I amsterdam Magazine spring 2025

Magazine

Eat & drink

Amsterdam chefs on spring dishes

A ordable eats

Modern Turkish at Esra

Around town

When it snows in spring

Flowers in bloom

Fantastic forts worth a visit

What’s on

Must-see: Anselm Kiefer exhibition

An ode to women

Kaboom Animation Festival

Hottest Coffee in Town

FROM FILTER TO FLAT WHITE

Chaja and her great love Abraham married in 1941. She had sewn her own wedding dress. A year and a half later, they were murdered in Sobibor, solely because they were Jewish. What would you do if your love were forbidden?

THE OUTLET AROUND THE CORNER

HIDDEN GEM IN CITY CENTRE

Discover the Kalverpassage #Fashion #Food #Drinks #View #Art #Parking #Toilets #Open7days

From strawberries and elm blossom to the first outdoor festivals of the year – this magazine is bursting with spring!

08 City of Coffee

WELCOME

COFFEE CULTURE

WAmsterdam went from being a key player in the global coffee trade to a hotspot for some of Europe’s buzziest specialty roasters.

17 Eat & Drink

WHERE TO INDULGE IN AMSTERDAM

Amsterdam chefs show you their spring favourites. Plus: cheap eats, African restaurants, and the finest dining spots.

31 What’s On

WHAT TO SEE AND WHERE TO GO

For more information about Amsterdam, visit our website: iamsterdam.com

A deep-dive into Anselm Kiefer’s art at the Van Gogh and Stedelijk Museums, the best film festivals and all the events worth adding to your agenda.

55 City Guide

EXPLORE AMSTERDAM’S NEIGHBOURHOODS

There’s a new discovery around every corner, from the city centre’s spring snow to the best hangouts in the different neighbourhoods.

71 Day Trips

DISCOVER THE AMSTERDAM AREA

Explore beyond the city borders of Amsterdam and discover fantastic forts, colourful flowers and unmissable experiences.

87 On the Way Out

MY AMSTERDAM & COLOFON

An artist’s view on Amsterdam, plus the very makers of this magazine send you off with their personal favourites of where to have a coffee.

hen you visit Amsterdam for the first time, you might notice the abundance of coffee places. Every neighbourhood boasts its own range of small independent coffee houses where self-employed creatives come to sip their first cup of specialty coffee of the morning, artfully prepared by a barista, and work on their laptops for the rest of the day. If you think this coffee culture is quite a novelty, you’re mistaken. Amsterdam’s first coffee house opened in 1663. That’s right, we’re talking about the era of Rembrandt, who was 57 at that time. A merchant of the Dutch East India Company had encountered the ‘black water’ as early as 1616 in Mokka, Yemen. Soon after, the Dutch started cultivating the beans for themselves in Java. Fast forward to 1963 and we have a Dutchman called Alfred Peet who moved to Berkely, US, to study but soon found a better way to spend his days. As a coffee lover he despised the quality of the coffee in the US and decided to import his own superior Arabica beans from Indonesia and roast them himself. A student from the University of San Francisco called Gerald Baldwin became a regular customer and an inquisitive student of the coffee-making process. Back in his hometown Seattle, he started his own company together with two friends and called it Starbucks. The rest is history. Starbucks’ arrival in Amsterdam (it now has its European headquarters here) sparked a wave of innovative specialty coffee houses. And so, the story of coffee has come full circle. Think about that when you order your next five-euro oat-milk flat white.

Bart van Oosterhout Editor-in-Chief, I amsterdam Magazine

Coffee Culture

KARIN ENGELBRECHT

The Hottest Coffee in Town

Amsterdam went from being a key player in the global coffee trade to a hotspot for some of Europe’s buzziest specialty roasters.

For years, the Dutch were content with pressing a button for a quick office coffee or picking up a trusty red brick of Douwe Egberts at the supermarket. But today, Amsterdam’s coffee scene is fired up with specialty cafés, independent roasters and experimental brews catering to a growing demand for a quality cuppa, proving that the city’s love affair with coffee goes far beyond convenience.

When coffee came to Amsterdam

Dutch East India Company (VOC) merchant Pieter van den Broecke was one of the first Dutchmen to taste coffee. The year was 1616. The place Mocha, Yemen. In his journal, he described the unfamiliar drink as ‘black beans, from which they make

black water and drink it warm’. The sneaky merchant smuggled a coffee plant back to the Netherlands, breaking Yemen’s monopoly. Cultivated in Amsterdam’s Hortus Botanicus, coffee plants subsequently spread worldwide and, by 1663, Amsterdam saw its first coffee house. When the VOC began cultivating coffee in Indonesia in the early 18th century, it solidified Amsterdam's role as a key player in the global coffee trade. Centuries later, in the 1960s, Alfred Peet, a Dutchman raised in the coffee trade, brought this legacy to the US, mentoring Starbucks’ founders and shaping global coffee culture. Today, the city remains central as a major coffee port, hosting Starbucks’ only non-US production facility and various logistics firms specialising in coffee storage and transshipment.

The city’s love affair with coffee goes far beyond convenience

Coffee Culture

COVER FEATURE

Zuivere Koffie

Zuivere Koffie’s founder, Jemuel Lampe, started his company over eight years ago, when he was in prison.

‘I finally got on the right path and an entrepreneur saw something in the idea. Someone who believed in me? I hadn’t heard something like that before,’ says Lampe. Today, Zuivere Koffie teaches motivated (ex-)convicts the craft of brewing and gives them a chance to successfully return to society.

Seeking a unique taste profile?

Head to Dak Showroom for Coco Bongo (from €19.90 for 250g), a coconut co-fermented Caturra from Colombia. BELLAMYPLEIN 16, DAKCOFFEEROASTERS.COM

From caffeine to craft

In the 18th century, coffee in the Netherlands shifted from an elite indulgence to a common social custom. By the 20th century, thanks to brands such as Douwe Egberts, coffee became a Dutch household staple. Founded in 1753, Douwe Egberts is still the biggest-selling coffee brand in the Netherlands. ‘In my grandmother’s time, coffee was a commodity like sugar,’ says Yorick Bruins (34), co-founder of specialty coffee brand Wakuli. ‘Until 15 to 20 years ago, you’d meet for coffee in a brown café. Espresso-based drinks came later, with some Italian-style spots doing short shots. I worked in the brown café scene when I was young and we sold a ton of coffee, but there was zero love for the product or how it should be made. I remember a lot of cappuccinos with burnt milk.’

The 1990s and early 2000s brought Amsterdam’s first specialty cafés such as CoffeeCompany and roasters such as Bocca. Specialty coffee, defined by the Specialty Coffee Association as scoring

Amsterdam Coffee Festival

Every spring, coffee lovers from around the globe gather in Amsterdam to celebrate the art of the dark bean. The 10th edition of the Amsterdam Coffee Festival takes place at NDSM-Loods (NDSMPlein 28) in Noord this spring. Here, you can taste some exceptional specialty coffees (free samples), meet the best Dutch roasters and baristas, discover new kit and the latest innovations and trends, and follow workshops and masterclasses, such as latte art classes. There will also be roasting demos, barista battles (latte art, live roasting...), art displays, live music, food, cocktails and more.

3-5 APRIL, AMSTERDAMCOFFEEFESTIVAL.COM

80+ out of 100 for quality, introduced new

ny in 1998, two years after they opened Jasper Uhlenbusch, brand director at

80+ out of 100 for quality, introduced new standards for colour, consistency, aroma and mouthfeel. ‘I joined CoffeeCompany in 1998, two years after they opened their first location in Leidsestraat,’ tells Jasper Uhlenbusch, brand director at

This past decade has seen the Amsterdam’s specialty coffee scene flourish

CoffeeCompany. ‘I was 18 and, like most of my generation, didn’t like coffee. Our founders felt that this should change. We started off selling coffee beans and later did takeaway. When we opened our first sit-down location, it became more about the lifestyle.’

Riding the third wave

The next seven stores of CoffeeCompany were all in upcoming neighbourhoods. Verco eecompanisering became synonymous

with gentrification, to the point where the Amsterdam City Council would ask CoffeeCompany to open outlets in certain areas that needed some uplifting, according to Uhlenbusch. Then, in 2012, the 35-store chain was sold to Douwe Egberts – a full circle moment. CoffeeCompany is still one of the biggest Dutch chains. The past decade has seen Amsterdam’s specialty coffee scene flourish. According to Zjevaun Janga (33), winner of the Dutch Barista Championships in 2012, 2024 and 2025, some of the best European roasters are in Amsterdam, including Friedhats, Dak and Uncommon. Many coffee spots are run by expats, especially Australians.

Argentinian Guillermo Mellicovsky founded one of Amsterdam’s first espresso bars in 1999. Today, Melly’s Cookie Bar pairs Italian Arcaffé coffee with his signature alfajores cookies – a favourite of Queen Máxima.

NIEUWEZIJDS VOORBURGWAL 137, MELLYSCOOKIEBAR.NL

‘Australia’s been on the forefront of coffee and brunch trends, influencing cities such as Paris, New York and Amsterdam,’ says Yudhi Srinivasan, co-owner at Box Sociaal, who moved to Amsterdam from Sydney eight years ago. ‘While we’re food-focused, the coffee needs to be just as good.’

The real price of coffee

Nearly 80% of Dutch people over 16 drink coffee weekly. But will this still be the case in a few years time? Coffee prices are rising globally, with recent spikes driven by climate challenges in major producing countries. ‘Roasters that want to keep things affordable will have to buy lower quality beans. We prefer to keep the same quality with price increases,’ says

Five Ways Coffee

The focus of this West-based roaster is on sourcing, roasting and brewing the best coffees, while providing transparency from the moment a bean is picked until it’s brewed. This is achieved by working with trusted green bean importers and trading directly with farmers. Expect premium house-roasted 100% Arabica beans that highlight the terroir and processes from different regions, skilfully pulled on a gleaming Slayer espresso machine. There is also a location in Oost (Boerhaaveplein 3) with brunch, weekend wine and dinner. KINKERSTRAAT 186, FIVEWAYSCOFFEE.COM

Louis Boucher, co-founder of Dak Coffee Roasters. But Uhlenbusch thinks it may be time to reevaluate the Robusta bean, which is often viewed as the lesser choice (as compared to the Arabica bean).

Efforts to address the ‘true cost’ of coffee – accounting for environmental and social

Efforts to address the ‘true cost�of coffee are underway at the Amsterdam City Council

impacts – are underway at the Amsterdam City Council. And a recycling plant has been established in the city to repurpose coffee grounds into coffee oil. Specialty roasters, however, prioritise direct trade and transparency. ‘For us, sustainability is the norm because we work directly with

farmers,’ says barista champion Janga, who owns Ripsnorter coffee roasters. ‘We know exactly who picked our coffee and when it was bagged and shipped. But big commodity coffee brands, who buy in bulk from green bean suppliers, are straight up coffee mafia.’

Could making specialty coffee accessible be the key to sustainability? ‘Over 50% of coffee in Dutch supermarkets now have certifications. This hasn’t solved much,’ says Wakuli’s Bruins, who is also an agriculturalist. ‘Specialty coffee benefits farmers and consumers alike, offering better taste and fair pay. We work directly with 14,500 farmers in 13 countries to ensure transparency and quality. But we must become even more accessible to eliminate the big companies. Getting people to drink better coffee is where we win the most.’

4850

This Oost-based establishment serves specialty coffee, sandwiches and some of the best homemade cinnamon and cardamom buns in town. They’ve had a close partnership with Copenhagen-based roaster La Cabra for many years and have a wide range of interesting seasonal filter coffees from various regions, varieties and processing methods. There are excellent classic espresso-based drinks and Kettl Tea matcha, too. ‘From cappuccino lovers to real coffee geeks, we welcome everyone here,’ says owner Daniel Schein. CAMPERSTRAAT 48-50, 4850.NL

Coffee Culture

Royal Delft’s been making porcelain fit for a king since 1653, like this Dutch Dawn espresso set (€29.95) inspired by old Dutch landscapes.

VARIOUS STOCKISTS

ROYALDELFT.COM

Moychay

Is coffee not your cup of tea? Tea enthusiasts also have plenty to explore at this self-titled ‘tea culture club’. It boasts one of the biggest tea selections in Europe, with over 250 directly sourced teas from 13 countries. It’s a treasure trove of Gong Fu Cha tea ware and -accessories including wood-fired bowls and handcrafted gaiwans (Chinese brewing vessels). There is also a tea bar with tastings and authentic Chinese tea ceremony rooms.

ROZENGRACHT 92H, MOYCHAY.NL

HET STADSPALEIS

‘We want to keep it affordable for everyone,’ says Taj Kroon (27), co-owner at this cosy 19th-century former police post, of his €1 Rovers Coffee espresso, which you can enjoy at the bar. ‘And the conversation’s free.’

NIEUWEZIJDS VOORBURGWAL 277 STADSPALEIS.COM

What’s percolating now?

The humble coffee bean is evolving with science-led fermentation and processing. Next-gen producers are experimenting with yeasts and controlled fermentation. This could transform coffee like it has the sourdough bread industry and

We’re going to see more experiential cafés

the craft beer market. Co-ferments with fruit, offering distinct flavours, are a rising trend. People are no longer visiting coffee spots solely for caffeine. ‘I think we’re going to see more experiential cafés, almost like omakase bars,’ says Janga. ‘It’s already happening in Asia, where a cup of coffee can cost more than your food.’

According to the experts we’ve spoken to, high-quality low-caffeine, decaf and plantbased milk options are growing as people choose to reduce caffeine and animal products. Younger generations also favour tea-based drinks, such as chai and matcha –and cold coffees. And while the syrup-flavoured drinks of the second wave were once considered not done, sweet drinks are back. ‘Even cool specialty places now do strawberry foam matcha lattes,’ says Uhlenbusch. Amsterdam’s coffee scene may be steeped in history and innovation, but just remember – when the specialty coffee spots start pouring in, it means trouble is brewing for the affordability of the area’s rents, homes and hotel prices.

CAFÉ-RESTAURANT HESP

Enjoy a €1 Caffè Piccolo espresso at the bar of this charming 135-yearold brown café while taking in its characteristic interior.

WEESPERZIJDE 130-131

CAFERESTAURANTHESP.NL

CALDI E FREDDI

Grab an authentic Italian espresso (€1.20) with cannoli or a sandwich on weekdays at this popular Italian deli in the Old Centre.

SPUISTRAAT 102, CALDIEFREDDI.NL

KAFFEE

ALBERTO POZZETTO

Situated around the corner from the famous Albert Cuyp market, this cosy Italian food shop offers Trucillo espressos (€1.50) as well as homemade cakes and hearty meatball sandwiches.

EERSTE VAN DER HELSTSTRAAT 57 ALBERTOPOZZETTO.IT

the city’s best €1 espresso, with beans

Everyone feels at home in this selftitled ‘living room of the Dapperbuurt’, where you’ll find the city’s best €1 espresso, with beans from neighbourhood favourite and specialty roaster Rum Baba.

DAPPERPLEIN 45

KAFFEEAMSTERDAM.NL

The Story of the Tulip

Open daily, 10 am – 6 pm

Prinsengracht 116

One-minute walk from the Anne Frank House

Visit the largest

floriculture marketplace

Every morning, thousands of flowers and plants are traded through our digital platform, directly from growers to buyers around the world. Want to see how that works? With us, you get a unique behind-the-scenes look at this thriving trade!

•Walk around by yourself or with a guidediscover it at your own pace or get explanations from an expert.

•Tip - come early and experience the dynamics of the busiest hours

•A special experience for everyone who loves flowers and plants!

TICKETS & DATES

Where to indulge in Amsterdam Eat & Drink

BY: KARIN ENGELBRECHT

18 Spring Fling

22 Out of Africa

23 Fine Dining: Spectrum

24 Buds & Brews

26 Affordable Eats

27 Dining Out: Esra

MeWe

This exclusive new boutique club near Leidseplein offers an intimate haven for an over-25 crowd seeking premium drinks and a sophisticated atmosphere. Indulge in bar bites by Michelin-starred chef Dennis Huwaë complemented by world-class beverages, including Clase Azul México tequila and Louis Vuitton Moët-Hennessy’s luxury wines, Champagnes, and spirits – showcased in their first Dutch flagship store. Reservations are essential (the online membership form is the virtual doorbitch).

KORTE LEIDSEDWARSSTRAAT 14, MEWE.AMSTERDAM

Spring Fling

Berries and vibrant colours

JOSEPH ODOOM (29), HEAD CHEF AT THE WEST AFRICAN FUSION RESTAURANT MOMI

‘At Momi, we focus mainly on West African ingredients, but we pair them with locally sourced seasonal ingredients. Here, you have strawberries and blueberries coming into season. On our spring menu, we have a smoked guinea fowl and macerated berry salad with a red wine and hibiscus reduction. It pops with vibrant colours.’

PUNT SNIEP 107, RESTAURANTMOMI.NL

Brût homeware’s Cubism-inspired recycled glass Claude Carafe at de Bijenkorf) is as green as a spring meadow.

DAM 1, DEBIJENKORF.NL

Blooming Kitchens

Amsterdam’s chefs are turning spring’s most coveted ingredients – white asparagus, strawberries, ramsons and more – into vibrant, mouthwatering creations.

Spring is bursting onto Amsterdam’s menus, and the city’s chefs are diving into the season with unmatched abandon. Star of the show? White asparagus – nicknamed ‘white gold’ for its rarity, exquisite taste and painstaking harvest –always takes centre stage and is hard to miss this time of year. You’ll find twists on the classic Dutch preparation: served simply with butter (or hollandaise sauce), potatoes, ham and a hardboiled egg everywhere from casual canal side eetcafés to fancy fine-dining establishments. Meanwhile, juicy local strawberries and tangy rhubarb add flair to everything from salads to desserts and cocktails, while fresh herbs such as ramsons bring a pop of colour and zest to every plate. We’ve asked six chefs about their springtime inspirations. Get ready to savour the season.

Spring Fling

20 | EAT & DRINK

Fruittuin

van West

Pick over 20 varieties of seasonal fruit including strawberries, raspberries and cherries at this organic orchard. Rent a bike, follow the Haarlemmertrekvaart westwards, and make a day of it.

TOM SCHREURSWEG 48 FRUITTUINVANWEST.NL

Usher in eternal spring with Studio Drift’s dandelight, a Dutch Design classic (€450 atFrozen Fountain).

at

PRINSENGRACHT 645

FROZENFOUNTAIN.COM

White asparagus with strawberries

SIDNEY SCHUTTE (48), EXECUTIVE CHEF AT THE MICHELIN-STARRED DUTCH-INTERNATIONAL RESTAURANT SPECTRUM**

‘After the long, cold winter, when we have mostly root vegetables in the Netherlands, I can’t wait to start cooking with crispy, green vegetables again. We find it very important to show people the best products of the season. My all-time favourite spring ingredient is white asparagus. They can’t farm the real nice and thick white asparagus outside of the season and it’s only available for six weeks, which makes it truly special. You can do so much with it, but one of my signature dishes is a starter with white asparagus, wild strawberries and lovage.’

HERENGRACHT 542-556, RESTAURANTSPECTRUM.COM

Petit pois à la française

THOMAS DEMUTH (29), CHEF & CO-OWNER AT THE FRENCH RESTAURANT TANNAY

‘Green peas from the Provence region are my favourite spring ingredient by far. It’s only available for two months a year. Every spring for more than 10 years, I’ve been doing a version of petit pois à la française, with green peas, little gem, smoked pancetta, onions, a bit of mint and the first strawberries of the season.’

onions, a bit of mint and the first

ZANDHOEK 14, RESTAURANTSCARON.NL/ RESTAURANT/TANNAY

Edible spring flowers

RENATA SZELES (38), FOUNDER & HEAD CHEF AT BRAZILIAN-FUSION

RESTAURANT ELO FOOD BASED

‘I always like to use edible flowers. Last spring we had a dish with a magnolia beurre blanc. This year we’re going in the same direction – each dish will feature flowers like chamomile, hibiscus and jambú [a Brazilian flower with numbing qualities like Szechuan buttons, ed.] in gastriques, vinegars and other elements.’

ADMIRAAL DE RUIJTERWEG 331, ELOFOODBASED.NL

Rhubarb and strawberries

VILMOS DOHNAL (37), HEAD CHEF AT THE INTERNATIONALLY-INFLUENCED BARRESTAURANT NEXT NDSM

Fresh peas and lobster

REMI SIMONS (31), HEAD CHEF AT THE SEAFOOD RESTAURANT PESCA AMSTERDAM

‘I love white asparagus but also morels and the first rhubarb and strawberries. I’m always playing with a combination of these ingredients in spring. So maybe one year I’ll do a dessert with rhubarb and strawberries and the next a starter with rhubarb and asparagus. But my signature, which will be on the menu this spring, is a dessert of fresh strawberries dressed with rhubarb coulis, strawberry kombucha, vanilla crème pâtissière and lovage and coconut sorbet with meringue. Local lamb also usually features on our spring menu, often paired with white asparagus and new onions.’ NDSM-KADE 2, NEXTNDSM.NL

‘We like to use fresh peas in the spring, which we sometimes serve as a minted pea cream with cod, shaved fennel and a fresh beurre blanc. Lobster is also popular as soon as the temperatures go up. In the past, we’ve served it with a Thai spin on bouillabaisse and our Asian sambal.’

ROZENGRACHT 133

PESCA.RESTAURANT

Michelin Festival

This Michelin star event features a street-style festival where 20 chefs from around the world will come together to showcase their culinary artistry. Reserve your tickets at anantara.com.

26 MAY, ANANTARA GRAND HOTEL KRASNAPOLSKY, DAM 9

Top Tips

Enjoy typical Saffa bites such as biltong (dried cured meat), olives and braaied beef tongue at Cape Town Social Club.

Out of Africa

Whether you’re seeking sophistication or a humble local’s favourite for aromatic soups, stews and tagines, Amsterdam has an African restaurant to suit every inclination and budget.

Cape SocialTown Club

This sleek establishment is headed by a dynamic duo who’ve previously worked at esteemed South African restaurants such as The Pot Luck Club, La Colombe and The Test Kitchen. With fusion plates (4-course chef’s menu €63) and a wine list studded with Cape stars to match, they know how to put on a show

RAAMSTRAAT 27

CAPETOWNSOCIALCLUB.COM

Rue d’Alger

This corner charmer lures in passers-by with beautifully arranged crates of fresh produce and the warm aromas of slowcooked spices. Here, co-owners Nadir Soltane and Youcef Ait Ouati serve their ‘Algerian soul food’ in a cosy space with casual seating. No reservations, just daily specials like lamb with couscous or ras el hanout spiced chicken tagine. 1E CONSTANTIJN HUYGENSSTRAAT 29

INSTAGRAM.COM/RUEDALGER. AMSTERDAM

Kilimanjaro Take Me Away

Hearty wot (stews) and freshly made injera (fermented flatbreads) are served family-style at this low-key Eastside eatery that’s usually less rammed than its Centrum namesake. The East African menu is veganfriendly, with over 20 plantbased dishes and raw vegan cakes that are so much better tasting than they sound.

BEUKENWEG 22A

FACEBOOK.COM/KILIMANJAROTAKEMEAWAY2

Fresh Leaves

For authentic central African food, head to Reigersbos, where chef-owner Melissa Ndoma draws inspiration from her Congolese grandmother’s recipes. Bold flavours shine in traditional dishes like aromatic goat meat soup (€17.50) with fufu (a dough-like staple made from pounded sun-dried yams) and her bestselling BBQ chicken salad (€9.50).

SNELLERWAARDGRACHT 11 FRESHLEAVES.NL

Fine Dining

Full Spectrum Flavour

For vibrant and strikingly original Dutch-international fare, head to the elegant two-Michelin-starred Spectrum.

Located on the lower ground floor of the upscale Waldorf Astoria Amsterdam, this fine-dining restaurant has an interior that is as classic and understated as its food, which is contemporary and bright. Executive chef Sidney Schutte seamlessly blends a wide range of Dutch ingredients and international influences in an inventive 12-course tasting menu with bold yet beautifully balanced flavours (€250). Highlights of a recent meal included a delicate rose of dried

egg yolk on shiso and shredded potato topped with trout roe, Sidney’s signature Peking-style duck with tulip bulb and Amsterdamse uitjes (small, pickled onions), a duck skin cracker and bouillon of duck liver and marinated grapes, and a sublime sweet-savoury dessert of Époisses with horseradish and blackcurrant mochi. Impeccable service and carefully considered wine pairings complete the experience. Tip: there is also a fully vegetarian tasting menu (€240). HERENGRACHT 542-556, RESTAURANTSPECTRUM.COM

24 | BUDS & BREWS

Find out more about food and drink in Amsterdam at iamsterdam.com/ restaurants

Homeland Brewery

At an ex-naval shipyard in the heart of Amsterdam, this sustainable electric steam-generated craft brewery has been creating prize-winning beers since 2015. The latest offers a true taste of Amsterdam: IEPa is an IPA brewed with locally collected elm, or iep, seeds (cans from €2.85). It features nutty elm notes, toasted rye and hops, capturing the unique annual ‘spring snow’ phenomenon of elm blossoms blanketing the city’s streets. More on that on page 58. KATTENBURGERSTRAAT 5 PENSIONHOMELAND.COM

Be sure to taste the Saison beer from De 7 Deugden brewery in Sloten, which won gold at the Brussels Beer Challenge. DE7DEUGDEN.NL

For Amsterdam’s 750th birthday, brewery De Eeuwige Jeugd has created specialty beer De Amsterdammer, a hoppy pale ale of 5.5%. The bottle design is made by Kamp Seedorf.

EEUWIGEJEUGD.NL

Cheers to Spring

Amsterdam’s rich brewing heritage hops between tradition and innovation, inspiring its brewers to craft spring beers infused with seasonal botanicals.

Beer has been integral to Amsterdam's culture since the Middle Ages, with the city becoming a significant beer trading hub by the 14th century. The establishment of breweries such as Heineken in 1864 further cemented Amsterdam's brewing legacy worldwide. Today, this foamy tradition thrives as the city’s breweries experiment with local botanicals, crafting unique beers that capture the essence of spring. So, for example, Bird Brewery launched two new local birdlife-inspired beers: Dorstige Duif (‘thirsty pigeon’; 5%), a refreshing sour with a mix of blood orange, sweet mandarin and citrus, perfectly balanced for balmy afternoons. And Soepele Specht (‘smooth woodpecker’) a creamy, full-bodied New England IPA (6.2%) with intense tropical fruit and citrus notes and hints of passion fruit, orange and mango. Mango makes an appearance in two other newly launched beers, too. Last year, Gebrouwen door Vrouwen launched Mango Mañana, a 0.3% New England IPA based on their popular Misty Mango, a hazy New England IPA (6%). This ultra-fruity beer with mango and subtle pineapple tones was made to sip in the sunshine. Lowlander’s juicy new Mango IPA (3.5%) is brewed with mango, cardamom and orange peel. Citrus also features in Oedipus Brewing’s new white beer with clementine and green pepper, which can be tasted at their new Oedipus Craft Space tasting room (Schaafstraat 21) in Noord.

Gebrouwen door Vrouwen

Founded by two sisters, the Amsterdam-based brewery Gebrouwen door Vrouwen (‘Brewed by Women’) started as a hobby using a 35-litre pot. Today, a team of 10 women are creating bestselling beers such as Bloesem Blond, an elderflower-infused blond ale (€5.75 on tap at Gebrouwen door Vrouwen Bar). It tastes fresh, flavourful and slightly sweet. Or try its low-alcohol sibling, Bloesem Bluf.

JAN PIETER HEIJESTRAAT 119D GEBROUWENDOORVROUWEN.NL

Lowlander Botanical Bar & Restaurant

Set in a former marine engine factory, this is the place to get a taste of Amsterdam’s industrial past – and one of its loveliest craft beer brands, inspired by local botanicals. The south-facing terrace, which juts out over the IJ River, is a ship spotter’s wildest fantasy. It’s the perfect place to try Lowlander’s just-released Ginger Beer (from €3.80). Made with real ginger and lime, this spirited brew packs a zingy punch.

GEDEMPT HAMERKANAAL 201, RESTAURANT.LOWLANDER.NL

Top Tips

Find out more about food and drink in Amsterdam at iamsterdam.com/ restaurants

Grab heavenly handmade pork, chicken or veggie jiaozi (€12.50 for 8 pcs) on the go at Yan Yan Fly By Dumpling House. RIJNSTRAAT 229 YANYANDUMPLINGS.COM

Affordable Eats

Craving big flavours on a small budget? Amsterdam has you covered. These wallet-friendly restaurants in and around the city centre deliver on flavour every time, without the hefty price tag.

Kailash Parbat

This centrally located Southern Indian street food spot spills out onto a small canal-side patio, which fills up fast on sunny days. The house chaat (an Indian snack platter, €16), which includes vegetarian dishes such as dahi wada (melt-in-themouth lentil balls with pomegranate yoghurt), bhel puri (chilli-laced puffed rice) and crispy corn baskets, is bursting with colour, texture and flavour.

WETERINGSCHANS 175 KAILASHPARBAT.NL

Madre

The stunning décor, inviting atmosphere and attentive service make this modern Mexican restaurant in the Jordaan a must-visit for vegans and adventurous omnivores alike. For an affordable plant-based dining experience, pop in for the popular Taco Tuesday and score two tacos and a margarita for €23.50 (reservations advised).

WESTERSTRAAT 186 MADRE.AMSTERDAM

Franggo

For authentic frango (Portuguese chicken) with that realdeal flame-grilled flavour, you can’t go wrong at this casual family-owned mini-chain. From €16.50 for a half chicken including a sauce (piri-piri or garlic butter with lemon) and a side (tomato salad, piri-salted fries, rice or a jacket potato) it’s good value too.

EERSTE SWEELINCKSTRAAT 9 FRANGGO.NL

Jinweide

This popular Chinese chain, which opened its first Amsterdam location last December, offers hand-pulled halal noodles rooted in the Hui Muslim community of China’s northwestern Gansu province. Generously portioned bowls of their classic beef hand-pulled noodles (€14.95 or €9.99 at lunchtime Mon-Thurs) include a tea egg and a complimentary side salad such as shredded potato, cabbage, wood ear and carrot. HOBBEMAKADE 63

INSTAGRAM.COM/JINWEIDE.NL

Selin Kiazim and Steph de Goeijen, the driving force behind Esra, champion women in hospitality.

Modern Turkish

Two trailblazers for Turkish cuisine in London just opened their first Amsterdam restaurant in Zeeburg, Esra.

As a born-and-bred Londoner with a Turkish-Cypriot heritage, Selin Kiazim is known for her critically acclaimed Shoreditch restaurant, Oklava.

In December 2024, she opened an intimate restaurant in Zeeburg with her Dutch-born partner Steph de Goeijen, a former restaurant manager at Oklava. At Esra , the à la carte menu features seasonal ingredients from local Dutch suppliers alongside small-producer wines from Turkey and the Med. While the menu changes weekly, Kiazim’s signature style stays true: combining her traditional

Turkish cooking techniques, travel inspirations and previous roles at Peter Gordon’s innovative fusion restaurants in London. Expect zingy countertop meze with Turkish bread, as well as meat, seafood and vegetables cooked over an open fire. From whipped feta crostini with candied pumpkin and slow-roasted lamb with coriander and fenugreek tepsi (a traditional Turkish traybake) to spiced rice pudding with barbecued quince and sumac pecan crumble, everything’s delicious from beginning to end.

C. VAN EESTERENLAAN 35, ESRA.AMSTERDAM

Lauren Comiteau is a journalist and writer who has covered the Netherlands for TIME Magazine, CBS Radio and others since 1996. She lives in Amsterdam with her two daughters and Jack Russell.

WLiving the Vida Local

In this season of rebirth, our columnist Lauren Comiteau rediscovers Amsterdam.

hen I was thinking about what to write for this column, I’d been holed up in my new home knee-deep in half-opened boxes for nearly two weeks. What could I possibly have to say?

I’d been living in the De Pijp neighbourhood for more than 20 years. I raised my kids there, sent them to school, owned a home. I was a regular fixture in the Albert Cuyp Market, where I bought my daily bread, greens, fish and poultry. I’d written articles about the poulter, the fishmonger and the cheese seller. I’d even worked at my friend’s market-side restaurant for a while, learning the ins and outs of this tightknit community of vendors whose daily setting ups and taking downs – a primer in controlled chaos – are the stuff of local legend. Now I’ve headed further east to

the Dapperbuurt. It’s not like I recrossed the Atlantic. But life is lived locally here, from the schools you attend to the shops you patronise to the huisarts, or GP, who takes care of you (and still makes house calls). And after 20 years in one locale, moving even just a 3-kilometre bike ride away did indeed seem like setting sail for a foreign land. But when I leave my boxes behind to come up for air, I find there’s a whole new world out there to discover in a city I thought I knew inside out. Who knew that the lovely and leafy (albeit tiny) Wertheimpark, a stone’s throw from my new abode, is the oldest park in the city? That my local shoe/key maker (Schoenmakerij De Leeuw, Eerste van Swindenstraat) keeps my knives sharp and has the most extensive collection of Sanita clogs I’ve ever come across? That the mouth-watering Syrian

market and eatery, Tigris & Eufraat, on the bustling Javastraat would become my new go-to?

I’ve traded in the Albert Cuyp Market for the Dappermarkt (which is what the Albert Cuyp Market felt like a couple of decades ago before the regentrification of De Pijp was in full swing). I now have the Wereldmuseum instead of the Rijks on my doorstep. My dog chases who-knows-what in the Oosterpark instead of Sarphatipark. There are new routes to discover, new cafés and shopping centres to sample, such as Oostpoort, where my American family can take pleasure in an outdoors mall.

A new life. A new neighbourhood. Fresh faces. I’ve been living in this city for two decades and find myself rejoicing in discovering Amsterdam anew. Imagine what you can unearth in just a few days.

What’s on

Where to go and what to see

BY: PASCALE KAHN

From Rembrandt to Vermeer

32 Feature: Anselm Kiefer

34 Exhibitions

37 Family & Kids

38 Amsterdam 750

41 On a Budget

42 Interview: Derek Mitchell

46 Pop & Rock

47 Classical & Jazz

48 On Screen

51 Clubbing

52 On Stage

9 APRIL-24 AUGUSTHARTMUSEUM.NL

From April onwards, one of the world’s most formidable private collections of Dutch art will be displayed at the H’art Museum. The Leiden Collection, assembled by Franco-American collector Dr. Thomas S. Kaplan and his wife, Daphne Recanati Kaplan, is composed of 75 masterpieces, including an astonishing 17 Rembrandts, as well as works by Johannes Vermeer and Frans Hals. Capturing the spirit of the 17th century through the country’s most accomplished painters, this exhibition is a once-in-a-lifetime opportunity to see these works together.

It’s Amsterdam’s birthday! This label indicates an event is part of the celebrations.

32 | BY: SENAY BOZTAS

Book a tour where’ll you be guided along the highlights in 1.5 hours. There are also guided tours for visitors with a visual impairment and tours in sign language.

Where Have All the Flowers Gone?

In the footsteps of Van Gogh: German artist Anselm Kiefer blooms across Museumplein this spring.

Crowning the staircase of the Stedelijk Museum Amsterdam, in five sections stretching 24 metres, hangs a work by German contemporary artist Anselm Kiefer: Sag mir wo die Blumen sind (‘Where have all the flowers gone?’) It’s a monumental painting by a man born into the debris of post-war Germany, whose work deals with themes such as war, destruction, death and faith. ‘As horrible as the subject is, art becomes beauty,’ he once told a BBC documentary. ‘That’s a curse.’

At a time when wars are still raging and when countries such as the Netherlands admit ‘shadowy’ sides of their past, the Van Gogh and Stedelijk Museums are staging a joint exhibition on this fiery artist. Sag mir wo die Blumen sind is named after his new work and Pete Seeger’s 1955 anti-war song, popularised by Marlene Dietrich.

Remnants of war

Like the war rubble he played in as a child, Kiefer’s paintings incorporate strange materials: straw, ash, clay, medicinal flowers, even lead. ‘He once said that lead is the only material that can carry the weight of our history,’ says Leontine Coelewij, curator of contemporary art at the Stedelijk. ‘It’s also poisonous. He’s often working with materials that are dangerous and can be harmful but also healing.’

Sag mir wo die Blumen sind contains a row of uniforms. There are dried rose petals, photographs, yoga poses, portraits of ancient Greek philosophers such as Heraclitus, who believed everything always changes. A collection of other works and fi lms illustrates how Kiefer draws from poetry, philosophy and alchemy. ‘He’s now 80 and he’s embracing life in its fullness,’ says Coelewij. ‘It’s about war and the absurdity of war, but his work is always very layered.’

Van Gogh’s influence

The Van Gogh Museum will show a brighter side. As a 17-year-old, Kiefer won a travel scholarship to follow the route taken by Vincent van Gogh from the Netherlands to Belgium and France. ‘He expressed himself in a lecture about the influence of Van Gogh on his work,’ says Edwin Becker, the museum’s head of exhibitions. ‘Van Gogh’s new way of seeing landscapes really had an impact on him.’ With the help of tactically placed

cabinets, Van Gogh’s paintings of Sunflowers and Wheatfield with Crows will join Kiefer’s massive works – one of which he called The Starry Night in homage. ‘Kiefer’s sunflower is more in decay. It’s not cheerful, but the link between Kiefer and Van Gogh is their emphasis on the cycle of life,’ says Becker. ‘For Van Gogh, painting was a sort of comfort for the soul: for Kiefer, it questions your existence.’

7 MARCH-9 JUNE, VANGOGHMUSEUM.NL AND STEDELIJK.NL

American Photography Exhibitions

This luminary showcase of American photography invites a glimpse into the spirit of a complex nation. With more than 200 photographs – ranging from the intimate grit of Nan Goldin’s work to the striking monochrome of Richard Avedon’s oeuvre – this portrait of a nation bears witness to the US’ ever-changing visual and cultural identity.

UNTIL 9 JUNE, RIJKSMUSEUM.NL

Verzetsmuseum

Eighty years after the end of World War II, the stories of resistance told by the Verzetsmuseum (Resistance Museum) remain as urgent and necessary as ever. Offering a profound glimpse into life under Nazi occupation, the museum – founded by former resistance members – showcases personal items and harrowing stories of courage and survival, capturing moments of light even in the darkest chapters of human history. Adding to its powerful narrative, the Verzetsmuseum’s new exhibition (opening 18 April) highlights the life of American-born French dancer Josephine Baker, whose defiance of racism and fascism embodies a life of resistance.

VERZETSMUSEUM.ORG

© MING SMITH, AMERCIA SEEN THROUGH STARS AND STRIPES, 1976, VIRGINIA MUSEUM OF FINE ARTS

The Sacred Life of Plants dives into the stories that animate district Nieuw-West’s green spaces.

Samuel van Hoogstraten

The Illusionist

Tracing the legacy of one of Rembrandt’s most experimental and inventive pupils, The Illusionist: Samuel van Hoogstraten highlights the career of this lesser-known 17th-century pioneer. With his life-like paintings and use of perspective, Hoogstraten blurred the lines between art and reality, producing works so convincing they once fooled an emperor. Discover the skill of this master illusionist in the very space where he learned his craft.

UNTIL 4 MAY REMBRANDTHUIS.NL

UNTIL 9 MARCH

VAN EESTEREN MUSEUM

Birth of a City

Based on recent archaeological and historical research, Stadsarchief’s newest exhibition gives you a detailed insight into the daily lives of Amsterdammers in the Middle Ages. The exhibition takes you on a journey through time, revealing how the city was founded and grew. You will see how people lived, worked and built their community. The highlight? The facial reconstruction of ‘the first Amsterdammer’ from around the year 1200.

OPENING 7 MARCH, AMSTERDAM.NL/STADSARCHIEF

Still Processing

The newest exhibit at multimedia museum Nxt heralds the age of algorithms with a show that explores the art of image-making in a technological world. Still Processing portrays the ways in which machine processing and human perception intersect to distort and recreate the visual world. Using AI-generated holograms, kinetic light installations and 3D rendering, seven artists create immersive works that blur the boundaries between reality and fantasy.

UNTIL 5 OCTOBER, NXTMUSEUM.NL

When you see this little card, you get free access with your I amsterdam City Card: iamsterdam.com/citycard

An innovative voice in photography, Saul Leiter captured the poetic of the everyday through his lens. With more than 200 works on display, this extensive retrospective pays homage to a photographer and artist whose visionary eye transformed passing moments into enduring art. In his very own words: ‘Photographs are often treated as important moments, but really they are fragments and souvenirs of an unfinished world.’ This spring, step into Leiter’s very own unfinished world at canal museum Foam.

UNTIL 23 APRIL, FOAM.ORG

EXPERIENCE THE WORLD OF COCKTAILS

text: Alison McGarry and Jayne Robinson

Artis Zoo’s mascot de Partis is a cuddly friend for all Artis fans, big and small.

ARTIS.NL

Family & Kids

Nemo

A haven for curious minds, Nemo Science Museum is a central part of the city’s cultural landscape. The museum’s striking green shiplike exterior presides over the harbour, designed by famed architect Renzo Piano, but it’s what’s inside that truly sets Nemo apart. With its interactive exhibits, children can conduct hands-on experiments, learn why lightning strikes and even design their own rainbow.

NEMOSCIENCEMUSEUM.NL

Liberation Day

This year marks 80 years since the country’s liberation from Nazi occupation and Amsterdam is celebrating big. On 5 May, the city comes alive with celebrations, offering a host of family-friendly events to honour this moment in history. For a deeper dive into history, visit the Verzetsmuseum (Resistance Museum) to explore stories of bravery and resistance.

5 MAY, BEVRIJDINGSFESTIVALS.NL

Jeugdland

A free playground full of adventure, Jeugdland offers a day of creativity, climbing, crafting and outdoor fun. It is four hectares of nature with a cable car, slide mountain, water sports centre, hut village, children's workshop and vegetable gardens. An accessible, fun (and free) place for everyone.

JEUGDLANDAMSTERDAM.NL

King’s Day

A quintessentially Dutch holiday, King’s Day honours the king’s birthday with nationwide celebrations. With plenty of street parties and all-round revelry, King’s Day is often seen as one big festival, but there’s plenty for families to take part in.

One beloved King’s Day tradition takes centre stage: the vrijmarkt – flea markets where locals sell their secondhand wares in iconic spaces such as Vondelpark and the NDSM Wharf. For a cultural touch, the Bredeweg Festival in Oost offers live music, performances and activities for all ages.

26 APRIL

Amsterdam 750

| BY: PASCALE KAHN

Amsterdam celebrates 750 years for a whole year. Want to know everything that’s going on? See iamsterdam.com/ amsterdam-750

DAn Ode to Women

The Amsterdam Museum’s new exhibition, Women of Amsterdam, pays a belated and much-needed tribute to the women who shaped the city’s history.

uring World War II, human rights lawyer Lau Mazirel used her office as a cover for resistance activities. While fighting against injustice, Mazirel also hid persecuted Jews in her home and, in doing so, saved many lives. Never heard of this extraordinary woman? You wouldn’t be the only one. Mazirel is one of the many women who changed lives or history itself, but are nowhere to be found in the history books. Imara Limon, the curator of the exhibition Women of Amsterdam - An Ode in Amsterdam Museum, looks to rectify this historical erasure of

women: ‘The male perspective dominates the history books. This exhibition seeks to change that.’

Bring back the balance

Filling in centuries of silence is a tall order for any exhibition. But this curation – a testament to the resilience and ingenuity of Amsterdam’s women – makes some gains towards establishing a sense of balance. Through photography, audio-visual installations and archival objects, many of these women’s stories are being told for the fi rst time. The exhibition invites residents to nominate a

Elly Brink’s advocacy worked to break taboos around menstruation, paving the way for the global menstrual movement.

woman they believe worthy of an ode so that the women of today are also honoured, whether as innovators, resisters or caregivers.

Trailblazing lives

Walking through the exhibit’s rooms, there is a lot to take in – a staggering amount of stories, as diverse and compelling as the women they represent. Among them are pioneers such as Anna Maria van Schurman, the fi rst woman to attend lectures at a Dutch university, and Carla Lont, Suriname’s fi rst female archivist. Mazirel’s work is honoured in a piece by artist Sarah van Sonsbeeck (pictured left). A soft peachy light projection mimics a window pane. There’s a melancholic sense of doubleness here, as if recalling both the freedom beyond – that world of equality Mazirel fought for – and pointing to the reality of those still trapped behind the window. By spotlighting contributions like Mazirel’s, the Women of Amsterdam exhibit underscores a vital truth: the stories of Amsterdam’s women are as urgent and necessary as ever.

UNTIL 1 JUNE, AMSTERDAMMUSEUM.NL

Amsterdam Eats

What did an Amsterdammer eat in 1675? And in 1951? The Allard Pierson Museum presents Amsterdam Eats: A History in Dishes, a sensory feast that traces the city’s gastronomic evolution over 750 years. The exhibition, which includes cookbooks, menus and archaeological pieces, reveals Amsterdam’s curious tastes and its predilection for mixing flavours from different cultures. From medieval herring breakfasts to postwar nasi goreng, each dish tells a story about the city’s history at the crossroads of culinary culture.

11 APRIL-7 SEPTEMBER, ALLARDPIERSON.NL

Artzuid

The ninth edition of Amsterdam’s renowned outdoor sculpture biennale Artzuid features 60 artworks along a picturesque five-kilometre route. Right in the heart of iconic Dutch architect Hendrik Berlage’s expansive Plan Zuid – which spans the tree-lined boulevards of the Apollolaan, the Minervalaan and the Churchilllaan – you will see works curated by prominent names such as Rudi Fuchs and Roberto Meyer. A public art experience like no other.

21 MAY-21 SEPTEMBER, ARTZUID.NL

24H…

Shebang

The imaginative Shebang Institute represents a watershed moment in Amsterdam’s 750th anniversary. Curated by Charl Landvreugd, this show explores future possibilities for the city, united under the theme ‘A New Map’. At the centre of the exhibit is the Tembe installation, diving into Amsterdam’s diverse neighbourhoods.

UNTIL 1 APRIL, SHEBANGAMSTERDAM.NL

For one whole day, more than 50 locations in one neighbourhood open their doors with behind-thescenes activities, workshops, music and food. The 24 hours festival offers a smorgasbord of events and experiences that reveal the many faces of Amsterdam.

22 MARCH: CITY CENTRE, 12 APRIL: ZUIDOOST, 17 MAY: WEESP IAMSTERDAM.COM

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I amsterdam Magazine

I amsterdam Magazine is Amsterdam’s o cial city guide, packed full of insider tips for what to do and see in the city. With background information on the city’s best sights and events, plus excellent suggestions for discovering lesser-known spots. Written by people who know and love the city, it will take you through everything Amsterdam has to o er day-by-day, pointing out the cherished places we wouldn’t want you to miss out on.

Plus hand-picked agenda listings for music, theatre, clubbing, exhibitions, festivals and family activities, as well as in-depth features on trends, neighbourhoods and more.

Amsterdamse Zeephuis giftbox

This giftbox (worth €29) features locally-made canal house-shaped soaps that you can use as (fragrant) decorations, a gift or, of course, as useful beautiful bars of soap for the kitchen or bathroom. While stock lasts.

• Four magazines a year for €23.75

• Direct delivery to your door

• More than 80 pages of carefully curated tips, features and a handpicked agenda

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Join Amsterdammers for a springtime walk through iconic Vondelpark or little Sarphatipark, or catch a picnic concert in Oosterpark.

Lunchtime concerts

The Royal Concertgebouw’s free lunchtime concerts, which take place every Wednesday, are the perfect mid-week interlude if you’re a classical music enthusiast. A much-loved Amsterdam tradition, these concerts are held in one of the world’s most prestigious music halls, boasting unmatched acoustics and beautiful decor.

WEDNESDAYS, CONCERTGEBOUW.NL

On a Budget

Museum gardens

The city’s art pours into the outdoors at the Rijksmuseum Gardens and the Stedelijk Sculpture Garden. Offering free cultural immersion at its best, the Rijksmuseum’s iconic gardens are a lush escape, with rotating sculptures by artistic heavy hitters such as Auguste Rodin and Barbara Hepworth, as well as fountains, romantic ivy-covered arches and quiet places to read and relax. When you’re there, don’t miss the newly opened Stedelijk Sculpture Garden with contemporary pieces in the entrance hall that reflect the museum’s modern edge.

MUSEUMPLEIN

Free walking tours

With a wealth of free walking tours on offer, you can explore Amsterdam’s history and culture one step at a time. As one of the world’s most walkable cities, Amsterdam is built for exploration on foot. With its picturesque canals, centuries-old landmarks and exciting mixture of neighbourhoods, each with their own distinct flair, a walking tour of Amsterdam is the perfect way to discover the city’s unique historical character. If you want to know more about the city’s tales of diversity and resistance, the Hidden Gems Tour offers a unique lens into Amsterdam’s Jewish, BIPOC, queer and women’s history.

Interview

42 | BY: TOM FLANAGAN

Everybody Loves Derek

Adored for his keenly observed sketches of Dutch culture, comedian Derek Mitchell has won over Amsterdam locals and internationals alike. Now he’s got his sights set on everyone else.

Derek Mitchell (32) had an ordinary upbringing by his own account. Raised in the US in a family that didn’t travel abroad, his life typified a good, happy suburban childhood. But Derek wanted more. Fast-forward two decades and Derek, an Amsterdammer for the past 13 years, has become something of a local name in comedy, thanks to his razor-sharp observational skits about Dutch life and the Brits and Americans who don’t get it. He’s become a massive success online, where he pokes fun at Dutch habits in short sketches,

and offline, with a sold-out Dutch tour and a UK tour this Spring. We sat down with him to chat all things comedy, identity and what he really thinks about the Dutch.

Let’s put a rumour to rest – where are you actually from?

‘The Midwest in the States. I genuinely had the most middle-American, midwestern, traditional white people, suburban upbringing you can possibly imagine. But I studied in the UK and I’m Dutch by passport.’

When did you first think you might like a life abroad?

‘I was always hungry for more. I had this book of stories from places all over the world and there would always be a photo of a child from that place. I remember pouring over it as a kid in the Chicago suburbs, thinking, ‘Imagine if that was your life’. There has to be more out there, more to my life. I’ve got to go see it. I was six years old at this point.’

Those are some big dreams for a 6-year-old. When did moving to Amsterdam happen?

‘I had some hard stuff going on in my family throughout my childhood. I thought at some point, I just have to leave. I was 19 when I met someone who was visiting friends and they had been an au pair in Amsterdam. I thought, ‘That place is cool’. So then I just bought a ticket and went.’

When was the first time you knew you were funny?

‘I was a very serious, pretentious and insufferable kid to be around, who wanted to be Susan Sontag. I was gay too, so I ticked multiple boxes where it’s like, ‘God, I hope I can be funny later on. That will be the thing that saves me in this society.’ My dad, meanwhile, was very

You can find Derek on @letsdoubledutch on Instagram, TikTok and YouTube.

funny but he was also chronically ill for most of my childhood. Then, the summer before eighth grade, I was with my friends Claire and Ben in the backyard and I said something in a way that my dad would say something and they laughed so much. I thought, ‘This is the superpower that my dad has led his life with and now I can do that’.’

On your channel LetsDoubleDutch, you poke fun at Dutch culture. Was there an experience that inspired your sketches? ‘I was in this co-working space and the government had just announced the new lockdown, so everybody was really depressed. I was sat alone eating a sad Albert Heijn salad in the canteen area. Suddenly

‘Comedy is more powerful than anything, even death’

I heard this disembodied Dutch voice say eet smakelijk (literally ‘eat tasty’). And I thought that’s so funny because why are you wishing me that? And then I thought about how we don’t have that in English. We imported bon appetit, but we say that slightly ironically. What’s even more interesting is that we don’t have the urge. Whereas in Dutch that impulse is something you must exercise. I was like, ‘What a fun cultural collision’. Because that Dutch person is doing this in earnest and I so deeply don’t need them to do it. And I never know how to respond. What do I say, ‘Thanks? It’ll be tasty?’. Also, it’s not tasty because it’s an Albert Heijn salad. That became the very first sketch I posted.’

Even when you’re laughing about various cultural norms, your sketches always feel like they come from a place of love...

‘Some people think I’m mocking Dutch culture, and I’m so sorry they think so. Because I love Dutch stuff. I’ve dedicated my life to it. If anything, Dutch logic is the prevailing logic in my sketches over, say, American and British logic.’

Big question now. What could we all learn from the Dutch?

‘To be more honest with ourselves. They have an evolved set of boundaries for themselves – they’re more at peace.’

And what about the Dutch from everyone else?

‘A bit of exaggeration never hurt anyone.’

Your accents are so good and you nail the typical Dutch habits. Do you think this explains your popularity?

‘Language and ways of speaking, and accents and ways of being are things that people consider normal. They take the differences for granted. But for me, these differences are the most interesting part. An understanding of how imperfect cultural stereotypes and nationalities actually are for capturing who you are is one of the reasons why those things make us laugh too. Because there’s so much about these stereotypes that’s simultaneously recognisable and felt, and also completely ridiculous.’

What does comedy mean to you?

‘When I was 19, my dad died. When that happened, I discovered how fi nding the funny in deep darkness and the world falling apart was a survival skill. I could be

text: Alison McGarry and Jayne Robinson

funny and make my mum and my brother laugh. It made me realise that comedy was the only thing I wanted to do for the rest of my life because it’s more powerful than anything, even death.’

People know you from your online sketches, but when did you start doing comedy?

‘I was in the Oxford Review, the very sad equivalent of the renowned sketch comedy troupe Cambridge Footlights. Plus, I worked at the bar in BoomChicago here in Amsterdam and that’s where I thought, ‘I really want to go for this and become a comedian’. I owe so much to that institution and the people who run it.’

So you’ve been performing for some time – but what’s it like having your own live show?

‘It’s really important to me that it’s live. I would never show you a video from the internet in my live show. In fact I don’t even really do those characters in the live show because it’s its own thing. Because frankly, video and online content are radically different art forms and media.’

It seems like you’re living your dream. ‘It feels incredible. I’m grateful for every day and it’s the most wonderful gift I’ve

ever received. It defi nitely feels surreal. And I want to keep doing this forever so I take the responsibility I have to make people laugh seriously. To show them something new, to continually reinvent myself and push myself to go deeper and further.’

Any comedy idols?

‘I always wanted to be Emma Thompson. But don’t we all?’

Acting or comedy – which do you love most?

‘I feel like an actor as much a comedian. I’ve done a lot of stage plays and I like to play serious and dramatic roles too. But it feels like it’s the same thing.

If I’m playing a character in a sketch, depending on the brief, depending on

Derek’s favourite…

…neighbourhood in Amsterdam?

‘Oost. I lived on the Balistraat with some Erasmus students who taught me Polish tongue twisters. That was fun.’

…place in Amsterdam?

‘My friend’s houseboat in the Westerdok. It feels like it harks back to a part of Amsterdam that almost no longer exists.’

…café or bar?

‘De Engelbewaarder, especially in the summer if you can get a spot on the terrace. Or Café Fonteyn – unless you’re over 30 like me because everyone there is so young. The last time I was there, I thought, ‘OK, why does it feel like I’m about to decay in front of you?’’

what the writing is asking you to do, it’s actually a similar muscle. It’s asking you to empathise and to connect with an audience that’s either real or imagined.’

You’ve been on stage touring and even featured in the American comedy show

‘Ted Lasso’ – what’s next?

‘Honestly: you blink and you miss me in Ted Lasso, but it was a great experience. It was my first TV job and I’m very grateful for it. And I’m definitely hoping to do more.’

You’ve lived and travelled to a lot of places. Where’s home?

‘Amsterdam is my home. And, I think, probably always will be.’

YOU CAN FIND DEREK ON TOUR AT:

13 MAY, MEERVAART THEATRE

11 JUNE, THE ROYAL CONCERTGEBOUW

…restaurant?

‘I like Pastis. They have a beautiful, perfectly limited menu that still has new and interesting things on it and a great wine selection. It’s very intimate.’

…comedy place?

‘Vice Versa on Overtoom, Mezrab’s alt comedy night and Clink hostel, which has a queer night called Serve.’

If someone was visiting Amsterdam, what’s the one thing you’d do?

‘I’d say, have a picnic in Vondelpark. Albert Heijn is just made for snacks – no supermarket does picnic snacks like they do.’

Pop & Rock London Calling

Ahallowed site for music discovery, this twoday festival is known to be a launchpad for tomorrow’s stars. With household names such as Snow Patrol and The Libertines having once played this festival before their breakthrough, witness performances by up-and-coming bands in Paradiso’s intimate space before everyone else catches up.

16 & 17 MAY, PARADISO.NL

From his breakout success as a teenage star in the ’90s to establishing himself as a global R&B powerhouse, Usher’s journey has been nothing short of iconic. Now, he celebrates his legendary 30-year career and the release of his ninth studio album Coming home, bringing his timeless sound and irresistible charm to Ziggo Dome concert hall. 22-28 APRIL, ZIGGODOME.NL

Rock, soul and indie come together in the versatile sounds of the Dawn Brothers 2 MAY, ZONNEHUIS.AMSTERDAM

Sarah Klang

With her lush melancholic ballads and distinctive voice, Swedish singer-songwriter Sarah Klang always puts on a memorable show. Slotting effortlessly into the style of stars like Phoebe Bridgers and Lana Del Rey, Klang’s music is set apart by the vulnerability of her lyrics. Following the recent release of her album Beautiful Woman, expect a night of soulful storytelling that blends a vintage Americana feel with a contemporary edge.

28 APRIL, BITTERZOET.COM

Biig Piig

Sultry and introspective, Rotterdam-based Irish singer Biig Piig’s soundscape blends dreamy and genre-defying beats with captivating lyrics. Performing at Melkweg this spring, she dives into her critically acclaimed debut album to deliver a night of magnetic music.

8 MARCH MELKWEG.NL

Experience contemporary chamber music at Plein Theater’s Nieuwe Noten, with adventurous and smallscale performances, new compositions and leading musicians.

PLEIN-THEATER.NL

Classical & Jazz

NoLimit

Every month, Zuidoost’s cosy local haunt NoLimit transforms into a jazz hotspot. A space for both emerging and veteran jazz musicians, the jazz café showcases creative crossovers that push the boundaries of the genre. Performances take place in the small foyer space for an intimate musical experience. BUURTHUIZENZUIDOOST.NL

Splendor jazz club

Mahler Festival

A true highlight of the Royal Concertgebouw’s agenda, Mahler Festival brings together worldclass orchestras and conductors for an exploration of the work of this great German composer who conducted his own symphonies here between 1903 and 1909. Over ten days, Mahler’s symphonies are performed chronologically, taking you through his life and work. Highlights include the Budapest Festival Orchestra’s rendition of Symphony No. 2 under Iván Fischer, and conductor Lorenzo Viotti’s Mahler’s favourites, which off ers an intimate glimpse into Mahler’s personal musical passions.

9-18 MAY, MAHLERFESTIVAL.CONCERTGEBOUW.NL

Splendor’s beloved jazz club brings together an energetic lineup of musicians to improvise and create before your very eyes. Founded by jazz drummer Felix Schlarmann, this lively club hosts musicians from both within the Splendor community and beyond, ignited by a love of jazz’ raw sounds. Forget the seamless or the rehearsed –Splendor jazz club offers music in its most unfiltered and spontaneous form.

SPLENDORAMSTERDAM.COM

Saariaho Festival

The Muziekgebouw aan ’t IJ’s Saariaho Festival is a deep dive into the groundbreaking Finnish composer’s work and legacy. Saariaho’s hauntingly surreal soundscapes capture her meditations on mortality and meaning. Spanning four days, the programme includes an evening of chamber music, a tribute to her love of strings and a closing night that celebrates her musical contributions.

13-16 MARCH, MUZIEKGEBOUW.NL

On Screen

48 | BY: CALLUM MCLEAN

A teenager in suburban Florida desperately hustles to make $5,000 in Boys go to Jupiter, a dreamy and surreal coming-of-age story.

Drawn to be Wild

Kaboom Animation Festival brings innovation and a rebellious spirit to the big screens of Amsterdam.

Film is ‘a machine that generates empathy’: that’s how film critic Roger Ebert famously described the magic of moving images. But add animation into the mix, and the sky’s the limit. ‘Animation is a unique medium – it can communicate every idea and experience,’ explains Aneta Ozorek, artistic director of Kaboom Animation Festival. ‘Artists can build entire worlds, express any identity, and even explore sensitive themes in ways that feel universally accessible – no matter where you’re from.’

Rebellious spirits

The festival began in 2019 but has roots going back to 1985. And it builds on an animation history as

old as film itself: from Disney to Japanese anime to thought-provoking international cinema such as 2007’s Persepolis, about a rebellious Iranian girl growing up during the Islamic Revolution. Persepolis returns to the screen at Kaboom 2025 as part of its theme, ‘I Resist’. ‘This year we’re taking a closer look at provocation – especially, provocative women,’ Ozorek says. Besides Persepolis, this year’s films feature strong female characters including a witch who makes a deal with the devil (Belladonna of Sadness, above), a kind and courageous Japanese girl (Totto-Chan: The Little Girl at the Window, above right) and a tough Lesbian Space Princess. ‘It’s a chance to really shake things up, and showcase animation as a medium for rebellion and change.’

Ozorek’s Kaboom 2025 highlights:

• Illustration Battle: A team of Dutch and Belgian illustrators enter the ring, and only the best drawings will survive.

• Princess Night: For the Dutch premiere of the film Lesbian Space Princess, come dressed up as intergalactic royalty: ‘Crowns, flowing cosmic capes and lots of glitter are a must!’

• Triumph of the Wild concert + lm: Live cello music performances will accompany the films of Martha Colburn.

Innovation in animation

Among all the fun, in other words, are plenty of urgent and mature topics. There’s plenty for kids, but Ozorek is quick to point out that not everything animated is family-friendly, including at Kaboom. ‘Is animation just for children? As long as rain of dicks, spaghetti in vagina and necrophilia (all scenes from this year’s fi lms) are family-friendly,’ she says, sarcastically. ‘Animation is full of stories addressing themes such as identity, activism and social justice. It is becoming more diverse, more inclusive and – as since the very beginning – increasingly innovative.’ This is one way Kaboom truly stands out. ‘Unlike many other festivals, it goes beyond showcasing fi lms: fi lm, virtual reality, augmented reality, video games – and all kinds of experimental installations. Amsterdam is a vibrant hub for innovation and creativity, and that’s why an animation festival such as Kaboom – full of bold, playful and provocative animation – fits here perfectly.’ So whether you’re looking for inspiration, spectacular innovation or harmless fun, this year’s Kaboom has you covered. 21-30 MARCH, KABOOMFESTIVAL.NL

CinemAsia Film Festival

Festival

This vibrant festival showcases the breadth of filmmaking talent from across Asia and its diaspora. This year, it takes place at Studio/K, Rialto De Pijp, Rialto VU and EYE Filmmuseum – including the Dutch premieres of Happyend, by Japanese-American filmmaker Neo Sora, and Fly Me to the Moon, the multi-awarded directorial debut by rising Hong Kong director Sasha Chuk.

6-11 MARCH, CINEMASIA.NL

International Queer & Migrant Film Festival

Connecting vital stories at the intersection of queer and migration-related identities, IQMF is a growing voice in the international film scene. At LAB111 cinema, it champions voices from around the world and celebrates unique stories of resilience and belonging. In their own words: ‘Join us in creating a space where art meets activism, and diversity shines on the big screen.’

8-11 MAY, INSTAGRAM.COM/IQMFF

EYE: Fietsen in Amsterdam

For one night only, embrace Amsterdam’s famous bicycle culture at this special screening programme. On national Bike to Work Day, you can join thousands of Amsterdammers on the bike lanes and pedal to EYE Filmmuseum. There, watch several films centred around bikes, including Kees Hin’s De etser (The Cyclist, 2018) and Fietsen (Cycling, 1965) by Amsterdam legendary photographer and filmmaker Ed van der Elsken.

15 MAY, EYEFILM.NL

Hello, I’m A’DAM - a tower of many talents. A place where you can eat, work, rave, sleep. Repeat. 24/7, all under one roof. Ready to discover some of my stories?

24 hour vertical city

A’DAM LOOKOUT | 20th & 21st floor

Looking for the ultimate high? Visit my observation deck on top of the A’DAM Tower and enjoy my unrivaled panoramic view of Amsterdam, from the city center and its canals to the countryside.

‘Over the Edge’ Europe’s Highest Swing 21st floor

For the daredevils and thrill seekers among us, I have this famous swing that dangles at 100 meters above the ground. Swing back and forth over the edge of the A’DAM Tower with Amsterdam under your feet!

Restaurant & Sky Bar Madam | 20th floor

During the day, the Panorama Restaurant is part of A’DAM LOOKOUT. But as soon as the sun goes down, the music goes up – and the Panorama Restaurant transforms into Restaurant & Sky Bar Madam: Amsterdam’s highest sky bar for casual dining and the best cocktails in town.

Revolving Restaurant Moon | 19th floor

Making a full rotation per hour, Restaurant Moon provides a truly unique gastronomic experience. Let us take you on a fascinating journey through flavors and aromas combined with a fantastic 360 panorama view of Amsterdam.

Shelter | Basement

My underground nightclub is located in the basement of the A’DAM Tower. Known for its Funktion-One sound system and high-tech LED-panel ceilings. Shelter’s iconic hatch is open every Friday and Saturday night from 23 till 6 am.

A’DAM VR | Basement

Descend into the underground A’DAM VR Game & Race Park and discover a world of boundless imagination filled with the most exclusive thrill-seeking simulation rides, sensational free-roaming shooters and exhilarating escape rooms.

Clubbing

DGTL

Iconic music festival DGTL returns to Amsterdam’s NDSM Docklands this April for three days of unparalleled musical immersion. Expect boundary-pushing performances by the best of electronic music –previous years have seen music titans the likes of Ben Böhmer, Honey Dijon and Moderat take to the stage – set against the industrial-chic backdrop of the city’s former shipyard. Techno fan? This is where you want to be. 18-20 APRIL, DGTL.NL

Awakenings Up Close

Techno lovers honour Awakenings as the touchstone for epic parties and Up Close, the slighly smaller version of the huge summer edition, is no exception. Each year, the festival takes over the grassy fields of Spaarnwoude, just a short train ride from Amsterdam, for two days of pure unfiltered sound. With some of the genre’s most celebrated artists spinning in close quarters – think FJAAK, Overmono, I Hate Models and Nina Kraviz, to name a few –this is a techno experience like no other.

On Stage

Icoon

Spell-binding performance Icoon honours the career of Lucinda Childs, the queen of minimalist dance, whose pioneering choreography completely transformed the dance world. From the Dutch debut of Interior Drama to the world premiere of her most recent invention, Icoon captures the world of Childs with mathematical precision, creating elaborate dance patterns that fascinate. With dance by Introdans and a live accompaniment from the National Youth Orchestra, this show presents an exciting glimpse into Childs’ visionary oeuvre.

6 & 7 MAY, ITA.NL

For full listings of what’s on in Amsterdam, visit our website: iamsterdam.com/ whatson

Normality No More

Reflecting difficult and complex experiences of neurodiversity – from ADHD and autism to dyslexia – Normality No More takes you into the depths of the mind. The performance defies conventional ideas of normality. Set to the beloved sounds of Schubert’s Winterreise, this fusion of contemporary dance and classical music explores the beautiful diversity of human experience.

8 MARCH, MEERVAART.NL

Once Upon a Mattress

Theatre company Happily Ever After tells a whimsical tale of an impossible quest for love. This irreverent musical performed at Het Amsterdams Theaterhuis is a reimagining of beloved classic The Princess and The Pea, brimming with humour, comedy and exciting twists and turns of fate. A love story for the ages.

15-30 MARCH HEAPRODUCTIONS.NL

Every Sunday night, Scala blends tapas-style dining with intimate English-language performances featuring anything from live music to magic.

SCALA-AMSTERDAM.NL

The Crucible

Diving into American history, theatre company Inplayers performs Arthur Miller’s The Crucible at Mike’s Badhuistheater – Oost’s quaint English speaking theatre housed in a former bathhouse. The play is a dramatized story of the Salem witch trials of 1692. The founding fathers and farmers used gossip and religious hypocrisy as weapons to steal each other’s land and property. An exciting and chilling theatrical classic.

15-18 MAY, BADHUISTHEATER.NL

Opera Forward Festival

Returning with a week-long programme of bold and exploratory performances and talks, Opera Forward Festival represents the best of new directions in opera. Don’t miss the poignant We Are The Lucky Ones, a musical portrait of a generation born between 1940 and 1949. Based on more than 70 interviews, the opera reflects on the memories and struggles of these individuals as society shifts around them.

14-30 MARCH, OPERABALLET.NL

Delusion 2.0 – The Final Chapter

Blockbuster dance troupe Oxygen takes to the stage of DeLaMar with Delusion 2.0 –The Final Chapter. Dance coach Jennifer Romen’s captivating dance allows her performers to embark on a surreal journey of evolution and discovery. As the protagonist tackles her toughest struggle yet, the performance ends in a blend of dance and illusion. Blacklight, shadow play and projections come together to keep you on your toes. 23 APRIL, DELAMAR.NL

Katherine Ryan – Battleaxe

After conquering the UK comedy scene, comedian Katherine Ryan takes her Battleaxe tour to the stage of Amsterdam’s famed Royal Theater Carré. The Canadian comedian, known for her shrewd and witty humour, blends family anecdotes with social critique. With two Netflix specials, a bestselling book and a popular podcast under her belt, Ryan has fixed her status as one of comedy’s latest and greatest.

23 MAY, CARRE.NL

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Soar over iconic landscapes such as tulip fields, canals, and windmills, with breathtaking visuals, lifelike special effects, and an immersive Flight Experience. Perfect for all ages – book now and be amazed!

Explore Amsterdam’s neighbourhoods City Guide ’s

BY: TOM FLANAGAN

58 Spring snow

Zuid

Zuidoost

Oost

Noord

Centrum

Nieuw-West

National Holocaust Names Memorial

At the heart of the Jewish Cultural Quarter, you’ll find the National Holocaust Names Memorial: a tribute consisting of 102,000 bricks with the names and dates of birth and death of those who were deported from the Netherlands and murdered during the Holocaust in World War II, which ended 80 years ago this May. A sombre and poignant marker of loss, it’s an impressive reminder of Amsterdam’s wounds – including the ones it’s still trying to heal HOLOCAUSTNAMENMONUMENT.NL

BUITENVELDERT

WATERGRAAFSMEER

ZUIDOOST

VLIEGENBOS

GAASPERPLAS

Spring Snow

58 | BY: TOM FLANAGAN

When it’s spring, it snows

Amsterdam is the elm tree capital of the world. And every spring, these slender green giants blossom, blanketing the city in its own kind of snow.

Back in the 1970s, a deadly disease swept through Europe. A fungal pest known as Dutch elm disease wreaked havoc on European elm populations. In the UK alone, nearly 30 million trees died while in France, 97% of French elms were destroyed. By the 1990s, there were very few elms left in continental Europe. Except, that is, in Amsterdam.

Ever since the 1950s, the city of Amsterdam has gone to great pains to preserve its population of elms, conducting annual inspections of the local elms to check for signs of disease and isolating them if found. As a result, Amsterdam is now home to more than 75,000 elms – with 5,000 of those found in its city

centre – making it the elm capital of both Europe and the world.

Spring snow

But why elms? These slender giants have been planted ever since the 1600s. Not just because of their durability in wet, windy and urban environments – and ability to stabilise canal embankments via their roots and combat the smell that came from the open sewers that were the canals – but also because of their aesthetic appeal. They don’t obstruct the canal views beloved by residents and visitors, and provide just enough canopy to make for leafy, shaded streets. And every spring, elms blossom in what’s fondly known as ‘Spring Snow’; a gorgeous natural

An ode to Amsterdam, Marie Stella Maris’ eau de parfum Flower Water (€99 for 75 ml) is a symphony of blooming flowers.

KEIZERSGRACHT 357, MARIE-STELLA-MARIS.COM

COCKTAIL CRUISE

CRUISE AMSTERDAM’S CANALS ON OUR COCKTAIL RIDE

phenomenon where the elm’s seeds are released into the winds, swirling over the city and blanketing it in white.

Taking place between April and May, the best place to witness the blossoming is on the Springsnow route – an 8-kilometre-long journey that takes you from the Elm Arboretum down to the Hortus Botanicus gardens. Here, elms line every viewpoint, and you’ll find the delicate white seeds weaving their way along the Herengracht and Reguliersgracht canals. And although it’s temporary, the elms remain an example of Amsterdam’s resilience and the seeds a reminder of a beauty that lingers with us long after it’s gone.

Tulp Festival

The Tulp (Tulip) Festival marks the moment in time when Amsterdam blooms with one of the country’s most recognised flowers. Dreamt up by garden designer Saskia Albrecht, who wanted ‘a tulip for and from every Amsterdammer’, explore every neighbourhood from Noord to Zuid, with a custom walking route and discover every variety of tulip imaginable.

APRIL, TULPFESTIVAL.COM

Rhododendron Valley

What sounds like something from Tolkien’s Middle-earth is actually a real place in Zuid’s Amstelpark. Home to 8,000 rhododendrons and 139 species, a walk here from April to late May is a glorious, colourful affair that’ll sweep you up into a floral dream for an afternoon. If you’re not done, head to the rose gardens for a sweet-smelling walk.

APRIL & MAY, AMSTELPARK

Cherry blossoms

Forget Japan for cherry blossom viewing, Amsterdam isn’t too shabby either. In fact, the blossom park in Amsterdamse Bos attracts thousands of visitors to its pink-hued realm. In spring, this green enclave turns pale red- and salmon-coloured as the blossoms work their own brand of magic over this corner of the city.

APRIL, AMSTERDAMSE BOS

Zuid

Grab an expertly frothed cappuccino at cosy, living-room-style café Pipes & Beans located in a vintage clothing store.

RIETWIJKERSTRAAT 35 INSTAGRAM.COM/PIPESANDBEANS

‘For my weekly baked goods, I go to Grammes at Maasstraat 16. Their almond croissant is really something else!’

Michelle (27), nurse and clothing designer

Tree-lined, plush and palatial, Zuid knows how to make a first impression – and leave a lingering one.

For more information on Amsterdam Zuid, check out the Neighbourhood Guide on our website: iamsterdam.com/ neighbourhoods

Baobab

In Baobab’s first store in the Netherlands, you can score scented candles the size of champagne coolers, with handblown glass holders, and inspired by the varied landscapes of Africa. Beyond these, you’ll find perfumes, hand creams and soaps, all in entry-level sizes too.

CORNELIS SCHUYTSTRAAT 15

Anne Frank

Everyone knows the Anne Frank House, but not everyone knows about the Anne Frank sculpture. Perched in the middle of green Merwedeplein, the small sculpture depicts Anne packed with her bags, looking back on her family home (Merwedeplein 37-II) one last time before heading to their Prinsengracht hideout. Thoughtful and poignant, this serves as a great start- and end point for a walk along the quiet and hidden away Amstelkanaal.

MERWEDEPLEIN

Brio

The brainchild of the same people behind brunch hero Little Collins, Brio is conveniently located just next door. A contemporary Italian restaurant with a dash of Aussie panache, it packs a punch when it comes to ambience and inventive fresh pasta dishes. Stop by for long, languid dinners or hearty brunches on the weekends.

EERSTE SWEELINCKSTRAAT 23, RESTAURANTBRIO.NL

Zuidoost

Zuidoost’s booming cultural scene and worldy cuisine make it a modern metropolis of a neighbourhood.

The Forest Clothing

Bijlmerweide Petting Zoo

Love a day out on the farm? Venture to the outskirts of the Bijlmer and you’ll discover a vast green meadow where baby cows, donkeys and bunnies graze on the green. And as it’s a petting zoo, kids are allowed to get close and pet the animals. There’s also a playground and canteen, making this the perfect place for a complete and wholesome family day out.

PROVINCIALEWEG 46A

Get a warm stack of Johnnycakes –small, deep-fried corn buns – from Zuidoost’s queen of Caribbean treats at Yvette's Kitchen. BIJLMERPLEIN 689 YVETTESKITCHEN.NL

Created by local Nydel Forgweh, The Forest Clothing looks to the nature of Cameroon – where Forgweh was born – for fashion inspiration. A mix of urbanwear and streetwear, from hoodies and varsity jackets to embossed luggage, headwear and scarves, there’s something for the modern metropolitan man, woman and child here.

BIJLMERPLEIN 149

THEFORESTCLOTHING.COM

Tree of Dates

While the name might suggest something referring to romance, the only love found here is the kind for the sticky, toffee-like date fruit. A veritable paradise for those with a sweet tooth, this artisanal store focuses on all manner of foods made with dates; from brittle chocolate chunks and chocolate-covered dates to date-filled cheesecake. The coffee, made with a date-infused house brew, is good too – best enjoyed with a stroopwafel filled with date syrup.

BIJLMERPLEIN 89B, INSTAGRAM.COM/TREEOFDATES

‘I go to Toko De Poort and Toko Gein for roti dishes. In the warmer months, I walk and bike around Gaasperplas.’

Teun (27), interior designer

Oost

Wooded parks, thronging squares and an international community, Oost brings the best of every world together for a true neighbourhood feel.

Stork watching

While herons typically steal the show in Amsterdam, in Park Frankendael, it’s storks that are the stars. A pair of white and black-feathered wonders breed in the park every year and are usually spotted on the large brick chimney located in the park’s centre. Catch them brooding on the nest or if you’re lucky, you will see the chicks taking off for their very first flight.

PARK FRANKENDAEL

Visit the tiny coffee stand for Indonesian speciality brews Hejo Co ee, and try their coconut-infused iced-sugar latte.

JAVASTRAAT 15 INSTAGRAM.COM/HEJOCOFFEE

Casa Guitarra

you’re a guitarist or not, this

Oost has its very own guitar hero in the form of Ahmad Naffory, the owner of Casa Guitarra. A haven for guitar lovers, this store sells both classical and flamenco guitars, with the most beautiful options made by Naffory himself. Whether you’re a guitarist or not, this store is as good a reason as any to visit the Czaar Peterstraat, often considered to be one of Amsterdam’s best artisan shopping streets.

CZAAR PETERSTRAAT 205 CASAGUITARRA.NL

Turbo

Mid-century decor, ambient lighting and a gourmet croquette are just some of the things you’ll find at all-day café Turbo – a place for breakfast, lunch, dinner and everything in between. Popular plates include steak tartare, meatball subs and a katsu fish sando. Beyond the food, you’ll find great coffee and an extensive wine list too. REINWARDTSTRAAT 1, TURBOAMSTERDAM.NL

‘Every weekend I walk down Javastraat, visiting secondhand shops De Buurtkringloop and We Are Vintage. A Moroccan coffee at Qahwa d’Or is a must.’ Gonzalo (24), student INSIDER TIP

Noord

With industrial charm, expansive streets and art-bountiful parks, Noord might just be a ferry ride away, but it’s a world of its own. RUGGED REINVENTION

For more information on Amsterdam Noord, check out the Neighbourhood Guide on our website: iamsterdam.com/ neighbourhoods

Tula Cantina

Sichuan Territory

Spicy sichuan food has earned itself a reputation in Amsterdam courtesy of the Zeedijk’s array of excellent Chinese eateries. But at Garage Noord, a new Sichuan restaurant injects some heat and flavour into this corner of the capital. Cooked up by Chef Lang Jibo, tuck into the Boiling Sea Bass, Mapo Tofu, Palace Green Beans and Sichuan Palace Eggplant and you’ve got a tasty, spicy affair on your hands.

GEDEMPT HAMERKANAAL 40, SICHUAN.AMSTERDAM

Figo Vintage

A store for all your clothing desires, Figo Vintage is a colourful addition to Noord’s booming vintage scene. It’s Amsterdam’s self-proclaimed biggest (vintage) shop and at 1,000m2, you’ll be hard-pushed to find a space as large and one with as much choice. Kaleidoscopic 80s clothes, every denim imaginable and an entire section with sportswear make this a sustainable shopper’s paradise.

ASTERWEG 38, FIGOVINTAGE.COM

Arcane sculptures gather in silent green Beeldenbos that serves as Noord’s own secret garden.

NIEUWENDAMMERKADE 20A BEELDENBOSNOORD.NL

Mezcal is having a moment and Tula Cantina is another venture making it the star of the show. Every morning, you’ll find freshly baked concha (a type of sweet brioche-like bread) while at night, mezcal-based cocktails lead the lineup. There’s also horchata (a Mexican rice-based drink) and corn bread, meaning you’ll be swept off to sunnier lands.

SCHAAFSTRAAT 4B INSTAGRAM.COM/TULA.CANTINA

‘NDSM is a hotspot for creatives. I love going there for a workshop at Treehouse or looking at the authentic printing presses at the Grafische Werkplaats Amsterdam.’

Anna (31), product designer and ceramist

INSIDER TIP

West

At Circular Store –NoWa & Nature Bar you’ll find sustainable jewellrey and products like soap made of leftover orange peels from a local juice bar.

HANNIE DANKBAARPASSAGE 45 THISISNOWA.COM

© LISA VAN ZELM

© KOEN SMILDE

‘I’m a volunteer at the Tuin van Jan, a hidden garden in the middle of the Baarsjes neighbourhood. I tend to the plants there and chat with my neighbours.’

Ben (75), retired

Teeming with life and endless new enterprises, past, present and future collide in the city’s westerly quarters.

For more information on Amsterdam West check out the Neighbourhood Guide on our website: iamsterdam.com/ neighbourhoods

Farine

Bos en Lommer (BoLo) is known for its sweep of excellent Turkish bakeries. But a French bakery has long evaded its grasp. That is until Farine came along. Here, you’ll find a gorgeous array of golden baguettes, pain au chocolat and some of the city’s best croissants. Better yet, the coffee’s good too.

BOS EN LOMMERWEG 96 INSTAGRAM.COM/FARINE.

Sunday Market Westerpark

Shop Amsterdam-style at this Sunday market, where designers, artists and other creatives sell their wares directly to the public. You’ll find stands with housewares, ceramics, fashion, vintage items, jewellery, accessories, illustrations, affordable art and kids’ products. Plus there’s plenty of organic food and drinks available from indoor and outdoor cafés. Apart from shopping and snacking, there’s lots to do for children and adults alike, including creative workshops, live music and picnicking in the park.

FIRST SUNDAY OF THE MONTH, 12-18 PM PAZZANISTRAAT 33, SUNDAYMARKET.NL

Ferry

While Noord typically has claims over the city’s water and ferries, industrial Houthavens is part of West and home to the inspired restaurant Ferry. A gorgeous modern eatery overlooking the IJ River, the restaurant takes its name from the century-old ferry it’s housed in. Here, barbecued meats and vegetables mingle with Spanish-inspired dishes to bring a sunlit affair to the northwestern corner of the capital. HAPARANDADAM 50, FERRY-AMSTERDAM.COM

Centrum

For more information on Amsterdam Centrum check out the Neighbourhood Guide on our website: iamsterdam.com/ neighbourhoods

The capital’s centre has seen it all, but its lasting charm lies in the parts that still remain unseen after all this time. CANAL-CUT CHARM

View on the canals

The unassuming Grachtenmuseum (Museum of the Canals) is one of the centre’s best-kept secrets and its latest exhibition pays tribute to the canals it calls home. Twenty-five artists provide their own ‘view’ on the canals. Through paintings, photography sculptures and poetry, each work invites you to look beyond the canals’ watery surfaces and admire their depth.

Astrid & Miyu

UNTIL 30 MARCH, GRACHTEN.MUSEUM

Legendary FrenchBelgian kitchenware brand Le Creuset offers a chance to own its colourful, cast-iron cookware at the Le Creuset Pop-up Rokin. ROKIN 21, LECREUSET.NL

The London-based jewellery brand has made a home in Amsterdam, with its first shop opening in The Nine Streets late last year. Sleekly set up with light wood sliding doors and coffee tones, this shop is for those after contemporary jewellery options – such as delicate gold bracelets and earrings – and a place to get any potential piercing done.

RUNSTRAAT 12A

EU.ASTRIDANDMIYU.COM

Oslo

Scandinavians know their way around pastries, and Oslo brings the Nordics’ knack for all things sweet to the Dutch capital. Serving up swirling cinnamon buns and golden-glazed cardamom buns daily, as well as a solid cup of coffee, chai or matcha, consider Oslo your go-to spot in the Jordaan when the sun rises. And if the pastries really win you over, you can always buy a frozen batch to take home with you along with a range of other artisan goodies.

PRINSENSTRAAT 16, OSLO.AMSTERDAM

‘Café Fonteyn is basically my front garden, back garden and extended living room all in one. I go here almost every day to have a drink and meet neighbours and friends.’

Daan (28), tattoo artist

CLAUDIA OTTEN, VREEMDE VOGEL

Nieuw-West

PARKS & RECREATION

Buiten

A lakeside hideout, Buiten (which translates to ‘outdoors’) has recently reopened and looks better than ever. Situated right on the Sloterplas Lake, Buiten is an all-day beach café and restaurant for brunch, lunch and dinner. In the spring, enjoy its shaded garden punctuated with pink decor, while when the temperatures drop, retreat inside to a rustic-industrial space where beers are best sipped looking out onto the lake.

TH.J. LAMMERSLAAN 3, BUITEN-AMSTERDAM.NL

Cinema De Vlugt

Unconventional hangouts and waterside escapes lend Amsterdam’s greenest neighbourhood

Baklava at Plein ’40-’45

A beloved pastry the world over, baklava reigns supreme on Plein ’40-’45. Whether that’s at Royal Baklava, for a luxurious box of pistachio and honey-covered sweets, or at renowned Serifoglu Café & Patisserie, where rows and rows of these golden desserts greet you upon wandering in. Either way, there’s no bad choice and they all make for a great spot to break fast during Ramadan.

PLEIN ’40- ’45

ROYALBAKLAVA.NL, SERIFOGLU.NL

Worlds come together at this small-scale indie cinema. Located on Plein ’40-’45, it screens anything from blockbusters to quirky international cinema. Although it ’s housed in the Vlugt cultural house, the cinema is a standout venue on its own; perfect for a beer whether you’re watching a film later or attending one of the centre’s cultural workshops.

BURGEMEESTER DE VLUGTLAAN 125, CINEMADEVLUGT.NL

‘I visit Sloterplas Lake regularly, for walks, little naps in the sun, reading books and, on warmer days, it’s a great spot to have a picnic with friends.’

Yael (28), artist

AMSTERDAM & REGION TRAVEL TICKET TRAVEL WITH THE

by bus, tram, metro & train

Buy your ticket here

Scan the QR-code for more information and online ticket sales or purchase your ticket at the ‘I Amsterdam Store’.

Day Trips

Discover the Amsterdam Area

BY: TOM FLANAGAN

74 Feature: forts 78 Castles & Gardens

New Land

Haarlem

Weesp

Flowers

Old Holland

Beach

Tulips galore

It’s often a surprise that the tulip is not the country’s national flower (that title goes to the daisy). Still, that doesn’t stop the tulip from dazzling, and the Tulip Experience Amsterdam is for anyone who adores them. Home to a picking garden, museum and rows of tulip fields, this experience encourages flower-seekers to be mindful of their impact on these plants while still snapping that coveted picture. 20 MARCH-11 MAY, TULIPEXPERIENCEAMSTERDAM.NL

| BY: TOM FLANAGAN

74

Fly over the Defence Line of Amsterdam via Fort Pampus and discover its watery history with a virtual hot-air balloon tour FROM 1 APRIL, PAMPUS.NL

Fantastic Forts

Forty-six forts surrounding Amsterdam once protected the city from attack. They’re still there, but all transformed into something else.

Among the golden fields of Beemster, a grassy mound cuts an unusual picture of an otherwise flat land. This is Fort Beemster, a one-time defensive fortification built as part of the Defence Line of Amsterdam to help the city withstand any attack. But things around here have since changed. Beyond its stony exterior, this fort has been revived as something entirely new. Inside you’ll find stateof-the-art spa facilities, while its former ramparts have been transformed into a serene garden decked out with a pool, private island and saunas. What was once Fort Beemster is now Fort Resort Beemster. It’s by no means the only example of a repurposed fort. Fort Pampus, once the forerunner of the Defence Line, has swapped its role as an island fort

to an island for food. Elsewhere, Fort Vijfhuizen is now Kunstfort Vijfhuizen, a recognition of its new status as a contemporary centre for art.

Far from floods

While these updates have been sensitively done, they’re a far cry from the forts’ original purpose. Built between 1815 and 1940, the Defence Line of Amsterdam (which, together with the New Dutch Water Line, formed the Dutch Water Defence Lines) was designed to protect the capital from potential invasion. These forts, serving as viewpoints to spot incoming forces, could flood the land surrounding them, and with it immobilise and even wash away enemies. Cleverly, the water would only reach knee height – too deep for man and horse to move, but too shallow for boats.

These forts have long proved that they can be almost anything

Defence Line

Learn all about aerial warfare in World War II at Crash Museum Aalsmeer.

From useless to useful

Made up of 46 forts – or 96 if you include the New Dutch Water Line –the Dutch Water Defence Lines was built in time for World War I. But they were never used. Come World War II, the rise of air warfare rendered them less useful to the military. Even when the lands were flooded, the enemy just ended up flying overhead. Since then, the forts have been used for everything from political imprisonment (check out the murals at Fort Spijkerboor) to munitions stores. But their loss of defensive status in 1960 and sale to municipalities begged the question: What happens next? Fortunately, these forts have long proved that they can be almost anything –apart from a defence in wartime. 76 | DAY TRIPS

Don’t miss these...

OUR SELECTION OF THE FORTS THAT ARE WORTH A VISIT.

q THE EASTERN OUTPOST Naarden

From the air, Naarden’s unique fortress layout resembles a gigantic snowflake and it was used as a rallying point for Allied bombers during World War II. Explore the green ramparts and underground passages of the Vesting (Fortress) Museum, try your hand at fencing and archery, or watch the 200-yearold cannons fire on Cannoneers Day, each third Sunday of the month.

VESTINGMUSEUM.NL

w THE SPA

Fort Resort Beemster

Deep in the Beemster Polder, this fort-turned-luxury spa has it all. From saunas and salt baths to wholesome food and luxe body treatments, pamper yourself in stunning surroundings.

FORTBEEMSTER.NL

e THE ARTIST’S HIDEOUT

Kunstfort Vijfhuizen

A fort-turned-contemporary centre for art, Kunstfort Vijfhuizen is home to a curated exhibition programme plus a restaurant, and garden producing artisanal honey. Ringed by water, this museum makes for a gorgeous afternoon out. KUNSTFORT.NL

Dutch Water Line

Forming part of the Dutch Water Defence Lines, the New Dutch Water Line is a series of forts and locks that used existing bodies of water to flood surrounding areas as a defence mechanism. Created between 1815 and 1940, it spans 85km from Zeesluis Edam to Fort Bakkerskil (now a B&B).

HOLLANDSEWATERLINIES.NL

r THE LEGENDARY ISLAND

Fort Island IJmuiden

An island fortress located near IJmuiden, this is one of the Netherlands’ most notorious forts and opens every first Saturday of the month (this spring on 2 March, 6 April and 4 May). Half underground, this is the largest building in the Defence Line of Amsterdam. If you book a tour, you’ll take the ferry from IJmuiden which takes you to the island in about five minutes. It’s a real treat. FORTEILANDIJMUIDEN.COM

t THE SECRET LAIR

Fort Pampus

What looks like a normal island is actually a submerged sea fort. After a restoration in 2007, you can now visit Fort Pampus by boat and explore its secret tunnels or embark on a culinary adventure on this mysterious fortress island. PAMPUS.NL

y THE LABYRINTH

Fort in Edam

Roam through the dark passageways, encountering hands-on exhibits dedicated to military history and local wildlife, or join a guided tour. The fort is located in a nature reserve, so you might spot birds while you’re there. OPEN FROM APRIL, FORTBIJEDAM.NL

Castles & Gardens

Moated castles, patchworks of forest and grand estates await, where visitors can escape to a quiet, green land.

Find out more about day trips to Castles & Gardens on iamsterdam.com/ castles

Emerald Kingdom

Henri Martin & Henri Le Sidaner

Laren’s premier museum presents a special double exhibition by artists and friends Henri Martin and Henri Le Sidaner (we’re calling it Henri & Henri). Focused on their serene depictions of natural scenery and hushed towns, this showcase takes you into an idyllic and romantic world of impressionism – casting a romantic spell you won’t want to come out of.

UNTIL 11 MAY, SINGERLAREN.NL

Pinetum Blijdenstein

Hidden away along Hilversum’s western perimeter in a quiet residential patch is the city’s botanical gardens, a veritable bounty of green. It’s home to one of the world’s most complete collections of conifers for anyone who loves these cone-bearing trees. Alongside those, the gardens are home to rhododendrons, cycads, ephedras and tropical-filled greenhouses. Venture here by bike and then wander the garden’s meandering paths under swaying conifers.

PINETUM.NL

Deer spotting

Just outside Hilversum, you’ll find the Corvers Forest, where blooming fields come to life in the spring before glinting into gold in the summer. No matter the time of year, you’ll be able to spot deer trotting delicately through wooded paths and forested glades. Follow these quiet animals down beech avenues until you stumble upon one of the region’s last honeybee forts at Bijenschans Corversbos.

NATUURMONUMENTEN.NL/ NATUURGEBIEDEN/CORVERSBOS

How to get there

Singer Laren Museum: Take the train from Amsterdam Central to Hilversum, transfer to bus 108 or 109 to Laren (50 minutes)

Hilversum: Take the train from Amsterdam Central to Hilversum station (20 minutes)

At Batavialand, a show-stopping reconstruction of a Dutch East India Company ship, you can learn seafaring trades like sailmaking and knot tying.

Entirely reclaimed from the sea, the Netherlands’ youngest province proves that human hands can shape even the wildest natural environments.

Wilderness & Wildlife

New Land

NATURE RETURNS | 79

Find out more about day trips to New Land on iamsterdam.com/ newland

De Kemphaan Estate

For an adventurous day out, head to De Kemphaan, where you’ll find Fun Forest Almere, perfect for kids who want to climb and zipline. Take a break at one of the local restaurants or even spend the night in one of the estate’s camping pitches or tipi tents. In the morning, head over to Stichting AAP to observe the rescued monkeys, with guided tours of the Monkey House organised on weekends.

OPEN AT WEEKENDS (PLUS WEDNESDAYS, FROM APRIL) KEMPHAAN.NL

Animal spotting in Lelystad Nature Park

Spot otters, storks, wild boar, moose, European bison and Père David’s deer at Lelystad Nature Park. While the animals aren’t always easy to spot, the otters are fed daily at 3 pm, meaning you’ll guarantee at least one sighting. Elsewhere, chat with foresters at the visitor’s centre, who’ll be happy to tell you all about the animals and the area. At the park’s centre is Restaurant Hajé, perfect for a coffee after a morning stroll.

FLEVO-LANDSCHAP.NL

Oostvaardersplassen cycling tour

A sweeping wetland cut by grass and water –and fenced by forest – this is a gem of a cycling route, perfect for those who love nature at its wildest. Fifty years ago, the area used to be a swamp, but these days, you’ll more likely encounter cattle, Konik horses and red deer than bogs and shrubland. Start and end at Oostvaardersplassen Visitor’s Centre, which has a large terrace with unrivalled views of the area.

How to get there

Almere and Lelystad:

- Take the train from Amsterdam Central to Almere Centrum station (20 minutes)

- Take the train from Almere Centrum to Lelystad Centrum station (14 minutes)

New Land National Park & Oostvaardersplassen:

- Take the train from Amsterdam Central to Almere Oostvaarders station. From there, it’s a 20-minute walk to the Visitor Centre (60 minutes), From Lelystad Centrum, it’s a 20-minute bike trip.

Haarlem

One-day music festival

Bevrijdingspop celebrates peace, democracy and freedom in the Netherlands on Liberation Day. 5 MAY, BEVRIJDINGSPOP.NL

Find out more about day trips to Haarlem on iamsterdam.com/ haarlem

With storied streets and romantic spires, Haarlem’s weave of cobblestone paths is alive with charm and history.

Gabled Charm

Dolly

Bellefleur 35 years on the barricades:

Let Love Rule

Haarlem’s city museum, Verwey Museum, puts on a special drag tribute to activist and cabaret act Dolly Bellefl eur, examining her contributions to LGBTQI+ rights and her continued crusade for justice. A figurehead of the Dutch LGBTQI+ movement since 1989, this exhibition explores Bellefl eur’s work with visual artists over the past decades to bring subjects such as discrimination, bullying and exclusion to a wider audience, all done with her whimsical touch.

UNTIL 11 MAY

VERWEYMUSEUMHAARLEM.NL/DOLLY-BELLEFLEUR

In den Uiver taproom

Flower parade

Every town has a bar that’s seen it all and in Haarlem, that’s In den Uiver. A former fishmonger that is now the city’s largest independent taproom, it was founded back in 1981 by a KLM purser who named it after the C-2 plane ‘De Uiver’ (Stork). Here, you’ll find 40 different beers on tap, best enjoyed out on the square or deep into the night when those spring storms inevitably hit.

RIVIERVISMARKT 13

BIERLOKAALDEUIVER.NL

Just as enticing as the name sounds, the Bollenstreek Flower Parade is arguably the country’s most famous. This spring festival celebrating the flowers that call the Netherlands home sees cars and floats decked out in all manner of joyous and radiant floral arrangements journey along a 42-kilometre route from Noordwijk aan Zee to Haarlem.

12 APRIL, BOLLENSTREEK.NL

Living room-style café ’t Hoekje makes staying indoors for hours easy. The generous slices of pie don’t hurt either.

NIEUWSTAD 72, HOEKJEWEESP.NL

A 700-year-old fortified town, Weesp’s protected city centre is a cluster of cosy cafés, soaring church steeples and photogenic drawbridges.

Sleeping Beauty

Find out more about Weesp at iamsterdam.com/ weesp

Shopping at Slijkstraat

One of Weesp’s premier shopping streets, this slender avenue is filled with boutiques and artisanal shops. Stop by Pezzi Pazzi for children’s books galore, Ballpark Store for menswear, Pronk for delectable cheeses and Brak Bierboetiek for craft beers. End your shopping spree with a bite at café-diner ’t Weesperplein for home comforts or Restaurant Harmsen for something more upscale.

SLIJKSTRAAT

Weesp takes a starring role in Amsterdam’s 750-anniversary story this May with an all-day event showing off its best sides. Expect open monuments, street parties and plenty of activities, whether that’s beer tasting at the Wispe Brewery or exploring the storied Fort Ossenmarkt. 17 MAY, IAMSTERDAM.COM

SpaWeesp

While a hidden spa may still be slightly beyond reach, hiding in a spa – at least from the hustle and bustle of work – is possible at SpaWeesp. Here, expect to be pampered with the various packages, sauna rituals and infusions, or explore at your own leisure. Complete with a restaurant and an on-demand drinks service while you relax on your lounger outside, this is a little slice of bliss when you need it most.

BASISWEG 1, SPAWEESP.NL

The Keukenhof flower garden is an unmissable attraction in the Flower Strip. And when you book a tour from Amsterdam, you’ll get the most out your day alongside the best views.

Where Flowers Bloom Keukenhof

Grab a 25% discount on your Keukenhof tours when you use the codeAmsterdam20

The Keukenhof has seen it all. From marriage proposals to medieval and fantasy festivals, there’s always a little magic in this realm. And while not everyone can expect a declaration of love on their visit to the Keukenhof, beauty and awe are, at the very least, guaranteed. Located in the quiet town of Lisse, the Keukenhof is one of the Amsterdam region’s crown jewels – dubbed ‘the most beautiful spring garden in the world’. It’s home to a staggering seven million flowers planted

across a 32-hectare park, which take on a range of bright hues in the springtime.

To get there, try one of the many tours on offer, from the classic entry to Keukenhof and round trip via shuttle bus from Amsterdam to a full-day tour of the garden, tulip farm and windmills. There’s even a tour combining Keukenhof and the iconic Zaanse Schans windmills. But be quick, as beauty is fleeting – this annual spectacle is open for just eight weeks to coincide with the flowering season.

Getting there

Many of the tours include a roundtrip shuttle from Amsterdam but for flexibility, a Hop On Hop Off tour from Amsterdam to Keukenhof by coach lets you enjoy things at your own pace, whether that’s covering the gardens in a few hours or taking it slow. Plus there’s guaranteed seating 20 MARCH-11 MAY HOPONHOPHOLLAND.COM

Blissful waterside terrace for breakfast and lunch Het Tuinhuis is perfect for pre- or post-boat ride coffee.

TUINHUISAALSMEER.NL

The world-famous flower strip is the ultimate springtime day trip, with hushed gardens, serene lakes and blossoming fields.

Days of colour

Find out more about day trips to the Flower region on iamsterdam.com/ flowers

Flowers

BLOOMING SEASON | 83

De Groene Bollenschuur

Aalsmeer Historical Gardens

Explore the greenhouses of yesteryear at the Aalsmeer Historical Gardens, home to a vast selection of long-forgotten strains of plants and fruits. Every last Saturday of the month, from 1 April, the auction house hosts a gorgeous flower and plant auction. Afterwards, book a nearby boat tour by Westeinder Rondvaart. On this one-hour cruise, a knowledgeable skipper will whisk you past the sprawling islands of the Westeinderplassen, teeming with horticultural history and local wildlife.

HISTORISCHETUINAALSMEER.NL

WESTEINDERRONDVAART.NL

The green barn (pictured) parked in the middle of a flower field doesn’t look much like a bed & breakfast, but this historical bollenschuur (‘flower bulb barn’) has turned into a beautiful surprise. De Groene Bollenschuur in Hillegom will place you right at the heart of the bulb region in bloom, and with light and spacious rooms and all the amenities for a comfortable night’s sleep, you’ll be well-rested before you head off to Keukenhof.

DEGROENEBOLLENSCHUUR.NL

How to get there

Keukenhof: Take a bus tour from Amsterdam, hoponhopoffholland. com/bus-tours/ keukenhof-tours or take bus 852 from Amsterdam RAI station to bus stop Keukenhof (35 minutes)

Aalsmeer: Take the train from Amsterdam Central to Hoofddorp station. Transfer to bus 340 to Aalsmeer (60 minutes)

Keukenhof

No mention of spring would be complete without mentioning the region’s crown jewel: the Keukenhof. Read more on these beautiful spring gardens on the previous page. Once you’ve seen the gardens, head to Keukenhof Castle, which boasts an impressive history plus an art museum, café and petting farm. KEUKENHOF.NL

Hillegom: Take the train from Amsterdam Central to HeemstedeAerdenhout station. Transfer to bus 250 to Hillegom (70 minutes)

Old Holland

With its picturesque fishing villages, artisan makers and lush windmill-studded landscapes, discovering this region feels like stepping back in time.

See Zaandam through Monet’s eyes at MonetAtelier, where you can admire 25 replicas of his work.

MONETINZAANDAM.NL

Windmill Country

Cycling the Beemster Polder

When exploring this UNESCO World Heritage Site, it’s best to go by bike. And there’s no better time to explore the Beemster Polder than during the spring along the Beemster Tulip Route. Glide past flowering fields, scenic waterways, forts, restored mills and the many stolpboerderijen (‘bell-jar farmhouses’) – views of which are worth the trip alone.

VISITBEEMSTER.NL

Find out more about day trips to Old Holland on iamsterdam.com/ oldholland

Tea gardens

The Zaansche Mill

Bare feet in the grass and the aroma of freshly baked cakes wafting through the air: pastoral dreams await at Old Holland’s idyllic tea gardens. Soak up the sun under the apple and pear trees of Theetuin Neckermolen in Wijdewormer – named after the picturesque local windmill (open from May onwards). Alternatively, head to Boat Rental Overleek, which has a beautiful veranda. Here you can rent electrically propelled ‘whisper boats’ to explore the region.

can the region.

THEETUINDENECKERMOLEN.NL

BOOTVERHUUROVERLEEK.NL

Celebrate 100 years of milling history at the special anniversary exhibition at the Molen Museum at Zaanse Schans. It looks to provide a more anecdotal take; with the archives and members’ magazine De Windbrief forming the basis for the story, all of which reveal how Zaan mills were saved thanks to countless efforts and how craftsmanship is still being passed on to new generations. THROUGHOUT 2025, ZAANSCHEMOLEN.NL

How to get there

Zaandam and Zaanse Schans: Take the train from Amsterdam Central to Zaandam station (two stops further is Zaanse Schans train station) (15 minutes)

Fishing villages: Take the bus from Amsterdam Noord metro station to Monnickendam (15 minutes), Marken (30 minutes) and Volendam (30 minutes)

Beemster: Take bus 305 from Amsterdam Central station to Purmerend and Middenbeemster (30 minutes)

An evocative spot for pancakes, coffee and seafood, Kraantje Lek has the bonus of a large sandbox playground outside for kids.

KRAANTJELEK.NL

Dutch Dunes

Salt-tinged and sublime, the coastline around Amsterdam is dotted with sloping dunes, tiny islands and clear, crystalline views.

Walking in the dunes

As the sun awakens in the spring, head to the coast for bracing, sunlit walks amid the gently undulating dunes. To the south of Zuid-Kennemerland National Park, you’ll find a nature reserve called the Amsterdamse Waterleidingduinen. The area is home to unique flora, fauna, and military bunkers used as defence lines during World War II (page 74). Take a walking tour (bikes aren’t allowed here) around these historical sites and spot some native wildlife, including foxes and roe deer.

AWD.WATERNET.NL

Beach

Gasterij Kruisberg

Nestled in the rolling dunes of Heemskerk, ethical farmstead Gasterij Kruisberg is home to more than 450 sheep, 70 highland cattle, 80 goats and 20 Exmoor ponies that wander its expansive grounds. Head up to the spiralling 13m-high viewpoint for sweeping views of the area and finish with a delicious lunch made with local ingredients in the Gasterij’s bountiful gardens – don’t miss the burger made from the meat of their own highlanders.

GASTERIJKRUISBERG.NL

Juttersmu-Zee-um

Once upon a time, beachcombing was a way of life for residents of Zandvoort. Now that tradition has been preserved in the Juttersmu-Zee-um, a museum dedicated to the many artefacts and curiosities collected by local beachcombers over time. As well as displaying some unusual treasures – including a series of messages sent in bottles from all over the world – you will be given a snapshot into the stories of local residents and their ties with the sea.

JUTTERSMUSEUM.NL

Embrace the world

My Amsterdam

BY: JORGE VELEZ

In each edition, we ask a local illustrator to share their view on Amsterdam.

‘I’m a Colombian-American illustrator living in Amsterdam. I live near the Amstel River and bike alongside it almost daily. I think the Amstel is the heart of Amsterdam. There’s a tremendous amount of history on its banks. Rembrandt used to walk and sketch here on his journeys to the countryside. I sometimes stop on the lovely Blauwbrug on my rides and look south. This is one of my favourite views in the entire city. It’s also a view Rembrandt once drew – the drawing still exists.’.

JORGEVELEZ.ART

On the Way Out

COFFEE TIPS FROM THE MAGAZINE’S TEAM...

‘I live in Haarlem and on Saturdays, it’s time for coffee with a friend at Native, in Vijfhoek, the nicest neighbourhood of Haarlem. They have the tastiest and most beautiful coffee (think swans and flowers). We chat over a large cappuccino and, if possible, we sit outside on the small terrace. It's a treat to just sit and watch all the people, children and dogs pass by.’

Saskia Franken, art director + Ruby, dog

‘My favourite coffee is the very first one of the day. I usually make it myself, but the best first cup is the one that I postpone and drink with a friend. Amsterdam has so many good places to have coffee. Recently, I’ve been to Brandstof in the Jordaan, but the coffee at Alberto Pozzetto in De Pijp is also highly recommended.’

Monique Wijbrands, illustrator

‘I like to grab a relaxed coffee at Priesthood at Prins Hendrikkade 51. You can enjoy a tasty cappuccino while you take in the art in the small exhibition area. This spot is surprisingly quiet for being right in the centre (at least when I visit, that is).’

Colophon editor-in-chief

Bart van Oosterhout

Karin Thybaut

Giampiero Maietti, senior editor online: social media

Saskia Franken

Martijn Blokland

Julia Gorodecky

Senay Boztas

Lauren Comiteau

Karin Engelbrecht

Tom Flanagan

Pascale Kahn

Giampiero Maietti

Callum McLean

Verity Seward

Jorge Velez

Monique Wijbrands

Lisa van Zelm

‘Lately I’ve got into the (lazy) habit of rarely leaving my neighbourhood, Oost. Usually, I’ll grab a coffee at De Jonge Admiraal, which has that cosy living-room feel that’s great for a rainy day. Plus, the cakes are good too.’

Tom Flanagan, culture editor

‘Nook, overlooking Sarphatipark in De Pijp, is my go-to coffee spot. With its bright sunlit interior, elegant decor and friendly baristas who are always up for a chat, it’s the perfect place to grab a cappuccino.’

Pascale Kahn, freelance writer

See what

Uncover Rembrandt’s art and personal tale

The illusionist. Samuel van Hoogstraten. Until May 4th