Icelandair Stopover magazine - fall 2018 by Icelandair

Welcome Aboard I Fall 2018

ICELANDAIRSTOPOVER #MyStopover

Enjoy an Autumn Stopover in Iceland

SHINE A LIGHT

VISUAL FEAST

AUDIO DYNAMITE

24 types OF ICELANDIC beer

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W W W. K E FA I R P O R T. I S

#WHENINKEF

KEF airport is the busy place to be. You can choose between 24 different types of beer, leaf through hundreds of magazines, go for hot coffee (or cold), or even take a shower. Be fashionably early.

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LOOK INSIDE Letter From Icelandair

Iceland 101

What to Do This Fall

FALL 2018 I PUBLISHED BY ICELANDAIR

Recommended Reads

Icelandair Experience

Saga Shop Kitchen: Feeling Hungry?

Rise of Women’s Football

Icelandair on Instagram

Our Top Stopover Picks

Children’s Corner: Winter Adventure

Icelandair @Work: On the Ball

Route Map

Our Fleet

In-Flight Entertainment

Services On Board

Devices and Wi-Fi

Safety First

Customs Forms

Stunning South

Travel: Treats Out East

Iceland Airwaves: Happy 20 th!

Education Extraordinaire

#MyStopover: Portraying Iceland’s Football Spirit EDITOR: Eygló Svala Arnarsdóttir (editor@icelandair.is) COVER IMAGE: Benjamin Hardman COPY EDITOR: Sarah Dearne CONTRIBUTING WRITERS: Kate Armstrong, Eygló Svala Arnarsdóttir, Sigríður Ásta Árnadóttir, Carolyn Bain, Jess Dales, Sarah Dearne, Joseph Fox, Björn Halldórsson, Tina Jøhnk Christensen, Svava Jónsdóttir, Nanna H. Juelsbo, Will Larnach Jones, Brandon Presser, Lisa Gail Shannen CONTRIBUTING ILLUSTRATORS: KIDZinflight and Alfreð I. A. Pétursson

Icelandair’s Safe Travel Tips

Film: Of Wolf-Age and Vultures

Iceland Airwaves: Insider Tips

Music: Q&A With the Loftbrú Grant Winners

Exclusive With Iceland’s First Lady

Portraits for Sovereignty Centenary

Film: Star of Girl in the Spider’s Web

Destination: Watch Out for Washington DC

Destination: The Suburbs of Paris

Poignant Pride Parade

CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS: Hörður Ásbjörnsson, Páll Guðmundur Ásgeirsson, Carolyn Bain, Billi, Ingibjörg Birgisdóttir, Lilja Birgisdóttir, Sveinn Birkir Björnsson, Hafliði Breiðfjörð, Haley Clark, Jess Dales, Amelie Dupont, Matthew Eisman, Ted Eytan, Joseph Fox, Berglaug Petra Garðarsdóttir, Roman Gerasymenko, Friðþjófur Helgason, Morgan Hill-Murphy, Sigtryggur Ari Jóhannsson, Jacques Lebar, Viðar Logi, Ari Magg, Júnía Líf Maríuerla, Þorgeir Ólafsson, Rhombie Sandoval, Quin Schrock, Sarah Sergent, Íris Ann Sigurðardóttir, Saga Sigurðardóttir, Rúnar Sigurður Sigurjónsson, Spessi, Emma Svensson, Charl van Rooy ADVERTISING: icelandair.com/about/media/promotion

Correction: In the Summer 2018 issue of Icelandair Stopover magazine, in “Copenhagen’s Restaurant Baby Boom” on page 66, photos from restaurant Pony were featured but incorrectly captioned as being from Restaurant 108. We sincerely apologize for this error.

2 / Table of Contents

A design studio & retailer of carefully selected fashion brands & products from around the world.

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MEN: Skólavörðustígur 16. WOMEN: Skólavörðustígur 7 & Kringlan. HOME: Skólavörðustígur 12. GEYSIR: Hafnarstræti, Akureyri and Haukadalur. Geysir.com

LETTER FROM ICELANDAIR:

WISE IS THE ONE WHO TRAVELS Dear fellow traveler, I just returned from a fabulous city break to Lisbon—the Portuguese capital is just over an hour’s flight from Icelandair destination Madrid. While true to its origins, Lisbon is a vibrant multicultural city. In one of the restaurants I dined at, the server said she knew one word in Icelandic: heim. It sparked a conversation about travel and my ancestors’ worldview. Heima means “home” but heimur means “world.” Að fara heim means “going home,” while að fara út í heim means “going out into the world.” Heimskur (“stupid”), which is related to that same word, appears in the Old Norse proverb: Heimskur er heimakær—“the one who stays at home lacks wisdom.” Wise is the one who gets to know new places and cultures and learns something new about him or herself in the process. With Icelandair Stopover we want to do just that, encourage you to learn more about Iceland and inspire future travels.

Icelandair is a proud sponsor of the arts. Two decades ago the airline took part in founding a music festival, held in an airplane hangar at Reykjavík Airport in 1999. Celebrating its 20th edition November 7–10 this year, Iceland Airwaves festival continues to shine a light on new talent, and Icelandair remains a proud sponsor. Check out an insider’s guide to Airwaves 2018 on page 28 and the greatest hits of the past 20 years on page 30. On pages 32–34 are interviews with the recipients of the 2018 Icelandair Loftbrú awards, which helps them travel to gigs overseas.

Eygló Svala Arnarsdóttir Editor

With Icelandair Stopover we want to encourage you to learn more about Iceland and inspire future travels.

This year, we also celebrate the centenary of Iceland’s sovereignty (see page 44). On page 36, First Lady of Iceland Eliza Reid discusses her role, love for literature and not going by the book. On page 24, we have a chat with Icelandic filmmaker Börkur Sigurþórsson about his first feature, film noir Vargur (Vultures), and on page 50, actor Sverrir Guðnason talks about his part as investigative journalist Mikael Blomkvist in the upcoming Girl in the Spider’s Web, the new Millennium thriller. In the #MyStopover section of this issue on page 54, photographer Joseph Fox captures the atmosphere during Iceland’s World Cup football games in June. On page 58, we reflect on the rise of women’s football. East Iceland’s stunning Lagarfljót area is featured on page 20, while on page 40, a special art school in the East Fjords is covered. Also check out our event calendar on page 10 and a selection of exciting activities on page 66. Children will enjoy our winter adventure story on page 68, and young and old a hunt for Iceland’s 13 Yule Lads who have hidden all over this magazine. But before the holiday season arrives with its bells and jingles, remember to make the most of fall. On pages 62 and 64, we hope to inspire delightful autumn breaks in two classic cities. Wise is the one who travels. We wish you góða ferð! Have a nice trip!

MAX-ING THE ICELANDAIR EXPERIENCE This year, Icelandair welcomed to its fleet the first three of its brandnew Boeing 737 MAX planes. The aircraft were designed with passenger comfort in mind and to enhance the experience of flying, for example, with comfortable LED lighting, less noise pollution, more space and better views from the windows. Great emphasis was placed on fuel efficiency; fuel savings are up to 20% per seat compared to other narrow-body airplanes. The MAX 8 and 9 have larger, more efficient engines than previous models and enhancements to the airframe to help reduce aerodynamic drag. The operating cost is 8% lower per seat than comparable aircraft. The MAXs are, in fact, the most cost-efficient single-aisle aircraft on the market. They also have a greater flight range than previous 737 models and will help to increase Icelandair’s flexibility and efficiency.

The MAX 8 has seating for 160 passengers, while the longer MAX 9 seats 178. All aircraft will be fitted with all the comforts Icelandair passengers have come to expect, including in-flight entertainment systems, gate-to-gate Wi-Fi access, and plenty of legroom.

ABOUT ICELANDIC LETTERS

vowel different. We also have an additional three letters: Æ (sometimes written as “ae”) is pronounced like the “i” in tide. Ð (sometimes written as “d”) is pronounced like the “th” in

4 / Editorial

The articles in this magazine use Icelandic letters and accents. In Icelandic, you can use accents on all the vowels: á, é, í, ó, ö, ú, ý. Each accent makes the pronunciation of the

The remaining 13 aircraft ordered will arrive by 2021. Read more about our fleet on pages 75–76 and online: icelandair.com/about/our-fleet. there. Þ (sometimes written as “th”) is pronounced like the “th” in think. Kærar þakkir fyrir að lesa blaðið! I Thank you for reading!

Þingvellir National Park

Gullfoss Geysir

Reykjavík Kerið

BREAKFAST, BRUNCH, LUNCH, DINNER

Hveragerði

Þrastalundur

Your journey to the Golden Circle starts at Þrastalundur

Great place to see the northern lights!

Lovely Restaurant with a Stunning View! We stopped @ Thrastalundur on our way to Geysir (40 min away). Everything about this place was just magical the food, the coffee, the view and the team. Highly recommend for anyone who wants to rest in a very picturesque scenery and enjoy truly Icelandic hospitality! – Aga J. – Tripadvisor.

/thrastalundur /thrastalundurr Tel.: +354 779 6500

Food was so good, we came back twice! We really enjoyed eating at Þrastalundur Restaurant. We tried the lamb soup, fresh brook trout, and leg of lamb. It was a Sunday, and they had a lovely two-piece band playing. The staff really made us feel at home, and gave us some travel suggestions for the Golden Circle. We enjoyed it so much, we came back the next night for pizza, soup, and beer. – Kim H. – Tripadvisor. More than outstanding pizza Lovely restaurant situated in very seenic spot on a river bank. In summer one can see people fly fishing. The service was very good. Food was good and the atmosphere good. Will definately go there a.s.a.p. Old but renovated in good taste. Brunch yummie. Thank you. I loved it – Sigga_Hallgr. – Tripadvisor.

SINCE 1928

ICELAND 101 Welcome to Iceland! Looking for the basics on Iceland before your Icelandair Stopover? Here are a few essentials about our North Atlantic paradise. GRÍMSEY

SUÐUREYRI ÍSAFJÖRÐUR DALVÍK

FLATEY

REYÐARFJÖRÐUR

THIS IS HIGHWAY 1

ARNARSTAPI

We call it the Ring Road because, as you can see, it is shaped like a ring around the whole island. Many people like to follow this route when they want to see a lot of the country, but don’t forget to venture off on other roads so you can explore areas like the Westfjords, Snæfellsnes Peninsula and Reykjanes. The national language is Icelandic, and while you’ll have no problem getting by using English, we’re grateful anytime a visitor tries to use góðan daginn “good day” or takk “thank you.” You are going to land at Keflavík Airport. When you first step outside, take a deep breath and inhale our wonderful clean air. Welcome to the North Atlantic. Thanks to the Gulf Stream, winter temperatures are milder here than you’ll find in New York or Toronto. When the thermometer creeps above 68°F (20°C) in summer, Icelanders bask in the sun at cafés and beaches. You probably already know that Iceland is a volcanic land. We also have many glaciers and countless other natural wonders. Remember to stay safe on your travels and check out safetravel.is before you go. There’s no need to buy bottled water when you’re here. What comes out of the tap is pure, clean, tasty—and free. You may notice the hot water has a slightly sulfurous smell, 6 / Icelandair Stopover

HOFSJÖKULL LANGJÖKULL

VATNAJÖKULL

AKRANES

REYKJAVÍK REYKJANESBÆR

HEKLA

VESTMANNAEYJAR

but it’s plentiful; we even use it to heat our homes! It does not get as cold in winter as you might think, but nevertheless our weather can be quite unpredictable. Bring lots of clothes to wear in layers—even in summer— and a good quality windproof jacket. Most importantly, don’t forget your bathing suit! Visiting our thermal pools is a highlight of most trips (though you can always rent a suit if you forgot yours). There aren’t a lot of trees in Iceland. It can be windy here. Remember to hold your car door when you open it. Trust us; your rental company will thank you. Electricity in Iceland is 220 volts, the same as in Europe. If you bring electronics from the US or Canada, you’ll need an adapter for both plugs and current. Iceland is a wired society, and you’ll find Internet hotspots almost everywhere. Many of you will be visiting our country to enjoy our unique nature, of which we are very proud. Please remember, though, that

Iceland’s delicate landscapes can take decades, or even centuries, to recover from misuse. Please don’t collect stones, tread on or pick up sensitive moss, or drive off road— even in what may appear to be barren, sandy territory. Speaking of our landscapes, you’ll notice that there aren’t many signs, fences or other barriers around our natural wonders. We trust your common sense. So when you see or hear a warning, please heed it: Do not step over ropes that are blocking an area. Hot springs can be dangerously hot. Rocks near waterfalls can be slippery. And the sea can be deceptively calm. Follow local advice. The name of Iceland’s capital, Reykjavík, means “smoky bay.” About two-thirds of our population of 350,000 live in the Capital Region. Photographers love Iceland for its incredible, ever-changing light. It never gets fully dark between about mid-May and early August, while in December a muted light shines over the island for a few short hours each day.

Explore the countryside in a snow-powered car In Iceland, all electricity is generated from renewable sources; falling water, the heat of the earth and the force of the wind. Welcome to the land of renewable energy. landsvirkjun.com/visitus

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Floating in the Blue Lagoon.

Svartifoss waterfall in Skaftafell, Vatnajรถkull National Park.

The author at Ljรณtipollur crater lake in Fjallabak Nature Reserve.

Stokksnes peninsula in the southeast.

The Ring Road by Skaftafell.

Gljúfrabúi waterfall.

VISUAL FEAST We picked up our camper van and headed to the Highlands, home to Iceland’s infamous “F-Roads” and the whimsical landscapes of Landmannalaugar and Kerlingarfjöll. While the F-Roads weren’t nearly as bad as expected, the Highlands were everything they promised to be: Remote, out of this world and unlike anything we had seen. After spending two days hiking through the Highlands, Quin and I headed south. It didn’t take us long to understand why Iceland’s southern coast is so popular. From crashing waterfalls to towering mountains and glowing icebergs, it’s a visual feast. We took full advantage of the midnight sun, shooting well into each night before heading to one of the local campgrounds and waking up to do it all over again. Despite the long days, our time on the southern coast flew by and, before we knew it, we were due back in Reykjavík. An excerpt from Jess Dales’s blog post at blog.alaskaair.com.

BY JESS DALES. PHOTOS BY JESS DALES (INSTAGRAM.COM/ JESS.WANDERING) AND QUIN SCHROCK (INSTAGRAM.COM/ EVERCHANGINGHORIZON). An abandoned farm on the south coast.

BY SARAH DEARNE.

HERE

Mývatn n

THERE

Rif n

Here’s what’s happening on the hippest island in the North Atlantic this autumn. REYKJAVÍK

OCTOBER 9

Imagine Peace Tower Lighting Every year on John Lennon’s birthday, October 9, visitors travel to Viðey island to join the Imagine Peace Tower lighting ceremony. The tower is a light installation created by Yoko Ono in remembrance of her husband and their shared message of peace. It shines a symbolic beacon of light into the Reykjavík night sky until December 8, the anniversary of Lennon’s death. You can take the fiveminute ferry to Viðey from Skarfabakki pier, a short distance from downtown Reykjavík. imaginepeacetower.com

RIF

OCTOBER 26–28

Northern Wave Film Festival Head to Snæfellnes for Northern Wave, a little gem of a film festival held in the tiny fishing village of Rif. The festival showcases short films influenced by the French New Wave genre, and also includes workshops and the popular annual fish banquet, where local foodies compete for the title of best fish course. Northern Wave is held at the Freezer Hostel, a retro-trendy converted fish factory that now serves as the region’s cultural center. northernwavefestival.com

Photo by Rúnar Sigurður Sigurjónsson.

REYKJAVÍK

NOVEMBER 7–10

Iceland Airwaves Celebrating its 20th anniversary this year, Iceland Airwaves is Iceland’s biggest and most popular music festival. This year’s lineup includes big names such as Hayley Kiyoko, Ólafur Arnalds and Eivør, alongside a slew of up-and-coming talent. Happily, this year’s festival will feature at least 50% female artists. Get the full scoop on pages 28–30. icelandairwaves.is 10 / Events

Reykjavík n Hafnarfjörður n

REYKJAVÍK

MÝVATN REGION

cute wooden stalls selling all kinds of handmade goodies. Although the market itself is decidedly small-town in scale, the Christmas ambience is on point, with twinkling fairy lights, live music, and guest appearances by the Yule Lads. Hafnarfjörður is also well worth exploring, so grab some hot cocoa before you go and take a wander around the town. visithafnarfjordur.is

DECEMBER 8

Advent Festival: Yule Lad Party, Bath and Christmas Market When you think of Christmas traditions, bathing with trolls may not be the first thing that springs to mind. This is Iceland though. We have not one but 13 “Santas,” better known as Yule Lads, mischievous troll brothers who bring gifts to well-behaved children. These slightly unseemly characters have their annual wash at the Mývatn Nature Baths, where guests can join them for a relaxing geothermal soak, which takes place alongside a Christmas market on the premises. You can also visit them at their home in nearby Dimmuborgir for a Christmas party, which takes place earlier the same day. Don’t be too disappointed if you can’t make it on the 8th though; the Yule Lads greet guests at Dimmuborgir daily from December 1 to 24. (The Yule Lads have also hidden in this magazine. Can you find them all?) visitmyvatn.is

NOVEMBER 22–26

Crafts and Design Fair Living on a desolate rock in the middle of the Atlantic tends to bring out a nation’s resourcefulness, and Iceland has it in spades. You can see this creativity in full swing at the Reykjavík Crafts and Design Fair, where makers from around the country gather to show and sell their creations. Keep an eye out for inventive materials such as fish leather, Icelandic wool, sheep’s horns and lava stones. This is a prime opportunity to bag some holiday gifts or a special keepsake of your trip. handverkoghonnun.is/en

HAFNAR- FJÖRÐUR

NOVEMBER 30 TO DECEMBER 23

(Opens on a Friday, then weekends only)

Christmas Village Get into the seasonal spirit at the Hafnarfjörður Christmas Village, just a 15-minute bus ride from Reykjavík. Here you’ll find

ICELAND

DECEMBER 31

New Year’s Eve Icelandic New Year is a winning combination of delicious food, family togetherness, and the joy of blowing things up. To celebrate like a local, start your evening with a special meal, then around 8:30 pm it’s time to take a stroll down to the nearest bonfire (you’ll find them in most towns around the country). As the evening progresses, you’ll hear the gleeful bangs of fireworks as kids get impatient for midnight. Then when the clocks strikes 12, it’s on: 600 tons of fireworks are unleashed, blanketing skies in a frenzy of light and color. Gleðilegt nýtt ár! Happy New Year!

NO NEED TO WAIT FOR YOUR BAGS if you do what the locals do and pick up some duty free goods in the arrival store before your luggage www.dutyfree.is

THE DUTY FREE ALLOWANCE IS 6 UNITS OF ALCOHOL, ANY WAY YOU LIKE IT Use the duty free allowance calculator on our website, www.dutyfree.is, to determine how to make the best use of your allowance.

FALL FAVORITES

As the autumn leaves begin to wither and fall, Björn Halldórsson helps you welcome the turning of the seasons with a fresh selection of books.

AUDIO BOOK

NARRATOR

HERE IS ICELAND!

CODEX 1962

BY BRAGI ÓLAFSSON

BY MARGRÉT TRYGGVADÓTTIR AND LINDA ÓLAFSDÓTTIR

BY SJÓN

Despite outwardly having the appearance of a children’s book, Here is Iceland! provides a surprisingly filled-in picture of Icelandic life and nature. In a wonderfully eclectic manner, the authors have pulled in factoids and information from a whole range of Icelandic topics, from geography, geology, plant and animal life, to culture, history and folklore. Parents who purchase this colorful paperback to keep their children occupied during lengthy trips on the Ring Road are more than likely to be amazed by the breadth of knowledge sprouting from their offspring in the backseat. With concise yet communicative texts and deeply engrossing and lovingly-crafted watercolor illustrations, kids are sure to have to share their copy once parents have given up on their own more stolid and monochrome travel guides.

Brought together in a single volume for its first publication in English, CoDex 1962 contains Icelandic writer and poet Sjón’s magnum opus, a trilogy of novels 25 years in the making. In these three texts, Josef Löwe—narrator, golem and fictional construct—recounts his entire life and more, reaching back to the chance meeting of his father and mother in WWIIera Germany and their shaping of his child’s body out of clay. Throughout, his tale twists and turns to pull in all manners of stories—great mythologies, as well as minor incidents. The three novels form a triptych of romance, mystery and science fiction, pulling in references from the annals of folklore, theology, literature and science, as well as pulps, comics, films and music. Together, the trilogy stands as testament to Sjón’s idea of the novel as the ultimate mode of storytelling, a Legion-like construct that can contain within itself all other forms of writing.

The universe of Bragi Ólafsson’s fiction is an unstable one, where characters traipse from one book to another, seemingly by their own stubborn insistence. His protagonists often seem to be at risk of being swept into the realms of the absurd due to their inaction and conflict-avoidance, but still they press on, unable to alter course or affect their situation. In this latest English translation of his work, a casual glance at the post office leads G—the titular narrator—down a path of obsession. He decides on the spur of the moment to follow and observe another man—a former rival in love whom he once wished would disappear from existence. As the two make their way through Reykjavík, G observes his nemesis’s dayto-day existence, gradually coming face to face with the disappointments of his own unresolved story. What follows is an introspective look at regret and the stories we choose to frame our lives with.

REPLY TO A LETTER FROM HELGA BY BERGSVEINN BIRGISSON

Bjarni Gíslason—the narrator of this slim epistolary novel—is a man out of time. History, folklore and nature are all woven together in his visions of the beloved countryside where he has lived his whole life, tending to the farm of his forefathers. In the twilight of his life, the aged farmer—alone and widowed— sits down to finally answer the letter from his former lover that has haunted him these many years. To do so, he must face the decision he made that sealed forever their brief time together, a time that shines in his memory with a clarity that dulls all else. In his recollections of their illicit love affair, his deeply sensual language is steeped in nature and gradually their love becomes one with the land it grew in. As his narration carries him closer to the life that he chose to forgo, he must do his best to rationalize his decision to himself as well as the ghosts of his past.

Check out which audio books are available on page 78 and on our in-flight entertainment system.

12 / Books

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LET IT SHINE The first edition of Reykjavík Pride was held in 1999 with only a few hundred people in attendance. Twenty years on, the event has become the glittering queen of festivals in Iceland, attracting over 100,000 people to the city, with many special guests and visitors from around the world joining the party. Celebrating diversity and fighting for universal human rights has become such a momentous and joyful experience that the event now boasts an extended six-day program featuring concerts, exhibitions, art shows, tours, talks on important issues and scores of other activities.

The highlight and culminating spectacle is the Pride Parade, which sees a lively procession of colorful folks all dressed up in costumes, dancing, singing, and launching swirling clouds of fluttering paper into the crowds from confetti guns. The icing on the Pride cake, though, is often provided by Iceland’s much-loved pop star, Páll Óskar, who has delighted the crowds over the years with his elaborate float designs. This year, he dazzled onlookers with a spectacular performance on top of a giant, glittering, rubyred slipper. Reykjavík Pride takes place annually in the second week of August.

BY LISA GAIL SHANNEN. PHOTO BY ROMAN GERASYMENKO.

14 / Reykjavík Pride

Icelandair Stopover / 15

SAFE TRAVELS – IN THE AIR AND ON THE GROUND Icelandair’s new safety video doesn’t only teach you about safety while flying, but also while traveling in Iceland. So, you’ve arrived in Iceland. You’re driving your rental car in scenic surroundings: On your left are tall, rugged mountains, covered by a pristine white glacier; and on your right, the wide expanse of the Atlantic Ocean, wild waves crashing against a black-sand beach. Suddenly, the road narrows towards a one-lane bridge. A car approaches from the other side. What do you do? Your safety is Icelandair’s priority, not only while flying between destinations but also after arriving in Iceland. With the recent tourism boom, the environment and infrastructure have come under more strain. Therefore, Icelandair has joined forces with emergency services and other tourism companies in an effort to inform travelers of safety hazards on Icelandic roads and outside in nature. Driving in Iceland Always slow down before reaching a onelane bridge; there will be a sign letting you know that it’s coming up. The rule is this: The car further away from the bridge is supposed to stop and let the other driver cross first. While driving in Iceland, not only will you encounter one-lane bridges, but in some places also one-lane roads and even one-lane tunnels. There will be many amazing photo opportunities, but never stop in the middle of the road to take pictures; pull over at the next safe parking space. Driving conditions in Iceland are unusual for many reasons. For example, a paved road can quickly change to a gravel road. In summer, there may be sheep on the road, and in winter, reindeer in the East. During most seasons, especially on mountain passes, roads can quickly become slippery. The weather can change in the blink of an eye: Watch out for storm 16 / Icelandair

BY EYGLÓ SVALA ARNARSDÓTTIR.

and blizzard warnings at gas stations and on safetravel.is, where you’ll also find tutorials on driving in Iceland. Out in the Wild Icelandic nature is breathtakingly beautiful but also delicate. Never drive off road, or cycle or walk outside marked paths. It takes the vegetation decades or even centuries to recover. If you’re traveling with a camper or have brought a tent, make use of the many designated camping grounds all around the country. You’ll find them in both frequented and desolate areas, on beaches, in the mountains and next to waterfalls. When hiking, register your route on safetravel.is. Taking a walk on the beach, listening to the surf is a tranquil experience, but better keep a safe distance from the shore and always face the water because of the risk of rogue waves, especially on the south coast. Iceland is famous for its geothermal energy and many hot springs, but some of them are boiling hot. Don’t move too close, and if there’s a barrier—even just a lowhanging rope—it’s there for a reason. The same applies when you’re admiring a waterfall; the edges of the cliffs around it can be slippery from the spray. To sum up: Eagerness to explore is great, but common sense should always come first—and remember to respect signs and barriers. We love it that you’re visiting our country. We hope that you’ll enjoy your stay and return home safely with wonderful stories to share. Take nothing but photos, and leave nothing behind in our precious nature. Pay attention to Icelandair’s safety video, which is played before takeoff. If you’d like to watch it again, find it on the in-flight entertainment system.

Icelandair Stopover / 17

Reykjavík´s Thermal Pools

A source of health Thermal swim ming pools

Hot t ubs and jacuzzi

Saunas, steambat hs

The place to meet locals

Thermal pools and baths in Reykjavik are a source of health, relaxation and pureness.

Tel: +354 411 5000

All of the city´s swimming pools have several hot tubs with temperatures ranging from

www.spacity.is

37˚ to 42˚C (98˚–111˚F). The pools are kept at an average temperature of 29˚ C (84˚ F)

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LAGARFLJÃ&#x201C;T: LAKESIDE LIFE IN EAST ICELAND On the hunt for mythical beasts and memorable treats out East. BY CAROLYN BAIN.

20 / Travel

I am on reasonably good terms with Icelandic wildlife. I’ve been on successful whale-watching cruises, patted orphaned Arctic foxes, and sat with puffins under the midnight sun. I’ve dodged my fair share of dive-bombing birds (sizable skuas and territorial terns) and taken a few horseback rides on beaches (I’ve even multitasked by dodging skuas while on horseback). I’ve stopped for sheep devoid of road sense, been excited by roaming reindeer on eastern hillsides, admired basking seals. And yet… one Icelandic creature has evaded me. The confounded Lagarfljótsormur remains elusive, despite me spending many days scouring its murky lake home for signs of life. According to Icelandic folklore, the Lagarfljótsormur, or “Lagarfljót Worm,” is a lake monster living Loch Ness Monster style in a freshwater, glacial-fed lake in East Iceland. The 19-sq-mi (50-km2) lake where the Worm resides is called Lagarfljót, and it stretches southwest of the town of Egilsstaðir. And just like Nessie, there have been countless sightings of the Worm. Don’t believe me? Check out a grainy YouTube clip from 2012 that purports to show a long, lean snake-like creature moving through the water. (YouTube hits of said clip now number 5.3 million.) Worm curiosity is a fine excuse to head east for a weekend, but I’m happy to report that the Lagarfljót area (known as Fljótsdalur, “river valley”) has plenty more reasons to visit. In the spirit of intrepid exploration and wildlife stalking, I’ve put together a “choose your own adventure”

guide to get you acquainted with the home turf of the wondrous Worm.

1 Scouting for the lake monster. Photo by Páll Guðmundur Ásgeirsson. 2 Litlanesfoss, en route to Hengifoss. Photos 2–5 by Carolyn Bain. 3 Coffee space at Vallanes. 4 Rustic room at the Wilderness Center. 5 Striking exterior of Skriðuklaustur. 6 Dormitory room at the Wilderness Center. Photo by Rhombie Sandoval.

Natural Features: Waterfall or Forest? For monster-spotters in need of a legstretch, there are two excellent lakeside attractions. At 420 ft (128 m), Hengifoss is one of Iceland’s highest waterfalls, a cascading beauty that reveals itself after a scenic uphill walk. En route, lake views and a smaller waterfall (Litlanesfoss, surrounded by vertical basalt columns) provide photogenic fodder, before the trail levels out and approaches the gorge where Hengifoss nestles. Here, the fabulous striped effect is in fact layers of red clay sandwiched between layers of basalt. You need about two hours to complete the round-trip walk to Hengifoss from the car park on Route 933. Back down to earth and on the opposite side of the lake is Hallormsstaðaskógur, Iceland’s largest forest at a generous 740 hectares. After following a few paths through the birch woods, I begin to wonder about the genesis of the widespread myth of Iceland being a country without trees. A stand of larch trees has specimens over 66 ft (20 m) in height, while the arboretum is home to 70 tree species gathered from around the world. If you’re fond of foraging, in fall the forest delivers a bounty of mushrooms and berries. Meal Appeal: Organic Vegetarian or Sweet-Treat Buffet? Monster-hunting can build up an appetite. Happily, the Lagarfljót area has some unique spots for quality refueling. A visit to Vallanes further debunks myths about what Icelandair Stopover / 21

can be grown in Iceland: It’s an organic farm growing grain (primarily barley), herbs and vegetables, selling them around the country under the Móðir Jörð (“Mother Earth”) brand. The café inside the stylishly rustic Aspen House serves a wholesome vegetarian lunch buffet starring soup, salads, sourdough bread, and fermented vegetables. Aspen House and its furniture are made from aspen trees planted on the farm in 1986; after lunch I take my coffee to sit among the herbs growing in an equally lovely outhouse. I’m not normally one to recommend two buffet meals in one day, but there is a second destination that should sound a siren to food fans exploring the area. At the head-turning Skriðuklaustur cultural center (home to monastic ruins, a literary museum, and a gallery), sweet Klausturkaffi has a well-deserved reputation for showcasing East Iceland’s larder. Here it’s all about homestyle cooking and accommodating appetites. I’m partial to the lunchtime spread (seafood soup, reindeer pie, curried lamb) but it’s the afternoon cake buffet that has stolen my heart. All that Fljótsdalur

fresh air makes homebaked treats go down extra well: Rhubarb pie, waffles, blueberry ice cream, skyr cake. I’ll work it off, I reason, with another hike… Highland Haunts: Peak Pursuits or Hot-Pot Lazing From Lagarfljót’s western shore, close to Skriðuklaustur, Route 910 climbs towards the eastern Highlands through empty landscapes of mountains and alpine lakes. Even in summer, I see few other cars on this scenic stretch, and despite my best efforts there are no reindeer to spot either, though I am assured they’re here. (Aha! As evasive as the Worm, it seems.) There’s a turn-off to reach the mountain hut at Snæfell, but I’m not in the necessary four-wheel-drive vehicle, so I pledge to return to view, circuit or summit the prime peak another time. At 6,014 ft (1,833 m), it’s Iceland’s highest point outside Vatnajökull glacier, and it’s popular with hikers and mountaineers who tackle it in one challenging day. For now, I detour to Laugarfell lodge and hot springs, just 1.2 mi (2 km) off Route

910. The 4.3-mi (7-km) Waterfall Circle is the perfect hike to make me feel like I’ve earned a lengthy soak in the hot pools after my return to the lodge. The walk lives up to its name with five cascades along the way, and afterwards, as I soak in the 104°F (40°C) warm water, Snæfell is framed by blue skies in the distance. A Bed for the Night: Lakeshore Camping or Historic Farm? I do feel that the Worm could be wooed to the surface come evening, so the two campgrounds among the woods of Hallormsstaðaskógur are appealing. Atlavík and Höfðavík are large, sheltered and shady campgrounds sitting on lake coves not far from one another. On days when the weather isn’t cooperating, there are other top-shelf options. (Fun fact: While summer failed to show up in Reykjavík in 2018, Hallormsstaðaskógur scored plentiful sunshine and frequent temperatures above 68°F / 20°C.) For the opportunity to step back in time, I can’t resist the Wilderness Center, found in a remote valley about 7.5 mi (12 km) southwest of Skriðuklaustur. Here, a filmmaker and historian couple has turned a farm into a one-of-a-kind experience. Meals, accommodation, activities, and museum exhibits combine storytelling ingenuity with a reverence for nature and the treasures of the past. As with my past trips East, on this visit there is no sign of the elusive Lagarfljót Worm. That won’t deter me. I’ll be back! 7 Soaking at Laugarfell lodge. Photo by Rhombie Sandoval. 8 Aspen House at Vallanes. Photo by Carolyn Bain. 9 Hengifoss from the air. Photo by Páll Guðmundur Ásgeirsson.

22 / Travel

SPECIAL PROMOTION

Icelandair Stopover / 23

Börkur Sigþórsson began his career as a photographer, then moved on to making music videos and commercials and eventually directing fiction for television. Two award-winning short films sprung from his love of storytelling and in May, he premiered his first feature film. Now touring festivals, crime thriller Vargur (Vultures) centers on two brothers in conflict with the law (and each other) and the drug mule on whom their fate depends. What is the story behind Vultures? It was born out of reflections on the economic collapse [in Iceland in 2008] and responsibility and how far you’re willing to go to protect your own interests. The crime genre is a good way to raise questions when the story is told from the perspective of a criminal, an antihero, when we put ourselves in his position and try to understand why this person is doing what he is doing. It’s not just a psychopath; there are real interests at stake. He may be willing to go further than you think you would, but nonetheless, he is acting due to reasoned decision-making. What can you tell us about the main characters, brothers Atli (Baltasar Breki Samper) and Erik (Gísli Örn Garðarsson)? I wanted to paint a picture of two men who grow up under similar circumstances but are very dissimilar. They have a mother who—as one can imagine—didn’t provide the best upbringing and they take different paths. The one whose path is more socially accepted feels pressured to go further; he has more to lose. So, the better you do in life the more ruthless you become. It’s a dark worldview and shows how skewed our system is when the scandal is not what is criminal—but what is legal—and how impotent the system is in fighting the power of the rich.

We don’t get much of a backstory for these characters. Why is that? I’m interested in showing characters through their actions but not necessarily looking into their upbringing or backgrounds. The only thing you see is how they react in the moment and [you] judge them by that, which is what we do on a daily basis. When we meet someone, like, when I met you, I didn’t know anything about you but form an opinion based on what you wear and how you got here. I’m very interested in filmmaking where the focus is on the character in the present. I did give them a lot of backstory but all we see is what [their actions are] after everything has begun. The detective, Lena (Marijana Jankovic), is originally from Serbia. How come? Foreigners are part of Icelandic society. Multiculturalism has come to stay and I thought it was important to have a character where it isn’t explained why she’s a foreigner, she just is. And because of it she has abilities to communicate with certain groups in society and sees things in a different context. What does this character, whose biggest motive it is to rescue the mule, say about the police? A large part of the storyline explores the police through Lena’s character, what hindrances she encounters when trying to investigate this case that isn’t considered to be of much importance. Emotion doesn’t belong in the system. They don’t think it’s worth investigating, which forms the basis for their decisionmaking. Humanity is lost in the process. What’s one little girl smuggling drugs?

BROTHERS WILL FIGHT Director Börkur Sigþórsson released his first feature film, thriller Vultures, in May. He discusses his inspirations as well as past and future projects. Marijana Jankovic as Lena.

How is the title reflected in the story? Vargur is a reference to brothers fighting to death and judgment day, or vargöld [“wolf-age” in Norse mythology]. Vargur can mean so many things. It’s a predator, or an outcast [in Egils Saga, Eyvindur “had slain a man on holy ground” and “was therefore made accursed”—in Icelandic: “vargur í véum”]. It can refer to the lower classes in society and can even be a compliment in business, about someone who goes further than others. All of the characters have a vargur in them. None of them are pure good or bad. Anna [Próchniak, who plays Zofia, the mule] and I worked extensively on her character. She isn’t just a victim. She has a very strong drive. I was also extremely pleased with the performance of Didda [Jónsdóttir, the mother]. She has a roughness in her. A roughness that faced those boys from the beginning.

24 / Film

BY EYGLÓ SVALA ARNARSDÓTTIR. PHOTO AND STILLS COURTESY OF RVK STUDIOS.

You’re currently directing BBC One’s Baptiste. What can you tell us about the new series? I direct three episodes out of six. It’s a spin-off of The Missing. There’s only one character from The Missing, French detective Julien Baptiste, played by Tchéky Karyo. It’s all about him, whereas in the first two series the focus was on the families. We’ve been shooting in Belgium. He gets caught up in an investigation of a missing person who is involved with organized crime and prostitution in Amsterdam. You’re also one of the directors of Icelandic crime series Trapped. What was the experience like? I directed two episodes in the first series and four in the sequel, which will premiere this winter. It’s a great project but very much unlike other projects I’ve worked on because it’s so much of a collaboration. When you write your own film, you’re responsible for all decisions—now you’re part of a team. [Show runner] Sigurjón

Kjartansson talks about it like a band. What I get out of it the most is working with other directors, which I rarely get the chance to do. Experiencing their work methods is incredibly educational.

Börkur on set.

What’s up next for you? I’ve worked non-stop for two years, so after we’ve wrapped up Baptiste I will take a break and bring my laptop with me to a sunny place. For me it’s a break to only focus on writing, to write in the morning and take it easy in the afternoon. But when I’ve slacked around for two months I know I will be aching to get back to shooting.

Can you reveal anything about the new film you’re writing? It won’t be a soft topic. Film-making reflects my contemplations and I’m preoccupied with what can be improved in society. Crime and antiheroes will continue to feature in my films. But you never know. When I make the romantic comedy it might be a hint that my life has taken a different course. You can watch Vultures on the in-flight entertainment system.

Anna Próchniak as Zofia.

Baltasar Breki Samper as Atli (left) and Gísli Örn Garðasson as Erik.

Icelandair Stopover / 25

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BY LISA GAIL SHANNEN. PHOTOS COURTESY OF ICELAND AIRWAVES.

ROCKING REYKJAVÍK! Iceland Airwaves celebrates its 20th anniversary 7–10 November 2018. Since its humble debut in 1999, Iceland Airwaves has not only become the leading music festival in Iceland, it has also established itself as a champion of new music and a significant event on the global music stage. It’s been covered in all the major international music press including Rolling Stone,

Kerrang!, MOJO and NME and has been described as “the biggest party in the Northern Hemisphere.” This year, the event will be celebrating its 20th anniversary by taking the festival back to its roots in the heart of Reykjavík and emphasizing the element of musical discovery.

INSIDER’S GUIDE Whether you’re new to Iceland Airwaves or a seasoned pro, if you plan on joining the party this year, there are a few things you should know. Take a look at our insider’s guide for some top tips on how to have as much fun as possible in four days.

We Made God, Hard Rock Café, Iceland Airwaves 2017. Photo by Júnía Líf Maríuerla.

WHAT TO PACK n Warm-ish clothing. Reykjavík can be cold in November, but not so cold you’ll need to wear down jackets and moon boots; just bring what you would normally wear for the season. The main problem you’ll have to deal with is getting too hot once you’re inside. The events take place in a number of different locations in the downtown area and not all the venues will offer a cloakroom service. The best solution is to bring a warm, light coat you can easily tie around your waist, or a nice tote you can stuff your coat in. Note! A coat in a tote also makes a nice buffer for comfort in crowded places. Note: If you think you’ll have time for adventures in the great outdoors, then by all means bring your walking shoes and plenty of layers and waterproofs. Don’t forget to ditch the Hyvent and Gore-Tex for your glad rags, though, once you get back to civilization.

n Hangover cure. Bring Alka-Seltzer (they don’t sell it in Iceland). In case you forget and are in need of the next best thing, head to the nearest apótek (pharmacy) and ask for something called Treo.

n Fanny packs (bumbags) are great for festivals, and thanks to a mashup of normcore, dadcore and some other “core” trends, they no longer look dorky if you wear them around your shoulder.

AVOIDING THE QUEUES The best way to avoid the queues is to either get there early or get a VIP upgrade (ISK 10,000 / USD 90), which allows you, amongst other special festival privileges, front-of-line access. The VIP upgrades sold out quickly this year, but keep them in mind for next. You can also check with the event’s social media, which give regular updates on how busy venues are and whether or not there are queues.

Earplugs. Your daily dose of decibels will go through the roof during this festival, so if you care about your hearing, invest in some decent earplugs. They might also help you get some sleep if you’re staying in downtown Reykjavík.

Beer. Alcohol is notoriously expensive in Iceland, so stock up at duty-free. To save money, locals tend to start the party at home or the hotel before they hit the nightlife. Note! If you have the Iceland Airwaves VIP upgrade, you’ll get 20% off all alcohol sold at the official venues.

28 / Music

WHAT APP? n Get the Airwaves app. It lists the full festival schedule and bios of all the bands performing and you can use it to create your own schedules and playlists. It has a map of the venues and it can also make music suggestions by scanning your Spotify and accessing your taste in music. Reykjavík Appy Hour is an app that lists all happy hours at Reykjavík bars. It’s a great money saving tool for economic drinkers.

EXPLORE Iceland Airwaves is all about discovering new music, so don’t be afraid to go off-piste a bit. Walk, or run—depending on the weather—between the venues and let chance lead you to some new audio dynamite.

BIGGEST ACTS 2018

Aurora. Photo by Morgan Hill Murphy.

OFF-VENUES Live music sounds from the most unlikely places during Airwaves, with coffee shops, bookstores and even clothing shops getting in on the action. While the official venues are where the main action takes place, most of the artists also play at the off-venues, usually with stripped-down acoustic sets.

WHERE TO RELAX The atmosphere during this four-day festival is overloaded with energy, so you’ll definitely need a place to unwind. Here’s where Iceland’s geothermal pools come in handy. Swimming pool culture is big in Reykjavík and there’s a pool in every district of the city. The closest in the downtown area is the newly-renovated Sundhöllin pool. YOU CAN’T BE IN 10 PLACES AT ONCE When it’s all over you can’t help feeling like you’ve missed something, and then you hear about what happened here and there and realize you have. Don’t feel bad, though; hearing and sharing your experience with people is all part of the fun.

Aurora (NO) As otherworldly as her name, Norway’s Aurora is a pint-sized musical dynamo. At only 22 years of age, the Bergen native is already well-loved throughout the world for her singular take on pop, which in a short space of time has gone from underground to completely viral. Her songs combine the personal with the political, in a style that’s entirely her own. Last time she visited Airwaves in 2015 she took Reykjavík Art Museum by storm with her free-willed and beguiling performance. With so much more music (and so many more fans) under her belt, we can’t wait to see what she will do this year. Cashmere Cat (NO) For the club heads, Cashmere Cat (aka Norwegian producer Magnus Høiberg) will be the DJ to catch at Iceland Airwaves. He first emerged primarily as an EDM producer, but since then has gone on to trap, rap pop and dance, taking them in all sorts of woozy directions. His production and stellar songwriting credits grow by the day. Outside the studio, his live sets contain many of his

COMPILED BY WILL LARNACH JONES.

Bríet.

signature tracks, which he’ll pepper with snippets of rap and electronica, mixing it in with his lightningstyle drum programming. He’ll be the one bringing the party this year (with a twist). Bríet (IS) Although she’s a relative newbie to the Icelandic music scene, we predict big things for Bríet. Still in her teens, she’s been bubbling under the last couple of years. Her first proper single, “In Too Deep,” dropped this January and it’s clocked up a lot of radio, streams and industry buzz. Her music is overrun with hooks, and wrapped up in her warm, assured voice. With a dash of RnB and electro, this is world-class futurepop! We’re looking forward to seeing what she’ll bring at Airwaves this November. Blood Orange (UK) Dev Hynes has been a Renaissance Man of indie pop for over a decade. Along the way he’s become a writer to the stars for the likes of Solange, Carly Rae Jepsen and Sky Ferreira. While he draws from rock, soul, funk and

Blood Orange.

everywhere in between, he always finds ways to make these in-fluences his own. With his fourth album Negro Swan due out ahead of Airwaves, he’ll be bringing his band to make his Icelandic debut this year. Ólafur Arnalds (IS) Ólafur Arnalds has been part of the Iceland Airwaves story for a few years now, last appearing in 2012 (and three years since he last played in Iceland). Since then, his evocative and emotive music has become even more loved internationally, selling out amazing venues like London’s Royal Albert Hall. While he’ll be visiting Harpa in December, for lucky Iceland Airwaves goers he’ll be playing two very special previews, with a show that takes in three programmed pianos and Ólafur’s array of players. Other people we’re thrilled to welcome back this year include beloved Faroese songbird Eivør (returning after 14 years for two shows), and Reykjavík’s Högni (also for two special shows).

Iceland Airwaves is one of 109 festivals taking part in global initiative Keychange, committed to booking equal numbers of male and female acts by 2022. Ahead of its 20th anniversary, Iceland Airwaves became the first festival to meet the goal, booking 50% female acts for the 2018 edition in November.

Icelandair Stopover / 29

2004 EIVØR

Eivør first visited Airwaves way back in 2004, and some 14 years later she makes a welcome return for 2018. In the time since, she’s become a creative figurehead in the Faroese music scene, touring all over the world. Reykjavík was her adopted home for a short while and she’s well loved by Icelanders and international fans alike. Her music continues to blend traditional Faroese balladry with left-field pop and more and more people take notice.

2008 FLORENCE AND THE MACHINE

Airwaves has always been proud of being ahead of the curve, and in 2008 Florence and the Machine was beginning to ride the first waves of success onto global superstardom. Other bands that have gone on to great success worldwide after the festival include Of Monsters and Men, Kaleo and last year’s special discovery, Sigrid from Norway. Photo by Emma Svensson.

Photo by Billi.

ICELAND AIRWAVES – BIGGEST MOMENTS Here are some of the most extraordinary acts of the past 20 Iceland Airwaves. BY WILL LARNACH JONES.

2011 BJÖRK

2012 RETRO STEFSON

It’s hard to believe that Iceland Airwaves has grown from one show in an airplane hangar to taking over every nook and cranny in downtown Reykjavík. These photos celebrate some iconic moments from Airwaves over the years. We look forward to seeing you this November 7–10 and hope you make some fantastic discoveries of your own.

2014 THE FLAMING LIPS

Retro Stefson were at their After a long wait—the band formed in Over a decade into creative and commercial peak 1983—The Flaming Lips finally came to Airwaves, Björk finally around 2012, with a couple of Iceland with a show of mad ebullience that paid Airwaves a longnumber one singles in Iceland and a had the crowd grinning from ear to ear in awaited visit, bringing hit self-titled album. You can see how total joyous party mood. Replete with their the wondrous Biophilia wild the crowd was for the band as trademark balloons, streamers and props, project to the Harpa Haraldur Ari crowd surfs way out into the the show was a completely unforgettable Concert Hall. Taking all audience. Though Retro Stefson is sadly experience. sorts of instrumentano longer, both Unnsteinn and Logi Pedro Photo by Matthew Eisman. tion and a barefoot from the band will be performing with their Icelandic female new projects at this year’s Airwaves. choir, the show was Photo by Þorgeir Ólafsson. certainly one to remember and one of the most ambitious the festival has hosted. Photo by Ari Magg.

30 / Music

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AIRBRIDGE ACROSS THE OCEAN Meet the recipients of this year’s Reykjavík Loftbrú awards!

The 2018 Loftbrú recipients with representatives of the Reykjavík Loftbrú fund. Photo by Sigtryggur Ari Jóhannsson.

With all that ocean between Iceland and the rest of the world, being a touring Icelandic band or musician with heavy musical equipment in tow can present more than a few challenges and lots of extra costs. With this in mind, the Reykjavík Loftbrú fund—a collaboration between Icelandair, Reykjavík City, STEF (The Performing Rights Society of Iceland), FÍH (The Icelandic Musicians’ Union) and FHF (The National Federation of the Phonographic Industry)—was established to assist rising music stars on their journeys to success abroad. This year, the five recipients (who each receive a ISK 2 million [USD 19,000] gift card for airline tickets and excess baggage with Icelandair) are Reykjavíkurdætur, Hugar, AdHd, Anna Thorvaldsdottir and Mammút.

Lisa Gail Shannen caught up with them for a quick Q&A.

32 / Music

thing for us has to be the unity between members and the memories we’ve created through years of teen angst and the adult years, all over the world. Corny, but it’s true.

Photo by Viðar Logi.

Will you be performing at this year’s Iceland Airwaves? Yes, we’ll be performing. The excitement is real; we can’t wait. We’re gonna get into people’s heads this year and give them a show they’ll be afraid to talk about.

MAMMÚT Shamanistic Hard Rock

Congratulations on being a recipient of this year’s Reykjavík Loftbrú award! How did you celebrate? We celebrated the award by accepting some festival offers across Europe that we couldn’t have done without it. It was great! We are very grateful.

Photo by Berglaug Petra Garðarsdóttir.

REYKJAVÍKURDÆTUR Icelandic Hip-Hop

What’s your favorite part of the musical journey… composing, traveling, making videos, etc.? The best part of composing is when sounds and pieces come together the “right” way after a long writing session; it’s as if your mind somehow opens. Like a soft lightning in your brain. But the most precious What does the award mean to you and how will it help? This award means a lot to us because it helps us enormously on our mission to play our music all over the world! It’s also a great honor to get this support and it motivates us to keep doing what we’re doing. What do you love most about making music? The expression part of music making is probably the healthiest and most releasing element. Also, the creative process, combining solo work and co-operation, but the performance is probably the most alive, electric and dangerous part. All those parts of making music are amazing, but the artist’s constant new answer to her and everything’s existence is definitely the thing we love the most.

Your latest album, Kinder Versions, has been described as your international calling card. Do you have any exciting travel dates lined up? We’re finishing the summer festival season and starting writing with studio sessions in London in late September, so Loftbrú will come in handy this fall, for recording and performing. We’re also prepping a secret project for 2019, which will be announced soon. Other show dates can be found on our website—there’s always something cooking.

Iceland Airwaves is celebrating its 20 th anniversary this year. What have been the highlights for you over the years? The amount of opportunities and contacts that Iceland Airwaves has provided us has made such a difference and has been the most prosperous showcase so far. What’s next for Reykjavíkurdætur? We’re releasing a mixtape soon and then we’ll start working on a new album! We’ve been touring around Europe this summer so we’re really excited to return with some new material next year.

Icelandair Stopover / 33

ANNA THORVALDSDOTTIR Contemporary Classical Your music has traveled far and wide, but do places you have traveled to ever inspire your music? Traveling can certainly be very inspiring, and getting inspiration from different places is really important. It’s always intriguing to hear music from different places but also the places themselves and their surroundings can have a deep inspirational impact—paying attention to the different environments and cultures can be very inspirational. Your compositions are charged with different textures and emotion. What’s

Photo by Saga Sigurðardóttir.

the most exciting thing about communicating with sound and music? Music is such a big part of my life. I create music in the same way that I experience the world, in a sense. Writing music is, for me, a very personal practice which is influenced by every-

thing around me. My music is born from a process of internal listening and all the textures and sounds are to me like shades of melodies that are existing in the space of the music, and everything weaves together into a single whole that comes together through all the layers of textures and harmonies. It’s wonderful and exciting to be able to work in the field of your passion, and it’s something that I am really thankful for. Are there any places you dream of visiting for musical inspiration? Antarctica! Has been a dream of mine for a long, long time. Do you have any new projects on the horizon you can tell us about? How did you react to the news you’d won the Loftbrú award? We are very happy about it. Thanks.

Photo by Spessi.

What’s the story behind the band name? No story really. We are all diagnosed or should have a diagnosis of some sorts probably... I heard that one of your albums was written while you were traveling. Where’s the most memorable place you’ve ever composed a song?

ADHD – Jazz/Experimental Congratulations! What does the award mean to you? Loftbrú opens up lots of opportunities. Opportunities for us to perform our music to our listeners all over the world and have our music travel outside of Iceland. With our success from streaming platforms we’ve been able to reach audiences that we would have never dreamed of. And to get the opportunity to go to those places and play for them is truly an honor. Photo by Ingibjörg Birgisdóttir and Lilja Birgisdóttir.

HUGAR – Neo-Classical, Cinematic, Post-Rock 34 / Music

What does the name “Hugar” mean and is it reflective of the music you create?

The name Hugar translates to the English word “minds,” reflecting that we are two individuals with two minds creating music. Being a duo gives us opportunities to find new ways to expand our minds. Will you be performing at Iceland Airwaves this year? We are so excited to be performing at Iceland Airwaves for the third time as Hugar. We will bring the performance that we will be touring with this year and new music from our upcoming album, which is really exciting. It’s always fun to

There are a number of exciting projects on the horizon: The European premiere of my most recent orchestra piece METACOSMOS with the Berlin Philharmonic in January 2019, which will then be performed in Reykjavík by the Iceland Symphony Orchestra (where I am currently composer-inresidence), and then in Helsinki by the Helsinki Philharmonic. I’m currently writing a large orchestra piece for the Gothenburg Symphony Orchestra, which is really exciting. And then there’s a new portrait album with a selection of my recent chamber pieces coming out this autumn, performed by the International Contemporary Ensemble.

One of the records we rehearsed and wrote in a living room somewhere in some wooded area in Germany. We had a little gap in our tour and decided to write a few songs. The most memorable... not really sure... Which cities can look forward to getting a visit from AdHd in the near future? We’re going on tour in the fall. We don’t have the full schedule yet, but Copenhagen on October 11 is the one we remember. perform in Iceland in front of our friends and family, but also a little nerve-wracking. What’s coming up next on Hugar’s musical journey? We’ll be releasing singles this fall and also our sophomore album will be released early 2019. We will start touring this fall and throughout 2019. We are grateful to have an amazing team around us that makes it all possible. More projects are on our horizon and we’re always making more music.

Subway follows you on your trip around Iceland.

Over 20 locations around the country.

Icelandair Stopover / 35

BY LARISSA KYZER. PHOTOS COURTESY OF THE PRESIDENTIAL OFFICE.

(NOT) GOING BY THE BOOK Eliza Reid writes her own rules for being Iceland’s First Lady. “I’ve often said, there’s no handbook for being First Lady,” Eliza Reid tells me as we sit down for a chat at Bessastaðir, the dignified, yet distinctly unimposing redroofed presidential residence on the Álftanes peninsula, just across the bay from Reykjavík. Icelanders, you’ve probably heard, do not stand on ceremony: I drove my just-barely serviceable hatchback, bumper held together with dubious-looking strips of black duct tape, straight through the gate and walked right up to the head of state’s front door. The same lack of artifice and easy approachability applies to Eliza herself, an Ottawa-born, Oxford-educated journalist who’s lived in Iceland for 15 years and who assures me that she had “a thing” earlier and definitely did not dress up for me. It’s almost two years since Eliza and her husband, President Guðni Th. Jóhannesson, were living in Reykjavík with their four school-age children. At the time, Guðni was a history professor at the University of Iceland, and Eliza was the managing editor of this very publication, while simultaneously running her own event management and communications firm and co-founding the Iceland Writers Retreat. It’s perhaps unsurprising, then, that as a person who’s worn a variety of professional hats and gone to considerable lengths to make opportunities for herself in her adopted homeland, Eliza would be at great pains to remain actively involved in work and causes she’s passionate about. “An area I’m quite interested in is gender equality, empowerment for women and girls,” she tells me. “And there’s a clear irony there—in having that interest and being in the position I’m in because of something my husband has done.” But, with characteristic determination and positivity, Eliza chooses to see the mutability of her current role as an opportunity. 36 / Profile

Eliza in Oman, attending a UNWTO/UNESCO conference on sustainable tourism.

“I suppose it can be a positive or negative thing,” she says, “and I just choose to look at it as a positive because it means that I get to shape the role and contribute in ways that I feel I can be the most valuable.”

such as the Association of Women Business Leaders. She’s also traveled extensively around the country, a privilege, she says, through which she’s met “people from all kinds of backgrounds and all walks of life.”

Forging Connections Eliza has always been something of a champion multi-tasker, and that hasn’t changed. A passionate traveler with a deep understanding of the tourism industry, she was recently named a UN Special Ambassador for Tourism and the Sustainable Development Goals. She’s also the patron of a wide variety of organizations, ranging from the Pieta House for suicide and self-harm prevention, to the Icelandic Culinary Team.

Eliza navigates these different interactions and audiences with aplomb, a skill she developed as a traveler, yes, but also as an immigrant in Iceland. “I’m quite grateful that I’ve had the opportunity to experience being an immigrant,” she says. “And there’s so many different forms of immigration and different kinds of immigrants. My story of being an immigrant is obviously very different from many other people’s stories, but they all come with different sets of challenges and opportunities and allow us to have a different perspective on the country that we’ve chosen to make our home.”

Since becoming First Lady, she’s given dozens of speeches—in Icelandic, English, and French—addressing, among others, international delegations and dignitaries in Finland, Oman, Sweden and the United States, as well as visiting the UN Women-run Zaatari refugee camp in Jordan. At home, she’s given the opening remarks at a range of cultural events, delivered graduation addresses, and spoken to organizations

Here again, Eliza sees another opportunity, this time to use her own position to uplift other immigrants in her community: “I think it’s important, for instance, that I make speeches, that I do live interviews, in Icelandic, so that people hear me speaking my good, but imperfect Icelandic, and know

Eliza visits the UN Women Oasis in a Zaatari refugee camp in Jordan.

that it’s alright to decline a verb wrong and speak with an accent. And hopefully, that gives other people who are also learning the language an opportunity to come forward.” Bragging Rights “I often say that because I chose to live in Iceland, rather than being born here, that it gives me more right to brag about the country,” Eliza jokes. And indeed, her admiration for the country and its people extends quite broadly. “One of the things that ... warms my heart time and time again is ... how often you see people who are just giving so much to their communities for a different cause or another,” she tells me at one point, before later extolling the landscapes that she still “has no words for” and the fresh air, which she says is “the first thing I remember from the very first time I came to Iceland.” Chief among the many things that Eliza loves to celebrate about Iceland and what makes it unique, however, is the country’s breadth of cultural pursuits, not least its rich tradition of, and love for, literature. “Perhaps the most noteworthy thing for people abroad is the respect that Iceland-

I often say that because I chose to live in Iceland, rather than being born here, that it gives me more right to brag about the country.

ers individually and as a society as a whole bear for not only literary pursuits, but also the creative arts ... and the amount of money that the state invests into supporting artists in various capacities ... [T]he way in which choosing to pursue say, a career in the arts, is seen as a very worthy contribution [to society].” Her own contribution in this respect is, of course, her “professional baby,” the Iceland Writers Retreat (IWR). Going into its sixth year, IWR draws an international roster of venerable instructors (Geraldine Brooks, Linn Ullman, and Taiye Selasi among them),

brings them together with local literary luminaries and participants from Iceland and abroad, and creates a unique environment in which award-winning published authors mix freely with enthusiastic amateurs. “I compare [it] a lot,” Eliza explains, “to say, if you like cooking, you might go to Thailand for a week and take a cooking class. It doesn’t mean you have to be a professional chef, although you might be—it just means you have an interest in that craft.” Eliza lights up describing the retreat— where it fits in alongside Iceland’s myriad literary festivals and how it adds something new to the scene, namely, with a workshop and teaching component. It’s an endeavor she’s immensely passionate about and it gives her yet another outlet in which to connect with others. “I love meeting all the different people who attend, and I stay in touch with a lot of them. And it’s obviously professionally so rewarding to have created this event ... that gives so much pleasure to so many people. And, you know, I said I never wanted to get a new job just because my husband got a new job. It was never even a question for me of not continuing to work on this.” Icelandair Stopover / 37

Embracing Faith and Nature

N. Lapadari

Artist Brynja Sverrisdóttir has redesigned her soul-stirring bracelet, presenting a lighter version with a stronger connection to nature. EMBRACING FAITH AND NATURE 2021 is the latest piece from Icelandic artist Brynja Sverrisdóttir’s collection EMBRACING FAITH – Creative Peace by Brynja. The 87 g (3 oz) silver bracelet is engraved with 21 ancient symbols of faith and includes new symbols not seen in previous versions, for example the peace dove. By using a symbol from the animal kingdom in her design, Brynja invites those who choose to wear it to embrace nature, as well as peace and harmony. Another novelty is the Khanda, the symbol of the Sikh faith. The new bracelet comes in a slender and elegant case. The collection includes six items—two bracelets, two rings and two necklaces—and bracelets and rings can also be custom made. Exquisitely crafted in textured and polished sterling silver, the pieces in Brynja’s EMBRACING FAITH collection are handmade and manufactured in Italy and Great Britain. The signature jewelry line comes with a certificate booklet signed by the artist.

Brian Griffin.

Brynja, who was an international high-fashion model in the 80s and 90s, is known for her work with various fashion designers around the world. Photographs of her can be seen in recent art books such as Giorgio Armani’s biography in conjunction with the Armani/ Silos museum in Milan, Valentino Magic, Gianni Versace’s The Naked and the Dressed by Richard Avedon, and Yves Saint Laurent by Roxanne Lowit. Flip over this magazine and you’ll discover our exclusive Saga Shop Collection of on-board duty-free products.

38 / Special Promotion

Aid Peace© Drawing by Brynja.

Gian Paulo Barbieri for Valentino.

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NEW ERA OF EDUCATION

BY NANNA H. JUELSBO.

The school, in the fjord, on the island.

View of Seyðisfjörður. Photo by Sveinn Birkir Björnsson.

We are on the top of a mountain pass sliding past snowy dunes in a vast open landscape. Crossing this pass is an inevitable way to get us to where we are going. This is the only road in and the only road out. At the end of the road, at the foot of the mountains, in a fjord on the east coast of Iceland lies the picturesque Seyðisfjörður, a historical fishing village known today for its rich art and cultural life. In this hotspot of beautiful old houses and colorful people exists a school unlike any other school in Iceland. And this might be the beginning of a new era within education in Iceland. The LungA School is run by Jonatan Spejlborg and Lasse Høgenhof, both of whom are from Denmark, but now living in Iceland. I meet Jonatan on a clear and chilly day to learn more about the origin of The LungA School and the intention behind the attempt to establish folk high schools in Iceland. “We opened The LungA School in the spring of 2014. The remoteness, the smallness of the town, the darkness in the winter, the surrounding mountains and the cold sea are all conditions that contribute to the kind of focused attention and practice that lays the fundament for this school. Today, we have two programs throughout the year, one spring semester and one fall semester, with students from all over the world. Each semester is 12 weeks long and has the capacity of 16 students usually aged between 18 and 30.” 40 / Education

The LungA School originates from an annual art festival taking place in Seyðisfjörður in July, the LungA Festival. Today, the school works as an independent art school focused on experimental artistic practice within a wide range of media and materials. The students are not required to meet any educational criteria nor specific experience, meaning everyone can apply. The school is inspired by the tradition of folk high schools originating from the 1850s in Denmark. Historically, the schools were formed to democratize education and introduce the general public to knowledge about art, culture and philosophy, and today 70 folk high schools are spread all over Denmark, each with its own subject focus, such as sports, music, religion and arts. Throughout a semester at the LungA School the 16 students are taught by 10–15 guest teachers, who are professionals from various fields within arts and philosophy, in week-long workshops inviting the students into a particular topic or medium such as visual art, sound and music, or performance, as well as the cultural and theoretical understanding of these crafts. Jonatan explains: “We are very focused on developing an understanding of the cultural and historical context in which we exist today. The LungA School is rooted in a tradition of independent experimental art schools that exist on the fringes of established practices and that intend to charter into unknown territory concerning

what artistic practice can look like and how it can be given form in a lived life. Besides this, we have also become integrated in the local community of Seyðisfjörður and exist here as both an educational and cultural institution with a range of events and activities that are open for anyone.” Since 2014, the LungA School has hosted around 140 participants from every corner of the world. Jonatan and Lasse keep contact with several of the former students as many of them continue to pass through Seyðisfjörður. Some decide to stay around for shorter or longer time. A few never leave the fjord again. “It is incredible to follow the paths that the students decide to walk after the school. They tell us that the school has played a huge role in developing a confidence in pursuing dreams and ideas that they did not consider possible before. I am always incredibly impressed with the brave decisions that they make and how they assume a responsibility of both their lives and their dreams. That is why it keeps on being interesting.” Responsibility is a key word at the LungA School. The teacher’s role is to push and support the students towards developing both particular skills and more generic competences while the students are encouraged to take ownership of their own interests to shape their actions and lead their lives based on these skills and interests. At

Artwork created by the students of the LungA School. Courtesy of the school.

the end of the day, art is about how we decide to live our lives. Jonatan elaborates: “I believe that there is a great need in Iceland for acknowledging educational institutions that decidedly focus on informal learning situations and that allows for learning to be experiential and to take place through engaging experiences. Iceland has, perhaps because of its small population, a tradition of blurred lines in the arts, and this fits very well with how we envision art education taking place. I think this has contributed to the general openness towards artists and their role in the society in a way where the lines between various fields of practice are not so sharply drawn. Through artistic practice we are trying to make interesting lives for ourselves and each other and to create spaces for these lives to be lived.” The LungA School’s alternative approach to education seems to have created a ripple effect in Iceland. Iceland’s second folk high school opened in Flateyri in the Westfjords in September, and the third is set to open in Laugarvatn, South Iceland, once

a legislative framework has been established. Jonatan and Lasse have been working towards making the LungA School a recognized part of the Icelandic educational system, and the three schools are now collaborating to ensure long-term political and financial support for folk high schools in Iceland.

Jonatan Spejlborg (left) and Lasse Høgenhof. Photo by Haley Clark.

The LungA School is rooted in a tradition of independent experimental art schools that exist on the fringes of established practices.

“I think that Iceland and the Icelandic youth would benefit enormously if folk high schools were established in a number of places around the country. One thing is the socio-economic influence on the local communities in which the schools exist, something that could be hugely important at a time when many rural communities are experiencing decreasing populations and activities. But these schools also play a huge role culturally. They cultivate a sense of responsibility, both shared and individual, which I believe is fundamental for figuring out how we should organize ourselves in the years to come in these times that are, to say the least, uncertain.” This fall, the LungA School will once again open its doors to a new group of students. Some will come from countries afar, some from the neighboring fjords. It’s safe to say that all of them will be left with memories, bleached by each other and the yellow hillsides at the end of this road.

Icelandair Stopover / 41

TRENDY TOUCHES

VEGGIE WONDERLAND

CLASSIC CUISINE

Pair creative, award-winning chefs with fresh, seasonal and local produce and you can’t go wrong. Add exquisite interior design and you’ve got Geiri Smart: a feast for all senses.

Vegetarians, vegans, and healthfood aficionados should visit Gló, a local chain of restaurants that pride themselves on using fresh, healthy and local ingredients in their flavor explosions.

If you want to do the tried and tested, Ostabúðin is your spot. This modestlooking restaurant serves excellently cooked fresh fish and meat. They also offer a fine selection of cheeses and cured and marinated delicacies.

HANNESARHOLT • RESTAURANT REYKJAVÍK • STEIKHÚSIÐ TORFAN • SLIPPURINN • OSTABÚÐIN • GEIRI SMART • GLÓ ESSENSIA • VOX • OSUSHI THE TRAIN • TORFAN • SATT

Over the past few years, Iceland’s culinary scene has taken huge leaps forward. With more selection than ever before, it should be easy to find a restaurant somewhere in the country that tickles your fancy.

13 OF OUR FAVORITE RESTAURANTS IN REYKJAVÍK To help you with your search for the perfect fare in Iceland, we’ve compiled a short description of some noteworthy places in the Dining Advisor brochure in the seat pocket in front of you.

You can also dive into a culinary episode on the in-flight entertainment system and Wi-Fi portal on board.

Only 35 min. from Reykjavík

A journey into RAUFARHÓLSHELLIR

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PORTRAITS OF A NATION

A photo book celebrating the 100th anniversary of Iceland becoming a free and sovereign state portrays 101 Icelanders born 1918–2018. INTRODUCTION BY EYGLÓ SVALA ARNARSDÓTTIR.

On December 1, 1918, Iceland became a free and sovereign state when the Union Treaty with Denmark came into effect. The treaty was an important step towards full independence, which was achieved on June 17, 1944. Iceland had then been under the rule of first Norway and then Denmark for centuries, since the end of the Commonwealth in 1264. The milestone has been celebrated with varied events throughout the country since January, and will peak around the actual centenary on

December 1. (For more information, go to fullveldi1918.is.) Photo book Portraits of a Nation by Svava Jónsdóttir and Friðþjófur Helgason— published on the occasion of the centennial anniversary of Iceland’s sovereignty— contains landscapes and portraits of 101 Icelanders, aged 0-100, and all but the youngest answer the question “What does Iceland mean to you?” Here are a few examples.

1918 // ÁSTA JÓRUNN GUÐMUNDSDÓTTIR Iceland is simply my country. I have visited various countries and I have never wanted to live anywhere else. I was raised on the farm Snartastaðir in the valley Lundareykjadalur. I had a house with sheep and cows just outside the family farm. We often picked crowberries. I was young when I started working on the farm but I was happy being able to help my parents. I had good parents. I loved to travel and my favorite place has always been Þórsmörk. It’s so nice being there. So much tranquility and nature is beautiful. There are many beautiful places in Iceland. I always look forward to spring and even though I don’t tolerate the sun very well, I am always happiest when spring arrives. The only thing we are missing on the trees here in Iceland is fruits. I would love to have fruit trees here but I guess it is too cold for that.

44 / Sovereignty

1958 // HILMAR ÖRN HILMARSSON Composer and The High Chieftain of the Icelandic Ásatrú Association Iceland is like an eccentric poet and author. The author is unconventional and prone to being turgid and obscure but there are surprising chapters where he gains wings and the narrative escapes the boundaries of the rational and becomes illuminating in an unexpected way. It often happens that old works gain a new life as the outside world suddenly starts to appreciate the old and hitherto obscure texts and they become progressive instead of an antiquarian. Literary critics invent terms such as “magical realism” that help new generations to tackle the subject with a fresh approach. Icelandophile Jorge Luis Borges defined the role of the poet: “You think you are alone and as the years go by, if the stars are in alignment, you may discover that you are at the center of a vast circle of invisible friends whom you will never know, but who do love you.” This is how I perceive Iceland.

1986 // GRETA SALÓME STEFÁNSDÓTTIR Musician In my mind you can see Iceland’s nature, weather and history reflecting in the Icelandic people and their culture. We live in a country that has a unique nature and landscape and many say that Iceland is beautiful. I think the adjective “beautiful” is quite weak when describing Iceland. Its nature is raw, magnificent and at times extremely dangerous. Iceland’s nature and temper is fickle and we have had to react and adjust because of that since the first inhabitants came here, due to volcanic eruptions, earthquakes, blizzards or storms. We spend so much time in the cold which makes us stronger but at the same time we have to spend a lot of time indoors to protect ourselves from the cold which makes the relations between family and friends stronger as well. Our closeness to the raw, cold, powerful nature creates another closeness, the one Icelanders have with each other.

1943 // ÓLAFUR R. GRÍMSSON Chairman and founder of Arctic Circle. Former President of Iceland, member of Parliament, Minister and Professor Iceland is our historic homeland which advanced the saga of how throughout these 100 years a small nation of farmers and fishermen achieved global excellence in many fields; became a model in the utilization of clean energy and research on melting glaciers – both crucial in the fight against changes in the Earth’s climate; developed in the same period a society inspired by democracy, equality, welfare and respect for a nature which is unique in the world.

1976 // KATRÍN JAKOBSDÓTTIR // Prime Minister In Iceland, the sun can shine so brightly that it illuminates the people on the outside and on the inside and still it is cold. In Iceland, the colors can be so stark that life becomes more beautiful, whether it is the green of the grass, the mountain blue, or the snowy white. In Iceland, the breeze can be warm and the gentle wind can be cool, the gale can be wet and the storm frigid. To me, Iceland is light, colors, and wind, as they exist only there. Icelandair Stopover / 45

DISCOVERING ICELAND IN THE SKY Whether you’re flying with us today en route to or from Iceland, or between Europe and North America with a short airport stopover, we’d like you to feel as if you’ve learned a little bit about our country during the flight. We’re very proud of our Icelandic heritage and culture and hope we’re able to share that enthusiasm with you. Take a look around you now. You should spot several little glimpses of Iceland, but if you want to catch them all, here’s our cheat sheet: The music as you boarded was composed and performed by Icelandic artists. Like it? It’s from our Icelandair Spotify playlist. You can check out the playlist in our in-flight entertainment system. Our menu selection features Icelandic ingredients and snacks like hjónabandssæla (oat-and-jam square) and awardwinning lager.

46 / Icelandair

We are very proud of our ancient language. You’ll see some samples of Icelandic, which is a North Germanic language, throughout the cabin. Some headrests show Icelandic translations of some common phrases in English, while pillow covers show a popular traditional lullaby both in Icelandic and in translation. The paper cups list the different words used in Icelandic for cups, and the napkins tell you about Iceland’s first settlers. Our in-flight entertainment system features numerous Icelandic films, documentaries and television programs, as well as an exclusive documentary called Unique Iceland, which will introduce you to some of the country’s highlights for visitors. We’re so proud of our volcanoes, glaciers and other natural wonders, that we’ve even named our aircraft after them. After all, Iceland is famous for its spectacular landscapes. Each one bears the moniker of an Icelandic attraction, including the

Icelandair’s travel experience introduces you to our special country. famously unpronounceable Eyjafjallajökull volcano—which actually doubles as a glacier—Vatnajökull, Europe’s largest glacier, Látrabjarg, Europe’s largest bird cliff, and now also Þingvellir, the rift valley where our parliament was founded in 930 AD. At the risk of being immodest, we think our water is the best tasting water in the world. Try it for yourself on this flight. We serve refreshing Icelandic Glacial water throughout the trip. On some lucky aircraft you’ll find mood lighting, like on Vatnajökull: The blue LED lighting in the cabin creates the illusion of being inside an ice cave, while on Hekla Aurora it feels as if you’re watching the northern lights dancing in the Icelandic winter sky. We hope you enjoy your flight with us.

Refuel at OlÃs We welcome you to our service stations around Iceland where you can refuel and enjoy our services. Great variety of tasty food and beverages and everything else you might need on the road. Visit us at olis.is/travel

QUIZNOS Tasty subs, wraps or salads FREE FUEL DISCOUNT CARD

COFFEE & PASTRY

FREE COFFEE WITH DISCOUNT CARD

FREE WI-FI

Servicing travellers since 1927Icelandair Stopover

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EVERY TRIP IS AN ADVENTURE

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Icelandair Stopover / 49

SVERRIR GOES INTERNATIONAL BY TINA JØHNK CHRISTENSEN.

Icelandic actor Sverrir Páll Guðnason is the third actor to portray Stieg Larsson’s Mikael Blomkvist in The Girl in the Spider’s Web.

50 / Film

Icelandic actor Sverrir Páll Guðnason will appear as Stieg Larsson’s Mikael Blomkvist in The Girl in the Spider’s Web, set for US release in November. He plays the character in the international production, with Fede Alvarez from Uruguay in the director’s chair. This is an adaptation of the fourth book in the series, written by Swedish author David Lagercrantz, who continued Larsson’s Scandi Noir universe after his death. Sverrir grew up in Iceland and started his acting career in a Halldór Laxness play at the Reykjavík City Theatre. When he saw Danish director Bille August’s film Pelle the Conqueror at age 10, he knew he wanted to be in film, too. This led him to Sweden where he got his first international breakthrough as the Swedish tennis legend Björn Borg. Now he’s on the verge of becoming an international star. Investigative journalist Mikael Blomkvist has been played by Daniel Craig and Michael Nyqvist before you. How do you avoid following in their footsteps and instead make him your own? I respect them both enormously. And Michael Nyqvist was a close personal friend of mine so I have great memories of him. I’ve seen Daniel on screen. They are both great. I felt I had to find my own Blomkvist, and you always have to find your own. You have to find your own Hamlet if you do Hamlet. So it’s a process. If you change an actor it’s always going to be different. Did you read the books and what did you think of the fourth book, which was not written by Stieg Larsson? I read them when they first came out years ago, but I had to go back to them now. I think he [David Lagercrantz] has done a wonderful job of continuing that universe and make the characters live on. Everybody seems very happy about how he’s done it. He’s a great writer. Even though this is not a Scandinavian production, there were quite a few Scandinavians in the cast. What was the experience like? Claes Bang [who portrays the villain] is a great actor. He was so great in The Square. And working with him in Berlin was just fantastic. He’s a very nice guy. We used to watch soccer games together. Synnøve Macody Lund [details of her character have not been released] is Norwegian and is also a fantastic actress. And then we have the great Mikael Persbrandt [who plays another shady character], who is a Swedish superstar and also a fantastic actor.

What did playing the Swedish tennis legend Björn Borg mean to your career? When they asked me to do Borg, I almost said no three times because I felt it would be dangerous to take the role as a Swedish superhero. Everybody knows how he is, so you have to match what people think about him? I decided to do it because I was looking at footage of him and I saw something in his eyes that I felt I could do. I started puzzling together pieces about Borg. I had to learn tennis, of course. So I played tennis for six months before the shoot. It was just a fun time: Eating clean and training, which makes you [feel] positive. I didn’t have a single bad thought for a year. It also opened doors to some international work. A lot of people in the business have seen the movie so maybe I got chances I wouldn’t have gotten without it. You grew up in Reykjavík but live in Stockholm. Do you have any plans on moving to Los Angeles now that you have an international career? I have a family in Stockholm and a great life there, so I want to continue that. How is your relationship to Iceland now that you have moved? I go back a lot and I bring my kids. I have to go to Iceland at least twice a year to kind of charge my creative batteries. Even if it’s in the winter and it’s cold. You can always jump in the hot spring. You just have to remember to dip your head so your hair doesn’t freeze and fall off. How did you feel when Iceland did so well at the Euro 2016 championship and later on at the World Cup? Are you patriotic? Iceland for me is my home and it’s my origin. I really love Sweden as well and rooted for Sweden as well in the World Cup. So I have two teams. I just love Iceland and I go back as much as I can. And it’s really a strong landscape and I never get tired of it. What do you love about Iceland? There’s some kind of force in nature and in society. People are very active and always have two or three jobs and hobbies. Even if you’re a doctor, you’re still painting. There’s a lot of culture and a lot of books coming out … And if you don’t like the weather in Iceland, you can wait five minutes because it’s always changing.

Above: From The Girl in the Spider’s Web: Sverrir as Mikael Blomkvist and Claire Foy as Lisbeth Salander. Previous page: Sverrir Páll Guðnason as investigative journalist Mikael Blomkvist.

Icelandair Stopover / 51

IS FLYING MAKING YOU FAMISHED?

SAGA SHOP KITCHEN No problem. Our new Economy menu has never been more appetizing and varied. Just fish it out of the seat pocket in front of you and order what your heart desires.

Chicken Caesar salad sandwich Grilled chicken, romaine lettuce, baked tomatoes, avocado and Caesar dressing with parmesan cheese. Turkey pretzel triangle Honey-roasted turkey, barbecue mayonnaise, fresh salad and red bell peppers in a freshly baked crispy butter pretzel triangle.

Tapas snack box Serrano ham, mini fuet, grissini, bruschetta dip and matured Iberico cheese. Tapas snack box + olives + wine.

Hamburger Factory burger duet Two juicy hamburgers with cheese and sauce from the Icelandic Hamburger Factory. Hamburgers + Pringles + beer.

We welcome your feedback on the dining experience on board. Please drop us a line at kitchen@icelandair.is with any comments. Verði þér að góðu! Bon appétit!

52 / Saga Shop Kitchen

DO YOU FLY REGULARLY WITH ICELANDAIR? Our Frequent Flyer Program, Icelandair Saga Club, has multiple benefits for all members as well as special offers and benefits for our most frequent flyers who have acquired Saga Silver and Saga Gold status.

Saga Gold and Saga Silver benefits:

Members can earn from 850 to 7,200 Card Points for each leg with Icelandair and need 40,000 Card Points to become a Saga Silver member and 80,000 Card Points to become a Saga Gold member.

* To the next cabin when space available

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#MYSTOPOVER:

FOCUS ON FOOTBALL Photographer Joseph Fox spent four weeks in Iceland in search of the national football spirit. As an Englishman and a fanatic follower of the Three Lions, there are only two words that make my blood run cold: Penalties and Iceland. Since the day England froze and Iceland took full advantage, the smallest nation ever to have made it to the European Championships then made it to the World Cup. With a population of 350,000, only 2010 qualifiers Trinidad and Tobago—who have a population four times the size— had ever come close to achieving something so profound. Writer Matt McGinn and I became completely infatuated with the idea that a rocky outcrop with an extreme climate, on the lip of the Arctic Circle, had propelled itself into the mainstream. Not just as plucky underdogs either, but as a team that is competitive and grounded—much like Icelandic society—in collective spirit. During our four weeks in Iceland we visited numerous football clubs exploring the impact of the investment in facilities and coach education (Iceland has more UEFAqualified coaches per capita than anywhere else in the world), experienced Iceland’s group games firsthand in amongst the fans, and talked to the protagonists of the volcanic rise of Iceland’s football. Yet there is no formula to draw from all our investigation. No way of concluding why this team of players have overperformed. There is one thing for sure, though. This group of players has inspired an army of young footballers, who not only have access to arguably the best facilities in the world, but have also inherit collective spirit that has kept a society alive for centuries on one of the most inhospitable places on earth. The photo essay is part of Never, Ever, Have I Felt So Good—a book about the eruption of Icelandic football by Joseph Fox and Matt McGinn to be published in early 2019. neverevericeland.com

TEXT AND PHOTOS BY JOSEPH FOX.

54 / #MyStopover

Vopnafjörður, East Fjords. Some pitches in Iceland sit in amongst spectacular scenery.

Tómas Pálsson poses with his shirt signed by Hannes Þór Halldórsson. “Everyone wants to play in goal now after the save against Messi.”

Icelandair Stopover / 55

Players from UMF Einherji, a team from the East Fjords, try to focus pre-game. The Ungmennafélagið Leiknir team celebrates a win after a run of bad results.

Birgir Rafnsson and Guðmundur Ásgeirsson watch at home as Iceland go down 2-0 to Nigeria in their second group game.

56 / #MyStopover

Iceland fans in the Hljómskálagarður park watching the dying moments against Argentina.

On the craggy island of Heimaey in the Vestmannaeyjar archipelago, home of Iceland’s former head coach Heimir Hallgrímsson, sits one of the many purpose built “football houses,” designed so players can train all year round. An Iceland fan leads the “Viking Clap” in the northern town of Akureyri.

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Defender Glódís Perla Viggósdóttir celebrates her goal against the Czech Republic.

Regrouping after the match against Germany.

“WE WILL BE BACK!” Iceland may have missed out on the 2019 World Cup, but the future of women’s football is bright. One goal away from the World Cup dream. A penalty kick in the final minutes of the last qualifying game. The tension is palpable. Iceland’s fate in her hands, captain Sara Björk Gunnarsdóttir takes the shot and… Czech goalkeeper Barbora Votíková deflects the ball! The end score is 1-1 and Iceland’s World Cup dream is out—for now. Sara Björk expressed her disappointment on Instagram: “Today was hard, tomorrow will be better. Devastatingly close to achieving our goals … We failed. This time! … We will try again and be even more focused and better at the next qualifications. I, at least, am not satisfied and I know that the team wants more. There will unfortunately not be any World Cup next summer, but we will be

BY EYGLÓ SVALA ARNARSDÓTTIR. PHOTOS BY HAFLIÐI BREIÐFJÖRÐ.

58 / Football

ready and hungry for the next competition. We will be back!” The captain’s words speak volumes about the team’s ambitions. The 2019 FIFA World Cup in France was supposed to mark Iceland’s first appearance at the women’s World Cup. Iceland—which stood at 19th in the last FIFA ranking (while the men’s team ranked 32nd)—has never come so close to qualifying before but has already proved its worth by qualifying for three Euros in a row. In the qualifying match against Germany on September 1 (when Iceland lost 0-2), tickets sold out for the first time for a women’s football game. Wearing blue, white and red and roaring from the stands, Icelanders stood by their team all the way through. “To see a sold-out Laugardalsvöllur stadium for the first time is a dream come true,” says Klara Bjartmarz, managing director of KSÍ, the Icelandic Football Association.

Captain Sara Björk Gunnarsdóttir realizes Iceland’s World Cup dream is shattered.

In Iceland, about one third of football players are female, or 8,000 compared to 16,000 male practitioners. This is the highest ratio in Europe. Dropout is declining with more women playing professional football and increasing opportunities in Europe and the US. Worldwide, women’s football is on the rise. Klara attributes the interest to the recent success of the national teams. “After big tournaments we always see a surge in new practitioners.” Iceland’s world-class performance is the result of effective youth work, better educated trainers and better facilities. According to Klara, the future of women’s football is bright. “The quality of play is improving, along with improved administration and more income. The number of people watching, both at the pitch and on television, is increasing, and this development has come to stay.”

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A THOUSAND WORDS Thanks to Instagram, Facebook and Twitter, you can share your travel experience with the world. Check out this selection of recent images from our passengers who tagged their pictures with the #MyStopover tag. Pretty great, right? In upcoming issues, we will feature the best pics by users who include the #MyStopover tag. Happy snapping! Please note that by using the #MyStopover hashtag, you are granting us permission to use your image in our magazine or on our social media channels.

Join us

The winding roads of Iceland. I heatherstp I Heather St. Pierre

Just your average scenery in Iceland I paularosssi I Paula

On Friday I walked on a glacier in Iceland. On Sunday I sweated in sandals in Portland. I kweltner I Katie Weltner

Huh. Wonder who told them I was coming? Too bad they spelled Denny wrong I dennythesockmonkey I Sue Tremblay

Photo of a photo being taken.. photoception? I olafsdottir90 I Hjördís Ólafsdóttir

High-key hoping for cancelled flights again so I can spend 24 hours in Iceland I benrissler

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Pulcinelle a go go. I mannamignone I Anna Mignone

Arrivederci Islanda! I cate10_ita I Caterina Barbieri

Glymur, my favorite waterfall in the world, 650 feet high – worth the steep at times hike and fording the river! I gskuta I Glenn Skuta

Wooly babies! I kendalkirby I Kendal Kirby

The land of fire and ice, zo mooi! I mutsaersbram I Bram Mutsaers

I'm so happy some of the locals convinced us to spend more time in Mývatn, there are so many gorgeous places to hike. I merissa.cg I Merissa Gionet

Hverarönd or Hverir hot spring! I irvinze I Vincent Irvin Tan

Get in my belly!! I seoul_panda I Ashlee Phillips

40 degrés. I gregperquin27 I Grégory Perquin

Icelandair Stopover / 61

BY KATE ARMSTRONG. PHOTOS COURTESY OF WASHINGTON.ORG.

Columbia Heights.

OUR DESTINATIONS:

POWERING DC THE LOCAL WAY Columbia Heights.

If you’re imagining Washington DC as a conservative city, please recalibrate. Its neighborhoods are crammed with quirky bars, cool eateries and unusual things to do.

Washington DC is like a secretive great aunt whose conservative character is a mere front. Beyond the White House and the Smithsonian Institution’s museums and galleries (and I’m not saying they’re not fabulous), intriguing inner-city neighborhoods hide the city’s true side. Head to the neighboring inner-city ’hoods of Adams Morgan, Mount Pleasant and Columbia Heights for heaps of funky and community-focused fun: Ice cream shops, cheap eats, bars and uber-cool “retro” activities. Here are a few current hotspots (some of which have recently opened): Adams Morgan The hotel on everyone’s lips in this formerly grungy ’hood is the Line DC, located within a refurbished neoclassical church. The lobby even features a chandelier made from the church’s organ pipes. Of the complex’s three eateries, one of the best is A Rake’s Progress. Chef Spike Gjerde uses ingredients from the local Chesapeake region and crafts dishes at an open hearth. Splurge on the bone-in ribeye with blue cheese soufflé (for two; USD 150). Or make friends at Spoken English, a Tokyostyle tachinomiya; it’s a standing-only restaurant for 10. For a nightcap, roll into the neighboring casual bar, The Green Zone and sip on a Middle Eastern inspired cocktail from its rotating menu. Meat lovers: Don’t miss the quintessential American barbecue experience. Grab a picnic bench seat at the small, ultra-casual Federalist Pig; this crew smoke their own beef, pork and chicken. There’s a daily dish for vegetarians, too.

Icelandair flies to Washington DC daily, year-round. Traveling from Europe, you have the opportunity to add a Stopover in Iceland at no additional airfare.

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For fun? You can cut your own record at Songbyrd Record Café (why not?), a café-cum-record store and performance space with a public recording station and a

vintage Voice-O-Graph machine. If you’re so inclined, you can express your political views through an item from The Outrage, a shop selling banners, T-shirt, buttons, stickers dedicated to the political left and #resistance. (It was established originally as a pop-up shop for the Women’s March of 2017 and remained.) Mount Pleasant Join the line at the recently opened Mount Desert Island Ice Cream for unique American ice cream flavors such as “reverse root beer float” and “Girl Scouts.” Then head across the road to The Raven Grill, an all-out American dive bar that’s been around for so long (since 1935), it’s cool again. Think cheap beer, shots of bourbon, a killer jukebox and bathroom graffiti guaranteed to make you blush. Afterwards, grab one of only 30 chairs at the charming privately owned Suns Cinema, a film lover’s paradise. It screens nightly movies according to a monthly theme (don’t miss the Scalamandre zebra wallpaper). The owner even sells fresh popcorn, TV dinners, craft cocktails and USD 3 beers. Columbia Heights For fans of Mexican flavors, the no-frills Mezcalero Cocina Mexicana is the place for tequila and mezcal, with over 60 kinds of mezcal on the menu. Soak it up over a taco or three; there are 18 varieties on the menu. Next door, the Lyman’s Tavern has the largest assortment of pinball machines in the District. Save those quarters (25 cent coins) and test your skills at the classic American game. So, you’ve got the local picture? There’s plenty more. Don’t miss the city’s distilleries, emerging bean scene and fabulous multicultural haunts…

Mt. Pleasant. Photo by Ted Eytan.

Adams Morgan.

Icelandair Stopover / 63

OUR DESTINATIONS:

BEYOND THE PÉRIPHÉRIQUE Exploring the streets of “Grand Paris.”

BY BRANDON PRESSER. PHOTOS COURTESY OF THE PARIS TOURIST OFFICE.

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The crush of a seemingly eternal heatwave has finally subsided, and in Paris, autumn is the time for flaneurs. The throngs of summer visitors have returned home and the gentle breeze of seasons changing turns long walks into pastimes, the destination rarely important. The City of Light used to lure its idlers with elaborate galleries and stone cathedrals, but as experiencedriven trips continue to be the modus operandi for the modern-day traveler, it’s the boulevards—lined with the trademark Hausmannian architecture—that are seeing most of the action. Cozy neighborhood cafés, boutique digs, and personalized retail have cropped up in the Brooklynization—a byword for all things small batch—of a place that’s quickly shedding its reputation as a museum city intra muros, what the French call “within the walls.” That wall is the Périphérique, a ring road built around Paris’s 20 arrondissements during the 1970s that quite literally cemented the delineation of the central core and its banlieues—suburbs, a prevalent notion since medieval times—into the city’s collective

consciousness. It’s not quite a case of haves and havenots, but the municipalities on the other side of the wall offer that certain brand of “local” that hasn’t been given a touristic gloss. And as Paris bursts out of its concrete corset, it’s time to reconsider these neighborhoods further down the metro line not as day trips, as the guidebooks might suggest, but as the continuation of the Parisian metropolis worthy of an afternoon amble.

considerably more mixed than any actual Brooklyn comparison, and its spectrum of residents gather at remarkable design flourishes like the public pool Piscine Leclerc, an Art Deco relic, and the Centre Nationale de la Danse, a showcase for the nation’s best footwork housed in a Brutalist box. Famed gallerist Thaddeus Ropac opened an exhibition space for large-space works in the neighborhood as well, further changing the city’s artist gravity.

There’s St-Ouen, just north of Montmartre, which has long been a favored foray due to its puces—flea markets—overflowing with elegant vintage wares. And Vitry-sur-Seine, south of center, boasts the MAC/VAL, a creative space dedicated to contemporary arts across a panoply of media. But it’s Paris’s eastern suburbs of Pantin and Montreuil—where grey stone façades melt away into more varied architecture—that are shedding their unstable reputations and becoming region-wide beacons for creative types.

Wallpapered in graffiti, Montreuil and its nascent youth culture has begotten a handful of hangouts slinging micro-brews or serving up live music. Connect the dots between Deck & Donohue, which hosts tastings of their eponymous pale ale on weekends and abuts a rock-climbing wall; BEERS & Records which, as the name suggests, slings sip-able tipples with a generous side of vinyl; Le Chinois, a performance venue rebooted in a former Chinese restaurant; and La Station Services, a mixed-use concert hall and resto-bar also named after the former use of the space it inhabits; all proof that there’s plenty of savoir faire beyond the wall, but no one’s overthinking it.

At the crossroads of an industrial rail and the pedestrian-friendly Canal de l’Ourcq, Pantin’s population is

1 Canal de l’Ourcq. Photo by Sarah Sergent.

2 View of Montmartre and the suburbs from the dome of SacréCoeur. Photo by Sarah Sergent. 3 Paris rooftops. Photo by Amélie Dupont.

Icelandair flies to Paris daily, yearround. Traveling from North America, you have the opportunity to add a Stopover in Iceland at no additional airfare.

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STOPOVER ICELAND:

BY SARAH DEARNE.

OUR TOP PICKS

With so much you can pack into an Icelandair Stopover, the options can feel overwhelming. So, we keep it simple: Four new themes and four fresh suggestions every issue. Take your pick.

The Yule Lads near their home in Dimmuborgir. Photo courtesy of Visit Mývatn.

INSPIRATION: PHOTOGRAPHY Whether you’re a pro photographer or an avid Instagrammer—or both—winter is the time to capture Iceland at its moody best. It’s all about the light. On clear days, the sun hovers close to the horizon, creating an extended golden hour, and when it’s overcast, sullen clouds bring cinematic drama. Then as darkness falls, it’s time to set out in search of glowing northern lights. To make the most of your time, you may wish to book a guided photography tour. Ranging from day trips to multi-day workshops, these are a handy way to get to exquisite locations while receiving professional input on how to capture Iceland’s unique conditions. And if you want to seriously elevate your craft, you might also consider a “flightseeing” plane or helicopter tour, which allows you to shoot from a bird’s-eye perspective. Of course, photographing the Icelandic winter can present some challenges, so it’s wise to be prepared. Waterproof both your camera and yourself, and if you don’t already own a sturdy tripod, now might be the time to invest—the Icelandic wind packs a punch. And as always in Iceland, stay mindful of your surroundings to keep yourself and others safe.

Icelandic horses posing in their shaggy winter coats. Photo by Charl van Rooy.

CULTURE: CHRISTMAS Christmas is an intriguing time in Iceland, and it’s well worth exploring some of the quirky local traditions. For example, we have a grand total of 13 “Santas,” better known as Yule Lads. You can meet them at their home in Dimmuborgir, North Iceland, daily from December 1 to 24, and also every morning at the National Museum in Reykjavík from December 12 to 23. While you’re there, be sure to check out the delightful Christmas exhibition. Sampling some yuletide delicacies is also a must. Book a restaurant buffet for traditional fare such as lamb, ptarmigan and reindeer (sorry, Rudolph), or if you’re dining on a budget, hit up supermarkets for laufabrauð, delicate fried dough cut into snowflake-like patterns; and Malt and Appelsín soda, which you mix together for a sugary holiday drink. (Pour the Appelsín in first to avoid a frothy mess.) Christmas concerts are hugely popular in Iceland, with various musicians putting their own spin on the genre. This year’s highlights include the Iceland Symphony Orchestra and Faroese national treasure, Eivør, both playing holiday-themed concerts at Harpa Concert Hall. There are also festive concerts playing all around the country, so scope out events guides and take your pick.

66 / Stopover Iceland

COZY: THE GREAT INDOORS Icelanders will tell you there’s no such thing as bad weather, only bad clothing. Sometimes though, sideways sleet is best enjoyed from the warm side of the window. If you’re looking for warm fuzzies in the capital, try Kattakaffihúsið, a recently-opened cat café that hosts adoptable felines. While you may have trouble getting one home through customs, there’s no harm in stopping by for a chin-scratch with your coffee and cake. You can then swap fur for fleece at one of Iceland’s numerous yarn shops. Some host regular crafting meet-ups, so drop in to pick up some lopi knitting tips. Wool worshippers should also make the pilgrimage to Mosfellsbær, hometown of the Ístex yarn factory and Álafoss wool store and café.

Gaukur, one of Kattakaffihúsið’s four feline tenants. Photo by Íris Ann Sigurðardóttir.

For a cultural experience with a roof overhead, proceed the nearest cinema. No, not to see the latest Hollywood blockbuster— you can do that anywhere—go see an Icelandic film (subtitled, of course). Bíó Paradís is the place to go for Icelandic films in downtown Reykjavík, and you’ll also find theaters in larger towns around the country.

ADVENTURE: SNOWMOBILING For a heart-thumping romp across the winter landscape, get yourself on a snowmobile. Besides the obvious thrill factor, this travel method offers two distinct advantages: It gives you access to terrain too tricky to explore by foot or car, and high speeds allow you to cover a lot of landscape in a short space of time. Iceland’s numerous glaciers are the most popular places for snowmobile touring, particularly Mýrdalsjökull, Vatnajökull and Langjökull. You can also explore some excellent mountain trails, for example in the magnificent Tröllaskagi (“Troll

Peninsula”) ski area in North Iceland. Most tours run during the daylight hours, but if you schedule your tour for a clear evening you might be lucky enough to catch the aurora dancing overhead. You’ll need to hold a valid international driver’s license to operate a snowmobile, though children aged around 8 and up can generally ride as passengers. Tours will provide a helmet and windproof overalls, but be sure to dress in snug layers and good winter boots to stay toasty on your tour.

On a private tour of Langjökull glacier. Photo courtesy of Activity Iceland / activityiceland.is.

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CHILDREN’S CORNER:

AN ADVENTURE AT LAKE MÝVATN The Icelandic animals from Treasure Iceland are best buddies. One of the things they love most is traveling to new places in Iceland. This time, Mosi the ram is taking them to his home at Lake Mývatn.

The Yule Lads are 13 troublesome brothers, visiting on the 13 nights before Christmas to wreak havoc in Icelandic homes and leave presents behind for children. The Yule Lads have hidden all over the Icelandair Stopover magazine. Can you find them all?

68 / Kids’ Entertainment

Mosi the ram was excited and just couldn’t stop talking. “And don’t forget your woolens. The winter arrives even earlier up North,” he reminded his friends for the umpteenth time that day. “We’ll certainly try not to forget you!” Flóki the raven said, teasingly. Everyone laughed. They were really looking forward to their winter trip to Mývatn, one of the most beautiful places in Iceland. On the way up North, Mosi was brimming with information about his home region. “Lake Mývatn is famous for its rich birdlife. One of the reasons they all love it there is that there are so many flies for them to eat. In fact, the lake takes its name from the flies— Lake of the Midges.” “Well, I’m happy it’s winter now,” Freyja said. “I don’t like flies.” “Most of them don’t bite anyway,” Mosi said, reassuringly. When the friends arrived at Mývatn, they noticed right away how special the landscape was. “This is called a pseudo crater,” Mosi told them as he proudly positioned himself on top of a special-looking hill. “They are formed when hot lava flows over watery ground and creates steam explosions.” “Wow!” said Katla. “I’d love to see that.” “You’re more than 2,000 years too late for that,” said a laughing voice behind them. They all turned around to see a fuzzy and friendly green figure standing behind them. “Let me introduce myself. I’m Loftur, one of the local lake balls.” Lake balls? The friends looked baffled. Mosi explained to them that lake balls were extremely rare algae growing in the lake. “That’s right,” said

BY SIGRÍÐUR ÁSTA ÁRNADÓTTIR. ILLUSTRATIONS BY KIDZINFLIGHT AND ALFREÐ I. A. PÉTURSSON.

Loftur. “Welcome to Mývatn. In fact, I’m on my way to make delicious geothermal bread. Care to tag along?” Katla lightened up. “I’ve heard of those. You bake them in the warm ground next to a hot spring!” The friends eagerly followed their new friend Loftur to a hot spring area, where he discovered that he’d forgotten to bring a spade. “I’ll dig the hole!” Skotta barked enthusiastically and went right to work. Soon the dough, placed inside an empty milk carton, was snugly in the ground and everyone was looking forward to trying a warm slice the next day. “Please watch your step,” Loftur advised. “The ground can be very dangerous in the geothermal areas.” “What was that?” Flóki said suddenly. He’d spotted a scruffy-looking fellow scuttling through a black lava field nearby. “It appears the Yule Lads are out and about,” said Mosi. He then told them about the 13 mischievous brothers that come down from the mountains every year before Christmas to play pranks, steal food and leave little presents in the shoes of Icelandic kids. “They like to hang around the Dimmuborgir lava field, the teasers,” Loki added. It was time for the gang to retire after a very special day at Mývatn. They said goodbye to Loftur and headed home to bed, hoping the Yule Lads might leave them a little something during the night. If you want to play with the animals of Treasure Island, check out our on-board kids’ material. If you didn’t get it already, just ask the friendly flight attendant.

Icelandair Stopover / 69

WE MAKE A POINT OF REWARDING CUSTOMERS FOR LOYALTY Did you know that members of Icelandair Saga Club earn Saga Points for all Icelandair flights, for their purchases on board and with our partners around the world? These little points pack a lot of punch.

Joining is easyâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;you can use our onboard Wi-Fi on your mobile device or computer and join right now. It is free to visit icelandair.com.

+ icelandair.com

By joining Icelandair Saga Club you can: Book flights with your Saga Points. Book flights with Saga Points partly or for the whole airfare

Buy products and refreshments on board with your Points

Acquire Saga Silver or Saga Gold status with increased benefits by flying regularly with Icelandair

Earn Saga Points through Booking.com and Rentalcars.com

Upgrade with Points and enjoy your next flight in a better seat

Use your Saga Points at Hotels.com

COMPILED BY EYGLÓ SVALA ARNARSDÓTTIR.

ICELANDAIR @WORK

Recruiting football fans, spreading Icelandic culture, providing dream vacations and working towards gender equality… Icelandair is on the ball!

TASTE OF ICELAND ON TOUR The Taste of Iceland culture festival, held by Promote Iceland and supported by Icelandair, has been touring North America this year with a range of events highlighting Icelandic food, design, films and more. Having previously visited Boston, Chicago, New York City and Philadelphia, Taste of Iceland is now en-route to Seattle—with events scheduled October 11-14—and Toronto, Canada, where festivities will take place November 8-11. Events in these two cities include concerts, film screenings and cooking classes. For more information, go to icelandnaturally.com.

Doing the Viking clap while sailing to Viðey. Photo by Hörður Ásbjörnsson.

TEAM ICELAND WRAP-UP Icelandair and Promote Iceland’s Team Iceland campaign kicked off 100 days prior to Iceland’s debut game at the 2018 World Cup in Russia, against Argentina on June 16. In a video, President of Iceland Guðni Th. Jóhannesson and First Lady Eliza Reid demonstrated their football “skills” inside the presidential residence while inviting the world to join #TeamIceland. The world took notice, and at kickoff almost 50,000 people from 191 countries had signed up. The invite film has now been viewed over 3.6 million times.

MIGHTY OAKS FROM LITTLE ACORNS GROW Since Icelandair established its Special Children Travel Fund 15 years ago, 625 families of children who are chronically ill or live under difficult circumstances have been able to go on their dream vacation—thanks to the generous donations of passengers. Twice annually, the fund’s board selects recipients from a large pool of applicants, and in April 2018 the fund made its 30th donation. For the occasion, Icelandair made a video telling the story of three children who visited Orlando with the fund’s help. You can watch it on the in-flight entertainment system from October 27.

CLOSING THE PAY GAP October 24 marks the anniversary of the Women’s Strike in Iceland, where in 1975 women marched the streets in protest of wage discrepancy. Since then, there have been many positive developments towards gender equality in Iceland, but there is still a pay gap. Icelandair is one of the companies working towards the new Equal Pay Certification initiative introduced by the Icelandic government (Iceland is the first country to legislate on this) by implementing the quality standard ÍST 85/2012, which will ensure that wages are always determined by relevant criteria and do not include gender-based discrimination.

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But that’s not all. From May 8 to June 25, Icelandair passengers were invited to sign up for 90-minute experiences, ranging from hiking Mt. Esja to soaking in Laugarvatn Fontana, and playing golf under the midnight sun. Young footballers were given private lessons and die-hard fans the chance to meet some of the teams’ key players and trainers. The highlight was the fantastic feast cooked up by Iceland’s national culinary team on Viðey island following the public screening of Iceland vs. Argentina. Overall, the campaign was a huge success, with 72 passengers taking part in these events. Thank you all, we had a ball!

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ANCHORAGE

HELSINKI VANCOUVER SEATTLE

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74 / Route Map and Fleet

ORLANDO

THE NAMES OF OUR AIRCRAFT

Each of our aircraft is named after an Icelandic volcano, glacier or other natural wonder. Passengers boarding the plane can see a sign with an illustration of the natural wonder in question, explaining its name and giving some basic information about it. BLÁFJALL | TF-FIK | BLAU-fyatl | A table mountain in North Iceland. From its flat top it offers climbers an astounding view over one of the most beautiful creations of Mother Nature, Lake Mývatn.

JÖKULSÁRLÓN* | TF-ICE | YUH-kuls-aur-loan | Jökulsárlón is a picturesque glacial lagoon in southeast Iceland. Floating on its blue surface are magnificent icebergs from Vatnajökull, the largest glacier in Europe.

DYNGJUFJÖLL | TF-ISS | DEENG-iu-fiudl | Volcanic highland massif in North Iceland. The famous Askja caldera, a popular tourist destination, is situated in Dyngjufjöll.

KATLA | TF-FIV | KAT-la | Volcano beneath the ice sheet of the South Iceland glacier Mýrdalsjökull. The last eruption of Katla was in 1918.

DYRHÓLAEY* | TF-ICU | DIHR-hoal-a-ay | This picturesque 120-m-high promontory on the south coast of Iceland sports a hole large enough for ships to sail through on a calm day. Its name translates to “door hill island.”

KEILIR | TF-ISJ | KAY-leer | Cone-shaped volcano that was created subglacially and is located on the Reykjanes Peninsula to the south of Reykjavík, from where it can be viewed as a well-known landmark. It rises to 1,243 ft (379 m) and consists primarily of hyaloclastite and pillow lavas.

EIRÍKSJÖKULL | TF-ISZ | AY-reeks-yuh-kutl | According to legend, an outlaw named Eiríkur escaped from his pursuers by cartwheeling to the top of the highest mountain in West Iceland. This volcano, formed by subglacial activity, was later named in his honor.

KETILDYNGJA | TF-ISR | KETTIL-deengja | This is a shield volcano southeast of the famous Lake Mývatn, formed as a result of an eruption in Ketildyngja about 3,800 years ago.

ELDBORG | TF-FIN | ELD-borg | The name of an extinct volcanic crater in the west of Iceland, one of the country’s most beautifully formed. ELDFELL | TF-ISK | ELD-fetl | On Heimaey, one of the Westman I slands, is a volcanic cone formed during a surprise 1973 eruption not far from the centre of one of the most important fishing villages in Iceland. No one was hurt. ELDGJÁ | TF-ISP | ELD-giau | The largest volcanic fissure in the world, 25 mi (40 km) long. Into it plunges the spectacular Ófærufoss waterfall, which until 1993 had a natural stone bridge extending over it. The bridge broke in a glacial flood. EYJAFJALLAJÖKULL | TF-FII | AY-ya-fyat-la-yuh-kutl (good luck!) | A relatively small ice cap in South Iceland, just west of the much larger Mýrdalsjökull glacier. Eyjafjallajökull covers the caldera of a volcano with a summit elevation of 5,466 ft (1,666 m). The most recent eruption in Eyjafjallajökull was in April 2010. GRÁBRÓK | TF-ISV | GRAU-broke | A crater that was formed in a fissure eruption in West Iceland less than 3,000 years ago. Children love running up to the top of this friendly volcano, which stands just a few meters from the road. GRÍMSVÖTN | TF-FIS | GREEMZ-vutn | A volcano and a series of subglacial lakes in southeast Iceland on the Vatnajökull glacier. Grímsvötn has one of the highest eruption frequencies in Iceland; the last was in May 2011. GULLBORG | TF-ISW | GUTL-borg | Means the “golden fortress” and refers to the beautiful regular round shape of this extinct crater in West Iceland. HEKLA AURORA | TF-FIU | HEK-la au-RO-ra | Iceland’s most famous volcano, which last erupted in 2000. The aircraft was renamed Hekla Aurora in 2014 and repainted in northern lights livery for our #MyStopover campaign.

KRAFLA | TF-FIO | KRAB-la | Caldera about 6 mi (10 km) in diameter and is in a 56-mi (90-km) fissure zone, in the north of Iceland in the Mývatn region. Krafla’s highest peak reaches 818 m. There have been 29 reported eruptions in recorded history, the last of which occurred between 1975 and 1984. LAKI | TF-ISF | LAH-kih | Laki is the name of a volcanic fissure and mountain in southern Iceland. The largest lava eruption in recorded history began here on June 8, 1783. LÁTRABJARG* | TF-ICY | LAU-tra-byarg | Látrabjarg is the westernmost point in Iceland and is Europe’s largest bird cliff. This 14-km-long and 440-m-high cape is home to millions of birds, including puffins and razorbills. MAGNI | TF-FIC | MAG-nih | Name of one of the two craters that were tailormade for tourists in the first stage of the Eyjafjallajökull eruption in March 2010. SKJALDBREIÐUR | TF-LLX | SKYALD-bray-ther | An extinct shield volcano in the vicinity of Þingvellir, the South Iceland site of the old Icelandic parliament, or Alþingi. Skjaldbreiður is estimated to be around 9,000 years old. SNÆFELL | TF-FIP | SNEYE-fetl | Snæfell, an extinct volcano northeast of Vatnajökull glacier. It has been dormant for at least 10,000 years. SNÆFELLSJÖKULL | TF-ISD | SNEYE-fetls-yuh-kutl | Extinct stratovolcano in western Iceland. The entrance to the centre of the Earth is to be found at its top. Some even believe it is a landing site for extraterrestrials. SURTSEY | TF-FIJ | SEURT-say | Off the coast of South Iceland, a young island that grew up from the ocean floor during a volcanic eruption in 1963. SVÖRTUBORGIR | TF-ISN | SWUR-tuh-boregear | A row of volcanic craters west of Námafjall near Lake Myvatn. This cone row was created in an eruption 2000 years ago.

HELGAFELL | TF-FIT | HEL-gah-fetl | A dormant cone volcano on the outskirts of an important fishing town in the Westman Islands. Its neighbor, Eldfell, was formed in an eruption in 1973.

TORFAJÖKULL | TF-ISY | TOR-va-yuh-kutl | Is in the Highlands of South Iceland and is named after Torfi, an Icelandic historical figure. During the plague in 1493, he is said to have found shelter there with his family.

HENGILL | TF-FIX | HEN-gitl | Volcanic system not far from Reykjavík. The most recent eruption has been radiocarbon dated to about 1,900 years ago. Hellisheiði Geothermal Plant is situated at Hengill. The estimated production capacity for the completed Hellisheiði plant is 300 MW of electricity and 400 MW of thermal energy.

VATNAJÖKULL | TF-FIR | VAT-na-yuh-kutl | Europe’s largest glacier, covering 8% of Iceland’s surface. Six volcanoes lie underneath it, including Bárðarbunga, which caused the Holuhraun eruption in 2014–2015.

HERÐUBREIÐ | TF-FIA | HARE-theu-braith | An extinct volcano in the Highlands of North Iceland. It is a tuya, a volcano formed under a glacier. Many Icelanders consider Herðubreið to be the most beautiful mountain in Iceland. HLÖÐUFELL | TF-ISO | HLEU-thu-fetl | This a tuya volcano 6 mi (10 km) southwest of Langjökull glacier. Hlöðufell was formed when lava erupted through a thick ice sheet that covered all of Iceland during the Pleistocene epoch.

ÞINGVELLIR | TF-ISX | THING-vet-leer | The Þingvellir plains are a spectacular rift valley in southwest Iceland created by two tectonic plates drifting apart—one of the few places in the world where this can be observed on dry land. There the Alþingi, one of the world’s oldest parliaments, was founded in 930 AD. ÖRÆFAJÖKULL | TF-ISL | EU-rye-va-yuh-kutl | The largest active volcano in Iceland, and on its northwestern side is Hvannadalshnjúkur, the highest peak in the country. It has not erupted since the 18th century.

* Wi-Fi is not currently available on Jökulsárlón, Dyrhólaey or Látrabjarg as a new system is being installed. This new state-of-the-art Wi-Fi system will be implemented across all of Icelandair’s fleet in the coming months.

Icelandair Stopover / 75

WE ARE ADDING TO OUR FLEET IN 2018 & 2019

These new aircraft will further enhance our passengers’ travel experience. We are especially proud of this year’s addition: Our first Boeing 737 MAX 8s, a brand-new Boeing design that features both much quieter engines and a completely redesigned cabin space for extra comfort. BOEING 737 MAX 8 Number of passenger seats: 160 Seating arrangement: 3-3 in Economy Light, Economy Standard and Economy Flex and 2-2 in Saga Premium and Saga Premium Flex Length: 129 ft 6 in / 39.5 m Wingspan: 117 ft 10 in / 35.9 m Cruising speed: Mach 0.79 / 453 kn / 521 mph / 839 km/h Maximum range: 3,515 NM / 4,045 mi / 6,510 km Maximum takeoff weight: 181,200 lb / 82,200 kg Engines: 2 x CFM International LEAP-1B

BOEING 757-300 Number of passenger seats: 225 Seating arrangement: 3-3 in Economy Light, Economy Standard and Economy Flex, and 2-2 in Saga Premium and Saga Premium Flex Length: 178 ft 7 in / 54.5 m Wingspan: 134 ft 7 in / 41.0 m Cruising speed: Mach 0.80 / 461 kn / 531 mph / 854 km/h Maximum range: 3,200 NM / 3,682 mi / 5,926 km Maximum takeoff weight: 273,000 lb / 123,800 kg Engines: 2 x Rolls-Royce RB211-535E4-B

BOEING 757-200 Number of passenger seats: 183 Seating arrangement: 3-3 in Economy Light, Economy Standard and Economy Flex, and 2-2 in Saga Premium and Saga Premium Flex Length: 155 ft 3 in / 47.3 m Wingspan: 134 ft 7 in / 41.0 m Cruising speed: Mach 0.80 / 461 kn / 531 mph / 854 km/h Maximum range: 3,915 NM / 4,505 mi / 7,250 km Maximum takeoff weight: 250,000 lb / 113,400 kg Engines: 2 x Rolls-Royce RB211-535E4 Maximum range based on full passenger load

BOEING 767-300 Number of passenger seats: 262 Seating arrangement: 2-3-2 in Economy Light, Economy Standard and Economy Flex, and 2-1-2 in Saga Premium and Saga Premium Flex Length: 180 ft 3 in / 54.9 m Wingspan: 166 ft 11 in / 50.9 m Cruising speed: Mach 0.80 / 461 kn / 531 mph / 854 km/h Maximum range: 5,988 NM / 6,890 mi / 11,090 km Maximum takeoff weight: 412,000 lb / 186,900 kg Engines: 2 x General Electric CF6-80C2B6F

76 / Our Fleet

LET ICELANDAIR SAGA CLUB WORK FOR YOU WHILE YOU TRAVEL n n n n

Earn Saga Points on all hotel bookings Save up to 50% on your booking 24/7 support Book now, pay later

hotels.icelandair.com

ENJOY THE BEST PRICES ON YOUR CAR RENTAL n n

Earn 2 Saga Points for every rental Free cancellations and amendments

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OUR IN-FLIGHT ENTERTAINMENT Dear Passenger, On this flight you have access to a personal in-flight entertainment system, and these pages offer a sneak peek into our selection. Since we always aim to offer interesting and relevant material on board our flights, we update our selection regularly. Have a browse through the content on the screen in front of you to see everything we offer this time around.

NEW

The selection is quite varied, and we try to offer the latest Hollywood blockbusters of the season. We’ve also dedicated a category to All-Time Classics, where some of the carefully selected films are available for a whole year, allowing you to revisit some of your favorites each time you fly with us.

AUDIO BOOKS

Language: Icelandic and/or English

Bieber og Botnrassa Children, Young Adult I 5:48 hr.

Eyland Fiction I 5:38 hr.

Hetjurnar á HM Documentary I 2:00 hr.

Náttblinda Crime I 7:17 hr.

In an attempt to fix his financial problems, Erik recruits his brother, Atli, to help import cocaine to Iceland with the help of a young Polish mule. Erik has it all carefully thought out, until the mule is unable to pass the drugs. I R I 91 min.

TV PROGRAMS

Language: English (with Icelandic subtitles)

Atlanta s1 e1–10 I R I Comedy / Drama 30 min.

Narcos s1 e1–5 I R I Crime / Drama I 49 min.

Big Little Lies s1 e1–7 I R I Crime / Drama I 60 min.

Friends s8 e16–19 I PG-13 I Comedy I 22 min.

Ready Player One PG-13 I Action / Adventure I 140 min.

Game Night R I Comedy I 100 min.

HOLLYWOOD BLOCKBUSTERS Language: English (with Icelandic subtitles)

Tag R I Comedy / Drama / Action I 100 min.

78 / In-Flight Entertainment

Deadpool 2 R I Action / Adventure I 119 min.

SHORTS & DOCS

RECOMMENDED WHEN VISITING ICELAND

Language: Icelandic (with English subtitles) S

'T MIS ON THIS ICELANDIC DOCUMENTARY

Did you forget your headphones? We sell quality headphones that you can use on this flight and anywhere else.

Undir yfirborðinu / Under the Surface G I Documentary I 62 min.

SHORTS & DOCS

Language: Icelandic (with English subtitles)

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Unique Iceland I A holiday destination of extremes. An entertaining and informative series about Iceland, both city and country, so you can feel prepared for your stopover.

Söngur Kanemu / Kanema's Song G I Documentary 73 min.

Síðasta áminningin / Last Call G I Documentary 62 min.

'T MIS ON THIS ICELANDIC DOCUMENTARY

Frelsun / Salvation R I Short Film 24 min.

'T MIS ON THIS ICELANDIC SHORT FILM

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ICELANDIC TV PROGRAMS

ICELANDIC FILMS

Language: Icelandic (with English subtitles)

Andið eðlilega / And Breathe Normally G I Drama I 102 min.

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Fangar / Prisoners s1 e1–6 I PG-13 I Drama / Detective 43 min.

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Vargur / Vulture R I Drama / Thriller I 91 min.

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Pressa II / The Press II s2 e1–6 I R I Drama / Thriller I 47 min.

CHILDREN’S PROGRAMS Language: Icelandic/English

Teenage Mutant Ninja Turtles Paw Patrol Pablo, the Little Red Fox 4 ep. I G I Adventure / Action I 30 min. 4 ep. I G I Adventure / Action / Animation 4 ep. I G I Animation I 30 min. 30 min. Please note that you have many more audio books, films and TV programs to choose from on the in-flight entertainment system. The films and TV programs listed here are only a small selection. Ratings are provided according to the US system but may vary from country to country.

Louie 4 ep. I G I AnimationI 30 min.

Icelandair Stopover / 79

CLASSES OF SERVICE Icelandair offers a range of on-board services available to all passengers. We are the first European airline to offer gate-to-gate Wi-Fi, which means that you can stay online from the moment you board until you leave the aircraft, free from interruptions during boarding, takeoff and landing. For our youngest flyers, we have a selection of children’s entertainment and games available on the in-flight entertainment system. Children also receive a box with a meal and juice and are provided with headphones and an activity bag. Passengers can check in quickly and easily with our online check-in service. You can use your smart device to check in even faster. It is possible to check in 36 hours before departure to Europe and Canada and 24 hours before departure to North America.

Icelandair caters to a range of tastes and budgets with a selection of five classes: Economy Light, Economy Standard, Economy Flex, Saga Premium and Saga Premium Flex. Economy Light offers quality at a reduced price with a baggage allowance of hand luggage only, ideal for short-haul trips. Economy Standard includes both hand luggage and one checked-in bag, and Economy Flex additionally includes priority boarding and free Wi-Fi. For an indulgent experience in an exclusive, quiet cabin at the front of the aircraft, choose Saga Premium. With four-abreast wide seating and plenty of legroom, you’ll have ample space to work or simply stretch out and rest up for your destination. Saga Premium Flex additionally offers an unlimited stopover in Iceland and the flexibility to refund.

For detailed information about what each class has to offer, see the table below.

ECONOMY LIGHT

ECONOMY STANDARD ECONOMY FLEX

Priority check-in

No No Yes, where applicable

SAGA PREMIUM

SAGA PREMIUM FLEX Yes, where applicable

Lounge access

Yes, where applicable

Priority boarding

Yes, where applicable

Seating 737, 757

3-3

2-2

Seating 767

2-3-2

2-1-2

Luggage allowance

No checked luggage

1x50 lb (23 kg)

2x70 lb (32 kg)

Carry-on luggage

1x22 lb (10 kg)

2x22 lb (10 kg)

Legroom

31–32" / 79–81 cm

40" / 101 cm

In-flight entertainment

Yes

Wi-Fi

For a small fee

Included for 2 devices

Headphones

For sale

Yes, noise-canceling

Blankets and pillows

Upon request

Yes

Universal electric outlet No

Yes

USB port

Yes Yes Yes Yes

Yes

Non-alcoholic beverages Included

Included

Alcoholic beverages

For sale

Included

For sale

Meals

For sale

Included, special menu

Travel kit

On N-American routes

Hot towels

Yes

Pre-flight drink

On N-American routes

Stopover

For up to 3 nights

For up to 7 nights

Unlimited

Change fees

$300 Fare difference may apply*

$150 Fare difference may apply*

None, but fare difference is applicable

From $150 None, but fare difference Fare difference may apply* is applicable**

Refundability Non-refundable Non-refundable Refundable

Non-refundable Refundable

Combinability between Combines classes solely with Economy Light

Combines with Saga Premium

Combines with Saga Premium Flex

Combines with Economy Standard

Combines with Economy Flex

Saga Points earned 50%

100%

150%

200%

300%

*Subject to currency changes

80 / Services On Board

**Additionally: A free shift of flight time up to +/– 24 hours if booked within 48 hours of the original departure time. Valid on Icelandair flights only.

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PASSENGER GUIDE

PORTABLE ELECTRONIC DEVICES Always permitted

Permitted at gate and above 10,000 feet*

Power outlets are located in all seats on Saga Premium and Saga Premium Flex. USB outlets provide power to charge small personal electronic devices, such as mobile phones, cameras or iPods.

Aircraft B757-200 I Aircraft B757-300 Hearing Aid

Pacemaker

DVD Player

Plug

Laptop / Tablet

Rows 1–14

USB

All rows

NOTE: PEDs must be disconnected from any in-seat electrical power supply during taxiing, t akeoff, approach, landing and during abnormal or emergency conditions.

NOTE: *Larger PEDs (more than 1 kg) such as laptops must be securely stowed in overhead compartments or under the seat before takeoff and landing.

Always permitted*

Tablet

E-reader

Smartphone (in-flight mode)

Camera (digital, film, video)

NoiseCanceling Headphones (power ON)

CD Player

Media Player

Handheld Game

WHAT ELECTRONIC DEVICES CAN I USE ON BOARD THE AIRCRAFT? Handheld devices with flight mode Handheld devices, such as tablets, e-readers and mobile phones, may be used during all phases of the flight, provided that flight mode is enabled before departure. Devices must be safely secured in the customer’s hand or pocket during taxi, takeoff and landing. Devices without flight mode Any device that transmits or receives radio signals but does not have flight mode must be switched off for the duration of the flight. Laptops and other larger devices These devices may be used during boarding but not for taxi, takeoff and landing. They may be used in-flight. They shall be stowed away safely during taxi, takeoff and landing. Other devices without connectivity This includes items such as DVD players, electronic games and music players. Only small, handheld devices may be used during taxi, takeoff and landing. Larger devices must be switched off and stowed away safely during takeoff and landing.

82 / Devices and Wi-Fi

NOTE: *Small lightweight Portable Electronic Devices, or PEDs – 1 kg or less (iPhone, iPad, iPad mini, Samsung Galaxy phones & tablets, Nokia, Microsoft Surface, Kindle e-reader, digital cameras etc.) are permitted as long as they are secured during takeoff and landing. Passengers must either hold their PED or securely place it in the seat pocket. Lightweight PEDs may not be unsecured on the seat beside them. PED cords or accessories are not to impede emergency egress. We ask passengers to remove their headphones and pay attention to the safety briefing.

Are there times when I can’t use my handheld devices? Flight or cabin crew may ask you at any time to switch off all electronic devices should interference be detected. Can I connect to Wi-Fi (if provided in-flight) even if flight mode is enabled? Yes. Cellular services must be turned off (flight mode) at all times, but other wireless services such as Wi-Fi may be used above 10,000 ft if a connection service is installed in the aircraft. It is possible to re-enable Wi-Fi and connect to a Wi-Fi network while flight mode is enabled. A peaceful cabin for everyone To keep the cabin peaceful please use headphones when listening to music or other material and place computer games and such on silent or very low volume. Precaution If your mobile phone or tablet gets caught in the seat, please inform the cabin crew and they will assist you. If a battery operated device overheats during the flight, inform the cabin crew immediately.

WIRELESS INTERNET ON BOARD SEE OUR WI-FI PORTAL FOR PRICING INFORMATION How do I connect to the Wi-Fi network? 1. Make sure your mobile device is set to flight mode during all phases of flight. Then activate Wi-Fi on your device. 2. Choose the “Icelandair Internet Access” network. 3. Open your browser of choice and then press “Get Wi-Fi” if using a laptop. On your phone, choose either the “Wi-Fi” or “Complimentary” option. What you can expect The connection speed is similar to 3G. Keep in mind that the on-board Wi-Fi is therefore not as fast as home connections. The number of users can affect the speed of the connection. Wi-Fi is available from the moment you board and until you leave the aircraft. A new state-of-the-art Wi-Fi system will be imple mented across all of Icelandair’s fleet in the coming months.

HELSINKI VANCOUVER

Do I need to set my smartphone or tablet to flight mode? All smartphones and tablets may be switched on at all times, but in flight mode only. You might have to activate Wi-Fi separately when your device is set to flight mode. Your device must be safely secured in your hand or pocket during taxi, takeoff and landing. You can stay connected throughout your flight – from the moment you board and until you disembark. What kind of device can I use? You can use a laptop, a tablet or a smartphone to connect. The connection will be activated on the same device you use to purchase or validate Internet access. When can I start using the Wi-Fi access? You will be able to connect as soon as you want, and the connection will be active throughout your flight.

ANCHORAGE

SEATTLE

What can I do when connected? n You can check your email. n You can browse the web. n You can use social media and other communication platforms.

STOCKHOLM EDMONTON

OSLO GOTHENBURG BERGEN COPENHAGEN

PORTLAND

SAN FRANCISCO ICELAND

BILLUND BERLIN HAMBURG FRANKFURT MUNICH AMSTERDAM GLASGOW BRUSSELS ZURICH MANCHESTER MILAN DUBLIN LONDON PARIS GENEVA HEATHROW & GATWICK ORLY & CDG

DENVER MINNEAPOLIS / ST. PAUL

Now Icelandair Saga Club members can use their Saga Points to pay for Wi-Fi access. For more details, see the pricing information in our Wi-Fi portal. If you are having trouble connecting, please send an email to wifi@icelandair.is the next time you are connected to the Internet. More questions can be found in the Wi-Fi portal.

MADRID CHICAGO TORONTO KANSAS CITY CLEVELAND DALLAS

MONTREAL

BALTIMORE HALIFAX BOSTON WASHINGTON D.C. PHILADELPHIA NEW YORK

Icelandair Saga Gold members and booked Saga Premium passengers get complimentary Wi-Fi access for two devices.

JFK & NEWARK

TAMPA BAY

ORLANDO

The pink color indicates network coverage on Icelandair routes.

Icelandair Stopover / 83

SAFETY FIRST Iceland’s vast nature is spectacular, unique—and unpredictable. Sunny and calm periods can transform into windstorms, blizzards and plummeting temperatures in a matter of hours. If you are planning to travel to a more isolated area, please leave a copy of your itinerary with the Icelandic Association for Search and Rescue at safetravel.is, and, for all excursions, observe these tips: DRIVING n When driving, keep your full attention on the road, especially on areas where tarmac turns to gravel. Blind hills should be approached with caution. It is illegal to operate a vehicle after consuming alcohol.

KNOW YOUR EMERGENCY NUMBER ICELAND / EUROPE �� 112 USA AND CANADA �� 911 UK �� 999 / 112 icesar.com Emergency calls are free to make from mobile phones. If you’re on the other side of the Atlantic, or in Iceland from North America, don’t forget to check on arrival if yours is working. Some phones operate on a different bandwidth and will not work in foreign countries.

On single-lane bridges, the car closer to the bridge has the right of way, but it is always wise to stop and assess the situation.

ICELANDIC SEARCH AND RESCUE:

Only take Highland roads if you have a 4x4 jeep, and make sure you have the experience necessary to operate these vehicles in tough conditions.

Roads can be quite slippery during winter, especially after frost in the early morning. All Highland roads are closed during winter.

OUR COUNTRY’S BRAVE VOLUNTEERS

Off-road driving is illegal.

HIKING When you are hiking, be prepared for sudden weather changes, stick to your travel plan, and dress appropriately, with water- and wind-resistant clothing, gloves and hats.

Do not get too close to cliff edges or hot springs. When waves are big, stay far from the water’s edge; be especially vigilant along the south coast, which is open to the Atlantic Ocean.

If you get lost, call 112, the emergency service line. Stay where you are and wait for rescue services to find you.

The search and rescue association also offers a free emergency app, downloadable from their website. Your coordinates will be sent to the emergency response crews should you use the app. There is more information on safe travel in Iceland on our in-flight entertainment system.

Visit safetravel.is for equipment lists, travel plans and the latest traveling conditions.

84 / Safety

If you get lost on a mountain, can’t find your way at sea, or encounter virtually any other difficulty in Iceland’s outdoors, the Icelandic Association for Search and Rescue (ICE-SAR) is there to help. In a country with no military and only a few coast guard vessels and helicopters, ICE-SAR’s 3,000 highly-trained volunteers command deserved respect from both locals and visitors. Their teams deal with thousands of calls annually and are available 24 hours a day, on land or at sea. So while the vast majority of trips to Iceland will be without incident, you can rest easy that, should the need arise, the nation’s most experienced people will be prepared to save lives and prevent accidents under even the harshest conditions. Remember too that rescue operations are expensive to launch: Advanced equipment is used and volunteers take time off from their jobs to take part. ICE-SAR relies entirely on donations to finance itself; you can contribute via their website, icesar.com.

SAFETY ON BOARD Please note that your life jacket may be located under your seat, above your seat, or in the armrest.

We put safety first on all of our flights. The in-flight safety video gives a good overview of what you need to know for a safe journey. Please follow the instructions carefully and check out the safety card in your seat pocket. The cabin crew is there to assist and keep you safe at all times so please follow their guidance and suggestions. All electronic devices (mobile phones, tablets, e-readers) have to be switched off or in flight mode during the flight. Of course, this does not extend to heart pacemakers, hearing aids and other devices needed for medical reasons. If your mobile phone or tablet gets caught in the seat, please inform the cabin crew and they will assist you. If a battery operated device overheats during the flight, inform the cabin crew immediately.

Whenever the seatbelt signs are on please: n

Stow devices larger than 10.5 in (27 cm) and/or more than 2.2 lb (1 kg) in the overhead compartment.

Hold devices smaller than 10.5 in (27 cm) and lighter than 2.2 lb (1 kg) or stow them in the overhead compartment or seat pocket. To keep the cabin peaceful please use headphones when listening to music or other material and place computer games and such on silent or very low volume.

For your safety and comfort we recommend that you keep your seatbelt fastened and visible throughout the flight. Store your hand luggage in the overhead compartments or place it under the seat in front of you. Be careful when opening the compartments as luggage may have shifted. When space is limited we might need to store some hand luggage the luggage hold. Smoking is prohibited on all Icelandair flights. This includes vaping.

Icelandair Stopover / 85

VISA WAIVER PROGRAM – VWP – FOR TRAVEL TO USA Samningur um undanþágu frá vegabréfsáritun til Bandaríkjanna (Visa Waiver Program) gerir ríkisborgurum tiltekinna landa kleift að ferðast til Bandaríkjanna í skemmti- eða viðskiptaferð í allt að 90 sólarhringa án þess að sækja um og fá sérstaka vegabréfsáritun. Ferðamönnum, sem þessi samningur tekur til, er eftir sem áður heimilt að sækja um vegabréfsáritun ef þeir kjósa svo. Aðeins tiltekinn fjöldi ríkja eru aðilar að þessum samningi (VWP) og ekki er öllum ferðamönnum frá ríkjum, sem eru aðilar að samningnum, heimilt að nýta sér undanþáguna. Öllum ferðamönnum frá löndum, sem eru aðilar að VWP, er skylt að sækja um rafræna ferðaheimild á vef bandarískra innflytjendayfirvalda (Electronic

System for Travel Authorization—ESTA). Þegar komið er til Bandaríkjanna verður starfsmaður innflytjendayfirvalda á

flugvellinum að staðfesta að viðkomandi ferðamaður hafi undanþágu skv. VWP og ferðamaðurinn er þá skráður í US-VISIT kerfið.

Lönd sem eru aðilar að samningnum um undanþágu frá vegabréfsáritun til Bandaríkjanna Countries participating in the Visa Waiver Program n Andorra n France n Lithuania n Slovakia n Australia n Germany n Luxembourg n Slovenia n Austria n Greece n Malta n South Korea n Belgium n Hungary n Monaco n Spain n Brunei n Iceland n The Netherlands n Sweden n Chile n Ireland n New Zealand n Switzerland n Czech Republic n Italy n Norway n Taiwan n Denmark n Japan n Portugal n United Kingdom n Estonia n Latvia n San Marino n Finland n Liechtenstein n Singapore

VISA WAIVER PROGRAM The Visa Waiver Program (VWP) allows most nationals of participating countries to travel to the USA for tourism or business for up to 90 days without a visa. VWP travelers must have a valid Electronic System for Travel Authorization (ESTA) approval prior to travel and meet all requirements explained at cbp.gov/esta.

US CUSTOMS DECLARATION FORM EN

Before arriving in the US, each traveler or head of family is required to fill this form out and present to US Customs.

Hver komufarþegi eða forráða maður í fjölskyldu skal gefa eftirfarandi upplýsingar (fyrir hverja fjölskyldu dugar EIN yfirlýsing).

Vor der Einreise in den U.S.A müssen Sie eine Zollerklärung ausfüllen.

1. Eftirnafn, skírnarnafn, miðnafn

1. Familienname, Vorname, Zweiter Vorname

2. Fæðingardagur dagur / mánuður / ár

2. Geburtsdatum / Tag / Monat / Jahr

3. Fjöldi fjölskyldumeðlima sem ferðast saman

3. Anzahl der mit Ihnen reisenden Familienmitglieder

4. a) Heimilisfang í Bandaríkjunum (nafn hótels / áfangastaðar) b) Borg c) Fylki

4. (a) Adresse/genaue Anschrift in den USA (Name des Hotels / Reiseziel) (b) Stadt (c) Staat

Avant d’arriver aux États-Unis, il vous sera demandé de remplir un formulaire de déclaration en douane.

1. Nom, Prénom, Initiale du deuxième prénom. 2. Date de naissance Jour / Mois / Année. 3. Nombre de personnes voyageant avec vous. 4. Adresse aux États-Unis a) Destination ou nom de l’hôtel. b) Ville. c) Etat.

5. Útgáfustaður vegabréfs (land)

5. Pass ausgestellt von (Land)

6. Númer vegabréfs

6. Passnummer

7. Land búsetu

7. Ständiger Wohnsitz (Land)

8. Lönd sem var farið til í þessari ferð, fyrir lendingu í Bandaríkjunum

8. Auf dieser Reise besuchte Länder vor Ihrer Ankunft in den USA

7. Pays de résidence.

9. Flugfélag / Númer flugs eða heiti flugvélar

9. Fluggesellschaft/Flugnummer oder Name des Schiffes

8. Pays visités pendant ce voyage avant l’arrivée aux Etats-Unis.

10. Markmið þessarar ferðar er viðskiptalegs eðlis JÁ / NEI 11. Ég hef (við höfum) meðferðis: a) ávexti, jurtir, mat, skordýr: b) kjöt, dýr, dýraafurðir c) smitefni, frumuræktir, snigla d) mold eða hef/höfum dvalist á bónda bæ /mjólkurbúi / beitilandi JÁ/NEI 12. Ég hef (við höfum) verið í snertingu eða meðhöndlað lifandi dýr JÁ / NEI 13. Ég hef (við höfum) meðferðis peninga / gjaldmiðil eða aðra fjármuni að jafngildi hærri upphæð en USD 10.000. (sjá skilgreiningu á fjármun-um á bakhlið seðilsins) JÁ / NEI

10. Der Hauptanlass dieser Reise ist geschäftlich. Ja/nein 11. Ich (wir) führen folgende Waren ein: (a) Früchte, Pflanzen, Lebensmittel, Insekten. (b) Fleisch, Tiere, Tier- oder Wildprodukte. (c) Krankheitserreger, Zellkulturen, Schnecken. (d) Erde, oder waren Sie auf einem Bauernhof/einer Ranch/Weide. Ja/ nein 12. Ich war (wir waren) in unmittelbarer Nähe von Vieh/Nutztieren (z.B. Anfassen oder Umgang damit). Ja/nein

14. Ég hef (við höfum) meðferðis varning (til sölu eða sem ég hef (við höfum) keypt eða fengið erlendis, sem ekki teljast til persónulegra eigna) JÁ / NEI

13. Ich führe (wir führen) mehr als $US 10,000 in Bargeld oder Zahlungsmitteln oder den Gegenwert in anderen ausländischen Währungen mit.

15. Búsettir í Bandaríkjunum – andvirði varnings sem ég hef (við höfum) keypt eða fengið erlendis (einnig gjafir fyrir aðra) er: Ekki búsettir í Bandaríkjunum – andvirði alls varnings sem verður eftir í Bandaríkjunum:

(Siehe die Definition von Zahlungsmitteln auf der Rückseite). Ja/nein

14. Ich führe (wir führen) kommerzielle Waren mit. (Verkaufsware, Muster zur Werbung von Aufträgen oder Artikel, die nicht als Gegenstände zum persönlichen Gebrauch gelten) Ja/nein 15. Ansässige – der Gesamtwert aller Waren, einschliesslich der kommerziellern Waren, die ich (wir) im Ausland gekauft oder erworben habe(n) - (einschließlich Geschenke an Dritte, jedoch ausschließlich Gegenstände, die per Post in die USA gesendet wurden) und in die USA einführe(n).

86 / Customs Info

Besucher – der Gesamtwert aller Waren, die in den USA verbleiben werden, einschließlich der kommerziellen Waren, beträgt.

5. Lieu de délivrance du passeport (nom du pays). 6. Numéro de passeport.

9. Ligne aérienne / et numéro du vol / Nom de vaisseau. 10. Vous voyagez pour raison d’affaires. OUI /NON 11. Je suis / nous sommes porteurs de a) fruits, plantes, produits alimentaires, insectes. b) viandes, animaux, produits provenant d’animaux ou d’animaux sauvages c) agents pouvant causer des maladies, cultures cellulaires, escargots d) terre. J’ai / Nous avons visité une exploitation agricole en dehors des Etats-Unis, OUI / NON 12. J’ai / nous avons touché ou traité du bétail. OUI/NON 13. Je suis / nous sommes porteurs d’espèces ou d’instruments monétaires d’une valeur équivalente en monnaie des États Unis ou de tout autre pays (Voir définition d’instruments monétaire au verso) à plus de 10 000$ US. OUI / NON 14. Je suis / nous sommes en possession de marchandises commerciales (articles des tinés à la vente, échantillon de démonstra tion ou tout autre article autresque des effets personnels). OUI/NON 15. Résidents : La valeur totale de tous les arti cles (y compris les marchandises commer ciales) que j’ai / nous avons acheté ou acquis à l’étranger et que j’apporte / nous apportons (y compris cadeaux, mais qui excluent les effets affranchis vers les États-Unis) aux ÉtatsUnis. Visiteurs : La valeur totale de tous les articles qui resteront aux États-Unis (y compris les marchan dises commerciales).

CANADA CUSTOMS DECLARATION FORM Before arriving in Canada, each traveler or head of family is required to fill this form out and present to Customs. Why passengers coming from non-EEA or Schengen countries require security screening upon arrival in Iceland Aviation security regulations in countries outside the European Economic Area (EEA), including Canada, do not comply with those in EEA countries, including Iceland. Passengers from non-EEA

countries must therefore go through security screening at KeflavĂk International Airport before joining other passengers in the terminal. The same rules apply to the quantity of liquids in carry-on baggage.

ICELANDAIR ALLERGY POLICY Icelandair cannot guarantee an allergenfree environment on board its aircraft. Therefore, we strongly encourage passengers with severe allergies that can result in anaphylaxis to bring an epinephrine autoinjector (EpiPenÂŽ) and any other medications they may need. The meals offered on Icelandair flights do not contain peanuts or peanut products, such as peanut butter, although trace elements from peanuts may be found in meals. In addition, tree nuts (e.g. almonds) may be found in meals on board, and fish and shellfish are sometimes on offer in Saga Premium. Unfortunately, it is not possible to remove tree nuts, fish or shellfish from the cabin.

In the case of severe nut allergy, our cabin crew can make an allergy announcement on board, asking other passengers on the flight not to consume foods that contain nuts. Please contact Icelandair Customer support at +354 50 50 100 at least 48 hours before departure to request an allergy announcement. We do, however, wish to stress that Icelandair can in no way restrict other passengers from bringing or consuming their own food on the aircraft that may contain nuts or other allergens. For that reason, it is possible to find traces of nuts on seat cushions, arm rests, tray tables, or elsewhere in the cabin.

BRING YOUR COSTCO CARD WITH YOU TO ICELAND! Costco Iceland opened in May 2017. Just like other Costco warehouses, Costco Iceland offers one of the largest and most exclusive product category selections to be found under one roof. Categories include groceries, confectionery, appliances, television and audio equipment, automotive supplies, tires, toys, hardware, sporting goods, jewellery, watches, cameras, books, housewares, apparel, health and beauty aids, furniture, office supplies and office equipment. The warehouse also has a self-service gas station.

Kauptun 3, 210 Gardabaer WAREHOUSE OPENING TIMES Monday - Friday: 10am to 9pm Saturday: 9:30am to 8pm Sunday: 10am to 6pm

Phone: +354 532 5555

Email: costco@costco.is

GAS STATION OPENING TIMES Monday - Friday: 7am to 10pm Saturday: 7am to 9.30pm Sunday: 7am to 7pm

PHARMACY OPENING TIMES Monday - Friday: 11am to 7pm Saturday: 10am to 6pm Sunday: 10am to 4pm

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