I amsterdam Magazine Winter 2018 by amsterdam&partners

What’s on

Amsterdam Light Festival Cats, the musical Cinderella

Eat & shop Festive feasts Date-night dining Christmas shopping

Magazine | The Winter Issue 2018 / 2019

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Lighting Up Your Winter

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THE OFFICIAL AMSTERDAM CITY MAGAZINE

Around town Eastern promise Old Holland's charming villages in winter

T H E DIA MON D E X PE R I E NC E Admire the art of diamond polishing in Amsterdam GASSAN Diamonds, is located in a beautiful restored originally steam driven diamond factory and was built in 1879. In 2013 more than 400.000 visitors had a tour through the magnificent diamond factory and in 2013 GASSAN also has been declared Best Family Business in the Netherlands by the Family Enterprise Foundation in partnership with KPMG. Let a tour of GASSAN Diamonds be the highlight of your trip; - free guided tours - tours 7 days a week, all year round from 9.00 a.m. till 5.00 p.m. - personal attention for individuals and groups - exclusive in-house Rolex boutique - diamonds mounted while you wait - large jewelry and watch collection on premises with brands such as Chopard, IWC, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Longines, Omega, Choices by DL and GASSAN 121 - parking for tour buses and mooring site - VAT refund for non EU residents GASSAN Diamonds Head Quarter, in the middle of Amsterdam

GASSAN 121 More than 10 years ago, at the family operated GASSAN Diamonds, perfecting the brilliant cut (also known as the Amsterdam Cut) resulted in the development of a breathtaking new cut with 121 facets: the GASSAN 121.

Following years of research, a new breathtaking cut for a diamond with 121 facets for the pinnacle in reflection was finally developed. Compared with the traditional brilliant cut, the GASSAN 121 has an additional 16 facets on the top and an additional Watchmaker

Goldsmith & diamonds polisher

48 facets on the underside of the diamond. The result is the ultimate in brilliance. In other words: perfect beauty.

T O A R R A N G E Y O U R T O U R : W W W. G A S S A N . C O M GASSAN Diamonds Nwe. Uilenburgerstraat 173 - 175 1011 LN Amsterdam | GASSAN Dam Square Rokin 1-5 (Dam) 1012 KK Amsterdam GASSAN Boutique P.C. Hooftstraat 84 1071 CB Amsterdam | GASSAN Schiphol Dep. Lounges 1,2,3,4 & Arrivalhall 3 Schiphol Airport

It’s not just our World Business Class seats that set us apart It’s our caring crew Our stewardess is just admiring Mr Johnson’s new grandson after serving him a night snack. Although Mr Johnson is enjoying the comfort of his full-flat seat, tonight the joy of a newborn keeps him awake. We guess nothing will make Mr Johnson happier. But if there’s anything we can do for him, we are more than happy to - klm.com

LANGUAGE NO PROBLEM

DUCH NATIONAL OPERA The spectacular myth

OEDIPE –

George Enescu 6 – 25 December

DUTCH NATIONAL BALLET Famous fairy tale in a magical setting

CINDERELLA –

Chistopher Wheeldon 13 December – 1 January

Free lunch concerts Every Tuesday – Guided tours Every Saturday operaballet.nl

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Contents

WELCOME TO AMSTERDAM

06 Winter Wonderland GET YOUR SKATES ON

In winter, Amsterdam turns into a wonderland of ice skating, Christmas markets and festive fun for all the family.

13 Your Trip MAKE THE MOST OF YOUR STAY

Whether you’re in Amsterdam for 12 hours or a week, we’ve got the perfect itineraries for your trip.

19 Eat, Drink & Shop FESTIVE FEASTS

This holiday season, find out where to eat, which drinks will warm you up, and where to do your Christmas shopping.

35 What’s On CULTURE VULTURE

From the Amsterdam Light Festival to Cats the musical, winter is the season to be awed and amazed.

53 City Guide EXPLORE AMSTERDAM’S NEIGHBOURHOODS

This season’s feature is East, in all its cultural and culinary diversity. Plus, the best places to visit throughout the city.

65 Day Trips DISCOVER THE AMSTERDAM AREA

Winter is the perfect time to escape the big city and take a day trip to one of Old Holland’s villages.

FOR PRACTICAL INFORMATION AND MAP, SEE PAGE 78 V I S I T I A M ST E R DA M.CO M

very year at the end of December, you’ll notice an unusual tension in the Dutch. Scores of people get all excited about the chances of another Elfstedentocht, the traditional ice skating race around eleven cities in the northern province of Friesland. The tradition goes back 110 years to 1909, although to be honest, the race has only actually taken place 16 times since then – the last one in 1998. Some enthusiasts have held on to their required membership of the For more Eleven Cities Organisation information about their whole lives without ever Amsterdam, having taken part; that’s how visit our website: iamsterdam.com ice skating-obsessed we are. Equally anticipated is the possibility to skate on Amsterdam’s Canals. Contrary to popular belief, Amsterdammers do not use the frozen canals to skate to work in winter. But ever since the Canal Ring was constructed in the 17th century, Amsterdammers have been skating on them. In this century, every six or seven years the canals freeze over just enough for the local water authority to halt water traffic on certain canals to make skating possible. If you’re out of luck this winter to witness this amazing sight, don’t worry. You can have a go at skating on one of the artiﬁcial skating rinks throughout the city (see feature article overleaf ). Koek en zopie (food and hot drinks) are provided to complete your Dutch experience. Good luck! Bart van Oosterhout Editor-in-Chief, I amsterdam Magazine Cover image: An artist’s impression of ‘Light a Wish’, one of the artworks to be exhibited during this year’s Amsterdam Light Festival by OGE Group / Merav Eitan and Gaston Zahr / oge-group.com

Winter 6 | TEXT: ALISON MCGARRY

Oliebollen are a favourite winter treat among locals and visitors alike.

Winter Wonderland During the holiday season, Amsterdam lives up to its picture-postcard image more than ever. The cobbled streets are festively decorated, the bridges glow with fairy lights, and oliebollen vendors keep hungry Christmas shoppers in good spirits.

n early 2018, temperatures plunged so low that the canals froze over for the ﬁrst time since 2012, creating a visual spectacle in the centre of our own little winter wonderland. The icy waterways delighted visitors as well as locals, who dusted oﬀ the skates they keep stored away in their basements and took a spin on the ice.

The Golden Bend

The Canal Ring, a network of canals that gives Amsterdam its unique and world-famous layout, dates all the way back to the 17th century, when its construction began as part of a plan to extend the city for housing and commercial developments

by draining the existing marshland. It was an exemplary feat of town planning and hydraulic engineering, and much talked about across Europe. In the same century, the Netherlands entered its Golden Age, quickly rising to economic prosperity as a centre of international trade. The canals became a prestigious address, and grand mansions arose, particularly on the ‘Golden Bend’, a notable stretch of the Herengracht. Many of these canal-side homes have been carefully preserved over the years, and the Canal Ring itself was officially recognised as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2010.

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‘In early 2018, temperatures plunged so low that the canals froze over for the first time since 2012.’

Winter

8 | AMSTERDAM WONDERLAND

INSIDER TIP

The Eleven Cities Tour When it’s cold enough for the natural ice to become at least 15 cm thick, the Elfstedentocht (Eleven Cities Tour) sets off in the province of Friesland. This long-distance ice-skating event (part speed-skating competition, part recreational event for daring amateurs) winds in a challenging loop

through, yes, 11 cities: Leeuwarden, Sneek, IJlst, Sloten, Stavoren, Hindeloopen, Workum, Bolsward, Harlingen, Franeker and Dokkum, covering almost 200 kilometres. It’s a rare occurrence, though: the last time conditions were suitable was more than 20 years ago, in 1997. ELFSTEDENTOCHT.FRL

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‘A great oliebol is fluffy, crunchy, light, and filled with spices, rum, nuts and raisins to warm your heart on a cold day.’ Claudia Dunselman (46), co-owner of Lanskroon bakery at Singel 385

121

Speed skating medals – the Dutch have quite the affinity for sports involving ice!

9 Dutch national sport

When harsh winters prevented boats and barges from passing through the frozen canals, Amsterdam got its skates on, and ice skating has been a national pastime ever since. Paintings by artists such as Hendrick Avercamp, depicting idyllic, snow-dusted ice-skating scenes from the early 17th century, paved the way for the image of the Netherlands as a winter wonderland to be imprinted in the international consciousness forever more. And while US reporter Katie Couric was endlessly mocked for her suggestion that skating is an everyday mode of transport in the Dutch capital, the nation’s combined 121 speed skating Olympic medals do indicate an affinity for sports on ice. Even if frozen canals are not on the forecast for this year, you can still practise your pirouettes on one of the temporary ice rinks that pop up around the city during the

winter months. The popular rink Ice*Amsterdam returns to Museumplein until 3 February 2019, and in previous years, smaller rinks have enticed the crowds on Leidseplein and Rembrandtplein. Skates are available to hire (if you don’t happen to have your own to hand), and the surrounding Winter Market held between 14 and 26 December will soon warm you up with a hot cup of glühwein or chocolademelk. However, if you’re after more of a pro-athlete experience, the Jaap Eden ice skating rink, home to the Amstel Tijgers ice hockey team, is open to the public several days a week and even oﬀers disco skating on Saturday nights.

Festive lights

Since 2012, the canals have held another prominent position in Amsterdam’s advent calendar of festive entertainment. While Christmas

lights in many cities largely feature grinning Santas and flickering Frosty the Snowmen, Amsterdam (as usual) takes a more artistic approach. The Amsterdam Light Festival is an outdoor exhibition that showcases light installations by local and international artists on and by the water. The works are displayed throughout the Canal Ring, which provides a beautiful backdrop of historic significance. At this year’s edition, 30 installations are on show from 29 November 2018 until 20 January 2019. They can be viewed by walking or cycling along the canals, or, for the most immersive experience, from a boat. The major canal tour companies host dedicated Amsterdam Light Festival tours that transport passengers through the inspiring exhibits in around 90 minutes.

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Eat, drink and be merry The winter season is the perfect excuse to sample traditional Dutch food and drinks. Whether you’re huddling around a market stall or steaming up the windows in a cosy café, treat yourself to festive favourites like hot chocolademelk (sometimes spiked with rum), Dutch apple pie, pea soup known as snert or erwtensoep, and deep-fried sugar-dusted oliebollen, traditionally eaten on New Year’s Eve.

INSIDER TIP

‘The canals are most beautiful at night. I love catching a glimpse of the colourful light displays when I’m cycling by.’ Gosia Rabakon (33), project coordinator

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Winter

10 | AMSTERDAM WONDERLAND

Light a wish

Among the highlights of this year’s Amsterdam Light Festival is the ‘Light a Wish’ installation by Israeli artists OGE Group. The artwork, depicting dandelion seeds blowing in the wind, supports the work of children’s charity Make-a-Wish Nederland. A portion of the ticket price from all cruises booked through the Blue Boat Company during the festival will also be donated to the foundation. BLUEBOAT.NL/EN/LIGHT_A_WISH

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Of course, there is no shortage of traditional seasonal displays either. You can always rely on a grand department store to contribute to the festive atmosphere through its theatrical window displays, and Amsterdam’s de Bijenkorf is no exception. The store on Dam Square twinkles with thousands of (energy-efficient) lights that decorate its building, and the window displays are always themed. © KOEN SMILDE

Christmas markets

Christmas markets, like the one near Ice*Amsterdam on the Museumplein behind the Rijksmuseum, provide the I AMSTERDAM MAGAZINE

Taste speculaas at one of Amsterdam’s Christmas markets, or indulge in a chocolate letter...

Winter landscapes masterpieces

For a glimpse into Amsterdam’s winters of the past, look no further than the Golden Age masterpieces on display in the Rijksmuseum. In the 17th century, Dutch landscape artists such as Hendrick Avercamp, Adam van Breen and Jan van Goyen painted emotive scenes of entire communities wrapped up warm and enjoying ice skating, sledding, Fore more socialising and even ice fishing.

details on this winter's events, visit our website: iamsterdam.com/ whats-on

RIJKSMUSEUM.NL

Dinner and a show

Dinner theatre events offer a memorable night out during the holiday season. The WinterParade provides an up-close-andpersonal experience as a host of entertainers perform across a 120-metre long table. It’s held at the Zuiderkerk in Amsterdam on various dates in December and on 4 and 5 January at De Grote Kerk in Haarlem. Palazzo also combines fine dining with a live show, featuring comedy and acrobatics in an opulently decorated marquee near the Johan Cruijff ArenA. Tables are available between 22 November 2018 and 3 March 2019. WINTERPARADE.NL, PALAZZO.ORG/AMSTERDAM/EN

perfect opportunity to shop for one-ofa-kind Christmas gifts, or simply to get your ﬁll of speculaas and poffertjes. Beginning in late November, markets are held almost every weekend in neighbourhoods across the city. They’re the perfect place to ﬁnd art, jewellery, artisanal food products, locally designed homeware and handcrafted decorations. Shopping is usually accompanied by a soundtrack of carol singers and festive entertainment, and perhaps best of all, you can enjoy the warm, fuzzy feeling that comes with the knowledge that you’re supporting local makers and artists.

Further afield

Quaint and cosy markets also spring up throughout the Amsterdam Area in cities like Alkmaar, Edam, Amstelveen and Lelystad. Haarlem’s Christmas Market is another seasonal favourite, which celebrates its 25th anniversary on 8 and 9 December 2018. A vast assortment of stalls cluster under the Grote Kerk in the festively decorated city centre. It’s worth taking a day trip to the historic castles located just outside of Amsterdam at any time of year but especially so during the holiday season. Slot Assumburg castle in Heemskerk hosts the extravagant Castle Christmas Fair I AMSTERDAM MAGAZINE

each year on its beautifully manicured grounds (thanks to covered marquees and open ﬁres). This year’s event runs from 29 November until 2 December. Whether we’ll be treated to the same snow-capped scenery and natural ice rinks again this winter remains to be seen. In any case, there are countless opportunities to experience a fairy-tale winter season straight out of an Avercamp painting.

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14 15 16 17

Twelve Hours Twenty-four Hours Forty-eight Hours Seventy-two Hours

How to spend your time in 12, 24, 48 or 72+ hours

2019: Rembrandt Year

Come face-to-face with the quintessential master of the Dutch Golden Age in a new major exhibition titled All the Rembrandts at the Rijksmuseum. The exhibition opens the Rembrandt Year 2019 (rembrandt-2019.nl), which marks 350 years since the famous artistâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s death. There are Rembrandtrelated events throughout the year, including at the artist's former home, now the Rembrandt House Museum. DURATION: 2 HOURS

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Your Trip

Challenge your friends to retro arcade games over a drink at the TonTon Club (three locations in Amsterdam).

14 | TEXT: ALISON MCGARRY

Whether it’s a whirlwind trip or a long luxurious stay, make the most of every hour in Amsterdam with our guide to what to see and do.

How to spend your time in… 12

hours in Amsterdam

Get your skates on Carve up the ice on one of the city’s outdoor skating rinks, like Ice*Amsterdam on Museumplein, open until 3 February 2019. DURATION: 1 HOUR

Get into the festive spirit

Catch a concert of Christmas classics at the Royal Concertgebouw or a ballet at the National Opera & Ballet or the Royal Theatre Carré. DURATION: 2 HOURS

Visit Anne Frank’s House and the Westerkerk

The Anne Frank House museum on the Prinsengracht, the Frank family’s hiding place for more than two years, provides a chilling reminder of World War II. Just steps away, the Westerkerk, mentioned several times in Anne’s diary, is an architecturally stunning church that towers overs the Jordaan neighbourhood and is also where Rembrandt is buried. DURATION: 2 HOURS

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Rediscover chocolate milk

The Dutch answer to hot cocoa is warme chocolademelk: heated chocolate milk topped with whipped cream and marshmallows. It’s every bit as good as it sounds, and extra warming with a splash of rum. DURATION: 30 MINUTES

Admire light displays from the water

This city built on water is best experienced from a boat. Take a canal cruise at night and you’ll get to see the captivating light installations of Amsterdam Light Festival which runs until 20 January 2019. Order your canal cruise ticket online to save time on the day via iamsterdam.com/canalcruise, or get a free canal cruise with the I amsterdam City Card. DURATION: 1 HOUR

A labyrinth of narrow streets and canals dotted with independent art galleries, antique shops, courtyard gardens and atmospheric bars and restaurants, the Jordaan is a postcard-perfect slice of Amsterdam and the perfect location for Christmas shopping. DURATION: 2 HOURS

Shop your way through the Nine Streets

See the world’s largest Van Gogh collection

Go beyond the paintings and delve into the artist’s life at the Van Gogh Museum (free with the I amsterdam City Card). Along with more than 200 paintings, including iconic works like ‘Sunflowers’ and ‘The Potato Eaters’, artefacts, letters and sketches give insight into Van Gogh’s personal experiences. DURATION: 2-3 HOURS

Make the most of oliebollen season

hours in Amsterdam

In the lead up to Christmas, oliebollen stalls start to pop up on street corners around the city. These pillowy doughnuts, dusted with powdered sugar, are a traditional Dutch treat typically eaten on New Year’s Eve – but in reality throughout the festive season.

DURATION: 30 MINUTES

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Your Trip

16 | MAKE THE MOST OF YOUR TRIP

Book a table at Moon or MA’DAM in the A’DAM Tower for spectacular views of the New Year’s Eve fireworks.

Eat sustainably

Offset some of the seasonal indulgence by dining at one of the city’s eco-conscious eateries. Café de Ceuvel in Amsterdam Noord focuses on sustainability and homegrown ingredients, while restaurant Instock (photo) makes delicious creations from surplus food that would otherwise be wasted.

hours in Amsterdam

Rummage for antique treasures at an indoor market, such as the impressive IJHallen flea market held once a month at NDSM wharf – it’s one of the biggest in Europe. DURATION: 2-3 HOURS

See an arthouse ﬁlm

Amsterdam’s boutique cinemas add a unique ambience to a night at the movies. Try Rialto Film Theatre in De Pijp, The Movies on Haarlemmerdijk, Ketelhuis Cinema in Westerpark or Kriterion in the Plantage neighbourhood. Most films are screened in their original language with Dutch subtitles. DURATION: 1.5-2 HOURS

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Hunt and gather

Rummage for antique treasures at an indoor market, such as the impressive IJHallen flea market held once a month at NDSM wharf – it’s one of the biggest in Europe. Duration: 2-3 hours

Hunt and gather

DURATION: 1 HOUR

Get insider knowledge on your favourite beer by touring De Prael Brewery, Kleiburg Brewery or Oedipus Brewing Taproom.

hours or more

Step into a fairy tale

Recreate your very own fairy tale at Amsterdam Castle Muiderslot (free with the I amsterdam City Card), an extraordinary piece of history built in 1280, complete with moat, drawbridge and elaborate gardens.

Experience a magical Christmas village

DURATION: 4 HOURS

Do some last-minute gift shopping and soak up the festive atmosphere at the Christmas markets in Amsterdam and the surrounding region. Haarlem’s Christmas Market on 8 and 9 December is a local favourite.

Visit Haarlem’s museums

Admire Frans Hals’ masterpieces at the Frans Hals Museum – an inspiring experience for the building alone – or delve into art and scientific discoveries at the Teylers Museum, one of the oldest museums in the Netherlands. Both are free with the I amsterdam City Card.

DURATION: 2-3 HOURS

Go windmill spotting

Travel back in time at the Zaanse Schans, a carefullypreserved historic village filled with museums, windmills and traditional houses. Take a guided tour, clog-making workshop or explore the Zaans Museum (free with the I amsterdam City Card). DURATION: 4 HOURS

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IAMSTERDAM.COM/CITY-CARD

Get your I amsterdam City Card at one of our visitor centres (see page 78) for free entry to many of Amsterdam’s museums and attractions, plus great discounts and special offers.

DURATION: 3 HOURS

1. DUTCH MASTERS PLAYMOBIL These Playmobil figurines are based on figures from Rembrandt’s 'The Night Watch' and Vermeer’s 'The Milkmaid' paintings. €5.95 each

2. TONY’S CHOCOLONELY CHOCOLATE The famous ethical chocolate producer Tony’s Chocolonely is also one of the most creative brands, with flavours such as dark cherry meringue. €1.25 – €3.79

3. LOWLANDER BEER GIFT SET Launched in 2016 to revive the Dutch culture of beer brewing, the Lowlander brand brings botanicals back into the brewery. Gift set of three beers and a glass for €14.95

4. KLM STEWARDESS DOLL Your children will love taking off to exotic destinations with the KLM stewardess doll. She’s dressed up just like a real flight attendant and carries a trolley bag. €19.95

5. VAN GOGH COLOURING BOOK With the Colour-Your-Own Van Gogh colouring book, kids and adults can get inspired by Van Gogh’s work and then make it their own. €14.99

I amsterdam Store IJhal, Centraal Station

Central Station main entrance

20 Comforting Bowl Food 22 Festive Feasts 23 Winter Warmers 24 Scenic Shopping 26 Middle East Eats 27 Fine Dining 28 Southern Shopping 30 Date-Night Dining 31 Dutch Beauty 32 Shopping Central

Where to indulge in Amsterdam Entrepot

Recently voted ‘Best New Restaurant’ at the Foodbloggers Awards by leading local food writers, it’s all about local, seasonal ingredients cooked on an open fire here. Some of the most memorable dishes are vegled (starters from €7, mains from €20), the wine pairings are spoton and the atmosphere laidback.

ENTREPOTDOK 7-8 RESTAURANTENTREPOT.NL

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Eat

Cook your own soups and stews at home in Delft style with this BK Royal Dutch Oven. €249 at Hudson’s Bay.

20 | TEXT: KARIN ENGELBRECHT

ROKIN 21-49, HUDSONSBAY.NL

Yuan’s Hot Pot

This recently opened Chengdu fondue specialist is already a hit with the local Chinese community. Swipe through a dazzling array of meats, vegetables and tofu products on a tablet-based menu, choosing from authentic Chinese favourites such as black fungus, chewy flat sweet potato vermicelli, chicken feet and tripe or less ‘scary’ options such as shrimp dumplings, spicy beef, enoki mushrooms, Chinese cabbage and tofu (from €0.90). Then, slip your bamboo-skewered selection into a simmering ‘secret family recipe’ soup base, which can also be ordered vegetarian, extra spicy or half-half (from €9.90), with a sesame oil-based dip (€1.90) on the side. RIJNSTRAAT 51 YUANHOTPOT.COM

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Local label Urban Nature Culture’s Sea Flower Bowl (€12.95 at Parque) comes in an enchanting sea anemone orange. QUELLIJNSTRAAT 103, PARQUE.AMSTERDAM

Cecconi’s

Bowled Over

For superlative pasta (we recommend the lobster spaghetti, pictured, €28) head to the Amsterdam outpost of Cecconi’s at Soho House, where you’ll find other north Italian crowdpleasers like risotto and Parmigiana. SPUISTRAAT 210 CECCONISAMSTERDAM.COM

Warm food that can be tucked into straight from a bowl is perhaps the very definition of cold weather comfort. Restaurant Moeders If it’s cosiness you crave, try this quaint eatery inspired by mums and decorated with hundreds of photos of them. Full of Dutch classics like snert (split pea soup) and stamppot (Dutch mash). ROZENGRACHT 251 MOEDERS.COM

hile we’ve been eating from bowls for millennia, lately it seems that everything served in a concave vessel has achieved some cult-like status, from the burrito bowls that clog up our daily Instagram feed to the much tut-tutted ‘trendy bowl food’ served at Prince Harry and Meghan Markle’s standing wedding breakfast. Yet come cold weather the allure is easy to understand. There is something intrinsically soothing and appealingly relaxed about eating from a bowl. And, there’s more to so-called bowl food than the smoothie, Buddha and poké bowls so beloved in #fitgirl culture: think of soups, stews, tagines, risottos and other hearty dishes that’ll warm both your hands and your heart this winter. Italian food is, of course, the ultimate bowl food, and at the newly opened Soho House Amsterdam, you’ll find all the classics. Or go the traditional Dutch route at Restaurant Moeders, where hearty winter favourites are served in baby Dutch ovens. Some restaurants have taken the trend as permission to serve (almost) its entire menu in bowls, like newly opened all-day restaurant Kluis. But at others tradition demands it, like at Yuan’s Hot Pot where a Chengdu-style hot pot is served from steaming stainless steel vessels at the centre of your table.

Kluis

Set in a former bank, this spacious oasis serves bowls all day, from brûléed coconut milk porridge for breakfast to Peking duck salad for lunch to an exquisite tasting menu for dinner (€39 for three courses). HAARLEMMERSTRAAT 118 KLUISRESTAURANT.NL

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Book a five-course dinner at Roberto’s Restaurant (from €95) on 25 December, and discover why its classic Italian kitchen has been an Amsterdam institution for 25 years.

Eat & Drink

APOLLOLAAN 138 (HILTON AMSTERDAM) ROBERTOSRESTAURANT.NL

22 | CHRISTMAS DAY DINING

Librije’s Zusje

Celebrate Christmas in style at what many consider Amsterdam’s best restaurant, where Executive Chef Sidney Schutte will serve a bespoke twoMichelin starred seven-course Christmas menu (€195) from 24-26 December. HERENGRACHT 542-556 (WALDORF ASTORIA AMSTERDAM) LIBRIJESZUSJE.COM

Festive Feasts

Keeping in mind that many local restaurants close over Christmas, hotel restaurants are a safe bet. From dependable Italian fixed-price offerings with live music to exclusive Japanese tasting menus and Michelin-starred blow-outs, here’s where to eat over the holiday in Amsterdam.

Taiko

Inspired by contemporary concepts like Nobu and Zuma, chef Schilo van Coevorden ‘plays with Asian ingredients, unrestrained by traditional boundaries’. His typically delicate treatment of the restaurant’s ‘Ingredient of the Year’ – soy – shows off the unexpected versatility of the humble crop, which also takes a star turn in the six-course Christmas menu (€115) served from 24-26 December. VAN BAERLESTRAAT 27 (CONSERVATORIUM HOTEL) TAIKORESTAURANT.NL

Bluespoon Restaurant

At the Andaz hotel, Christmas lunch or dinner is served in a former library transformed by Dutch design idol Marcel Wanders into a darkly delicious space. A three-course menu (€65) starts with langoustine on fregola with flourishes of carrot, tarragon, black garlic and basil. It continues with venison, celeriac, green cabbage, blueberries, pistachio and cardamom, and finishes with tarte Tatin, salted caramel, pecan, tonka bean and clotted cream. PRINSENGRACHT 587 (ANDAZ AMSTERDAM) BLUESPOON-RESTAURANT.NL

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Winter Warmers Our selection of cold weather cocktails and drinks is guaranteed to fight winter’s chill. Fireplace optional.

inter in Amsterdam can be stunningly cold, and sometimes only a seasonal tipple will do to warm you from the inside out. Traditional Dutch genever is the obvious place to start in Amsterdam, and at Wynand Fockink Proeﬂokaal you can sample some 70 Dutch genevers and liqueurs in an authentic 17th-century tasting house. Or restore your rosy cheeks at cosy House Bar in a former 1645 Dutch family home, where the new

circus-themed cocktail menu includes the ‘Grock’ (Stillery Vodka, fermented lemon and vermouth, pictured, €12) named after a 1930s clown act that performed at Amsterdam’s famous Royal Theatre Carré. The Hemingway-inspired ‘Expat Sazerac’ (€21) at Pulitzer’s Bar is already thematically onpoint with its rich pistachio-infused Talisker whisky, but combine that with salted caramel syrup and Cachaça, and you have a winter winner.

METROPOLITAN, WARMOESSTRAAT 135, METROPOLITAN.NL * WYNAND FOCKINK PROEFLOKAAL, PIJLSTEEG 31, WYNAND-FOCKINK.NL * HOUSE BAR, NIEUWEZIJDS VOORBURGWAL 5, HOUSEBARAMSTERDAM.COM * PULITZER’S BAR, KEIZERSGRACHT 234, PULITZERSBAR.NL

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Metropolitan’s ‘strong’ hot chocolate (rum optional) could rank among the world’s best (from €2.40).

Shop

Checked blazer with bomber detailing (€189.95) and cropped tapered side-stripe trousers (€129.95), both from Summum Woman’s A/W 2018 collection.

24 | SCENIC SHOPPING BOUTIQUES

Shopping District: Negen Straatjes • Jordaan • Haarlemmerdijk

Global Meets Local Loaded with both local and international names in design, art and fashion, this area has true glocal appeal.

he famous canal-straddling ‘Nine Streets’, adjacent Jordaan area as well as Haarlemmerstraat and Haarlemmerdijk encompass perhaps the most picturesque parts of the Centre, with its 17th-century canals, doll-like leaning houses and narrow, meandering lanes. Should you be in the mood to hunt them all down, the area is home to an astonishing number of niche shops, including vintage and fashion boutiques, local design outlets and specialist food stores (don’t miss the organic Farmer’s Market on Noordermarkt, if you happen to be visiting on a Saturday). There are also jewellery stores, art galleries, Dutch designer denim and much more.

Summum Woman

Set in a lovely historic building with a loft-like look, this local label combines classic tailoring and streetwear influences for that effortless Amsterdam cool-girl flair that is both fashion forward and practical. Founded in 1998, the brand's latest collection continues Jos and Jorien Wijkers’ vision of sassy, distinctive style for the woman of today, from size 34/XS to 46/XXL. HARTENSTRAAT 6 SUMMUMWOMAN.COM

Near the Nine Streets, on bustling Leidsestraat, you’ll find the first new-style HUGO store in the world, where the brand’s sharply-cut casual menswear and the HUGO reversed logo collection are presented in a clean, modernist setting featuring interactive kiosks and digital screens. LEIDSESTRAAT 1-3 HUGOBOSS.COM

Sweeten up your sweetheart with handmade bonbons, Oreo brownies or raspberry cheesecake blondies from WALDO. ELANDSGRACHT 91 WALDOPATISSERIE.NL

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@ KYONNE LEYSER

HUGO Menswear Store

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Add a foxy touch to your home BY ASSEMBLI, AVAILABLE FROM STORE WITHOUT A HOME (€24.95). HAARLEMMERDIJK 26 STOREWITHOUTAHOME.NL

INSIDER INTERVIEW Nadine van der Zee (35), founder of The Darling boutique

My Jewellery

This perky pink-walled shop is the place to find trendy non-tarnish jewellery plated in gold, rose gold, silver or black – think layering necklaces, stackable bracelets and bar studs – as well as on-trend accessories and clothing, all for an affordable price. HARTENSTRAAT 12 MY-JEWELLERY.COM

BEST HIDDEN SHOPPING STREET:

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Haarlemmerdijk

Rising rents have recently uprooted many smaller stores on this award-winning shopping street, but you can still find a great range here, from eco-friendly fashion boutiques and lifestyle stores to gourmet specialists, bookstores and toy shops. There’s also an organic farmer’s market on Wednesdays on Haarlemmerplein at the end of the street.

Creating a clothing store with ‘a warm atmosphere and unique items for a friendly price’ is Van der Zee’s notion of ‘spreading a little kindness’. Her ‘collection of treasures’ includes items that are handmade in-store, as well as vintage finds and a few hand-picked labels. ‘We don’t think in terms of target audiences,’ says Van der Zee. ‘Our vintage blouses, for instance, are beloved by stylish grannies and hip young girls alike.’ You could say Van der Zee was incredibly fortunate finding a spot in such a popular location with striking Art Nouveau whiplash woodwork shop windows to boot, but she says, ‘we’re good at spotting opportunities, and somehow we’ve always managed to find affordable rents in prime locations; for our first shop in the Nine Streets, and here on the Haarlemmerdijk, too. What I love about this street is the variety of people who pop in – it’s not only tourists, so if you want to shop where the locals go, come here.’ HAARLEMMERDIJK 43 THEDARLINGAMSTERDAM.COM

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The fresh griddle-baked manoushe with hummus and za’atar spices at The Lebanese Sajeria (€8) is one of the tastiest vegan options in town.

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WIJDE HEISTEEG 1 THESAJERIA.COM

26 | MOREISH MEZZE & MORE

Middle Eastern Eateries For rich, aromatic feasts with plenty of fresh and healthy options, it’s hard to beat the sheer variety offered by Middle Eastern cuisine. Here are a few of our favourite local spots from across the region. De Aardige Pers

Dimitri’s

This cheap and cheerful eatery is beloved by Iranian transplants for its authentic savoury-sour Persian flavours. Start with flatbread and kashke bademjan (smoky aubergine dip) or mast-o-moesir (wild garlic dip). For mains, there are quintessential Persian stews and various grilled kebabs.

This new Eastside eatery mixes up Arabic and Mediterranean influences in its modernised ‘Mezze Menu’ (€28.50, including five seafood, meat and vegetarian dishes per person, plus dessert and coffee). INSULINDEWEG 1 DIMITRIS.AMSTERDAM

Sham

TWEEDE HUGO DE GROOTSTRAAT 13B AARDIGEPERS.NL

EERSTE SWEELINCKSTRAAT 23 BARFISK.NL

Bar Fisk

This melting pot of Middle Eastern flavours brings the bustle of Tel Aviv street markets to Amsterdam with a menu bursting with zest and zing, such as pan-fried sea bream with samphire, almonds and herb crumble (€13.50). You’ll also find regionally inspired cocktails and an all-Israeli wine list.

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For authentic Syrian food, head to a restaurant named after Damascus but overlooking Damrak. You’ll find all the usual maza dishes (from €4.95), including velvety hummus, muhammara (smoked bell pepper dip) and burk jebneh (goat’s cheese pastry parcels) as well as various roasted skewered meats (the lamb kebab, €15.95, is particularly good). Do try the freekeh, a savoury dish of smoked young green wheat, topped with lamb and pine nuts (€16.95). WARMOESSTRAAT 36H SHAMRESTAURANT.NL

‘Eventually it all boils down to love for the product and the amount of time you are willing to invest in creating your dishes,’ says patron-cuisinier of Daalder, Dennis Huwaë (34).

Believe the Hype Set in a former café in the popular Jordaan area, this casual fine dining restaurant has racked up the plaudits since its renovation in 2016.

rom flipping Big Macs to winning the Gault & Millau ‘Most Promising Chef of the Year 2018’ Award, Dennis Huwaë has come a long way. After stints at a long line of two Michelin-starred restaurants, it was at Daalder that he found his niche, because of its ‘extremely high level of quality without the solemn atmosphere and rigid service often found at these restaurants’. The atmosphere is warm and relaxed, and the service immaculate yet unaﬀected. Choose

from a five-course or seven-course Chef’s Menu (from €69), which may include imaginative creations like Daalder’s signature langoustine with barbecued onion gravy, broccoli puree, yuzu and parsley oil, or brown butter-baked scallops with shaved cauliflower, citrusy calamansi, jasmine and hazelnut (pictured). Or, if you’re visiting between 24-31 December, opt for the special holiday seven-course dinner menu (€105). LINDENGRACHT 90, DAALDERAMSTERDAM.NL

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With its interchangeable base, frame and stone design, Choices by DL at Gassan Boutique makes it easy to match your ring to your outfit (€4,885 as pictured).

28 | RETAIL THERAPY

Gassan Boutique

Did you know that the classic round diamond, or ‘brilliant’, is also known as the ‘Amsterdam cut’, because it was developed here? For even more sparkle and shine (thanks to 63 more facets) shop the trademarked Gassan 121® cut by Amsterdam’s most famous diamond trader. At the serene multi-brand Gassan Boutique, you’ll also find designer watches and leading Haute Joaillerie names. P.C. HOOFTSTRAAT 84 GASSAN.COM

Menno Kroon

@ MOKUMISTA

‘For blossoming love, plain delight or the inevitable farewell: every bouquet gives meaning to a special moment,’ says ‘plant whisperer’ Menno

Shopping District: Zuid • Museum Quarter • De Pijp

Southern Belle From age-old art to the latest designer gear, elegant Zuid offers it all.

msterdam’s answer to London’s South Kensington or New York’s Museum Mile is home to some of the world’s best art museums, but also to many of the city’s most exclusive shops and its most well-heeled inhabitants. If you’re looking to burn a hole in your platinum credit card, join the WAGS in the

Kroon (57), owner of Amsterdam’s fanciest flower shop. In addition to some of the city’s most beautiful bouquets and prettiest plants, there are also hand-crafted ceramics by Anouk Kramer and Wonki Ware, and outdoor furniture by Dedon. CORNELIS SCHUYTSTRAAT 11 MENNOKROON.NL

area’s most famous shopping street, the P.C. Hooftstraat, or make a beeline for the premium fashion boutiques along nearby Cornelis Schuytstraat. Bargain shoppers and trend lovers mustn’t miss next door De Pijp, where the century-old Albert Cuyp Market stands adjacent to uber-cool shopping streets. I AMSTERDAM MAGAZINE

Hamburger Christmas ornament (€11.95 at Menno Kroon) that looks good enough to eat.

Insider favourite Frietboutique serves some of the best fries in the city (from €2.50).

10DAYS Store

The motto of this Amsterdam-based fashion brand (M/F and kids), ‘Be unexpected or simple. Never regular’, is reflected in a collection of elevated basics, such as slogan hoodies and super-soft grey slouchy sweaters in 100% cotton (both €119.90) as well as statement pieces, like flamingo pink velvet blazers (€139.90) or ‘neon red’ tulle skirts (€129.90). CORNELIS SCHUYTSTRAAT 18 10DAYS.NL

INSIDER INTERVIEW Pebbles van Noorden & Sammy Berendsen (both 29), co-owners of Frietboutique

BEST HIDDEN SHOPPING STREET:

@ CHARLIE+MAY

Gerard Doustraat

In addition to the clutch of cool concept stores you’ll find on De Pijp’s hippest street, which range from kid-centric and Scandi-chic to eclectic, there are trendy streetwear boutiques with eco-fashion, jeans and sneakers, as well as a Spanish deli, Israeli bakery and cookbook specialist.

On the corner of Cornelis Schuytstraat, two young blondes are selling ‘happiness in a cone’ by way of some of the city’s best fries (and ice cream). What’s their secret? ‘We use only the best ingredients, from premium plantbased oil to the highest-quality potatoes. This sounds easier than it is, because the quality of potatoes can vary from day to day, which means we often have to adjust the baking time or salt ratio – it requires a lot of attention. We give the same attention to our customers. When you stop by you get the full experience: smiling staff, tasty food and even if you just order a coffee on our terrace, you’ll get a mini ice cream in your favourite flavour.’ They love the neighbourhood because it’s so ‘international, open and friendly, like a secret little village in a busy city. And there are lots of specialist stores, all of a high quality. It’s not a one-sizefits-all street.’ JOHANNES VERHULSTSTRAAT 107 FRIETBOUTIQUE.NL

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Opt for an intimate table for two at Waldorf Astoria Amsterdam, where the seasonally themed afternoon teas (€52.50) are famously fantastical.

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HERENGRACHT 542-556 WALDORFASTORIA3.HILTON.COM

30 | ROMANTIC RESTAURANTS

Date-Night Dining Whether this is your first trip to Amsterdam as a couple or your fifth, finding a romantic restaurant in this minimalist-loving land is not easy. If you’re looking for the perfect Valentine’s spot or simply require a table for two, here are some of our favourite restaurants in Amsterdam for a special night out.

De Belhamel

Umami by Han

You can’t go wrong with the classic candlelit dinner à deux, and at De Belhamel you also get a beautiful Belle Époque interior with plenty of original Art Nouveau details, dependable French-Italian fare (from €35 for three courses), and views of two of the city’s most charming waterways.

‘Asian’, ‘modern’ and ‘affordable’ aren’t words usually associated with romance, but that’s because few places do them well. This pearl of the Orient proves there’s no need to sacrifice service, presentation or atmosphere if you reject the clichéd white tablecloths (three-course menu, €27.50).

BROUWERSGRACHT 60 BELHAMEL.NL

OVERTOOM 31 UMAMI-RESTAURANT.COM/ AMSTERDAM

Jacobsz

Brasserie Ambassade

Courting takes on a new meaning in this restored 17thcentury courthouse. Despite its relatively far-flung locale (by Amsterdam standards) in Watergraafsmeer, Jacobsz has been a hit with local foodies since it opened in 2016. Expect contemporary cuisine and carefully considered vin naturel wines (four-course Chef’s Menu, €45).

This lavishly renovated canal house possesses an ambience that art-minded lovers crave, with an impressive collection of colourful COBRA canvases on display. The restaurant exudes romance, with dripping crystal chandeliers, floral arrangements, charming canal views and classic French food. HERENGRACHT 339

RINGDIJK 1, JACOBSZ.AMSTERDAM

BRASSERIEAMBASSADE.NL

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The heady pomegranate scent of ‘The Ritual of Yalda’, inspired by an ancient Persian fruit fest. Gift set (€45) available from Rituals.

Dutch Beauty Say hello to the home-grown heroes of the booming Dutch grooming industry.

ward-winning make-up label Ellis Faas, best known for its ‘universally flattering’ signature lipstick ‘Ellis Red’, based on the colour of blood (pictured, €27, ellisfaas.com) is certainly the Netherlands’ most glamorous beauty brand. Meanwhile, Rituals Cosmetics (rituals.com) is one of its most successful, with a comprehensive range of bath and body products, skincare and makeup, all based on the idea of transforming life’s little routines into relaxing rituals. The power of SMPL lies in simplicity, like the best-selling 100% natural

‘Refreshing Dry Shampoo’ (€17, smplskin.com), which freshens up tired hair while adding volume. With only two ingredients (avocado oil and ‘patented antioxidant Oxofulleram’) Combray’s ‘Rejuvenating Facial Oil’ (from €22.50, combray-skincare.com) is said to be a scientific breakthrough for its ability to mimic and supplement the skin’s own defence mechanisms. Cottoncake’s recently launched fragrance collection ‘inspired by personal travels, memories and moments’ includes the woody ‘Nomade Noir’ and sensual ‘Soft Sencha’ (from €25, cottoncake.nl).

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Sure, shell jewellery was the hit of the summer but puka-shell ear-cuffs also add an unexpected twist to neutral knits. Get yours at Het Schelpenmuseum (Czaar Peterstraat 249).

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32 | SHOPPING CENTRAL

Shopping District: Kalverstraat • Utrechtsestraat• Czaar Peterstraat

Shopping Central Why not head away from the heaving high street to discover the secret shopping areas locals love?

hile many visitors head straight for Kalverstraat, the Netherlands’ most famous shopping street, there are lesser-known locales in the city centre that offer a more riveting retail experience. In the Western Canal Ring, you’ll find art galleries, fashion boutiques, and antique and jewellery stores in the Nieuwe Spiegelstraat, and a clutch of charming décor, beauty and bookstores in the picturesque Leliegracht. Meanwhile, Utrechtsestraat in the Eastern Canal Ring and Czaar Peterstraat, a little further east, offer a truly varied selection of indie boutiques, concept stores, designer furniture outlets and quality food specialists. But, if you prefer to get out of the cold for some tax-free shopping instead, there are always the premium department stores Hudson’s Bay and de Bijenkorf off Rokin.

De Bijenkorf

From glowing bath baubles to scented glitter, Molton Brown’s festive stocking fillers are sure to please, and its latest limited edition – ‘Muddled Plum’ with its notes of ‘oak-aged rum, honeyed Victoria plums and warm saffron’ – seems designed with the holiday season in mind. You’ll find it, and a whole lot more, at Amsterdam’s famous luxury department store, which also boasts the city’s most enchanting Christmas window displays. DAM 1 DEBIJENKORF.NL

BEST HIDDEN SHOPPING STREET:

Architectura & Natura The clue’s in the name: this impressively stocked bilingual bookshop focuses on architectural history, urban design, botanical life, animal studies – and Amsterdam. Some titles, such as Recreating Amsterdam and Landscapology are self-published, while others, like The Book of Leaves and The Art of Animal Anatomy are imported. LELIEGRACHT 22 ARCHITECTURA.NL

Czaar Peterstraat

With its varied selection of high-end fashion boutiques, art galleries and gourmet shops, including specialists in French cheese, Ethiopian coffee, Italian wines, craft beers, niche whiskies, oil and vinegar, single origin chocolate bars and even peanut butter, this locals’ secret on the eastern rim of Centre is well worth discovering.

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Play pirate with this handmade Numero 74 boat cushion at Archive Store (€37).

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INSIDER INTERVIEW Kaman Leung (35), Head of Operations Benelux at Uniqlo

Archive Store

This ‘home of the little gatherer’ presents hip kids toys and fashionable clothing for ages three months to eight years in a cool concept store-like space. You’ll also find design-forward contemporary and vintage furniture and decor items to make your little one’s room a bit more magical. FREDERIKSPLEIN 16-18 ARCHIVE-STORE.NL

Devilishly tempting THE HORNED DIAVOLINO XL SUEDE SHOULDER BAG BY LOCAL DESIGNER LOES VRIJ (€1,195).

Concerto

Music aficionados can spend hours poring over the racks at this independent record store, one of Amsterdam’s largest and most famous. The collection is expansive, covering new and pre-loved CDs, LPs and DVDs in every imaginable genre, from punk rock to classical, with specialist staff to advise. You’ll find listening facilities, an in-store café and, if you’re lucky, a live act. UTRECHTSESTRAAT 52-60 CONCERTO.AMSTERDAM

When Uniqlo opened its first store in the Netherlands in September, the Japanese brand brought its affordable ‘LifeWear’ for the whole family to Amsterdam’s most famous retail street. ‘We believe Kalverstraat is the best location for us, because it’s in the centre of Amsterdam, in the capital of the Netherlands,’ explains Leung. ‘The store is bigger than any other in the Benelux and we’re very proud of our UT graphic tee section, one of only two in Europe.’ The brand, sometimes described as ‘the Japanese H&M’ is known for its collabs with designers like J.W. Anderson and Jil Sander. ‘We also offer items that really fit the Dutch climate, for example our Blocktech [lightweight rainproof and windproof wear], which is perfect when you’re on the bike every day. Personally, I couldn’t live without our Heattech thermal innerwear and our ultralight pocketable down jackets to keep me warm in the winter.’ KALVERSTRAAT 11/ROKIN 12 UNIQLO.COM

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Gauguin & Laval in Martinique

Until 13.01.2019

Plan your visit, tickets online only

Paul Gauguin, The Mango Trees, Martinique (detail), 1887. Van Gogh Museum, Amsterdam (Vincent van Gogh Foundation)

Dates for your Amsterdam agenda For full listings of what’s on in Amsterdam, visit our website: iamsterdam.com/ whats-on

36 38 39 42 44 45 46 48 49 50

Exhibitions Collections Festivals & Events On Stage On Screen Classical Pop & Rock LGBTI Clubbing Family Fun

Buddha’s Life, Path to the Present

Two worlds collide in a new exhibition about the life of Buddha at the Nieuwe Kerk. Expect centuries-old objects from as far back as the third century and up-to-the-minute pieces from 2018. The essence of Buddhism is enlightenment, a state you achieve by becoming aware of the here and now. The exhibition features antique art that tells the life story of Siddhartha Gautama, or Buddha, while contemporary artists represent the ‘now’. Expect Ai Weiwei’s iconic trees to occupy a key position, with works by contemporary figures such as Yoko Ono, Kohei Nawa and Salvador Breed. UNTIL 3 FEBRUARY, NIEUWE KERK

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Exhibitions

For full listings of what’s on in Amsterdam, visit our website: iamsterdam.com/ whats-on

36 | TEXT: DAVID WILLS

Feast for the Eyes – The Story of Food in Photography

ood lovers rejoice: Foam’s latest show focuses on the rich history of food photography across the visual arts, commercial and scientific worlds, and photojournalism. Featuring some big names, including Stephen Shore, Andy Warhol, Martin Parr and Cindy Sherman, this expansive exhibition explores how food is represented using three categories: Still Life, Around the Table, and Playing with Your Food. Sounds like fun to us, and while it’s mouth-watering stuff, it also tackles big themes and deeper meanings. 21 DECEMBER–6 MARCH, FOAM

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STACII SAMIDIN PHOTOGRAPHS THE CAFÉ Photography fans should pop into the Rijksmuseum for this exhibition by Stacii Samidin, a photographer with an eye on society. This new work looks at Dutch bars and cafés, their landlords and landladies, and the people who hang out in them.

RECENT HISTORIES Huis Marseille’s new exhibition focuses on contemporary African photography and video art, bringing into question the documentary depiction of the African continent. Featuring big names in the African art world, the show explores identity, migration and colonialism.

UNTIL 20 JANUARY, RIJKSMUSEUM

8 DECEMBER–3 MARCH, HUIS MARSEILLE

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THE HIDDEN FORCE

— 29 NOV & 6 DEC SURTITLED IN ENGLISH ITA.NL

To rediscover your inner child, head out to the COBRA Museum of Modern Art in Amstelveen for An Unstoppable Force – a show exploring the influence of children’s creativity on art. UNTIL 17 FEBRUARY, COBRA MUSEUM OF MODERN ART

1001 Women in the 20th Century

Metahaven: Earth

The Stedelijk Museum stages Dutch design studio Metahaven’s first museum survey show this winter. Founders Vinca Kruk and Daniel van der Velden create cutting-edge works that effortlessly blend communication, aesthetics and politics to produce art and installations depicting contemporary forms of power through branding and identity. Wow, sounds heavy. The exhibition includes the premiere of their new installation ‘Eurasia (Questions on Happiness)’. UNTIL 24 FEBRUARY, STEDELIJK MUSEUM

The Institute of Ongoing Things

If you like your art installations to be site-specific, then the Jewish Historical Museum is the place to be. Israeli artist Uri Katzenstein brought together a seemingly infinite visual library comprising autobiographical objects, cultural icons, sound and movement. The Institute of Ongoing Things is Uri’s final multi-sensory installation following his sudden passing in August 2018. Tackling big themes including gender, hypocrisy and science fiction, Uri’s work processes both personal and national traumas. The installation presents a futuristic world though video, sculpture, sound and movement. UNTIL 24 FEBRUARY 2019, JEWISH HISTORICAL MUSEUM

Panorama Amsterdam is the latest addition to the Hermitage Amsterdam, the Amsterdam branch of the famous St. Petersburg institute. This brand-new panoramic show lets visitors experience how Amsterdam was founded in the early Middle Ages and how it developed from that time until the present. Using the latest projection technology, it chronicles the emergence of the city, as seen from the vantage point of the Hermitage. See how Amsterdam was built in a swamp on thousands of foundation piles. Visit the Golden Age in detail, including the construction of the Canal Ring, trade and life in the city. This permanent exhibition is included in the general admission ticket. PANORAMA AMSTERDAM, ONGOING, HERMITAGE AMSTERDAM

LITA CABELLUT Spanish artist Lita Cabellut is the focus of a retrospective at Museum Jan van der Togt in Amstelveen. Cabellut’s technique of fusing traditional fresco methods with a contemporary use of oil paint produces portraits with power. It’s about embracing coincidence and allowing a breakdown of paint layers.

TRUE LUXURY It’s all about giving in this exhibition celebrating the role of private donations to museum collections. The Stedelijk Museum has received many works from artists, and this show pays tribute. There are installations by Erik van Lieshout, Arthur Jafa and Canadian artist collective General Idea’s archive.

UNTIL 27 JANUARY, MUSEUM JAN VAN DER TOGT

UNTIL 17 FEBRUARY, STEDELIJK MUSEUM

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Panorama Amsterdam

The Amsterdam Museum shines the light on women this winter with the 1001 Women in the Twentieth Century exhibition, a collaboration with author Els Kloek. Her book highlights remarkable women who played a key role in Dutch history. Come and meet 120 of these famous – and infamous – women through objects, photographs and documents. Uncover their stories as they fought for their rights, moved into the public domain, served in the resistance or excelled in the arts as they went about changing the world. UNTIL 10 MARCH, AMSTERDAM MUSEUM

GAUDI AND THE AMSTERDAM SCHOOL Museum Het Schip hosts an exhibition highlighting the similarities between Gaudí and the Amsterdam School of architecture. Featuring marvellous models by the Catalan architect, the show explores how these architects broke with tradition to produce buildings that pushed boundaries with beauty. UNTIL 1 APRIL, MUSEUM HET SCHIP

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Winter Landscape with Ice Skaters, c. 1608, Hendrick Avercamp

38 | TEXT: DAVID WILLS AND MERRITT GURLEY

Dutch painter Hendrick Avercamp was fascinated by winter and ice skaters, as this aptly titled painting attests. Reminiscent of Pieter Bruegel the Elder’s work, this image depicts a typical Dutch winter scene with hundreds of people out on the ice in various leisure pursuits. A pleasing palette belies the harshness of the scene, where details show people hard at work, a frozen dead horse providing sustenance for crows and a dog in the left foreground, as well as a urinating man and a couple having sex. The painting portrays daily social life at the beginning of the 17th century, one of the coldest periods of the Little Ice Age. RIJKSMUSEUM

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WARMING UP Typically winter portraits show shabbily dressed old men and women who represent the end that the season brings. That makes Caeser van Everdingen’s portrait, ‘A Young Woman Warming Her Hands’ in richly dressed robes all the more striking. RIJKSMUSEUM

IBSEN HOUSE — 13 & 20 DEC SURTITLED IN ENGLISH ITA.NL

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LINEAR CONSTRUCTION IN SPACE NO. 2 Naum Gabo’s ‘Linear Construction in Space No. 2’ was never executed. Naum was one of the first who embraced the concept of time as movement, using taut threads based on mathematical models. STEDELIJK MUSEUM

Festivals & Events TEXT: ALEX HIBBERT |

New Year’s Eve parties

Whether you’re a party animal, looking for a romantic night, a big spender or on a budget, Amsterdam is a great city to ring in the New Year. The Dutch know how to have a good time and the capital is a gezellige (warm and friendly) host. As a compact city, you can travel across Amsterdam quite easily in just one night, and impromptu street parties often pop up in the city on New Year’s Eve. Nieuwmarkt, Leidseplein and Rembrandtplein are all popular hotspots in the city centre, while clubs host events catering to all musical tastes. Fireworks traditionally illuminate the night sky above the Amstel – an attractive spot from which to enjoy the display is the Magere Brug (Skinny Bridge).

31 DECEMBER–1 JANUARY, VARIOUS LOCATIONS

WinterParade

he WinterParade sees hundreds of guests take their seats at a 120-metre long table to enjoy a festive meal and a night of spectacular entertainment. Audience members can watch dance and theatre performances unfold on the event’s huge table as they eat their meal. There’s also an array of different activities which take place around the venue on the night, with past WinterParades featuring bell-ringing classes and a silent disco. Please note that the performances are partially in Dutch but plenty of the entertainment has no language barriers.

Amsterdam Light Festival

The iconic Amsterdam Light Festival sees Dutch and international artists create an array of light sculptures across the city, including the Canal Ring and Amstel River. This annual event transforms Amsterdam into one big open-air light museum, with its spectacular artworks musing on everything from the plight of immigrants to Dutch history and culture in recent years. As well as the walking route, which allows visitors to take in the dazzling illuminated works, the festival’s renowned canal cruises let you get up close to all of the major exhibits. UNTIL 20 JANUARY, AMSTERDAMLIGHTFESTIVAL.COM

NATIONAL TULIP DAY Celebrating the Netherlands’ symbol and one of its most famous exports, the tulip, National Tulip Day sees Dutch tulip growers create a massive temporary garden on Dam Square. Bursting with 200,000 tulips, thousands of people flock to the Dam to pick their own. 19 JANUARY, DAM SQUARE

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20–29 DECEMBER (EXCLUDING 23 & 24), ZUIDERKERK

JUMPING AMSTERDAM The international equestrian event Jumping Amsterdam features some of the world’s best riders, including Olympic champions, who take part in show jumping and dressage competitions. There are shows, evening entertainment, an exhibition space and a children’s programme. 24–27 JANUARY, RAI AMSTERDAM

Festivals & Events 40 | TEXT: ALEX HIBBERT

Valhalla

Valhalla seamlessly fuses two things that aren’t traditionally linked: electronic music and circus communities. That means the best and brightest electronic dance promoters and DJs in Amsterdam teaming up with acrobats and entertainers to host a night filled with the biggest names in dance music and the best of circus culture. Expect to hear deep bass lines and throbbing beats, and see carnival performers, funfair rides and immersive stages. 22 DECEMBER, RAI AMSTERDAM

Transformer

arking World Aids Day on 1 December, Amsterdam Paradiso’s Transformer helps to raise money and awareness with a loud, colourful and fun approach to a serious issue. Featuring a huge line-up of artists,

musicians, bands, DJs, dancers and other performers, this annual charity extravaganza in aid of the Dutch Aids Fund always provides an unforgettable night. 1 DECEMBER, PARADISO

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THE L&B WHISKY WEEKEND AMSTERDAM For one weekend, Amsterdam’s Posthoorn Church is transformed into a whiskylover’s paradise, as over 30 exhibitors offer tastings and talks all about the famous tipple. Ticket price includes a welcome whisky, engraved Glencairn glass, and bottle of water.

IMPRO AMSTERDAM A truly global festival, the International Improvisation Theatre Festival Amsterdam brings a whole week of spontaneous theatre to the city. Alongside the main performances, you’ll find late-night shows, workshops, an open stage, and an after-party to celebrate this brilliant event.

18 & 19 JANUARY, POSTHOORNKERK

26 JANUARY–2 FEBRUARY, COMPAGNIETHEATER

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THE FOUNTAINHEAD —

10 & 17 JAN SURTITLED IN ENGLISH ITA.NL

For full listings of what’s on in Amsterdam, visit our website: iamsterdam.com/ whats-on

TangoTrain

Warm up the wintry days between Christmas and New Year with a week of dance at the TangoTrain festival. Both old and new varieties of tango are incorporated into the programme of this unique festival, which takes place at locations around Amsterdam.

26 DECEMBER–1 JANUARY, VARIOUS LOCATIONS

Sonic Acts Festival

he biennial Sonic Acts Festival explores the intersection of art, science, music and technology by charting the contemporary and historical developments of a theme through concerts, performances, exhibitions, screenings and more. In 2019, Sonic Acts will be celebrating 25 years since the first edition took place in 1994.

Meesterlijk

Meesterlijk translates as masterly in English, and it’s mastering a craft which is celebrated at this independent design fair featuring artisans from Amsterdam and beyond. What started as a sideshow at Dutch Design Week is now an eclectic gathering of international designers that takes place every winter at the Westergasfabriek in Amsterdam. 30 NOVEMBER–2 DECEMBER, WESTERGASFABRIEK

20–24 FEBRUARY, VARIOUS LOCATIONS

LITTLE ITALY TASTE & TRAVEL This event transforms a small corner of Amsterdam into Italy for one weekend. You can sample a selection of its finest foods, attend workshops, relax at an aperitif bar and discover Italy for the first time, or all over again.

CHINESE NEW YEAR Chinese New Year, also known as the Lunar New Year, is the most important event in the Chinese calendar. In Amsterdam it’s generally celebrated around Dam Square and the historic Nieuwmarkt/ Zeedijk neighbourhood on the Saturday nearest to the New Year date.

CHOCOA FESTIVAL Chocolate lovers’ dreams come true at the Chocoa Festival, which examines the origin, production and taste of quality chocolate. Expect to learn how to ‘slow taste’ and to educate yourself on the history of chocolate. Look out for chocolate workshops organised by chocolate makers, plus plenty of tastings!

1–3 FEBRUARY, ZUIVERINGSHAL, WESTERGASTTEREIN

5 FEBRUARY (AND EVENTS THE WEEKEND AFTER)

23 & 24 FEBRUARY, BEURS VAN BERLAGE

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On Stage 42 |

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Cinderella

he ballet about the story of Cinderella is a much-loved classic for the Christmas season, regularly sweeping festive audiences away to a magical world. And this DNB production by choreographer Christopher Wheeldon is particularly heavy on the magical side, with design by Julian Crouch and Basil Twist lending a filmic, dreamlike quality to it. Premiering in 2012, it’s won the prestigious Prix Benois de la Danse and returns this December.

IBSEN HUIS Celebrated director Simon Stone, who’s previously won plaudits for his modern interpretation of Medea, tackles Ibsen. Different strands of the story are brought together in the titular house. SURTITLED 13 & 20 DECEMBER, STADSSCHOUWBURG

13 DECEMBER–1 JANUARY, DUTCH NATIONAL BALLET

WORLD CHRISTMAS CIRCUS The World Christmas Circus is a stalwart of Amsterdam’s Christmas programme. It returns this season for a run of shows at the Royal Theatre Carré. The show features countless stars of the ring and transforms Carré back into what it was originally designed to be: a circus ring. 20 DECEMBER–6 JANUARY, ROYAL THEATRE CARRÉ

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HUSBANDS AND WIVES Simon Stone is a master of modern drama adaptations. His take on Woody Allen’s famous tragicomedy about divorce, Husbands and Wives, depicts ‘the relationship as a nightmare which can only be laughed at – as long as that is possible’. ENGLISH SURTITLES 13 & 20 DECEMBER/14 & 21 FEBRUARY, STADSS CHOUWBURG

INSIDER INTERVIEW Dutch rising star Robert de Hoog is well-regarded in his native country for his varied film, screen and stage roles. The 29-year-old actor is fast becoming a leading light on the international stage, earning accolades including a Golden Calf for best actor and an Emmy nomination for his role in SKIN. He’s currently starring in the series Mocro Maffia. This season, Robert will be starring in Husbands and Wives (see below left), a stage version of Woody Allen’s comedydrama, directed by Simon Stone at the International Theater Amsterdam. Robert tells us: ‘It’s a play about two

couples who are fighting for their marriages. But don't worry, it’s a comedy!’ But before this, he was in Taiwan in November for Kings of War. Directed by Ivo van Hove, this explosive play about leadership brought together Shakespeare’s Henry V, Henry VI and Richard III in a tour de force that enthralled audiences. As you might expect, Robert suggests taking in a performance this winter. His hot tip is to buy tickets to a dance show, saying that the productions at the International Theater Amsterdam are ‘amazing and will blow you away’. And lastly, what’s Robert’s favourite thing about Amsterdam in the winter? ‘At this time of year, Amsterdam reveals its more quiet and poetic nature. There’s a softness to the city in winter that I like. And when it snows it’s as if you’re walking through an 1800s fairy tale.’

Cats

ne of the most successful musicals of all times, Cats is coming to Amsterdam in the original English-language production. The musical by Andrew Lloyd Webber is based on T.S. Eliot’s Old Possum’s Book of Practical Cats, but is now a classic in its own right. Since it premiered in London’s West End in May 1981, it has seen countless productions. It’s the London version, however, that is coming to Amsterdam’s RAI Theatre, with a cast that includes Joanna Ampil as Grizabella and John Brannoch as Rum Tum Tugger. After it opened, Cats became an unmitigated success, running for 21 years straight, seen by over 80 million people, and holding the title of longest-running West End show until 2006. The much-loved musical returned to London for a new run in 2014, and is now touring Europe with several stops in the Netherlands – undoubtedly to the delight of musical lovers throughout the land. 20 DECEMBER–13 JANUARY, RAI THEATRE

THE FOUNTAINHEAD Ivo van Hove’s award-winning stage adaptation of Ayn Rand’s controversial novel about a brilliant, individualist architect first hit the Amsterdam stage in a row of sold-out performances in 2014. This January, it’s back for another run and there are two performances with English surtitles. SURTITLED 11 JANUARY, STADSSCHOUWBURG

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PORGY AND BESS The Dutch National Opera stages the Gershwins’ modern classic, which blends jazz with Western opera and influences from Afro-American and Russian Jewish music. Porgy and Bess features all-time favourites ‘Summertime’ and ‘It Ain’t Necessarily So’. Directed by James Robinson, conducted by James Gaffigan. 16–31 JANUARY, DUTCH NATIONAL OPERA

On Screen 44 | TEXT: MERRITT GURLEY

International Queer & Migrant Film Festival

his multi-day festival explores sexual diversity in migrant populations around the world. Watch world premieres and special film events, delve into sociology and the LGBTI scene, and learn more about groups who are traditionally under-represented. All the films screened will focus on topics that portray or resonate with queer and migrant communities.

5-12 DECEMBER, DE BALIE

Taartrovers

Taartrovers Film Festival is all about creating a playground for the imagination for kids (2-9 years). In the company of their parents and teachers, children can explore intricate sets and installations that are designed to encourage a sense of fantasy and wonder, and watch delightful short films and animations. The line-up might include classics like Matilda or more obscure artistic movies like Papier & Inkt Fanfare, which introduces kids to the endless possibilities of visual language. 16-22 FEBRUARY, VARIOUS LOCATIONS

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EYESHADOW The EYE Filmmuseum’s monthly Eyeshadow evening invites guests to watch a riveting movie followed by a live band. Amp up your December with tickets to the mind-blowing double feature of Pulp Fiction and YIN YIN. When Quentin Tarantino’s 1990s nouvelle violence meets Amsterdam’s finest Thai Psych Funk music, it’s sure to be a wild Saturday night out.

—

29 DECEMBER, EYE FILMMUSEUM

24 JAN — 6 FEB 2019 INTERNATIONAAL THEATER AMSTERDAM

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Classical

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| 45

Christmas concerts

Herz Ensemble – x gen x In this programme, the DutchAustralian composer Kate Moore and her ensemble Herz present the works of ten international colleagues, including

JOSHUA BELL & ACADEMY OF ST MARTIN IN THE FIELDS The American star violinist and music director of London’s Academy of St Martin in the Fields plays in Saint-Saëns’ dramatic, melodic Violin Concerto no. 3. The Academy also performs Samuel Barber’s Adagio for Strings op. 11.

RCO – HORIZON: BARCELONA AND AMSTERDAM The Royal Concertgebouw Orchestra presents an audio-visual celebration of Barcelona and Amsterdam’s architecture of the early 20th century. Featuring music from Ravel, Christiaan Richter, Blai Soler and George Benjamin.

8 JANUARY, ROYAL CONCERTGEBOUW

17 JANUARY, ROYAL CONCERTGEBOUW

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Marie Guilleray, Linda Buckley, Jobina Tinnemans and Lam Lai, who all write in a spirit of diversity and globalisation. 7 FEBRUARY, MUZIEKGEBOUW AAN ’T IJ

ith twinkling lights reflected on the canals, gorgeous concert venues and beautiful churches, Amsterdam is great for feeling festive, and the concert schedule is packed accordingly. Muziekgebouw aan ’t IJ is the place to be for baroque works: on 11 December, there’s Bach cantatas by the Netherlands Bach Society; a day later, InAlto and soprano Alice Foccroulle perform early baroque works by Heinrich Schütz and others. On 15 December, the Italian ensemble Coro e Orchestra Ghislieri dedicates an evening to Neapolitan composers Francesco Durante and Davide Perez; and on 23 December it’s time for Bach’s Christmas Oratorio, performed by the Netherlands Chamber Choir. That work can also be heard in the beautiful De Duif church on 16 December. The Royal Concertgebouw too goes all-out this season, with festive blockbusters such as carols and English choral classics by the Choir of King’s College Cambridge (11 December) and the Choir of St John’s College Cambridge (16 December). On 12 December, pianist Jan Vayne joins the Bach Choir and Orchestra for a selection of much-loved classical Christmas tunes; and on 18 December, it’s cinematic crowd-pleasers with Christmas Classics at the Movies.

VIENNA PHILHARMONIC – JUPITER SYMPHONY One of the world’s most renowned orchestras, conducted by Adam Fischer, comes to Amsterdam to play Mozart’s high-energy Jupiter Symphony and, joined by violinist Leonidas Kavakos, the Violin Concerto in A Major. 26 FEBRUARY, ROYAL CONCERTGEBOUW

Pop & Rock

46 | TEXT: ALEX HIBBERT AND DAVID WILLS

Mariah Carey

The Dandy Warhols

Perhaps our greatest living diva, just the very thought of getting to hear ‘All I Want for Christmas Is You’ live and so close to Christmas Day itself is all the excuse we need to go to this gig.

2019 marks 25 years for The Dandy Warhols, a band with an American indie sound that spans psychedelia, pop, funk and a bit of rock for good measure. Expect the hits and their best tracks from all nine albums in what we’re sure will be a blistering night out. We can hear the ‘whoa, whoos’ from ‘Bohemian Like You’ already.

13 DECEMBER, ZIGGO DOME

26 JANUARY, PARADISO

irestarters The Prodigy are touring Europe with a touchdown in Amsterdam. Expect the Ziggo Dome to be set alight with a blazing performance featuring material from their new album No Tourists plus some of their big hits. Never ones to shy away from controversy, the ‘godfathers of rave’ are sure to bring the house down with their fierce big-beat sound. 9 DECEMBER, ZIGGO DOME

ALL THE LUCK IN THE WORLD Berlin-based but hailing from Ireland, All the Luck in the World share a passion for storytelling which they craft into an alternative folk sound. That includes taking a DIY approach to instrument construction and sampling all manner of organic sounds. 12 DECEMBER, SUGARFACTORY

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25 JANUARY, AFAS LIVE

The Prodigy © CHRISTOPHER JOHNSON

A few years back, synth-pop act Years & Years released ‘King’, a track that had the world on its feet. Fastforward to now, second album Palo Santo has been released to critical acclaim with a tour that shares intimate and personal stories about identity, sexuality and the human spirit. Drawing inspiration from Bowie, GaGa, sci-fi and Prince, you can expect a mix of jumpin’ tracks and chilled ballads in an electrifying show with Olly Alexander as your orator.

Years & Years

ALISON MOYET One of England’s biggest voices returns to the Paradiso. Alison Moyet’s The Other Tour brings together her 35-year career covering synth-pop and dubstep with a nod to jazz and blues. Recent albums have dabbled in subdued electronica, but her shows are moving experiences. 17 JANUARY, PARADISO

For full listings of what’s on in Amsterdam, visit our website: iamsterdam.com/ whats-on

Nile Rodgers & Chic

A true living legend, Nile Rodgers’ impact on contemporary music cannot be understated. From writing some of the most iconic songs still filling dancefloors today to producing artists at the very top of their game (hello Madonna and Bowie), Rodgers has done it all. What’s even more amazing is that, despite recently overcoming cancer and being 66 years old, he’s still relentlessly playing spectacular live shows with the latest line-up of his seminal band Chic. As well as tracks from the group’s latest album (and first in 26 years) It’s About Time, get ready to dance to classics including ‘Get Lucky’, ‘Greatest Dancer’, ‘Good Times’ and ‘Le Freak’.

ANNA CALVI Two Mercury Prize nominations, critical acclaim and sold-out shows, British singer-songwriter Anna Calvi’s rise has been phenomenal. Then again there really isn’t a talent like hers: merging gothic rock, sparse guitar lines and a voice which screams and soothes as alluringly as an impassioned lover. 23 JANUARY, MELKWEG

10 DECEMBER, AFAS LIVE

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NILS FRAHM A rock star sporting a grand piano in place of a guitar, German pianist Nils Frahm is a poster boy for the classical crossover. Live, his shows see him flitting between towers of keyboards, pianos and other instruments to create soundscapes boasting both beats and beauty. 15 FEBRUARY, AFAS LIVE

BODEGA Named after the corner shops that feed New York, Bodega’s songs deliver sniping critiques of contemporary culture with a sardonic sneer. Debut album Endless Scroll details mankind’s evolving addiction to screens in 14 tracks that merge punk and nods to LCD Soundsystem and The Rapture. 26 FEBRUARY, BITTERZOET

Every Friday, discover the city’s gay history on the LGBT History Walking Tour. Visit the world’s first monument commemorating LGBT people who died during World War II, and end with drinks at Amsterdam’s first gay bar.

LGBTI 48 | TEXT: DAVID WILLS

Bear-Necessity

3x NYX

x NYX is one of the most popular LGBTI nights in Amsterdam, but – of course – people of all backgrounds, sexualities and identities are more than welcome. Expect a range of music in this three-storey extravaganza, including

pop, house, hip-hop, R&B and even a few ’90s guilty pleasures. There’s some topnotch entertainment on offer too with an ever-changing array of party nights. EVERY SATURDAY, NYX

Amsterdam is BearNecessity’s home base, a regular party night for men with beards and body hair and their admirers. It’s an attitudefree event for real men to meet, socialise and dance in a relaxed

atmosphere. DJs spin progressive, underground tracks with a focus on quality music leagues away from floor-fillers and commercial hits. They’re ending the year in suitably hirsute style with their ‘End of the Year’ party with guest DJ Ricardo Ruhga. 29 DECEMBER, CLUB PANAMA

PATHÉ GAY NIGHT Every month, Pathé De Munt screens a special gay movie. Arrive half an hour before the film starts to enjoy a drink at the reception. There’s also a chance to win DVD packages. Check the Pathé website for more information.

BUBBLES AND BITES Head to Amsterdam’s Prik for Bubbles & Bites, a Sunday afternoon session featuring pop music and disco classics. The crew at Prik serves tasty, free, snacks from 5-7 pm, and pink or white prosecco is available on tap for just €3 a glass.

FIRST WEDNESDAY OF EVERY MONTH, PATHÉ DE MUNT

EVERY SUNDAY, PRIK AMSTERDAM

IT’S BINGO NIGHT! Every Tuesday, a glamorous guest drag queen presents bingo at The Queen’s Head, one of Amsterdam’s oldest and friendliest gay bars. Expect an entertaining evening where everyone is welcome to join in the fun in this straight-friendly, canal-side gay bar. EVERY TUESDAY, THE QUEEN’S HEAD

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TEXT: ALEX HIBBERT |

Thuishaven Wintercircus

Liquicity Winter Festival

Showcasing the best liquid drum & bass talent from around the world, Liquicity Winter Festival takes over Amsterdam NDSM Wharf’s Scheepsbouwloods. An old shipyard that has been converted into a giant music venue, the indoor setting makes it the perfect location for a winter celebration. Get ready for a night of incredible drum & bass and dancing between Christmas and New Year. 28 DECEMBER, SCHEEPSBOUWLOODS

Nomads Festival Presents: The Winter Oasis

ot just a club, Thuishaven offers clubbers a unique experience, where a walk past massive oil tankers and piles of rusty scrap metal uncovers stages, bars and even a hangar. During the Thuishaven Wintercircus season, revellers party inside heated tents and that remarkable hangar, while DJs spinning tunes include Loco Dice, Dimitri and Job Jobse.

To kick-off the last holiday of 2018, Nomads Festival pays tribute to its festival heritage with a special winter show. If dancing barefoot among smiling people is your thing, then head on in for a selection of disco, funk, techno and house cuts. It’s all warm and happy vibes here. 22 DECEMBER, THUISHAVEN

1, 9, 16 & 23 DECEMBER, 26 JANUARY, THUISHAVEN

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WICKED JAZZ SOUNDS If you've ever fancied a club night that fuses dance music and jazz, look no further than Wicked Jazz Sounds. Every Sunday, DJs and musicians join forces to weave jazz, hip-hop, funk and more into a kaleidoscopic collage of sounds and beats guaranteed to leave a smile on your face.

HUSBANDS AND WIVES — 13 & 20 DEC 14 & 21 FEB SURTITLED IN ENGLISH

ITA.NL

ENCORE At Amsterdam’s premier hip-hop and R&B night, you can expect to hear everything from old-school tracks to the newest beats around. Over the last four years, ENCORE has cemented its reputation as one of the best hip-hop and R&B nights in the city. EVERY SATURDAY, MELKWEG

NOODLANDING! With an eclectic mix of hip-hop, rock, dance and electro, Noodlanding! is the city’s longest-running alternative dance night. Having featured special guests Girl Talk, Z-Trip and Cut Copy in the past, it’s the perfect night for people looking to start their weekend early. EVERY THURSDAY, PARADISO

EVERY SUNDAY, SUGARFACTORY

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50 | TEXT: MERRITT GURLEY

Theatre Mania

ICE*Amsterdam

t ICE*Amsterdam you can glide through Museumplein holding mittened hands with friends and family, snap holiday photos that capture the city’s winter sparkle, and warm up with a steaming mug of hot chocolate afterwards. The kids will be all smiles and rosy cheeks as they snack on kruidnoten, the local take on a gingerbread cookie, and revel in the perfect winter day. Shopping Tip: From 14–26 December there will be a popup Christmas market surrounding the rink, with stalls and tents selling festive treats, warm food, Christmas trees, wreaths and all manner of presents. UNTIL 3 FEBRUARY, MUSEUMPLEIN

UNBOXING BALLET Touring the Netherlands this winter, Unboxing Ballet is a spellbinding mix of classical and contemporary ballet danced at the highest level of technique and virtuosity. 25–26 JANUARY, DE MEERVAART

PARADISO’S 50TH JUBILEE CHILDREN’S WONDERLAND PARTY The Paradiso is celebrating its 50-year anniversary with a topsy-turvy tea party, inviting children to join Alice and the Madhatter in wacky workshops, goofy games, and freaky performances that will transport the whole family through the looking glass. 15 DECEMBER, PARADISO

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Winter promises a rotating roster of fabulous kid-friendly matinée performances across Amsterdam. At DeLaMar Theater, kids will love the madcap adventure in The Crazy Tree Hut of 13 Floors (17 February), and the sweet portrayals of friendship in Frog and the Shooting Star (18 February), based on the popular books by Max Velthuijs. Both shows are in Dutch but the action is easy to follow. Theater Terra will be taking the classic musical Aladdin on tour through the Netherlands from 11 January to 26 May, treating families to a colourful rendition of the pauper-turnedprince (with the help of a genie) tale. At the Schouwburg Amstelveen watch the story of Tarzan (10 February) come to life through the art of puppetry.

COLOUR PARTY Spark your creativity at the Colour Party, where children aged 2–8 can draw and paint whimsical works of art to the soundtrack of live music at Stadsschouwburg. Kids will enjoy the colourful crafts while parents will appreciate the tunes by Sam Cooke, the Beatles, Elvis and more. 16 DECEMBER, STADSSCHOUWBURG

The Maritime Museum has endless entertainment for sea-faring kids. On a swashbuckling tour of the East Indiaman Amsterdam ship, Rinus the Rat guides you through fun activities like firing a cannon, hoisting cargo and scuttling through the hold, giving you an idea of what life was like aboard the real 18th-century ship all those years ago.

Santa Tram

Amsterdam Magic Show

All aboard for a merry Christmas! Jingle jangle through the city on the Amsterdam Mamas’ special tram ride that is more packed with holiday magic than a stocking on Christmas morning. There will be face-painting, festive treats, a craft corner, Christmas carols and a photo shoot with the big guy himself: Santa. Book tickets via Amsterdam Mamas on Facebook: facebook.com/amsterdam.mamas

Families with kids ages eight and up should check out the Amsterdam Magic Show, performed by an ensemble cast of magicians, mystifiers and illusionists from across Europe who blur the line between the possible and the imagined. 4 DECEMBER, 8 JANUARY & 5 FEBRUARY, BOOM CHICAGO

9 DECEMBER, MUSEUM TRAMWAY

SnowPlanet

Why wait for the weather to enjoy a white Christmas? Head to SnowPlanet where the forecast is always frosty flurries and powdery fun! During the holidays, SnowPlanet invites children aged 5–12 to participate in Kids Days, with supervised skiing and snowboarding lessons from 8.30 am–4 pm.

Rijksmuseum Winter Landscape Family Painting Workshop

Get inspired by the paintings of Hendrick Avercamp, whose dreamy depictions of ice skaters twirling across glittering winter landscapes have made him a favourite in the Dutch lexicon. After a 30-minute tour of the Rijksmuseum, your family will have the chance to paint your own winter masterpiece. Icicles, snow banks, star-shaped cookies… let your imagination run wild.

22 DECEMBER–24 FEBRUARY, SNOWPLANET

Stargazing for kids

At the Anton Pannekoek Institute for Astronomy in Science Park Amsterdam, get a closer look at the vast night sky, twinkling with nature’s own Christmas lights: the stars. The stargazing events include a lecture, a peek through the powerful telescope, a tour of the domes and – on 25 January – crafts for kids.

23 DECEMBER–6 JANUARY, EXCEPT 25 DECEMBER AND 1 JANUARY, RIJKSMUSEUM TEEKENSCHOOL

21 DEC/11 & 25 JAN/8 FEB, ANTON PANNEKOEK INSTITUTE FOR ASTRONOMY

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CANDY CASTLE On a chilly day when the indoors beckons, Candy Castle has delights aplenty to captivate rambunctious tots. There are different playgrounds for the various age groups and each is designed to facilitate a specific area of child development, including balance and motor skills. OPEN DAILY, CANDY CASTLE

Rachmaninoff Pianoconcert

Sat 15, Sun 16 September Royal Concertgebouw www.orkest.nl

‘This year we're looking forward to Amsterdam’s Santa Tram. After the exciteINSIDER TIP ment of the November Intocht which sees Sinterklaas arrive in the city, the other red-suited big guy hops aboard Amsterdam’s magical vintage tram for a oneday extravaganza in early December. With face-painting, festive drinks and family photos to treasure, this “tramtastic” treat books up quickly, so get your Christmas skates on and join us!’ Tracy Abraham (47), blogger at Amsterdam Wonderland

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City Guide

54 60 61 62 63

Oost Zuid West Centre Noord

Explore Amsterdam’s neighbourhoods

Tropenmuseum

Housed in an impressive listed building overlooking Amsterdam’s Oosterpark, the Tropenmuseum is all about people and cultures. The extensive permanent display and regularly changing exhibitions feature objects that all have a story to tell about universal human themes, like mourning, celebration, prayer and conflict. Catch a glimpse of the past, present and future of non-Western cultures. LINNAEUSSTRAAT 2, TROPENMUSEUM.NL

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Oost

54 | text: TEXT: Karin MARIE-CHARLOTTE Engelbrecht PEZÉ

Dappermarkt

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Museum Perron Oost is the smallest museum in the world. CRUQUIUSWEG 11 MUSEUMPERRONOOST.NL

Melting Pot The embodiment of Amsterdam’s multicultural fame, Oost bangs to the beat of its own drum.

Expanding the city

For all its modernity, this newish neighbourhood with a funky skyline (check out The Whale on Borneo Island, or the IJ Tower on KNSM Island) is actually laden with history: it was created at the end of the 19th century, when the ships grew too big for Amsterdam’s harbour. The Dutch jumped at the chance to build new land over water (their favourite pastime), and spent the next couple of decades creating new islands, which are today growing into prized real estate, especially as they sport incredible views over the water. At Oost’s southern end, the Amstelkwartier is the new prized prey of Amsterdam’s

developers who are enthusiastically following the city’s new directions in urban planning, intelligently cementing eco-consciousness with liveability.

ost (East) is the epitome of Amsterdam’s incredible diversity; and not only in population, but also in its huge variety of architecture – from the 19thcentury residential areas of Oud-Oost (old-East) and the Amsterdam School treasures hiding behind Oosterpark, to the awe-inspiring feats of modernity on the Eastern Docklands.

Cultural diversity

As Oost grows in size and popularity, it’s also breeding more and more diverse and lively cultural offerings: it is home to the Tropenmuseum, one of Europe’s leading anthropological museums, but also the Muziekgebouw aan ’t IJ, the temple of modern classical and jazz music. It thrives on its multi-disciplinary venues, such as sustainability nerve centre and multi-arts centre Pakhuis de Zwijger, mecca of storytelling Mezrab, and the Lloyd Hotel and Cultural Embassy, which marries quirky guest rooms with independent artist exhibits or cultural festivals. At its heart also beats the 175-acre Science Park Amsterdam, the largest European hub for science, research and entrepreneurship – bringing brains to the brawny

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‘It’s so nice to be surrounded by water, especially when SAIL Amsterdam comes around every five years and we get front-row views of the ships.’ Dick Voet (44) and Behroez Moosavi (30), co-workers from the local government

Oost

56 | CULTURAL MELTING POT

Amstelkwartier

Amsterdam’s latest policy of reinvigorating its older neglected neighbourhoods is paying off in this southernmost area of Oost that lies at the curve of the Amstel River. Betting on its existing assets – the historical buildings of the Zuidergasfabriek, the gorgeous views over the river and lots of green areas – developers are busy redesigning the entire area along the city’s vision of marrying sustainability with liveability. Spacious lofts and apartments are being built, but also mansions and pleasant social housing, making space for everyone and honouring the district’s multicultural personality. It’s attracting new venues such as restaurant Persijn and Cafe de Omval, but also sees great community enterprises thrive, such as the Amstelglorie gardens.

Dapperbuurt

The life of this multicultural neighbourhood is centred around the Dappermarkt, a daily open-air market where 200+ stalls are laden with colourful textile patterns, exotic fruits and vats of ﬂowers. It is one of the prime spots to hear snippets of the many languages spoken on the streets of Amsterdam. The Dapperbuurt’s popularity has risen with the younger, hipster crowds in the past few years, so expect to ﬁnd as many nostalgic barber shops and laundromats as trendy bars and eateries. A bustling village edged by the vast green expanse of the recently rehabbed Oosterpark and the Tropenmuseum – which makes anthropology fun with exhibitions such as the current Cool Japan.

beauty of the area.

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‘I love the Dappermarkt so much, I make a stop here every day on my way back from work. I always find what I need, from food to books and fabrics.’ Astrid Souprayen (44), works at a kindergarten

A culinary adventure

Last but not least, Oost is constantly sprouting new trendy cafés, bars,

For more information on Amsterdam Oost, check out the Neighbourhood Guide on our website: iamsterdam.com/ neighbourhoods

Michel-Inn

Poesiat & Kater

STEVE BIKOPLEIN 12 MICHEL-INN.NL

POLDERWEG 648 POESIATENKATER.NL

If you have a weakness for thin-crust wood-oven pizza with fresh and authentic toppings, then Michel-Inn is your place. If you don’t, the convivial neighbourhood restaurant with a sprawling street terrace also offers platitos: small and surprising dishes, with assortments of meats, cheeses, fish or vegetables – to share with a group of friends or greedily enjoy by yourself (we won’t judge).

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Poes and Kater mean female and male cat in Dutch, which is fitting for this new brewpub located in an old animal shelter sporting high ceilings, wide windows, and a welcoming fireplace. In addition to their home-brewed Poesiat & Kater beers, there’s a vast snack menu. Their brunch, lunch and dinner menus are also worth tasting, so come thirsty AND hungry.

CoNsCiOuS ShOpPiNg RoUtE

Conscious Shopping

Make a first pit stop at Dignita Hoftuin (1), a quaint garden café and social initiative, or at Beter & Leuk (2) for their stellar cakes, then grab some pickled seasonal vegetables from Thull’s (3). Indulge in a shopping spree at 50/50 Reshare (4) for high-quality second-hand clothes, Waar (5) for sustainabile gifts, Neverland Toys (6) for the kids, or Het Faire Oosten (7) – a guilt-free shopping paradise. End the tour with a well-deserved coffee or meal at Instock (8), which ‘rescues’ 2,000 kg of food every week that would otherwise have been wasted.

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Follow Amsterdam’s green consciousness with our map (see above): hop on a bike and head down Weesperstraat to discover the best of Oost’s sustainable businesses.

The Breakfast Club

The road to a good Amsterdam brunch has been long and arduous, but in recent years the city has finally seen a few excellent brunch menus pop-up, especially in Oost. Bar Botanique, Louie Louie and Dignita have largely contributed to cementing the imported tradition, but The Breakfast Club takes it one step further by offering its huevos rancheros, fried eggs and sausage, or buttermilk pancakes from 8 am till 6 pm. WIBAUTSTRAAT 56 THEBREAKFASTCLUB.NL

Oost

58 | CULTURAL MELTING POT restaurants, and alternative party venues. It’s following the local movement of micro-breweries with Poesiat & Kater and a new branch of super-popular Troost, and people in the know ﬂock to Bar Botanique, Bar Bukowski or Louie Louie. For a more reﬁned drinking option, there is also Alex + Pinard wine bar, which doesn’t take itself too seriously but serves an excellent bottle and meal to boot.

Amstel, a culinary and artistic adventure housed in a historic building, or Persijn, one of the pioneers of modern Dutch cuisine that serves fare grown in the aquaponics greenhouse of its roof terrace.

The multitude of exceptional dining options range from surprising holes in the wall and innocuous eateries blessed with exotic ﬂair (Boi Boi’s fantastic Thai kitchen merits a detour), to some of Amsterdam’s most iconic tables: Merkelbach, Rijsel and Wilde Zwijnen all embody how far Dutch cuisine has come in the past few years. Since the beginning of its rehabilitation, the Amstelkwartier has seen the doors open on a plethora of new-generation venues, such as Thuis aan de

Oost was always the face of Amsterdam’s multicultural spirit, where colourful turbans, kaftans and hijabs mingled on busy streets sprawling with colourful fabrics, flowers and produce. But in recent years, as its population has increased and diversified, as its neglected neighbourhoods are being rebuilt and beautified, the entire district has gotten a masterful facelift that’s lost none of its charm.

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For more information on Amsterdam Oost, check out the Neighbourhood Guide on our website: iamsterdam.com/ neighbourhoods

‘I’m a big fan of the Transvaalbuurt . Take a stroll along the Ringvaart canal, browse the wonderful restaurants and shops of Pretoriusstraat, or admire the Amsterdam School architecture.’

Wilde Zwijnen

Van Velze’s Chocolaterie

JAVAPLEIN 23 WILDEZWIJNEN.COM

EERSTE OOSTERPARKSTRAAT 7 VANVELZES.EU

The fare at this restaurant in Indische Buurt shows off what new Dutch cuisine is all about: refinement and creativity with local, seasonal ingredients. Choose between three- and four-course meal options or a tasting menu of smaller dishes. Dappermarkt

Vicky Hampton (38), writer

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It’s hidden on a side street by the Amstel River, but this little shop of sweet wonders is worth seeking out. Specialised in chocolate confections made from sustainable Grand Cru Chocolate, Van Velzen’s assortment runs from a creamy Bourbon vanilla to more daring flavours like sweet chilli and Balsamic vinegar or, for the truly adventurous, red wine, bay leaf and liquorice. Perfect for a Valentine’s Day treat.

Hey Amsterdam, /whats-on The ultimate guide to discover whatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s on in Amsterdam.

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foto Iwan Baan

Visit these and many other museums for free with the I amsterdam City Card iamsterdam.com/citycard

Noord

EYE Filmmuseum

foto Rob van Esch

Zelfportret met grijze vilthoed, 1887, Van Gogh Museum, Amsterdam (Vincent van Gogh Stichting)

foto DigiDaan

Discover Amsterdam from across the water

Plantage

Oud-Zuid

Oost

Hands-on experiments for inquisitive minds

Meet Vincent van Gogh

Meet the cultures of the world

Science Center Nemo

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Van Gogh Museum

Tropenmuseum

01-08-18 16:19

Zuid

For more information on Amsterdam Zuid, check out the Neighbourhood Guide on our website: iamsterdam.com/ neighbourhoods

60 | CLASSY MEETS CULTURAL

The repository of the city’s classical culture and luxury shopping.

The Golden Child

he crown jewel of Zuid (South) is the Museumplein, where the Rijksmuseum presides, flaunting 800 years of Dutch art and history. It’s also home to the Van Gogh Museum, Stedelijk Museum and Museum of Contemporary Art (MOCO); and right across the street, the Royal Concertgebouw. Just off Museumplein lies Oud-Zuid (Old South), a posh neighbourhood with such a privileged flair that the locals have nicknamed it ‘the reservation’. Luxury designer shopping is Oud-Zuid’s main sex appeal, from flashy P.C. Hooftstraat to classy Willemsparkweg. Zuid also has its own Latin Quarter, De Pijp, where trendy cafés and edgy shops abound.

‘I’ve lived in Zuidas for 15 years and I love it; it’s a very convenient neighbourhood , you can shop for many hard-tofind Asian products in grocery stores such as Shilla or Dank.’ Kyunghee Lee (51), hairdresser

At this meat-lover’s paradise, salivate while watching the butchers cut through huge slabs of cow before they're sent up to the grill. The no-reservation communal tables on the brasserie floor are convivial but for a more formal dining experience, the first floor’s Rotisserie sports airy windows and a menu of grilled specialties.

Moco Museum

EUROPAPLEIN 2, THEROASTROOM.NL

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The Roast Room

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This museum for modern and contemporary art gracing Museumplein since 2016 shares its unprecedented collection of original Banksy artwork. The permanent exhibit features 90 paintings by the secretive street artist whose activism has resonated (and adorned façades) worldwide. Until 15 January, the museum is also hosting a special exhibition by Icy & Sot, often dubbed the Banksy of Iran. HONTHORSTSTRAAT 20 MOCOMUSEUM.COM

For more information on Amsterdam West, check out the Neighbourhood Guide on our website: iamsterdam.com/ neighbourhoods

HIPSTER HEAVEN

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A traditionally residential West now thrives on its multicultural and independent ﬂair.

‘We really enjoy hanging out in Oud-West. It’s been developing a lot with loads of cool new restaurants and shops, while retaining its genuine variety of cultures.’ Max van Klink (22) and Imo Noordman (21), hospitality students

Café Restaurant Amsterdam

This beloved factory-sized café used to be the engine room of the pumping station for the water that came to Amsterdam from the North Sea. The station was renovated in the 1980s, and the result is a monumental dining room with airy high ceilings. The menu is worthy of the best Parisian bistros with rillettes, steak tartare, cassoulet and a great selection of fresh seafood. WATERTORENPLEIN 6, CAFERESTAURANTAMSTERDAM.NL

Rebirth

riginally a residential area for working-class families, West is a prime example of how much Amsterdam has revitalised its neighbourhoods outside of the Canal Ring. Fifteen years ago, the old gas factories in peaceful Westerpark were rehabbed and transformed. Today, the Westergasfabriek is one of the city’s cultural powerhouses overflowing with entertainment venues, pop-up shops, and hip cafés and eateries. In the same vein, tranquil Oud-West (Old West) has come out of its residential snooze with the development of De Hallen Quarter, home to the gourmet Foodhallen, indie cultural venues, and vintage or designer shops. As the area’s popularity redefines the limits of what feels like the city’s centre, the tentacles of this rebirth continue to spread outwards. BoLo and De Baarsjes harbour marvels of Amsterdam School architecture, and even the forgotten Nieuw-West (New West) – where the charm of Amsterdam’s centre fades into blocks of row-housing development – cultivates its multicultural heritage with a renewed social soul and worldly flair.

West

Kesbeke

Kesbeke is the one-and-only pickler of truly authentic Amsterdam pickles. You won’t find better gherkins, pickled onions or piccalilli anywhere else in the city. If perfectly sour crunchiness isn’t incentive enough, Kesbeke is involved with many charities, from cancer research to war-zone children, so your purchase is also good for the soul. ADOLF VAN NASSAUSTRAAT 2-8, KESBEKE.NL

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Centre 62 | FULL OF CONTRASTS

The centre of Amsterdam is a love story between the city’s historical culture and its innovative, avant-garde spirit.

The Red Carpet

ts cosmopolitan-yet-quaint village feel defines Amsterdam Centre’s personality: it’s all about contrasts. The Red Light District itself is one big dichotomy, with a 12th-century church and romantic bridges as the backdrop for tawdry windows displaying intimate body parts – real or rubber. All the hubbub makes it hard to differentiate the tourist traps from the genuine, but the latter is there if you look a little closer. Gone are the souvenir shops as soon as you cross the Singel to the Nine Streets, where Dutch fashion designers show off their innovative skills. A few steps further and the flowery Jordaan welcomes you to Amsterdam’s real life, with its bustling markets and lively cafés. And if you head east instead of west, past the flea market on Waterlooplein (where you’ll find vintage treasures as well as cheap souvenirs), you’ll step into the deceptively peaceful Plantage, home not only to the famous ARTIS Royal Zoo and the enchanting Hortus Botanicus botanical gardens, but also a thrumming cultural life including the Jewish Cultural Quarter, the Hermitage Amsterdam Museum, Royal Theatre Carré, the Kriterion cinema – and a slew of exceptional bars and restaurants.

Amsterdam’s own byzantine bazaar, this 1,750 square-metre treasure trove of antiques, art and jewellery holds everything from porcelain dogs to rare Art Deco pieces at more refined shops like Arditi Art. While it's the perfect stop for Christmas shopping, getting lost in the maze of aisles overflowing with curiosa is also a lovely way to spend a rainy Sunday afternoon.

Antiek Centrum

ELANDSGRACHT 109 ANTIEKCENTRUMAMSTERDAM.NL

This staple neighbourhood café is the perfect mix of natty and laidback. The waiting staff is as friendly as the menu is fresh and original: the chef enjoys marrying the traditional with the unexpected, adding apricot to his tabbouleh or chorizo to his potato gratin. Every dish is a delight, from breakfast to dinner, and even the borrel menu, with its more international fare, stands out in a sea of bitterballen. HAARLEMMERSTRAAT 73, RESTAURANTSTOUT.NL

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‘The Haarlemmerbuurt is child-friendly; the backstreets are quiet, open and clean, and my son loves the Herenmarkt playground.’ Delphine van den Brink (36), manager

For more information on Amsterdam Noord, check out the Neighbourhood Guide on our website: iamsterdam.com/ neighbourhoods

Noord

THE BOHEMIAN REBEL

Neef Louis

Lovers of vintage design will be lured in by Neef Louis’ eclectic collection of retro furniture, industrial lamps, Dutch Design icons and mid-century treasures. Try not to get lost in the warehouse-sized shop floor while browsing for interior objects and inspiration, and remember they’ll deliver (to most countries in the world) when you inevitably buy more than will fit on the ferry back. PAPAVERWEG 46-48 NEEFLOUIS.NL

Skate Café

The Other Side

quick ferry-ride across the River IJ and Amsterdam’s harbour, Noord was strategic during the Golden Age of Dutch trade, and later became a substantial industrial district. Today it’s grown into the much-revered bastion of Amsterdam’s alternative culture, having refurbished many old shipping warehouses to host trendy eateries like Stork and Hotel de Goudfazant, cultural venues such as Tolhuistuin, exhibition and performance spaces, artist studios – or all of these at once such as Café de Ceuvel. From there, the district spreads all the way to quaint villages such as Uitdam or Broek in Waterland, crossing a ﬂurry of beautiful parks, village-like suburbia and wide swathes of nature. But don’t let that tranquillity fool you: Noord is full of surprises, like the rebellious NDSM Wharf, further west along the IJ River. Two decades ago, art pioneer Eva de Klerk spied the potential of NDSM and created Kunststad (Art City), a breeding ground for creatives who launched the area’s reputation as the unruly nerve centre of Amsterdam’s indie art scene.

The new favourite of all the boys and girls in the know has an indoor skating rink – especially practical on long winter days for the real skateboard aficionados out there. It’s also got atmosphere, great tunes, Barbie-pink chairs, and a delicious menu that won’t cost you the leg you need to do those kick-flips: from tacos to curries through chicken noodle soup and Peking duck pancakes. GEDEMPT HAMERKANAAL 42 SKATECAFE.NL

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‘Noord is the real, hidden heart of Amsterdam.’ Christopher Davies (73), singer and writer

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With its creative post-industrial vibe and vast green expanses, Noord is a jolt out of classic Amsterdam.

TRAVEL WITH THE

AMSTERDAM & REGION TRAVEL TICKET

by bus, tram, metro & train

€18.50

€26.00

€33.50

Day Trips Discover the Amsterdam area Zaanse Schans

The iconic windmills of Zaanse Schans are unmissable at any time of year. But in winter, when there are fewer tourists, itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s the perfect opportunity to explore at your own pace. Get there in just 30 minutes by public transport from Amsterdam Central Station.

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Old Holland Haarlem New Land Castles & Gardens Beaches Map of the region Beyond Amsterdam The Hague

Old Holland

66 | TEXT: VICKY HAMPTON

Ye Olde Dutch Winter The traditional Dutch villages north of Amsterdam – including Zaanse Schans, Purmerend and Beemster – are beautifully preserved. The magical, wintry atmosphere is the perfect excuse to visit.

ith its countless windmills, churches and old-fashioned farmhouses, stepping out into Old Holland can feel like being in a Golden Age painting. Old Holland towns such as Volendam, Zaandam and Alkmaar hark back to times of more honest crafts, showcasing the traditional skills the region was famous for: shipbuilding, fishing and cheese making. Alongside such classic industries, you can also experience the heritage of the industrial revolution – a time when smoking chimney stacks and spinning sails enabled the mass production of chocolate and biscuits. Not to mention the iconic windmills at Zaanse Schans and the famous cheese from the village of Edam. And all this within 30 minutes of Amsterdam Central Station by public transport. This winter is the perfect time to visit Old Holland: from the midwinter festivals in Purmerend and De Rijp, to a cosy boat tour and a tasty chocolate experience in Zaanse Schans, to Monet’s stunning portfolio of paintings while he lived in Zaandam… the area offers a wealth of history, culture and fun for all the family.

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2 CLASS

18 12-20 with until 31- t required Valid ou ery trip in and Check rrier on ev each ca

AYM 1STD ERDA N

IO & REG EL TRAV T TICKE

Want to discover the Amsterdam area? Visit 9292.nl/en to plan your trip, and buy your Amsterdam & Region Travel Ticket – valid on all public transport in the region.

How to spend a day in Old Holland Hop on the Zaanferry from Amsterdam Central Station (pier 14, near the ferries) to Zaandam – check zaanferry. com for the schedule.

In wintry weather, discover the Zaan region indoors through Monet’s paintings of the area by visiting the MonetAtelier and Zaans Museum.

After your delicious DIY hot chocolate from the museum, head back to Zaandam city centre for some last-minute gift shopping.

Return to Amsterdam by train from Zaandam station or by bus (391) from Zaanse Schans (included in the Amsterdam & Region Travel Ticket).

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Old Holland

68 | TRUE DUTCH HERITAGE

Zaanse Schans

Just north of Amsterdam, Zaanse Schans is a stunning living and working community dating back to 1850, where you can see first-hand how Dutch people lived and worked by visiting the windmills, crafts store, museums and houses. Discover the village at your own pace with a personal guided tour via the Zaanse Schans app. If it’s too cold outside, visit one of the windmills to see the moving parts inside the belly of the building and hear the wood creak – and take a seat to warm up with a cup of hot chocolate and rum. Or go for the comfort and warmth of a 50-minute boat tour along the Zaanse Schans to enjoy a breath-taking view of the Zaanse skyline, which features the impressive windmills. DEZAANSESCHANS.NL

before the Industrial Revolution would irrevocably change the characteristic landscape of the area. The MonetAtelier includes replicas of Monet’s 25 Zaandam paintings. A number of these were made by famous Zaandam painters. It offers a unique view on the work of Monet as well as an impression of Zaandam in 1871. The MonetAtelier is located in the recently built ‘Luchthuis aan de Zaan’, which has made it possible to turn one of Monet’s paintings into real life.

MonetAtelier

‘Zaandam is particularly remarkable and there is enough to paint here for a lifetime. Houses in all colours, hundreds of windmills and delightful boats,’ Claude Monet wrote to his friend and fellow painter Pissarro after arriving in Zaandam on 2 June 1871. Captivated by these motifs, his stay would ultimately last four months. Monet made 24 landscape paintings and one portrait during this period. He was just in time to capture the old Zaandam, dotted with windmills,

MONETINZAANDAM.NL

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Refrigerator magnets Zaans Huisjes (€1.95, hollandwinkel.nl)

Monnickendam

The beautiful harbour town of Monnickendam is home to dozens of monumental buildings. In the 17th century – the Dutch Golden Age – shipyards and smokehouses were established in Monnickendam; even now, the historic buildings and street names are reminiscent of its industrious past, when trades and crafts flourished.

Verkade chocolate experience

Mid-winter Festival, De Rijp

Take a fascinating journey from the very first windmills and green wooden houses to modern factories, and admire traditional Dutch paintings, costumes and artefacts – all at the Zaans Museum in Zaanse Schans. At the heart of the museum is the Verkade Experience, a chocolate and biscuit factory. A treat for young and old alike, the Verkade Experience takes you back to the early 20th century, where the original machines are still churning away. Want to get involved? Design your own wrapper for a customised Verkade chocolate bar, or join in the games and pretend to be a chocolate expert.

On the weekend of 14-16 December, the historic village of De Rijp turns into a fairy-tale winter wonderland. Easily reached via bus from Amsterdam Central Station today, in the 17th century this village made a name for itself due to its fishing (for herring) and whaling industries. At De Rijp’s annual mid-winter festival, you can expect music and dance performances, plays, and of course a typical Christmas market. MIDWINTERFEEST-GRAFTDERIJP.NL

ZAANSMUSEUM.NL

Winter in Purmerend From 8 December to 6 January, Purmerend’s old town is transformed into ‘Winters Purmerend’ – a festive event organised for the first time in this historic town. For the entire period, visitors can skate on a large open-air ice rink on the Koemarkt – the ice rink is also used for disco skating, curling, figure skating, and long- and short-track skating. On Saturday 8 December, don’t miss the illumination of the Christmas tree lights. On the weekend of 1416 December, you can stroll through the chalets and stalls of the Christmas market. And on 21-23 December, a special culinary weekend awaits: restaurants, caterers and delicatessens from the area showcase their products so that visitors can enjoy tasty snacks, dishes and winter beers. WINTERSPURMEREND.NL

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Haarlem

70 | AMSTERDAM'S CLOSEST NEIGHBOUR

Find out more about day trips to Haarlem on: iamsterdam.com/ daytrips

City of Culture Amsterdam’s closest neighbour, Haarlem, is known not only for its dining and shopping options, but also for its culture. Don’t miss the city’s one-of-a-kind exhibitions at top museums.

Frans Hals and the Moderns

The revamped Frans Hals Museum in Haarlem (free with the I amsterdam City Card) is staging a blockbuster exhibition until 24 February 2019: Frans Hals and the Moderns. With around 50 loans from museums all over the world, the exhibition reflects the huge impact Hals had on 19th-century painters like Manet, Liebermann, Singer Sargent and Van Gogh. For the first time, his paintings will be set against responses to his work by artists painting in the Modernist era, revealing just how progressive Frans Hals was. The atmosphere of the exhibition can be summed up by its tagline: ‘Frans Hals, c’est un moderne’.

FRANSHALSMUSEUM.NL

Da Vinci at the Teylers Museum

In 2019, it’s exactly 500 years since the death of Leonardo da Vinci. So until 6 January 2019, Teylers Museum in Haarlem is ushering in a worldwide Da Vinci year with exhibitions and other activities to mark this important anniversary. With loans from cities including London, Paris, Budapest and Florence, the museum is organising an impressive exhibition with works by the great Italian master, the vast majority of which have never before been seen in the Netherlands. The museum will exhibit over 30 original drawings, with the focus on the human emotions expressed in the artist’s work. TEYLERSMUSEUM.NL

Toneelschuur’s golden jubilee

To celebrate the Toneelschuur’s 50th anniversary, the theatre is organising a special programme of events until May 2019. These include activities that allow you to get to know theatre makers, learn how to watch a play, or get started working on a theatre script or choreography yourself. There will also be jubilee performances to come and enjoy. TONEELSCHUUR.NL/JUBILEUM

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New Land

2 CLASS

8 -12-201 ired with until 31 qu Valid out re y trip er in and Check rrier on ev each ca

TAMING THE OCEAN

AYM 1TD ERDA

AMS REGION & EL TRAV T TICKE

Want to discover the Amsterdam area? Visit 9292.nl/en to plan your trip, and buy your Amsterdam & Region Travel Ticket – valid on all public transport in the region.

For centuries, the Dutch have got creative with water – reclaiming large areas of land from the sea. The result? The ‘new land’ that makes up the province of Flevoland.

Batavia Quarter, Lelystad

It's the combination of nature and an urban environment that makes the Batavia Quarter unique. Combine a visit to museum and shipyard Batavialand, which tells the story of the Dutch population’s battle with water, with the enchanting Christmas fair on 15 and 16 December. Visit neighbouring attraction Batavia Stad Amsterdam Fashion Outlet with more than 150 shops – don’t forget to catch the winter sales for great discounts! Just a stone’s throw away you’ll find several restaurants and cafés to end your day with dinner and drinks. BATAVIALAND.NL

Space Waste Lab, Almere

Until 19 January 2019, Kunstlinie Almere Flevoland (KAF) is hosting the world premiere of Space Waste Lab by artist and innovator Daan Roosegaarde. By means of a live performance, with vertical lines of light up to a height of between 200 and 2,000 kilometres, this spectacular outdoor installation connects the Earth with the space debris above us. The light performance visualises 1% of real-time rotating space waste, and can be observed after sunset on selected weekends at the Esplanade in Almere. KAF.NL

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Nature Park, Lelystad

Visit Nature Park Lelystad and discover a whole host of wild animal species in their natural environment. Nature Park Lelystad is most beautiful during winter time, especially in the snow when it’s a truly magical experience. You might encounter a group of red deer during a walk through the park, or find yourself face to face with a moose. Relax in the afterglow of a great day by enjoying a cup of coffee or hot chocolate in the restaurant near the entrance. VISITFLEVOLAND.NL/EN/NATUURPARK

Castles & Gardens 72 | AMSTELVEEN WINTER VILLAGE

Dancing on Ice Whether the canals freeze this winter or not, ice skating is one of the Netherlands’ favourite national sports. And at Winter Village (in Amstelveen as well as six other locations in the Netherlands), you can get your skates on too!

Find out more about day trips to Castles & Gardens on: iamsterdam.com/ daytrips

fun facts • Winter Village’s first location opened in November and its last location closes in mid-February. • Amstelveen Winter Village is open from 7 December to 6 January. • Annually, 250,000 people visit the Winter Village concept, spread over six locations. • The open-air ice rinks have a surface area of around 600 square metres. • Winter Village also organises customised events and group activities.

Restaurants and bars

❄

Winter is coming

At the first hint of frost, the Dutch enter a state of ice frenzy and start dusting off their ice skates. Children and experienced skaters alike take to the ice – whether natural or man-made. Winter Village is a unique outdoor event in the Netherlands that is widely known for its high-quality ice rinks, cosy atmosphere, fun sports activities, and excellent restaurant and bar. None of the ice rinks are indoor – after all, ice skating belongs in the open air!

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Winter Village is the perfect place to enjoy a wintry cheese fondue or a typical Dutch dish and a glass of wine, together with family, friends or business partners. And for the kids, there are tasty pancakes too. Each location has a cosy restaurant that is available for both lunch and dinner (seating around 100 guests), but it’s also a good location for networking drinks or other business events (accommodating around 300 guests standing). Each restaurant has its own large but intimate furnished terrace with an outdoor bar for informal meetings. WINTERVILLAGEAMSTELVEEN.NL

Beaches

LET’S GET SANDY

Winter Sun Although winter might not be the obvious time to hit the beach, there’s nothing like a bracing walk by the sea to blow away the cobwebs. Or even, if you’re feeling brave, a winter swim!

Beach restaurants

Along the Zandvoort aan Zee coastline, there are five beach restaurants open throughout the winter. Great spots to stop for lunch or to warm up with a cup of coffee! Try Tijn Akersloot for a beach-club atmosphere, Club Nautique for modern Mediterranean food, Beachclub No5 for a hearty steak dinner, Thalassa for excellent fish and seafood (voted best beach pavilion in the Netherlands in 2018!), or atmospheric De Haven van Zandvoort. TIJNAKERSLOOT.NL | CLUBNAUTIQUE.NL | BEACHCLUB5.NL | THALASSA18.NL | DEHAVENVANZANDVOORT.NL

High tea after a duneforest walk The Duin & Kruidberg Country Estate offers plenty to discover and enjoy – from the classic country house and English estate garden to the exceptional natural beauty of the dunes at National Park Zuid-Kennemerland. And until 16 December, you’re invited to take a 1.5-hour walk through the estate’s forest – enjoy the varied landscape and listen to the forest ranger’s stories about nature, history and culture along the way. At the end, reward yourself with high tea in the manor house at Brasserie DenK.

New Year’s Swim

On 1 January at 2 pm sharp outside Beachclub No5 in Zandvoort aan Zee, join a group of brave swimmers taking their first dip of the year. Every year, thousands of people from Amsterdam and the surrounding area meet to see the New Year in, North Sea-style. After the swim, reward yourself with a steaming mug of hot chocolate with whipped cream from one of the beach pavilions. The 2019 swim is a special edition, marking 60 years since the start of this refreshing tradition – now the oldest of its kind in the Netherlands. VVVZANDVOORT.COM/NEW-YEARS-SWIM

DUIN-KRUIDBERG.NL

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Map of the Region 74 | ILLUSTRATION: MONIQUE WIJBRANDS

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Beyond Amsterdam 76 | YOUR WINTER AGENDA

Further Afield From Christmas markets to international film festivals, winter is an ideal time to venture further afield in the Netherlands. Take advantage of the fact that there are fewer tourists visiting, and feel like a local Nederlander!

Ð Ð

The Red Turtle, co-written and directed by Dutch animator Michaël Dudok de Wit

Taking place from 23 January until 3 February, the International Film Festival Rotterdam (IFFR) offers a high-quality line-up of carefully selected fiction and documentary feature films, shorts and media art. The festival’s focus is on recent work by talented new filmmakers, but there are also retrospectives and themed programmes. IFFR is one of the largest audience- and industry-driven film festivals in the world. During the 12 days of the festival, hundreds of filmmakers and other artists present their work to a large audience (over 320,000 people in 2018). The festival’s official selection includes more than 500 feature, midlength and short films from over 50 countries. Unmissable for movie buffs! 23 JANUARY–3 FEBRUARY, IFFR.COM

International Film Festival Rotterdam

Magical Maastricht

Cool Event, Scheveningen Enjoy some winter fun at Cool Event in Scheveningen, where you can skate, sled and admire the incredible ice sculptures that pop up along the beach.

UNTIL 20 JANUARY, COOLEVENTSCHEVENINGEN.NL

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Magical Maastricht on Vrijthof square – the southern city’s famous annual Christmas market – is a place to come together and celebrate winter for the entire month of December. Enjoy a ride on the huge Ferris wheel, visit the Alpine-inspired chalet (Almhütte), skate on a 900-square metre sheltered ice rink, and warm up with hot chocolate, local pastries and other tempting goodies from the region. Pop by Santa’s Grotto for a cosy get-together next to a crackling fire. 1–31 DECEMBER. VISITMAASTRICHT.COM/ MAGICAL-MAASTRICHT

The Hague ADVERTORIAL

Amazing Shop Windows

During the TINK winter event, The Hague’s business owners will battle it out for the title of most amazing shop window. Walk the route past 60 spectacular winter window displays: shop, eat, drink, enjoy and win beautiful prizes. 8–25 DECEMBER, TINKTHEHAGUE.COM

Enjoy a Royal Winter in The Hague Christmas really sparkles in The Hague. The winter is a wonderful season to spend in the Netherlands’ ‘royal’ city by the sea. We show you the best spots for shopping, Christmas markets, outdoor ice skating, family-friendly theatre performances, carol concerts and other fun winter events.

Scheveningen – winter by the sea

The Hague’s very own beach town, Scheveningen serves as the backdrop for colourful firework displays during the winter months, as well as a range of fun activities for young and old. In front of the famous Amrâth Kurhaus Hotel is the beautiful 600 square-metre covered ice skating rink, open daily from 10 am till 10 pm. A two-minute walk from the ice skating rink through the Palace Promenade shopping centre will bring you to the 30-metre long ‘Palace Fun Slide’ on the boulevard, where you can hop on an inflatable tyre to soar down the ice slide. Tickets are available separately or in combination with the ice rink. The perfect excuse for a refreshing day out beside the sea! DENHAAG.COM/EN/WINTER

Royal Christmas Fair

The Royal Christmas Fair in The Hague is one of the biggest Christmas markets in the Netherlands. Twinkling lights and familiar Christmas carols at the romantic Lange Voorhout are bound to get you in the ultimate Christmas mood. Among this year’s 100 stalls, you’ll find wintry fashion, design decorations, Christmas lights, wood carvings, candles and all kinds of Christmas gift ideas. A mug of hot chocolate or glühwein is the perfect accompaniment. You can also enjoy a cultural programme of children’s choirs, theatre groups and storytellers. 14–23 DECEMBER, DENHAAG.COM/EN/WINTER

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Need to Know

I amsterdam Visitor Centres are your one-stop shop for everything you need to know about the city. Last-Minute Ticket Shop

Make the most of discounted theatre tickets on the day of a performance. The pick of the day can be a choice of theatre, ballet, opera, concerts or international comedy. Check the Last-Minute Ticket Shop after 10 am, and buy tickets at lastminuteticketshop.nl.

I AMSTERDAM STORE With a hand-picked selection of quality products from iconic Amsterdam brands, as well as daily tips and advice on the best events and must-see attractions in the city, the I amsterdam Store at Central Station is your key to unlocking the very best that Amsterdam has to offer. Open: Mon-Wed 8 am-7pm; Thu-Sat 8 am-8 pm; Sun 10 am-6 pm Iamsterdam.com/en/i-amsterdam-store

I AMSTERDAM VISITOR CENTRES For information and to book excursions, visit one of the I amsterdam Visitor Centres in Amsterdam: iamsterdam.com/visitorcentres

I AMSTERDAM VISITOR CENTRE STATIONSPLEIN Opposite the main entrance of Central Station. Open daily, check opening times on iamsterdam.com/visitorcentres

Amsterdam & Region Travel Ticket

Discover Amsterdam and the surrounding area with the Amsterdam & Region Travel Ticket â&#x20AC;&#x201C; a special public transport card valid on trains, metros, trams and buses operated by NS, GVB, Connexxion and EBS. The Amsterdam & Regional Travel Ticket is available for one, two or three calendar days, and is valid on any of the routes listed in the public transport guide to the Amsterdam region. Tickets can be purchased at the I amsterdam Visitor Centres and I amsterdam Store, as well as ticket counters of the participating public transport companies. CLASS 2

I AMSTERDAM VISITOR CENTRE SCHIPHOL AIRPORT Arrivals 2 at Schiphol Plaza. Open daily 7 am-10 pm

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2018 til 31-12with Valid un required and out Check in ier on every trip eachÂ carr

Y A D 1 AM D R E T S M

N & REGIO L TRAVE TICKET

USEFUL AMSTERDAM BLOGS Amsterdam is chock-full of bloggers, many of whom write in English. Here is just a small selection of some of the blogs we follow (plus our own!): I AMSTERDAM: blog.iamsterdam.com A sideways look at life in the city for visitors and locals.

Holiday Season

With several holidays falling in winter, many businesses and public buildings will be closed in Amsterdam and the Netherlands as a whole on certain dates:

STUFF DUTCH PEOPLE LIKE: stuffdutchpeoplelike.com A study of all things Orange.

• 5 December: Sinterklaas is not an official holiday but some businesses may be closed • 25 December: Christmas Day is an official public holiday nationwide • 26 December: Boxing Day (known as Tweede Kerstdag, or Second Christmas Day) is an official public holiday nationwide • 31 December: New Year’s Eve is not an official holiday but some businesses may be closed • 1 January: New Year’s Day is an official public holiday nationwide • 14 February: Valentine’s Day is not an official holiday but is celebrated

AMSTERDAM FOODIE: amsterdamfoodie.nl Restaurant reviews, culinary guides and foodie travels. AWESOME AMSTERDAM: awesomeamsterdam.com Personal tips and info on events, dining and culture. SPOTTED BY LOCALS: spottedbylocals.com/amsterdam Online city guide and app

Getting Around

Amsterdam is well equipped with a public transport network of trams, buses and the metro, operated by GVB (gvb.nl). Public transport tickets – known as OV cards – are obligatory on all forms of public transport. You can buy a card for one or more days from ticket offices at the main stations; single one-hour tickets are for sale on trams and buses. To plan your journeys once in Amsterdam, visit 9292.nl/en for up-tothe-minute information on all public transport routes in the city and beyond. Google Maps is also generally fairly reliable. Alternatively, hire a bike from one of the many bicycle rental stores throughout the city, and pedal like a local!

In Case of Emergency

If you are a victim of crime, report it to the police (politie.nl). In emergency situations or to report a crime in progress, call 112. For non-emergency situations requiring police assistance or to make an appointment to report a crime in person, call 0900-8844 (if using a mobile

phone with an international SIM card, dial +31 343 578 844). For medical emergencies, including telephone consultations and consultations on location, contact the hotel reception or call the tourist doctor on +31 (0)20 427 5011 (expatmc.net).

I AMSTERDAM MAGAZINE

Map of Amsterdam

80 | ILLUSTRATION: MONIQUE WIJBRANDS

I AMSTERDAM MAGAZINE

On the Way Out

82 | TEXT AND PHOTOS: MARIE-CHARLOTTE PEZÉ

‘I love the Zeedijk, it’s so colourful. All the shops and restaurants – a lot of delicious, authentic Chinese food.’ Mike de Jong (52), manager from Prague

‘We went to the Supper Club, and it’s well worth the expense. The food is delicious, of course, but the atmosphere especially is very particular.’ Adam Ebrey (27), works at Barclays Bank in London

‘You should stop at the famous Museum Van Loon. Beautifully decorated inside and an amazing garden – and you learn a lot about Amsterdam life during the Golden Age.’ Carlton Chung and his wife (33), banker from Malaysia

‘FoodHallen is the best place to get lunch, with so many different stalls offering various world foods. It’s convivial and every place we tried was delicious.’ Paul Jacquart (23) and Julien Spacer (27), from Bordeaux, work in marketing

‘We went to the Heineken Museum, and then on a whim we decided to also visit the Cocktail Museum from House of Bols. It was such an unexpected pleasant surprise. It’s a lot of fun, very cool, we highly recommend it!’ Ashleigh Gill and Lucy Hennessey (22), from the UK

editor-in-chief Bart van Oosterhout art director & basic design Yke Bartels, Saskia Franken, bureau-studio designer Martijn Blokland deputy editor Vicky Hampton proofreader Julia Gorodecky contributors Karin Engelbrecht, Marie-Charlotte Pezé, EdenFrost (Tamar Bosschaart, David Wills, Alison McGarry, Alex Hibbert, Merrit Gurley), SaltyStock (Monique Wijbrands) advertising partner@iamsterdam.com or 020-7026180 subscriptions magazine@iamsterdam.com didn’t receive your copy? klantenservice@aboland.nl publisher amsterdam marketing print Corelio Printing ISSN 2589-6717

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What’s on

Amsterdam Light Festival Cats, the musical Cinderella

Eat & shop Festive feasts Date-night dining Christmas shopping

Magazine | The Winter Issue 2018 / 2019

Start a new passion in Amsterdam Start Something Priceless Have a nice stay

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