19.00, €26.50 jazz to classical, blues and beyond. jazz standards to hip hop and production of Tchaikovsky’s Wed 8 Oct, Bimhuis, eccentric pop, you can always Ukrainian operatic drama 20.30, €20 count on a thrilling experience. Mazeppa, but it’s authentically Thur 30 Oct, Bimhuis, performed by a strong Russian ATMOSPHERE 20.30, €22 vocal cast and led by acclaimed This hip-hop duo from Russian conductor Alexander ADDRESSES Minneapolis has been dropping Vedernikov. The Radio transformative rhymes since Bimhuis Philharmonic Orchestra and 1989. The group, led by rapper Piet Heinkade 3 Groot Omroepkoor provide Slug, tend to get lumped in http://bimhuis.nl local support. with the ‘intelli-hop’ crowd, Bitterzoet Sun 13 Sep, Concertgebouw, but don’t mistake them for Spuistraat 2 13.00, €49-56 being boring. As well as having www.bitterzoet.com PAUL LEWIS & THE plenty of interesting things to Heineken Music Hall VERTAVO QUARTET say, they thrive on high-energy ArenA boulevard 590 performances. www.heineken-music-hall.nl The British pianist teams up with Fri 10 Oct, Melkweg, Meervaart the Norwegian string quartet for 20.00, €18 Meer en Vaart 300 works by Liszt, Bartòk, Janácek www.meervaart.nl and Mozart. MICHIEL BORSTLAP Melkweg Tue 16 Sep, Concertgebouw, During his three-decade career, Lijnbaansgracht 234A 20.15, €34-€54 CATRIN FINCH & SECKOU 40 YEARS OF THE Borstlap has toured 60 countries www.melkweg.nl ANGELA HEWITT and collaborated with Herbie North Sea Jazz Club KEITA BIMHUIS Hancock and Gino Vannelli. In Pazzanistraat 1 She’s considered one of the Worlds collide in this duet This renowned jazz venue this special lunch concert he’ll www.northseajazzclub.com world’s greatest living pianists and between Welsh harpist Finch may have an ultra-modern showcase new album Frames. Paradiso her knowledge of Bach’s music is and Senegalese kora player home these days, but it Sun 12 Oct, North Sea Jazz Club, Weteringschans 6-8 extraordinary. At this show, the Keita. They put out one of the was originally established 13.30, €18-€22 www.paradiso.nl Ottawa native will perform his best records of 2013; a gentle, 40 years ago in a smoky Royal Concertgebouw masterpiece Die Kunst der Fuge. CAPAREZZA Concertgebouwplein 10 Wed 17 Sep, Muziekgebouw aan emotional collection of songs former furniture showroom The pseudonym of this Italian www.concertgebouw.nl ’t IJ, 20.15, €10-€35 and rapid-fire improvisations, by cutting-edge improvisers rapper means ‘curly head’ in his Royal Theatre Carré so in tune with each other that who simply wanted a space to YUJA WANG & THE ROYAL native tongue. He combines his Amstel 115 you couldn’t tell where Finch’s jam . The venue’s anniversary CONCERTGEBOUW rhymes with rock influences that https://carre.nl classical training stopped and celebrations get going with ORCHESTRA range from System of a Down to Tolhuistuin Keita’s African folk began. four days of top jazzists Frank Zappa. Tolhuisweg 5 Chinese pianist Yuja Wang first From strummed melodies to (including Benjamin Herman Mon 13 Oct, Melkweg, www.tolhuistuin.nl teamed up with the RCO in 2010 19.30, €23 Ziggo Dome to showcase Prokofiev’s Third intense rhythmic hooks and [pictured], Joe Morris, Han De Passage 100 Piano Concerto. Now she’s back to intensely plucked solos, there’s Bennink, David Kweksilber ORQUESTA BUENA VISTA www.ziggodome.n share in Rossini’s Overture from no hint of culture clash, simply and Wayne Horvitz), but, of SOCIAL CLUB La gazza ladra and Shostakovich’s musical empathy and a shared course, a visit to Bimhuis any The world-renowned Buena Vista First Piano Concerto. love of their own stringed day of the week guarantees Social Club returns to the Royal Wed 17-Fri 19 (20.15) & Sun 21 ‘harps’. enthralling jazz talent. Concertgebouw this month, CLASSICAL Sep (14.15), Concertgebouw, Sat 11 Oct, Bimhuis, 20.30, Wed 1-Sat 4 Oct, Bimhuis, although we’re sorry to report that €30-€122.50 LUNCHTIME CONCERTS this is their ‘Adios’ tour. Expect €17 various times & prices DIE ENTFÜHRUNG AUS the unmistakable Cuban són, Who said there’s no such thing DEM SERAIL salsa and mambo sounds that as a free lunch (concert)? The SAGE FRANCIS IMELDA MAY they’ve worked so hard to revive Royal Concertgebouw’s lunchtime Akademie für Alte Musik Berlin and share in recent years. After a four-year hiatus, Francis and Cappella Amsterdam This Northern Irish songstress concerts are exactly that. It’s Tue 14 Oct, Concertgebouw, is back at it. The talented cranks out rockabilly tunes that advisable to show up at least half perform Mozart’s ‘exotic’ German 20.15, €21-€54 opera (The Abduction from the sound like they’ve been teleported wordsmith is acclaimed for witty an hour ealy to guarantee entry. rhymes that won him quite a few Seraglio), dating from 1782. into the 21st century from a ’50s Every Wed, Concertgebouw, ERLEND ØYE rap battles back in the early ’00s. Sat 20 Sep, Concertgebouw, dance hall. 12.30, free Øye cut his teeth in acts like indieCopper Gone, his latest album, 13.30, €37-43 Tue 21 Oct, Melkweg, NOORDERKERK CONCERTS folk duo Kings of Convenience. was released on his own record 19.30, €20 NEW EUROPEAN Nowadays, he cranks out quirky label earlier this year. From September through May, ENSEMBLE ELVIS COSTELLO solo and collaborative projects, Sun 26 Oct, Melkweg, Amsterdam’s Noorderkerk hosts often in the electro realm. 20.00, €16 Everybody from Bill Murray a one-hour classical concert every The musicians in this ensemble Tue 14 Oct, Paradiso, enjoy mixing both the old and the to Linda Ronstadt has covered Saturday afternoon. LEVEL 42 20.30, €17.50 new. Along with soprano Björk the songs of this living legend. Every Sat from 20 Sep, Back in the ’80s, Level 42 Níelsdóttir, they lead a show Costello has been a critical darling Noorderkerk, 14.00 AFROJACK hit the big time with hits like featuring the works of Arvo Pärt, since he first burst on to the BERNARD HAITINK’S Expect big beats, big house noise ‘Love Games’ and ‘Running in Pergolesi and others. music scene in the ’70s. Since JUBILEE CONCERT and big atmosphere. The gig is the Family’. They’ve enjoyed a Wed 24 Sep, Muziekgebouw aan then, he’s penned hits like ‘Allison’ one of the main events of this ’t IJ, 20.15, €10-€28.50 while making his mark on genres resurgence in recent years, partly The grand master celebrates year’s Amsterdam Dance Event through celebrating the 25th ranging from punk to new wave. 60 years as a composer in this ST PETERSBURG (see page 29). anniversary of the Running in Wise Up Ghost, the album he performance with the Radio CHAMBER CHOIR Fri 17 Oct, Ziggo Dome, 20.00, the Family album, but also by recorded with hip-hop mainstays Philharmonic Orchestra. It €42.50-€52.50 showcasing new material and These a cappella masters of The Roots, landed in 2013. includes some of his fave works: © JOSH PULMAN

Choice pop & jazz

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8 X COPIES OF THE SOFT ATLAS OF AMSTERDAM Full of hand-drawn images and typography, illustrator Jan Rothuizen’s The Soft Atlas of Amsterdam takes readers on an erratic journey through the city via topographical maps superimposed with the artist’s response to what he sees. As much mind map as conventional atlas, this is part city guide, part travel book, part comic and part novel. Rothuizen paints an animated, humorous portrait of the city, and of course of the artist himself. ‘For this book,’ says Rothuizen, ‘I visited a supermarket, a prison-cell, the mayor’s office. I walked with a blind man and local residents trough their neighbourhoods.’ The result is like taking a stroll with a friend, chatting idly as you go. Now available in English, The Soft Atlas of Amsterdam makes both a delightful guide and a unique souvenir. www.nieuwamsterdam.nl

THE UNDERWORLD HALLOWEEN PARTY Fuelled by an unbridled Halloween obsession, a passion for costumes and a bloodthirsty desire to create out-of-the-ordinary experiences, Amsterdam Spook organises an annual Halloween Festival and costume party in Amsterdam. This year, party guests will be descending into The Underworld for an evening of top DJs and performance art. With costume possibilities as dark, infinite and diabolical as the bowels of hell, you’ll want to dress to possess. Subscribe to A-mag for your chance to win a one-way ticket to The Underworld… 31 October, 21.30-04.00 Hotel Arena ’s-Gravesandestraat 5 halloweenamsterdam.com

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PART IV THE A-LIST

MUSIC/POP & JAZZ / CLASSICAL Russian classical and folk music will perform works by Rachmaninoff, Tchaikovsky and Kastalski. Wed 24 Sep, Concertgebouw, 20.15, €22-€58 PIERRE-LAURENT AIMARD, VALÉRIE AIMARD & DIEGO TOSI This trio is coming together to celebrate the life and times of Elliott Carter. In 2012, the famed American composer wrote ‘Epigrams’, his final symphony, at the remarkable age of 103. They’ll perform it and several more selections from his decadesspanning career. Thur 25 Sep, Muziekgebouw aan ’t IJ, 20.15, €10-€28.50 AAA: THE SUBLIME The Royal Concertgebouw Orchestra transcends earthly concerns in its quest for ‘The Sublime’. In his Requiem, György Ligeti pushes the Renaissance composer Johannes Ockeghem’s polyphony to the extreme, which results in streams of buzzing, undulating sounds whose colour is in a constant state of flux. Like Ligeti’s Requiem, Varèse’s Arcana and Ravel’s La valse are also 20th-century classics. Thur 25 & Fri 26 Sep, Concertgebouw, 21.15, €22.50-€41 SUBLIME Two of Bach’s beautiful motets from the Netherlands Chamber Choir, plus works by Messiaen, Nystedt and world premieres by Evers and Fujikura. Sat 27 Sep, Concertgebouw, 21.00, €23-€36 GUUS JANSSEN & MELLE WEIJTERS Weijters is a masterful jazz guitarist specialised in rare, microtonal models. At this show, he’ll be joined by Guus Janssen, an organist who knows a thing or two about ‘lighter genres’. Together, they’ll perform an improvised set. Sun 28 Sep, Muziekgebouw aan ’t IJ, 11.00, €10-€12.50 THE BACH ORCHESTRA OF THE NETHERLANDS These Dutch specialists in authentic Bach performances have a surprise up their sleeve: this afternoon is all about ‘Wunderkind Mozart’. Soprano Olga Zinovieva sings six of his best arias, also with guest flautist Emma Elkinson. Sun 28 Sep, Concertgebouw, 14.15, €50-€72 NORA FISCHER PLAYS BECK In 2012, Beck surprised his fans by releasing Song Reader, an old-fashioned songbook instead of a recorded album. Soprano Nora Fischer and a saxophone ensemble will perform each of the book’s 20 tunes at this show. Sun 28 Sep, Muziekgebouw aan ’t IJ, 20.15, €10-€17 ROYAL CONCERTGEBOUW ORCHESTRA Danish conductor Michael Schønwandt and Russian pianist Alexander Gavrylyuk team up with the RCO for a performance

Choice classical

The programme consists of compositions by Heinrich Schütz and Olivier Messiaen, in addition to Henry Purcell’s and SvenDavid Sandström’s ‘Hear My Prayer, Oh Lord’. Sun 5 Oct, Muziekgebouw aan ’t IJ, 20.15, €10-€28.50

CALEFAX The Amsterdam-based quintet performs selections by several African melodists, plus young Canadian songsmith Nicole Lizée’s ‘New Work for Reed Quintet and Five Loop Stations’. Sun 12 Oct, Muziekgebouw aan ’t IJ, 20.15, €10-€28.50

NELSON GOERNER APOCALYPTICA Master pianist Goerner tackles a collection of masterpieces by a They’re one of the world’s most few of the greatest composers popular cello ensembles and they of all time. just so happen to be a heavy metal Sun 5 Oct, Concertgebouw, 20.15, band as well. See page 26. €32.50-€47.50 Thur 16 Oct, Muziekgebouw aan ’t IJ, 21.00, €17.50-€25 WIENER AKADEMIE AND RONALD BRAUTIGAM NETHERLANDS PHILHARMONIC ORCHESTRA Pianist Ronald Brautigam MAX RICHTER & DANIEL HOPE joins the classical ensemble for German violinist Augustin Acclaimed composer Richter, known for his classical, a stirring performance on his Hadelich marks his first ambient and cinematic work, is fittingly performing in a 60th birthday. Together, they’ll appearance as an artist-inpop hall on this occasion. Many of his haunting releases, celebrate by playing timeless residence with the acclaimed selections by Beethoven, Mozart orchestra with a programme of like Memoryhouse and Infra, have typically reached way and Weber. works by Schubert, Mendelssohn beyond classical audiences and he’s even signed to an Tue 7 Oct, Concertgebouw, and Marschner. independent rock label in England. Most recently he’s 20.15, €10-€66 Sat 18 & Mon 20 Oct, dared to recompose Vivaldi’s The Four Seasons, teaming Concertgebouw, 20.15, up with violinist Daniel Hope and the orchestra L’Arte del ROYAL CONCERTGEBOUW €12.50-€48.50 Mondo. Richter, himself, will perform with a Moog synth. ORCHESTRA FRANS BRÜGGEN 80 Wed 10 Sep, Paradiso, 19.30, €15 Andris Nelsons conducts Shostakovich (Fifth Symphony), This famous Dutch composer Strauss (Oboe Concerto) and is about to turn 80 and the Flothuis (Cantus amoris). Concertgebouw is helping him Wed 8, Thur 9 (20.15) & Sun celebrate with this ‘wish list’ 12 Oct (14.15), Concertgebouw, concert. Brüggen has arranged €25-€97.50 a programme that includes his favourite symphonies by ASKO | SCHÖNBERG & THE Stravinsky, Mozart and Chopin. HILLIARD ENSEMBLE Tue 21 Oct, Concertgebouw, This British Hilliard Ensemble, 20.15, €10-€66 along with Asko | Schönberg, the THE CLASSICAL PROMS Dutch contemporary chamber orchestra, performs works by The Bach Choir and the English composer John Casken Orchestra of the Netherlands METROPOLIS 1,000 VOICES SINGING and others. come together with soprano Olga Thur 9 Oct, Muziekgebouw aan ’t Zinovieva and additional guests Director Fritz Lang’s 1927 sci- The Grootkoor Holland rings IJ, 20.15, €10-€28.50 for an evening of music and fi masterpiece remains one in its 25th anniversary with this majesty. The programme includes of the most influential films epic performance. For one LUCA PISARONI & famous works by Handel, Strauss of all time. Metropolis has day only, its ranks will grow WOLFRAM RIEGER Jr and Elgar. inspired countless directors to a breath-taking thousand The Italian bass-baritone is joined Sat 25 Oct, Concertgebouw, and musicians including members. They’ll all pack into by pianist Wolfram Rieger for a 20.15, €50-€75 programme that includes music George Lucas and Lady the Concertgebouw for an CECILIA BARTOLI penned by Franz Schubert, Hugo Gaga. The original version afternoon of music along with Wolf and many others. Italian mezzo-soprano Bartoli was considered lost until a pianist Martin Zonnenberg Fri 10 Oct, Muziekgebouw aan ’t has earned an astounding five copy resurfaced in Buenos (pictured), the Dutch Brass IJ, 20.15, €10-€39.50 Grammys over the course of her Aires a few years ago. Now and several special guests, career. She’ll lend her impressive restored to its former glory filling this stunning concert RADIO PHILHARMONIC vocal chops to this concert led by ORCHESTRA via hard work and modern hall with immaculate vocal conductor Diego Fasolis and the Conductor Markus Stenz leads baroque ensemble I Barocchisti. technology, the film will harmonies. As well as excerpts a programme that includes Sun 26 Oct, Concertgebouw, screen at this concert with from popular musicals and Loevendie’s ‘The Rise of Spinoza’ , 20.15, €61-€162 full accompaniment by operatic arias, classical works a tribute to the troubled 17thconductor Helmut Imig and include Cantique de Jean TRACKS: HALLOWEEN century Dutch philosopher. the Metropole Orchestra Racine (Fauré), Water Music Sat 11 Oct, Concertgebouw, Director Jorinda Kees Maat is – Dutch specialists in live (Handel) and Conquest of 14.15, €49-€56 teaming up with the Ragazze soundtrack performances. Paradise (Vangelis). Quartet for two nights of AMSTERDAM musical tricks and visual treats. Fri 26 Sep, Muziekgebouw Sun 26 Oct, Concertgebouw, SINFONIETTA & GARY Their Halloween shows will aan ’t IJ, 20.15, €20-€25 14.30, €38.25-€45 HOFFMAN include a ghoulish programme Master cellist Hoffman joins the accompanied by the works of MARC ALBRECHT of Serge Rachmaninoff’s Second acclaimed symphony orchestra visual artist Jurjen Alkema. CONDUCTS VIER Piano Concerto, flanked by for works by Sulkhan Tsintsadze, Wed 29 & Thur 30 Oct, LETZTE LIEDER two Scandinavian works: Dmitri Shostakovich and Pyotr Concertgebouw, 21.00, Sibelius’ Pohjola’s Daughter and Ilyich Tchaikovsky. €10-€25 The Netherlands Philharmonic Nielsen’s Symphony No. 4 (‘The Sat 11 Oct Muziekgebouw aan ’t Orchestra performs a tribute Inextinguishable’). IJ, 20.15, €10-€35 to the life and times of Richard ADDRESSES Thur 2 & Fri 3 Oct, Strauss. Along with conductor NEDERLANDS BLAZERS Concertgebouw, 20.15, €25-€87 Muziekgebouw aan ’t IJ Marc Albrecht and acclaimed ENSEMBLE Piet Heinkade 1 soprano Emily Magee, they’ll KELLER QUARTET www.muziekgebouw.nl perform the German composer’s Iranian musician Kayhan Kalhor Time Out New York called Noorderkerk ‘Vier Letzte Lieder’, and two of his is a master of the kamancheh, a the latest recording by small stringed instrument with Noordermarkt 48 other works. this renowned Hungarian a magical sound. He’s joined by www.noorderkerk.org Sat 4 (20.15) & Sun 5 Oct (14.15), quartet ‘a must have’. For this Muziekgebouw aan ’t IJ Concertgebouw, €12.50-€48.50 the Netherlands Wind Ensemble performance, they’ve selected at this concert, which features Piet Heinkade 1 HEAR MY PRAYER works by György Ligeti, Béla spellbinding takes on the www.muziekgebouw.nl Bartók and Samuel Barber. works of Bach. Royal Concertgebouw Conductor Grete Pedersen and Sat 4 Oct, Muziekgebouw aan ’t Sun 12 Oct, Muziekgebouw aan ’t Concertgebouwplein 10 the Norwegian Soloists Choir IJ, 20.15, €10-€35 IJ, 15.00, €10-€19.50 www.concertgebouw.nl lead a night of music and magic.

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A-LIST. PART IV THE A-LIST

CLUBBING CLUBBING

Choice clubbing

INC FESTIVAL A new kid on the festival block, with a mix of house, techno and camp dance music. International highlights in the line-up include Germany’s electro-pop outfit Booka Shade and England’s post-dubstep house producer Audiojack. Also playing are Paul Woodford, Sidney Charles and Miss Melera, among many others. Sat 5 Jul, Zuidas De Boelelaan, www.incfestival.nl. 12.00-23.00 €29.50 CLUB NIGHT WEEKENDER – HOSTED BY MAKAM Especially for the committed clubbers, Trouw opens its doors for a marathon session this weekend. On Saturday, Berghain’s Ryan Elliott and a list of local jocks – including Benny Rodrigues and Boris Werner – play their favourite techno jams. Headlining on Sunday is Moscow’s fashionista-cum-underground electro DJ Nina Kraviz with additional four/four joy coming from Steve Rachmad, Clone Records boss Serge, Awanto 3, William Kouam Djoko and curator Makam. Sat 13 & Sun 14 Sept, Trouw, from 23.00 Saturday, €8-€20

VALTIFEST The theme of this year’s end-of-season Valtifest is Fire, Satan and Hell. Don’t be fooled by the festival’s creepy theme, though: the vibe is all about holding on to summer as long as possible before we enter the ‘less colourful’ season again. Musically, things aren’t so grim either, with Belgian mash-up mavericks 2 Many DJs; Irish electro-purist Space Dimension Controller; Chicago’s house legend Chez Damier; London’s post-bass producer Bok Bok; and Disclosure-style UK garage act Gorgon City headlining. Sat 6 Sept, NDSM-werf, www.valtifest.nl. 13.00-23.00, €45)

count on an eclectic sound typical for Amsterdam. Sat 11 Oct, Canvas, 23.0004.00, €12 CARIBOU Dan Snaith produced ’60s psych-beat-inspired, sample-based dance music under his Manitoba moniker before getting big among the indie and raving crowds with his current project, Caribou. Bangers such as ‘Sun’ and ‘Odessa’ have made so many party-goers happy – from the beaches of Koh Pha Ngan and Ibiza to the muddy fields of Glastonbury and Lowlands – that we’re pretty confident they’ll make you dance too. Sun 12 Oct, Melkweg, 20.00, €20

ADE: DGTL PRESENTS KOMPAKT Thank God the blueprint minimal-techno label Kompakt has survived the demise of the genre: co-founder Michael Mayer brings the top tier of the label tonight: Brazilian wonder child Gui Boratto, Kölsch, Superpitcher, Troels Abrahamsen, Rebolledo and Blond:ish. Sat 18 Oct, Scheepsbouwloods, NDSM-werf, 22.00-07.00, €15 ADE: YORUBA RECORDS Yoruba Records’ main man Osunlade has done just about everything you can in soulful dance music: he’s produced house records for labels such as Strictly Rhythm, and then as a vocalist, pianist, percussionist, bass and guitar player, he’s collaborated with the likes of Roy Ayers, Cape Verdean legend Cesária Évora and Malian singer-songwriter Salif Keita. See him DJ-ing with his mates this eve. Sun 19 Oct, Canvas, 23.0004.00, €15

ADE: TAPE This line-up pretty much equals ice cream for lovers of abstract Detroit house and techno. Expect both dark and happy club music from Funkinevil (London’s Funkineven with Detroit’s Kyle Hall), while Marcellus Pittman of the 3 Chairs PORTER ROBINSON collective likes to serve his house music nice and jazzy and slow. Skrillex-associated producer See page 29. Porter Robinson is the living Thur 16 Oct, Tolhuistuin, proof that big-room EDM can 20.00-23.30, €17.50 be anything but one-dimensional. Indietronica, progressive, ADE: AFROJACK trance, electro house: he effortOne of the most successful lessly mixes all these subgenres EDM producers in the world of into his infectious grooves. JUXTAPOSE chart music will no doubt tear Fri 31 Oct, Melkweg, 19.00, €15 down the walls of this venue in A truly top-notch line-up for Amsterdam’s south-east with those who like their hip hop ADDRESSES lots and lots of climaxes, breaks experimental and psychedeland even singalong moments. ic. Ras G’s live sets are full of Canvas See page 29. slow breaks and chaotic in a Wibautstraat 150 Fri 17 Oct, Heineken Music good way; call it pitched-down www.canvas7.nl Hall, 20.00-23.30, €57.50 breakcore – Venetian Snares in Heineken Music Hall COLORS ADE: THESE GUYS X chilled-out mood, if you will. ArenA Boulevard 590 Pure bliss is what we call this 8BAHN ADE: DAVE CLARKE Free The Robots’ live sets, by www.heineken-music-hall.nl PRESENTS night with one of the most Part of the Amstredam contrast, contain super heavy Melkweg With big line-ups all around drums. Lijnbaansgracht 234A amazing Trouw line-ups to Dance Event, Europe’s town this weekend, it’s hard to Fri 19 Sep, Canvas, 23.00www.melkweg.nl date. NYC’s hippest underbiggest and best clubbing stand out, but Dave Clarke suc04.00, €12 Paradiso ground house-and-beyond party. You can’t get much ceeds. Expect classic and tasty Weteringschans 6-8 label L.I.E.S. delivers label deeper into the underNEXT MONDAY’S HANGOVER club music, including Green Velwww.paradiso.nl CEO Ron Morelli (pictured), ground techno and electro vet’s heavy jackin’ Chicago beats; The evocative title of this night Roest whose view on life is grim, sounds of Detroit and the Stacey Pullen’s second-wave says it all: people come here Czaar Peterstraat 213B but whose beats are fi ne. UK than on this night with Detroit techno; and brutal dry to party. Germany’s Pachanga www.amsterdamroest.nl beats from Mr Clarke himself. Boys and Robagh Wruhme Ruigoord Stompin’ Washington DCDJ Stingray of the mysteriWe’re already dreading the day accommodate the party crowd http://ruigoord.nl based house heads Beautiful ous deep-sea electro collecthat Mr Clarke and the rest of like no others by playing a blend Tolhuistuin Swimmers know how to jack tive Drexciya playing alonghis almost-50 old guard anof druggy, feel-good house and Tolhuisweg 5 and so does East London’s side Holland’s dark techno nounce their retirement… techno. Also playing at this www.tolhuistuin.nl wild child Funkineven. producer A Made Up Sound Fri 17 Oct, Melkweg, 21.30beautiful vintage industrial Trouw All of this happens in the (pictured), the unpredict06.00, €25 location are Some Chemistry, Wibautstraat 127 basement while future bass able Neil Landstrumm and Tennis, Avatism (live) and Wevwww.trouwamsterdam.nl ADE: WARP X LUCKY ME al (live). Ziggo Dome heads Bok Bok and L-vis fellow Brit Alex Smoke with 1 Two cutting-edge electronic Sat 20 Sept, Roest, 20.00ArenA AMAG_PRINT.pdf Boulevard 61 1990 headline upstairs. his weird melodies. Sat 18 labels team up for a showcase 06.00, €17.50 www.ziggodome.nl O.M.G. Fri 12 Sep, Trouw, Oct, Rhone Warehouse, with a line-up that includes 23.00, €20 21.30-06.00, €20 advert DOOR futuristic producer Rustie, London’s poppy electronic duo There’s never a bad night at this FILM / MUSIC / ART and Theo Parrish, Mr Pittman corny DJs such as Avicii collabMount Kimbie, trap/footwork hippy village in Amsterdam’s plays an earthy mix of disco, orator Nicky Romero, Showtek maestro Lunice, BBC1’s topCjock North Sea harbour. Dance BRETON house and techno. Support and Chuckie. Benji B and Holland’s talented around the church till sunrise M comes from Creem Peoples. Sat 4 Oct, Ziggo Dome, 22.00- young beat producer Jameszoo. with your dreadlocked fellow Sat 27 Sep, Canvas, 23.0007.00, €52.50 See page 29. ravers to the minimal techno 04.00, €12 Fri 17 Oct, Paradiso, 23.00beats of DJs Alchemist, Iori, Y 10 YEARS DOPENESS GALORE 05.00, €20 Miss Fuzzy, Mixso Curls and ID&T PRESENTS HEINEKEN Amsterdam’s Dopeness Galore Scalameriya. CM STARCLUB ADE: DOCKYARD records has released an incrediSat 20 Sep, Ruigoord, http:// ruigoord.nl. 23.00-08.00, €18 Especially for big rooms like this bly varied bunch of records since Everything is classic aboutMYthis one, EDM producers started they started out in 2004: boogie daytime event: the industrial loLIGHT HOUSE making music that sounds rebeats by Australian producer cation, the massive line-upCY(inally good in large spaces. It’s a Inkswell and bass-heavy beats cluding DJ Rush, Joey Beltram, The least well-known and perfect personification of David by local artist Kid Sublime as Gayle San and The Advent) and youngest member of the 3 westival-amsterdam.com CMY Byrne’s theory in his book, How well as reissues by jazz legends even the modest cover charge Chairs collective has been re12 14 SEPT Music Works, that musicians such as Pharoah Sanders and reminds us of the 1990s. sponsible for releasing a vast K adapt their music to the enviChet Baker. The line-up for See page 29. amount of slow and jazzy club MERCATORPLEIN jams over the past 15 years or so. ronment they’re performing in. tonight hadn’t been announced Sat 18 Oct, NDSM-werf, 11.00The line-up includes slightly when we went to press, but 23.00, €15 Like his mates Kenny Dixon Jr

7/30/14

sep & oct 2014

EXHIBITIONS & MUSEUMS TEMPORARY EXHIBITIONS THE ATLASES Back in the 17th century, Dutch cartographers were considered the finest in all of Europe. Now some of their groundbreaking maps are set to appear in this unique long-running exhibition. Scheepvaartmuseum, ongoing VAN GOGH: THE ULTIMATE COLLECTION Following the success Van Gogh: My Dream in 2013, a new and improved version of the exhibition returns to once again re-create 200 of Van Gogh’s seminal works. Seven 3D animations of some of the artist’s most famous works reveal the hidden dimensions of these paintings, animating suggested movements and exposing hidden details. Beurs van Berlage, closing date TBC EXPEDITION SILK ROAD Major exhibition providing a glimpse into the long-lost civilisations that flourished along the legendary Silk Road, featuring

ANOEK STEKETEE & EEFJE BLANKEVOORT – LOVE RADIO This trans-media documentary project sees photographer Anoek Steketee and journalist and filmmaker Eefje Blankevoort examine the complex process of reconciliation and forgiveness following the Rwandan genocide. Foam, until 7 Sep DON’T STOP NOW: FASHION PHOTOGRAPHY NEXT Dynamic and varied group exhibition showcasing work by a new guard of young, international photographers working for magazines such as Dazed & Confused and AnOther Magazine. Foam, until 7 Sep GUIDO GUIDI: VERAMENTE Renowned as a pioneer of new Italian landscape photography, Guidi’s works are characterised by an astonishingly strong and poetic power. This is the first ever retrospective of the influential Italian photographer’s work, featuring his experimental blackand-white photos from the 1970s alongside the later, more famous colour series. Huis Marseille, until 7 Sep

MAN FROM ARLES, 1951-1952

Choice exhibits

THE WORLD OF VAN GOGH: PHOTOGRAPHS BY EMMY ANDRIESSE The Van Gogh Museum celebrates the centenary of the birth of acclaimed Dutch photographer Emmy Andriesse with an exhibition dedicated to her work. Shortly before her death in 1953, Andriesse created a photo series entitled The World of Van Gogh – a project that saw her travel to Provence and Auverssur-Oise to photograph the same landscapes and buildings Van Gogh captured in his paintings and drawings some 60 years earlier. The photographs are displayed alongside images of the Van Gogh works that Andriesse was emulating. Van Gogh Museum, until 5 Oct 250 exceptional objects drawn from the St Petersburg museum’s collection including murals, Buddhas, precious silks, silver, glass, gold and terracotta. Hermitage Amsterdam, until 5 Sep

work by De Maar, the latter drawn from the museum’s own collection. Huis Marseille, until 7 Sep TACO ANEMA: IN CONFERENCE Subtitled ‘Portraits of Dutch Administrative Boards’, this photography exhibition examines a peculiarly Dutch phenomenon of groups of people working voluntarily in associations to address concerns in which they feel the government is either inactive or ineffective. Huis Marseille, until 7 Sep LARRY CLARK, TULSA & TEENAGE LUST Two celebrated but also controversial projects by photographer and filmmaker Larry Clarke. Tulsa (1971) and Teenage Lust (1983) are based on Clark’s first publications, which explored his fascination for youth culture. Foam, until 12 Sep AMSTERDAM! BY ED VAN DER ELSKEN With images shot between 1947 and 1980 by Amsterdam’s first street photographer, this exhibition provides an enthralling snapshot of a lively period of Dutch history. See pages 10-15. Amsterdam City Archives, until 14 Sep SPOTLIGHT – 5 YEARS OF TALENT Showcasing the portfolios of more than 60 photographers featured in the past five years of Foam Magazine’s ‘talent issues’. Foam, until 30 Sep

the Dutch National Opera until this year. Stedelijk Museum, until 19 Oct THE ART OF THE BRICK Named by CNN as one of the world’s ten must-see exhibitions, this expo features more than 70 astounding LEGO® structures built from in excess of a million little bricks. Amsterdam EXPO, until 26 Oct

FOOTBALL HALLELUYAH! Family exhibition delving into footballing heroes, rituals, faith and superstition, exploring the quasi-religious role of the game in today’s society and showcasing a selection of images and objects, advert 26 - 30 aug 4, 18 sep

surtitled in english

PRIDE PHOTO AWARD Exhibition showcasing the results of the annual international photography competition focused on sexual and gender diversity. The winner of this year’s contest is Parisa Taghizadeh with her series Boy, about her five-year-old son’s fascination for colourful, pretty, ‘girly’ things like nail polish, necklaces and masks. Oude Kerk, until 26 Oct VII BY CÉCILE DE JAEGHER Handcrafted by Belgian designer Cécile de Jaegher, the clutches and evening bags in this exhibition take fascinating forms including birds, butterflies and exotic fruit. Museum of Bags & Purses, until 2 Nov PRET OP STAND (UPPERCLASS ENTERTAINMENT) This canal-side museum puts its stately-home surroundings to ideal use with an exhibition of olden-time entertainments of the upper classes. Geelvinck Hinlopen Huis, until 13 Jan 2015

ON THE MOVE Subtitled ‘Storytelling in ConBRILLIANTLY DRAWN: temporary Photography and PORTRAITS BY JOHANNES Graphic Design’, this exhibition THOPAS focuses on recent developments Born deaf and dumb, Dutch in photography and reveals the artist Johannes Thopas is one numerous ways in which artists of the few 17th-century artists and photographers build their DAVID CRONENBERG – to have specialised in drawn narratives in dialogue with graphportraits. This exhibition feaic designers. See pages 10-15. THE EXHIBITION tures almost 40 of his drawings Stedelijk Museum, until 18 A major exhibition (more than half of his remaining Jan 2015 focusing on acclaimed oeuvre), on loan from various Canadian director David MARLENE DUMAS – THE Dutch and international Cronenberg, responsible IMAGE AS BURDEN collections. for classics including The Rembrandthuis, until 5 Oct Large-scale retrospective of work by the South-African-born, AmFly, Naked Lunch, Crash, CALDER AT THE sterdam-based painter Marlene eXistenZ and A History of RIJKSMUSEUM Dumas – widely considered to Violence. The exhibition The second in a series of annual be one of the most significant explores Cronenberg’s international sculpture displays and influential painters working work (and world) through presented in the Rijksmuseum’s today. See page 18. the main theme of his gardens sees 14 monumental Stedelijk Museum, 6 Sep-4 films: the often disturbing sculptures by American artist Jan 2015 Alexander Calder take up resiphysical and psychological DINING WITH THE TSARS dence in the museum’s free ‘outtransformation of his door gallery’. The Hermitage Amsterdam celprotagonists. Among the Rijksmuseum, until 5 Oct ebrates its fifth anniversary with highlights of the exhibition a lavish exhibition showcasing are fantastical special MASTERS OF PHOTOGRAPHY olden-times dinner-table glories effects items from the – ICONS OF NATIONAL from the court of the Tsars. GEOGRAPHIC cult director’s films and See page 19. The Tropenmuseum presents a Hermitage Amsterdam, typically bizarre props, selection from the many photo6 Sep-1 Mar 2015. set photos and original graphs that rose to fame and, in costumes. MASTERPIECES FROM THE some cases, to iconic status, after EYE Filmmuseum, HOWARD GREENBERG being published in the National until 14 Sep COLLECTION Geographic, including Steve McCurry’s ‘Afghan Girl’. Following great success in LauTropenmuseum, until 19 Oct sanne, Paris and Budapest, this & MARTIN ROEMERS / FRANS photography exhibition comes to OPERA AT THE STEDELIJK: BEERENS / MARRIGJE DE Amsterdam, showcasing approxLEX REITSMA + EIKO ISHIOKA imately 150 photos from the priMAAR Showcasing the work of graphic vate collection of New York-based Triple exhibition featuring two designer Lex Reitsma and cosgallery owner Howard Greenberg. photographic projects (Roemers’ tume designer Eiko Ishioka, both Jewish Historical Museum, Metropolis and Beerens’ With of whom played pivotal roles in 11 Sep-11 Jan 2015 the Passage of Time) alongside

toneelgroepamsterdam.nl such as Marco van Basten’s football boots. Amsterdam Museum, from 12 Sep DANIEL GORDON Daniel Gordon’s colourful photographs draw from classic art forms such as still life and portraiture. Foam, 12 Sep-2 Nov JH ENGSTRÖM – CLOSE SURROUNDING Engström’s photographs aim to expose the loneliness and the absurdity of the human condition – yet the photographer consistently seeks a meaningful communication with the viewer, expressing his doubts about the possibility of a real understanding of the condition. Foam, 12 Sep-10 Dec THE HIDDEN PICTURE A selection of works from the ING bank’s international art collection is brought together for the first time. See page 63. Cobra Museum of Modern Art, 12 Sep-4 Jan 2015 THE MARSEILLAISE(S) – FIFTEEN YEARS OF COLLECTING Huis Marseille invites five photographers, who it has closely collaborated with in the past, to each curate their own gallery – filling it with their own work as well as with pieces from the museum’s extensive collection. See pages 10-15. Huis Marseille, 13 Sep-7 Dec SOULMADE. JASPER KRABBÉ MEETS THE TROPENMUSEUM Dutch artist Jasper Krabbé has been given free rein to rummage around the Tropenmuseum archives to pick out objects and art for his personal exhibition. The result is a very personal interpretation of the museum’s inner life. Tropenmuseum, 13 Sep-25 Jan 2015 FOREVER VINTAGE Sure to appeal to fashion historians and Downton Abbey fans alike, this exhibition showcases vintage pieces dating from the

PART IV THE A-LIST.

EXHIBITIONS & MUSEUMS LEIDEN CELEBRATES! HIGHMUSEUM VAN LOON ROYAL PALACE years between 1920 and 1994 Prinsengracht 263-267 LIGHTS FROM AN ACADEMIC alongside ‘retro’ bags that were The Van Loons belonged to The Koninklijk Paleis (Royal www.annefrank.org COLLECTION inspired by these classics in terms the city’s governing elite, and Palace) on Amsterdam’s Dam de Appel arts centre of shape, colours and materials. A selection of 75 17th-century were among the founders of the Square is one of three palaces still Prins Hendrikkade 142 Museum of Bags & Purses, drawings drawn from the rich mighty Dutch East India Comin use by the Dutch royal family. www.deappel.nl 15 Sep-1 Mar 2015 collection of Leiden University. pany back in 1602. With much It is used for state visits, award Museum of Bags & Purses Rembrandthuis, 18 Oct-1 of its original interior intact, the ceremonies and other official reHerengracht 573 UNDER CONSTRUCTION – Feb 2015 collection comprises paintings, ceptions. When the palace is not www.tassenmuseum.nl NEW POSITIONS IN antique furnishings and being used by the royal family, it Biblical Museum AMERICAN ART MAGICAL AFRICA – MASKS objects d’art. is open to the public. Visitors can Herengracht 366-368 AND SCULPTURES FROM THE Group exhibition of work by explore the magnificent interior www.bijbelsmuseum.nl IVORY COAST. THE ARTISTS ONS’ LIEVE HEER OP SOLDER young North American phoand discover the rich history of Body Worlds REVEALED (OUR LORD IN THE ATTIC) tographers who share a common the building. Damrak 66, http://bodyworlds.nl approach to their art, with the Major international exhibition This clandestine church in a De Brakke Grond STEDELIJK MUSEUM creative process itself the inspifeaturing more than 200 en17th-century canal house attic Nes 45, www.brakkegrond.nl ration or even the subject. See chanting and mysterious art dates back to the Reformation, The museum’s permanent colCobra Museum pages 10-15. objects from the Ivory Coast, when Catholics were not perlection is now on display in the Sandbergplein 1, Amstelveen Foam, 17 Sep-10 Dec including some world-famous mitted to practice their faith in beautifully restored historical www.cobra-museum.nl masks and sculptures. public. Today, it’s one of the city’s building, with fixed spots for Dutch Press Museum HOW FAR HOW NEAR De Nieuwe Kerk, 25 Oct-15 most unique attractions in the highlights such as ‘The Beanery’ Zeeburgerkade 10 Exhibition exploring the ambiguFeb 2015 heart of the Red Light District. by Edward Kienholz and works http://persmuseum.nl ous relationship that the Stedelijk Dutch Resistance Museum has had with much non-Western Plantage Kerklaan 61 art. Although Amsterdam’s www.verzetsmuseum.org PERMANENT Stedelijk has built up a reputaEYE Filmmuseum EXHIBITIONS tion as a distinguished museum IJpromenade 1, www.eyefilm.nl for international contemporary Foam ANNE FRANK HOUSE art ever since WWII, artistic Keizersgracht 609 developments emerging in large Prinsengracht 263 is where Anne http://foam.org parts of the world have largely Geelvinck Hinlopen House Frank lived in hiding with her been ignored, according to the Keizersgracht 633 family for more than two years museum. How Far How Near http://geelvinck.nl during World War II. Now conexplores the background and rea- verted into a museum, it contains Van Gogh Museum sons underlying this paradox and a sobering exhibition about the Paulus Potterstraat 7 includes paintings, photography, persecution of the Jews and perwww.vangoghmuseum.nl video and archive documents. Het Grachtenhuis secution in a wider context. Stedelijk Museum, 19 Sep-1 (Museum of the Canals) BODY WORLDS Feb 2015 Herengracht 386 http://hetgrachtenhuis.nl After captivating visitors the TRACES – 100 YEARS Hermitage Amsterdam world over, the oft-controversial ASGER JORN Amstel 51, www.hermitage.nl exhibition of human specimens Marking the 100th anniversary including whole-body plastinates, Hollandse Schouwburg of the birth of Asger Jorn (1914- organs and translucent body slicPlantage Middenlaan 24 1973), one of the founders of Co- es takes up permanent residence www.hollandscheschouwburg.nl bra (1948-1951), the International in central Amsterdam. Featuring Hortus Botanicus BAD THOUGHTS – COLLECTION MARTIJN AND Situationists (1957-1972) and Plantage Middenlaan 2a an extensive selection of authenother groups. http://dehortus.nl tic human specimens, the emJEANNETTE SANDERS Cobra Museum of Modern Art, Houseboat Museum phasis of this exhibition is on the Featuring a diverse range of works by, among others, David 28 Sep-18 Jan 2015 Prinsengracht 296 K various aspects of life and love. Claerbout, Gilbert & George, Anton Henning, Anselm www.houseboatmuseum.nl Kiefer and Cindy Sherman, the Sanders Collection is one of BREITNER SKETCHES EYE FILM MUSEUM Huis Marseille the most important private collection in the Netherlands. AMSTERDAM Keizersgracht 401 Cinematography museum home Derived from a photographic work by Gilbert & George, the Countless sketches by the Dutch www.huismarseille.nl to an internationally renowned painter George Hendrik Breitner Imagine IC collection of films covering the title of the exhibition alludes to the Sanders’ quest to collect (1857-1923) have been digitalised Frankemaheerd 2 whole history of cinema, from art and their interest in the darker side of the human psyche. and are now displayed alongside the first silent movies to the latest www.imagineic.nl Stedelijk Museum, until 9 Nov a selection of his paintings and Jewish Historical Museum contemporary productions. watercolours. by Willem de Kooning and Andy Nieuwe Amstelstraat 1 REMBRANDTHUIS GEELVINCK HINLOPEN HOUSE Amsterdam City Archives, Warhol. Half of the ground floor www.jhm.nl 10 Oct-1 Feb 2015 The house that Rembrandt is reserved for the best pieces Museum Van Loon A decadent canal-side mansion called home for nearly 20 years from the design collection. Keizersgracht 672 showcasing 17th-century patriSELAMAT SJABBAT www.museumvanloon.nl cian wealth, located on the Gold- boasts an impressive collection TROPENMUSEUM An exhibition dedicated to the of drawings and paintings by Mediamatic Fabriek en Bend of the grandest canal of oft-hidden history of Jews in the the Old Master himself as well The ‘Museum of the Tropics’ VOC-kade 10 all, the Herengracht. Highlights former Dutch colonies, drawinclude ornamental gardens as as by his contemporaries. The has eight geographically themed www.mediamatic.net ing on a wealth of documents, well as sumptuous themed salons. Rembrandthuis is also home to permanent exhibitions and an De Nieuwe Kerk objects, interviews, photos, his290 of Rembrandt’s etchings – a ongoing series of temporary pres- Dam square, www.nieuwekerk.nl HET GRACHTENHUIS torical film fragments and ‘home near complete collection – and entations, including both modern Ons’ Lieve Heer Op Solder (MUSEUM OF THE CANALS) movies’ to give an overview of an alternating selection is on and traditional visual arts and (Our Lord in the Attic) Jewish life from colonial times A tribute to the Canal District, permanent display. photographic work. Oudezijds Voorburgwal 40 until today. with multimedia exhibitits showwww.opsolder.nl RIJKSMUSEUM WILLET-HOLTHUYSEN Jewish Historical Museum, ing how the engineering marvel Rembrandthuis MUSEUM 13 Oct-8 Mar 2015 was built on swampland during After a decade of unprecedented Jodenbreestraat 4 the 17th-century expansion. renovation, the Rijksmuseum The only completely period furwww.rembrandthuis.nl ADRIAAN DE LELIE AND finally showed off its new (and nished canal-side house in AmRijksmuseum THE 18TH-CENTURY FAMILY HORTUS BOTANICUS old) look in April 2013. Visit the sterdam open daily to the public, Jan Luijkenstraat 1 PORTRAIT For nearly four centuries, Amstate museum and embark on a with a remarkable collection of www.rijksmuseum.nl Billed as the largest-ever sterdam’s Hortus Botanicus has journey through Dutch art and Golden Age art and silverware. Royal Palace Amsterdam exhibition dedicated to the regaled visitors with its lush history from the Middle Ages and Dam square ADDRESSES renowned 18th- and 19thgreenhouses and exotic plants. Renaissance right up until the www.paleisamsterdam.nl century painter, most of the Originally founded in 1638 to 20th century A not-to-be-missed Allard Pierson Museum Het Scheepvaartmuseum works by De Lelie on display are serve as a herb garden for the experience. Oude Turfmarkt 127 (National Maritime Musuem) drawn from private collections city’s doctors and pharmacists, www.allardpiersonmuseum.nl Kattenburgerplein 1 HET SCHEEPVAART and have therefore not been it’s one of the oldest botanical Amsterdam City Archives www.hetscheepvaartmuseum.nl MUSEUM (NATIONAL accessible to the public for gardens in the world. Vijzelstraat 32 Stedelijk Museum MARITIME MUSEUM) many years. In addition to De http://stadsarchief.amsterdam.nl Museumplein 10 HOUSEBOAT MUSEUM Lelie’s paintings, the exhibition The National Maritime MuAmsterdam Expo http://stedelijk.nl showcases family portraits by Located in the Hendrika Maria, seum comprises a series of small Gustav Mahlerlaan 24 Tropenmuseum well-known contemporaries of a former freighter moored on exhibitions exploring various elwww.amsterdamexpo.nl Linnaeusstraat 2 De Lelie including Tischbein, the Prinsengracht,the Houseements of maritime life. Moored Amsterdam Museum www.tropenmuseum.nl Regters, Laquy and Quinkhard. boat Museum gives fun insight outside is the Amsterdam, an Kalverstraat 92 Willet-Holthuysen Museum Museum van Loon, 17 Oct-19 into life on Amsterdam’s canals exact replica of a famous Dutch http://amsterdammuseum.nl Herengracht 605 Jan 2015 – a uniquely Dutch way of life. East India Company ship. Anne Frank House www.willetholthuysen.nl MARTIN KIPPERBURGER

Choice exhibits

in September

Cello & Film

Live cello music, performances, film premières and special guests Anner Bijlsma and Ernst Reijseger. 16 t/m 21 september; eyefilm.nl/cello

The Hitchcock Touch

A major retrospective including all his greatest classics. 24 July to 12 October 2014

David Cronenberg The Exhibition

Major exhibition and film programme. Last weeks – until 14 September 2014

Cinema Concert silent ﬁlms with live music Info & tickets: www.eyeﬁlm.nl

7 September - The Pleasure Garden (1925, Alfred Hitchcock) 14 September – Blackmail (1929, Alfred Hitchcock) 21 September – Die Teufelskirche (1919, Hans Mierendorff )

EYE_AD_AMAG_09-2013.indd 1

31-07-14 11:59

“EXTRAORDINARY PLAY BRINGS ANNE FRANK’S SECRET WORLD TO LIFE.” - CNN.Com -

WITH MULTILINGUAL TRANSLATION SYSTEM

THEATERAMSTERDAM.COM In association with and at the initiative of the Anne Frank Fonds Basel founded by Otto Frank

PART IV THE A-LIST

STAGE THEATRE, DANCE & COMEDY

selected by a jury of acclaimed Dutch theatre experts, plus numerous other theatrical highlights around the city. Unsurprisingly, performances are in Dutch but selected programmes are also presented with English surtitles. Thur 4-Sun 15 Sep, various locations, times and prices

Choice theatre

BOOKS: AYN RAND, THE FOUNTAINHEAD The John Adams Institute presents an evening – in collaboration with Toneelgroep AmTHEATRE: THE sterdam – about one of America’s FOUNTAINHEAD most controversial political thinkers and her impact on soci- Toneelgroep Amsterdam tackles ety and politics. The programme Ayn Rand’s bestseller, a dramatic story of the breath-taking feud includes talks by James Kennedy between the young and briland Floor Rusman, an interview liant architect Howard Roark, with TGA dramaturgist Peter who pursues his ideals without van Kraaij, readings by TGA actors Aus Greidanus Jr and Bart compromise, and his rival Peter BACK TO BACH Slegers and fragments from the Keating, a man who opts for commercial success and social status. 1949 film by King Vidor. The music of Johann Sebastian Bach has inspired countless Performances are in Dutch, but Mon 1 Sep, Felix & Foam, Keiztheatrical and dance productions over the centuries – alalso with English surtitles on ersgracht 324, 20.00, €16.27 though he never directly created music for the medium, he this date. did incorporate many dance forms into his suites: Sarabande, OPERA: GURRE-LIEDER Thur 4 & 18 Sep, StadsschouwAllemande, Gavotte, Menuet and even a Polonaise. For this burg, 19.30, €20-€32.50 The Dutch National Opera opens production, master choreographer Hans van Manen and his its 2014/’15 season with a theatriTHEATRE: HAMLET VS cal adaptation of this bittersweet contemporaries Krzysztof Pastor, David Dawson and Ernst HAMLET masterpiece penned by composer Meisner will debut a series of tributes to the legendary GerAn interesting character study, Arnold Schönberg. It tells the tale man composer, proving once and for all that ‘Bach swings’. Hamlet vs Hamlet digs into the of a doomed love affair that has Sat 11-Sun 19 Oct, Dutch National Opera & Ballet, various psyche of the adolescent mind of since become the stuff of legend times, €15-€53 one of Shakespeare’s most famous in Denmark. characters. Like the original, the Tue 2-23 Sep, Dutch National title character is riddled with Opera & Ballet, various times, self-doubt and over-confidence, €15-€138 producing a tormented character THEATRE: NT LIVE: MEDEA with a desire for purity. PerforArt-deco cinema Pathé Tuschin- mances are in Dutch but you can catch special English surtitled ski presents a live, HD screenperformances of this collaboraings of Helen McCrory in the tion between director Guy Cassititle role of Euripides’ tragedy, ers and writer Tom Lanoye. in a new version by Ben Power, Sun 7 Sep & Thur 2 Oct, Stadsdirected by Carrie Cracknell. Thur 4 Sep, Pathé Tuschinski, schouwburg, 20.00, €20-€32.50 20.00, €12.50 BOOKS: AMY TAN PERFORMANCE: AMSTERThe John Adams Institute preORFEO REGINALD D HUNTER DAM FRINGE FESTIVAL sents American author Amy Tan. Renowned choreographer Originally from Georgia, Since her 1989 debut, The Joy Staging a huge array of proSasha Waltz, who has USA, Hunter is now based Luck Club, Tan’s novels have all ductions by cutting-edge in recent years enjoyed in the UK, where he is an been New York Times bestsellers home-grown and international widespread success with acclaimed stand-up and and the recipient of numerous producers and artists at over awards. Her new novel, The 25 locations across the city, the her crossovers between regular guest on a host of Amsterdam Fringe Festival turns Valley of Amazement, is told from opera and ballet, leads panel shows, including Have the entire city into a stage. From the point of view of a part-Amerithis staging of Claudio I Got News for You and theatres to clubs, the streets and can girl raised among the courteMonteverdi’s L’Orfeo. The QI. Although occasionally even living rooms, the eccentric- sans of Shanghai in the first years Greek melodrama follows controversial – the tour is ity that is the Fringe comes alive of the 20th century. This evening the trials and tribulations of called ‘Reginald D Hunter in bizarre, brooding and brilliant she reads from the book and disthe legendary Orpheus as In Europe: A Nigga Runs cusses her career. productions including live art, Wed 10 Sep, De Duif, Prinsentheatre, musical theatre, comedy he attempts to rescue his Through It’, after all – his gracht 756, 20.00, €20.27 and dance. See page 22. lady love from the perils of laid-back delivery and good Thur 4-Sun 14 Sep, various locathe underworld. Wed 3, Fri 5 nature always make for a THEATRE: THE DAHMER tions, times and prices & Sat 6 Sep, Dutch National memorable show. SYNDROME Opera & Ballet, 20.00, Tue 23 Sep, Boom Chicago, THEATRE: DUTCH THEATER He remains one of America’s €15-€171 20.30, €20-€35 FESTIVAL 2014 most famous, serial killers. With This annual celebration of Dutch this production, director Øystein THEATRE: YOUNG VIC: A Johansen and his dedicated cast performances culminating with theatre presents the best perdissect the madness that turned a party afterwards. Judging from STREETCAR NAMED DESIRE formances of season 2013/’14, the unassuming Jeffrey Dahmer the glamour, style and amazing The fastest-selling production advert into a monster. talent showcased in previous in the history of the Young Vic, Wed 10-Sat 13 Sep, Frascati annual editions, you won’t leave Tennessee Williams’ timeless 7 sep, 2 oct surtitled in Theater, various times, €11 disappointed. masterpiece will be broadcast live english Sat 13 Sep, Dutch National Opfrom their home in London. DANCE: SAMADHI DANCE era & Ballet, 20.15, €59-€109 Tue 16 Sep, 20.00, Pathé TusCOMPANY chinski, €12.50 DANCE: SWAN LAKE A wide array of styles, disciCOMEDY: AMSTERDAM plines and cultures coalesce into It’s been called the ‘ballet of all ENGLISH COMEDY NIGHTS something magical at this dance ballets’, and not without good performance arranged by guest reason. With its pure romantiThis monthly feature presented choreographer Ederson cism, classic theme of good vs by the Boom Chicago crew brings Rodrigues Xavier. evil, and Tchaikovsky’s timeless the best international stand-up Fri 12 Sep, Meervaart, 20.15, compositions, Swan Lake epitcomics to the city. Each show will €20-€25 omises the genre. Here Het Nainclude four or five sets and be tionale Ballet revisits the fantastic entirely in English. September DANCE: GALA choreographic interpretation by is headlined by Benny Boot The full details of this oneRudi van Dantzig, their former (Australia) and Zeid Andersson night-only extravaganza reartistic director. (Swe); October is a special with main a mystery. However, the Sun 14-Sun 28 Sep, Dutch Phil Nichol (Canada). organisers are promising an National Opera & Ballet, Fri 19 Sep & 24 Oct, Boom toneelgroepamsterdam.nl evening of intoxicating dance various times, €15-€90 Chicago, 22.30, €12-€15

DANCE: THE BLACK PIECE Flemish choreographer Ann van den Broek examines the taboos surrounding the word ‘black’ in this experimental performance. She’s joined by musicians Arne van Dongen and Dez Mona, in addition to a cameraman and a group of dancers. Tue 23 Sep, Stadsschouwburg, 20.30, €10-€35 COMEDY: DA BOUNCE COMEDY NIGHTS The renowned Da Bounce Comedy Nights crew sets up for another night of raucous laughs in Amsterdam. Each session invites a handful of comics from the US and UK, plus special Dutch guests and MCs. Sat 27 Sep, Meervaart, 20.30, €25 DANCE: EMERGENCY PLAN Portuguese dancer Rita Vilhena shines a light on Brazilian culture and traditions while breaking the fourth wall between the stage and her audience. Tue 30 Sep & Wed 1 Oct, Frascati Theater, 21.00, €11.50-€15 DANCE: VADER Despite its title, this surreal dance performance shares very little in common with the Star Wars movies (‘vader’ means ‘father’ in Dutch). Instead, Vader takes an unblinking look at themes ranging from ageing and memory to regret and fantasy. Wed 1 & Thur 2 Oct, Stadsschouwburg, 20.30, €10-€40 OPERA: SWEENEY TODD It’s everybody’s favourite opera about a revenge-crazed barber hell-bent on turning his adversaries into meat pies. Director Tim Burton tried to do it justice with his 2007 film adaptation but was thwarted by Johnny Depp’s limited singing abilities. Come see what happens when classically-trained duo Dale Duesing and Nina Lejderman take a blood-soaked trip on down to Fleet Street. Fri 3 & Sat 4 Oct, Royal Theatre Carré, 20.00, €15-€70 OPERA: L’ÉTOILE This darkly humoured opera was written by French composer Emmanuel Chabrier back in 1877. Hijinks ensue when a temperamental king’s life and legacy come under attack by a devious politician and a cantankerous beggar. Sat 4-Sun 26 Oct, Dutch National Opera & Ballet, various times, €15-€138 OPERA: MACBETH Art-deco cinema Pathé Tuschinski presents a series of live, HD screenings of works by the Metropolitan Opera. For the first time at the Met, soprano Anna Netrebko gives a heartbreaking portrayal of Lady Macbeth, the insane murderous wife of Macbeth, played by Željko Lucic. The other main roles in Adrian Noble’s chilling production of Verdi’s Shakespearean tragedy include Joseph Calleja as Macduff and René Pape as Banquo. Sat 11 Oct (19.00) & Sat 26 Oct, (11.00), Pathé Tuschinski, various prices

sep & oct 2014

SPORTS DANCE: ONE MAN WITHOUT A CAUSE Dancers Emio Greco and Pieter C Scholten front this multimedia production inspired by advert 9, 10 sep

surtitled in english

LONG DAY’S JOURNEY INTO NIGHT

Nederlands Dans Theater in tow, he’s turning his attention to the infamously drowsy princess. Sat 18 & Sun 19 Oct, Royal Theatre Carré, various times, €18-€42 COMEDY: TODD BARRY He’s often regarded as a comic’s comic, but this deadpan American is continually gaining public attention. TV fans will recognise him from Flight of the Conchords, Spin City and as voices for some of the best animated comedy shows of recent years. Onstage he’s renowned for his smart, caustic and occasionally absurdist view of the world. Mon 20 Oct, Boom Chicago, 20.00, €20-€35

COMEDY: WHITNEY CUMMINGS This fiery comedian has been one of the funniest recurring cast toneelgroepamsterdam.nl members of Comedy Central’s ‘Roasts’, lambasting the likes of Donald Trump, David Hasselhoff The Stranger. Much like the and Joan Rivers. In her new famous novel penned by Albert show, Cummings shares brutally Camus, the show explores the boundaries of existentialism and honest insights about love and relationships, covering everything personal loss. from what real orgasms look like Sun 12 & Mon 13 Oct, Stadsschouwburg, 20.00, €15-€32.50 to her frustration at men calling women ‘crazy’. COMEDY: JACK DEE Tue 21 Oct, Boom Chicago, 20.30, €17.50-€30 This British comic has enjoyed an impressive stand-up (and DANCE: ICONS acting career) over the past Scapino Ballet Rotterdam showthree decades, specialising in cases works inspired by icons, dry, downbeat humour reflected including Ed Wubbe’s Nico. The through this own experiences. turbulent life and times of Nico Notable TV roles include his continue to fascinate her fans recurring appearances in surreal quiz show Shooting Stars and his and music historians. This dance production honours the German own sitcom Lead Balloon, plus model and singer who, along his ongoing work on the Live at with The Velvet Underground, the Apollo series. helped create some of most amTue 14 Oct, Meervaart, 20.15, bitious rock tunes of the 1960s. €27.50-€30 Sat 25 & Sun 26 Oct, StadsCOMEDY: PAM ANN schouwburg, 20.30, €10-€37.50 This snarky stewardess is the ADDRESSES alter-ego of Australian comedian Boom Chicago Caroline Reid. Madonna is a fan Rozentheater and once described her as ‘cruelly Rozengracht 117 funny’. Join Pam Ann as she takes 020 423 0101 her ‘passengers’ on a hilarious, www.boomchicago.nl sky-high adventure with Plane Dutch National Opera & Ballet Filthy, her latest one-woman Amstel 3 show. See page 23. 020 625 5455 Tue 14 Oct, De La Mar Theater, www.operaballet.nl 20.00, €26-€41 DeLaMar Theater PERFORMANCE: RECOVERY Marnixstraat 404 0900 3352627 This production derives its inhttp://delamar.nl spiration from both an album by Frascati American rapper Eminem and a Nes 63 real-life accident. The stage be020 626 6866 comes a boxing ring where trauwww.theaterfrascati.nl ma transitions into healing and The John Adams Institute the characters are each offered a West-Indisch Huis shot at a new beginning. Herenmarkt 97 Thur 16-Sat 18 Oct, Frascati 020 624 7280 Theater, 20.30, €11.50-€15 www.john-adams.nl OPERA: LE NOZZE DI FIGARO Meervaart Meer en Vaart 300 Art-deco cinema Pathé Tuschin020 410 7777 ski presents a series of live, HD www.meervaart.nl screenings of works by the MetPathé Tuschinski ropolitan Opera. Chief conductor Reguliersbreestraat 26-34 James Levine conducts Mozart’s www.pathe.nl masterpiece in a sparkling new Royal Theater Carré production by Richard Eyre. Amstel 115/125 Sat 18 Oct, Pathé Tuschinski, 0900 2525255 19.00, €32.50 https://carre.nl DANCE: SLEEPING BEAUTY Stadsschouwburg Leidseplein 26 Swedish choreographer Mats Ek 020 624 2311 has a penchant for modernising www.stadsschouwburgclassical fairy tales by giving them amsterdam.nl a sinister edge. Now, with the

EVENTS FRIDAY NIGHT SKATE Get your skates on for the weekly Friday Night Skate, an institution in Amsterdam! Departing from the Vondelpark, the skating routes take in all areas of the city, allowing you to skate in places where you wouldn’t on your own. Every Friday, Vondelpark Pavilion, www.fridaynight skate.com. 20.30, free AMSTERDAM CITY SWIM The canal cruise boats and pedaloes make way for more than 1,600 brave swimmers as the Amsterdam City Swim comes to town. See page 19. Sun 7 Sep, city centre waterways, www. amsterdamcityswim.nl/en. 12.30, free to spectate FRIDAY NIGHT RUN Organised by the Phanos athletics association every second Friday of the month, this free group running event has a 40-minute run at a slower tempo for beginners plus the standard one-hour run for regulars. Fri 12 Sep & 10 Oct, Olympic Stadium, www. fridaynightrun.nl. 19.30, free DAVIS CUP Witness the Dutch Davis Cup team battle it out against their Croatian counterparts live. Excitement is guaranteed, as the winner of the competition will be ensured a spot in the Davis Cup World Group. Fri 12-Sun 14 Sep, Ziggo Dome, www.ziggodome.nl. Various times & prices DAM TOT DAMLOOP The Dam tot Dam Weekend sprints into town every September, bringing with it not only thousands of sporting enthusiasts but also numerous live performances to urge on the participants and keep the crowds entertained. Sun 21 Sep, starts from Prins Hendrikkade, www.damloop. nl. From 11.00, free to spectate FRIDAY NIGHT RUN NIEUW-WEST The District of Nieuw-West gets in on the evening running action with their very own Friday Night Run organised by the AAC athletics association every last Friday of the month. The route varies each week and there are two groups to join: one departing for a 30-minute run and another that takes on the more challenging one-hour variant. Fri 26 Sep & 31 Oct, Sportpark Ookmeer, Willinklaan 7, www.aacamsterdam.nl. 19.30, free SLOTERPLASLOOP Part of the ‘Rondje Mokum’ series of running events, this 10km race is centred around the Sloterplas in the NieuwWest district of the city. The

action moves to the east of Amsterdam on 26 October for the Middenmeerloop. Sun 12 Oct, A AC, Willinklaan 7, www.sloterplasloop.nl. 11.00, various prices BEN BRIL MEMORIAL BOXING GALA The old tradition of a boxing gala in a former circus ring is reinstated at this annual sporting event, named after one of the Netherlands’ most famous pre-WWII boxers. Mon 13 Oct, Royal Theatre Carré, Amstel 115, www.carre. nl. 19.30, €25-€75 AMSTERDAM CITY WALK Take in Amsterdam’s famous sights during a 12- or 17km walking route around the city. Sat 18 Oct, Olympic Stadium, www.amsterdamcitywalk.nl. Various times, €12 ZESDAAGSE VAN AMSTERDAM Witness pairs of international riders competing over six strenuous days of racing as Amsterdam’s premier trackcycling event returns to town. This challenging event sees crowds flock to take in the points races, sprints, time trials and Keirin races. Mon 27 Oct-Sat 1 Nov, Velodrome Amsterdam, Sloterweg 1045, www. zesdaagseamsterdam.nl. Times & prices TBC

LOCATIONS KLIMHAL AMSTERDAM The perfect place for the beginner and the advanced climber. Its main wall is 21 metres high, with a climbing surface of more than 2,300m2 and a bouldering area. Naritaweg 48, www.klimhal amsterdam.nl. Various times & prices

DE KLIMMUUR Rock climbing in the centre of Amsterdam. Enjoy a fun and safe event for beginners, or a more challenging climb for experienced rock hoppers. Various courses are available. Dijksgracht 2, www.deklim muur.nl. Various times & prices KNIJN BOWLING Ten-pin bowling for everyone: suitable for family events, 50+, beginners or competitive players. One of its most popular occasions is Disco Bowling. Scheldeplein 3, www. knijnbowl ing.nl. Various times & prices LASERCITY AMSTERDAM Less painful than paintballing, but certainly no less fun, the laser gaming adventures on offer here are perfect for large and small group outings. The 600m2 playing area is also the biggest laser gaming centre in the region. VOC-kade 14, www.laser gamenamsterdam.nl. Various times & prices SKI INN AMSTERDAM Whether you’re looking to warm up for a winter vacation or just curious to try your hand at a spot of skiing or snowboarding, you can do just that in the heart of Amsterdam. The indoor rolling slopes are adaptable for all skill levels. WG Plein 281, www.ski-inn.nl. Various times & prices SLOTEN GOLF COURSE This nine-hole golf course on the outskirts of Amsterdam features both wooded and water areas. Head on to the fairway or practice your swing at the driving range. Day memberships are available. Sloterweg 1045, www.golf baansloten.nl. Open Mon-Fri 08.30-18.00, various prices

Highlight sports

TCS AMSTERDAM MARATHON When it comes to running events, you could say Amsterdam has a personal best: the TCS Amsterdam Marathon. The event draws elite runners and amateurs from around the world and in 2013, the International Association of Athletics Federations (IAAF) recognised the high quality of the marathon by awarding it the Gold Label for Road Races. Sun 19 Oct, Olympic Stadium, www.tcsamsterdammarathon.nl. From 09.30, various prices (free to spectate)

PART IV THE A-LIST.

KIDS & FAMILY advertorial

ATTRACTIONS AMSTERDAM DUNGEON The Amsterdam Dungeon brings 500 years of dark history to life with 11 shows, seven actors and one terrifying experience. Rokin 78, www.the-dungeons. nl. Open daily 10.00-18.00 (last tour); €22, ages 4-15 €18 ANNE FRANK HOUSE This is the hiding place where Anne Frank wrote her diary during World War II. Quotations, photographs, films and original objects all serve to illustrate the events that occurred here. Suitable for children over ten. Prinsengracht 267, www. annefrank.org. Open Mon-Fri, Sun Sat 09.00-21.00, Sat 09.0022.00; €9, ages 10-17 €4.50 ARTIS ROYAL ZOO Admire the tropical fish in the Aquarium and travel through time in the Planetarium. See giraffes galloping amongst the zebras and wildebeests. Surround yourself with hundreds of fluttering butterflies or stroll through the historical park with its multitude of plants. Plantage Kerklaan 38-40, www. artis.nl. Open daily 09.00-18.00; €19.95, ages 3-9 €16.50

run the restaurant – including cooking, serving, bartending, tidying up and running the cash register. Vondelpark 6b, www.kinderkook kafe.nl. Open daily 10.00-17.00; various prices MADAME TUSSAUDS AMSTERDAM Step into the amazing world of Madame Tussauds. The collection of wax figures include the gorgeous Brad Pitt, the outrageous Lady Gaga and the brilliant Einstein. Pose for photos with the likes of David Beckham, Justin Bieber and Beyoncé. Dam 20, www.madametussauds. nl. Open daily 10.00-18.30; €22, ages 5-15 €18, under-5s free NATIONAL MARITIME MUSEUM Het Scheepvaartmuseum has a variety of exhibitions designed just for kids. Sal & Lori and the Circus at Sea is an underwater fairy tale for the youngest visitors, while older children will enjoy The Tale of the Whale or See You in the Golden Age. Moored just outside the museum is the Dutch East India Company ship Amsterdam. Kattenburgerplein 1, www. scheepvaartmuseum.nl. Open daily 09.00-17.00; €15, ages 5-17 €7.50, under-5s free

Highlight Artis

BEST-KEPT SECRET: A NEW GREEN SQUARE IN THE CENTRE OF AMSTERDAM Want to experience a secret? Come to the brand new Artis Square, enclosed by two monumental 19th-century buildings. Enjoy a cup of coffee under its magnificent trees in the morning sun. Lunch or dine in atmospheric café-restaurant de Plantage with a view of an original Dutch polder landscape and the world’s biggest collection of spoonbills. Enjoy this beautiful and intimate space, bordered by a magnificent water fountain. You can freely access the square from Plantage Middenlaan or Plantage Kerklaan (tram 9,14,10). It will open on 8 September. On the square, housed in the recently restored building de Ledenlokalen (dating from 1873), a world premiere opens on 1 October: Micropia. This will offer you a new, first-class nature experience: the world’s largest micro-experience, in the heart of the city.

BLEEKMOLENS RACE PANCAKE BOAT PLANET A cosy boat, all-you-canBurn off some steam and rubber AGENDA eat pancakes and a view of at this indoor go-karting track. OPEN MONUMENTENDAGEN (HERITAGE DAYS) Amsterdam’s canals make the Minimum age for karting is eight; Discover the secrets of the recently opened Artis Square during Pancake Boat a great activity for minimum height is 1.4 metres. the Open Monumentendagen. Artis volunteers will provide you all ages. Choose from a number Helmets and protective clothing with information about this beautiful new space. of cruises every week and, for are included. There’s also a large Sat 13 & Sun 14 September, Artis Square, continuously 10.00a set price, everyone can eat as indoor playground, bowling alley many pancakes as they like with and restaurant. 16.00 a wide variety of tasty toppings. Herwijk 10, www.raceplanet. com. Open Mon-Fri 13.00-23.00, Ms van Riemsdijkweg opposite nr OPEN MONUMENTENDAGEN (HERITAGE DAYS) 38, www.pannenkoekenboot.nl. Sat & Sun 12.00-23.00; €15.75 During the Open Monumentendagen, a large part of the reVarious times & prices for karting, various packages cently renovated monumental 19th-century building de Ledenavailable lokalen is exclusively opened to the public. The tour guide will SCIENCE CENTER NEMO DUTCH RESISTANCE take you through a large part of de Ledenlokalen and reveal its NEMO introduces young and MUSEUM JUNIOR old to the world of science interesting stories. and technology. Five floors are The Dutch Resistance Museum Sat 13 & Sun 14 September, de Ledenlokalen, continuously filled with exhibitions, theatre (Verzetsmuseum) details the 10.00-16.00 history of the Dutch resistance in performances, films, workshops and demonstrations. Smell, World War II during the country’s CABINET OF NATURE IN THE FOREST HOUSE hear, feel and see how the world occupation by. The Junior wing Thanks to the Cabinet of Nature, visitors to the Forest House works. Everything is interactive. shows young visitors (nine-14 will discover more about animals. Take a closer look and learn Oosterdok 2, www.e-nemo.nl. years) how four peers lived during Open Tue-Mon 10.00-17.30; €15, wartime. more about the skull of the smallest and the biggest monkeys under-4s free Verzetsmuseum, Plantage Kerkon Earth. laan 61, www.verzetsmuseum.org. Daily Sat 11-Sun 19 October, Forest House, 13.00-15.00 TROPENMUSEUM Open Mon, Sat-Sun 11.00-17.00, JUNIOR Tue-Fri 10.00-17.00; €8, ages 7-15 ZIGZAG for the future Van Goghs. Tropenmuseum Junior was €4.50, under-7s free Mr Visserplein 7, www.tunfun.nl. This one-day festival transforms created especially for children EYEWALK from ages six to 13 and is focused Open daily 10.00-18.00; ages 1-12 the historic Nieuwmarkt into a €8.50, accompanying adults free on non-Western cultures. The fun-filled world of textiles for Sharing the world of cinema interactive exhibits introduce kids aged three to 12. There are with the whole family, kids aged children to new cultures in a workshops in 3D weaving (six+) seven to 12 can take a 15-minute playful way that sparks their and machine building (ten+), interactive tour of the EYE Filmcuriosity. EVENTS performances and DIY activities museum, meeting film characters Linnaeusstraat 2, www. including ‘wild weaving’, and watching classic movie clips FAIRGROUND tropenmuseum.nl. Open Tue-Sun ‘knitting sound’ and ‘LED hugs’. along the way. After the selfRegister for workshops guided tour they can even shoot 10.00-17.00; €12.50, ages 4-18 €8, Whether you’re one for being under-4s free. in advance. their own green-screen film scene. flung around high above the city, Fri 5 Sep, Nieuwmarkt, www. EYE, IJpromenade 1, www. racing around in the dodgems, TUNFUN waag.org. 12.00-19.00; free eyefilm.nl. Tours Sat & Sun being spooked in the haunted 10.00-17.00, Wed 12.00-17.00, or TunFun is an indoor paradise for house or simply sightseeing from SUNDAY MARKET children under 12. Under adult daily during school holidays; €3 the top of a Ferris wheel, the supervision, kids can enjoy hours Artists, designers and per tablet fairground is guaranteed fun of fun in a huge 4,000m2 indoor craftspeople flog their wares at any age. KINDERKOOKKAFE playground. There’s something and delicious food and drink is 3-7 Sep Nieuw-Sloten (Belfor every age and interest: soft on offer to fuel your shopping The ‘Kids Cook Café’ is a giëplein), 4-12 Oct Noord slides and mini ball pool for frenzy. There’s always some delightful and unique restaurant (Buikslotermeerplein), 9-19 Oct babies and infants; trampolines form of entertainment or crafty located near the Vondelpark. Dam square, 17-26 Oct Osdorp and jungle gyms for the older workshop on and plenty of kids’ Here children (ages five to 12) (Stadspark Osdorp), 21-26 Oct kids; and crafting and painting clothing and toy stalls to browse. do absolutely everything to help Olympic Stadium

Sun 7 Sep & Sun 5 Oct, Westergasfabriek, www.sundaymarket. nl. 12.00-18.00; free THE MAGIC FLUTE After being rescued from a serpent, Prince Tamino is given a picture of the queen’s daughter, Pamina, who is enslaved by the evil Sarastro. Armed with a magic flute of protection, the prince – who has instantly fallen in love with Pamina – and his feathery companion Papageno embark on a journey to save her. Mozart’s Die Zauberflöte (The Magic Flute) blends poetic and comic elements in this enchanting tale of love, courage and virtue. Sat 13 Sep-Sat 25 Oct, various dates & times, Amsterdam Marionette Theatre, Nieuwe Jonkerstraat 8, www.marionet tentheater.nl. €15, under-14s €6, free on 13 & 14 Sep for Open Monumentendag CINEKID Annual film and new-media festival that has family entertainment at the heart of its programming. From films for under-fives through to the teen market, each year it presents a fine selection of new movies and classic hits as well as interactive installations and workshops. And, as an extra treat, the festival gets spooky in a brief reprise for its Halloween festivities at the Kriterion on 2 November. Wed 11-Fri 18 Oct, plus 2 Nov, Westergasfabriek, www.cinekid. nl. Various times & prices NACHT VAN DE NACHT This eco-friendly event features activities all around the country designed to draw the public’s attention to the effects of light pollution. In Amsterdam, members of the city’s Public Observatory will host a night of stargazing. 25 Oct, Camping Zeeburg, De Breekstraat 35, www.nacht vandenacht.nl. 19.30-23.30; free MIRACLE OR SCIENCE? Focusing on the worlds of physics and optical illusions, Miracle or Science? offers an educational look at everything from the chaotic nature of whirlpools to the dynamics of pendulums. Until 26 Oct, Science Center NEMO, Oosterdok 2, www.e-nemo.nl. 10.00-17.30; €15, under-4s free THE ART OF THE BRICK American artist Nathan Sawaya is the creative force behind more than 70 astounding structures built from in excess of a million LEGO® bricks at this unique exhibition. Look out for LEGO® versions of Rodin’s ‘The Thinker’ and a six-metre-high Tyrannosaurus rex. And then get hands-on and have a crack at building your own LEGO® masterpiece in the interactive zone! Until 26 Oct, Amsterdam EXPO, Gustav Mahlerlaan 24, www. amsterdamexpo.nl. Open daily 09.00-18.00; €13-€19, ages 6-18 €13, under-5s free

sep & oct 2014

GAY & LESBIAN REGULAR EVENTS

THANK GODDESS, IT’S FRIDAY Welcome the weekend with live performances and an open stage. Every Fri, Lellebel, 20.00

ONE-OFF EVENTS

NAKED SWIMMING VENERATION OF THE MAN The Marnixbad pools contain ZONDERBROEK much less chlorine than most – Exhibition celebrating and which is good news since you’ll be Drop all your pretences and exploring the image of man exposing your sensitive bits. dance without trousers. through the eyes of men. Every Tue, Marnixbad, 21.00, Every Fri & Sun, Church, various Until 21 Sep, Allard Pierson Muvarious prices times, €10 seum, Oude Turfmarkt 127, www. allardpiersonmuseum.nl. Various TUESDAY BLUESDAY GAY PUB CRAWL times & prices. Club night with a special focus Does exactly what it says in the GAY MOVIE NIGHT on blues, soul and contemporary tin, taking in ‘Gay Street’s finest music. drinking establishments. Nurse your hangover in the dark, Every Tue, Same Place, 21.00 Every Sat, departs Taboo, 20.00 while enjoying a screening of the gems of gay cinema. DRINK & COCKTAIL EVENING IT’S SHOWTIME FOLKS Wed 3 Sep & 1 Oct, Pathé de Enjoy a mouth-watering cocktail It’s show time almost every night Munt, Vijzelstraat 15 21.00, €10 at drag show bar Lellebel. at Lellebel, the most outrageous OIL PARTY Every Thur, Lellebel, 20.00 drag show bar in town, but Saturdays are especially fabulous. Men-only party featuring a pool BLUE Every Sat, Lellebel, 20.00 of warm oil and strict naked dress Kooky clubbing with Amstercode. Men only. BUBBLES & BITES dam’s drag supremo Jennifer Sat 6 Sep, Church, 22.00Hopelezz. Drinks are just €2.50. Free bites from 17.00-1900; cheap 05.00, €20 Every Thur, Church, 22.00, €5 bubbles – just €2.50 – all night. CATACOMBE Every Sun, Prik, 16.00 THE PONY CLUB A mixed party where all lifestyles DOUBLE HAPPY HOUR Three floors of DJs spin an enerare welcome. Dress code: fetish, getic mix of pop, disco, house and Because why wouldn’t you want leather, latex, metal, uniform, electro alongside performances to to start the working week with a rubber. Apply for tickets by the lift your spirits. hangover? website: www.catacombe.nl. Every Thur, Club NYX, 23.00, €5, Every Sun, Taboo, 18.00 Sat 13 Sep, Church, 22.00-05.00 free before midnight SUNDAY CAROUSEL NETHERBEARS AT THE THANK GOD IT’S FRIDAY QUEEN’S HEAD Be transported to exotic climes Celebrate the weekend with with Arabian and Turkish music Bi-weekly bear get-together. tunes, nibbles and drinks. courtesy of old and new divas Sun 14 & 28 Sep, 12 & 26 Oct, Every Fri, Engel van Amsterdam, from Lellebel. The Queen’s Head, www.nether 17.00, free Every Sun, Lellebel, 22.00 bears.nl, 19.00

love noodles love wagamama wagamama amsterdam amstelstraat 8 | rembrandtplein max euweplein 10 | leidse plein zuidplein 12 | wtc | station zuid opening hours 12.00 - 22.00

GARBO FOR WOMEN Single ladies strut their stuff at this regular ladies-only meet-up. Sat 20 Sep & 18 Aug, Strand West, 18.00, €8 FURBALL Hairy men dance party for the butch & bears. Sat 20 Sep, Church, 22.0005.00, €10 SPANK! For those who’ve been naughty, an afternoon of corporal punishment. Men only. Sun 21 Sep, Church, 16.0020.00, €10 LGBTQ OOSTERPART & LGBTQ CAFE Low-key neighbourhood drinks in the east of the city. Fri 26 Sep & 31 Oct, Eden Amsterdam Manor Hotel, Linnaeusstraat 89, www.lgbtqooster park.blogspot.com, 21.00, free BEAR NECESSITY Party for (muscle-)bears, hairy hunks, beefy boys, cubs, otters and everyone else. Sat 4 Oct, Odeon, 23.00, €20 HORSEMEN & KNIGHTS Big willy gay sex party with underweard dress code. Drop ’em and if you measure up, entrance is free. Sun 19 Oct, The Warehouse, 15.00, €8

AMSTERDAM LEATHER PRIDE – RUFF! Leather Pride celebrates all things fetish at venues across town. Thur 23-Sun 26 Oct, various locations, http://get-ruff.com. Various times & prices ADDRESSES Church Kerkstraat 52, www.clubchurch.nl Engel van Amsterdam Zeedijk 21 www.engelamsterdam.nl Lellebel Utrechtsestraat 4, www.lellebel.nl Marnixbad Marnixplein 1, www.hetmarnix.nl Club NYX Reguliersdwarsstraat 42 http://clubnyx.nl Odeon Singel 460 www.odeonamsterdam.nl Prik Mosterdpotsteeg 109 www.prikamsterdam.nl The Queen’s Head Zeedijk 20, www.queenshead.nl Same Place Nassaukade 120 www.sameplace.nl Strand West Stavangerweg 900 www.garboforwomen.nl Taboo Reguliersdwarsstraat 45 www.taboobar.nl The Warehouse Warmoesstraat 96 www.warehouseamsterdam.com

FIRST CLASS TICKETS LAST MINUTE PRICE LASTMINUTETICKETSHOP.NL

wagamama.nl foto ISH Arenda de Hoop

EXPLORE THE ZAANSTREEK

his is the perfect time to explore the Zaan region from the water, taking in the windmills, wooden houses and the polder landscape as you sail along the River Zaan. Sailing is one of the best ways to see the perfectly preserved museum village The Zaanse Schans, whose impressive skyline – studded with working windmills – and characteristic green wooden houses – can be perfectly viewed from the water (www.dezaanseschans. nl). The 11km waterfront of the River Zaan connects approximately 75 vintage industrial buildings, including windmills and the vast factory wall at Wormer. It makes for a surprisingly beautiful view from the river. Sloop rental is available in the centre of

Zaandam, from where you can explore on your own. There are countless opportunities to picnic or to dock at a terrace for refreshments – and with a GPS route, even the biggest landlubbers can’t get lost (www.varenopdezaan.nl). If you don’t fancy taking the helm yourself, take a trip on the Zaan Hopper, which sails between Zaandam and Wormerveer every FridaySunday (www.zaanhopper.nl). When you get back on dry land, the centre of Zaandam is full of great shops, restaurants and cafés to while your afternoon away… TRANSPORT TIP: The Zaan Boat sails between Amsterdam Central Station and the centre of Zaandam until 1 October; price €3 per journey, children under 12 and bikes free. www.zaanboot.nl

hop on hop off

canal cruise amsterdam

Buy your tickets at canal.nl and receive a 10% discount.

+31 20 217 0501 canal.nl

1 ticket 3 lines 16 stops

create your own sightseeing tour

VISITOR INFORMATION

sep & oct 2014

Find u s @ iamst erda .com m

I amsterdam Visitor Information Centres are your one-stop shops for everything you need to know about the city. THE AMSTERDAM & REGION DAY TICKET This ticket entitles you to unlimited travel in Amsterdam and the surrounding region – day and night – on bus, tram and metro for 24 hours. Within the region are great tourist attractions including historic Haarlem, the fortified towns and castles of the fortress stretch, historical country estates along the River Vecht, and the peaceful Amstel River countryside – and of course, your journey to and from Amsterdam Airport Schiphol. A ticket costs just €13.50 and can be purchased from Visitor Information Centres or from GVB, EBS and Connexxion ticket points.

VISITOR INFORMATION CENTRES FOR INFORMATION AND TO BOOK EXCURSIONS, VISIT ONE OF THE VISITOR INFORMATION CENTRES IN AMSTERDAM: Tel: +31 (0)20 702 6000 Open Mon-Fri 09.00-17.00 info@iamsterdam.com www.iamsterdam.com http://twitter.com/Iamsterdam VISITOR INFORMATION CENTRE CENTRAL STATION* Stationsplein 10 (across from Central Station) Open Mon-Sat 09.00-17.00; Sun 10.00-17.00 VISITOR INFORMATION CENTRE SCHIPHOL AIRPORT Schiphol Airport, Arrivals 2 at Schiphol Plaza Open daily 07.00-22.00 *Last Minute Ticket Shop

I AMSTERDAM CITY GUIDE APP Visit Amsterdam and leave your guidebook at home! You’ll find everything you need to know on the I amsterdam City Guide app. Download for free at iTunes App Store (for iPhone, iPad & iPod touch), Google Play Store (for Android devices).

LAST MINUTE TICKET SHOPS Enjoy discounted theatre tickets on the day of performance. Check the Last Minute Ticket Shop screens and buy tickets at the following locations for same-day performances: VISITOR INFORMATION CENTRE CENTRAL STATION Stationsplein 10 (across from Central Station) Open daily 10.00-17.00 STADSSCHOUWBURG AMSTERDAM Leidseplein 26 Open Mon-Sat 12.00-18.00 AMSTERDAM PUBLIC LIBRARY (OBA) Oosterdokskade 143 Open Mon-Fri 10.00-19.30; Sat & Sun 10.00-18.00 www.lastminuteticketshop.nl

beyond amsterdam

CLOSING

BEYOND

‘[EVEN] STREET BUSKERS PLAY ANCIENT INSTRUMENTS… A CAPPELLA GROUPS ARE ON CORNERS INTONING MOTETS BY RENAISSANCE COMPOSERS.’

A’DAM

CLASSICS TODAY ON UTRECHT’S EARLY MUSIC FESTIVAL.

Get out of town for these don’t-miss attractions beyond the city limits.

text Danitscha van Zijverden & Megan Roberts

DE WERELD VAN HET WITTE DE WITHKWARTIER The interactive ‘World of Witte de With’ festival promises three days of the most exciting modern art, theatre, fashion, dance, music and photography focused around Rotterdam’s artistic epicentre. In addition to 30 cultural institutions opening up their doors, there’s a special focus on young and upcoming artists’ work in public spaces, encouraging visitors to experience the city in a whole new way. 13-15 September Witte de With Quarter, Rotterdam http://festivalwwwk.nl GETTING THERE: From Amsterdam Central Station trains to Rotterdam take 60min.

PAIN AND PLEASURE IN DUTCH PAINTING OF THE GOLDEN AGE Celebrated art historian and publicist Gary Schwartz is guest curator for an exploration of the depiction of emotion in paintings of the 16th and 17th centuries. Themes such as suffering and despair, love and lust, joy and gaiety abound in Golden Age Dutch painting and are represented here in 50 works, including Frans Hals’s famous painting, ‘The Mulatto’, history paintings, genre works and portraits by masters like Pieter Lastman, Rembrandt, Jan Steen and Frans van Mieris. Among the highlights is the little-known monumental ‘Christ Crowned with Thorns‘ by the Haarlem-born painter Jan Miense Molenaer. 11 October-15 February 2015 Frans Hals Museum Groot Heiligland 62, Haarlem www.franshalsmuseum.nl

GETTING THERE: From Amsterdam Central Station trains to Haarlem take 15min.

MARK ROTHKO The first exhibition of works by abstract expressionist painter Mark Rothko in the Netherlands in 40 years sees the artist’s earlier, lesser-known works on display. These include ‘classic style’ paintings and early forays into a highly personalised version of surrealism, which together trace Rothko’s artistic development towards full-blown abstract impressionism. Rothko’s paintings are counterpoised with works by Piet Mondrian from the museum’s collection, which draw parallels and highlight differences between American and Dutch abstract expressionism. 20 September-1 March 2015 Gemeentemuseum Den Haag Stadhouderslaan 41 www.gemeentemuseum.nl

GETTING THERE: From Amsterdam Central Station take the train to Den Haag HS, then tram 17 (direction Statenkwartier). Total journey time: 80min.

63 THE REPRESENTATION OF THE AFFECTS, PASSIONS, DESIRES AND SORROWS OF MEN WAS THE ‘SOUL OF THE ARTS’ FOR 17TH-CENTURY ART THEORETICIAN KAREL VAN MANDER.

AMSTELVEEN CULINAIR Local restaurants present their specialities at this convivial festival for foodies. Expect perfectly grilled meat, organic treats and fresh sushi, washed down with a glass of wine. On Saturday the Stadspleinfestival celebrates the opening of the cultural season with music, dance and theatre performances for all ages, headlined by the Hans Dulfer Band, who’ll be bringing their trademark jazz and swing. 12-14 September Stadsplein, Amstelveen www.amstelveenculinair.info

GETTING THERE: From Amsterdam Central Station catch bus 170 (direction Uithoorn via Amstelveen) to stop Busstation Amstelveen or take tram 5 or metro 51. Journey time: 40min.

EXPERIENCE MARK ROTHKO’S EMOTIONS AT THE GEMEENTEMUSUEM IN DEN HAAG.

ZOFIA KULIK, SELF MAGNIFICENCE IIIB 1997

MARK ROTHKO, UNTITLED (MAN AND TWO WOMEN IN A PASTORAL SETTING), 1940. NATIONAL GALLERY WASHINGTON

SEE IF YOU AGREE, AT HAARLEM’S FRANS HALS MUSEUM.

‘I’M NOT AN ABSTRACTIONIST. I’M NOT INTERESTED IN THE RELATIONSHIP OF COLOUR OR FORM OR ANYTHING ELSE. I’M INTERESTED ONLY IN EXPRESSING BASIC HUMAN EMOTIONS: TRAGEDY, ECSTASY, DOOM, AND SO ON.’

THE HIDDEN PICTURE

EARLY MUSIC FESTIVAL For ten days this autumn, the Early Music Festival sees 110 concerts – including 60 free fringe performances – bring music from the Middle Ages to the 18th century, medieval to baroque, into the spotlight in Utrecht’s most beautiful historic venues. For this edition, the focus is on Habsburg Empire with music from De Monte, Gallus, Michna, Zelenka, Caldara, Biber and others.

Until 7 September Various locations, Utrecht www.oudemuziek.nl

GETTING THERE: From Amsterdam Central Station trains to Utrecht take 30min.

More than 50 works selected from the private collection of ING bank represent 40 years of collecting art. Artists include Michelangelo Pistoletto, Ossip Zadkine, Iris van Dongen, Ad Dekker, Piet Mondrian, Pyke Koch, Richard Deacon, Carel Willink, Cristian Boltanski, René Daniëls, Roni Horn, Jessica Diamond, Michael Raedecker and many more. Of special note is the triptych by Jaap Hillenius (1934-1999), which was commissioned in 1987 for the iconic ING headquarters building in Southeast Amsterdam and is now on public view for the first time. 13 September-4 January 2015 Cobra Museum Sandbergplein 1 Amstelveen www.cobra-museum.nl

GETTING THERE: From Amsterdam Central Station catch bus 170 (direction Uithoorn via Amstelveen) to stop Busstation Amstelveen or take tram 5 or metro 51. Journey time: 40min.

CLOSING

THEN AND NOW

then & now

AMSTERDAM CANALS, 1904 Tracing the cityâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s history one image at a time.

NEXT ISSUE

IDFA International Documentary Film Festival Amsterdam brings the best of the world’s docs to town.

NOV & DEC 2014

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This new attraction boasts 30 17th- and 18th-century civic portraits including Rembrandt’s ‘Anatomy Lesson of Dr Deijman’ (pictured). Opens 29 November Hermitage Amsterdam ©JANET ECHELMAN

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CINDERELLA Award-winning balletic interpretation of the well-known fairy tale.

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AMSTERDAM LIGHT FESTIVAL

12 December-1 January 2015 Dutch National Opera & Ballet

Everything is illuminated, when the Amsterdam Light Festival puts the city in the spotlight. 27 November-17 January 2015 Various locations

MUSEUMNACHT

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Houseboat Museum Prinsengracht 296K www.houseboatmuseum.nl

GALLERY OF THE GOLDEN AGE

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At the end of the 19th century, Amsterdam’s Golden Age waterways were the equivalent of today’s A-roads. Goods were transported en masse from the port of Amsterdam to the city centre, and with the completion of the Merwede Canal in 1892, the whole of Western Europe was accessible by water. The boats that did the work were hybrid work-life affairs, with the owner – and often his whole family – living below deck in cramped, damp quarters. Often, after retirement the owner would simply moor his ship and continue living on it. These became the city’s first houseboats. Following World War II and the decline of water transportation, these old boats became the solution to Amsterdam’s housing shortage. Whereas in the past houseboats were for the poor, these days, with Amsterdam’s limited moorings, they’re only for the privileged few. Today, some 2,400 families live on the waterways of Amsterdam, in either decommissioned boats or in houses built on floating pontoons made of concrete, called modern arks. You can sneak a peek at the way they live from a canal tour or pedal boat – or better still, visit the Houseboat Museum, where owner Vincent van Loon has lovingly restored and preserved the Hendrika Maria for a unique insight into the distinctly Dutch way of life.

STADSGEZICHT MET GRACHTEN, AMSTERDAM, JAMES HIGSON, 1904

LIFE ON THE WATER

ANA ANA, 2013

19-30 November Various locations

See Amsterdam’s museums in a completely new light – after dark. 1 November Various locations

CLOSING

ON THE WAY

OUT

We asked people leaving Schiphol Airport for their Amsterdam advice.

on the way out

ANDREEA POPOV (22) FROM AMSTERDAM ’I’m from Turin but live in Amsterdam at the moment. It’s a great city to live in. I like going to house parties at my friends’ houses, but Trouw is one of my favourite clubs to go to. I live near the east of Amsterdam so it’s also very close by for me.’

text & photos Elisah Jacobs

JESSICA COSTELLO (29), CHARLI PANTER (24), LAURA HOLLOWAY (27) FROM MANCHESTER ’We travelled all the way to Amsterdam for Loveland Festival. It’s our first time in Amsterdam so we’re excited. We’d like to visit the Sex Museum on the Damrak. We’ve heard some good stories about that one!’

JUSTIN VOSKUIJL (22) FROM THE HAGUE ’It’s always nice to go out in the Leidseplein area with friends. There’s such a variety of people in the bars. During summertime it’s nice to go to one of the festivals in and near Amsterdam. I’m also planning to visit the EYE Filmmuseum one day.’

KEVIN KROONDIJK (22) FROM THE HAGUE ’Some friends of mine live in Amsterdam, so I often play soccer in one of the parks in the city. I’ve heard good stories about the Rijksmuseum, so I think I’m going to visit that one very soon.’

IRENE VERDIANA ZANCO (21) FROM TURIN ’I’m here to visit a good friend of mine. She knows the city very well. I’m also visiting a great beach party in Zandvoort, not far from Amsterdam. Hopefully the weather will be good!’

editor-in-chief Bart van Oosterhout art director & basic design Loes Koomen designer Zlatka Siljdedic copy editor Megan Roberts contributors Anne-Rose Bantzinger, Lauren Comiteau, Karin Engelbrecht, Elisah Jacobs, Janna Reinsma, Bregtje Schudel, Mark Smith, Joke van der Wey, Danitscha van Zijverden listings EdenFrost (Tamar Bosschaart, Steven McCarron & Dave Nice), Christiaan de Wit cover photo Girl with the Beehive Hair (Funfair at the Nieuwmarkt) 1963, from Amsterdam, 1956 © Ed van der Elsken / Nederlands Fotomuseum, courtesy Annet Gelink Gallery cover design Cynthia Wassink

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