7 minute read
Small But Mighty
Small But Mighty
Three small-town grocery stores go above and beyond for their communities.
By Gretchen Westdal Centers
In three different parts of the state sit three different men. What they lack in geographic proximity, they more than make up for in dedication to their communities.
Meet Garren Zanker, Tom Mulholland and Doug Alberhasky. They’re business owners, independent grocers and proponents of showing up for their communities.
The independent, locally owned grocery store — which used to be a staple in towns large and small — has dwindled as competition from national chains and online shopping hampers their ability to thrive.
That doesn’t stop Zanker, Mulholland and Alberhasky. They understand it’s just part of the business. But, of course, they’re in it for more than profit. They see their work as vital to their communities’ prosperity and success.
A Town Jewel
Stop into Jewell Market during the lunch hour, and you might be able to secure one of the homemade specials for the day. Not only is Jewell Market a full-fledged grocery store, but it also offers a hot grab-and-go lunch for people on busy days. It’s just one of the ways Garren Zanker, owner and manager of Jewell Market, diversifies the business to meet and exceed the customer demand of Jewell residents.
Zanker knows a thing or two about customer demand. He started working at Anderson's Meat and Grocery (in the same building) in 1994. It was his first job. He’s been in the grocery business most of his life — after 23 years in a couple larger chain grocery stores and a bank were his only times away from the store that would become the Jewell Market.
His attention to the customer revealed a way to save Jewell Market, which was on the brink of closing in 2019 after previous management issues. Zanker stepped in to help because he knew the community, his hometown, needed the store. On Jan. 1, 2020, a group was formed to save it.
Through community fundraising, they remodeled the market and started thinking about restocking shelves. They were seeing good progress. Then, the COVID-19 pandemic hit, and momentum halted. The group started brainstorming, knowing that they couldn’t stop.
“We had this idea to do drive-through meals,” recalls Zanker. “Nobody could go out to eat, so we saw an opportunity for people to leave their houses and help support the store safely. We started with hot dogs and hamburgers and sold out in 45 minutes.”
Each time the store prepared and sold meals, they continually sold out. By Easter, Jewell Market had people lining up weekly to buy the prepared meals and drop money in the store’s donation jar.
“We raised a lot of money that way. By May, we had enough and proceeded to fully reopen the store,” Zanker explains. “The store reopened in July 2020.”
In just seven months, the town of Jewell saved their only grocery store.
Today, the market still sells lunch. Coupled with the fresh produce, full meat counter and fully stocked shelves featuring local Iowa products, Jewell Market is thriving. Zanker is looking for ways to expand the operation by adding seating to the store so patrons can enjoy meals together. The grocery store is much more than a place to pick up items for supper.
“It’s a central hub for the community,” Zanker elaborates. “Farmers coming and going. People on their lunch breaks, parents getting their kids to sports and activities. Time is a commodity. At the end of the day, we are here so they have someone to rely on.”
A Family Affair at John’s Grocery
The state of Iowa was established in 1847. A year later, a dry goods store opened at the corner of Market and Gilbert and has been serving generations of Iowans ever since.
Over the years, ownership has passed through different families. In 1948, Doug Alberhasky’s grandparents purchased the then-100-year-old business. At age six, Doug started working there under the watchful eyes of his grandparents and parents. Now, Doug has welcomed his son JD into the business as generation number four.
It’s been an Iowa City tradition and institution for more than a century because of the family’s continued dedication to the store and the community.
“My story is no different than that of any other small business owner because we’re part of the community,” Alberhasky explains. “We live in the community. We support the community. And the community supports us; that’s just how it is. We’ve seen corporations try to create competition, and the community has always rallied around us.”
That community is well represented in the store. Alberhasky stocks the shelves with an extensive array of Iowa-made products, fine wines, beer, spirits and pantry staples that can round out a gourmet dinner or feed a hungry college student.
In It For Good at Mulholland Grocery
For 150 years, Mulholland Grocery stood as a cornerstone of the Malvern community. Until tragedy struck. A massive fire destroyed the store in December 2021. Malvern was left without a grocery store, and owner Tom Mulholland was left without his mooring.
“I had the business for about 15 years before the fire occurred,” explains Mulholland. “I am the fourth generation of my family to have this store. I knew that small-town grocery stores were a dying breed, and it was a very tough market because of competition. But we built an excellent reputation throughout the state and the country.”
Through innovative marketing, word of mouth and quality products — especially their specialty meats — Mulholland Grocery prospered. But one aspect propelled the store’s success: Mulholland’s focus on doing the right thing.
In 2020, the neighboring town of Glenwood flooded, and the water treatment plant was submerged.
“The day they lost their water treatment plant, we had just received a shipment of water,” remembers Mulholland. An employee and I loaded up my pickup and delivered it to Glenwood. There were so many who had lost their homes and were living in shelters, and there were things that were needed. We started working with my warehouse to get them food and supplies.”
Malvern residents and past business associates of Mulholland learned of his actions and started sending donations. Not only had he built a local community of people in Malvern who knew of his giving nature, but Mulholland also had an extensive online community. His gold-standard reputation of doing the right thing was solidified throughout the country.
When the fire occurred, and the store was in ashes, Mulholland wasn’t alone. Donations started pouring in from all over.
“I had people walking up to me and handing me cash to help,” he remembers, his voice breaking with emotion. “It was very difficult to accept at first. I’m trying to help other people, and now, I’m the one who could really use it.”
A friend told him to consider it an investment in the community’s future, which made it easier for Mulholland to accept. By seeing the help as steps forward to rebuild not only his business but also a much-needed resource for the town, Mulholland got to work.
“I’m doing this because I want to be able to work there for the next few years and see my customers,” Mulholland explains. “I also want the community to be taken care of for the next 20 or 30 years.”
The road back hasn’t been easy, but Malvern residents and Mulholland’s extensive network have been supporting the man who’s supported them for so long. Together, under Mulholland’s dedication and care, Mulholland Grocery will serve as a pillar of the Malvern community.
The store is set to reopen in December 2024 — the perfect Christmas present.
