I amsterdam City Guide WINTER SPRING 2022-2023

06

Amsterdam’s Nightlife

WELCOME

With a history of squat parties and acid house raves, Amsterdam has always had that nightlife spark. Find out where it’s happening right now.

13 Your Trip

MAKE THE MOST OF YOUR STAY

Whether you’re in Amsterdam for 12 hours or a full weekend, make the most of every minute with our itineraries.

19 Eat & Drink

WHERE TO INDULGE IN AMSTERDAM

What’s happening in Amsterdam when it comes to dining (and snacking), borrel culture and the best new Michelin-star restaurants.

31 What’s On

WHAT TO SEE AND WHERE TO GO

From world-famous museums and attractions to the best gigs and top-notch theatres, there’s always something to see and do in Amsterdam.

49 City Guide

EXPLORE AMSTERDAM’S NEIGHBOURHOODS

For more information about Amsterdam, visit our website: iamsterdam.com

There’s a new discovery around every corner, from new hip hangouts in upcoming neighbourhoods to hidden gems in the city centre.

81 Day Trips

DISCOVER THE AMSTERDAM AREA Explore beyond the city borders of Amsterdam and discover modern architecture, incredible nature and unmissable experiences.

Amsterdam has always been a city for night owls, its reputation dating back to the 17th century when it was one of Europe’s biggest seaports, and crews from all over the world would turn to the Burgwallen in the heart of the city for entertainment after months at sea. Fastforward to the 1990s, and we saw Amsterdam become a global centre for house music and the culture that came with it, with legendary clubs such as RoXY and iT hosting wild raves that went on for days, 24 hours non-stop. A legacy of those heydays is still found in the Amsterdam Dance Event, the world’s largest club-based festival that draws more than 400,000 dance lovers every October to over 1,000 gigs in 200 locations spread across town. After October, things quieten down, but not by much. Ever since the city council stated that nightlife is an important part of culture that is worth protecting, and new licences for all-night opening have been granted, new clubs have sprung up, most of them outside the crowded centre, in upcoming neighbourhoods such as Nieuw-West, Houthaven and Noord. Night owls can still be night owls but may first want to consult our extensive guide to the city’s nightlife online at iamsterdam.com/nightlife and in this magazine on pages 6 to 10. Of course, clubbing isn’t the only way to enjoy the city after hours. Famous music venues such as Paradiso, Muziekgebouw aan ‘t IJ and Melkweg are within walking distance from most central hotels, as are plenty of nighttime bars and late-night entertainment. Be their guest. And remember: the early hours are one of the best times to enjoy the beauty of Amsterdam.

Bart van Oosterhout Editor-in-Chief, I amsterdam City Guide

© KOEN SMILDE

© DENNIS BOUMAN

Fresh off the boat and ready to hit the floor? I amsterdam ’s agenda helps you make a well-thought-out decision on where to go: iamsterdam.com/nightlife

Dance the Night Away

Head outside on a regular Friday night in Amsterdam, and you’ll be trampled by people out on the streets – all happily heading to their favourite place for a night on the town. Whether it’s clubs, brown cafés, queer bars or the newest posh wine bar, all will be filled to the brim come midnight. Night owls abound in this bustling city. Like Berlin and London, Amsterdam’s identity partly derives from its reputation as a place where nightlife and counterculture are integral parts of life. It is as much an industry as it is a culture, with Amsterdam Dance Event – the world’s largest club-based festival – drawing more than 400,000 visitors every year, and massive rave festivals such as DGTL and Awakenings calling the city home.

Hotspots are spread across the city: head to De School if cutting-edge electronic music and unique line-ups in an industrial setting are what you’re after. Mainstream urban clubbing is good at the Encore nights at De Melkweg, which is also where you can dance to old and new latin sounds when the ever-popular Fiesta Macumba events are on. A recent addition to the clubbing scene is Parallel, a well-curated venue that should please fans of quality hip-hop, house, hyperpop and Afrodiasporic sounds. Other good places to sample Amsterdam’s nightlife include techno-centred Radion in upcoming district Nieuw-West, Skatecafe and Garage Noord in the edgy Noord district, the intimate De Nieuwe Anita if discovering new indie artists is your

With a history of laid-back sleeping-bag love-ins in Vondelpark, squat parties and acid house raves, Amsterdam has always had that nightlife spark. Find out where it’s happening right now.

‘Like Berlin and London, Amsterdam’s identity partly derives from its nightlife and counterculture’

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Up Front

8 |

AMSTERDAM’S

NIGHTLIFE

thing, and DIEP, a rave-minded bar where nostalgically nodding your head to 1990s house is the thing to do. There are plenty of places to dance the night away, whatever your preferred style of music.

Make room for nightlife

But Amsterdam is also a town of laptop cafés and rising property prices. Clubs are fighting over space with real estate developers who, more often than not, prefer building apartments rather than dance floors. Both the city council and Amsterdam’s Night Mayor Ramon de Lima (who represents and helps develop the city’s nightlife) realise that the nightlife infrastructure needs a helping hand. Therefore, the council is currently in the process of investigating possibilities to grant clubs the same protected status as museums and concert halls, which is already the case in Berlin. ‘The council also aims to reserve space for nightlife venues in land-use plans,’ says Lonneke van Genugten, spokeswoman for

Brown cafés & dance bars

There is of course much more to Amsterdam’s nightlife than just clubs; the city has a centuries’-long tradition of drinking at ‘brown cafés’. You’ll nd the more traditional ones in former working-class areas such as Jordaan and Oost where the ancient Café Chris (Bloemstraat 42, cafechris.nl), Café Nol (Westerstraat 109, cafenol.amsterdam) and Ruk & Pluk (Linnaeusstraat 48) are among the legendary ones. Brown cafés with an edge include De Oranjerie (Binnen Oranjestraat 15) and Café Krom (Utrechtsestraat 76, cafekrom.com). When sitting down is not your cup of tea and dancing is, but clubs are a bridge too far, head to Paci c (Polonceaukade 23, paci camsterdam. nl) or to Disco Dolly (Handboogstraat 11, discodolly.nl).

the council’s Art and Culture department.

‘This would mean that people moving into newly developed areas will never have to travel far if they feel like moving their dancing feet.’ On top of that, the council has granted 24-hour licences to a total of 13 venues, including live venue Tolhuistuin on the north shore of the River IJ and speakeasy basement Doka in Amsterdam Oost. These venues aren’t always open 24 hours but are permitted to organise a certain amount of all-nighters or all-weekenders every year. You might want to keep an eye on their online agendas.

I just wanna dance

As much as dance floors are now part of everyday life in the Dutch capital, there once was a time when dancing was deemed indecent. It wasn’t until 1924 that the first legal dance floors popped up. These were subject to strict regulations – reminiscent of COVID-19 guide-

lines: no more than one dancing couple per square metre. Imagine that. Fast-forward to the late 1960s, Vondelpark became the scene of love-ins, named after gatherings in San Francisco where hippiedom, music and sexual freedom were celebrated. As summer turned into autumn in 1967, a group of 50 hippies decided they wanted a venue where they could continue their love-ins without getting rained on. They squatted a church and named it Paradiso. The place soon became the go-to venue for performances by international bands such as Pink Floyd, The Pretty Things and Captain Bee eart and it is still one of the city’s prime venues for live music today. Paradiso now not only hosts events in its main hall but also smaller concerts at venues such as cosy Bitterzoet near Central station and even more intimate performances at Cinetol in De Pijp,

Ruk & Pluk

Paci c

ADE

Radio Radio © COEN VAN TARTWIJK

south of the city centre. A few years after Paradiso’s opening, another place that still operates as a prime concert venue opened its doors: De Melkweg, a former milk factory with three gig rooms. By the mid1970s, the vibes in the city turned a little darker, with punk and new wave providing the soundtrack. OCCII, a former squat in a horse stables and tram depot just south of Vondelpark, was opened in 1984 and still operates as one of the city’s fully independent venues for punk and alternative rock. Café the Minds on Spuistraat was opened that same year and continues to celebrate punk-style rebellion to this day, with army boots hanging from the ceiling, microbrewed draught pilsner on tap and distorted guitar music blasting from the speakers.

De Buurvrouw

Places to go when everything else closes for the night are much-needed in a big city. De Buurvrouw doesn’t get busy until late (or early) but that doesn’t mean it’s a last-resort kind of place. A real social hub, this is where night owls come to chat with strangers. Nachtcafés Bloemenbar, De Do er and Mazzeltof are other hangouts for those not ready to go to bed yet.

Café ’t Mandje

The longest-running gay bar in Amsterdam was opened by Bet van Beeren in 1927. As the decriminalisation of homosexuality was still a long way o , Van Beeren came up with a way of warning her clientele whenever a member of the vice squad entered – she’d ick on a light inside a china owl, uil in Dutch. Soon, gay men and women were using the word uil when discussing a heterosexual person. Bet’s niece Diana recently sold Café ‘t Mandje, under the agreement that the bar will always remain a safe haven for the LGBTQ+ community.

Nostalgic for those summer festivals? At Thuishaven, a large outdoor space that hosts techno and house parties every weekend, there’s a range of heated tents and cosy indoor spaces to get your groove on in winter.

CONTACTWEG 68, THUISHAVEN.NL

Café ’t Mandje

De Buurvrouw

SINT PIETERSPOORTSTEEG 29, DEBUURVROUW.NL

© KIRSTEN VAN SANTEN

The Loft

‘The excitement of the early days of raving came back with a vengeance’

Up Front

10 | AMSTERDAM’S

The raving 90s

NIGHTLIFE

In the summer of 1988, a magical, more positive breeze suddenly entered the city and –in some ways – it can still be felt today. Acid house and techno started to reach a few pioneering local dance floors, coming in from Ibiza via London. Belgian Amsterdammer Eddy de Clercq had a hard time getting the disco folk to dance to these new electronic sounds at club RoXY where he worked as a resident DJ, but when they finally got it, they really got it. Amsterdam became a house and techno hotbed. RoXY was destroyed during a fire in 1999, but iT, which opened in the slipstream of RoXY’s success, is still functional as AIR Amsterdam, one of the city’s few superclubs. Fun fact: during the day, AIR becomes Our House, a museum celebrating the more-than-three-decade-long history of electronic dance music. ‘It tells the story of how the electronic scene evolved from a rebellious underground community into a global cultural phenomenon,’ says co-founder Arne van Terphoven. Not only did electronic music become a global force

Parallel

DJs and live bands provide the soundtrack at Volkshotel’s basement bar Doka. Later on, the space transforms into an intimate, sweaty club.

WIBAUTSTRAAT 150, VOLKSHOTEL.NL

The renaissance of clubbing

to be reckoned with, the entire nightlife infrastructure was turned upside down to the point that you could now always dance to house music somewhere in the city. If not seven days a week, then certainly six. You could start your weekend anywhere in town on Wednesday and end it at the now defunct Mazzo club during their Manic Mondays nights. Café Diep and Schuim, both near Dam Square, are among the few places that call Amsterdam’s roaring 1990s back to mind, both crowd-wise and music-wise.

After the late 1990s rave peak, the city’s nightlife lost some of the excitement of the early days of techno, putting the dance floors to sleep. But with the arrival of Club 11 on the River IJ’s south shore in 2004, the excitement of the early days of raving came back with a vengeance. Club 11 became Trouw, and Trouw turned into De School, each in a di erent venue. De School inherited the marathon ‘Weekender sessions’ from its predecessors, where the club opens on Saturday night and doesn’t close until Monday morning. So with the council inviting clubs to apply for 24-hour licences, we’ve gradually arrived at a widely shared clubbing state of mind where daytime dancing has now become salonfähig and is to be enjoyed at hip venues such as Lofi and Bret in Amsterdam West, and Garage Noord and Shelter on the northside. Night owl or early bird, there’s no excuses anymore: it’s time to don those dancing shoes.

Safe spaces

In a city where nightlife is dominated by techno, places to dance to hip-hop and Afro-diasporic sounds are hard to nd. Wesley Texel and Raaf Verhoef, both music curators at Paradiso, felt this needed to change and started Parallel. Since the opening, the club has been living up to expectations, booking DJs playing hyperpop, amapiano and UK bass. And – of course – a little house.

De Nieuwe Anita

This bar and live venue is known for its Witte Gei’t gig events, where bands and singer-songwriters are given the chance to perform in front of a critical but fun-loving audience. The bar’s punters have grown along with the venue so you won’t feel out of place if you’re 40, 50 or even 70 years old.

As part of a global movement, Amsterdam’s clubbing community is in the process of restoring clubs as places where diversity and inclusion are celebrated like in the original days of nightclubbing, when dance oors were pioneered by Black and LGBTQ+ communities. Most clubs nowadays realise they need to live up to their claim of being safe spaces. In 2020, De School – a venue famous for its left-of-centre programming – announced its closure following criticism over failures in handling racist door policy claims. The venue (Doctor Jan van Breemenstraat 1-3, deschoolamsterdam.nl) reopened in September, a decision which has been received with great enthusiasm among local clubbers. Amid the dimly-lit spaces, the 24-hour licence ensures some of the city’s hardest electronic music parties unfold, emphasising techno. Beware: the door policy is strict.

Paradiso

Skatecafe

Skatecafe

Parallel

De Nieuwe Anita

BUIKSLOTERWEG 5C, PARALLEL.AM

FREDERIK HENDRIKSTRAAT 11, DENIEUWEANITA.NL

De School

TEXT: LESIA JOUKOVA

Take the ferry across the River IJ to Noord

Enjoy beautiful views of the city from the panoramic viewing platform of the A’DAM Lookout, indulge in old and modern cinema in the Eye Filmmuseum and add to your Dutch must-visit list during a 5D ight experience through the Netherlands at This is Holland.

DURATION: 2 HOURS

Your Trip

14 | MAKE THE MOST OF YOUR TRIP

Whether it’s a whirlwind trip or a long luxurious stay, make the most of every hour in Amsterdam with our guide to what to see and do.

How to spend your time in…

Take in the canal views with a boat tour

A canal cruise is a must when in Amsterdam (included for all holders of the I amsterdam City Card). There is no better way to soak in the city than to sail past houseboats and under old bridges as you learn the secrets behind the tilting facades and merchant mansions.

DURATION: 1 HOUR

View world-famous artworks at the Rijksmuseum

Sample some deliciously fresh Dutch herring topped with onion at Stubbe’s Haring on the corner of Haarlemmerstraat and Singel.

Explore nature in the city

Wander around a magni cent arboretum, venture into an all-yearround palm greenhouse and take a canopy walk through three di erent climates, from the subtropical to the desert. The Hortus Botanicus botanical garden is the perfect oasis of greenery nestled in the Plantage neighbourhood and is free with the I amsterdam City Card.

DURATION: 1.5 HOURS

12 hours in Amsterdam

Go mad for cheese

Explore over 800 years’ worth of Dutch culture and history and view iconic masterworks such as Rembrandt’s The Night Watch, The Milkmaid and Van Gogh’s selfportrait. Entrance is free for I amsterdam City Card holders.

Vermeer’s

Amsterdam has no shortage of delicious cheese experiences. There’s Kaasbar Amsterdam, which serves its artisan cheese sushi-style on a conveyor belt; Fromagerie Abraham Kef’s tasting room; and Henri Willig cheese shops that highlight the best local avours, from Gouda to goat’s cheese.

DURATION: 1 HOUR

DURATION: 2 HOURS

hours in Amsterdam

Learn about Amsterdam’s unique canal system

Get to the bottom of it at the Grachtenmuseum (Museum of the Canals; free with the I amsterdam City Card), where you will learn all about the unique UNESCO Canal Belt and how it came about. Explore 400 years of history in this beautiful 17th-century mansion that gives an insight into canal-side living.

DURATION: 1-2 HOURS

Cycle like a local

Swap your feet for wheels (free with the I amsterdam City Card at several bike rental shops) and explore Amsterdam at a di erent speed. When the streets get too overwhelming, head for green areas such as Flevopark or Vondelpark, or escape the city bustle altogether in the spacious Amsterdamse Bos (Amsterdam Forest).

DURATION: 3 HOURS

Embark on a food adventure

Discover the best local cafés and stalls of De Pijp with the Amsterdam Do-It-Yourself Foodie Tour (included with the I amsterdam City Card). It will lead you through family-owned businesses boasting delicious fare, from the best (syrup wa es) to Surinamese and Dutch snack foods.

fare, from the best stroopwafels

DURATION: 2 HOURS

See what the big stage has to offer

Enjoy an evening of music and dance at the Dutch National Opera & Ballet. Be sure to take in the nearby Magere Brug (Skinny Bridge) shimmering across the Amstel River as you make your way there. DURATION: 2 HOURS

© GERT-JAN VAN ROOIJ

© KOEN SMILDE

Your Trip

See the world differently through Outsider Art

The Museum of the Mind | Outsider Art museum in the Hermitage Amsterdam features outstanding artworks made by those who are art world – and often social –outsiders, often unconcerned by outside opinions. Experience extraordinarily authentic works of art that go against the grain in this unique collection. Entry is free with the I amsterdam City Card.

DURATION: 2 HOURS

Take in Haarlem ’s cosy canals and windmills on a boat tour included with the City Card.

48 hours in Amsterdam

Experience the windmills of Zaanse Schans

Walk along the line of green wooden facades to the iconic windmills of the Zaanse Schans and show your I amsterdam City Card to gain access to historical landmarks all over the village. Learn about the art of clog-making and the inner workings of a sawmill, and take a peek into the oldest Albert Heijn grocery store: the one that started it all.

DURATION: 2 HOURS

Enjoy Dutchstyle fries

Eat fries the Dutch way – fried to perfection and topped with delicious mayonnaise – at Vlaams Friteshuis Vleminckx. A popular snack with the locals, fries in the Netherlands are elevated to an art form. If you are feeling adventurous, swap the mayo for its tru e cousin or order the much-beloved oorlog: satay sauce, mayonnaise and chopped onions. This pick-me-up is just what the doctor ordered!

DURATION: 1 HOUR

Learn and taste history at the Zaans Museum

Find out about the history of the region and the art of chocolate-making at Verkade Experience. With an interactive factory interface, you can try your hand at packing bonbons, explore the machinery of the early 20th century and create your own chocolate wrapper. Entry is free with the I amsterdam City Card.

DURATION: 1 HOUR

Dam Life

Night Watch

As this magazine was being made, the world’s biggest electronic musical festival kicked off in Amsterdam. Lauren Comiteau sat down with the city’s Night Mayor to discuss the ups and downs of possibly the best job in the world.

It’s kind of ironic I’m writing about Amsterdam’s nightlife. Don’t get me wrong. Always a night owl, I love the wee hours, and there’s so much on o er. But at my age, ‘nightlife’ usually translates as dinner out or a night at the pub, perhaps a film or a concert at old-school venues such as ‘Pop Temple’ Paradiso or the jazzy Bimhuis. My clubbing days – from the Ritz and Limelight in the 1980s and 1990s New Amsterdam to the RoXY – seem to be behind me. Not so for Ramon de Lima, the city’s nachtburgemeester (Night Mayor). Yes, Amsterdam actually has a mayor of the night, the first city in the world to inaugurate one in 2003, although then it was in the form of a collective, aptly named The Night Watch after Rembrandt’s masterpiece.

As the city’s seventh Night Mayor, this 30-year-old self-described ‘spokesman of the night’ is using his discretionary powers to focus on the grass roots club scene, where he says today’s young nighttime talent is being nurtured into tomorrow’s generation of culture makers. ‘Of course, I’m always here for the bars and the restaurants and the more established clubs,’ he says. ‘But my focus is on the parts of nightlife that need help now – the underground initiatives and the artists who don’t have places to play. I choose my battles.’

De Lima sees his job as making sure Amsterdam’s nightlife is vibrant, inclusive and safe. By safe, he’s not talking about drug use or fire safety. The daytime politicians deal with that. But by working with them and all who

have a foot in the club door, De Lima wants to create an atmosphere where everyone on the dance floor feels free from discrimination – whatever their race, sexual preference or dance style.

‘The night has great value culturally, but also socially and economically, and the city is interested in that,’ he says. Although regrettably acknowledging my has-been status, I applaud De Lima’s focus on the young. When I met him on the eve of the massive Amsterdam Dance Event (ADE), he was brimming with enthusiasm at the prospect of mixing business with pleasure.

‘I’ll be attending many conferences, networking, swapping stories with the world’s other Night Mayors,’ he said, ‘and partying, of course.’ Ah… to be young.

Lauren Comiteau is a journalist and writer who has covered the Netherlands for TIME Magazine, CBS Radio and others since 1996. She lives in Amsterdam with her two daughters and Jack Russell.

TEXT: LAUREN COMITEAU |

© MAX KNEEFEL

Where to indulge in Amsterdam Eat & Drink

TEXT: KARIN ENGELBRECHT

Pianeta Terra

This 22-year-old steady force of organic cooking was recently included in the Top 50 Best Italian Restaurants Outside Italy. Chef Fabio Antonini is a long-time ambassador of the Slow Food Chefs Alliance, which promotes local food and traditional cooking. Save for the Italian wine, cheese and oil, everything’s locally sourced, from wild Wadden Sea oysters, samphire and chicory to wild animals like fallow deer and black crow (yes, really!). Antonini’s Italian soul and delicious dedication to ‘Planet Earth’ shines through in every creatively crafted dish (from €37 for three courses).

BEULINGSTRAAT 7, PIANETATERRA.NL

Drinks Scene

New Dutch gin

Elevate your G & T game with a Dutch twist. Lowlander Gin, the ‘world’s first nature-positive gin’, (€27.99 at Gall & Gall, various locations, gall. nl) is smooth, boasts fragrant notes of lime leaf, rosemary and cardamom, and comes in an innovative 100% recyclable paperboard bottle. Gin-ius!

Rutte Botanical Distillers has released a new version of its award-winning Dutch Dry Gin. Still made using a traditional method harking back to the 19th century, it’s now flavoured with organic celery leaf, fresh handpeeled orange zest, juniper berries, angelica, coriander and cardamom (€25.99 at Gall & Gall).

Bitterballen (mini veal croquettes) are the Dutch bar bite. Try the ones made by Holtkamp Patisserie at Café-Restaurant De Ysbreeker (€7.75 for six).

WEESPERZIJDE 23, DEYSBREEKER.NL

Say proost in style with sculpted pink and orange champagne glasses (€14.95 via Anna + Nina).

HERENGRACHT 369/GERAR D DOUSTRAAT 94, ANNA-NINA.NL

Best genever tasting rooms

‘Borrel’ Culture

The borrel is a very Dutch thing. Strictly speaking, the meaning of the word goes back to 1692 when it described a small glass of strong spirit (usually genever), which was often consumed alongside a glass of beer. But the meaning has evolved and it’s now also used in the context of a casual get-together with friends or colleagues. Of course, the concept of after-work drinks exists in some form wherever alcohol is enjoyed, but the Dutch truly value their work-life balance and make a point of taking the time to unwind, often with a fixed VrijMiBo (Friday afternoon drinks). No borrel is complete without bittergarnituur, a hearty selection of deep-fried snacks, including vegeterian options. Where to find the nearest borrel? Simply look around. Amsterdammers of all walks of life have been rubbing shoulders at

Café Hoppe (Spui 18-20, cafehoppe. com) since 1670 and still it’s still a popular choice. The Zuid crowd converge at Café Wildschut (Roelof Hartplein 1-3, cafewildschut.nl), which is one of the city’s first grand cafés and remains an excellent spot for networking and catching the late afternoon sun. Other good borrel spots include brown cafés near offices, including Café-Restaurant Hesp (Weesperzijde 130-131, caferestauranthesp.nl). But whether you choose a cosy oldschool bar with a warming fireplace, such as Café de Wetering (Weteringstraat 37), a casual canal-side eetcafé like Van Pu elen (Prinsengracht 375-377, restaurantvanpuffelen.com) or a Gen-Z hangout such as Kikkie van De Prinsensluis (Prinsenstraat 30, kikkie.amsterdam) all you need to know is that the art of the borrel is about having a relaxed attitude.

Learn about the emblematic Dutch spirit, jenever, by heading to a proeflokaal (tasting room). The city’s oldest, De Drie Fleschjes (Gravenstraat 18, dedriefleschjes.nl) was established in 1650 and serves the traditional tipple from authentic

casks behind the bar alongside authentic snacks such as ossenworst (smoked raw beef sausage). At Wynand Fockink (est. 1679, Pijlsteeg 31, wynand-fockink.nl) you can sip on over 80 genevers. Try a kopstootproeverij (four different

genevers with matching tap beers and Dutch bar bites, €32.50) at the city’s ‘last traditional distillery’ A. van Wees (Herengracht 319, proeflokaal-vanwees.nl), which also has a canalside terrace. Or discover the hidden charms of ’t Nieuwe Diep distillery (Flevopark 13A, nwediep.nl), located in a former pumping station in the lush Flevopark and almost completely surrounded by water. © ALAMY

Your essential overview of Amsterdam’s buzzing drinks scene. From the best tasting rooms for traditional tipples to the hippest bar bites, and everything in between.

© ALAMY

© ALAMY

Drinks Scene

22 | TIPPLE WITH A TWIST

Best bar bites

Never mind those ubiquitous cubes of Dutch cheese and deep-fried delights designed to soak up the alcohol, we’ve set the bar higher to find the best drinking companions.

At the new bar of urban winery Chateau Amsterdam (Johan van Hasseltweg 51, chateau.

amsterdam), you can enjoy more than 25 Amsterdam-made wines and upcoming chef Joey Baas’ brilliant bar snacks, such as panisse (chickpea fries, €7), polpette di baccalà (salt cod balls, €8) and tarte de Menton (onion and Taggia olive tart, €4.50). Or order artichoke with chive dip (€10), buffalo wings with blue cheese dressing (€20) and oeuf mayonnaise (€7) at (natural) wine bar BAMBINO (Vijzelgracht 5, bambinobar.nl), a beloved haunt of local foodies. And let’s not forget that French wine specialist Café de Klepel (Prinsenstraat 22, cafedeklepel.nl) has long been getting rave reviews for its dependably delicious bistro classics and impressive selection of over 300 Gallic wines.

Dutch beer bars

Allow a beer sommelier to guide you through the offering from 32 Amsterdam-based craft brewers at Tap Zuid (Maasstraat 70, tapzuid.amsterdam). Or discover more than 40 Amsterdam beers at Bar Joost (Molukkenstraat 33, joost-amsterdam.nl), a hidden gem in the Indische Buurt. Broaden your horizons beyond the city limits at Proeflokaal Arendsnest (Herengracht 90, arendsnest.nl), where there are 52 beers on tap and more than 100 bottled brews – all from the Netherlands.

Borrel around the clock

Café culture is not tied to nighttime and at local favourites such as hip Bar Bukowski (Oosterpark 10, barbukowski. nl) and atmospheric ’t Loosje (Nieuwmarkt 32, loosje.nl) you can breakfast but also booze until well into the night. Meanwhile, Latin bar Sins of Sal (Westerstraat 86, sinsofsal.nl) is the place to satisfy all your late-night guilty pleasures.

© MOKUMISTA

Duyvis borrelnootjes (spiced cocktail nuts with a smooth crispy coating) have been a Dutch store-cupboard staple since the 1960s (€2.25 at supermarkets).

© MOKUMISTA

© SILJA SUMMANEN

Wine bars and bistros such as Oost-based Alex + Pinard are a solid bet for good wine and simple yet tasty food on a whim.

DAPPERSTRAAT 10, ALEXPINARD.NL

No Reservations

These days, getting a last-minute reservation at a restaurant on a Saturday night can be very challenging. Luckily, more and more restaurateurs are shunning bookings, partly to avoid no-shows. Here are a few of our favourite eateries that have thrown out the reservations book.

Eetcafé Schotsheuvel

Friendly service is part of the charm at this relaxed eetcafé in the Museum district in Zuid, but so is the dependably deli cious food, such as flank steak with smoked Dutch bacon, carrots, beans and gravy (€22.50).

BANSTRAAT 14 SCHOTSHEUVEL.NL

Café Beurre

‘We love the ease of simply being able to walk in some where when you feel like it,’ says Kim Jongbloed, owner of the buzzing new Staatslieden buurt restaurant. Your patience will be rewarded with delicioulsy decadent vegetari an dishes such as a pastilla filled with cabrales cheese, sweet onions and walnuts, served with lashings of salted butter (€12.50).

VAN LIMBURG STIRUMSTRAAT 115 CAFEBEURREAMSTERDAM.NL

Wijmpje Beukers

The three Brabantborn owners of this ‘cosy living room’ in De Pijp, combine their ‘passion for hospitality’ and fresh, local ingredients to create a weekly menu featuring up to 20 dishes, including vegetarian/vegan options (mains from €19.50).

KAREL DU JARDINSTRAAT 47 WIJMPJEBEUKERS.NL

Binnenvisser

This reborn brown café in West is a convivial spot to meet friends and order the whole menu (generally five or six exciting veg-led dishes or the four-course chef’s menu, from €33.50). Wash it down with a glass of natural wine – there’s a decent selection sourced from small-scale producers.

BILDERDIJKSTRAAT 36 BINNENVISSER.NL

© SAMIRA KAFALA

Top Tips

Ranked No. 11 in the prestigious 50 Top Europe 2022 awards, you’ll find Amsterdam’s best woodfired pizza at nNea (from €9.50).

BILDERDIJKSTRAAT 92 NNEAPIZZA.COM

Flaming Hotspots

MR PORTER

On a menu dominated by well-aged, perfectly prepared meats – the New York strip steak is a juicily marbled won der with flavourful golden fat –it’s easy to overlook veggie dishes such as the garlicky flame-grilled courgette car paccio with shaved Belper Knolle cheese (€15).

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Restaurant Wils

At this Michelin-starred trendsetter, it’s all about the subtle smoky edge that only cooking on an open fire can bring to everything, from blackened bread to grilled fennel with orange beurre blanc (six courses for €105).

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Sagardi

Taste only the best from the Basque Country, prepared by skilled grillmasters on a traditional open-fire grill: from garden-fresh seasonal veggies and wild-caught tur bot (from €10 per 100g) to the famous Txuleton steak.

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Helling 7

Perched on an old shipyard slip way at the NDSM Wharf and constructed entirely of scrap metal and glass is a restaurant where the circular theme extends to the menu: local, sustainable in gredients cooked over a wood fire in an open kitchen (€39 for three courses).

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Nela

This live-fire eatery in ‘vertical village’ Valley has been getting all the buzz lately. Expect crispy lavash flatbread from the woodfired taboon with guajillo chilli butter, amber charcoal-roasted artichokes and charred baby leeks with mustard dressing (from €75 for a six-course tasting menu).

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Salmuera

If you haven’t already added this laid-back Argentinian bar-restau rant to your must-visit list for its Latin American street food, slow-roasted suckling pig (from €18.79) and magnificent mezcal wall (with more than 100 varie ties), you certainly should.

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The oldest cooking technique known to humankind has recently become trendy as Amsterdam’s chefs (re)discover the pleasures of playing with fire.

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Fine Dining

A light and bright bur rata dish with cucamelon and verbena-coriander oil exemplifies how chef Sparber takes only a few ingredients and makes them sing.

Complex Simplicity

Tucked

Austrian chef-owner Jonathan Sparber’s CV reads like a who’s who of Am sterdam’s must-visit restaurants, including Entrepot, Scheepskameel, Toscanini and Vermeer. With its nose-to-tail ingredients and vintage crockery, no-waste seems to be a theme at this four-year-old restaurant named for a stock that’s made with reused bones, but Sparber says he simply cooks ‘the food he loves’. This may include leaving the head

on a spatchcocked quail because the skin on the neck is ‘the best part’. For us, highlights of a recent surprise menu (from €44 for four courses) included an earthy plate of roast beet with saffron-bergamot sauce and a deliciously unusual dessert of candied aubergine in palm sugar with crème fraiche, sesame seeds and sesame oil, which brought sticky toffee pudding to mind.

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away in residential Rivierenbuurt is a true treasure trove. At Cafe Remouillage, seemingly simple dishes are made with complex techniques that deliver full-on flavour.

Brunch Hero

Spruce up your morning routine with Doing Goods ’ recycled brass Octo Egg Cups (€50 for a set of two at de Bijenkorf).

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A good egg

It’s impossible to claim that these are the city’s best egg dishes – or even that that they'll still be on the menu when you visit – but they’re certainly the ones that impressed us most recently. Newcomer Mont Blanc (Govert Flinckstraat 308, restaurantmontblanc.nl) takes oeufs en meurette (part of a chef’s menu, from €79) to new heights: egg yolks in mondeuse grape sauce with onions, lardo and egg white mayo and sourdough to dip in all that ooey gooey goodness. Meanwhile, charred onions stuffed with raw lamb, served with a sticky duck egg confit and a dressing of soy sauce and butter were a highlight of a recent surprise menu (from €44 for four courses) at the alwaysadventurous Cafe Remouillage (Trompenburgstraat 111, cafe.remouillage.com).

light of a recent surprise menu (from

Pastry doesn’t get eggier than lemon meringue pie. Made with five eggs, Patisserie Holtkamp has the city’s best (€3.95 per slice).

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Special brunch spots

Is there a better way to start the day than tucking into something eggy? At Conservatorium Brasserie (Paulus Potterstraat 50, conservatoriumhotel.com/ brasserie) a delicate lobster omelette is part of a superb Sunday Brunch (€75). For classic Dutch uitsmijters (a type of openfaced fried egg sandwich, from €7.75) and

Egg-celent Offerings

Which came first, the chicken or the egg? Menu-wise, it’s got to be the egg, if only for its popularity at breakfast time. But there’s more...

The classic conundrum has inspired many, including Dutch author Guus Luijters, who wrote in Ode aan het Ei (Ode to the Egg, Nieuw Amsterdam Publishing, 2021) that as ordinary as the hen is, her eggs are extraordinary. Luijters also claimed that a whopping 10 billion eggs a year come from Dutch farms – enough to rebuild the Great Pyramid of Giza in eggs. How’s that for a fun fact? Some of those eggs find their way into the hands of Amsterdam’s best chefs and most creative kitchens. We’ve taken a look at many of the ways that this humble ingredient is whisked, fried, baked, boiled, slow-cooked, poached and coddled to be eaten or drunk in sweet and savoury creations everywhere from sandwich shops to fine-dining restaurants.

always-excellent croque madame (€9.35), head to De Ysbreeker (Weesperzijde 23, deysbreeker.nl). Or indulge in yolk porny shakshuka and Eggs Benny at the Groovy Social Sunday Brunch (€40, every last Sunday of the month) at The Butcher Social Club (Overhoeksplein 1, the-butcher.com/ socialclub).

All around the world

Still Life with Chickens and Eggs, Giovanni Battista Recco, 16401660, Rijksmuseum Amsterdam

It wouldn’t be Christmas or Easter without advocaat , the traditional Dutch tipple made from eggs, sugar and brandy. A. van Wees’ is the real deal (€13.20).

Almost every cuisine has a signature egg dish and you can find many of them in Amsterdam, from aromatic telor kuning (eggs in yellow sauce), part of the excellent Indonesian rice table spread (from €32.50) at Restaurant Blauw (Amstelveenseweg 158-160, restaurantblauw.nl) to Georgian acharuli khachapuri, a buttery boatshaped bread oozing with egg yolk (€8), at Batoni Khinkali (Willemsparkweg 177A, facebook.com/ batonikhinkali), delightful Japanese-style egg sandos (sandwiches; €8) at Ranchi (Albert Cuypstraat 260, ranchi.amsterdam) and the city’s best Full English Breakfast (€12.50) at The Cottage (Linnaeusstraat 88, thecottage.amsterdam).

Find out more on food and drink in Amsterdam on iamsterdam.com/ restaurants

Top Tips

Soju Bar

Be the heart and, ahem, Seoul of the party at De Pijp’s newest Korean (food) bar, where there’s fried chicken (we liked the garlic soy, €13.50) and other Korean crowd pleasers such as bibimbap (rice bowls, from €13.50), bingsu (shaved ice cream, from €9) and fun soju bombs (€4.90).

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Chun Café

Head to this minimalist space for the Instafamous rib eye Bulgogi toast (€12.50) that’s to blame for that line out the door. Imagine butter-soft brioche, stuffed with beef in a sweet-savoury Korean sauce and topped with sliced boiled eggs, spicy mayo and herbs.

Or try the garlic-shrimp-egg (€11) or bacon-egg-cheese instead (€10) with a hojicha latte (€5.20) to wash it all down.

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Enjoy fluff y deep-fried fusion rice treats, at Amsterdam’s first mochi doughnut shop Nobu.

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Asian with a Twist

Miri Mary

The veg-led menu at this new Indian eatery includes handsomely made-up plates with curried prawn pappadums (€12), a wheat crisp and chickpea salad (€8), and aromatic butter chicken (€8) with crispy garlic naan and fluff y basmati rice. Creative cocktails include the superb Smokey Watermelon (€14) with gin and mezcal, shaken with fresh watermelon, lime and a hint of rose.

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Thai Thai Poppetje

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This quirky De Baarsjes-based Thai street food bar has been getting rave reviews for its signature khao soi curry noodle soup (€18.50) and vegan pad thai (€15.50) made with ingredients from the garden out back. There is also a good selection of natural wines, Thai beers and sodas, boba tea and homemade lemonades.

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Asian-inspired foods have reached viral heights on social media lately. We’ve rounded up a few of the best places that feed our fascination.

Fine Dining

MONT BLANC

The

From the seamless service, in soft French-inflected tones, to the wonder ful regional wines and Alpine-inspired fine dining, it all comes together at this relative newcomer to De Pijp. Owned by the couple behind the lovely Bistrot des Alpes, chef Thibault (ex-Vinkeles*, ex-Ciel Bleu**) clearly has a passion for his native region. Highlights of a recent meal included a wild asparagus starter

with a stout sabayon and mushroom and coffee crumble, trout with pine foam under a buck wheat cage, a gorgeous quail dish with beet and hay, and a regional cheese trolley that’s every cheese lover’s dream. Do yourself a favour and go before it becomes too famous and continu ally fully booked (as it deserves to be).

The husband-andwife team behind Mont Blanc, Thibault Casasole and Dieuwertje Gordijn.

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TEXT: VERITY SEWARD

Top (pink) secret

One

Exhibitions

This Spring, the Rijksmuseum will be given over to the most exten sive retrospective of world-renowned painter Johannes Vermeer in history, with museums from all over the globe loaning works for the occasion (10 February4 June). This is your chance to see paintings such as The Milkmaid and The Little Street up close and learn everything about the exquisite brushwork and subtle compositions of one of the Netherlands’ most treasured artists.

Vermeer at the Rijks

MUSEUM OF THE MIND

The exhibition 31553580 (obsession): numbers and schedules (until 27 Au gust) explores a craving for structure and logic in our chaotic world. Art works by so-called ‘out sider’ artists offer solace for the soul.

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HUIS MARSEILLE

Don’t miss Rijksmuseum’s other masterpieces. Highlights include Rem brandt’s The Nightwatch and Cuypers Library, the oldest art history library in the Nether lands, with it's beautiful spiral staircase.

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Catch the first-ever large-scale retrospective of photographer Samuel Fosso at photography museum Huis Marseille, present ing a refreshing vision of today’s world (until 12 March).

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Amsterdam houses many more museums than can fit on these pages. Head to iamsterdam.com to see them all.

Oude

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Foam Talent Anne Imhof at Stedelijk

Foam photography museum exhibits all genres of photography in a beautiful canalside setting. As well as displaying a wide variety of works, it acts as a creative hub where photographers can meet and participate in forums and symposiums. Each year, the group exhibition Foam Talent (until 18 January) presents the work of a new generation of photographers – 20 participating image-makers who are not shy to address uncomfortable or challenging issues in the world around us. Other exhibitions include The Future is Blinking: Early Studio Photography from West and Central Africa (until 12 February) and Ernest Cole (27 January-14 June).

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Ground-breaking German artist Anne Imhof combines architecture, light, and sound to transform the Stedelijk Museum's gallery into a labyrinthine installation. YOUTH (until 29 January) is an immersive and disorienting experience, and also features new video work, set in the desolate, snowy outskirts of Moscow. In town after January? Anne Imhof's installation is followed by Bad Color Combos (until 5 March), the solo exhibition of Yto Barrada.

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Jewish Cultural Quarter

Nestled between Waterlooplein and De Plantage, The Jewish Cultural Quarter (JCK) is a neighbourhood where many Jewish Amsterdammers once lived. Today a rich cultural history is still visible, and you’ll find various monuments, memorials and museums within a few steps from each other. The Jewish Museum is a prominent museum located in four synagogues with an extensive permanent collection and an interactive Children’s Museum. Photography exhibitions such as Zerheilt - Photo Fragments from Berlin (until 3 March) and Iris Hassid: A Place of Our Own (until 29 January) give a multifaceted picture of contemporary Jewish life. Dating back to 1675, the Portuguese Synagogue is one of the world’s largest

synagogues and houses Ets Haim, the oldest active Jewish library in the world. Nearby, you’ll find the The National Holocaust Memorial of Names (pictured), which consists of 102,220 bricks bearing the names and dates of birth and death of those deported and murdered during World War II.

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Dutch Design and death? Why not? Delve into this, and our relationship with the afterlife, at Tot Zover (The Funeral Museum), located, fittingly, in a cemetery.

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FIONA TAN AT EYE

The exhibition Mountains and Molehills (until 8 January) investigates how we hold onto memories –in archives, in the mind, in the landscape, and on film. IJPROMENADE 1 EYEFILM.NL

Kerk, a 15th-century church, doubles as an exhibition space and home to the flagship World Press Photo Exhibition. Absorb powerful and influential images taken by the most talented press photographers working today.

Many museums and attractions are free with the I amsterdam City Card. Get yours at iamsterdam.com/citycard. Card

MUSEUM TOT ZOVER

Exhibitions Love stories

For full listings of what’s on in Amsterdam, visit our website: iamsterdam.com/ whatson

Cobra Museum

Home to key works by the avant-garde cohort of the CoBrA art movement, this light-flooded museum in Amstelveen (just a short tram ride from the city centre) is well worth the trip for any modern

VAN EESTEREN MUSEUM

Indoor pavilions and open-air exhibits explore post-war urban development, 20thcentury history and architecture.

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STRAAT MUSEUM

At the world’s largest street art museum, colossal murals, graffiti works and installations directly inspired by the location stretch to the rafters of this vast post-industrial space.

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art enthusiast. The collection features impressive works by the great names of the mid-20th century, such as Karel Appel, Constant Nieuwenhuys and Jan Sierhuis. You’ll find significant retrospectives about individual contributors to the movement and a changing schedule of temporary exhibitions of modern and contemporary art. Until 8 January, see Cosmogony: Zinsou, an African Art Collection showcasing works by 37 artists from different countries and generations.

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DUTCH RESISTANCE MUSEUM

Discover heartwarming stories and important artefacts detailing the history of the Dutch resistance in World War II during the country’s occupation by Germany.

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GROOTE MUSEUM

Delve into the connection between all living things at this newly-renovated museum on Artisplein, next to the zoo.

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The Hermitage Amsterdam should be on everyone’s cultural bucket list – notably as it offers access to three museums within one building. The exhibition Love Stories - Art, Passion & Tragedy (until 8 January) consists of more than 100 portraits by legendary artists and photographers revolving around the theme of true love stories and history’s famous muses. Next door, you’ll also find the temporary home of the Amsterdam Museum, where the exhibition Panorama Amsterdam: a living history of the city reveals the 16th-century genesis of the Dutch capital all the way to its imagined future. The Maasdamme Collection (until 16 March) is a collection of dioramas by Rita Maasdamme that explores Dutch colonial history from the perspective of those enslaved, Maroons and the Indigenous population.

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© LAURENCE OLIVIER AND VIVIEN LEIGH BY UNKNOWN PHOTOGRAPHER, 1937

Van Gogh

Endlessly reproduced on fridge magnets and tea towels, the work, colour palette and expressive paint strokes of Vincent van Gogh continue to enchant the world. The sleek Van Gogh Museum offers a refreshing take on the Dutch painter’s life and work, displaying the world’s largest collection of his paintings, illustrations, and personal letters for a unique glimpse into his world. This winter it also highlights another extraordinary painter in a temporary exhibition: Golden Boy Gustav Klimt (until 8 January) offers a remarkable opportunity to view Klimt’s art alongside work by the numerous artists who inspired him.

The Open Space Contemporary Art Museum ( OSCAM ) stages accessible fine art, fashion, craft and design exhibitions by dynamic creatives and makers.

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Tropenmuseum

This expansive, light-drenched museum houses a collection of intriguing artefacts from around the globe, each with its own story to tell about world cultures, past and present. Presented in insightful

and imaginative displays, the Things That Matter permanent exhibition considers themes that connect people across borders. The major exhibition Our Colonial Heritage challenges you to think about the ongoing legacies of colonisation –with a particular look at Dutch colonial history in Indonesia, Suriname, Curaçao, Sint Maarten and many other countries. Meanwhile, Plastic Crush is one of the first exhibitions to address the global history of plastic and its impact on our daily lives.

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Indonesia and The Amsterdam School

Glow of the East: Indonesia and The Amsterdam School (until 27 August) explores the relationship between Indonesian folk architecture and crafts and the expressive, imaginative style of the Amsterdam School movement. Of course it’s on show in the museum dedicated to the Amsterdam School, Museum Het Schip, a whacky redbrick building located in a former socialist housing block. Here you’ll learn all about the social, political and artistic context of the early 20th-century architecture and design style.

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AMSTERDAM CITY ARCHIVES

All stored within a monumental Art Deco building, the Amsterdam City Archives is an enormous, fascinating treasure trove of municipal history, and exhibitions are free to visit.

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FABRIQUE DES LUMIÈRES

Experience immersive digital artworks dedicated to the most celebrated art history figures – designed to complement the unique architecture of Westergas, a former gasworks station.

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© GUSTAV KLIMT, JUDITH , 1901, BELVEDERE VIENNA, JOHANNES STOLL

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On Stage

Dutch National Opera & Ballet

Between the exquisite artistry, innovative productions, dazzling sets and costumes, it's a treat to catch a performance at Dutch National Opera & Ballet. A must-see production this winter is the opera Giulio Cesare (16 January-5 February) in which power and passion take centre stage. From 3-12 March, experience the Opera Forward Festival and discover all that opera has to offer, from works by grand masters to pieces by a new generation of artists. With opera, music theatre, video art, poetry and lectures, OFF expands the definition of this art form. Unmissable dance productions on the schedule this season include ballet classics Swan Lake (22 March-18 April) and The Sleeping Beauty (until 2 January).

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Royal Theatre Carré

Whether you want low-brow chuckles or to be wowed by theatre, opera and dance, you’ll always find something to raise a smile in the variety programming of Royal Theatre Carré. For over a century, this historic venue has attracted massive stars from internationally acclaimed comedians and musicians to some of the country’s most noteworthy cabaret acts. The glitter and glamour roll over into the festive season when Carré hosts the famous World Christmas Circus (21 December8 January). And this Spring, be sure to catch the much-loved musical Les Misérables (1-19 March) on the Dutch leg of its tour.

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For full listings of what’s on in Amsterdam, visit our website: iamsterdam.com/ whatson

Internationaal Theater Amsterdam

The performances at Internationaal (sic) Theater Amsterdam (ITA) will undoubtedly keep you on the edge of your seat. With an inspiring programme of (inter)national dance and theatre and its own top-notch ensemble of famous actors and directors, ITA has become a household name in the world of theatre. The monumental building is impossible to miss when you stumble onto the Leidseplein. Check their website for language-no-problem shows and performances with surtitles.

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Tuck into a one-of-a-kind theatrical experience at Tapas Theater where you design your own pick 'n mix programme of up to three 20-minute performances. Plus: tapas, of course!

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Badhuistheater

Locals and international artists come together to enjoy music, dance, theatre and parties at Mikes Badhuistheater, a novel theatre housed in a heritage-listed former public bathhouse.

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Up for laughs

When it comes to all things stand-up, Toomler (Breitnerstraat 2, comedytrain.nl) has been the home base and springboard for many Dutch comedians. The comedy club is also known for attracting a dazzling line-up of international acts (Trevor Noah, Ali Wong and Jim Jefferies, among others) during their International Summer Festival and throughout the year. Likewise, Boom Chicago (Rozengracht 117, boomchicago.nl) has been tickling the ribs of audiences for over 25 years with its combination of comedy, sketch and improv, all performed in English. Shows touch on everything from Dutch culture to American politics, and many big names started here.

Mezrab Cultural Centre

Settle into Mezrab’s cosy floor cushions for a night of tall tales and real-life stories told by professional storytellers. This unique cultural centre, located in Pakhuis Wilhelmina in the city’s Eastern Docklands, has grown into one of the best stages for spokenword, improv and comedy in the city. The expansive venue also hosts a diverse array of exhibitions, dance parties and musical guests from around the world with a casual atmosphere that will make you feel right at home, no matter what’s on the agenda.

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DeLaMar

The impressive building of the DeLaMar Theater close to Leidseplein is a real show stopper. The theatre draws in the crowds and a flurry of international and national theatre, musical and dance companies for a massive array of shows. By contrast, the westerly outpost, DeLaMar West (on the border of Bos en Lommer and Nieuw-West), operates as a neighbourhood theatre focusing on developing young talent, musicals and musical theatre. What’s extra special is that the programme frequently includes performances that you can only experience in West, including previews and shows specially developed for the location.

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On Screen

LAB111

Housed in one of the city’s most unu sual converted spaces, a former patho logical anatomy lab, and with its own dedicated Kubrick-inspired bar, Lab111 is about as quirky as cinemas get. On the agenda, you’ll see a range of special screenings, animated features, modern classics and in-depth documentaries alongside regular showings with English subtitles. The space also hosts art exhi bitions, lectures and concerts, and has a good café and restaurant.

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Kaboom Animation Festival

Studio/K

Run by a team of enthusiastic students, this forward-look ing centre in east functions as an art house cinema, gig venue, gallery and bar restaurant. The two screening rooms lay on an outstanding range of quality films focused on cinema that has emerged from out side Hollywood.

The music schedule revolves around club nights, DJ live streams, and acous tic live acts.

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Boutique cinema FC Hyena programmes a mix of art-house and popular films across two screens, each with comfy home made seating.

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Kaboom is the annual film festival for the latest and best in animation. It is a massive showcase for a wide range of animation films: from wonderfully bizarre experimental art-house to colourful crowd-pleas ers for the whole family. Alongside the extensive screenings throughout the city of animated feature films and shorts (for children and adults), you can also discover what’s new in the world of gaming and immersive media (VR), along with various interactive installations.

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A stone’s throw from Rembrandt plein, the Pathé’s Royal Theatre

Tuschinski was voted the most stunning movie theatre in the world. Commissioned by Abraham Icek Tuschinski in 1921, the building blends several designs, with a heavy emphasis on Art Deco. Like the décor, the films are also a mix of styles; Hollywood blockbusters play alongside art-house darlings. Be sure to arrive early enough to admire the ornate ceiling. Tip: to up the date-night ante, book a private old-school love seat.

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Pathé Tuschinski

Situated in one of the oldest parts of Amsterdam, Noorderkerk is an idyllic setting for a Saturday matinee classical concert. NOORDERMARKT 44 NOORDERKERKCONCERTEN.NL

Classical & Jazz

Riverside music

Muziekgebouw aan ‘t IJ (Piet Heinkade 1, muziekgebouw.nl) is an internationally leading stage that excels in its inspirational and innovative programme of contemporary music and the related genres of classical, jazz, electronic pop and world music. Top tips for this season: the Kurtág Festival, a tribute to Hungarian composer György Kurtág (8-11 March) and the Minimal Music Festival (12-16 April). While you’re there, don’t forget to take in the fabulous view of the River IJ from the

Muziekgebouw Café. Next door, Bimhuis (Piet Heinkade 3, bimhuis.nl) was one of the fi rst venues to put Amsterdam jazz fi rmly on the map as a leader in Europe. The venue shares a bespoke performance space with the Muziekgebouw, with a wood-panelled room that caters to the best Dutch players and a revolving array of international jazz talents – always with outstanding acoustics and atmosphere. Watch out for their Flamenco Biennale, wehere jazz and flamenco come together in a fantastic festival.

Royal Concertgebouw

This renowned concert venue, acclaimed for its exquisite acoustics and top-quality programming, is the stomping ground for the Royal Concertgebouw Orchestra. Completed in 1888, the impressive building overlooking Museumplein has been the centre for classical music in the Netherlands for well over a century. It houses three beautiful performance spaces: the grand Main Hall for orchestral blockbusters, the Recital Hall for quartets and chamber music, and the Choir Hall for more intimate recitals. Keep an eye on the programming for free lunchtime concerts throughout the year and the Passion concert series, which occurs at beautiful venues across the city over Easter.

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Jazz Café Alto

Get ready for a night of swinging tunes at Alto, an old-school jazz café hailing back to 1953. Doors open at 9 pm and the music starts at 10 pm and goes till 3 am (or 4 am during the weekend). Early Monday evenings are reserved for jazz sessions. Expect to hear a range of jazz and blues artists, from young up-and-comers to experienced professionals jamming together in the cosy bohemian surroundings.

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Pop & Rock

For full listings of what’s on in Amsterdam, visit our website: iamsterdam.com/ whatson

Paradiso

Probably Amsterdam’s most iconic music venue, Paradiso is a former church that was squatted in the 1960s and grew into a renowned performance space where all the greats have played. While evolving and embracing modern sound and light technology, Paradiso holds onto its religious history through the large stained-glass panels that loom behind the performers, as well as two levels of balconies that transform any concert into a reverential affair. Upstairs and in the basement are smaller rooms where newer or lesser-known bands and DJs typically play. Paradiso irrevocably remains the Pop Temple of Amsterdam.

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Melkweg

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Mega music halls

For all that’s big in the entertainment world, ArenA Boulevard is the place to be. This is where you’ll want to be if you’re looking for mega pop and rock concerts. Ziggo Dome (De Passage 100, ziggodome.nl) is the city’s largest multi-purpose venue, with balconies swooping around the boxy arena, with the stalls either all-standing or all-seated, depending on the event. There are various bars and eateries, ensuring that thousands of visitors are satisfied before, during and after the performances. AFAS Live (Johan Cruijff Boulevard 590, afaslive.nl) boasts a capacity of 6,000. Whether you’re standing at the front or seated in the sloped, open area at the back, it’s easy to keep focus on the artists on stage. And then there’s the Ajax stadium, the Johan Cruijff ArenA (Johan Cruijff Boulevard 1, johancruijffarena.nl), where the soccer field is transformed into a stage to host the biggest artists.

Melkweg takes its name from the Milky Way galaxy – but the name also reflects the building’s history as a former dairy factory. The venue is split into two darker, boxy spaces designed to showcase live music: The Max main concert hall and the more intimate Old Hall. Keep an eye on their agenda for the best in pop concerts, from singer-songwriters to glamrock, reggae and punk. You’ll also find a cinema dedicated to screening music documentaries, a theatre, the café MILK and the gallery space Melkweg EXPO for emerging, home-grown photographers. LIJNBAANSGRACHT 234A, MELKWEG.NL

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Bitterzoet has established itself as one of Amsterdam’s core music venues, for everyone from lovers of rock through punk,hip-hop and funk to reggae – and everything in between.

Find out everything there is to know about Amsterdam’s best places for a night out on the town – plus the city’s clubbing history –on page 6.

BRET Clubbing

Dousing a slightly grey corner of Sloterdijk with a much-needed splash of vibrancy, Bret is a beer bar, restaurant and music venue that hosts some magical club nights. Made entirely from shipping containers, the innovative space conceals various cosy nooks and seating areas. The spectacular garden rooftop with plenty of outdoor space makes it an excellent venue for some of the city’s best day parties. Generally, the programming leans towards house and techno from local DJs and bigger international names.

ORLYPLEIN 76, BRET.BAR

Escape

Always teeming with energetic young things, Escape is a veritable evergreen of Amsterdam’s nightlife scene. The musical menu covers all popular styles of dance music with world-famous

DJs – such as Tiësto, David Guetta, Paul van Dyk, Kevin Saunderson and Todd Terry – frequently in position behind the decks.

REMBRANDTPLEIN 11, ESCAPE.NL

Shelter

Experience underground clubbing at its finest. Literally. Shelter is the name of the subterranean nightclub and exhibition space located in the basement of the landmark A’DAM Tower on Amsterdam’s northern waterfront. The programming is set on curating sounds from all types of electronic music, showcasing electronica from the defining outreaches of the industry.

OVERHOEKSPLEIN 3, SHELTERAMSTERDAM.NL

Club NYX

NYX is a club open to all sexual persuasions – encouraging LGBTQI+ clubbers to take their straight friends with them. The space is spread over three floors and hosts performances and club nights catering to various musical tastes, from the (in)famous drag shows to grinding your way through the 1990s and 2000s. Expect to hear all your favourite guilty pleasures.

REGULIERSDWARSSTRAAT 42 CLUBNYX.NL

Light Festival

During Amsterdam Light Festival, the city transforms into a real-life sparkling and glowing fairy tale. Look through the light and let your fantasy run wild.

Book a historic boat to experience the light route at its very best. A cruise takes about 75 minutes and there are several boat companies and departure locations.

Light Gate (US)

Flow through this monumental 11-metretall arch, the first artwork of the route. The piece, by architect and visual artist Edwin Baruch (US), is made of illuminated metal mesh, created especially for this year's edition. Make sure your smartphone is charged – on the digital map you can learn everything about the works and the artists.

Fairy Tale City

With around 20 illuminating light artworks scattered around the eastern side of the Canal Ring, the 11th edition of Amsterdam Light Festival lets you journey into a world of imagination this year's theme being Imagine Beyond. In December and January the lights are on daily from 5 pm until 11 pm (or 8 pm on New Year's Eve). The art-works can be admired from both water and land, on a route that is about 6.5 kilometres long. Get your tickets online or at the I amsterdam Store, listen to the audio guide on board of a canal cruise, let the skipper tell you all the stories or walk past the artworks with the digital route map. By foot or by boat, you’ll be inspired by the extraordinary works of light art along the way.

Spin me a Yarn (UK)

A giant ball of wool has fallen from an old crane, and now floats across the water. The unusually large scale forces you to view this work by Studio Vertigo in a completely different way, playfully changing the meaning of our relationship to ordinary objects and our environment. Can you follow the illuminated thread and find the secret second ball?

Bloomlight (NL)

VOUW’s artwork Bloomlight consists of five giant street lanterns that light up and react to walkers and boats passing by. This Amsterdam creation starts bending towards the first person it detects, while the top of the lantern opens and unfurls a bloom of soft light. An extraordinary interaction that uses technology to bring people together.

Skate with the Rijksmuseum as a phenomenal backdrop at ICE*Amsterdam. Pull your ice skates on or simply watch the action and take in the festive atmosphere.

MUSEUMPLEIN, ICEAMSTERDAM.NL

Amsterdamse Bos

Located on the city’s edge, Amsterdamse Bos (Amsterdam Forest) is the city’s largest recreational area. The lush woodlands and grassy meadows offer plenty of space for a relaxing family picnic, and the park is crossed by many kilometres of well-marked walking and cycling routes. For the more adventurous, there are opportunities for canoe and kayak rental and the Klimbos Fun Forest (closed in winter), a treetop zipline course built for grown-ups and kids alike. Also worth a visit is the Ridammerhoeve Goat Farm, where little ones can entertain themselves with various hands-on activities amongst the animals or simply enjoy a goat’s milk hot chocolate from the café.

BOSBAANWEG 3, FUNFOREST.NL NIEUWE MEERLAAN 4, GEITENBOERDERIJ.NL

Artis

Home to more than 750 animal species, Artis Zoo is one of Amsterdam’s most prominent family attractions. Time your visit to coincide with feeding times for some splashy spectacles (the penguins are a must-see). Next door, Micropia is dedicated to the tiniest but most powerful things on our planet: microbes. The dark exhibition space is packed with live laboratory demonstrations and microscopes you can peer into to see how living organisms move, eat and reproduce. And for the most inquisitive, Het Groote Museum (the museum of big questions) aims to answer your burning questions about science, natural history and human existence.

PLANTAGE KERKLAAN 38-40, ARTIS.NL, MICROPIA.NL, GROOTEMUSEUM.NL

NEMO Science Museum

It’s all about discovery and interactivity at NEMO. Kids will love the playful exhibitions where they can experience the wonders of science and technology to their heart’s content, like blowing giant bubbles and making rainbows. Moreover, the museum’s iconic building in the city’s Eastern Docklands is a must-see for architecture fans. The rooftop terrace boasts some of the most spectacular views of downtown Amsterdam, complete with kinetic water sculptures that kids can play in and a café.

OOSTERDOK 2, NEMOSCIENCEMUSEUM.NL

For full listings of what’s on in Amsterdam, visit our website: iamsterdam.com/ whatson

National Maritime Museum

Offering endless entertainment for sea-faring families, The National Maritime Museum brings together a mammoth collection of maritime objects, not to mention a life-size replica of VOC Ship Amsterdam moored on the jetty outside – you can’t miss it. Start your swashbuckling tour with hands-on activities that illustrate life aboard a real 18th-century ship, then marvel at paintings, models of ships, navigational instruments and maps. Learn all about how Dutch sailors navigated the seas and how their travels impacted the world at large. KATTENBURGERPLEIN 1 HETSCHEEPVAARTMUSEUM.COM

© ARTIS, RONALD VAN WEEREN

Attractions

The Royal Palace

The Royal Palace Amsterdam’s is a building brimming with secret symbols and hidden meanings and is still used by the Dutch royal family for official visits. Visitors can learn about the building’s rich history. Its uses – a century and a half as Amsterdam’s City Hall, fi ve years as a

For full listings of what’s on in Amsterdam, visit our website: iamsterdam.com/ whatson

Royal and Imperial Palace, and almost two centuries as a reception palace for the House of Orange – have left their mark. An annual changing exhibition illustrates the rich history of the building, including as a monument from the 17th century.

DAM SQUARE, PALEISAMSTERDAM.NL

Rembrandts Amsterdam Experience

Step back 350 years in time at this spectacular 5D attraction. Enter Rembrandt’s last studio, where you will be taken on a journey through the life of Amsterdam’s most famous painter. Here you’ll meet Rembrandt, his mistress Hendrickje, son Titus and daughter Cornelia. Eager to discover more? There’s also a walking tour that guides you through Rembrandt’s Amsterdam.

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JOHAN CRUIJFF BOULEVARD 1 JOHANCRUIJFFARENA.NL

A’DAM Tower

Tower of many talents, A’DAM opened in early 2016 as one of Amsterdam’s most exciting nightlife and creative hubs. The building is home to a boutique hotel, a nightclub, and a selection of top-notch bars and eateries – including cocktail bar MADAM and the revolving restaurant MOON, on the 19th floor. On the observation deck, you can also find Europe’s highest swing, which allows daredevils to take a seat soaring high above our beloved city’s impressive skyline. To get to the top floors, take the elevator: it’s mini light show is spectacular.

OVERHOEKSPLEIN 1, ADAMTOREN.NL

Canal cruising

Whether you’re a first-time or frequent visitor, Amsterdam’s interwoven network of 165 canals is all the more magical when viewed from the water. Glide past the city’s historic offerings on one of the famous canal cruises, witnessing 16th-century churches, elegant canal house façades and iconic drawbridges such as the Magere Brug (Skinny Bridge) from a new angle. Want to know how and where to rent a boat or book a tour? Search ‘canal cruise’ on iamsterdam.com.

This is Holland flight experience

Don’t miss the This is Hollland flight simulation, where astonishing special eff ects projected on a giant domed screen will give you the breathtaking sensation of fl ying over the Dutch landscape.

OVERHOEKSPLEIN 51, THISISHOLLAND.COM

Heineken Experience

Housed inside Heineken’s historic brewery, this interactive museum will take you on an exciting, behind-the-scenes journey through the world of one of Europe’s most popular pilsners. After Heineken constructed a new brewery on the outskirts of Amsterdam, they converted their former home into a museum. Now dubbed the Heineken Experience, it offers four floors of multimedia exhibits, historical brewing artefacts, a tasting bar and the opportunity to engrave your very own beer bottle.

STADHOUDERSKADE 78, HEINEKENEXPERIENCE.COM

Hortus Botanicus

From delicate little cacti to towering palms, those with even a mild interest in botany will be genuinely taken by one of the oldest botanical gardens in the world. Initially founded in 1638 to serve as a herb garden for the city’s doctors and pharmacists, the grounds contain over 6,000 indigenous and non-native tree and plant species. In addition to a gorgeous café, outdoor gardens, and a ‘hothouse’ that emulates three different tropical environments, hundreds of majestic butterflies can be found frolicking inside the Butterfly House.

PLANTAGE MIDDENLAAN 2A, DEHORTUS.NL

Diehard football buff s can book a behind-the-scenes tour to see parts of the Johan Cruijff ArenA – the home turf of Amsterdam’s beloved team, Ajax – that are typically reserved for officials and players.

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Festivals & Events

Amsterdam Light Festival

Each winter Amsterdam transforms into a real-life fairy tale, sparkling with glowing artwork illuminating the city’s historic bridges and waterfronts. Installations adorn the canal ring, the River Amstel and several other locations around the city, taking the city’s already stunning nighttime sights to an entirely new level. Want to know more? Turn to page 42 for our top tips.

National holidays

Easter music festivals

Amsterdam’s music festival season opens with a bang in April with DGTL, a three-day event dedicated to underground electronic music at NDSM-Wharf (7-9 April). Next is Awakenings, the country’s most legendary techno event, always boasting an exceptional line-up full of surprises and special guests.

DGTL.NL AWAKENINGS.COM

Spring in the Netherlands is packed full of national holidays. On King’s Day (April 27), over a million orange-clad revellers from all over the country descend onto the streets and canals of Amsterdam for parties, secondhand markets and family events. You'll even find amateur musicians showing off their talents across the city. A few weeks later, Amsterdam’s citizens pause to pay their respects to civilians and members of the armed forces who have died in conflicts (May 4) with a national Remembrance Day ceremony at Dam Square. Then it’s time for a national party on May 5, as the crowds take to the streets to celebrate the liberation of the Netherlands (Bevrijdingsdag) at the end of World War II.

Tulp (Tulip) Festival

Enjoy a colourful journey of discovery along dozens of locations from Noord to Zuidoost as hundreds of thousands of tulips bloom during this festival and brighten up Amsterdam’s streets throughout April.

Photo from a previous edition of Amsterdam Light Festival

Explore

neighbourhoods City Guide ’s

Amsterdam’s

TEXT: VERITY SEWARD, STEVEN STRIJBOSCH, TEXT SHOPPING: KARIN ENGELBRECHT

Amsterdam School streets

Like a church in the centre of a village, Museum Het Schip forms the centre of the Spaarndammerbuurt. The building, designed by architect Michel de Klerk, is the epitome of the Amsterdam School architectural movement and was originally a public housing complex. Today it serves as a museum that also offers guided tours around the area, where you can learn everything about architecture and design from the early 20th century.

OOSTZAANSTRAAT 45, HETSCHIP.NL

NDSM Wharf

Sip on a glass of wine while you sample a fine cheese platter at Fromagerie Abraham Kef, complete with olives and pates from De Pasteibakkerij.

VAN DER PEKPLEIN 1B, ABRAHAMKEF.NL

Across the River

Quirky Amsterdam Noord boasts the best of contrasting worlds, with historic streets and hip waterside hangouts around every corner.

Cranes stand tall, marking the horizon of Amsterdam Noord (North) with an ode to its industrial past and the many new developments popping up across the River IJ. In recent decades, this quirky and rapidly-evolving neighbourhood has begun to host increasingly more cutting-edge architecture, exciting festivals, museums, gig venues, fantastic dining options and trendy waterfront bars. A free ferry from behind Central Station will take you there in minutes, so don’t miss your chance to explore this unique area of Amsterdam.

Alternative culture and green expanses

When you step o the ferry, the wide IJplein promenade leads visitors to various attractions with eye-catching architecture, such as the Eye Filmmuseum and A’DAM Tower. Trendy food and drink hotspots such as Chateau Amsterdam, Bacalar and Hotel de Goudfazant redefine industrial-chic while music venues such as Tolhuistuin, Garage Noord and cinema FC Hyena have grown the area into a much-revered bastion of Amsterdam’s

alternative culture. Make your way through the urban jungle and the lush green Noorderpark, and you’ll find the gateway to spectacular Dutch countryside dotted with historic villages such as Durgerdam and Ransdorp

Shipyard turned creative paradise

Alternatively, take the ferry slightly west towards NDSMWharf. Repurposed into a cultural haven with a reputation for rebellious creativity and groundbreaking street art, this former shipyard was once the largest in the Netherlands. The urban plaza is now packed with art spaces, magnificent new restaurants, terraces overlooking the water and buzzing nightlife options. Pllek and IJ-kantine are perfectly laid-back spots to have lunch and cocktails with superb river views or to dance the night away under the stars. Nearby, the eco-project and restaurant Café de Ceuvel exudes innovation with a sustainability focus. Twice a month, treasure hunters can rummage through stalls packed with vintage threads, vinyl records and knick-knacks when Europe’s largest flea market IJ-Hallen takes over.

‘I love to relax at NDSM after work. It’s such an interesting area.’

Tomas Kane (38), electrician

For more information on Amsterdam Noord check out the Neighbourhood Guide on our website: iamsterdam.com/ neighbourhoods

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© DAVE PELHAM

Chateau Amsterdam

How do you make wine in the middle of the city when there are no vineyards in sight? By bringing the grapes in from Europe. In collaboration with grape farmers from all over Europe, more than 20 wines are made in urban winery Chateau Amsterdam, located by the River IJ. There’s an Urban Wine Tasting where you learn all about the complete process from grape to bottle, a shop, a wine bar, and a restaurant that serves Italian dishes with a South-European twist. All served with Amsterdam-made wine, of course.

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Noorderpark

A hub of activity, Noorderpark abounds with cultural hotspots and places to unwind. De Tanker e (Nieuwe Leeuwarderweg 15, detanker.nl) is a former gas station turned community centre where you can enjoy everything from concerts to creative workshops, while café-restaurant Pompet r (Floraparkweg 1, pompet.nl) adds a touch of French finesse to the neighbourhood.

Buy Signed by You’s sustainable ankle boots (€299) made from surplus leather and suede at concept store Pek & Kleren.

VAN DER PEKSTRAAT 56-58, PEK-EN-KLEREN.NL

SEXYLAND World

Utterly experimental and always unexpected, SEXYLAND World is a cultural clubhouse that operates under a not-forprofit model with a different owner daily. That means you could find anything on the agenda, from drag performances, community cook-offs and poetry slams to knitting groups, talks and a kaleidoscopic array of club nights. Upstairs, Order Sichuan is a vibey spot for tongue-numbing dishes complemented by great water views.

NOORDWAL 1, SEXYLAND.WORLD

De Ceuvel

This unique café-restaurant with an adjacent floating hotel and stunning outdoor space was built as a green tech experiment over what was once a polluted harbour. Everything about De Ceuvel promotes sustainability, including the vegan menu, fascinating aquaponics greenhouse and composters for kitchen waste. Nextdoor, book a spot in the hot tubs and saunas at BADHUS, a stunning eco-spa inspired by the Nordic winter-bathing tradition.

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KORTE PAPAVERWEG 4, DECEUVEL.NL

Arty NDSM

NDSM i has been a hotspot for culture since the 1980s when Amsterdam’s edgy artistic community found a home in the disused shipyard buildings. Today the wharf conceals a bountiful array of ateliers and galleries centred around NDSM Fuse (NDSM-Plein 29, ndsm-fuse.eu) – a gigantic exhibition hall. Catch exhibitions dedicated to a broad spectrum of art forms, from mind-blowing installations and massive sculptural works to fascinating performances or multimedia pieces. Nearby, artist-driven project spaces such as Nieuw Dakota (Ms. van Riemsdijkweg 41B, nieuwdakota.com) and On the Inside (TT. Melaniaweg 1, projectspaceontheinside.org) offer equally challenging programming for an afternoon of gallery hopping.

Ceramic Studio

Marjoke de Heer

Tucked away in the rural north, a short cycle from the Schellingwouder bridge, there’s a charming ceramics studio where you’ll find Marjoke de Heer’s one-of-a-kind handmade pieces, including stunning stoneware plates, bowls and vases beloved by Dutch cookbook creators.

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MARJOKEDEHEER.COM

NoordOogst

Just west of NDSM, the NoordOogst Urban Agriculture Project is the home base of several initiatives that inspire green thinking. Stop by for bi-monthly farmer’s markets or eat freshly picked veggies and sip local beers at POF. This family-friendly restaurant only serves produce grown in its immediate surroundings, including all the vegetables and locally-reared meat and cheese products. Only the beans and cinnamon for your cup of coffee are imported. The project also has a playground for children surrounded by trees, wild gardens and water.

METEORENWEG 272, NOORDOOGST.ORG

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BETWEEN AMSTEL AND IJ

Housed in a former bath house next to a proper Dutch windmill, Brouwerij ’t IJ was an independent local microbrewery long before anyone dreamed up the modern terminology.

FUNENKADE 7, BROUWERIJHETIJ.NL

East-side Story

Full of green spaces, cultural centres and eateries, Oost is expanding rapidly while retaining its unique community charm.

Venture over the River Amstel to Amsterdam Oost (east), where trendy wine bars and microbreweries sit alongside nostalgic barbershops and thrift stores. The spacious streets lined by 19th-century buildings are interspersed with lush parks, vibrant culture spots and an impeccable restaurant scene.

Foodie hotspots

The heart of Oost beats at the Dappermarkt, Amsterdam’s oldest market, where more than 200 stalls are loaded with patterned textiles, fresh fish, colourful fruits and flowers. The famous market was ranked in the top ten best shopping streets in the world by National Geographic Traveler. On sunny days, crowds gather on the terraces of the many breweries in this part of the city, including KRUX Brouwwerf, Poesiat & Kater and Badhuis Oedipus. Famously, Brouwerij ‘t IJ’s iconic taproom is located under a historic windmill. Further east, green and lush Flevopark contains its very own distillery, ‘t Nieuwe Diep, serving the beloved Dutch genever

from its tranquil lakeside tasting room. Especially nice on cold and crisp days. Elsewhere in the ’hood, restaurants such as Michelin awardwinning De Kas are real locals’ darlings, while favourites The Cottage and Wilde Zwijnen redefine casual fine dining. For real holiday vibes, head to Javastraat with its abundance of trendy restaurants and cafés such as Bar Basquiat, Mitts and Le French Café, culinary wine bars, traditional Turkish bakeries, Surinamese supermarkets and Middle Eastern lunchrooms.

Cultural paradise

Besides popular food and drink spots, Oost has one of the most diverse and vibrant cultural offerings. It’s home to the monumental Tropenmuseum, one of Europe’s leading anthropologi cal museums that also hosts interest ing temporary exhibitions, as well as quirky institutions such as Tot Zover (the Funeral Museum). Multidiscipli nary venues such as Framer Framed showcase cutting-edge contemporary art, while Studio/K is a hotspot for pioneering cinema and DJ talent.

INSIDER TIP

‘One of my favourite walks is along the Amstel to Zorgvlied, a beautiful cemetery where many famous writers are buried.’

Abel Bosma (25), sculptor

Park Frankendael

In the 18th century, dozens of imposing summer residences for wealthy Amsterdammers lined the streets of Oost. Today, only Huize Frankendael w (Middenweg 72, huizefrankendael.nl) remains, home to a restaurant, culture barn and music salon. You’ll also find restaurant De Kas e (Kamerlingh Onneslaan 3, restaurantdekas.com) in the park, in a giant greenhouse where dishes are made with what’s picked from the garden that same day.

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EAST

A restaurant, and the perfect hangout or work spot with all-day brunch and specialty coffee, EAST caters for every moment of the day. On the menu is worldwide-inspired comfort food such as okonomiyaki, homemade rendang spring rolls and boneless Iberico ribs. And let’s not forget the cocktails: every Thursday, EAST celebrates Little Friday with a specialty cocktail for €5.

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Find hand-painted Doing Goods vases (from €35) at sustainable warehouse Het Faire Oosten.

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BEST HIDDEN SHOPPING STREET

Repose Ams

The brand store of this Amsterdam-based conscious kidswear label (ages 0-14) is a place where ‘comfort and design are in perfect harmony with colour, form and texture’ and where ‘the endless imaginations of young dreamers connect with the aesthetics of adult ones in unique pieces that last,’ according to founder In-Yeo Couperus.

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Javastraat

Javastraat u is the bustling artery of Zeeburg, with a dense concentration of dining options for all budgets. We can’t get enough of the falafel from Tigris & Eufraat (Javastraat 20, tigriseneufraat-amsterdam.nl), a Middle Eastern deli with an understandable line out the door. Book a table at Mitts (Javastraat 49A, barmitts.nl) for impeccable mezze with delicious veggie options. Or, kick back with a cold beer and live DJ streams at Badhuis Oedipus (Javaplein 21, oedipus.com).

Middenweg

Once lined with manorial country estates owned by wealthy merchants in the Dutch Golden Age, this popular shopping street has a selection of specialist stores, from luxe lingerie at Kant and hip fashion for the whole family at Biggles, Kleinberlijn and Lemonade to books at Linnaeus Boekhandel and organic baked goods at Le Perron

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INSIDER INTERVIEW

The Black Archives

This historical archive creates a platform for inspiring conversations, exhibitions, activities and literature from (often overlooked) Black and other perspectives. The exhibition Facing Blackness, about the image of Blackness and the resistance against it, is on show until the end of February.

ZEEBURGERDIJK 19B, THEBLACKARCHIVES.NL i

‘I’ve worked in the wine industry my whole professional life, including eight years at a wine importer. I also have a WSET Level 4 Diploma in Wines. Our wines reflect the character of their region, based on the French idea of terroir. We offer wines that are very hard to come by – at every price level. My favourite Champagne is the Oiry Grand Cru Blanc de Blancs made by Aurelien Suenen (€52.50), a beautiful and lively Chardonnay. I’ve called Oost home since 2011 and just fell in love with the neighbourhood. But I missed a real wine specialist with a broad selection. So when this amazing building in the Pretoriusstraat became available, I knew it was time. There are many other great food shops on the street as well as a good barber, the best coffee in Amsterdam – Rum Baba –and many restaurants.’

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Eric van de Lustgraaf (35), owner of Cave de l’Est wine

Go to Cinetol for a night of live music, from alternative bands and indie pop to jazz and punk acts.

TOLSTRAAT 182, CINETOL.NL

Southern Belle

From age-old art to high-end chic, the stately museums and up-market boutiques of OudZuid (Old South) lend the district a luxurious edge. The crown jewel is Museumplein, where the stately Rijksmuseum presides, flaunting 800 years of Dutch art history. It’s also home to the Van Gogh Museum, Stedelijk Museum and the Royal Concertgebouw, giving the area its Museum District nickname.

Streets of luxury Just off Museumplein, you’ll find an array of designer shops and luxury ho tels sprinkled along the flashy P.C. Hooftstraat up to the Willemspark weg. Surrounded by gorgeous villas and tranquil curving streets, the near by Vondelpark – created in the style of an English landscape garden – is the city’s most popular playground. A mag net for picnickers, visitors flock in their droves during the warmer months to the numerous outdoor performances, exhibitions and festivals that take place there.

Bohemian vibes

Zuid also boasts its own Latin Quarter, De Pijp. This bohemian neighbour hood oozes village-like charm and beatnik flair and is a popular haunt for creatives, young internationals and students. The district’s main arteries, Albert Cuypstraat and Ferdinand Bolstraat are a true melting pot of na tionalities and every conceivable cui sine. From Middle Eastern and North African lunchrooms to high-end teppa nyaki and Vietnamese street food, the neighbourhood’s cultural diversity shines through in its restaurants.

Along the famous Albert Cuyp street market, brunch spots and juice bars are nestled amongst historic bruine cafés and old-school fruit and veg stalls. Perfectly blending old and new, you could just as easily pick up a poké bowl as a fresh herring sandwich. The area is also a lively after-work hangout, with streets such as the Eerste van der Helststraat brimming with buzzing cocktail bars and terraces, drawing in revellers from all over the city every evening.

(From left to right): Dorus van der Meer (16), Selinay Ozaydinli (16), Livanur Yanaliogli (16), Maria Rili (16) and Jahlayna Knuijsting (15), all students

‘Museumplein is the perfect place to hang out with friends.’

Stroll along avenues and unwind in tranquil parks – Zuid provides antiquated charm with cosmopolitan elegance.

INSIDER TIP

© DAVE PELHAM

Zuid

Beatrixpark

Named after the much-beloved former Dutch queen, Beatrixpark w is situated behind the RAI conference centre. Take a stroll around the floral beds and the medicinal herb gardens, passing by pavilions that are remains of the 1972 Floriade exhibition. Just across the canal, you’ll find the Strandzuid/Zuidpool restaurant (Europaplein 22, strand-zuid. nl), with a floating terrace perfect for lunch, dinner or drinks.

Molteni&C|Dada Amsterdam Flagship Store

Visit the ‘Best New Skyscraper in the World’, to admire 800m2 of Italian designer furniture and kitchens. Up the private lift, there’s also a bar and vegetarian restaurant, Green gastrobar, entirely furnished with Molteni&C|Dada products in collaboration with Co van der Horst, one of the leading lights in Dutch interior design. Breathtaking!

BEETHOVENSTRAAT 305 AMSTERDAM.MOLTENIGROUP.COM e

For more information on Amsterdam Zuid check out the Neighbourhood Guide on our website: iamsterdam.com/ neighbourhoods

’t Blauwe Theehuis

Parked in the very centre of Vondelpark, ’t Blauwe Theehuis resembles a giant teacup crossed with a spaceship, surrounded by a large terrace. Outdoor heaters make it a great spot to warm up with a gluhwein in winter, and in the spring, it’s the perfect spot to kick back with a beer to watch the passing crowd.

VONDELPARK 5, BROUWERIJHETIJ.NL/

TAPROOM-HET-BLAUWE-THEEHUIS

Brunch hotspots

Elsa Peretti’s best-selling bone cuff’s been a style statement for over 50 years (from €1,550 at Tiffany & Co).

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Transform your tired tresses into Hollywood hair with Philip B’s Scalp Booster (€95 at niche beauty boutique Babassu Beauty).

CORNELIS SCHUYTSTRAAT 40, BABASSU.NL

Felice Home of Brands

Situated on one of Amsterdam’s most interesting indie shopping streets, this address for ScandiDutch décor, lifestyle products and fashion items is a must-visit for 1970s ceramics, scented candles and abstract terracotta sculptures as well as minimalist jewellery and the snuggliest sweatshirts.

Cornelis Schuytstraat

While nearby P.C. Hooftstraat is the famous splurging spot for luxe labels, this charming street − often described as ‘Little Paris’ − offers more avant-garde fashion boutiques, a designer vintage store, mouth-watering patisseries and delicatessen, and the city’s fanciest flower shop and greengrocers.

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De Pijp boasts some of the best breakfast and brunch spots in Amsterdam, and exceptional coffee goes without saying. Little Collins u (Eerste Sweelinckstraat 19F, littlecollins.nl) gives you a taste of Australia’s exemplary brunch culture, Bakers & Roasters i (Eerste Jacob van Campenstraat 54, bakersandroasters. com) has one of the most varied menus in town and Scandinavian Embassy o (Sarphatipark 34, scandinavianembassy. nl) serves Swedish ka along with artisan coffee.

GERARD

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Museum De Dageraad

Head to De Dageraad to learn about the fascinating style of expressionist architecture known as the Amsterdam School and take a guided tour around the elaborate residential complex. The museum is also the perfect starting point for an architecture walk around the neighbourhood. You’ll find many more examples of the rounded brickwork and characteristic facades in De Pijp’s houses and government buildings.

BURGEMEESTER TELLEGENSTRAAT 128, HETSCHIP.NL s

COSMOPOLITAN

COSY

Bosboom Toussaintstraat

For fun home accessories such as these cement Boob Planters (€9.99) and trendy own-brand jewellery and clothing, head to Things I Like Things I Love.

EERSTE CONSTANTIJN HUYGENSSTRAAT, JAN EVERTSENSTRAAT 106 THINGSILIKETHINGSILOVE.COM

West-kept Secrets

Bursting with flavour, there’s plenty to see, eat and do in every pocket of the ever-expanding West.

Originally a residential area for working-class families, West is a prime example of how Amsterdam revitalised its neighbourhoods outside the Canal Ring. More than fifteen years ago, the old gas factories in peaceful Westerpark were revamped and transformed. Today, Westergas is one of the city’s cultural powerhouses, overflowing with nightlife options, restaurants and even a retro arcade bar. There’s plenty to enjoy, including festivals, films and live music, with lots of bites and booze on o er.

The energy of Oud-West

In the same vein, tranquil Oud-West (Old West) has come out of its residential snooze. This cosmopolitan area is full of shops and eateries interspersed between the leafy avenues that border Vondelpark. Busy shopping streets such as De Clercqstraat and Kinkerstraat run parallel, while Bilderdijkstraat pumps energy into

the area with its many bars, restaurants and boutiques. A diverse selection of food, vintage fashion and films are available at De Hallen, an old tram depot turned indie cultural centre.

BoLo

The western expansion continues further to Bos en Lommer and De Baarsjes, two districts that are becoming hipper and more happening faster than you can say ‘BoLo’. Boasting an array of speciality co e joints, cosy canalside bars, cool art spaces, neighbourhood parks, and a young and multicultural crowd, this corner of Amsterdam is rapidly expanding into one of the city’s most dynamic creative outposts. Don’t miss the distinctive Amsterdam School-style architecture around Mercatorplein and Spaarndammerbuurt, featuring thick, sculptural brick and Art Deco aesthetic notes.

‘If you walk a bit further to the end of Westerpark, to the farm with horses, goats and sheep, it feels like you’re not even in the city anymore.’

Jocelyn Buma (38), merchandising assistant

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Johnny at the Spot

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Bar Baarsch

A super cosy, atmospheric café for lunch and dinner, Bar Baarsch offers charcoal-grilled fish and meat. Test your grey cells at their pub quiz every Monday, and taste their G&T ’s every Thursday. On every other day, this is the perfect place for drinks with friends.

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The luminous exhibition space of Ravestijn Gallery is home to solo presentations by some of the most curious and provocative international photographers working today.

De Hallen

Housed in a converted tram depot that’s had something of a facelift, De Hallen comprises a great range of artisan shops, exhibition spaces and the monthly Maker Market, where innovators and designers from across the city sell handmade wares. There’s also De Filmhallen, the largest independent cinema in the Netherlands, a hip hotel, and an indoor food court, De Foodhallen, packed with dozens of pop-up eateries for dim sum, fried chicken, pho, tacos and more.

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statement lingerie such as this racy lacy top by OPAAK (€219).

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The cosy pavilion café Terrasmus in Erasmuspark is a true hidden gem, perfect for a bite or a coffee.

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HIPPEST SHOPPING STREET

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In 1899 nine badly-built houses col lapsed on this then-impoverished street, but things have greatly im proved since, and today you’ll find hip women’s fashion at Gesponnen Suiker, holistic skincare treatments at Weleda City Spa, vintage and modern furniture at Dolores Del Dia, and artisan sourdough bread and natural wines at Levain et Le Vin

REM-Eiland

At this towering sea rig in the harbour of Amsterdam, you can dine 22 metres above the water in a former pirate radio station. Named not after the American rock band but the REM law, which effectively shut down the station in 1964, the platform is now one of Amsterdam’s most unique restaurants. Cosy in the winter and glorious on a bright day, when guests can drink cocktails on the roof terrace, the restaurant is open for drinks, bites and evening meals.

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TonTon Club West

There are plenty of fantastic bars in and around Westerpark, but only one of them has retro arcade games and pinball ma chines. Enter into a neon world at Tonton Club West, an exciting gaming paradise spread across indoor and outdoor areas, making for a suitably competitive first date location all year round. Highlights on the fusion menu include yakitori chicken skewers, dumplings and bao buns.

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Westergas

This complex of late 19th-century industrial buildings in Westerpark was once the city’s gasworks. After a complete redevelopment in 2003, it reopened as a cultural complex, housing a selection of independent shops, galleries, trendy restaurants and exciting venues. Every first Sunday of the month, the area fills up with food trucks, live bands and stalls where you can browse for unique locally made items – from ceramics to affordable art – and vintage fashion. Brouwerij Troost (Pazzanistraat 25-27, brouwerijtroost.nl) and Pacific (Polonceaukade 23, pacificamsterdam.nl) are the places to be for sun-soaked terrace beers and after-work drinks. And you can expect a curation of the coolest sounds and sexiest pizzas at RadioRadio (Pazzanistraat 3, radioradio.radio) – a DJ bar and restaurant where diners receive a discount on clubbing entrance.

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The Shop of Beautiful Things

You’d be hard-pressed to find the home décor and art at this gallery anywhere else. Situated on the furniture street in Amsterdam, the selection is carefully sourced from artisan suppliers across Europe. What every piece has in common is exquisite craftsmanship and understated elegance – with a twist. The Sankao coffee table (€6,900, in iroko wood or charcoal-stained ash), a celebration of circular geometries, is an excellent example of the aesthetic.

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Betjeman & Barton

Founded in Paris in 1919 but new to Amsterdam, this specialist offers over 100 varieties of tea and herbs and a nice selection of teapots, -sifters and other tableware, as well as edible goodies such as Maison Bruyère biscuits, Bacanha syrups and Cartwright & Butler fudge.

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Indulge in handmade Dutch chocolate with wrappers that are a feast for the eyes (€6.95) at Betjeman & Barton.

Podium Mozaïek

Located in the former Pniël Church, Podium Mozaïek provides a stage for a range of initiatives. Their programme offers music, theatre, dance and spoken word, generally focusing on language-no-problem performances. The café-restaurant is the perfect spot to indulge in Mediterranean-inspired seasonal dishes.

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Carlo Petroni, founder of Miuz

Gelato Artigianale

‘Does Amsterdam need another ice cream parlour? Yes it does, because many ice cream makers here still use prefab powders, colourings, flavourings or fruit pastes. Our gelato is freshly made from scratch with carefully sourced ingredients, which are slow-churned and stored the proper way in covered, circular containers. And, as in Italy, you order by size, not by the scoop (from €4 for a piccolo to €7 for a grande). Our craziest flavour is burrata. In Italy, it’s just another cheese, but the Dutch simply love it. And we have special gelato for your dog. My personal favourite is the classic nocciola, made with IGP hazelnuts from Piemonte. With Miuz Gelato Artigianale, we want to bring Italian classics to a whole new level. Think of how nNea changed the pizza scene. I want to do that for gelato. Amsterdam’s ready.’

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Nieuw-West

Cultural hotspots are popping up all over Nieuw-West, bringing social soul to this green and spacious neighbourhood.

The NotSo-New Kid

Built during the expansion of Amsterdam’s western neighbourhoods in the 1950s, Nieuw-West (New West) is the largest and greenest district in the city. Diverse and spacious, the area incorporates leafy residential streets with culturally rejuvenated former business parks

surrounding the tranquil Sloterplas. From Rembrandtpark up to residential neighbourhood Osdorp, you’ll find countless opportunities for relaxation and recreation –whether that’s cycling, kayaking, taking a stroll or stopping o at one of the area’s new and trendy co ee spots or lakeside terraces.

RADION

This multidisciplinary creative haven in a former medical o ce building puts on everything from sword- ghting workshops to booming techno nights. You’ll nd a steady ow of art, music, dance and other cultural events on the agenda, as well as cinema screenings and a café/bar serving lunch, dinner and drinks. LOUWESWEG 1

hobby boats around the harbour of Sloterplas.’

Catie Mayer (29), public relations manager, and Jaap Bakker (34), front end developer

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‘There’s a new place just opened called Boothuis where they serve pizza and pasta, and you can watch people sailing their

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Cultural highlights

But it’s not all peace and quiet at this end of town. Venues such as the Meervaart Theater and the Van Eesteren Museum are important cultural spaces, whilst RADION hosts everything from photo exhibitions to art fairs and booming techno nights. Meanwhile, new concepts pop up everywhere in the neighbourhood. Take the beer bar BRET, concealed in repurposed shipping containers with its own urban vineyard and roof garden. Or Hotel Buiten, a stylish eatery with urban beach pavilion charm on the shores of Sloterplas. Likewise, locals make great use of the area’s outdoor spaces, with a range of community festivals, sports events and food markets taking place throughout the year.

Historical village

Entering the ancient village of Sloten feels like stepping back in time, at least a few centuries. Here you’ll find the Sloten Windmill Museum – one of the few fully functioning polder mills in the Netherlands where you can learn all about milling techniques as well as how Rembrandt, the son of a miller, grew up.

Need a pick-me-up afterwards? Head next door to Brouwerij de 7 Deugden, one of the city’s best microbreweries, for a delicious craft beer.

Not an actual hotel, but homely nevertheless: Hotel Buiten is a cafe and urban beach next to the Sloterplas, made of recycled materials.

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Westmarket

At the heart of Nieuw-West, there’s a shopping centre where avour and style come together. Seeking a bejewelled hamsa? Authentic spices? Or a ordable fashion? It’s all located under one roof here. There’s a food court with traditional Turkish pide and Surinamese saoto soup, too.

Meervaart Theater

The beating heart of Nieuw-West’s cultural scene, Meervaart Theater is both a platform for the performing arts and an inuential social space. This modern venue hosts around 280 cultural performances annually, including shows by big international touring companies, home-grown multicultural cabaret acts and a special children’s talent development programme.

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Centrum

BEYOND THE CANALS

Using organic and local, seasonal pro duce, cute bakery De Laatste Kruimel serves a heap of sweet treats such as scones and cakes alongside quiches, sandwiches and fresh coffee and juice.

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Like a Postcard

The world-famous Canal Ring is a stunning sight to be sure, but there is so much more to Amster dam Centrum (Centre) than first meets the eye.

The cosmopolitan-yet-quaint village feel of Amsterdam’s Canal Ring is defined by its contrasts. De Wallen (The Red Light District) is a fantastic juxtaposition of historic churches, romantic bridges, age-old architec ture and late-night pursuits. Among the beautiful façades of leaning gabled houses, museums such as Museum Ons’ Lieve Heer op Solder, Museum Van Loon, and Huis Marseille are true hidden gems. The historic Spiegelkwartier is an absolute must for lovers of art, antiques and curiosities, as special ised dealers offer a wide variety of treasures. As soon as you cross into the elegant De Negen Straatjes (Nine Streets) shopping area, fashion designers and the city’s artisans (chocolatiers, perfumeries and cheesemongers included) show off their quality wares.

At home in the Jordaan

A few steps further, the flowery Jordaan welcomes you to Amster dam’s real life. This once work ing-class bastion was renowned for tight community bonds, radical politics, a love for drink, and over-the-top Dutch sing-a-longs. Gentrification of decades past has

attracted more galleries, restaurants and speciality shops to its scenic streets, but there’s undeniably still a distinct atmosphere to be enjoyed here. The bustling markets and lively cafés merge into the Haarlemmer straat, lined with vintage boutiques, concept stores, delis and countless options for lunch and coffee.

The lush streets of De Plantage

Just east of the centre, De Plantage is a lush cultural neighbourhood with elegant tree-lined boulevards teeming with attractions. Among the theatres, concert halls and public parks, you’ll find a wealth of institutions dedicated to fine art, culture and natural history, includ ing the Artis Zoo and Hortus Botanicus. The development of Artisplein and world-class museums such as the Jewish Museum mean the area is heralded as the alternative museum quarter. Student-run initiatives such as Kriterion Cinema continue to bring fresh cultural energy. Mean while, the former warehouses along the Entrepotdok or around the Marineterrein have been converted into exhibition spaces, waterside bars and fine-dining restaurants.

‘Jazz Café Alto on Korte Leidsedwarsstraat is fantastic for live music nights.’

Zarah Soriano (19), campaigner

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Hannekes Boom

Blissfully off the beaten track, Hannekes Boom exudes a quirky vibe and boasts one of Amsterdam’s best beer gardens. Locals and savvy visitors gather to enjoy the funky vibes, good music and home-cooked BBQ food. Located in the up-and-coming former docklands area east of Central Station, you can enjoy exceptional views of the National Maritime Museum and its docked VOC ship replica.

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Vintage shopping

Whatever your style, Amsterdam’s vintage shopping and thrift scene is brimming with one-of-akind pieces you won’t want to leave behind. Waterlooplein e flea market is the oldest and most famous street market in the Netherlands, open six days a week and with over 300 stalls. Expect to find all manner of treasures, from vinyl and pre-loved leather coats and cowboy boots to bikes, antiques and general knick-knacks. A flea market and farmers’ market in one, Noordermarkt’s r Saturday stalls are a haven for antiques, second-hand books and vintage fashion. To avoid the weekend crowds, head there on Monday morning for a second flea market.

For more information on Amsterdam Centrum check out the Neighbourhood Guide on our website: iamsterdam.com/ neighbourhoods

Oude Kerk

The Oude Kerk in Amsterdam’s Red Light District is the city’s oldest building and one of the city’s youngest art institutions. In the seven or so centuries since it was founded, the church has evolved into one of the most imposing Gothic ecclesiastical buildings in northern Europe. Keep an eye on the dynamic exhibition programme to catch installations by international artists specially designed to suit the space and acoustics of the interiors. And when you’re ready for refreshments, tucked away in the cloister garden, De Koffieschenkerij is hidden in plain sight. Its garden terrace is a paradise that’s a true local favourite.

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Brown bars in the Jordaan

Warm hospitality, sticky floorboards and reasonably-priced beers? You’ll find many of the city’s most authentic and more notorious drinking establishments in the Jordaan, where a bruin café (brown bar)hopping tour never disappoints – any night of the week. Café ’t Smalle i (Egelantiersgracht 12, t-smalle.nl) is a lovely old pub with wood panelling. For even more history, the beautifully restored Café ’t Papeneiland o (Prinsengracht 2, papeneiland.nl), built in 1642, still conceals a tunnel in the basement through which the secret Catholic church at Prinsengracht 7 could be reached. You won’t get away with not joining the merriment at Café de Twee Zwaantjes a (Prinsengracht 114, cafedetweezwaantjes.nl), which hosts karaoke evenings and Motown nights.

The OG way to tick tock: 19th-century French chinoiserie travel clock at Gude & Meis (€12,000).

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Cotton Club

Stock up on belted suede gilets (€65), boucle shorts (€42.95) and ruffled cardies (€45) at this local women’s fashion label, which is known for its muted colours, wearable prints and feminine silhouettes (in sizes XS to XXL).

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Vlaams Cultuurhuis de Brakke Grond

De Brakke Grond is a cultural centre championing everything Vlaams (Flemish) in the Netherlands; art, literature, dance, theatre, music, you name it. The varied schedule, quaint courtyard garden and atmospheric café make this unique space well worth checking out.

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Café ’t Papeneiland

Centrum

Studio Noos

After launching her label, Marie-Claire van der Steen’s mom bags (from €39.95) quickly became a must-have for the city’s trendy stroller brigade. Peruse the whole range and personalise any item at the in-house embroidery atelier in the Jordaan store, while your littles play in the kids’ corner.

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Located inside the historic Sluiswachterhuisje (little lockhouse), an adorably wonky building dating back to 1695, Café de Sluyswacht offers a taste of age-old Amsterdam.

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Canal house museums

For some serious interior design inspiration, take a tour around one of the city’s elegant canal houses formerly owned by wealthy Amsterdammers. Strolling through the period rooms of Museum Van Loon f (Keizersgracht 672, museumvanloon.nl), you’ll encounter beautiful portraits, impressive pieces of furniture, silver and porcelain from different centuries. At the back, there’s a delightful secret garden which hosts occasional concerts. Or, soak up the authentic 19th-century atmosphere at Willet-Holthuysen Museum g (Herengracht 605, amsterdammuseum.nl). This sumptuous mansion is beautifully preserved, with highlights including a collection of luxurious antiques, ornamental gardens and servants’ quarters.

Dignita Hoftuin

Enjoy great coffee, brunch and an eyepopping spread of pastries at Dignita, a sun-soaked café set in the Hoftuin gardens. As you’re munching on carrot cake or the signature eggs benedict, you can feel good as the restaurant is part of a not-for-profit initiative that helps vulnerable adults to get back into the workplace. Right next door are the spectacular collections of the Hermitage Amsterdam.

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INSIDER INTERVIEW

Spiros Mariatos (41), owner of Cheesy Cakes cheesecake shop

‘After studying culinary arts in Greece, and specialising in pastry in Paris, I’ve been working as a (pastry) chef for about 20 years now. I love cheesecakes. They’re versatile, which allows me to be very creative. I’ve made about 250 different variations in the past six years, and there’s lots more to explore. Our whackiest flavour is the ‘Miss Catherine Feta Jones’: a savoury cheesecake based on feta cheese. The double chocolate baked cheesecake makes me a very happy camper. 2023 will be an exciting year for us: there’s a cookbook ‘in the oven’ and I’ve finalised a franchise formula. Now Cheesy Cakes is ready to take on the world!’

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Zuidoost

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Down South

Zuidoost is about as far away as you can get from your typical canals-andclogs image of Amsterdam, but as one of the most culturally diverse, greenest and forwardfacing districts, it is a side of the city that shouldn’t be over looked. It is also home to all that is big in the world of entertainment; the Johan Cruijff ArenA , Ziggo Dome and AFAS Live are where you’ll

on pretence but bursting with flavours, World of Food offers you and your taste buds a trip around the world via a line-up of 25 kitchens that range from Ghanaian to Thai cuisine.

want to be if you’re looking for football matches, mega concerts or Star Trek Mara thons; and their schedules are always full. Zuidoost has culture, but it also has green. Gaasperplas park is a gem of a space in which an intricate web of streams and bridges, beaches and paths connect walkers, cyclists and even horse-riders.

A bit further east is Bijlmer weide, a beautiful and family-

Soak Urban Wellness

You might be surprised to see a boutique spa in an industrial park, but in Zuid-oost, you will find precisely that. Soak Urban Wellness offers a variety of treatments, from saunas, steam rooms, massages and tanning beds to any combination thereof. Spread across eight meticulously renovated shipping containers, this modern spa complex offers luxury at an accessible price point. Check out the pack age that includes a high-tea with bubbles.

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With a strong sense of community pride, expansive green spaces and the city’s best largescale entertainment venues, Zuidoost gives a whole new perspective of Amsterdam.

‘I always come to Zuidoost to visit family.’

Ricardo Retfeld (65), retired

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friendly farm and café, and the brand-new Brasa Park – an urban garden and community space created along the top of the Gaasperdam tunnel.

Indoor and outdoor

Over in the more residential borough of De Bijlmer, you’ll fi nd surprising cultural highlights such as the Open Space Contemporary Art Museum (OSCAM) and CBK Zuidoost. In the mood for food? If you’d like to chow down on some African fufu, Surinamese roti, Japanese sushi or a Turkish grill plate – and would rather not spend a fortune on airfare –World of Food is a 3,000m2 complex of multicultural cuisine that shouldn’t be missed.

Volunteer-run Gliphoevemini farm welcomes animal-lovers and greenfingered individuals for a wholesome dose of petting the goats, craft workshops and eating delicious pancakes.

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For more information on Amsterdam Zuidoost check out the Neighbourhood Guide on our website: iamsterdam.com/ neighbourhoods

Amsterdamse Poort

In addition to the usual Dutch retailers such as C&A, Hema and Hunkemöller, there’s an interesting mix of African fashion, Surinamese jewellery and Middle Eastern perfumes and a brilliant bookstore at this conveniently located shopping centre, as well as a wide variety of eateries including Antillian and Indonesian. On some days there’s also an outdoor market.

Heesterveld

Enjoy the homely atmosphere and changing local art exhibitions in the colourful Heesterveld Creative Community r (heesterveldcc.nl). This former apartment block has transformed into a cultural breeding ground, with ateliers in the former storage rooms and the artists’ homes above. Admire the street artor visit GLLRY ZOH (Heesterveld 26, bnbzoh.nl), an art platform and project space with a B&B. Anyone hungry for chunky sandwiches should head over to the living room of Zuidoost: Oma Ietje (Heesterveld 3, omaietje.nl).

Maritoys

Having

made a name for her Miss Alida cartoon at Amsterdamse Poort, Mariëlla Bekker recently moved shop to Reigersbos shopping centre. Her range of inclusive toys includes everything from Black dolls to books, games and back-to-school accessories that better represent people of colour than the standard offering at most Dutch toy stores.

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Marker Wadden

A unique nature reserve still in development, this group of small islands in between Lelystad and Enkhuizen is constructed with sand, clay and silt from the Markermeer. As new plants blossom both under and above water, Marker Wadden is quickly becoming a natural paradise for fish and birds. Delve deeper into the Marker Wadden by taking an expedition on the Abel Tasman sailboat (take bus 315 from Amsterdam Station Noord, 50 minutes, to get there). On the island, a guide from Natuurmonumenten will explain the environment’s fascinating features.

Old Holland

Windmills on the Waterside

A culinary business card

Old Holland showcases the traditions the Netherlands became famous for: shipbuilding, clogs, fishing and cheese-making. For a fantastic trip back in time, head to Volendam, Edam and Marken – picturesque fishing towns on the shores of the Markermeer known for their various regional delicacies. You can also experience the region’s industrial heritage – a time when smoking chimneys and spinning sails enabled the mass production of goods. Modern-day Zaandam blends old and new, finding innovative ways to repurpose and showcase its industrial character. Perhaps the first sign you’ll see of this is when marvelling at the eye-catching façade of the Inntel Hotel Zaandam, a stack of almost 70 individual Zaan houses in the traditional green colour. And then there’s the lush green Twiske-Waterland nature area just above Amsterdam, dotted with waterside tea rooms, grazing cows and traditional windmills, which makes for a perfect bike trip along the scenic country lanes.

‘I very vividly remember my mum forcing me to eat eel when I was a kid. Yes, that slippery fish that made Volendam and its surrounding fishing villages famous. I’m glad she did though, because now, 20 years later, wiser and as a real fish lover, I’m converted. Eel is a treat, I can tell you. The extraordinary fish with its specific taste is smoked right here in the region. The best smokehouse for eel is Smit-Bokkum in Volendam. It has been the culinary business card of Volendam for over 150 years. Even Shakira has visited the place, so we know it must be good. Another favourite is Gebroeders De Boer, the last real smokehouse in Monnickendam, located in the most picturesque place you can imagine.’ can

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Take a fascinating journey from traditional windmills and wooden houses to modern biscuit factories such as the Verkade Experience at the Zaans Museum. ZAANSMUSEUM.NL

With its picturesque fishing villages, traditional artisans and industrial heritage, discovering Old Holland feels like taking a step back in time.

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Marken

Fishing village Marken is brimming with characteristic green wooden houses and traditional buildings that seem to transport you back in time. Once an island (and now a peninsula), Marken is accessible by a single road from the mainland, and the entire area can be traversed on foot in a single day. While there, don’t miss Het Paard van Marken, a 19th-century lighthouse that’s been converted into a national monument.

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Waterland

Het Twiske is a green recreational area that hosts endless activities for outdoorsy types, young and old. You can rent canoes or sailboats, windsurf, stand-up paddleboard and even go diving. If that doesn’t float your boat, there are plenty of designated areas to have a scenic picnic or take a brisk dip. Surrounding this are the picturesque villages of the Waterland – a centuries-old polder landscape connected by various cycling, walking and paddling routes worth exploring.

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Czaar Peter Huis

The Czaar Peter Huis is a humble dwelling that famously housed Tsar Peter the Great during his stay in the Netherlands. In the 17th century, this area was a renowned shipbuilding district, and Peter visited the region to learn about Dutch techniques. Fittingly, the wooden house where he slept was constructed from old ship materials. This national monument has been transformed into a museum –the perfect stop for anyone interested in learning more about the industrial heritage of the Zaan Region.

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Industrial waterfronts

The River Zaan was one of the oldest industrial areas in Europe, and wind and water played an essential role in its success. Whether you walk, cycle or take a boat cruise here, you’ll pass historical merchants’ houses and former factories. The 11-kilometre waterfront connects around 75 vintage industrial buildings, including the iconic windmills at the Zaanse Schans and old factories and warehouses in Wormerveer. Stop at café-restaurant Batavia 1894 in Wormer, located in a former warehouse, for a coffee or lunch on the waterfront.

How to get there

Zaandam and Zaanse Schans: Direct train from Amsterdam Central station to Zaandam (two stops further is Zaanse Schans train station) (15 minutes)

Fishing villages: Take a bus from Amsterdam Noord metro station to Monnickendam (15 minutes), Marken (30 minutes) and Volendam (30 minutes)

Find out more about day trips to Old Holland on iamsterdam.com/ oldholland

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Beaches

A former military fort, Kunstfort Vijfhuizen is now used as a centre for contemporary art, complete with a restaurant.

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Impressive Coastlines

Explore breathtaking dunes, take part in watersports, or just relax along one of the most unspoilt coastlines in Northern Europe.

Whether you’re looking for adventure, sunbathing and swimming, beach bars or wildlife, you'll find it all on the Dutch coast. Spring and autumn are great for sandy strolls or tranquil hikes, while winter walkers embrace the cold coastal air. All year round you can visit the hip restaurants and beach clubs of Bloemendaal and Zandvoort. Alternatively, IJmuiden is characterised by its rugged beauty and industrial port – and the North Sea wind makes this spot a haven for wind and watersports fans. Hidden WWII bunkers along the sand and impressive historical sites such as Forteiland form part of The Defence Line of Amsterdam, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Behind the beaches, you’ll find the Dutch dunes with ample opportunities for cycling, hiking and wildlife spotting – particularly in the Zuid-Kennemerland National Park You can also visit impressive country estates such as the Landgoed Duin & Kruidberg hotel adjacent to the park.

Wind and water sports

Northwest of Amsterdam, the beach at IJmuiden is a fantastic spot for sports lovers. You’ll find the locals heading to the sea in droves to spend the entire day splashing around in the water. Test your balance with paddleboarding or catch some serious air flyboarding. And If you’re not into water sports, try blokarting, a unique windpowered go-kart that lets you zoom along the beach. Whatever your passion, there’s a place to do it at IJmuiden.

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Calming dunes

‘When I think of Zandvoort, the first thing that comes to mind is expansive, sandy beaches, calming dunes and autumnal days walking my Jack Russell along windy shores. I think sun-drenched seaside cafés, glasses of Verdejo and pots of steaming mussels. Which reminds me of my friend Piet, who used to summer in Zandvoort with many of Amsterdam’s other Jewish residents before the war. And that leads me to the German bunkers built along the area’s North Sea coastline as part of Hitler’s Atlantic Wall defence, many of which are still visible today. The Bunker Museum in nearby IJmuiden affords a glimpse into the life of the German soldiers stationed underground, complete with sleeping quarters and a canteen. Which brings me back to cafés and the sea and the windy shoreline and my desire to go, as the Dutch say, uitwaaien: letting the wind blow your sorrows away.’

Zandvoort beach

All year round, Zandvoort beach attracts outdoorsy types from across the region to blow the cobwebs away with a bracing walk across the sand or relax with a drink in hand at one of the beach clubs. Try NIUS Beachhouse for cosy corners and gluhwein at the outdoor winter bar (Boulevard Paulus Loot, niusbeachhouse. nl) or Timboektoe (Reyndersweg 1, timboektoe.org) if you’re looking for a cosy spot to watch the surf all year round. Or if

Zuid-Kennemerland National Park

Take a dedicated cycle path from the coastline to the Waterleiding dunes for a hike through the nature reserve. Perhaps you’ll spot one of the many deer or foxes, or you might stumble across a WWII bunker. To the north of Zandvoort, you’ll find the Zuid-Kennemerland National Park – a stunning nature reserve home to various bird species, deer, rabbits, Highland cattle and even European bison. Open from sunrise to sunset, the park offers multiple walking and cycling routes, forested areas and lakes to explore.

Circuit Zandvoort

Thrill-seekers have the chance to feel like a racing superstar all year round at Circuit Zandvoort, a motorsport race track hidden among the dunes of this unassuming beach town. Hop in a Lamborghini, Aston Martin or McLaren and test your driving skills, while the younger ones can practice theirs in a go-kart.

CIRCUITZANDVOORT.NL

you fancy ringing in the New Year North Sea-style, on 1 January at 2 pm sharp, join a group of brave swimmers taking their first dip of the year for New Year’s Swim. Afterwards, reward yourself with a steaming mug of hot chocolate with whipped cream from the pavilion.

VVVZANDVOORT.COM

How to get there

Zandvoort: Direct train from Amsterdam Central station to Zandvoort aan Zee (30 minutes)

IJmuiden: Take bus 382 from Amsterdam Sloterdijk to bus stop Badweg (45 minutes)

Zuid-Kennemerland National Park: Train from Amsterdam Central station to Overveen and a short walk to the visitors centre (25 minutes)

Find out more about day trips to Amsterdam Beach on iamsterdam.com/ beach

Lauren Comiteau

Castles & Gardens

Riverside Fortresses & Mansions

A knight ’s tale

‘

Follow the Amstel by boat or bike, and you’ll pass into some spectacular countryside where 17th-century estates built by wealthy merchants line the riverbanks. This lush green region is dotted with beautifully-preserved towns and enchanting villages, such as the 12th-century Ouderkerk aan de Amstel, which o ers various scenic spots for waterside dining. Elsewhere in the region, country houses such as Kasteel Museum Sypesteyn boast period rooms, quaint tea rooms and exquisitely manicured gardens. Nature is abundant in the region, and the Westeinder and Loosdrechtse leisure lakes are dotted with tiny islands teeming with wildlife, picturesque beaches and opportunities for water sports. Meanwhile, fortified towns such as Muiden – home to the medieval Muiderslot Castle – Weesp and Naarden are fantastic for exploring The Defence Line of Amsterdam, a ring of fortifications around the Dutch capital. For a fabulous adventure, take the ferry to Forteiland Pampus, a man-made stronghold rich in history.

It’s a generally accepted fact that without conflict our stories are boring. In order to induce some conflict within my own story, I set off on the challenge: ‘Can I entertain my son and teach him something… possibly... historical?’ This little 5-year-old has scoffed at the Stedelijk and quickly lost interest in the Maritime Museum. How? I have no idea. But one thing I hoped would pique his interest was castles. We set off on an adventure to Muiderslot Castle, like two noble knights. Once he saw the castle in all its glory this little person turned from a doubtful negative Nancy to a positive Petunia in less than five seconds. So, if you’re looking for a family-friendly visit that will entertain the little ones, you need to visit Muiderslot (another place on the list is Castle Sypesteyn, reopening in February). It brings out the knights in them.’

Giampiero Maie i

Explore ancient castles and country estates, then sail along the river, dreaming of an aristocratic life by the water.

Find out more about day trips to Castles & Gardens on iamsterdam. com/castles

BETHHAIM.NL

Naarden

One of the best-preserved fortified towns in Europe is famous for its ‘star fort’ grid which, from the air, resembles a giant snowflake. The history of Naarden is explained at the Vestingmuseum (Fortress Museum). Learn all about how Amsterdam and its surroundings were protected from enemies and explore the dark corners of the fortress, where soldiers once fought, lived and slept. Naarden also has plenty of cafés, shops and attractions to explore, including the Grote Kerk (pictured). Step inside to admire the impressive architectural details of the church, including the famous barrel-vaulted ceiling.

VISITGOOIVECHT.NL

Cycle along the Amstel

For a local cycle route that offers a little bit of everything, follow the River Amstel south from Amsterdam into some spectacular Dutch countryside. Watch as the buildings fade away, replaced by swaying reeds, green meadows and historic villages. Touring this idyllic region will make you feel just like a 17th-century artist might have and you'll find plenty of flat and accessible cycle routes through the area.

The newest municipality to have been absorbed into the city of Amsterdam, Weesp is a quaint riverside city district in the heart of the Vechtstreek, famed for its historic buildings. The town dates back to the 14th century and – as you’d expect –features lots of fortifications and battlements. Its architecture includes the spectacular Ossenmarkt and Issenmeer forts, a stunning interwoven canal network, three historical windmills, and buildings. Weesp’s former town hall now houses the municipal museum, devoted mainly to 18th-century porcelain crafts.

VISITGOOIVECHT.NL

Singer Museum Laren

Art fans should not miss the recently renovated Singer Laren art museum, which houses impressive collections from 1880-1950, assembled by Anna and William Singer in the early 20th century. The permanent display and various changing exhibitions (see Impressionism & Modernism in the Netherlands until 1 May) are well worth a visit. The stunning sculpture garden – designed by renowned landscape architect Piet Oudolf – features work by contemporary Dutch artists, including Guido Geelen, Maria Roosen and Famke van Wijk.

SINGERLAREN.NL

How to get there

Weesp and Muiderslot Castle: Direct train from Amsterdam Central station to Weesp, then transfer to bus 110 and get off at bus stop Muiden centrum (30 minutes)

Naarden: Take bus 209 from Amsterdam

Bijlmer ArenA to bus stop Westwalstraat, Naarden (40 minutes)

The ornately carved marble gravestones in the Beth Haim cemetery in Ouderkerk aan de Amstel belong to Jews who fled to the Netherlands in the 17th century, as well as their descendants.

Haarlem

Following an enormous crowd-funding scheme, a car park was transformed into Haarlem’s most beautiful roof terrace garden with a greenhouse restaurant, De Dakkas DE WITSTRAAT 1A, DEDAKKAS.NL

Charming City

With its cobblestone streets, bustling market square and hidden ho es, Haarlem is a city with many stories to tell. For centuries it has been a hub for trade, architecture and culture, and various historical monuments still reveal the city’s rich past. These include the Amsterdamse Poort (a city gate dating from 1355), the City Hall (from 1250) and the Grote Kerk – or St. Bavokerk – (a cathedral since 1559). Elsewhere, historic monuments have been transformed into trendy hangouts, such as Jopenkerk, a former church that is now a bustling brewery serving a range of brilliant beers. Haarlem is also regularly voted as one of the Netherlands’ best places to shop, so grab some retail therapy at the vintage boutiques and local craft ateliers. After that, take the time to visit some of the country’s best museums – the Frans Hals Museum, Teylers Museum and Museum of the Mind | Dolhuys – before heading out for a lively evening at a Michelin-starred restaurant, concert hall or theatre.

Magical hofjes

‘ Haarlem is known for its historical hofjes, sprinkled all around the city and hiding in plain sight. So plain, in fact, that for many months, I never knew I lived directly above one. I had always admired the quiet courtyard garden from my window, and the cherry tree that blossoms in spring. Then one afternoon on my way home, I took a detour and happened upon an open gate that led me straight into the same courtyard I had admired from my window. Hofjes! The magical quiet gardens turned out to be home to Lutherse Hofje and Frans Loenenhofje, founded in the 17th century and some of Haarlem’s most treasured historical sights. My advice?

Don’t hesitate to explore your city’s hidden gems – they may just be in your own backyard.’

Monik Kokkola

A city of remarkable history and culture, Haarlem is home to historical monuments and some of the Netherlands' best museums, art and shopping.

© KOEN SMILDE

Find out more about day trips to Haarlem on iamsterdam.com/ haarlem

Gouden Straatjes

Haarlem has been voted the Netherlands’ best shopping destination on several occasions, and a quick look around the boutique-lined streets will reveal precisely why. You’ll discover everything from achingly cool concept stores to traditional market stalls and big brands to independent labels –as well as charming antique and curiosity shops around every corner. It’s no wonder that Haarlemmers call their shopping district the ‘Gouden Straatjes’ (Golden Streets).

Grote Markt

Hosting regular festivals and markets, the Grote Markt is the hub of daily life in Haarlem and is one of the country’s prettiest city squares. Don’t forget to visit the Grote Kerk, also known as the St. Bavokerk, that dominates the city skyline. Inside, you’ll find the tombstones of significant figures from Dutch history, including Frans Hals, Pieter Teyler and Pieter Jansz Saenredam.

VISITHAARLEM.COM

Teylers Museum

A trip to the oldest museum in the Netherlands is like venturing through the back of a wardrobe and into a strange new land. Whether delving into art or science, the museum’s extensive collection includes masterful paintings and drawings (many of which are from The Hague School and Dutch Romantics), ancient fossils and minerals, and instruments and books. It also hosts a changing line-up of fascinating exhibitions showcasing awe-inspiring science and art, and the building’s magnificent 238-year-old Oval Hall is an attraction in itself. The Pieter Teyler House in a wing of the museum lets you look inside the 18th-century house of the museum’s founding father.

Frans Hals Museum

One of Haarlem’s most famous sons, the legacy of 17th-century portrait painter Frans Hals can be seen all over the city. Nowhere more so than at the Frans Hals Museum, a large gallery dedicated to art from the era and home to the most extensive collection of Frans Hals’ portraits in the world. You’ll also find various exhibitions of influential contemporary artists working today, including the first solo exhibition in the Netherlands of Rachel Harrison (3 March-11 June).

FRANSHALSMUSEUM.NL

How to get there

Direct train service from Amsterdam Central station to Haarlem (15 minutes)

© HANS GULDEMOND

© KEES HAGEMAN

© HANS GULDEMOND

Find out more about day trips to the flower region on iamsterdam. com/flowers

Holland in Bloom

The perfect Instagram pic

Every spring, the iconic Flower Strip attracts admirers from around the world as millions of eye-popping tulip bulbs burst into bloom. One of the biggest attractions is Keukenhof, the world’s most extensive flower gardens, home to more varieties of tulips than you could imagine. Real flower bu s should also pay a visit to De Zwarte Tulp Museum, which examines the region’s history, the Flower Art Museum and the Royal FloraHolland flower auction to get a proper grasp of the industrial scale of the region. You can also explore numerous estates, such as Keukenhof Castle and the Aalsmeer Historical Gardens (the latter opening again in April), home to quaint tearooms and opportunities for a tranquil stroll. The polder landscape is dotted with historic villages such as Lisse and Hillegom, along with fascinating monuments such as the Cruquius pumping station, now a museum that tells the story of the Dutch struggle against the water.

‘I like to pretend I’m a tourist in my own country. I regularly get on my bike to explore the area. In Haarlemmermeer, the municipality where I live, and in the adjacent municipality of Lisse, the most beautiful fields full of colourful flowers bloom in spring. And yes, you get the most Instagrammable photos in the field. Once, to get a beautiful flower photo, I walked right into a field, but just as I was aiming for the perfect shot, a farmer towered over me and told me off. Turns out the fields are really damaged if everyone keeps walking through them and it is disrespectful to the grower. Oops! I know better now. Fortunately, there are more and more locations in the flower region where you can – often for a fee – take beautiful photos between the flowers and sometimes even pick them. Instagrammable picture guaranteed.’

Danie e Meijer

Liefsuithaarlemmermeer.nl

The world-famous flower strip makes for an ideal day out with colourful landscapes, historic gardens, recreational lakes and vast flower fields.

For the ultimate flower experience, the interactive audiovisual museum

Floriworld is a must. Discover how plants impact daily life and take a selfie among the blossoming blooms.

FLORIWORLD.NL

Museums

Few subjects inspire so many diverse artists as the flower. With that in mind, the Flower Art Museum (flowerartmuseum.nl) in Aalsmeer hosts exhibitions with challenging themes, all revolving around the representation of flowers and plants in contemporary art. Likewise, over in Lisse, Museum De Zwarte Tulp (The Black Tulip Museum, museumdezwartetulp.nl) delves into the history of the flower region, the origins and evolution of bulb culture and the science behind new varieties of tulips. Through interactive exhibitions using photography and videos, the museum paints a picture of the remarkable bulb-to-flower-tobulb cycle.

Cruquius

Built in 1849, Cruquius is a unique monument that marked the breakthrough of the Dutch Industrial Revolution. The steampowered pumps were used to pump Lake Haarlemmermeer dry, leaving behind the polder landscape we know today that coincidentally proved perfect for growing tulips! Today, the decommissioned pump is the centrepiece of a museum full of interactive exhibits explaining the history of reclaimed land and Dutch water management. Next door, there’s a lovely teahouse that’s perfect for lunch or a coffee.

HAARLEMMERMEERMUSEUM.NL

Royal FloraHolland

Keukenhof

Anyone who wants to get their fill of flowers for a lifetime should look no further than Keukenhof. Open for just eight weeks each year (23 March-14 May 2023), the gardens boast a staggering seven million blooms planted across 32 hectares. The world-famous Dutch tulips are central to the displays, with over 800 varieties in all colours and shapes exhibited throughout the indoor pavilions and expertly-manicured grounds. Its showy neighbour may perpetually outshine it, but Keukenhof Castle (located opposite) boasts an impressive 400-year history. Learn about the previous inhabitants inside, then head outdoors to view the unique sculpture collection or look for the hidden gardens tucked away on the wooded estate.

KEUKENHOF.NL, KASTEELKEUKENHOF.NL

Royal FloraHolland in Aalsmeer is the world’s biggest flower auction (a whopping 400 football fields’ worth). The unusual sales method used gave rise to the phrase ‘Dutch auction’: dealers bid by pushing a button to stop a ‘clock’ that counts from 100 down to one. Thus, the price is lowered – rather than raised – until a buyer is found. The best action is between 7 and 9 am, so you’ll have to get up early to see it. Flowers stretch as far as the eye can see, the smell is divine, and you can witness the auction first-hand with a multilingual guide.

ROYALFLORAHOLLAND.COM

How to get there

Keukenhof: Take bus 852 from Amsterdam RAI station to bus stop Keukenhof (35 minutes).

Royal FloraHolland: Take bus 357 from Amsterdam Elandsgracht bus station to bus stop FloraHolland (55 minutes)

Cruquius: Train service from Amsterdam Central station to Haarlem station. Transfer to bus 340, bus stop Cruquius Ringvaartbrug (45 minutes)

© CRIS TOALA OLIVARES

© KOEN SMILDE

New Land

Batavialand celebrates everything nautical and provides an insightful look into the exceptional history of the Dutch relationship with the sea. BATAVIALAND.NL

Where Man Meets Nature

Entirely reclaimed from the sea, the Netherlands’ youngest province is home to modern architecture and natural environments shaped by human hands.

Lying four metres below sea level, Flevoland – the result of a largescale land reclamation project in the 1930s – is a province associated with cutting-edge architecture and a sustainable vision. Flevoland’s cities Lelystad and Almere are fast-growing urban centres teeming with mindblowing urban art and cultural hotspots – such as the Kunstlinie and Agora Theatres. These modern polder cities blend forward-thinking design with futuristic urban planning while embracing the water and nature right on their doorstep. Elsewhere, the region’s watery past is still apparent in its nautical history and impressive natural landscapes. Unique man-made nature reserves such as Nieuw Land National Park and Marker Wadden provide vast swathes of protected marshlands for migrating birds and ample opportunity for recreation, cycling and wildlife tours. New Land proves that human hands can shape even the wildest natural environments. Meanwhile, the not-to-be-missed Land Art on show throughout the region makes for an ideal day trip.

Landgoed de Kemphaan

De Kemphaan is a nature area in the city’s southern district known as Almere Hout. Although easily accessible from Almere Centrum station (less than 20 minutes by bike or bus), you’ll leave the city’s glass and concrete behind to discover a tranquil, green oasis ideal for relaxation or play. Stop off at Buitencentrum Almeerderhout before heading out on a walk through the forest. There’s also a city farm that hosts a farmers’ market on Saturday mornings, the Almere Jungle (a small zoo), two restaurants, holiday accommodations and a campsite.

KEMPHAAN.NL

New Land nature

A unique nature reserve between Lelystad and Almere comprising 56km2 of protected marshlands and fields, Nieuw Land National Park is a fantastic spot for a hike or a day of bird-watching. Its ‘locals’ include not just residents of the feathered kind but wild varieties of deer, cattle, foxes, hares and Konik ponies. Stop by De Oostvaarders, the official visitor centre, for a café with a panoramic view, an exhibition, a video room and viewing areas. The vast landscapes and water courses are worth the journey alone, and it’s the perfect place to explore on foot or by bike.

VISITFLEVOLAND.COM

Innovative architecture

When it comes to architecture, Almere ranks an impressive third in the Netherlands –and actually first when looking at modern architecture in European New Towns. The city is home to high profile buildings designed by leading architects including Teun Koolhaas, Herman Hertzberger and Liesbeth van der Pol. Because Almere is so new, its buildings are imaginative, drawing on the latest innovations in Dutch design. There are plenty of ways to discover the wealth of exciting architecture in Almere – just visit the city’s Visitor Information Centre for a cycle or walking tour.

Outdoor artworks

‘Hailing from The Hague, I’ve always been somewhat mistrustful of the idea of reclaimed land. Isn’t Flevoland just a giant lily pad that wobbles as soon as you set foot on it? But when I heard about Land Art, nine outdoor artworks, I set aside my mistrust and planned a visit. I am pleased to confirm that the ground is rather solid, and that the art is well worth the trip. In one day I managed to see four works (the total route is 190km, so you will need a car), including Ri , PD# 18245 by Bob Gramsma, and my favourite: RAAAF & Atelier de Lyon’s Deltawerk//, which completely scrambles a wave basin built in the 1970s for testing the impact of water on construction. The artists have sawed through the concrete and tipped parts over, inviting you to ponder our battle against water in a time of climate change. I’m impressed, by the art and by Flevoland.’

Judi Hornmann

Batavia Stad shopping

Batavia Stad is a lakeside fashion outlet mall in the city of Lelystad that offers more than 250 fashion brands, and cafés and restaurants. Bargain-hunters flock here from around the country to seek out big brands at wallet-friendly prices. Look for 30-70% discounts on fashionable items from prestigious Dutch and international designers. Visitors outside the EU can benefit even more savings by tax-free shopping.

BATAVIASTAD.COM

Almere City Centre: Direct train from Amsterdam Central station to Almere Centrum (20 minutes)

Batavia Stad and Batavialand: Batavia Stad Shopping Shuttle Bus departs daily from Amsterdam River Cruise Port (De Ruijterkade 153), free with your City Card

Nieuw Land National Park: Train to Almere Oostvaarders. From there it’s a 20 minute walk to the visitor centre (60 minutes)

© KEES

HAGEMAN

Find out more about day trips to New Land on iamsterdam.com/ newland

Cycleseeing Explore by Bike

24 Hour bike rental is included in the City Card Get yours at iamsterdam. com/citycard

The best way to see the Netherlands is by bicycle. All you need is a bike and a route, and your adventure can begin.

While visiting Amsterdam, it may look like the rest of the country is a faraway place that takes a lot of planning to visit. Not so! The rest of the country starts only a few kilometres from Amsterdam’s city centre. With Cycleseeing Amsterdam you can explore the area around the city. You can visit villages that are older than Amsterdam, admire the famous windmills and typical Dutch scenery, and explore new and modern neighbourhoods. Cycleseeing is a series of ten cycle routes that cater to everyone’s taste and level: you can cycle as much or as little as you please. The Dutchies got it right: cycling may just be the best – and eco-friendly – way to get around. You can move fast, but slow enough to really get a good view of everything. And you’re the boss of your own schedule. If you want to take a closer look at that windmill or peek inside that pretty museum, your bike isn’t going to stop you. An added advantage: this is the flattest country in the world! And as the Dutch network of cycling routes is safe, fast and easy to navigate, and you’re always near a city or town (flat tyre, no problem), there’s no reason not to get on that bicycle!

Find your Cycleseeing route on iamsterdam.com/cycleroutes

TOP TIPS

Bijlmer & Gaasperplas

Officially known as AmsterdamZuidoost and Bijlmermeer, this ‘hood of hoods’ is simply called ‘Bijlmer’ by the locals living here. Bijlmer is the only place in the Netherlands where you can experience the positive effects of 130 different nationalities living together: from a Syrian lunch, to a tailormade West African dress, to the best roti in town – and that’s just for starters.

Amstel River

Amsterdam wouldn’t be Amsterdam without the Amstel River. The Amstel River route follows the river’s flow out of the city, taking you deep into the typical Dutch countryside and old towns such as Ouderkerk aan de Amstel.

Haarlem

Hop on a bike and experience the best of times in Haarlem. To start, the Teylers Museum focuses on art and science. It is full of fossils, drawings, paintings and minerals. Of course, the route also takes you to the Grote Markt and the Haarlem City Hall, one of the oldest in the country, dating back to 1370. You can take a guided tour of the imposing Grote Kerk (St. Bavokerk) church, completed in 1520, too.

Need to Know

Where to get your information, how to get around and other useful information to make sure your trip to Amsterdam runs smoothly.

I amsterdam

In Case of Emergency

If you are a victim of crime, report it to the police (politie.nl). In emergency situations or to report a crime in progress, call 112. For non-emergency situations requiring police assistance or to make an appointment to report a crime in person, call 0900 8844 (if using a mobile phone with an international SIM card, dial +31 343 578 844). For medical emergencies, including telephone consultations and consultations on location, contact your hotel reception or call the tourist doctor on +31 20 427 5011 (expatmc.net).

With a hand-picked selection of quality products from iconic Amsterdam brands, as well as daily tips and advice on the best events and must-see attractions in the city, the I amsterdam Store at Amsterdam Central Station is your key to unlocking the very best that Amsterdam has to offer. Plus, this is your go-to stop for information on how to get around.

I AMSTERDAM STORE, CENTRAL STATION, IJ-SIDE. CHECK IAMSTERDAM.COM FOR UP-TO-DATE OPENING HOURS

GETTING AROUND: Amsterdam is well-equipped with a public transport network of trams, buses and the metro, operated by GVB (gvb.nl). Tickets –known as OV cards – are obligatory on all forms of public transport. You can buy a card from ticket offices at the main stations; single onehour tickets can be bought on trams and buses with a debit or credit card. To plan your journeys once in Amsterdam, visit 9292.nl/en or Google Maps for up-tothe-minute information. Alternatively, hire a bike from one of the many bicycle rental shops, but be warned that using your mobile phone while cycling is illegal.

Amsterdam & TravelRegionTicket

Travel Ticket

Discover Amsterdam and the surrounding area with the Amsterdam & Region Travel Ticket –a special public transport card valid on trains, metros, trams and buses operated by NS, GVB, Connexxion and EBS. The Amsterdam & Region Travel Ticket is available for one, two or three calendar days, and is valid on any of the routes listed in the public transport guide to the Amsterdam Area. Tickets can be purchased at the I amsterdam Store, as well as ticket counters of the participating public transport companies.

Public Holidays

Schools, city councils, post offices and banks are closed for the whole day on official public holidays in the Netherlands.

• 5 December: Sinterklaas is not an official public holiday, but some government offices close

• 25 December: Christmas Day is an official public holiday

• 26 December: Boxing Day is an official public holiday

• 1 January: New Year’s Day is an o cial public holiday

• 7 April: Good Friday is not an o cial public holiday, but many businesses do close

• 9 April: Easter Sunday is an o cial public holiday

• 10 April: Easter Monday is an o cial public holiday

• 27 April: King’s Day is an o cial public holiday

I amsterdam City Card

The I amsterdam City Card o ers you a unique way to explore Amsterdam. It gives access to all major highlights and more than 70 museums, city-wide public transport, a canal cruise and bicycle rental.

Order your I amsterdam City Card online at iamsterdam.com/city-card and download the City Card app.

Before You Leave

‘The Sandeman’s Walking Guided Tour takes you all through the city.’

Ram (33), wedding photographer from Hyderabad, India

‘Once you grab a bike and go around Amsterdam, you will find the most magical places. Just don’t worry if you get lost! I found my way to De Ceuvel, a creative community where artists work in boat-studios.’

Angela Ramos (30), pharmacist from Tietar Valley, Spain

‘Cornerstore in Amsterdam Noord is the perfect place to start and end your night, with delicious dinner and drinks and late-night music.’

‘Visit STRAAT Museum on NDSM. One piece, a shutter with bullet holes, created by a Lebanese artist, made me quite emotional. You could write your reactions on a piece of paper, which would then be rolled up and pushed into one of the holes.’

Sharon Raj (33), HR professional from Vancouver, Canada

Cressida Hope (25), event coordinator from London, UK

PELHAM

editor-in-chief Bart van Oosterhout art director & basic design Yke Bartels, Saskia Franken designer Martijn Blokland deputy editor Karin Thybaut proofreader Julia Gorodecky contributors Barbara van den Berg, Lauren Comiteau, Karin Engelbrecht, Judith Hornman, Lesia Joukova, Monik Kokkola, Giampiero Mai etti, Danielle Meijer, Dave Pelham, Kirsten van Santen, Verity Seward, Steven Strijbosch, Mirte Vreemann, Monique Wijbrands, Christiaan de Wit advertising partner@iamsterdam.com

‘I found a fantastic Indonesian takeaway on Tweede Lindendwarsstraat called Terang Boelan.’

Daisey Pak (35), non-profit administrator from Tenafly, US

Energy Junkies

NEMO for adults at off-site location

HET

ZWANENMEER