I amsterdam City Guide AUTUMN WINTER 2023-2024

Around town

MARTIN GARRIX COMES HOME FOR ADE & TOP THINGS TO DO THIS SEASON

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06 Urban Updates

WELCOME

Amsterdam is a city that never lets a good ruin go to waste, and it is with the repurposing of old industrial sites that the city gets truly creative.

13 Your Trip

MAKE THE MOST OF YOUR STAY

Whether you’re in Amsterdam for 12 hours or a weekend, make the most of every hour with our itineraries.

21 Eat & Drink

WHERE TO INDULGE IN AMSTERDAM

The best warming places in Amsterdam to spend a cosy afternoon, Italian hotspots, and the finest fine and casual dining places.

33 What’s On

WHAT TO SEE AND WHERE TO GO

From blockbuster exhibitions to the best gigs, there’s always something to do in Amsterdam. Plus: an interview with superstar DJ Martin Garrix.

53 City Guide

EXPLORE AMSTERDAM’S NEIGHBOURHOODS

There’s a new discovery around every corner, from the best hangouts in the different neighbourhoods to hidden gems in the city centre.

77 Day Trips

DISCOVER THE AMSTERDAM AREA

Explore beyond the city borders of Amsterdam and discover incredible nature, picturesque villages and unmissable experiences.

CITY OF CHANGE

Every Amsterdam guidebook will tell you that Paradiso, the famous music venue near Leidseplein, was once a church. When Amsterdammers visit Paradiso, they never think about that. Even though we refer to it as a pop temple, and its layout and huge stained-glass windows are unmistakably church-like. That is because, much more so than in most countries, the number of church-going folks in the Netherlands has declined dramatically. So much so that one in two churches in and around Amsterdam are no longer religious places, and in the city centre it’s hard to find any church building that hasn’t been converted.

A bookshop, hotel, apartments, music venue, theatre, museum, dance studio, school, convention centre and even breweries (Jopen in Haarlem and Wispe in Weesp) are some of the functions that our churches now have. The same goes for Amsterdam’s old industrial sites (the ones that haven’t been demolished that is). The Wester- and Oostergasfabriek, for example, used to be gas factories (gas to heat the city was made here from coal) and, after a thorough clean-up, were transformed into major cultural venues with theatres, restaurants, a cinema and restaurants. And the A’DAM Tower, with its giant swings, used to be the headquarters of oil giant Shell. Amsterdam-based companies have become very clever in repurposing old buildings, as Matt Farquharson reports in our feature on page 6. In tandem with an open-minded city council, that more often than not has chosen to preserve our cultural heritage, they have created some of Amsterdam’s iconic venues in buildings that in many cities would have been lost for ever.

Bart van Oosterhout Editor-in-Chief, I amsterdam City Guide

Up Front

Markthal

Covering a site of around 40 hectares (or roughly 55 football pitches), the colossal central food market was once the sole preserve of those in the culinary trade, and a jumbled mess of old storage areas. Today, the main central hall, with its vast light-filled space, is open to the public with events such as Markt Kabaal, a hotel and places to eat. The future Marktkwartier West residential district will spread around this central hub, turning a semi-desolate brownfield site into a meadow park with 6- and 12-storey residential blocks.

Urban Updates

Urban (re)treats

What do you do when a prison runs out of prisoners? Or when an arms factory no longer makes bullets? In many cities, the answer has tended towards residential development: how many apartments can be squeezed in for maximum profit? But Amsterdam has been a little more inventive. In the case of that disused prison, one tower block of former cells will house a vertical garden and urban farm, and the former arms factory at HEMbrugterrein is now home to a museum, workspaces and restaurants. And these are just two examples in a long list of success stories of unused spaces turned into something new.

Old space, new ways

In a city with eight centuries of intricate buildings to consider, from

the precariously slanted townhouses of the old centre to remnants of the Dutch 17th century, 70s concrete towers and new marvels of steel and glass, what to do with old spaces has always been a hot topic. ‘Amsterdam has a tradition of squats, which emerged in the 60s,’ says Jaap Schoufour, partner at urban development firm Stipo, which is currently drawing up plans for Hamerkwartier, a former business park in Noord that is being converted into 6,500 residences, as well as offices and studios for smaller businesses. ‘The squatters of the previous century showed us a different way for urban development; not new architectural studio designs to replace old stuff, but taking the existing building and reusing it instead’. Take for example

‘There’s a long list of success stories of unused spaces turned into something new.’

Amsterdam is a city that never lets a good ruin go to waste, and it is with the repurposing of old industrial sites that the city gets truly creative.

Up Front

Squatters turned the Vondelpark bridge into a stage for performance and music. In the 60’s a small unknown band called Pink Floyd played at the Vondelbunker

pop temple Paradiso, which was squatted in the 60s to turn into a gig venue and which is still, up until this day, one of the cultural powerhouses of the city.

Breeding places

De

Ceuvel NDSM

Repurposed into a cultural haven with a reputation for rebellious creativity and groundbreaking graffiti, this former shipyard was once the largest in the Netherlands. The urban plaza is now packed with art spaces such as Nieuw Dakota and STRAAT Museum for street art, restaurants such as Helling 7 and NEXT overlooking the water, and buzzing nightlife options such as Pllek and Noorderlicht. And once a month, part of the area is transformed into IJ-Hallen, the biggest flea market in Europe.

While the 70s and 80s saw open conflict with squatters and fighting in the streets, a shift of approach slowly came around in the 90s as some squats were legalised, others bought by the city and, finally in 2000, a policy called broedplaatsen – ‘breeding grounds’ – that saw many of these old spaces given over to art collectives. Schoufour is a former head of the city’s Bureau Broedplaatsen, which had a €22 million budget. ‘The basic conditions for a project were that funds had to be used for the purchase or reconstruction of a venue, and 40% of floor space should be dedicated to artists in all disciplines,’ he explains. Since then, 75 broedplaatsen have opened, rejuvenating the city’s arts scene. There’s circular space De Ceuvel, Broedplaats LELY (housed in an old college) and NDSM Wharf, whose suc-

SPACE&MATTER

cess is due to the broedplaats-method – this former shipyard has been repurposed into a cultural haven, packed with art spaces, restaurants and buzzing nightlife options. ‘Acknowledge the subculture and artists in a town and facilitate them with affordable space,’ says Schoufour. ‘They make a city complete, more vibrant and diverse’.

Playing with history

Architecture academic Dora Rodopoulou has a PhD in industrial heritage reuse in Europe. She looked across the continent at the ways old spaces were exploited, for good and bad. ‘Amsterdam has taken a playful approach, which leaves space for experimentation,’ she says. ‘It is an unconventional transformation process, championed by the Municipality of Amsterdam, artists, skaters, architects and former squatters. The case of Kraanspoor in particular is my favourite, as it is a magnificent example of creating new sleek architecture that covers current needs while

Must Sees

MELKWEG

Originally a large sugar refinery and later a milk factory, this space was transformed by a theatre group into a meeting and performance venue in 1970. Now it’s one of the city’s most

NATIONAL MARITIME MUSEUM

The former Arsenal of the Dutch navy is now Amsterdam’s National Maritime Museum. From 1656, the building served as a warehouse for cannons, sails, flags and other goods. In 1973, it opened to the public as a museum, focusing on the Netherlands’ storied relationship with the sea.

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A’DAM TOWER

ADE Awakenings

Party at Westergas, in the iconic round Gashouder building, during the ADE Awakenings festival.

18 OCTOBER, WESTERGAS

renowned pop and live music venues, with multiple stages, a cinema, an exhibition space and a restaurant.

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PARADISO

Built in 1880, worshippers used the majestic church on the Weteringschans until 1965. In 1967, the building was squatted by hippies who wanted to transform it into a cultural centre. Now Paradiso is a world-famous live music venue where the church’s architecture and interior make for a stunning background for every concert.

WETERINGSCHANS 6-8

FARALDA CRANE HOTEL

What was once part of Amsterdam's NDSM shipyard, this 50m-high former harbour crane now houses a hotel that rises above the city. If you’re feeling brave, ask the hotel staff about bungee jumping from the top of the tower.

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Built in the 1970s, the A'DAM Tower originally served as an office space for Royal Dutch Shell, providing some lucky workers with breathtaking city views until 2009. After an extensive facelift, you can now gaze at Amsterdam from the building’s 360-degree sky deck, which includes a swing that reaches out over the edge. Next door, Tolhuistuin served as Shell’s canteen and is now a restaurant, bar and music venue.

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DE HALLEN

At this former tram depot, which was in use until 1996, you’ll now find the Filmhallen cinema, a boutique hotel, independent creative outlets, a weekly indoor craft market, and indoor food court Foodhallen, a feast for culinary connoisseurs.

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The Kraanspoor is a 270m-long, 9m-wide former crane track, perched on concrete legs above the River IJ.

The city has a long history of reusing its buildings. These repurposed city landmarks should be on your to-visit list.

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© DICK VAN BERGE

Up Front

REPURPOSED BUILDINGS

respecting a historic structure’. The Kraanspoor was a 270m-long crane track, just 9m wide, perched on concrete legs above the River IJ. Then along came OTH architects, who plonked a three-storey glass and steel office block on top of it. Julian Wolse is a director of the practice. ‘The old shipyards are not there anymore, but the structures and the buildings belonging to the whole composition of this area are beautiful,’ he says. ‘It would really be a waste to deny your own history’.

Circular building

This approach was also applied to De Ceuvel, another former harbour nearby. On a once polluted site, former houseboats have been hoisted ashore as workspaces, artist studios, a café, restaurant and spa. Sascha Glasl is a co-founder at Space&Matter, the architects behind the project. ‘Amsterdam is providing its citizens with more opportunities to develop

Bajeskwartier

What do you do when you are in the rare position of having too many prisons and not enough prisoners? Turn the site into 1,350 apartments, a hotel, school and daycare centre. Sitting at the heart of the new Bajeskwartier, just one of the original six blocks from the 70s-built Bijlmerbajes prison complex remains, along with the prison wall and administrative building. Around these,

Catch a real Keith Haring artwork at the outer wall of the Markthal.

JAN VAN GALENSTRAAT 4

their own places,’ he says, ‘and we saw De Ceuvel as an opportunity to turn wasteland and waste materials into valuable resources, transforming one of Amsterdam’s most polluted spots into a playground for sustainable innovations’. Now it’s one of the city’s most circular projects. From the composting toilets to the locally sourced ingredients, there’s simply no waste (or wasted appetite) at De Ceuvel. You’ll find several showcases of sustainable tech that the compound uses itself, including a fascinating aquaponics greenhouse, heat exchangers and treatment facilities for kitchen and toilet waste.

Reuse and repurpose

Managing the environmental impact of redevelopment is perhaps best seen in the work of Michel Baars, founder of

WG-terrein

On a prime spot in Amsterdam West, not far from the Vondelpark, is the old site of the Wilhelmina Gasthuis hospital. These glass-fronted, light-filled pavilionlike buildings were scheduled for demolition in the 1980s, but thanks to community groups who rallied round to resist the bulldozers, they now house 80 residences and 35 working units. You’ll find artists and start-ups here, including WG Kunst art workshops and exhibitions, and cult cinema Lab111, housed in the former anatomical lab.

new towers have been built, with a staggering 98% of the materials from the demolished prison towers – including window bars, concrete and cell doors – being reused. The remaining prison block is becoming a vertical public park, as greenery and urban farming take the place of old cells. Where the prison once cast its shadow, you can now dance at nightclub Levenslang or dine at Hotel Jansen.

The only remaining prison tower of the former Bijlmerbajes prison complex will develop into De Groene Toren (Green Tower), the iconic centrepiece of Bajeskwartier.

KOEN SMILDE

For more repurposed must-sees, visit iamsterdam.com/ repurposed

New Horizon Urban Mining. His firm is a pioneer in using materials from old buildings to create new ones. Perhaps the finest example is the Dutch National Bank building –known as the ‘cigarette lighter’ – a 14-storey block that Baars’ firm painstakingly took apart and loaded onto barges, bit by bit. Even fragile elements such as interior glass and plasterboard have found new life, many in a new 115-room care home for the elderly. ‘Instead of crushing the concrete, we took it apart like Lego bricks and will reassemble it in the same way. The CO2 savings in this new development are enormous,’ he says. Another example is Helling 7, right next door to Kraanspoor, which was built with scrap metal and glass. Now it serves an all-day restaurant where the circular theme extends to the menu. ‘We must do everything we can not to demolish buildings, but to reuse them in some way,’ Baars says. It is an approach that rings true city-wide.

Westergas

This complex of late 19th-century industrial buildings in Westerpark was once the city’s gasworks. Over the last 20 years, it has been redeveloped into a cultural hub, housing a dense range of exhibition and concert spaces and restaurants. There’s retro arcade bar TonTon Club, the Ketelhuis Cinema for arthouse film, RadioRadio for the coolest sounds and sexiest pizzas and immersive art space Fabrique des Lumières. Look out for regular food markets, mini-festivals and events held here too, such as the vibrant Sunday market held on the first Sunday of every month.

Oostergas

In a former gas factory in the east, arts, sport and commerce now flourish. The redevelopment of the Oostergasfabriek maintained the distinctive frontage of the old factory, but behind that facade sits a modernist box of glass, steel and cladding. You can now find the Q-Factory hotel, with its own music studio and concert halls, the Conservatorium of Amsterdam, The Ballet Orchestra and a DJ school here. Nearby, there’s the Poesiat & Kater microbrewery and the canalside Framer Framed, a radical space for contemporary art and discussion.

Pllek

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KOEN SMILDE

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Your Trip

How to spend your time in 12, 24 or 48 hours

TEXT: LESIA JOUKOVA

14 Twelve Hours

15 Twenty-four Hours

16 Forty-eight Hours

See stunning windmills

The signature wooden houses and green windmills of the Zaanse Schans are just a half-hour away from Amsterdam Central station. With the I amsterdam City Card you get free entry into the open-air village museum that features weaving and clog-making as well as windmill access. Don’t miss the Verkade chocolate experience and the Zaans Museum nearby.

DURATION: 4 HOURS

Your Trip

LESIA JOUKOVA

Catch a tram to the Sloten windmill and step inside for a detailed look at its inner workings, and step out onto the deck to experience it in action.

AKERSLUIS 10, MOLENVANSLOTEN.NL

Whether it’s a whirlwind trip or a long luxurious stay, make the most of every hour in Amsterdam with our guide to what to see and do.

How to Spend Your Time in…

Have a pancake breakfast

Start the day with a delicious at Dutch pancake at PANCAKES Amsterdam with a 25% City Card discount on breakfast. Try a traditional savoury pancake with ham and cheese or a mini po ertje pancake with powdered sugar and butter.

DURATION: 1 HOUR

Discover the city from the water

Next, take in the beauty of Amsterdam’s Canal Ring from the water during an hour-long boat tour included in the City Card. Learn about the city’s marine history as you sail under cobblestoned bridges and past historic houses.

DURATION: 2 HOURS

Delve into history at the Resistance Museum

Learn how the Dutch showed resistance during the Nazi occupation of the Netherlands during World War II. The exhibition, separated into six phases of the occupation, features stories of resistance, from strikes, document forgery, aiding individuals in hiding and more.

DURATION: 2 HOURS

12 hours

Catch a concert at Muziekgebouw aan ’t IJ

Amsterdam’s contemporary music venue o ers a constant line-up of jazz artists, classical performances and much more. Enjoy 25% o your ticket with the City Card.

DURATION: 2 HOURS

24 hours

Explore the city by bike

The City Card includes 24 hours of free bike rental, so go ahead and explore Amsterdam the local way. Cycle through the city’s cobblestoned streets or get away from the crowds at the Vondelpark for a relaxing time in nature.

DURATION: 2 HOURS

Discover new photography at Foam

Don’t miss contemporary photography museum Foam, with exhibitions of various categories, from documentary to art and fashion. Emerging artists are displayed alongside historic works by world-famous photographers in this canal house museum.

DURATION: 1 HOUR

Get your I amsterdam City Card for free entry to countless museums and attractions, plus great discounts and special offers.

IAMSTERDAM.COM/CITYCARD

Get your cheese fi x at Kaasbar

Kaasbar is an absolute paradise for cheese lovers and the perfect place for a fun but lling dinner. Sit up at the bar with a glass of wine and take your pick as carefully selected artisanal cheeses from Gouda and Edam to blue cheese, trundle past you enticingly on the sushi-style conveyor belt.

DURATION: 1.5 HOURS

Marvel at art and history at Rijksmuseum

Crowning the Museumplein, the Rijksmuseum is one of Amsterdam’s unmissable museums. Soak in the atmosphere of learning in the Cuypers Library, peek into the dolls’ houses that inspired Jessie Burton’s novel The Miniaturist, and walk the Gallery of Honour all the way to Rembrandt’s The Night Watch

DURATION: 3 HOURS

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KOEN SMILDE © ERIK SMITS

Your Trip

Treat yourself to a slice of Dutch apple pie at Museum van Loon . If the weather is good, sit in the beautiful courtyard garden, hidden away from the city’s hustle and bustle.

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Fly over the Netherlands at This is Holland

Head back to the city and catch the free ferry from Central Station across the River IJ to This is Holland, a ight experience where astonishing imagery projected on a huge domed screen will give you the breathtaking sensation of ying over the Dutch landscape.

DURATION: 1 HOUR

Enjoy dinner with a view at Moon

There’s no missing the viewing point of the A’DAM Lookout, with its sweeping views over the city. Step into the rotating Moon restaurant for the full experience on A’DAM Tower’s 19th oor and indulge in a luxurious fourcourse menu.

DURATION: 2 HOURS

Learn about past Dutch life

Hop on a train to Enkhuizen’s Zuiderzeemuseum, where you can get a taste of life in the 20th century, with an outdoor section, traditional games, a collection of antique shing boats and ornate handicrafts. Don’t forget to pick up some smoked herring at the gift shop as a souvenir and explore the town for a fun day trip.

DURATION: 4 HOURS

48 hours

Have a good laugh at Boom Chicago

End your evening with a night of international comedy at Boom Chicago, where long-form improvisation meets sharp writing and quick wit. Best of all, all City Card holders get 25% o !

DURATION: 2 HOURS

XXS SUB 1 SUB

Dam Life

A Dog’s Life

Taking my young daughters to dinner after 6PM raised eyebrows, while Rufus would get a water bowl placed lovingly under his salivating tongue. I, meanwhile, couldn’t get a highchair. That’s changing now, and children are almost as welcome in restaurants as dogs. There’s something comforting about living in a city world-renowned for its passion for pooches. I’ll never forget the old tourist board slogan encouraging internationals to relocate with their pups: ‘Dorothy never left Toto in Kansas.’ Incoming dog owners can’t help but feel they’ve found the Emerald City. It used to annoy me how much Dutch people like their dogs. Until I got one. More people have stopped me on the street to coo over my spotted pup than they ever did to admire my rosy-cheeked infants. My Lucy gets

regular treats from our cheese seller to my biscuit-keeping tobacconist on our daily rounds. I’ve even witnessed tram riders give up their coveted seats to four-legged freeloaders. The good news is that dogs are indeed welcome on Amsterdam’s public transport, although for train riding, unless your pet is lap-bound, you will need to buy a €3.30 doggie day ticket, or dagkaart hond. (Note: it’s not transferable to other furry friends.)

Better yet, go native and place your dog in a basket on your bicycle or let them run alongside you on a leash as you take in the sights on two wheels. The city’s canine hospitality extends to lodgings, too, with many hotels –from five-star to budget – welcoming dogs. The trendy The Hoxton in the Jordaan allows pooches to lodge for free. I’ve even stayed in a beach-front

hotel that provided a doggie bed and snacks for a small fee. Almost every city park is a doggie paradise, with De Pijp’s Sarphatipark reserving one half of its grounds for dogs, while Flevopark in the east, Gaasperplas in the southeast and Het Twiske north of Amsterdam o er pooches lakefront swimming. Most city beaches allow dogs to run free from October through April, making the colder months perfect for long walks with your canine companions. There’s even a dedicated doggie cafe, Woof & Me, where owners can sip co ee while their dog besties down Pupsicles, lactose-free Puppuccinos and other pooch-punned goodies. My advice? Treat your furry drinking buddy to a Kwispelbier. This made-in-Holland non-alcoholic doggy beer, though, is a strictly BYOB a air, as I’ve yet to see it on o er in bars. No doubt, though, it’s only a matter of time.

Lauren Comiteau is a journalist and writer who has covered the Netherlands for TIME Magazine, CBS Radio and others since 1996. She lives in Amsterdam with her two daughters and Jack Russell. TEXT: LAUREN COMITEAU

You may have already noticed it: the Dutch love their dogs. And as a city where many furry friend owners live, Amsterdam is as dog-friendly as it gets.

AMSTERDAM FOOD BUCKET LIST AMSTERDAM FOOD BUCKET LIST

HARING

HARING

BITTERBALLEN

BITTERBALLEN

DUTCH PANCAKES

DUTCH PANCAKES

POFFERTJES

POFFERTJES

Where to indulge in Amsterdam Eat & Drink

TEXT: KARIN ENGELBRECHT

NEXT

22 Cosying Up

25 World-Class Cocktails

26 Hot Stuff

27 Casual Dining

28 La Bella Vita

30 Perfect Poultry

31 Fine Dining

In collaboration with NEXT. Cosmopolitan newcomer NEXT is an all-day hangout with a swanky 600m2 interior and IJ-facing terrace, conveniently located opposite the ferry. The internationallyinspired menu includes pani puri (deepfried Indian dough pockets, €9) with chana masala and coriander chutney, crapaudine beets with horseradish crème fraiche (€12) and sticky short ribs with black garlic (€19). An extensive drinks list also harbours some pleasant surprises, like the Black Passion (€14), a cocktail with passion fruit, charcoal and Havana Club 3.

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Warm Welcome

Pick up a Hotchocspoon in one of 60 flavours (from €3.85 at CHCO Café) to make real-deal Dutch hot chocolate at home

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CHOCOLATECOMPANY.NL

De Neef van Fred

An ode to the brown café, De Neef van Fred (Fred’s cousin) is a cosy waterside bar bistro. The menu is wonderfully nononsense, with bitterballen and Kef cheese on the snacks list.

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DENEEFVANFRED.GOUDVISCH.NL

Made by a famous chef and sausage maker, SNERT pea soup (€6.95 at STACH) delivers the quintessential taste of winter in the Netherlands.

VARIOUS LOCATIONS STACH-FOOD.NL

Bistrot des Alpes

For comforting Savoyard classics, such as raclette, tartiflette and four styles of fondue, as well as mountain charcuterie and cheese, head to this alpine charmer, complete with red-

Cosying Up

When temperatures drop and the light art and twinkly festive decorations come out, you know the donkere dagen (what the Dutch call the ‘dark days’ of autumn and winter) are coming. But before you despair, there’s still plenty to do around town no matter what the weather’s doing. Amsterdam’s restaurants, cafés and bars are especially inviting this time of year. For breakfast, lunch or a quick bite, we like Gartine, which does some of the best homemade breakfasts in town, British comfort food specialist The Cottage and the quaint (and always bustling) cake shop, De Laatste Kruimel. Or grab a coffee and watch the world go by at Quartier Putain, which is situated in the heart of the Red Light District, in the shade of Amsterdam’s oldest church. A few of our favourite places to dine by candlelight include the romantic Michelin-starred Sinne, laid-back Latin American bar-restaurant Salmuera, Savoie-inspired fine dining restaurant Mont Blanc, and the charming French bistro Café de Klepel. And for drinks, we always get a warm welcome at the homely Bar Bouche, convivial Stadscafé Van Mechelen and Berlin-inspired Café Brecht

and-white chequered tablecloths, copper kitchen utensils and an original ski lift.

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Box Sociaal Jordaan

This cheerful expat favourite’s known for boozy brunches, toothsome burgers and quirky

combos, but the shrimp bagel toast (€10) – a Breadwinner bagel with prawn toast mix fried in a sesamebreadcrumb crust and served with Chinese pickled salad and sweet & sour sauce – is a must-order.

BLOEMGRACHT 47, BOXSOCIAAL.COM

Café Oosterling

Breathe in centuries of history at this atmospheric brown café, which offers a good selection of Dutch jenevers as well as local bar bites such as bitterballen (bite-sized croquettes), Louman ossenworst (raw beef sausage) and De Leeuw pickles

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’Tis the season for staying warm indoors while stuffing your face with seasonal treats. A bit of light exploring is also in order and we have plenty of ideas to keep you autumn- and winterproof.

Welcome

Cosy cafés

What better way to spend a rainy afternoon than cuddling with cute rescued cats? At Kattencafé Kopjes, you can do exactly that, though there’s tea and cake too. Prefer pawing international newspapers instead? You’ll find great reading tables at Café De Pels, De Ysbreeker, Café Luxembourg and Café Americain. With its Delft-tiled bar, Papeneiland is a lovely spot for some apple pie and a chat about the building’s fascinating history funnelling Catholics to their church via a secret tunnel.

Fireside delight

Nothing beats a crackling hearth on a cold day, if you know where to find one. With its fireplace and leather armchairs, Café de Wetering in the Eastern Canal Belt is the perfect place to drink in that convivial Dutch brown café atmosphere that is always described as gezellig. Set in a monumental 17th-century farmstead in Oost, where dairy cows once found refuge, De Vergulden Eenhoorn is a handsomely renovated restaurant with locavore leanings. A cosy corner with leather sofas and a copper fireplace is ideal for chewing the cud on rainy afternoons. Or curl up in a fireside Chesterfield while nibbling on the famous flammkuchen at The Lobby Nesplein, a stone’s throw from Dam Square. Vessel, in the Western Docklands, scores some serious style points with its plush pink velvet sofas and copper hearth, and remains a good spot to nurse a warming drink.

Eco-friendly board game Wonder Woods (€27.95 at The Game Keeper), combines a fun mushroom foraging theme with deduction, strategy and a bit of bluffing.

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GAMEKEEPER.NL

Game on

Or stop off for a drink at Café Schiller with its charming century-old interior before going to Pathé Tuschinski cinema, that other famous Amsterdam Art Deco landmark. For nightly live jazz and blues performances in a lively setting near buzzing Leidseplein, head to the iconic Jazz Café Alto.

Don’t let the drizzle get you down, because there are many indoor activities to enjoy at Amsterdam’s bars and cafés. For over 30 years, games café 2 Klaveren in West has offered old-fashioned Dutch gezelligheid on tap, along with local comfort food (think meatball sandwiches and eggy uitsmijter sandwiches) as well as a wide variety of card- and board games like backgammon and bridge. A short walk away, cosy Bosco is a good place to continue with chess, Rummikub and more. For regular pub quizzes in English, head to Maxwell or Café Lust. Meanwhile, the arcade bar TonTon Club offers old-school and Japanese arcade- and board games and air hockey across four locations. Or make a night of it at Mooie Boules, which combines a bar and street food hall with boules courts. Continue at Duke of Tokyo where there are eight private karaoke rooms with Japanesethemed cocktails and bar snacks.

Vessel

The Lobby Nesplein

Duke of Tokyo

TonTon Club

Papeneiland

Café Americain

At the glitzy new rooftop bar LuminAir, the attentive service is as sublime as the cocktails.

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Top Tips

World-Class Mixtures

Traditionally a beer and jenever city, Amsterdam arrived a little late to the cocktail party, but it’s caught up – and how. These days, our bartenders are among the best in the world, and these are the spots to get a taste of their signature drinks.

Super Lyan

At this renowned downtown cocktail bar, the rich Beeswax

Old Fashioned with Maker’s Mark, Millstone Rye, beeswax, raw sugar, bitters and a flamed orange (€16) comes highly recommended. But should another craving strike, the mixologists here are masters at sussing out your signature drink and creating a custom cocktail to suit the mood.

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Flying Dutchmen

Inspired by its home country, the Flying Dutchmen Cocktail (€12.50) combines Bols Barrel

Aged Genever, orange bitters, orange flower water, lemon juice and speculaas syrup to create what award-winning bartender Timo Janse calls ‘a modern classic’. ‘Ever since we opened in 2017, this beauty has remained unchanged.’

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FLYINGDUTCHMENCOCKTAILS.SHOP

The Tailor

Tucked away in the Anantara Grand Hotel Krasnapolsky on Dam Square, The Tailor routinely pays tribute to the life and craft of its founding father with its bespoke cocktails, such as the smoky Mr H with two types of whisky, vermouth, lemon thyme and jasmine tea (€20). It’s perfectly suited to absorb the colder weather.

DAM 9

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Pulitzer’s Bar

It doesn’t get plusher than at this prize-winning darling. Settle into a cosy velvet nook and sip on the New Amsterdam (€17), a Pulitzer evergreen. Taking its inspiration from the timeless New York Sour, it’s made with Savoia Americano, a homemade orgeat, lemon and a red wine reduction and is topped with frothy egg white.

PRINSENGRACHT 323 PULITZERAMSTERDAM.COM

Top Tips

The Vida Picante – Vida mezcal spiked with chilli liqueur, salted caramel, lime and yuzu – is a feisty little number (€17).

ALBERT CUYPSTRAAT 2-6 IZAKAYA-RESTAURANT.COM

Some Like it Hot

Blue Pepper

With its unfailingly excellent (vegan) food and unfussy decor, this Indonesian restaurant near Leidseplein remains a class act. Founding chef Sonja Pereira’s authentic Indonesian fare combines influences from West Java with a light, modern touch and beautiful presentation. While certainly not the cheapest Indonesian establishment in the city, Blue Pepper is surely one of its finest.

NASSAUKADE 366 RESTAURANTBLUEPEPPER.COM

Yuan’s Hot Pot

This Chengdu fondue specialist offers a dazzling array of Chinese options, from chewy flat sweet potato vermicelli, tofu and spicy beef to chicken feet (from €0.99).

Simply slip your bambooskewered selection into a simmering soup base, which can be ordered extra spicy (!), vegetarian, or half-half, and enjoy.

FERDINAND BOLSTRAAT 18

BEETHOVENSTRAAT 633, RIJNSTRAAT 51 YUANHOTPOT.COM

Bacalar

Hidden in what looks like a garage, in an industrial part of Noord, is a taqueria that has become a hotspot. This is the place to tuck into Bacalar tacos and tostadas with pork belly, pulpo or langoustine (from €14) and enjoy the afterburn that only Morita chillies, chipotle and habanero can bring. Finish with an ancho chilli liquorspiked Mexican coffee (€9.50)

CHRYSANTENSTRAAT 4

BACALAR.AMSTERDAM

Sapporo Ramen Sora

There are always a couple of chilli-spiked options at this authentic ramen joint in De Pijp, including a spicy miso vegetable ramen (€21.45) and a chicken brothbased triple mala ramen with three types of peppers (€22.10). If you’re feeling extra spicy, order the Karaage fried chicken as well (5 pieces for €7.80).

CEINTUURBAAN 49 RAMENSORA.NL

If the hottest thing you’ve found in Amsterdam so far is those ubiquitous vlammetjes (fried spicy beef mini spring rolls), you’ll want to give your tastebuds a serious thrashing with our guide to the city’s best spicy food.

Casual Dining

Find out more about food and drink in Amsterdam at iamsterdam.com/ restaurants

Modern Ceviche

Peruvian chef Christian Motte (ex-Nazka) wanted a ‘more casual place’ to enjoy ceviche, beer and Pisco-based drinks.

At the city’s newest Peruvian food bar, you can pop by for a beer with bites or opt for a full-on four-course meal. The clue’s in the name: Moche ( Modern Ceviche) and the two ceviches we tried masterfully balanced all those hot, sour, salty and sweet flavours. We also like the chalaca-topped oysters (an authentic Peruvian seafood topping with tomatoes, onions, chilli

pepper, lemon and parsley, €5 each). Don’t miss Chef Motte's signature achiote aubergines with smoked yoghurt, padron peppers and toasted peanuts (€14), which is still as delicious as ever. There's also an impressive wine list and the Pisco sours (€13) and Moche Espresso Martinis (€14) are really rather good. Well worth a detour.

LINNEAUSKADE 3, MOCHE.NL

Ceviche may be trending, but there are still only a handful of authentic Peruvian specialists in Amsterdam. Moche, a new resto-bar in east side Watergraafsmeer, is a welcome addition.

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Italian food

Fratelli Burgio’s cherry tomato relish is bursting with the singular flavour of Italian tomatoes (€5.50 via La Bottega by Chiara’s Food).

VAN WOUSTRAAT 201 CHIARASFOOD.NL

Cucina Italiana

A convincing taste of la bella vita, like only the Italians can do it, still has locals flocking. Here are a few of our favourite spots, both old and new. Buon appetito!

Lately, it seems like there’s a new Italian eatery opening every week. The most talked about include the eclectic Insta-friendly trattoria La Nostra Gigi and the cosmopolitan Bar Bellini. There’s also a welcome second location of the deservedly-hyped Zero Zero schiacciata sandwich bar. But let’s not forget the old guard. Pianeta Terra, a 22-year-old stalwart of organic cooking, was included in the world’s Top 50 Best Italian Restaurants outside of Italy list in 2023. Roberto’s, a decades-long haunt of the Italian embassy, is known for its unfailingly excellent service and its parmigiana di melanzane Caffè Toscanini has been revered for its Tuscan specialities since 1985. The newer next-door Toscanini Deli is a great spot for an espresso and a focaccia sandwich. Meanwhile, Miuz has the best gelato in town, hands-down. Want to stock up on Italian essentials? Wine specialist and enoteca Sprezzatura, which supplies 16 Michelin Guide restaurants, is the place to find extraordinary Italian vino For Italian pastries such as bomboloni (custard-filled doughnuts), maritozzi (cream-filled buns) and orange polenta cake head to Salvo bakery. And for Italian delicacies from small-scale producers, make a beeline for Terre Lente (see sidebar), Casa del Gusto and La Bottega by Chiara’s Food.

NNea Pizza , which combines age-old Neapolitan traditions with modern bakery science, has been awing local foodies with its perfectly blistered crusts and creative toppings (from €11.50).

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NNEAPIZZA.COM

TOZI

Cicchetti (Italian small plates) play a leading role at this Zuid-based Venetian specialist, supported by an allItalian cast of wines and classic cocktails. Do order the showstealing tonnarelli cacio e pepe (black pepper pasta) served from a wheel of cheese (from €42 to share) with truffle, when in season.

KONINGINNEWEG 34-36, TOZIAMSTERDAM.NL

Terre Lente

Stop by for a bite or grab an authentic Neapolitan espresso and goodies to go at this Italian-owned Jordaan-based delicatessen, which imports over 80% of its Calabrian products directly from smallscale growers and (natural) winemakers. There’s also freshly baked focaccia, homemade pasta al forno, and a wide variety of Italian produce, olives, cheese and more.

WESTERSTRAAT 55, TERRELENTE.COM

Segugio

If you’re a risotto aficionado, run don’t walk to this trusted Centrum restaurant for its luxurious take on the classic Milanese dish (€24.50). Served with mushrooms and fresh, black truffle, it’s rich and savoury, al dente without being chalky and obligingly oozing, or what the Italians call all’onda, ‘with a wave’.

UTRECHTSESTRAAT 96, SEGUGIO.NL

TERRA LENTE

SEGUGIO

Top Tips

Biscuit Baby is your best bet for authentic Southern fried chicken and biscuits made by North Carolinian chefs.

KINKERSTRAAT 106

Finger-Lickin’ Chicken

Judging by the sheer number of new poultry-themed spots, the popularity of the whitest meat still hasn’t kicked the bucket. From rotisserie, fried chicken and burgers to vegan alternatives, we’ve got all your kip cravings covered.

Taste Like Chicken

Find plant-based facsimiles of your junk food favourites at this brightly-hued new spot that’s styled like a sneaker shop, from a gochujang bomb called ‘Korean fried chicas’ (€9) to a tangy BBQ burger (€9.90) and over-the-top ‘chica & waffles’ (VFC tenders with hot sauce, maple syrup and vegan soft serve, €9).

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TASTELIKECHICKEN.COM

SOJU bar

Make a night of it at this fun (food)bar, where there are nine versions of Korean fried chicken (from €10.50) as well as mandu (deep-fried dumplings, from €5), bibimbap (rice bowls, from €14.50), kimbap (rice rolls, from €11.50), bingsu (shaved ice cream, from €9), various types of soju (a rice-based spirit) and cocktails (from €9).

FERDINAND BOLSTRAAT 13-15

SOJUBAR.NL

Franggo

For Portuguese flame-grilled chicken with that real-deal charcoal flavour, you can’t go wrong here. From €11.40 for a half chicken or €15 including a sauce (piri-piri or garlic butter with lemon) and a side (tomato salad, fries, rice or a jacket potato), it’s good value too.

EERSTE SWEELINCKSTRAAT 9 DE CLERCQSTRAAT 106 FRANGGO.NL

Rotisserie

This ‘guilty pleasures bar’ claims to take the junk out of junk food by using quality ingredients and making everything (even the sauces, pickles and buns) from scratch. Sate your… eh…fowl-est cravings here, from rotisserie (from €14.95), wraps and crispy tenders to Southern fried chicken burgers. And a rum-Oreo milkshake (€12.45) to wash it all down.

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ROTISSERIEAMSTERDAM.NL

Fine Dining

East Side Decadence

Headed up by a pretty impressive team, whose CVs read like a who’s who of Amsterdam’s best-loved restaurants (including 212**, De Juwelier*, Ron Gastrobar* and Escobar), it’s no wonder that this new east-side eatery is the talk of the town. Chef Plat dials up the decadence with dishes such as pork cheek croquettes with an oyster cream and plump pies with oxtail and sweetbreads swimming in a mushroom

foam with morels and lashings of truffle. With bites from €5 and a la carte mains between €12 and €24, prices are surprisingly affordable, though there’s also lobster for €58 and a €900 Chateau Mouton Rothschild 2012. An impressive wine room boasts more than 2,000 bottles but with plenty of options in the €30 to €40 range it’s very accessible. Highly recommended.

SCHOLLENBRUGSTRAAT 8, TROEFAMSTERDAM.NL

A scenic cycle up the Amstel River, ensconced down a side street is Troef, a French restaurant that breathes understated elegance.

TROEF

Niels Leijssenaar, Willem Alberts, Roderick Kunst and Raymond Plat, (from left to right) are a dream team.

CHANTAL ARNTS

CHANTAL ARNTS

What’s on

Where to go and what to see

TEXT: VERITY SEWARD

Super-Sonic Jazz Festival

The seventh edition of Super-Sonic Jazz Festival returns to Paradiso, De Duif and Rush Hour Records, showcasing innovative jazz musicians on the cutting edge of R&B, hip-hop, soul, folk, funk and electronic. The line-up this year brings Mammal Hands, Kokoroko, Theo Crocker, Sungazer, Gaidaa and Kassa Overall to the stage, among many others, with a special Sunday programme featuring only local artists.

14-19 NOVEMBER, SUPERSONICJAZZ.NL

34 Exhibitions

38 On Stage

40 Pop & Rock

41 Classical & Jazz

42 On Screen

44 Family & Kids

45 Festivals & Events

47 Amsterdam Dance Event

48 Interview: Martin Garrix

50 Attractions

For full listings of what’s on in Amsterdam, visit: iamsterdam.com/ whatson

Exhibitions

Amsterdam houses many more museums than can fit on these pages. Head to iamsterdam.com to find them all.

Museum Boijmans Van Beuningen at Rijksmuseum

The Rijksmuseum takes viewers on a journey through the human lifespan and art history, presenting internationally acclaimed works from the collection of Rotterdam’s Museum Boijmans Van Beuningen, which is under renovation. The outstanding selection includes works by Jeroen Bosch, Rubens, Bruegel, Leonardo Da Vinci, Rembrandt, Van Gogh, Monet, Mondri-

aan, Munch and Dalí, alongside contemporary pieces by artists such as Cindy Sherman and Yayoi Kusama. The thematic curation centres around concepts such as birth, youth, sexuality and death, allowing artworks from differing periods to be seen in relation to each other.

29 SEPTEMBER-14 JANUARY, RIJKSMUSEUM.NL

The Sacrifice Zone

Photographer Eddo Hartmann’s latest multimedia project investigates ecocide and the devastating legacy of nuclear testing in Kazakhstan. Travelling with a Geiger counter and a medium-format camera, he documents radioactive grassland steppes, bunkers, scrapheaps and desolate cities to produce a powerful portrait of the despairing but resilient population of this former USSR nation.

28 OCTOBER-25 FEBRUARY, HUISMARSEILLE.NL

Salvador Dalí, Shirley Temple. The Youngest, Most Sacred Monster of the Cinema in Her Time, 1939

Pieter Bruegel the Elder, The Tower of Babel, ca 1565

EDDO HARTMANN © EDDO HARTMANN, BLACK PYLON, THE POLYGON, KAZAKHSTAN 2022

© EDDO HARTMANN, S CIENTISTS, LAKE BALAPAN, KAZAKHSTAN 2023

Random International

The postdigital art group Random International arrives at Nxt Museum, the home of new media art in the Netherlands, this autumn. In their mesmerising large-scale works, the collective presents newly completed works and others never-yet-seen in Europe, tracing a line through the artists’ creative process from 2006 until today.

27 SEPTEMBER-27 JUNE, NXTMUSEUM.COM

The world’s most exciting photography galleries and cutting-edge artists unite at Unseen Photo Fair for a weekend of talks, competitions and tours.

21-24 SEPTEMBER, UNSEENAMSTERDAM.COM

Printed Matters: Raise the Level

World-renowned artist and activist Shepard Fairey (known for Obama's 'Hope' campaign poster) brings a major solo exhibition to STRAAT Museum. With more than 130 objects, this is his most extensive exhibition ever in the Netherlands. Fairey addresses urgent matters, such as nationalism, xenophobia, war and fake news, using familiar symbols to appeal and involve viewers in a dialogue.

MOØDe

This winter, the Cobra Museum of Modern Art will be given over to the work of Anton Corbijn whose extensive oeuvre explores the crossover between photography and the fashion world. Previously shown in Belgium, the exhibition contains around 200 photos, including the now iconic portraits that Corbijn made of Kate Moss, Tom Waits, Alexander McQueen and Naomi Campbell at the height of their careers.

22 DECEMBER-12 MAY COBRA-MUSEUM.NL

Food for Thought

The National Maritime Museum looks to the work of Kadir van Lohuizen to reveal the fascinating world behind food production in the Netherlands. From slaughterhouses to local onion producers and mega-ships carrying soya beans to Amsterdam, the photographer and documentary maker travelled with his drone camera across the polders to investigate the country’s role within the global food system.

FROM 3 NOVEMBER, HETSCHEEPVAARTMUSEUM.COM

Many museums and attractions are free with the I amsterdam City Card. Get yours at iamsterdam.com/citycard. Card

UNTIL 1 OCTOBER, STRAATMUSEUM.COM

© ESTEBAN SCHUNEMAN

© ANTON CORBIJN

Whether your interest lies in old masters, photography, contemporary art or designer furniture, you’ll make surprising discoveries at sterdam

PAN Amart fair.

19-26 NOVEMBER, PAN.NL

Exhibitions Sleeping Beauty

Carlijn Jacobs’ quirky yet alienating images invite viewers into a dream-like world where anything is possible. Through a fascination with traditional forms of costume and disguise, she relates phenomena such as the Japanese geisha and the age-old tradition of the Venetian carnival to today's beauty and fashion scene. In her recent experiments with artificial intelligence, her captivating film stills are reminiscent of a strangely attractive nightmare.

6 OCTOBER-21 JANUARY, FOAM.ORG

Famiri Family

This poignant exhibition commemorates the shared, painful relationship between Amsterdam and Suriname through archival materials and transatlantic family stories passed down between generations. Researchers from the Amsterdam City Archives and the Suriname National Archives traced eight stories supported by audio fragments to shed light on the brutal history of colonisation, slavery and exploitation, but also to provide a stage for the ingenuity, resilience and survival power of these family stories.

UNTIL 14 JANUARY, AMSTERDAM.NL/STADSARCHIEF

CARLIJN JACOBS

CARLIJN JACOBS

Discover the joy of collecting art from emerging and established artists at Affordable Art Fair , where there’s something for all tastes and budgets.

1-5 NOVEMBER, AFFORDABLEARTFAIR.COM

This Will Not End Well

The Stedelijk Museum presents the first comprehensive retrospective of Nan Goldin’s film pieces and slideshows, whose challenging explorations of human existence have inspired generations. The exhibition surveys the acclaimed American artist’s oeuvre from her groundbreaking work The Ballad of Sexual Dependency and magnum opus The Other Side – a homage to her trans friends whom she photographed between 1972 and 2010 – to the more recent Memory Lost, a claustrophobic journey through drug withdrawal. The exhibition will be installed in six unique architectural spaces designed in response to each piece.

7 OCTOBER-28 JANUARY, STEDELIJK.NL

Julius Ceasar

Marking an exciting new chapter for the Hermitage Amsterdam, which reopened as H’ART Museum on 1 September, the first solo exhibition in the Netherlands about Gaius Julius Caesar (100-44 BCE) is organised in collaboration with archaeological museums in Italy and Germany. The exhibition tells the gory life story of the Roman general, politician, statesman, writer and dictator – from his love affair with Cleopatra to his domination of Europe and eventual murder by his opponents.

UNTIL 20 MAY, HART.AMSTERDAM

Sol LeWitt

In one of its most comprehensive exhibitions to date, The Jewish Museum highlights the notable contribution of American-Jewish artist Sol LeWitt as one of the founders of conceptual art. Paying particular attention to LeWitt’s connection with the Netherlands and his Jewish background, the exhibition includes four wall drawings alongside works on paper, structures (spatial objects) and archival material.

30 OCTOBER-31 MARCH, JCK.NL

On Stage

Afrovibes Festival

Located in a former courthouse, De Balie offers a varied programme that encompasses debates, theatre productions and films on social and political issues.

Afrovibes Festival welcomes contemporary makers and artists from Africa and the diaspora for a full programme of contemporary dance, music, theatre and design. This year’s theme, Liquid Traces, is an artistic response to remembering our past and trying to come to terms with it. World-renowned choreographers, theatre makers and emerging talent will perform at Frascati, De Balie, Muziekgebouw aan het IJ and Bijlmer Parktheater.

3-15 OCTOBER, AFROVIBES.NL

Raymonda

With its lively character dances, stylish sets, many ballerina variations and beautiful dream sequences, this reinvigoration of Marius Petipa’s 19thcentury ballet classic, Raymonda, promises a magical outing. Acclaimed choreographer Rachel Beaujean readapts a somewhat outdated storyline for contemporary audiences as the young Hungarian grand duchess Raymonda eschews tradition and makes her own decisions on the path of love.

9 DECEMBER-1 JANUARY, OPERABALLET.NL

World Christmas Circus

For decades, the World Christmas Circus at Royal Theater Carré has been one of the most popular family outings during the festive period. Marvel at the flying trapeze artists, star clowns, enchanting costumes, horse whisperers and daredevils as awarding-winning acts from the most prominent circus festivals worldwide join forces in one spectacular show.

20 DECEMBER-7 JANUARY, CARRE.NL

DEBALIE.NL

© NATHAN REINDS

© EDGAR DE MELO

© MARTA SYRKO

Boom Chicago

Comedy house Boom Chicago has been tickling the ribs of audiences for more than 25 years with its combination of comedy, sketch and improv, all performed in English. Shows touch on everything from Dutch culture to American politics, and many big names got their start here. Head down to the historic Rozengracht location for weekly shows, and don’t miss their ridiculously over-thetop Christmas-inspired ‘Miracle Bar’ throughout the month of December.

BOOMCHICAGO.NL

The Amsterdam Marionette Theatre is something special: wooden marionettes present operas and other forms of music theatre, for both adults and children.

NIEUWE JONKERSTRAAT 8 MARIONETTENTHEATER.NL

The Promise

Singer Wende Snijders worked with a group of up-and-coming British female writers to create this modern song cycle about identity, origin and the nuances of contemporary womanhood. Exploring questions of birth, death, anger, acceptance, femininity and motherhood, this moving musical theatre production is inspired by the tradition and diversity within the English writing landscape.

27-30 DECEMBER, ITA.NL

International Storytelling Festival

Acclaimed storytellers light up the autumn nights at the spectacular Podium Mozaïek, a theatre located in a former church in Bos en Lommer. In this weekend-long festival, expect pacey plots, touching tales and real-life accounts from around the world as master storytellers demonstrate the art form of spoken word. Along with the shows, there are also talks, workshops, a masterclass, live music and a midnight saloon.

1-5 NOVEMBER, STORYTELLINGFESTIVAL.NL

Mike’s Badhuistheater

This small theatre, located in a former bathing house in the middle of a residential street, is home to the Badhuis International Theater Company and has welcomed visitors for more than 30 years. Check the programme for a superb range of English-language plays by classical and modern playwrights such as Beckett, Pinter and Shakespeare.

BADHUISTHEATER.NL

© RAHI RESVANI

© ALBORZ SAHEBDIVANI

© WESLEY VERHOEVE

Pop & Rock Naaz De Staat

As part of its Red / Yellow / Blue project, alternative rock band De Staat is giving three concerts in the Grote Zaal of Paradiso. The five-piece band, led by frontman Torre Florim, is known for its alternative, danceable rock with influences from genres such as pop, blues, soul, funk and electronic music.

29-31 JANUARY, PARADISO.NL

Yaeji

Yaeji conquered the alternative club scene in 2017 with the catchy lo-fi hit ‘Raingurl’, before collaborating with stars such as Charli XCX and Dua Lipa. On her long-awaited debut album, she pours a lifetime of rage and activism into a light-hearted mix of hyper-k-pop, R&B and experimental electronica.

7 NOVEMBER, MELKWEG.NL

Will Westerman’s atmospheric indie pop recorded during lockdown has resulted in some of the most adventurous songwriting of his career.

30 OCTOBER, BITTERZOET.COM

The Rotterdam-born singer, songwriter and producer with Kurdish roots makes contemporary, minimalistic pop using natural sounds from the environment. Her debut album, Never Have I Ever, proves the artist’s versatility and incredibly layered songwriting. Arabic influences mixed with Western sounds create a rare authenticity only Naaz can deliver.

14 DECEMBER, PARADISO.NL

Isaac Anderson

The British-born singer-song writer and former frontman of In Hindsight creates much of his alternative indie pop music in his bedroom. With its catchy pop melodies and energetic guitar work, his debut EP immediately caught the public’s attention. ‘Get Me Out Alive’ –a song about social awkwardness at parties –became hugely popular on TikTok.

25 NOVEMBER, TOLHUISTUIN.NL

© ALEXANDER POPULIER

Four hands are better than two at the Piano Duo Festival, covering everything from classical and jazz to film and tango.

7-10 DECEMBER PIANODUOFESTIVAL.NL

Classical & Jazz

Magnificat: Netherlands Bach Society

There’s no better place to ring in the festive season than with this varied and ingenious programme by t he Netherlands Bach Society at the Muziekgebouw aan ‘t IJ. The concert begins in the Renaissance and ends with Bach’s magisterial Magnificat in the original version. Embark on a musical journey from darkness to light, which mesmerises with both the anticipation of Advent and the joy of Christmas.

Candlelight Concert

ADE: Svirsky & Van Houdt

Several times a year, hundreds of burning candles and beautiful acoustics create unique concert evenings in the stunning Portuguese Synagogue. This time, in collaboration with Amsterdam Dance Event, experience River Without Banks, a composition for two pianos, played by Leo Svirsky and Reinier van Houdt. And not very unlike electronic dance music – the focus of ADE – both exceptional pianists create a sense of timelessness with repeating patterns.

19 OCTOBER, JCK.NL

Lichtbende: Garden Of Delight

19 DECEMBER, MUZIEKGEBOUW.NL

Housed in the heritage-listed Parkkerk, close to Vondelpark, Orgelpark is an international concert hall that aims to give a new face to the church organ in contemporary music. The highlight on this autumn’s programme is the emotional performance Garden of Delight, inspired by William Blake’s poem, where organ music, singing, percussion and live image projections combine with spectacular effects.

17 & 18 NOVEMBER, ORGELPARK.NL

Kaki King

Described as a ‘musical genre unto herself’, Kaki King delights listeners with her exceptional acoustic guitar playing, regularly using the strings like a piano or percussion instrument. She excels as a singer and composer, alternating captivating songs full of emotional outpourings with layered instrumentals. Don’t miss her performance at BIMHUIS – Amsterdam’s temple to modern jazz.

12 NOVEMBER, BIMHUIS.NL

© MILAGRO ELSTAK

© BOGDAN URMA

On Screen

In collaboration with Kaboom Animation Festival, the monthly anime screenings bring classics, cult films and rare anime gems to the Melkweg Cinema. MELKWEG.NL

Camera Japan

Benelux ’ largest Japanese fi lm festival, Camera Japan is characterised by its diverse programme. In addition to the best, the weirdest and the most unexpected feature fi lms, documentaries and anime, attention is paid to visual arts, music, dance, fashion, architecture, food and much more.

28 SEPTEMBER-1 OCTOBER, CAMERAJAPAN.NL

West Beach (Film) Festival

There’s nothing like a lakeside setting to add drama to your cinema experience. West Beach (Film) Festival celebrates its 20th anniversary this year, screening a diverse programme of films on the edge of Sloterplas Lake in the last warm evenings of September. Enjoy an eclectic mix of Dutch and English titles during two weeks of payas-you-feel waterfront movie mania.

20-24 SEPTEMBER, WESTBEACHFILMFESTIVAL.COM

Amsterdam Spanish Film Festival

Calling all lovers of Spain, culture fanatics and film buffs, the Amsterdam Spanish Film Festival returns to LAB111, Pathé Tuschinski, Eye Filmmuseum and the OBA library. This year, the programme mainly consists of Dutch premieres with various talented fe-

male directors highlighted. In addition to the broad range of screenings, immerse yourself in the atmosphere as you enjoy live music, Spanish gastronomy and Q&As. 24-26 NOVEMBER, AMSTERDAMSPANISHFILMFESTIVAL.COM

Feed me. Cheat me. Eat me.

Spoken language rarely features in artist and filmmaker Janis Rafa’s evocative films and installations; she focuses instead on the silent presence of non-humans, allowing them to become the leading force within her poetic compositions. In this new solo presentation, Rafa’s narratives emphasise animalistic instincts and untamed behaviours alongside human fears. An extensive programme of public talks and screenings accompanies the exhibition.

14 OCTOBER-7 JANUARY, EYEFILM.NL

Imagine

For the best in fantasy, horror and science fiction, the Imagine Film Festival challenges viewers to question the future of humankind and society. Along with screenings, workshops, masterclasses and games, prescient themes such as disaster scenarios from eco-horror and Cli-Fi (climate fiction) are discussed in accessible talks that actively involve audiences.

25 OCTOBER-4 NOVEMBER

IMAGINEFILMFESTIVAL.NL

Pathé Tuschinski

A stone’s throw from Rembrandtplein, the Pathé Tuschinski Cinema was voted the most stunning movie theatre in the world by Time Out. Commissioned by Abraham Icek Tuschinski in 1921, the interior and exterior blend several designs, with a heavy emphasis on Art Deco. Like the décor, the movies are also a mix of styles; Hollywood blockbusters play next to art house darlings. Be sure to arrive early enough to gaze admiringly at the ornate ceiling. Or, up the date-night ante and book private old-school love seats complete with a snack and movie-inspired cocktails from the swanky bar.

REGULIERSBREESTRAAT 26-34, EN.PATHE.NL

IDFA

The much anticipated International Documentary Film Festival Amsterdam returns with another solid documentary selection. Expect films tackling life, love, politics and society, along with a trend-setting programme of talks, performances, and interactive and immersive projects. Screenings will take place at cinemas around the city, including at the festival’s new permanent location dedicated to all things non-fiction: the monumental Vondelpark Pavilion.

8-19 NOVEMBER, IDFA.NL

Paco León, Rainbow

Set up like the home of a Jewish family, the Jewish Museum

Junior’s exhibits invite children to learn Hebrew, bake bread in the kosher kitchen and play music.

JCK.NL

Weekend of Science

It’s all about discovery and interactivity at NEMO Science Museum and during their Weekend of Science, the museum is completely free to enter. Get acquainted with playful exhibitions where kids can experience the wonders of science and technology to

Groote Museum

Why do we exist? Where do we come from? What are our bodies made of? And how are humans different from animals? For the most curious of little minds, the Groote Museum (Museum of Big Questions) hopes to answer their burning questions about science, natural history and human existence through innovative interactive displays.

GROOTEMUSEUM.NL

their heart’s content. The programme also includes lectures, workshops and chances to build your own chain reaction, tinker with gears, do lab chemistry experiments and meet a real scientist.

Annual cinema festival Cinekid in the autumn holidays has various film, documentary and animation screenings for children aged between 3 and 14 years, alongside interactive installations and workshops. This year’s edition, titled Is dit echt? (Is this real?), takes a fascinating look at artificial intelligence (AI) and its impact on popular media, film, visual language and storytelling. Children will learn to see AI as a creative ally, find out how it works, and what the risks are concerning fake news and deepfake videos.

Tropen museum Junior

Located in a majestic building on the edge of the Oosterpark, Tropenmuseum Junior was created especially for children ages 6 to 13. It is part of the Tropenmuseum, a renowned institution focused on non-Western cultures. The hands-on exhibits introduce children to new cultures in a playful way that sparks their curiosity.

TROPENMUSEUM.NL

15-29 OCTOBER, CINEKID.NL

7-8 OCTOBER, NEMOSCIENCEMUSEUM.NL

To kick off the tulip season, Dutch growers invite everyone for National Tulip Day to pick a bunch of tulips for free in a garden at Museumplein. 20

Amsterdam Light Festival

Festive Markets

During Amsterdam Light Festival, the city becomes a real-life fairy tale, sparkling with glowing artworks illuminating the city’s historic bridges and waterfronts. Installations adorn the Canal Ring, the River Amstel and the Eastern Docklands, taking the city’s night-time sights to an entirely new level. During the 12th edition, 20 artworks consider the implication of artificial intelligence, questioning the impact of technology on the human condition. The artworks can be admired by organised boat tours or on foot.

30 NOVEMBER-21 JANUARY, AMSTERDAMLIGHTFESTIVAL.COM

Winterparadijs

RAI Amsterdam transforms into a winter wonderland in December with indoor and outdoor ice-skating rinks, parties in the Après-Ski Village, dining options galore and fairground rides overlooking the city. Tube across real (fake) snow, cross-country ski between the fir trees, roast marshmallows over a crackling fire, practice your curling skills or goof off with a classic snowball fight. When it's all too much fun, head into the Winter Cinema for nostalgic festive classics.

14-31 DECEMBER, HETAMSTERDAMSEWINTERPARADIJS.NL

Throughout the month of December, Amsterdam overflows with festive spirit. Markets become more than a place to buy food and trinkets – they become a place to warm up with glühwein and oliebollen (deep fried dough balls) and find the perfect gifts. Keep an eye on the cultural agenda online for a roundup of this year’s festive markets. IAMSTERDAM.COM/CHRISTMASMARKETS

TCS Amsterdam Marathon

The 47th edition of this major sporting event will again attract top athletes from all over the world to compete. As one of the flattest and most scenic routes, the TCS Amsterdam Marathon is ranked among the best in the world. In addition to the classic distance, you’ll find the Mizuno Half Marathon, TCS 8 km and two youth events on the programme. All routes finish at the historic Olympic Stadium in Zuid.

15 OCTOBER, TCSAMSTERDAMMARATHON.NL

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© CHAIRWAVE VOUW © CHAIRWAVE VOUW

Swing by the Rush Hour store to dig for vinyl in all genres and catch DJs spinning records for in-store parties during ADE.

SPUISTRAAT 110, RUSHHOUR.NL

DGTL

This year’s lineup is undoubtedly one of the most extensive DGTL programmes to date. The marathon weekend of house, techno and electronic music opens with unmissable sets on Thursday from Bicep, Dixon and Stephan Bodz-

Amsterdam Dance Event

ADE takes place every October, bringing more than 2,500 of the world’s biggest and up-and-coming electronic artists to play in venues across the city. The festival also brings music industry professionals together, connecting musicians, producers and DJs at a massive music conference featuring hundreds of guest speakers at 450 events. It ’s five days of guaranteed partying for some 395,000 clubbers. Find the complete line-up online as countless more acts are announced.

18-22 OCTOBER, AMSTERDAM-DANCE-EVENT.NL

Into the Woods

in, who promise to blow the roof off the NDSM Warehouse. Friday is all about ‘House of Love by Folamour’, with high-energy beats promised from the beloved Jayda G, house and techno-pop producer David Vunk and Gerd Janson to seal the deal. The Blessed Madonna takes the helm on Saturday, rounded off by festival favourite Peggy Gou on Sunday.

19-22 OCTOBER, DGTL.NL/ADE

The industrial terrain of NDSM Wharf is the setting for daytime festival Into the Woods, plunging partygoers into monstrous music across elaborate indoor and outdoor stages. The confirmed lineup includes Blawan, Jennifer Loveless, Young Marco, Ben UFO, Peach, Tjade, Samuel Deep, Saoirse and Héctor Oaks, among many others. When you’ve danced till you drop, take a seat admiring the art of live painting artists, hop on an animal on wheels for a joyride or shop your new festival outfit at the market. 20 & 21 OCTOBER, INTOTHEWOODS.NL

Thuishaven

Located on the outskirts of Amsterdam West, Thuishaven, with its various indoor stages, heated tents and newly crafted hangar, radiates raw industrial energy at the ever-evolving site. Every new visit brings to light new details and surprises – making it one of Amsterdam’s most extraordinary venues. Their ADE lineup is jam-packed, warming up with tech-house from Mau P (Insomnia Records) on Wednesday and culminating in explosive sets courtesy of DIØN & Friends, Courtoisy and Vaulted Agency on Sunday.

18-22 OCTOBER, THUISHAVEN.NL

Tinlicker & Metropole Orchestra

The official kick-off to ADE is a unique collaboration of the progressive Metropole Orchestra with the electronic duo Tinlicker. Their signature mix of progressive house, indietronica and melodic techno lends itself perfectly to an orchestral remake. Under the direction of conductor Simon Dobson, the compelling electronic beats, fiery rousing arpeggios and acoustic live instrumentation melt together – promising to be the most danceable opening concert to date.

18 OCTOBER, MELKWEG.NL

Superstar DJ, Here We Go!

Martin Garrix talks global superstardom, holding onto his roots and another ADE homecoming.

Born and raised in Amsterdam neighbour Amstelveen, Martijn Garritsen became known worldwide as Martin Garrix after the worldwide success of his single ‘Animals’ in 2013, at the age of just 17. Since topping DJ Mag’s Top 100 DJs list for multiple years, the DJ and producer has had numerous hits featuring artists ranging from Bono & The Edge and Dua Lipa to

David Guetta and fellow countryman Tiësto, who discovered Garrix as a teenager. Garrix has since played some of the most prestigious festivals and residencies in electronic dance music, and now prepares to return to Amsterdam Dance Event for his fifth series of headline shows. We asked him the ins and outs about his life, work and, of course, about Amsterdam.

You have been a DJ – and a successful one, to say the least – for ten years now. How was it to find international fame so extraordinarily young?

‘The past ten years have been a wild rollercoaster ride, but I can’t forget my roots. I never expected my hobby to develop into a career that would take me all over the world, experiencing the most amazing things. I’m so grateful for the people around me: my family, friends and team keep me grounded and never treat me any differently than they always did.’

How was it back then to be welcomed into the scene by your own musical inspirations?

‘At first it’s crazy to get to know the artists that inspired you. I remember being a visitor in the crowd at Tomorrowland festival in 2013 with my friends when David Guetta, Afrojack and Nicky Romero played [my breakthrough hit] ‘Animals’ in their backto-back set. At that point I thought I’d reached the peak of my career and that it couldn’t get any better. But it turned out to only be the start of everything.’

Do you sometimes have to pinch yourself?

‘Definitely! It’s something I’ll never take for granted. Even after all these years, I never get tired of playing shows – and I’m nervous for every single one of them!’

The superstar DJ lifestyle has a mythology of being pretty hardcore, but one of the things you’re known for is hugs. How important have love and kindness been in your career?

‘I’m a big hugger! I think love and kindness is important for everyone. Otherwise the lifestyle can be tough. You’re always on the road, playing to colossal crowds and surrounded by admirers, so you have to make sure everyone’s happy. Being understanding towards each other and treating every person you meet with kindness is so important, in this industry and everywhere.’

pizza anywhere). I also love hitting the canals on a boat: that’s how you get the best views.’

This October, your spectacular ADE shows at RAI Amsterdam return once again. What should we expect, if we’re lucky enough to get a ticket?

‘It’s the first time in four years that we’re bringing these shows back to ADE, and we’re working on a pretty insane production for this one. I honestly can’t wait to play these shows again, especially since the Saturday party is for all ages, which means all my youngest fans can be there too.’

ADE’s global importance for electronic music is in no small part thanks to you and other Dutch DJs. What does ADE mean to you?

What do you look forward to most when you come back home?

‘Definitely seeing my friends and family. Being able to have dinner at my parent’s house and eat my mum’s homemade food is something I always miss when I’m on tour.’

You were born and raised in Amstelveen, but live in the city. Do you feel like an Amsterdammer?

‘Amsterdam was always the big city, the one with the good parties, festivals and concerts. It feels like home, even though I love spending time in Amstelveen as well.’

Sharing is caring, so do you have any insider tips for Amsterdam visitors?

‘Even after touring the world, a lot of my favourite spots are here in Amsterdam. Some of my favourite restaurants are Nela, The Duchess and FIKO (for some of the best

‘ADE is one of a kind. It’s great to have so many of my friends in my hometown to celebrate our industry. People from all over the world travel to our tiny country just for this event. It’s really special to see how Amsterdam transforms into this global hub of networking, conferences and parties. It’s the centre of the world for electronic dance music – not bad for my backyard.’

After your first full-length studio album last year, fans are obviously hoping for a follow-up. What do we have to look forward to from Martin Garrix in the coming months?

‘I’m working on lots of new music! I’m putting the finishing touches on a bunch of different projects and songs, and I can’t wait to share them with everyone.’

Martin Garrix plays RAI Amsterdam during Amsterdam Dance Event on Friday 20 October at 10pm (18+) and Saturday 21 October at 5pm (all ages). Garrix’ label STMPD RCRDS also hosts a special night at AIR Amsterdam on Thursday 19 October.

‘It’s really special to see how Amsterdam transforms into this global hub of networking, conferences and parties.’

Johan Cruijff ArenA

Sporting the name of the greatest Dutch football player of all time, the massive Johan Cruijff ArenA is the home turf of Amsterdam’s beloved football team, Ajax. On match days, the stadium roars with red and white-clad fans, and a game is well

worth experiencing if you’re in town. Diehard sports buffs can also book a 75-minute behind-the-scenes tour to see parts of the arena generally reserved for officials and players.

JOHAN CRUIJFF BOULEVARD 1 JOHANCRUIJFFARENA.NL

❤ R S

A T I

Home to more than 750 animal species, the Aquarium and the Planetarium, ARTIS Zoo is one of Amsterdam’s most prominent family attractions. Time your visit to coincide with feeding times for some splashy spectacles (the penguins are a mustsee). Little ones can burn off steam in the play area, and parents can call time out at the café terrace overlooking the flamingo enclosure. Next door, Micropia is dedicated to the tiniest but most powerful things on our planet, microbes, and Groote Museum focuses on science, natural history and human existence. More on that on page 44!

PLANTAGE KERKLAAN 38-40

ARTIS.NL, MICROPIA.NL, GROOTEMUSEUM.NL

Hortus by Night

This winter, it’s time to get cosy at one of the world’s oldest botanical gardens, as the doors remain open until late for Hortus by Night. Venture through the beautifully lit greenhouses as you discover ancient palms, tropical plants and a spectacular exhibition by artist Markos Kay. Using computer-generated images, Kay takes viewers on an enchanting journey through evolutionary biology and plant-animal relationships. Experience exclusive exhibitions featuring night-blooming flowers and much more.

21 DECEMBER-7 JANUARY, DEHORTUS.NL

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© EDWIN BUTTER

© RONALD VAN WEEREN

© RONALD VAN WEEREN

© EDWIN BUTTER

© RONALD VAN WEEREN

For full listings of what’s on in Amsterdam, visit our website: iamsterdam.com/ whatson

Gaudí: Archictect of the Imaginary

40 years of dance

The latest exhibition at the world’s first museum dedicated to electronic music, Defining Moments, covers more than four decades of memories, from 1977 to 2020. From Kraftwerk’s debut to Detroit techno and Chicago house, immerse yourself in the wall-towall installations featuring the iconic moments and tracks that led dance music to become the global phenomenon it is today.

ONGOING, OUR-HOUSE.COM

Heineken Experience

Housed inside Heineken’s historic brewery, this interactive museum will take you on an exciting, behind-the-scenes journey through the wild world of one of Europe’s most popular pilsners. After Heineken constructed a new brewery on the outskirts of Amsterdam, they converted their former home into a museum.

STADHOUDERSKADE 78, HEINEKENEXPERIENCE.COM

Marvel at the prowess of rowers and helmsmen as more than 140 teams participate in the Grachtenrace Amsterdam through Amsterdam’s historic canals.

7 OCTOBER, GRACHTENRACE.AMSTERDAM

See art come to life at the largest immersive art centre in the Netherlands: Fabrique des Lumières – situated in the former 19th-century gasworks at Westergas. Gaudí: Architect of the Imaginary takes viewers on an audiovisual journey through the imagination of the visionary Catalan architect known for his wavy facades, organic patterns and captivating colours. Using advanced technology, the artworks are brought to life by 100+ state-of-the-art projectors and accompanying music.

UNTIL END DECEMBER

FABRIQUELUMIERES.COM

Rembrandt’s Amsterdam Experience

Step back 350 years in time at this spectacular 5D experience. Enter Rembrandt’s last studio, where you will be taken on a journey through the life of Amsterdam’s most famous painter. Here you’ll meet Rembrandt, his partner Hen-

drickje, his son Titus and his daughter Cornelia. Eager to discover more? There’s also a walking tour that guides you through Rembrandt’s Amsterdam.

WETERINGSCHANS 2

REMBRANDTSAMSTERDAM.COM

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City Guide

56

Explore Amsterdam’s neighbourhoods

’s

TEXT: VERITY SEWARD, TEXT SHOPPING: KARIN ENGELBRECHT

For more information on the neighbourhoods of Amsterdam see: iamsterdam.com/ neighbourhoods

The Loft

Dance until the morning light on the 16th oor of Amsterdam’s iconic A’DAM Tower at The Loft, where the oor-to-ceiling windows tower over the River IJ with breathtaking vistas. Keep an eye out for Audio Obscura’s intimate sunrise and sunset parties during Amsterdam Dance Event (18-22 October), strictly under the musical guidance of electronic music’s greatest names.

AUDIO-OBSCURA.COM, ADAMTOREN.NL

ZUIDAS

NELSON MANDELA PARK

GAASPERPLAS

JAAP EDENBAAN

JOHAN CRUIJFF ARENA

Noord

REBEL WITH A CAUSE

Kraanspoor at NDSM

Fishermen and shipbuilders once built their homes along the scenic Nieuwendammerdijk and most likely frequented Café ’t Sluisje –a 120-year-old brown café overlooking the harbour.

NIEUWENDAMMERDIJK 297, CAFEHETSLUISJE.NL

Ferry Good Adventures

Quirky Amsterdam Noord boasts the best of contrasting worlds, with historic villages and hip waterside hangouts around every corner.

Cranes stand tall, marking Noord’s horizon in an ode to its industrial past and the many new architectural developments popping up across the River IJ. In recent decades, this rapidlyevolving neighbourhood has increasingly attracted more festivals, art spaces, gig venues, fantastic dining options and trendy waterfront bars to its shores. The free ferry from behind Central Station will take you there in minutes, so don’t miss your chance to explore this quirky and varied area of Amsterdam.

Alternative culture

When you step off the ferry, the wide IJplein promenade leads visitors towards the eye-catching architecture of the Eye Filmmuseum and A’DAM Tower. In the maze of industrial buildings behind, trendy food and drink hotspots such as urban winery Chateau Amsterdam, taqueria Coba and vinyl bar Corner Store redefine industrial-chic. Music venues and clubs such as Tolhuistuin, Skatecafé, Garage Noord and boutique cinema FC

Hyena have turned the area into a much-revered bastion of Amsterdam’s alternative culture. Make your way through the urban jungle and the lush green Noorderpark, and you'll find the gateway to quaint villages and spectacular countryside typical of the Old Holland region.

Shipyard hangout

Alternatively, take the ferry slightly west towards NDSM Wharf. Repurposed into a cultural haven with a reputation for rebellious creativity and groundbreaking graffiti, this former shipyard was once the largest in the Netherlands. The urban plaza is now packed with art spaces such as Nieuw Dakota or STRAAT Museum for street art, magnificent new restaurants such as Helling 7 and NEXT overlooking the river, and waterside hangouts such as Pllek and Noorderlicht Watch this historic wharf’s hangars and open spaces transform with booming techno festivals such as Into the Woods and DGTL during Amsterdam Dance Event in October.

For more information on Amsterdam Noord, check out the Neighbourhood Guide on our website: iamsterdam.com/ neighbourhoods

‘Our favourite spot to grab a drink is Herberg het Mandelahuisje, on the banks of the River IJ, where it’s light and cosy.’

Rene and Ingrid (both 67), retired, and their dog Mini

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Noord

Strijk Design

This vintage chair specialist is situated in an office park, but well worth seeking out for affordably priced design classics from the 1950s to the 1970s. Last time we checked, the collection included Eero Aarnio’s Tomato Chair, Ahrend Revolt Chairs, rib cord Gispen dining chairs and Gijs Bakker’s Strip Chairs. Open on Saturdays and by appointment during the rest of the week.

ASTERWEG 137, STRIJKDESIGN.NL

Van der Pekstraat

Named after its 1920s architect, this vibrant street has much to offer, from an eponymous market (Wed, Fri-Sat) to interesting spots such as the inclusive toy shop Colourful Goodies, concept store Pek & Kleren, Indonesian eatery Kannibalen en Paradijsvogels, vintage decorfocused Treasure Depot, and preloved kid’s clothing store Rookie

BUZZIEST SHOPPING STREET

MEEUWENLAAN 138, VLIEGENBOSAMSTERDAM.NL

SEXYLAND World

Utterly experimental and always unexpected, SEXYLAND World is a cultural clubhouse that operates under a not-for-profit model with a different owner daily. That means you could find anything on the agenda, from drag performances, community cook-off s and poetry slams to knitting groups, talks and a kaleidoscopic array of club nights. Upstairs, Order Sichuan is a vibey spot for tongue-numbing dishes complemented by great water views.

Lard Breebaart (46), owner of Kometen Brood bakery-café

Lagerwal and Helling 7

Discover Noord’s most stunning wharfside terrace at Lagerwal, where scenic cityscapes and views of boats are paired with local beers on tap, pitcher cocktails, great food and music. In collaboration with the neighbouring restaurant, Helling 7, most dishes are prepared on an open fire. Both locations offer one of the most romantic perspectives over the river, complete with industrial vibes typical of Amsterdam Noord.

TT MELISSAWEG 55 & 57, LAGERWAL.NL, HELLING7.NL

‘I always dreamt of becoming a baker,’ says Lard, who started his now-booming bakery as a ‘Corona hobby’ after a career as a designer and strategist. ‘It gave me the perfect chance to find my way in sourdough baking, with my mum helping with the cakes. Later, we had the opportunity to create a bakery and café in a temporary space. We recently moved to the NDSM Wharf, where there’s room to build our dream bakery. Everything’s open; you can see all the steps in the baking process or get your hands dirty during our workshops. We always serve several kinds of sourdoughs and focaccia and vienoisserie such as pain au chocolat and crolus (a cross between an old-school Dutch bolus and a croissant). The Classic Bâtard is my favourite: it’s pure simplicity with a slice of cheese and some heirloom tomatoes. In 2024, we will open a small shop and café on the Marineterrein (Kattenburgerstraat 5-022).’

MS VAN RIEMSDIJKWEG 2, KOMETENBROOD.NL

NOORDWAL 1, SEXYLAND.WORLD

Top marks to HEMA for making homework fun with these mini food-themed markers (€1.75).

NDSM-STRAAT 12, HEMA.NL

Full of beautiful ancient elms, winding paths and public art, Vliegenbos forest is perfect for a nature walk or an overnight stay at the campsite.

Noord

Find stunning stoneware plates, bowls and vases beloved by Dutch cookbook creators at Marjoke de Heer ’s charming ceramics studio.

SCHELLINGWOUDERDIJK 243 MARJOKEDEHEER.COM

Kaashandel Kef

You’re in expert hands at Amsterdam’s most famous cheese specialist. Whether your tastes run to blue, red, white, hard, soft, goat’s or sheep cheese, if it’s French (or Dutch), you’ll find it here. There’s also a tasting room, where you can discover nine (raw milk) varieties from small-scale producers, paired with bread and wine (from €32.50 pp).

BUNK

Situated in a converted church, the cleverly-designed hotel rooms and sleeping pods at BUNK come with all the amenities required for a comfortable stay. Along with affordable dinners from the on-site restaurant and a sun-soaked terrace, keep an eye on the agenda for exhibitions, lectures, poetry nights, live music, movie screenings and showcases by the hotel’s artist-in-residence.

HAGEDOORNPLEIN 2, WEAREBUNK.COM

Ambacht in Beeld Festival

This festival turns NDSM Loods into an extra-large public workshop, with more than 90 international artisans and craftspeople giving masterclasses and demonstrations. Marvel at everything from clothing repair workshops and Turkish ceramics to marbling paper and embroidery. There is also a vegan food court, documentary screenings, a live music stage and a materials fair.

23 & 24 SEPTEMBER, AMBACHTINBEELDFESTIVAL.NL

The Future Should Always Be Better

A new art project initiated by the NDSM-werf Foundation in collaboration with Kinetisch Noord Foundation, this group exhibition presents the work of 12 young and established (inter)national artists whose towering art installations take over the public outside space and cavernous interiors of the warehouses at NDSM Wharf. By disrupting the status quo of how monuments are made, preserved and interpreted, the exhibition hopes to contribute to a future society defined by joy, regeneration and repair.

16 DECEMBER-18 FEBRUARY, NDSM.NL

VAN DER PEKPLEIN 1B ABRAHAMKEF.NL

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BRAM KLOOS

Amsterdam has a long heritage in the diamond trade and HOUSE of GASSAN is the perfect spot to dive into the history of this brilliant industry.

Diamonds

Experience tour

Discover the history of diamond craftsmanship on the Diamond Experience, where guides will lead you through the diamond factory and explain about carats, colours, clarity, cuts and the GASSAN 121, a unique cut diamond. There’s also a VIP tour through HOUSE of GASSAN.

Shopping heaven

GASSAN is not only known as a dealer of diamonds but also as one of the market leaders in Haute Joaillerie and Haute Horlogerie. On the ground floor, you will find an extensive jewellery collection in the Boutique, including a special Rolex shop. And don’t forget the pre-owned boutique, where you can find your ‘new’ vintage gem.

ASparkling Tradition

The tradition of diamond cutting is part of the Dutch cultural heritage. In the historical heart of Amsterdam, rough diamonds are still transformed into dazzling jewels on a daily basis. Delve into the exciting world of diamond cutting and see every step of the process first-hand at HOUSE of GASSAN, where four centuries of craftsmanship and tradition are brought to life. GASSAN Diamonds was founded just after World War II in 1945 and specialised in the import and export of polished and rough diamonds. Today, the family-owned company is located in a beautifully restored factory built in 1879, where the diamonds are still polished and cut in-house. Learn all about carats, clarity, cuts and the history of diamond craftsmanship on the free tour. The shops – a Rolex Boutique, a TROPHY by GASSAN shop, Choices by DL, GASSAN 121, Gigi by GASSAN and even a pre-owned corner – offer something for everyone. Because diamonds are not just a girl’s best friend.

OF GASSAN, NIEUWE UILENBURGERSTRAAT

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Buff and polish

Take a seat behind the grinder yourself with the Diamond Polishing Experience, where you can apply the final facets to your own diamond and learn first-hand how these rough stones are polished into dazzling gems.

HOUSE

Zuid

62 | FINE ARTS & LEAFY STREETS

Word of South

From age-old art to highend chic, the stately museums and up-market boutiques of Oud-Zuid lend the district a luxurious edge with an array of designer shops and luxury hotels sprinkled along the flashy P.C. Hooftstraat. The crown jewel is Museumplein, where the Rijksmuseum (pictured) presides along with the Van Gogh Museum, Stedelijk Museum and Royal Concertgebouw concert hall. Surrounded by gorgeous villas and tranquil curving streets,

the nearby Vondelparkis the city’s most popular playground. Then there’s the bohemian neighbourhood of De Pijp, which oozes village-like charm and is a popular haunt for foodies, young internationals and revellers from across the city. Along its bustling Albert Cuyp Market, you’ll find trendy brunch spots and noodle bars positioned behind the fruit and veg stalls. The area transforms into a lively after-work hangout, with cocktail bars, hip natural wine bars and old-school brown cafés.

Albert Cuyp Market

The Albert Cuyp Market has been o ering its wares for over a century. Stroll past vendors selling everything from fresh seafood and cheese to novelty t-shirts, hand-woven rugs and ceramics. For a real Dutch street food experience, you must stop by one of the old-school haringhandels (herring stalls) to sample fresh herring or kibbeling (deep-fried sh bites).

MONDAY-SATURDAY 9AM-5PM, ALBERT CUYPSTRAAT ALBERTCUYP-MARKT.AMSTERDAM

Royal Concertgebouw

Warm up with soups and stews such as snert and stamppot made from family recipes at caférestaurant ’t Heemelrijck

VAN WOUSTRAAT 23

HEEMELRIJCK.NL

For more information on Amsterdam Zuid, check out the Neighbourhood Guide on our website: iamsterdam.com/ neighbourhoods

If you’re a fan of classical music but have never experienced it live, you'll soon discover that your high-end speakers have nothing on the world-class acoustics of the Royal Concertgebouw. When the rst string in Schubert’s Symphony No. 8 vibrates, every spine in the room tingles. The concert schedule includes nearly yearround, free lunchtime concerts (Wednesdays), and regular 75-minute guided tours.

CONCERTGEBOUWPLEIN 10, CONCERTGEBOUW.NL

Stroll along leafy avenues and unwind in the tranquil parks of Zuid, a scenic neighbourhood full of charm and elegance.

KOEN SMOILDE

Make an elephantine style statement with LOEWE’s new calfskin crossbody in cyan (€680).

P.C. HOOFTSTRAAT 97, LOEWE.COM

Ice*Amsterdam

Every winter, Museumplein is transformed into a wintery paradise with the arrival of Ice*Amsterdam. The cosiest skating rink welcomes everyone, skilled or beginner, to glide about with breathtaking views of the Rijksmuseum. Non-skaters can grab a hot chocolate or snacks from the bistro as they watch the frosty mayhem. In December, you’ll also nd a Christmas market with crackling res and festive stalls.

NOVEMBER-FEBRUARY, ICEAMSTERDAM.NL

OGÉR

Established in 1990 by Oger Lusink as the rst luxury men’s fashion boutique on Amsterdam’s most prestigious shopping street, there’s been a recent makeover but the founder’s passion for quality and craftsmanship remains. The new store is a beautiful backdrop for quietly luxurious Italian brands such as Corneliani and Santoni. Personal advisers are ready to serve everyone, from aspiring grooms to famous footballers and private shoppers.

P.C. HOOFTSTRAAT 75-83, OGER.NL

TRENDING SHOPPING STREET

P.C. Hooftstraat

Named after a 17th-century poet and playwright, P.C. Hooftstraat has been an exclusive shopping destination since the 1970s. Located parallel to Museumplein, this street is your rst stop for big-name designers such as Hugo Boss, Ralph Lauren, Hermes, Gucci and more, alongside high-end jewellers. As the holiday season blossoms, it's also one of the most magical districts to see the twinkling fairy lights and illuminated art installations.

Gerard Doustraat

Head to De Pijp’s shopping street for its clutch of cool concept stores, ranging from the kid-centric De Kleine Parade and Scandi-chic Felice Home of Brands to the eclectic Anna + Nina. There are boutiques such as Baskèts and Lois Jeans, and specialists such as the Spanish deli Pacomer, gluten-free bakery Craft Co ee & Pastry and Mevrouw Hamersma cookbooks.

INSIDER TIP

you will find me at Gelderlandplein. It’s a shopping centre with a great vibe. I meet my friends here, and shoot videos for my music.’

‘I love every corner of my neighbourhood, but mostly

Gavier (28), student and producer

© LISA VAN ZELM

Have the best kibbeling (battered and deep fried cod bites) at the Ten Katemarkt

West-kept Secrets

Bursting with flavour, there’s plenty to see, eat and do in every pocket of the ever-expanding West.

Originally a residential area for working-class families, West is a prime example of how Amsterdam revitalised its neighbourhoods outside the Canal Ring. Bordered by the Vondelpark, Oud-West is a dynamic neighbourhood home to top-notch restaurants, alternative music venues and remarkable developments such as De Hallen – a former tram depot that now houses a boutique hotel, cinema and indoor food hall. West continues into Bos en Lommer and De Baarsjes, where new eateries

spring up weekly, and the streets surrounding leafy Erasmuspark are ideal for an afternoon co ee stroll. Continue towards peaceful Westerpark, where a former gas factory has been transformed into the cultural powerhouse of the Westergas complex (pictured). Meanwhile, recent decades have witnessed the former wood port of Houthavens transformed into a climate-neutral residential enclave attracting a wealth of food hotspots that are way ahead of the curve and boast breathtaking river views.

De School

Museum Het Schip

Dive into the whacky style and origins of the Amsterdam School architectural movement at Museum Het Schip, located in the unique neighbourhood of Spaarndammerbuurt. The Michel de Klerk, inspiration of the Amsterdam School exhibition explores the enormous and ongoing in uence of one of the most in uential architects of the 20th century, focusing on De Klerk’s rich oeuvre, inspiration and the bohemian artistic scene of 1920s Amsterdam.

17 NOVEMBER-1 SEPTEMBER 2024, HETSCHIP.NL

Much likeTrouw in the 2010s or Club RoXY in the 1980s, De School carries a mythical reputation that still resonates in Amsterdam, and the playground gates will remain open until January 2024 for the venue's last hurrah. The entire complex is in a former technical school, with long corridors and breeze-block architecture that will take you back to your classroom years. Tuck into seasonal plates and bites at the restaurant and café DS, which hosts regular events such as storytelling nights, screenings, pop-up record fairs and listening sessions. Amid the dimly-lit spaces, the 24-hour licence at Club DS ensures some of the best electronic music parties unfold, emphasising house and techno, all with a no-photos and safe-space policy.

Bosboom Toussaintstraat

© KOEN SMILDE

DOCTOR JAN VAN BREEMENSTRAAT 1-3, DESCHOOLAMSTERDAM.NL

© MERIJN ROUBROEKS

For more information on Amsterdam West, check out the Neighbourhood Guide on our website: iamsterdam.com/ neighbourhoods

Dine 22m above the water at REM Bar & Restaurant, a former pirate radio station that now serves up the cosiest views over the harbour.

HAPARANDADAM 45-2, REM.AMSTERDAM

Décor for kids

This recently opened o spring of nextdoor Decor Amsterdam extends its ‘haute décor for everyone’ ethos to the kids’ room, with accessibly priced furniture, lighting and accessories. Think teddy bear chairs, robot lamps, rhino coat hooks and powder pu pink ottomans. Bold and colourful, it’s been designed with children in mind, though there is a co ee bar for the parents, too.

OVERTOOM 430, DECORAMSTERDAM.NL

Ten Katemarkt

This bustling centuries-old street market is a rm favourite with locals and foodies. Alongside stalls selling owers, cheese, wine, nuts, deli supplies, fruit and veg, you’ll nd food vendors serving typical Dutch snacks and deep-fried delicacies like kibbeling, loempia (Indonesian spring rolls lled with vegetables or chicken) or a broodje haring (a raw herring sandwich).

MONDAY-SATURDAY 9AM-6PM

TEN KATESTRAAT, TENKATEMARKT.NL

Yellow House

Thanks to the bright yellow walkway, which wraps its way around the outside, you can't miss this dynamic new creative hub. Leisurely lunches pass into the evening when natural wine, sumptuous burgers and mezze platters take over. Special attention is paid to the music, thanks to an eclectic programme of dinner shows, listening sessions and well-attended parties – all supported by an insane sound system.

HIPPEST SHOPPING STREET

Jan Pieter Heijestraat

In 1899, nine badly-built houses collapsed on this then-impoverished street, but thankfully things have greatly improved since, and today you’ll nd trendy women’s fashion at Following Lucy, designer drinks at J&B Craft Drinks, edgy lingerie at Nina.V, and ice cream with funky ‘funcones’ at Jan Pieter IJsje.

INSIDER TIP

‘I’ve been buying my groceries at Toko Otie for the past 15 years, it has everything! When I don’t cook at home, I like to go to Thai Thai Poppetje, for the best Thai street food.’

Vanessa (51), private chef

DANZIGERBOCHT 45R, YELLOWHOUSE.AMSTERDAM

© EDWIN VAN EIS © LISA VAN ZELM

© KOEN SMILDE

A Maze of Canals

The cosmopolitan-yet-quaint village feel of Amsterdam’s Canal Ring is defi ned by its contrasts, with a fantastic juxtaposition of historic churches, romantic bridges, age-old architecture and late-night pursuits. Behind the façades of leaning gabled houses, museums such as Museum Ons’ Lieve Heer op Solder, Museum Van Loon, Foam and Huis Marseille are true hidden gems. Cross into the elegant De 9 Straatjes (Nine Streets) for chocolatiers, cheesemongers and vintage boutiques. A few steps further, Jordaan is a former working-class bastion known for its authentic brown bars, speciality shops and the bustling stalls of Noordermarkt. To the east, De Plantage is a lush cultural garden with tree-lined boulevards teeming with attractions in a very walkable area. You’ll fi nd institutions dedicated to fi ne art, culture and natural history here, including the Jewish Cultural Quarter, Artis Zoo and Hortus Botanicus. Meanwhile, the former warehouses along the Entrepotdok or Marineterrein have been converted into exhibition spaces, waterside bars and fi ne-dining restaurants.

Chin Chin Club

Indulge in an evening of superb Asian-in uenced food, provocative performances and the sound of chinking glasses at Chin Chin Club, which is inspired by Hong Kong’s vibrant nightlife. A dinner show here includes a fabulous ve-course menu, magical live entertainment as you eat and the option to stay on when the venue transforms into an intimate nightclub for the evening.

ROZENGRACHT 133, CHINCHINCLUB.NL

The world-famous Canal Ring is stunning, but behind the gabled mansions, there is so much more to Centrum than first meets the eye.

Find secondhand Hawaiian shirts and pre-loved cowboy boots imported from the US at Vintage Island.

PRINSENGRACHT 201 VINTAGEISLAND.NL

Rummage for secondhand books, maps and prints in Oudemanhuispoort book market, in a hidden passageway within the historic university campus.

MONDAY-SATURDAY 11.30AM-6PM OUDEMANHUISPOORT

NORTVI.

Peruse the entire collection of suitcases (from €199), bags and travel accessories of the Netherlands’ rst sustainable luggage brand. All suitcases are made with 100% recycled linings and 30% recycled outer shells, and come with silent wheels – and a lifetime warranty

RUNSTRAAT 26, NORTVI.COM

Proeflokaal A. van Wees

Occupying a covetable canalside spot, this historic tasting room o ers soul-warming snacks such as bitterballen and croquettes paired with tastings of jenevers and liqueurs from the Van Wees Distillery. Inside, the cavern-like building oozes authentic charm, from the original pump displayed behind the bar to the stone oors.

HERENGRACHT 319, PROEFLOKAALVANWEES.NL

Amsterdam is Crumbling

The Grachtenmuseum (Canal Museum) is about the impeccable urban planning required to construct this city built on water. Alongside the permanent tour, changing exhibitions are laid out in the period rooms. In Amsterdam is Crumbling, Julie Hrudová’s surprising documentary photography captures the restoration of various portions of the Canal Ring in recent years, with a poetic eye.

UNTIL 29 OCTOBER, GRACHTEN.MUSEUM

Heiligeweg

This former pilgrim’s route now connects the popular Leidsestraat and Kalverstraat shopping streets, ideal for those on a mission to nd international names such as Lindt, American Vintage, & Other Stories, L’Occitane and M.A.C Cosmetics. Or mosey through the medieval Het Rasphuis gate to reach the Kalvertoren shopping centre.

‘HOLY WAY’ FOR SHOPAHOLICS

‘Studying for my Media and Culture degree, I love going to Cinecenter, a cosy movie theatre close to Leidseplein.’

Jasmijn (25), student

With an exciting roster of up-and-coming and midcareer artists, GRIMM has rmly secured the Dutch capital a prominent position on the international stage.

KEIZERSGRACHT 241, GRIMMGALLERY.COM

Gallery Hopping

The rich programming of Amsterdam’s lesserknown (and free!) art spaces is always worth exploring on a galleryhopping afternoon.

Vlaams Cultuurhuis de Brakke Grond

Brakke Grond champions everything Flemish in the Netherlands: art, literature, dance, theatre, music, you name it. The institution has been going for 40 years, injecting Amsterdam’s cultural scene with talent from neighbouring Flanders, Belgium. Don’t forget to stop by for refreshments in the quaint courtyard garden.

NES 45, BRAKKEGROND.NL

AKINCI

Established in the late 1980s, AKINCI represents a diverse

array of contemporary artists engaging with socio-political, ecological and gender questions in their work. On the programme, you’ll nd exhibitions in various media including cross-overs between sound, architecture, painting, sculpture, lm and installation.

LIJNBAANSGRACHT 317, AKINCI.NL

Melkweg EXPO

A hotspot for emerging, homegrown photography, Melkweg EXPO’s revolving exhibition programme is consistently playful, accessible and always free. The space provides a plat-

form for emerging local photographers and visual artists to engage with societal issues and pop culture.

MARNIXSTRAAT 409, MELKWEG.NL

Galerie Ron Mandos

With an impressive line-up of Dutch and international artists on the books, this well-loved gallery occupies a spacious location on Prinsengracht. Their welcoming public programme encompasses screenings, talks and openings to help you get to grips with some of the most exciting work produced today.

PRINSENGRACHT 282, RONMANDOS.NL

Galerie Bart

Always on the hunt for artists with a playful sense of humour, Galerie Bart represents both established and emerging names who have graduated in the Netherlands. Expect exhibitions of painting, drawing, photography, sculpture and installation or a merging of media – always presented in an open-to-all way.

ELANDSGRACHT 16, GALERIEBART.NL

© BARBARA VAN DEN BERG

Create an at-home spa with indulgent goodies from Amsterdambased brand Rituals

Rituals

Body

Surrender to a complete pampering in the Body Spa on the second oor. From facials and scrubs to mani-pedis and massages, each appointment is tailored to your speci c needs. Duo massages, including in the Hamman, are available to book with a friend. Across the lower oors, browse for all the premium essentials and plush home furnishings needed to recreate the spa experience at home.

Mind

Let the world melt away at the Mind Oasis on the third oor where technology meets ancient meditation techniques. Boost your personal wellbeing with a brain massage as audio sounds and haptic vibrations envelop you in a private cocoon of calm. Float on a warm waterbed for complete relaxation. The 20-minute hydro massage helps relieve muscle pain and physical stress, leaving you fully rested and recharged.

Soul

Self-Care Sanctuary

In a city as engrossing as Amsterdam, it’s easy to overfi ll our days. So what happens when we let it all go and actively surrender to doing ‘nothing’?

Spread across four floors of a monumental building in the historic centre, House of Rituals is the perfect sanctuary to recharge from hectic daily life and shop for the entire Rituals product range. Whether you’re laden with shopping bags or hopping between meetings, the extraordinary products and innovative treatment packages – ranging from 20 minutes to 1 hour – mean anyone can pop in to escape the city hubbub for a moment

SPUI 10, RITUALS.COM

Finish your visit at Restobar Rouhi on the ground oor, which serves Asian-in uenced cuisine that will awaken your taste buds, as well as cocktails. The sumptuous interiors spill out onto a terrace on the historic Spui. This window onto the thrumming world beyond is a serene gateway back into the rhythm of everyday life.

A shopping and wellbeing experience in the heart of the city, we visited House of Rituals to understand how exploring extraordinary products and relaxation can be an activity in itself.

Exchange allotment-grown vegetables for dining tokens, and attend cooking sessions and ‘swap’ markets at circular restaurant Elixer

New Views

As one of the most culturally diverse, greenest and forward-facing districts, Zuidoost is a corner of Amsterdam that shouldn’t be overlooked. The neighbourhood is home to all that is big in the entertainment world: the Johan Cruij ArenA, Ziggo Dome and AFAS Live are where you’ll want to be if you’re looking for football matches, mega concerts or Star Trek Marathons. Over in the more residential borough of De Bijlmer, you’ll find cultural highlights such as Bijlmer Park-

theater, OSCAM contemporary art museum, outdoor art at Nelson Mandelapark and Hondsrugweg (pictured), and the gra tiadorned Heesterveld Creative Community – one of the liveliest hangouts in this part of town. For green spaces, Gaasperplas o ers streams, beaches and paths. Or further east, explore De Bijlmerweide, a beautiful, family-friendly farm, before heading into Diemerbos for a scenic walk followed by speciality beers at Bird Brewery’s tasting room, House of Bird

ArenA Boulevard

For all that’s big in the entertainment world, this huge square is the place for mega pop and rock concerts and IMAX screenings. Ziggo Dome is the city’s largest multi-purpose space, with large balconies swooping around the boxy arena. Likewise, AFAS Live boasts a capacity of 5,500 and excellent views of the artists on stage whether you’re standing at the very front or seated.

DE PASSAGE 100, ZIGGODOME.NL

JOHAN CRUIJFF BOULEVARD 590, AFASLIVE.NL

INSIDER TIP

‘Bijlmer Parktheater functions as a cultural and social hotspot with diverse programming in theatre, music and film. I love seeing a good play or movie here!’

Claudia (55), communications teacher

EGELDONK, RESTAURANTELIXER.COM

With strong community pride, green spaces and large-scale entertainment, Zuidoost gives a whole different perpective on Amsterdam.

For more information on Amsterdam Zuidoost, check out the Neighbourhood Guide on our website: iamsterdam.com/ neighbourhoods

Amsterdamse Poort

In addition to the usual suspects such as C&A, HEMA and Hunkemöller, there’s an interesting mix of retailers at this conveniently located shopping centre, including colourful fashion and fabrics at Africa Beauty Couture and Suzie’s Sto en, Surinamese jewellery at A Seti, local owers at Amster damse Bloemenpoort and books at Athenaeum bookstore, as well as a wide variety of eateries including Antillean and Indonesian. On some days there’s also an outdoor market.

Museum Vrolik

On weekdays, you can peek at extraordinary medical collections at what can rightly be called one of the most unusual cultural experiences in town. A visit here is certainly not for the faint of heart, as the museum houses the collection of 19th-century medical professor Gerard Vrolik and his son Willem: anatomical models, body parts in formaldehyde, skeletons and skulls.

MEIBERGDREEF 1, AMSTERDAM UMC (HOSPITAL), MUSEUMVROLIK.NL

Anyone hungry for chunky sandwiches, soups or wickedly delicious cakes should head over to the living room of Zuidoost: Oma Ietje

HEESTERVELD 3, OMAIETJE.NL

Bijlmerbios Film House

From 6 October, the open-air lm festival has a permanent location in Zuidoost. The Bijlmerbios Film House is located in the former head o ce of ING, the iconic ‘Het Zandkasteel’ national monument. Their Wednesday to Saturday programming consists of unmissable art house cinema, documentaries and shorts, with various talks and panel discussions on the agenda.

BIJLMERPLEIN 888

BIJLMERBIOS.COM

Bijlmer Bookstore

This Afri-centred bookstore was founded in 2019 by Zuidoost residents (and sisters) Nathifa and Zuwena Elshot because there wasn’t anything like it in the area. Today, they pride themselves on their collection of ction/non- ction, cookbooks and poetry by Black authors from Africa and the diaspora for kids, teens and adults.

PAASHEUVELWEG 8, BIJLMERBOOKSTORE.COM

Add a ash of colour to your out t with a gold-plated brass enamel ring (€50 at All The Luck in the World)

LINNAEUSSTRAAT 20, ALLTHELUCKINTHEWORLD.NL

BETWEEN AMSTEL AND IJ

Proost to Oost

Venture over the Amstel River to Oost, where trendy wine bars and microbreweries sit alongside nostalgic barber shops and thrift stores. The spacious streets are interspersed with lush parks, vibrant culture spots and an impeccable restaurant scene. The Dappermarkt is home to 250 stalls selling patterned textiles, fresh fish, colourful fruits and more, while breweries Poesiat & Kater and Brouwerij ‘t IJ or the pubs surrounding leafy Oosterpark host crowds

that gather on their terraces. Further east, lush Flevopark contains its very own distillery, ‘t Nieuwe Diep, serving homebrewed jenevers and cider from its lakeside tasting room. This neighbourhood has one of the city’s most diverse and vibrant cultural o erings – from the monumental Tropenmuseum and 17th-century city estate Huize Frankendael (pictured) to multidisciplinary venues such as Framer Framed for contemporary art or Studio/K for pioneering cinema.

A Delicious Death

Tot Zover (The Funeral Museum) never disappoints curious minds with its tongue-in-cheek, slightly macabre, but always fascinating exhibition programme exploring the inevitability of dying. A Delicious Death delves into the rituals associated with food during the mourning period, encompassing documentary photography, objects from the collection and contemporary art pieces by participating artists.

UNTIL 11 FEBRUARY TOTZOVER.NL

Full of trendy breweries, cultural spaces and authentic eateries, Oost is expanding rapidly while retaining a unique community flavour.

For more information on Amsterdam Oost, check out the Neighbourhood Guide on our website: iamsterdam.com/ neighbourhoods

Awarded a Green Michelin Star, the beautiful De Kas greenhouse is the perfect place to go for a chef’s menu based on fresh ingredients from their own gardens.

KAMERLINGH ONNESLAAN 3 RESTAURANTDEKAS.COM

Dappermarkt

This historic neighbourhood market boasts hundreds of stalls with a worldwide range. In addition to owers, colourful veggies, cheese, fabrics and speciality ingredients from Suriname, Turkey and Morocco, you’ll also nd food trucks serving typical Dutch snacks and deep-fried delicacies.

MONDAY-SATURDAY 9AM-5PM DAPPERSTRAAT, DAPPERMARKT.NL

Jaap Edenbaan ice rink

Budding speedskaters can use the 400m track of this colossal skating rink, which allows you to glide through several laps without swerving for children. If you haven’t nailed your double axles yet, there’s an indoor rink and a beginner's corner. Be sure to warm up with a slice of apple pie and a hot chocolate in the cosy café afterwards.

OCTOBER-MARCH, RADIOWEG 64, JAAPEDEN.NL

THE

Deguelle Patisserie

Discover the traditionally Dutch and deeply delicious world of the Limburgsevlaai (a speciality from Limburg that may look like a large, open fruit pie but is actually more like a sweet pizza in that it’s baked with a bread-like dough) at Oost’s newest bakery. There are also croissants, fruit tartelettes, cru ns and more.

EERSTE OOSTERPARKSTRAAT 128

DEGUELLE-PATISSERIE.NL

Middenweg

Once lined with country manors owned by wealthy Amsterdam merchants in the 17th century, Middenweg is now a popular shopping street with a selection of specialist stores, from luxe lingerie at Kant to fashion at Biggles, kids’ clothing and toys at Lemonade and baked goods at Le Perron and Vlaamsch Broodhuys

INSIDER TIP

‘Within the orderly chaos

Admiraal is somewhere I go almost every day to grab a coffee, but most of all I like to meet all the lovely people walking in and out.’

Pauli (28), arts teacher at Dons

of Javastraat, De Jonge

© KAAN SENSOY © LISA VAN ZELM

74 | GREEN DISTRICT

Lake City

Built during the expansion of Amsterdam’s western neighbourhoods in the 1950s, Nieuw-West is the largest and greenest district in the city. From leafy Rembrandtpark (pictured) up to the historic village of Sloten, you’ll fi nd countless opportunities for relaxation and recreation. Locals make great use of the area’s outdoors, which centres around Sloterplas lake, with various community festivals, sports events and food markets throughout the year. But it’s not all lakeside

tranquillity at this end of town; venues such as Meervaart theatre, Van Eesteren Museum and Lola Luid are important cultural spaces. RADION hosts everything from photo exhibitions and art fairs to booming techno nights. Meanwhile, new cultural concepts emerge across the neighbourhood as it merges with Sloterdijk. There’s brandnew club RAUM, for example, and beer bar BRET, concealed in repurposed shipping containers with its own urban vineyard and roof garden.

Smyths Toys

Shop an expansive collection of games, trampolines and toys – from Paw Patrol bikes to this year’s must-have Barbie movie merch – for everyone from babies and teens to kidults of all ages.

OOKMEERWEG 416, SMYTHSTOYS.COM

Van Eesteren Museum

Devoted entirely to Cornelis van Eesteren (who developed post-war Nieuw-West into a spacious and green district), this fascinating museum focuses on urban development, 20th-century society and architecture. Collections span indoor pavilions and open-air exhibits. After catching an exhibition, sit at the sprawling new terrace, which slopes to the lakeside.

NOORDZIJDE 31, VANEESTERENMUSEUM.NL

INSIDER TIP

Auk (63), works at UWV, and Tinie (63),

Cultural hotspots throughout Nieuw-West bring fresh innovation and social soul to this green and spacious residential neighbourhood.

‘We are neighbours and walk our dogs together every day around Sloterplas. Our favourite spot to have a drink and a chat is Hotel Buiten.’

retired

© LUUK KRAMER © LISA VAN ZELM

Travelling

Going from one museum to the next or from Noord to Zuidoost? GVB’s trams, metros and buses will take you there.

Getting Around Amsterdam

Amsterdam’s public transport company GVB will take you everywhere by tram, (night) bus, metro and ferry. The network of lines will cover your entire trip through the city, whether you want to go from Noord to Zuid or from Nieuw-

Stress-free travel

Buying a ticket for your public transport journey is no longer necessary. You can simply check in and out of the tram, bus or metro with your debit or credit card, or with your smartphone. It’s that simple!

GVB.NL/OVPAY

Easy planning

The free GVB travel app is your indispensable travel buddy for Amsterdam’s public transport. It helps you plan your journey from A to B, and includes o ers to buy a ticket for one or more days, or for a group. Bonus: you can buy your ticket for a canal cruise or museum at the same time.

GVB.NL/APP

West to Centrum. Hop on the metro and continue by tram and ferry, or the other way around. Travelling is easy with the GVB travel app, as it helps you plan your journey with ease. Have fun in Amsterdam, and see you on the public transport!

GVB.NL/EN

Sightseeing

Did you know that National Geographic referred to tram line 2 as a ‘once in a lifetime experience’ ? That’s certainly no exaggeration, as a ride on this tram line will take you all through Amsterdam and show you all that’s magni cent about our city.

ENJOY BREAKFAST, LUNCH & DINNER AT THE CANALS OF AMSTERDAM

Day Trips Discover the Amsterdam Area

80 Haarlem

85 Castles & Gardens

86 Old Holland

88 Weesp

90 Flowers

91 Beach

92 New Land

Teylers’s Oval Room

Dating back to 1784, Teylers Museum in Haarlem is the Netherlands’ oldest museum and feels like you’re leafing through an antique encyclopedia. The museum is named after Pieter Teyler van der Hulst (1702-1778), a wealthy Haarlemmer who built up considerable art and science collections. After his death, a ‘book and art room’ was built behind his house. People would visit this ultra-modern laboratory to marvel at the latest scientific inventions, books and art. This is all still possible today because the Oval Room has remained virtually unchanged – truly the ‘jewel’ of the Teylers Museum.

SPAARNE 16, HAARLEM, TEYLERSMUSEUM.NL

KEES HAGEMAN

Haarlem

For French-influenced competitive entertainment, head to pétanque paradise Mooie Boules, complete with a street food court, terrace and karaoke rooms.

OERKAPKADE 3, MOOIEBOULES.NL/HAARLEM

PINK de Thierry - living in art

Frans Hals is among the most beloved Dutch painters, renowned for his lively painting style and incredibly lifelike portraits. Opened in 1862, the Frans Hals Museum boasts a dazzling array of works by Hals and his contemporaries, alongside a stimulating mix of modern and contemporary art from the 1880s to the present. For instance, don’t miss the first retrospective of PINK de Thierry, whose playful works unpack the ideals of family and consumer society in the 1980s.

UNTIL 29 OCTOBER, FRANSHALSMUSEUM.NL

City of Stories

A city of remarkable history and culture, Haarlem is home to charming shopping streets, historical monuments and some of the best cultural attractions.

For centuries, Haarlem has been a hub for commerce and culture. Beautiful monuments such as the Amsterdamse Poort, City Hall and De Adriaan windmill reveal the trading port’s rich past. All this presided over by the looming Grote Kerk (or St Bavokerk) – an architectural gem whose 50m steeple has dominated the skyline for centuries. Regularly voted as one of the Netherlands’ best places for retail, the city’s independent delis, vintage boutiques and local craft ateliers lining the Gouden Straatjes (Golden Streets) continue to delight

shoppers, while the bustling Grote Markt is considered by many to be the most beautiful urban square in the country. Flanked by convivial cafes and restaurants, the cobbled streets surrounding the market offer plenty of dining options – from a local terrace beer in the sun to Michelin-starred cuisine.

Cultural powerhouse

Take time to visit some of the country’ s finest museums, including the Frans Hals Museum focussing on the 17th-century Haarlem school, or Teylers Museum, known for its extensive collections of paintings, fossils

Haarlem Vinyl Festival

Don’t miss the world's first multi-day festival dedicated to vinyl culture, from spinning to collecting records. The programme includes a dazzling line-up of talks, in-stores, an art and culture route, dozens of live shows, club nights and, of course, a colossal outdoor record fair for crate diggers. The festival heart will be located at PHIL, with various events at venues across the city.

29 SEPTEMBER-1 OCTOBER HAARLEMVINYLFESTIVAL.COM

© PINK DE THIERRY, AT HOME III, 1987

© KOEN SMILDE

Haarlem

and scientific instruments. For something completely different don’t miss Museum van de Geest (Museum of the Mind) for its exhibitions of ‘outsider’ contemporary art. Round off your day with an evening at the Stadsschouwburg or De Schuur theatres or soaking up the impeccable acoustics at the Philharmonie (PHIL)concert hall. Elsewhere, historic buildings have been transformed into hangouts and cultural spaces, such as Jopenkerk, a modern brewery in a former church, the stunningly renovated FilmKoepel cinema or Patronaat, the iconic gig venue in a former school gymnasium.

Find out more about day trips to Haarlem on iamsterdam.com/ haarlem

De Adriaan

Set in a picturesque riverside location, the De Adriaan windmill has been one of the most striking features of the Haarlem skyline for centuries. A museum inside uses models and installations to explore its history, or you can take a guided tour. The stunning views of Haarlem from the deck will leave you breathless. Alternatively, see the mill from the river on an organised cruise. It’s a beautifully relaxed introduction to the city before exploring the historical attractions in more detail.

PAPENTORENVEST 1A, MOLENADRIAAN.NL, SPAARNE 11A, SMIDTJECANALCRUISES.NL

Wybrand Hendriks was here!

Experience a remarkable cross-fertilisation of art and science at Teylers Museum, the oldest museum in the Netherlands. This season’s exhibition, Wybrand Hendriks was here! promises a fascinating retrospective of the imaginative and versatile work of Wybrand Hendriks (1744-1831). The artist and collector was a former resident of the Pieter Teylers Huis and was responsible for the museum’s affairs when it first opened, enriching its collections with phenomenal drawings by masters such as Rembrandt and Michelangelo, along with his own pieces.

23

SEPTEMBER-7 JANUARY, TEYLERSMUSEUM.NL

©

KOEN SMILDE

Nestled between the dunes and forest, dog-friendly Caprera walking park contains seaside viewpoints, grasslands and more than 180 different plants and trees.

CAPRERA.NU

Stadsschouwburg

One of the most beautiful and oldest theatres in the Netherlands, Haarlem’s Stadsschouwburg does it all: plays, opera, dance and musical shows – often in English or without any speech. The charming classic theatre hall – originally opened in 1918 – boasts golden walls, colourful mosaics, red-plush interiors, ornate ceilings and an eye-catching chandelier. The intimate theatre is lovingly called the bonbonniere (ornate confectionery box) by locals, making it a fabulous setting for a memorable night out.

WILSONSPLEIN 23, THEATER-HAARLEM.NL

St Bavokerk

Flanked by convivial cafés and restaurants, Grote Markt is the historic centre of Haarlem. The Gothic Grote Kerk, or St Bavokerk, has dominated Haarlem’s skyline for centuries. Famous painters Frans Hals and Pieter Saenredam are buried here, and the renowned Müller organ – one of the finest in the world, standing 30m high – was once played by Mozart.

BAVO.NL

‘Upon seeing the picturesque streets of Haarlem, a friend from abroad once told me the city looked like a film set.

FilmKoepel

This recently-opened cinema is housed in a national monument that was once, of all things, a prison. Constructed at the end of the 19th century, the building design was based upon panopticon principles and features a mesmerising free-standing domed ceiling. Nowadays, FilmKoepel – with a total of 600 seats spread across six halls – is the place to catch beautiful arthouse films, the best of Hollywood and everything in between. There are also regular film festivals and premieres with special guests.

HARMENJANSWEG 4, FILMKOEPEL.NL

I already find this to be true in spring and summer, but in the colder months of the year I tend to fall in love with it even deeper. When the temperature drops and the days get shorter, the cosiness of Haarlem stands out when you walk past the magically illuminated waterside or narrow restaurants filled with laughter. I personally love to take on the role of a spectator as I gaze through the old windows, when the world around me is quiet except for the indistinct murmur of conversations happening inside. The people of Haarlem are always looking for fun new experiences and hotspots, and are also brilliant at creating those themselves. My tips for finding the nicest ones: ask a local!’

Rianne Lourens

How to get there

INSIDER'S VIEW

THE OUTLET AROUND THE CORNER

No need to drive to the end of the world

ALWAYS 30-70% OFF

Halfweg 10 min.

from Amsterdam CS

Embark on a culinary adventure on Pampus fort island with their Winter Light dining experience.

3 NOVEMBER-16 DECEMBER, PAMPUS.NL

Castles & Gardens

HISTORY MEETS HORTICULTURE | 85

Tonia. Model and activist

Enchanting Estates

In a first for the museum, Singer Laren is focusing not on an artist or a group of artists but on an artist’s model. Curated by art historian Esther Schreuder, this exhibition delves into the fascinating life and work of Tonia Stieltjes (18811932), who posed for Jan Sluijters, was Mondriaan’s best friend and, above all, was a well-known trade unionist for working women in the Netherlands. In addition to works of art and documentary material, an essential part of Tonia’s life is depicted by two contemporary artists: Iris Kensmil and Brian Elstak.

17 OCTOBER-17 MARCH, SINGERLAREN.NL

Explore fairy-tale castles, fascinating forts and country estates before sailing downriver, dreaming of an aristocratic life by the water.

Follow the Amstel River by boat or bike, and you’ll pass into some spectacular countryside where 17th-century estates built by wealthy merchants line the banks. This lush green region is rich in beautifullypreserved towns and enchanting villages, such as the 12th-century Ouderkerk aan de Amstel, which offers various scenic spots for waterside dining. Elsewhere in the region, country houses such as Sypesteyn CastleMuseum boast period rooms, quaint tearooms and exquisitely manicured gardens. Nature is abundant in the region, and the Westeinderplassen and Loosdrechtse Plassen lakes are dotted with tiny islands teeming with wildlife, picturesque beaches and opportunities for water sports. Meanwhile, fortified towns such as Muiden – home to the medieval Muiderslot Castle (pictured) – and Naarden are fantastic for exploring the Defence Line of Amsterdam, a ring of fortifications around the Dutch capital.

Grote Kerk Naarden

Encompassed by two elaborate star-shaped moats and stone walls, Naarden is one of the most remarkable examples of a fortified town in Europe. The interiors of Naarden’s Grote Kerk are well worth a visit, with impressive architectural details such as the famous barrel-vaulted ceiling. The acoustics make for spectacular classical concerts, including The Brandenburg Concertos (3 October), The Dutch Bach Society: Magnificat! (13 December) and The Netherlands Blazers Ensemble & Bart Moeyaert (21 February). Check the website for the full agenda. GROTEKERKNAARDEN.NL

How to get there

Muiderslot Castle: Take the train from Amsterdam Central to Weesp, transfer to bus 110 and get off at bus stop Muiden Centrum (30 minutes). Naarden: Take bus 209 from Amsterdam Bijlmer ArenA to bus stop Westwalstraat, Naarden (40 minutes). Singer Laren Museum: Take the train from Amsterdam Central to Hilversum, transfer to bus 108 or 109 to Laren (50 minutes).

Find out more about day trips to Castles & Gardens on iamsterdam. com/castles

© CRIS TOALA OLIVARES

© JAN SLUIJTERS, PORTRAIT OF TONIA STIELTJES CA. 1920

Old Holland

Find out more about day trips to Old Holland on iamsterdam.com/ oldholland

Dutch Heritage

With its picturesque fishing villages, traditional artisans and lush windmill-studded landscapes, discovering Old Holland feels like stepping back in time.

Old Holland showcases the traditions the Netherlands became famous for: shipbuilding, clogs, fishing and cheesemaking. For a fantastic trip back in time, head to Volendam, Edam and Marken –picturesque fishing towns on the shores of the Markermeer known for their various regional delicacies. From traditional windmills and repurposed factories, the region is awash with industrial heritage – a time when smoking chimneys and spinning sails enabled the mass production of goods. Modern-day Zaandam

blends old and new, finding innovative ways to repurpose and showcase its industrial character. Perhaps the first sign you’ll see of this is when marvelling at the eye-catching façade of the Inntel Hotel Zaandam (pictured), a stack of individual Zaan houses in the traditional green colour. And then there are the lush green Twiske-Waterland and Beemster nature areas just north of Amsterdam. Dotted with tearooms, grazing cows and quaint villages, there is ample scenery to enjoy on a bike trip down the winding

Villages

Zaanse Schans is well worth a visit, but there are plenty of other stunning villages to explore. The area boasts scenic waterways, dykes and mills, such as those in Jisp and De Woude. Nearby you’ll find De Rijp, dubbed ‘Holland’s most beautiful village’.

ZAANSTREEK.NL

KOEN SMILDE

For hearty dinners and creative vegan lunches, look no further than family-run restaurant and boutique hotel Jongwijs in the stunning Westzaan region.

JONGWIJS.NL

De naturePoelboerderij cruise

With its winding channels, unique vegetation and exquisite bird-watching opportunities, the best way to experience the natural beauty of Noord-Holland is undoubtedly with a guided nature cruise. Under the direction of an experienced skipper and nature guide, the De Poelboerderij Visitor Centre organises various boat trips through the Wormer- and Jisperveld nature area – the largest peat meadow in Europe. Many tours are themed, focusing on specific flora or bird of prey species, or combined with an activity such as landscape photography or sketching.

BEZOEKERSCENTRUMPOELBOERDERIJ.NL

Fort Resort Beemster

As one of the most luxurious wellness resorts in the country, Fort Resort Beemster in the UNESCO Beemster Polder has a long list of facilities to suit every pampering need. From unique saunas and salt baths and elegant hotel rooms to wholesome food and relaxing face and body treatments, guests can enjoy top-notch gastronomy, hospitality and wellness in stunning surroundings. Although only 20 minutes from Amsterdam, you’ll feel like you’re a world away from the hustle and bustle of city life.

FORTBEEMSTER.NL

Zaans Museum

Volendam and Marken

For a fantastic trip back into Old Holland, head for Volendam, a picturesque town on the shores of the Markermeer. As the Netherlands’ most famous fishing village, there are plenty of opportunities to fill up on some fresh fish, whether it’s kibbeling – little pieces of fried fish – or herring, which is best eaten raw with onions. Sample a few fish stalls along the harbour, or take a seat at one of the many seafood restaurants. Then take the Volendam Marken Express ferry to nearby Marken, which was once an island but is now connected to the mainland by a dyke. To grasp the old island’s history and people, visit the Marker Museum, or enjoy freshly caught seafood at one of the local eateries.

LAAGHOLLAND.COM, MARKENEXPRESS.NL

Take a fascinating journey from the first windmills and green wooden houses to modern factories, and admire traditional Dutch paintings, costumes and artefacts – all at the Zaans Museum in Zaanse Schans. At the heart of the museum is the Verkade Experience, a chocolate and biscuit factory. A treat for young and old alike, watch the original machines churning away and imagine yourself in the early 20th century. Want to get involved? Design your own wrapper for a customised Verkade chocolate bar or join in the games and become a chocolate expert.

ZAANSMUSEUM.NL

How to get there

Zaandam and Zaanse Schans: Take a train from Amsterdam Central station to Zaandam (two stops further is Zaanse Schans train station) (15 minutes). Fishing villages: Take the bus from Amsterdam Noord metro station to Marken (30 minutes) and Volendam (30 minutes).

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Quaint Corners

A 700-year-old fortified town, Weesp’s protected historical centre offers forts, windmills, stately architecture, and cosy eateries along the water.

Known for its cosy cafés, charming facades and noteworthy monuments, Weesp is technically a city district of Amsterdam but still makes for a fabulous day trip. This quaint riverside town in the heart of the Vechtstreek is famed for its historic buildings (look out for the town’s oldest building, Laurens Church) and influence on the chocolate industry. One of the Netherlands’ 14 fortress towns, Weesp dates back to the 14th century and – as you’d expect – features many fortifications

and battlements. Old gates and city walls disappeared over the centuries, but the four bastions still exist. Weesp was part of the Defence Line of Amsterdam, a 135km-long fortification around Amsterdam. The Ossenmarkt and Uitermeer Forts, part of that defence line, are still there. Uitermeer is now a pavilion with good food and drinks, and offers the possibility to moor your boat. Weesp’s former town hall now houses the municipal Museum Weesp, devoted mainly to 18th-century porcelain crafts.

Overlooking the UNESCO-listed Uitermeer Fort and with a fantastic view of the passing boats along the River Vecht, you can tuck into decadent burgers and hearty mains at PorterHouse.

PORTERHOUSE.NL

De Vriendschap windmill

Wispe Brouwerij

You can’t truly get to know a city without trying the local tipple. Wispe Brouwerij is a unique brewery in a historic church, now converted into a stunning grand café. The copper kettles, high ceilings and airy interiors make for a beautiful setting to enjoy home-brewed seasonal beers, Dutch snack platters and juicy burgers. During the day, guided tours take you through the entire Wispe brew-

ing process, and you can also have a peek to see how Anker Weesp's jenever and liqueurs are distilled. Alternatively, for a special night’s sleep, you’ll find a luxury apartment called The Clock Tower in the church tower. After climbing the 155 steps to this exclusive outpost, you can admire the spectacular views from the free-standing bath.

WISPE.NL, CLOCKTOWER.NL

Museum Weesp

Museum Weesp is housed on the top floor of the monumental town hall (from 1776), one of the 100 most important monuments in the Netherlands. The collections take you on a journey through the stories of the city and its inhabitants, from the earliest Iron Age settlement to the present day. Admire the first porcelain in the Netherlands, learn how chocolate is made and discover why the Weesper jenever was a favourite of the Dutch East India Company. For anyone interested in exploring the beautiful period rooms of this neoclassical building further, a one-hour audio tour is included in the entrance fee.

MUSEUMWEESP.NL

This traditional windmill grinds ecological grains into flour using good old-fashioned wind power. Budding bakers and anyone who loves pastries, sourdough bread and gingerbread are welcome to pop into the windmill shop – which is open to the public every Saturday from 10am to 4pm.

MOLEN-DEVRIENDSCHAP.NL

De Fietsboot

Weesp is a fantastic starting point for exploring the Defence Line of Amsterdam, a 135km ring of fortifications around the city that once protected it from invaders and was added to the UNESCO World Heritage Site list in 1996. Notable bike routes (in English) take you past the most beautiful highlights, among them Pampus Fort Island, Ossenmarkt Fort, Uitermeer Fort and Muiderslot Castle. Adventurous cyclists should check out De Fietsboot (the Bike Boat), which sails along the River Vecht and lets you hop on and off and continue by bike or foot as you please.

DEFIETSBOOT.NL

How to get there

Weesp: Take the train from Amsterdam Central station to Weesp (20 minutes).

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Flowers

Find out more about day trips to the Flower region on iamsterdam. com/flowers

The Keukenhof Estate

Located on the estate of the iconic Keukenhof Gardens (open March-May), the Lisser Art Museum (LAM) is packed with international masterpieces all about food. Perfect for curious minds of all ages, the collections invite visitors to look at what they consume in an entirely new light. Right next door, Keukenhof Castle boasts an impressive history with 17th-century roots. Inside, you’ll find portraits, artefacts and period furniture. The estate now measures 240 hectares and is home to various listed buildings, an art museum, a café, a petting farm and walking paths. For details on upcoming events and exhibitions, please check the website.

LAMMUSEUM.NL

KASTEELKEUKENHOF.NL

Cruquius Museum

Fertile Grounds

The world-famous flower strip makes for an ideal day out with heritage monuments, historic gardens, recreational lakes and plenty of cycling routes.

Interspersed with charming villages, sweeping polders and heritage museums dedicated to steam power and water management, the Flower Strip offers a variety of attractions and recreational activities. Every spring, the region bursts into bloom as millions of tulips colour the landscape in rainbow stripes. But year-round, flower buffs can pay a visit to Museum De Zwarte Tulp, which examines the region’s horticultural history, the Flower Art Museum and Royal FloraHolland to get a proper grasp of the industrial scale of this bulb-growing region. Or explore numerous garden estates, such as Keukenhof Castle and the Aalsmeer Historical Gardens, home to cute tearooms and plentiful opportunities for a scenic stroll. Elsewhere, the reclaimed polder landscape is dotted with quaint villages such as Lisse and Hillegom, along with fascinating forts along the Defence Line of Amsterdam and monuments such as the Cruquius pumping station and Aalsmeer Water Tower, which tell the story of the Dutch struggle against the water.

The Cruquius Museum is a fascinating industrial monument housing the 19th-century pumping station used to drain the municipality of Haarlemmermeer centuries ago. Learn about the Dutch struggle against water, marvel at an eyeopening model of how the Netherlands would look without dykes, and experience a live steam engine demonstration.

How to get there

Keukenhof Estate: Take bus 852 from Amsterdam

RAI station to bus stop Keukenhof (35 minutes).

Royal FloraHolland: Take bus 357 from Amsterdam

Elandsgracht bus station to bus stop FloraHolland (55 minutes). Cruquius: : Take the train from Amsterdam Central to Haarlem. Transfer to bus 340 and get off at bus stop Cruquius

Ring-vaartbrug (45 minutes).

Escape to lakeside Papa’s Beach House in the Haarlemmermeerse forest for a cosy meal by the fireplace. PAPASHOUSES.COM

HAARLEMMERMEERMUSEUM.NL

© BIBI

VETH

Located in a tranquil lakeside setting and boasting two Michelin stars, De Bokkedoorns prepares dishes with seasonal ingredients, care and imagination.

ZEEWEG 53, BOKKEDOORNS.NL

Beaches

Beeckestijn Christmas Fair

Head over to the historic Beeckestijn Country Estate in Velsen-Zuid for this unmissable Christmas and lifestyle fair full of festive stalls, food trucks serving winter delicacies, inspiring workshops and live music by big bands or choirs. Browse the 150 stalls selling everything from handmade soap and local sausages to festive decorations, jewellery and antiques before enjoying a warming glühwein or hot chocolate. Don’t forget to admire the local sheep and alpacas before picking up your exceptionally soft pair of handwoven socks for those cosy winter nights. 16-19 NOVEMBER, CASTLECHRISTMASFAIR.NL

Landscape of Dunes

try out water sports, or simply relax along one of the most unspoilt coastlines in Northern Europe.

Explore breathtaking

Whether you’re looking for adventure, adrenaline activities, a windswept walk in the dunes or impressive wildlife, you’ll fi nd it all on the Dutch coast. The beaches are endless at Bloemendaal and Zandvoort (pictured), where you can enjoy long walks and warm yourself with a hot chocolate at one of the many beach clubs. Alternatively, IJmuiden is characterised by its rugged beauty and industrial port – while the North Sea wind makes this spot a haven for wind and watersports fans. Hidden WWII bunkers along the sand and impressive historical sites such as Forteiland IJmuiden form part of the UNESCO-listed Defence Line of Amsterdam. Behind the beaches, you’ll fi nd bustling market towns such as Heemskerk, and the Dutch Dunes with ample opportunities for cycling, hiking and wildlife spotting – particularly in the Zuid-Kennemerland National Park and Noordhollands Duinreservaat (North Holland Dune Reserve).

New Year’s Swim

If you’re feeling the effects of the New Year’s Eve celebrations, there might be no better cure than plunging into the freezing waters of Zandvoort aan Zee on New Year’s Day. Even those who prefer to stay on dry land can join in the fun and enjoy a hot cup of erwten (pea) soup. This tradition is in its 60th year and attracts brave swimmers from around the Netherlands. Registration on the website is free and can be done in advance or on the day itself.

1 JANUARY, NIEUWJAARSDUIKZANDVOORT.NL

How to get there

Zandvoort: Take the train from Amsterdam

Central station to Zandvoort aan Zee (30 minutes). IJmuiden: Take bus 382 from Amsterdam Sloterdijk to Badweg (45 minutes). Beeckestijn: Take the train from Amsterdam Central station to Beverwijk. Transfer to bus 74 and get off at bus stop Velsen-Zuid (50 minutes).

New Land

Fresh Horizons

Entirely reclaimed from the sea, the Netherlands’ youngest province is home to innovative architecture and sprawling nature reserves shaped by human hands.

Lying four metres below sea level, Flevoland – the result of a large-scale land reclamation project in the 1930s – is a province associated with cutting-edge architecture and a sustainable vision. Lelystad and Almere (pictured) are fast-growing urban centres teeming with mindblowing urban art and cultural hotspots – such as the Kunstlinie and Agora theatres These modern polder cities blend forward-thinking design with futuristic urban planning, all the while embracing the water and nature right on their doorstep. Elsewhere, the region’s watery past is still apparent in its nautical history and impressive natural landscapes. Unique man-made nature reserves such as Nieuw Land National Park and Marker Wadden provide vast swathes of protected marshlands for migrating birds and ample opportunity for recreation, cycling and wildlife tours. New Land proves that human hands can shape even the wildest natural environments. Meanwhile, the not-to-bemissed Land Art throughout the region makes for an ideal day trip.

Museum Schokland

The first place in the Netherlands to be named a UNESCO World Heritage Site, Schokland is truly unique. Once an island in the Zuiderzee, which was drained to reclaim the Flevoland province, it is now surrounded by land. Museum Schokland is an archaeological monument which delves into the history of the area. The many treasures found in the area’s soil reveal the fascinating stories of the former island inhabitants who lived here for centuries.

SCHOKLAND.NL

Find out more about day trips to New Land on iamsterdam.com/ newland

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Falling between a water lodge and a cosy hotel, Hajé’s De Aalscholver restaurant is the ideal spot to take in views of the Oostvaardersplassen.

HAJE.NU

Aviodrome

For those who have always dreamt of becoming a pilot, the flight simulator at the Aviodrome, an aviation museum in Lelystad, is a must-do. You can also tour a real Boeing 757 jumbo jet (yes, even the cockpit!) and get behind the controls of an F-104 Starfighter simulator for some real-life pilot training. Then, wander through the museum to admire some of its most treasured artefacts, such as historic pilot and flight attendant uniforms, handbooks and more.

AVIODROME.NL

Batavialand

Nieuw Land National Park

The rugged expanse of Nieuw Land National Park is a truly unique landscape. One of the main areas to explore is the Oostvaardersplassen, where square kilometres of protected marshlands and fields serve as a bird migration area. As such, it’s a fantastic spot for a hike or a day of bird-watching. Its ‘locals’ include birds and wild varieties of deer, cattle, foxes, hares and Konik ponies. Take a hike or bike ride to spot these wild animals on your own, or take advantage of the many activities offered by the reserve, such as full moon walks, sea-eagle spotting tours and ‘golden hour’ safaris. Anyone looking for a bite for lunch and refreshments with an exceptional view of the surrounding landscape can settle down on the panoramic terrace of Paviljoen de Oostvaarders

NATIONAALPARKNIEUWLAND.NL, PAVILJOENDEOOSTVAARDERS.NL

This shipyard shows how the Dutch have mastered shipbuilding over the centuries, constructing robust ships capable of traversing Dutch and international waters. Climb aboard the famous reconstruction of the VOC ship, the Batavia, and find out how these powerful 17th-century trade vessels were constructed. In the museum, you’ll learn stories about the life of a Dutchman, forever living on the boundary between water and land. A limitation that has defined the nation.

BATAVIALAND.NL

How to get there

Almere: Take a train from Amsterdam Central station to Almere Centrum (20 minutes).

Batavialand: Batavia Stad Shopping Shuttle Bus departs daily from Amsterdam River Cruise Port (De Ruijterkade 153), free with your City Card.

Nieuw Land National Park: Take the train to Almere Oostvaarders. From there, it’s a 20-minute walk to the visitor centre (60 minutes).

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ARNO HOOGWERF

© WILLEM VOS

Need to Know

Where to get your information, how to get around and other useful information to make sure your trip to Amsterdam runs smoothly.

I amsterdam

In Case of Emergency

If you are a victim of crime, report it to the police (politie.nl). In emergency situations or to report a crime in progress, call 112. For non-emergency situations requiring police assistance or to make an appointment to report a crime in person, call 0900 8844 (if using a mobile phone with an international SIM card, dial +31 343 578 844). For medical emergencies, including telephone consultations and consultations on location, contact your hotel reception or call the tourist doctor on +31 20 427 5011.

With a hand-picked selection of quality products from iconic Amsterdam brands, as well as daily tips and advice on the best events and must-see attractions in the city, the I amsterdam Store at Amsterdam Central station is your key to unlocking the very best that Amsterdam has to offer. Plus, this is your go-to stop for information on how to get around.

I AMSTERDAM STORE, CENTRAL STATION, IJ-SIDE. CHECK IAMSTERDAM.COM FOR UP-TO-DATE OPENING HOURS

GETTING AROUND: Amsterdam is well-equipped with a public transport network of trains, trams, buses and the metro. You can buy a ticket from ticket offices at the main stations; you can also check in and out with your credit or debit card, or with your smartphone. To plan your journeys once in Amsterdam, visit 9292.nl/en or Google Maps for up-to-the-minute information. Alternatively, hire a bike from one of the many bicycle rental shops, but be warned that using your mobile phone while cycling is illegal.

Amsterdam & TravelRegionTicket

Travel Ticket

Discover Amsterdam and the surrounding area with the Amsterdam & Region Travel Ticket – a special public transport card valid on trains, metros, trams and buses operated by NS, GVB, Connexxion and EBS. The Amsterdam & Region Travel Ticket is available for one, two or three calendar days, and is valid on any of the routes listed in the public transport guide to the Amsterdam Area. Tickets can be purchased at the I amsterdam Store, as well as ticket counters of the participating public transport companies. Read all about the area from page 78 onwards.

Public Holidays

Schools, city councils, post offices and banks are closed for the whole day on official public holidays in the Netherlands.

• 5 December: Sinterklaas is not an official public holiday, but some government offices close

• 25 December: Christmas Day is an official public holiday

• 26 December: Boxing / St Stephen’s Day is an official public holiday

• 1 January: New Year’s Day is an official public holiday

I amsterdam City Card

The I amsterdam City Card o ers you a unique way to explore Amsterdam. The City Card gives access to all major highlights and more than 70 museums, city-wide public transport, a canal cruise and bicycle rental. Buy it online at iamsterdam.com/citycard or get more info at the I amsterdam Store at Central station.

Before You Leave

TEXT AND PHOTOS: LISA VAN ZELM

‘Strolling through the city, without any noise pollution or traffic, was our favourite thing. We loved all the bakeries around the city centre, especially the bread from Gebroeders Niemeijer on Haarlemmerdijk. So good!’

Ajay (47) and Jaya (49), both doctors, and their son Aakash (10), US

‘We walked around Museumplein and visited some amazing cultural spots, our favourites being Rembrandthuis and the Moco Museum. But the highlight of our trip was the Coldplay concert in the Johan Cruijff ArenA.’ Diana (15) and Natalia (46), Romania

‘We loved the 9 Straatjes area, exploring the little food shops everywhere. Being outside the city centre, Oosterpark in the east showed us how Amsterdam locals use the green areas to relax.’ Cousins Akash (19), medical student, Canada, and Khushi (19), student, US

‘We loved the diversity in the museums of Amsterdam. Although we enjoyed the many collections in the Rijksmuseum, the National Maritime Museum was our favourite because of the historical building and its location next to the River IJ.’

Conor (32), UX engineer, and Hannah (31), illustrator and teacher, UK

‘Amsterdam seen from the water is really a unique experience. I loved the canal tour the most, enjoying the views of the characteristic Amsterdam facades.’

Selani (28), biochemical engineer, Australia

editor-in-chief Bart van Oosterhout art director & basic design Yke Bartels, Saskia Franken designer Martijn Blokland deputy editor Karin Thybaut proofreader Julia Gorodecky contributors Barbara van den Berg, Lauren Comiteau, Karin Engelbrecht, Matt Farquharson, Lesia Joukova, Callum McLean, Verity Seward, Monique Wijbrands, Lisa van Zelm advertising partner@iamsterdam.com or +31 20 702 61 80 want to become a distributor? partner@iamsterdam.com for individual subscriptions visit aboland.com didn’t receive your copy? klantenservice@aboland.nl publisher amsterdam&partners print Flyerman drukwerk ISSN 2589-6717

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