Jamie Smith Sailing on Clyde

22 May 2010

I LMATA R N

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O F R HU

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Rhu to Caladh Harbour

Eilean Dubh to Tarbert Loch

Tarbert to Kames

Wonderful Sailing up the stunning Kyles of

Fyne

South Easterlies force a change from

Bute to the burn islands and Eilean Dubh

Following in the footsteps of Magnus

Lochranza in favour of more

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Barefoot of Norway

sheltered waters.

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IN THE BEST TRADITIONS OF JEROME KLAPKA JEROME NOSTRUM ITER ITINERIS SUSCIPIO The crew were expected to muster at 14:00 in the Royal Northern & Clyde Yacht Club. Our skipper Mr Hammond was as ever punctilious. Alas, Jamie and Howard were both running late - Howard by a matter of minutes, Jamie by nearly 2 hours, arriving like a less than thorough bred horse straight from a romantic weekend at Flora MacDonald’s cottage in Flodigarry.

Despite the tardiness of the crew, the skipper maintained his composure, doubtless aided by some fine cold beer at the newly revamped Royal Northern restaurant. Indeed, such was his equanimity that barely a hard gaze was cast when Smith suggested he may sample from the club’s new extensive menu, delaying departure even longer..

A pleasant lunch was enjoyed with Jamie waxing lyrical about the joys of Skye’s Trotternish Peninsula, whilst the trio exchanged notes on the great places to eat on the Isle of Skye -consensus being Duisdale House, The Three Chimneys and Flodigarry Hotel as the prime locations with the Stein Inn, Skye’s oldest Pub being a worthy mention.

Revictualling complete, the crew made their way to Glenbrook for a tearful farewell of the long suffering Mrs Hammond. Golf Clubs, crates of brown beer, Gordon’s Gin and a small vineyard’s worth of red and white into the hold indicated cast off was imminent.

After year’s of faithful service Mr Hammond has sold the Carter 33 Quicksilver in favour of a Nicholson 38- Ilmatar. Despite the more commodious saloon in Ilmatar, there was a strange sense of deja-vous as Paul took the aft, Howard the forecabin whilst Jamie was confined to the pull down in the main saloon - in turbulent times a haven of continuity.

Ensign aloft, we glided out of the Gareloch and into the clyde. As ever, the true start of the cruise being the Cloch Lighthouse, which immediately signaled an opportunity for uncorking the first of many good bottles of wine.

Intrepid skipper Paul Hammond at the helm

Royal Northern & Clyde Yacht Club

Sailing Newsletter • ILMATAR • RHU • a readership of 3 since 2010

22 May 2010

ILMA T AR Caladh Anchorage Sailing in the Clyde enjoys a justifiable reputation for outstanding quality. Within this abundance of riches, there can be F e w fi n e r spots than the stunning C a l a d h anchorage at Eilean Dubh.

This of course afforded Paul opportunity to test out his new automatic anchor winch, which happily functioned with ease.

We listened to the fading sounds of the curlews and oyster catchers before lighting Paul’s famous tilly lamp and commencing with the first evening’s festivities.

The entrée was Mrs Hammond’s famous liver and bacon pate, which resulted in one of the few quiet moments of the trip as the crew munched contentedly. This of course could not be given justice without a fine bottle of chenin blanc. This rapidly gave way to Callaghan’s Steak Pie with a Jurançon Sec. With little room for dessert we polished of some more Nigri whilst Howard regaled us with the hilarious titles he’d recently been referred to - Howard as we l l a s G e n t l e m a n L aw ye r i s a n Emigration Tribunal Judge- “your supreme excellency” - whilst standing - topped the bill!

An early bed was the order of the day, and within moments the only sounds were the last of the sea birds and the dulcet sounds of snoring from a contented crew.

Jerome Klapka Jerome “Let your boat of life be light, packed with only what you need a homely home and simple pleasures, one or two friends, worth the name, someone to love and someone to love you, a cat, a dog, and a pipe or two, enough to eat and enough to wear, and a little more than enough to drink; for thirst is a dangerous thing.”

Sailing Newsletter • ILMATAR • RHU • a readership of 3 since 2010

22 May 2010

ILMA T AR Ham and Eggs, Rye Bread, Fresh OJ and coffee.

Ilmatar.

The name Ilmatar is derived from the Finnish word ilma, meaning "air," and the suffix -tar, denoting a female spirit. Thus, her name literally means "female air spirit.

Jamie, true to form was up at 5am and displaying all the delicacy and stealth of a rampaging herd of rabid wildebeest let the crew know it was time for breakfast!

Skipper and ‘M’Lord’ were presented with their tea in bed whilst Jamie took the air a euphemism for Marlboro Lite and caffein! Duly roused Mr Hammond set to work on a hearty breakfast, all to the sounds of Dvorak No. 9 - New World Symphony.

With little wind, the engines were started and we motored down to Kames. Whilst many motor sailers are 50/50 the Nicholson has been referred to as a 90/90, being an excellent sailing craft and wonderful motor sailer.

Another benefit of the extra space on Ilmatar became apparent when we anchored at Kames, no unravelling and pumping of the Avon this time. Simply remove from the Transom Davits, attach the outboard and away...

We marched up the small hill to the Kyles of Bute Golf Course. Build in 1894, this course has some challenging holes and some truly spectacular scenery.

First off the tee was Mr Hammond, a super drive, straight over the area of Moor and onto the fairway. Alas Jamie and Howard did not fare so well and by the end of the first hole it was clear that Mr Hammond would enjoy a commanding lead - one to be maintained each day.

Despite the dubious calibre of the golf played by 2 of the 3, the setting was magnificent.

On return to Kames, we found someone had taken the fuel canister we’d left immediately in front of the Police Station!

This resulted in Paul making a 2 mile walk for fuel, whilst ‘Your Honour’ and Jamie ‘had to’ partake of a couple of pints of Black Sheep Ale at the Kames Hotel.

Howard and Jamie managed to hold off until lunch time aboard Ilmatar. A couple of excellent Sauvignon’s and we were off for the Tarbert,

Sailing Newsletter • ILMATAR • RHU • a readership of 3 since 2010

22 May 2010

ILMA T AR OF R H U

Follow the Dolphins!

Mauris convallis est

En route to Tarbert we stopped into • Quis mattis lacus ligula augue. the spectacular new Marina at Portavadie.

• Sed facilisis. Morbi lorem mi.

The facilities are amazing, but perhaps a • Tristique vitae, sodales eget. touch too prosaic? This was hammered • Vestibulum eget purus eros. home as we followed the dolphins towards to west coast haven of Tarbert.

Extensively improved over the years, Golfing in Tarbert the village now boasts a ’22 Dutch River A 15 minute walk away lies the Barge cafe, extensive new pontoons and pleasant golf course above west Loch work was ongoing on the new harbour Tarbert, where Paul once again took a offices, walkway and gardens. All told the commanding lead over Jamie and Howard. improvements are a major boon.

After so much activity Paul and Howard decided on a taxi back to Tarbert.

Mauris convallis est Jamie, however, walked. His initial • Quis mattis lacus ligula augue. enthusiasm, gave way to considerable • Sed facilisis. Morbi lorem mi. frustration, when he realised his shoes had • Tristique vitae, sodales eget. been left behind. Paul and Howard • Vestibulum eget purus eros. remained silent, whilst Jamie pondered a further 3 mile round trip. Having just summoned the strength for the walk back, he was presented with the ‘shoes’ amidst a chorus of laughter from Paul and Howard.

Given the vikings used to drag their boats between the 2 lochs, which are only 1 mile apart, it is difficult to understand why the Crinan Canal was build, rather than connecting the two Lochs? Despite being deemed as feasible by notable engineer James Watt, the Crinan

route was favoured - however, the original engineer John Rennie had his work superseded by Thomas Telford who completed the canal in 1801.

A wonderful evening in Tarbert, fine company, fine food, excellent wines and drams, again saw the evening coming to a close in most agreeable companionship.

A change the following day, brought the wind to the South East, making close hauled sailing to Lochranza unpleasant.

After 3 hours and many tacks, the crew elected for a return up the Kyles of Bute to an anchorage opposite Tighnabruach.

Sensing the imminent end of the trip, the crew imbibed and made merry, whilst the Kyles of Bute lapped against the side of Ilmatar. That was to prove the last night of our trip, the next day dawned with the sound of rain and a clagging cloud base. We headed for home, full of belly, happy of heart and planning our next sojourn to the ‘glorious west’.

Sailing Newsletter • ILMATAR • RHU • a readership of 3 since 2010