A-mag – Amsterdam Magazine: Vol 3, No. 2 by amsterdam&partners

SIGHTS & SOUNDS ART & FASHION DANCING & DINING COMPLETE LISTINGS MAR & APR 2015

CITY ESCAPES From tra nquil du ne s to mon u men ta l for tre s se s: ex plore the myriad char m s of the A m sterda m Me tropolita n Area.

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AMSTERDAM MAGAZINE

VOL 3 N0 2 MAR & APR 2015

GET OUT OF HERE

CONTENTS P.04 WHAT’S NEW?

City confidential: exciting new Amsterdam initiatives, events and venues – including your Top 5 must-do things this issue.

P.08 UP CLOSE City escapes: get out of town to see the fascinating history – and future – of Holland writ large, in the Amsterdam Metropolitan Area.

P.15 ARTS & ENTERTAINMENT Matisse’s cut-outs take over the Stedelijk, plus a right royal celebration and our critics’ picks of the best exhibitions, concerts and events.

Neighbourhood watch: De Hallenkwartier; plus the hottest new shops, the tastiest food trends and our selection of the best restaurants and cafés.

P.62 CLOSING Get out of town with our excursion tips; once upon a time in Amsterdam; top tips from visitors on the way out; colophon.

Bart van Oosterhout editor-in-chief A-mag a-mag@iamsterdam.com

STAY IN TOUCH:

P.47 THE A-LIST Agendas at the ready: from clubbing to gallery hopping, The A-List is your one-stop, at-a-glance guide to the city’s very best music, theatre (language no problem!), sporting, family and gay & lesbian events and venues.

iamsterdam.com facebook.com/iamsterdam twitter.com/iamsterdam youtube.com/videoiamsterdam

WANT TO ADVERTISE? T: 020 702 6180 E: partner@iamsterdam.com

MARIE-CHARLOTTE PEZÉ

P.29 EAT, DRINK & CHIC

I remember the first time I took my bike out to the Amstel River at the Rembrandtpark, a small park in the southern part of the city. It’s a mere 1.5 kilometres from my house – not much further than the supermarket where I usually do my shopping. Only here, I was at the edge of town. If you keep going south from that point, over the dyke along the Amstel, you cycle past woodland, green pastures, the occasional windmill, slow boats sailing by and age-old estates. It was a shock to find out how rural it all was. Coming from a small farming town in Brabant where my dad was a veterinarian – and long before I ever went to places like Bangkok and Mexico City – Amsterdam used to represent The City for me. Big, brutal, noisy, fast, scary at times. Once, when a police officer wanted to fine me for driving the wrong way up a one-way street, I got away with saying, in a thick southern accent: ‘We don’t have one-way streets where I come from.’ What I’m saying is how much the Amsterdam hinterland has to offer, how easy and how worth your while it is to take your bike – or a train or bus – out of it. Take Haarlem, a gorgeous town with a medieval centre and impressive cathedral, the Frans Hals Museum with a firstclass collection of 17th-century paintings and the famous Teylers science and art museum dating back to 1784. The train to Haarlem leaves from the first platform at Central Station, takes no more than 15 minutes and costs a mere €4. From your hotel in Amsterdam it’s easier – and quicker – to visit the Frans Hals or Teylers Museum than the Anne Frank House, to name just one example. So read our comprehensive seven-page feature on city escapes from page 8 and get out of here.

mar & apr 2015

OPENING

What’s new? (in town)

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All the latest cultural news plus the fresh new initiatives, events and venues making Amsterdam the place to be.

‘TODAY I’M IN AMSTERDAM! AND TODAY #MYCITY MUSIC VIDEO DROPS, HOW PERFECT!!?? I LOVE MY CITIES.’ SOUTH AFRICAN ELECTRO-POP STAR TOYA DELAZY TWEETS THE UNBELIEVABLE TRUTH.

text Mark Smith

FLORAL TRIBUTE If early publicity shots are to be believed, cinemagoers should prepare themselves for a version of 17th-century Amsterdam that’s more Mulberry ad than molenpad, when Tulip Fever goes on general release later this year. In Tom Stoppard’s long-awaited adaptation of Deborah Moggach’s 1999 novel about an artist and his sitter in Golden-Age Holland, it’s none other than Prince Harry’s ex-girlfriend, Cressida Bonas (pictured), who plays the role of Mrs Steen, a young merchant’s wife, while the extravagantly-browed supermodel Cara Delevingne will play artists’ model Henrietta. The film was originally slated for 2004, when it was set to star Jude Law and Keira Knightley, but production was halted as a result of changes in tax legislation affecting filmmaking in the UK.

UNDERGROUND ART SCENE Take an artful detour to check out the exceptional design by the renowned graphic designer Irma Boom that covers the floor, walls and ceiling of the new 120-metre long pedestrian and bicycle tunnel under Amster. The dam Central Station striking, abstracted seafaring motif is inspired by a tile painted by 17th-century Old Master Cornelis Bouwmeester, which can be seen in the Rijksmuseum . (pictured)

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UPWARDLY MOBILE Carmen Felix’s housewarming last December was quite unusual. Chosen from 230 applicants to inhabit a distinctive prefab house-for-one on Amsterdam’s Zeeburgereiland , she opened her new home to the municipality’s Councillor for Spatial Planning to discuss the shortage of affordable homes for graduates. The Heijmans ONE project of which she is part represents a trial of starter homes that can be installed on vacant city-centre sites in under 24 hours. www.heijmans.nl

PURPLE PALACE An Amsterdam architecture firm has proposed a chain of striking erections based on what they call the ‘positive powers’ of amethyst, the vivid purple quartz used in jewellery manufacture. According to reports in the UK’s Daily Mail, NL Architects is planning a chain of luxury amethyst hotels, the first of which will be part of China’s Ocean Flower development. www.nlarchitects.nl

‘A MOUSE FOUND MY COOKIES AT THE OFFICE AND ATE THEM ALL... THE WONDERS OF LIVING IN A MICE INFESTED CITY :’( #AMSTERDAM.’

‘OH AMSTERDAM, YOU GIVE ME A THOUSAND REASONS TO LOVE YOU.’ TRAVEL BLOGGER KATRIN TOCHTERMANN HAS GOT IT BAD.

JUNIOR COMPANY, LOLLAPALOOZA © ANGELA STERLING

STYLESCRAPBOOK BLOGGER ANDY TORRES ON AN OCCUPATIONAL HAZARD.

I AM EXPAT FAIR 2015 The IamExpat Fair is a landmark event designed to support the expat community in the Netherlands, an exciting opportunity for internationals to find everything they need in one location, on one day. From companies and professionals in career, housing, education and expat services; to family, health and leisure, the IamExpat Fair will have it covered. Don’t miss the expat event of 2015! Get your free ticket via the website. 7 March Westergasfabriek www.iamexpatfair.nl

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TIME FLIES It’s nine months now since residents of the Nieuw-West district were treated to the sight of the disembodied cockpit of a Boeing aircraft making its way slowly across the city skyline. The reason? The newest addition to the neighbourhood’s hotel boom is the Corendon Vitality Hotel Amsterdam, whose ‘737 Cockpit Suite’ includes that ultimate in-room convenience: the 12-person-capacity flight simulator, fusing the Turkish company’s airline and hospitality elements.

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Aletta Jacobslaan 7 www.corendonhotels.com

I WANNA BE LIKE YOU A researcher from the University of Amsterdam, working alongside experts from America’s International Orangutan Center (yup, that’s a real place) has published research that may demonstrate that humans aren’t the only mammals capable of speech. Postdoctoral researcher Adriano R Lameira and his colleagues distinguished and analysed two new sounds in a German orang-utan by the name of Tilda (we wonder if her second name is Swing-ton?) that have never previously been observed in the species, either in the wild or in captivity. One of the newly detected sounds shows similarities to consonants used in human speech; the other to vowel sounds. Orang-utans produce sounds by quickly opening and closing their lips, a technique remarkably similar to that used by humans. www.uva.nl

mar & apr 2015

OPENING WHAT’S NEW?

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‘AS THE LOUVRE IS A CELEBRATION OF FRENCH REACH AND CULTURE, SO IS THIS A CELEBRATION OF DUTCH-NESS.’ MUSICIAN DAVID ‘TALKING HEADS’ BYRNE AFTER A RECENT TRIP TO THE RIJKSMUSEUM.

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AUTHOR RUSSELL SHORTO ON THE DUTCH APPROACH TO FAME.

MATISSE, THE SHEAF, 1953

‘THEY ARE PASSIONATE ABOUT THEIR CELEBRITIES... BUT WILL SUDDENLY TURN BLASÉ, AS IF THE CELEB WERE A FAMILY MEMBER WHO HAD BECOME UPPITY.’

FOOD FOR THOUGHT

www.culinaireverjaardagskalen der.tictail.com

BERNARDINO LUINI, ST CATHERINE OF ALEXANDRIA, 1527-’31. © STATE HERMITAGE

TOP 5 to do

Essentially a handwritten compendium of the birthdays of close friends and acquaintances, the birthday calendar (de verjaardagskalender) is a Dutch housekeeping institution. What’s remarkable is that this handy tome is most often kept in the smallest room of the house. That’s right – Dutch folk will often contemplate each other’s upcoming festivities whilst going about their most personal business. All that could change, however, with the arrival of the ‘Amsterdamse Culinaire Verjaardagskalender’. The brainchild of Amsterdam illustrator Elise van Iterson, the revolutionary new calendar combines the usual space for friends’ birthdays with recipes from Van Iterson’s favourite Amsterdam restaurants – which include meat Mecca Rotisserie  and the cosy Worst Wijncafé  – accompanied by gorgeous foodie illustrations.

If you only do one thing in Amsterdam, make it one of our top picks of must-do events, exhibitions, museums, music and more this issue.

1 THE OASIS OF MATISSE For the first Dutch retrospective of Henri Matisse in 60 years, the Stedelijk Museum places his joyous cut-out art in dialogue with its formidable permanent collection. 27 March-16 August Stedelijk Museum Museumplein 10 www.stedelijk.nl

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2 KING’S DAY

4 ALEXANDER, NAPOLEON

All hail the King… and his many revellers, as the nation’s capital marks the royal birthday not with a regal gala but with King’s Day, a street party to end all street parties.

Friendship, love, politics and art converge in the Hermitage’s new exhibition.

27 April Across town

28 March-18 October Hermitage Amsterdam Amstel 51 www.hermitage.nl

3 5 DAYS OFF

5 DE HALLENKWARTIER

From beat-heavy techno to sublime synth-pop: all things leftfield and electro converge at 5 Days Off. 4-8 March & Paradiso Melkweg http://5daysoff.nl

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& JOSÉPHINE

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A spectacular restoration is the resuscitated heart of a fast-regenerating neighbourhood, at the heart of which is a food hall to rival those of London and Madrid.

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Bellamyplein 51 www.foodhallen.nl

‘I WAS IN AMSTERDAM ON HOLIDAY IN LATE 2009, WHEN I VISITED THE RIJKSMUSEUM. IT WAS THERE THAT I SAW THIS GIGANTIC CABINET HOUSE.’

MEN AT WORK, ERNST COPPEJANS, TONY BULGARIJE

THE MINIATURIST NOVELIST JESSIE BURTON ON HOW A WEEKEND AWAY BECAME A BESTSELLER.

MEN AT WORK Amsterdam’s female sex workers have become an icon of this city, so much so that the De Wallen ‘window’ motif appears on cartoonish memorabilia that’s sold all over town. But where – and who – are their male equivalents? Intrigued by the fact that Amsterdam’s male escorts are rarely visible at street level, photographer Ernst Coppejans (whose series of portraits of gay West African men risking ten years’ imprisonment when they come out recently won both the Zilveren Camera and the SO2014 Award) set about depicting them in a series of photographs for the national Volkskrant newspaper. What’s remarkable about these images is that they have all been taken in the escorts’ own homes. ‘I wanted to know who these guys were and what motivated them,’ Coppejans told the gay-interest website Queerty. ‘These guys are normal guys who maybe have a job that’s out of the ordinary. They also have hopes and dreams.’ www.ernstcoppejans.com

DECENT PROPOSAL Chat-show host David Letterman is coming to Amsterdam, if footage from behind the scenes of his Late Show is to be believed. During the warmup, a couple in the audience asked if New Yorker Dave – due to retire this year – would visit them in Amsterdam. ‘Thank you for your generous offer, I’ll be there,’ replied Letterman, before asserting that Letterman is a Dutch name.

STARRY MIGHT The Japanese teppanyaki restaurant Sazanka at Hotel Okura Amsterdam has been awarded a Michelin star in the 2015 edition of the famous guidebook. Of the hotel’s other restaurants, Ciel Bleu kept its two stars and Yamazato also retained its star. Add to this Serre’s Bib Gourmand (which recognises exceptionally good food at moderate prices) and all four of the hotel’s restaurants have been granted Michelin awards, a feat unique in the world. Ferdinand Bolstraat 333 www.okura.nl

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PART I UP CLOSE

city escapes

CITY ESCAPES

As Holland springs into bloom, escape the city to see the fascinating history – and future – of the Netherlands writ large, all just on Amsterdam’s doorstep. THE WORLD’S MOST BEAUTIFUL GARDEN Keukenhof is the place to enjoy millions of flowering tulips, and offers a unique sensation of scents and colours, more than 20 spectacular flower shows and surprising inspirational gardens. Mail us to win Keukenhof combi-tickets, including return bus ticket (from Amsterdam Airport Schiphol) and entrance.

Mail & win

a-mag-win@iamsterdam.com Email us by 30 April to win 5 x 2 combi-tickets to the Keukenhof

From tranquil dunes to monumental fortresses and from picture-perfect polders to cutting-edge contemporary architecture: get out of town to explore the myriad charms of the Amsterdam Metropolitan Area. text Megan Roberts

FLOWER POWER

f there was a scrabble for the window seats on your flight into Amsterdam’s Schiphol Airport, here’s why: as the aircraft flies low over western Holland, those in the prime positions will catch a glance of breathtakingly bold, beautiful stripes of colour flaming across the landscape. This is Holland’s ‘bulb strip’, and at its centre sits the world’s largest flower garden, the Keukenhof (www.keukenhof.nl). For eight weeks only – from 20 March to 17 May – this former kitchen garden will burst into a kaleidoscope of colour, with 7 million bulbs planted in extraordinary patterns (this year taking as inspiration the 125th anniversary of Vincent van Gogh’s death) across the 32-hectare park. It’s set to be admired and photographed by a million international visitors, generating a substantial portion of the Netherlands’ tourism income. But this contemporary economic flower power is firmly rooted in the 17th century. While Henry Hudson was busy making the Dutch East India Company rich, the Netherlands’ Golden Age was manifesting itself back home in scientific discovery, art and commerce – of which the tulip was part and parcel. Arriving on Dutch shores from Turkey in the 1590s, the Dutch fascination with this

exotic bloom – evidenced in the many still lifes Holland’s most famous painters dedicated to the subject that line the walls of Amsterdam’s Rijksmuseum (www. rijksmuseum.nl) – heralded the rise of the world’s first consumer culture. Centuries before the words ‘dot’ and ‘com’ were ever strung together, the price of tulips allegedly reached canal-house proportions and led, says popular myth, to the bursting of the world’s first speculative bubble in 1637. How this small nation with little natural light is today the world’s leading supplier of fresh blooms is another flower in the cap of Dutch business acumen. Many chalk it up to the success of FloraHolland, the world’s largest flower auction in the town of Aalsmeer (www.floraholland.com), which started as a growers’ cooperative in 1911 and today handles more than 21 million cut flowers and 2 million potted plants each day. The unusual sales method – dealers bid by pushing a button to stop a clock that counts from 100 down to one, lowering the price until a buyer is found – coined another economic term: the Dutch auction. FIRST LINE OF DEFENCE As the Netherlands ‘blossomed’ during the Golden Age, Amsterdam’s rich merchant class found novel ways to spend its newfound wealth and leisure time. The

PART I UP CLOSE

GROTE KERK, HAARLEM Opposite the town hall on Haarlem’s central Grote Markt looms the Gothic Grote Kerk, or St Bavo’s church, whose 50-metre steeple has dominated the city’s skyline for centuries. Built between 1370 and 1520, the church is UNESCOprotected and contains some beautiful Renaissance artworks. Famous painters Frans Hals and Pieter Saenredam are buried here, and the renowned Müller organ – one of the finest in the world, standing 30m high with about 5,000 pipes – was once played by a ten-yearold Mozart.

Oude Groenmarkt 23, Haarlem www.bavo.nl

AMSTERDAM CASTLE MUIDERSLOT With its drawbridge, sturdy towers, battlements and embrasures, Muiderslot is the archetypal medieval stronghold – the kind of castle you’d be delighted to build at the beach. Built around 1285 by Count Floris V, an ally of the French Court and later of the British King Edward, some 300 years later Muiderslot was home to ‘Dutch Shakespeare’ Pieter Corneliszoon Hooft. Today, it’s an informative and fun family day out. Take a tour through the impressive knights’ hall, towers, dungeon and armoury, stroll through the beautiful herb and vegetable gardens that still retain the atmosphere of the Dutch Renaissance and enjoy the fantastic views from the ramparts. A special interactive tour for kids – where they can play dress-up and even try their hand at jousting – comes highly recommended, as do the summertime falconry displays. Herengracht 1, Muiden www.muiderslot.nl

TODAY, THE ZAAN AREA IS A MAGNIFICENT PIECE OF PRESERVED INDUSTRIAL HERITAGE.

city escapes

11 recently built Canal Ring may have been the most prized of addresses, but before the advent of modern sanitation, the stench of rotting meat filled the city when it got hot, and the risk of plague increased – ‘in the morning,’ wrote English tourist John Walker in 1671, ‘the canals smell disgusting.’ So each summer, the city’s elite would leave their primary residences and retreat to extravagant castles and country estates on the banks of the rivers Amstel and Vecht, many of which can still be visited or viewed from the water. While it took the holidaymakers of the 17th century up to seven hours to reach their summer retreats, today they’re just a hop, skip and a jump from Amsterdam city centre. And while these historical river estates were purely recreational in purpose, the castles of fortified towns such as Muiden (see page 10), Naarden and Weesp that comprise the UNESCO-protected Defence Line of Amsterdam were once the city’s first line of defence. Today this 135-kilometre-long ring of fortifications offers a fascinating and vivid glimpse into medieval times and more recent military history. The preserved fortified town of Naarden, its centre still encompassed by two elaborate star-shaped moats and stonewalls, was used as a rallying point for Allied bombers during World War II. Swallowed by the Zuiderzee, burned by the Spaniards, occupied by the French and Prussians and later by Napoleon’s troops, the history of Naarden is both bloody and fascinating, and the Dutch Fortress Museum (www.vestingmuseum.nl) brings its story to life. Visitors can also learn about the ‘New Dutch Waterline’: by flooding large sections of land with water too shallow for boats and too deep to march through, this military line of defence, designed in 1815, helped to keep Holland out of war for more than a century. THE PROSPERITY OF THE GOLDEN AGE Cobblestone streets, historic buildings, grand churches, even grander museums, cosy bars and fine cafés: elegant Haarlem bears testimony to the pomp and splendour the Golden Age brought to North Holland. From its origins as a tenth-century toll post,

MARKEN So picture-perfect it’s like stepping into a 17th-century Dutch landscape painting, historic Marken, with its characteristic green wooden houses – 145 of which are National Monuments – was an island in the Zuiderzee until 1957, when it was connected to the mainland by a dyke. The isolationist days are still evident, in both the distinctive dialect and the traditional dress still worn by some inhabitants. Since 1933, the Marken Express has been sailing between the two old fishing villages of Volendam and Marken (www.marken-express.nl). From the boat you have a great view of the fishermen’s houses standing along the dyke.

Amsterdam’s close neighbour quickly became the most important inland port after the capital, and in spite of turbulent times following the Spanish invasion in 1572, the city soared in the Golden Age, becoming a centre for arts and culture. If you take the train to Haarlem (which takes just 15 minutes from Amsterdam), the history lesson begins the moment you arrive. The only Dutch railway station built according to the principles of the the Jugendstil (art nouveau style), it was constructed in 1906 and is characterised by tiled panels, decorative ironwork and a striking wooden signal house. It’s a fitting introduction to a city that is teeming with exceptionally rich history. There are 4,000 municipal and national listed monuments in Haarlem, many of them in the well-preserved historic city centre and within easy walking distance of one another. The Amsterdamse Poort, located at the end of the old route from Amsterdam to Haarlem, dates from 1355 and is the last remaining of 12 original city gates that formed the main city defences. Fast forward a few centuries, and behind the heavy monumental door of the oldest museum in the Netherlands, the perfectly preserved world of the 18th-century Enlightenment awaits. In period surroundings, visitors to the Teylers Museum (www. teylersmuseum.nl) rediscover the newest scientific experiments, ‘recently’ excavated fossils and drawings and accounts of journeys of discovery. The Frans Hals Museum, meanwhile, celebrates arguably Haarlem’s most famous native. Housed in the city poorhouse, the collection focuses on the 17th-century Haarlem School, and boasts the world’s largest collection of paintings by the eponymous artist. Just a few minutes down the road, Holland’s North Sea beaches, water-sports Mecca IJmuiden aan Zee and bustling Zandvoort aan Zee – not to mention the protected dune landscape – offer a welcome contrast (see page 12). THE WORLD’S LARDER If Haarlem bears testimony to the thriving culture of the Dutch Golden Age, North

city escapes

PART I UP CLOSE

Under the banner ‘new land, new spirit’, potential residents of Flevoland were expected to help develop an entirely new society.

NEW LAND, NEW SPIRIT With progress came change. In the 20th century, work began on reclaiming a large area of land – measuring more than 1,800 square kilometres – from the inland Zuiderzee, drastically changing the future of North Holland’s scenic smalltown harbours, and creating the Netherlands’ twelfth and youngest province, Flevoland, in the process. Before the Zuiderzee was impoldered, it posed a looming and constant threat to the inhabitants of the surrounding areas, with

thousands of people losing their lives during storm floods. In 1891, therefore, engineer Cornelis Lely – for whom Flevoland’s capital, Lelystad, is named – became the architect of the biggest land reclamation project of all time. Strategically located at the edge of the Zuiderzee, Edam, Volendam, Marken (see page 11) and Monnickendam were once about two things: fishing and trade. With the impoldering of the Zuiderzee, their future was rewritten. Fortunately, the authentic character of each of these towns has been preserved – including their lively harbours, which now feature bustling quayside terraces and cosy eateries. The chances are you’ll bump into a resident in traditional costume here, which is still worn by some locals. But while these smalltown harbours were busy preserving their traditions, the Zuiderzee Project was also considered an exercise in the creation of societies. Potential residents of Flevoland were meticulously screened. They were expected to part with their traditions and under the banner ‘new land, new spirit’, help develop an entirely new society. But by the time Flevoland’s cities Almere and Lelystad were finally built, the idea of the government determining where people could live was outmoded. The group of pioneers that established themselves in the desolate and empty polder was now expanded with adventurers from all corners of the Netherlands, looking for new opportunities in the new land.

OUDERKERK AAN DE AMSTEL Located just south of Amsterdam on the bank of the Ouderkerkerplas Lake, picturesque Ouderkerk aan de Amstel makes regular appearances in the oeuvre of Dutch Old Master Rembrandt van Rijn. With its noteworthy architecture, Michelin-starred restaurants, unspoiled polder landscape and preserved historic houses, today it offers a scenic refuge from the hustle and bustle of its infamous neighbour to the north.

For more City Escapes – including practical visitor information – see www.iamsterdam. com/cityescapes

Holland’s industrial history is captured in microcosm in the Zaan region. When Amsterdam’s craft guilds opposed the construction of windmills within the city limits in the 17th century, more than 1,000 were built here instead. Today, this area is a magnificent piece of perfectly preserved industrial heritage. Wood was sawn and sails and ropes were made in these mills. Ships were built in the nearby docks, and the region developed into the centre of shipbuilding in 17th-century Europe – Russian Tsar Peter the Great even came here to learn the craft (see the preserved house where he stayed; www. zaansmuseum.nl). The goods these ships brought back from their voyages – mustard, cocoa, wood, paint and paper – were processed here too. This laid the foundation for rapid industrialisation in the 19th century along the River Zaan. As shipbuilding was eclipsed by the food industry, Zaandam came to be nicknamed ‘the larder of the Netherlands’. The perfectly preserved museum village Zaanse Schans (www. dezaanseschans.nl) is a glimpse into 18thand 19th-century industrial Holland (see page 13).

NORTH SEA BEACHES Be it to lounge in the sun or for various water-sports, Holland’s North Sea beaches are a popular day trip for locals and visitors alike. In summertime, sun-seekers flock to the wide expanses of sand at Zandvoort aan Zee to bask on the beautiful golden beaches and visit the hip cafés, restaurants and trendy beach clubs overlooking the sea. For the thrill-seekers, the Noord-Holland coastal town of IJmuiden aan Zee is a renowned spot for water- and wind-sports. Nature lovers, meanwhile, can hike or cycle through the protected dunes that border the beaches, and feel invigorated by the ever-changing landscape.

LAND ART FLEVOLAND

THE BEEMSTER POLDER

During the creation of the Flevoland polder, the engineers and planners considered every element of their new society, from architecture to art. Six land art works by world-famous artists such as Robert Morris, Richard Serra and Daniel Libeskind were commissioned. And, unique in the world, they can all be visited in a single day, either by yourself (by car) or during an organised bus tour in the summer months. The annual Land Art Live programme sees contemporary artists respond to the mammoth art works with temporary interventions. See www.schouwburgalmere. nl/informatie/Landschaps kunst_in_Flevoland

ANTONY GORMLEY, EXPOSURE

The Beemster area, the birthplace of the eponymous cheese, is a UNESCO World Heritage site. An oasis of green polders, waterways, 38 kilometres of dykes and restored mills – and an easy 30-minute bike ride from Amsterdam – this flat, watery landscape is also home to some 350 traditional farmhouses with characteristic pyramid-shaped roofs. Take a cycle trip around the best examples, including De Eenhoorn farm, one of the grandest and most imposing. The Waterland village of De Rijp is often dubbed ‘Holland’s most beautiful village’. If you cycle, sail or walk through it, you’ll soon understand why.

ZAANSE SCHANS Deriving its name from an earthwork or ‘sconce’ that stood here during the Dutch revolt against Spain from 1568-1648, with its traditional houses, windmills, warehouses and workshops, the historic village of Zaanse Schans offers a preserved glimpse of what it was like to live in the industrial heart of the Netherlands in the 18th and 19th centuries. Many of the village’s characteristic houses are now museums, gift shops or workshops, and some of the remaining Zaanse Schans windmills are open to the public. Schansend 7, Zaandam www.dezaanseschans.nl

LEISURE LAKES Located in Aalsmeer, the Westeinderplassen (West End Lakes) is one of the biggest lakes in the country, with plenty of water-sports options from windsurfing to sailing lessons. Or rent a boat and go on an adventure through the network of tiny channels that link the lakes together. There are dozens of small islands, mostly privately owned, but everyone is welcome to moor their boat at Starteiland (Start Island). It’s a popular place to barbeque – but be sure to bring everything with you, because there are no facilities. Other islands still grow strawberries and lilacs – just as they did long ago. There are some 50 marinas along the banks of the Westeinderplassen, many with restaurants, cafés and sun-drenched terraces.

PRACTICAL INFO

BAS MEEUWS, UNTITLED (#90)

For more information on any of these City Escapes – and for practical help regarding public transport, regional hotels, restaurants and more – see www.iamsterdam.com/ cityescapes or pick up the individual brochures available at I amsterdam Visitor Centres: CENTRAL STATION Stationsplein 10 (across from Central Station) Tel: +31 (0)20 702 6000 Open Mon-Sat 09.00-17.00; Sun 09.00-16.00 SCHIPHOL AIRPORT Arrivals 2 at Schiphol Plaza Open daily 07.00-22.00

PART I UP CLOSE

city escapes

mar & apr 2015

PART II 16 20 23 25 26 27

ENTERTAINMENT

‘AMSTERDAM IS A LITTLE COSMOPOLITAN VILLAGE WITH THE FEELING OF A BIG CITY, BUT SMALL DISTANCES THAT YOU CAN TRAVEL BY BIKE. TO ME, THAT COMBINATION MEANS A QUALITY STANDARD OF LIVING.’

THE OASIS OF MATISSE KING’S DAY LA DAME AUX CAMÉLIAS 13 QUESTIONS FILM NIGHTLIFE ESSENTIALS STRONG LANGUAGE The Nederlands Dans Theater performs three choreographies by three great masters. Kleines Requiem by Hans van Manen is a work for seven dancers, set to music by the Polish composer Henryk Mikolaj Górecki. Also on the bill: a new work by Crystal Pite, and Sara by Sharon Eyal and DJ Gai Behar, who are making waves in Israel’s dance world. The piece is set to a hypnotic electronic composition. THURSDAY 23-SATURDAY 25 APRIL Stadsschouwburg, Leidseplein 26 http://stadsschouwburgamsterdam.nl

Restaurant titan Yossi Eliyahoo waxes lyrical about his adopted hometown.

FIND A FALLEN STAR German photographer Regine Petersen explores stories of meteorite falls all over the world, including a rock crashing through the roof of an Alabama home in the ’50s, a group of children recovering a meteorite in their village in post-war Germany and a more recent event in India. Petersen has met with eyewitnesses and complements her photographs with documents and interviews.

20 MARCH-3 MAY Foam, Keizersgracht 609 www.foam.org

PART II ARTS & ENTERTAINMENT

matisse

Cut & paste For the first Dutch retrospective of Henri Matisse in 60 years, the Stedelijk Museum places his joyous cut-out art in dialogue with its formidable permanent collection.

MATISSE, LA PERRUCHE ET LA SIRÈNE, 1952–1953, COLLECTION STEDELIJK MUSEUM AMSTERDAM

text Megan Roberts

he story goes that when failing health confined Henri Matisse to a wheelchair he swapped paintbrush for scissors, forced to adopt the compositional technique he’d previously used to plan his works but kept secret: ‘I have now “worked” with some blue paper for the background,’ he wrote to his son and dealer Pierre about a mural he was working on – adding, in parentheses, ‘but it is necessary not to say anything about this.’ While this radical new method may have helped Matisse finally shake those pesky Picasso comparisons, the results are sometimes unfairly regarded as a minor appendage to his venerable half-century career. Happily, the Stedelijk’s head of collections,

Bart Rutten, treats Matisse’s joyous, exuberant cut-outs as more than painting or sculpture by other means, placing them front and centre in the museum’s sure-to-beblockbuster upcoming exhibition. Pride of place is given to the Stedelijk’s own ‘The Parakeet and the Mermaid’ (1952-’53), which the bed-bound artist himself described as ‘a little garden all around me where I can walk’. One of the largest cut-outs Matisse ever made, it is a prime example of this late, great flowering of his artistic powers. From amid Matisse’s characteristic algae-like fauna, a balletic mermaid emerges, watched by a parakeet – like energy held in check and then released. There are, apparently, 17 different oranges alone in Matisse’s cut-outs, and if you look closely you see five or six of

them here. Not for nothing is this one of the Stedelijk’s most popular artworks. Presented alongside other cut-outs by Matisse – including ‘Memory of Oceania’ from the Museum of Modern Art in New York, ‘The Snail’ from the collection of Tate Modern, London and ‘The Sheaf ’ from the Hammer Museum of Art in Los Angeles – plus rarely exhibited works in fabric and stained glass inspired by them, ‘The Parakeet and the Mermaid’ offers new context to one of the defining periods in modern art. ‘Comparing and contrasting Matisse’s work with pieces in the Stedelijk collection not only allows us to see the collection afresh, but also offers remarkable insights into one of the world’s most exhibited, researched, and written-about artists,’ says Rutten. ‘When

don’t miss these

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ED ATKINS – RECENT OUIJA Another Amsterdam premiere as the Stedelijk Museum presents the Netherlands’ first solo exhibition of British artist Ed Atkins (b.1982). Atkins is among the vanguard of ‘digital native’ artists, making extensive use of cutting-edge digital technologies such as high-definition computer-generated imagery, surround soundtracking and extensive digital compositing. In ‘Ribbons’, Atkins’ digital avatar – a smoking, drinking, disembodied virtual hunk called Dave – rambles on in a philosophising monologue, bursts into song and quaffs whisky, finally deflating like an old balloon, perhaps commenting on the complexities of co-existing in a virtual sphere.

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UNTIL 31 MAY Stedelijk Museum, Museumplein 10 www.stedelijk.nl

If you weren’t in town to witness the picturesque Amsterdam scenes that resulted from the real snowfall in January and February, take heart in the ‘Spring Snow’ initiative, which promises equally fabulous – not to mention more temperate – photo opportunities in late April and throughout May. It’s estimated that there are some 75,000 elm trees in and around Amsterdam, and an official 8km walk has been devised to best take in the springtime spectacle of whirling elm seeds floating through the air, finishing at Hortus Botanicus, the oldest botanical gardens in the Netherlands.

GEERT VAN DER WIJK

SPRINGSNOW FESTIVAL

21 APRIL-21 MAY www.springsnow.nl

experienced in conversation with icons from our collection, lesser-known facets of Matisse’s work are revealed. For instance, the expressionists drew heavily on the Fauves – seen beside [Ernst Ludwig] Kirchner, you realise the rawness Matisse’s work has. And seeing how, in 1914, Matisse and Mondrian were both pushing towards abstraction, you witness two artists offering a very different, singular interpretation. Although Matisse’s work contained all the ingredients, he never embraced abstraction in its totality. For Matisse, the connection with reality was simply too compelling.’ 27 MARCH-16 AUGUST Stedelijk Museum, Museumplein 10 www.stedelijk.nl

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Fans of top-notch electro beats are in for a treat this Easter as more than 80 artists and DJs descend on the city’s former industrial docklands to pump out some of the best underground electronica in the world today. Encompassing multiple stages, this indoor-outdoor experience mixes up established and new DJs and live acts, along with an artistic flourish that connects modern innovation to industrial nostalgia. Pachanga Boys (a joint project by German DJ Superpitcher and Mexican Mauricio Rebolledo; pictured) will bring airy tracks that fuse folksy melodic lines and exotic percussion, while at the other end of the spectrum is melodic techno maverick Pantha Du Prince (live).

ED ATKINS, RIBBONS, 2014, COURTESY OF THE ARTIST AND CABINET, LONDON

DGTL FESTIVAL

SATURDAY 4 & SUNDAY 5 APRIL NDSM-Werf www.dgtlfestival.com

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RIJKSMUSEUM LATE REMBRANDT Until 17 May

A major retrospective of Rembrandt van Rijn’s late works dating from c.1652, bringing together more than 90 paintings, drawings and prints from the world’s leading museums and private collections to showcase Rembrandt at the height of his power. €2.50 discount with your I amsterdam City Card

STEDELIJK MUSEUM THE OASIS OF MATISSE 27 March-16 August

The first survey exhibition of Henri Matisse in the Netherlands in over 60 years transports visitors through the presentation of the permanent collection, enriched by more Matisse works than ever shown together in any Dutch museum. The exhibition shows paintings, sculptures and work on paper by this master in dialogue with the Stedelijk collection. FREE entrance with your I amsterdam City Card

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ZUIDERZEE MUSEUM In 1932 the Afsluitdijk closed off the former Zuiderzee from the North Sea, creating two inland lakes. The Zuiderzee Museum tells the fascinating history of the region, focusing on the themes of water, crafts and communities. This story is visualised in the Outdoor Museum with historical buildings, and in the Indoor Museum with thematic exhibitions. Heritage, visual art, photography and design all play an important role.

ERIK EN PETRA HESMERG

HENRI MATISSE MEMORY OF OCEANIA, 1952-1953

REMBRANDT, SELF-PORTRAIT WITH TWO CIRCLES, 1665-1669

In Amsterdam

FREE entrance with your I amsterdam City Card

AMSTERDAM CASTLE MUIDERSLOT Located in Muiden to the east of Amsterdam, Amsterdam Castle Muiderslot’s legacy dates all the way back to 1280 when Count Floris V commissioned the construction of a stone fortress on the grounds. Part of the UNESCO-listed Defence Line of Amsterdam, the enchanting castle and gardens are a sure-fire hit with visitors of all ages. FREE entry with your I amsterdam City Card

THE AMSTERDAM & REGION DAY TICKET Discover Amsterdam and the surrounding area with this special 24-hour public transport pass valid on metros, trams and buses operated by GVB, Connexxion, Arriva and EBS. Purchase the Amsterdam & Region Day Ticket for the special price of €10 with the I amsterdam City Card. www.iamsterdam.com/citycard Offer exclusively available at the I amsterdam Visitor Centres at Central Station and Schiphol Airport.

GE OUT T TOW OF N BU PASS S

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featured artist

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‘[After this tour] I personally feel I will be more Adonis-like in appearance and be able to have sex for days on end. Sting should be anticipating some changes as well.’

Most professional photography is created by artists who know what they’re looking for, who choose and set the scene. By contrast, the work of Belgian photographer Geert Goiris feels as though the world around him – and the medium with which he captures it – continues to surprise him. Goiris’s layered images of sublime landscapes, modernist architecture and enigmatic people have a peculiar, unreal beauty despite being captured from real life.

GEERT GOIRIS – FLASHBULB MEMORIES, ASH GREY PROPHECIES

20 MARCH-24 MAY Foam, Keizersgracht 609 www.foam.org

STING & PAUL SIMON Born: 13 October 1941 & 2 October 1951, respectively

SCAPINO BALLET ROTTERDAM – SONGS FOR DRELLA

Talent: The non-Garfunkel half of one of the world’s most famous duos and the tantric new-wave former Police-man have joined forces for a world tour, covering each other’s hits and singing as a duo.

18 April Ziggo Dome, De Passage 100 www.ziggodome.nl

Sting: ‘It’s not so much a spirit of competition between us, its just raising each other’s game to be together. I feel I have to raise my game to be on stage with him.’ Simon: ‘We come from very different places, culturally. Our voices are different, our accents are different and our sense of rhythms are different… It’s a really interesting blend.’ In conversation with Rolling Stone.

Set to Lou Reed and John Cale’s moving musical ode to Andy Warhol, this production has earned Scapino plenty of praise. The choreography by Ed Wubbe and Marco Goecke is inspired by Reed and Cale’s legendary live performance of the eponymous 1989 album. The two extremes of Warhol’s personality – the nickname ‘Drella’ is a portmanteau of Cinderella, and Dracula – are the two contrasts underpinning the entire choreography. Two choreographers, two languages of movement, two musicians, two voices – dual perspectives of this kind are particularly apt when considering the layered, complex genius of Andy Warhol, which hovered somewhere between art and advertising.

8 APRIL Tolhuistuin, IJpromenade 2 www.tolhuistuin.nl

This six-piece Mongolian metal outfit has engendered a passion for traditional throat singing that probably few knew they possessed. Taking their name from the central steppes of Asia, Hanggai roughly translates as ‘beloved land of grasses, white clouds and blue skies’ – which is somewhat misleading. Make no mistake: this is no panpipe-lite world music band: their sound is a headbanging fusion of traditional stringed Mongolian instruments and distorted guitar, lead by a former punk-turned-traditional khoomei throat-singer. They’re here touring last year’s feature-length, Baifang.

HANGGAI

3 & 4 MARCH Stadsschouwburg, Leidseplein 26 http://stadsschouwburgamsterdam.nl

PART II ARTS & ENTERTAINMENT

king's day

All hail the King… …And his many revellers, as the nation’s capital marks the royal birthday not with a regal gala but with King’s Day, a street party to end all street parties. text Lauren Comiteau photos Cris Toala Olivares

N 27 APRIL Across town www.iamsterdam.com

o one throws a national party like the Dutch. Sure, Americans and Brits send up the fireworks or gather round the bonfire for their national celebrations. But not all together, as one. The country’s second ever King’s Day this 27 April, formerly known as Queen’s Day until Queen Beatrix abdicated the throne in 2013, is national unity at its finest. Which is exactly what the day was supposed to be when it was first introduced

in 1885 as Prinsessedag, or Princess’s Day, in honour of Princess Wilhelmina. Her father, King Willem III, wasn’t very popular. But not so his little princess. In an act worthy of today’s tabloid culture, the House of Orange-Nassau put their most popular royal front and centre in a patriotism-promoting move. ‘The initiative is certainly something they made up to organise a very divided community and back the monarchy,’ says Amsterdam Museum director Paul Spies of

a 19th-century Netherlands where life was organised – ‘from cradle to grave’ – along religious and philosophical affiliations and where early socialist movements were gaining traction in Europe. ‘The monarchy wanted to be a symbol of national unity, and what better way to do that than to make your birthday a national celebration?’ For sure the royal initiators of what is now King’s Day had a big celebration in mind – one big enough to rival the many religious and political

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king’s day top tips  JOERI VAN DER WOLFF, 18 IN HIS GAP YEAR, STUDYING NEXT YEAR IN AMSTERDAM ‘For the last few years I‘ve always gone to a festival, like Loveland in the Oosterpark or in Amsterdam North. What I like about the festivals is the atmosphere: everyone is in orange and everyone is going to a party so that makes it nice. These festivals are more for people from Amsterdam, too. I would recommend visitors first go to the Vondelpark – definitely one of best things you can do – and go to the markets or a festival. But it’s maybe nicest just to walk around the city centre. The atmosphere there, along the canals with all the boats, is great.’

 LENKA SIMSIC, 13, STUDENT AMSTERDAM LYCEUM ‘When we were younger, we used to sell our old things in the Vondelpark. And my mother would make crown-shaped cookies and my brother and I would make games and charge people money to play them. We usually made around €100! Now that I’m older, I like to walk around and shop for myself in the vrijmarkten and eat all the good food. The Jordaan is a nice place to be because it’s not too crowded and there’s lots do, lots for sale and lots of concerts.’

 REGINA NDUNGE, 39 ADMINISTRATIVE ASSISTANT

feasts of the day – but whether they could have predicted it would turn into the spareno-street party it is today in the nation’s capital is doubtful. These days King’s Day is less about royalty and nation building and more about community, a social leveller that has the well-off and the less well-off partying sideby-side. If there is a unifier, it’s the colour: orange. Everyone and everything (think café, bar, storefront, canal boat) is decked out in some shade of

the national hue. Also universal are the free markets, or vrijmarkten, where the city’s residents take advantage of the one day a year they can unload their second-hand goods permit-free and engage in some good-natured trading like their merchant-minded ancestors have done for centuries. But in the end, nothing unifies the nation like a big bash. ‘We’ve lost the church and all its festivities,’ says Spies. ‘Instead, we have King’s Day – one big party.’

‘First of all, I have to dress in orange. Then I take all my stuff I don’t need and I go sell it. It’s nice for the kids, too, to sell their old clothes and toys. Most of the time I’m at the Amstelveld. It’s really a place for children, and I live near there so I see familiar faces. Then from 12 it’s time to party! I leave the kids with their dad and go listen to music. I go from one tent to the other, dancing and looking around. The Rembrandtplein is nice and also the Frederiksplein, where there’s a really big tent with music, a DJ and an open podium.’

For King‘s Day events across town, see www.iamsterdam.com

Now on display in the Hermitage Amsterdam

PART II

A lady and her ﬂowers

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Neumeier’s tragic balletic love story finally reaches the Dutch stage. text Bregtje Schudel

utch principal dancer Marijn Rademaker may still be finding his bearings in the labyrinthine Muziektheater (home of the Dutch National Ballet), but when it comes to the company’s upcoming performance of contemporary ballet classic La Dame aux Camélias (based on the eponymous novel by Alexandre Dumas), he’s the goto-guy. After dancing the lead in three revivals and over 20 performances at the Stuttgart Ballet, it’s a part he knows by heart. It was Rademaker’s portrayal of Armand, the endearingly honest lover who melts courtesan Marguerite’s tubercular heart, in 2006 that propelled him to stardom at the renowned German ballet company. ‘I was a demi-soloist at the time,’ recalls Rademaker (33), who ‘came home’ to join the Dutch National Ballet at the beginning of the year. ‘That’s two steps down from principal, so being asked to dance the leading role did raise some eyebrows at the time.’ The critics were quickly silenced when the Nijmegen native was promptly promoted to principal. American choreographer John Neumeier created the piece in 1979, yet this is the first time La Dame aux Camélias is being performed by the Dutch National Ballet – and about time too, says Rademaker. ‘It really is a masterpiece. It easily holds its own amongst other classics like Swan Lake, Sleeping Beauty and The Nutcracker. It has such a beautiful and harrowing love story, the staging by Jürgen Rose [famed German

opera director and scenery and costume designer] is just gorgeous and the music is really lovely and accessible.’ Somewhat surprisingly, Neumeier decided against setting his ballet to Verdi’s musical composition La Traviata (based on the same story), opting instead for a selection of piano concertos by Chopin, whose love affair with female novelist George Sand was almost as tempestuous – if not quite as lethal – as that of Armand and Marguerite. Rademaker thinks it an apt choice: ‘Chopin’s music and Neumeier’s choreography are a really good fit. Most of Chopin’s piano concertos have a lot of breathing room between notes. Nothing’s there but at the same time so much happens. John’s choreographies work the same way. It’s not movement upon movement upon movement. Sometimes there’s just a look that lingers. Ballet master Kevin Haigen likes to call it the “power of nothing”.’ Those three little words are also the key to what makes a good Armand, says Rademaker. ‘The performance has to be artless, without affectation. It’s what attracts Marguerite to Armand in the first place. He doesn’t give her presents, but he treats her like a real human being. Armand is completely sincere, if also quite naive. When she tells him she will die, he says he doesn’t mind. He will cure her with his love!’

LA DAME AUX CAMÉLIAS 10-26 April Dutch National Opera & Ballet Amstel 3 www.operaballet.nl

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highlights

PART II ARTS & ENTERTAINMENT

Audio overload

FRANÇOIS GÉRARD, PORTRAIT OF EMPRESS JOSEPHINE, 1801. © STATE HERMITAGE MUSEUM, ST PETERSBURG

From beat-heavy techno to sublime synth-pop: all things leftfield and electro converge at 5 Days Off. text Christian de Wit

S The art of war

Friendship, love, politics and art converge in the Hermitage Amsterdam’s new exhibition. text Megan Roberts

hen Napoleon Bonaparte – arguably the most famous Frenchman in history – heard of the death of his exwife, he locked himself in his room for two days, refusing all visitors. On his own deathbed the pint-sized pugilist reaffirmed his commitment to the woman he divorced because she could not provide France with an heir: ‘France, the Army, the Head of the Army, Joséphine,’ were reportedly his final words. And yet Napoleon and the charismatic Joséphine had been estranged for four years. Napoleon was in exile and the empress was openly cavorting with his sometime friend – and the man responsible for his banishment – Tsar Alexander I. Just days before she succumbed to pneumonia in 1814, Joséphine took a stroll with the Russian tsar. Joséphine’s children from her first marriage came under Alexander’s patronage upon her death, and it was he who bought her extensive art collection, thought to number some 400 exceptional

pieces, including works by Dutch and Italian masters Potter, Van der Werff, Luini and Canova. This trove is the basis of the Hermitage Amsterdam’s blockbuster exhibition Alexander, Napoleon & Joséphine, which tells the story of the fraught friendships of this powerful triumvirate. Paintings, sculptures, personal possessions, gowns and uniforms, objets d’art and weapons – some purchases, others diplomatic gifts, still more the spoils of war – are the trappings of a decade of uneasy peace and frequent war that ultimately redrew the map of Europe. Yet in spite of their continued clashes, the 19th century’s two most powerful players retained a begrudging respect for one another – ‘If I were not Napoleon, I would have liked to be Alexander,’ said the French emperor in 1815 – and a mutual affection for Joséphine de Beauharnais. 28 MARCH-18 OCTOBER Hermitage Amsterdam, Amstel 51 www.hermitage.nl

ince its inception 20 years ago as the younger sibling of Ghent’s respected 10 Days Off festival, 5 Days Off has come of age. And while there’s certainly no shortage of dance music parties in this city, Amsterdam’s compact iteration distinguishes itself with a programme of both big-name and underground acts (case in point: this year, trip-hop darling FKA twigs – pictured – sits alongside emerging one-man band and former Kyteman percussionist Binkbeats). To make your lives easier, we’ve cherry-picked three nights you really shouldn’t miss. Techno veteran and former yoga teacher (!) Anthony Child, aka Surgeon, has regained respect among purists after intensive collaborations with younger kids on the block, most notably Blawan. Catch this stoical, grey-bearded fortysomething playing a ruthless DJ set alongside Peter Van Hoesen and Sandrien at Melkweg on Thursday 5 March.

Same time, same place just 24 hours later: London’s FunkinEven takes it away with an eclectic disco and house set. The NTS Radio resident is known for his deep, original tracks in which he combines samples by the likes of Level 42 with original, heavy analogue sounds. Equally analogue are the clubby beats of Irish duo Bicep. On Saturday 7 March at Paradiso, three disco legends from the genre’s heyday take over the decks. Originally hailing from France, François Kevorkian was one of the original DJs to play alongside Larry Levan in legendary clubs like Studio 54 and Paradise Garage. Coming from the same scene as Yoko Ono, The Rolling Stones and others, Danny Krivit eventually decided to take the disco path. The two team up with Joe Claussell, who gives something of a world-music flavour to the glitter-ball genre. 5 DAYS OFF 4-8 March Melkweg & Paradiso http://5daysoff.nl

13 questions Yossi Eliyahoo (42) is a creative entrepreneur and founder of the successful restaurants Momo, Izakaya and The Butcher. He was born in Tel Aviv and now divides his time between Amsterdam and New York. 

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‘Amsterdam is painted with the beautiful colours of life.’

2. FAVOURITE THEATRE? ‘I don’t have time to go as often as I’d like to but I do sometimes go to DeLaMar (https://delamar .nl) . I like the minimalistic and modern atmosphere of the building.’ 3. BEST CINEMA? ‘The Eye building is wonderful (www.eyefilm.nl) . I like the combination of a cinema and a museum under one roof.’ 4. TOP RESTAURANT? ‘Castell, on the Lijnbaansgracht, which has been serving great steak for 35 years (www.castell amsterdam.nl) . To me, this restaurant defines Amsterdam:

the historic building, the authentic atmosphere. I go there every other week. I always eat the Sirloin or the ribs. So good.’ 5. MUSEUM? ‘I’m really interested in photography, so Foam is one of my favourites (www.foam.org) . Last year I saw an exposition by Jacob van Rozelaar. I loved it. There’s so much expression in his pictures.’ 6. WHAT’S THE BEST THING ABOUT AMSTERDAMMERS? ‘They are grounded, intelligent, basic and casual. I like that. It’s the bread and butter of life. Everyone rides bikes no matter how much money they have. It seems no one needs to show off.’ 7. AND THE WORST? ‘The men really aren’t romantic.’ 8. WHAT’S THE BEST VIEW IN AMSTERDAM? ‘From the former Shell tower, in Amsterdam North . I’m

DAN PEREZ

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text Inger van der Ree

1.BEST THING ABOUT LIVING IN AMSTERDAM? ‘I love it! Amsterdam is a little cosmopolitan village with the feeling of a big city, but small distances that you can travel by bike. To me, that combination means a quality standard of living.’

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opening a restaurant there at the beginning of 2016, so I’ve had the chance to climb the tower already. Since the building is under construction there’s no elevator yet so I had to climb the stairs. It was a bit exhausting, but the view is splendid.’

11. WHO’S YOUR FAVOURITE AMSTERDAM ARTIST? ‘The street artist Selwyn Senatori. His style is really unique. He has a gallery now on the Rokin (www.rokin75.com) . He often comes to my restaurant. One afternoon he drew his cartoons on all our napkins.’

9.FAVOURITE NEIGHBOURHOOD? ‘De Jordaan is an area full of colour – the colours of the buildings, the little bookshops, the canals and the old boats. In short, the colours of life. The atmosphere is so local there.’

12. WHAT BUILDING WOULD YOU MOST LIKE TO SPEND THE NIGHT IN? ‘I really like the Sir Albert Hotel, in De Pijp (www.siralberthotel. com) . The building is a former diamond factory, such a beautiful piece of history. And it’s so lively, there are always people chatting and enjoying life.’

10. WHAT SHOULD SOMEONE DO WITH A SINGLE DAY IN AMSTERDAM? ‘Wake up in De Pijp, walk through the Red Light District, have lunch in the Jordaan, go to the Van Gogh Museum and have dinner at the Foodhallen in West (www.foodhallen.nl) . It’ll be a busy day, but definitely worth it.’

13. AMSTERDAM HERO? ‘So many. But if I have to pick one then that would be Jos van Tilburg, from G-Star. He started this brand from scratch and now G-star is one of the best-known brands in the world. He’s so inspiring to me.’

PART II ARTS & ENTERTAINMENT

film

Taking you through Amsterdam’s movie scene, one cinema at a time.

De Balie

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Where everything’s in context.

text Bregtje Schudel

DE BALIE Kleine-Gartmanplantsoen 10 www.debalie.nl

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s a popular drinking ground near the notoriously frenetic Leidseplein, De Balie (The Bar) is hard to miss. But this cultural centre housed in a former courthouse came *this* close to not being here at all. When the court moved to a bigger venue in the late Seventies, plans were made to demolish the building and replace it with an imposing eight-storey hotel. Thankfully, and after much protest from locals, the city council changed its mind. Since its successful transformation from courthouse to debate centre in 1982, De Balie has become the meeting point for debates, lectures and performances on all things cultural, social and political. When De Balie started screening film in the late ’90s, it was only logical that the programme would focus

on films with a decidedly political and/or social bent, and independent films without distribution would often find a safe haven here. Since 2012 De Balie, in collaboration with Rialto, also has a regular film programme, with an emphasis on documentaries and committed fiction films. Its screening room, which seats 54, is a small one – not the smallest, mind you; that honour belongs to Filmhuis Cavia (Van Hallstraat 52-I). Still, it has proven to be an easy stepping-stone for film festivals, with the headquarters of International Documentary Film Festival Amsterdam formerly residing here, as well as those of Cinekid. Not surprisingly, De Balie proves to be strongest in its speciality programming. In March there will be the special screening of Man of Hope

(Andrzej Wajda, 2013) about Lech Walesa, Nobel Peace Prize Winner and the founder of Poland’s Solidarity Movement. On 22 and 23 March, visit Best of IDFA on Tour, with screenings of Those Who Feel the Fire Burning (Morgan Knibbe, NL), Something Better to Come (Hanna Polak, DK/ PL) and Keep On Keepin’ On (Alan Hicks, USA), a feel-good documentary about jazz legend Clark Terry. For a real treat, visit any of the films in the Cinema During Lent series, programmed and introduced (in Dutch) by writer and poet Willem Jan Otten. Each of the films selected offers a contemplation on forgiveness and the unforgivable, from Robert Bresson’s Pickpocket (3 March) and Des Hommes et des Dieux by Xavier Beauvois (10 March) to Terrence Malick’s The Tree of Life (31 March).

highlight Our must-see film pick this issue…

Imagine Film Festival

or the Chinese, 2015 may be the year of the goat, but, as far as the 31st edition of the Imagine Film Festival – the festival for all things cinematically fantastic – is concerned, it’s the year of the robot. At the time of writing, not that much was known about the programme, but with a title like We Love Robots it probably won’t be about the psychopathic killer kind, like HAL 9000 (2001: A Space Odyssey) or the T-800/T-1000 (Terminator, Terminator 2). Female AI Ava (ex-ballerina Alicia Vikander) certainly seems both more human and humane than her cuckoo creator (Oscar Isaac) in Ex Machina, the directing debut of Alex Garland –regular screenwriter for Danny Boyle (The Beach, 28 Days Later, Sunshine). But will employee Caleb (Domhnall Gleeson) follow his heart or his superior? Ex Machina will be the opening film of the festival (national release: 30 April). The We Love Robots programme will also include lectures, demonstrations and a masterclass in robot design. There will also be a handful of smaller speciality programmes. The Hong Kong Film Panorama will be screening three martial-arts classics from the 1980s. Imagine NL focuses on Dutch fantastical film and there will be a special homage to late Swiss conceptual artist HR Giger, renowned for his work on Alien (he designed the monster and the alien spaceship), Species and Jodorowsky’s Dune (which was never completed). Of course, there also will be the (in)famous Night of Terror, where four hardcore (and usually hilariously bad) horror films will be screened through the night – flinging popcorn (and obscenities) at the screen is pretty much obligatory. 8-18 April EYE, IJpromenade 1 www.imaginefilmfestival.nl

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nightlife essentials HANNI EL KHATIB This bluesy Californian singer-songwriter can never quite escape comparisons with The Black Keys. Not that that’s such a bad situation to be in – after all, it took the ’Keys near enough a decade to shake off The White Stripes comparisons and they’re doing fine. At least Khatib doesn’t seem too troubled, going so far as to collaborate with Dan Auerbach, and his latest bluesrock album, Moonlight, may be his most accessible yet. Thursday 19 March Melkweg Lijnbaansgracht 234A www.melkweg.nl

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ANTIGONE Acclaimed French actress Juliette Binoche plays Sophocles’ Antigone, in a production by the Barbican in London and directed by Toneelgroep Amsterdam’s Ivo van Hove. Fresh from a month-long stint in the British capital, this take on the tragic power struggle tale was penned by TS Eliot Prize-winning poet Anne Carson, so it’s a production of the highest quality in every respect. The performance is in English with Dutch surtitles.

Wednesday 15-Saturday 18 April Stadsschouwburg Leidseplein 26 www.stadsschouwburgamsterdam.nl

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UNDERWORLD LIVE Classic stuff! One of England’s very first big dance acts, Underworld plays its classic and groundbreaking album Dubnobasswithmyheadman live, to mark the 20th anniversary of its release. ’It’s a testament to its enduring appeal,’ said the UK’s Guardian of the recent gig in London, ’that not one member of the audience appears to contemplate sitting down all night.’ Tuesday 24 & Wednesday 25 March Paradiso, Weteringschans 6-8 www.paradiso.nl

Wednesday 8-Sunday 12 April Muziekgebouw aan ’t IJ Piet Heinkade 1 www.muziekgebouw.nl

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WORLD MINIMAL MUSIC FESTIVAL Expect five days of crystal-clear music, DJs, film presentations and lectures/ debates as the Muziekgebouw’s homage to minimal music returns. Hypnotic, repetitive and breathtaking: minimal music has been entrancing listeners with deceptively simple means since the ’60s, when composers such as Philip Glass, Steve Reich and Terry Riley tried to find new ways of musical expression, rebelling against the experimental 12-tone music that was perceived as overly sophisticated and complicated. This year’s special appearance is by none other than American minimal pioneer Terry Riley, with a world premiere of a new composition and plenty of his other works on the programme.

RONI SIZE REPRAZENT LIVE Back in 1997, drum’n’bass was always believed to be percussive dance music at super-human tempos. Yet, Roni Size’s band Reprazent performed their songs live. Live, high-speed break-beat drumming – it was simply unheard of. Grab your chance to relive the past with underground hits like ‘Heroes’ and ‘Share The Fall’ performed live on stage with an actual drum kit. Wait for the bassline to drop in ’Brown Paper Bag', and hit the dance gloor – if you haven’t all ready...’ Saturday 18 April Melkweg Lijnbaansgracht 234A www.melkweg.nl

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AWAKENINGS EASTER SPECIAL An institution in the Netherlands, Awakenings is behind some of the country’s most legendary techno events and it’s back to help you kick-start your Easter. Major names including Joris Voorn, Elias Mazian, Tini, The Martinez Brothers and Sven Väth will all be taking to the decks during this ten-hour marathon. And if you’re hungry for more, Awakenings stays in town for events on the three following nights. Thursday 2 April Gashouder Amsterdam Westergasfabriek www.awakenings.nl

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kopje of credit

FIRST PART UP CLOSE

The IamExpat Fair is a truly international event designed to connect and support the expat community in the Netherlands. Discover businesses in the fields of Career, Education, Housing, Expat Services, Family & Kids, Health & Leisure Attend workshops and presentations Benefit from special offers Connect with other internationals Free tickets available at www.IamExpatFair.nl SPONSORED BY

mar & apr 2015

PART III

EAT DRINK CHIC ‘I’VE LIVED HERE FOR YEARS, AND A LOT HAS CHANGED DURING THAT TIME. THE DIVERSITY OF PEOPLE IN THIS NEIGHBOURHOOD IS VERY INTERESTING. TRADITIONALLY, DIFFERENT KINDS OF PEOPLE LIVE NEAR EACH OTHER – ALTHOUGH THE AREA IS GETTING RICHER AND RICHER…’

Long-time local Bert Kraker on the regenerated Hallenkwartier.

30 37 38 40 42 44 45

NEIGHBOURHOOD WATCH: HALLENKWARTIER COLUMN EATING OUT ON THE MENU PRETTY THINGS SNEAKER FREAKS WHAT’S IN STORE

NEVEL Ricardo van Ede, the talented and tattooed chef formerly of the Canal Ring’s swanky Odeon restaurant, has a new home. At Nebula (formerly Nevy) on Westerdoksdijk, he will perfect his ‘rustic-chic’ kitchen philosophy. A mostly traditional and fuss-free cook, Van Ede adds a touch of sophistication to his dishes – think: artichoke with almond hummus, rillette of wild goose or plaice with chestnut. Enjoy it all in appropriately industrial-chic surroundings (courtesy of ‘It’ architects Concrete), with a fine view of the River IJ. Westerdoksdijk 40 http://nevelamsterdam.nl

PART III EAT, DRINK & CHIC

Neighbourhood watch

DE HALLENKWARTIER

YARA JIMMINK, 24 store manager The Darling

‘The Hallenkwartier is such a creative neighbourhood, and these days it attracts lots of hip young people. I like the vibe here. I often go to the FilmHallen after work – sometimes a few times a week. I just can’t get enough of it. The nearby Ten Katemarkt is one of my other favourite spots in this upand-coming area of Amsterdam.’

neighbourhood watch

A spectacular restoration is the resuscitated heart of a fast-regenerating neighbourhood, in Amsterdam’s Oud-West. text Mark Smith photos Elisah Jacobs map Monique Wijbrands/SaltyStock

The jewel in the crown

s countless style bloggers have already observed, De Hallen – with its covered food market to rival those of London and Madrid, gorgeous boutique hotel and array of jam-packed restaurants – is a ‘hotspot’ if ever there was one. It’s an especially appropriate term when you consider the fiery history of this part of Amsterdam. In 1613, the exact midpoint of the city’s Golden Age reinvention, the marshes at Kwakerspoel became the designated zone for ‘flammable industry’. Noisy sawmills flourished here, at a safe remove from the residential pomp of the Canal Belt, until the late 19th century. Once cheap foreign timber flooded the market, however, the scenic mills and surrounding fairways became little more than a diversion for boat-owners. Pleasure gardens and tea palaces sprang up to cater to the whims of the day-tripping leisure class, but in 1896 the area was earmarked for a more pressing concern: where to put Amsterdam’s mushrooming labour force. The mills were demolished and the bricks used to build the one-storey workshops of the Bellamystraat, some of which remain operational today. Simple, four-floor terraced

houses with steep staircases were thrown up in order to accommodate the maximum number of workers. Although swathes of this housing stock eventually fell into disrepair and had to be replaced (see the 1970s blocks around the arterial Kinkerstraat) most of it still stands, and has aged handsomely. The jewel in the crown of this rapid but respectable revamp was the construction, in phases between 1901 and 1928, of a monumental depot for the maintenance of the city’s first electric trams. THE THIRD WAY With its spectacular glass roofs and rafters by the French engineer Jean-Barthélémy Polonceau, the Westelijke Tramremise was less simple shed, more triumph of 20th-century engineering. Its monumental façades hid a cloistered inner world that comprised wood and metal workshops, a laundry, administrative offices and giant turntables that rotated trams with the greatest of ease. By the end of the century, however, such facilities had become outmoded, and when the last of the GVB engineers turned out the lights in 1996, there began a protracted period of collective indecision.

neighbourhood watch

PART III EAT, DRINK & CHIC

‘The sleeping Kinker-Bellamy village has become the bustling De Hallenkwartier… ’ Mr Jaap Jamin, writing to Het Parool newspaper.

Once the buildings were awarded national monument status in 1999, demolition was out of the question. Yet for a long time no one seemed capable of tabling a proposal for renovation that could generate both neighbourhood approval and the requisite funds. Television personality Harry de Winter tried and failed to turn the place into a giant music venue. Plans for a chain-store-heavy shopping galleria were also thwarted. Apart from the pigeons who’d colonised its lofty rafters, for a long time the only inhabitants of the Tramremise were squatters, who turned Hall 3 into a closely-guarded party venue with a tram carriage as its bar. They left voluntarily in 2012, once a satisfactory plan for renovation had been devised – a third-way initiative with the stated aim of ‘connecting the needs and desires of the neighbourhood but also bringing a metropolitan air’. Fast-forward three years, and De Hallen has been meticulously restored to its former glory. The light-flooded Hannie Dankbaarpassage (named after the Oud-West pacifist) connects the Bilderdijkkade with the long-standing Ten Kate market, serving as a rain-or-shine showcase for a mixed-use development that incorporates a library, a day-care centre, a bike workshop and the biggest independent cinema complex in the Netherlands, FilmHallen (check out the Parisien room, decked out in salvaged art-deco panels). Every weekend, crafty types throng the Local Goods market here. Adjacent to FilmHallen – and adjoining the cavernous new restaurant Meat-West, is the FoodHallen (see left). Yossi Eliyahoo (see page 23), the force behind A-list Amsterdam restaurants MOMO and Izakaya, explains the phenomenal appeal of this foodie cornucopia: ‘Every major city needs a good food market. It

FOODHALLEN/ MEAT WEST Inspired by the indoor food markets of Copenhagen, London and Madrid, De Hallen’s FoodHallen attracts locals and tourists of every age and persuasion. With 20 food stands to choose from, a little indecision will surely be on the menu. Our advice? Start with a sizeable G&T from the gin bar, accompanied by truffle bitterballen from De Ballenbar, which specialises in tarted-up versions of the spherical Dutch staple. Also recommended are The Rough Kitchen’s ‘hot pigs’, Shirkan’s Indian tandoori lamb wraps, Viêt View’s rice-paper rolls and Petit Gâteau’s yuzu meringue tarts. And maybe a bigger belt? Next door, the sit-down restaurant MeatWest is cavernous, and defiantly carnivorous.

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Bellamyplein 51 www.foodhallen.nl www.meatwest.nl

HOTEL DE HALLEN Andre van Stigt, whose architecture firm renovated the entire De Hallen complex, took a personal interest in the conversion of the easternmost tram hall into a boutique hotel. A light-flooded lobby bridges the past with the present –, while the delightful heritage building’s original glass ceiling, exposed brickwork and concrete flooring are retained for a look that’s entirely in keeping with the unflashy spirit of the ’hood.

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Bellamyplein 47 www.hoteldehallen.com

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ROTISSERIE

BERRY

Given the giveaway name and the proud cockerel above the door, there can be no prizes for guessing the main culinary event at this new Oud-West eatery. Crisp-skinned rotisserie chicken is the signature dish, of course, but barbeque ribs and some of the city’s best burgers are on offer too. Raw brick and wood are ubiquitous, but Rotisserie goes the extra mile into hipster self-parody by actually describing itself as ‘Brooklynese’.

Berry Amsterdam’s sunbleached furniture has been salvaged from all over the place, and the absence of WiFi is trumpeted as something of a feature – the idea being that Amsterdam’s legions of smartphone junkies will be happier if they only drag themselves away from their beeping devices for ten minutes daily. On the menu, it’s simple Dutch sandwiches and – as the name above the door implies – ruby-red juices.

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De Clerqstraat 81 www.rotisserieamsterdam.nl

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Bilderdijkkade 27 www.berryamsterdam.nl

neighbourhood watch

PART III EAT, DRINK & CHIC

JUTKA EN RISKA

DISCOVER YOUR AMSTERDAM

Whereas the vintage troves of the Nine Streets are under pressure to raise prices in order to summon the rents needed to stay put, Amsterdam’s savviest shoppers have long had this address in their black books. Mixing quirky vintage pieces with the work of up-and-coming local designers and a healthy dose of cheap-and-cheerful accessories, the Volkerts sisters, whose first names are above the door here, know how to keep the shopping experience fresh.

IAMSTERDAM.COM/24H

WES T 14-15 MARCH 12:00-12:00

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Bilderdijkstraat 194 www.jutkaenriska.nl

24H WEST BELLY-BABY Having shaken off the Wild West reputation it acquired during the crime-ridden 1970s, the Oud-West has become hugely popular with those looking to start a family in Amsterdam. JThe picturesque Bosboom Toussaintstraat is affectionately known as ‘the delivery room’ on account of its crop of children-orientated shops and services. The recently birthed maternity-wear trove Belly-Baby stocks stylish bumpwear from the likes of labels Love2Wait and Queen Mum Bosboom Toussaintstraat 22 www.belly-b.nl

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Throughout 2015, the 24H programme explores every corner of Amsterdam, with the purpose of presenting everything a district has to offer in just 24 hours. Whether you’ve lived in Amsterdam for years or are just visiting, you’re sure to discover something new and surprising amid a programme that includes tales of Somali piracy from the welltravelled staff of the Western Port’s Seamen’s centre, a cabaret masterclass from local legend Frank Sanders and an urban art walk from the nonprofit organisation Glamorous Outcasts. Naturally, foodies are well catered for. There’s a demonstration from champion coffee roaster José Mollura and even a lecture about forgotten vegetables. 14 & 15 March www.iamsterdam.com

ZEVENLANDENHUIZEN From Flaubert’s heroine Madame Bovary who mooned over the novels of Walter Scott, to the modernist primitivism of painter Paul Gaugin: much of the art produced in the second half of the 19th century can be characterised by a Romantic yearning for the exotic and the faraway. On the swanky, parkside Roemer Visscherstraat in the Oud-West, the trend is made manifest by this row of seven houses designed by the celebrated Tjeerd Kuipers. Commissioned by the banker-turned-politician Sam van Eeghen, each house represents an affectionate caricature of the building style from another European country, including Russia and Germany. Consider it an architectural travelogue. Roemer Visscherstraat

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> owner BD Kraker Antiquair

‘I’ve lived here for years, and a lot has changed during. The diversity of people in this neighbourhood is very interesting. Traditionally, different kinds of people live near each other, although the area is getting richer and richer.’

DANIQUE HOOFWIJK, 25 editor-in-chief Girlscene.nl

‘De Hallen is the most inspiring place to be. Luckily my office is in here so I can enjoy it every day of the week. The industrial look and feeling is beautiful, and I love the light flooding through the enormous windows.’

BERT KRAKER, 36

serves as an inspiration for the local culinary scene.’ Eliyahoo has put his money where his mouth is: his Shirkhan stall serves up Mumbai-style street food amid the bitterballen and burgers: ‘Our aim is to truly spice up the local food culture,’ he says. Amid the groans of gastro pleasure there are grumblings. Some residents see the public functions of De Hallen – which include workshops for training apprentices in the maintenance of monumental buildings – as little more than window dressing for a bourgeois playground. In a recent University of Amsterdam study ‘The Shifting Cityscape of Amsterdam’, geographer Joris Tieleman identified this pocket of the Oud-West as a property price hotspot, noting that the Kostverlorenvaart canal ‘presents some kind of barrier for the gentrifying population’. The prevailing mood, though, is best illustrated by a recent letter to Het Parool newspaper by Mr Jaap Jamin, 40-year resident of Ten Katemarkt. After noting that more bicycle provision is desperately required, he writes: ‘The sleeping Kinker-Bellamy village has become the bustling De Hallenkwartier. I regularly see residents guiding their guests proudly through the building, enjoying the beauty of the renovation. In my local supermarket I now hear English, Spanish, English and Italian voices. This is the international city of Amsterdam. And it’s delicious.’

TER BRUGGE The definition of ‘guilty pleasure’ has to be sipping a potent glass of chilled La Chouffe on the terrace of this delightful brown café while watching the Lycra-clad exertions in the massive David Lloyd gym across the road. The arterial Overtoom on which both institutions stand was once a footpath connecting Amsterdam with the town of Sloten. Nowadays it’s the perfect place to socialise after a meander around the nearby Vondelpark. The westernmost end of the road is particularly fascinating – watch the bridge rise and fall to accommodate waterborne traffic, or grab a soused bite from the herring stand opposite Ter Brugge.

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Overtoom 578 www.cafeterbrugge.nl

VISITOR INFORMATION

mar & apr 2015

VISITOR INFORMATION

Find u s @ iamst erda .com m

I amsterdam Visitor Centres are your one-stop shops for everything you need to know about the city. THE AMSTERDAM & REGION DAY TICKET This ticket entitles you to unlimited travel in Amsterdam and the surrounding region – day and night – on bus, tram and metro for 24 hours. Within the region are great tourist attractions including historic Haarlem, the fortified towns and castles of the fortress stretch, historical country estates along the River Vecht, and the peaceful Amstel River countryside – and of course, your journey to and from Amsterdam Airport Schiphol. A ticket costs just €13.50 and can be purchased from the I amsterdam Visitor Centres or from GVB, EBS and Connexxion ticket points.

I AMSTERDAM VISITOR CENTRES FOR INFORMATION AND TO BOOK EXCURSIONS, VISIT ONE OF THE VISITOR INFORMATION CENTRES IN AMSTERDAM: Tel: +31 (0)20 702 6000 Open Mon-Fri 09.00-17.00 info@iamsterdam.com www.iamsterdam.com http://twitter.com/Iamsterdam I AMSTERDAM VISITOR CENTRE CENTRAL STATION* Stationsplein 10 (across from Central Station) Open Mon-Sat 09.00-17.00; Sun 09.00-16.00 *Last Minute Ticket Shop

LAST MINUTE TICKET SHOPS Enjoy discounted theatre tickets on the day of performance. Check the Last Minute Ticket Shop screens and buy tickets at the following locations for same-day performances:

LATE REMBRANDT Beat the queues. Buy your tickets for the Rijksmuseum’s blockbuster Late Rembrandt exhibition at the I amsterdam Visitor Centres.

REMBRANDT, SELF-PORTRAIT WITH TWO CIRCLES, 1665-1669

I AMSTERDAM VISITOR CENTRE SCHIPHOL AIRPORT Schiphol Airport, Arrivals 2 at Schiphol Plaza Open daily 07.00-22.00

I AMSTERDAM VISITOR CENTRE CENTRAL STATION Stationsplein 10 (across from Central Station) Open Mon-Sat 09.00-17.00; Sun 09.00-16.00 STADSSCHOUWBURG AMSTERDAM Leidseplein 26 Open Mon-Sat 12.00-18.00 AMSTERDAM PUBLIC LIBRARY (OBA) Oosterdokskade 143 Open Mon-Fri 10.00-19.30; Sat & Sun 10.00-18.00 www.lastminuteticketshop.nl

PART III

EAT, DRINK & CHIC

When in Amsterdam…

After 18 years here, native New Yorker Lauren Comiteau is still working out how to ‘go Dutch’.

THE KIDS ARE ALL RIGHT

M Lauren Comiteau is a journalist and writer who has been covering the Netherlands for TIME magazine, CBS Radio and others since 1996. She lives in Amsterdam with her two daughters.

‘GET TO WHERE YOU’RE GOING EARLY, AS THE CHILDREN’S MARKETS ESPECIALLY CLOSE UP BY EARLY AFTERNOON.’

any Queen’s Days past, years before the 2014 royal switch to King’s Day, I found myself haggling with a sixyear-old over a shabby deck of last century’s SpongeBob SquarePants cards. It wasn’t pretty. As I tried to lose my shame-faced self among the Vondelpark’s hordes, I wondered if it was time to return Stateside, where it wasn’t local custom to conduct such high-level negotiations with a grade-schooler. But these pint-sized entrepreneurs who will converge on the city’s parks, streets and squares this 27 April like a reverse Occupy Wall Street action are simply following in the long and illustrious tradition of their merchantminded ancestors. Back in the day, during the Golden Age, the Dutch ruled the world with their economic prowess and really big ships. These are the guys who, if they didn’t exactly invent the stock market, certainly have one of the world’s oldest modern securities exchanges and whose Dutch East India Company (founded 1602) was the first public corporation financed by shares. Today, with a population of only about 17 million, the Netherlands ranks among the top ten trading nations in the world. It makes sense to start ’em young. I support teaching kids the value of a euro (even when it’s falling), and getting rid of the old to make way for the new is a lesson I can still learn. While I’ve never been good with

price negotiations – I bought my Amsterdam home at 5 per cent over the asking price, but did manage to get the curtains thrown in – my friend’s son manages to rake in hundreds of euros annually from his castoff Donald Duck comics and unloved electronics. We’re that family who leaves piles of unsold stuff by a tree for late-day picking, no doubt because we’re late out of the gate for the trading frenzy. And that’s the trick: get to where you’re going early – whether you’re a buyer or a seller – as the children’s markets especially close up by early afternoon. The Vondelpark is famed for it’s kids-only vrijmarkt (or free market, which opens at 9am), where you’ll also be treated to homebaked royal-themed goodies, young buskers putting their violin lessons to good use and DIY guessing games. Other centrally located junior hotspots – such as the markets in and around the Amstelveld, Frederiksplein, Leliegracht and Sarphatipark – offer a similar vibe on less acreage. And remember: the haggling is almost always good-natured, with princely courtesy part and parcel of the retail revelry. Come to think of it, my six-year-old bartering mate smiled as she handed me my SpongeBob SquarePants deck and bid me a friendly farewell. At least one of us was happy. See page 20 for more on King’s Day.

PART III EAT, DRINK & CHIC

EATING OUT

Our top dining options, from firm favourites to precocious newcomers.

text Karin Engelbrecht

EDDY SPAGHETTI

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Krugerplein 23 www.eddyspaghetti.nl

NEW

he team from Oost favourites De Biertuin, Bar Bukowski and Smokin’ Barrels are behind this perpetually packed new pasta bar and, as expected, they’ve nailed exactly what the neighbourhood needed. This family-friendly restaurant offers half a dozen pasta dishes, as well as gluten-free options and spaghetti with tomato sauce and Parmesan (€6.50) for the bambinos. There’s also an extensive list of gin, vermouth and Prosecco-based cocktails (we recommend Eddy’s Classic [€8], made with V2C Dutch Dry Gin – known for its herbal notes of bay and St John’s wort – and Fever Tree tonic, served in a balloon glass with a lemon and liquorice-root garnish). We like the bruschetta (€6.75), which has just the right balance of meaty mushrooms and creamy melted mozzarella, but the star of the show is undoubtedly the gnocchi with braised rabbit, roasted garlic, giant green olives and Portobello mushrooms (€14.50). The sauce – full-flavoured but not too rich or gamey – remains riveting from first to final bite, and the crunchy walnut-thyme pangrattato perfectly contrasts with the velvety dumplings. The small space is stylish yet unfussy, with wrap-around windows, herringbone wooden floors, a white marble bar and bright green walls, and the friendly service matches the easy vibe. If anyone doubted Oost is on the up and up, this new neighbourhood hero helps prove them wrong.

eating out

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39 trendy CT COFFEE & COCONUTS Set in a former cinema with soaring ceilings, the interior of this handsome hotspot is all beachy beiges and pebble greys. The local laptop set hunch over hanging tables, while De Pijp’s young hipsters kick back on bean bags. Unsurprisingly, there’s coffee and a number of coconut-themed offerings on the menu – think: coconut pancakes, a coconut burger and coconut juice (served in a coconut, of course) – but there are also plenty of other inducements to stop by for breakfast, lunch or dinner.

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Ceintuurbaan 282-284 www.ctamsterdam.nl

critic’s choice RIJKS®

ike the Dutch Masters that line the walls of the adjacent museum, this stylish new restaurant tells the story of the Netherlands by taking local ingredients and influences from far and wide and translating them into (edible) art. Passionate about Slow Food and the flavours that have influenced Dutch cuisine through the centuries, the team of superstar chefs certainly impresses. A zesty starter of mackerel tartare with ponzu, sesame, nasturtium leaf and wild, puffed rice was a tribute to the North Sea; smoky spit-roasted celeriac root with creamy Dutch messeklever cheese and almond dust a celebration of the Dutch polder landscape.

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Museumstraat 2 www.rijksrestaurant.nl

classic SINNE

quick & simple FOODMARKT AMSTERDAM Comestibles contrast with cranes at this new 2,600m2 supermarket concept, set in a former factory in Noord. The focus is on products from local suppliers, with an extensive fresh produce section). There’s also a butcher, an in-house bakery – and free parking.

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Gedempt Hamerkanaal 223 http://hallo.jumbo.com/foodmarkt

The biggest surprise of the 2015 Netherlands’ Michelin star rating announcement was the reveal that Restaurant Sinne had received a star – even the restaurant tweeted that it was ‘flabbergasted’. Yet this stalwart is truly deserving. Highlights from a recent meal include delicate veal sweetbreads with poached pear balls, parsnip crisps and shiitakes, served with a sticky star anise-scented jus, and ‘Sinne’s Snickers’, a highbrow play on the lowbrow bar with chocolate ganache, nougat crème, salted caramel ice cream and a peanut cookie crunch. The ambiance is classy without being too buttoned-up, and at €35 for three courses, it’s refreshing that Amsterdam finally has an affordable Michelin-starred option.

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Ceintuurbaan 342 www.restaurantsinne.nl

PART III EAT, DRINK & CHIC

ON THE MENU

Three of a kind to suit every taste. text Karin Engelbrecht

juice bars

guilty pleasures

bar-restaurants

LITE/DARK

PETIT GATEAU

VAN RIJN

Fresh fruit and antioxidant-rich chocolate form the ‘lite’ and ‘dark’ cornerstones of this health concept, with over 20 fruit and veggie shakes, four raw chocolate energy shakes and power shots including wheatgrass. Don’t miss the veggie energy shake with spinach, avocado, apple, lemon and basil (from €4), a citrusy-smooth way to get your five a day.

After training at the prestigious L’Ecole de Boulangerie et de Patisserie de Paris and running a successful pastry shop in the French capital, Chef-Patissier Meike Schaling brought her moreish ‘Miniminis’ to Amsterdam. The tiny crisp-shelled tarts come in a changing assortment of flavours such as salted caramel, apricot-pistachio, bacon-leek and our favourite, yuzu meringue.

Illuminated reproductions of Rembrandt’s work give this bar-restaurant a sense of place, while mushroomleather seating encourages lingering. The open kitchen is a pristine oasis of Delft blue tiles, where Chef Jeroen Romanesko cooks up modern dishes, such as sous vide salmon with a salad of quinoa, beetroot and grilled mushrooms (€14).

Utrechtsestraat 22/Zeedijk 59A www.litedark.nl

THE COLD PRESSED JUICERY This chic corner shop boasts the most decadent smoothie we’ve tried – with banana, shredded coconut, nut-caramel sauce and vanilla – aptly named ‘The Sinner’ (from €5.50), one of nine on offer. Of the ten cold-pressed juices, we found ‘The Pro’ to have an uplifting anise taste. There are also three power shots and four ‘healing teas’. Willemsparkweg 8 www.thecoldpressedjuicery.com

Haarlemmerstraat 80 www.petitgateau.nl

Rembrandtplein 17 www.vanrijnamsterdam.nl

VAN NESS CUPCAKES

MATA HARI

This centrally located bakery, which was awarded a Tripadvisor Certificate of Excellence in 2014, remains popular with locals and tourists. Free of preservatives and artificial flavours, the menu of handcrafted cupcakes includes ‘Classics’, such as chocolate and red velvet, and ‘Monthly Specials’ like chocolate lava, and caramel apple (from €2.75).

Once an eponymous gambling hall of ill repute, this vintage-style bar is the perfect place to watch the daily theatre that is the Red Light District over Dutch bar snack bitterballen and beer (Erdinger Weiss, De Koninck, La Chouffe and Zatte by Brouwerij ’t IJ are on tap). Or head up the stunning central staircase for a Med-led meal overlooking the 14th-century canal.

Spuistraat 232 www.vannesscupcake.com

Oudezijds Achterburgwal 22 www.matahari-amsterdam.nl

DR. BLEND

TOUT PATISSERIE

DE PLANTAGE

Outfitted with a stylish blackboard, shelves of super foods, cool branding and a communal workbench table, Dr. Blend is every bit the hipster’s health shop. Service is refreshingly friendly, and with 18 smoothies, six super juices and five mixed juices – all organic – you’ll be glad to try-before-you-buy.

This lovely bakery in leafy Riverienbuurt is perhaps most famous for its big, bold, fresh-flavoured macarons. There are some two dozen varieties, including fennel-green apple, rose-lychee and chocolate-lavender, as well as adventurous monthly flavours such as wasabi-macadamia nut.

Herenstraat 23 www.drblend.nl

Maasstraat 105 http://toutpatisserie.nl

Sip your shiraz in the stunning 19th-century conservatory, which faces the recently renovated Artis square, or watch the adjacent zoo’s grassland birds and flamingos from the leafy terrace on sunny days. Chef Koen van Brunschot, formerly of Hotel de Goudfazant, offers a Mediterranean-inspired menu. Plantage Kerklaan 36 http://caferestaurantdeplantage.nl

on the menu

SOMETHING’S BREWING Tailor-made tipples take craft beers to the next level.

ow that craft brewers are beating out the big beer brands, we’re not only seeing more interesting beer lists all over Amsterdam, but also much more customisation. At Dutch chocolate pioneer Kees Raat’s magnificent Metropolitan Deli, there’s now a cacao beer, specially made by nearby De Prael brewery. The Bukowski, a citrusy Belgian ale, was developed for Bar Bukowski by Brouwerij ’t IJ, while IPA Biertuig was developed by Brouwerij Emelisse for De Biertuin. Or try Oedipus Brewery’s DODO, a California Common with caramelmalt notes, tailor-made for CT Coffee & Coconuts (see page 39). Craft breweries are also eager to

extend their offerings beyond beer. In addition to their eight housebrewed beers, Brouwerij Troost now offers house-made lemonade and ginger ale – and they’re working on a gin, too. METROPOLITAN DELI Warmoesstraat 135 www.metropolitandeli.nl BAR BUKOWSKI Oosterpark 10 www.barbukowski.nl DE BIERTUIN Linnaeusstraat 29 www.debiertuin.nl BROUWERIJ TROOST Cornelis Troostplein 21 www.brouwerijtroost.nl

pretty things

PART III EAT, DRINK & CHIC

PRETTY THINGS Purses at the ready: these tempting stores will have you reaching for your credit card. text Elisah Jacobs

THE DARLING

NEW IN TOWN

Like a candy store for grown-ups, everything in this charming boutique is irresistibly delicious – just as the name suggests. Peruse the racks for vintage gems, The Darling’s own fashion label and carefully curated brands. In addition to fancy fashion, The Darling also stocks lifestyle products such as crockery, vases, the ubiquitous mason-jar drinking glasses, ‘Little Darling’ clothing for the wee ones and beautiful illustrations by local artist Merel Corduwener. As well as the established store in the charming Nine Streets – where you can shop for clothes, drink tea

and eat cupcakes – The Darling recently opened up a second shop at the coolest spot in town: former tram depot De Hallen in the west of the city (see pages 30-35 for more great shopping and dining options in this up-and-coming micro-’hood). Settling on the Hannie Dankbaarpassage, The Darling mark 2 is surrounded by like-minded young and creative enterprises: visit the neighbours to shop for antique furniture, Moroccan argan oil, felt fashion and more.

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Hannie Dankbaarpassage 19 Runstraat 4 https://thedarlingamsterdam.nl

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43 fashion library

LENA AMSTERDAM A library where you can borrow clothes instead of books? That’s our kind of learning. LENA is a fashionable initiative from three sisters from the south of the Netherlands plus a good friend, who have an innovative take on today’s fashion world. A reaction to the mass production and waste implicit in the rapid-cycling industry, at Amsterdam’s first fashion library you can borrow a little black dress – or a great clutch and a fancy pair of heels to complete your ensemble. It’s all very simple: with a monthly subscription (ranging from €19.95 to €49.95) you can borrow a limited amount of fashion and accessories. It’s not only good for your wallet (less to spend) and your wardrobe (no more boring clothes) but also for the environment (less fashion to throw away). If you really like your borrowed dress you can even buy it with discount. Genius!

jewellery GILIAN ORIGINALS From art historian to owner of a jewellery label: Gilian Sluiter is a serious double threat. Having worked for years at a gallery in the famous Spiegelkwartier near the Rijksmuseum, Sluiter’s dream of designing jewellery became bigger and bigger. Her own label, Gilian Originals, features fair-trade necklaces, earrings and bracelets made of 14- or 24-carat gold, sterling silver or with semi-precious stones. Each piece has its own symbolic meaning and comes with a bohemian touch: bold colours, fringing and pendants give that ultimate Ibiza vibe. The collection varies regularly so you’ll never get bored – or leave empty handed. Having never lost her passion for art, you’ll find Sluiter’s jewellery shop next to the art gallery where she used to work – a unique hidden gem in the charming Spiegelkwartier. programme. Nieuwe Spiegelstraat 46 www.gilianoriginals.nl

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Westerstraat 174 www.lena-library.com

designer discount SALON HELEEN HÜLSMANN Have a weakness for designer fashion? Do your wallet a favour and check out Salon Heleen Hülsmann for pre-owned, high-end togs at just a little over highstreet prices. Shop here for Lanvin dresses, Prada bags, Christian Louboutin heels, Burberry trench coats and Tom Ford sunglasses at vast discounts. Hurry to the online store or book an appointment at her posh boutique in Amsterdam’s swanky Oud-Zuid to lock down your new outfit. And there’s no chance of looking like an Eighties throwback, as Salon Heleen Hülsmann doesn’t sell vintage fashion (items older than 25 years); everything comes from the latest collections (not more than three years old). We think this might just be the best hidden gem in town...

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De Lairessestraat 13B www.salonheleenhulsmann.nl

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sneaker freaky

PART III EAT, DRINK & CHIC

Amsterdam gets sneaker freaky

Trainer obsessives – passionate collectors who happily queue overnight for the sneaker ‘holy grail’ – are well served by the city’s abundance of specialised shops. text Janna Reinsma

290 SQUARE METERS A (literally) underground department store of all things hip. Houtkopersdwarsstraat 3 https://290sqm.com

CONCRETE

Sneakers, quirky next-level urban clothing and changing exhibitions. Spuistraat 250 http://concrete.nl

NO BOYS ALLOWED

Sneakers in often difficult-to-get women’s sizes. Prinsenstraat 16 http://noboysallowed.nl

OQIUM

Specialists in basketball sneakers with a case of collector’s items. Nieuwezijds Voorburgwal 262 www.oqium.nl

PATTA

One of Amsterdam’s oldest sneaker shops, a must-visit Zeedijk 67 www.patta.nl

SNEAKERDISTRICT

Casual sneakers, especially runners, for the street more than the sports field. Rozengracht 21 https://sneakerdistrict.com

n a freezing Saturday morning, hordes of hoodie-clad boys and a single girl huddle together in silent anticipation on the Damrak. They’re waiting for a sign of life from sneaker store Oqium. At 9am they can finally get what they came for: the coveted petrol-blue Nike Air Jordan Retro 2 x Just Don, for €250 per pair. Oqium has just 25 pairs (worldwide, there are a mere 800). Later that night, a pair pops up on Marktplaats (the Dutch eBay). For €1,200. ONE TO ROCK, ONE TO STOCK In the world of sneaker freaks, that was not an unusual Saturday morning. Oqium saleswoman Chanica Kist (24) has about 450 pairs of shoes at home, but still spends up to four hours a day looking for the shoes missing from her collection. ‘In eight years, I’ve never seen them in my size,’ she says, sighing. Sneaker heads call this the Holy Grail: that elusive pair that you might never find. It is these shoes, sold in limited edition and sometimes only in specific countries or continents, that are most highly sought after. They pop up sporadically on eBay – sometimes with four zeros in the price. American business magazine Forbes estimates that the annual eBay sneaker business accounts for $200 million. The sneaker freaks lucky enough to find their Holy Grails keep them neatly in the original box. Sunlight yellows the rubber of the soles and makes it porous. Which is why some collectors buy two pairs of

the same shoe: one to rock, one to stock. While it’s hard to imagine the streets of Amsterdam sans sneakers, that wasn’t always the case. Formerly, sneakers were worn mainly by what Tim Sabajo (39) of sneaker shop Patta calls ‘the riff raff ’ calls. ‘In the ’80s, the criminals on the Leidseplein wore Nike, New Balance – you name it.’ After the Amsterdam pimps came the hiphop fans. SNEAKER SUBCULTURES Sports shop Smit-Cruyff on the Elandsgracht was way ahead of its time when it launched major brands like Nike and Adidas. Then, in 1985, Nike launched the Air Jordan, and for the first time trainers became acceptable to a wider audience. If that was the first wave, since 2000 there’s been another huge surge in popularity, with sneakers reaching an ever wider audience. The advent of the internet has seen the sneaker subculture grow rapidly. In 1999, the first shop opened in Amsterdam that sold just sneakers, Seventy Five. Amsterdam is now home to many independent sneaker specialists – many more, even, than other Dutch cities, and although most trainers can now be brought online, the most exclusive shoes are first sold in-store. And as sneaker behemoth Nike partners with everyone from hip-hop legend Kanye West to Givenchy designer Riccardo Tisci, sneakers are invading both the mainstream and the world of haute-couture. Style never felt this good.

what’s in store

WHAT’S IN STORE Fashion-forward style – for him (M) and her (F).

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text Elisah Jacobs

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 ADIDAS STELLA SPORT (F)

DOOR DE WEEKS (F)

Yes, you can wear a real ‘Stella McCartney’ in the gym. The British designer – and daughter of the legendary Beatle – has her own label for Adidas. Stella Sport is a new, colourful line for young girls and is less expensive than the regular Stella McCartney for Adidas line. Featuring sports trousers, tank tops, bathing suites, knee socks, (beach) bags, hats, shoes and jackets, it’s great to wear during – and after – your workout. Girls only!

For the killer combination of vintage  fashion and furniture, accessories, make-up and coffee all under one roof, head to the East of Amsterdam for Doordeweeks. Scroll through the racks for second-hand fashion or book a makeup appointment for a new ‘you’ while enjoying a cup of White Coffee, a healthy juice or a super-food breakfast.

BY BROWN (F)

GUESS BY MARCIANO (M/F)

How to survive a typical Dutch shower? Just wear By Brown’s fancy Raindress. It may be expensive (€249) but it’s also very effective: think 100 per cent waterand windproof, with reflective strip and a breathable membrane so you sweat less. The best news is that you really can look fashionable (and less grumpy) on your bicycle in the rain. Good to know: you can fold the dress into a bag in five handy steps. Pick it up at Azzuro Due.

The hip younger sibling of GUESS, GUESS by Marciano focuses on contemporary trends. For spring/summer 2015, men will find crisp suits (yes, even when it’s hot) or go casual with printed shirts, slim-line jackets, striped sweaters and dip-dyed tops, while women can choose from coral suits, brightly coloured dresses and dashing blouses.

Leidsestraat 7 www.adidas.nl

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Andreas Bonnstraat 12 http://doordeweeks.com

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PC Hooftstraat 138 http://bybrown.nl

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H.E BY MANGO (M) The ‘big brother’ of fashion chain Mango tackled football legend Zinedine Zidane as its newest campaign model. For Spring 2015, H.E by Mango features printed shirts, tailored suits, summer jackets and knitwear in beige, blue and white tones. In addition to clothing, men can also pick up accessories such as shoes, bags, ties, sunglasses and hats. shop.mango.com

ESPRIT (M/F) Next to fashion for women, men and kids – and even for your home – Esprit also has a sports collection, not-so-imaginatively named Esprit Sport. Think shorts, jackets and tank tops (also for yoga), all dedicated to the brand’s Californian roots. The launch of this new sports collection is set for this July, so we’ll have to wait a little longer. In the meantime, you can shop the regular collection, which is also well worth a mention. Kalverstraat 203 www.esprit.nl

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PC Hooftstraat 82 www.guessbymarciano.it

LOCALS (W) As the name suggests, Locals (in the charming Nine Streets area) is all about local brands and designers. Shop here for leather bags from Cowboysbags, printed scarfs from POM and Unami, colourful rings by Ohlala, porcelain tiles from StoryTiles and quirky animal-shaped hooks by The ZOO – not to mention beautiful art and prints, collected by owner Suzanne. All items have a special story to tell, are mostly hand-made and always unique. It’s the perfect place to score a nice gift for a friend.

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Spuistraat 272 http://localsamsterdam.com

UNDERTØJ (M) An Amsterdam brand with a Danish touch, undertøj is Danish for ‘underwear’ and designs minimalistic boxer shorts in black or white, made of the best quality cotton to fit perfectly. Pick them up online or offline at Spare Time.

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Rijnstraat 205 www.undertoj.com

250 BRANDS - 30 -70% SAVINGS - 7 DAYS A WEEK SUITSUPPLY - MARC O’POLO - GANT - GUESS - NIKE - LACOSTE - ASICS G-STAR FOOTWEAR - LE CREUSET - HUGO BOSS - AND MANY MORE

WWW.BATAVIASTAD.COM

PART IV

THE

mar &apr 2015

FESTIVALS/MUSIC/ CLUBBING/EXHIBITIONS/ STAGE/FAMILY/SPORTS/ GAY & LESBIAN

ÂŠ HARJONO DJOYOBISONO, DAYAK KENYAH WOMAN

For complete listings, see www.iamsterdam.com

BODY ART Exploring the history, culture and identity politics of body art while looking at why people decorate their bodies using (for example) tattoos, piercings and make-up, this exhibition delves into the various meanings and functions of body art, the shifts in beauty ideals and the significance body modification can have in terms of social status or personal identity. Until 30 August Tropenmuseum, Linnaeusstraat 2 http://tropenmuseum.nl

PART IV THE A-LIST

FESTIVALS & EVENTS FESTIVALS & EVENTS 5 DAYS OFF At the beginning of March every year, 5 Days Off storms into Amsterdam to present an entrancing cross-section of the latest in electronic music. Inspired by Belgium’s 10 Days Off, the festival features the very best in the fields of electronic music, art and media art. From relatively small beginnings in the early Noughties, it has grown into a citywide affair with events being held in the Melkweg, Paradiso and De Balie. See page 24. Wed 4-Sun 8 Mar, various locations, www.5daysoff.nl. Various times, €59.95 (all access ticket, various prices for individual events)

Choice festivals

CHOCOA FESTIVAL Chocoholics’ dreams come true at this three-day festival examining the origin, production and taste of quality chocolate. Just like wine, chocolate has nuances that can be learned through serious tasting. Head to the Chocoa Festival to learn how to ‘slow’ taste and visit booths to find out all about the history of chocolate. Also look out for chocolate workshops organised by chocolate makers and other experts. Fri 6-Sun 8 Mar, Beurs van Berlage, Damrak 243, www.chocoa.nl. Times & prices TBA

RESTAURANT WEEK Actually running for longer than a week, this biannual event sees the city present its culinary bounty to offer memorable mouthfuls at cheap, forgettable prices. The idea is simple: eat, drink and be merry at no added expense. It’s a great opportunity to sample some the Water Fun Zone, offering the chance to go water-skiing, canoeof the city’s finest dining estabing, sailing and plenty more. lishments by trying discounted Wed 11-Sun 15 Mar, Amstermenus that won’t leave a nasty dam RAI, Europaplein, www. taste in your mouth. The wealth hiswarai.nl. Various times of participating establishments & prices traditionally includes Michelin-starred restaurants, lauded CINEDANS celebrity dining haunts and This international dance and trendy eateries. Thur 5-Sun 15 Mar, various res- movie festival features short- and full-length dance films, docutaurants, www.restaurantweek. mentaries, installations and a nl. Various times & prices special children’s programme. SPIRIT OF AMSTERDAM The 12th edition of the ‘Dance on Screen’ festival includes docThis international celebration of whisky allows fans of the amber umentaries about Jirí Kylián and Sasha Waltz plus premieres of stuff to sample more than 500 work by choreographer Marco types from not only Scotland Gerris and director Ruben and Ireland but also the USA, van Leer. Japan, India and Taiwan. Expect Wed 11-Sun 15 Mar, EYE delicious drinks and a warm Filmmuseum, IJpromenade 1, atmosphere to match with tasting www.cinedans.nl. Various times sessions led by whisky experts. & prices Sat 7 Mar, Zuiderkerk, Zuiderkerkhof 72, www.thespiritof AMSTERDAM GAY & amsterdam.com. Various LESBIAN FILM FESTIVAL times, €39.50 (ROZE FILMDAGEN) HISWA With its top-draw programming, this festival has earned an excelCelebrating its 60th edition in lent reputation amongst its visi2015, this annual fair is the ideal tors, as well as with filmmakers start to the new season for water-sports fanatics, featuring hun- and festivals abroad. The Roze Filmdagen aim to highlight all dreds of boats, informative workaspects of quality LGBT cinema shops and the latest gadgets on for a broad audience: feature the market. Younger visitors are also invited to get their feet wet at films, documentaries and shorts, which are missing in the regular advert cinematic offerings. Thur 12-Sun 22 Mar, Ketelhuis Cinema, Westergasfabriek, www.rozefilmdagen.nl. Various times & prices

QUEEN LEAR 12 MAR & 9, 16 APR SURTITLED IN ENGLISH

ST PATRICK’S EVE If you had dyed-green canals, bad wigs and floods of Guinness in mind, think again: this DutchIrish cultural celebration is a tad more sophisticated. Renowned classical pianist Finghin Collins and critically acclaimed singer-songwriter Julie Feeney perform in an intimate venue that becomes a green cultural oasis. Sun 15 Mar, Splendor Amsterdam, Nieuwe Uilenburgerstraat 116, www.splendoramsterdam. com. Time & price TBA

some of the country’s most legendary techno events and it’s back to help you kick-start your Easter. Major names including Joris Voorn, Elias Mazian, Tini, The Martinez Brothers and Sven Väth will all be taking to the decks during this ten-hour marathon. And if you’re hungry for more, Awakenings stays in town for the three following nights. Thur 2 Apr, Gashouder Amsterdam, Westergasfabriek, www. awakenings.nl. 22.00, €29.50 SCHELLINGWOUDER FESTIVAL The music festival in the small church returns for its ninth edition. Fri 3-Mon 6 Apr, Schellingwouderkerk, Wijkergouw 6, www. stadsherstel.nl. Various times, voluntary contribution

avant-garde, bass music, improv jazz and underground dance. Fri 17-Sun 19 Apr, various locations, www.sotufestival.com. Times & prices TBA MUSEUM WEEK Expanding from a weekend to a whole week, this event sees museums all around the Netherlands organise unique events and lower ticket prices, inviting visitors to check out what they’re all about. With admission being reduced to as little as €1 at many of Amsterdam’s museums, it’s the ideal time to visit. Alongside reduced admission charges, participating museums plan at least one special activity for visitors. Sat 18-Fri 24 Apr, various locations, www.museumweekend.nl. Various times & prices

MEIBOK FESTIVAL DGTL FESTIVAL The spring sister of the Bokbier Fans of top-notch beats are in for Festival later in the year, this a treat this Easter as more than beery festival celebrates mei80 artists and DJs descend on the bock (spring beers) from the city’s former industrial docklands Netherlands and further afield. to pump out some of the best With a huge selection of glorious underground electronica in the draught and bottled ‘bok’ beer world today. Encompassing mul- on offer, it’s a haven for connoistiple stages, this indoor-outdoor seurs and enthusiasts alike. In ANTIQUE, ART, DESIGN AND experience mixes up established many ways it’s back to basics: FLEA MARKET and new DJs and live acts, along you get a glass upon entry and with an artistic flourish that this is yours for the entire visit, This market returns to the connects modern innovation to so take good care of it. After beautiful Posthoornkerk church, industrial nostalgia. See page 17. you’ve tried a beer, rinse out presenting a refuge for barSat 4 & Sun 5 Apr, NDSM-werf, your glass and it’s off to the next gain-hunters of all kinds. And www.dgtlfestival.com. brewer’s stand. just like on TV, visitors can have 12.00, €47.50 Sun 19 Apr, Posthoornkerk, Haarthe worth of their purchased lemmerstraat 124-126, www.pint. treasures estimated by experts. IMAGINE FILM FESTIVAL nl. 13.00, entrance €TBA (beers Fri 27-Sun 29 Mar, PosthoornkFrom sci-fi to cult, anime to priced per glass) erk, Haarlemmerstraat 124-126, www.stadsherstel.nl. 11.00, free fantasy and horror to experimenNBCOLLECTION tal: the Imagine Film Festival OPEN TOWER DAY celebrates three decades of movie Unique mini-dance festival celeAMSTERDAM magic. While the festival still fea- brating the oeuvre of acclaimed tures the very best international choreographer and theatre-makWell-known historical towers in horror releases, it has broadened er Nicole Beutler. Featuring six Amsterdam as well as modern, its taste to include fantasy, cult, works that aptly demonstrate architecturally interesting examanime and science fiction. Imhow her creations blend dance, ples can be visited and, in some agine isn’t only about the filmic theatre, music and art into onecases, climbed today. side of life: in addition to dozens off works of art. Sat 28 Mar, various locations, of long and short films, directors Thur 23-Sat 25 Apr, Frascati, Nes www.opentorendag.nl. Various are invited to discuss their work 63, www.nbprojects.nl, various times & prices in symposiums. And, for hardtimes & prices THE COLOUR FANTASTIC: core horror fans, there’s the annuKING’S DAY CHROMATIC WORLDS OF al Night of Terror at Amsterdam’s SILENT CINEMA Pathé Tuschinski. See page 27. King’s Day festivities invite Wed 8-Sat 18 Apr, EYE Filmlocals and visitors alike to soak A forum for contemporary demuseum, IJpromenade 1, www. up Amsterdam’s open-air fun. bates around the use of colour in In the streets, canals, parks and the silent-film era, exploring a di- imaginefilmfestival.nl. Various times & prices everywhere in between, the city is verse range of topics and providbursting with orange as everyone ing a stimulating environment for WORLD MINIMAL is invited to enjoy the nation’s experts from different disciplines. MUSIC FESTIVAL biggest party of the year. Check The conference programme also Expect five days of crystal-clear out I amsterdam for all the latest includes screenings of restored music, DJs, film presentations information on what’s in store on and/or rarely seen films. Sat 28-Tue 31 Mar, EYE Filmmu- and lectures/debates as the Muz- the day (and on King’s Night, the iekgebouw’s homage to minimal evening before). See page 20. seum, IJpromenade 1, www.eye music returns. This year’s special Mon 27 Apr, various locations, film.nl. Various times & prices appearance is by none other than www.iamsterdam.com/en/visit CINEMASIA FESTIVAL American minimal pioneer Terry ing/whats-on/kings-day. Various Riley, with a world premiere of times & prices This annual film festival makes a new composition and plenty a welcome return with more BREDEWEG FESTIVAL of his other works on the progroundbreaking films from gramme. See page 27. Characterised by a family-friendAsia. Past editions have included Wed 8-Sun 12 Apr, Muziekgely vibe, the Bredeweg Festival in the most vibrant film cultures, bouw aan ’t IJ, Piet Heinkade 1, the Oost district of Amsterdam is featuring everything from Holwww.muziekgebouw.nl. Various a bustling street fiesta featuring a lywood hopefuls to orphaned times & prices street market, fair, theatre perforchildren and Himalayan quests mances and concerts. There’s live for God to lip-synching Filipino SOUND OF THE music of all styles spread over a drag queens. UNDERGROUND series of stages, great food to keep Wed 1-Mon 6 Apr, De Balie, With events held across the city, the energy levels up and lots of Kleine Gartmanplantsoen 10, this three-day festival focuses family fun including rides, storywww.cinemasia.nl. Times & on alternative and independtellers, face painters, craft workprices TBA ent music culture in a variety shops and performance artists. AWAKENINGS EASTER of incarnations. As the name Mon 27 Apr, Bredeweg (AmSPECIAL suggests, expect a gloriously unsterdam Oost), www.facebook. derground experience with plenty com/bredewegfestival. Various An institution in the Netherof noise, indie rock, psychedelia, times, free lands, Awakenings is behind

mar & apr 2015

MUSIC/POP & JAZZ being perpetually ‘off the wall’ is part of his schtick. There’s plenty of experimentation in the music, HABIB KOITÉ especially in his earlier days of One of the greatest African mu- home-recorded cassettes. But between the bouts of madness and sicians of the modern era, Mali-based guitarist Koité is perhaps outright silliness, the reason for his sustained indie success is that best known for his group Bamthere are always priceless gems ada. A star that’s always capable in the mix. of plucking out emphatic African Fri 13 Mar, Sugar Factory, melodies, he’s a sharp collabora19.00, €18 tor, embracing rock, hip hop, jazz and blues along the way. KITTY, DAISY AND LEWIS Sun 1 Mar, North Sea Jazz Club, These London siblings broke 21.00, €22-€26 through in 2008 with their HAYSEED DIXIE bounding take on classic rock’n’ roll and rockabilly. Their new Performing in one of Amsterrecord still kicks and swings dam’s newest and most polished but, produced by Mick Jones of venues, they’ll have to cover the The Clash, it isn’t necessarily the floor in sawdust for the arrival bright and happy nostalgia trip of the bluegrass hillbilly titans. you usually expect from them. This ‘party folk’ band made it big Fri 13 Mar, Paradiso, internationally by fiddling their 20.30, €20 way through AC/DC and other rock classics. CLOCKWORK INDIGO & Mon 2 Mar, Tolhuistuin, THE ELECTRIC KOOLADE 20.30, €15 EXPERIENCE IDLEWILD ‘Beast Coast’ rap crews Flatbush ZOMBiES and The UnderachievIt’s been 20 years since this vibrant Scottish outfit emerged ers team up as Clockwork Indigo, bashing out some collaborative from Edinburgh, initially shredhip-hop hits. ding audiences with feedback Sat 14 Mar, Melkweg, and fuzz pedals before refining 20.00, €20 their pop sound and enjoying mainstream chart success with SUSANNE SUNDFØR hits like ‘American English’. Tue 3 Mar, Bitterzoet, 21.00, €15 This pop songstress is a massive star back in her native Norway, NOUVEAU VÉLO where she’s clocked up a string of chart-topping singles and albums. Young pups of the Dutch inFollowing guest spots with M83 die-rock scene, Nouveau Vélo and Röyksopp in recent years, released a debut album in 2014 she’s now set to take the crisp that simply crackles with energy. electro-pop of her new record, Due to its tight post-punk drumTen Love Songs, to the world. ming, melodically picked guitar Sat 14 Mar, Paradiso, riffs and catchy choruses, its one 20.00, €11 part Real Estate and another part early-REM. Wed 4 Mar, Paradiso, 22.00, €9 JOOLS HOLLAND’S RHYTHM AND BLUES ORCHESTRA MARY BLACK Every spring, this former pop pianist – who’s now more recThis songstress has been a keyognised from his BBC television stone in Irish folk music and show – gets back on the road with contemporary pop since the an exceptionally gifted bunch of ’70s, but after a long and fruitful musos. They specialise in vivacareer, she’s calling it a day on touring. Join her for this farewell cious blasts of boogie-woogie and rock’n’roll, and this tour features performance, supported by her Gilson Lavis and singers Ruby daughter Roisin O. Turner and Louise Marshall. Sun 8 Mar, Meervaart, 20.15, Sat 14 Mar, Paradiso, €25-€30 20.30, €30 JOSÉ GONZÁLEZ RAVI COLTRANE Swedish singer-songwriter José Over the past 20 years Ravi Gonzalez remains most famous Coltrane has grown into the role for his acoustic solo work, alas one of the leading saxophonthough he occasionally likes to ists of his generation – perhaps bring the noise with his band unsurprising, as the offspring of Junip. In February he released legendary parents John and AlVestiges & Claws, his first solo record since 2007, moving away ice. But crucially, Ravi has always sought to move forward in jazz, from the minimalist covers. Supnot live off the family legacy. port from Ólöf Arnalds. Sat 14 Mar, Bimhuis, Mon 9 Mar, Melkweg, 20.30, €25 19.00, €20

POP & JAZZ

40 YEARS CITY LINKS As part of this jazz venue’s 40th anniversary celebrations, the series 40 Years City Links looks at the connections between this and other major jazz cities. Tonight, it’s London, with Han Bennink, the inimitable Dutch drummer, teaming up with British pianist Alexander Hawkins. Fri 13 Mar, Bimhuis, 20.30, €18 ARIEL PINK This American lo-fi icon creates enchanting music. Admittedly it’s not always listenable music, but

THE SUBWAYS Loud guitars and raw energy have long been the key ingredients driving this British trio. Their love of grunge, punk and power chords lives on in their newly released self-titled album. Sat 14 Mar, Tolhuistuin, 20.30, €15 BETTYE LAVETTE This American soul singer has enjoyed fantastic success in recent years – long overdue in fact. Her singing career was launched in 1962, at the tender age of 16,

SPANDAU BALLET PINGUINRADIO’S 30X20 but despite appearing on many MINUTES FESTIVAL singles through the ’60s and ’70s, These bastions of the New Roshe’d never made it as an album mantic movement are back on Thirty bands, 20 minutes each. artist. Over the past decade she’s the road to relive 30-year-old hits Pretty good value, whether you’re been something of a rediscovered like ‘True’ and ‘Gold’. Rather than looking to discover a new favourgem thanks to her thrilling live a new album, their rejuvenation ite act or just wanna experience performances, accentuated by and subsequent tour has been this amazing venue. The running high-profile TV spots and some inspired by the documentary order is voted for by the public. interesting recording choices. Soul Boys Of The Western World, Sat 4 Apr, Paradiso, 12.30, €5 Tue 17 Mar, Paradiso, a warts-’n’-all look at the history PINGUINS IN PARADISO 20.30, €20 of the band. Sat 21 Mar, Heineken Music Following on from their new muSTEEL PANTHER Hall, 20.00, €52 sic showcase this afternoon, the Encapsulating the puerility, fashradio platform brings in nine top PAUL SIMON & STING ion sense and hairspray of ’80s acts from home and abroad, plus heavy metal, this LA glam outfit This is the sound of... an plenty of other surprises. has dug success out of its dirty Englishman in New York. Sat 4 Apr, Paradiso, 20.00, €25 denim pockets by magnifying the See page 19. 007: MICHIEL BORSTLAP & most ludicrous lyrics imaginable, Sun 22 Mar & Sat 18 Apr, Ziggo BILLY COBHAM to the point of making Beavis and Dome, 19.30, €69-€125 Butt-head blush. During his career, Borstlap has THE TWILIGHT SAD Tue 17 Mar, Heineken Music proven himself as one of the Hall, 20.00, €35 Thundering bass and toms, Netherlands’ most versatile pianists, collaborating with the likes of Herbie Hancock and Gino Vannelli. In his new 007 concert series, he’ll transform into an international secret agent to team up with the world’s top jazz stars. Up first, renowned jazz and fusion drummer Billy Cobham. Sat 4 Apr, North Sea Jazz Club, 21.00, €20-€24

Choice pop & jazz

MØ Dealing in intensely soulful electro pop, this Danish star has been attracting an increasingly international audience for a couple of years. She’s worked with the likes of Diplo and Iggy Azalea. Tue 7 Apr, Melkweg, 19.30, €15

SLEATER-KINNEY The return of Sleater-Kinney has been creating noise in the indie realm. The release of their No Cities to Love in January was a relative surprise following a long-term hiatus, but their re-emergence has only served as a reminder of just how good they were. This all-female trio still makes the most thrilling punk-rock’n’roll around, with their call-and-response guitar riffs, the emotionally charged vocal shrieks and the pounding percussion carrying the weighty rock rhythms of AC/DC, the fluid guitar histrionics of Television and the message of the Riot Grrrl scene. Thur 19 Mar, Paradiso, 20.30, €22.50

HANGGAI Mongolian throat singing is a pretty atmospheric and unique genre. ’Course, it’s all the better if you add some Western folk and a dash of punk, and then what you have is Hanggai. See page 27. Wed 8 Apr, Tolhuistuin, 20.30, €15 PURITY RING With a return timed perfectly to let their Scottish peers Chvrches rest up and find inspiration for new music, this electronic duo is set to deliver a pure blast of pop, brimming with synth arpeggios, classic ’80s drum sounds and the sweet vocals of Megan James. Thur 9 Apr, Melkweg, 19.30, €16.50

HANNI EL KHATIB sheets of noisy, blurred guitars This bluesy Californian singand the lamenting roar of a thick er-songwriter can never quite es- Scottish brogue. The Twilight Sad cape comparisons with The Black blast out wave after wave of emoKeys. At least Khatib doesn’t tion, with singer James Graham THE PRODIGY seem too troubled, going so far intermittently punching the air or as to collaborate with Dan Auer- pounding his chest in an effort to From their early rave hits to bach, and his latest blues rock al- exorcise every last ounce of ener- their ‘Firestarter’ festival heyday, bum, Moonlight, may be his most gy and feeling during their sets. The Prodigy have always been accessible yet. See page 27. Wed 25 Mar, Paradiso, successful outsiders. Their bass Thur 19 Mar, Melkweg, 21.30, €10 has shaken thousands of venues 19.30, €13 to the core, while their punk-rock 40 YEARS CITY LINKS NICKI MINAJ As part of this jazz venue’s 40th advert The pink-adorned pop princess anniversary celebrations, the with the potty mouth returns to series 40 Years City Links looks this vast arena in support of The at the connections between Pinkprint, the record she snuck here and other major jazz citout right before Christmas 2014. ies. Tonight, it’s Chicago, with Special guest is Trey Songz. renowned musicians from both Thur 19 Mar, Ziggo Dome, 19.30, cities collaborating. €34-€69 Sat 28 Mar, Bimhuis, 20.30, €18 REGGAE UNPLUGGED New concert series from Reggae Movement. The focus is on atmosphere and intimacy as a host of reggae acts take to the stage for (semi) acoustic performances. Guests include Ziggi Recado, Joggo and Rapha Pic. Tuck into a vegan dinner before the gig. Sat 21 Mar, Paradiso, 21.15, €10 (€17.50 including dinner)

NICK MULVEY This Brit singer-songwriter had a fantastic 2014. His gentle and soulful guitar-based songs stretch beyond the more typical radio-friendly acoustic folk thanks to the way he embraces the brightly picked melodies of African pop. Mon 30 Mar, Paradiso, 20.30, €17.50

MEDEA 26 MAR SURTITLED IN ENGLISH

PART IV THE A-LIST

MUSIC/POP & JAZZ / CLASSICAL ELIADES OCHOA ROYAL WIND MUSIC – a one-hour classical concert every MEETING POINT Saturday afternoon. One of the most popular stars to have toured with the Buena Vista Every Sat, Noorderkerk, 14.00 This unusual ensemble consists Social Club, Ochoa remains the of 13 young recorder players. This LUNCH CONCERT & TOUR essential voice when it comes to afternoon they perform works by Free monthly performance in Cuban ‘son’. Expect a blend of his both Western and Far Eastern THE EX own work, as well as a few Buena collaboration with the Nationaal composers, including Telemann Celebrating their 35th anniversaMuziekinstrumenten Fonds. Vista classics. and Hosokawa. ry in 2015, The Ex undoubtedly Tue 10 March & 21 April, MuzWed 22 Apr, Meervaart, 20.15, Sun 8 Mar, Amstelkerk, remains one of the Netherlands’ iekgebouw aan ’t IJ, 12.30, free, €27.50-€32.50 16.00, €17.50 most exciting live bands, balanctour €8.50 SKIP&DIE DIE FRAU MARLENE ing their early post-punk ethics AKADEMIE FÜR ALTE DIETRICH with brass-infested guests and Think of electro-cumbia-regMUSIK BERLIN Ethiopian jazz grooves. The result gae-hip-pop projects and Dutch Dietrich’s last silent film, Die is an immensely danceable blast The orchestra dances all the bands don’t typically spring to Frau, nach der man sich sehnt, of ragged rock. way to the waltz-crazy Vienna of mind. But Skip&Die have been is given the live-soundtrack Sat 11 Apr, Tolhuistuin, the olden times, with works by travelling the world for two years treatment as Luxembourgian 20.30, €18 as they work to change that. Now they’re set to showcase a new alWILL BUTLER bum and party like it’s 1999 in an It’s a good few years since the alternate universe. Arcade Fire frontman played a Wed 22 Apr, Tolhuistuin, set in Melkweg, but he’s taking a 20.30, €14 brief break from his arena-conDAVID KWEKSILBER BIG quering art-pop band and getting BAND back to basics. His solo album Policy is out in March, potentially Featuring pioneering musicians showcasing a simpler sound. from improvised as well as modMon 13 Apr, Melkweg, 19.30, €17 ern classical music, this eccentric line-up inspires composers from B-MOVIE ORCHESTRA every possible musical direction. Get set for a cinematic and theatWith different approaches and rical trip with the 12 members of forms of improvisation the musithis film-fan group. Their love of cians turn the brand new compoerotica, horror, crime, sci-fi and sitions into the ultimate music of classic Westerns is always apparthe moment. ent, blazing and dancing a trail Sat 25 Apr, Bimhuis, 20.30, €20 onstage while movie scenes play FATOUMATA DIAWARA KATY PERRY PENTATONIX out behind them. Wed 15 Apr, Melkweg, 20.00, €16 This Texan a cappella pop quintet It may seem strange to deBleached pop for the young is in a successful minority: they clare Fatoumata Diawara the and young at heart. Fresh CALEXICO found fame from a TV talent new rising star of Mali’s pop from riding a giant tiger at The Tex-Mex indie and folk from show and have gone on to much scene; after all, she’s been a the Superbowl, these two this Arizona group has remained greater success. Their speciality is star of both film and stage massive shows on her Prisimmensely popular in Amsterreimaging pop and soul hits with since the mid-’90s. But it’s matic tour are sure to result dam since the release of Feast of their tighter-than-tight vocal only in recent years that she’s in a blaze of pop hits – ‘I Wire in 2003. harmonies, racking up millions Thur 16 Apr, Paradiso, of YouTube views with the likes of also attracted global attention Kissed a Girl’, ‘Part of Me’, 20.30, €25 their Daft Punk medley and fillfor her sensual bluesy folk, ‘Roar’, etc. – accompanied ing huge venues the world over. recalling compatriot Rokia by dazzling lights, extravaSYSTEM OF A DOWN Tue 28 Apr, Heineken Music Traoré. Although her musical gant costumes, glitter, mulWhen they emerged in the lateHall, 20.00, €34 career is relatively fresh, she’s timedia and countless other ’90s System of a Down were like already enchanted many vocal creatures dancing to the GODSPEED YOU! BLACK nothing else on the heavy-metal EMPEROR collaborators, including greats beats. Don’t worry: somehow scene. In 2015, both the quirks and the rage live on, and this Alongside peers like Mogwai, like Youssou N’dour, Damon it’ll all make sense thanks to Wake Up the Souls tour comGodspeed has ruled the atmosAlbarn and Paul McCartney. Perry’s ‘Prism-Vision’. Mon 9 memorates the 100th anniversary pheric post-rock scene since the Sat 7 Mar, Muziekgebouw aan & Tue 10 Mar, Ziggo Dome, of the Armenian genocide. mid-’90s. This Canadian collec’t IJ, 20.15, €28.50 20.00, €45-€95 Fri 17 Apr, Ziggo Dome, 20.00, tive takes the role seriously too, €39-€49 eschewing press and relying on Mozart, Haydn and ‘Waltz King’ ensemble United Instruments of the music and ‘collective voice’. THE BAD PLUS Johann Strauss. Fortunately it pays off – their Lucilin performs a new jazz- and From Nirvana to Stravinsky, this shows feeland audiences remain Sun 1 Mar, Concertgebouw, minimalism-influenced score by trio will try their hand at just 11.00, €19-€25 mesmerised. Support from Greek composer Pascal Schumacher. about anything. They have an instrumentalist Xylouris White. Wed 4 Mar, Muziekgebouw aan CLOSE-UP: CAROLINE outstanding live reputation too, Thur 30 Apr, Paradiso, ’t IJ, 20.15, €25 STRUMPHLER showing all the coolness and 20.30, €25 ANNE-SOPHIE MUTTER + confidence of any hyped rock star. ‘Portrait concert’ of the RCO viROBBEN FORD ROYAL CONCERTGEBOUW This show sees them showcasolinist featuring György Kurtág’s ORCHESTRA ing their latest album concept, Kafka Fragments, based on letTop quality blues and jazz from Science Fiction, which has the ters by the great writer himself. the star American guitarist; a The world-famous violinist perpiano trio performing with three Sun 1 Mar, Concertgebouw, member of LA Express and an forms Sibelius’s intricate violin fantastic horn players: Tim Berne esteemed collaborator with the 14.15, €32.50 concerto and the Tenth Symphoand Sam Newsome on saxophone likes of Miles Davis, Sting and ny by Shostakovich. SWEELINCK BAROKORKEST and Ron Miles on trumpet. Joni Mitchell. Wed 4 & Thur 5 Mar, ConcertgeFri 17 Apr, Bimhuis, 20.30, Some of Händel’s greatest hits, Thur 30 Apr, North Sea Jazz bouw, 20.15, €30-€122.50 €20-€28 including Zadok the Priest, Music Club, 21.00, €25-€28 ASKO | SCHÖNBERG for the Royal Fireworks and part SHARON VAN ETTEN three of the Messiah. The Dutch premiere of 33 VeränTV on the Radio’s Kyp Malone CLASSICAL Sun 1 Mar, Muziekgebouw aan ’t derungen über 33 Veränderungen encouraged Sharon to give the IJ, 15.00, €17 by German Hans Zender. LUNCHTIME CONCERTS music biz a try after she moved Thur 5 Mar, Muziekgebouw aan CALEFAX + HOLLAND to Brooklyn in 2008. His advice Who said there’s no such thing as ’t IJ, 20.15, €28.50 paid off. Six years later, the sing- a free lunch (concert)? The Royal BAROQUE SOCIETY – WHAT IF BACH… ORCHESTRA DELLA SCALA er-songwriter is cruising along Concertgebouw’s lunchtime conon four full-length albums of … had composed his works for certs are exactly that. Mendelssohn-Bartholdy’s trip haunting melancholia and is now Calefax and the Holland Baroque to Italy left a lasting impression Every Wed, Concertgebouw, on her latest European tour. BeSociety? This question’s led to a on the composer and led to the 12.30, free guiling support comes from folk reimagining of some of Bach’s creation of his Fourth Symphony NOORDERKERK CONCERTS troubadour Sam Amidon. most popular works. – the Italian Symphony. Sun 19 Apr, Tolhuistuin, Sat 7 Mar, Concertgebouw, From September through May, Sun 1 Mar, Muziekgebouw aan ’t 20.00, €15 IJ, 20.15, €28.50 14.15, €49-€56 Amsterdam’s Noorderkerk hosts electronics won over both dance and rock crowds. Can they still cut it? See page 27. Fri 10 April, Heineken Music Hall, 20.00, €39

Choice pop & jazz

NETHERLANDS PHILHARMONIC ORCHESTRA – EROICA In addition to the Beethoven, audiences tonight can expect to hear the Swedish soprano Lisa Larsson performing a new work by Rolf Martinsson. Sat 7 & Tue 10 Mar, Concertgebouw, 20.15, €19-€42 ARCADI VOLODOS The piano virtuoso plays Beethoven, Brahms and Schubert. Sun 8 Mar, Concertgebouw, 20.15, €55.50-€69.50 FLAIRCK – THE LADY’S BACK Blending folk and jazz with chamber music, this Dutch ensemble has been going since the late ’70s; they now look back on their long career, performing highlights. Mon 9 Mar, Royal Theatre Carré, 20.00, €15-€35 JANINE JANSEN + ORCHESTRA DELL’ACCADEMIA NAZIONALE DI SANTA CECILIA Jansen teams up with the famous Roman orchestra for a performance of Tchaikovsky’s violin concerto. Mon 9 Mar, Concertgebouw, 20.15, €41-€107 COLLEGIUM VOCALE GENT + HET COLLECTIEF – JANÁCEK The vocal ensemble from Ghent performs some of Janácek’s lesser-known choral works. Thur 12 Mar, Muziekgebouw aan ’t IJ, 20.15, €35 AN EVENING OF FILM MUSIC Tunes from blockbuster soundtracks, performed by The Metropole Orchestra. Thur 12 & Fri 13 Mar, Concertgebouw, 20.15, €35-€55 JUDITH VAN WANROIJ + BARBARA KOZELJ – OPERA DUETS The soprano and the mezzosoprano team up for pieces by Dvorák and Mendelssohn-Bartholdy, followed by Mozart and Strauss. Fri 13 Mar, Muziekgebouw aan ’t IJ, 20.15, €39.50 ALISA WEILERSTEIN + NETHERLANDS PHILHARMONIC ORCHESTRA Elgar’s cello concerto is a melancholic work about the composer’s experiences in WWI. In addition, the American cellist performs Beethoven’s third overture for Leonore and Sibelius’s Second Symphony. Sat 14 & Sun 15 Mar, Concertgebouw, 20.15, €19-€42 NETHERLANDS CHAMBER CHOIR – BACH, BACH, BACH The choir performs motets by both Johann Sebastian and Carl Philip Emanuel Bach as well as Immortal Bach by Norwegian composer Knut Nystedt. Sun 15 Mar, Muziekgebouw aan ’t IJ, 15.00, €28.50 OPERA PER TUTTI! Regular opera sessions in the beautiful Vondelkerk. Each performance typically includes five or six operatic fragments or arias – some you’ll know inside out,

mar & apr 2015

MUSIC/CLASSICAL others may be new to you. Sun 15 Mar & 12 Apr, Vondelkerk, 15.00, €20

Choice classical

RICHARD GOODE The opportunity to hear Beethoven’s splendid last three sonatas in one concert doesn’t come around all that often. Sun 15 March, Concertgebouw, 20.15, €38-€47.50 ERARD ENSEMBLE – TWILIGHT IN THE OCCIDENT Clarinettist Hein Wiedijk joins the ensemble for a programme of works by Schönberg, Von Zemlinsky and Brahms. Wed 18 Mar, Amstelkerk, 20.15, €18/ free for under-18s NIEUW AMSTERDAMS PEIL The ensemble bridges the folk element of the barrel organ and a concert hall stage. Wed 18 Mar, Muziekgebouw aan ’t IJ, 20.15, €28.50 ROYAL CONCERTGEBOUW ORCHESTRA – ORIGINS: FOLK ART AS INSPIRATION Pondering the different ways in which composers used folk art and music as inspiration, with works by Bartók, Mahler and Aaron Copland i. Thur 19 Mar, Concertgebouw, 21.15, €22.50-€41 COMBATTIMENTO – STABAT MATER Giovanni Felice Sances’ ‘Stabat Mater’ is one of the most beautiful of its kind. As opposed to this more intimate composition, Vivaldi’s version is characteristically expressive. Countertenor Dave ten Kate performs both. Fri 20 Mar, Muziekgebouw aan ’t IJ, 20.15, €35 CALLE REAL The flamenco choir celebrates 15 years with a programme featuring a lecture (in Dutch), a gala concert and a lavish party. There will also be dance workshops for those who feel they should hone their skills before hitting the dance floor. Poosthoornkerk, Fri 20 & Sat 21 Mar, 19.30 (lecture), 20.15 (concert), €22.50

a pared-down, delicate interpretation of the famous work. Mon 30 Mar, Muziekgebouw aan ’t IJ, 19.30, €52 ORCHESTRA OF THE AGE OF ENLIGHTENMENT – ST MATTHEW PASSION The British orchestra tours Europe to perform the St Matthew Passion on period instruments. Mon 30 Mar, Concertgebouw, 19.30, €32-€84

CALEFAX REED QUINTET – BRAND NEW This adventurous reed quintet has never been fearful of boundaries, frequently delving into classical, jazz and occasionally pop. The twist this evening is that it’s all about the American folk tradition, with compositions by Jacob ter Veldhuis and Nico Muhly that were inspired by US folk music, Rzewski’s bluegrass-drenched Reeds that sees them break out the harmonica, piano pieces by Conlon Nancarrow and even Steve Reich’s Vermont Counterpoint. Sat 21 Mar, Concertgebouw, 21.00, €23-€36

NETHERLANDS CHAMBER ORCHESTRA + TOONKUNSTKOOR AMSTERDAM – SING-ALONG CONCERT ST MATTHEW PASSION One for the enthusiasts (but probably not for the purists). Wed 1 Apr, Concertgebouw, 19.30, €25 NETHERLANDS CHAMBER ORCHESTRA + TOONKUNSTKOOR AMSTERDAM – ST MATTHEW PASSION After the sing-along version on Wednesday, the choir takes back the reins tonight. Shush! Fri 3 Apr, Concertgebouw, 20.15, €43-€47 DUDOK ENSEMBLE – ST MATTHEW PASSION Conducted by its founder and Bach expert Johan Rooze, the vocal ensemble returns for its annual Passion. Sat 4 Apr, De Duif, 15.30, €28

ST MATTHEW PASSION Despite the Dutch passion for the Passions, the Bach Choir makes sure there’s plenty of opportunities to get tickets for their production of Bach’s monumental work, performing it on six evenings and two afternoons. What sets this Passion performance apart? Rushing towards their 20th anniversary, Pieter Jan Leusink’s baroque specialists focus on authentic period performances, even dialling down a semitone lower than modern orchestras. Sun 22 Mar-Sun 5 Apr, Concertgebouw, 19.30 (4 & 5 April also 14.30), €50-€75

SINFONIA ROTTERDAM Fresh from a major Mozart gathering in Chile, the last concert of this port city orchestra’s 15th-anniversary celebrations is gonna be an even bigger Mozart fest, beginning with the First Symphony, written by the eight-year-old child prodigy, and concluding with the beautiful Symphony No 29. Bolstering the festive sound, they’re joined by the soloists of the Laureates Internationale Vocalisten Concours and led by their chief conductor, Conrad van Alphen. Wed 29 Apr, Concertgebouw, 20.15, €30

CARSTEN SCHMIDT + ERARD ENSEMBLE – THE WELLTEMPERED CLAVIER The German harpsichordist continues his mission to perform Bach’s works for harpsichord in their entirety around the world for a performance of Camille end of contemporary music, with with this performance of The Saint-Saëns’ Carnival of Ania concert portrait. Well-Tempered Clavier’s monumals, Vaughan Williams’ ‘The Thur 26 Mar, Muziekgebouw mental First Book. Lark Ascending’ and works by aan ’t IJ, 20.15, €28.50 Sun 22 Mar, Amstelkerk, William Walton and Ravel. ROYAL CONCERTGEBOUW 20.15, €18 Tue 24 & Fri 27 Mar, MuziekgeORCHESTRA + NETHERbouw aan ’t IJ, 20.15, €35 KCOV EXCELSIOR – LANDS CHAMBER CHOIR – ST MATTHEW PASSION LA PETITE BANDE – ST JOHN ST JOHN PASSION PASSION The 120-strong choir has been While the St Matthew Passion performing the St Matthew Pas- A different approach to the work tends to be performed more ofsion in the Concertgebouw each sees it sung by just eight singten, the St John Passion is no less year since 1953. ers, acting both as choir and as inspiring, and some even find it Sun 22 & Sun 29 Mar, Concertsoloists. more intense. gebouw, various times, €33-€39 Thur 26 Mar, Concertgebouw, Fri 27 & Sun 29 Mar, Concertge20.15, €35-€79.50 bouw, various times, AMSTERDAM SINFONIETTA €25-€97.50 AND LUCAS & ARTHUR NIEUW ENSEMBLE – JUSSEN BOULEZ 90 ORCHESTRA OF THE 18TH CENTURY + CAPPELLA The brothers Jussen are the On occasion of the great comdouble piano wunderkinder of poser’s 90th birthday, the Nieuw AMSTERDAM – ST MATTHEW PASSION the moment. Today they team up Ensemble honours Boulez, who with the Amsterdam Sinfonietta has been called the last living leg- The orchestra and choir perform

70 YEARS BORODIN QUARTET – THE RUSSIAN SOUL The renowned quartet performs a work by its namesake, plus some Shostakovich and Tchaikovsky. Thur 9 & Sat 11 Apr, Concertgebouw, 20.15, €35-€56 MATANGI QUARTET The quartet delves into Beethoven’s string quartets. Sun 12 Apr, Amstelkerk, 15.30, €16 ATTACA ENSEMBLE – PHILIP GLASS The choral ensemble performs early works by minimal music master Philip Glass. Sun 12 April, Melkweg, 21.00, €18 RONDANE QUARTET – SIMEON TEN HOLT Two days of works by Simeon ten Holt, with a performance of the Netherlands’ favourite minimal music work – the Canto Ostinato – on the Tuesday and Incantatie IV on the Wednesday. Tue 14 & Wed 15 April, De Duif, 20.15, €27.50 NICOLAS VAN POUCKE & FRIENDS – SOPHIKO SIMSIVE Showcasing promising young performers with a performance by Georgian pianist Sophiko Simsive playing Schubert, Brahms and Chopin. Sun 19 April, Amstelkerk, 16.00, €15 HOLLAND BAROQUE SOCIETY – BRANDENBURG CONCERTOS All six Brandenburg concertos in one evening. Tue 21 April, Muziekgebouw aan ’t IJ, 20.15, €28.50

CAPPELLA AMSTERDAM – RACHMANINOV VESPERS Rachmaninov’s Vespers is one of the most impressive Russian choral works. Wed 22 April, Muziekgebouw aan ’t IJ, 20.15, €28.50 NEW YORK PHILHARMONIC Alan Gilbert conducts Stravinsky and Shostakovich. Wed 22 April, Concertgebouw, 20.15, €43-€114 AUGUSTIN HADELICH + NETHERLANDS CHAMBER ORCHESTRA Compositions for solo violin by Mozart and Ysaÿe. Sat 25 & Sun 26 April, Concertgebouw, various times, €19-€48.50 SYMFONIEORKEST CONSERVATORIUM VAN AMSTERDAM – VERBOTENE MUSIK Mahler’s Fifth is the centrepiece of tonight’s concert. Sun 26 April, Muziekgebouw aan ’t IJ, 15.00, €17 JERUSALEM QUARTET With works by Smetana, Erwin Schulhoff and Mozart. Thur 30 April (& Sat 2 May), Concertgebouw, 20.15, €30 ADDRESSES Amstelkerk Amstelveld 10 www.amstelkerk.net Bimhuis Piet Heinkade 3 http://bimhuis.nl Bitterzoet Spuistraat 2 www.bitterzoet.com De Duif Prinsengracht 756 http://deduif.net Heineken Music Hall ArenA Boulevard 590 www.heineken-music-hall.nl Meervaart Meer en Vaart 300 www.meervaart.nl Melkweg Lijnbaansgracht 234A www.melkweg.nl Muziekgebouw aan ’t IJ Piet Heinkade 1 www.muziekgebouw.nl Noorderkerk Noordermarkt 48 www.noorderkerk.org North Sea Jazz Club Pazzanistraat 1 www.northseajazzclub.com Paradiso Weteringschans 6-8 www.paradiso.nl Posthoornkerk Haarlemmerstraat 124-126 www.stadsherstel.nl Royal Concertgebouw Concertgebouw 10 www.concertgebouw.nl Royal Theatre Carré Amstel 115 /125 https://carre.nl Sugarfactory Lijnbaansgracht 238 www.sugarfactory.nl Tolhuistuin IJpromenade 2 www.tolhuistuin.nl Vondelkerk Vondelstraat 120 www.stadsherstel.nl Ziggo Dome De Passage 100 www.ziggodome.nl

PART IV THE A-LIST

CLUBBING & NIGHTLIFE CLUBBING 5 DAYS OFF: SURGEON Surgeon, Peter van Hoesen, Jonas Kopp, Anthony Parasole, Sandrien and others play quality techno. See page 24. Thur 5 Mar, Melkweg, 23.0006.00, €22.70 5 DAYS OFF: FUNKINEVEN Funkineven, Octave One (live), Bicep, Bobby Peru, Boye and Tom Trago play house, disco and techno. See page 24. Fri 6 Mar, Melkweg, 23.0006.00, €24.95 PROPER’S CULT It’s carte blanche tonight for Amsterdam’s disco bohemian par excellence San Proper. Like many Amsterdammers, San loves his house and disco but he’s known to throw in a wide variety of unexpected tunes from a wide array of genres. Fri 6 Mar, Studio 80, 22.0005.00, €15

HEAT James Pants (Stones Throw Records) out of Denver Colorado loves music in any form, whether it be disco boogie, minimal wave, house, psychedelic rock, electro or hip hop. This musical schizophrenia is apparent in his own sample-based work as well as in his DJ sets. Fri 27 Mar, Club Up, 23.00, €10 OWAP 12.5 YEARS A big night of acid smileys and classic house, techno and rave with a rare DJ appearance by Basement Jaxx, DJ Deep, Dimitri, Remy, Erick E, Mike Richters, Benny Rodrigues and MC Bunty. Expect ecstatic glowstick hedonism, 1990s style. Sat 28 Mar, Elementenstraat, 22.00-07.00, €29.50

5 DAYS OFF: FRANÇOIS K New York legends François K, Danny Krivit and Joe Claussell play underground disco tunes. See page 24. Fri 6 Mar, Melkweg, 23.0006.00, €24.95

AWAKENINGS DAY 1 It’s really hard to have a bad time at Awakenings, the regular techno event that’s been at this very same fin de siècle industrial spot in Amsterdam’s inner West for the past 20 years. German techno icon Sven Väth (Cocoon) plays alongside (slightly) younger stars like Joris Voorn and The Martinez Brothers. Thur 2 Apr, Gashouder, 22.00-08.00, €34.50

PLANET DELSIN Tonight’s line-up boasts Chicago house and Italo disco don Aroy Dee, and techno artists Delta Funktionen, G-String, Mattikk and Conforce (live). Sat 7 Mar, Studio 80, 22.0005.00, €15

AWAKENINGS DAY 2 Two punishing, hard-hitting selectors play back-to-back for six hours: Adam Beyer from Sweden with his Italian mate Joseph Capriati. Fri 3 Apr, Gashouder, 22.0008.00, €44.50

INTACTO Headlining this hefty techno night are Spanish producing duo Pig & Dan. Their Elevate parties have been drawing large audiences across various territories over the past couple of years. Expect a distinctive bigroom sound. Local, experienced techno jocks Shinedoe and Juan Sanchez (Format) fill up the space before and after. Fri 13 Mar, De Marktkantine, 23.00-05.00, €17.50

DGTL FESTIVAL DAY 1 The line-up of this year’s festival season kick-off event is incredible. If you love (German and British) house and techno, you better get up early. Dance the day away to the beats of Pachanga Boys, Boddhika, Mano LeTough, Steve Rachmad, Kölsch and many others. See page 17. Sat 4 Apr, NDSM-werf, 12.00-midnight, €47.50

CARTEL BASEMENT SERIES 1 Since Berlin’s Hunee was signed to Rush Hour, he’s made numerous appearances in the Netherlands, mostly in a backto-back set-up with label boss Antal. Tonight sees the disco addict play a solo set alongside house DJ Prosumer. Sat 14 Mar, Closure, 22.0007.00, €15 TRUTJES Italian singer-songwriter, producer and DJ Virginia has made an interesting and unusual transition from releasing hit singles as a pop artist in the 1990s to a new life as an underground DJ in the Noughties. Sat 21 Mar, Canvas, 23.0004.00, €10 UNDERWORLD LIVE One of England’s very first big dance acts plays its groundbreaking album Dubnobasswith myheadman live. See page 27. Tue 24 & Wed 25 Mar, Paradiso, 19.30, €37.50

AWAKENINGS DAY 2 Speedy J torturing the Gashouder is always a classic. It’s hard to distinguish between his various tracks these days, but that’s part of the fun. Also playing are Ben Sims, Oscar Mulero and Detroit’s electro artist Jimmy Edgar. Sat 4 Apr, Gashouder, 22.0008.00, €44.50 DGTL FESTIVAL DAY 3 A lot more housey than day one, some of today’s headliners are Move D, Âme, Malawi, Ian Pooley, John Talabot B2B Job Jobse, DJ Koze, Scuba and Pantha Du Prince (live). See page 17. Sun 5 Apr, NDSM-werf, 12.00-midnight, €47.50 AWAKENINGS DAY 4 Ben Klock and Marcel Dettman play their typical Berghain sound out to the ravers who haven’t collapsed yet. Additional beats by Trouw resident Sandrien and Function (live). Sun 5 Apr, Gashouder, 22.0008.00, €34.50

CLONE LABEL NIGHT Label CEO Serge Verschuur loves anything edgy and electronic; expect him to play a mix of house, techno and electro. Canadians Jack Jutson and Liam Butler are Pender Street Steppers when on stage. In contrast to Serge, the duo’s sets are organic with New Agey sounds such as flutes and live percussion mixed into their disco set. Sat 4 Apr, Studio 80, 23.0005.00, €15 OUTSIDERS X PLLEK X RED LIGHT RADIO DJs Antal (Rush Hour), Malawi and Young Marco play tunes across all rhythmic genres including house and techno, but tonight’s theme is Africa, so expect at least a dozen tunes by Nigeria’s mighty Fela Kuti. Sat 11 Apr, Pllek, 22.00, €15 RONI SIZE REPRAZENT LIVE Back in 1997, drum’n’bass was always believed to be percussive dance music at super-human tempos. Yet, Roni Size’s band Reprazent performed their songs live. See page 17. Sat 18 Apr, Melkweg, 20.00, €22.70 LIQUICITY Sao Paulo-born, London-based drum’n’bass producer S.P.Y debuted about ten years ago on Goldie’s Metalheadz label and has since worked with several big men on the scene including DJ Marky. Expect slamming classic and new breaks, made for large, bouncing crowds. Sat 18 Apr, De Marktkantine, 23.00-05.00, €17.50 STRAF_WERK Straf_Werk brings a varied, techy line-up across two rooms with Hamburg’s Tensnake being the biggest name. The man balances interestingly on the thin line between underground and mainstream electronic music with notable collaborations with Jamie Lidell, MNEK and Nile Rodgers on his résumé. Fri 24 Apr, De Marktkantine, 22.00-06.00, €17.50 HORIZON A night full of electronic disco from the early to mid-1980s. Daniele Baldelli, special guest for tonight, is known for his ‘cosmic’ style: he slows tracks down to give them a more organic feel. Sat 25 Apr, DOKA, 23.0004.00, €10 ASPIRATIONS KINGSNIGHT Though not part of the original first generation of Chicago house producers, Boo Williams followed the footsteps of people like Lil Louis, Marshall Jefferson and Larry Heard with an enormous output on well-respected labels such as Cajual, Peacefrog, Relief and Amsterdam’s own Rush Hour. Sun 26 Apr, Canvas, 23.0004.00, €10 VOLTT & LOCKDOWN: VRIJHAVEN Honour the Dutch king by

Choice clubbing

CONGO NATTY & SHY FX A wicked night of ganja-infused, Jamaican-style jungle and amen break beats. London’s Congo Natty, aka Rebel MC, has been putting out reggae tunes since the 1980s but is best known for his jungle productions. Unlike many of his colleagues, Mr Natty is good with beats as well as with his voice. Legendary number two on the bill is jungle/drum’n’bass hotshot Shy FX, whose breaks have been hitting the floors since 1992. Fri 13 Mar, Melkweg, 23.00-05.00, €17.50

KLEAR LIVE The (Motherfucking) Gaslamp Killer’shighly energetic sets contain anything nonfour-to-the-floor: from Led Zep to Digital Mystikz and from Turkish psychedelic 1970s fuzz guitars to the heaviest J Dilla beats; the man is a true non-conformist crowd pleaser. Support comes from the members of Amsterdam’s Afro-beat ensemble Jungle By Night. Fri 20 March, De Marktkantine, 23.00-05.00, €17.50 dancing to a mix of driving techno and cosy, typical Amsterdam-style house and disco music. Fans of the first category of 4/4 beats will like the sets by Alan Fitzpatrick of Adam Beyer’s Drumcode label, Voltt resident Bart Skils, Mattikk (Delsin) and Mathias Kaden (Freude am Tanzen), while the Amsterdam cool will be served by Rush Hour head honcho Antal Heitlager, Serge (Clone, Rotterdam), Jan van Kampen (Dekmantel), Hunee, Young Marco and Awanto 3. Mon 27 Apr, NDSM-werf, 09.00-20.00, €TBA ADDRESSES Canvas Wibautstraat 150 www.canvasopde7e.nl Closure Rozengracht 133 www.facebook. comclosureamsterdam

J ROCC Californian turntablist Jason Jackson, aka J Rocc, first started working the decks in the mid-1980s with a local rap group called JSK. These days, his skills continue to be incredible and he divides his time between releasing music via Stones Throw Records, working with his group The Beat Junkies, touring with Madlib and playing solo gigs like this one tonight. Sat 4 Apr, Canvas, 23.00-04.00, €10 Club Up Korte Leidsedwarsstraat 26-1 www.clubup.nl DOKA Wibautstraat 150 www.volkshotel.nl/doka Elementenstraat www.elementenstraat.nl Gashouder Klönneplein 1 www.westergasfabriek.nl De Marktkantine Jan van Galenstraat 6 http://marktkantine.nl Melkweg Lijnbaansgracht 234A www.melkweg.nl NDSM-werf www.ndsm.nl Paradiso Weteringschans 6-8 www.paradiso.nl Pllek tt-Neveritaweg 59 www.pllek.nl Studio 80 Rembrandtplein 17 www.studio-80.nl

mar & apr 2015

EXHIBITIONS & MUSEUMS TEMPORARY EXHIBITIONS DANCING LIGHT / LET IT MOVE YOU... Photography and dance are often considered to be poles apart – the former characterised by stillness and the latter by movement, but this exhibition sets out to prove the opposite. Alongside film and video, photography is in fact an ideal means of capturing the primal power of dance, even possessing the potential to illuminate the mysterious, intangible concept of ‘duende’. Huis Marseille, until 8 Mar SELAMAT SJABBAT The Jewish Historical Museum dedicates an exhibition to the oft-hidden history of Jews in the former Dutch colonies, drawing on a wealth of documents, objects, interviews, photos, historical film fragments and ‘home movies’ to give an overview of Jewish life from colonial times until today. Jewish Historical Museum, until 8 Mar ALI & LAILA, AN AMSTERDAM FAMILY HISTORY Featuring new work by photographer Kadir van Lohuizen, this exhibition focuses on the Dutch-Moroccan family Rharib from Amsterdam Oost. Van Lohuizen spent a year with them back in 1993, and returned 20 years later to see how things have changed for the family. Amsterdam Museum, until 8 Mar

LOOK AT ME! This photography exhibition attempts to chart the history of the selfie, presenting photographic self-portraits from three distinct periods and cultures: 19th-century colonial Indonesia, West Africa’s decolonisation period of the ’50s and ’60s and multicultural Western society today. The exhibition explores how self-portraits have always been a powerful means of showing who you are or want to be. Tropenmuseum, until 15 Mar A FAMILY PORTRAYED – VAN LOON IN FOAM As the Museum Van Loon – canal-side mansion and former residence of the Van Loon family – is closed for renovation, the extensive photography collection of the family is exhibited in Foam, the photography museum handily situated across the canal. Foam, until 29 Mar TONY OURSLER – I/O UNDERFLOW A selection of new works by acclaimed American video artist Tony Oursler, created especially for the space in the church. The video performances were recorded in his studio in New York but they make the church’s arches, walls and stained-glass windows appear in a completely new light. Earlier works by the artist are on display in adjoining rooms. Oude Kerk, until 29 Mar JEAN DESMET’S DREAM FACTORY The Amsterdam film museum’s major winter exhibition

draws on the collection of Jean Desmet to examine one of the most interesting periods in film history, between the years of 1907 and 1916. Desmet’s unique collection was added to UNESCO’s Memory of the World Register in 2011 and provides an unrivalled insight into the film industry in the early 20th century: exciting times that saw the development of film as a form of amusement and widespread experimentation with the possibilities offered by the new medium. EYE, until 12 Apr CITY HOTELS Amsterdam’s architecture centre looks at the way hotels and cities can interact: while the right location can determine a hotel’s success on the one hand, the right hotel can also rejuvenate a neighbourhood on the other. ARCAM Centre for Architecture, until 12 Apr MASTERPIECES: BILL VIOLA De Nieuwe Kerk’s ‘Masterpieces’ series continues with two installations by video artist Bill Viola: Tristan’s Ascension and Fire Woman. Viola created the two installations in 2005, for a version of Richard Wagner’s Tristan und Isolde – an opera telling the story of two people destined for each other but who could not be together. Presented subsequently on a special screen, the works are accompanied by Viola’s characteristic sound, varying from ambient silence to loud intense noise. De Nieuwe Kerk, until 12 Apr

COLLECTION D’ART This exhibition tells the story of the renowned and influential Amsterdam gallery Collection d’Art. The gallery was home to numerous developments in contemporary art – from realism through inspired geometry to post-war expressionism – between 1969 and 2004. Cobra Museum of Modern Art, until 19 Apr HAPPY BIRTHDAY CHANEL The Chanel 2.55 bag celebrates its 60th birthday in 2015 and the museum marks the occasion with an exhibition dedicated to the luxury handbag, featuring numerous models of the legendary fashion must-have. Museum of Bags & Purses, until 3 May MELANIE GILLIGAN A three-part experimental drama, presented in Amsterdam, Utrecht and Haarlem. The Common Sense is a film investigating the transfer of sensations between people. The experimental drama is set in a future where new technologies enable one person to feel another’s sensations and experiences. de Appel Arts Centre, until 10 May QUALITIES OF VIOLENCE Michael Dean creates sculptures of cast concrete and other industrial materials, often making these materials appear to be in conflict with their actual physical attribute: rigid, cold cement seems to be soft and flexible. Dean’s sculptural work is accompa-

nied by short, poetic texts. de Appel arts centre, until 10 May LATE REMBRANDT Amsterdam’s Rijksmuseum presents its first comprehensive Rembrandt retrospective to focus on the Dutch Master’s later work. Featuring 40 paintings, 20 drawings and 30 prints, the impressive exhibition is organised in collaboration with the National Gallery in London. With artworks on loan from leading international museums and private collections, the exhibition offers a unique opportunity to view an exhaustive overview of works painted in the period between around 1652 and Rembrandt’s death in 1669. During these years, the artist experimented with graphic and painting techniques and succeeded in giving his work unprecedented depth, producing some of this most distinctive, innovative creations. Rijksmuseum, until 17 May REMBRANDT’S LATE PUPILS – STUDYING UNDER A GENIUS Exhibition shedding light on another side of the Golden Age master: Rembrandt as a teacher. Around 60 drawings and 20 paintings by artists including Nicolaes Maes, Heyman Dullaert and Arent de Gelder, brought together from major international museums and private collections, highlight Rembrandt’s special position as a highly sought-after teacher of students who wanted to continue their training after apprenticeships elsewhere. Rembrandt House Museum, until 17 May

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12/18/14 10:37

PART IV THE A-LIST.

GALLERIES 1. FRANK AMMERLAAN

In this second solo show by Ammerlaan a new body of work, including video, painting and sculpture, is brought together revolving around the complex relationship between faith and reason. Inspiration was found in Italy, Russia and Brazil, among others.

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UNTIL 14 MARCH Upstream Gallery Van Ostadestraat 294 Photo: Untitled, 2015 (studio shot). Courtesy Upstream Gallery

2. NOBUYOSHI ARAKI

Araki’s photographs are described as personal, erotic and touching and are often closely related to Tokyo’s surroundings and to the memories of his marriage to his late wife Yoko. Besides the retrospective and new work in photo museum Foam, you can see (and buy) Araki’s photos in Reflex.

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UNTIL 7 MARCH Galerie Alex Daniels-Reflex Amsterdam, Weteringschans 79A Photo: ARAKI Ojo Shashu – Photography for the After Life: Alluring Hell

3. ZBIGNIEW ROGALSKI

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Rogalski, who debuted around 2000, belongs to the most interesting representatives of a young Polish art generation. With the exemplification of visual illusion, such as reflection and obliteration, he is questioning reality and its mode of representation. UNTIL 7 MARCH Akinci, Lijnbaansgracht 317 Photo: Akinci

4. GROUP SHOW

Gallery Stigter Van Doesburg presents a group exhibition with Laurence Aëgerter, Bonno van Doorn, Brendan Heshka, Daniël van Straalen, Ole Ukena and Christoph Westermeier. The show is co-curated by Daniël van Straalen.

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UNTIL 7 MARCH Galerie Stigter Van Doesburg Elandstraat 90 Photo: Stigter Van Doesburg

5. HEDWIG HOUBEN

Houben’s work is about thinking and talking about processes of making. In an equally playful and critical way she attempts to explain the artistic process and characteristics of objects.

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UNTIL 7 MARCH Galerie Fons Welters Bloemstraat 140A Photo: Galerie Fons Welters Powered by Capital A www.amsterdamart.com

EXHIBITIONS & MUSEUMS ED ATKINS – RECENT OUIJA Another Amsterdam premiere as the Stedelijk Museum presents the Netherlands’ first solo exhibition of British artist Ed Atkins. Atkins is among the vanguard of ‘digital natives’ artists, making extensive use of cutting-edge digital technologies such as high-definition computer-generated imagery, surround soundtracking and extensive digital compositing. For the exhibition, the 1100-square-metre lower-level gallery in the new wing is transformed into an immersive environment of monumental operatic videos, collages and drawings. See page 17. Stedelijk Museum, until 31 May THE STEDELIJK MUSEUM & THE SECOND WORLD WAR Major exhibition exploring the wartime history of the museum based on recent research into the provenance of its artworks. Many moving and fascinating World War II stories emerged in the course of the research and these are now narrated using archive material and a selection of works from the museum’s collection. Wartime stories include those of collectors and artists – many of whom Jewish – who were forced to hand over their art; the transfer of the Stedelijk collection to a huge bunker near the sea with almost 500 other collections; and the museum’s involvement in helping the ‘Monuments Men’ to retrieve stolen art after the Netherlands was liberated. Stedelijk Museum, until 31 May JEWS IN THE CARIBBEAN. FOUR CENTURIES OF HISTORY IN SURINAM AND CURACAO With paintings, prints, ritual objects and ship models, numerous photographs and interviews, this exhibition tells the stories of the Jewish communities in the colonial tropics – countries such as Brazil, Curaçao and Surinam – societies in which plantations, slavery and the mixing of cultures played a large role. Jewish Historical Museum, until 14 Jun BODY ART Exploring the history, culture and identity politics of body art while looking at why people decorate their bodies using (for example) tattoos, piercings and make-up. This exhibition delves into the various meanings and functions of body art, the shifts in beauty ideals and the significance body modification can have in terms of social status or personal identity. Tropenmuseum, until 30 Aug A YEAR AT THE STEDELIJK: TINO SEHGAL The first major survey of the German/British artist Tino

Sehgal sees the Stedelijk present the live work of this radical artist non-stop for 365 days in a row. Conceived as a consecutive series of 12 presentations, the exhibition features different work from Sehgal’s oeuvre each month. Stedelijk Museum, until 31 Dec THE ATLASES Back in the 17th century, Dutch cartographers were considered the finest in all of Europe. Now some of their groundbreaking maps are set to appear in this unique long-running exhibition. Scheepvaartmuseum, ongoing THE INDUSTRIAL AGE The Amsterdam Museum dedicates an exhibition to the inventions and rapid developments of the 19th century – the so-called Industrial Age. Complaints about the Netherlands having become backward and ‘boorish’ were widely heard around the beginning of the 19th century. Its economic significance had declined dramatically. However, by the end of the century, the country had changed beyond recognition. Bridges, railways, roads and canals had been built, and Amsterdam had become the country’s capital. International trade and the arts and sciences flourished. Exhibits from various museums and archives from the Netherlands and beyond as well as historical images and memories and testimonials of contemporaries illustrate these turbulent times. Amsterdam Museum, 5 Mar-2 Aug COR JARING – THE MAGICAL CENTRE OF AMSTERDAM 1965-1975 Jaring (1936-2013), Amsterdammer through and through, worked as a dockworker before he became an internationally famed photographer. He would always photograph life as an adventure, which is fitting for his portraits of the Provo movement in the Amsterdam of the ’60s that are on display here. This exhibition runs alongside Cor was Here at Huis Marseille. See page 64. Amsterdam City Archives, 13 Mar-12 Jul COR WAS HERE Subtitled ‘The adventurous oeuvre of an Amsterdam photographer’ this exhibition is dedicated entirely to the Amsterdam-born-and-bred photographer Cor Jaring. From beginnings as a dockworker, Jaring became internationally renowned for his work. He would always photograph life as an adventure, using his own lively personality as a prime example. The exhibition includes a large selection of works from his private archive, including pictures capturing his travels in Japan. Also check out the

exhibition at the Amsterdam City Archives, focusing on his photographs of Amsterdam in the ’60s and ’70s. Huis Marseille, 14 Mar-28 Jun REGINE PETERSEN – FIND A FALLEN STAR The German photographer explores stories of meteorite falls all over the world, including a rock crashing through the roof of an Alabama home in the ’50s, a group of children recovering a meteorite in their village in post-war Germany and a more recent event in India. Petersen has met with eyewitnesses and complements her photographs with documents and interviews. Foam, 20 Mar-3 May GEERT GOIRIS – FLASHBULB MEMORIES, ASH GREY PROPHECIES The Belgian photographer’s layered photographs of sublime landscapes, modernist architecture and enigmatic people are combined in a way that leaves the viewer experiencing an overbearing atmosphere. See page 19. Foam, 20 Mar-24 May BROOMBERG & CHANARIN – TO PHOTOGRAPH THE DETAILS OF A DARK HORSE IN LOW LIGHT Exhibition of work by London-based duo Adam Broomberg and Oliver Chanarin, recent winners of the prestigious Deutsche Börse Photography Prize. Their work takes an attractive, conceptual approach to exploring themes including conflict and race. Foam, 20 Mar-3 Jun THE OASIS OF MATISSE The first Dutch survey exhibition of work by Henri Matisse in more than 60 years comes to Amsterdam. Matisse (1869-1954) always sought to evoke brightness and joy with the simplest possible means, yet his work takes many forms, has an abundance of motifs and uses various media: nudes, potted plants, idyllic landscapes; colourful fabrics, carpets and, of course, his famous cut-outs. At the heart of this retrospective is one of the Stedelijk’s most popular Matisse works: the monumental cut-out ‘The Parakeet and the Mermaid’. The iconic artwork is presented alongside other cut-outs and rarely-exhibited works in fabric and stained glass. See page 16. Stedelijk Museum, 27 Mar-16 Aug ALEXANDER, NAPOLEON & JOSÉPHINE Subtitled ‘A Story of Friendship, War and Art’, this exhibition focuses on Napoleon Bonaparte and two of his exceptional and very different contemporaries: Tsar Alexander I (his friend and enemy) and Joséphine, his wife. See page 24. Hermitage Amsterdam, 28 Mar-8 Nov

mar & apr 2015

Choice exhibits

GEELVINCK HINLOPEN HOUSE A decadent canal-side mansion showcasing 17th-century patrician wealth, located on the Golden Bend of the grandest canal of all, the Herengracht. Highlights include ornamental gardens as well as sumptuous themed salons.

EYE Filmmuseum IJpromenade 1 www.eyefilm.nl Foam Keizersgracht 609 http://foam.org Geelvinck Hinlopen House ROYAL PALACE Keizersgracht 633 The Koninklijk Paleis (Royal http://geelvinck.nl Palace) on Amsterdam’s Dam Van Gogh Museum Square is one of three palaces Paulus Potterstraat 7 HET GRACHTENHUIS still in use by the Dutch royal www.vangoghmuseum.nl (MUSEUM OF THE CANALS) family. It is used for state visits, Het Grachtenhuis award ceremonies and other (Museum of the Canals) A tribute to the Canal District, official receptions. When the Herengracht 386 with multimedia exhibitits palace is not being used by the http://hetgrachtenhuis.nl showing how the engineering royal family, it is open to the Hermitage Amsterdam marvel was built on swamppublic. Visitors can explore Amstel 51 land during the 17th-century the magnificent interior and www.hermitage.nl expansion. discover the rich history of the Hollandse Schouwburg HORTUS BOTANICUS building. Plantage Middenlaan 24 ARAKI OJO SHASHU – PHOTOGRAPHY FOR THE AFTER www.hollandscheschouwburg.nl For nearly four centuries, AmSTEDELIJK MUSEUM Hortus Botanicus sterdam’s Hortus Botanicus has LIFE: ALLURING HELL The museum’s permanent colPlantage Middenlaan 2a regaled visitors with its lush The first major retrospective of work by acclaimed lection is now on display in the http://dehortus.nl greenhouses and exotic plants. photographer Nobuyoshi Araki, one of the most celebrated beautifully restored historical Houseboat Museum Originally founded in 1638 to Japanese artists of our time. Best known for his focus on the building, with fixed spots for Prinsengracht 296 K serve as a herb garden for the intertwining themes of life (sex) and death, Araki’s works highlights such as ‘The Beanwww.houseboatmuseum.nl city’s doctors and pharmacists, range from being personal and sentimental to anarchistic ery’ by Edward Kienholz and Huis Marseille it’s one of the oldest botanical works by Willem de Kooning Keizersgracht 401 gardens in the world. and vulgar. This exhibition includes several series never and Andy Warhol. Half of the www.huismarseille.nl before displayed in the Netherlands. Foam, until 11 Mar HOUSEBOAT MUSEUM ground floor is reserved for Imagine IC Frankemaheerd 2 Located in the Hendrika Maria, the best pieces from the design collection. www.imagineic.nl a former freighter moored on Jewish Historical Museum the Prinsengracht,the HouseTROPENMUSEUM Nieuwe Amstelstraat 1 boat Museum gives fun insight The ‘Museum of the Tropics’ www.jhm.nl into life on Amsterdam’s canals Museum Van Loon – a uniquely Dutch way of life. has eight geographically themed permanent exhibitions and an Keizersgracht 672 MUSEUM VAN LOON ongoing series of temporary www.museumvanloon.nl presentations, including both Mediamatic Fabriek Closed for renovation. See the modern and traditional visual VOC-kade 10 photgraphy collection in Foam. arts and photographic work. www.mediamatic.net The Van Loons belonged to REMBRANDT, ANATOMISCHE De Nieuwe Kerk the city’s governing elite, and LES VAN DR. JAN DEIJMAN WILLET-HOLTHUYSEN Dam square were among the founders of (FRAGMENT),1656 MUSEUM www.nieuwekerk.nl the mighty Dutch East India The only completely period Ons’ Lieve Heer Op Solder Company back in 1602. The GRAND PARADE ART PORTRAIT GALLERY OF furnished canal-side house in (Our Lord in the Attic) collection comprises paintings, INSTALLATION THE GOLDEN AGE Amsterdam open daily to the Oudezijds Voorburgwal 40 antique furnishings and Acclaimed Asian artist A collaboration public, with a remarkable colwww.opsolder.nl objects d’art. Jompet Kuswidananto between the Hermitage, lection of Golden Age art and Rembrandthuis created this unique art Amsterdam Museum and ONS’ LIEVE HEER OP silverware. Jodenbreestraat 4 SOLDER (OUR LORD IN installation especially for the Rijksmuseum, this www.rembrandthuis.nl ADDRESSES THE ATTIC) Rijksmuseum the Tropenmuseum (the exhibition features an Allard Pierson Museum Jan Luijkenstraat 1 This clandestine church in a ‘Museum of the Tropics’), impressive selection of Oude Turfmarkt 127 www.rijksmuseum.nl 17th-century canal house attic bringing together dozens more than 30 huge 17thwww.allardpiersonmuseum.nl Royal Palace Amsterdam dates back to the Reformation, of his famous mechanical and 18th-century group Amsterdam City Archives Dam square when Catholics were not perfigures to form an impresportraits, many of which Vijzelstraat 32 www.paleisamsterdam.nl mitted to practice their faith sive theatrical artwork. haven’t been on public Het Scheepvaartmuseum in public. Today, it’s one of the http://stadsarchief.amsterdam.nl Complete with drums, display for decades. Works Amsterdam Expo (National Maritime Musuem) city’s most unique attractions Gustav Mahlerlaan 24 Kattenburgerplein 1 in the heart of the Red Light weapons and horses, selected for the exhibition www.amsterdamexpo.nl www.hetscheepvaartmuseum.nl District. Kuswidananto’s figures include some of the largest Amsterdam Museum Stedelijk Museum assemble in a ‘square’ in created during the Dutch REMBRANDTHUIS Kalverstraat 92 Museumplein 10 the museum, springing into Golden Age, painted by http://amsterdammuseum.nl http://stedelijk.nl The house that Rembrandt life in a spectacular Grand artists such as Rembrandt, Anne Frank House Tropenmuseum called home for nearly 20 years Parade performance. Not Govert Flinck and Nicolaes Prinsengracht 263-267 Linnaeusstraat 2 boasts an impressive collection to be missed. Pickenoy. www.annefrank.org www.tropenmuseum.nl of drawings and paintings by de Appel arts centre Willet-Holthuysen Museum the Old Master himself as well Tropenmuseum, until Hermitage Amsterdam, Prins Hendrikkade 142 Herengracht 605 as by his contemporaries. The 22 Mar Until 31 Dec 2016 www.deappel.nl www.willetholthuysen.nl Rembrandthuis is also home to Museum of Bags & Purses 290 of Rembrandt’s etchings – a advert controversial exhibition of Herengracht 573 near complete collection – and human specimens including www.tassenmuseum.nl an alternating selection is on whole-body plastinates, organs Biblical Museum permanent display. PERMANENT and translucent body slices Herengracht 366-368 EXHIBITIONS RIJKSMUSEUM takes up permanent residence www.bijbelsmuseum.nl in central Amsterdam. Body Worlds After a decade of unprecedentANNE FRANK HOUSE Featuring an extensive Damrak 66 ed renovation, the Rijksmuseselection of authentic human http://bodyworlds.nl Prinsengracht 263 is where um finally showed off its new specimens, the emphasis De Brakke Grond Anne Frank lived in hiding (and old) look in April 2013. of this exhibition is on the Nes 45 with her family for more Visit the state museum and various aspects of life. www.brakkegrond.nl than two years during World embark on a journey through Cobra Museum War II. Now converted into Dutch art and history from the EYE FILM MUSEUM Sandbergplein 1, Amstelveen a museum, it contains a Middle Ages and Renaissance Cinematography museum www.cobra-museum.nl sobering exhibition about the right up until the 20th century home to an internationally Dutch Press Museum persecution of the Jews and A not-to-be-missed experience. Zeeburgerkade 10 persecution in a wider context. renowned collection of films HET SCHEEPVAART covering the whole history http://persmuseum.nl BODY WORLDS MUSEUM (NATIONAL of cinema, from the first Dutch Resistance Museum MARITIME MUSEUM) 23, 30 APR silent movies to the latest Plantage Kerklaan 61 After captivating visitors contemporary productions. www.verzetsmuseum.org the world over, the oftThe National Maritime MuSURTITLED IN ENGLISH © ELISAH JACOBS

seum comprises a series of small exhibitions exploring various elements of maritime life. Moored outside is the Amsterdam, an exact replica of a famous Dutch East India Company ship.

NORA

A-LIST. PART IV THE A-LIST

STAGE THEATRE, DANCE & COMEDY COMEDY: THE SEVEN DEADLY DUTCH SINS The Amsterdam comedy troupe explores life in Dutchland even further! As they note: ‘We’ve been living and working here, observing, interpreting and gathering material for more than 20 years. Now we get into the national psyche and make fun of things you never noticed, or never questioned.’ Along the way they touch on Dutch birthdays, weddings, the royals, health service and more. Every Thur, Boom Chicago, 20.30, €11-€36.50 COMEDY: EASYLAUGHS This international comedy group performs a hilarious, hi-octane, completely improvised show at the CREA Café every Friday night. There’s also an early bird show, guest performers from around the world, various formats, themes and open podiums. Every Fri, CREA Café, 20.00 & 21.00, €5-€10 COMEDY: SHOT OF IMPROV Shot of Improv sees the entire Boom Chicago cast take to the stage, so the laughs are guaranteed to keep on comin’. Completely different each week, it’s a show that starts big and never slows down. Every Sat, Boom Chicago, 22.30, €14 THEATRE: ANNE This ongoing production is directly based on the Diary of Anne Frank and the Frank family archives. ANNE explores Anne Frank’s life before her family went into hiding, gives an impression of what life was like in the annex and provides an insight into what happened after the family was discovered. Although this grand production is in Dutch, a dedicated translation system is available in seven languages. Various dates & times in Mar & Apr, Theater Amsterdam, €20-€75 COMEDY: 21 YEARS OF MOCKERY Incorporating high-tech tools and live music, 21 Years of Mockery examines the culture clash that happens when American comedians set up in advert

ANTIGONE 15 – 18 APR PERFORMED IN ENGLISH

Amsterdam. The resulting show is two hours of laughs and edgeof-the-seat improvisation. You say it, they make fun of it: the essential ingredient embraced by this comedy theatre for 21 years now. Various dates & times in Mar & Apr, Boom Chicago, €11-€36.50 COMEDY: SMART PHONES, DUMB PEOPLE! A new collection of Boom Chicago’s favourite scenes plus brand new improvisations with a focus on high-tech comedy. The show traces life from the Nokia 3310 to the iPhone 6; from Snake to Candy Crush; from MySpace to Instagram. Various dates & times in Mar & Apr, Boom Chicago, €11-€36.50 VIDEO/PERFORMANCE: FIVE TRUTHS Designed by artist Katie Mitchell in collaboration with London’s Victoria and Albert Museum and the National Theatre, this video installation was inspired by five of the 20th century’s most influential theatre directors including Stanislavski, Artaud and Brecht. It explores their contrasting styles and examines how Mitchell imagines each would direct an actress playing Ophelia in the infamous ‘mad scene’ from Hamlet. The installation can be experienced at Stadsschouwburg over the coming period, acting as an introduction to Mitchell’s own Brandstichter series. Until Sat 4 Apr, Stadsschouwburg, open to anyone with tickets for a performance DANCE: KING OF THE KIDZ & SPIN-OFF FINALS Let battle commence as Melkweg hosts a day of workshops, showcases and, well, battles with b-boys, poppers, lockers, hip-hop and house dancers. Sun 1 Mar, Melkweg, 11.30, €23.50 OPERA: ALCINA George Frideric Händel’s 1735 operatic masterpiece returns to the stage, following the adventures of Alcina, an enchantress with a complicated love life. She gets much more than she bargained for when she sets her sights on the dashing knight Ruggiero. Sun 1 Mar, Stadsschouwburg, 13.30, €15-€138 BALLET: SWAN LAKE The ‘ballet of all ballets’ returns to Amsterdam as the Dutch National Ballet performs the much-loved work. Swan Lake, from 1895, is one of the ‘big three’ of Russian 19th-century ballets, alongside The Sleeping Beauty and The Nutcracker. The romantic story of love and deception, combined with Tchaikovsky’s beautiful, famous score, continues to enchant new generations of audiences. The Dutch National Ballet performs the version by its former artistic director Rudi van Dantzig. Sun 1-Sun 8 Mar, Dutch National Opera & Ballet, various times, €15-€79

Choice theatre

Northern province of Friesland – the home of speed skating, cows and a flag proudly adorned in spanked bums. Tue 10 Mar, Boom Chicago, 20.30, €16 INTERVIEW: AN EVENING WITH… KATIE MITCHELL Each year, the Stadsschouwburg’s Brandstichter (‘firestarter’) series features one theatre-maker who’s been making waves, and in 2015 it’s British director Katie Mitchell. Tonight she talks about her themes, sources and inspiration. Sun 15 Mar, Stadsschouwburg, 20.30, €15

THEATRE: QUEEN LEAR This King Lear is a queen, and she sits at the head of a family-owned multinational. In Flemish writer Tom Lanoye’s adaptation of Shakespeare’s play, the tragedy begins as the queen announces her plan to split ownership of the company between her three sons. The title role in this case was written especially for Frieda Pittoors, one of the grand dames of Dutch and Flemish theatre. Performances are in Dutch but surtitled in English on 12 March and 9 & 16 April. Thur 12 Mar, 9 & 16 Apr, Stadsschouwburg, 20.00, €20-€32.50

THEATRE: ANTIGONE French actress Juliette Binoche plays Sophocles’ Antigone, in a production by the Barbican in London and directed by Toneelgroep Amsterdam’s Ivo van Hove. Penned by TS Eliot Prize-winning poet Anne Carson, it’s a production of the highest quality in every respect. Wed 15-Sat 18 Apr, Stadsschouwburg, various times, €15-€50 DANCE: SCAPINO BALLET ROTTERDAM – SONGS FOR DRELLA Set to Lou Reed and John Cale’s ode to Andy Warhol, this production has earned Scapino plenty of praise. The choreography by Ed Wubbe and Marco Goecke is inspired by Reed and Cale’s live performance of the album. See page 19. Tue 3 & Wed 4 Mar, Stadsschouwburg, 20.30, €10-€37.50 OPERA: THE MAGIC FLUTE With this production, director Simon McBurney has made Mozart’s much-loved opera entirely his own. And successfully so: it’s reprised after an unusually short time due to its popularity. The opera is performed in German with English and Dutch surtitles. Wed 4-Fri 27 Mar, Dutch National Opera & Ballet, 19.30, €15-€171 VARIETY: LA VERITÀ This fantastic and poetic circus theatre show by Swiss director

COMEDY: AL MURRAY UK stand-up superstar and newly minted politician Al Murray, aka ‘The Pub Landlord’, is heading to Amsterdam to lay down the law. The comedy character has been morphing through stage and TV performances for some 20 years now, but the laughs remain cuttingly relevant. Sun 19 Apr, Boom Chicago, 20.30, €17.50-€25 Daniele Finzi Pasca and his Compagnia Finzi Pasca is an homage to Salvador Dalí. With some Italian dialogue and Dutch surtitles. Thur 5-Sun 8 Mar, Royal Theatre Carré, various times, €18-€45 THEATRE: ATMEN Part of the Katie Mitchell Brandstichter series, this production by the Berlin company Schaubühne am Lehniner Platz focuses on an environmentally conscious couple that struggles with the compatibility of their planet-saving ways and their wish for a child. During the performance, the actors generate electricity on exercise bikes. The performance is in German with Dutch surtitles. Mon 9 & Tue 10 Mar, Stadsschouwburg, 20.30, €10-€35 COMEDY: HOW TO BE FRISIAN This new show sees Greg Shapiro elaborate on his views about the land and culture of the

DANCE: KM29 – DURAMADRE As part of the Stadsschouwburg’s Get Lost series, which highlights the work of young international dance companies, the Argentinean multidisciplinary collective KM29 stops off in Amsterdam. Tue 17 March, Stadsschouwburg, 20.30, €10-€32.50 DANCE: MODERNLIVE On the bill tonight: choreographer Ed Wubbe’s masterpiece Death and the Maiden. Schubert’s famous string quartet is performed live by the Van Dingstee Quartet and musicians from the Gelders Orkest. American choreographer Lucinda Childs has created a new choreography to Simon ten Holt’s Canto Ostinato, which has its world premiere tonight. Wed 18 Mar, Stadsschouwburg, 20.30, €10-€37.50 THEATRE: ALLES WEITERE KENNEN SIE AUS DEM KINO This production by the Hamburg Schauspielhaus sees Katie Mitchell direct Martin Crimp’s radical adaptation of the Euripides play The Phoenician Women. The play deals with wars and their consequences: 12 young women are trapped in a house in the aftermath of Oedipus’s sons killing each other in the war over the rule over Thebes. Part of the Brandstichter series; the performance is in German with Dutch surtitles. Fri 20-Sun 22 Mar, Stadsschouwburg, various times, €20-€27.50 COMEDY: AMSTERDAM ENGLISH COMEDY NIGHTS This regular series returns in March and April, this time with headliners Maria Shehata (Egypt/US) and Joe Eagan (Canada) on 20 March and Jorund Larsen (Norway) and Paul Salamone (US) on 24 April. Fri 20 Mar & Fri 24 Apr, Boom Chicago, 22.30, €12-€21 MUSICAL: THE MUSIC OF QUEEN Just a couple of months after Brian May and Roger Taylor stopped off at Ziggo Dome, this theatrical tribute is also hitting town. The festivities are led by Joseph Clark, who’s performed Queen and Freddie Mercury’s biggest hits all around the world over the past decade. Fri 20-Sun 22 Mar, RAI Theater, various times, €47.50-€65

mar & apr 2015

STAGE OPERA: CARMEN Bizet’s masterpiece is performed in all its glory by the Tatarstan State Opera. Sung in French with Dutch surtitles. Sun 22 Mar, Meervaart, 14.30, €34-€39 THEATRE: MEDEA The celebrated Australian director Simon Stone’s adaptation of the Euripides tragedy moves the action to the ’90s and gels it with the true story of an American woman, a successful doctor, who killed her children. Performances are in Dutch but surtitled in English on 26 March. Thur 26 Mar, Stadsschouwburg, 20.00, €17.50-€32.50 THEATRE: GLÜCKLICHE TAGE This production by the Hamburg Schauspielhaus sees Katie Mitchell direct Beckett’s Happy Days. Part of the Katie Mitchell Brandstichter series; the performance is in German with Dutch surtitles. Thur 2-Sat 4 Apr, Stadsschouwburg, various times, €20€32.50 MUSICAL: THE BEATLES SHOW Fifty years on, relive Beatlemania in this theatrical performance by Liverpool’s own The Cavern Beatles. They’ll take you through the rock’n’roll and pop hits by the Fab Four, brought to life in colourful style with costume changes, fantastic musicianship and plenty of humour. Fri 3-Sun 5 Apr, RAI Theater, various times, €47.50-€59.50 OPERA: MACBETH Love, rather than revenge, is the most common theme in classic operas. Verdi’s Macbeth is, of course, an exception. Performed in Italian with English and Dutch surtitles. Fri 3-Tue 28 Apr, Dutch National Opera & Ballet, various times, €15-€160 DANCE: SYMPHYSIS The NDT2 dances works by Jiri Pokorný, Edward Clug, Alexander Ekman and Johan Inger. Sat 4-Sun 5 Apr, Stadsschouwburg, 20.30, €10-€40 PERFORMANCE: RUPAUL’S DRAG RACE It’s glitter, fake lashes and glamour galore as a flutter of queens battles it out at the Amsterdam stop-off of the TV show. Fri 10 Apr, Melkweg, 20.00, €25 DANCE: INSIDE OUT A grand production featuring a large ensemble consisting of both established and up-andcoming dancers, live music by a new group and a spectacular stage set by Conny Janssen Danst. Fri 10-Sat 11 Apr, Stadsschouwburg, 20.30, €10-€37.50 BALLET: LA DAME AUX CAMÉLIAS John Neumeier’s ballet Lady of the Camellias, set to music by Chopin, is one of the most important narrative ballets written in the last 50 years. It’s

FILM FAVOURITES a retelling Alexandre Dumas’ tragic story of the consumption-ridden courtesan that falls in love, which was also the basis for Verdi’s La Traviata. See page 23. Fri 10-Sun 26 Apr, Dutch National Opera & Ballet, various times, €15-€82 THEATRE: NORA For her performance as Ibsen’s tragic heroine, Halina Reijn won the Theo d’Or, the Netherlands’ most prestigious award for actors, in 2013. Performances are in Dutch but surtitled in English on 23 and 30 April. Thur 23 & Thur 30 Apr, Stadsschouwburg, 20.30, €10-€35.50 DANCE: STRONG LANGUAGE The Nederlands Dans Theater performs a choreography by Hans van Manen. Kleines Requiem is a work for seven dancers, set to music by the Polish composer Henryk Mikolaj Górecki. Also on the bill: a new work by Crystal Pite, and Sara by Sharon Eyal and DJ Gai Behar, who are making waves in Israel’s dance world. The piece is set to a hypnotic electronic composition. Thur 23-Sat 25 Apr, Stadsschouwburg, 20.00, €22.50-€40 COMEDY: GREG SHAPIRO – PART-TIME HYPOCRITE Amsterdam’s American local proclaims his views on his adopted and his birth country in a lightning-fast cabaret show. Fri 24 Apr, Meervaart, 20.30, €10 ADDRESSES Boom Chicago Rozentheater, Rozengracht 117 020 423 0101 www.boomchicago.nl CREA Theater Nieuwe Achtergracht 170 020 525 1400, www.crea.uva Dutch National Opera & Ballet Amstel 3, 020 625 5455 www.operaballet.nl DeLaMarTheater Marnixstraat 404, 0900 3352627 http://delamar.nl Frascati Nes 63, 020 626 6866 www.theaterfrascati.nl The John Adams Institute West-Indisch Huis Herenmarkt 97, 020 624 7280 www.john-adams.nl Meervaart Meer en Vaart 300 020 410 7777, www.meervaart.nl Pathé Tuschinski Reguliersbreestraat 26-34 www.pathe.nl RAI Theater Europaplein, 020 549 1212 www.raitheater.nl Royal Theater Carré Amstel 115/125 0900 2525255, https://carre.nl Stadsschouwburg Leidseplein 26, 020 624 2311 www.stadsschouwburg amsterdam.nl Theater Amsterdam Danzigerkade 5 www.theateramsterdam.nl Toomler Breitnerstraat 2, 020 670 7400 www.toomler.nl

AMERICAN SNIPER

Navy SEAL Chris Kyle (Bradley Cooper) is the best of the best: with 160 confirmed kills after four tours of duty, he’s the most lethal sniper in US military history. But what do you do if you can’t leave the war behind? Nominated for six Oscars. Direction: Clint Eastwood Release: 5 March

CHAPPIE

Nature or nurture? Just after birth Chappie is kidnapped and ‘adopted’ by a dysfunctional gangster family (Ninja & Yolandi Visser, of the South African rap-rave group Die Antwoord). He’s smart. He’s perceptive. He’s also a robot. Third feature film of the director of District 9 and Elysium. Direction: Neil Blomkamp Release: 5 March

CINEDANS

Yes! It’s time for Cinedans again, the biggest dance-film festival in the world. This 12th edition will include Point Taken 5 – where danceand filmmakers team up to make a short dance film – a documentary on dance master Jirí Kylián and the premiere of Symmetry, the first fiction film shot at CERN, home of the Large Hadron Collider.

KIDNAPPING FREDDY HEINEKEN

Agreed, remakes usually don’t tend to be an improvement on the original, but Kidnapping Freddy Heineken does have redeeming features: Anthony Hopkins plays Dutch beer baron Freddy Heineken; Jim Sturgess and Sam Worthington play two of the kidnappers. Direction: Daniel Alfredson Release: 26 March

CINEMASIA

Cinemasia is all grown up. After many comfortable years at De Balie it was time to find a bigger nest. Opening film will be Wolf Totem by JeanJacques Annaud (The Name of the Rose), about a Beijing student who is sent to live among nomadic herdsmen in Mongolia. Special focus this year will be on Korean New-Wave female power producers. 1-6 April, Kriterion, www.cinemasia.nl

FRANK

Meet Frank, the charismatic and mysterious lead singer of an eccentric pop band… with a papier-mâché head. Not impressed? The character of Frank is loosely based on an actual person, Chris Sievey (aka Frank Sidebottom), and is played by a pretty well-known A-list actor.

11-15 March, EYE, www.cinedans.nl

Direction: Lenny Abrahamson Release: 9 April

PINK FILM DAYS

JIMI: ALL IS BY MY SIDE

Don’t miss the Pink Film Days, with 120 films from over 38 countries. Opening film is Lilting, in which a Chinese Cambodian mother and a young gay man (Ben Whishaw) unexpectedly find comfort in their grief over her dead son. 12-22 March Het Ketelhuis & Westergastheater www.rozefilmdagen.nl

STILL ALICE

Most of her characters are tragically flawed, but we’ve never seen Julianne Moore quite as vulnerable as in Still Alice, where she plays a linguistics professor suffering from early-onset Alzheimer’s. Will she finally bag an Oscar for Best Actress? We certainly hope so! Alec Baldwin, Kate Bosworth and Kristen Stewart co-star. Direction: Wash Westmoreland & Richard Glatzer Release: 12 March

As far as biopics go, it’s certainly an interesting choice. Director John Ridley decided to show not the glory days of Jimi Hendrix (a strong performance by OutKast’s André Benjamin) but the moment just before he rose to stardom. A nuanced and honest portrait of the man before the myth. Direction: John Ridley Release: 23 April

KNIGHT OF CUPS

Some filmmakers shroud their work in mystery; Terrence Malick shrouds them in contemplation. Will Knight of Cups, about an LA screenwriter (Christian Bale) who despairs at the emptiness of his Hollywood life, be a companion piece to David Cronenberg’s cynical Maps to the Stars? We’ll just have to wait and see. Direction: Terrence Malick Release: 23 April

PART IV THE A-LIST.

SPORTS EVENTS FRIDAY NIGHT SKATE Get your skates on for the weekly Friday Night Skate, an institution in Amsterdam! Departing from the Vondelpark, the skating routes take in all areas of the city. Every Friday, Vondelpark Pavilion, www.fridaynightskate. com. 20.30, free MOKUMSE VROUWENLOOP Help celebrate International Women’s Day at this all-lady running event that features 2.5km, 5km and 7.5km courses as well as a mother-daughter warm-up circuit of the athletics track. Sun 8 Mar, Sportpark Ookmeer, Willinklaan 7, www. aacamsterdam.nl. Various times & prices AJAX V EXCELSIOR After two years away from the Eredivisie, Excelsior are back in the Dutch top flight. As you might expect, this team enjoys close bonds with fellow Rotterdam club Feyenoord. Sun 8 Mar, Amsterdam ArenA, ArenA Boulevard, www.amsterdamarena.nl. 14.30, various prices HISWA This annual fair is the ideal start to the new season for water-sports fanatics, featuring hundreds of boats, informative workshops and the latest gadgets on the market. Younger visitors are also invited to get their feet wet at the Water Fun Zone, offering the chance to go water-skiing, canoeing, sailing and plenty more. Wed 11-Sun 15 Mar, Amsterdam RAI, Europaplein, www.hiswarai.nl. Various times & prices FRIDAY NIGHT RUN Organised by the Phanos athletics association every second Friday of the month, this free group running event is open to both recreational and more serious sportsters. Beginners can join in the 40-minute run at a slower tempo and there’s also the standard one-hour run. Fri 13 Mar & 10 Apr, Olympic Stadium, www.friday nightrun.nl. 19.30, free LOUIS VINKLOOP The second event in the Rondje Mokum (Amsterdam Circuit) programme of running competitions. Alongside the professional 10km event, there’s also a 5km and 10km event for recreational runners, all weaving their way through urban and countryside areas of the northern district of Amsterdam. And for younger runners aged between seven and 12, there’s a special 1km event. Sun 15 Mar, AV Atos, Sportpark Elzenhagen, www.louis vinkloop.nl. Various times & prices. AJAX V ADO DEN HAAG Feyenoord isn’t the only club that loves to win against Ajax Amsterdam: there’s also a

strong element of rivalry between Ajax and ADO Den Haag, and this is one of the matches of the season for this team from The Hague. Last season, the match at the ArenA ended 3-2 for the home side. Sun 22 Mar, Amsterdam ArenA, ArenA Boulevard, www.amsterdamarena.nl. 16.45, various prices BRETTENLOOP This will be the sixth edition of this running competition organised in and around De Bretten nature reserve in Amsterdam West. Starting and finishing at the Westergasfabriek, choose from 5km and 10km courses or go for broke with the half marathon. Kids can also get involved with the 1km sponsored children’s run. Sun 22 Mar, Westergasfabriek, www.brettenloop.nl. Various times & prices

AMSTERDAM DIVING CUP Watch the world’s best divers make a splash at the 20th edition of this international diving tournament. Thur 16-Sun 19 Apr, Sloterparkbad, www.amsterdamdiv ingcup.nl. Times & prices TBA HARLEM GLOBETROTTERS The Harlem Globetrotters put on an exciting show for the whole family as they battle the Washington Generals. Expect plenty of basketball wizardry, amazing rim-rattling dunks and trick shots. Fri 17 Apr, Topsportcentrum Almere, www.harlemglobe trotters.com. 20.00, €27.50

a special national day of celebration, games and health. Fri 24 April, various locations, www.koningsspelen.nl. Various times, free

LOCATIONS KLIMHAL AMSTERDAM The perfect place for the beginner and the advanced climber. Its main wall is 21 metres high, with a climbing surface of more than 2,300m2. Naritaweg 48, www.klimhal amsterdam.nl. Various times & prices DE KLIMMUUR Rock climbing in the centre of

Highlight sports

FRIDAY NIGHT RUN NIEUW-WEST Organised by the AAC athletics association, the route varies each edition and there are two groups to join: one departing for a 30-minute run and another that takes on the more challenging one-hour variant. Fri 27 Mar & 24 Apr, Sportpark Ookmeer, Willinklaan 7, www.aacamsterdam.nl. 19.30, free ELECTRIC RUN Take on a 5km evening running course through an electric wonderland packed with music and mesmerising light shows. Grab your most colourful, luminescent outfit before running, dancing or skipping your way around the course and celebrating your sporting success at the after-party. Sat 28 Mar, Olympic Stadium, www.electricrun.nl/amster dam. 19.00, €29.50-€37.50 ROKJESDAGLOOP The late Dutch author and columnist Martin Bril provided the inspiration for this annual running event when he coined the term rokjesdag (literally ‘short dress day’) for the first day of the year on which women switch en masse from winter to summer clothes. An ode to the beginning of spring, the event now invites female runners to take on a 5km or 10km course while there’s also a 1km run for youngsters. Mon 6 Apr, Amsterdam Science Park/Flevopark, www.rokjes dagloop.nl. Various times & prices. NESCIOLOOP The next instalment of the Rondje Mokum (Amsterdam Circuit) takes running enthusiasts to Amsterdam Oost. Starting and finishing at the AV’23 athletics club grounds, the event includes two passings over the Nesciobrug and trails through the charming Diemerpark. If 15km seems like a bit of a stretch, you can also take on the 7.5km version: half the distance but certainly not half the fun. Sun 12 Apr, AV’23, Radioweg 89, www.nescioloop.nl. Various times & prices.

HEAD OF THE RIVER AMSTEL Rowing regattas are always exciting affairs, but as the Oxford-Cambridge Boat Race in England proves, nothing quite captures the sporting public’s imagination like rowers leaving behind their dedicated track venues and taking to unpredictable river waters. Whether you’re competing, watching from the banks in the city or following the action from start to finish by biking with the rowers, it’s a remarkable river spectacle. Sat 21 & Sun 22 Mar, River Amstel, Amsterdam (to Ouderkerk), www.headoftheriver.nl/en. Time TBA, free to watch NATIONAL SPORTS WEEK Held annually in April, National Sports Week sees hundreds of sports clubs, businesses and organisations encourage you to get a sweat going by hosting special tournaments, introductory clinics and demonstrations. From Sat 18 Apr, various locations, www.nationalesport week.nl. Various times, free AJAX V NAC BREDA NAC Breda makes the trip from the south of the Netherlands to the capital for this Sunday afternoon duel. Interesting not-football-related fact: the unabbreviated name of the club is the second longest in the world. Sun 19 Apr, Amsterdam ArenA, Amsterdam Boulevard, www. amsterdamarena.nl. 14.30, various prices KING’S GAMES More than 1.5 million children at 7,500 schools around the nation engage in sports and exercise together as part of the King’s Games (Koningsspelen). On this special occasion, the King’s Games replace their regular lessons and kids can enjoy

Amsterdam. Enjoy a fun and safe event for beginners, or a more challenging climb for experienced rock hoppers. Various courses are available. Dijksgracht 2, www.deklim muur.nl. Various times & prices KNIJN BOWLING Ten-pin bowling for everyone: suitable for family events, 50+, beginners or competitive players. One of its most popular occasions is Disco Bowling. Scheldeplein 3, www.knijnbowl ing.nl. Various times & prices LASERCITY AMSTERDAM Less painful than paintballing, but certainly no less fun, the laser gaming adventures on offer here are perfect for large and small group outings. VOC-kade 14, www.laser gamenamsterdam.nl. Various times & prices SKI INN AMSTERDAM Whether you’re looking to warm up for a winter vacation or just curious to try your hand at a spot of skiing or snowboarding, you can do just that in the heart

of Amsterdam. The indoor rolling slopes are adaptable for all skill levels. WG Plein 281, www.ski-inn.nl. Various times & prices SLOTEN GOLF COURSE This nine-hole golf course on the outskirts of Amsterdam features both wooded and water areas. Head on to the fairway or practice your swing at the driving range. Day memberships are available. Sloterweg 1045, www.golf baansloten.nl. Open Mon-Fri 08.30-18.00, various prices

WELLNESS THE CITY STREET SPA British expat Chantal Naughton’s powder blue boutique spa is a favourite with the city’s Canal Belt clique and discerning expats, but the aestheticians at this urban retreat make everyone feel welcome. The OPI Pedicure soothes tired shopping feet and the ‘non-surgical facelift’ performs miracles. Prinsengracht 764, http://thecitystreetspa.com KOAN FLOAT If gently submerging yourself in warm salt water sounds like heaven to you, then head to Koan Float in the city centre. Here you can leave the real world behind as you experience the tranquillity of a floatation tank or a wide variety of massage sessions. Herengracht 321, www.koan float.nl. Various times & prices THE ORIGINAL DR FISH The feeling of fish nibbling at your hands and feet may feel a little strange at first, but you’ll soon discover just how relaxing it is. It’s the ultimate treatment for clean, soft hands. Van Baerlestraat 45, www.the original-drfish.nl. Various times & prices SAUNA DECO AMSTERDAM Enjoy the lounge rooms, pleasant atmosphere and all the facilities you require for a day of luxury. And as you can guess from its name, the sauna is styled in historic and beautiful art deco pieces, transporting its guests to a bygone era. Herengracht 115, www.sauna deco.nl. Various times & prices SENTO SPA AND HEALTH CLUB At Sento you can find complete professional supervision and personal training for every requirement. Enjoy the spa and beauty facilities or go for a swim in the pool. Marnixplein 1, www.sento.nl. Various times & prices SPA ZUIVER With facilities including saunas, baths, hammam treatments, relaxation chambers, sports, swimming pool and dining and hotel options, it’s perfect for anyone looking to relax and recharge. Please note: clothing is not obligatory. Koenenkade 8, www.spazuiver. nl. Various times & prices

mar & apr 2015

KIDS & FAMILY advertorial

VENUES AMSTERDAM DUNGEON The Amsterdam Dungeon brings 500 years of dark history to life with 11 shows, seven actors and one terrifying experience. The tour takes 80 minutes. Are YOU brave enough? Rokin 78, www.the-dungeons. nl. Open daily 11.00-17.00; €21, ages 5-17 €12.50 ANNE FRANK HOUSE This is the hiding place where Anne Frank wrote her diary during World War II. Quotations from the diary, photographs, films and original objects – including Anne’s diary – all serve to illustrate the events that occurred here. Suitable for children over ten. Prinsengracht 267, www.anne frank.org. Open Mon-Fri, Sun 09.00-19.00, Sat 09.00-21.00; €9, ages 10-17 €4.50 ARTIS ROYAL ZOO Admire the tropical fish in the Aquarium and travel through time in the Planetarium. See giraffes galloping amongst the zebras, springboks, oryx and wildebeests. Surround yourself with hundreds of fluttering butterflies in the Butterfly Pavilion or stroll through the historical park with its centuries-old trees and a multitude of plants. Plantage Kerklaan 38-40, www. artis.nl. Open daily 09.0017.00; €18.95, ages 3-9 €15.50 BLEEKMOLENS RACE PLANET Burn off some steam and rubber at this indoor go-karting track. Minimum age for karting is eight years old and the minimum height is 1.40 metres. Helmets and protective clothing are included. There’s also a large indoor playground, bowling alley and restaurant here, making for one awesome day out. Herwijk 10, www.raceplanet. com. Open Mon-Fri 13.0023.00, Sat & Sun 12.00-23.00; €15.75 for karting, various packages available GLOWGOLF AMSTERDAM Presenting ‘Back to the future in 15 holes’, this glow-in-the-dark indoor mini-golf centre makes for an entertaining day out with friends or family. 3D glasses are available for €1.25 and add a whole other dimension of fun. Prins Hendrikkade 194, www. glowgolf.nl/amsterdam. Open Sun-Thur 11.00-20.00, Fri & Sat 11.00-23.00; adults €8.50, children (under 11) €7.50, family packages available KINDERKOOKKAFE The ‘Kids Cook Café’ is a delightful and unique restaurant located near the Vondelpark. Here children (ages five to 12) do absolutely everything to help run the restaurant, including cooking, serving, bartending, tidying up and running the cash register. Vondelpark 6B, www.kinder kookkafe.nl. Open daily 10.0017.00; various prices

Highlight OBA

OBA LINNAEUS: ANOTHER STORY A new branch of the OBA has recently opened in Amsterdam East, OBA Linnaeus. It’s a special establishment built entirely around stories: the collection comprises only poetry, novels and books that fall under the ‘fiction’ genre, with an extensive collection of English novels available. Visitors can also sit down with a cup of coffee and their laptop or tablet in the Bibliotheekcafé. ENGLISH SPOKEN For five Fridays in 2015, OBA Linnaeus hosts English literature mornings. Each meeting addresses a different book, with readings, videos and lively discussion. Two enthusiastic English teachers, Loes van der Zande and Anneke Hesp, present the programme in English.

Five Fridays 2015, 10.30-12.00 OBA Linnaeus, Linnaeusstraat 44 Book via 020 694 0773 / linnaeus@oba.nl Access with OBA card free / normal €5

LOVERS POWERZONE For some action-packed fun with friends or family head over to the Lovers Powerzone, located just a short walk from Central Station. Strike it big at one of the six glow-in-the-dark bowling alleys or pit yourself against the enemy on the laser tag battleground. De Ruyterkade 153, www.loverspowerzone.nl. Various times & prices

NATIONAL MARITIME MUSEUM Het Scheepvaartmuseum has a variety exhibitions designed just for kids. Sal & Lori and the Circus at Sea is an underwater fairy-tale for the youngest visitors, while older children will enjoy The Tale of the Whale or multimedia adventure See You in the Golden Age. Moored just outside the museum, the Dutch East India Company ship Amsterdam is a hit with visitors of all ages. Kattenburgerplein 1, www. scheepvaartmuseum.nl. Open daily 09.00-17.00; €15, ages 5-17 €7.50 SCIENCE CENTER NEMO NEMO introduces young and old to the world of science and technology. Five floors are filled with exhibitions, theatre performances, films, workshops and demonstrations. Smell, hear, feel and see how the world works. Everything is interactive! Oosterdok 2, www.e-nemo.nl. Open Tue-Sun 10.00-17.00; €13.50

AGENDA 13 March: Dave Eggers, The Circle 10 April: Eleanor Catton, The Illuminati 8 May: Ian McEwan, Atonement 12 June: Edgar Allen Poe and one of his stories

SOUND GARDEN The Klankspeeltuin is unlike any other playground. Children between the ages of seven and 12 learn how to compose their very own music using all sorts of sound installations and computers during this interactive workshop. Parents/caretakers are not present during the workshop, but get to hear the compositions at the end. Muziekgebouw aan ’t IJ, Piet Heinkade 1, www.muziekge bouw.nl. Wed & Sun, 15.0016.30; €8.50

truly unique science centre. Kids can choose from more than 30 experiments including how to develop photos in a darkroom, make crisps from a potato, construct a fast little sailing boat and make scented soap. The entry fee covers the entire day and you can take home whatever you create! Suitable for children aged four to 14. Burgemeester Röellstraat 145, www.ontdekhoek.nl/en. Open Tue & Thur by appointment only, Wed, Fri, Sat, Sun 10.0017.00; children €10, adults €8

MADAME TUSSAUDS AMSTERDAM Step into the amazing world of Madame Tussauds. The collection of wax figures include the gorgeous Brad Pitt, the outrageous Lady Gaga and the brilliant Einstein. Pose for photos with the likes of David Beckham, Justin Bieber and Beyoncé. Dam 20, www.madame tussauds.nl. Open daily 10.0018.30; €22, ages 5-15 €17 MIRANDABAD SWIMMING POOL Subtropical swimming pool complex with a beach, palm trees, several indoor and outdoor pools and wave machines. Other amenities include squash courts, a solarium and a restaurant. De Mirandalaan 9, www. mirandabad.nl. Various times & prices DISCOVERY CORNER Capture the imagination at this

TROPENMUSEUM JUNIOR Tropenmuseum Junior was created especially for children from ages six to 13 and is focused on non-Western cultures. The interactive exhibits introduce children to new cultures in a playful way that sparks their curiosity. In 2012, the Tropenmuseum Junior received the Children’s Museum Award. Linnaeusstraat 2, www.tropen museum.nl. Open Tue-Sun 10.00-17.00; various prices TUNFUN An indoor paradise for children under 12. Under adult supervision, kids can enjoy hours of active, creative and adventurous fun in a huge 4000m2 indoor playground. There’s something for every age and interest: from soft slides and mini-ball pool for babies and infants, trampolines and jungle gyms for the older kids, and crafting and painting for the future Van Goghs. Mr Visserplein 7, www.tunfun. nl. Open daily 10.00-18.00; ages 1-12 €8.50, adults free VERZETSMUSEUM JUNIOR The Dutch Resistance Museum (Verzetsmuseum), details the history of the Dutch resistance in World War II during the country’s occupation by Germany from May 1940 to May 1945. Always popular with Dutch families and educational school trips, the museum recently opened a dedicated Junior

building, showing young visitors (nine-14 years) how four peers lived during wartime. Verzetsmuseum, www.verzets museum.org. Open Mon, SatSun 11.00-17.00, Tue-Fri, 10.0017.00; adults €8, kids ages 7-15 €4.50, under-6s free

EVENTS CHILDREN’S STUDIO With fun themes like ‘Hip hop in Narnia’ and ‘Sparkle in the Gems of Jewels’, these creative workshops introduce kids to the world of opera and ballet. Dutch National Opera and Ballet, Waterlooplein 22, www. operaballet.nl. 14.00-16.00; €5 SUNDAY MARKET A great day out for the whole family! Artists, designers and craftspeople flog their wares and delicious food & drink is on offer to fuel your shopping frenzy. There is always some form of entertainment or crafty workshop on and plenty of kids clothing and toy stalls to browse through. Free entry. Sun 1 Mar & Sun 5 Apr (Easter market), Westergasfabriek, Haarlemmerweg, www.sunday market.nl. 12.00-18.00 THE IMPRESARIO Two ‘prima donnas’ battle it out in this (timeless) satirical and amusing story of fame and vanity. Composed and – in this case – performed by a marionette version of Mozart himself. Tip: they have a special Easter Brunch edition on 6 April. Sun 15 Mar-Sun 19 Apr, Amsterdam Marionette Theatre, Nieuwe Jonkerstraat 8, www. marionettentheater.nl. Various times; €16, under-14s €7.50 KERMIS (FAIRGROUND) Whether you’re one for being flung around high above the city, racing around in the dodgems, being spooked in the haunted house or simply sightseeing from the top of a Ferris wheel, the fairground is guaranteed great fun at any age. Various dates & locations, www.iamsterdam.com KING’S DAY – VONDELPARK The first stop for families on King’s Day has to be the Vondelpark. Every year, Amsterdam’s largest park is reserved for the littlest people who have the chance to sell the toys they’ve outgrown over the year. See page 20. 27 Apr, Vondelpark, www.iamsterdam.com BREDEWEG FESTIVAL Characterised by a familyfriendly vibe, this bustling street festival features a street market, fair, theatre performances and concerts. It typically all gets started on King’s Night with some street opera. Then on King’s Day itself, there’s live music of all styles, great food and lots of family fun including rides, storytellers, face painters, craft workshops and performance artists. 26 & 27 Apr, district of Oost, www.bredewegfestival.nl

FIRST CLASS TICKETS LAST MINUTE PRICE LASTMINUTETICKETSHOP.NL

mar & apr 2015

GAY & LESBIAN REGULAR EVENTS

to shine. Every Fri, Lellebel, 20.00

ZONDERBROEK Every Friday and Sunday night and every first Saturday of the month, drop all your pretences and dance without pants at Club Church in Amsterdam. The dress code is strictly enforced: briefs and jocks are welcome; swimming trunks, NAKED SWIMMING boxers, sports shorts or going The Marnixbad pools contain commando are also permitted. Board shorts, Bermudas or much less chlorine than most – other streetwear prohibited. which is good news since you’ll Every Fri & Sun, Church, be exposing your sensitive bits. various times, €10 Every Tue, Marnixbad, 21.00, various prices GAY PUB CRAWL TUESDAY BLUESDAY Does exactly what it says on the tin, taking in ‘Gay Street’s Same Place café hosts a club finest drinking establishments. night with a special focus on Every Sat, departs Taboo, blues, soul and contemporary 20.00 music. While there’s no entrance fee, you are asked to IT’S SHOWTIME FOLKS spend at least €10 at the bar It’s show time almost every when you’re a single man, or night at Lellebel, the most the same amount if you’re a outrageous drag show bar in couple. town, but Saturdays are espeEvery Tue, Same Place, 21.00 cially fabulous, with the bar’s DRINK & COCKTAIL most glamorous stars coming EVENING together for a supernova of cabaret fun. Every Thursday, enjoy a Every Sat, Lellebel, 20.00 mouth-watering cocktail at drag show bar Lellebel on the BUBBLES & BITES corner of Rembrabdtplein. Free bites from 17.00-1900; Relax in the pleasant company of your hostesses Miss Saphira, cheap bubbles – just €2.50 – all night. Electra Shock, May ButterEvery Sun, Prik, 16.00 cream and Ginger G-Spot. Get a taste of Sugi’s Mojito, May’s DOUBLE HAPPY HOUR Mango or Electra’s Sunrise… Because why wouldn’t you And yes, those are cocktails, want to start the working week cheeky. with a hangover? Line up for Every Thur, Lellebel, 20.00 bargain-priced cocktails and BLUE shots. Every Sun, Taboo, 18.00 Kooky clubbing with Amsterdam’s drag supremo Jennifer LADY GALORE’S Hopelezz. Drinks are just DRAG NIGHT €2.50. Come and join Lady Galore Every Thur, Church, 22.00, €5 and her wonderful assistant THE PONY CLUB Annie Alcohol along with some guest performers and If you want to quit horsing surprises. around and get serious about Every Sun, Amstel Fifty Four, starting the weekend on 20.00 Thursday (and who doesn’t?), you couldn’t ask for a better SUNDAY CAROUSEL place than The Pony Club. Be transported to exotic climes Three floors of DJs spin an with Arabian and Turkish energetic mix of pop, disco, music courtesy of old and new house and electro alongside performances to lift your spir- divas from Lellebel, with Miss Rini leading the charge. its. Arrive before midnight and Every Sun, Lellebel, 22.00 get in for free. Every Thur, Club NYX, 23.00, €5, free before midnight MELLOW MONDAY Recharge after your busy weekend with free foot and shoulder massages, free snacks, free detox scrubs, dry and steam saunas. Every Mon, Sauna NZ, 19.00, €18, under-26s €10

THANK GOD IT’S FRIDAY Celebrate the weekend with tunes, nibbles and drinks. After a week of hard work, unwind with a drink, some snacks and tunes by the resident DJ. Every Fri, Engel van Amsterdam, 17.00, free

ONE-OFF EVENTS

GAY MOVIE NIGHT Nurse your hangover in the dark, while enjoying a screening of the gems of gay cinema. Wed 4 Mar & 1 Apr, Pathé de Munt, 21.00, €10

THANK GODDESS, NETHERBEARS AT THE IT’S FRIDAY QUEEN’S HEAD Welcome the weekend with Bi-weekly get-together by live performances and an Netherbears, the slightly less open stage. Start the weekend stocky bear men (according to celebrations with your hostess their website). Miss Sugi La Ri accompanied Sun 8 & 22 Mar, 12 & 26 Apr, by stars such as Ginger G-Spot, The Queen’s Head, www.nether May Buttercream, Electra bears.nl, 19.00 Shock and more. And if you SPANK! want to become a star yourself, the open stage is there for you For those who’ve been naughty

– or who would like to be – an afternoon of spanking, caning, OTK (over the knee), flogging and all types of corporal pun-

hunks, beefy boys, cubs, otters, their lovers and everyone else. Sat 21 Mar, Hotel Arena, 19.00, €20/€25

Highlight LGBT

with Anouk and then with The Common Linnets, who were only pipped to the post by Austria’s Conchita Wurst. What silliness does 2015 hold? Get out the glad rags and head to Amsterdam’s official Eurovision gathering to have a drink, laugh and watch the proceedings live in the centre of town. Take note that it typically sells out, too! Sat 18 Apr, Melkweg, 19.30, €32.50 RAPIDO King’s Day edition of the popular gay circuit party with international DJs attended mainly by men, almost all of whom take of their shirts; many wear just sport shorts. Sun 26 Apr, Paradiso, 15.00, €35/€45

AMSTERDAM GAY & LESBIAN FILM FESTIVAL (ROZE FILMDAGEN) With its top-draw programming, this festival has earned an excellent reputation amongst its visitors, as well as with filmmakers and festivals abroad. The Roze Filmdagen aim to highlight all aspects of quality LGBT cinema for a broad audience: feature films, documentaries and shorts, which are missing in the regular cinematic offerings. Thur 12-Sun 22 Mar, Ketelhuis Cinema, Westergasfabriek, www.rozefilmdagen.nl, various times & prices

RUPAUL’S DRAG RACE It’s glitter, fake lashes and glamour galore as a flutter of queens battles it out at the Amsterdam stop-off of the American TV show, hosted by Michelle Visage. Fri 10 Apr, Melkweg, 20.00, €25 ishment. No dress code. Men only. Sun 15 Mar, Church, 16.0020.00, €10 HORSEMEN & KNIGHTS Big willy gay sex party. Dress code: naked or underwear. Drop ’em and if you measure up, entrance is free. Sun 15 Mar & 19 Apr, The Warehouse, 15.00, €8 AMSTERDAM BEAR PRIDE A celebration of all things hairy, venues across town host topical parties and events – including bowling, a pubcrawl, dancing, cruising, bingo, a canal cruise and a ‘Mister Bear Netherlands’ election. Thur 19-Mon 23 Mar, various locations, www.amsterdam bearpride.com BEAR NECESSITY The biggest and most popular, non-attitude, real men party in Amsterdam: for bears, hairy

WASTELAND Europe’s most notorious straight/gay/mixed fetish fantasy extravaganza, with three dance floors, six stages, a fully equipped dungeon and kinky dress code. Sat 11 Apr, North Sea Venue, 22.00, €49.50 GARBO FOR WOMEN Single ladies strut their stuff at this regular ladies-only meet-up. Celebrating its tenth anniversary in 2015. Sat 21 Mar & 18 Apr, Strand West, 18.00, €8 UNDERCOVER Hot naked mask only party! Masks supplied at door (5 euro deposit) or bring your own. Men only. Sat 21 Mar, Church, 22.00 LGBTQ OOSTERPART & LGBTQ CAFE Low-key neighbourhood drinks in the east of the city. Fri 27 Mar & 24 Apr, Eden Amsterdam Manor Hotel, 21.00, free EUROVISION SONG CONTEST After a pretty disastrous run at this cheesy pop festival, the Netherlands has enjoyed two solid years at Eurovision, first

REGULIERS KING’S DAY Street party hosted by the gay bars and clubs on Amsterdam’s ‘gay street’. With club and house music. Mon 27 Apr, Reguliersdwarsstraat, 12.00, free ADDRESSES Abe Amstelstraat 30 www.clubabe.com Amstel Fifty Four Amstel 54 www.amstelfiftyfour.nl Church Kerkstraat 52 www.clubchurch.nl Eden Amsterdam Manor Hotel Linnaeusstraat 89 www.lgbtqoosterpark. blogspot.com Engel van Amsterdam Zeedijk 21 www.engelamsterdam.nl Hotel Arena 's-Gravesandestraat 51 www.hotelarena.nl Lellebel Utrechtsestraat 4 www.lellebel.nl Marnixbad Marnixplein 1 www.hetmarnix.nl Melkweg Lijnbaansgracht 234A www.melkweg.nl Club NYX Reguliersdwarsstraat 42 http://clubnyx.nl Pathé de Munt Vijzelstraat 15 www.pathe.nl Paradiso Weteringschans 6-8 www.paradiso.nl Prik Spuistraat 109 www.prikamsterdam.nl The Queen’s Head Zeedijk 20 www.queenshead.nl Same Place Nassaukade 120 www.sameplace.nl Sauna Nieuwezijds Nieuwezijds Armsteeg 95 www.saunanieuwezijds.nl Strand West Stavangerweg 900 www.garboforwomen.nl Taboo Reguliersdwarsstraat 45 www.taboobar.nl The Warehouse Warmoesstraat 96 www.warehouseamsterdam.com

CLOSING

BEYOND

A’DAM

Get out of town for these don’t-miss attractions beyond the city limits.

beyond amsterdam

‘INGRES’S “COMTESSE ’HAUSSONVILLE” IS ONE OF MORE THAN 30 PIECES LENT TO THE MAURITSHUIS FOR AN UNPRECEDENTED EXHIBITION.’ THE UK’S GUARDIAN RECOMMENDS THE FRICK COLLECTION.

text Max van Deurzen

HIP HOP IN HOOFDDORP The best Dutch the hip hop scene has to offer can be seen and heard during the Ondergronds Verbond festival. It features some of the biggest and baddest names from the Dutch rap scene at this moment, with headliners such as Typhoon, Fresku and Sticks & Moon (pictured). However, there’s also space for young unknown Dutch rapping talent. This festival provides the full underground hip-hop experience, including free-styling, graffiti, turntables and breakdancing. Dance to the beat and shuffle your feet! 28 March Podium Duycker Raadhuisplein 5, Hoofddorp www.ondergrondsverbond.nl

GETTING THERE: From Central Station, trains to Hoofddorp take 20min.

TEFAF FINE ARTS FAIR Granted, this is a long way out of town, but the world’s leading art and antique fair attracts the best dealers, academics, art critics and collectors from around the world. Featuring museum-quality art, antiques and jewellery from 275 of the world’s most prestigious dealers and spanning some 5,500 years, 70,000 visitors are expected to attend. Highlights include Salvador Dali’s Mae West Lips Sofa (pictured) and a German illuminated manuscript containing 14 engravings by Dürer. 13-22 March Forum 100, Maastricht www.tefaf.com

GETTING THERE: From Central Station, trains to Maastricht take around 150min.

HOLLAND ANIMATION FILM FESTIVAL At HAFF you’ll find everything good the world of animation has to offer at this moment. This can be anything: films, cartoons, games, music videos, motion graphics, fine arts, web design – you name it; as long as it’s animated, it’s there. See the work of the biggest animation talents today, and immerse yourself in the past and present of the animated arts. 18-22 March Various locations, Utrecht www.haff.nl

GETTING THERE: From Central Station, trains to Utrecht take around 30min.

‘JOOP ZOETEMELK IS THE BEST RIDER THAT THE NETHERLANDS HAS EVER KNOWN. THERE HAS NEVER BEEN A BETTER ONE.’

‘TEFAF REMAINS THE ULTIMATE TREASURE HOUSE OF OBJECTS THAT TIME AND FASHIONABLE COLLECTING FORGOT.’

SEE IF FELLOW TOUR RIDER RINI WAGTMANS WAS RIGHT, AT THE JOOP ZOETEMELK CLASSIC.

A LITTLE PIECE OF SUMMER… With a little luck it’ll be nice and sunny spring weather by the time you’re reading this. For the early summer birds out there, there’s a chance to kick back and relax at the trendy beach club Woodstock 69. On 27 March they’re throwing a big opening party to celebrate the start of the season, so put on your hippest swimwear! In case of bad weather there’s still lots to do inside, all set to the groovy beats of the Woodstock resident DJs. 27 March Zeeweg 7, Bloemendaal aan Zee www.woodstock69.nl

GETTING THERE: From Central Station, trains to Overveen take 30min, then it’s a 15min walk.

INGRES, COMTESSE D'HAUSSONVILLE, 1845

WASHED ASHORE, DIRECTED BY JONAS OTT

THE NEW YORK TIMES DAMNS THE EUROPEAN FINE ART FAIR IN MAASTRICHT WITH FAINT PRAISE.

THE FRICK COLLECTION This spring you’ll find a little piece of New York in The Hague. The famous Frick Collection was kind enough to lend some of its most beautiful works and paintings to the Mauritshuis, the museum that houses two paintings made world-famous by the novels they inspired: Vermeer’s ‘Girl With a Pearl Earring’ and Carel Fabritius’s ‘The Goldfinch’. It’s the first large art show in the museum’s new temporary exhibition wing, created during a twoyear €33m renovation, and includes canvasses by famous painters you won’t find anywhere else in the country, including Van Eyck, Gainsborough, Constable and Ingres – not to mention one of the world’s finest collections of applied arts, too. Until 10 May Mauritshuis, Plein 29, The Hague www.mauritshuis.nl

GETTING THERE: From Central Station, trains to The Hague take around 50min.

CYCLING IN HET GROENE HART Het Groene Hart, the wide nature reservation to the south and southwest of Amsterdam, is organising a month full of recreational events to celebrate the start of spring. Kicking things off is Holland’s very own spring cycling classic, the Joop Zoetemelk Classic, which starts and finishes in Leiden. The race will be launched by 68-year-old Joop Zoetemelk himself, the last Dutch Tour de France winner. And if you’re quick, you can still participate in this race yourself! Online group registration ends on 8 March. Race: 21 March www.swift-joopzoetemelkclassic.nl

GETTING THERE: From Central Station, trains to Leiden take around 35min.

CLOSING

THEN AND NOW

then & now

WETERINGSCHANS, 1966 Tracing the cityâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s history, one image at a time.

NEXT ISSUE

COOL BRITANNIA The Dutch National Ballet celebrates Britain’s coolest choreographers.

17-27 June Dutch National Opera & Ballet www.operaballet.nl



COR JARING: PHOTOGRAPHS 1965-1975

DEMONSTRATION WETERINGSCHANS 1966, PROTESTING THE WEDDING OF PRINCESS BEATRIX. PHOTO COR JARING

Multidisciplinary performing arts extravaganza, including pop-opera from Japanese hologram mega-star Hatsune Miku. 30 May-23 June Various locations www.hollandfestival.nl

RALPH LARMANN



PACHA FESTIVAL The iconic Ibiza club brings its Balearic beats to Amsterdam.



ROLLING KITCHENS

23 May Javaeiland www.pachafestival. com

Amsterdam’s coolest park goes meals-on-wheels crazy, with a week of the city’s best food trucks.

13-17 May Westerpark www.rollendekeukens.nl

OPEN GARDEN DAYS



13 March-12 July Amsterdam City Archives Vijzelstraat 32 www.stadsarchief.amsterdam.nl

HOLLAND FESTIVAL



As King’s Day comes around, and the city’s streets turn a gleeful orange, it’s worth remembering that Amsterdammers weren’t always so proud of their royal family. In the Swinging Sixties, as the city awoke from a political and social indifference, the Provo movement was born. These social provocateurs organised a series of socially progressive demonstrations demanding everything from free white bicycles to state-supported squatting to a network of women’s sexual health and family planning centres. When Princess Beatrix’s engagement was announced to the wildly unpopular Claus von Amsberg – who many Dutch thought an unsuitable match, due to his childhood membership of the Hitler Youth organisation – the Provos staged a series of demonstrations, including throwing anti-monarchist pamphlets from a bridge into the royal boat. On the wedding day itself, the Provos managed to sneak sugar and nitrate smoke bombs past the police. The first went off just behind the Royal Palace as the procession started. Unable to identify the Provos, the police overreacted and the wedding turned into a public relations disaster. Amsterdam photographer Cor Jaring (1936-2013) was the defining photographer of the Provo movement, celebrating its 50th anniversary this year. See his iconic images in the Amsterdam City Archives.

MAY & JUN 2015

Amsterdam’s secret gardens are open to the public for just one weekend a year. 19-21 June Various locations www.opentuinendagen.nl

CLOSING

ON THE WAY

OUT

We asked people leaving Schiphol Airport for their Amsterdam advice.

text & photos Zlatka Siljdedic

on the way out

ESTHER DAVIES (21) & HELENA DIXON (21), FRENCH HISTORY STUDENTS FROM THE UK ’We’re currently working as teaching assistants in Nantes and Brest, France. We took a break and visited Amsterdam for three days. We especially loved the Waterlooplein flea market [Helena bought her blue coat there] and the food. We had a wonderful, literally finger-licking meal at African restaurant Azmarino (www.azmarino.nl), where you eat with your hands. It was a bit crowded, but a great place to eat.’

VIKTOR LEE (30), AUDIO/ VIDEO PROFESSIONAL, FROM KAZAKHSTAN ‘I was in town for a few days attending the Integrated Systems Europe exhibition at the RAI, so didn’t have time to see much of the city. I found the people very friendly, though.’

TRINE ROVIK (23) & MORTEN MOE (23), IN THE ARMED FORCES We spotted Trine and Morten reading A-mag. Besides visiting a lot of museums with their I amsterdam City Cards, they’re curious about the ancient Dutch sport colf, a kind of precursor to golf, which was popular in the Low Countries in medieval times. We’re not too sure they’ll see much of it in Amsterdam!

ANA DANGADZE (24), MERCHANDISER & TEMO NODIJA (33), MANAGER, FROM TBILISI, GEORGIA Temo: ’I’ve been to Amsterdam a few times before, because I have friends here. This time I was here for two weeks, and Ana joined me later. We visited the Van Gogh Museum, the Diamond Museum – even the Sex Museum!’ Ana: ’I especially like the feeling of freedom the city has to offer. I’ll certainly recommend it to my friends back home.’

ARMANDO DIAS FRASSON (23) & OTAVIO FELIPE NETO (23), DENTISTRY STUDENTS FROM BRASIL ’After Barcelona and Prague, we spent a week in Amsterdam – and of course, we had the best time here! Amsterdam is so different to Brasil; people are much more fashionable and we felt much safer going out at night.’

editor-in-chief Bart van Oosterhout art director & basic design Loes Koomen designer Zlatka Siljdedic copy editor Megan Roberts contributors Lauren Comiteau, Max van Deurzen, Karin Engelbrecht, Elisah Jacobs, Inger van der Ree, Janna Reinsma, Bregtje Schudel, Mark Smith, Monique Wijbrands/Saltystock listings EdenFrost (Tamar Bosschaart, Steven McCarron & Dave Nice), Christiaan de Wit cover illustration Gudrun Makelberge