I amsterdam City Guide spring summer 2024

06 Green in the City

WELCOME

Sustainable projects, small initiatives and nature itself help Amsterdam’s green grow bigger and better. This is your guide to green Amsterdam.

13 Your Trip

MAKE THE MOST OF YOUR STAY

Whether you’re in Amsterdam for 12 hours or a weekend, make the most of every hour with our itineraries.

21 Eat & Drink

WHERE TO INDULGE IN AMSTERDAM

The best and sustainable spots to eat your greens, rooftops with a view (and good food), and the finest fine- and casual dining places.

33 What’s On

WHAT TO SEE AND WHERE TO GO

From museums to open-air festivals, there’s always something to do in Amsterdam. Plus: drag queen Envy Peru on being queer and proud of it.

53 City Guide

EXPLORE AMSTERDAM’S NEIGHBOURHOODS

There’s a new discovery around every corner, from the best hangouts in the different neighbourhoods to cycling in Noord’s Waterland.

77 Day Trips

DISCOVER THE AMSTERDAM AREA

Explore beyond the city borders of Amsterdam and discover lush nature, magnificant castles and unmissable experiences.

It may not be the first thing that comes to mind when you think of Amsterdam, but we are pretty green here. In most rankings of Western cities, Amsterdam can be found somewhere in the top ten. This placement is not so much due to the number of parks –which are modestly distributed in the centre but abundant in the outskirts – but mainly to the obsession of city planners with one specific type of tree: the elm. Amsterdam has the most extensive collection of elm trees in the world. In the city centre alone, there are ‘at least’ 75,000. You can find elms everywhere, along almost the entire canal belt - except for the Keizersgracht section between the Amstel River and Leidsegracht (where you’ll find lime trees). The elms have not always been there. Originally, the canals were a kind of industrial area, and the streets along them were busy being used as commercial quays. Lime trees were not planted until the 19th century and were later replaced by the stronger elm. Among the numerous varieties there is one Amsterdam-elm, grown by the city’s own nursery that used to be in Park Frankendael in Oost, in a greenhouse that is now Michelin-starred restaurant De Kas, which still grows its own food. Besides the trees and the parks, however, the city of Amsterdam invests a lot in green spaces, from city gardens, greeneries, and farms to ‘gablegarden days’ whereby residents are assisted in creating little gardens in front of their houses. Read all about it in our cover feature on page 6, and head for the nearest park.

Bart van Oosterhout Editor-in-Chief, I amsterdam City Guide

© KAAN SENSOY

Up Front

BY: LAUREN COMITEAU

Urban (re)treats

Growing Green

Amsterdam is one of the greener metropolises in Europe. Sustainable projects, small initiatives and nature itself help the city’s green grow bigger and better. This is your guide to green Amsterdam.

While it’s well known that Amsterdam boasts more bikes than people, less obvious is that the greater Amsterdam Area has more trees than residents – one million trees for some 900,000 residents. ‘Green is important for a liveable city, which means a healthy city,’ says spatial data scientist and city researcher Nico de Graaff. ‘A balanced biodiversity is good for your health, your well-being, the climate, water problems and the different types of animals in the city who also live here.’ Amsterdam is a green city and ventures in ever greener pastures: from vertical gardens to eel parks, vineyards to botanical gardens, our city is planting its roots as an eco-friendly city of the future.

Green monitoring

Besides trees, De Graaff says, there’s also the city’s green canopy (or

coverage), its habitats, parks and biodiversity that measure how green Amsterdam is. He worked on the recently released Green Monitor, mapping Amsterdam’s green areas. The report found that 61% of Amsterdam’s public outdoor space is green. And while there’s been a slight reduction (1.9%) in overall green space over the past five years – largely due to housing construction on the outskirts of the city –in the more central locations, green is actually growing. ‘In the centre, there’s not much area to transform space, because there’s lots of water and it’s built-up,’ says De Graaff. ‘But we’ve made small places greener, replacing stones near paths with plants, herbs and trees, and improving embankments with green plants. There are also initiatives for vertical gardens, while

Nico de Graaff

Because of modern farming practices, biodiversity in cities is far bigger now than in the countryside

Up Front

The Urban Agriculture tour by Tours that Matter teaches you all about the importance of nature, community and sustainable and productive ways of gardening TOURSTHATMATTER.COM/PRIVATE-TOURSPECIALS/URBAN-AGRICULTURE

Open Tuinen Dagen

For one weekend only, the gardens behind the historical canal houses are open to the public during Open Garden Days. This is your chance to see the beautifully landscaped grounds that are usually hidden from sight.

14-16 JUNE, OPENTUINENDAGEN.NL

people in the centre have lots of green in their private gardens.’

It’s all part of the city’s Green Vision 20202050, which also includes green routes by which every resident should only be a 10-minute walk from a park, making sports parks and school gardens more accessible to the public, creating space for wilderness and urban agriculture on the city’s outskirts, and building new urban forests and parks.

The past

This green focus hasn’t always been the case. Urban and regional planner Zef Hemel says a century ago, there were hardly any green spaces in Amsterdam, especially when compared to the greenery of contemporaneous Paris and London. ‘Amsterdam was a densely built city on polders,’ he says. But Dutch architect and designer Hendrik Petrus Berlage developed a plan for more parks in an effort to keep the wealthy in the city. Vondelpark, Oosterpark and Sarphatipark were all late 19th-centu-

De Ceuvel

Excellent coffee and a crash course in sustainability? The team behind Café De Ceuvel hopes to inspire everyone around them to go green. This community was built by a bunch of office-boating innovators as a cleantech experiment, over what once was a polluted harbour. Besides the excellent food and drinks, you’ll find several showcases of cleantech that the compound uses itself including a fascinating aquaponics greenhouse, heat exchangers, composters and treatment facilities for kitchen and toilet waste. KORTE PAPAVERWEG 4, CAFEDECEUVEL.NL

Hortus Botanicus

© BARBARA VAN AMELSFOORT

Zef Hemel

© PETER KOOIJMAN

Clean up parks, help out at a city farm or cook with food waste: join Serve the City as volunteer for a day and return home with a smile on your face.

STCAMSTERDAM.NL/VOLUNTEERING/GREEN/

Must-visit initiatives

From city vineyards to circular farms, Amsterdam is home to all sorts of urban farming and sustainable initiatives.

NOORDOOGST

In the heart of Noord, this organic self-harvest garden is home to 70+ vegetables, berries, and flowers in every colour. Beyond providing fresh produce to locals, the garden serves as a hub for workshops and events nestled within its organic food forest.

METEORENWEG 272, NOORDOOGST.ORG

MEDIAMATIC

At Mediamatic, urban farming has a culinary twist courtesy of innovative

experiments where visitors are treated to lectures, hands-on workshops, and nutritious meals courtesy of Mediamatic Eten.

DIJKSGRACHT 6, MEDIAMATIC.NET

WIJN VAN BRET

DE HERKOMST

A circular pig farm focused on preventing food waste, De Herkomst is where you can purchase locally farmed meat while also learning more about food production. The Dutch Land Pigs are fed with GFT waste from local farms, addressing the issue of unused food.

OSDORPERWEG 787, DEHERKOMST.NL

PLUK! GROENTEN VAN WEST

Pluk! is the spot to pick your fresh vegetables. Every week from early May until December, you can harvest your own legumes, herbs, and flowers. In addition, the farm organises a yearly Late Summer Fest, a cosy get-together with workshops, films, and activities.

TOM SCHEURSWEG 48

ry creations. Green urban planning continued following WWII, with the expansion of new ‘garden cities’ with affordable housing on the city’s periphery, such as Slotermeer, Slotervaart, Geuzenveld and Osdorp. And then there are the city’s more recent plans, with whole neighbourhoods projected to be car-free by 2026. In De Pijp’s Frans Halsbuurt, 600 parking spots have already been replaced with green spaces, some of which will collect rainwater.

Green brings on green

Green urban initiatives, whether from the city council or from locals, are also sprouting like wildflowers after rain. Urban farms promote sustainability and help to shorten the food chain. Mediamatic, near Central station, combines urban agriculture,

Bees do better in a city environment – especially in Amsterdam, where there are many gardens and balcony flowers

Nestled near Sloterdijk station, this urban vineyard offers courses and tastings, inviting wine enthusiasts to explore the art of crafting bespoke organic blends. You can delve into hands-on experiences, learning the intricacies of winemaking from grape to bottle.

KASTRUPSTRAAT 11, WIJNVANBRET.NL

PLUKCSA.NL

STADSBOERDERIJ OSDORP

A green experiment in the middle of residential Osdorp, this urban farm puts nature, good food and communitybuilding first. The farm is a meeting place for neighbours, nature lovers and city gardeners alike. Local chefs provide lunches, dinners and cooking workshops inspired by the garden.

BOTTESKERKSINGEL 30B

STADSBOERDERIJOSDORP.NL

workshops and a café serving locally sourced food and homegrown lettuce and herbs, while NoordOogst in the north is an organic self-harvest garden with more than 70 varieties of vegetables, berries and flowers. Also in the north is De Ceuvel, the city’s first circular office park. It owes its current existence to a 10-year lease from the city, as does Wijn van Bret, an urban vineyard in Sloterdijk. ‘It’s very important to have crops in the city, even if not in the centre,’ says Yvonne Modderman, co-founder of Wijn van Bret. ‘By growing local, there’s less CO2 impact because there’s less transport. People can visit and be part of the community, tending the vines and going home with the harvest.’

Amsterdam beekeepers Petra Freriks and Philippe Bedier de Prairie have 12 beehives placed at local businesses throughout the city, including at the Hyatt Regency. Perhaps counterintuitively, Petra says bees

Up Front

do better in a city environment – ‘especially in Amsterdam, where there are so many gardens and balcony flowers’ – than in the countryside, where there may be more green but not the flowery food bees need to thrive. And it’s the same for birds and other animals. ‘Because of modern farming practices, biodiversity in cities is far bigger now than in the countryside,’ adds Hemel. Amsterdam’s nature, says landscape architect, designer of the new lion enclosure at Artis zoo and self-declared ‘nature optimist’ Thijs de Zeeuw, may just be the country’s wildest: ‘Nature, ever the opportunist, finds gaps and niches in our built-up world. They say Amsterdam has almost one million residents, but I say there are billions and billions of other inhabitants.’

Nature-inclusive future

City nature also helps with the threats posed by climate change and flood risks in a below-sea level nation. ‘Trees lower

Amsterdamse Bos + Nieuwe Meer

Just on the outskirts of the city centre, the lush woodlands of the Amsterdam Forest were hand-planted in the 20th century to offer a green escape for residents. Today, the area has its own visitor centre, a campsite, an open-air theatre (Amsterdamse Bostheater), playgrounds, a goat farm, a running track and places you can rent canoes or bicycles. There are plenty of paths perfect for cycling, dog-walking and jogging. Meanwhile, the lake next door, Nieuwe Meer, is a popular place for swimming and watersports. This stretch of water is also an important habitat for waterbirds, including reed warblers and marsh harriers.

AMSTERDAMSEBOS.NL

There are farm-totable and green eateries aplenty in Amsterdam. Turn to page 22 for our top tips.

the temperature and provide shade,’ city researcher De Graaff says. ‘More green in the streets and on our rooftops reduces problems by absorbing excess water.’

There’s no doubt that Amsterdam’s green heart has a strong beat, although there’s always more to be done. De Zeeuw points to the city’s water ecology. ‘We don’t need to go everywhere by boat,’ he says. ‘We can stimulate nature by closing some canals.’ Ever the optimist, he says the COVID-19 pandemic, when human activity was scaled back, showed that change is possible. ‘Animals came back. The water quality returned. There were water lilies in the city centre! The effect didn’t last, but it showed that if we alter our ways, change can take place quickly.’ De Graaff says how eco-friendly a city is has less to do with its green ranking and more to do with its prospects. ‘It’s important to look at potential: How green can the city be? How we do it is different from how much we have done. And Amsterdam is doing it.’

Oost Indisch Groen

During the Oost Indisch Groen (East Indian Green) Walk & Talks, you will learn everything about communal gardens, urban agriculture and the limitless potential of green cities. Continue to Flevopark – both a city park and nature reserve, featuring playgrounds, an outdoor swimming pool, tennis courts, barbecue areas and various routes popular with runners. It’s also where you’ll find the Joodse Begraafplaats Zeeburg, a Jewish cemetery that is now heritage-listed.

KRAMATWEG 51, OOSTINDISCHGROEN.NL

© MARIE CHARLOTTE PEZÉ

Thijs de Zeeuw

During Plant FWD Week restaurants will up their plant-based game and incorporate more vegan on their menus. From easy eateries to fine dining, this is your chance to go vegan – even if it’s just for a week.

20-27 APRIL, PLANTFWD.COM

Fruittuin van West

This professional organic farm spans 16 hectares, with four-and-half of that dedicated to apples, pears and cherries. As well as the farm, the greenhouses and barns, there’s a huge orchard and fruit garden, raspberry and berry bushes. The fruit is weighed and paid for after picking. Prices vary per type of fruit, which can also be found in advance on the website. Once your bag is full, you can settle down for a coffee in the Garden Café.

TOM SCHREURSWEG 48, FRUITTUINVANWEST.NL

Anna’s Tuin & Ruigte

Anna’s Tuin & Ruigte permaculture project on the outskirts of Amsterdam is filled with wildlife, a communal vegetable garden and a forest garden. This independent non-profit foundation is a natural meeting place where you can become acquainted with polder nature, sustainable urban agriculture and permaculture. Walk around or join a workshop, and don’t miss out on the pizza-activities: top your pizza with herbs and veggies and share them with others.

SCIENCE PARK 904, ANNASTUINENRUIGTE.NL

Find more sustainable and inspirational inititatives at iamsterdam.com/ renew-your-view

Best parks

Amsterdam’s parks are beautiful green places to hang out, each with their own charm and history.

Beatrixpark

Originally designed by architect Jakoba Mulder, Beatrixpark is nestled behind RAI in Zuid and was redesigned after WWII. Traces of the original park can still be found in the oldest part, which was influenced by English landscape design.

Park Frankendael

Built at the end of the 17th century, Park Frankendael in Watergraafsmeer is Amsterdam’s only remaining country estate. Enjoy various places to unwind beside the allotments, ornamental gardens, an amphibian pond and a nature playground.

Gaasperpark

Located on the shores of the Gaasperplas lake, this park in the city’s Zuidoost district is a lush green area with many attractions. Easily reached by Metro, the park is home to playgrounds, water slides and places to grab a bite.

Nelson Mandelapark

Completely redesigned between 2009 and 2011, this civic park features sports areas, kids’ playgrounds and a small forest featuring the national trees of residents who live in the area.

Noorderpark

This vibrant green oasis in the heart of Noord boasts four pavilions that host an entertaining line-up of concerts and shows throughout the year.

Rembrandtpark

In the city’s west, Rembrandtpark is a quiet spot where you’ll find Amsterdam’s oldest petting zoo, De Uylenburg. Ponds, playgrounds and a crisscross of walking and bike paths make this park a great place to unwind or cycle through.

Sloterpark

One of the largest parks in Amsterdam, Sloterpark offers something for everyone, including a petting zoo, frisbee courses and endless green space for walking, jogging and relaxing on the banks of Sloterplas lake.

© AMIE GALBRAITH

For tickets visit: madurodam.nl

Visit the interactive theme park at The Hague’s beachfront. A fun-filled journey through our iconic streets and architecture, with epic historic tales told through state-of-the-art attractions.

50 minutes from Amsterdam

Half a day’s worth of things to see and do

Great combination with a visit to The Hague beach boulevard

New attractions to experience Holland’s most legendary stories

Your Trip

How to spend your time in 12, 24 or 48 hours

BY: LESIA JOUKOVA

14 Twelve Hours

15 Twenty-four Hours

16 Forty-eight Hours

Discover a secret church

The unique Ons’ Lieve Heer op Solder (Our Lord in the Attic) museum invites you inside a seemingly ordinary canal house that conceals a secret church built in its 17th-century attic – when practicing Catholicism publicly was prosecuted. Undertake an illuminating journey through this historical monument, from the basement to the rafters.

DURATION: 1.5 HOURS

©

REBEKKA MELL

Set foot

Your Trip

OUDEKERKSPLEIN

23,

OUDEKERK.NL

Whether it’s a whirlwind trip or a long luxurious stay, make the most of every hour in Amsterdam with our guide to what to see and do.

How to Spend Your Time in…

Step into history at Museum Van Loon

Curious about the lives of the former inhabitants of Amsterdam’s most glamorous canal houses? Step into the historic Museum Van Loon that once belonged to one of the co-founders of the Dutch East India Company. In addition to the spectacular interiors and art collections, the garden and coach house are also well worth a visit.

DURATION: 1.5 HOURS

Explore Dutch treats & the Jordaan with a DIY foodie tour

food stops with their own must-eat

sure

Start the day right with a self-paced foodie tour through the Jordaan, one of Amsterdam’s most charming neighbourhoods. The tour includes seven local food stops with their own must-eat dishes, including a classic Dutch apple pie and a cheese tasting. Be sure to reserve your time slot in advance at whoisamsterdam.com.

DURATION: 2 HOURS, VALID BETWEEN

TUESDAY TO SATURDAY, 11:30AM-2:30PM

Sail the waters of Amsterdam

Hop aboard a boat and shift your perspective to the water. Discover the history behind Amsterdam’s iconic canal network with its slender and tilted canal houses that line the Herengracht, the red-shuttered warehouses once laden with hops and spices, and the opulent merchant houses that boasted their wealth through their broad facades.

DURATION: 1 HOUR

12 hours

Catch a Dutch National Opera & Ballet show

Embrace spontaneity with a 25% discount on Dutch National Opera & Ballet tickets purchased on the day of the performance with the City Card. This season, the performances include Puccini’s Il Trittico, Beethoven’s Fidelio and Stravinsky Fairy Tales (comprising The Ice Maiden and the European premiere of The Fairy ’s Kiss).

DURATION: 3 HOURS

in the Oude Kerk –Amsterdam’s oldest building –for a mesmerising combination of contemporary art and ancient heritage.

©

PETER KOOIJMAN

24 hours

Explore the city by bike

Take to the streets with a free 24-hour bicycle rental included with the I amsterdam City Card. Cycle around the canal belt, getting a feel of its cosy cobblestone streets and lively atmosphere, before veering o to Westerpark or Museumplein for a slice of local life.

Get your I amsterdam City Card for free entry to over 70 museums and attractions, including great discounts and special offers.

DURATION: 1 HOUR

Get your culture fi x at Museumplein

Get your ll of art and culture at Museumplein, where the city’s best institutions await. Opposite the monumental Rijksmuseum, containing works by Rembrandt and Vermeer, you’ll nd the Van Gogh Museum, Stedelijk Museum, and Moco Museum, which pursues the accessibility of art.

DURATION: 4 HOURS

Dive into the world of spirits at House of Bols

Journey through the ‘World of Cocktails’ at House of Bols – a Dutch spirits and genever maker of 42 Bols liqueurs – by exploring the art of liqueurmaking before tasting the nal product at the cocktail station at the end of the tour.

DURATION: 1 HOUR

See larger-than-life art at Fabrique des Lumières

Situated inside a former gasworks building in the heart of the Westerpark, Fabrique des Lumières combines visually stunning audiovisual shows with evocative art by the masters we know and love. Get a 25% discount on tickets to this immersive experience with the I amsterdam City Card.

DURATION: 1 HOUR

Your Trip

16 | MAKE THE MOST OF YOUR TIME

The charming Geelvinck Pianola Museum features a fascinating collection of self-playing pianos and music rolls with daily demonstrations and concerts.

WESTERSTRAAT 106, GEELVINCK.NL

Learn about old Dutch traditions at Zaans Museum

Take a 20-minute train ride and visit Zaanse Schans, where the air smells of cocoa and windmills line the landscape. The Zaans Museum highlights the region’s industry and Dutch culture. Taste locally made Verkade chocolate and try your hand at the assembly line at the factory.

DURATION: 1 HOUR

48 hours

See the windmills at Zaanse Schans

A few steps from the Zaans Museum is the Zaanse Schans Unesco-protected village, lled with those windmills the Netherlands are famous for, housing the workshops of local artisans – from cheese farms to wooden clog-makers and handicrafts. Tour inside the working windmills, discover what goes into barrelmaking or taste test liqueurs at the De Tweekoppige Phoenix distillery. Hungry? Have a snack or lunch at D’Swarte Walvis, preferably at the waterfacing terrace.

DURATION: 3 HOURS

Enjoy music at Bimhuis

Get ready for a night of contemporary jazz at Bimhuis with a special I amsterdam City Card 25% discount on tickets purchased on the day of the performance.

DURATION: 1.5 HOURS

Fly over the Netherlands at This is Holland

Take the free ferry across the River IJ from Amsterdam Central station for the perfect introduction to the Netherlands at This is Holland. Combining the history of the lowlands with a sensory 4D ight experience across the country, here’s your chance to ll up your travel bucket list!

DURATION: 1 HOUR

© MIKE BINK

© PAUL VAN RIEL

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AMSTER DAM GIF TS

Shop products by local makers

Discover Amsterdam-based brands, get the inside scoop on what’s happening around town and buy museum tickets at the I amsterdam Store. Popular with locals and visitors alike, it captures a little of what makes the city such a beautiful and creative place.

Amsterdam Centraal Station, IJ-side www.iamsterdam.com/store

Lauren Comiteau is a journalist and writer who has covered the Netherlands for TIME Magazine, CBS Radio and others since 1996. She lives in Amsterdam with her two daughters and Jack Russell.

IDam Life

The Crompouce Craze

O, the viral food hype. No culture seems to be immune – the Dutch included.

n my native New York, there was the du n – a doughnut-mu n concoction. Then there was the cronut. Croissant + doughnut = cronut. But last year in the Netherlands, the crompouce was all the rage. To understand this culinary creation, you must first be introduced to the tompouce, an iconic Dutch dessert made popular by the iconic Dutch Hema retail chain, which has been baking them since 1932 and now sells some 14 million a year.

Rectangular in form, the tompouce features two layers of pastry encasing a thick layer of crème, topped with a flamingo pink, sugary glaze. Similar to what the French call a mille-feuille, the Americans a Napoleon, and the Brits a cream slice, the tompouce was first introduced by an Amsterdam pastry chef in the mid-1800s and named after the 19th-century Dutch actor known as Admiraal Tom Pouce. Two centuries later, it’s thought another Dutch baker combined the tompouce with a croissant and the crompouce was born.

It became a TikTok sensation, gracing the displays of bakeries across the country and even making it to the shelves of national supermarkets, whose packets of yellow cream and ruby chocolate have messily made it into the kitchens of countless home bakers trying to replicate the fad. Such as my daughter. Pink glazing and custard drippings throughout the kitchen aside, my daughter’s crompouce was a success: light in the pastry and creamy in the custard.

But the national, Frankenstein-esque concoctions the crompouce spawned left a bad taste in many a mouth, mine included. There was the kibbelpouce, where the tompouce’s traditional custard filling and frosting were paired with another iconic Dutch dish, kibbeling, or battered fried fish. There’s been a sushipouce, a herringpouce, a hamburgerpouce and, according to my daughter, a bagelpouce. You get the idea – throw the name of any cuisine staple in front of pouce (the French word for

thumb), mix in some crème and top with pink frosting, and you may just have the next viral pouce in your hands.

Despite the crompouce frenzy, there is little variation tolerated in the original tompouce (Hema lists its measurement as a strict 4x10cm). It should always be pink, with an exception made on King’s Day or a big national football match, when tompoucen are cloaked in orange, the national hue. For those worried that the Dutch populace has gone crompouce crazy, rest assured: the creator of the kibbelpouce, at least, confessed in an interview that it was made in jest, as a PR stunt. ‘Actually, selling this would go against our principles,’ he said.

That’s welcome news, as is that the worst of this trend seems to be behind us. I wouldn’t be surprised, though, to see crompouce ice cream on sale soon – a palatable twist on another favourite food in the Netherlands, whose people are said to be the biggest consumers per capita of the icy confection.

Eat & Drink

Where to indulge in Amsterdam

BY: KARIN ENGELBRECHT

22 Going Green

25 Rooftop Resto-bars

27 Dining Out: Oaxaca

28 Night on the Town

30 New Fusion

31 Fine Dining: Showw

The Seafood Bar

This popular pescatarian port of call, with a reputation for lavish sustainable seafood platters and flawless fish and chips, recently dropped anchor between Amsterdam Central station and the Dam. Situated in the Beurs van Berlage, one of the Netherlands’ top 100 national monuments, the stunning interior puts all the focus on the original Art Nouveau features, beautiful brickwork, vaulted ceilings – and artfully displayed seafood. Over 50 metres of windows bring in the light and a street terrace offers some of the best people-watching real estate in town.

Going Green

Get your five-a-day the tasty way with the best-selling miso bowl at Oliver Green.

VARIOUS LOCATIONS

OLIVERGREEN.NL

Het Rijk van de Keizer

This stunning restaurant within Tuinen van West serves lavish lunches and refreshments from a concealed courtyard that ’s straight out of a fairytale. On the menu you’ll find dishes with a focus on vegetables and fresh seasonal products.

JORIS VAN DEN BERGHWEG 109

HETRIJKVANDEKEIZER.NL

Bursting with style, this hand-painted earthenware tomato tureen by Bordallo Pinheiro (€120 at de Bijenkorf) adds a summery touch to any table.

DAM 1, DEBIJENKORF.NL

Bolenius

The seasonal food at this pioneering veg-led (Green) Michelin-starred ‘flagship of Dutch cuisine’ can’t come any fresher: everything is sustainable, locally sourced or

It’s Easy Being Green

Too hot to bother? Here’s how to cater to all your summer eating inclinations when all you crave is something fresh and leafy.

As the temperatures go up, our inclination to eat hot and heavy foods tends to go down. Instead, we want all things refreshing and good. While the mad dash of vegan hotspot openings, juice bars and new poke bowl places seems to have abated, and the fierce reign of avo-on-toast and green smoothies has made way for a wider interpretation of ‘health food’, Amsterdam is still a great place to eat your greens. At the perennially-booked Vuurtoreneiland, you can sup on locally sourced seasonal fine dining in a glass greenhouse that pops up in the warmer months on a rugged little island in the IJmeer. Or go straight to the source yourself, by picking strawberries, cherries, blackcurrants and apples fresh from the bush at Fruittuin van West, a 30-minute cycle from Amsterdam Central station. Whatever ‘eating green’ means to you – from simply feasting in leafy environs to farm-to-table or veg-led plates, salads and Insta-famous avocado bowls – we’ve got you covered.

harvested from a garden hidden between the Zuidas skyscrapers.

GEORGE GERSHWINLAAN 30

BOLENIUS-RESTAURANT.NL

Lebkov & Sons

Grab housemade granola, courgette soup, pesto pasta salad, houmous sandwiches and other

breakfast and lunch staples as well as good coffee, freshly pressed juices and matcha lattes at one of this café chain’s sleek canteen-like outposts

VARIOUS LOCATIONS

LEBKOV.NL

The Avocado Show

At this popular all-day specialist off bustling Leidsestraat, you’ll find avo-topped burgers, toasts, eggs and salad bowls, plus avocado fries and a fantastic vegan peanut butter ice cream made from the creamy green fruit.

KEIZERSGRACHT 449

THEAVOCADOSHOW.COM

© RIJK VAN DE KEIZER

Going Green

24 | FROM FARM TO VEGAN

Parklife pleasures

Is there a better way to spend a sunny afternoon than heading to a park? While a picnic is an obvious answer, sometimes you just don’t want to bother with all the hassle. Luckily, there are many excellent cafés and eateries in Amsterdam’s parks. At casual Pompet in Noorderpark, there’s French food, cider, natural wines and, fittingly, a boules court. There’s also a court at ‘t Blauwe Theehuis tasting room in Vondelpark, combined with pizza and Brouwerij ‘t IJ beers. Go to ‘t Nieuwe Diep tasting room for a genever tasting at a distillery in the middle of Flevopark. Or simply relax in a hammock

while taking in farmland views at hippie-dippy het Rijk van de Keizer in the Tuinen van West. For a proper sit-down lunch or dinner in manicured gardens at a former manorial estate, head to Merkelbach in Park Frankendael. Meanwhile, Mossel & Gin food bar in Westerpark does a fine trade in mussels and gin-tonics. Or go to Oosterpark for fine dining at VanOost and fancy cocktails at Fitz’s Bar or Fitz’s on the Roof

Farm-to-fork favourites

The pioneering De Kas in Oost has followed a plant-to-plate philosophy since 2001 (long before it became trendy). And because it’s in their DNA, the restaurant is still one of the best at what it does, with Gault&Millau’s Vegetable Restaurant of the Year 2023 award to prove it. Around 300 varieties of vegetables, herbs and fruits grown in their gardens and greenhouse are harvested at the very last minute so they reach your lunch or dinner plate as fresh as possible. Similarly, Gartine in Centrum has long been serving great breakfast and lunch classics made with ingredients sourced from their kitchen garden in Beemster. For delicious all-day brunches with a feel-good factor (part of the proceeds go to the Not For Sale foundation), visit one of three Dignita locations across town, where everything’s free range, locally sourced and -grown. Chef Benny Blisto’s elevated organic food is beloved by local gastronomes, which is why a meal at casual fine dining restaurant Bak continues to be a compelling reason to head to the Houthavens.

BDK Parfum’s recently launched Pas ce Soir Extrait (€260 at Babassu Beauty) will have you happily smelling of quince chutney, cacao and gayo pure jungle essence patchouli.

CORNELIS SCHUYTSTRAAT 40, BABASSU.NL

Vegan delights

These days, there are plant-based versions of all your guilty pleasures, from ‘baby beeef 3.0 burgers’, ‘shrimpz’, ‘kroquettes’, ‘kalamariz ringz’, smiley fries and other deep-fried snacks at one of four Vegan Junk Food Bar locations to scrumptious dairy-free croissants, cakes and cruffins at Saint Jean. Or find plant-based versions of your favourite sushi, including faux flambé salmon, tuna, crab and shrimp rolls as well as sashimi and ceviche rolls at Vegan Sushi Bar in West. Head to the Jordaan for vegan ramen with a creamy mouthfeel that nicely balances salty and sweet at Men Impossible. Enjoy veg-led Mexican at Madre, where you’ll find mushroom tostadas with peanut sauce, grilled artichoke tacos and tortillas with 3D-printed faux-pork. Go East for plant-based cheff y plates, cocktails and live music at H/eart.h

De Kas Bak

Gartine

© GARTINE

@ MOKUMISTA

Saint JeanVegan Sushi Bar

Vegan JunkFood Bar

The tart tequila-based Halogen Spotlight (€17 at LuminAir) combines rhubarb, Willem’s Wermoed pink, vanilla syrup, a frothy top and a salty thyme garnish.

Top Tips

The High Life

In Amsterdam, taking your dining and drinking game to new heights still usually involves a visit to a hotel. Here’s where you’ll find the best rooftop bars and restaurants in every price category.

LuminAir

The views of the old centre really are a cut above at this glitzy rooftop bar. Add to that an impressive interior and cocktails with pizazz – some topped with a bubble that releases smoke when popped – and you have a winning formula. Yummy bar snacks include watermelon-topped oysters (€12 for 2) and deep-fried shrimp sushi (€19 for 8 pieces).

OOSTERDOKSSTRAAT 4 LUMINAIRAMSTERDAM.COM

Hasta La Vista, Baby!

This Iberian fusion eatery surprises and delights with delicious dishes, fantastic 19thfloor vistas and a convenient location next to Zuid station. Must-orders include the fivehour slow-cooked oxtail bao bun with foie gras and cranberry ketchup (€12) and green bean fries with lemongrass aioli (€11).

EDUARD VAN BEINUMSTRAAT 40 HASTALAVISTA.BABY

Bar Bistro Bureau

A massive plant-filled terrace wraps around the rooftop of the B. creative start-up hub in Slotervaart. Here, you’ll find brightly coloured mobile bars, DJ booths, a boules court and views for miles. Big Green Egg barbecues pump out burgers loaded with beef patties and pulled pork (€20.25) plus crowd-pleasers such as cauliflower wings and Caesar salad (both €10).

JOHAN HUIZINGALAAN 763A BARBISTROBUREAU.NL

Selva Restaurant

Situated on the 24th floor of the nhow Amsterdam RAI hotel, this ‘ode to the Amazon rainforest’, features an interior rich with plants and vibrant with colour, and sweeping views of the city.

Chef Roberto Torres takes guests on a ‘gastronomic journey’ through the Latin American landscape with dishes from Mexico, Peru and Brazil.

EUROPABOULEVARD 2B

SELVA-RESTAURANT.COM

Casual Dining

OAXACA

An in-house mezcaleria offers 32 varieties of the smoky agave spirit and plenty of Mexican cocktails, too.

Real Mexican Cuisine

They say that the authentic Mexican kitchen doesn’t travel well, because of its dependence on hyperlocal ingredients. But Oaxaca’s chefs have decided to change all that.

Chefs Iñaki LÓpez de Viñaspre (Sagardi Group) and Joan Bagur (ex-El Bulli, El Celler de Can Rocca, San Pau and Carnitas El Bajío) named the impressive new 135-seater Oaxaca Cuina Mexicana, located in the heart of Amsterdam’s old centre, after Mexico’s culinary capital. Authentic Mexican ingredients are grown in Europe or imported from Mexico and everything’s made using traditional recipes learnt first-hand from mayoras (traditional Mexican cooks), encom-

passing the country’s coastal, desert, tropical and lacustrine cuisines. Expect classic seafood stews, skewer-roasted soft shell prawns (€34), chargrilled elote (corn on the cob, €14), guacamole prepared fresh table-side, sprinkled with tangy chapulines (fried grasshoppers) and served with corn chips and chicharrón (pork crackling) (€18), and an array of salsas with a spicy kick, as well as warm chocolate cake with black mole, spicy chilli sauce and mezcal (€12).

SPUISTRAAT 279, OAXACAAMSTERDAM.NL

© RINZE VEGELIEN

After Dark

HoogtIJ

If you like your houmous silky, head to Yellow House for its signature take topped with crispy chilli oil and served with pickles and pitta bread (€7).

Going Out, Staying Out

Don’t you just love it when popping out for lunch or a drink turns into dinner or staying out-out? These are our favourite spots for this oh-so-seasonal pursuit.

Heading out early? Get a taste of nature and sustainably produced beers at House of Bird, Bird Brewery’s tasting room, located in the Diemerbos forest on the city’s edge. Or cycle out to Sloterpark, where you’ll find Bret, which boasts a restaurant, an urban vineyard, a beer garden with local craft bottles and occasional club nights. Start your night over negronis at the cosmopolitan Bar Bellini before dinner at Zoldering, an upscale French-influenced bistro on Utrechtsestraat that’s beloved by wine connoisseurs, or the glitzy new Italian-American dinnerclub Ventuno Skylounge, which boasts live entertainment, dancers, DJs and bottle service. Or keep it casual over burgers and beers (or cocktails) at the recently renovated The Butcher in Centrum. Go to Noord for ‘groovy tables’ on a hidden roof terrace at HoogtIJ (reservations required) or sundowners with a view at skybar M’Adam before ending the night at one of the area’s many clubs or cafés.

Bar-dancing Multipla

Created by the folks behind popular Bar Piquette and Sissi’s Expo-Resto, the Schinkelbuurt’s newest hotspot – named after one of the ugliest cars ever produced – is ‘an ode to function over form and fun over fancy’ with a concept that combines decent Italian food (prices range from €3.50 to €26.40) with well-chosen wines and after-dinner clubbing. Set in a former garage, it attracts a mostly young, creative crowd.

VALSCHERMKADE 16, MULTIPLA.AMSTERDAM

Yellow House

A creative workspace by day transforms into a lively evening spot with an eclectic music programme and regular performances by local and international talent. The food menu is international with a Middle Eastern slant – think halloumi burgers (€12), falafel salads (€14) and fried chicken with ‘nduja mayo (€10) – and there are cocktails, beers and natural wines, too.

DANZIGERBOCHT 45R, YELLOWHOUSE.AMSTERDAM

Or stay in with Rooster & Wolf, a Dutch artisanal brandy that gets its smooth flavour from barrel-ageing the finest French grapes in oak (€49.50 via Cane & Grain ).

BILDERDIJKSTRAAT 87 CANEANDGRAIN.NL

De Tros

With its (covered) terrace and friendly service, this natural wine bar is perennially packed with a local crowd who come for the natuurwijn and stay for the Med-led menu. Recently, we particularly enjoyed a ‘100-layer lasagna’ with fresh basil oil, cacio e pepe foam, tomato chutney and deliciously crisp burnt edges (€15). The creamy mussels (€14) and brioche French toast with vanilla ice cream (€11) were also memorable.

LINNEAUSSTRAAT 63, DETROSAMSTERDAM.NL

Top Tips

For 23 types of Surinamese sandwiches and saoto ayam soup (a Surinamese chicken soup with Chinese-Javanese roots, €5.95), head to Deli Company

BIJLMERPLEIN 83 DELICOMPANY.NL

Magnificent Mashups

Odd couplings are increasingly finding their way onto restaurant plates. Combining great flavours from around the globe, this New Fusion cuisine is ready to take your palate to new places.

Kafé Kontrast

Swedish chef Ellinor Strinnholm combines her Le Cordon Bleu training with work experience at French and Scandinavian Michelin-starred restaurants in Paris and Malmö and inspiration gleaned from travels in Jakarta, Borneo, Sumatra and the mountains of Bali to create a casual melting pot of cultures where you can dine from Thursday to Saturday or enjoy brunch on the weekend.

CEINTUURBAAN 71 KAFEKONTRAST.COM

CatuaBar

This brainchild of the Brazilian-South African trio who previously founded Rise Bakery combines ‘a mish-mash and splish-splash’ of Latin American and European flavours with an intimate, multi-level interior and a laid-back vibe. The house cocktail, the Catuaba-bark Aged Negroni (€17), is said to have aphrodisiac qualities (you’ve been warned!).

ANDREAS BONNSTRAAT 40 CATUABAR.NL

Veganees

This Asian fusion specialist in West has made a name for its plant-based street food, which includes tasty shareable bites such as spicy Korean fried cauliflower (€9.50), five spice oyster mushroom bao buns (€5.90), baby potatoes with chilli and Szechuan pepper (€7), steamed pak choi with crispy garlic (€8) and chewy Belgian chocolate mochi ice cream (€9).

1E CONSTANTIJN HUYGENSTRAAT 45 VEGANEES.COM

Cape SocialTown Club

Chef Sebastian Erasmus brings South African flavours to Amsterdam (4 courses for €59) and amuses with an Asian twist. Imagine fried Afrikaner pastries such as vetkoek (with biltong fat, caviar and lime) and koeksister (with curry glaze and ponzu) or Cape Fusion Sour cocktails with Cape gooseberry, kiwi and miso (€14).

RAAMSTRAAT 27

Fine Dining

Find out more about food and drink in Amsterdam at iamsterdam.com/ restaurants

SPutting on a Show

The elegant new 340m2 fine-dining restaurant Showw puts creative cooking, heartfelt hospitality and a true passion for wine in the limelight.

tituated on a corner of the CrossOver building near RAI Amsterdam, and with a 29m glass-walled façade and a tastefully understated decor with a walk-in wine cellar, all the attention at Showw goes to what’s on the plate – and in your glass. Chef Floris’ background at Michelin-starred establishments such as Bougainville and De Bokkedoorns shines through in what he calls ‘culinary comfort food’ (from €100 for 5 course tasting menu). Showstoppers include an artfully presented North

Sea seabass ceviche with nori crumble, wasabi crème and a bracing blood orange vinaigrette; salt-baked buttery beetroot with pearl barley, apple cider beurre blanc, chive oil and cacao sticks; and reinvented Baked Alaska: vanilla cake, Mandarin orange ice cream, topped with torched meringue. Meanwhile, award-winning sommelier Mijnhijmer pairs everything with (sometimes surprising) wines that set the scene but never upstage. A star is born!

GELRESTRAAT 28, RESTAURANTSHOWW.COM

Lendl Mijnhijmer (left) and Dorus Floris (middle) and their team make every meal a performance to remember.

What’s on

Where to go and what to see

BY: TOM FLANAGAN

34 Exhibitions

37 On Screen

38 On Stage

40 Family

42 Pop & Rock

43 Classical & Jazz

44 Festivals & Events

46 Interview: Envy Peru

50 Attractions

51 Clubbing

For full listings of what’s on in Amsterdam, visit: iamsterdam.com/ whatson

Summer Dance Forever

International dance festival Summer Dance Forever returns to Paradiso for a riotous celebration of hip-hop moves. Dancers from all over the world land for this week-long event that covers everything from dance battles on the atmospheric Paradiso stage to workshops on European hip-hop and curated club nights. Grab your comfiest sneakers for what’s bound to be a high-energy and exhilarating few days.

20-26 AUGUST, SUMMERDANCEFOREVER.COM

Amsterdam houses many more museums than can fit on these pages. Head to iamsterdam.com to find them all.

Frans Hals

Around 50 works by celebrated painter Frans Hals arrive at the Rijksmuseum in a dedicated showcase of the Haarlem artist dubbed ‘the master of the laugh’. His loose, Impressionist style gave life to the subjects he painted, from cheery musicians to sombre state o cials, and left behind

a lively legacy that still enraptures people today. Organised in collaboration with London’s National Gallery, this will be the fi rst time Hals’ The Laughing Cavalier returns to the Netherlands since 1870.

UNTIL 9 JUNE, RIJKSMUSEUM.NL

Kandinsky from Centre Pompidou

With a rebrand and a whole new name, the H’art museum (formerly The Hermitage) has had a busy year and that’s ahead of one of its biggest exhibitions yet. Enter Wassily Kandinsky, the Russian painter who brought a little colour and a lot of abstraction to the art world. Now, some of his most pioneering works are on display in this special exhibition organised in collaboration with Paris’ Centre Pompidou.

15 JUNE-11 NOVEMBER, HARTMUSEUM.NL

© FRANS HALS, LUITSPELER

© WASSILY KANDINSKY, AUF WEISS II (SUR BLANC II), 1923

Go beyond the human gaze in the EYE Filmmuseum’s latest exhibition Cosmic Realism, which combines anthropology, visual arts and documentary.

UNTIL 20 MAY, EYEFILM.NL

Foam Talent

Showcasing the work of 20 artists from across the globe, Foam Talent 2024-2025 is a group exhibition by some of the world’s most innovative creatives. With almost 50,000 photographs on display, the images reflect the times we live in, covering topics such as gender roles, colonialism and digital democratisation.

UNTIL 22 MAY, FOAM.ORG

National Holocaust Museum

A new entry to Amsterdam, the National Holocaust Museum is set to be the first and only museum to tell the entire story of the persecution of Jewish people in the Netherlands. A history of segregation, persecution and murder, and one of rescue, survival and solidarity, expect to be moved by the permanent exhibition that’s found its home within Amsterdam’s treasured Jewish Cultural Quarter.

OPENS 11 MARCH, JCK.NL

MOØDe

For fashion lovers and photography darlings, Anton Corbijn’s exhibition at Cobra Musem of Modern Art in Amstelveen is a must-visit. With around 200 photos on show, all in Corbijn’s trademark high contrast and moody monochrome palette, you’ll stroll past portraits of anyone from Tom Waits to Naomi Campbell, plus a specially made portrait of Amstelveen-born Martin Garrix, and bask in the light of fashion icons.

UNTIL 12 MAY, COBRA-MUSEUM.NL

Many museums and attractions are free with the I amsterdam City Card. Get yours at iamsterdam.com/citycard. Card

Matthew Wong x Van Gogh

The late Chinese-Canadian artist’s work arrives at the Van Gogh Museum in the exhibition, Painting as a Last Resort that traces the linkage between Wong and the Dutch painter. Both artists struggled with their mental health, but what it took from them gave them something, too: works of extraordinary beauty and dreamy escapism. Get swept up in the narrative of both artists’ lives in this colourful and thoughtful curation.

UNTIL 1 SEPTEMBER, VANGOGHMUSEUM.NL

© ANTON CORBIJN

© VERENA PARAVEL & LUCIEN CASTAINGTAYLOR

© MARISOL MENDEZV

© MATTHEW WONG, THE KINGDOM, 2017, COLLECTION OF LIZ LANGE AND DAVID SHAPIRO

WITH REMBRANDTHUIS

Directed by: Rembrandt

Rembrandt van Rijn may have been a painter, but he was a storyteller at his core. Throughout his career, he acted as a director, positioning his characters to perform the drama of the narrative at play. The only museum in the world completely dedicated to Rembrandt, Rembrandt House Museum’s latest exhibition ties together the Dutch painter’s art and his connection to the theatre scene. The comprehensive selection of his works includes Joseph Accused by Potiphar’s Wife, which returns for three months to the very rooms it was originally painted in.

2 MARCH-26 MAY, REMBRANDTHUIS.NL

Marina Abramović

World-renowned artist and the grand dame of performance art Marina Abramovic takes centre stage at the Stedelijk Museum in a 60-piece collection of her life’s work. Complete with photos, videos, sculptures, four iconic live performances and two works in which the public can participate, if there’s one thing Abramovic guarantees, it’s that you won’t forget her easily.

16 MARCH-14 JULY, STEDELIJK.NL

The opening exhibition of the brand-new Suriname Museum, Meet Su, Meet Us, introduces Suriname and the diaspora while exploring the 350 years of Surinamese-Dutch relations.

OPEN SUMMER 2024, SURINAMEMUSEUM.NL

Grand March

Opulence, style and self-expression are just a few of the tenets of ballroom culture on show in the rooms of Willet-Holthuysen House. Curated in collaboration with House of Vinyard, trailblazers of the Dutch ballroom scene, Grand March: A Historic House Through a Ballroom Lens is a celebration of queer history, tracking ballroom’s evolution from an underground resistance movement to a global artform beloved by many.

UNTIL 26 MAY, AMSTERDAMMUSEUM.NL

© BETE VAN MEEUWEN

© MARINA ABRAMOV I C, FOUR CROSSES:

© REMBRANDT, JOSEPH ACCUSED BY POTIPHAR'S WIFE, 1655. STAATLICHE MUSEEN ZU BERLIN

Open-air film festival Pluk de Nacht has been running for more than two decades, transforming urban spaces into magical outdoor cinemas.

21-31 AUGUST, PLUKDENACHT.NL

Roze Filmdagen

Amsterdam’s annual queer film festival celebrates pioneering cinema, actors and directors from the community. The longest-running and largest LGBTQI+ film festival in the Netherlands, expect everything from shorts and feature films (such as Gondola, pictured) to documentaries and panel talks, all within the industrial but cosy confines of Westerpark’s Het Ketelhuis.

13-24 MARCH, ROZEFILMDAGEN.NL

On Screen

Kaboom Animation Festival

A dreamy two-day festival that celebrates the animated world in all its forms and colours, Kaboom is for animation lovers and makers alike, with award-winning shorts and feature-length films on show. The festival also runs a competition for best animated films, with this year’s crop featuring the story of a girl on an adventure in a surreal underwater world (Deep Sea) and that of a girl who, suffocated by the tedium of daily life, dreams of a grand escape ( 27, recipient of Palme d’Or 2023 for short film).

5-14 APRIL, KABOOMFESTIVAL.NL

at Vondelpark IDFA

As of March, documentary lovers can find a place to gather as IDFA (International Documentary Film Festival Amsterdam) opens its own home in the majestic Vondelpark Pavillion. From uncut gems to critically acclaimed documentaries, IDFA’s new outpost looks to become the meeting place for film lovers and the curious. Catch a short film or get comfortable for a multi-hour marathon before a long walk in the park to discuss and dissect what you watched.

FROM MARCH, IDFA.NL

GRAB

On Stage Scala foodbar & theatre

Ablend of theatre and dinner, Scala always o ers a memorable evening out. Grab a dish from the retro snack machine wall or tuck into antipasti platters before heading downstairs to the intimate theatre spaces. In the space of one evening, you can watch three different 20-minute performances that encompass everything from stand-up comedy and live music to monologues and even magic. The programme is di erent every week and there’s even international night with English performances every Sunday for the non-Dutch speakers out there. Reserve two or three performances online at the times you prefer and have your dinner, snacks or just a drink in between shows. Or before, or after, it’s your call!

VAN HALLSTRAAT 286, SCALA-AMSTERDAM.NL

For full listings of what’s on in Amsterdam, visit our website: iamsterdam.com/ whatson

Julidans

The capital’s leading contemporary dance festival, Julidans, is about breaking free from the norm. With more than 40 performances across 14 separate Amsterdam locations – and International Theater Amsterdam at the heart of it – Julidans’ characteristically eccentric and boundless programme proves that dancing does, in fact, take guts.

7-21 JULY, JULIDANS.NL

In the Solitude of Cotton Fields

Emmy-Award-winning and Oscar-nominated John Malkovich and Lithuanian star Ingeborga Dapkūnaitė take to the stage in the adaptation of Bernard-Marie Koltès’ acclaimed play In the Solitude of Cotton Fields. Centred around themes of desire, fear, vulnerability and secrecy, for one night, International Theater Amsterdam’s modern and open Rabozaal transforms into an intensely intimate affair.

14 APRIL, ITA.NL

© Ø STEIN HAARA, LIVING MONUMENT

© BOY HAZES

For 10 days, NDSM wharf turns into a playground for creators of all ages, with urban development and society as the focus of Over het IJ Festival

12-20 JULY, OVERHETIJ.NL

Holland Festival

One of the highlights of Amsterdam’s theatre and dance agenda is the city-wide Holland Festival, which offers a heady mix of theatre, music, opera, film and visual arts, and international performance pieces in various languages. Since its inception in 1947, the programming has consistently emphasised cross-disciplinary art. This year marks the 77th edition and will kick off with a concert featuring a 50-strong piano ensemble, a visual performance of an Armenian folk tale and an adaptation of Shakespeare’s Hamlet, to name a few.

6-29 JUNE, HOLLANDFESTIVAL.NL

The Circle of Truth

In a post-truth era, what exactly does the truth look like anymore? The Circle of Truth (Part Two) looks to answer precisely that in an immersive 2.5-hour performance incorporating dance, technology, theatre and music. Housed within the industrial walls of Door Open Space at NDSM, head through the door with the red circle over it and lose yourself in this large-scale theatre experience. For a good start to the evening, enjoy a vegan meal at the in-house Café Central before the show begins.

7-30 MARCH, JOINTHECIRCLEOFTRUTH.COM

De Parade

Travelling theatre festival

De Parade sets up its tents for the summer as it lands in Zuid’s Martin Luther King Park. With more than 80 performances across dance, music, theatre, stand-up comedy, spoken word and even mime, this is a genuine cultural experience for all, whether you’re a die-hard theatre devotee or just along for the ride.

16 AUGUST-1 SEPTEMBER DEPARADE.NL

© MOONSARIS

© ALWIN POIANA

© ORPHEAS EMIRZAS

Artis

Natura Artis Magistra, or Artis as it’s more commonly known, is one of the oldest zoos in the world. Home to an aquarium, an arboretum with more than 700 different trees (and 200 species), a planetarium and its own wildlife park with jaguars, elephants and red-faced spider monkeys,

Circusbende Festival

An Erasmuspark and Noord regular, Circusbende pitches up its tents every summer for mystical and retro fun. Jugglers, clowns and acrobats all feature, alongside live musical performances and plenty of audience participation for the kids. Better yet, the festival site and music are freely accessible to all, with circus acts organised on a ticketed or donation basis.

15-18 AUGUST, HET GROENE VELD, 29 AUGUST1 SEPTEMBER, ERASMUSPARK, CIRCUSBENDE.NL

there’s plenty to see. Combine a visit here with nearby Micropia, where kids can learn about the invisible life of microbes and the Groote Museum, an interactive science museum that answers the big questions about life and humanity.

PLANTAGE

KERKLAAN 38-40, ARTIS.NL

Virtual Reality Fun

Virtual reality experiences are in significant demand, and across Noord you’ll find a range of options for kids and parents. Fight zombies or escape from pirates on a remote island in Zero Latency VR’s hyper-immersive experience, with plenty of free-roaming space to battle the dead and challenge your friends. Elsewhere, Lightning VR Amsterdam has a 200m² room for close combat and zombie

battles, while the A’DAM VR Game Park in the basement of A’DAM Tower is your chance to try a number of games, from treasure- to ghost hunting.

MEEUWENLAAN 122, ZEROLATENCYVR.NL

ASTERWEG 19E1, LIGHTNINGVR.COM

OVERHOEKSPLEIN 15, ADAM-VR.COM

Tucked away in Zuid and too often overlooked, Amstelpark has everything you could want for a day out with the family. Climb aboard the mini train (the Amsteltrein) and journey through the park to the petting zoo, all the way to the maze and the large playground. Stop by the mini golf course to get those competitive spirits racing before a well-deserved afternoon snack at the pancake house. AMSTELPARK.INFO

© ALBI KNIGHT

© RONALD VAN WEEREN

©

ALICE REN

Nautical might and naval history combine at glass-roofed National Maritime Museum, complete with a VR experience to a 17th-century harbour and a real VOC ship.

HETSCHEEPVAARTMUSEUM.COM

Watersports at Sloterplas

In Amsterdam’s greenest district Nieuw-West, you’ll find a large cut of blue known as the Sloterplas. On the edge of the lake, Watersportcentre Sloterplas offers sailing courses for kids and watersport parties, where children can enjoy one of three activities, be it canoeing, sailing or building their own raft. And if you’re visiting in May or over the summer, don’t miss the Splashweeks, when kids can try a new sport every day.

WATERSPORTCENTRUMSLOTERPLAS.NL

Amsterdamse Bos

The capital’s very own forest is a restorative day out for parents and children alike. There’s Fun Forest, a treetop adventure park where the most adventurous young (and old) ones can glimpse the treetops while scaling obstacle courses. Or for those feeling less adventurous, the Ridammerhoeve Goat Farm has a petting zoo and the option to climb into the pens and play with the goats and piglets. The farm shop selling local produce such as fresh goat’s cheese and honey means parents can leave with a little memento of the day.

FUNFOREST.NL, GEITENBOERDERIJ.NL

NEMO

A go-to for families visiting and living in Amsterdam, Nemo Science Museum has a roster of educational activities that make it so much more than just a reliable choice. Dive into the world of science and create a soap bubble you can stand in or take on the role of a chemist and experiment in a Laboratory. Learn all about humankind through games in the Humania section, while in Fenomena, physics and the wonder of lighting are on display.

OOSTERDOK 2, NEMOSCIENCEMUSEUM.NL

© MARIE CHARLOTTE PEZ É

© IRINA RAIU

Pop & Rock

Pristine harmonies and layered instrumentals await with Jessica and Camilla Staveley-Taylor of The Staves, whose new music marks their first venture without sister Emily.

10 MAY, PARADISO.NL

Olivia Rodrigo Emotional

Oranges

Sultry and summery, Emotional Oranges serves up delectable R&B tunes any season. Made up of Azad Right, an audio engineer for Drake, and Vali Porter, a vocal coach for Adele, catch soft pop hits such as ‘Devotion’ and ‘West Coat Love’ at Melkweg in March for some early sunshine in the spring.

18 MARCH, MELKWEG.NL

Alvvays

It may have taken five years for Alvvays’ third album, Blue Rev, to take shape, but their shoegaze dreaminess and coastal flair return better than ever. After debuting at Bitterzoet in 2017, the Canadian band will take to the Paradiso stage for a night of wistful melodies and jangly guitars.

3 JULY, PARADISO.NL

Few stars have had the meteoric rise to the top that Olivia Rodrigo has. Pop’s newest muse descends on the Ziggo Dome off the back of her Grammy-nominated second album, Guts, awash with killer hooks and spikier lyrics. Expect a show full of angsty, punchy hits and an onstage presence that packs just as much.

24-25 MAY, ZIGGODOME.NL

Pet Shop Boys

Brit synth-pop legends make the trip to AFAS Live, this time for their Greatest Hits tour Dreamworld Always consistent and pioneering, the duo’s back catalogue is awash with lush electronic tunes and bright, breezy bops. Is rock overrated? The Pet Shop Boys certainly make a good case.

26 JUNE, AFASLIVE.NL

The Grammy-winning quartet Yellowjackets arrive in Bimhuis with their trademark jazz, R&B and funk fusion.

16 MAY, BIMHUIS.NL

Classical & Jazz

Grachtenfestival

It wouldn’t be Amsterdam without music on the canals. Luckily, Grachtenfestival returns for its 27th edition in August, when musicians from around the world perform at 30 different locations along the city’s watery belt. Don’t miss the iconic Prinsengrachtconcert, where locals and visitors huddle on boats along the canal for a spectacular classical music show.

23 AUGUST-1 SEPTEMBER, GRACHTENFESTIVAL.NL, 24 AUGUST, PRINSENGRACHTCONCERT.NL

Jazz at the Plantage

While jazz usually lends itself to cosy, dimly-lit bars, the Plantage neighbourhood in Oost proves it’s just as special in alfresco settings. Organised by H’art Museum and in collaboration with Conservatorium van Amsterdam, this summer series takes place on Sundays in the museum’s sun-dappled courtyard, where intimate jazz performances gently ease you into the late summer nights.

JULY-AUGUST, HARTMUSEUM.NL

Lunchtime concerts

Classical music needn’t just be for the evening, so stop by a lunchtime concert by the Conservatorium van Amsterdam at some of the capital’s iconic venues. From the hallowed halls of The Concertgebouw and glimmering facade of the Muziekgebouw to the dreamy spires of Westerkerk, enjoy some of the (often free) concerts put on by youth and organ ensembles – a restorative escape in the middle of the day.

CONCERTGEBOUW.NL, MUZIEKGEBOUW.NL,

Terrace concerts at Muziekgebouw aan ‘t IJ

Head down to the waterfront of Amsterdam’s superb concert hall for a summer of intimate and atmospheric terrace concerts with a spectacular view. Whether it’s experimental jazz or a piano recital, bask in the sound of music over dinner and drinks while the River IJ laps gently next to you.

JULY-AUGUST, MUZIEKGEBOUW.NL/TERRAS

© MUZIEKGEBOUW AAN 'T IJ

© MELLE MEIVOGEL

© ROBERTO CIFARELLI

Festivals

Mindfulness sessions meet epic workouts in Sanctum, fitness classes in various Amsterdam churches that anyone can participate in; just be prepared to sweat.

WEEKLY, WEARESANCTUM.COM

AArt on Paper

Queer & Pride

The clue’s in the name of this Amsterdam festival, which focuses on paper-based art. Housed within the cavernous Gashouder building in Westerpark, around 50 galleries and 15 art dealers are taking part to show how an artist – whether with pencil, charcoal, pen and ink, watercolour, gouache or collage –can bring paper to life. This year’s theme is the shift from classical to contemporary, with the central exhibition organised by the Netherlands Association of Corporate Art Collections (VBCN) showcasing 10 of the best works of art on paper from their members. 9-12 MAY, ARTONPAPERAMSTERDAM.NL

msterdam’s annual celebration of the LGBTQI+ community returns for its two-week run, with this year’s theme, Together, focusing on unity within the community and the idea that even when we lose our way, we can always fi nd a way back to one another. The Queer Week typically covers events in the fi rst week, while Pride covers the second. The calendar includes more than 300 events, but notable highlights are Milkshake (26-28 July) – a two-day music festival that’s one of Amsterdam’s most glittering displays of open-mindedness and expression – the Canal Parade (3 August) and the sheer number of art and culture events: talks, performances and shows that spotlight the queer community in all its expressions.

27 JULY-4 AUGUST

PRIDE.AMSTERDAM

© ALMICHAEL FRAAY

© JAN

DE RIDDER

National holidays

Springtime in the Netherlands is awash with national holidays and significant celebrations worth making the trip for. King’s Day (27 April) is the big one, where the entire country decks out in orange and takes to the streets (and canals) to celebrate the reigning monarch. A massive country-wide party, Amsterdam’s various

neighbourhoods have something happening on almost every street. Liberation Day (5 May) is when the Netherlands marks the end of Nazi occupation with a big party and various music events with freedom at the heart of each one – a particularly good festival is happening in Haarlem, see page 90 for more information.

Open Tuinen Dagen

Private gardens often feel like fairytale paradises of their own and Amsterdam has a number of gorgeous courtyards and serene oases that prove this. Luckily for you, a city-wide initiative called Open Garden Days invites visitors into some of the capital’s most manicured gardens for a weekend in June, from the historical photography museum Huis Marseille to the regal estate of Museum Van Loon.

14-16 JUNE, 10AM-5PM, OPENTUINENDAGEN.NL

Rolling Kitchens

The Rolling Kitchens (or Rollende Keukens in Dutch) food festival sees dozens of mobile kitchens and food trucks roll into town at Westerpark to create one enormous open-air restaurant. A veritable smorgasbord of food, this is one of the few times you’ll find Dutch delicacies next to searing Korean street food and the BBQ that helped put Texan cuisine on the map.

8-12 MAY

ROLLENDEKEUKENS.AMSTERDAM

Kwaku

Zuidoost staple Kwaku Summer Festival enters its seventh edition for a riotous celebration of culture, food and sport. What began as a small, local football tournament has evolved into one of the country’s largest festivals, though the football tournament still makes up a crucial part of the event’s distinct flavour. The tantalising aromas of Surinamese, Asian, South American, Caribbean and African food are another key focus, and the various food stalls remain one of the festival’s biggest draws. Each year, disco and funk legends (such as Shalamar and Sister Sledge) complete the main stage line-up for some guaranteed summer groove.

13 JULY-4 AUGUST, KWAKUFESTIVAL.NL

Amsterdam

Art Week

An essential date for art lovers, Amsterdam Art Week is the place to discover what the capital has to offer in contemporary art. It transforms the city into an international meeting place for art enthusiasts, collectors, and emerging and renowned artists. For five days, discover the latest developments and debates at more than 50 participating galleries, project spaces, museums and residencies dotted around the city.

29 MAY-2 JUNE, AMSTERDAMART.COM

© KOEN SMILDE

© GALERIE RON MANDOS

© LUCIANO DE BOTERMAN

©

DAVID STEGENGA

BY: TOM FLANAGAN

Envy of All

Drag queen Envy Peru has made it. She always knew she would.

Envy Peru always knew she was going to do something special. She just wasn’t sure what. But a chance encounter with drag in acting school set Boris Itzkovich Escobar’s alter ego – Envy Peru – in motion. Since then, she’s been unstoppable. The winner of Drag Race Holland – and the first drag queen to guest judge on Drag Race España – a recurring role as the main judge on drag-themed game show Make Up Your Mind, a voice actor for Dreamworks’ Trolls 3, and an ambassador for Pride Amsterdam, Envy’s career is a series

of firsts. She’s now the most-followed drag queen on social media in the Netherlands. We sat down with her to chat about her meteoric rise to drag fame, the challenges of being visibly queer and why, after everything, she still calls Amsterdam home.

Can you tell us a bit about your journey?

‘I never intended to become a drag queen. I went to acting school, but I always felt like something was missing, like I couldn’t fully express myself. One day, a teacher asked us

© ANDY ONDERSTAL

to show the class something we were proud of. For me, that was my first picture in drag. I did a little presentation for the class, and the teacher said maybe this is what I’m meant to do.’

And that was the start of Envy. What does a day in the life of Envy look like?

‘My day looks a little different compared to other drag queens. I don’t perform in every corner of the city because I want to keep a certain kind of exclusivity to my drag. But I still perform in the gay street Reguliersdwarsstraat on special occasions, because those places gave me the opportunities. I’m also busier now because I’m working on Make up your Mind and I’ve got a whole lot of TV planned, plus I have a very cool campaign coming up with a big brand.’

You’re one of the most well-known drag queens in the Netherlands. What does it feel like to look back now and see how far you’ve come?

‘My mum brought me to the Netherlands from Peru for a better future. She was hospitalised because she worked so hard and I was put in foster care. I’ve always had this fire in me. Knowing my mum sacrificed her youth, it needed to be for something.’

Find Envy Peru at Queer & Pride, 27 July-4 August as one of the Pride Ambassadors, and at the Canal Parade on Saturday 3 August from 12pm-6pm. Read more about the event on page 44.

Amsterdam is considered one of the world’s most gay-friendly cities, but we’ve seen a rise in hate crimes. You were even attacked on a bus recently while you were out of drag. Do you think the city has changed?

‘I still see Amsterdam as a safe city, but it has changed in the past 10 years. I hear the older queens talking about how, in the 90s, they could be in drag at Museumplein and nobody would even look up. Amsterdam was really known for that. Since my attack, I’ve lost my faith in people a bit. It really shook me.’

‘Sometimes, you don’t even realise the people you’re inspiring or reaching just by being who you are’

Could the city do more for its LGBTQI+ community?

‘The city and the LGBTQI+ unit of the police (Roze in Blauw; ‘Pink in Blue’) could do a lot more. After my attack, we filed a report and nothing happened, nobody got prosecuted. I got a call from the mayor to show her support, which was really lovely, but that’s not enough. We need to figure out what we’re going to do about it too.’

Queer & Pride Amsterdam is a massive moment in the year – what does it mean to you?

‘It’s like a fantasy world every time; I always think the world would look so much nicer if people were as accepting and loving as they are during Pride. That said, there’s still a lot of hate as well during Pride. And that really shows why Pride is still so needed.’

You’re also an ambassador for Pride Amsterdam, somebody who reflects the diversity of the LGBTQI+

community – how has that experience been for you?

‘I was really honoured to have been asked. You need to bring something to the table or impact your community for them to consider you. I remember this one kid who wanted to take a picture with me, and he just burst into tears. He said: ‘I’ve been following you for years; I’m Black, I’m gay, I get bullied, and nobody understands me. But being here and seeing you gives me so much power, like it’s okay to be the person I am.’ And that really touched me. Sometimes, you don’t even realise the people you’re inspiring or reaching just by being who you are.’

Where would you recommend people get a taste of the capital’s LGBTQI+ scene?

‘Reguliersdwarsstraat, as it’s where all the gay bars and clubs are. But you can also find incredible events in spaces which aren’t usually queer. For instance, Paradiso has some very cool queer parties such as Sweetie Darling. Oh, and the queer bar, Pamela.’

What’s a core memory you associate with Amsterdam?

‘I have a lot of happy memories from the gay streets and the people and bars there – it’s where my career took off. This city made me the person that I am today. It gave me the confidence to be queer, gay and a drag queen. It made me feel accepted. In general I love walking along the canals and looking into people’s homes. You see all these spectacular, beautiful houses with gorgeous decor’

One thing you’ve spoken about is an expiration date on Envy. What legacy do you want to leave?

‘I want to build a good reputation by being myself and being out there, I want the public to fall in love with me. Make people realise that drag queens aren’t hurting anyone; we’re just like anyone else.’

ENJOY LIVE

TABLE GAMES & EXCITING SLOT MACHINES

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EXPERIENCE

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HOLLAND CASINO

DATUM 0

AMSTERDAM CITY CENTRE OPEN 12 PM – 3 AM

DATUM 1

DATUM 0

AMSTERDAM SLOTERDIJK OPEN 24/7

DATUM 2

ZANDVOORT OPEN 12 PM – 3 AM

DATUM 1

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On the eve of Keti Koti (30 June), many people pause to reflect upon the horrors of slavery during a vigil at the National Slavery Monument in Oosterpark.

Keti Koti (meaning ‘broken chains’) comes from Sranan Tongo – the second language of Suriname, right after Dutch. Every year on 1 July, Amsterdam reflects on the history of slavery and celebrates the moment Dutch slavery was abolished in Suriname and the Antilles in 1863.

Bigi Spikri

The official national commemoration starts with the Bigi Spikri, a cheerful and colourful parade where people in traditional costumes walk from central Amsterdam to Oosterpark. Bigi Spikri literally means ‘big mirror’: the story goes that when the enslaved were freed, they paraded through big cities past reflective shop windows, admiring themselves in their beautiful clothes. Once the parade gets to Oosterpark, the commemoration includes speeches by influential political figures, ministers and ambassadors from home and abroad.

Celebration

After the remembrance ceremony, the festival kicks off. Traditionally, this takes place in Oosterpark – but in 2023, it was at Museumplein (keep an eye on the website for the 2024 location). Expect an abundance of stalls and food trucks serving Surinamese BBQ, noodles, pom sandwiches, roti, bara and much more, along with multiple stages, each with their own musical programme, including artists such as Jayh Yawson, Chivv, Dylisa and Cho. There are also talks organised by, for example, The Black Archives, where discussions will focus on themes of healing and recovery and what this all means for the community.

Experience life on a houseboat at the Houseboat Museum, a former cargo boat and one of the city’s cosiest and most unique barges.

PRINSENGRACHT 296K HOUSEBOATMUSEUM.NL

Tulp Festival

This year marks 10 years of the Tulp Festival, when Amsterdam blooms with one of the country’s most recognised flowers. Dreamt up by garden designer Saskia Albrecht, who wanted ‘a tulip for and from every Amsterdammer’, every neighbourhood from Noord to Zuidoost and Oost to Nieuw-West will be

participating, with flowering locations found using a custom online map. There’s set to be a tulip walking route from Damrak towards Dam, Rokin, De Munt and Vijzelstraat along the Weteringcircuit, as well as a kilometre-long row of tulips for visitors to enjoy along the Stadhouderskade.

1-30 APRIL, TULPFESTIVAL.COM

ARTIS

Zoomeravonden

Summer hits the animal kingdom at Artis, Amsterdam’s zoo, the oldest of its kind in the Netherlands. Every Saturday from July to September, the Artis grounds remain open until sunset for their unmissable Zoomeravonden (Summer Nights) evening programme. Lay your picnic blanket between the kaleidoscopic flower beds as musical talent takes to the bandstand beneath golden skies. Alternatively, take a guided tour with a zookeeper and glimpse at some of the slumbering animals or, better yet, the nocturnal ones.

PLANTAGE KERKLAAN 38-40, ARTIS.NL

Hortus Botanicus

Green is good (read the why and how on page 6), so revel in Amsterdam's leafiest corners this spring. The city’s botanical gardens are some of the oldest of their kind in the world and make for a beautiful afternoon excursion. Visit the butterfly house and its 100+ species or glimpse the 150-year-old-plus water lily, which opens its flower daily around dusk.

PLANTAGE MIDDENLAAN 2A, DEHORTUS.NL

© JOHN LEWIS MARSHALL

© SAMUEL VAN LEEUWEN

DANCE THE NIGHT (OR DAY) AWAY |

Tropikali

A relative newcomer to the Amsterdam festival scene, Tropikali describes itself as a musical journey from Berlin to Rio, with a layover in Beirut. Taking place on the grounds of NDSM and café Noorderlicht, it’s home to multiple main stages playing Latin-infused techno, Middle Eastern and Balkan beats, and pop from around the world to draw an international and diverse crowd. It is organising a special Weekender edition for the first time ever, making this two-day event the perfect salute to welcome in the warmer season.

23-24 JUNE, TROPIKALI.NL

Electronic music festivals

Amsterdam is known for many things, but electronic music and festivals might be two of its most successful exports. Little surprise that when it comes to electronic-centric festivals, there’s no lack of choice. For a worldclass lineup: DGTL at NDSM (29-31 March, dgtl.nl). For techno among the trees: Lentekabinet (18-19 May, hetkabinetfestival. nl). For classic festival maximalism: Amsterdam Open-Air (1-2 June, amsterdamopenair.nl). And for summery, electronic escapism: Dekmantel at Amsterdamse Bos (26 July-4 August, dekmantelfestival.com).

BOPS

Founded by Dutch-American DJ duo and pop fanatics Evert Groot and Tom Morgan, Bops (a name taken from the popular internet phrase for ‘good [pop] song’) has quickly become one of Amsterdam’s go-to queer parties. What began as a basement party for friends has since blossomed into a quarterly night at The Other Side, where anyone and everyone is encouraged to embrace their inner diva. Reeling off a roster of high-octane pop and house with a disco twist, Bops is a welcome tonic for those looking for an alternative to techno. A kaleidoscopic night of queer joy, come for the bops – stay for the crowd.

10 MAY, 28 JULY, 2 AUGUST, LINKTR.EE/BOPS.AMS

Levenslang

Bordering Oost, club Levenslang in a former prison (levenslang meaning ‘for life’ in Dutch) has made a success of itself, in part due to its diverse programme; from retro 70s, 80s and 90s throwbacks to dark, gritty techno nights. While its industrial confines make for a fine escape for techno lovers, it’s a daytime venue too that soon opens its own restaurant.

H.J.E. WENCKEBACHWEG 48, LEVENSLANG.AMSTERDAM

© LEONEL PICCARDO

© KONSTANTIN SONNENKIND

Explore Amsterdam’s neighbourhoods City Guide ’s

BY: TOM FLANAGAN, KARIN ENGELBRECHT

For more information on the neighbourhoods of Amsterdam see: iamsterdam.com/ neighbourhoods

54 Map

56 West

62 Nieuw-West

64 Oost

66 Noord

70 Centrum

72 Zuid

74 Zuidoost

Erasmuspark

The small but major green space of Erasmuspark is having its time in the sun as the surrounding neighbourhood of Bos en Lommer (in short: BoLo) booms. Ringed by water and home to its own café, tness park, the tantalising aromas of barbeques and even a summertime circus, this tranquil corner is an ideal spot to picnic with friends after roaming the canals.

GEUZENVELDSLOTERMEER

BOS

SLOTERPLAS

NIEUWWEST

WESTERPARK

EN LOMMER & DE BAARSJES

REMBRANDTPARK

WESTERGASFABRIEK

WESTERKERK

OUDWEST

NIEUWE MEER

AMSTERDAMSE BOS

RIDAMMERHOEVE

A'DAM TOWER

NIEUWE KERK

ROYAL PALACE AMSTERDAM

VAN GOGH MUSEUM

RIJKSMUSEUM

STEDELIJK MUSEUM

ROYAL CONCERTGEBOUW

EYE FILMMUSEUM

DUTCH NATIONAL OPERA & BALLET

AMSTELPARK

ROYAL THEATRE CARRÉ

NEMO SCIENCE MUSEUM

NOORDERPARK

NATIONAL

HERMITAGE MUSEUM

MARITIME MUSEUM

OOSTERPARK

OOSTELIJKE EILANDEN

OOST

WATERLAND

ZUIDOOST

FLEVOPARK

GAASPERPLAS

JAAP EDENBAAN

Hugo de Grootplein

One of Amsterdam’s most reliable clubs and radio stations, RadioRadio is for music lovers looking for intimate and curated moments.

PAZZANISTRAAT 3, RADIORADIO.RADIO

West-Side Stories

Abuzz with creative ventures and new pockets to explore, the phrase ‘West

is best’ never goes without merit.

The most densely populated district of the capital, West isn’t one to shy away from the action. Made up of four smaller neighbourhoods – Oud-West, Bos en Lommer, Westerpark and De Baarsjes – West represents much of what makes Amsterdam a capital du jour: bustling, innovative and communal. But while West is a well-trodden path for those visiting Amsterdam, who head to the monumental Westergas complex and the sweep of green known as Westerpark, there is still so much to discover. Overtoom cuts more than just a border along one side of Vondelpark, hedging in a grid of enviable restaurants, bars and venues between itself and Kinkerstraat, home to iconic De Hallen – a cultural hub and food court housed in a renovated tram depot. Beyond Westerpark’s northern perimeter,

descend on leafy Spaarndammerbuurt, one of the city’s most in-demand neighbourhoods.

Emerging flavours

On the western edges, Bos en Lommer and De Baarsjes, with their mix of young and international populations, have become attractive and increasingly dynamic places to live. Cycle along the Jan van Galenstraat, one of the area’s main thoroughfares, and stop at Swedish café Selma’s for a cinnamon bun or Ela! Traiterie for Greek fare. Erasmuspark isn’t far away, which is excellent for a quiet wander before you descend into De Baarsjes. This is where you’ll find a blend of creative spaces – such as MidWest, a former school turned café and creative space that is a brutalist beauty – and emerging restaurants such as Oficina and Felperlaan

For more information on Amsterdam West, check out the Neighbourhood Guide on our website: iamsterdam.com/ neighbourhoods

INSIDER TIP

‘MidWest is the perfect place to ‘work from home’. On Fridays, this cultural community centre hosts community dinners, where you can enjoy an inexpensive multi-course meal, prepared by chefs from the neighbourhood.’

Wessel (30), civil servant

© LISA VAN ZELM

West

58 | ALL-DAY AFFAIR

Harbour life

While West is more defi ned by its green expanses than its waterside hangouts, head north from Westerpark – past Museum Het Schip and beyond spirited Spaarndammerstraat – and you’ll eventually reach endlessly cool Houthavens. One of the city’s newest neighbourhoods, this is where the industrial edge meets enterprising ventures, such as restaurant and vinyl hub Borisov, rooftop hideout Yellow House, gloriously glassy Amsterand cultural hub dam Theatre Toekomstmuziek.

Bilderdijkstraat

Named after a writer and poet (like many other streets in the area), you’ll find lots of vintage shops here, including Jutka & Riska, ReShare Store, Tutti Frutti and First Vintage Fashion. There’s also a range of other places to peruse, such as plant shop Wildernis, kids concept store Wijs West and furniture store Fést.

Miuz Gelato Artigianale

Treat yourself to true artisanal gelato at this Italian-run ice cream shop. Made from scratch with seasonal ingredients (no prefab powders, colourings, flavourings or fruit pastes), the ice cream here is slow-churned and stored the proper way in covered, circular containers. Tip: you order by size, not by the scoop (from €4.50 for a piccolo to €7.90 for a grande).

OVERTOOM 117, MIUZ.NL

UPCOMING SHOPPING STREET

Add colour to your drinking game with these Claude wine glasses by Amsterdam-based Brût Homeware (€34.95 for 2 at Gekaapt).

KINKERSTRAAT 320-324 GEKAAPT.NL

Located off Vondelpark, Orgelpark is worth stopping by for a spontaneous organ concert, but also for its Art Deco space.

GERARD

BRANDTSTRAAT 26, ORGELPARK.NL

Ons Genoegen

Few places can say they’re a genuine escape from the city, but this neighbourhood farm offers some much-needed respite. Part petting zoo, part social venture that helps get unemployed people back to work, Buurtboerderij Ons Genoegen is a real idyll on the edge of Westerpark. Head there on a sunny afternoon for a beer or coffee in the fields while the gentle lull of farm life washes over you.

SPAARNDAMMERDIJK 319, BUURTBOERDERIJ.NL

INSIDER INTERVIEW

Dolores Del Dia

Lovers of maximalist design should make a beeline for this exuberant boutique, which combines handpicked vintage and new furniture, fashion and accessories. Looking for a Moulin Rouge-style boudoir lamp? A ceramic panther statue? A bejewelled Chanel cuff ? Or a 1960s Patijn desk? You might just find it here, if you’re lucky.

JAN PIETER HEIJESTRAAT 91-93 FACEBOOK.COM/DOLORESDELDIA

Floor van de Pavert, owner of SuperBra

‘As someone with a 60K bra size, I had a very hard time shopping for my size in the Netherlands. I love lingerie so much and it’s so disheartening to go into a store only to hear ‘that’s not for you’. So I wanted to create a place where everyone would feel welcome and get a proper personalised fitting. I opened my shop in West because it has a cool, upcoming vibe with a lot of vintage stores, cafés and other interesting shops. We stock bras in European band sizes 60105 and cup sizes A-Q, with the widest range of nudes in any physical store in the world. The brands we carry include Ewa Michalak, Elomi, Panache, Fantasie and Freya. All for mid-range prices (under €85). And we offer swimwear, sports and maternity options, too. For spring/summer 2024, we’re seeing a lot of ice cream colours, with a twist, like yellow with white, which I really like.’

KINKERSTRAAT 92, SUPERBRA.NL

West

With the porcelain Lady Jug & Vase (€24.99) from Things I Like Things I Love, dinner conversations will always shape up nicely.

JAN EVERTSENSTRAAT 106 THINGSILIKETHINGSILOVE.COM

Daily Paper

For unisex hoodies, streetwear and baby clothes with serious street cred, look no further than this popular local label with international appeal. The brand’s signature designs combine its founders’ heritage and passion for fashion to create a look of contemporary cool with an African edge.

BILDERDIJKSTRAAT

131, DAILYPAPERCLOTHING.COM

Bar Bario

A recent addition to buzzy Van Lennepbuurt in OudWest, Bar Bario is helping bring some more queer and BIPOC flavour to the neighbourhood. Split over three floors, find yourself a nook on the mezzanine level or grab a seat at the bar for some of the area’s best cocktails. Home to pop-up events and exhibitions, this is the spot for a mojito, ambience and maybe a little experimental art.

BILDERDIJKSTRAAT 186, BARBARIO.NL

Vessel

Beloved by residents of Houthavens and anyone who likes being close to the water, Vessel is a venue for all seasons (and appetites). Known for its day-to-night menu, a trip here best begins with a lavish brunch before riverside cocktails or even a splash in the water from the jetty. Once you’ve soaked up the atmosphere, head back inside the brasserie, where a finedining menu comes out to play.

REVALEILAND 500, VESSELAMSTERDAM.NL

Sunday Market Westergas

Shop Amsterdam-style at this Sunday market, where designers, artists and other creatives sell their wares directly to the public. You’ll find stands with housewares, ceramics, fashion, vintage items, jewellery, accessories, illustrations, affordable art and kids’ products. And appetites can be sated with organic food and drinks from indoor and outdoor cafés. Apart from shopping and snacking, there’s plenty to do for children and adults, including creative workshops, live music and picnicking in the park.

FIRST SUNDAY OF THE MONTH, 12:00-18:00, PAZZANISTRAAT 33, SUNDAYMARKET.NL

© BAR BARIO

EVER SEEN A CITY SO FRUITFUL?

Nieuw-West

62 | PARKS & RECREATION

A wave of community-driven initiatives and buzzy venues lend Amsterdam’s greenest neighbourhood some alternative charm.

Leafy Frontiers

The capital’s youngest neighbourhood, NieuwWest has emerged from a sprawl of historical villages into a booming residential community with serious green credentials. From Sloten, the ancient village that borders the southwestern corner of Nieuw-West, through to the lakeside bliss of Sloterplas, this neighbourhood is a sweep of green and water, making it a perfect escape for nature lovers and families who fi nd themselves in the capital. The

Bret

Built from bright red shipping containers surrounding a pretty garden, Bret is a restaurant, urban vineyard and bar right next to Sloterdijk station. The venue also transforms into an intimate nightclub after dark, hosting some of the city’s best local DJs alongside international names. Keep an eye on the agenda and you’re sure to be swept up into Bret’s own brand of magic.

ORLYPLEIN 76, BRET.BAR

Tuinen van West are another green expanse, home to more than just nature, cut with cycle routes and community gardens such as Fruittuin van West, where you can indulge in locally grown produce. But culture is never far away either. Buzzy Bret and Radion host a roster of high-octane parties, while the Van Eesteren Museum documents the neighbourhood’s evolution and Meervaart Theatre is home to grassroots dance, cabaret and much more.

‘We usually stroll around Plein ’40-’45 to our favourite place: Halal Fried Chicken. Their chicken is unbeatable, but they also do the best ice coffee.’

Shahina (18), psychology student, and Sunehra (27), teacher at ROC

INSIDER TIP

©

LISA VAN ZELM

© AMIE GALBRAITH

TheehuisDe Akermolen is a popular stop-by for cyclists and walkers searching for a pick-me-up. While the usual co ees and snacks are on the menu, it also serves a grand high tea.

ZWARTE PAD 30, DEAKERMOLEN.NL

Street Art Museum

Established nearly a decade ago as a community-based eco-museum, this space uses street art as a tool for dialogue between locals and visitors. Dotted among the urban sprawl, discover a collection of more than 300 artworks, from tiny gra ti pieces to monumental murals. Walking tours are guided by a researcher and can be booked online. Alternatively, download the GPS-guided map and explore on your own.

IMMANUEL KANTHOF 1 STREETARTMUSEUMAMSTERDAM.COM

Sabreen Mia

Shop a wide range of luxurious Islamic fashion and modest urban chic at this new women’s fashion boutique. The brand, which calls itself a ‘celebration of individuality, creativity and timeless style’ o ers designs that ‘breathe re nement and elegance’ in an understatedly stylish environment.

NEIGHBOURHOOD SHOPPING AREA

Osdorpplein

There’s a diverse range of more than 150 shops at this outdoor shopping centre: from Islamic gifts, books and decorations at Hadiethshop to Moroccan patisserie at Boulangerie Marrakech and modest fashion at La Femme Collectie. Or get shopping at chain stores TK Maxx, Hema or H&M. It's all there.

1800 Roeden + Cantina

The buildings at this defence ammunition park turned cultural hub are a haven for artists and wild nature. Stop by Cantina café for a bite on the sun-drenched terrace.

JORIS VAN DEN BERGHWEG 101-113 DE1800ROEDEN.NL

© WANDERLUST.NL

© GIAMPIERO MAIETTI

OSDORPPLEIN 991, SABREEN-MIA.NL

© ALANIZ, MOUNTAIN OF CALM

As Oost expands, new ventures are helping cement its community and culture while bringing extra flair to this part of town.

Indie Flair

Cut by the Amstel and the River IJ, Oost hems in a sea of new restaurants and cultural strongholds, led by a young and energised population. Beginning in Old Oost, where Amsterdam’s oldest park, Oosterpark, plays host to tranquil scenes of city life, as adjacent Linnaeusstraat thrums with life. Head south to Oostpoort for shops, fitness and restaurants, such as The Cottage for British roast dinners, or head further west along the Ringdijk canal to waterside La Vallade

Shop toys, clothes and accessories for kids (ages 0-10), such as Oli&Carol’s adorable lemon teether (€23.90), at Blitskikker.

JAVASTRAAT 117, BLITSKIKKERAMSTERDAM.NL

for Provençal food. Beyond this watery border, you’ll encounter the sleepy, village-like Watergraafsmeer with its tree-lined avenues, while Park Frankendael and Michelin-starred De Kas linger to the southwest. To the east of Oosterpark is Dappermarkt, one of the city’s best street markets, and the thronging Javastraat is the place to find incredible Middle Eastern snack bars and design stores. Then veer north towards the Oostelijke Eilanden, where Krux Brewery and restaurant Oceean have landed.

For more information on Amsterdam Oost, check out the Neighbourhood Guide on our website: iamsterdam.com/ neighbourhoods

Flevopark

FLEVOPARK.NL

A contender for Amsterdam’s best park but one of its most overlooked, Flevopark excels in its ever-so-slight anonymity. First thought up as a way to ll the space between the Jewish Cemetery and the Nieuwe Diep Lake, Flevopark is now a fully- edged city park, though it still has a wonderfully wild feel to it. Home to the outdoor Flevoparkbad pool, the genever-producing ‘t Nieuwe Diep Distillery and a co ee vendor on wheels, this remains one of Oost’s best-kept secrets.

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Minimal decor and a thoughtful wine list combine to lasting e ect at the Bottleshop Amsterdam wine bar. With its rotating roster of chefs, the upstairs Chef Counter restaurant is a bonus.

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BOTTLESHOPAMS.NL

De Vergulden Eenhoorn

Few restaurants can compete with this Oost favourite when it comes to names.

Dutch for ‘The Gilded Unicorn’, this hotel, restaurant and local hangout has been around since 1702 when it was a farm. Things have changed since then, though much of its warmth remains.

Maybe it’s the exposed beam interior, maybe it’s the open replace or maybe it’s the festoon-light-adorned garden complete with a dedicated boules area.

Whatever it is, De Vergulden Eenhoorn has it.

RINGDIJK 58 VERGULDENEENHOORN.NL

Resistance Museum

Perched opposite Artis zoo, this is where you’ll uncover the storied history and the di cult choices the Dutch had to make during the days of Nazi occupation, all told through hundreds of personal stories and rotating exhibitions. Nominated for European Museum of the Year Award 2024, a visit here is both informative and moving.

PLANTAGE KERKLAAN 61, VERZETSMUSEUM.ORG

Javastraat

Gentri cation has set in, yet this street named after one of the Netherlands’ former Spice Islands remains a compelling melting pot. Highlights include co ee bar/boutique Hartje Oost, plant paradise De Balkonie, Middle Eastern deli Tigris & Eufraat, streetwear store DIV. Amsterdam and cake shop Majesteit Taart

L’Abeille Pastry Shop

The owner of this buzzy bakery, Laura Vervoort, earned her stripes as a pastry chef in Michelin-starred establishments. This is the place to indulge in buttery sugar-crusted cinnamon rolls, sinful strawberry-vanilla eclairs, the lightest salted caramel choux, the lushest lled square croissants and Vervoort’s signature chocolate-sea salt cookies. DAPPERSTRAAT 7, LABEILLEPASTRY.COM

INSIDER TIP

‘At Bar Joost, I always find something that I didn’t know I needed. That one conversation, meeting a new person… It’s a small pub with a great selection of local beers and ciders .’

Sheeyla (28), director

© KOEN SMILDE

© LISA VAN ZELM

HIPPEST SHOPPING STREET

| RAW REINVENTION

Noord Northern Might

Street art, microbreweries and underground venues, Noord may just be across the river from Amsterdam Central station, but it’s a world of its own.

Noord is booming. Climb aboard the (free) ferry at Amsterdam Central station and head west towards NDSM, a former shipyard turned artistic hotspot, where cultural bounties await, from the colourful Straat Museum to buzzy waterside Pllek. Head deeper north for old favourites and new haunts. Along Van der Pekstraat, you’ll find classic local spots such as Il Pecorino pizzeria and Café Modern at one end and seafood institution Royalvis & Traiteur at the other. Not far away, eco-conscious and waterside Café

de Ceuvel has led a cultural boom in a nearby industrial strip, with Cornerstore vinyl bar and pizza-pasta place Klaproos a few of the names that have popped up. Head east to Nieuwendammerham for alternative bars and restaurants that have a little grit. Oedipus Brewery, club Garage Noord and taco eatery Coba are long-time staples now, while Lowlander Botanical Bar & Restaurant or urban farm and café De VerbroederIJ provide the perfect pit-stop before a cycle along the scenic village lanes of Waterland

Walhalla Brewery

Nieuwendammerham’s strip of industrial buildings has undergone a renaissance in recent years, led by small-scale ventures. Walhalla is one of those, a microbrewery and tasting room that punches way above its weight. Like its name, the beer takes some Norse and godly inspiration, too: sip on a Loki Golden IPA or a punchy Zeus Double IPA in the makeshift wooden hall or out on their terrace.

SPIJKERKADE 10, WALHALLACRAFTBEER.NL

For those moments when you simply have to swear in ceramic (€19.95) at Kost & Inwoning Concept Store

VAN DER PEKSTRAAT 120 KOSTENINWONING.NL

NXT Museum

The rst exhibition space in the Netherlands dedicated entirely to new media art, NXT Museum is all about innovation. Here, you’re as likely to nd immersive audio-visual projections as experiential, story-driven pieces. Curated by creatives and visual artists from around the world, all working at the cutting edge of art and technology, this cavernous industrial space is a glimpse of the future. ASTERWEG 22, NXTMUSEUM.COM

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Art City NDSM

Art has become synonymous with Noord, partly due to initiatives such as Art City NDSM. A hub for urban energy and creative output, it’s a cultural and artistic breeding ground ( broedplaats in Dutch) hosting around 80 workspaces and studios for roughly 250 artists and craftspeople. Keep an eye out for everything from open-studio days, photography fairs and fashion shows to dance performances, parties and markets.

NDSM-PLEIN 83, ARTCITYNDSM.NL

A micropub with an expansive beer list and eclectic decor, Bar Pekky is a cosy, o beat spot for gig and comedy nights with the Noord crowd

VAN DER PEKSTRAAT 93 BAR-PEKKY.NL

Treasure Depot

With an ever-changing collection, which could include anything from Art Deco wall lamps, 1940s cocktail shakers, 1950s tea sets and 1960s West German vases to 1970s Dior sunglasses and authentic 1980s earrings, it’s hard to leave this vintage goldmine empty-handed.

VAN DER PEKSTRAAT 107 TREASUREDEPOT.NL

Barracuda

The clue is in the name of this seafood hideout, where sh is very much on the menu. Housed in cavernous surroundings, you’ll nd dishes such as paprika-spiced octopus salad, sardines a la plancha and oven-baked angler sh with white wine and garlic. The easy part is the eating – the hard part is staying away the next day.

MOST POPULAR SHOPPING CENTRE

Boven ‘t Y

Shop where the locals go: at this large shopping centre on Buikslotermeerplein. Here, you’ll nd nail, hair and waxing salons such as Beautifeel, Lotus Nails and Barbie Beauty, bookstores, fashion boutiques and the usual (Dutch) chain stores, restaurants and fast food outlets. Tip: on Saturday mornings and Sundays, you can park for free.

INSIDER TIP

‘When my friends can’t find me, I’ll probably be at Café Keppler in the Pekbuurt. They serve delicious coffee from their own roasted beans.’

Noen

(27), lmmaker

AAMBEELDSTRAAT 10, BARRACUDA.AMSTERDAM

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@ MOKUMISTA

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Down by the Water

Amsterdam is defined by its relationship to water. The aptly named Waterland region, just outside of urban Noord, with its hidden villages, meadows and winding canals, makes for a gorgeous day out cycling.

Durgerdam

Begin your route at Zamenhofstraat (best reached by ferry from Oost) and cycle east to serene Durgerdam. Dotted with inlets to stop by and dip your toes in the water, glide through this quiet village that feels a world away from the bustle of the city centre, even if it’s only 20 minutes.

De Mark

Lauded and lovely, restaurant De Mark has cut a commanding gure in the restaurant scene by pure word-of-mouth. Homely, stylish and complete with a

seasonal menu, this Michelinchef-designed menu is a necessary lunchtime stop on your journey.

DURGERDAMMERDIJK 73 RESTAURANTDEMARK.COM

Ransdorp

With traditional wooden houses and classic canal bridges, Ransdorp is a picture of Old Holland at its most bucolic. Though bizarrely, it’s also been the setting for a surprising number of international reality TV shows. Expect the cameras to be far away when you visit, instead there’s just stillness and charm.

Hello, I’m A’DAM - a tower of many talents. A place where you can eat, work, rave, sleep. Repeat. 24/7, all under one roof. Ready to discover some of my stories?

A’DAM LOOKOUT | 20th & 21st floor

Looking for the ultimate high? Visit my observation deck on top of the A’DAM Tower and enjoy my unrivaled panoramic view of Amsterdam, from the city center and its canals to the countryside.

‘Over the Edge’ Europe’s Highest Swing 21st floor

For the daredevils and thrill seekers among us, I have this famous swing that dangles at 100 meters above the ground. Swing back and forth over the edge of the A’DAM Tower with Amsterdam under your feet!

Restaurant & Sky Bar Madam | 20th floor

During the day, the Panorama Restaurant is part of A’DAM LOOKOUT. But as soon as the sun goes down, the music goes up – and the Panorama Restaurant transforms into Restaurant & Sky Bar Madam: Amsterdam’s highest sky bar for casual dining and the best cocktails in town.

Revolving Restaurant Moon | 19th floor

Making a full rotation per hour, Restaurant Moon provides a truly unique gastronomic experience. Let us take you on a fascinating journey through flavors and aromas combined with a fantastic 360 panorama view of Amsterdam.

Shelter | Basement

My underground nightclub is located in the basement of the A’DAM Tower. Known for its Funktion-One sound system and high-tech LED-panel ceilings. Shelter’s iconic hatch is open every Friday and Saturday night from 23 till 6 am.

A’DAM VR | Basement

Descend into the underground A’DAM VR Game & Race Park and discover a world of boundless imagination filled with the most exclusive thrill-seeking simulation rides, sensational free-roaming shooters and exhilarating escape rooms.

Find playful decor items such as this head side table (€550) at the agship store of the quirky Dutch design brand Polspotten

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Secret Streets

The capital’s centre has seen it all, but its lasting charm lies in the parts that still remain unseen after all this time.

Amsterdam’s centre is like and unlike other capitals – while it draws most visitors to its historic heart, it still retains the magic so many other cities have lost over the years. The enduring romance of the Canal Ring glinting in the summer light and peppered with boats is a picture that never gets old, while the Jordaan’s gabled canal houses and an endless array of cosy bars is a slice of the Amsterdam so many envision. But look beyond the well-trodden boutique-lined streets of De Negen Straatjes and historic Nieuwmarkt ’s main avenues for so much more to discover. Wander along the grand Singel canal and veer onto the Raamsteeg side alley, home to the cavernous Gollem beer bar, which has a wonderfully cosy feel all year round. Or head eastwards to Artis and Hortus Botanicus, strolling through the leafy De Plantage enclave down to Kriterion, an independent and student-run cinema. And if you end up on palatial Dam Square, duck down the picturesque side streets such as Sint Nicolaasstraat dotted with secret shops and restaurants that are a sliver of quiet towards the canals.

Calisto

Dark woods, warm lighting and olive trees combine at this wine bar and restaurant on Haarlemmerdijk. Stop by for a small plate, such as focaccia with anchovies or aubergine croquettes, paired with low-intervention wines from Italy, France and beyond. A glass will do, but a bottle is best.

HAARLEMMERDIJK 61, CALISTOAMSTERDAM.NL

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SAMIRA KAFALA

For those after a little retro and plant-based avour in the Jordaan, grab a Danish pastry at Saint Jean bakery, a dreamy corner spot to start your day.

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SAINTJEAN.NL

Spolia

Noordermarkt

Few markets have the history and endurance of Noordermarkt. What began 400 years ago as a typical merchants’ market is now one of Amsterdam’s most international and diverse, where you’ll nd anything from antiques and textiles to organic produce and art. Loomed over by the imposing Noorderkerk, stroll around here on a Monday or Saturday for a slice of local life.

MONDAY 9AM-1PM + SATURDAY 9AM-4PM

Ritman Library

The Ritman Library, housed within the Embassy of the Free Mind Museum, is like no other. For the spiritually inclined, this 2,000-strong-andcounting collection of books and manuscripts is one of Europe’s foremost hubs for alchemy and phenomena. Lose yourself in the reading rooms as you contemplate what it means to be free.

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EMBASSYOFTHEFREEMIND.COM

The oldest photography museum in Amsterdam, Huis Marseille remains one of the city’s best-loved institutions. In Spolia, the exhibition running this spring, artist Lisa Oppenheim focuses on looted art, speci cally artworks and objects that are most likely missing or destroyed.

16 MARCH-16 JUNE, HUISMARSEILLE.NL

Hazenstraat

Close to De Negen Straatjes (Nine Streets) but not as famous, you’ll nd an eclectic selection of stores here. Think: (natural) wine shops, bakeries and delis including Chenin Chenin and Olivaria; boutiques like Haas and Tenue De Nîmes Shoe Store; and galleries such as Wouter van Leeuwen, LanGart and Caroline

O’Breen

‘Bickersgracht’s De Dierencapel petting zoo offers a green escape. And I meet friends for drinks at Café De Dokter, or ‘het Doktertje’, the smallest pub in Amsterdam.’

Anke (27), De Krakeling staff

NOORDERMARKT-AMSTERDAM.NL

THE 10TH STREET

INSIDER TIP

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© STILL LIFE WITH TULIP, LISA OPPENHEIM

Zuid

72 | CULTURE KIDS

Famously luxurious and effortlessly picturesque, Zuid’s growing cultural scene makes it so much more than just a pretty face.

Heart in South

Stroll through Zuid, and you’re never far from something grand. Museumplein has long been the neighbourhood’s cultural heart – home to Rijksmuseum, Van Gogh Museum, Stedelijk Museum and The Concertgebouw – while villa-lined Vondelpark provides a lap of green and luxury for those in need of respite from the buzz of the city. But Zuid is expansive. The once working-class, now cosmopolitan quarter De Pijp is teeming with bars, cafés and

cultural centres, such as those on indie-feeling Tolstraat, that look to inject a little alternative spirit into the neighbourhood. Compact but classy Sarphatipark and family-friendly Amstelpark are pretty alternatives for those looking beyond Vondelpark. Refined Willemspark neighbourhood is the place for boutiques and brunches – like at snug Juliette – while the Museum Quarter next to it isn’t short of polished places to dine either, from chic Café Garçon to Georgian Batoni Khinkali

Tolstraat

Tolstraat is alive with the arts. For emerging bands, try Cinetol (Tolstraat 182, cinetol.nl, a cultural centre with a great little bar attached to it. Visual art centre De Appel (Tolstraat 160, ccamstel.nl) recently moved to Tempel, a multidisciplinary arts collective where you’ll nd a bit of everything. Theatre bu s with a penchant for small productions can head across to CC Amstel (Cullinanplein 1, ccamstel.nl), the neighbourhood theatre.

A summer destination for Amsterdammers, Vondelpark

Open AirTheatre hosts all expressions of the stage, backed by the stately trees of Vondelpark.

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OPENLUCHTTHEATER.NL

Phenomena Beauty & Health Spa

This sleek 250m2 beauty & health spa o ers a full range of services, from hair, body and facial treatments (including OxyJet, HydraFacials and Icoone Med) to pedicures and injectables using brands such as Valmont, SkinCeuticals, Zo Skin Health, Thalgo, Elemis, Balmain and Oribe. The Nuvola spa, an innovative anti-gravity ‘dry oating’ bath, can be booked with a massage for a deeply relaxing experience (from €150).

LASSUSSTRAAT 2C, PHENOMENAMAISON.COM

Discover why local Gen Zs are obsessed with this heritage brand’s Le Pliage (€125 at Longchamp Store Amsterdam

Museum De Dageraad

A social housing complex turned museum, Museum De Dageraad has been around since the 1920s and is one of the purest forms of Amsterdam School, an architecture style prevalent in this part of De Pijp. Get a glimpse of the Cooperatiehof and the complex’ own bell tower on a guided walking tour before grabbing a co ee at cute retro Ko e & Katoen.

BURGEMEESTER TELLEGENSTRAAT 128, HETSCHIP.NL/DE-DAGERAAD

Hakata Senpachi

For classic izakaya-style eating and a little slice of old Japan, try Hakata Senpachi. A stone’s throw from RAI Amsterdam, retreat from the crowds to here, where skewered and seared meats are the stars of the menu. There’s ramen too – in miso, shoya and tonkotsu style – and plenty to drink; be sure to try the umeshu (Japanese plum wine).

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HAKATASENPACHI.COM

SHOWIEST SHOPPING STREET

P.C. Hooftstraat

If you’re looking to ash that cash, strut down the city’s most famous shopping street where you’ll spot the likes of Loewe, Longchamp and Louis Vuitton as well as a treasure trove of jewellery boutiques such as Ti any & Co, Schaap en Citroen, Gassan, IWC Scha hausen, Cartier and Chopard

De Nada

Joining the league of vinyl bars popping up in Amsterdam, De Nada music and wine bar is in oldworld Rivierenbuurt. Sip on their list of natural wines (and beers for those partial) while tucking into small plates and charcuterie as genre-spanning records play in the background. This is the spot for those seeking atmosphere and ambience.

UITERWAARDENSTRAAT 99 DENADA.AMSTERDAM

INSIDER TIP

‘For the best vegan cheese, we go to Yerba. They make their own vegan cheese from cashew nuts. For coffee with croissants, we love French bakery Et Claire. Their cinnamon buns are so good!’

Bryan (26) and Caigue (29), students

© LISA VAN ZELM

Modern

metropolis

Zuidoost is shedding its skin as an events hub and is transforming into a destination in its own right.

Life in Motion

If you’ve visited Amsterdam for a concert, chances are you’ve been to Zuidoost. The Ziggo Dome and AFAS Live are titans of the entertainment scene and have made Zuidoost a major draw for large-scale events. But look beyond the arenas, and you’ll find a tightknit community and a host of parks that have flourished alongside the industry. Home to the kaleidoscopic Kwaku Summer Festival in July and August, Nelson Mandela Park

is at the neighbourhood’s centre, while easterly Gaasperpark is a serene, lakeside destination that feels a world away from the city centre. For more bustle, Amsterdamse Poort is teeming with shops and cultural spaces, including the Bijlmerbios Film House and ZOJazz Stage. Plus: this is the area for West African and Surinamese cuisine, so don’t overlook African Kitchen and its focus on Nigerian dishes or neighbourhood institution Wenbo for Surinamese dishes.

Johan Cruijff Arena

A trip to Zuidoost wouldn’t be complete without mentioning the home of AFC Ajax, Amsterdam’s biggest football club. As much a stadium as a venue, its 55,000-strong capacity makes it the spot for big games and concerts. Head here for a match and a stadium tour, or combine it with a stop at the Ajax Museum to discover the club’s illustrious history.

JOHAN CRUIJFF BOULEVARD 1, JOHANCRUIJFFARENA.NL

INSIDER TIP

‘I love to wander around Amsterdamse Poort, where there’s always a good vibe. I clear my head, meet friends or have Chinese rice noodles with crispy chicken at Kam Yin. The best!’

Marion (55), radio and theatre producer

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© LISA

VAN ZELM

Shop inclusive toys and dolls in every skin tone at Maritoys (€29.95, as pictured).

REIGERSBOS 90B, MARITOYS.NL

POPULAR SHOPPING AREA

Reigersbos

In addition to butchers, shmongers and bakers and the usual suspects, such as bookstore Bruna, drugstore Kruidvat and liquor store Gall & Gall, you’ll nd outlet stores such as Gideon Italiaander, as well as sweets at Pitto and African groceries at Junior Afro Shop. Tip: parking is free, and there are regular festivals and events.

Kleiburg Brewery

Based on the site of a former abbey, this brewery makes beers according to age-old monastic traditions. It’s also a social enterprise in which a portion of the pro ts go directly back into the monastery’s activities for the good of the people. Enjoy a brew on the terrace or head into De Proefzaak, the tasting room located in a spacious hangar.

HULLENBERGWEG 6, KLEIBURG.NL

Diemerbos

A forest that was only planted in the 1990s, Diemerbos might be young, but its green expanse makes it a welcome getaway for Amsterdammers in the east. Moody, rugged and atmospheric, the woodland is di erent from the city’s other parks, lled with marshland and hazel and rowan trees, and is an excellent bird-watching spot. Stroll through or around it before you stop by Bird Brewery’s tasting room, House of Bird, for speciality beers.

DIEMERBOSPAD 1A HOUSEOFBIRD.NL

ArtFusion Gallery

Located on the rst oor of the Villa Arena Shopping Centre, you’ll nd a good selection of ne art, ceramics and sculpture by more than 60 local artists at this 850m2 gallery. With prices from €85 for a giclee print of Amsterdam’s famous footballer, the late Johan Cruij (42 × 33 cm) to €7,900 for an acrylic painting of a gnarled tree trunk, there’s something for every art lover.

JOHAN CRUIJFF BOULEVARD 58, ARTFUSION.NL

Day Trips

Discover the Amsterdam Area

BY: VERITY SEWARD

80 Castles & Gardens

86 Amsterdam Beach

88 Weesp

89 New Land

90 Haarlem

91 Old Holland

92 Flowers

Summer Lights

Find out more about day trips and the region at: iamsterdam. com/area

An artificial island fort, Pampus once served as part of the Defence Line of Amsterdam and as a port for traders. These days, however, it’s a getaway for intrepid day-trippers. Pampus’ Summer Lights capitalises on this, inviting visitors for a boat ride to the island (departing from lakeside Muiden or Amsterdam IJburg) followed by a delicious picnic dinner and sweeping sunset views across the water. For an optional sprinkle of summer magic and a memorable overnight stay on the island, end the night in one of the custom tents, complete with mattresses and linen.

19 JULY-31 AUGUST, PAMPUS.NL

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Castles & Gardens

Old-school thrills and shows feature at traditional amusement park Oud Valkeveen. Ride a rollercoaster before stopping by the park’s own pancake house.

OUDVALKEVEEN.NL

Stories of Old

Moated castles, time-worn forts and grand estates await downriver, where visitors can dip their toes into aristocratic life by the water.

Follow the Amstel River by boat or bike in spring and summer, and you’ll pass into some spectacular countryside where 17th-century estates built by wealthy merchants line the banks. This lush green region is dotted with beautifully preserved towns and hidden villages, such as the 12th-century Ouderkerk aan de Amstel, which o ers scenic spots for waterside dining and is a perfect gateway to the Netherlands’ second greenest city: Amstelveen. Elsewhere in the region, country houses

such as Sypesteyn Castle Museum boast period rooms, quaint tea rooms and exquisitely manicured gardens. Meanwhile, fortified towns such as Muiden and Naarden are fantastic for exploring the Defence Line of Amsterdam, a Unesco-listed ring of fortifications around the Dutch capital. Nature is lavish in the region, particularly around the Westeinder and Loosdrechtse leisure lakes dotted with tiny islands teeming with wildlife, picturesque beaches and opportunities for water sports.

Hilversum

Situated in the heart of the Castles & Gardens region, Hilversum is a thriving cultural centre, now celebrating its 600th anniversary. Also known as the ‘Media City’ of the Netherlands, this vibrant city offers architectural surprises, concept stores, artisanal bakeries and impressive museums dedicated to media and contemporary photography, including the Beeld & Geluid Museum (Institute of Sound and Vision) and Museum Hilversum. It is also the only city in the country to be developed as a large-scale garden city. You’ll find green is in abundance here, from the Pinetum Blijdenstein botanical gardens to the neighbouring Coversbos, the beech-tree-lined national forest.

VISITGOOIVECHT.COM/HILVERSUM

Wonderfeel Festival

Classic festival meets classical music in this three-day summertime music event on the stately grounds of Schaep en Burgh nature reserve. Each tent caters to a different theme, with six centuries of musical history on show, from Mozart all the way up to jazz fusion.

19-21 JULY, WONDERFEEL.NL

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Castles & Gardens

Café Ome Ko

A living room atmosphere and nautical theme make ‘brown bar’ Ome Ko, with sizeable sandwiches and mugs of beer, a great stop on your way to Muiderslot Castle.  OMEKOMUIDEN.NL

Muiderslot Castle

A meandering bike ride east of Amsterdam will land you in tranquil Muiden, home to the 13th-century Muiderslot Castle. One of the Netherlands’ bestknown strongholds, Muiderslot is open for tours where you can wander through its beautifully restored interior and gardens, including the beech-tree alley. For the kids, medieval times are revived in the summer, with afternoons filled with jousting, archery and music.

MUIDERSLOT.NL

Find out more about day trips to Castles & Gardens on iamsterdam. com/castles

Ouderkerk aan de Amstel

Wedged between the bustle of Zuidoost and Amstelveen is the riverside village of Ouderkerk aan de Amstel, known for its quaint bridges, ancient churches and the country’s oldest Jewish cemetery, Beth Haim. It’s a beloved retreat for countryside-seeking Amsterdammers and cyclists, who head to its waterfront restaurants, like fine-dining Saam, Mediterranean-inspired Heisa and brewpub with church views Kek!.

SAAMRESTAURANT.NL, CAFERESTAURANTHEISA.NL, KEK-BIER.NL

The Dutch Fortress Museum

In a region teeming with fortifications, the Dutch Fortress Museum is a must for those interested in the history of the Netherlands’ defensive might. A fortress itself, it took almost two centuries to design and build. Based in the city of Naarden, explore the grounds, green ramparts and underground passages. And be sure to stop by on the third Sunday of any month for Gunners’ Day, where the more-than-200-year-old cannons are fired.

VESTINGMUSEUM.NL

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INSIDER’S VIEW

‘There are so many things I enjoy about life in the Netherlands, and I love seeking out underrated corners of this small country I call home, so stumbling upon the Castles & Gardens region was a pleasant surprise. Here you will find charming towns, stunning castles and, in springtime, vibrant fl owers and, of course, friends and families soaking up the sunshine on a boat ride through the waters. I spent my time eating my way through villages such as Breukelen, trying Flora Batava, and Vreeland, where my personal favourite restaurant in the area is located: Restaurant Hendrix. I used the Van Der Valk Hotel Breukelen as a base for branching out and exploring the area by bike. From there, I was able to reach Loenersloot Castle, Loosdrechtse Lakes and the windmills in the countryside. Loved it!’

SARA RANDALL

SARA

RANDALL , @SARAINTHENETHERLANDS

How to get there

Hilversum: Take the train from Amsterdam Central to Hilversum (20 minutes)

Muiderslot: Take the train from Amsterdam Central to Hilversum, transfer to bus 110 to Muiden Centrum. From there, it’s a 10-minute walk to Castle Muiderslot (60 minutes)

Ouderkerk aan de Amstel: Take the train or bus to Amsterdam Bijlmer ArenA, transfer to bus 300 to Ouderkerk aan de Amstel (40 minutes). Or cycle there: it’s a scenic route along the Amstel that takes about 40 minutes

Laren: Take the train from Amsterdam Central to Naarden-Bussum, transfer to bus 109 to Laren (60 minutes)

In collaboration with Singer Laren Museum

This summer, visit Breitner, dedicated to George Hendrik Breitner, one of the most significant and celebrated Dutch artists of the 19th century.

Breitner

Agorgeous glass-fronted modernist museum with an impressive calendar of exhibitions, a serene sculpture garden and a café, Singer Laren is always worth a trip. This summer, visit Breitner, dedicated to George Hendrik Breitner, one of the most significant and celebrated Dutch artists of the 19th century. Nicknamed the ‘Painter of Amsterdam’ for his focus on urban subjects, this showcase exhibition features more than 70 works, from fan favourites to lesser-known gems. Curated by historian Suzanne Veldink, the selection leaves viewers with a new perspective on Breitner and his eccentric use of colour and lines, and a reminder that he still remains one of the Netherlands’ greatest artists.

15 MAY-8 SEPTEMBER, SINGERLAREN.NL

© G.H. BREITNER, ANNA (GIRL IN RED KIMONO), 1893-1894, PRIVATE COLLECTION, PHOTO: GERT-JAN VAN ROOIJ

© G.H. BREITNER,

LYING NUDE, 1889, MUSEUM BOIJMANS VAN BEUNINGEN

Hop aboard the historical electric Museum Tram from Haarlemmermeer station to Amstelveen for a nostalgic adventure (every Sunday from April to October).

MUSEUMTRAMLIJN.ORG

Castles & Gardens

Green in Amstelveen

Explore Amstelveen on a walking route guiding you through green spaces celebrating nature, remnants of the area’s living history and blossoming modern art.

Hortus Botanicus

Vrije Universiteit

Wander through the Zuidas botanical garden – an oasis of calm with century-old trees and a greenhouse holding a vast collection of cacti and succulents. Entry is free so that everyone can enjoy all the hidden corners, including a miniature Chinese landscape garden and Bonsai display.

BOTANISCHETUINZUIDAS.NL

De Braak Park

This national monument park, designed by Chris Broerse, is famous for its natural land-

scaping using wild native plants that are now rare in the Netherlands. Stroll along the ‘floating’ path to the nursery gardens and reedlands typical of the Dutch polder landscape.

Stadshart

Amstelveen

Getting hungry along the way?

The indoor shopping centre Stadshart Amstelveen has plenty of bars and restaurants to sate your appetite.

Museum Jan

Discover mesmerising glass art collected by founder Jan van

der Togt alongside contemporary art exhibitions such as Lisa Konno: The Porcelain Body, with its combination of Japanese porcelain and textiles, and Tjalf Sparnaay: The Bigger Picture, a celebration of the Dutch artist’s hyperrealistic food paintings (both until 16 June).

MUSEUMJAN.NL

Dr J. P. Thijssepark

Wander into Dr J. P. Thijssepark, a wilderness sanctuary in urban Amstelveen. Here, the weaving pathways create romantic ‘garden rooms’ filled

with woodland vegetation, water and rare plants. The walking route of both parks spans 3 km and takes approximately 1.5 hours.

Molen De Dikkert

Further down Amsterdamseweg is De Dikkert – a former working windmill dating all the way back to 1672. Following several refurbishments over the centuries, it has now been converted to house fine-dining restaurant De Jonge Dikkert, known for its seasonal menus and wine pairings.

JONGEDIKKERT.NL

© MONIQUE WIJBRANDS

Hortus Botanicus

Amsterdam Beach

Find out more about day trips to Amsterdam Beach on iamsterdam.com/ beach

Dune Coast

Salt-tinged and sublime, the coastline around Amsterdam is dotted with sand dunes, islands and unblemished views.

Whether you’re looking for adventure, adrenaline activities, a sloping walk in the dunes or impressive wildlife, you’ll find it all on the Dutch coast. Come summer, sunseekers bask on the golden beaches or visit the hip restaurants and beach clubs of Bloemendaal and Zandvoort. Alternatively, IJmuiden is characterised by its rugged beauty and colourful harbours – whilst the North Sea wind makes this spot a haven for windand watersports fans. Hidden WWII bunkers along the sand

and impressive historical sites such as Forteiland IJmuiden form part of the Unesco-listed Defence Line of Amsterdam Behind the beaches, you’ll find bustling towns such as Heemskerk and the Dutch Dunes with ample opportunities for cycling, hiking and wildlife spotting – particularly in the Zuid-Kennemerland National Park and Noordhollands Duinreservaat (North Holland Dune Reserve). Impressive country estates such as Duin & Kruidberg can be found adjacent to the park and are well worth exploring for an overnight stay.

Zandvoort

Many an Amsterdammer’s coastal retreat in the summer, Zandvoort is for those who want beach and buzz. With a number of beach clubs dotted along the long sandy strip, there’s plenty of choice for lounging out on the deckchairs while you sip on a drink. For those seeking more adventure, try your hand at water sports or make your way to Circuit Zandvoort, the home of Dutch motor racing.

VISITZANDVOORT.NL

Striped parasols and a Mediterranean menu make Tent 6 a Zandvoort beach club that’s both restful and restorative – the on-site yoga and massages don’t hurt either.

Kunstfort Vijfhuizen

Once a fort, now a contemporary centre for art, Kunstfort Vijfhuizen is another example of the Defence Line of Amsterdam, the 135-km ring of defensive structures that protected the city that now has Unesco-heritage status. Home to curated exhibitions, a restaurant and gardens that produce artisanal honey, this water-ringed museum makes for a gorgeous afternoon out.

OPEN FROM 15 MARCH, KUNSTFORT.NL

IJmuiden Sea and Harbour Festival

The 19th edition of this sea-faring festival returns for the maritime-minded among us. For two days, the Trawlerkade in IJmuiden becomes a kilometre-long chain of nautical adventures, with boats to explore, emerging street art, music and performance art. Wander past shipping containers transformed into theatres and canvases for ocean-themed murals, before stopping for a snack of local herring, a must while you’re by the sea.

22-23 JUNE

HAVENFESTIVALIJMUIDEN.NL

Assumburg Castle

Ever wanted to spend a night in a castle? Head to the medieval Assumburg Castle in Heemskerk, which doubles as a youth hostel. Complete with grand Baroque gardens that feel a little Alice in Wonderland-esque, spend an afternoon wandering the grounds on a guided tour and stop by The Carriage House for coffee, cake or even fresh juice from the orchard, all before you clamber up to your tower-bound bed.

KASTEELTUINASSUMBURG.NL

How to get there

Zandvoort: Take the train from Amsterdam Central to Zandvoort aan Zee (30 minutes)

IJmuiden: Take bus 382 from Amsterdam

Sloterdijk to Badweg (45 minutes)

Heemskerk: Take the train from Amsterdam Central to Heemskerk (40 minutes)

ERIK

BAALBERGEN

Find out more about the neighbourhood of Weesp at iamsterdam.com/ weesp

Where the River Bends

A 700-year-old fortified town, Weesp and its protected historical city centre is a honeycomb of cosy cafés, soaring church steeples and photogenic drawbridges.

The newest district to be absorbed into Amsterdam, Weesp is technically part of the city but still feels like a lovely day trip. This snug riverside town in the heart of the Vechtstreek is famed for its historical buildings, Van Houten chocolate and genever. One of the Netherlands’ fortress towns, Weesp, has existed since the 14th century and – as you’d expect – features many fortifications and battlements. Its rich architecture includes the spectacular Ossenmarkt and Uitermeer forts, a stunning interwoven canal network cut by seemingly endless amounts of pretty bridges – such as the Groene Brug and Lange Vechtbrug – three historical windmills and several buildings that date back to the 17th and 18th centuries, a time of rapid growth and prosperity. Weesp’s former town hall – a stately, neoclassical building – now houses Museum Weesp, the municipal museum devoted mainly to 18th-century porcelain crafts. Peruse the collections here before stopping for lunch at the bright yet cosy De Eendracht restaurant.

Behind a chic charcoal exterior, an all-day menu of Dutch classics in sizeable portions awaits at CaféDiner ‘t Weesperplein.

Tucked away on an island and nestled behind Weesp’s historical fort, you’ll find the idyllic restaurant Noot. A former ammunition shed turned tea garden and restaurant, the menu here is farm-to-table, meaning most of the produce is grown in the surrounding fields. Studded with gravel paths, leaf-covered archways, rounded bushes and pistachio-coloured cabins, this is the spot for dreamy afternoons in the sun.

OSSENMARKT 34, THEETUIN-NOOT.NL

City of Wesopa

Wandering past the building that houses City of Wesopa, you’ll likely stop for a second look. Far from the gabled canal houses that line most of Weesp’s streets, this towering theatre and cinema is an example of the late Amsterdam School architectural style and stands out because of it. Known as ‘The City’ by locals, it’s home to a diverse and alternative cultural programme, from spiky comedy nights to arthouse movies and even themed events.

HERENGRACHT 23, WESOPA.NL

How to get there

Take the train from Amsterdam Central to Weesp (20 minutes)

© TOON ROOZEN-ENDRES

© PAULINE ARKESTEIJN

Refresh your body and soul at exclusive day spa Thermen La Mer, dreaming away in the Finnish Kelo saunas, swimming pool or hot tub.

THERMENLAMER.NL

Find out more about day trips to New Land on iamsterdam.com/ newland

New Land

De Kemphaan

For an adventurous day out, head to De Kemphaan, close to Almere, where kids will delight in tackling the high ropes and zip lines of Fun Forest Almere or observing the rescued monkeys at Stichting AAP. The unmissable Almere Jungle offers exotic animal surprises, a tropical café and exceptional play areas. This amusing wildlife park, staffed by passionate volunteers, has lashings of humour, imagination and care in how the enclosures are constructed.

KEMPHAAN.NL

Beauty from the Deep

Entirely reclaimed from the sea, the Netherlands’ youngest province is home to innovative architecture and sprawling nature reserves shaped by human hands.

Lying four metres below sea level, Flevoland – the result of a large-scale land reclamation project started in the 1930s – is a province associated with cutting-edge architecture and a sustainable vision. Lelystad and Almere are fast-growing urban centres teeming with recreational activities and cultural hotspots, such as the Kunstlinie and Agora theatres. From exceptional shopping opportunities at Batavia Stad to the mindblowing urban art in Almere, these modern polder cities blend forward-thinking design with futuristic urban planning, all the while embracing the water and nature right on their doorstep. Elsewhere, the region’s watery past is still apparent in its impressive natural landscapes. Unique man-made nature reserves such as Nieuw Land National Park and Marker Wadden provide vast swathes of protected marshlands for migrating birds and ample opportunity for walking, cycling and wildlife tours. Meanwhile, the notto-be-missed Land Art throughout the region is nature combined with art and makes for an ideal day trip. New Land proves that human hands can shape even the wildest natural environments.

Batavialand & Marker Wadden

Embark on a journey spanning 7,000 years of maritime history at Batavialand, a shipyard and museum honouring the Dutch as master shipbuilders. Learn about life at sea, marvel at artefacts and watch demonstrations by skilled craftspeople and carpenters restoring the famous reconstruction of the VOC ship Batavia docked outside. From the dock, take an educational cruise on an antique boat courtesy of MS Waddenzee. You’ll sail towards the Marker Wadden nature reserve to experience how wildlife thrives on these new islands in the Markermeer.

BATAVIALAND.NL, MSWADDENZEE.COM

How to get there

Almere: Take the train from Amsterdam Central to Almere Centrum (20 minutes)

Batavia Stad and Batavialand: Batavia Stad Shopping Shuttle Bus departs daily from Amsterdam River Cruise Port (De Ruijterkade 153), free with your City Card

Nieuw Land National Park: Take the train to Almere Oostvaarders. From there, it’s a 20-minute walk to the visitor centre (60 minutes)

© ELJEE BERGWERFF

© RICHARD TERBORG

Haarlem

Find out more about day trips to Haarlem on iamsterdam.com/ haarlem

Haarlem’s beer history makes a 21st-century appearance in Uiltje Bar, a cosy, owl-themed brewery.

ZIJLSTRAAT 18 UILTJEBREWING.COM

The Art of Drag

The old and the new combine at Frans Hals Museum, and no exhibition showcases that more than The Art of Drag, a celebration of drag and Haarlem’s relationship to it expressed through modern and contemporary art. The local connection dates back to Hartjesdag – a day when men dressed as women and women as men – making this exhibition a fascinating look back and hopeful glance forward.

12 APRIL-13 OCTOBER, FRANSHALSMUSEUM.NL

The River City

Intersected by a river and brought to life

by

culture, Haarlem’s weave of cobblestone streets is alive with charm and history.

Nicknamed the ‘Spaarnestad’ after the river that runs through it, this body of water has long helped define Haarlem as a centre of commerce and culture. Wander past monuments such as Amsterdamse Poort, City Hall and the Grote Kerk (or St Bavokerk), and the city’s rich past reveals itself. Elsewhere, historic buildings have been transformed into trendy hangouts and cultural spaces, such as Jopenkerk, a brewery in a former church, or Patronaat – the iconic gig venue in a former school gymnasium. Haarlem is regularly voted one of the Netherlands’ best places to shop, with vintage boutiques and local craft ateliers lining the Gouden Straatjes. Or take the time to visit some of the country’s finest concert halls, theatres and museums, such as Teylers Museum, the Museum of the Mind| Dolhuys or Frans Hals Museum, showcasing 16th- and 17th-century works from the Haarlem-born painter, which has long given the city the title the ‘Stad van Frans’ (City of Frans).

Bevrijdingspop

This one-day music festival celebrates peace, democracy, and freedom in the Netherlands on Bevrijdingsdag (Liberation Day). Unfolding within Haarlemmerhout, the oldest urban forest in the country, expect a range of musical performances and educational activities across multiple stages, focusing on remembering what has been fought for and what needs to be defended. A thoughtful but fun affair where Haarlem commemorates and celebrates

5 MAY

How to get there

Take the train from Amsterdam Central to Haarlem (15 minutes)

© FERDINAND ERFMANN, DANSCAFE, 1928

Find out more about day trips to Old Holland on iamsterdam.com/ oldholland

Time-Tested Traditions

With its picturesque fishing villages, artisan makers and lush windmill-studded landscapes, discovering Old Holland feels like stepping back in time.

Old Holland showcases the Dutch countryside at its most classic, a place where shipbuilding, clogs, fi shing and cheese-making all play a central role. For a trip back in time, head to Volendam, Monnickendam, Edam and Marken – picturesque fi shing towns on the shores of the Markermeer known for their various regional delicacies. From traditional windmills at Zaanse Schans and repurposed factories, the region is awash with industrial heritage – remnants of a time when smoking chimneys and spinning sails enabled the mass production of goods. Modern-day Zaandam blends old and new, fi nding innovative ways to repurpose and showcase its industrial character. Perhaps the fi rst sign you’ll see of this is when marvelling at the eye-catching facade of the Inntel Hotel Zaandam, a stack of almost 70 individual Zaan houses in the traditional green colour. And then there are the lush green Twiske-Waterland and Beemster nature areas just north of Amsterdam. Dotted with waterside tea rooms, grazing cows and quaint villages, there is ample scenery to enjoy on a bike trip down the winding

Old Holland

Volendam Museum

Now celebrating its 50th year, the Volendam Museum is an unconventional yet charming cultural experience. Get a glimpse of traditional life in the region with various costumes, lifesize dioramas and kitsch interiors, all from 1850 to 1950. The collection includes works by celebrated painters Henricus Rol and Edwin Austin Abbey, and more unusual items such as 19th-century fishing vessels and antique uniforms. One of the museum’s cornerstones is a series of large mosaics which comprises more than 11 million cigar bands.

VOLENDAMSMUSEUM.NL

Fort in Edam

This Unesco-listed fort outside Edam was part of the Defence Line of Amsterdam, a 135 km-long ring of defensive structures that once served to protect the city. It was operational during both World Wars and, at one point, housed 255 soldiers. Roam through the dark passageways, encountering fascinating hands-on exhibits dedicated to military history and local wildlife, or join a guided tour by one of the volunteers who will be eager to answer your burning questions.

FORTBIJEDAM.NL

How to get there

Zaandam and Zaanse Schans: Take the train from Amsterdam Central to Zaandam (two stops further is Zaanse Schans train station) (15 mins)

Fishing villages: Take the bus from Amsterdam Noord metro station to Monnickendam (15 minutes), Edam (20 minutes), Marken (30 minutes) and Volendam (30 minutes)

Pause for freshly baked apple pie in the waterside tea garden Het Weeshuis’ stunning volunteer-run café and crafts atelier.

WEESHUISMONNICKENDAM.NL

© KOEN SMILDE

Find out more about day trips to the Flower region on iamsterdam.com/ flowers

Colours in the Countryside

The world-famous flower strip makes for an ideal day out with heritage monuments, historical gardens, recreational lakes and plenty of cycling routes.

Every spring, the iconic Flower Strip attracts admirers worldwide as millions of eye-popping tulips burst into bloom. One of the biggest attractions is Keukenhof, the world’s most extensive flower gardens, home to more varieties of tulips than you could imagine. Year-round, flower bu s can also pay a visit to Museum De Zwarte Tulp, which examines the region’s horticultural history, the Flower Art Museum and Royal FloraHolland to get a proper grasp of the industrial scale of the region. Or explore numerous garden estates,

such as Keukenhof Castle, De Zuilen and the Historical Garden Aalsmeer, home to quaint tea rooms and various opportunities for a scenic stroll. Elsewhere, the reclaimed polder landscape is dotted with pretty little villages such as Lisse and Hillegom, along with fascinating forts along the Defence Line of Amsterdam and monuments such as the Cruquius pumping station and Aalsmeer Water Tower, which tell the story of the Dutch struggle against water.

Tuck into speciality beers and seafood platters on the lakeside terrace of Papa’s Beach House or rent a paddleboard from the adjacent SUP Club. PAPASHOUSES.COM

Keukenhof

Cruquius Museum

The Cruquius Museum is a fascinating industrial monument housing the 19th-century pumping station used to drain the municipality of Haarlemmermeer centuries ago. Learn about the Dutch struggle against water, marvel at an eye-opening model of how the Netherlands would look without dykes and experience a live

steam engine demonstration. For refreshments, the newly opened Pannenkoeken Paviljoen is located nearby, dishing up traditional Dutch pancakes alongside an extensive lunch and dinner menu, lavish high teas and a broad choice for the little ones.

HAARLEMMERMEERMUSEUM.NL

Historical Garden Aalsmeer

Explore the greenhouses of yesteryear, dotted with gardening tools from a bygone era. The Historical Garden Aalsmeer is home to a vast selection of long-forgotten strains of plants and varieties of fruit. Every last Saturday of the month, from April to September, the auction house hosts a flower and plant auction. Afterwards, perch on the charming waterside terrace at the Tuinhuis or book an organised boat tour by Westeinder Rondvaart. During this one-hour cruise, a knowledgeable skipper will sail you past the sprawling islands of the West-einderplassen that are teeming with history and local wildlife.

HISTORISCHETUINAALSMEER.NL

WESTEINDERRONDVAART.NL

Nowhere is the Dutch cult of the tulip celebrated in a more glorious way than at Keukenhof, ‘the most beautiful spring garden in the world’. With a staggering seven million flowers planted across a 32-hectare park, this spectacle is open for just eight weeks each year in accordance with the flowering season. Opposite the gardens, Keukenhof Castle boasts an impressive history with 17th-century roots, complete with portraits and period furniture. The rest of the estate houses an art museum, café, petting zoo and walking paths.

21 MARCH-12 MAY, KEUKENHOF.NL, KASTEELKEUKENHOF.NL

Olmenhorst

A green oasis of apple and pear orchards, Olmenhorst Estate, is located in the pretty village of Lisserbroek. This historic estate is more than 160 years old and specialises in organic produce. Stroll through its lush orchard, adopt your own apple tree or participate in a scavenger hunt before setting off on various walking and cycling routes around the area. Stop by for a meal or high tea on the terrace of its on-site restaurant, De Fruitloods.

OLMENHORST.NL

How to get there

Keukenhof: Take bus 852 from Amsterdam RAI station to bus stop Keukenhof (35 minutes)

Olmenhorst: Take the train from Amsterdam

Central to Hoofddorp. Transfer to bus 162 and get off at bus stop Bruidsbloemstraat in Lisserbroek (70 minutes)

Cruquius: Take the train from Amsterdam

Central to Haarlem. Transfer to bus 340 and get off at bus stop Cruquius Ringvaartbrug (45 minutes)

© CREATIVEBROS.NL

© KOEN SMILDE

Need to Know

Where to get your information, how to get around and other useful information to make sure your trip to Amsterdam runs smoothly.

I amsterdam City Card

The I amsterdam City Card o ers you a unique way to explore Amsterdam. The City Card gives access to all major highlights and more than 70 museums, city-wide public transport, a canal cruise and bicycle rental. Buy it online at iamsterdam.com/citycard or get more info at the I amsterdam Store at Amsterdam Central station.

In Case of Emergency

If you are a victim

crime, report it to the police (politie.nl). In emergency situations or to report a crime in progress, call 112. For non-emergency situations requiring police assistance or to make an appointment to report a crime in person, call 0900 8844 (if using a mobile phone with an international SIM card, dial +31 343 578 844). For medical emergencies, including telephone consultations and consultations on location, contact your hotel reception or call the tourist doctor on +31 20 427 5011.

Everyday Inspiration

Looking

Store I amsterdam

With a hand-picked selection of quality products from iconic Amsterdam brands, as well as daily tips and advice on the best events and must-see attractions in the city, the I amsterdam Store at Amsterdam Central station is your key to unlocking the very best that Amsterdam has to offer. Plus, this is your go-to stop for information on how to get around.

I AMSTERDAM STORE, AMSTERDAM STATION, IJ-SIDE. CHECK IAMSTERDAM.COM FOR UP-TO-DATE OPENING HOURS

The underground bicycle parking space at Amsterdam Central station has room for more than 7,000 bikes. Want to leave your rental bike behind when travelling around the surrounding region? Then this is the place.

Art is all around in Amsterdam. Find this Delft Blue masterpiece in the tunnel under Central station.

GETTING AROUND: Amsterdam is well-equipped with a public transport network of trains, trams, buses and the metro. You can buy a ticket from ticket offices at the main stations; you can also check in and out with your credit or debit card, or with your smartphone. To plan your journeys once in Amsterdam, visit 9292.nl/en or Google Maps for up-to-the-minute information. Alternatively, hire a bike from one of the many bicycle rental shops, but be warned that using your mobile phone while cycling is illegal.

metro. and

Travel Ticket

Amsterdam & TravelRegionTicket

Discover Amsterdam and the surrounding area with the Amsterdam & Region Travel Ticket – a special public transport card valid on trains, metros, trams and buses operated by NS, GVB, Connexxion and EBS. The Amsterdam & Region Travel Ticket is available for one, two or three calendar days, and is valid on any of the routes listed in the public transport guide to the Amsterdam Area. Tickets can be purchased at the I amsterdam Store, as well as ticket counters of the participating public transport companies. Read all about the area from page 77 onwards.

Public Holidays

Schools, city councils, post offices and banks are closed for the whole day on official public holidays in the Netherlands.

• 29 March: Good Friday is not an official public holiday, but many businesses do close

• 31 March: Easter Sunday is an official public holiday

• 1 April: Easter Monday is an official public holiday

• 27 April: King’s Day is an official public holiday

• 4 May: National Remembrance Day is not an official public holiday, but some government offices close

• 5 May: Liberation Day is not an official public holiday, but some government offices close

• 9 May: Ascension Day is an official public holiday

• 19 May: Pentecost Sunday is an official public holiday

• 20 May: Pentecost Monday is an official public holiday

Before You Leave

BY: DAVE PELHAM, BRYONY RIJKS

‘I discovered a bike route that has it all. If you follow the river out of Amsterdam towards Ouderkerk aan de Amstel, you will pass through meadows, streams and ditches where it’s perfect to stop for a picnic, spot birds and climb trees with your kids.’

Jon Stam (37), interaction designer from Toronto, Canada

‘Our favourite museum is Moco and we’re going back there today to see the Banksy artworks.’

Elisa Signore (20), interior design student, and Gabi Robert (21), graphic design student, both from Paris, France

‘Oud-West is my favourite area to spend time in. The people are friendly and during summer there are lots of places to spend time outside.

Paul Yeh (27), student from London, UK

‘I loved the canals in Amsterdam and there are so many! I did a canal boat tour, which was a lot of fun. I can also really recommend Sea Palace, a floating Chinese restaurant on the water by Amsterdam Central station.’ Denis Gomeg (32), project coordinator from The Gambia

‘You can’t miss visiting Feed Amsterdam, a café-bar that plays an eclectic mix of music through their amazing sound system. They even host their own radio show to give local DJs a chance to be heard, as well as exhibiting artwork from local artists on the walls.’

Phoebe Pryor (29), artist from Woodbridge, UK

editor-in-chief Bart van Oosterhout art director & basic design Yke Bartels, Saskia Franken designer Martijn Blokland deputy editor Karin Thybaut proofreader Julia Gorodecky contributors Barbara van den Berg, Lauren Comiteau, Karin Engelbrecht, Tom Flanagan, Lesia Joukova, Dave Pelham, Bryony Rijks, Verity Seward, Monique Wijbrands, Lisa van Zelm advertising partner@iamsterdam.com or +31 20 702 61 80 want to become a distributor? partner@iamsterdam.com for individual subscriptions visit aboland.com didn’t receive your copy? klantenservice@aboland.nl publisher amsterdam&partners print Flyerman drukwerk ISSN 2589-6717

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Muiderslot

Amsterdam castle

Scan me

Nestled just outside Amsterdam lies Muiderslot , a preserved medieval castle steeped in Dutch history and heritage. As one of the most iconic landmarks in the region, Muiderslot offers visitors a unique glimpse into the past, with its architecture, collection of Dutch art and artifacts, beautiful gardens and UNESCO world heritage ‘De nieuwe Hollandse waterlinie’.

Amsterdam Castle provides a magical and picturesque experience. From guided tours to exhibitions, you can delve into the castle’s illustrious past and explore the Dutch history.

Will you step back in the time with us?