ICE Today, December 2015

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DECEMBER 2015 Tk.100

Around & Beyond Bangladesh

Get away in style!

Annual Travel Issue












editorial ‘If travelling was free, you’d never see me again’ ~Anonymous The quote above circulates around social media frequently and is one that reflects our inner plight. However, there are a few lucky ones who aren’t shackled to a 9-5 routine. To them, the journey is about living, loving and learning the cultural differences that exist beyond borders. Be it a flight for long hours or a road trip with multiple stops, they will up and leave for the sheer joy of it. Since travel is on our agenda this month, we have dedicated a large part of our Cover Focus (Above and Beyond Bangladesh, p.76) to passionate travellers and their experiences of going outside the usual comfort zone and embracing the call of the wild. Speaking of experience, we converse with our expat friends about their expeditions in and around Bangladesh (Through the eyes of the Outlanders, p.88). Also, Le Méridien Dhaka has officially opened their doors to its guests this November. The international five star hotel has already won the hearts of many with its ambient cafe and restaurant. We fell in love with their astounding decor the moment we saw it. It’s been a pleasure collaborating with them for the cover photo shoot of this issue. Merci Beacoup Le Méridien Dhaka! Christmas parties and winter shindigs will be at the top of your list. Baking is a wonderful way of spreading good vibes this season and we’ve got Hamida Saleh (Bake me a Pie, p.20) whipping up some goodies for the year end celebrations. With that being said, don’t let the winter frost dim your shine. Wishing you all a Merry Christmas and a very Happy New Year!

The Magazine That Reads You Closely Vol 12 No 12

December 2015

Publisher Abul Khair Chairman, Editorial Board Syed Shamsul Haq Director, International Publications Zeenat Chowdhury Executive Director Nawshin Khair Managing Editor Tawhidur Rashid Fashion Editor Goutom Saha Deputy Editor Tanuva Aumia Khundkar

Assistant Editor

Natasha Rahman

Senior Sub-Editor Tamzidur Rahman Sub-Editor Rubab Nayeem Khan Staff Writer Aidha Cader Senior Designer (In charge of Graphics and Layout)

Jason Sabbir Dhali Designer Md. Mainul Islam Head of Marketing Lucky Begum Assistant Manager, Marketing Farah Tani Finance and Accounts Md. Abdul Alim Sales and Distribution Md. Manik Mollah

On the cover

Get our official app on your android and iOS device

e-mail: icetoday@gmail.com facebook.com/ice.today twitter.com/ice_today www.icetoday.net Published by Abul Khair on behalf of ICE Media Limited Printed at M.K. Printers189/1,Tejgaon I/A,Dhaka-1208 Editorial and Commercial office: Road 23/A, House 4, Block B, Banani, Dhaka, Bangladesh Advertising, Sales and Distribution: 01711339587, 01819412035, 01684570791. Tel: +8809666773313

Model: Riba Wardrobe: Zoan Ash by Sultana A Accessories: Parineeta Gold and Sultana A’s personal wardrobe Makeup and Hair: Farzana Shakil’s Photography: Riyad Ashraf Location: Olea at Le Méridien Dhaka





Contents December 2015 P. 48 Fashion Travelogue 2: Essentially Ethnic Tenzing Chakma’s bold outfits are an epitome of attitude P. 56 Bridal Bonanza Shots from ICE Today presents WPPB Bridal Fest P. 58 Fashion Travelogue 3: Spellbound Dress to impress with Zoan Ash by Sultana A P. 66 Follow Me if You Can Murad Osmann’s photograph themed makeovers done by Farzana Shakil P. 72 One for the Road Travel enthusiast Aidha Cader’s insight on journeys beyond borders P. 76 More than one Heaven Shamim Shorif Susom talks about his expeditions to three exotic locations P. 80 Serene Symbiosis Ecotoursim at the Sundarbans is a call for the avid traveller P. 82 The Gourmand Speaketh Food critic Amitabh Dewry speaks about the diversity in local foods P. 84 In Search of Spirituality Lalon’s shrine offers soulful music P. 86 Out & About Managing Director of Perfetti Bangladesh, Rajesh Ramakrishnan tours Bangladesh P. 88 Through the Eyes of the Outlanders Stories about Bangladesh from two of our expat friends P. 90 Historically Sound: The Vast Bengal Discovering the heritage sites that are tucked away in Bangladesh P. 92 Sojourn with Surjokonna A journey through the mystic Meghna P. 94 Pocket-friendly vacations Sort out your finances before hitting the road P. 96 Up in the Mountains A health and fitness guide for the travel addicts P. 100 People and Places Showcasing faces from around the world P. 104 All is not lost Bangladesh vs Australia: defeat might just be the new beginning P. 106 Shifting Mirage of a Desert Oasis Aidha Cader reminisces about Iran’s magnificent cuisine P. 112 Events Reviews and news of numerous events and openings

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Buzz ICE Today

A reel of the latest lifestyle updates

From the pages to the silver screen Anil Bagchi'r Ekdin, the second film produced by Bengal Creations and presented by Robi was screened at Star Cineplex, on November 13, on the birth anniversary of Humayun Ahmed. As one of the first projects after the demise of the renowned author, movie director Morshedul Islam directed Anil Bagchi'r Ekdin, keeping the exact title given by the novelist based on the independence war. The premiere ceremony began with a short speech delivered by Managing Director of Bengal Creations Luva Nahid Choudhury followed by Abul Khair, Chairman of Bengal Foundation. He paid respect in the memory of the renowned departed writer and wished success of the film. He congratulated Robi for initiating and promoting such an artistic movie and looked forward to Bengal Creations in coming up with new projects in the future. The next speech was from Ashikur Rahman, Robi’s Media Relations Manager. He connected the slogan of 14

Performance Art Robi, 'Ignite the power within' to the novel and the theme of the movie, encouraging everyone to watch the film. Lastly, the eminent director of Bangladesh, Morshedul Islam described the background of the film through the righteousness of the character against all odds and co-related the story with the con-current disarray scenario. Meanwhile Muhammad Zafar Iqbal, celebrated author and younger brother of Humayun Ahmed was called upon the stage for a welcome speech. The film was then premiered at 7pm in the evening. The Minister of Agriculture and the

Elated Matia Chowdhury at the film premiere

Presidium member of Bangladesh Awami League Matia Chowdhury, Minister of Food Advocate Kamrul Islam and former Minister of Law, Justice and Parliamentary Affairs, Barrister Shafique Ahmed from the Government of Bangladesh graced the event and enjoyed the film. The world premiere of the movie was observed in Colombo, International Film Festival. Additionally, the movie has also been selected to be presented at the World Film Festival in Bangkok, Thailand on the list of 'Asian Contemporary Official Selection'. The nationwide release of the movie will be on December 11, 2015.

Break free Artist Ali Asgar’s ‘Shameless’ was a triptych performance about social concerns and the stigma that accompany them. The first performance of the project depicted ‘Shame and Erotica’, while the second and third one dealt with ‘Shame and Sin’ and ‘Shame and Gender’ respectively. The project discussed how our bodies are shamed through our social views about erotica, sin and gender roles. As a performance artist, Ali feels that the human body is the main protagonist of his performance pieces. Through the performances he wanted to give the audience an honest portrayal of the issue using sound, light and space transformation where the viewer experienced the extent to which the human body is objectified. The first part (Shame and Erotica) was showcased at the exhibition program ‘Only Connect. Edition Three’ presented by Bengal Foundation at the Daily Star Bengal Arts Precinct on November 14.

Photographs by Mizanur Rahman for Bengal Foundation

Film Premiere



Dhaka Lit Fest Ashfaque Zaman sheds light on the politics behind the new F-word

On a serious note

In the 18th century, the word ‘bloody’ was considered a definitive expletive in England; a word that is now considered to be commonly exclaimed to signify anger or frustration. Throughout history, there have been many words that if uttered, would elicit a negative reaction. During the annual Dhaka Lit Fest, prominent feminists Shobhaa De, Jude Kelly, Tassafy Hossain and Urvashi Butalia debate upon the embodiment of the newly appointed f-word, ‘feminism.’ During their panel, Feminism: The Next F Word, these women discussed their ideas of feminism, their experiences of handling it, and informed the audience regarding the true meaning of this rather loaded word. The Age of Enlightenment is 16

heralded to be the dawn of feminism, and like all things with time, it has been translated and misconstrued into many different meanings. Urvashi Butalia expressed that the idea that feminists are home wreckers who hate men, needs to be debunked because, it is a cause for an equality that disregards gender. However, many women, such as the CEO of Yahoo, Mariissa Mayer believe and have stated that, “Feminism has become, in many ways, a negative word.” An idea that Jude Kelly contributes is that the word, in corporate or other settings, would hint to the idea of hostility; she further elaborates that even during the panel, men were hesitant to ask their questions given that they were facing a panel of feminists.

Many believe that when women have equal rights, it equates to them taking over. She answers, “I never said anything about women taking over but the fear is you’re talking about reversal. And that is not what we should be imagining.” Shobhaa De postulates, “I hate of a world that is delineated into ‘I’m a man, I’m a woman.’ She emphasises the idea of equality declaring that “We have to work together as men and women; it is not men vs women, and it is not men and women opposed to each other. We have to work together in the interests of not only women but also men.” De believes that women would not be happier in a matriarchal society resultant of the fact that everything is about power


There are a number of factors that alter the states of feminism to becoming a cause that root even from the governing system. As feminist Kamla Bhasin recently stated, “Capitalism and capitalist patriarchy are a major factor in the regression of equality.”

structure. She speculates as to whether it is about matriarchy, patriarchy or power, saying that, “The minute you have power over family, property, money and how the family will be spending that money or inheriting that money, there is just one form of behaviour. Which is the bullying pattern and it doesn’t spare women either. You give most women power. Snatch it, grab it, get it. Be it exactly like the worst versions of men. They don’t even take the better attributes of men.” There are a number of factors that alter the states of feminism to becoming a cause that root even from the governing system. As feminist Kamla Bhasin recently stated, “Capitalism and capitalist patriarchy are a major factor in the regression of equality.” An opinion that De completely agrees with, and adds by saying, “It is linked with those who have money at the end of the day. The person who has the money calls the shot.” In light of the major constituents that map the cause of feminism, platforms such as the Lit Fest are essential in promoting women in literature. As the founder of the first feminist publishing house, Butalia firmly voices that there aren’t nearly enough women writing for the cause or the perspective of women in literature. She recollects that many male authors do not wish to be associated with her publishing house for fear of dismal commercial success and surprisingly how female authors also express similar concern. Butalia details, “One of the remarkable things about

the festival is the way its centrality contains women. In the sense that there are women in every panel, where they are usually tagged on at the end; this ensures visibility and people don’t marginalise women. In panels like this people get to articulate their doubts and discuss it. They help remove the mystique about how terrible feminists are and how feminism is such a terrible thing, all of that.” The panel itself was held in an open space, where people could listen as they pass by or stand and listen to the discussion. The Lit Fest as Tasaffy believes is an ideal

setting for such a panel, because it would not confine the active debate. Tasaffy, a Dhaka based activist and the founder of V-Day, advised young girls who were watching the panel, to pursue their passion for equality. She says, “Feminism is not a career but my life. You have to find solutions to issues that will help to balance out men and women, women and women, and men and men. It is something that you have to notice in your life and take up. You have to realise it within yourself first, otherwise it won’t work out. It is about being a humanitarian.”

The feminist Shobhaa De recieving questions from the audience

Photographs by Rajib Dhar

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Decadent

Photographs by Farhan Ahmed, Studio Lorenzo

Mehrin Mubdi Chowdhury talks to baking expert Hamida Saleh of Just Baked to know what’s in store for Christmas eve

BAKE ME A PIE!

What inspired you to become a professional baker? I went to a hospitality management school in Spain. We had to take pastry and baking courses as part of the curriculum. While doing the course I realised at once that I simply loved baking and as a result decided to continue with it in the future. Any special plans for Christmas or New Year’s? Winter is a festive season with so many things like Christmas, Thanksgiving, New Year’s and many more occasions. I love baking chocolate cakes during this time of the season, especially with colourful frostings and decorations. According to my observations, people prefer to have more pies in winter so, I bake my signature apple pies and pecan pies for the customers. What are your favourites? I love baking cookies, red velvet cupcakes and chocolate crinkles. Have you ever had any special baking requests? No, not yet. But maybe in the future, who knows? Tell us about a time when you went above and beyond for a customer. One of my mom’s friends wanted to celebrate Diwali with my baked cupcakes. I had to bake and decorate four hundred and eighty rainbow cupcakes overnight for her. This event also

gave me the courage to start off professionally with ‘Just Baked’ because I realised that very day my potential to bake and supply goodies in large quantities. What‘s the best part about being a baker? I would say it is the opportunity to try new things and be able to express yourself through this art form. There is so much you can do in terms of creativity. If I hadn’t tried out professional baking, maybe I wouldn’t have gotten into the habit of buying more baking appliances and trying them out. I love collecting baking tools. Any special information for the clients this season from Just Baked? Check out my Facebook page justbakedhs. There will be winter goody bags on display with assorted baked treats inside. Hope you enjoy having them as much as I enjoyed baking them.



Community

Lifting the Spirit Rubab Nayeem Khan looks back at TaalGoal, an event organised by Dhaka Hub of Global Shapers

n November 6, Global Shapers organised TaalGoal, a football tournament for the underprivileged children in Dhaka. Sixteen teams, comprising of boys and girls between the ages of 10-14 participated in TaalGoal. The tournament was created to give these kids a platform to showcase their athletic skills as well as to break free from their constant struggle to make ends meet. Members of the Dhaka Hub of Global Shapers, an initiative of the World Economic Forum (WEF), Saif Kamal and Sohara Mehroze Shachi believe that sports can be a force for change that inspires an inclusive society where no child is denied the basic right to recreation, regardless of class and status. “Such initiatives can help children grow up feeling they are valued members of the society,” said Kamal. 22

The event kicked off in full swing with one hundred and twenty eight children hailing from various communities across Dhaka. When asked about the credibility of this event Saif said, “The tournament brought together sixteen teams which comprised of both adolescent boys and girls, from nine slums across Dhaka. This tournament highlighted the potential of these children who don’t receive enough attention from the society.” The Global Shapers further added how overwhelmed the children were during the tournament. “They were ecstatic and took the tournament very seriously. The audience gave their full support for the participating teams.” For the Global Shapers, TaalGoal was the first step in reaching out to the slums of Dhaka and giving them a sense of belonging. “It is the first step for us to know them and vice versa. While we will continue the sports initiative and

take it further. The biggest achievement was to give them a source of entertainment and feel included,” shared Saif. Saif and Sohara mentioned that they intend to hold the tournament annually. Once the event becomes popular, they can secure bigger sponsorship deals and increase the number of participating slums. Through this event, Dhaka Hub of Global Shapers sought to bridge the gap between communities. The match was held at the National Handball Stadium from 10am - 8pm. Footballer Badal Rai graced the occasion as the chief guest and renowned sports commentator Chowdhury Zafarullah Sharafat was also present at the event. Nawshin Khair Hema, Director of Bengal Foundation, Robert Gibson British High Commissioner and Mark Clayton, Deputy High Commissioner were present at the event as special guests.



Urban Escape

Happening Curator Shehzad Chowdhury explains to Aidha Cader how ‘Longitude and Latitude 6’ is changing the art circuit in Dhaka In the midst of all the congestion in North Dhaka, the scope for artistic expression is somewhat limited to the growing cluster of retail shops, restaurants and buildings. However events such as Art Bazaar, poetry reading by Syed Ali Imam, creative writing workshop or even the clay workshop by Nazmul Haque keep the art scene alive. Such events see amateurs and professionals showcasing their work and interacting with the audience alongside giving a fresh approach to the display and engagement. According to Shehzad Chowdhury, the curator, ‘Art Happenings’ are creating ripples in our cultural space. “We don’t merely exhibit art in a traditional sense but we create a common space, granted temporary, that bring together various genres of

art that engage with the audience.” At a glance, an ‘Art Happening’ is a cross between art exhibition and theatrical performance. L&L6 has organised over eighty such events since 2003. It has staged the seat friends’ lofts, art galleries, backyards, vacant houses, office spaces and also at Beauty Boarding in Old Dhaka. “The whole concept is that we don’t rent out the space; we use up vacant space in transition and thereby there is no financial cost to L&L6 or the artists,” comments Shehzad. This fluid structure that is constantly moving depending on availability of space is also creating a new outlook for the artist and the patrons. “Every aspect of L&L6 is based on volunteerism and goodwill with a vision to promote and create awareness of the arts,” he adds.

“At a glance, an ‘Art Happening’ is a cross between art exhibition and theatrical performance. L&L6 has organised over eighty such events since 2003” - Shehzad Chowdhury

Photographs by Ashraf Uddin Apu

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“Be it a painting or a performance, some artists feel that tge traditional establishments are too intimidating.Here, we are able to create an environment to showcase their work that is less structured and yet more engaging,” he further explains. The audience is involved more than just being a detached observer. With multiple genres of art held in a single space there is cross influences for which the audience is able to interact. This, as Shehzad claims, “Creates combustion of interesting interactions.” He further adds, “Art is the great connector, it connects people, it changes attitudes and it influences culture.” As an artist himself, Shehzad believes that the most important part of art is the audience and how they engage with the work of art. This is the ideology behind L&L6 approach in presenting art. He further adds, “This interaction is important for the growth and influence of various types of art which can filter into our mainstream culture.” L&L6 is undoubtedly a bold concept that has grown from strength to strength. As they wind down their 6th edition of ‘Art Happening’ by bringing artists from various fields including visual art, performance art, music, drama, poetry, writing, sculpting and such to a multi layered audience and patrons, they are able to create a symphony of cultural enrichment.



Gourmet

A Royal Spread This year’s Chinese Food Festival 2015 was hosted and organised by Pan Pacific Sonargaon Dhaka in collaboration with China Radio International, Idachu Limited China and the Embassy of the People’s Republic of China in Bangladesh. The festival provided a five-day foodie wonderland of Chinese menu and drinks, starting from 3rd to 7th November. With over seven Chinese chefs arriving from different parts of China, each

26

The professional chefs with years of experience performed live food demonstrations to amaze all the guests who indulged in this festival at Cafe Bazar Restaurant.

served their finest dishes and beverages for the ultimate gastronomic feast. The professional chefs with years of experience performed live food demonstrations to amaze all the guests who indulged in this festival at Cafe Bazar Restaurant. Creative cooking workshops and traditional Chinese performances were also a key attraction on the opening day of the festival. Dinner buffet prices ranged from Tk 3500 per person.



Hangout

ARCTIC OCEAN

Ashfaque Zaman has the privilige of exploring the global cuisines at O Kitchen with Ali Arsalan, the marketing and finance director of the restaurant

Barrow

Arctic Circle Fort Yukon Nome

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horage NY Cheesecake - Anc Tk600 Rankin Cordova Inlet The Empire State towers above Paella Deluxe - Tk2000Nuuk (Two persons) everything, and so does the O Kitchen Juneau Fort The Spaniards are known for the joyous Chipewyan cheesecake. However, you don’t have to Bear Churchill nature and love for seafood; one’s eyes will Unalaska Fort C A N A climb a skyscraper to satisfy your sweetLake McMurray D A Inukjuaknot be able to resist the brilliant orange, Dawson Prince Rup tooth. The accompanying Holey Artisan ert Grande Creek Thompson Prairie reds and yellows of the decadent paella. Flin Flon Prince Bakery uses the finest quality Prin ce George Red Albert The paella is a kaleidoscope of colours and Deer Philadelphia cream cheese for their flavours that is as scenic as the Saskatoon cheese cake. With each bite the velvety VancouKamloops Calgary Labrador City ver Swift Mediterranean coast. The vibrant hues, Moosonee cake dissolves in the mouth. A hint of Current Brandon Spokane Williston unique smell of the sea present in this lemon and a crumbly crust consisting of Seattle Tim Gra min nd Forks Butte s Amos signature dish will satiate any seafood brown sugar, butter, cinnamon and DilisticPortland Duluth Minneapolis Twin craving. A combination of fresh white fish, Ottawa biscuits balances this delectable dessert; Falls Montreal sea bass, lagoon prawns, squids and MilWawkee Scottsbluff these elements bring the zest of lemon Detroit Reno Omaha Chicago Provo scallops; the creaminess of the special Buff alo PA Denver and which is not C aI sweetness Oakland Bos San Francisc ton FIC Kan sas City o Bomba (soft grain) rice is slowly cooked in Baltimore New York overpoweringly sugary. U. S. A. St. Louis Philadelphia Washington Las Vegas the chef’s signature fish stock, fumett, Albuquerque O Kitchen is a transporting culinary Los Angeles D. C. Memphis Norfolk brings out the aroma in the seafood. which Charlott e experience; their attention to authenticitySan Diego Tucson Dallas Birmingham Atlanta The soft rice is contrasted with the bite of of the dish is a journey to the country New Orleans seafood. The various textures and Houston Jacksonville from which it has originated. They have A T L Aand Tropic of Cancer N aTsqueeze infusions of garlic, saffron IC Tampa freshly baked bread along with an of fresh lemon further heighten the MEXICO assortment of jams and marmalade from THE BAHA MAS Havana Mexico wonderful complexities of this dish. Holey Artisan Bakery, as well as fresh City CUBA seasonal juices. Tropic DOM.

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Around the World in 80 Minutes The Spanish royalty had sent Cortez in search of the cocoa bean. Countless caramel caravans carried spices like cloves, cinnamon, and pepper. The commodities were once considered more valuable than money and gold. Man has explored treacherous seas and unknown lands in order to appease their appetites. An excursion around the world is just beside the tranquil Gulshan Lake at O Kitchen. The Argentinian born chefs were professional trained in Madrid; honing their culinary expertise to master cuisine throughout the continents.

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To find out about the entrepreneurial exploits of O Kitchen’s owner, Ali Arsalan, check out ICE Business Times’ December 2015 issue or visit www.icebusinesstimes.net

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Warsaw

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Toulouse

Casablanca

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Berlin

FRANCE

Nantes

Bayonne Porto

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London

Belaja Gor

Batagay

Helsinki Tallinn ESTONIA

DENMARK

Gastón Palacios, head chef at O Kitchen with his signature Beef Wagyu steak

Archangelsk

Vaasa

Stockholm

Sunderland

Cork

FINLAND

NORWAY Oslo

Dublin IRELAND

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Ust-Olenek Khatanga

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Wagyu Steak - Tk2000 Those of you who love the O quality of Wagyu N unsurpassed E S I A will not have to travel to the eastern islands of Japan. As, Port Mo one cuts into the steak, the resby seared brown exterior reveals the medium-rare tender pink Broome Cairns Tennant Creek has been grilled Port Hedland interior, which NEW to perfection. Each Mac morsel melts Alice CALEDONIA kay Spri with everyngsbite. The thick Gorgonzola AUSTRALIA sauce is sharp and bane Kalgoorliecreamy, accentuating the Bris robust Cook world-class meat, without Bourke lending an additional Adelaide Canberra Syd ney overpowering element. The bourne steak itself is Mel extremely succulent, retaining all the natural juices. PAPUA NEW GUINEA

BOTSWANA ZIMBAB WE

Tropic of Ca

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Learmonth Carnarvon

OCEAN

Geraldton Perth

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Photographs by Farhan Ahmed

Arctic Circle

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NEW ZEAL

Auckland

Wellington

AND

Dunedin


Gizmo Through the Lens’ (TTL) Saud A Faisal answers common FAQs about the gears best suited for travel photography

Quick

Shot

I would recommend zoom lens ranging from 24-70mm or 24-105mm for all purpose use as well as for travel photography. If it’s a place with good architectural view, you can go for an ultra-wide lens like 16-35mm--it gives magical results.’

water resistant Go pro Hero 4 is the best solution. But the fixed wide angle lens sometimes becomes boring. There are other water proof cameras that can be used during boating or kayaking such as the Olympus Tough TG-4. You should also remember that there are waterproof cases available for any cameras you use. What lenses are essential for capturing the details of nature, urban and rural life? Every photographer has their own comfort and style while choosing the type of lenses they want, however I would recommend zoom lenses ranging from 24-70mm or 24-105mm for all purpose use as well as for travel photography. If it’s a place with good architectural view, you can go for an ultra-wide lens like 16-35mm--it gives magical results. However, for portrait and landscape previously mentioned lenses (24-70/105) will come in handy. When travelling by kayaks or boats, which water resistant lenses or cameras can be used in order to avoid damage to the equipment? For any action or adventure, the

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How does one take care of high-end camera equipment when the climate is unpredictable? Keeping the cameras and lenses in a desiccator with silicon gel always prevents humidity when stored at home. If you’re travelling though, covering it with just a rain coat will suffice. Just make sure to wipe off any moisture with a clean, dry cotton cloth. It is always wise to keep a duct blower and lens cleaning kit handy when travelling, also the camera bag must be a weather proof bag to ensure the camera’s safety. Where are these products available in Bangladesh and what are the price ranges? There are some stores in IDB and Bashundhara City where camera care kits are available. Camera zone, Rangs showrooms also sell camera and lens care kits. Helpful places to buy or order online are fb/jontropati.com or jontropati.net. They house a good range of necessary accessories. In case of an alternative, what other camera or filming equipment can be used? GoPro is a good alternative to conventional cameras. However, in most of my travel experiences I found my iPhone doing a fairly decent job as well.



Bookworm

Ashfaque Zaman bookmarks the literary works for every kind of traveller No matter where your travel destinations take you, a good read into the world of fictitious characters will only make those holidays a little more meaningful.

Les Miserables by Victor Hugo Known as one of the greatest historical novelists of all time, Hugo writes an epic novel that encompasses politics, religion, family and love during one of the most tumultuous times in French history. The story revolves around five tales that involve Valjean trying to escape from police officer Javert. Hugo poignantly tackles the flaws of hypocrisy and ill-nature of the larger entity that is an ineffective government.

Thing Fall Apart by Chinua Achebe For the serious travellers, who want to engulf themselves in a reality that would be unorthodox, Achebe illustrates the story of Okonkwo. An acclaimed wrester in his village, Okonkwo values his masculinity over everything; his desire to prove this is further elevated in an attempt to nullify his father’s dismissive reputation. Okonwo adopts a boy from a neighbouring village, unfortunately his concern for his reputation leads him down a path of destruction; a heart wrenching story of a family and their demise as a result of pride and ego. 32

The Five People You Meet in Heaven by Mitch Albom Venturing into a new terrain can be turbulent enough. Albom’s The Five People You Meet in Heaven offers an inspirational insight into life. Eddie, the head of maintenance at an amusement park, meets his demise in a terrible accident as he attempts to rescue a girl from the perils of a defective cart ride. He wakes up in heaven as a rejuvenated, youthful man and gets introduced to a person simply known as the Blue Man. The tale continues with Eddie meeting five other people in heaven, learning an inspirational life lesson from each one.



Word on the Street

Tk 690

Be a Sport

Nahid Tabassum chooses a variety of sports gear and tools from Daraz.com to update your fitness kit!

Tk 1890

Super K scooter Equipped with ABEC bearings, these cool two wheeler scooters have wheels that make the ride smooth and all the more fun. The stem can be adjusted according to height. Apart from having fun, this will be your best buddy on a chilly winter night out with friends.

We all want lean, long, toned arms, don’t we? These bars will work magic on your triceps and biceps. It also gives you a superb range of motion that will strengthen your muscles more efficiently. Compact and easy to carry, you can get your dose of arm workouts anywhere

Super K Inline Skater Speed to glory with these awesome skaters! Practice your stunts at home and the world is your stage. It’s time to move away from the computer screens, get your skaters on and enjoy the cold winter air!

Tk 550

TK 1500

Dadou Long Boxing Gloves

gS

pra

y

From stress busting to body building, boxing builds those muscles and fuels your power like no other. For the fist that packs a mean punch, these boxing gloves are a must-have!

Re lie

vin

Anti Fog, UV Protection PC, silicone PU. Your swimming gear is incomplete without these anti-fog goggles. Dive into the pool under the sun while these UV-protected goggles guide you underwater.

Pai n

Tk 490

Mo ov

Super k Table Tennis Combo Set

Tk 500

Be it a sprain or a spasm, Moov never lets you down. Portable and efficient, it gets the job done. Your workouts won’t suffer a pause when you have this spray for instant relief. Keep it handy.

Table tennis balances swiftness and precision which is a great way to stay fit. The adrenaline rush from a half hour game is a great way to de-stress!

Tk 2590

Phtographs from Daraz.com

Ninja Push up bar

Super K Swimming Goggles



Musing

Photograph by Kazi Ahnaf Aquib

Badruzzahan Ahmed elaborates on the unique adventures of a proud Bangladeshi passport holder

Woes of the Green Book “Step aside please.” The man stared through his scrutinising eyes, leering at me from behind the metal barred window. I gulped and hoped that wasn’t visible. He looked at me once and then back at my passport. He turned over to the cover, flinching visibly at the name before moving on to the pages. He flipped through several times while stealing suspicious glances at me in between. I saw him pause at the pages with the so-called ‘hard-to-get’ visas. I could not help but notice the awkward stares from the crowd that came from every possible nationality behind me. While he turned his attention to the three books of passport that I had stapled together, probably wondering how and why someone my height and age had managed to accumulate all these immigration stamps on the green book that I always felt so proud of. I looked back at the location that I was standing at. It was the Poipet – Aranyaprathet 36

Nepal and Sri Lanka, two of the most happening travel destinations in the world alongside many African countries allow on-arrival visas for Bangladeshi passport holders.

border between Cambodia and Thailand. It had a visible sign there stating the seven nationalites that were ‘not allowed’ to cross that border. Bangladesh was one of them. Additionally, while nationals from other countries were privileged with visas on arrival and a friendly nod of welcome, we, the ‘green-book-holders’ were not. As I shifted from foot to foot, I wondered if it was the very fact of not being allowed to cross this border that had actually driven me to want to cross it? Surely the ‘Green Book Owners’ who have been blessed enough to travel far and wide across international borders are familiar with this scenario. Holding a Bangladeshi passport and travelling to the lesser known places has its concomitant ‘thrills’, if I may put it that way. Of course, the “thrill” I describe here is being perused more than once, or being questioned suspiciously by immigration authorities because you hold a passport that states “People’s Republic of Bangladesh” boldly on the cover. At least that’s a reason I could guess. It is not easy to travel with a Bangladeshi passport. We are not privileged with many diplomatic

benefits as a nation. Sure, you could blame it single handedly on the respective authorities for not facilitating these international travel benefits for us. However, unknown to many there are many countries which do give us the rare travel benefits. Nepal and Sri Lanka, two of the most happening travel destinations in the world alongside many African countries allow on-arrival visas for Bangladeshi passport holders. Also, for Bangladeshis the charge for visas in several countries in Asia, especially the SAARC countries is cheaper in contrast to passport holders of other countries. India, the land of monuments, allows Bangladeshis to enter their amazing sites with a reduced price upon presenting the Bangladeshi passport. There you go! The silver lining of the grey cloud, or should I say, the ‘green cloud!’ And in case you were wondering if I made it through the Poipet-Aranyaprathet border, I did. But that came with a lot of drama. You see, human kindness goes beyond the colour of the identification book you hold in your hand. But that dramatic story I will save for another day.



Yay or nay to screen time?

Tender Loving Care Natasha Sabrin Khan gives you a lowdown on the detriments of children staring at computer screens regularly

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t is now common to find a toddler staring at the iPad while the parent spoonfeeds the baby in diapers. If you have a two year old baby, most likely your smart devices are loaded with children’s apps. But, what are the consequences of letting toddlers spend time in front of screens regularly? Effects on health Long hours of looking at screens tire the eyes and can affect eyesight in the long run. Your child’s sleep pattern may be hampered if she is exposed to the bright screen before bedtime. The hindrance in regular sleep cycle will make your bundle of joy cranky and this entire disruption is utterly unhealthy. Too much screen time also means little time for physical activity- which results in child obesity. Effects on motor skills Your child might be able to sing the alphabet song, but what really matters more at this age is their ability to stash blocks and kick a beach ball. If they have the

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freedom to spend hours in front of screens regularly, then their motor skills and hand to eye co-ordination may not develop properly. Nabita, mother of a five year old son from recently shifted to Singapore from Bangladesh, comments on her son’s condition said. “During his school assessment , I came to know that my healthy five year old boy has deficiency in age appropriate motor skills-due to his over exposure to screens.” Effects on mind Kids who spend too much time looking at the screen have a hard time concentrating on reading boks because their brains become too accustomed to bright, moving images. Their attention span becomes much shorter and they find it hard to focus on immobile items and get bored very easily. Not such a good news for grades either. Effects on social skills It is essential that children communicate with others to learn social and cognitive behaviour. Kids who spend ample time playing

and interacting with others, are found to have shown more aptitude at continuing a meaningful conversation by age two compared to kids who are more into having daily dose of screen time. These are some deductions from researches conducted by the AAP (American Association of Pediatrics)- which emphasizes on spending zero hours of screen from birth till their second birthday. When asked if his kids love the iPad, Steve Jobs comments, “They haven’t used it. We limit how much technology they use at home.” CEO of 3D Robotics, Chris Anderson, once explained he is an overly restrictive parent about tech use at home, “Because I have seen the dangers of technology firsthand.” If big bosses of new generation tech feel that kids should have minimum or no exposure to screen time, then maybe as parents, we need to re-think before handing over smart devices to our toddler so that we can feed and nurture them in peace.



Fashion Travelogue 1

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Check mate

Be it sunny or gloomy, these threads are chic yet casual and are sure to grab the spotlight.

Model: Isha and Razz Wardrobe: Reluce Makeup and Hair: Farzana Shakil’s Photography: Riyad Ashraf

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International Designer

LA’s most beloved street fashion designer Michael Luis aka M comes to Dhaka looking for inspiration. Tamzidur Rahman catches up with him.

Work the Ramp “I draw inspiration for my designs from my travels. I have lived in many parts of the world including Peru, India, and China. Every time I bring out a collection, I incorporate colours, culture and fabrics of a country.”

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Designer Simplicio Michael Luis, founder of Haus of M, has been designing for near about two decades. He has established a name for himself in the United States especially in the fashion circles of Los Angeles. Having worked with well-known names and celebrities like Britney Spears, The Black Eyed Peas and Carly Rae-Jensen, Michael is looking to further expand his diversity of work. With a strong portfolio of design, fashion, apparel, merchandising, the man has proven to be a strong presence in the international luxury fashion industry. Michael has worked hard and travelled wide in order to promote cultures from all over the world in his work. “I draw inspiration for my designs from my travels. I have lived in many parts of the world including Peru, India, and China. Every time I bring out a collection, I incorporate colours, culture and fabrics of a country. I try to bring out the interesting aspects of a culture in my work. Considering, I myself am an amalgamation of different races – Spanish, Chinese and Filipino – it is important to me that I explore the beauty that you can find in cultures throughout the world. Every season I try to pick a certain style. This next season I’m going to showcase in March, I’m

going to attempt to take from Bangladesh,” shares the designer. “Asia is an exciting next step for me. I’m very familiar with Asia and it is comfortable to me. My parents moved from the Philippines to the US when I was five. I’m Asian and I’ve wanted to come to Asia – it’s just timing that was a barrier,” says Michael. He considers this plan of expansion to be part of natural evolution in his creative as well as business ventures. “I’ve been through all these steps starting off as an intern to becoming an assistant designer then designer and all the way up to becoming a creative director. I am now a business owner – the next step for me logically is to become a manufacturer. The Asian market is where I want to tap into. I believe it has strong potential.” For a major part of his career Michael has worked in the luxury market; now he believes it’s his time to delve into a moderate priced appeal. “In the Asian market, it’s much easier to expand into the mass market with one cohesive message as opposed to, say, LA where fashion is driven by trend. I think in Asia if you buy into the business, you buy in as a whole. So that’s very exciting,” shares Michael. The globetrotting, award winning designer has seen much of the world, achieved a great deal – his is one to watch out for.



Fashion Travelogue 2

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Spellbound Hold her gaze and be transformed to a land of euphoria Model: Riba Wardrobe: Zoan Ash by Sultana A Accessories: Parineta Gold and Sultana A’s personal wardrobe Makeup and Hair: Farzana Shakil’s Photography: Riyad Ashraf Location: Olea, Pool Café & 15 Above at Le Méridien Dhaka

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RSVP

Bridal Bonanza ICE Today painted the town red with WPPB Bridal Festival powered by Aura Beauty Lounge. The glitz and glam of the three-day fair amused and entertained thousands of visitors. A number of 60 different stalls showcased their various offerings starting from wardrobe need to wedding planning. The fashion show was a crowd-pleaser featuring ensembles from O2, Mansha, Almira by Shahrukh Amin, Tangail Sari Kutir, Warah and Manyavar.

Photographs from Wedding and Portrait Photographers Bangladesh

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Shop # 22, (2nd Floor), Pink City Shopping Complex, Gulshan # 2, Dhaka-1212, Phone: 02 8881342, 8881362, Mob: 01778999900 E-mail: nakshatragold@ymail.com, www.nakshatragold.com www.facebook.com/NakshatraGold.bd



Fashion Travelogue 3

Essentially Ethnic

Nothing speaks attitude better than bold colours. Gifted and gorgeous, you’ve got your game on.

Model: Mashiat Wardrobe: Tenzing Chakma Makeup and Hair: Farzana Shakil’s Photography: Topu Rehaman Set design: Eskay

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Makeover

Follow Me if You Can Inspired by Murad Osmann’s iconic travel pictures, Farzana Shakil teamed up with Aidha Cader to give you a fashionista makeover that will create a runway in every city!

Into the blue Eyes Apply a coral blue eyeshadow across the lids and along the lower lash lines. Silver eye shadow is blended as highlights. Black eye liner is drawn across the lash lines extending outwards followed by mascara on the lashes. Cheeks Peach tone blusher is applied. Lips A base tone lipstick with a touch of gloss. Hair The locks can be divided into strands and curled. A scarf is tied like a turban over the lower strands of hair. Silver beaded chain is attached at the base of the turban.

Model: Afsana Photographer: Riyadh Ashraf Wardrobe and accessories from SCICCOSO

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Desert rose Eyes Orange and brown eye shadow is blended across the lids. Gold eyeshadow is used as a highlighter and blended below the brows. Black eyeliner is used to define the lash lines followed by a coating of mascara on the lashes. Cheeks Bronze tone blusher is blended onto the cheeks. Lips A deep brown lipstick is used to give that wild carefree look. Hair Strands of hair are spiralled and kept loose. The hair at the crown is backcombed to create a lift while the front of the hair is divided at the centre and brought forward.

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Big city life Eyes A deep maroon eye shadow and silver eyeshadow is blended across the lids. Black eye liner is drawn across the lash lines followed by mascara on lashes. Cheeks Maroon and beige blusher is blended onto the cheeks. Lips A gold tone lipstick is applied. Hair A low ponytail is tied and the hair is twisted around to create an unstructured bun.

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Culture Vulture

Photograph by Zareef Cader

One for the road

Staying within the fringes of mainstream cultures, Aidha Cader, ICE Today’s culture connoisseur has inculcated an appreciation for food, history, travel and art beyond her comfort zone. 72

lthough, travelling is the best way to experience new cultures, in many instances it can be a disappointing ordeal. Where there is the warm anticipation of the thousand year old monument right next to you and the crisp hope of witnessing scenic and sublime beauty of pristine beaches, there’s also the contrasting thirst to step into the unknown, explore “the real” as opposed to the “touristy.” Most travellers miss out on the non-tourist attractions of the country they visit. A mass of tourists streaming out of buses, the smell of McDonald's chicken nuggets drowning the aroma of the local stir-fried noodles served in the alleyway. All the selfie sticks hoisted up and the relentless attempts for a clear view of historical monuments – irregularity and turmoil, funnily enough, is a constant. If you are a traveller who wants to get away from such dilemmas it’s time to throw away the travel guidebooks, add caution to your adventures, and take the road less travelled.

authentic dish or hunting down “hidden treasures.” You might be unable to tick off every “must see” landmark; nevertheless, being flexible is all part of the experience. In today’s “share all” social media world it’s easy to fall into the trap of new and trending “hot spots.” However, it’s also important to break free, step back and follow your instincts instead.

Getting off the beaten track can mean different things for people. It could be discovering a new region, eating an

For a more daring streak, go alone. Albeit a little scary, it can also be a life-changing experience. When you

Plan as little as possible; book the flight, check-in to a hotel for one night and prepare for the unknown. It is best to take a short, organised tour to get the feel of a new country before starting to explore on your own. Asking the locals and seeing what they recommend is the best way to start. Locals usually love directing people to interesting sights. If you don’t speak the local language, use online meet-up sites to set up coffee meetings with willing expats or English students. You can also use translator apps to help you out. Avoid asking the hotel concierge or taxi drivers as they often direct you to touristy hangouts.


travel by yourself you’re less distracted and more flexible, thereby more likely to spot unusual sights and events. Unusual places are everywhere, hidden in plain sight; you just have to make a little more effort to uncover them. The mode of transport is crucial to accessing the unknown. Beyond the big cities there are countless beautiful little towns and villages that are often missed due to domestic air travel. Hire a motorbike, car or cycle - this will let you go places fewer people get to visit. Though the idea of such travel is to throw away the map, it’s not a bad idea to break the rules by keeping the map or GPS tucked away, you know, just in case. Public transport is also a great way to travel like a local. This may not support any romantic notions you have of a destination, but it will help you get a better grasp of how it really is. Buses weave through residential areas you would never see on a tourist coach. Trains are also a great way to view the countryside. Even the world’s most popular destinations have hidden delights; back alleys and secret doorways let you glimpse a place from a fresh angle. In such big cities choose a road and walk in one direction. In less than an hour you’ll almost certainly be somewhere completely new. You see, the places in between destinations are where the real people live. Walking is the perfect speed to get a sense of the landscape, and experience the subtle changes in culture, cuisine, weather and

everything else that makes the city beyond the famous glossy image. Even the biggest tourist trap can feel like a new discovery if you sidestep the crowds. Try to avoid high seasons, the prices are also cheaper and sites are less crowded. Yes, you may risk bad weather but you may also stumble across an event or activity not available during the peak season. If you do end up travelling during the high season, time your visits to the major sights in order to avoid tour buses and peak hours. If there’s a spot that gets busloads of people at sunrise, go at sunset instead. Sometimes you may have to sacrifice seeing something at the best time of day for the sake of having it all to yourself. Don’t plan every second and research every detail on the Internet before you begin. Having a sense of mystery is an essential part of the journey. Give yourself enough slack to let events unfold naturally. Factor in the time to meet the people, explore alleyways, and take those buses to nowhere. Such travel experiences are not without some risks, so take basic safety precautions. Check travel advice and research health risks before heading out. The final tip is to pack light but remain self-sufficient. A sleeping bag, tent, down jacket, reliable rucksack and comfy hiking shoes are important. Also today’s essentials - a quite as liberating as standing on the camera, smart phone and charging shores of a new country with your life on your back and no fixed plans. devices are vital. There’s no feeling 73



Cover Focus

Around & Beyond

Bangladesh Susom

Reema

Badru

Shuttling in and out of home and work, the world around us presents itself as a myriad of chaos. Amid that chaos however, there are those who are adventurous travellers and passionate photographers. Sit back and allow us to spoil you with the tales of these bold few. Roam the world cinematically as environmental researcher, Md Ashraful Haque, kayaks into the riverine Bangladesh. Call home base in the wild with adventurer Shamim Shorif Susom and his friends, as he experiences amazing weeklong trips to Tanguar Haor, St Martin’s Island and the Bandarbans. Reema Islam from Relief

Amitabh

Ashraf

International explores our lost ancestry through her binoculars as she journeys through the Sundarbans and heritage sites such as Bhitargarh in Panchagarh and Mahastangarh. Our foods too is an amalgamation of regions, cultures and love; let’s have Amitabh Dewry, food critic and journalist shed light on the wondrous cuisine of Bengal. Last but not the least, Badruzzahan Ahmed, teaching assistant at BRAC University, Department of Architecture and a travel enthusiast shares her secret tips on backpacking and keeping the high-flying vacations pocket-friendly. It’s time to hit the road, Jack!

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Wanderlust

Farasha Khan Sayeed is transferred to the stunning scenic beauties of Bangladesh as she listens to photographer and nature lover Shamim Shorif Susom describe an amazing weeklong trip to three striking natural sites to the northeast and southeast of our motherland

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More than One Heaven

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The restless shutter bug The breathtaking solitude of the tanguar haor was worth every click

TANGUAR HAOR Located in the northwest part of Sylhet , Susom set out for Tanguar Haor along with 11 other friends. Being a destination famous for finding various migratory birds, Tanguar Haor has also been declared a Ramsar site for being a wetland of international importance. Its 100 sq km area located in the Sunamgonj district is also the biggest natural fishery in the country. However, Susom and his friends made the 7 hour journey to Sylhet, with an additional 4 hour to Tahirpur Bazaar to hire boats for the Haor, just to bask in its natural beauty and to take a break from the city life. Before embarking on the boat trip into the magnificent haor, the group had a shopping and dining break which served delicious fresh fish caught and cooked immediately. Accompanied by veggies and bhorta, he claims it was possibly the best meal he ever had, and only for a meager sum of Tk80! They ensured a month-long stock up on food items as well as other supplies such as ropes, torchlight and matches. What he describes next seems to be a journey made for dreams. Hiring a houseboat fit for 15 people for 24 hours to 78

be spent on the tranquil waters of the haor, under the vast open sky, the small windows did no justice to the view. The haor waters is crystal clear, with the seaweed underneath giving the whole place a blackish-blue effect. It is covered in small islands filled with hijol trees, with the hilly backdrop of Meghalaya and Mizoram which decorates the border of Bangladesh. Unlike any other trip, they were not armed with any map or plan, they were just there enjoying that very moment. Susom guided their boatman into a narrow place with two lines of willow trees on either side and went for a swim with his friends. Although it was well after sunset by the time they got back into the boat, him and his companions wanted to get off on an island where the local boys were playing football and join them! Usually, boys came from other islands on boats to join in a match of islanders versus visitors. The big city dwellers were no match for the strong, “iron-legged” island boys, and soon Susom and his friends left the match, bruised and dehydrated but elated from the experience. Although their initial plan had been to

eat on the boat, the group was invited by their boatman to eat at his in-laws’ house in one of the islands. They could not understand the local dialect of the boatman’s family, but the hospitality needed no language – it showed in the way they provided 12 mismatched chairs and plates in order to serve their guests. However, they decided to eat the meal cooked by the boatman’s wife under the open sky on the boat. Under a full moonlit night with his friends, a simple meal of mach bhaja,bhorta and achar was a beautiful experience. After dinner, they lay down on the roof of the boats admiring the dark cloudy sky above. That night, the boatman had free reign to go wherever he desired while they chatted with each other, snacking on a delicious mixture of jhalmur. The night made way into morning with a view of a beautiful sunrise. With a disappointing trip to Ratargul, which should be visited during heavy rainy season to get the best out of the place, they quickly changed their plan and decided to move onto Lalakhal instead. A two hour bus ride from Sylhet brought them to Lalakhal; a beautiful


river on the northeast of Sylhet. Commonly toured on boat during the day to take in the magnificent vista surrounding it, Susom’s group decided to go the unconventional way and take a boat ride during the night. Through the foggy night they could see the sandy shores of the embankments and the twinkling of lights on the hills around them. The trip ended with a stopover at King Bridge in Sylhet town, which is a small adaptation of the London Bridge, complete with its own Big Ben, or what is locally known as Asghorer Ghori. ST MARTIN’S ISLAND Meeting up with a friend in St Martins, Susom feasted at Shaheen Hotel which was famous for its barbecue. They were served mouthwatering kalachandas, along with fresh lobsters and hilsa fry, and it goes without saying how scrumptious the whole meal was. He travelled to Cheradeep taking photos and admiring the beauty of the coral island. Some pebbles that he had managed to collect were the only souvenirs he could bring back from that trip. According to him, Cheradeep is beautiful with or without moonlight. With moonlight, you are bathed in its glory with no cloud and no pollution. Without it, you can see thousands of stars light up the sky. BANDARBAN The adventurous Susom

Partners in Crime Susom captures a candid moment of the chirpy gang Blue crush St Martins Island- every nature lover’s private retreat

then moved onto Bandarban, an old favourite of his to explore its gloriousness. His main intent for visiting Bandarban at the time was to see the Prabarana Purnima. However, upon reaching the King’s home, he found that it had been delayed by a day for the King. Not wanting to waste a moment, Susom visited the Golden Temple (also known as Buddho Dhatu Jadi in Bengali) instead and took some photos. Since the puja was still going on, the entire hill was lit up with candles. Just when he was about to take a picture, there was a power cut and Susom captured a great photo which was accentuated by the candlelight and the moonlight. Right after that, hundreds of fanush were released into the night sky as they watched, signifying the floating away of worry. With the breathtaking view of the floating lanterns embossed in his mind, Susom then went on to see Meghla. He states that Meghla was once so overpopulated as a tourist spot, that now nobody visited it anymore. Susom viewed hundreds of jujube trees, and the

the numerous parrots which graced its branches was an added beauty. So enthralled was he by their splendour that he forgot to take any pictures. After lunch, Susom went on to Nilachol from where he could see the city in all its glory along the hills. Around 8 pm, the lanterns were again released from the King’s place, known as Rajar Hut. Added to the lanterns, there were now fireworks which bejeweled the night sky. 6 lanterns were released per minute, so Susom lost count of how many he could see in front of his eyes. This festival went on till midnight; however our traveler only had two hours before he had to set out to board his bus back to the city of traffic and monotony. Just before setting off, the crème was added to his trip when he saw a rally similar to the one seen during a Chinese new year with dancing dragons. Thus ended his trip with a cruise on a beautiful water body, under the sun in the middle of the sea and roaming the curves of the mountainous regions of our beautiful country. 79


Ecotourism

Serene Symbiosis The EU supported project ‘Promotion of Local Culture in the Sundarbans Impact Zone (SIZ) in Bangladesh through Cultural Ecotourism and Entrepreneurship’ establishes appreciation of the culture and ecology in the Sundarbans Impact Zone in Bangladesh. The idea is to incite promotion through the development of cultural tourism and entrepreneurship. The project generates income for the locals who are reliant on the Sundarbans mangrove forest and promotes the local culture of the territory. It also works on building the capacity of local communities and private sector entities on ecotourism as well as the eco-tour guides. Furthermore, it acts as a tool for establishing links between eco-tour operators and cultural actors. In the process, skills of local cultural actors are enriched and a relationship between them and private sector tour operators is created. The project was made concrete with community consultation where meetings were held. It 80

Photographs by Relief International

Reema Islam from Relief International (RI) sheds light on the development of cultural tourism and entrepreneurship in the Sundarbans

Enjoy a lovely stay at the Mangrove Eco Cottage & Tree House at Vojonkhali, Banishanta, Dacope and Khulna. For more details contact www.ri.bangladesh.org involved making infrastructural changes - like the use of local resources such as, Gol pata for thatched roofing and bamboo for making cottages. Other developments were implemented such as employing local labour, fixing the roads, building a jetty at the entrance of each site for the accessibility of travellers. After the initial infrastructure was set up, an ample amount of individuals from the community were given training to become eco-guides, boatmen, organic aquaculture fishermen and performers of the cultural teams. The project provides a medium for visitors to get a sense of how these locals live in the vicinity of a UNESCO World Heritage Site (WHS) and ecologically critical areas like the Sundarbans. They can participate in agricultural work, such as

fishing at the local pond (set up by RI) and also help breed local livestock. For recreation, a local cultural troupe performs songs, dances, and plays which have a traditional feel. They primarily perform the Bon Bibi natok. The cultural troupes are also unique as the Satkhira-Shyamnagar sites are situated in the region of the Munda community, a unique ethnic community that hails from Chhatisgarh in India. They arrived in Bangladesh approximately 300 years ago and have a distinct language Shadri bhasha. This project highlights and promotes their unique culture.



Culinary Quest Amitabh Dewry, journalist, traveller and foodie reveals the untapped gastronomic treasures of Bangladesh. Rumana Fouzia Choudhury is all ears

The Gourmand Speaketh

Clockwise from this page Duck curry in Coconut milk gravy served with shioi pitha (Home made rice noodles). A coastal delicacy. Bhog, a veg platter, the complete combo meal of card, protein and fat Blessings from the rivers. Pabda, Pangash and Aair fish Salty vapa pitha served with Boal fish curry. An unique combination of Haor area. A tribal platter of hill tracts.

Quoting his mother’s maternal grandmother, Amitabh Dewry provides an ethnographic analysis of Bangladeshi cuisine. “The food we eat is an inheritance. It contains the history of our ancestors’ lifestyle and is proof of their culinary creativity when faced with monetary 82

limitations and provides a thorough insight into the topography of where they lived. These dishes often demand a variety of techniques and treatment, handed down from one generation to the next, distinguishing each regional cuisine from the other.”


Bengali Delicacies

He reminisces the pre-liberation days, when people in Faridpur and Gopalganj were unable to afford the now staple rice. “Back then, the stems of our national flower, the waterlily plant used to be cooked with small shrimps as a humble alternative to rice,” Dewry comments. Interestingly enough, in Faridpur and Gopalganj, coconut trees are not available—and yet, in Bagerhat, Khulna and Barisal, the same waterlily plant is cooked with slivers of coconut. He muses over how for Lakhi Puja and Guru Purnima, his aunt’s mother-in-law would transform the staple shuji (semolina) into Mohonbhog, a type of shuji halwa. “Spending hours cooking it in full cream milk in the faintest fire, the food we eat is bound by sweet memories of our mothers’ and grandmothers' affectionate cooking,” Dewry explains. Concerning our general disregard of following

cookbook recipes to the letter, Dewry answered that the lack of standardisation is a space of immense innovation. “Each of our mothers is a world-class chef, constantly innovating and hence the same dishes never feel monotonous. Marriages between two districts is also a factor bringing together two distinct flavours,” declares Dewry. Dewry talks passionately about the native tribal cuisine, which he says is unique because it faithfully champions the local produce without overwhelming it with spices and is marked by the distinct use of wild herbs and a variety of aromatic rice. Kebang, a common dish among several Hill Tracts tribes, is an example of how the integrity of the ingredients is maintained: meat or fish are stuffed into young green bamboo pipes and smoked over fire.

Photographs by Debashish Shom & Gayatree Arun, taken from the book 'Travels Thru Bangladesh', a Nymphea Publication

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Tunes

Nusrat Jahan Pritom goes on an expedition into the soulful land of folk music

In Search of Spirituality

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Photographs by Epon Shamsul

Before Rabindranath Tagore’s time, Bauls were not seen positively and were simply considered vagabonds. Tagore in his youth knew Lalon Fakir - one of the greatest Bauls and sages who translated wisdom into music

n Bangladesh, folk music occupies a special place in history. It is based in the very roots of our culture. People of Bangladesh and folk music have a powerful, almost unworldly, relationship. That connection is somewhat evident in the city and only gets more obvious when one moves away to the rustic countryside. Folk music however branches out into different subgenres; Baul, Lalon, Bhandari, Bhatiali, Jatra, Kavigan, Kirtan, Sari, Hason Raja, and Gambhira are some examples. Lalon is almost exclusively attributed to the spiritual writer and composer, Lalon Fakir of Kushtia. The Bauls are a spiritual sect of travelling minstrels who sing about life, love and nature. They are saffron clad musical/spiritual persons who are unscathed from the world of materialism. Bhatiali is generally sung by boatmen. Bhatiali music can be heard mostly in the riverside regions however it’s not limited to just that locale. Bhawayia is sung by coachmen especially in Rajshahi, Dinajpur, Rangpur and Pabna. Sari is sung in Sylhet and Mymensingh while Gambhira is often

heard in Rajshahi, usually sung by a grandfather and his grandson on a special topic. Baul is more or less found across the country but more so in the south western regions like Kushtia. Before Rabindranath Tagore’s time, Bauls were not seen positively and were simply considered vagabonds. Tagore in his youth knew Lalon Fakir one of the greatest Bauls and sages who translated wisdom into music. This led Tagore to highlight the work of Bauls and he included them in his songs and plays. In time, the clarity and meaning contained within this mystic music has travelled far and beyond, even crossing borders. To this day Baul music does not cease to impress and provoke curiousity. It is the perfect escape from the hustle and bustle of material life, the cage that is the concrete jungle of Dhaka. You can go to Kushtia and get mesmerised by the philosophies and visions of Baul singers. You can travel north for Bhawaiya or east for Bhatiali. There is so much musical tranquillity out there, captured in the waves and in the gentle breeze or swaying of leaves - one will miss out much if they do not explore.

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Traveller’s View

Out About In Bangladesh there are countless non-residents for work, travel or other ventures. In light of that, Rajesh Ramakrishnan, Managing Director of Perfetti Van Melle Bangladesh Ltd. shares his experience of exploring Bangladesh as a traveller and passionate photographer. Tawhidur Rashid comes back inspired

Panam Nagar, Sonargaon

Previously the Head of Marketing for Hindustan Times in Delhi, Rajesh moved to Dhaka back in March, 2014. “I have worked in India for twenty years, mostly in the Consumer Goods industry. I have spent several years with Reckitt Benckiser and Pepsico in marketing. ” shares the expat. When asked about his stay in Bangladesh, he mentions that apart from work, his passion for travel and photography acts as a driving force to learn more about the country. “Every weekend, I go somewhere to take photos. I think it’s a great 86

way to experience the culture and the local nuances,” articulates Rajesh. He further explains that to him travelling is not about visiting the tourist

political instabilities, he has had the privilege of pursuing his love for the road and his lenses. “Although movement was a little restricted due to the strikes, I

His creative visions got him his first solo photography exhibition in Dhaka at the National Museum. The theme was called Yogaspire which featured popular Yogi Anika Rabbani and musician and RJ, Samir Obaid spots; rather it’s about exploring and discovering things which are unique. He looks for places which are unconventional, even for the locals. To him, that’s the joy of travelling. Rajesh also reveals that despite

was still able to visit the Sundarbans in January this year. There were about twenty of us and we went on a three day cruise which was a fantastic experience. Going through the mangrove forests allowed me to


Expat traveller

capture some great shots of nature,” he exclaimed enthusiastically. He has also been to Cox’s Bazar, however, he wasn’t able to explore the place as much as he wanted to. According to Rajesh, work becomes play when duties require him to go out of town. “A month ago I visited Habiganj in Sylhet; I went to The Palace for work, and I took that opportunity to take some photos there as well. It’s a beautiful area with the tea gardens,” he adds.

His thirst for exploring the vast Bengal has also taken him to Chittagong and Bogra. When in Dhaka, Rajesh frequents Old Dhaka, at least once a month. “I went to the third floor of an old building in Shakhari Bazaar. In it, there was a small room which had pictures of Mother Teresa, Guru Govind Singh, Goddess Durga and Jesus Christ and at least pictures of six or seven other religions on the wall. It was interesting to see that the temple didn’t belong to any

“I think one shouldn’t click regular things. In order to standout as a photographer, one must spot the things that are uncommon”

specific deity or religion and the people were quietly sitting and praying.” As he went on to describe his accounts of Old Dhaka, he found that the place was quite festive during Janmashtami. “It was absolutely fascinating to see a predominantly Muslim country celebrating the occasion with such splendour,” he says, cheerfully. Rajesh also went shooting during Muharram, in front of the Shia mosques to capture their awe-inspiring beauty. Photography has taken him far out of his comfort zone in order to capture the rawness that is hidden in the depths of Bengal. He says, “Sonargaon is another place that is bursting with sights and sounds. There I visited Panam Nagar to shoot.” His creative visions got him his first solo photography exhibition in Dhaka at the National Museum. The theme was called Yogaspire which featured popular Yogi Anika Rabbani and musician and RJ, Samir Obaid. With them, he visited different locations around Dhaka, taking pictures of them doing yoga. The shots featured things like doing yoga on a rickshaw, in an abandoned building, as well as yoga on a boat while cruising the Buriganga River. “I combined these photographs together in order to emphasise the idea that yoga is something one can do anywhere; it’s something that is good for the body, mind and soul,” said Rajesh. Although he’s getting to know Bangladesh better, Rajesh believes there’s always something happening here and that’s why he enjoys his stay. “I think one shouldn’t click regular things. In order to standout as a photographer, one must spot the things that are uncommon. I think photography is a great way to de-stress, considering that most of us are neck deep in work. But when you’re shooting, you don’t let work or the other things get in your way. Last but not least, having a perspective is important. Because that enabled me to explore the world in special ways,” concludes the expat.

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Traveller’s Tales Samira Shakur converses with expatriates about their experiences around Bangladesh

Through the Eyes of the Outlanders Land of the rivers, Bangladesh is labelled as the ideally touristic country. Over the years, we may have seen the influx of many work bound westerners within the country, but perhaps anyone solely for the purpose of sightseeing. Conversely, there are a handful of expatriates who believe in the contrary – that there are more than just many ways to rediscover Bangladesh amid the adversities and myths.

Tim Steel

According to Tim Steel, Bangladesh has a rich history and heritage. Ranging from the ancient centre of trade, the Silk Road, the fascinating sultanate and the religious trends over the centuries, this could be the next big thing calling for diverse tourism. “Definitely worth the label of a hidden gem for the more socially aware, environmentally and culturally sensitive and above all for its rich heritage, cuisine and shopping – Bangladesh has it all in spades.” As a tourism expert, Tim believes the lack of suitable international accommodation, however, limits the scope of local tourism here. “Most hotels are distinctly business orientated in their presentation and services. It isn’t the poor roads that put visitors off; it’s the lack of good, comfortable, relaxing and safe accommodation.” Working extensively in the coastal regions of the country, Tim has much more to muse over than just the uninterrupted natural beach of Cox’s Bazaar. “Travelling south along Marine Drive, through the amazing Shaplapur with its huge fishing community, there are numerous points to access largely unspoiled natural coastlines, where one can indulge in to the real, unblemished nature of the country.”

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Photograph by Ashraf Uddin Apu

Managing Consultant, Cox’s Bazaar Surf Club

Hadrien Diez

Manager, Bengal Art Lounge Being stationed in Bangladesh for the last three years has taken the art connoisseur, Hadrien Diez, to various corners of the country, often to lesser known locales yet to be ventured by foreign tourists, “Apart from visiting the fairly accessible places such as Chittagong, the Sundarbans and Cox’s Bazaar – the most interesting find was a cottage Nishorgo in Srimangal enveloped amid the tea gardens where I would wake up to the chorus of birds – it was magical!” In terms of cuisine, Hadrien feels the country has much more to offer. “Bangladesh being equally a food enthusiastic country has numerous recipes that deserve to be known beyond the family kitchens.” As an art and travel enthusiast, Hadrien believes that while in the other predominantly touristic Asian countries the local people tend to have a preregistered mindset towards the tourists, which you do not see here – this makes a big difference when you can enjoy beauty at its raw form. “The historical remains of Bogra is an excellent pick for anyone who has an appetite for archaeology, while the organic vegetable farming in Cox’s Bazaar could be the answer for both self treat and tourism.”



Unearthed

Historically Sound

Photographs by Reema Islam

The Vast Bengal

Reema Islam uncovers the heritage sights within Bangladesh

An ancient seal was discovered in Mahastangarh site, written in Brahmi script. The seal proved to some, that Buddhism had indeed flourished in our deltaic land Before Current Era (BCE), a fact that has given rise to much debate. Yet, Pundravardana, or Mahastangarh as we know it, was a flourishing territory by the banks of the Karatoya River. By the time 90

Hiuen Tsang, the famous Chinese pilgrim arrived in 639-45 CE (current era), he did not mention meeting a king but wrote about 20 monasteries, 3000 monks and a vibrant atmosphere of Buddhist chants and learning. Trade routes right up to Sindh and Gujarat from present day Mahastangarh have also been mentioned in many texts. Hiuen Tsang travelled further down to Samatata or the Mainamoti ruins in Comilla and possibly passed Somapura Mahavihara or Paharpur, which is now a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Bangladesh housed two of the five most famous universities roughly between 5th-11th century CE: Somapaura Vihara or Paharpur in Naogaon and Jaggadala, which is still to be discovered. A thriving maritime


port is also thought to have been around since the 3rd century BCE, in Wari-Bateshwar, Narshingdi. An ongoing excavation has revealed the most interesting tunnels and structures built within the earth, leaving archaeologists perplexed while drawing history enthusiasts from all over! So whether you consider the flourishing universities in Mainamati and Jaggadala to the Mughals arriving and putting Dhaka in the limelight, our history is resplendent with diversity and a unique combination of religions, cultures and ethnic origins of the people. Sri Ballal Sen setting up the Dhakeshwari temple in the 12th century CE or the Baro Bhuiyans and the Rajas of Satkhira in the 16th century CE to the oldest, constantly inhabited Hindu street, Shakhari bazaar in Old Dhaka, Bangladesh too has its unique layers of a heritage we seem to have either forgotten or simply ignore. More ancient history comes to life as archaeologists toil to bring to light our lost ancestry. Bhitargarh in Panchagarh, Dinajpur is being excavated to reveal a 6th-7th century CE fortified city, where some village homes still have the ancient fort walls running along at parts. Situated at a junction between Assam, Koch Bihar and several other states, this area had a significant influence on the world of trade. Another site in Bochaganj, Dinajpur is also laying bare a temple from the 8th-9th century CE, which was possibly a Buddhist temple that was converted to a Hindu one. The famous Buddhist scholar Atish Dipankar hailed from Bikrampur, where these excavations are bringing us closer to

this eminent personality as well as other structures from his era, giving us a wider view of how people lived back then. A recent workshop organised by the UN World Tourism Organisation (UNWTO) and the Ministry of Tourism and Aviation called ‘Developing Sustainable Tourism based on Buddhist Heritage Culture and Pilgrimage Circuit’ has officially put Bangladesh on the map of countries with Buddhist heritage and the year 2016 is ‘Visit Bangladesh Year.’ With a heritage as rich and diverse as ours, it really is time we did something to preserve it. Our archaeology gives us a panoramic view of how different parts of Bangladesh functioned as autonomous kingdoms, forts or even ancient port cities, which together form a glorious web of ancient heritage that we seem to have done little to preserve. A visit to the museum, a family trip down to look at the archaeological ruins, visiting a village that still practices ancient rituals should be encouraged. There’s so much out there- let the journey to discovery begin. Let the Visit 2016 year also be a year where we cherish our heritage. 92


A Journey by Boat

Ashraful Haque takes his solar powered boat Surjokonna along the mystique Meghna and comes back enthralled

Photographs by Md Ashraful Haque

A Sojourn with Surjokonna

The river was calm. A thin layer of mist hovered over the water. There was enough light for the crew of the cargo boats around us to gear us up for the day’s journey. We needed to prepare as well. However, the location our tent was pitched being and we were swarmed with women of all ages; some being only teenagers. These women came in groups to partake in a ceremonial bath at the Meghna river’s ghat. We weren’t expecting this. My friend Masud was still inside the tent. Given the situation I couldn’t go back and neither could my friend come out. Finally when we got started, it 92

took us nearly two hours to get Surjokonna, the solar powered boat ready for the journey downstream. We packed our stuff, loaded the boat, wiped the solar panels and connected the batteries. The boat is a home-made fiberglass-built micro catamaran, 10 feet long and 7 feet wide. Between the hulls are solar panels that power the brushless direct current (BLDC) motor via a battery bank. Built in 2012, it was the first solar powered boat in the country to have made trips across a number of rivers. As we navigated through the heavy traffic of the Bhairab Meghna launch terminal, people looked at us with curiosity. The river was calm, the sky was clear and the sun was getting brighter. As we entered the Narsingdi district,

the river split in two directions. We took the one on the right, since the Dhaka-Sylhet highway wasn’t very far from it. If faced with any mechanical failures, we could easily pack our collapsible boat and get a ride back home. However, we weren’t expecting any trouble; the whole system underwent many tests over the past two years. All that was left now was to enjoy the scenery. The monsoons just ended, and the fishermen were busy collecting their catch. Cormorants, egrets and kingfishers seemed to want a share of that as well. As we rode the waves human activity decreased and biodiversity increased, which was a very welcoming experience. As the sun shifted to the west horizon, we began to look for a suitable place to


The river was as calm as it was yesterday. We saw more birds here. Eagles, kites, cormorants and what not. After breakfast, we even spotted a river dolphin!

camp for the night. We wanted a peaceful place, away from human habitats. We found the potential campsite near a sharp bend of the river. The site was covered in tall grass which acted as a make shift fence between the camp and the river. We didn’t want to be seen by many people as burglaries were commonplace. The tall grass would stop the cold winds as well. After we took a quick bath, we needed to cook something, but decided against it, for safety reasons. Dinner therefore was dry food under the starlit sky. We fell asleep and Masud woke me up in the middle of the night. Some men with flashlights were approaching our tent. A bit tensed, I stepped out. The leader had a sharp spear-like thing in his right hand. Someone saw us and reported at the nearby village of “suspicious activities.” So the villagers sent these fishermen to check us out. After a friendly banter we bade them goodbye and went to bed. We woke up very early next morning, packed our stuff and set sail again. We needed to find a bazaar to get some food into our bellies. The river was as calm as it was yesterday. We saw more birds here. Eagles, kites, cormorants and what not.

After breakfast, we even spotted a river dolphin! On the final night we were at Baliar Char in Narsingdi. Later, we camped at Moricha Kandi in Brahmanbaria. Like the previous night, we planned to camp at a remote place, but the farmers kept insisting that we stay near the village, as it was safer. Some of them even invited us to stay in their homes, but we declined politely and told them that we needed to be near our boat. Next morning we decided to go back. When we set out two days ago, we wanted to test Surjokonna while enjoying a ride totally free of transportation cost. Of course, we wished to go all the way to the confluence, but we weren’t ready for it. We needed more solar panels to generate more electricity in the late hours of the day, so the boat wouldn’t slow down. Security would also become an issue, as we hadn’t planned much towards it. Perhaps we can plan a better trip across the country next time. The writer is an environmental researcher and adventurer . He builds and design kayaks and solar powered boats.He can be reached at tanimashraf@live.com

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Compacked

Pocket-friendly

Vacations

Photographs by Kazi Ahnaf Aquib

Badruzzahan Ahmed reveals the secrets of executing travels to far-off lands on a budget

Money, distance, time and locations are all terms that are best expressed by numbers. But if all these really had to be analysed in numerical terms, the relation between the distances one travels and the amount of finances required to make that certain trip is far from directly proportional. The only constant in that equation would be our wanderlust. While this may sound like an impossible claim, and surely we all assume that travelling to exotic destinations come at exorbitant 94

prices, the reality of how far one could travel on a budget as compact as the backpack you carry will surprise you. Unless you are part of a dramatic Hollywood movie, where you run to the airport counter and ask for the next flight out, skipping the scenes, where you pay for the flight or find accommodation, travelling generally is a pre-planned and a well thought out process. This process becomes even more apparent if you are planning to travel on a budget.

There are no destinations that are free of cost, however a trip intelligently planned reduces the cost significantly. The first step is most certainly choosing the place you wish to visit. Once you have done that, gather as much information as you possibly can - thanks to Google, this is an easy task. Wikitravel is also an excellent site to begin your research, providing almost accurate, very objective and most importantly unbiased information about most destinations.


Travelling has little to do with money and everything to do with conviction. It is a matter of simply working towards making that trip a reality

The next step would be establishing a budget. In a nutshell, a trip essentially requires transport costs (to move around within the destination), accommodation, daily food allowances and entry fees for sites and monuments. This is exempt of shopping expenses as that is a very subjective matter. Calculating these costs are an absolute must. While you are wondering how you are to know these costs, most travel sites mention approximate budgets for each of these categories. When a website states “accommodation is cheap” use your own judgment to make that call because what may be cheap for others might strain your budget and therefore, trust only numbers. Once the budget has a number and you have a target it would be advised to not indulge in luxuries that you may survive without on a daily basis. The amount that you chose not to spend on that extra new phone, may pay for your accommodation in an exotic destination in a few months time. The itinerary for planning

ahead also gives you an advantage, when it comes to booking transportation such as flights, train tickets and accommodation. Early bookings are always cheaper as the prices offered are flat rates. The closer you get to your date of travel, the higher the prices will be. While it may come as a cultural shock to many, accommodation in travellers’ hostels are becoming increasingly common now. For those who are new to the concept, a hostel is a place where you can book a “bed” in a room that you will share with several others. And the prices for hostels are almost one-tenth or less generally of what you may pay for a hotel room. Washroom facilities are also shared, with most hostels providing lockers for the safe-keeping of their guests’ belongings. For those concerned about the gender issue while sharing a room, many hostels provide female or male only rooms to ease your stay. Hostels are wonderful places to meet fellow travellers from all over the world, especially entertaining for solo travellers. Hostelworld.com and Hostelbookers.com are the most prominent booking websites that includes review from guests about their stay. The real struggle starts now! Let’s say you have made it to your destination – Paris in this instance. The financial management tests have merely begun. Use the public transport, metro-rail and for a more enriching experience - walk. Sure you had set a

budget for food, but the cost of a single meal will burn a hole in your wallet? Fret not! To get a taste of Paris at a nominal price, you can always grab falafels from L’As du Fallafel, crepes from Au P’tit Grec or Kurdish sandwiches from Urfa Dürüm. Travelling has little to do with money and everything to do with conviction. It is a matter of simply working towards making that trip a reality. Maybe your stay won’t be at the luxurious Pavillon de la Reine and your meals won’t comprise of warm lobsters from Guy Savoy, but look around and you will see the joy this city of lights will bring to you.

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Fitness

Up in the Mountains

Mehrin Mubdi Chowdhury learns from experts on how to make mountain climbing more doable

M

Photographs by Mohiuddin Mahi

Acclimatise yourself Ascend at a slow pace. The deliberate sluggish walk will help the body adjust to the increasing altitudes.

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ohiuddin Mahi, a professional climber and an adventure enthusiast says anybody who wants to become a mountaineer (by hobby or profession) must be fit and healthy. “To stay in this profession I have to regularly follow an exercise regime. I meditate everyday to keep my mind calm and my workout regime includes a combination of stretching and cardio to keep my body fit.” Mahi also says, “Every month I pick a few dates and then try to walk 20 kilometres at a stretch and if somehow I miss out on the fitness regime I reschedule and delay my next trip to a mountain peak. This is because there’s no

cheating in the world of climbing or hiking. I must make sure that my body is completely fit before I make any sort of attempt to climb again.” Nur Mohammed, a senior Bangladeshi mountaineer shares, “Every season you must go to the mountains to acclamatise your body to the climate and the living conditions.” When asked how to deal with high altitude sickness he said, “The best way to deal with it is to learn the symptoms first. If anyone experiences or notices the said symptoms, an excellent way to remedy them is to make an immediate descent to lower altitude for more oxygen. Make sure you get enough oxygen before you plan to make an ascent again.” Mentioning an age-old aphorism, “Prevention is better than cure”, Mohammed emphasises on the efforts that need to be made to thwart the symptoms in the first place. “Ascend at a slow pace. The deliberate sluggish walk will help the body adjust to the increasing altitudes.” During that time of the month, any sort of adventure sports including mountain climbing may become quite a challenge. Dr. Syeda Husna Akhter, senior consultant of gynae and obs explains, “Medically it is possible to stop the periods for a few months but it is advised not to do so unless absolutely necessary. There are many methods like making adjustments to the monthly birth control pills, inject-able contraceptives, using self implantable contraceptive device, etc. My personal suggestion is to always try and plan the climb around the non-menstrual days. If for some reason that is not possible, please talk to your personal gynaecologists and select a suitable procedure to stop the menses for the required number days.”





Photo Story

People and

places

JRR Tolkien said, “Not all those who wander are lost.” Some wander because they have vowed to venture into the unknown. Food, culture, architecture are all variables of these excursions. However, the one constant in all of this is people. It’s the people that consolidate all these variables into making a journey worthwhile. Snapshots from places around the world. A photo story.

China 100


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India

South Africa 102


Morocco

China

Photo Courtesy China & Morocco by Saud Al Faisal India by Mashroor Nitol Dubai by Mishel Green South Africa by Debojit Saha

Dubai 103



The Food Safari

Shifting Mirage

of a Desert Oasis Aidha Cader travels across Iran and rediscovers its best kept secrets in the realm of landscape, art and culture, and cuisine Phtoghaphs by Zareef Cader

Iran is known to be an empire of poetry and perfume, flowers and pomegranates, art and architecture and of course cuisine. Food has always been the effective way of forging connections with people and cultures of other countries. Persian cuisine and food traditions are among the most sophisticated, elaborate and complex in the world. Though the Arabs did conquer the mighty Persian Empire in the 7th century, they were in turn conquered by the highly civilised and influential culture of the Persians. As we travelled along the ancient caravan route the complexity and diversity of its cuisine unravelled. Climate, geography, history and religion have all shaped its evolution.

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Dizi In a soup pot place three lamb shanks, eight cups of water and bring it to a boil. Add 1½tbsp turmeric, 1tsp cinnamon, three whole dried lemons, three chopped onions and one cup each of chickpeas and beans, (soaked overnight). Season it with salt and pepper, cover and cook for an hour. Heat 2tsp of oil in a skillet and sauté, 1-½tbsp tomato paste. Add it to the soup together with six chopped tomatoes and four sliced potatoes. Cover and continue cooking for another hour. Remove from the stove and place in a pre-heated oven at 160°c for more hours. Drain the soup onto a side dish. Remove bones and mash the meat into a puree. To serve, ladle the broth into a serving bowl and add the meat mixture over. Serve it with flat bread, pickles, yoghurt and fresh herbs.

Pitched for change Walking along Tehran’s busy sidewalks the contradictions are apparent. Anti US graffiti painted buildings are a sharp contrast to the overwhelmingly friendly locals who will close there shops and walk with you as a guide. Trendy cafes stand next to old fashion teahouses, European branded stores face the old bazaars, women with traditional cloaks walk alongside fashionistas. It is a

Fesenjan Pat dry and apply salt over 1kg of boneless, skinless chicken thighs and set aside. In a pan, heat a tbsp of butter with 2tbsp of olive oil and add the chicken.Cook until golden brown on all sides. Remove the chicken from the pan and set aside. Add another tbsp of butter and a tbsp of oil to the pan and saute two chopped onions until translucent. Return the chicken pieces to the pan with the onions and pour 2 cups of chicken stock. Bring it to a boil and simmer covered for 30 minutes. Stir in 2 cups of roasted and ground walnuts, 5tbsp pomegranate molasses, 2tbsp sugar, ½tsp of turmeric and ¼tsp each of cinnamon, ground nutmeg and black pepper. Cover and cook on very low heat for an hour, stirring every 20 minutes. city and a nation on opposing sides. We leave early the next morning for Mount Tochal, which is popular for skiing or hiking. The village Darband, located at 1700 meters is built onto sides of the mountain. The winding climb up the alleyway is dotted along with traditional restaurants and shops. It’s a picturesque backdrop, with rushing streams and dense spruce and cypress covered mountains topped off with snow peaks. At the restaurant


From TopLeft: Golestan Palace, Azadi Tower. Darband, Friday Mosque. Natanz

From top left: Golestan Palace, Darband, Friday mosque Natanz,Azadi Tower Bottom: Manouchehri House

Must see in Theran : Golestan Palace Azadi Tower The National Jewelry Treasury Reza Abbasi Museum Niavaran Palace Complex

we order the rose flavoured black cumin sherbet, followed by an array of kebabs. Kebabs are the staple meal across the country. Lamb minced or in chunks marinated with herbs and onion juice is grilled to perfection on hot coal. It is served with onions, grilled tomatoes, saffron infused rice, flat bread, green salad and a yoghurt drink. Our favourite was Kebab Koobideh, minced lamb mixed with herbs that simply melts in your mouth. At night we head to Azari Traditional Tea House for dinner. We sat on a Persian style daybed lined with carpets over cushions. The ceiling and floors were decorated, stained glass windows, gilded painted walls, carved wooden doors and colourful mosaic tiles takes you back to a time of Persian extravagance. The live music was so rhythmic that you can’t help but swoon to the beat and join the locals clapping and singing merrily.

Tea,with an array of sugar and candied sweets are served first. Followed by kebabs, Zereshk Polow, and Tabriz style meatball that is stuffed with a boiled egg and dried fruits. The following afternoon we stepped into a subterranean restaurant near the bazaar for lunch and ordered Dizi, a Persian stew, slow cooked for over 12 hours in a small heavy metal pot. This is a perfect restorative after a long tour of museums. Once the pot is served, the liquid is drained onto a side bowl and using a pestle we take turns to smash up the meat and beans to a pulp. Then eat it with flat bread, pickled vegetables and the broth. Next morning we head out of Teheran south to the city of Rey. Alexander the Great and the subsequent invaders the Arabs, Mongols and the Seljuk Turks all left their marks on this ancient city. The 12th century Toghrol Tower still calculates the time with precision. The Shah Abdol Azim Shrine is decorated with mirror work, has several courtyards, a golden cupola and tile minarets. Faced with all this, you can’t help but feel overwhelmed. We drive further south and reach the holy city of Qom. The shrine of Masoumeh, the sister of Imam Reza, is located here and is one of the most conservative cities in the country. Qom is famous for ‘Sohan,’ a confectionery made from flour, rose water, sugar, butter, saffron,

Kashan

Must see: Agha Bozorg Mosque Boroujerdi House Tabatabaei House Sultan Amir shrine and bath Fin Garden and Bath Kashan Bazaar and Timcheh-e Amin o Dowleh


From top left: Naqsh-e Jahan Square, Abyaneh lady, Kashan door, Fin Garden and Bath

Must see Isfahan: Naqsh-e Jahan Square Imam Mosque Sheikh Lotfollah Mosque Isfahan Bazaar Aali Qapu Palace

cardamoms and pistachio. Shops that line the courtyard are filled with traditional sweets and we pick up a tin or two. We reach Kashan by midday; it is an oasis town on the edge of Iran’s northern desert.

The oasis city Kashan was believed to be the city from where the three wise men followed the star to Bethlehem and witnessed the nativity of Jesus. The Seljuk’s in the 11th century built a fortress that still stands today. During the 16th century Safavid Shahs’used it as a vacation spot. Situated on the ancient caravan route it was also rich with wealthy merchants and had highly advanced public facilities such as gardens and bathhouses. We booked into the Manouchehri House, a nine-room boutique hotel that was originally a traditional merchant house, located in the oldest part of the town. The houses are hidden

away behind high walls at the end of narrow twisting alleyways and the simplicity of its exterior gives little clue to the delights within. All that is visible from the street are the massive wooden front doors, each with two different doorknockers, a heavy one for male visitors and a lighter one for women. Each has an octagonal vestibule where visitors are received and from there, separate passageways leads to public entertaining area or to private internal quarters where the family lives. Each house seems more beautiful than the other. With courtyards, reflection pools and wind tunnels that provide natural cooling, it is a sight to behold. The gardens host fig, orange, pomegranate, flowerbeds and Kashan’s famous roses. The following morning we set out further south to the small 13th century village of Abyaneh. This ancient fortress safeguarded the Zoroastrian lifestyle from modernity. Red mud-brick houses with wooden balconies and decorated doors along narrow alleyways. The folks are elderly and women wear rose printed scarves and floral dresses. The only mode of transport is by foot or a donkey. Back on the highway across the great Dasht-e-Kavir desert, we continue on to Iran’s most infamous city Natanz. We pass the heavily fortified underground nuclear plant only to stop a few

miles away at the magnificent Jameh Mosque. This mosque is one of the best preserved of all Ilkhanid-era buildings.


Faloodeh Shirazi

Beryani Boil a little more than 1kg lamb shoulder in 8 cups water. Add 2 sliced onions, 2tsp salt, 1tsp pepper and 2tsp turmeric. Reduce the heat, cover and cook for two hours. Once cooked, decant the broth, remove the lamb from the bones and grind it to a fine paste. Heat 3tbsp ghee and mix in the lamb paste. Add 1tbsp dried mint, 1tbsp cinnamon, ¼tsp saffron infused in 2tbsp rose water, together with one cup of broth. Cook until al the juices are absorbed and adjust seasoning.

Esfahannesf-e-jahan Located in the lush plain of the Zayanderud River, at the foothills of the Zagros mountain range this was the capital city of the Buyids, Seljuks and the Safavids. Massive building projects that epitomise Persian art and architecture flourished during Shah Abbas’s Safavid rule. The city is ordained by beautiful boulevards, gardens, covered bridges, palaces, tiled mosques and carved minarets that still fits the Persian proverb, “Isfahan is half of the world.” The Naqsh-e-Jahan Square is one of the largest city squares in the world and is recognised as a UNESCO as a World Heritage Site. There is nowhere more associated with refined glories of Persia than Isfahan. We stand on the impressive balcony of the Ali Qupa palace, high above the Maidan-e-Naqsh-e-Jahan

Mix a cup of sugar and a cup of water and bring it to boil. Remove from stove and set aside to cool. Once cooled mix ¼cup of rose water and place it in a freezer. Bring a pot of water to boil and add 100g of rice noodles. Remove from the stove and set aside for 10 minutes. Drain and rinse it in cold water. Crush the frozen ice and mix the noodles. Return it into the freezer. Add a splash of lime juice and flavoured red rose syrup before serving. gazing at the glittering tiled domes, portals, polo pitch, fountains, garden and the sprawling bazaar. The sheer grandeur and beauty of Imam mosque brought tears to my eyes. Their local classic is Beryani. No, it’s not ‘biryani’ as our guide explained, instead it is a dish made from pounded lamb topped with walnuts and caramelised onions and served with bread.We head out on the desert highway once again and on the way we see pigeon towers, wind catches, underground water cisterns, Safavid era icehouses, caravansary and the ancient Maybod citadel. However, the 8th century Jame Mosque of Nain is the most impressive landmark along the way.

Fire and sand Yazd is a desert city and the centre of Zoroastrian culture.


From top left: Imam Mosque, Sheikh Lotfollah Mosque, Chehel Sotoun, Zoroastrian Fire Temple

The adaptation to its desert surroundings makes this city architecturally very unique. Ancient homes, mosques and bazaars are built underground, accompanied by multiple wind catchers that keep it cool, even today. Like all other cities Yazd too has its share of delicacies. The camel meat stew is interesting and the beef curry was spicier than anything I had tasted in Iran. Walking in the bazaars you can’t help but notice the local population looks and feels very different to the other cities. They wrap themselves in a floral printed georgette sari and look more a mix of Indian and Arab than anything remotely Persian. As our guide explained that they are from Banda Abbas situated along the Persian Gulf coastline and lived in Yazd creating an interesting demographical mix. Our next leg was across the desert further southwest to Shiraz. Along the way we stopped and had tea with the Qashqai nomads who live off of goat herding, and weaving nomadic carpets. Their warmth was humbling. Soon, we drove off to

Pasargadae where sat the 4th century BC tomb of legendry Cyrus the Great. After a long journey across the desert we finally drove through the iconic Quran gate and arrived at the city of poetry, roses, nightingales and once famous wine by dusk.

City of Poets Early next morning we visit Persepolis the 4th century Achaemenid palace believed to be set ablaze by Alexander the great. Yet the marble columns and palace structure is still in good condition and gives you a glimpse into the ancient royal court culture. The cool breeze, lush greenery, flowing water, gardens filled with orange trees makes the city light and whimsical. Famous poets, the likes of Hafez, Saadi and many other chose Shiraz, as their home. The air is fragrant with the smell of orange blossoms and walking along the Narenjestan garden, Persian music is played overhead creating a mood of sublime bliss. The need to create heaven on earth embodies all forms of Islamic architecture in Iran. The char brag and the streams that flow through are modelled after Quranic interpretations of paradise. The stain glass windows that shown a ray of colour into the Nasir-al-Mulk Mosque are a sight once witnessed, will never leave you.

Must see Yazd: Walk around the Old Town House of Larry Tower of Silence


Top: Nasir al-Mulk Mosque Bottom: Persepolis

Tachin Season 3 chicken breast halves with salt and pepper. Heat 2tbsp oil in a skillet and add the chicken. Cook for 6 minutes per side, remove from heat, cut into bite-sized cubes and set aside. Add a tablespoon of oil to skillet and mix in 2 sliced onions, ½tsp salt, a pinch of turmeric and a few grinds of pepper. Cook, stirring occasionally, until onions turn golden brown. Mix with cubed chicken and set aside. Wash and drain 2 cups of basmati rice. Place the rice in a pan with water to cover by 2 inches and mix a teaspoon of salt. Bring to a boil, lower heat and cook, covered, for 7 minutes. Drain the excess water and rinse the cooked rice with cold water. Whisk 2 egg yolks, ¾cups yogurt, ¼tsp of crushed saffron, ½ teaspoon salt and a few grinds of pepper in a medium bowl. Add half the rice, mix thoroughly and set aside. Coat the bottom and sides of a casserole dish withbutter. Add the yoghurt and rice mixture; smooth it out into an even layer. Add chicken and onion mixture on top. Mix a teaspoon of olive oil and ½tsp of salt to the remaining plain rice and add to the top of the casserole. Press it down gently, cover and bake in preheated oven at 400°F for 50 minutes. once a light brown crust forms at the bottom, remove from oven and carefully flip it upside down onto a plate. Garnish with sauteed barberries or cranberries.

From soups called Ash where pulses, wheat and meat are cooked and ground to make a thick porridge, to beef brain soup or hand made noodle cooked in broth Shiraz has both the exotic and unconventional. However, the most popular item is ‘falooda.’ It is the ancient Persian who invented the concept of fruit or flower extract made into syrups and poured it over crushed ice, which they stored in icehouses. Traditional Iranian cuisine can be simplified as combination of fresh herbs and spices like saffron, merged with the sweet of pomegranate, barberry, cinnamon and topped off with a flourish of nuts, dried fruits and beans. Like the country, it is complex with layers of flavours that play harmony on your taste buds. Must see Shiraz: Persepolis Bishapur Nasir al-Mulk Mosque

Tomb of Hafez ArgeKarim Khan Pars Museum Qavam House


Game on

All is not lost

Bangladesh was defeated by Australia at the FIFA World Cup/Asia Cup Qualifiers . Nevertheless, Syed Faiaz Ahmed is still hopeful.

The biggest ever match in the history of Bangladesh football was when they hosted Asian Champion against one of the powerhouses of World Football, Australia, in their own backyard on 17th November, 2015. that dream could be transcended to many young men, and who knows, one day one of them can translate that into a reality despite the probability is infinitesimal and next to impossible now. Bangladesh received a 4-0 thrashing from Australia, but the consequences could have been more fatal if the resilient hosts didn’t protect their goalpost for the last 47 minutes as the Socceroos could not add any more after their 4th, the third one for their 35-year old striker Tim Cahill in the 43rd minute. Cahill, the most celebrated player of the rich Australian football was indomitable in the first half 112

despite the best efforts of the Bangladeshi players. However, the Bengal boys geared up in the second half and resisted Cahill and his illustrious team-mates, including their skipper Mile Jedinak, a star of English Premier League. Moreover, the home team met an unfortunate 5-0 defeat against Tajikistan a week ago after they conceded the same margin to the Socceroos in their ground a month and overcoming them was not an easy task. After the match Bangladesh’s coach, Fabio Lopez shares that one of the primary reasons his charges conceded those goals was because of the differences in height between the players of both teams. Despite which, he praised the boys for showing resilience and remarked on passing skills as sometimes they had seven-eight-nine completed

passes against the Socceroos in trot, which was indeed a satisfactory run for Bangladesh. Regardless of Bangladesh’s loss, this match paved the way for the team as a potential candidate for such matches. Players like skipper Mamunul, defender Nasir, brilliant midfielders Jamal Bhuiyan and Hemanta Vincent showed that football in Bangladesh has begun to rise from the ashes. The men put their best foot forward against the Aussies with the buoyant support of 20,000 that were present in the Bangabandhu stadium during the match. On an entirely different note, it can be said that nothing can revive football more than a jam-packed stadium. However, the sport could fare well on a national level, provided that there is more enthusiasm from the audience.



Events

Le Méridien Unlocks Dhaka with First Night Celebration November 16 was the First Night of Le Méridien Dhaka. Over 300 dignitaries from the political, business and art worlds gathered to experience the brand’s signature programs intertwined with local arts and culture. The Honourable Minister of Civil Aviation and Tourism of Bangladesh, Rashed Khan Menon, was the guest of honour. One of the evening’s highlights included a live performance by the nation’s popular folk band, Joler Gaan (Songs of the Water), known for their contemporary reinterpretation of Bangladeshi rural music. The hotel features the brand’s innovative lobby concept, which reflectthe creative spirit through styling elements inspired by coffeehouses, travel and culture. Guests will be enthralled by Le Méridien Arrival artwork, inspiring art installations featuring an achromatic wooden 114

masterpiece that reflects the aerial view of Dhaka City’s cross-section, encapsulating a time in history when the hotel was being constructed. Set to a soundtrack curated by French Bossa Nova band Nouvelle Vague, the Hub’s social seating and a curated library encourages interaction over illy coffee®, by day; by night, guests discover Sparkling, a modern twist on Europe’s celebrated aperitif hour. For compelling culinary experiences, guests have a choice of international and local flavours, including an all day dining restaurant, an Italian as well as a Mediterranean speciality restaurant The hotel’s lobby lounge has a casual coffee house ambience by day and has a vibrant social scene in the evening. The hotel’s spa features 6 therapy rooms and offers a variety of local and international therapies.


e d a c s a C s l i e v n u i Amar Lobby Lounge Amari Dhaka’s Cascade lobby lounge unveiled its all-new menu as the centrepiece of an exciting and unprecedented commitment to serving its guests with food items that are made fresh daily – by hand – from scratch, using a painstaking cooking process at a value that’s unmatched in casual dining. Cascade provides guests with that extra attention to create great tasting food that’s made fresh daily – by hand – from scratch and cooked using quality ingredients. Long-standing favourites are still on the menu, such as Caesar salad, sandwiches, wraps, paninis,

pasta and pizza. These popular dishes are joined by new dining options, including pan-seared sea bass and baked chicken breast stuffed with turkey bacon, mushrooms and herbs. On the counter is a selection of sweets – cakes, cupcakes and macaroons. Cascade’s new menu reflects the season, and treats fine local produce with respect. We hope it will be well received by local residents, who are always very welcome at Amari Dhaka, whether it’s for a three-course candlelit dinner or just a casual bite to eat.

An event to look forward to

Gem’s Gallery’s 14th Anniversary Gems Gallery announced its 14th anniversary on the month of victory. In light of the occasion the store will offer discounts from beginning of December to the very end. Gems Gallery is a popular name in Bangladesh among

jewellery stores. It has started its journey on December 11, 2001 and successfully instituted 22 outlets where four of them are located in different parts of the country such as Chittagong, Sylhet, Bogra as well as Dhaka.

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Etihad Airways wins ‘Nationalisati on Initiative of the year’ award Etihad Airways, the national airline of the United Arab Emirates, was named winner of the ‘Nationalisation Initiative of the Year’ award at the Middle East HR Excellence Awards 2015. The award was presented during a gala reception held in Dubai, attended by senior professionals from across the Middle East HR sector. The airline was also shortlisted in two other categories, including HR Team of the Year and Innovation in Executive & Leadership

Development. The Middle East HR Excellence Awards recognise the outstanding achievements of individuals, teams and organisations that have contributed to the development of the HR profession in the region. The awards showcase best practice in HR and talent management in the Middle East, and honour HR professionals in the public and private sectors for their contributions in creating a high-performing workforce.

Reckitt Benckiser products now on Kaymu.com.bd Bangladesh’s leading online shopping community Kaymu has joined hands with Reckitt Benckiser (RB), the FMCG giant from United Kingdom. Through this unique partnership, customers can now access the wide range of RB brands online on kaymu.com.bd and get it delivered home, free of any additional delivery cost. The agreement between the two parties was signed at the RB HQ in Gulshan 1. Raghu Krishnan Bangladesh and

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Sri Lanka Cluster, Managing Director of RB Bangladesh, Arif Zaman, Sales Director of RB Bangladesh, Mahbub Baset, Marketing Director of RB Bangladesh and Srilanka Cluster and Quazi Zulquarnain, Country Manager of Kaymu Bangladesh were present during the signing.



Back to the Basics

Instead of using the rather expensive data roaming, it is always cheaper to invest in a local SIM card with a data plan when travelling with your smartphone.

App Alert With over thousands of travel apps available, Rumana Fouzia Choudhury organises the best of apps for your next globetrotting venture Starting from finding the best deals when booking flights and hotels to recommending places to eat and sites to see, all the while keeping you up-to-date about the closest hospitals and ATMs, your favourite booking and travel sites have now created apps to transform your smartphone into a trusty tour guide.

Booking your flight and accomodation

While Expedia (iOS, Android, Windows) and Booking.com (iOS, Android) are go-to resources for booking flights, hotels and car services all at once, it is always best to research and compare deals. Include Kayak(iOS), Skyscanner (iOS, Android, Windows), and TripAdvisor (iOS, Android, Windows) when comparing prices for flights and hotel bookings. Also count in Hipmunk (iOS, Android) because it not only searches for the cheapest plane ticket but also looks for one that involves the least hassle in terms of layovers, plane changes, etc. Manag

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When looking for international flights, especially domestic flights within another country, the Huffington Post suggests an ingenious way to buy cheaper tickets: fake the ticket point-of-sale.

Choosing hotels is relatively simpler

The same rule applies for this as well. Compare hotel prices tags in Expedia, Booking.com, Priceline, TravelPony, and Agoda (especially for Southeast Asia). Always crosscheck with Tingo, a wonderful website launched by TripAdvisor, which will refund your cash if your hotel room price drops after you book it. If you wish to be informed about local people renting out rooms, apartments and homes to travellers, log onto Hipmunk, or better still, book free lodging with locals in Couchsurfing (iOS, Android).

Need help packing those suitcases?

PackPoint (iOS, Android, Blackberry) is here to the rescue: never forget your ___ again! PackPoint will create a list of the travel essentials that is custom fitted for you, based on the weather, location and the travel activities you plan.


Lost

Maps

Warning: Maps take up a lot of space. However, not getting lost is of paramount significance and Google Maps (iOS, Android) and Waze (iOS, Android) with updates on traffic, public transport, gas prices will also let you save time and money on the road. However, it is always good to have an offline map as a back-up, and Maps.Me (iOS, Android, Blackberry, Amazon.com) is an excellent choice. In fact, for more obscure, less-visited locations, Maps.Me is sometimes more accurate than Google Maps.

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Going about town

To transform your smartphone into the comprehensive and informatics tour guide, you must download Lonely Planet Country Guide apps which will keep you up-to-date about entry and exit formalities, health fees and policies, sites to see, transport and routes to pick and

recommend places of interest and activities to try out. In case there is not a Lonely Planet Guide app for your destination, pick a local country app and a combination of the following: Foodspotting, Foursquare, Gogobot, WAM (World Around Me) and Field Trip to keep you plugged-in to all the various places you might want to eat at or explore. If you are glazed over by far too many glossy reviews of hotels and restaurants, you can always rely on the brutally honest TripAdvisor reports.

First Aid Box

Its all about the dough

Use Oanda Currency converter app (iOS, Android, Blackberry, Windows) and Mint (iOS, Android) to easily access daily filtered currency rates and manage your travel budget. Good news for Windows Phone users is that the PinPin ATM Finder app will prove very useful when you find yourself in a shady part of town and no money to hire a taxi cab. Or you can just WAM it.

For emergency numbers and embassy contact details, the cautious traveller can download Travel Safe (iOS, Android) and ICE (In Case of Emergency) app ($3.99, Android) just in case you lose your passport or need to visit the doctor and relay details of any existing medical condition. Keep them handy and hopefully you will not need to use them. Happy travels!





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