www.icelandictimes.com
volcano cinema • café • geological exhibition
CINEMA ON FIRE Volcano House features two documentaries chronicling two of Iceland´s most famous volcanic eruptions of the last 40 years
Eyjafjallajökull 2010 Eruption
This powerful documentary made specially for Volcano House was filmed and directed by the Emmy-nominated Icelandic film maker, Jóhann Sigfússon
The Westman Island´s 1973 Eruption
began without warning on the night of January 23rd, 1973 where 400 homes perished under ash and lava
Showtimes: English: 10:00 to 21:00 Every hour on the hour German: 18:00 From June 1st – September 1st
Tryggvagata 11, 101 Reykjavik | (354) 555 1900 | volcanohouse.is
W
hen the Viking seafarer, Hrafna-Flóki found Iceland, he enjoyed a gloriously hot summer. So he was not prepared for the bitterly cold winter as the weather changed. Climbing the highest mountain he could find, he saw a fjord filled with ice. That, it is said, is how Iceland got its name. It’s a rugged country that has seen its share of disasters over the centuries and, to a modern observer, it seems it must have
been a very tough life before the advent of geothermal heating. Even today, you have to be fit and wellequipped if you want to face the challenges of travel in the interior or Highlands. While many hikes are easy, there are those that challenge the very spirit of man and which are for the bold, brave, fit and well-prepared. However, each year, there are a number of visitors who try to travel into the interior, not
realising the hazards that can befall them. It is therefore very prudent that Iceland has such a well organised rescue service. There are many tours that can take you into these spectacular landscapes — either as hikes or in SuperJeeps with experienced drivers. The trips are worth every moment, as you can read here, but do follow the guidelines and stay safe. Enjoy your Icelandic summer. —Andrew Scott Fortune
Contents Iceland’s Art History .............................................................................. 6 The All-Icelandic Wool Shop............................................................... 8 The Ultimate Fashion Statement...................................................... 9 Living Design Museum.......................................................................10 Photos, Food and Glaciers................................................................. 12 Rent Your Own Super-Defender..................................................... 12 The Brave get the Best......................................................................... 13 A Downtown Village............................................................................14 Reykjavik Dinner Cruise...................................................................... 15 The Joyful Wonderland.......................................................................16 The Treasure Chest...............................................................................16 An Icelandic Icon................................................................................... 17 Sailors and Storms................................................................................18 Spreading the Taste..............................................................................18 Prepare to be Amazed.................................................................. 20-21 Living in the Lava..................................................................................22 The Warmth of Iceland........................................................................23 Touring with a Friend...........................................................................24 A Wish Come True.................................................................................26 From Hunters to Home.......................................................................27 Duty Free the Icelandic Way...................................................... 28-29 Kvikan has the Answers......................................................................30 Connected by Energy and History ................................................32 Grindavík’s Harbour Café...................................................................33 Cod at its Freshest in Grindavík.......................................................33 The Raw Earth.................................................................................. 34-35 Four Star Comfort in Keflavík............................................................38 Burning Hot as the Sun.......................................................................39 Dine 10 min from the Airport ..........................................................40 Dine at Keflavík’s Harbour.................................................................42 Leather Designer...................................................................................44 History Brought to Life........................................................................46 Between Mountains and Sea............................................................47 A Setting for Every Mood...................................................................48 Hot from the Oven................................................................................48 Worlds of Magic & Mythology..........................................................49 Where Birds & Photographers meet....................................... 50-51 Step Back in Time..................................................................................52
Meet The Ocean’s Big Five.................................................................53 The Draw of the West.................................................................... 54-55 Mystic History.........................................................................................56 Soft as Silk Spa........................................................................................56 Iceland’s Oldest Country Hotel........................................................57 Peace with Nature and Birds.............................................................57 Interview with a Whale................................................................ 58-59 Where Monsters Rule...........................................................................60 Westfjords Revealed............................................................................60 Accommodation for All.......................................................................61 Iceland’s First Settler............................................................................62 A Nature Paradise..................................................................................63 Westfjords Wonders.............................................................................63 A Hidden Gem in Viðidalur................................................................65 Horses, History & Nature.............................................................66-67 Singing in the Silence..........................................................................69 The Arctic Bow .......................................................................................70 On Top of the World.............................................................................71 Just Opened............................................................................................71 Dining with a Harbour View..............................................................72 The Old Post Office ..............................................................................73 Sweet Memories of Iceland...............................................................73 The Northern Playground............................................................74-75 Ambassador to the Whales...............................................................76 Eat Vegan in Eyjafjörður......................................................................76 Where Fitness Folk Eat........................................................................77 The North Eats Thai..............................................................................77 The Country Experience.....................................................................78 A Guesthouse in the Country...........................................................78 Guarded by a Firey Dragon...............................................................79 Entranced by the East..........................................................................80 A Fresh Place to Stay............................................................................81 At the Eastern Crossroads..................................................................82 Cowshed Corner....................................................................................82 The Mystery of Randulff’s Sea House............................................83 The Natural Pearl of the East.............................................................84 A Class from the Past ...........................................................................85 Stay in a World of Beauty ..................................................................86
Credits PUBLISHER
SALES AND MARKE TING Anna Margrét Bjarnadóttir anna@icelandictimes.com
Delphine Briois
andrew@icelandictimes.com
ARTICLES WRIT TEN BY
elinb@landogsaga.is
Elín Sigríður Ármannsdóttir EDITOR & GENERAL MANAGER Einar Th. Thorsteinsson einar@landogsaga.is
elin@icelandictimes.com
Erna Sigmundsdóttir erna@landogsaga.is
Hrönn Kristbjörnsdóttir VIDEO & T V DEPARTMENT Einar Th. Thorsteinsson Gabriel Rutenberg Sigurlaug Ragnarsdóttir L AYOUT & DESIGN Land & Saga Layout Team
PROOFREADER Andrew Scott Fortune
Elín Bára Einarsdóttir
delphine@icelandictimes.com
ICELANDIC TIMES
Icelandic language ENGLISH EDITOR &
hronn@landogsaga.is
Sigurlaug Ragnarsdóttir
sigurlaug@icelandictimes.com
FRONT COVER PHOTO BY Brynjar Ágústsson
Andrew Scott Fortune Anna Margarét Bjarnadóttir Elaine Marie Valgarðsson Júlíana Björnsdóttir Kelly Baumann Nanna Hlín Halldórsdóttir Sigrún Pétursdóttir Stefán Helgi Valsson Vignir Andri Guðmundsson
Stay in Reyðarfjörður...........................................................................86 The French Connection......................................................................87 Quintessentially German...................................................................87 Just Begging to be Explored............................................................88 Wilderness in Full Colour...................................................................89 A Birdwatcher’s Paradise.............................................................90-91 Sail a Fantasy World..............................................................................92 The Vast Vatnajökull.............................................................................93 Dine in the Langoustine Capital.....................................................94 Eating well in Höfn................................................................................95 On Top of the World......................................................................96-97 A Hike of a Lifetime............................................................................ 100 A Secret Beauty spot .........................................................................102 Refreshed under the Glacier...........................................................103 The Old Cowhouse Restaurant .................................................... 104 A Multinational Tapestry................................................................. 106 Personal Iceland...................................................................................107 Tölt on the Volcano............................................................................107 A Diverse Community...................................................................... 108 A Taste of Ethiopia............................................................................. 108 An Idyllic Stay....................................................................................... 109 Raised on Chocolate......................................................................... 109 Slakki Zoo’s 20 th Anniversary..................................................110-111 Within The Golden Circle.................................................................112 Down Into the Depths.......................................................................112 A Taste of Iceland’s Wild & Sweet..................................................113 The following pages are found only in the issue for sale: The Power of Images..................................................................116-117 The Icelandic Horse....................................................................118-119 Let Books Brag For You............................................................120-121 Birdwatching in Paradise........................................................122-123 It’s a Bird’s Life.............................................................................124-125 The World’s Largest Mammal on Display.........................126-127 Shaped by the Bay.....................................................................128-129 Prepare for Lunar Landing...............................................................130
How to make use of QR codes
Icelandic is one of the European root languages, like Latin. There is no ‘c’ or ‘z’ in modern Icelandic, except in foreign words. However, It still contains some letters not found in most other languages. This basic list provides a general idea of their sounds, using familiar words rather than phonetics. Character
Pronunciation
á æ ð þ
Like ‘ow’ in ‘cow’ Like the personal pronoun ‘I’ Like ‘th’ in ‘that’ Like ‘th’ in ‘thing’
Use your QR code reader application on your smartphone or iPad to scan the QR codes. QR code reader applications can be downloaded free for all makes of smartphones
Icelandic Times TheopinionsexpressedinIcelandicTimesdonotnecessarilyreflectthoseoftheeditor,publishersortheiragents.Thoughthe contentofthisissuehavebeenmeticulouslyprepared,nowarrantyismadeabouttheaccuracyandcompletenessofitscontent. Copyright © July 2013 Icelandic Times. All rights reserved
4
Oddi Ecolabelled Printing Co.
www.icelandictimes.com
Síðumúla 1 • 108 Reykjavík
+354 578 5800
info@icelandictimes.com www.icelandictimes.com
To u r i s m , C u lt u r e
and
Business
I s s u e 19 • 2013
Iceland’s Art History A Guide to the Heart of Iceland
O
f the many ways to understand a foreign culture, examining its art has to be one of the most pleasing, but grasping the history and tradition of a nation can appear to be a daunting task for newcomers. That’s why the Reykjavik Art Museum will be giving weekly guided tours in Kjarvalsstaðir, one of the museum’s three locations, where visitors will be guided through over 200 paintings from some of Iceland’s most celebrated artists.
The guided tours are included in the regular ticket price and will be given each Friday at 11 am. Kjarvalsstaðir takes its name from one of Iceland’s most celebrated artists. (He’s the gentleman on the 2000 kr. bill.) It houses a sizable collection of his works. Be sure to linger a while at a painting named Fjallamjólk, as few other paintings have captured Iceland’s nature in a more memorable fashion.
Kjarvalsstaðir
Ásmundarsafn
The exhibition is called Icelandic Art 19001950: From Landscape to Abstract Art. Over 200 pieces from 40 artists from the period are on display, divided into four subjects: Romantic and Radical (19001930); Landscape (1930-1950); The Human Scale (1930-1950) and New radicalism and the beginning of the abstract (1940-1950). As the subjects imply, there is a lot to take in and the significance of each period and each artist would perhaps be lost for those passing through, although the paintings would be no less striking.
Located in a spectacular building on the east side of Reykjavik, Ásmundarsafn used to be the home of Ásmundur Sveinsson, an early 20th century Icelandic sculptor. He sought inspiration for his works in Icelandic folklore, myth and literature, the last of which is the theme of the ‘Tales from the Vault’ exhibition that explores the literary motifs that inspired Ásmundur’s works. A visit to Ásmundarsafn is an experience in itself as the house design is quite fantastical and the sculptures in the garden around it give its visitors a peek into the world that inspired his art. Hafnarhúsið The Reykjavik Art Museum’s third location is also its newest and home to Iceland’s vibrant contemporary art scene, along with international exhibitions. It also hosts a large collection of the works of the acclaimed pop-artist, Erró. Among the exhibitions this summer is ‘All State’ by Theresa Himmer, a sound composition that takes place in the museum’s elevator; ‘Interval’ by Huginn Þór Arason and Andrea Maack, which explores a fragrance of the future and ‘The Sound of a Bugle in a Shoebox: Magnús Pálsson —A Performance Retrospective 1980-2013’, which is a retrospective of the performance work of one of Iceland’s most prolific and influential artists of the last six decades. –
VAG
Reykjavik Art Museum Fríkirkjuvegi 7 • 101 Reykjavík
+354 515 9600 list@listasafn.is www.listasafn.is
6
www.icelandictimes.com
Descend 120 meters into the dormant Thrihnukagigur volcano.
I have never been anywhere underground that matches the grandeur and impact of this place. - Sunday Times
Standing inside a volcano is a strangely emotional experience. - The Guardian
One of twenty places in the world you must see before you die.
- CNN
Inside the Volcano Journey towards the Center of the Earth
For the first time in history, travelers have the opportunity to see what a volcano looks like on the inside. Descend into a 4.000 year old magma chamber and experience a new underground world. • • • • •
Tour departures: 8:00 / 10:00 / 12:00 / 14:00 Maximum 14 people in each tour Duration: 5-6 hours (up to 1 hour inside the volcano) Minimum age: 12 years Fitness level needed: Moderate. No knowledge of hiking or climbing is required. Price: ISK 37,000 per person
Book now at InsideTheVolcano.com or at your nearest Tourist Information Desk.
Extensive safety procedures are followed at all stages of the tour and visitors are accompanied by specially trained guides at all times. All equipment and processes have been tested extensively and approved by the administration of Occupational Safety and Health in Iceland.
InsideTheVolcano.com
To u r i s m , C u lt u r e
and
Business
I s s u e 19 • 2013
The All-Icelandic Wool Shop
TheIcelandicHandknittingAssn.sellsIcelandicwoolandproducts
S
heep came to Iceland with the Viking settlers and quickly proved their worth, not only for their meat but also their wool and skins. Living conditions were very basic and especially tough in the cold and dark winter months. Sheep helped keep the settlers alive. These Icelandic sheep have two types of fleece—an outer, weather and water repellent layer and a soft, warm fleece close to the skin. Combined, they have provided warm clothing for farmers and seamen, adults, children and babies for centuries. Making sweaters became a tradition in farmhouses, cottages and houses around the country.
From home to market
The Handknitting Association of Iceland was founded in 1977 to help knitters to get t heir ha nd iwork ma rketed. A group of women formed the association, establishing standards and guidelines for the production that was - and still is, an important supplement to many family incomes. Shortly thereafter, they opened a shop to sell their members’ woollen goods at Skólavörðustígur 19, the main shopping street that descends from Hallgrímskirkja, the cathedral overlooking the city.
8
Find the real thing
In today’s globalised society, it is increasingly difficult to be sure you are getting a genuine article, rather than one made thousands of miles away, with wool without the characteristics that has made Icelandic wool so special for hundreds of years. The Handknitting Assn.’s shop only stocks genuine Icelandic wool and clothing made by professional Icelandic knitters, so you can be certain you are getting the true, well-made product. Look for the logo to be sure. Their motto from the outset has been, ‘Buy directly from the people who make them’. Walking into the shop, one cannot help but be amazed at the skill and productivity of these ladies—and some men, too, from all walks of life, living in all parts of the country. Every item has that sense of individual uniqueness that only handmade items carry.
Icelandic designers have also turned their attention to wool as a medium of choice for their fashion designs, resulting in new products, styles and colours. Today, there is a wide range of sweaters, gloves, hats, scarves, socks, bags and many other items in sizes to suit everyone from a Viking warrior (or farmer) to a pretty fashion model to a newborn baby. The store is a centre, not only for selling the finished products, but also for supplying the wool and all the accessories required to make woollen items. If knitting is your hobby, there is a world of warm designs just waiting for you. Icelandic wool wears very well and it is not uncommon for people to wear sweaters many years and for them to still look fresh. Visitors can have their purchases shipped to them and they can also order from the Traditional and modern styles website. That includes the patterns, wool, T he world of k n it t i ng h a s c h a nged needles and accessories, not just the clothing. – ASF dramatically since the association began. A few decades ago, the designs took the form of HandprjónasambandÍslands the ‘lopapeysa’ or sweater, with its distinctive Skólavörðustígur 19 • 101 Reykjavík +354 552 1890 scalloped pattern, which has become so handknit@handknit.is www.handknit.is popular worldwide, but numerous young
www.icelandictimes.com
The Ultimate Fashion Statement Huld Design in Reykjavik creates priceless fashion accessories
T
here used to be a joke in Iceland: How many fish leather shoes would it take to walk a distance. Everyone knew that fish leather just fell apart. It was beautiful - but useless. It was just too weak for anything. That all changed in 1994 when, after years of experiments and gallons of fish soup, a new tannery in the far northern f ishing town of Sauðárk rókur was to specialise in the production of high quality fish leather. From this centre of culture and enterprise has come a steadily growing supply of some of the most beautiful leather known to man.
Leather from the sea
Have you ever seen a salmon, for example? Its finely textured skin is smooth, shiny and reflects a rainbow of delicate colours. Or the perch from the lakes of Africa, with its rougher skin or the ‘leopard of the sea’, the wolffish. This is a big, pretty ugly fish, called ‘steinbitar’ or stone biter in
Icelandic. It’s claim to fame, though, is its unusual leopard-patterned, shiny skin that is astonishingly beautiful. Now the tanners have perfected their vibrant colours and fabulous textures and skills, and were able to provide a range of patterns hecame an instant success. different coloured fishskin leathers, the question was, what to do with them? The popularity of durability and style Huld Reykjavik’s shop tried to keep pace Making the new leather an art form with demand, but waves of foreign visitors In the late 1990s, Hulda Kristjánsdóttir set kept clearing the shelves. Rather than up a leather workshop. Taking the new fish sacrifice quality or artistic design, they have leather, she began creating everything from been doing the best they can to expand their bags to bracelets, from earrings to wallets, range and provide something for everyone. from belts to cuffs. This fish leather is very durable and keeps Within weeks, her work was the talk of the its beauty for years. Its surface is strong town and her high quality workmanship was and resistant to scuffing, looking new for being seen in all the fashionable places. generations. Iceland was emerging from being ‘Europe’s Their shop is easy to find in downtown Best Kept Secret’ to becoming the location Reykjavik, right at the junction of the main of choice for brave tourists. Not, you might shopping street, Laugavegur and the road think, the clientele for high fashion. up to the cathedral, Skólavörðustígur. – ASF These are the people used to thinking differently and, seeing Huld’s workmanship Huld Design and fashionable designs, they were quickly to Skólvörðustíg 4 • 101 Reykjavík +354 551 7015 be seen all over Europe and America—and hulda@huld.is www.huld.is now, as far afield as China and Japan. Their
www.icelandictimes.com
9
To u r i s m , C u lt u r e
and
Business
I s s u e 19 • 2013
Living Design Museum
All branches of Icelandic design are represented in Kraum
I
n the 1700s, Iceland was under harsh Danish rule and was very poor. Skúli Magnússon became the f irst Icelandic representative for the king of Denmark in the country and set about transforming the economy. He built the first factories, transforming the country. The only building from that time has survived is Aðalstræti 10, right at the end of Reykjavik’s main shopping street in the centre of town. This has now become the Mecca of Icelandic Design after it was acquired by Kraum. In 2007, after a complete refurbishment, Kraum opened to continue Skúli’s vision with a group of 30 designers - whose numbers have quickly swelled into the hundreds. Today, Kraum has become the definitive Icelandic design shop, with its designers spanning every area of Icelandic design. The old building has been expanded with a new wing that provides a large display area with natural lighting.
Over the past six years, I have watched as more designers have introduced their concepts to the world through Kraum – and Kraum, itself, also commissioned two of their own: original designs for the famous pancake pan and a laufás bread cutter. (Laufabrauð is a delicious delicacy produced in homes all over the country at Christmas time.)
Designs for every taste and interest
The traditional items such as jewellery and furniture (which can all be easily packed for shipping) have been supplemented by new styles and types of clothing – and now, both men’s and women’s shirts that are proving to be best sellers. Follow ing t he brea kt hroug hs w it h tanning of fish leather, there are handbags, accessories and even shoes. Then there are lights in many shapes and forms, decorative and printed items, designs to fit almost every room in the house. The list is as long as the list of designers who create them and it’s fascinating to browse and see the scope of the different ideas displayed. It is a living museum – but one where you can take home whatever you fancy. If you r choic e is too big for you r luggage, it’s not a problem, as Kraum ships worldwide. Then, of course, visitors also benefit from the tax refund. –
Kraum Aðalstræti 10 • 101 Reykjavík
+354 517 7797 kraum@kraum.is www.kraum.is
10
www.icelandictimes.com
ASF
Our Master Watchmaker never loses his concentration With his legendary concentration and 45 years of experience our Master Watchmaker and renowned craftsman, Gilbert O. Gudjonsson, inspects every single timepiece before it leaves our workshop. All the watches are designed and assembled by hand in Iceland. Only highest quality movements and materials are used to produce the watches and every single detail has been given the time needed for perfection. The quantity of watches produced is limited, giving them an exclusive and truly personal feel.
www.jswatch.com
To u r i s m , C u lt u r e
and
Business
I s s u e 19 • 2013
Photos, Food and Glaciers
Isafold Travel offers Themed Tours in Small Groups
T
ravelling in small groups is a great experience, as it gives you the right mixture of cameraderie and intimacy. Isafold Travel has, for the past couple of years, planned scheduled tours, where individuals and groups can book places on tours with typically 6 to 12 participants. By planning these tours around a theme, they help group members to bond, while ensuring that the pace is suitable for everyone – e.g. Photo and Bird Watching tours require a flexible schedule, with long stops where conditions are good, whereas Culinary and Saga tours adhere strictly to the timetable.
The themes are quite varied: Culinary tours, where you meet food producers and chefs; Photo tours with professional photographers; Saga tours with history experts; and Bird Watching with ornithologists, etc.
4x4 Self-drive tours
Isafold Travel started using modified Land Rover Defenders for tours to hard-to-reach places in the Icelandic Highlands. However, now the experience of driving these iconic 4x4 vehicles has become a theme in itself. The Self-drive tours are operated in both Winter and Summer, and one can choose
between the Adventure (1 night), Safari (2 nights) or Trophy (4 nights) tours, all of which include shared accommodation in mountain huts, and the brand new Highland Challenge and Comfort, with hotel accommodation. In Spring 2014 Isafold Travel will start a truly unique Self-drive tour: the Vatnajökull Glacier Trophy. On this 5 day tour customers will spend 3 days exploring the hidden gems of Vatnajökull, Europe’s largest glacier. This will be an extremely challenging tour that is only recommended for experienced drivers.
Isafold travel Smidshofdi 21 • 110 Reykjavik
+354 544 8866 info@isafoldtravel.is www.isafoldtravel.is
Rent Your Own Super-Defender The Icelandic 4x4 Culture Revealed B ecause of the often-harsh landscapes of Iceland, ordinary vehicles can’t always take you to the places you want to go. This is why ISAK 4x4 Rental rents specially modified 4x4 Land Rover Defenders that open up new territories for adventurous travellers. Icelanders have skillfully modified 4x4 vehicles and maneuver them in extreme conditions. This has sprouted a whole new culture, where conquering the hardest-toreach places of Iceland is the ultimate goal. T he 4 x4 veh ic le s a re L a nd Rover Defenders, specially modified with 38”
12
tyres and equipped with air compressors (to inflate or deflate the tires according to surface density); ice bumper; snorkel; GPS; a radio to communicate between vehicles, and all other necessary equipment – including, of course, a shovel! They also provide the necessary training. But don’t worry, getting into rough terrain is all part of the adventure. All you need is a valid driving license, maybe just a bit of courage, and you’ll be crossing the un-bridged Icelandic highland rivers in no time-and enjoying every moment of it.
www.icelandictimes.com
New for Summer 2014
Recognising that not everyone wants to push the limits with a Super Defender on glaciers and over rivers, ISA K has introduced a more economical alternative. Travellers who would like to drive the popular Land Rover on all the Icelandic paved and unpaved roads, can now reserve an unmodified ÍSEY at unbeatable prices. –
VAG/ASF
Isak 4x4 Rental Smidshofdi 21 • 110 Reykjavik
+354 544 8860 info@isak.is www.isak.is
The Brave get the Best
The Sea Baron’s Fish Meals attract visitors from all over the world
I
cela nd ha s ma ny ‘ d if ferent’ foods which have their roots in seafaring history. The Vikings came up with many novel ways of preserving their foods and their traditions continue to this day. Some of these foods sound unappealing, to say the least, and it takes the adventurous soul to step out and try them. Iceland is for the adventurous and they reap the benefits of the brave. The timid stick to burgers!
A True Fisherman
A former fisherman and Coast Guard chef, Kjartan Halldórsson, also known as the Sea Baron, is the master of unusual fish dishes. His lobster soup, for example, has gained
fame around the world, earning it the title of ‘the world’s greatest lobster soup’. While he doesn’t reveal the secrets of his recipe, that doesn’t stop his restaurant from being filled every day with afficianados. He entered the restaurant business by chance. One day, when standing by his boxes of fish, some foreign visitors asked if he could prepare some fish for them. Spotting an opportunity, he ran to the nearest hardware store to buy a grill—and was in business! His visitors were invited to dine in his shop in this improbable restaurant. Word quickly spread and soon he was shifting his boxes out of the way to make room for tables and chairs.
He took the unusual and created delicious meals that no-one else had thought of trying. He took old recipes, some of which sounded revolting, and from them, made meals that have established his reputation around the world. Kjartan’s restaurant is popular with the fishermen who sailed for many years from Reykjavik. It is filled with memorabilia donated by old sea captains and their families, that fill it with a character all its own. Handmade model sailing boats, pictures of ships of the past and stuffed birds fill the second floor’s walls, where groups of up to 35 can celebrate together and where the fishermen used to sleep when coming to land.
Dining as a Seafaring Experience
Eating at the polished tables, sitting on cushioned f ish barrels, surrounded by paraphernalia of the sea, is an experience that will leave you with both good memories, a satisfied appetite—and perhaps, a rather shocked mind that you would actually have eaten fermented fish and that it tasted so, so good.
Smoked in Succulence
A true pioneer, Kjartan is always coming up new ideas. Besides the smoked eel, Kjartan has taken to smoking mackerel and the special grey halibut, the delicious flat fish with both eyes on top. His technique imbibes the fish with a delicious flavour that has to be tasted to be believed. –
ASF
Sægreifinn Geirsgata 8 • 101 Reykjavík
+354 553 1500 info@saegreifinn.is www.saegreifinn.is
www.icelandictimes.com
13
To u r i s m , C u lt u r e
and
Business
I s s u e 19 • 2013
A Downtown Village
Reykjavik Hostel Village offers Budget Travellers the Best
I
n the centre of Reykjavik, surrounded by the main shopping street, a major art gallery, a park, and a short distance from the local and up-country bus stations, Hótel Flóki has been transformed into a small village of pleasant houses for budgetconscious visitors, families, groups and travellers who are touring the country. Each of its 5 houses has a suburban feel to it, with its own garden—great for sunbathing and barbecues. Visitors feel almost as if they are living in an Icelander’s house—except for the friendly, multinational clientele, many of whom are returning to explore more of the country.
up-country trip or tour, both the Reykjavik airport and the BSÍ bus station are close by. The Reykjavik Hostel Village can supply rental cars and book tours for you and will also take care of luggage, bikes, etc., while you head out on a trip and you can pick them up on your return. So the more adventurous can try different areas to explore without having to lug everything with them.
Enjoy the Reykjavik Scene
In recent years, Iceland has become famous world-wide for its dynamic music and cultural scene like Iceland Airwaves, for example. Many want to come to enjoy the concerts but find hotel costs somewhat offputting. The conversion of Hótel Flóki to a Hostel Village means that nobody should feel excluded as there is now a reasonably-priced option in a very good location, with all the concert locations in easy reach.
Conference accommodation
Increasingly, Reykjavik has also been the centre for conferences, so it’s valuable to know there’s a clean and comfortable room in a nice house within easy reach of the major conference centres. Laugavegur, the main shopping street, is a hub of restaurants and eateries of all kinds, of art and cultural shops, clothing shops and places of interest. It leads to the centre of town and the nightclub scene. Friday and Saturdays, things get started late, so there’s plenty of time to eat before enjoying events that go on right through the bright summer nights. When you want to get home, the Hostel Village is right there.
Your Reykjavik base
The Village makes an ideal spot to base from. It’s within easy reach of every kind of restaurant, café and eating place—not to mention shops of all types, too. The local bus, or stræto, passes right in front of the main building and a large bus station is only a short walk. When coming from the airport, the transit buses will drop you off right at the door. When planning an
Book ahead for the best
It’s wise to book in advance to secure your place to enjoy Iceland. –
ASF
Reykjavik Hostel Village Flókagata 1 • 105 Reykjavik
+354 552 1155 info@hostelvillage.is www.hostelvillage.is
14
www.icelandictimes.com
glacier gleams in the evening sunshine. As you eat, the Andrea cruises around the historic Viðey and Engey islands in the bay. As it sails, you’ll probably see the puffins caring for their fledglings or relaxing after a day’s food gathering. The dinner, as you would expect, is mouth-watering and full of flavour. Here, you can eat in comfort, unrushed, being DinewithSpecialToursontheAndreasailingthecoastofReykjavik served by diligent waiters and waitresses ou can see the beautiful blue and luxurious surroundings of the Andrea, with a top class meal. A full complement of white boat down at Reykjavik’s Old listening to the strains of live instrumental wines and spirits are available to go with the Harbour. Every Friday evening through the music in the background. dinner and a decadent dessert rounds off the summer, it slips its moorings to sail around The view, with the sun starting to sink beautiful evening. – ASF the Faxafloi Bay, filled with diners enjoying toward the western horizon, turning the a full 5-course meal, courtesy of Kopar, one sky a flaming red and gold, is outstanding. Special Tours of Reykjavik’s top restaurants. On one side of the boat, you see Reykjavik’s Ægisgarur 1 • 101 Reykjavik +354 560 8800 You are greeted with a welcome drink skyline and the Harpa concert hall in a new info@specialtours.is www.specialtours.is as the ship sets sail, surrounded by the light while, on the other side, the Snæfells
Reykjavik Dinner Cruise Y
WHALE WATCHING
DAILY T O
ALL YEAURS R!
Educational and interactive!
Puffin Express
Sea Angling
Special Tours & Life of Whales | Reykjavik | +354 560 8800 | www.specialtours.is | www.lifeofwhales.is
Deu
tsch
ISSN 2298 -317 1
€4
Von
V stille on Po eten nB , e
eA
usg
abe
Now also available in French and German The Icelandic Times is on sale in all good bookshops in Iceland
www.icelandictimes.com
15
To u r i s m , C u lt u r e
and
Business
I s s u e 19 • 2013
The Joyful Wonderland
The little Christmas shop that is festive all year round
A
nne Helen, owner of ‘The Little Christmas Shop’ on Reykjavik’s main shopping street, Laugavegur, is what you might call a ‘one woman wonder’. When she lost her job in tourism ten years ago, she decided it was time for a change and turned to doing what she does better than most of us; making the world a prettier place, one Christmas ball at a time.
In the Land of Eternal Christmas
all over Europe, her ambition is to specialise in Icelandic handiwork and ornaments. She already has an extensive collection for sale, most made exclusively for her by artists, each having a distinctive approach and working in materials as different as wool, glass and clay. In addition to customary Christmas ornaments, she includes local folklore figures, like the thirteen Santas and the Christmas Cat.
Anne Helen, a genuine aesthete, says she has always had somewhat of a Christmas frenzy and an intense passion for things of beauty. She never goes for anything average but hunts for things of quality that truly stand out. Though she imports merchandise from
–
Laugarvegi 8 • Reykjavík
+354 552 2412 none none
A Master Craftsman Creates Works of Art in Precious Metals
óra Guðbjör t Jónsdót t ir is one o f I c e l a n d ’s f i n e s t a n d m o s t productive goldsmiths using, with great understanding, the ways of Icelandic masters before her time. Between 1949-53, Dóra started learning the trade at her father’s workshop, gaining her Master’s degree in 1953. Additionally, she studied at Tärna folk high school in Sweden, Konstfackskolan in Stockholm around 1950, graduating with honours and at Vereinigte Goldschmiede-, Kunst- und Werkschule in Pforzheim, Germany in 1954.
16
HÞ
Litla Jólabúðin
The Treasure Chest D
Anne Helen loves is to tell customers about Icelandic Christmas traditions. Visitors often stop by simply because they’ve heard of her hospitality and the shop’s friendly atmosphere. They rarely leave empty handed. After all, placing an Icelandic Santa on your Christmas tree every year is a great way to remember your visit to Iceland.
Dóra took over her father’s workshop in 1970 and relocated it, opening her company called Gullkistan, on Frakkastígur street in Reykjavík. Her expertise is national costume jewellery, or filigree, a delicate kind of jewellery metalwork, usually of gold and silver. Outstanding skills can be seen in her superb work, honouring Icelandic tradition. Dóra likes to work with very old jewellery templates, often well over 100 years old. She has always actively participated i n e x h ibit ion s, bot h nat iona l ly a nd internationally, and served as a chairman of
www.icelandictimes.com
the FIG (Icelandic Goldsmiths Foundation) from 1974-75, being the first Nordic woman to take that position. A true artist, she has always striven to put national crafts in a new context and associate her designs with modern trends which combine the artist’s desire to experiment with a thorough knowledge of templates and patterns of the past. –
Gullkistan Frakkastíg 10 • 101 Reykjavík
+354 551 3160
gullkistan@vortex.is www.thjodbuningasilfur.is
SP
An Icelandic Icon
Café Paris is the Heart of Reykjavik City
T
he spacious but intimate Café Paris is a café and a restaurant known for first-class service and bistro-style meals, primarily made using fresh local produce, in the heart of the city centre, Austurvöllur. Austurvöllur is Iceland’s Champ du Mars, where locals relax on warm summer afternoons, overlooked by the Icelandic House of Parliament, and the Cathedral Church, Dómkirkjan. Its long history and esteemed reputation has contributed to it being one of the most successful restaurants and cafés in all of Iceland. Last year, Café Paris celebrated its twentieth anniversary and guests were asked for their feedback to help the management continue to offer the highest standards. Ca fé Pa ris ha s a professiona l sta f f providing great service, knowledgeable about the menu, wine, cocktail and coffee selections and its mouth-watering desserts.
A Landmark for all
A Weekend Hotspot
Eat in style
C a fé Pa r i s c ater s to a l l a g e s a nd nationalities. Café Paris may seem to be a Parisian café in Reykjavík but local culinary traditions and fresh Icelandic produce are at the heart of this Reykjavík bistro.
Café Paris is a city landmark meaning different things to different people. It’s a place where artists contemplate in solitude, where writers busily document t heir thoughts on a laptop, where politicians escape heated debates and share a quiet moment together, where young adults giggle and smile over Mocha and sweetened Latte, where young mothers share a slice of a homemade chocolate cake and creamy coffee, where students gather to celebrate and where hungr y travellers come to experience the Icelandic bistro culture. In summer, the tables outdoors facing the Parliament are always packed. Sheltered from the North Atlantic breeze, days of sunshine in the very heart of the city are hard to resist, and the well-trained and experienced staff make sure no one goes hungry or thirsty. There is nothing like the house white wine boiled mussels and a glass of Pinot Grigio on a beautiful summer’s day, or a succulent burger with a bun fresh out of the oven and ice-cold beer. For dessert, the house speciality is a French chocolate cake—freshly baked in house— and best served with deluxe coffee. The well kept secret recipe is legendary in Reykjavík.
www.icelandictimes.com
Come the weekend, Café Paris turns into a sophisticated bar with live jazz music playing from 11 pm. The atmosphere is a unique fusion of a Parisian jazz club and a sophisticated Icelandic wine bar. The wide variety of imaginative cocktails is the creation of ambitious bartenders who aim to impress with their blend of rich flavours.
–
JB
Café Paris Austurstræti 14 • 101 Reykjavik
+354 551 1020 cafeparis@cafeparis.is www.cafeparis.is
17
To u r i s m , C u lt u r e
and
Business
I s s u e 19 • 2013
Sailors and Storms Immerse yourself in Maritime History
T
he Icelandic people have experienced the sea for centuries as both a nourishing mother and a cruel predator. Rich fishing grounds helped them survive on this rough island, but countless fishermen also lost their lives in the unpredictable oceans. Families
left behind continued the hard fisherman’s life. Even women, out of sheer necessity, went fishing at times and formed the backbone of the fish processing industry for many decades.
Experience the life of the past
The Icelandic Maritime Museum tells a story of struggle with the elements. A permanent exhibition stocked by a large number of original items from the seafarers’ lives can be experienced. Standing on the reconstructed quay, immersed in the life of the old Reykjavík harbour, or watching movies about fishing 100 years ago is as impressive as trying out the old equipment in order to get a feeling for how a fisherman’s life might have been.
A heroic rescuer and defender
A more modern seafaring flavour is set by the Óðinn, Iceland’s first Coast Guard vessel, now retired on the museum’s wharf that can be explored on guided tours daily. Óðinn’s 46-year history tells about spectacular rescues as well as about her role in the so-called Cod Wars, when the ship expelled British trawlers from Icelandic fishing grounds. In the hall next to the museum café you will find current exhibitions. End your stay in the inspiring museum’s café with its spacious terrace and enjoy the view over Reykjavík’s beautiful harbour. –
DT
ReykjavíkMaritimeMuseum Grandagarður 8 • 101 Reykjavík
+354 517 9400
sjominjasafn@sjominjasafn.is www.sjominjasafn.is
Spreading the Taste
You Can Enjoy Authentic Thai Food In Reykjavík or Akureyri
T
he discovery of the wonderful flavours in genuine Thai food only reached Iceland in 2001 when, down by the Old Harbour in a cosy, small white building, Krua Thai first started the taste revolution. For hundreds of
years, Icelanders had grown accustomed to a rather bland diet, so the introduction of Thai cuisine had a major impact. Ic e l a nd e r s h a v e a r e put a t i on f or pioneering and they plunged into this new taste sensation with gusto. A second restaurant opened in Bæjarlind, near the Smáralind shopping centre, also providing home deliveries. Take away also gained great popularity and now you can find the same delicious menu in Krua Siam in Akureyri, close to the harbour. With prices set so that a whole family can eat for less than a single person would pay in fancy restaurant, you can understand its popularity.
Krua Thai’s cuisine is unique as it blends authentic Thai cooking with all its special spices and ingredients imported directly from Thailand with Icelandic meats and vegetables. As the food is prepared to order, it reaches you with all the flavour as fresh as possible. It has proven a popular spot for visiting Thai tourists for good reason. The Thai-Icelandic blend is truly a delicious experience and one that any Thai food afficianado should savour while here. –
Krua Thai Tryggvagötu 14 • 101 Reykjavík
+354 561 0039 kruathai@kruathai.is www.kruathai.is
18
www.icelandictimes.com
ASF
In Akureyri Hrísalundur 1b Charity sh op open Weekdays 13-18 Saturdays 13-18 Phone: 46 2 4433
In Reykjavík Garðastræti 6 open Charity shop -18 Weekdays 13 3277 Phone: 561
In Reykjavík Eyjaslóð 7, by the harbou r Charity shop open Weekdays 13 -18
In Reykjavík Álfabakka 12 at Mjódd Charity shop open Tues - Fri 13-18 Phone: 844 6188
Phone: 858 5908
Get a Bargain and Make a Difference by Supporting the Salvation Army’s Youth and Welfare Programme! Hjálpræðisherinn • Kirkjustræti 2 • 101 Reykjavík • 552 0788 • Island@herinn.is • www.herinn.is
T
hrough windows that stretch from floor to ceiling, you can view the spectacular sights that Iceland is so famous for from an entirely different perspective. While the people on the ground run around like ants, with only a limited view, soaring above them, you can truly take in the magnificent panoramas.
Time is short
Visiting Iceland, your time is necessarily limited and you want to make the most of it. Trips that might take all day in a coach can be accomplished in a matter of hours with time at more sites.
Specialists in photography
Since you are not restricted to following the roads when flying in a helicopter, a whole new world of sights is opened up to you. You go places that even off-road jeeps never reach. Taking to the air offers a realm of unique photo opportunities that those on the ground would never even dream of. Different perspectives and angles, the play of light and shadow all take on a new dimension never seen by the earth-bound cameraman.
20
The Big Bell
Flying in a helicopter today is an experience in comfort travel. The new Bell 407 has a spacious cabin, comfortable seating and those big windows onto the world below. Seating up to six passengers, it’s a great opportunity for a family or incentive group. Helo has two other helicopters and all three can provide either group or exclusive flights.
Tours of a lifetime
There are four tours that are especially popular. The Reykjavík Panorama is a halfhour view of the capital from the air in which passengers can see everything from fishermen’s houses to the mountains of Esja. The Geothermal Wilderness tour takes you further to Hvalfjörður fjord, where Allied ships prepared for the dangerous Atlantic crossing in the 1940s, before taking in the beautiful Glymur waterfall, the tallest in Iceland. On to Þingvellir, where the world’s longest running parliament first met. From the air, the view of the earth’s surface, as the American and European tectonic plates pull apart is unique. On
the south side of Þingvallavatn lake lie the geothermal plants providing eco-friendly heat and hot water to Reykjavík from the hot volcanic rocks deep under the surface.
The Golden Experience
This flight takes in the sights of the Golden Circle—and a lot more. Spectacular from the air, you see the same fjord and waterfall before landing on Langjökull glacier, from which you can see both the Arctic Sea to the north and the Atlantic to the south on a clear day. Then, it’s on to see the mighty Gulfoss waterfall, lunching at Geysir before heading back to Þingvellir, the lake and geothermal areas. In about 3 hours, you get to take in more than road-based tours do in 12, with more flexibility and certainly, amazing views.
Prepare to be Amazed
Helofliesyouintopanoramasonlyvisiblefromtheair
Fulfilling a Dream
The Volcanic Adventure
Image by © Ingi R. Ingason
This flies you to the notorious volcanos in South Iceland that brought air travel to a halt. Landing close to the Fimmvörðuháls volcano, you’ll feel the ground, still hot from the eruptions.
S
ometimes, people have ‘impossible dreams’. Take, for instance, the ‘Bucket List’ wish of one man to take in the view from the top of Iceland’s highest peak, Hvannadalshnúkur, rising up from the midst of Vatnajökull’s vast ice sheet. For a fit person, it would be a challenge but, for this man, crippled by a devastating disease and now bound to a wheelchair,
it could have seemed an impossibility. However, his colleagues decided that, with help from Helo, it would happen. T he d re a m c a me t r u e a s , one brilliantly sunny day, Helo’s helicopter lifted off with this courageous man and, about half an hour later, he was on top of the mountain, his dream fulfilled, surveying a view only few get to see.
The Exclusive Flights
Offering both freedom and flexibility, you can go where and for as long as you like, creating your own experience. You could have lunch on a glacier, for example, or swim in a hot pool or dine at a fine country restaurant, as the sun sinks low on the horizon. It’s your choice—and the experienced staff will not only make it possible but will give you background information, too.
Book ahead
You can imagine, the trips are very popular— especially in summer, so it’s wise to contact Helo in advance to book the tour of your choice. –
ASF
Helo–Helicopter Service of Iceland Mörkin 3 • 104 Reykjavík
+354 561 6100 disa@helo.is www.helo.is
21
To u r i s m , C u lt u r e
and
Business
I s s u e 19 • 2013
Living in the Lava
The town where they live with Hidden People and boiling pools
V
isitors to Iceland expect something different. They’ve heard about the volcanos. Then, there are the stranger stories... Take Hafnarfjörður, the small town you reach first when you come from the airport. It has a colourful history, being one of the oldest communities. It’s a fishing town, but that’s only part of the story. Built literally in and on the lava that flowed from the Búrfell volcano, you’ll quickly notice the huge, black rocks, craters and caves out of which houses peek. The whole area is a massive lava and geothermal area.
Home for the Huldufólk, too
Image by © Þorsteinn Gunnar Kristjánsson
Exploring the town, you’ll come to a quiet street and Hellisgerði Park. It’s a magical place, known for its elves, dwarves and other mystical beings. It’s easy to imagine these ‘huldufólk’ living here amidst the lava rocks that fold and twist, forming tiny caves and strange shapes. Beside the pond winds a pathway past the rocks, many coloured
with bright emerald or contrasting olive coloured moss. But, for many people, this is not the place of myth but of another world that occasionally reveals itself. A number of these people have recounted meetings these beings. There are two tours that explain more about this park that is celebrating it’s 90th anniversary in 2013.
other museums, art and cultural centres are, as well as all that can be enjoyed and The town is a vibrant centre. Besides experienced during your stay in the town. the sports and the geothermally heated And it is a town you will want to stay in. swimming pools, it has a rich cultural life. Its museums are spread in different buildings On fire in the basement across the town, adding authenticity to the Geothermal means heat from the ground history they portray. Take the Pakkhúsið or —and there’s plenty of evidence of it here, warehouse, for example. A typical Icelandic along with where it came from. At Krýsuvík, bu ild ing, it d isplays t wo perma nent a little outside the town, are steaming mud exhibitions, the history of the town and pools, bubbling hot springs, brilliantly one of classic children’s toys and lifestyle coloured lakes - all surrounded by equally items from the past and a third exhibition brilliantly coloured hills. Hikers who climb whose theme changes throughout the year. up to the top of the hill are rewarded by You’ll also find a Tourist Information the sight of the spectacular steaming vent Office here that will explain where all the and the view of ocean, fields and lakes. Well-maintained boardwalks wind through the area - but don’t try to touch the pools. Remember where they’re coming from! These lava fields make for a marvellous hiking area, with mountains like Helgafell, with its panoramic view of the peninsula or the Krýsuvíkurberg cliffs, teaming with birdlife.
Art, Culture and a Living Past
–
Hafnarfjarðarbær Strandgötu 6 • 220 Hafnarfirði
+354 585 5500
info@hanfarfjordur.is www.visithafnarfjordur.is
22
www.icelandictimes.com
ASF
The Warmth of Iceland All-Icelandic wool products from Varma
O
ne might wonder how Icelanders have kept warm through the years on a seemingly barren arctic island. ‘Varma – the warmth of Iceland’ has the answer with its brand of wool products made entirely in Iceland and based on the traditional skills and craftsmanship that kept Icelanders warm during the hardships of past winters. The main focus of Varma is on Icelandic wool, but other types of wool like angora
and lambs’ wool are also used in production. Varma offers a wide range of woollen goods, from socks, gloves, shawls and hats to sweaters and cardigans. Being the only manufacturer in Iceland using Icelandic sheepskin, you can also find items like vests, mittens, hats, collars and bags in the collection. Varma also offers a little home collection with woollen blankets, pillows and cushions from sheepskin and a traditional Icelandic guestbook coated in sheepskin.
Varma is produced by Glófi, one of the leading manufacturers of woollen goods and traditional sheepskin products in Iceland with production facilities in three different locations in Iceland. Varma’s products are produced in a sustainable and eco-friendly manner and at the same time with an emphasis on classic virtues of traditional quality and style. Varma is thus committed to continuous improvement and development in design and usage of material with respect for its heritage and tradition. –
VAG
Varma-Glófi Auðbrekka 21 • 200 Kópavogur
+354 464 7302 birgitta@varma.is www.varma.is
Fjörukráin A Viking village, set in the heart of Hafnarfjörður, Fjörukráin consists of two restaurants, where you will be served and entertained by Viking-clothed staff. There is also a modern hotel and 14 Viking cottages, with all modern conveniences. Strandgata 55 • 220 Hafnarfjörður
+354 565 1213
vikings@vikingvillage.is
www.fjorukrain.is
Lana Matuša studio gallery Ceramic sculptures Oil and acryl paintings Ceramic pictures Drawings Inspired with Icelandic nature Skólavörðustig 41 • 101 Reykjavik
+354 551 5799
lana_matusa@yahoo.com
www.icelandictimes.com
www.svetlanamatusa.com
23
To u r i s m , C u lt u r e
and
I s s u e 19 • 2013
Business
tours. They can handle every aspect of your stay—and they do it with style. They don’t charge extra for all the planning involved and go out of their way to make your stay as successful as possible, filled with humour, stories, explanations—and consideration.
It Begins Before You Leave
Your adventure and fun will begin before you even leave home as they work with you to make your visit everything and more than you desire, from meeting you at the airport to the guided tours in anything from luxury cars to comfortable mini-buses.
Touring with a Friend
Let’s Get Personal
When they put your personalised tour together, they provide you with a welcome Gateway to Iceland offers standard day- package with your plans, maps, activities tours to the key Icelandic destinations and and a lot of helpful information. They make airport shuttle service as well as tailor made themselves available, just as a friend would. As a result, you have a real holiday, free from stress and worry in some of the world’s most spectacular scenery.
There’s no stress when someone knows their way around
G
ateway to Iceland is the only tour op er ator i n Ic e l a nd to re c eive TripAdvisor’s Certificate for Excellence for the three years it has been awarded. The reason is that people appreciate the personalised service. When somebody posts, “...it truly felt like we had a friend who was taking us around on a personal tour” and others echo their sentiments, you know they’re special. It’s a lot more fun, that way, too.
–
Hyrjarhofdi 4 • 110 Reykjavík
+354 534 4446
info@gatewatytoiceland.is www.gatewaytoiceland.is
Folk Museum in Eyrarbakki The Southcoast Museum Árnessýsla folk museum is the historical home that the Danish merchants built in 1765, called Húsið, the House. Húsið is one of the oldest houses in Iceland and a beautiful monument of Eyrarbakki’s time as the biggest trading centre on the south coast. Today, one can enjoy exhibitions about the story and culture of the region. A famous piano, a shawl made out of human hair and the king’s pot, are among items on view. Húsið prides itself on its warm and homelike atmosphere. Opening hours: Summer: May 15th - September 15th daily 11.00-18.00 or by agreement Winter: By agreement
BanThai
Open 18.00–22.00.
Laugavegur 130, ofan við Hlemm
www.yummy.is
Hverfisgata 123 við Hlemm and Smáralind
One price 1000 kr.
YumFoodmi YumThaimiFusion
we recommend.......
Address: “The House” 820 Eyrarbakki Tel: +354 483 1504 & +354 483 1082 e-mail: husid@husid.com • www.husid.com
24
ASF
Gateway to Iceland
tel: 692-0564
1/10 The Best Restaurant in Iceland
the best thai food
year 2009,2010,2011 and 2012 Ban Thai is the finest thai restaurant in Iceland www.icelandictimes.com
Daytrips.is AT ICELAND TOURS
We visit: Daily, year round Golden Circle, National park, Blue Lagoon, Landmannalaugar, Þórsmörk, Snæfellsnes, Borgarfjörður, South Coast, Glacial Lagoon
Guided day trips from Reykjavík By 4x4 SuperJeep: Groups 1-7 persons By luxury coach: Groups 8-62 persons Bogabraut 12 • 245 Sandgerði info@daytrips.is
+ 354 899 6312 www.daytrips.is
BOOK NOW!
To u r i s m , C u lt u r e
and
Business
I s s u e 19 • 2013
A Wish Come True Your Wishlist at Óskalist
F
or the mother-and-daughter run gallery Óskalist, creating personal art from their immediate surroundings is a wish come true. Their delightfully whimsical painted rock houses are a result of them scouring nearby beaches for uniquely shaped
2cosyapartments home accommodation offers two well equipped, private apartments with private entrance in a calm neighbourhood in the beautiful town of Mosfellbær. Regular bus to city centre. Bæjarás 5 • 270 Mosfellsbæ gudrun.elsa.g@gmail.com
+354 611 8699 www.2cosyapartments.com
rocks, which they transform into one-of-akind decorative statuettes. Valdís Ósk, co-founder of Óskalist, says that they almost always manage to see some form in the rocks they come across and take great joy in working the original natural shape into the final piece. “We usually let the shape itself define how we work on each piece. We don’t even mind if the stones are a bit odd or uneven, just as long as they stand on their own. That way each piece has its own character and we can safely say that no two pieces are even remotely alike,” says Valdís Ósk. Valdís Ósk and daughter Karen Ósk reside in Kjalarnes, overlooking the bay toward Reykjavik. They always wished to intertwine
their love for their home and their artistic talents. Valdís jokingly explains that the name of the company reflects that combination; as “ósk” literally means “wish” and “list” means “art” in Icelandic – both mother and daughter even have “wish” as their middle name. Their gallery in Grundarhverfi is a perfect stop, just north of Reykjavík, on your way to or from the city. Valdís Ósk and Karen Ósk welcome visitors into their gallery, and are more than happy to show them around the area. It might be safer to call ahead. They only accept cash, as they like to keep things simple and cosy. –
VAG
Óskalist Gallery Búagrund 13 • 116 Kjalarnes
+354 566 6035 frontlist@front.is www.front.is/list
The White Knight Hvíti Riddarinn - A fully licensed restaurant and bar Delicious food at fair prices. Fish, meat, pizzas and hamburgers
Háholti 13 • 270 Mosfellsbær • Tel. (+354) 5666 222 • hvitiriddarinn@hvitiriddarinn.is • www.hvitiriddarinn.is
Snorri Travel
Bus Rental Tour Operator
www.snorritravel.is 26
www.icelandictimes.com
From Hunters to Home
Palli now makes knives and forks for the kitchen and dining room
L
ong known for his beautifully crafted hunting knives of various sizes, each with its own handmade handle, Palli is now creating works of art for the kitchen—and soon for the dining room—that any cook or hostess will be proud to own.
Made with rare materials
Ornately engraved knives and forks— including kitchen and carving knives are now receiving Palli‘s unique craftsmanship. What makes his knives special is that he diligently sources his materials, researches the best methods for making long-lasting handles that are comfortable and safe to use —often from rare materials sourced from all over the world. Frequently, he blends different materials such as reindeer antler, goat horn, a hippo‘s tooth or a horse‘s hoof with wood such as ebony, elm or even fossilized wood that has been carefully dried over a period of years to harden it for a handle.
Now for cooks and diners
Recently, Palli worked with one of the best Damascus steel blade makers to bring their crafts first to the kitchen and soon, also to the dining room. With typical care and research, he is producing a range of initially, 4 kitchen knives, to be followed by a full dining cutlery set, using his 66 year-old dentist drill that he brought out of retirement for carving the handles and creating both individual pieces and sets that will be a conversation piece in dining rooms around the world.
Created for Connoisseurs
Inspired by a waterfall
You c a n f i nd Pa l l i i n h i s st ud io i n Mosfellsbær, right beside the Á lafoss waterfall and the famous mill of the same name, just a 15 minute drive from the centre of Reykjavik. He is open from 11:30 am to 11 pm. His knives can also be found at the Brynja hardware store at Laugavegur 29, on the main shopping street in downtown Reykjavik or ordered online.
Custom made for years of use
If you have specific materials you would like your hunting, kitchen or car ving knife to be made from—or the dining cutlery, you can always let him know. Many knives are made to order and every one is individual and unique.
As a result of his passion for excellence and enthusiasm for creating a work of art from a tempered steel blade and these different handles, his knives are now to be found in over 85 countries, in use by hunters who appreciate these qualities. When he creates a special knife, there is often a lot of bidding for it on the internet, such is the demand for them.
–
ASF
Palli the Knife Maker Álafossvegur 29 • 270 Mosfellsbæ
+354 899 6903 palli@knifemaker.is www.knifemaker.is
www.icelandictimes.com
27
To u r i s m , C u lt u r e
and
Business
I s s u e 19 • 2013
Duty Free the Icelandic Way
Start your Icelandic journey in the unique Duty Free Arrival Store
F
requent flyers know the ropes. They get through Passport Control and Customs and head to the Duty Free stores. They need to think. Are they entitled to it or not? Then, laden with bags, they struggle to the plane, shoving their precious cargo into alreadystuffed overhead lockers. At the end of their flight, they lug the same bags down miles of walkways, stairs and escalators, before picking up their luggage and struggling to the taxis, coaches or trains, hoping they don’t drop or break the bottles on the way.
Iceland-a Different Way
The Vikings do things differently. At the International Airport at Keflavik, you will find a rare opportunity: a Duty Free Store in the Arrivals section right at the luggage pick-up point, where there are trolleys available. Mere feet from the luggage carousels, passengers
28
can shop at huge discounts compared to city countries’ airports–and it includes the prices, especially on wines, spirits and tobacco international award-winning Egils Gull products. Before their luggage arrives, they have beer-and all at a much reduced price. done their shopping and saved a lot of money. Cosmetic s, confectioner y, tobacco products, toys and electronic products – Don’t lug it with you-get it here including the latest DVD titles–are all Opened in 1970, the Arrivals Duty Free available at discounted prices, so it is a good Shop was an instant success with passengers. time to take advantage of the opportunity With the airport expansion in 2008, it was to get low prices on things you want to use enlarged to accommodate a much larger during your visit. Here you will find all the range of international and Icelandic brands, top brands at knock-down prices. Think of providing an opportunity to offer a very it as a holiday discount! good selection of products. New changes this June bring a new buying experience, No Discrimination—Duty Free for all with the wines and spirits easily visible at Icelanders don’t mind which country you’re the front of the shop and branded gondolas coming from or going to: the Duty Free so it’s easier to make your choice. discount applies equally to all travellers. Today, the Dut y Free shop has the You don’t need to worry about buying largest range of wines, spirits and beers in Icelandic currency first, either, as all major the country–larger, even, than many other cards are accepted at the checkout.
www.icelandictimes.com
Go Home well stocked
Of course, most of the things you buy in the Arrivals Duty Free will probably be finished by the end of your visit and you will be looking for something special to remember your trip and for gifts to loved ones and children. There is a large Duty Free Store in the Departures Lounge for those uniquely Icelandic items and a wide range of international brands that make perfect gifts and souvenirs that is worth paying a visit. Duty Free fashion clothing by Burberry, Mulberry and Boss and a special range of clothing by Icelandic designers are on sale. Unlike most other modern airports, the walk to the plane is short and trolleys can carry the load almost to the planes. Passengers from non-Schengen countries do not even have to carry their goods from the Departure Lounge as there is a shop close to their planes with the same products and prices.
–
ASF
Duty Free Keflavíkairport • 235 Reykjanesbæ
+354 425 0410 dutyfree@dutyfree.is www.dutyfree.is
www.icelandictimes.com
29
To u r i s m , C u lt u r e
and
Business
I s s u e 19 • 2013
Kvikan has the Answers A House of Culture and Natural Resources
W
hen visitors come to Iceland they are usually f irst greeted by the lunar-like landscape of the Reykjanes peninsula as they make their way from the airport. The feeling of having landed on the moon is quite understandable, but these first impressions often leave visitors with a handful of questions about life in such foreign conditions – questions that are all answered in Kvikan – House of Culture and Natural Resources in Grindavík. Kvikan houses exhibitions about two of Iceland’s more important natural resources, the salted cod and geothermal energy, which give a unique insight into how life started and developed on the volcanic peninsula. As the name implies, it will additionally serve as a centre to preserve and develop the area’s resources and culture, ranging from fully utilizing their fish to celebrating their first honorary citizen – celebrated author Guðbergur Bergsson.
30
water and laid the foundation for the now world famous Blue Lagoon, all of which is explained in the exhibition.
A Battle of Sea and Fire
The Earth Energy exhibition answers many of first-time visitors’ questions about the very beginning, as it details how Iceland came into being through the battle between the sea and fire. It demonstrates interactively how the plates on the earth’s crust affect the
Life is Cod
Before the Blue Lagoon was built, life on the peninsula was quite different, as you will see in the Salfisksetrið exhibition that takes you through the history of Iceland’s salted cod industry. Cod was the backbone of Iceland’s development, as it proved to be one of the country’s most valuable exports and life seemed to revolve only around this seemingly simple product. To understand the inseparable ties of salted cod to the Icelandic psyche, the exhibition takes you through the entire history and process of cod fishing, processing and selling, from the sea, to the docks and all the way to Portuguese country with volcanic activity and powerful markets, as it were. – VAG earthquakes and takes you all the way up to when man started harnessing this immense Kvikan Auðlind power. The area’s geothermal energy has Hafnargata 12a • 240 Grindavík +354 420 1190 become a substantial part of Grindavík’s kvikan@grindavik.is www.kvikan.com daily life, as it supplies them with hot
www.icelandictimes.com
To u r i s m , C u lt u r e
and
Business
I s s u e 19 • 2013
Connected by Energy and History
A New Path Between The Blue Lagoon and Grindavík village officially opened
T
he fishing town of Grindavík and the world famous Blue Lagoon have been linked together by geography, geology and history from the beginning, but it wasn’t until earlier this year that they were connected by an actual path. Last May, the five kilometrelong two-part path was officially named, giving visitors and locals a chance to travel between the two locations, while enjoying the fantastic surrounding scenery.
The Contest
The township of Grindavík put up a contest to find the best names for the paths and the winning suggestions are well fitting. The path from the Blue Lagoon right up to the Selskógur forest is aptly named Energy Lane, due to the harnessing of the rich geothermal energy in the area on which the Blue Lagoon is based. From Selskógur to Grindavík village, the path was given the name Ingibjörg Lane. Ingibjörg was a local woman and a community leader who, at the age of sixty, decided to utilize a fund dedicated to her to plant a forest at the foothills of Þorbjörn Mountain. In 1957 she planted the first tree
32
in an area she called Selskógur. The area has since become a cherished nature resort for the local people and leads up to several hiking paths on Þorbjörn Mountain.
What makes Grindavík interesting
Grindavík is one of the true Icelandic fishing towns, where the harbour area is the life of the town and worth a visit in its own right. Around the harbour area you’ll find cafés, museums and a chance to see the everyday work of Icelandic fishermen as they bring in the day’s catch. For the gourmands, there is no lack of exciting culinary experiences to be found and, as is to be expected, the fish doesn’t get any fresher than in the quality restaurants of Grindavík.
In addition, there are plenty of exhilarating activities available in Grindavík, such as Quadbike tours, cave exploring and horseback riding tours in the nearby lava fields. Then, there is the informative House of Culture and Natural Resources named Kvikan where you can learn all about how the Blue Lagoon came into being and the area’s rich cultural history. With Ingibjörg Lane and Energy Lane, the Blue Lagoon has now become a part of a much bigger journey that takes you closer to the heart of the area’s immense energy, history and culture. –
Grindavíkurbær Víkurbraut 62 • 240 Grindavík
+354 420 1100
grindavik@grindavik.is www.visitgrindavik.is
www.icelandictimes.com
VAG
My suggestion: don’t leave without having a bowl of their soup. It’s really good. While I was there, one of the owners was spending time with visiting tourists, explaining the area and showing them on a map the best places to visit. It’s in the evenings and on weekends that things really take off. It’s a small place but packed with character. A piano in the corner The reputation of Bryggjan netmakers’ café is spreading fast is often pressed into use, making it a fun and alk down by Grindavík’s harbour This is a fishing town and the café is a inspiring evening. Whether you are a local and you may see the nets. Then you fisherman’s café - though, with the growing or just visiting, you’ll feel at home. – ASF know you’re there. Bryggjan’s main work number of visitors from all over the world is repairing fishing nets and lines - nets finding it, it is quickly becoming the café Café Bryggjan that would completely cover the nearby of choice in the area. Little wonder, as the Miðgarði 2 • 240 Grindavík +354 426 7100 mountain and lines that would stretch help and friendliness of the owners is only kaffibryggjan@simnet.is www.kaffibryggjan.is beyond Reykjavik, over 50 km away. matched by the delicious food they offer.
Images © Gabriel Rutenberg
Grindavík’s Harbour Café W
Cod at its Freshest in Grindavík
Salthúsið Restaurant takes this famous fish to a new level of taste
C
all it bacalao, salted cod, morue or saltfisk in Icelandic, the cod fish was so important to Iceland’s economy that it featured prominently on the Icelandic Coat of Arms. The Salthúsið (Salt House) Restaurant of Grindavík is the f irst restaurant in Iceland specialising in the lowly codfish, bringing it up to new heights. Once the staple of the poor, baccalao h a s b e en a c e lebr ate d i n g re d ient i n
Mediterranean, African, and Caribbean cuisine for many centuries. Benefiting from its proximity to the sea, Salthusið’s á la carte menu features beautifully presented seafood that couldn’t be more fresh: whether it’s cod, haddock or catfish or even lobster—it all depends on the ‘catch of the day’. Not a fish lover? The menu also features items such as marinated fillet of lamb, beef tenderloin and BBQ ribs amongst others.
www.icelandictimes.com
Linger over a glass of wine from Salthusið’s extensive wine list while listening to the soft ambient music in front of the wood-burning stove in the dining room that serves to warm and brighten those rainy days that are sometimes a part of life in Grindavík. Aside from the á la carte evening menu, there is more casual fare for the lunch crowd, a café with free Internet access and a bar which is popular with the locals on weekends. Salthusið Restaurant, just 5 minutes drive from the internationally acclaimed Blue Lagoon, is housed in a warm and inviting log house, made of solid Estonian pine. The restaurant, spanning 2 f loors, is an elegant venue for banquets, parties, c on f e r e nc e s a nd r e c e pt i on d i n ne r s accommodating a total of 200 guests. The large premises can host conferences, work shops a nd meetings in 3 dining rooms, each with its own separate sound system, wireless Internet and an overhead projection system. – EMV
Salthúsið caktus Stamphólsvegur 2 • 240 Grindavík
+354 426 9700 salthusid@salthusid.is www.salthusid.is
33
To u r i s m , C u lt u r e
and
Business
I s s u e 19 • 2013
TheRawEarth
Ghosts,caves,cracksintheEarth,boilingpools,aspaandvolcanosafaris
34
R
eykjanes, where the Kef lavik International Airport is situated, is one of the most overlooked areas when it comes to visitors. The drive into Reykjavik doesn’t reveal much, except a column of steam rising from the lava fields in the distance from the famous Blue Lagoon spa. However, Iceland is the land of hidden secrets that are being revealed step by step. Iceland Excursions helps you discover some of them yourself on their different Reykjanes tours.
Iceland in a Day
A typical visitor to Iceland spends a week or two in the country. When they return home, it is usually with the vision to get back to see more. There is just so much to see, it is physically impossible to see all you would like to in a short time. I have found that Reykjanes encapsulates the key elements that make Iceland such a popular destination. You can see history, culture, nature, unusual geological features and enjoy life-changing experiences - while having a lot of fun at the same time. If you’re a photographer, you’ll be in your element. One of the first settlers came to Sandgerði, where he found the fishing plentiful. Despite the violent, rough winter storms, this is still one of the most fruitful fishing grounds today and it’s the first stop of this tour, which then continues over Miðnesheiði moor to the old stone Hvalneskirkja church, where Hallgrímur Pétursson first became known as both a powerful preacher and poet. It’s history will give you a poignant and sympathetic insight into the rigours of life in 19th century Iceland.
Torn between continents
The tour then takes you to the rugged tear in the earth that is the rift between the European and American tectonic plates. Here you can stand on the bridge spanning two continents, which are pulling apart from each other. There are few places on Earth where you can see something like this.
Salvation for sailors and a ghost’s demise
One of the oldest lighthouses stands at Reykjanesviti, from where the isle of Eldey can be seen rising from the waves on a clear day. The home of thousands of birds, it’s a popular place to visit but, today, we are off to see a legend: Gunnuhver. This boiling hot pool, surrounded by an array startlingly coloured rocks and sediment, also has a history. A troublesome ghost was causing havoc in the area until a priest laid a trap for her and she fell into the bubbling hot spring.
Choice at the Blue Lagoon
After the morning’s activities, it’s time for a break at the Blue Lagoon. If you want to just go to the Blue Lagoon first, there are trips leaving Reykjavik straight there. While you buy your lunch or ticket to soak in the spa, you can think about the afternoon. Iceland Excursions offers a range of options. You could simply return to Reykjavik - boring! You could spend the afternoon in the Blue Lagoon and take a later coach back - relaxing! Or you could take a trip to the lunar landscape of Krýsuvík and the Kleifarvatn Lake with their boiling mud pools and dramatic landscape after a stop
in the fishing village of Grindavík. Or, you could go underground into the amazing lava tube caves and craters, with their amazing formations and colours, natural phenomena and sights. Alternatively, you could take a thrilling ride on an ATV on a volcanic safari through the lava fields and mountains above ground. Those both offer quite a thrilling experience!
The Golden Circle
Lastly, leaving Reykjanes, you could take an afternoon tour around the Golden Circle to see the famous UNESCO World Heritage site of Þingvellir, where the world’s longest running parliament, Iceland’s Alþing, was originally held and where, again, you can see the splitting tectonic plates before moving on to the spectacular geothermal area of Geysir. Here you can see a dramatically coloured landscape, dotted with pools of iridescent blue water and the famous Geysir steam spout. It is not very active currently but its neighbour, Strokkur, more than makes up for it, in towering eruptions every few minutes. The tour then moves on to the powerful, stepped Gullfoss waterfa ll, where the waters from the Highland glaciers form the Hvítá - the White River which plunges down over the rocks into a steep ravine, sending up a spray that creates rainbows in the afternoon sunshine. It’s a stirring sight of nature’s raw power. If you’re short on time and want to take in as much as possible in one day, these tours from Iceland Excursions offer a lot. – ASF
Iceland Excusions Hafnarstræti 20 • 101 Reykjavík
+354 540 1313 iceland@grayline.is www.grayline.is
35
Reykjanes Peninsula
the vibrant towns by the airport
HOTEL BERG A beautiful tranquil hotel overlooking a small harbour 5 min walk from best restaurants in town Soothing hot tub. Free WiFi Private bathroom in every room Close to the airport, Blue Lagoon and other sites Free transport to and from the airport TripAdvisor Certificate of Excellence 2012 Bakkavegur 17 • 230 Reykjanesbær berg@hotelberg.is
+354 422 7922 www.hotelberg.is
SKARTSMIÐJAN Custom-made fashion jewellery: Bracelets, brooches, necklaces and rings Jewellery supplies – buttons, sewing, knitting, tools, gift boxes, bags, keychains Sell woollens, leather and fish skin Hafnargata 35 • 230 Reykjanesbær kast@kast.is
36
www.icelandictimes.com
+354 421 5121 www.kast.is
Ráin
Restaurant Elegant and cosy restaurant, established in 1989 Expert in Icelandic raw materials, in all possible ways Personalised service Only 10 minutes from the international airport Hafnargata 19 • 230 Keflavik rain@rain.is
+354 421 4601 www.rain.is
Tveir Vitar
a cosy café & restaurant with views over the Atlantic Ocean. Only 10 minutes from the airport Garðbraut 100 • 250 Garður •+354 422 7214
Natural Pearl Garðskagi
The open-air museum in Garðskagi is located in a natural garden, which blends the beauty of the landscape with its rich animal and bird life. The museum has both a Folk and Maritime Museum and has an outstanding collection of machines. Open daily from 1 pm to 5 pm. From the terrace of the restaurant you can watch whales in their natural environment. One of the two lighthouses in the region is open to visitors. A campground offers affordable accommodation. Byggðasafn Garðskaga, Skagabraut 100 • 250 Garður gardskagi@simnet.is
www.icelandictimes.com
+354 422 7220 www.svgardur.is
37
To u r i s m , C u lt u r e
and
Business
I s s u e 19 • 2013
Four Star Comfort in Keflavík
HotelKeflavíkhasbeentransformedtomeettravellers’needstoday
H
otel Keflavík opened in 1986 and was the first 4 star hotel to open in Keflavík. It predominantly served the traveller who was just staying one night on arrival or before flying out. Since then, however, Iceland has gone from Iceland’s Best Kept Secret” to the “Destination of Choice”.
holiday to see Iceland‘s amazing sights and now has 70 comfortable rooms available. With its proximity to the airport, Keflavík is naturally a handy place to stay but it is its proximity to a wide range of sights and experiences that is making it so popular that many visitors now use it as their base.
Complete renovations
Great for Groups
in addition to the restaurant and bar. Its breakfasts, known to be among the best in Iceland, are served from 5 am especially for travellers leaving or arriving on a flight. The hotel offers a free transfer service by taxi to or from the airport. It‘s only a 5 minute drive, which is a real relief when you‘re tired or rushed.
The hotel was renovated, both inside and Incentive groups find the hotel especially out, this last winter to accommodate the convenient, as it can host meetings for up to burgeoning influx of visitors coming for a 60 with its separate dining room for groups
–
ASF
Hótel Keflavík Vatnsnesvegur 12-14 • 230 Keflavík
+354 420 7000 stay@kef.is www.kef.is
B lue C ar r e nt al Professional car rental agency located at Keflavík international airport Cars for every need and budget Nice and efficient staff at your service Hotel/guesthouse pick up and drop off at Keflavik airport, at Reykjavík or at the Blue lagoon Blikavellir 3 • 235 Keflavíkurflugvöllur blue@bluecarrental.is
+354 773 7070 www.bluecarrental.is
Guesthouse
BORG
Guesthouse Borg is open all year for you to enjoy our homely atmosphere. Guesthouse Borg is only 5 mins. drive from the Blue Lagoon and 20 mins. drive from the international airport. Guesthouse Borg is in the centre of the wonderful town of Grindavík where you can enjoy the hospitality of its people and its life. Borgarhraun 2 • 240 Grindavík bjorksv@simnet.is
38
www.icelandictimes.com
+354 895 8686 www.guesthouseborg.com
Burning Hot as the Sun
In their Keflavík studio, Ice Glass creates art in glass
W
Images © Gabriel Rutenberg
ith over 20 years experience working together, mother and son team of Gulla and Lárus are producing awesome works of art in glass in their small glass foundry, next to Kaffi Duus in Keflavik.
Playing with fire - skillfully
Glass making is highly technical science and art combined. With ovens burning as hot as the sun or a cooler 500°C, this is not work for the timid. Much of the skill of the glass maker lies in intuition and experience, in knowing at exactly what moment to work it. Not only that, but knowing what elements to add and how to add them and at exactly what moment is what marks the
artist as a master in his or her field. Gulla and Lárus are not shy about trying new ideas and experimenting with different materials –such as volcanic ash from the notorious Eyjafjallajökull eruption. Ice Glass is experimenting with recycling glass products rather than sending them to a landfill and creating beautiful and decorative works of art from them.
A gallery of light
The galler y offers a glimpse into the prodigious creative abilities of the artists–and you’re more than likely to find a use for a lot of the items in your home! Being glass, there is a special interplay of light and shadow. Knowing that most visitors return home heavy-laden, Ice Glass will ship anything that catches your fancy so it arrives safely. There’s nothing worse than buying a hand-made work of art and to find it in pieces when you get it home.
www.icelandictimes.com
Making it personal
The glass factory is open from 12-6pm weekdays and visitors are welcome. Not only do you get to look around at the wide range of creations but, if you have something in mind, they’ll try to make it for you on the spot. That makes it all the more personal and provides you with a meaningful memory of your visit. –
ASF
Ice Glass Grófin 2 • 230 Reykjanesbær
+354 857 0850 gulla@iceglass.is www.iceglass.is
39
To u r i s m , C u lt u r e
and
Business
I s s u e 19 • 2013
Dine 10 min from the Airport Vitinn, at Sandgerði’s harbour makes dining a delight
A
fter a long flight, getting your luggage and getting out of the airport at Kef lavík, that gnawing feeling in your stomach needs to be satisfied but you still have the trip to your hotel, checking in and so on–possibly an hour or more, at least. Less than 10 minutes drive away, however, is one of the most famous restaurants in Iceland. It is probably the only restaurant in all Europe to cook the delicious rock crab. Lunches and dinners here feature really fresh seafood. The
fishing boats deliver their catch only a few metres away from the restaurant itself, so you can see why. For those with a preference for meat, the roasted fillet of Icelandic lamb is highly recommended. Flights often arrive and depart early in Iceland, so Vitinn opens at 7 am to offer groups delicious breakfasts that will sustain them for hours to come. Here, again, the food is freshly cooked. Dining at Vitinn is a very inspiring introduction to Iceland. The restaurant interior, with its richly coloured wooden walls and beams, is adorned with mementos from both Sandgerði’s agricultural and seafaring past. In summer months, diners can enjoy their meals outside with a view over the harbour and sea, the clean and fresh air adding to the experience. –
ASF
Vitinn Vitatorg 7 • 245 Sandgerði
+354 423 7755 info@vitinn.is www.vitinn.is
Natural Creams
100% natural creams from herbs, hand-picked in the Reykjanes area, blended with organic oils. They have proven helpful with skin problems. The cold sore balm is a powerful, antiseptic healing ointment. The eczema cream is helpful with all sorts of eczemas. The lip balm helps with the healing of Herpes 1.
Gullkollur Hlíðargata 42 • 245 Sandgerði +354 895 7746 www.facebook.com/Gullkollur maggahk@visir.is
GK Ceramics Iceland Handmade
GK Ceramics is an open pottery and ceramics workshop close to Sandgerði harbour where you can see the artist at work and buy beautiful handmade pottery direct from the potter. Vitatorg 13 • 245 Sandgerði ggk@btnet.is
40
www.icelandictimes.com
+354 893 8812 on facebook
To u r i s m , C u lt u r e
and
Business
I s s u e 19 • 2013
Dine at Keflavík’s Harbour
Try Kaffi Duus’ rib safari boat tour followed by dinner with a view
Y
your meal and enjoying your drink, the sea outside will grab your full attention. Originally a small restaurant, it now hosts over 200 people and is a favourite with locals. The owner, Sigurbjörn built the house and all its interiors by himself, little by little over the past fifteen years. Sigurbjörn, like many other Icelanders, does not limit himself to one profession; apart from running a restaurant, he is educated as a carpenter. That certainly comes in handy when one wants to built a restaurant using wood!
Images by © Gabriel Rutenberg
ou could take a walk by the seaside and harbour of Keflavík, following a great meal in Kaffi Duus at either the very start or end of your journey to Iceland. Perhaps the unique element of visiting Iceland is the interrelation of everything; here, you’re only five minutes from the international airport yet you can find an authentic seaside experience. This warm restaurant is located by Keflavík’s small boat harbour, the very heart of the town. Thus, the view from Duus is inspiring, even hypnotizing; while eating
Such is the variety of food at Duus that everybody will find something to their liking. But the speciality is, of course, the fish. Whether you fancy a buttery lobster or the national dish, cod, Duus makes sure to produce a fairy-tale for your taste buds! This spring, Duus not only provides you with great food and fantastic view of the harbour, they also offer a rib safari tour. If you would like to watch some jumping whales, dolphins or the Northern Gannets living on the island of Eldey, such a tour might be the very adventure you seek. Going out on those fast, open speed-boats gives the tour a thrill you do not experience in the more traditional whale-watching tours. The setting of Duus couldn’t be more picturesque-a lovely wooden building, in the post-card perfect location, overlooking the deep blue waters of Fa xaf lói Bay. Whether you’re in town during lunch or dinner-time you will be able to choose from a wide variety of dishes. The combination of a cosy environment, good food, a great stroll by the seaside and a lively tour on the sea sounds like a great day in Keflavík. –
Kaffi Duus Duusgötu 10 • 230 Reykjanesbæ
+354 421 7080 duus@duus.is www.duus.is
42
www.icelandictimes.com
ST.S
To u r i s m , C u lt u r e
and
Business
I s s u e 19 • 2013
Leather Designer
Ladies handbags, earrings and necklaces
Q
uality Icelandic design and leather handcraft is much sought after. “My first leather design was a handbag painted with colourful art work and patterns,” says Guðrún Stefánsdóttir, a successful independent architect who found a second career in creative leather designs. Guðrún designs leather handbags and now she’s added necklaces and earrings to her Ark Art accessory collection. “I wanted to use the leather cut-offs for something useful, when I came up with the idea to use them to make jewellery—earrings and necklaces.” Guðrún’s Ark Art leather jewellery is recognisable by her use of thin leather rings or squares and use of colours. It is a sophisticated yet simple design, skilfully using geometric shapes and colours.
Guðr ú n graduated from t he Roya l School of Architecture in Denmark in 1986. A f ter work ing at an architect’s office, she started her own business. “I’ve worked on some amazing projects, ranging from large buildings to single family homes. My favourite projects are those where I design everything from A-Z for private homes. Those projects would typically involve the house and interior design, the landscaping around the house and the furniture inside.” The Ark Art collection is available at the National Art Gallery, Sædís jewellery s h o p a t R e y k j a v i k ’s O l d H a r b o u r, Snorrastofa in Reykholt and directly from Guðrún. More information can be found on Facebook: Ark.art leather design. –
NNH
Arkart Dragháls 10 • 110 Reykjavík
+354 551 5533 arkgunna@simnet.is www.arkart.is
44
www.icelandictimes.com
Reykjavik's Thermal Pools
*
e c r u o s A alth e h of
Th er m al sw i m m in g po ol s
Hot t ubs and jacuzzi
*Admission January 2013. Price is subject to change
O N LY
k. 55AD0ULiTsS k. 130DiRsEN
Sa un as , steambaths an d sh ow ers
CHIL
Fo r he al t h an d we ll-be in g
Se ve n lo ca t io ns
Op en ea rl y un t il la te
Thermal pools and ba baths s in Reykjavik are a so source e of health, relaxation a and d pureness. All of the city´s swimming pools have several hot pots with temperatures ranging from 37˚ to 42˚C (98˚–111˚F). The pools are kept at an average temperature of 29˚ C (84˚ F). Tel: +354 411 5000 • www.itr.is
To u r i s m , C u lt u r e
and
Business
I s s u e 19 • 2013
History Brought to Life
The Snorrastofa Cultural and Medieval Centre is in Reykholt
S
norri Sturluson (1179-1241), Iceland’s best known Saga writer and scholar, is the author of such important and famous works as Heimskringla, which is one of the most important sources of Scandinavian history, Snorra Edda, a handbook on poetry and mythology and probably one of the very best Sagas of Icelanders, Egil’s Saga, the story of the Viking poet Egill Skallagrímsson. Snorri’s records of the Old Norse language and Nordic mythology are invaluable to modern scholars. The quality of his writing made him the foremost historical writer of medieval times throughout Europe. His style, bringing his characters to life, makes fascinating reading even today. Snorri was a wea lthy and powerful chieftain in the age of unrest and civil war preceding Iceland’s loss of independence. He A new exhibition was murdered by his enemies in his home on ‘The Snorri Sturluson Saga’, can now be visited in the 23rd September 1241. Snorrastofa. It tells the story of Snorri’s exciting life, addressing issues such as upbringing, Snorrastofa education, writing, properties and manors. Snorrastofa, the Cultural and Medieval Snorri’s bath (a geothermally heated Centre in Reyk holt in West Icela nd, pool) can be seen outside along with the was founded in memory of Snorri. It is tunnel which led from his private manor situated on his ancient homestead, which directly out to the pool. i s c on sidere d one of Ic e l a nd ’s mo s t A statue of Snorri by Gustav Vigeland noteworthy historical sites. Snorrastofa stands in front of the old district school, manages research, a library, an exhibition which was used between 1931 and 1997. about Snorri and conference facilities. Today the beautiful building, designed by It a l so r u n s a tou r i st rec ept ion a nd Guðjón Samúelsson, is administrated by a souvenir shop, which of fers book s, Snorrastofa, offering apartments and study postcards and Icelandic designs, some facilities for scholars, along with meeting exclusively for sale in Snorrastofa. and conference facilities.
46
www.icelandictimes.com
The Reykholt Churches
There are two churches in Reykholt: the old church, consecrated in 1887, now beautifully restored by the National Museum of Iceland, and the new church built between 1988 and 1996. The new church is known for its strikingly designed windows (designed by Valgerður Bergsdóttir) and its acoustics. The church is famous for its concerts all year round. A classical music festival of the highest quality, The Reykholt Music Festival is held annually on the last weekend in July. Snorrastofa’s exhibition, ‘The Snorri Sturluson Saga’, can be visited all year round. During the summer season, (1st May —31st August), the opening hours are from 10 to 18 every day, and during the winter season, from 10 to 17 on weekdays and, if booked in advance, during weekends. –
Snorrastofa Reykholt • 320 Borgarfjörður +354 433 8000 snorrastofa@snorrastofa.is www.snorrastofa.is
AMB
Between Mountains and Sea Kast Guesthouse offers a Natural Stress-Relieving Break
W
the environment here and bring great enjoyment. There are tours of bet ween one and three hours daily, with longer tours also ava i lable for groups. In fact, groups tours in winter are really special, as the guesthouse is open all year round.
ith Snæfellsjökull glacier towering above, steep mountains behind it and the sea before it, Lýsudal farm, on the southern side of the Snæfells peninsula, has the best of all worlds. In 2011, the family opened Kast guesthouse on its land to share its beauty with others. W hen we were in the area this year, we wanted to stay there as it is such a beautiful location. Ten of the double rooms have en suite bathrooms and the remaining six are with shared bathrooms. There are two rooms that take up to four people each with sleeping bags. There are toilets and cooking facilities. The rooms have large windows revealing an unobstructed panorama of nature. C lo s e by, t he l a r g e c a mp site h a s excellent facilities including electricity for campers and caravans. Sheltered by the mountain, it’s a peaceful location.
interested in fishing, there are lakes just across the road to enjoy. The streams from spectacular mountain waterfalls are crystal clear and, just 2 minutes away, the swimming pool at Lýsuhóll is renowned for its nutrient rich waters’ cleansing and Strength for the Day healing effects on the skin. W hether you are planning vigorous or rela xed activities in the fresh air, you will want a good breakfast to start with. Here, Lydía, the guesthouse manager, has an ace up her sleeve. Her brother is a baker who supplies a wide range of freshly ba ked foods to the restaurant every day. Seating up to 50 guests the elegant restaurant also provides evening dinners for guests and visitors. K ast Guesthouse is a tranquil place to stay amidst an area rich in interest. Bookings can be made online. You will not be disappointed.
Healthy Attractions of Nature
Travel the Area the Natural Way
What draws people to this area, besides t he fa mous volca no a nd its glacier — w h ic h ju s t b e g to b e c l i mb e d — a r e the ruggedly breathta k ing bird cliffs, w it h t housa nds of sea g u lls, f u lma rs, k it tiwa kes a nd a rctic terns, s w irling around them just minutes away. For those
With so many beautiful vistas surrounding the Kast guesthouse, this l a nd s hou ld b e enjoye d t he n at u r a l way — on horseback . T he na me K a st actually comes from the meadow behind the guesthouse where the mares go to c a st t heir foa ls. Horses a re a pa r t of
www.icelandictimes.com
Kastguesthouseoffers16doubleroomsanda restaurantthatwelcomesupto50people.Groups biggerthan10peoplegeta15%discount.Youcan book online or just show up. “Ekkert mál!” – ASF
Kast guesthouse Lýsudalur • 356 Snæfellsbær
+354 421 5252
kast@kastguesthouse.is www.kastguesthouse.is
47
I s su e 21 • 2014
ee fr py co
The White Coat of Winter is Washed Away The Secrets of the Highlands Are Yours Travel to the Ends of the World Time to Relax and Be Revived
www.icelandictimes.com
W
hen the Viking seafarer, Hrafna-Flóki found Iceland, he enjoyed a gloriously hot summer. So he was not prepared for the bitterly cold winter as the weather changed. Climbing the highest mountain he could find, he saw a fjord filled with ice. That, it is said, is how Iceland got its name. It’s a rugged country that has seen its share of disasters over the centuries and, to a modern observer, it seems it must have
been a very tough life before the advent of geothermal heating. Even today, you have to be fit and wellequipped if you want to face the challenges of travel in the interior or Highlands. While many hikes are easy, there are those that challenge the very spirit of man and which are for the bold, brave, fit and well-prepared. However, each year, there are a number of visitors who try to travel into the interior, not
realising the hazards that can befall them. It is therefore very prudent that Iceland has such a well organised rescue service. There are many tours that can take you into these spectacular landscapes — either as hikes or in SuperJeeps with experienced drivers. The trips are worth every moment, as you can read here, but do follow the guidelines and stay safe. Enjoy your Icelandic summer. —Andrew Scott Fortune
Contents Iceland’s Art History .............................................................................. 6 The All-Icelandic Wool Shop............................................................... 8 The Ultimate Fashion Statement...................................................... 9 Living Design Museum.......................................................................10 Photos, Food and Glaciers................................................................. 12 Rent Your Own Super-Defender..................................................... 12 The Brave get the Best......................................................................... 13 A Downtown Village............................................................................14 Reykjavik Dinner Cruise...................................................................... 15 The Joyful Wonderland.......................................................................16 The Treasure Chest...............................................................................16 An Icelandic Icon................................................................................... 17 Sailors and Storms................................................................................18 Spreading the Taste..............................................................................18 Prepare to be Amazed.................................................................. 20-21 Living in the Lava..................................................................................22 The Warmth of Iceland........................................................................23 Touring with a Friend...........................................................................24 A Wish Come True.................................................................................26 From Hunters to Home.......................................................................27 Duty Free the Icelandic Way...................................................... 28-29 Kvikan has the Answers......................................................................30 Connected by Energy and History ................................................32 Grindavík’s Harbour Café...................................................................33 Cod at its Freshest in Grindavík.......................................................33 The Raw Earth.................................................................................. 34-35 Four Star Comfort in Keflavík............................................................38 Burning Hot as the Sun.......................................................................39 Dine 10 min from the Airport ..........................................................40 Dine at Keflavík’s Harbour.................................................................42 Leather Designer...................................................................................44 History Brought to Life........................................................................46 Between Mountains and Sea............................................................47 A Setting for Every Mood...................................................................48 Hot from the Oven................................................................................48 Worlds of Magic & Mythology..........................................................49 Where Birds & Photographers meet....................................... 50-51 Step Back in Time..................................................................................52
Meet The Ocean’s Big Five.................................................................53 The Draw of the West.................................................................... 54-55 Mystic History.........................................................................................56 Soft as Silk Spa........................................................................................56 Iceland’s Oldest Country Hotel........................................................57 Peace with Nature and Birds.............................................................57 Interview with a Whale................................................................ 58-59 Where Monsters Rule...........................................................................60 Westfjords Revealed............................................................................60 Accommodation for All.......................................................................61 Iceland’s First Settler............................................................................62 A Nature Paradise..................................................................................63 Westfjords Wonders.............................................................................63 A Hidden Gem in Viðidalur................................................................65 Horses, History & Nature.............................................................66-67 Singing in the Silence..........................................................................69 The Arctic Bow .......................................................................................70 On Top of the World.............................................................................71 Just Opened............................................................................................71 Dining with a Harbour View..............................................................72 The Old Post Office ..............................................................................73 Sweet Memories of Iceland...............................................................73 The Northern Playground............................................................74-75 Ambassador to the Whales...............................................................76 Eat Vegan in Eyjafjörður......................................................................76 Where Fitness Folk Eat........................................................................77 The North Eats Thai..............................................................................77 The Country Experience.....................................................................78 A Guesthouse in the Country...........................................................78 Guarded by a Firey Dragon...............................................................79 Entranced by the East..........................................................................80 A Fresh Place to Stay............................................................................81 At the Eastern Crossroads..................................................................82 Cowshed Corner....................................................................................82 The Mystery of Randulff’s Sea House............................................83 The Natural Pearl of the East.............................................................84 A Class from the Past ...........................................................................85 Stay in a World of Beauty ..................................................................86
Credits PUBLISHER
SALES AND MARKE TING Anna Margrét Bjarnadóttir anna@icelandictimes.com
Delphine Briois
andrew@icelandictimes.com
ARTICLES WRIT TEN BY
elinb@landogsaga.is
Elín Sigríður Ármannsdóttir EDITOR & GENERAL MANAGER Einar Th. Thorsteinsson einar@landogsaga.is
elin@icelandictimes.com
Erna Sigmundsdóttir erna@landogsaga.is
Hrönn Kristbjörnsdóttir VIDEO & T V DEPARTMENT Einar Th. Thorsteinsson Gabriel Rutenberg Sigurlaug Ragnarsdóttir L AYOUT & DESIGN Land & Saga Layout Team
PROOFREADER Andrew Scott Fortune
Elín Bára Einarsdóttir
delphine@icelandictimes.com
ICELANDIC TIMES
Icelandic language ENGLISH EDITOR &
hronn@landogsaga.is
Sigurlaug Ragnarsdóttir
sigurlaug@icelandictimes.com
FRONT COVER PHOTO BY Brynjar Ágústsson
Andrew Scott Fortune Anna Margarét Bjarnadóttir Elaine Marie Valgarðsson Júlíana Björnsdóttir Kelly Baumann Nanna Hlín Halldórsdóttir Sigrún Pétursdóttir Stefán Helgi Valsson Vignir Andri Guðmundsson
Stay in Reyðarfjörður...........................................................................86 The French Connection......................................................................87 Quintessentially German...................................................................87 Just Begging to be Explored............................................................88 Wilderness in Full Colour...................................................................89 A Birdwatcher’s Paradise.............................................................90-91 Sail a Fantasy World..............................................................................92 The Vast Vatnajökull.............................................................................93 Dine in the Langoustine Capital.....................................................94 Eating well in Höfn................................................................................95 On Top of the World......................................................................96-97 A Hike of a Lifetime............................................................................ 100 A Secret Beauty spot .........................................................................102 Refreshed under the Glacier...........................................................103 The Old Cowhouse Restaurant .................................................... 104 A Multinational Tapestry................................................................. 106 Personal Iceland...................................................................................107 Tölt on the Volcano............................................................................107 A Diverse Community...................................................................... 108 A Taste of Ethiopia............................................................................. 108 An Idyllic Stay....................................................................................... 109 Raised on Chocolate......................................................................... 109 Slakki Zoo’s 20 th Anniversary..................................................110-111 Within The Golden Circle.................................................................112 Down Into the Depths.......................................................................112 A Taste of Iceland’s Wild & Sweet..................................................113 The following pages are found only in the issue for sale: The Power of Images..................................................................116-117 The Icelandic Horse....................................................................118-119 Let Books Brag For You............................................................120-121 Birdwatching in Paradise........................................................122-123 It’s a Bird’s Life.............................................................................124-125 The World’s Largest Mammal on Display.........................126-127 Shaped by the Bay.....................................................................128-129 Prepare for Lunar Landing...............................................................130
How to make use of QR codes
Icelandic is one of the European root languages, like Latin. There is no ‘c’ or ‘z’ in modern Icelandic, except in foreign words. However, It still contains some letters not found in most other languages. This basic list provides a general idea of their sounds, using familiar words rather than phonetics. Character
Pronunciation
á æ ð þ
Like ‘ow’ in ‘cow’ Like the personal pronoun ‘I’ Like ‘th’ in ‘that’ Like ‘th’ in ‘thing’
Use your QR code reader application on your smartphone or iPad to scan the QR codes. QR code reader applications can be downloaded free for all makes of smartphones
Icelandic Times TheopinionsexpressedinIcelandicTimesdonotnecessarilyreflectthoseoftheeditor,publishersortheiragents.Thoughthe contentofthisissuehavebeenmeticulouslyprepared,nowarrantyismadeabouttheaccuracyandcompletenessofitscontent. Copyright © July 2013 Icelandic Times. All rights reserved
4
Oddi Ecolabelled Printing Co.
www.icelandictimes.com
Síðumúla 1 • 108 Reykjavík
+354 578 5800
info@icelandictimes.com www.icelandictimes.com
To u r i s m , C u lt u r e
and
Business
I s s u e 21 • 2014
I
celand is fast becoming the tourist destination of choice. The growth in the number of tourists exploded by some 2 0 % i n 2 013 a n d continues to rise with every passing year. As a result of this boom, Iceland is meeting the challenge with a growing number of new hotels, gu e s th o us e s , a n d Einar Th. Thorsteinsson other services that have been springing up recently around the country.
It ’s exciting for us to witness all the changes and in this issue of Icelandic Times, you will get a glimpse of some of Iceland’s newest additions in the travel and tourism sector. This, our 21st issue, mark s Icelandic Times’ 5th anniversary and we are proud of our progress, which while modest, has grown alongside the current fascination for all things Icelandic. 2012 saw the birth of t wo new language editions, one in French and the other in German, as well as a special edition, our largest to date, which is bursting with detailed information on a variet y of subjec ts of interest to visitors. What’s more, you can peruse all
The All-Icelandic Wool Shop............................................................... 6 The Artist’s Eye......................................................................................... 8 Take Time to Enjoy Life .......................................................................10 Drive Rough Roads in Iceland..........................................................10 Iceland’s Master Watchmaker.......................................................... 11 The Brave get the Best......................................................................... 12 Greenland Charms................................................................................ 13 Iceland’s Progressive Art....................................................................14 A Changing of the Seasons...............................................................14 Leather Designer................................................................................... 15 Spreading the Taste..............................................................................16 Sailors and Storms................................................................................16 The Joyful Wonderland.......................................................................18 The Treasure Chest...............................................................................18 Fire under the Snow.............................................................................20 Truly a treasure to find ........................................................................21 Living in the Lava..................................................................................22 Peaceful in the City centre.................................................................23 Segways and Bicycles in the City....................................................24 Seeking for Past and Power..............................................................26 Relax and be Revived...........................................................................28 Kirsuberjatréð Arts, Crafts and Design........................................30 Duty Free the Icelandic Way.............................................................33 Purity and Volcanic Peeling..............................................................35 Dine 10 min from the Airport ..........................................................36 Grindavík’s Harbour Café...................................................................36 Four Star Comfort in Keflavík............................................................37 Harbour Dining in Old Keflavik........................................................37 A Setting for Every Mood...................................................................39 Deep in Natural Wonders...................................................................39
Hot from the Oven................................................................................40 Worlds of Magic & Mythology......................................................... 41 Step Back in Time..................................................................................42 Meet The Ocean’s Big Five.................................................................43 Superb Views and Food......................................................................44 Close to Mother Nature......................................................................45 A Nature Paradise..................................................................................47 Westfjords Wonders.............................................................................47 Mystic History.........................................................................................48 Soft as Silk Spa........................................................................................48 Iceland’s Oldest Country Hotel........................................................49 Peace with Nature and Birds.............................................................49 Far from the Madding Crowd ..........................................................50 A Day close to ‘The Viking’................................................................52 Iceland’s First Settler............................................................................53 The Northern Playground..................................................................56 Just Opened............................................................................................58 Treasure at the World’s End...............................................................59 Eating at the End of the World.........................................................59 Ambassador to the Whales...............................................................60 The North Eats Thai..............................................................................60 Básar Guesthouse in Grímsey...........................................................62 A Home Away from Home.................................................................63 A Guesthouse in the Country...........................................................63 Guarded by a Firey Dragon...............................................................65 At the End of the World.......................................................................66 Take time for the Extraordinary.......................................................68 Embraced by the Nature of East Iceland......................................69 Dine in the Langoustine Capital.....................................................70 The Vast Vatnajökull.............................................................................71
of Icelandic Times back issues in English, French and German at our website http:// icelandictimes.com Enjoy your stay in Iceland but please note that many highland roads and tracks are still closed in spring and some roads can be icy in places. Check out http://vegagerdin/ English for road conditions around Iceland. The website updates its information once or t wice per hour and you can get the latest weather report at http://vedur.is. An excellent and overall comprehensive website with detailed help on preparing for your trip to Iceland can be found at http://safetravel.is Enjoy your Icelandic adventure and stay safe!
Contents
Credits PUBLISHER
Delphine Briois
delphine@icelandictimes.com
Edda Snorradóttir
edda@icelandictimes.com
ICELANDIC TIMES
Kolbrún Ólafsdóttir
einar@icelandictimes.com
LAYOUT & DESIGN Icelandic Times media GuðmundurSnærGuðmundsson Andrew Scott Fortune SALES AND MARKETING Alexander Kazek
alexander@icelandictimes.com
Steingerður Steinarsdóttir Andrew Scott Fortune Dagmar Trodler Ditte Hoejgaard
kolbrun@icelandictimes.com
Elaine Marie Valgarðsson
Sindri Birgisson
Hjördís Erna Þorgeirsdóttir
sindri@icelandictimes.com
EDITOR & GENERAL MANAGER Einar Th. Thorsteinsson
Icelandic language
Hrafnhildur Þórhalldsóttir
PROOFREADER Elaine Marie Valgarðsson InterCultural Ísland ehf
Nanna Hlín Halldórsdóttir
EDITING
Sigrún Pétursdóttir
Andrew Scott Fortune ARTICLES WRITTEN BY Anna Margrét Bjarnadóttir Súsanna Svafarsdóttir
Júlianna Björnsdóttir Ólöf Baldvinsdóttir
The following pages are found only in the issue for sale: East Iceland........................................................................................... 104 The Old Icelandic Sagas....................................................................107 Forging the Future............................................................................. 109 The Highlands in North East Iceland...........................................112
How to make use of QR codes
Icelandic is one of the European root languages, like Latin. There is no ‘c’ or ‘z’ in modern Icelandic, except in foreign words. However, it still contains some letters not found in most other languages. This basic list provides a general idea of their sounds, using familiar words rather than phonetics.
Stefán Helgi Valsson
Character
Pronunciation
Vignir Andri Guðmundsson
á æ ð þ
Like ‘ow’ in ‘cow’ Like the personal pronoun ‘I’ Like ‘th’ in ‘that’ Like ‘th’ in ‘thing’
FRONT COVER PHOTO Florent GAST
On Top of the World ............................................................................73 Sail a Fantasy World.............................................................................. 74 At the Eastern Crossroads..................................................................75 No Ash – Just Beautiful Camping...................................................76 Refreshing Vík.........................................................................................76 Personal Iceland.....................................................................................77 Tölt on the Volcano..............................................................................77 The Old Cowhouse Restaurant .......................................................78 Ásólfsskáli Farm Holidays .................................................................78 Eat At The Source..................................................................................79 Raised on Chocolate............................................................................79 A Taste of Iceland’s Wild & Sweet....................................................81 Glaciers, Black Sand Beaches & Puffins.........................................83 Touching Greenland............................................................................84 All’s Quiet on the Katla Front ...........................................................86 The House that Disappeared............................................................88 Viking Tours of the Westman Islands............................................89 From Fire to Ice.......................................................................................90 The Hidden Pearl of Iceland..............................................................92 The Simple Life of the Icelandic Countryside............................94 Slakki Zoo and Play Centre................................................................95 A Picture of the Past.............................................................................96 Travel With a Friend..............................................................................98
Use your QR code reader application on your smartphone or iPad to scan the QR codes. QR code reader applications can be downloaded free for all makes of smartphones
Icelandic Times TheopinionsexpressedinIcelandicTimesdonotnecessarilyreflectthoseoftheeditor,publishersortheiragents.Thoughthe contentsofthisissuehavebeenmeticulouslyprepared,nowarrantyismadeabouttheaccuracyandcompletenessthereof. Copyright © April 2014 Icelandic Times media ehf. All rights reserved
4
Oddi Ecolabelled Printing Co.
www.icelandictimes.com
Síðumúla 1 • 108 Reykjavík
+354 578 5800
info@icelandictimes.com www.icelandictimes.com
Today‘s travellers face mental and physical stress on a daily basis. Jet lag and fatigue take their toll and with the mental and physical demands of today‘s busy world, it is very important that you take care of yourself. We offer a comprehensive range of face and body treatments to promote harmony, balance and well-being. All spa treatments include a range of complimentary services & facilities: luxurious robes, slippers and towels, changing rooms, showers, lockers and water. Our facilities include a jacuzzi with substances from the sea, a sauna and steam bath (12 years age limit).
For the energetic, our superb gym at the Hotel has all the latest technologically advanced equipment, suitable for all ranges of fitness (16 years age limit).
It is possible to come at other times if booked during opening hours
To u r i s m , C u lt u r e
and
Business
I s s u e 21 • 2014
The All-Icelandic Wool Shop
TheIcelandicHandknittingAssn.sellsIcelandicwoolandproducts
S
heep came to Iceland with the Viking settlers and quickly proved their value, not only for their meat but also their wool and skins. Living conditions were very basic and especially tough in the cold and dark winter months. Sheep helped keep the settlers alive. These Icelandic sheep have two types of fleece—an outer, weather and water repellent layer and a soft, warm fleece close to the skin. Combined, they have provided warm clothing for farmers and seamen, adults, children and babies for centuries. Making sweaters became a tradition in farmhouses, cottages and houses around the country.
From home to market
The Handknitting Association of Iceland was founded in 1977 to help knitters to get t heir ha nd iwork ma rketed. A group of women formed the association, establishing standards and guidelines for the production that was—and still is, an important supplement to many family incomes. Shortly thereafter, they opened a shop to sell their members’ woollen goods at Skólavörðustígur 19, the main shopping street that descends from Hallgrímskirkja, the cathedral overlooking the city.
4
Find the real thing
In today’s globalised society, it is increasingly difficult to be sure you are getting a genuine article, rather than one made thousands of miles away, with wool without the characteristics that has made Icelandic wool so special for hundreds of years. The Handknitting Assn.’s shop only stocks genuine Icelandic wool and clothing made by professional Icelandic knitters, so you can be certain you are getting the true, well-made product. Look for the logo to be sure. Their motto from the outset has been, ‘Buy directly from the people who make them’. Walking into the shop, one cannot help but be amazed at the skill and productivity of these ladies—and some men, too, from all walks of life, living in all parts of the country. Every item has that sense of individual uniqueness that only handmade items carry.
Icelandic designers have also turned their attention to wool as a medium of choice for their fashion designs, resulting in new products, styles and colours. Today, there is a wide range of sweaters, gloves, hats, scarves, socks, bags and many other items in sizes to suit everyone from a Viking warrior (or farmer) to a pretty fashion model to a newborn baby. The store is a centre, not only for selling the finished products, but also for supplying the wool and all the accessories required to make woollen items. If knitting is your hobby, there is a world of warm designs just waiting for you. Icelandic wool wears very well and it is not uncommon for people to wear sweaters many years and for them to still look fresh. Visitors can have their purchases shipped to them and they can also order from the website. Traditional and modern styles That includes the patterns, wool, needles and T he world of k n it t i ng h a s c h a nged accessories, not just the clothing. – ASF dramatically since the association began. A few decades ago, the designs took the form of HandprjónasambandÍslands the ‘lopapeysa’ or sweater, with its distinctive Skólavörðustígur 19 • 101 Reykjavík +354 552 1890 scalloped pattern, which has become so handknit@handknit.is www.handknit.is popular worldwide, but numerous young
www.icelandictimes.com
To u r i s m , C u lt u r e
and
Business
I s s u e 21 • 2014
The Artist’s eye
Visit Reykjavik Art Museum for an inspiring view of country and culture
R
eykjavik Art Museum is the country’s largest visual art institution. It’s located in three unique buildings scattered around the heart of the city; Hafnarhúsið, Kjarvalsstaðir and Ásmundarsafn, each with it’s own vision and purpose but all three dedicated to art in it’s various forms and splendour. The entrance ticket is valid to all the houses on the same day.
Hafnarhúsið
This former warehouse is located in the city centre and focuses on contemporary art today, both Icelandic and international. This is the ‘home’ of Erró, Iceland’s most renowned Pop artist. The museum offers a permanent exhibition of his art and this summer shows a collection of recent works – created over the last eleven years – that present a new period in the artist’s career. The museum’s main summer exhibition entitled ‘Selection’ is ta ken from the collection from 1970–2010. It shows the work of fifty of the most interesting artists in the Icelandic art scene over the last thirty years, among them Ólafur Elíasson, Ragnar Kjartansson and Gabríela Friðriksdóttir. The exhibition varies in both medium and concept and ref lects the development of Icelandic art from one generation of artists to the next. The museum is open daily from 10–17 and from 10–20 on Thursdays.
Kjarvalsstaðir
Situated in park Miklatún, Kjarvalsstaðir is the first building in Iceland designed for visual art exhibitions. This is the ‘residence’ of Jóhannes Kjarval, one of Iceland’s most beloved painters. Here his key works are exhibited all year round and should not be missed by any art lover or nature enthusiast. Kjar val’s vision of Icelandic nature is incomparable; in his work, land and saga become one. The summer’s exhibition, ‘The Seasons in Kjarval’s Art’, offers a selection of his paintings that depict how the land changes with the seasons. The museum is mainly dedicated to paintings and sculpture of well established artists, Icelandic as well as international and the two summer exhibitions, ‘Affinities’ and ‘Reykjavik, City, Structure’, showcase works from various periods in Icelandic art history.
8
In ‘Affinities’, works of different artists, in some way linked or alike, are juxtaposed together. The show doesn’t possess a thematic approach, rather it creates a dialogue by pairing works that somehow spea k together, creating a whole new experience for the viewer. ‘Reykjavik, City, Structure’ explores the transformation of Reykjavik from town to city, depicted in the works of various artists. Kjarvalsstaðir is open daily from 10–17.
Ásmundarsafn
This magical place is literally the house of pioneer sculpture Ásmundur Sveinsson, since it was both mostly designed by the artist
www.icelandictimes.com
himself and served partly as his studio and partly his home. Located just outside the city centre, in Laugardalur, the museum is surrounded by a garden filled with the artist’s marvelous creations, work s that span his entire career and clearly show his growth and development as an artist. Ásmundarstaðir is open between May 1st and September 30 th from 10–17 and from October 1st to April 30th from 13–17. –
HÞ
Reykjavik Art Museum Tryggvagötu 17, 101 Reykjavik
+354 590 1200
listasafn@reykjavik.is www.listasafnreykjavikur.is
In Akureyri Hrísalundur 1b Charity sh op open Weekdays 13-18 Saturdays 13-18 Phone: 46 2 4433
In Reykjavík Garðastræti 6 open Charity shop -18 Weekdays 13 3277 Phone: 561
In Reykjavík Eyjaslóð 7, by the harbou r Charity shop open Weekdays 13 -18
In Reykjavík Álfabakka 12 at Mjódd Charity shop open Tues - Fri 13-18 Phone: 844 6188
Phone: 858 5908
Get a Bargain and Make a Difference by Supporting the Salvation Army’s Youth and Welfare Programme! Hjálpræðisherinn • Kirkjustræti 2 • 101 Reykjavík • 552 0788 • Island@herinn.is • www.herinn.is
To u r i s m , C u lt u r e
and
Business
I s s u e 21 • 2014
Take Time to Enjoy Life
Isafold Travel’s Highland treasures are revealed in quiet moments
With so much to see and enjoy in Iceland, many people are tempted to try to cover as much ground as possible, ticking off boxes of ‘must see’ locations. But Isafold Travel suggests you set your travel rhythms to ‘enjoy’ instead of ‘seeing’, and to ‘experience’ rather than ‘stopping by’. I love to savour my lunch-pack by Dynjandi waterfall, hike to remote areas around Drangajökull in the West Fjords,
or enjoy homemade dinner at an Icelandic farm. The same philosophy permeates all tours operated by Isafold Travel: immerse yourself in the culture and history of Iceland, and create memories that will last – be it driving a modified 4x4 on a glacier, or watching the sun caress the horizon on a summer night. Many wish for their holidays to be packed with thrilling experiences but, although
Iceland offers an abundance of them, enjoying them also entails simply sitting on a rock and absorbing the sounds of a river or visiting small remote fishing village. Longer tours like ‘Iceland 360°—On the Rocks’, cater for both. Touring in a small group with an experienced guide gives you an opportunity to discover the island without the crowds. Travelling like this is not just about going on long tours. In 2 days you can drive a 4x4 modified Land Rover Defender yourself in a convoy led by an expert guide to Þórsmörk, onto the black beaches of the South and on mountain tracks around the Golden Circle. You’ll take home golden memories! –
DH
Isafold Travel Smidshofdi 21 • 110 Reykjavik
+354 544 8866 info@isafoldtravel.is www.isafoldtravel.is
The modified ISAK Super Defender meets the challenges of the highland wilderness, fully-equipped with its 38 inch tyres, GPS, radio, air compressor and even a shovel!
Drive Rough Roads in Iceland ISAK 4x4 Land Rover Defenders take on the toughest terrain
T
o f u l ly enjoy t he f re e dom a nd explore Iceland’s magnificent natural treasures, many choose to rent a car. You enjoy complete independence. But what car should you choose? The country roads are usually covered with ice and snow in winter, early spring and even in the summertime, especia lly in the highlands. The fast changing weather is difficult to predict. Normal cars are fine for main roads, but any rough tracks or highland driving requires
10
something bigger and stronger. Driving in the Icelandic highlands involves crossing rivers and driving steep mountain tracks totally impassable to normal cars. It is vital to drive in a properly equipped vehicle to stay safe.
The Ísey vs. ISAK
ISAK 4x4 rental now provides standard Land Rover Defenders. The Ísey Land Rover is provided with special winter tyres, which can handle tough upcountry road conditions.
www.icelandictimes.com
Guides show the way
Travelling the highlands is a thrill but requires good driving skills. ISAK can provide driver-guides to travel with you and provide counsel and a fount of knowledge. You are behind the wheel, driving through highland rivers and volcanic landscapes, but with an experienced driver by your side. –
Isak 4x4 Rental Smidshofdi 21 • 110 Reykjavik
+354 544 8860 info@isak.is www.isak.is
DH
Iceland’sMasterWatchmaker JS Watches are masters of time
H
ow many parts are there in a topnotch time piece? It happens to be a well-kept secret, unless you find a master watchmaker who allows you to observe the intricacies of his meticulous work. One such master, Gilbert O. Guðjónsson and his son Sigurður Gilbertsson, along with their partners Julíus Heiðarsson and Grimkell Sigurðsson, pioneered what may be the world’s smallest watch manufacturer in 2005. As typical Icelanders, they do everything themselves—from design to production—and even the photography in keeping with their motto, ‘no secrets, no surgical steel from Germany and the limited fakes’. It is the extraordinary quality, the production of each design that makes the use of materials such as sapphire crystal and difference, attracting collectors and celebrities from all over the world. The latest fan of Master Gilbert’s watches is Tom Cruise, who sent a personal note of satisfaction—just one more affirmation among many other satisfied customers, including Viggo Mortensen and the Dalai Lama.
Watches for every occasion
The Icelandic Search and Rescue Team, who daily put their lives at risk, have no time
www.icelandictimes.com
for anything less than the best. They are officially equipped with the ‘Síf ’, a special edition of water resistant watches. Each watch has its own fascinating story. The impressive Frisland Goð engraved watch celebrates Viking power by fusing traditional design with volcanic materials. The Frisland 1941 Pilot watch was created in 2011, in honour of Reykjavik domestic airport’s 70 year anniversary. When a Dutch customer could wait no longer for the watch he had ordered, Master Gilbert invited him to see it in its final stages of completion. The Dutchman found himself one of those few who know the secrets of the inner workings of his timepiece. You can follow in his footsteps. Just give Gilbert a call and step into the secrecy of his small watch-making cabinet, where screws, parts and tools are kept in neat boxes and the watchmaker’s magnifying glass oversees the ticking of his precious movements. –
DT
JS Watch co. Laugavegur 62 • 101 Reykjavik
+354 551 4100 info@jswatch.com www.jswatch.com
11
To u r i s m , C u lt u r e
and
Business
I s s u e 21 • 2014
Spreading the Taste
You Can Enjoy Authentic Thai Food In Reykjavík or Akureyri
T
he discovery of the wonderful flavours in genuine Thai food only reached Iceland in 2001 when, down by the Old Harbour in a cosy, small white building, Krua Thai first started the taste revolution. For hundreds of
years, Icelanders had grown accustomed to a rather bland diet, so the introduction of Thai cuisine had a major impact. Ic e l a nd e r s h a v e a r e put a t i on f or pioneering and they plunged into this new taste sensation with gusto. A second restaurant opened in Bæjarlind, near the Smáralind shopping centre, also providing home deliveries. Take away also gained great popularity and now you can find the same delicious menu in Krua Siam in Akureyri, close to the harbour. With prices set so that a whole family can eat for less than a single person would pay in fancy restaurant, you can understand its popularity.
Krua Thai’s cuisine is unique as it blends authentic Thai cooking, with all its special spices and ingredients imported directly from Thailand, with Icelandic meats and vegetables. As the food is prepared to order, it reaches you with all the flavour as fresh as possible. It has proven a popular spot for visiting Thai tourists for good reason. The Thai-Icelandic blend is truly a delicious experience and one that any Thai food aficionado should savour while here. –
ASF
Krua Thai Tryggvagötu 14 • 101 Reykjavík
+354 561 0039 kruathai@kruathai.is www.kruathai.is
Sailors and Storms Immerse yourself in Maritime History
T
he Icelandic people have experienced the sea for centuries as both a nourishing mother and a cruel predator. Rich fishing grounds helped them survive on this rough island, but countless fishermen also lost their lives in the unpredictable oceans. Families
16
left behind continued the hard fisherman’s life. Even women, out of sheer necessity, went fishing at times and formed the backbone of the fish processing industry for many decades.
Experience the life of the past
The Icelandic Maritime Museum tells a story of struggle with the elements. A permanent exhibition stocked by a large number of original items from the seafarers’ lives can be experienced. Standing on the reconstructed quay, immersed in the life of the old Reykjavík harbour, or watching movies about fishing 100 years ago is as impressive as trying out the old equipment in order to get a feeling for how a fisherman’s life might have been.
A heroic rescuer and defender
A more modern seafaring flavour is set by the Óðinn, Iceland’s first Coast Guard vessel, now retired on the museum’s wharf that can be explored on guided tours daily. Óðinn’s 46-year history tells about spectacular rescues as well as about her role in the so-called Cod Wars, when the ship expelled British trawlers from Icelandic fishing grounds. In the hall next to the museum café you will find current exhibitions. End your stay in the inspiring museum’s café with its spacious terrace and enjoy the view over Reykjavík’s beautiful harbour. –
DT
ReykjavíkMaritimeMuseum Grandagarður 8 • 101 Reykjavík
+354 517 9400
sjominjasafn@sjominjasafn.is www.sjominjasafn.is
Reykjavik's Thermal Pools
*
e c r u o s A alth e h of
Th er m al sw i m m in g po ol s
Hot t ubs and jacuzzi
*Admission January 2013. Price is subject to change
O N LY
k. 55AD0ULiTsS k. 130DiRsEN
Sa un as , steambaths an d sh ow ers
CHIL
Fo r he al t h an d w el l-be in g
Se ve n lo ca t io ns
Op en ea rl y un t il la te
Thermal pools and ba baths s in Reykjavik are a so source e of health, relaxation a and d pureness. All of the city´s swimming pools have several hot pots with temperatures ranging from 37˚ to 42˚C (98˚–111˚F). The pools are kept at an average temperature of 29˚ C (84˚ F). Tel: +354 411 5000 • www.itr.is
To u r i s m , C u lt u r e
and
Business
I s s u e 21 • 2014
The Joyful Wonderland
The little Christmas shop that is festive all year round
A
nne Helen, owner of ‘The Little Christmas Shop’ on Laugavegur, Reykjavik’s main shopping street, is what you might call a ‘one woman wonder’. When she lost her job in tourism ten years ago, she decided it was time for a change and turned to doing what she does better than most of us; making the world a prettier place, one Christmas ball at a time.
In the Land of Eternal Christmas
she imports merchandise from all over Europe, her ambition is to specialise in Icelandic handiwork and ornaments. She already has an extensive range, most made exclusively for her by a number of craftsmen, each having a distinctive approach and working in materials such as wool, glass and clay. In addition to customary Christmas ornaments, she includes local folklore figures, like the thirteen Yule Lads and the Christmas Cat.
–
Anne Helen, a genuine aesthete, says she has always had somewhat of a Christmas obsession and an intense passion for things of beauty. She never goes for anything average but hunts for things of quality that truly stand out. Though
Laugarvegi 8 • Reykjavík
+354 552 2412
A Master Craftsman Creates Works of Art in Precious Metals
óra Guðbjör t Jónsdót t ir is one o f I c e l a n d ’s f i n e s t a n d m o s t productive goldsmiths using, with great understanding, the ways of Icelandic masters before her time. Between 1949-53, Dóra started learning the trade in her father’s workshop, gaining her Master’s degree in 1953. Additionally, she studied at Tärna folk high school in Sweden, Konstfackskolan in Stockholm around 1950, graduating with honours, and at Vereinigte Goldschmiede-, Kunst- und Werkschule in Pforzheim, Germany in 1954.
18
HÞ
Litla Jólabúðin
The Treasure Chest D
Anne Helen loves is to tell customers about Icelandic Christmas traditions. Visitors often stop by simply because they’ve heard of her hospitality and the shop’s friendly atmosphere. They rarely leave empty handed. After all, placing an Icelandic Yule Lad on your Christmas tree every year is a great way to remember your visit to Iceland.
Dóra took over her father’s workshop in 1970 and relocated it, opening her company called Gullkistan, on Frakkastígur street in Reykjavik. Her speciality is national costume jewellery, or filigree, a delicate kind of jewellery metalwork, usually of gold and silver. Her outstanding skills can be seen in her superb work, honouring Icelandic tradition. Dóra likes to work with very old jewellery templates, often well over 100 years old. She has always actively participated in e x h ibit ions, bot h nat iona l ly a nd internationally, and served as chairperson
www.icelandictimes.com
of the FIG (The Icelandic Goldsmiths’ Association) from 1974-75, being the first Nordic woman to take that position. A true artist, she has always tried to put national crafts in a new context and associate her designs with modern trends which combine the artist’s desire to experiment with a thorough knowledge of templates and patterns of the past. –
Gullkistan Frakkastíg 10 • 101 Reykjavík
+354 551 3160
gullkistan@vortex.is www.thjodbuningasilfur.is
SP
To u r i s m , C u lt u r e
and
Business
I s s u e 21 • 2014
Fire under the Snow
Under the mountains behind Reykjavik lies a hidden power
T
he columns of steam, rising high into the sky, are clearly visible from the capital. Deep below the mountains, the earth is still burning hot and today, that heat provides a source of warmth and electricity for all the capital area.
coach, the Geothermal Energy Exhibition on Hellisheiði makes a fascinating and educational visit at any time of the year. In many ways, it is even more spectacular in the snowy winter months, providing such a contrast between the conditions on the surface compared to those below ground. The Geothermal Energy Exhibition This is the newest and largest geothermal on the Mountain plant in Iceland and Orkusýn provides a rare Just about a 20 minute drive by car, Sterna look into the one of the world’s most powerful line or Iceland Excursions-Grayline Iceland clean energy resources. Multimedia displays
and experienced guides explain how Iceland has become a leader in this form of clean energy and you can get a close look at its production. Refreshments are available in the café while books and DVDs about geothermal energy are to be found in the souvenir area. If you would like to get a better understanding of clean energy, this is the best place to visit. –
ASF
Orkusýn Jarðhitasýningin, Hellisheiðarvirkjun, Route 1 South
+354 412 5800 orkusyn@orkusyn.is www.orkusyn.is
Snorri Travel
Bus Rental Tour Operator
www.snorritravel.is
The White Knight Hvíti Riddarinn - A fully licensed restaurant and bar Delicious food at fair prices. Fish, meat, pizzas and hamburgers
Háholti 13 • 270 Mosfellsbær • Tel. (+354) 5666 222 • hvitiriddarinn@hvitiriddarinn.is • www.hvitiriddarinn.is
Travel in Touch
www.trawire.com
20
www.icelandictimes.com
Truly a treasure to find The only professional knife maker in Iceland
W
ith the vision of a hunter and the mind of an artist, Páll Kristjánsson is an amazing creator of hand-made knifes. The only professional knife maker in Iceland to be exact. Using traditiona l Vik ing methods, making every knife and sheath unique, Palli works with materials available since the Viking Age. A horse’s hoof, a reindeer’s antler, whale tooth, fossilized wood, are but
a few of the items he uses for making the handles. Icelandic birch and rowan are also popular for handles. The blades, however, are not Icelandic. They are either skillfully hand-made designs from a blacksmith in Denmark or factory-made blades from other countries. Palli makes sure only to choose the best materials, so the blades are either made from fine Damascus steel, stainless or single high carbon steel, three
www.icelandictimes.com
or five layer steel, which keep their sharp edge the best. These beautifully traditional pieces of art and history can be ordered online or, in Iceland, can be found at Brynja, the handyman shop at Laugavegur 29 as well as at Palli’s workshop in Mosfellsbær located next to the Álafoss waterfall, about 15km (9.3 miles) from downtown Reykjavik. –
SP
Palli the Knife Maker Álafossvegur 29 • 270 Mosfellsbæ
+354 899 6903 palli@knifemaker.is www.knifemaker.is
21
To u r i s m , C u lt u r e
and
Business
I s s u e 21 • 2014
Living in the Lava
The town where they live with Hidden People and boiling pools
V
isitors to Iceland expect something different. They’ve heard about the volcanos. Then, there are the stranger stories. Take Hafnarfjörður, the small town you reach first when you come from the airport. It has a colourful history, as one of the oldest Icelandic communities. It’s a fishing town, but that’s only part of the story. Built literally in and on the lava that flowed from the Búrfell volcano, you’ll quickly notice the huge, black rocks, craters and caves out of which houses peek. The whole area is a massive lava and geothermal area.
Home for the Huldufólk, too
Image by © Þorsteinn Gunnar Kristjánsson
Exploring the town, you’ll come to a quiet street and Hellisgerði Park. It’s a magical place, known for its elves, dwarves and other mystical beings. There are two tours that explain more about the park, that celebrated its 90 th anniversary in 2013. It’s easy to imagine these ‘Huldufólk’ (hidden people) living here amidst the lava rocks that fold and twist, forming tiny caves and strange
shapes. Beside the pond, winds a pathway past rocks, many coloured with bright emerald or contrasting olive coloured moss. But, for many people, this is not the place of myth but of another world that occasionally reveals itself. A number of these people have recounted meetings these beings. So don’t get surprised if you come across city signs You’ll also find a Tourist Information that read ‘Town of Lava’, ‘Town of Vikings’ Office here that will explain where all the or ‘Town of Elves’. other museums, art and cultural centres are, as well as all that can be enjoyed and Art, Culture and a Living Past experienced during your stay in the town. The town is a vibrant centre. Besides And it is a town you will want to stay in. the sports and the geothermally heated swimming pools, it has a rich cultural life. On fire in the basement Its museums are spread in different buildings Geothermal means heat from the ground across the town, adding authenticity to the —and there’s plenty of evidence of it here, history they portray. Take the Pakkhúsið or along with where it came from. At Krýsuvík, warehouse, for example. A typical Icelandic a little outside the town, are steaming mud bu ild ing, it d isplays t wo perma nent pools, bubbling hot springs, brilliantly exhibitions, the history of the town and coloured lakes—all surrounded by equally one of classic children’s toys and lifestyle brilliantly coloured hills. Hikers who climb items from the past and a third exhibition up to the top of the hill are rewarded by the whose theme changes throughout the year. sight of the spectacular steaming vent and the view of ocean, fields and lakes. Wellmaintained boardwalks wind through the area—but don’t try to touch the pools. Remember where they’re coming from! These lava fields make for a marvellous hiking area, with mountains like Helgafell, with its panoramic view of the peninsula or the Krýsuvíkurberg cliffs, teaming with birdlife. –
Hafnarfjarðarbær Strandgötu 6 • 220 Hafnarfjörður
+354 585 5500
hafnarfjordur@hafnarfjordur.is www.visithafnarfjordur.is
22
www.icelandictimes.com
ASF
Peaceful in the City centre A Central point to Stay in the Capital
A
t Alba Guesthouse, the door has been open for guests since 2004 and they celebrate their 10 th anniversary this year. Icelandic tourism has changed considerably during those 10 years, but the owners of Alba, husband and wife Þorsteinn and Harpa, understand what guests visiting Iceland wish for on their holiday. The diversity in rooms – double, twin, triple and family rooms makes it easy to meet any requirements.
neighbourhood, close to some of Reykjavik’s main sites like Hallgrimskirkja, Perlan and Kjarvalsstaðir Art Museum. In ten minutes one can walk to the downtown shopping area, visit some of the best restaurants in town, or in fifteen minutes towards the sea, relax on the Nauthólsvík Geothermal Beach. You can swim in the
lagoon all year, enjoy the hot tub at the beach or sunbath on the white sand beach on a warm summer day! (It sometimes happens in Iceland).
Start the day right
It can ta ke a great dea l of energ y to experience Iceland’s treasures! But Þorsteinn and his staff will ensure you get a good start to the day with a buffet breakfast. A peaceful home base makes it easy to fully enjoy an Icelandic adventure, and Alba Guesthouse provides you with just that. –
DTT
Alba Guesthouse
Location, location, location
Eskihlíð 3 • 105 Reykjavík
+354 552 9800
Alba Guesthouse is situated in the middle of the city centre, in a peaceful and quiet
stay@alba.is www.alba.is
Fjörukráin A Viking village, set in the heart of Hafnarfjörður, Fjörukráin consists of two restaurants, where you will be served and entertained by Viking-clothed staff. There is also a modern hotel and 14 Viking cottages, with all modern conveniences. +354 565 1213
vikings@vikingvillage.is
www.fjorukrain.is
BanThai
Open 18.00–22.00.
Laugavegur 130, ofan við Hlemm
www.yummy.is
Hverfisgata 123 við Hlemm and Smáralind
One price 1000 kr.
YumFoodmi YumThaimiFusion
we recommend.......
Strandgata 55 • 220 Hafnarfjörður
tel: 692-0564
1/10 The Best Restaurant in Iceland
the best thai food
year 2009,2010,2011 and 2012 Ban Thai is the finest thai restaurant in Iceland www.icelandictimes.com
23
Seeking for Past and Power Reykjavik Excursions takes you into Iceland’s private world
F
ifty years ago, Iceland was a sleeping beauty in the North Atlantic Ocean, well hidden bet ween lava f ields a nd mountains. In 1968, the founders of Reykjavik Excursions joined forces in order to make the country’s austere beauty more accessible to travellers who, at that time, mostly came to Iceland during stopover breaks on their f lights. A company was established and started operation with just a few guides, hired coaches and a lot of passion to present the country’s hidden gems. Tr ave l l i n g i n t ho s e d ay s w a s not comfortable as many roads in Iceland were still gravel tracks and restaurants were rare. It must have been quite an adventure to visit remote places like the hot springs at Krýsuvík or even drive to Hveragerði during the winter. But passion made it all possible and helped the company to f lourish and drive ever better coaches and tours. Today’s modern Reykjavik Excursions operates one of the biggest and newest fleets, and includes the popular Fly-bus service, connecting Reykjavik to the international airport at Kef lavik. Their wide range of guided tours takes visitors to all the main sites in the greatest comfort. Free WiFi internet is provided on all coaches to ensure that you can share your impressions with your friends right away in today’s connected world—or get more details about Iceland’s treasures on the move.
Reykjanes Peninsula—a trip into the Past and Power
From late April onwards, ‘night’ is just a distant thought, as the midnight sun turns night into day—the ideal condition for an unforgettable day trip on the paths of past and power. The Reykjanes peninsula invites you to discover the shy beauty of Iceland’s south west.
26
This rather remote coastline area will deeply affect your senses. The historic sites of the old fishing-town of Sandgerði or Strandarkirkja, a secluded parish church on the shores of the Atlantic Ocean allow a glimpse into the life and drama of the area’s fisheries. Colourful and bizarre lava fields set the stage for contemplation on the hardships and the course of time, serving to prepare you well for a meeting wit h Mot her Earth at the hot springs of Krýsuvík and Gunnuhver, where powerful boiling mud pools demonstrate Iceland’s true nature. See modern fisheries in Grindavík and enjoy wild Atlantic waves at the southwesternmost point of the country, before crossing the famous Bridge between the Continents. The warm, relaxing and healing waters of the Blue Lagoon form a perfect ending to this remarkable day.
The Legends of Sleipnir
Staying with histor y, one can hardly conceive the past centuries’ achievements without having met its most important participant: the Icelandic horse. A true companion of the first settlers and partner in daily life, it is now celebrated in Fákasel Horse Park, a one-of-a-kind centre. Take the chance on this romantic evening trip which could perfectly top off your stay. While spending some delightful hours at the innovative park, you might lose yourself in the dramatic scenes of the multimedia show and while you enjoy the pride and power of the Icelandic horses performing a show based on Icelandic mythology, history and culture. Of course, you are welcome to make their acquaintance in Fákasel’s horse stables and learn more about their uniqueness. The horse show is followed by a 3 course gourmet dinner in Fákasel’s cosy restaurant,
with traditional Icelandic dishes and a special children’s menu. In the bright and open facilities of the Kron Kron design shop you could find the garment or item to remind you of this extraordinary evening. You return to Reykjavik as the sun starts its own evening spectacle, bathing the quiet lava fields of Hellisheiði in a world of colour.
Guides bring the history and land to life
W hether you are seeking the tranquil seclusion and purity of Iceland’s nature reserves, or would rather like to experience some really hot adventure in fire and ice, you can be sure of enjoying the most comfortable and safest travel with Reykjavik Excursions. Since the old days of gravel tracks they have put a special emphasis on the professional education of their multilingual tour guides, to give visitors an insight into every aspect of the places touched by the tour. Wherever they travel, they strive to leave you with the best possible memory of your time in Iceland. –
DT
Reykjavik Excursions BSI Bus Terminal • 101 Reykjavík
+354 580 5400 main@re.is www.re.is
27
32
www.icelandictimes.com
Duty Free the Icelandic Way StartyourIcelandicjourneyintheuniqueDutyFreeArrivalStore
F
requent flyers know the ropes. They get through Passport Control and Customs and head to the Duty Free stores. They need to think. Are they entitled to it or not? Then, laden with bags, they struggle to the plane, shoving their precious cargo into alreadystuffed overhead lockers. At the end of their flight, they lug the same bags down miles of walkways, stairs and escalators, before picking up their luggage and struggling to the taxis, coaches or trains, hoping they don’t drop or break the bottles on the way.
Cosmetic s, confectioner y, tobacco products, toys and electronic products – including the latest DVD titles–are all available at discounted prices, so it is a good time to take advantage of the opportunity to get low prices on things you want to use during your visit. Here you will find all the top brands at knock-down prices. Think of it as a holiday discount!
No Discrimination—Duty Free for all
Icelanders don’t mind which country you’re coming from or going to: the Duty Free Iceland-a Different Way discount applies equally to all travellers. The Vikings do things differently. At the You don’t need to worry about buying International Airport at Keflavik, you will Icelandic currency first, either, as all major find a rare opportunity: a Duty Free Store cards are accepted at the checkout. in the Arrivals section right at the luggage pick-up point, where there are trolleys Go Home well stocked available. Mere feet from the luggage Of course, most of the things you buy in the carousels, passengers can shop at huge Arrivals Duty Free will probably be finished by discounts compared to city prices, especially the end of your visit and you will be looking on wines, spirits and tobacco products. for something special to remember your trip Before their luggage arrives, they have done and for gifts to loved ones and children. their shopping and saved a lot of money. There is a large Duty Free Store in the Departures Lounge for those uniquely Don’t lug it with you-get it here Icela ndic items a nd a wide ra nge of Opened in 1970, the Arrivals Duty Free international brands that make perfect gifts Shop was an instant success with passengers. and souvenirs that is worth paying a visit. With the airport expansion in 2008, it was Duty Free fashion clothing by Burberry, enlarged to accommodate a much larger Mulberry and Boss and a special range of range of international and Icelandic brands, clothing by Icelandic designers are on sale. providing an opportunity to offer a very Unlike most other modern airports, the walk good selection of products. New changes to the plane is short and trolleys can carry this June bring a new buying experience, the load almost to the planes. Passengers from with the wines and spirits easily visible at non-Schengen countries do not even have to the front of the shop and branded gondolas carry their goods from the Departure Lounge so it’s easier to make your choice. as there is a shop close to their planes with the Today, the Dut y Free shop has the same products and prices. – ASF largest range of wines, spirits and beers in the country–larger, even, than many other Duty Free countries’ airports–and it includes the Keflavíkairport • 235 Reykjanesbæ +354 425 0410 international award-winning Egils Gull dutyfree@dutyfree.is www.dutyfree.is beer-and all at a much reduced price.
www.icelandictimes.com
33
Y
ou could spend your whole holiday on the Reykjanes peninsula. Stand on the bridge spanning the continents. Take a thrilling ATV ride up to a moonscape of mountains, volcanos and lava fields. Bathe in the world-renowned Blue Lagoon, with its warm, healing waters. Ride the Icelandic horse. Go hiking and caving. Catch your breath— you are just beginning! Here, some of the first pioneers set up home. You can see their ancient ruins. Their rich fishing fields just offshore still provide large catches but winter storms are so fierce they can throw ships many metres inland. Their salt fish is famous in the Mediterranean countries. Here, you will find the Viking longship that sailed to America in the steps of Leif the Lucky, the first European to discover North America in the year 1000, and the museum for one of the world’s most famous polar explorers, Jean-Baptiste Chacot. Take a tour with one of the knowledgeable guides to see the area: the birdwatching sites, the ancestral Viking house, the boiling mud springs and steam vents, bubbling lakes, the cultural centres. Enjoy a stay in one of the hotels, guesthouses or camp sites and eat delicious meals in a wide variety of restaurants, pubs and cafés. This is the Land of the Vikings!
Peninsula The Reykjanes
Map © Ólafur Valsson
www.icelandictimes.com
displaying each its own fragrant character. And where else in the world can you get a peeling soap made with real volcanic ash? The ‘Eyjafjallajökull’ and ‘Soap Eruption’ soaps combine Icelandic rapeseed oil with ashes from the latest volcanic eruption. Sounds incredible? You are very welcome to visit Soap Viking's workshop and watch the creation process.
Handy washing pieces
Purity and Volcanic Peeling Handmade soap following old traditions
I
t simply is a myth that Vikings were dirty, scruffy fellows, using their bad smell as a conquering weapon. On the contrary, archaeological findings reveal a variet y of tools for personal grooming and, as blonde hair was quite popular in the old days, Vikings also bleached their hair, by using soap.
Pamper your skin
The Soap Viking in Njardvik, close to the International Airport, follows tradition and offers a wide choice of handmade soaps, based on Icelandic products such as tallow, herbs and leaves, that will pamper your skin. Two soap pieces are dedicated to the most dramatic lovers in the Icelandic sagas,
If you’re not fond of square items, choose the roundish wool felted soap—a cool gimmick, as the foam emerges through the woollen felt, which makes a wash cloth, leaving a haptic memory of sheep. The Soap Viking additionally offers a range of handmade souvenirs that will bring Iceland back to your memory, just like the smell of a piece of their unique soap. You can also order online and the products will be shipped to your door. –
DT
Soap Viking Brekkustígur 41 • 260 Reykjanesbær
+354 618 7272 info@soapviking.com www.soapviking.com
Tveir Vitar
a cosy café & restaurant with views over the Atlantic Ocean. Only 10 minutes from the airport Garðbraut 100 • 250 Garður •+354 422 7214
Natural Pearl Garðskagi
The open-air museum in Garðskagi is located in a natural garden, which blends the beauty of the landscape with its rich animal and bird life. The museum has both a Folk and Maritime Museum and has an outstanding collection of machines. Open daily from 1 pm to 5 pm. From the terrace of the restaurant you can watch whales in their natural environment. One of the two lighthouses in the region is open to visitors. A campground offers affordable accommodation. Byggðasafn Garðskaga, Skagabraut 100 • 250 Garður gardskagi@simnet.is
www.icelandictimes.com
+354 422 7220 www.svgardur.is
35
To u r i s m , C u lt u r e
and
Business
I s s u e 21 • 2014
Connected by Energy and History
A new Path between the Blue Lagoon and Grindavík village is officially opened
T
he fishing town of Grindavík and the world famous Blue Lagoon have been linked together by geography, geology and history from the beginning, but it wasn’t until earlier this year that they were connected by an actual path. Last May, the five kilometrelong two-part path was officially named, giving visitors and locals a chance to travel between the two locations, while enjoying the fantastic surrounding scenery.
The Contest
The township of Grindavík put up a contest to find the best names for the paths and the winning suggestions are well fitting. The path from the Blue Lagoon right up to the Selskógur forest is aptly named Energy Lane, due to the harnessing of the rich geothermal energy in the area on which the Blue Lagoon is based. From Selskógur to Grindavík village, the path was given the name Ingibjörg Lane. Ingibjörg was a local woman and a community leader who, at the age of sixty, decided to utilize a fund dedicated to her to plant a forest at the foothills of Þorbjörn Mountain. In 1957 she planted the first tree
36
in an area she called Selskógur. The area has since become a cherished nature resort for the local people and leads up to several hiking paths on Þorbjörn Mountain.
What makes Grindavík interesting
Grindavík is one of the true Icelandic fishing towns, where the harbour area is its life and worth a visit in its own right. All around it you’ll find cafés, museums and a chance to see the everyday work of Icelandic fishermen as they bring in the day’s catch. For the gourmands, there is no lack of exciting culinary experiences to be found and, as is to be expected, the fish don’t get any fresher than in the quality restaurants of Grindavík.
In addition, there are plenty of exhilarating activities available in Grindavík, such as quadbike tours, cave exploring and horseback riding tours in the nearby lava fields. Then, there is the informative House of Culture and Natural Resources named Kvikan where you can learn all about how the Blue Lagoon came into being and the area’s rich cultural history. With Ingibjörg Lane and Energy Lane, the Blue Lagoon has now become a part of a much bigger journey that takes you closer to the heart of the area’s immense energy, history and culture. –
Grindavíkurbær Víkurbraut 62 • 240 Grindavík
+354 420 1100
grindavik@grindavik.is www.visitgrindavik.is
www.icelandictimes.com
VAG
Grindavík’s Harbour Café W
The Bridge Restaurant
BRÚIN
Images © Gabriel Rutenberg
My suggestion: don’t leave without having a bowl of their soup. It’s really good. While I was there, one of the owners was spending time with visiting tourists, explaining the area and showing them on a map the best places to visit. It’s in the evenings and on weekends that things really take off, though. It’s a small place but packed with character. A piano in The reputation of the Bryggjan netmakers’ café is spreading fast the corner is often pressed into use, making alk down by Grindavík’s harbour This is a fishing town and the café is a it a fun and inspiring evening. Whether you and you may see the nets. Then you fishermen’s café—though, with the growing are a local or just visiting, you’ll feel at home. – ASF know you’re there. Bryggjan’s main work number of visitors from all over the world is repairing fishing nets and lines—nets finding it, it is quickly becoming the café Café Bryggjan that would completely cover the nearby of choice in the area. Little wonder, as the Miðgarði 2 • 240 Grindavík +354 426 7100 mountain and lines that would stretch way help and friendliness of the owners is only kaffibryggjan@simnet.is www.kaffibryggjan.is beyond Reykjavik, over 50 km away. matched by the delicious food they offer.
This elegant restaurant in the fishing town of Grindavík seats 120. On the menu, you will find fish fresh from the sea along with a wide selection of pastries and a steady flow of coffee. Relax and enjoy the beautiful views of the harbour and the mountains while you enjoy a delicious Icelandic meal.There is a well-stocked bar along with television and Internet access. It’s a perfect opportunity to buy a genuine Icelandic sweater and other crafts. Hafnargata 26, 240 Grindavík
+354 426 7080
T
here’s much more to West Iceland than the spectacular Snæfellsjökull, made famous by Jules Verne, gleaming white in the sunshine. The beauty and variety of Icelandic nature is everywhere. Magnificent views overlooking mountains and glaciers, fertile regions, colourful birdlife, abundant rivers and lakes, fjords and bays, along with gushing geothermal activity. But West Iceland is more than magnificent nature. Land and history form an unbroken whole as the setting for sagas like Sturlunga, Egil’s Saga, Eyrbyggja and Laxdaela, not to mention the rich folklore and tales of adventure. Tours bring history to life as museums and historical sites abound. For the outdoor enthusiasts, there is enough to keep them busy all summer long. Horse riding tours are popular, as are hiking, fishing and golf. At the end of an active day, there are plenty of swimming pools and hot pots to relax in. Accommodation covers the complete range from sleeping bag to hotel. The mystical Breiðafjörður bay, with its countless islands is home to all kinds of sea life and tours out into the bay will visit islands covered in birds, with some offering sea fishing. The tourist information office in Borgarnes provides a great wealth of helpful material.
West Iceland Map © Ólafur Valsson
38
www.icelandictimes.com
A Setting for Every Mood Gamla Kaupfélagið Extends its Selection
O
n a tranquil peninsula in Akranes you’ll be pleasantly surprised to find Gamla Kaupfélagið, a high quality restaurant, wellknown for its menu’s wide range and popular with the locals and visitors alike.
Indian in Akranes
Gamla Kaupfélagið has recently added a tandoori oven to its repertoire, offering a variety of exciting Indian dishes. Gísli Sigurjón Þráinsson, restaurant manager, says that the Indian addition is another reflection of Gamla Kaupfélagið’s ambition to satisfy every customer. “We’re always looking for something new and exciting to keep things interesting and our customers seem to appreciate that,” says Gísli.
Catering to all customers
Gamla Kaupfélagið can cater to almost all of their customers’ tastes, whether it be roadweary travellers looking for a quick snack, gourmands looking for something fresh and inspiring, romantic couples looking for a cozy night out or larger families looking for a complete package. “The pizzas and pastas are always popular, as well as our plentiful salads, for those who know they want those. But for those looking for a more unique culinary experience, our lobster dishes never fail to satisfy,” says Gísli.
Ga mla K aupfélagið is located in a spacious house that was formerly a general store, providing each customer with an experience to suit their personal taste. After 10 o’clock on the weekends, the restaurant changes to a bar, where the friendly locals tend to gather after the working week. –
VAG
Gamla Kaupfélagið Kirkjubraut 11 • 300 Akranesi
+354 431 4343
gamlakaupfelagid@skaginn.is www.gamlakaupfelagid.is
Deep in Natural Wonders Gamli Bærinn Bed & Breakfast at Húsafell
D
riving north towards Akureyri in the Spring, I decided to wander off the ring road near the town of Borgarnes to do some exploring. Forty minutes later, I found myself at Húsafell—an area rich in history with several extraordinary waterfalls, two scenic glaciers and some pretty amazing people. Húsafell is a service village nowadays, but in former times it was a sprawling estate with a farm and rectory under the care of the 18th century Pastor Snorri Björnason. The old farmhouse from 1908, known today as Gamli Bærinn, has been renovated and turned into a quaint bed and breakfast that offers sleeping bag accommodation and made up beds. Owners Steinunn and Sæmundur will be more than happy to point you in the right direction to the natural wonders in the area, among them: ÑÑ Surtshellir - a lava tube, the longest cave in Iceland at (1970 m or 6463 ft) ÑÑ Hraunfossar - a series of low cascading falls that come up through the lava plain. ÑÑ Barnafoss falls ÑÑ Langjökull and Eiríksjökull Glaciers
www.icelandictimes.com
Beautifully sculpted rocks, the work of sculptor and musician Páll Guðmundsson, himself the great, great, great grandson of Pastor Snorri, are scattered around the grounds. A fascinating artist and musician, Páll is also known for his marimba-like instrument made of stones. Páll and the Sigur Rós band did a performance using the steinnharp, as it is called in Icelandic, several years ago in the Surtshellir lava tube cave. –
EMV
Gamli bærinn Húsafelli Húsafell • 311 Borgarbyggð
+354 895 1342 sveitasetrid@simnet.is www.husafell.is
39
IcelandExcursions’tourencapsulatesIceland
FROM FIRE TO ICE
O
n your way into Reykjavik, you can see thick columns of steam rising over the mountains. The source of much of the capital’s heating, the water is heated deep in the earth on the burning rocks of volcanoes long dormant. The tour to Jökulsárlón takes you over those mountains, past the powerful steam vents from the geothermal power station at their foot, to the south of the country. It’s easy to use superlatives in describing Iceland’s many features but this is one tour in which they are justified. Nestled on the other side of the mountains is the little garden town of Hveragerði, where the hot springs that bubble up are also used
90
for cooking and growing food, among other things. It’s a volatile region, where earthquakes have shaken things up in recent years. However, it looks placid now, with green fields and small farms stretching to the sea.
All will be revealed
One of the greatest benefits of taking a tour is that the knowledgeable guides can tell you all about the area while you are enjoying the comfort of being a passenger and not having to be concerned about the driving. Through their narration, you become immersed in the history, geology, culture and
lifestyle of both past and present whilst soaking in the beauty of the countryside.
Some of everything
Travelling down to Jökulsárlón, you pass through the countryside where Njál’s saga was enacted. In the small town of Hvolsvöllur, the Saga Centre tells the whole tragic story. Mount Hekla, known as the ‘Gateway to Hell’ is clearly visible before the town as you enter this area of volcanos both old and new. It is also an area of beautiful waterfalls and the tour stops at two very different falls: Seljalandsfoss and Skógafoss. The glaciers
you pass grow increasingly massive in size until you find yourself travelling under Europe’s largest, the mighty Vatnajökull. These glaciers are deceptive: under the ice, they hide increasingly violent, fiery volcanos, from Eyjafjallajökull to Katla to the biggest, Öræfajökull, hiding just behind Iceland’s highest peak.
Arriving in a fantasy
As the ice melts, glacial tongues stretch down towards the road. However, at one point, something unique takes place. It began in the early 1920s, when melting ice couldn’t reach
the sea and formed a lagoon. Since that time, it has grown in size year by year and now some of the melting icebergs will make it to the sea. Often, the ocean swell will sweep fish into the lagoon. The seals know this makes a good restaurant for them and they are often to be seen basking on an iceberg after a good meal. Even from the lagoon’s edge, this is a fantastic sight, as the sunlight plays off the blocks of ice. However, the tour continues on an amphibious boat, winding its way through the icebergs, up towards Vatnajökull itself. Sometimes, the ice can actually be seen breaking off this massive glacier, starting its journey to the sea.
The photo opportunities at the lagoon are quite amazing but it’s the experience of just being there, in the silence, amongst the ice, formed into fantastic shapes that really counts. The photos you take will provide beautiful memories of this trip into a fantasy world and a talking point with friends for years to come. –
ASF
Iceland Excusions Hafnarstræti 20 • 101 Reykjavík
+354 540 1313 iceland@grayline.is www.grayline.is
91
and
Business
I s s u e 21 • 2014
Dine 10 min from the Airport Vitinn, at Sandgerði’s harbour makes dining a delight
A
fter a long flight, getting your luggage and getting out of the airport at Kef lavík, that gnawing feeling in your stomach needs to be satisfied but you still have the trip to your hotel, checking in and so on–possibly an hour or more, at least. Less than 10 minutes drive away, however, is one of the most famous restaurants in Iceland. It is probably the only restaurant in all Europe to cook the delicious rock crab. The lunches and dinners here feature really fresh seafood.
The fishing boats deliver their catch only a few metres away from the restaurant itself, so you can see why. For those with a preference for meat, the roasted fillet of Icelandic lamb is highly recommended. Flights often arrive and depart early in Iceland, so Vitinn opens at 7 am to offer groups delicious breakfasts that will sustain them for hours to come. Here, again, the food is freshly cooked. Dining at Vitinn is a very inspiring introduction to Iceland. The restaurant interior, with its richly coloured wooden walls and beams, is adorned with mementos from both Sandgerði’s agricultural and seafaring past. In summer months, diners can enjoy their meals outside with a view over the harbour and sea, the clean and fresh air adding to the experience. –
ASF
Vitinn Vitatorg 7 • 245 Sandgerði
+354 423 7755 info@vitinn.is www.vitinn.is
My suggestion: don’t leave without having a bowl of their soup. It’s really good. While I was there, one of the owners was spending time with visiting tourists, explaining the area and showing them on a map the best places to visit. It’s in the evenings and on weekends that things really take off, though. It’s a small place but packed with character. A piano in The reputation of the Bryggjan netmakers’ café is spreading fast the corner is often pressed into use, making alk down by Grindavík’s harbour This is a fishing town and the café is a it a fun and inspiring evening. Whether you and you may see the nets. Then you fishermen’s café—though, with the growing are a local or just visiting, you’ll feel at home. – ASF know you’re there. Bryggjan’s main work number of visitors from all over the world is repairing fishing nets and lines—nets finding it, it is quickly becoming the café Café Bryggjan that would completely cover the nearby of choice in the area. Little wonder, as the Miðgarði 2 • 240 Grindavík +354 426 7100 mountain and lines that would stretch way help and friendliness of the owners is only kaffibryggjan@simnet.is www.kaffibryggjan.is beyond Reykjavik, over 50 km away. matched by the delicious food they offer.
Grindavík’s Harbour Café W
36
www.icelandictimes.com
Images © Gabriel Rutenberg
To u r i s m , C u lt u r e
Four Star Comfort in Keflavík
HotelKeflavíkhasbeentransformedtomeettravellers’needstoday
H
otel Kef lavík opened in 1986 and was the first 4-star hotel to open in Keflavík. It predominantly served the traveller who was just staying one night on arrival or before flying out. Since then, however, Iceland has gone from “Iceland’s Best Kept Secret” to the “Destination of Choice”.
holiday to see Iceland’s amazing sights and it now has 70 comfortable rooms available. With its proximity to the airport, Keflavík is naturally a handy place to stay but it is its proximity to a wide range of sights and experiences that is making it so popular that many visitors now use it as their base.
Complete renovations
Great for Groups
The hotel was renovated, both inside and Incentive groups find the hotel especially out, this last winter to accommodate the convenient, as it can host meetings for up to burgeoning influx of visitors coming for a 60 with its separate dining room for groups
Images by © Gabriel Rutenberg
Harbour Dining in Old Keflavik Authentic Icelandic and international cuisine at Kaffi Duus I t’s the classic seafood restaurant setting overlooking Kef lavik’s small harbour. From our window seat, we are treated to a view of the deep blue waters of Faxaflói Bay and the snow capped mountains of Snæfellness Peninsula on the horizon. A pair of kittiwakes glide overhead, completing the picture-perfect setting. From its simple beginnings as small café, Kaffi Duus has evolved into a sizable restaurant with an extensive menu, suitable for an intimate tete-á-tete or a special occasion dinner for large groups.
in addition to the restaurant and bar. Its breakfasts, known to be among the best in Iceland, are served from 5 am especially for travellers leaving or arriving on a flight. The hotel offers a free transfer service by taxi to or from the airport. It’s only a 5 minute drive, which is a real relief when you’re tired or rushed. –
ASF
Hótel Keflavík Vatnsnesvegur 12-14 • 230 Keflavík
+354 420 7000 stay@kef.is www.kef.is
The chef regaled me with one of the specialties of the house, the ‘Seafood Trio á la Duus’, comprising 3 types of fish, plus shrimp and lobster tails on a mound of fresh vegetables. Arriving steaming hot, served on a wooden platter, it was impressive and delicious. Also on the menu: authentic Indian vegetable stews, pasta dishes and a range of fresh fish, lobster and all manner of seafood dishes. If you are not a seafood lover, the ‘Grilled Trio of the House’—lamb fillet, beef and pork tenderloin, served with grilled vegetables and baked potato allows you to sample some of the best cuts of succulent Icelandic meat. Kaffi Duus will fulfill your expectations for authentic Icelandic and international cuisine in a charming location, just 5 minutes from the airport. –
EMV
Kaffi Duus Duusgötu 10 • 230 Reykjanesbæ
+354 421 7080 duus@duus.is www.duus.is
www.icelandictimes.com
37
To u r i s m , C u lt u r e
and
Business
I s s u e 21 • 2014
Just Opened
SiglunesGuesthouseoffersacomfortablestaywithanoldworldcharm
A
new guesthouse just opened in the very north of Iceland, in Siglufjörður. The building has been totally renovated and yet, with the wood panelling in the bar and lounge and the old style furniture, you feel you have stepped back in time. The beds are all new, high quality and ver y c om for t able — somet h ing you’ l l appreciate after travelling or hiking in the mountains. The second and third f loor bedrooms all have private bathrooms and
a mountain view. The six rooms on the ground floor have shared bathrooms. All have Wi-Fi access. Siglunes Guesthouse provides healthy choices for break fasts throughout the ye a r. For a d ay out h i k i ng or ot her outdoor activities, they can provide food packs and from mid-June until the end of August, the restaurant will be open for dinners in the evenings. Where possible, locally grown food is offered.
Siglufjörður is a good base for hiking and bird photography. The views are nothing short of spectacular at any time of the year and the birdlife is amazingly varied. It is a popular place for sport, culture and history and my personal favourite town for its beauty and friendliness. The trip alone is worth it and it’s a perfect place to stop when taking the scenic ‘Arctic Bow’ route around the north. –
ASF
Siglunes Guesthouse Lækjargata 10 • 580 Siglufjörður
+354 467 1222 info@hotelsiglunes.is www.hotelsiglunes.is
Allinn
Allinn restaurant specialises in Icelandic home cooking and pizzas. It is situated in a beautifully restored house overlooking Siglufjörður’s main square. It is reasonably priced and suits people of all ages. Aðalgata 30 • 580 Siglufjörður
+354 467 1111
Sauðanes Mountain Horses Go horse riding in the Midnight Sun with Mountain Horses at Suðanes farm that offers a wide variety of tailor made riding tours to suit anyone from fanatical horse enthusiasts to first-time riders in the beautiful landscapes of the fjords and valleys of Tröllaskagi only about 40 km away from the Arctic Circle. The tours can vary in time from one or two hours up to 4 days. Beautiful evening tours in the summer’s Midnight Sun in one of the best areas in the world to enjoy this spectacular phenomena. Enjoy the fun of riding happy, healthy and well kept horses in beautiful natural surroundings. Sauðanes • 580 Siglufjörður saudanes@visir.is
58
www.icelandictimes.com
+354 4671375 fjallahestar.is
Treasure at the World’s End Siglufjörður Hostel provides great accommodation for travellers
O
ne of the most glamorous hotels in Iceland in the hey-day of the herring bonanza in the 1930s, Hvanneyri guesthouse and hostel is still the place to stay when you are in far north of Iceland in Siglufjörður on the Troll peninsula. Today, it is a family-owned and run hostel and it has that feeling of staying in a warm, comfortable family home with helpful family members who take an interest in you.
Whether you are travelling alone, with a family or in a group, you will find a friendly welcome and comfortable stay for budgetconscious travellers with all the facilities one expects in a modern guesthouse and hostel. That includes free Wi-Fi, parking, a barbeque grill, a guest kitchen—and free coffee, too. This has been an international centre ever since it was built. Its reputation has spread across the continents and it is a hub for
Eating at the End of the World Thebrightyellowhouseistherestaurantandtheredone,thecaféinSiglufjörður S iglufjörður feels like it is as far north as you can go. This former herring centre is set in a beautiful fjord and is a very popular place to hike from and enjoy the extraordinary birdlife and nature. The pristine beauty of the landscape is matched only by the atmosphere of the town, where there is much to see and do. When you have built up a good appetite in the nature, you know you can dine at one of the best restaurants outside Reykjavik.
Hannes Boy is the bright yellow building right on the harbour, just a few feet from the boats, landing their fresh fish. Inside, the wood-beamed restaurant, with its lantern wall lights, wooden tables and chairs is bright and cheerful. The menu includes fish and lamb and you’re guaranteed a delicious meal in the inspiring atmosphere of this warm and welcoming fishing town. If you’d rather have something lighter, the Kaffi Rauðka in the equally bright
www.icelandictimes.com
travellers from many different nations, some of whom return year after year. L oc ate d on t he m a i n st re e t , it i s surrounded by the town’s bakery, restaurants and shops, making it a perfect place to set up base for hiking or photography—or just simply enjoying the spectacularly beautiful countryside with its mountains and fjord. –
ASF
Hvanneyri Guesthouse Adalgata 10 • 580 Siglufjörður
+354 467 1506 order@hvanneyri.com www.hvanneyri.com
red building next door is your place. This is a lively place—especially on Friday and Saturday nights, with its live bands. It’s a great spot for lunch, for getting to know the local people and enjoying their lifestyle. –
HÞ
Rauðka Gránugata 5 • 580 Siglufjörður
+354 467 1550 raudka@raudka.is www.raudka.is
59
To u r i s m , C u lt u r e
and
Business
I s s u e 21 • 2014
Sailing with the ‘Ambassador’
Ambassador to the Whales his is the second year of scheduled tours from Akureyri with the ‘Ambassador’ whale-watching ship. The beautiful town of Akureyri itself, full of old historic houses, is simply captivating.
The Whales’ home
The North of Icela nd is home to a ll the species of whales found around the
The sailing schedule
Tours leave in the morning at 8.30, the afternoon at 13.00, an evening tour at 20.30 in country. Eyjafjörður, particularly, is home June and July and from 1st-31st August at 17.30, to Humpback Whales—gigantic animals giving you the opportunity to watch the whales who love singing and slapping their fins and enjoy the bright and beautiful colours of and tails! northern evening sun simultaneously! – NNH/ASF It is beautiful to watch these magnificent creatures jump up out of t he ocea n! Ambassador Additionally, Minke Whales, Dolphins, Torfunesbryggja • 600 Akureyri +354 462 6800 Harbour Porpoises and Blue Whales are info@ambassador.is www.ambassador.is seen in the fjord.
See the whales from Akureyri’s specialised whale watching ship
T
The name ‘Ambassador’ refers to its function of connecting whales and humans and it has great viewing facilities to do that. It sails three times a day during summer from Akureyri’s central harbour, next to the Hof cultural house. Tours take from three to four hours, during which you get guidance about the nature of the whales, the sea, the fjord, the mountains— the whole eco-system. Being protected from winds and weather by the mountains ensures that it’s calmer than the open sea.
prepared and cooked to order on the spot to get the most flavour.
Eat What You Like for Less
Both Krua Siam and Krua Thai are known for their reasonable prices. In addition, Krua Siam offers a full five course lunch buffet every day between 11:30 and 13:30. Here, you can eat all you like for the same good price. With a large range of dishes to choose from, you can eat like a Thai—taking a piece from a number of different dishes. It’s a great way to eat as a family or with a group of friends.
The North Eats Thai
Drinks to go with the meal
A number of wines and spirits go well with Thai food, so Krua Siam has a bar and The Popular Krua Siam Restaurant Feeds Folk in Akureyri stocks alcoholic beverages—along with hat inspired experienced Thai cooks it is easy to find Krua Siam opposite the juices and soft drinks. and kitchen assistants to leave the famous Hof concert hall by the harbour. exotic lands of South East Asia to venture to Catering to the Need the Land of the Vikings, I cannot imagine. Set Apart The restaurant also provides Take Away and But I’m very glad they did. After opening Besides the experienced Thai staff, what sets Home Delivery options, but to get the most the Reykjavik food scene to their unique these restaurants apart is that all the spices, flavour, eat it right away. – ASF blend of Thai ingredients and Icelandic rice and noodles that are uniquely Thai are meats and vegetables, the intrepid cooks brought in directly from Thailand. However, Krua Siam continued north to Akureyri. the meat and vegetables are pure Icelandic Strandgötu 13 • 600 Akureyri +354 466 3800 Established in 2007 and now under the and this is what contributes to the delicious kruasiam@kruasiam.is www.kruasiam.is same management as Reykjavik’s Krua Thai, flavour in every meal. Each meal is freshly
W
60
www.icelandictimes.com
To u r i s m , C u lt u r e
and
Business
I s s u e 21 • 2014
Básar Guesthouse in Grímsey Where Everybody Knows Your Name
F
or those used to living in metropolitan areas or even small towns, a visit to Grímsey will surely change the way you feel about your neighbours. Grímsey is a tiny island of only two square miles, located 25 miles north of Iceland and has a population of less than a hundred. The small population ensures that everyone has a share in the community’s responsibilities and that everyone knows everybody. For example: one inhabitant, Ragnhildur Hjaltadóttir, shares the duties of being the manager of local guesthouse, Básar, operator of a small banking branch in Grímsey, airport manager and chairwoman for the local women’s club. “In order to live happily in such a tight-knit community, you have to be 100% content with yourself and be generous to the community. We have an extremely active social life and there is really no other alternative than to take part in it. We tend to celebrate every occasion we can think of and most people I know from the mainland tell me that the social life here is much more energetic. For example our community centre
62
is sometimes even booked the whole week through and when it’s someone’s birthday the whole island is invited,” says Ragnhildur. Activities in Grímsey are plentiful. You have the option of going sea angling, which can be arranged in Básar. You can spend the day bird watching as the island hosts various species of birds. If in doubt as to where the best spot is, simply ask the locals who will gladly point them out to you. Then of course, you can just explore the entire island on foot, see the church, chat with the fishermen at the pier (though not all of them speak English but they’ll welcome you anyway) or drop by at the community centre and see if there is a bingo game or a lottery going on. R agnhildur says isla nd visitors a re uniformly welcomed to the island and commonly invited to join in on whatever events the locals are celebrating. “We like to t hink of t his environment a s more personal than in many crowded populations. For example, I never leave my guests unattended and I often take guests staying at Básar for a drive around
www.icelandictimes.com
the island and introduce them to our daily lives” says Ragnhildur. Básar offers 18 beds in eight different rooms, either made up or for sleeping bags. Breakfast is available, as well as full meals if requested. The guesthouse is located next to the Arctic Circle and you only have to take three steps outside the guesthouse to cross it. From 12th June until 20th August, flights depart for Grímsey daily at 13:00 from Akureyri. Prior to that, flights depart three times a week. A ferry also leaves from Dalvík at 9:00 am three times a week (Mon, Wed, Fri). –
Básar Básum • 611 Grímsey
+354 467 3103 gagga@simnet.is none
EMV
A Home Away from Home Sigtún Guesthouse in Husavík
T
he timelessness of a typical Icelandic fishing village is reflected in Husavík with its quiet streets and picturesque houses. Here, you can soak up the atmosphere of times past while staying at Sigtún Guesthouse.
walk from the harbour, the constant source of life and profit for the community. This friendly little house has eight rooms with made-up beds, two single rooms, four double or twin rooms with separate beds and one family room with comfortable beds Comfort without overcrowding for six. In total, Sigtún has the capacity to A r e nov a t e d old f a m i l y hou s e , t he house sixteeen guests, thus creating a nice guesthouse is situated just five minutes closeness without ever being overcrowded.
A Guesthouse in the Country The Farm at Ytra Laugaland offers an invigorating stay
I
n the unspoiled valley of Eyjafjörður, some 12 km from Akureyri, the Ytra Laugaland farm has been opening its doors to families and independent travellers for the last five years. The house has large, comfortable
rooms: one suite for a family and three twin bedrooms. One of the bathrooms has a jacuzzi—so relaxing after a long day out. The farm was built in 1927 and is beautifully decorated. Owners Óttar and
www.icelandictimes.com
The guests have access to two bathrooms with showers and a bathtub and a kitchen with a broiler. Wireless Internet access is available as well as the free use of the house computer. A washing machine and clothes line outside are available to use when needed.
Your room in the North
Every effort has been made to create a home away from home and within your room at Sigtún Guesthouse, the world can either be shut out or welcomed with open arms. Clean, soft and inviting the pillows will cradle your secrets and your dreams. – SS
Guesthouse Sigtun Túngötu 13 • 640 Húsavík
+354 864 0250 gsigtun@gsigtun.is www.gsigtun.is
Vilborg have created a cosy, family-friendly home. The beds have health mattresses for a comfortable sleep and breakfasts are wholesome and healthy for a good start to the day. There are facilities for self-catering and there is a health-food restaurant just a minute’s drive away. Also close by is the swimming pool, less than 5 min away. A TV lounge and Internet access provide access to the outside world, should you need it while the farm is in a most beautiful valley, with a view clear up the fjord to the Arctic Sea. –
ASF
Gistiheimili Vilborgar Ytra-Laugaland • 601 Akureyri
+354 463 1472 hrisey@hrisey.net www.hrisey.net
63
To u r i s m , C u lt u r e
and
Business
I s s u e 19 • 2013
Just Begging to be Explored
Breiðdalur Valley has 7 hotels, 6 drinking spots and 190 residents
T
he East of Iceland is renowned for its unique geological formations and for its magnificent variety of semi-precious stones and minerals due, in part, to natural erosion by the elements. Breiðdalur Valley shares in this rich heritage that is often overlooked by mainstream tourists and as one of Iceland’s hidden treasures, the wide and verdant valley is just begging to be explored. There are many old hiking trails that criss-cross the Breiðdalur district which have been used for centuries as postal routes and walking paths that once connected the isolated villages. In an effort to open the district to more tourism, a local hiking group has started an ongoing project of
88
mapping and marking the ancient paths, making them more accessible and safe for hikers with the use of a GPS system. Uncountable waterfalls descend from Breiðdalur’s many peaks, and just about every farm in the valley is backed by its very own ‘private’ waterfall. There are wonderful picnic spots around the valley as well as opportunities for horse riding and salmon fishing and you can camp just about anywhere that is not farm land.
The Museum of Heritage and Geology
The Gamla Kaupfélag which dates from 1906, is Breiðdalsvík ’s oldest building and was recently renovated to house the district’s Heritage and Geology Museum. The museum showcases the lives and works of two of Breiðdalur’s most famous scholars-Professor Stefan Einarsson, and Dr. George P. Walker. Stefan Einarsson was a prolific writer, linguist and grammarian who taught for many years at Johns Hopkins University in Baltimore and received Iceland’s highest honour, the Order of the Falcon in 1939. A n ‘adopted son’ of Breiðdalur, the world-renowned British vulcanologist, Dr. George P. Walker, spent many years doing research in East Iceland, particularly in the Breiðdalur Valley. He was one of a few foreigners to receive the Icelandic
www.icelandictimes.com
Order of the Falcon (the equivalent of a knighthood), conferred upon him by the President of Iceland in 1977. Both men contributed much to their respective fields of research and the unique exhibitions are full of fascinating details and artifacts from their life and work. –
EMV
Breiðdalshreppur Ásvegur 32 • 760 Breiðdalsvík
+354 470 5560 hreppur@breiddalur.is www.breiddalur.is
Wilderness in Full Colour
Stafafell Guesthouse is a base to the rugged beauty of Lónsöræfi
S
tafafell Guesthouse is a base to the rugged beauty of Lónsöræfi. Stafafell Guesthouse is situated on a hill with panoramic view of the surrounding countryside, the coastline and the vividly coloured mountain range. The shallow fjord or brackish “Lón” lagoon is only 15 km away. It is famous for attracting the densest population of whooper swans in the world. Its beaches are strewn with colourful pebbles, polished by the Atlantic Ocean. The guesthouse was originally built as a parsonage in 1897. It was converted into a youth hostel in 1983 with room for up to 30 people in the house and the two cosy
cottages that were added. These each have two bedrooms, a kitchen, bathroom and a living room with a TV. There is a large, fully-equipped kitchen in the main house, where you can prepare your meals. (Dinners are not provided, so you will need to buy food ahead of time.) By the guesthouse there is a well equipped camp site with shower facilities, washing machine and a dryer.
A Hiker’s Heaven
Stafafell is well placed on Road 1 for visiting both mountains, glaciers and fjords. It is surrounded by popular hiking
trails that take you through some awesome countryside. For instance, a 4-5 hour hike will take you to Hvannagil, a canyon made of colourful rhyolite on the eastern bank of the Jökulsá í Lóni river where you will see rich bird life, possibly reindeer. Hikes vary in difficulty from easy to very demanding, requiring proper equipment. S ome a re a s c a n be re ac he d u si n g SuperJeeps—but be aware that regular SUV’s will not suffice. This area can challenge you to the limit. For the inexperienced or novice, there is still plenty to enjoy and staff at the guesthouse can provide reliable information – ASF and counsel.
Stafafell Guesthouse Stafafelli, 781 Höfn
+3544781717 info@stafafell.is www.stafafell.is
Við Voginn Restaurant
A restaurant and coffee shop right down at the harbour A photo exhibition, featuring bird photos from Iceland A shop selling food and general stores Enjoy a meal or coffee with a beautiful view Vogalandi 2 • 765 Djúpavogur vidvoginn@simnet.is
+354 478 8860 www.djupivogur.is/dalvefur/?id=8314
Langabúð
langabrú
Museum, cultural centre & café in the oldest building in Djúpavogur, a log building from 1790 An exhibition of sculptor Ríkarður Jónsson The café serves light lunch & delicious cakes Löngubúð • 250 Djúpavogur • +354 478 8220
www.icelandictimes.com
89
To u r i s m , C u lt u r e
and
Business
I s s u e 19 • 2013
A Downtown Village
Reykjavik Hostel Village offers Budget Travellers the Best
I
n the centre of Reykjavik, surrounded by the main shopping street, a major art gallery, a park, and a short distance from the local and up-country bus stations, Hótel Flóki has been transformed into a small village of pleasant houses for budgetconscious visitors, families, groups and travellers who are touring the country. Each of its 5 houses has a suburban feel to it, with its own garden—great for sunbathing and barbecues. Visitors feel almost as if they are living in an Icelander’s house—except for the friendly, multinational clientele, many of whom are returning to explore more of the country.
up-country trip or tour, both the Reykjavik airport and the BSÍ bus station are close by. The Reykjavik Hostel Village can supply rental cars and book tours for you and will also take care of luggage, bikes, etc., while you head out on a trip and you can pick them up on your return. So the more adventurous can try different areas to explore without having to lug everything with them.
Enjoy the Reykjavik Scene
In recent years, Iceland has become famous world-wide for its dynamic music and cultural scene like Iceland Airwaves, for example. Many want to come to enjoy the concerts but find hotel costs somewhat offputting. The conversion of Hótel Flóki to a Hostel Village means that nobody should feel excluded as there is now a reasonably-priced option in a very good location, with all the concert locations in easy reach.
Conference accommodation
Increasingly, Reykjavik has also been the centre for conferences, so it’s valuable to know there’s a clean and comfortable room in a nice house within easy reach of the major conference centres. Laugavegur, the main shopping street, is a hub of restaurants and eateries of all kinds, of art and cultural shops, clothing shops and places of interest. It leads to the centre of town and the nightclub scene. Friday and Saturdays, things get started late, so there’s plenty of time to eat before enjoying events that go on right through the bright summer nights. When you want to get home, the Hostel Village is right there.
Your Reykjavik base
The Village makes an ideal spot to base from. It’s within easy reach of every kind of restaurant, café and eating place—not to mention shops of all types, too. The local bus, or stræto, passes right in front of the main building and a large bus station is only a short walk. When coming from the airport, the transit buses will drop you off right at the door. When planning an
Book ahead for the best
It’s wise to book in advance to secure your place to enjoy Iceland. –
ASF
Reykjavik Hostel Village Flókagata 1 • 105 Reykjavik
+354 552 1155 info@hostelvillage.is www.hostelvillage.is
14
www.icelandictimes.com
glacier gleams in the evening sunshine. As you eat, the Andrea cruises around the historic Viðey and Engey islands in the bay. As it sails, you’ll probably see the puffins caring for their fledglings or relaxing after a day’s food gathering. The dinner, as you would expect, is mouth-watering and full of flavour. Here, you can eat in comfort, unrushed, being DinewithSpecialToursontheAndreasailingthecoastofReykjavik served by diligent waiters and waitresses ou can see the beautiful blue and luxurious surroundings of the Andrea, with a top class meal. A full complement of white boat down at Reykjavik’s Old listening to the strains of live instrumental wines and spirits are available to go with the Harbour. Every Friday evening through the music in the background. dinner and a decadent dessert rounds off the summer, it slips its moorings to sail around The view, with the sun starting to sink beautiful evening. – ASF the Faxafloi Bay, filled with diners enjoying toward the western horizon, turning the a full 5-course meal, courtesy of Kopar, one sky a flaming red and gold, is outstanding. Special Tours of Reykjavik’s top restaurants. On one side of the boat, you see Reykjavik’s Ægisgarur 1 • 101 Reykjavik +354 560 8800 You are greeted with a welcome drink skyline and the Harpa concert hall in a new info@specialtours.is www.specialtours.is as the ship sets sail, surrounded by the light while, on the other side, the Snæfells
Reykjavik Dinner Cruise Y
WHALE WATCHING
DAILY T O
ALL YEAURS R!
Educational and interactive!
Puffin Express
Sea Angling
Special Tours & Life of Whales | Reykjavik | +354 560 8800 | www.specialtours.is | www.lifeofwhales.is
Deu
tsch
ISSN 2298 -317 1
€4
Von
V stille on Po eten nB , e
eA
usg
abe
Now also available in French and German The Icelandic Times is on sale in all good bookshops in Iceland
www.icelandictimes.com
15
Interview with a Whale
AnincrediblestoryfromtheWestfjordsbyMagnúsKristjánsson
O
n the first weekend of August in 2009, which is a national holiday in Icela nd, I had a n experience that h a s c h a n ge d my l i fe. I wa s st ay i ng with my family on the Hella farm in Steingrímsfjörður in the Westfjords. It’s a wonderful place where you can immerse yourself in nature, and listen to the grass growing. On the far side of the fjord you’ll find Hólmavík, a fishing village with a few hundred inhabitants. At the mouth of the fjord there is Drangsnes with a similar population, and f inally, the island of Grimsey, which is only inhabited by puffins.
58
Adventure in the morning
On this morning, our kids had made their way to the beach early, looking for adventure. Usually nothing happens when you are looking for adventure. But this morning was ver y different. Our k ids found a wha le on t he Hveravík beach. A real blue whale that was still alive, blowing water fountains into the air. We all rushed to the beach and gazed at one of the largest living animals in the world, right in front of us. It must have been hunting for mackerel a nd got too close to the beach and became stranded in the shallow water. Mackerel have previously not been so far north,
www.icelandictimes.com
but marine scientists believe that the increased temperature of the oceans is responsible for this new development.
With the whale in the water
I dressed in my wetsuit, my friends tied a rope around my waist to secure me and I started wading through the water to t he colossu s. W hat a n incred ible feeling to touch him, to sit on his back, to feel its gurgling and bubbling, while little fountains of water escaped from its blowholes! It seemed like the whale knew exactly that we wanted to help. T h at w a s not e a s y, a s it mu s t h ave weighed 200 tons.
To the rescue!
The 20-ton MS Sundhani from Drangsnes came to our aid and, with the help of the approaching high tide we would try to drag the whale into deeper water. We tied a rope around its tail and succeeded, using all the machinery to the full, to actually move the colossus. It responded initially with some panic movements, which is understandable, but then it calmed down and followed the ship out into the fjord. Half of the rescue of this magnificent creature was done!
Magic between whale and human
In the end, the removal of the rope was rather a larger problem, and we finally decided to
just cut it. This was the start of the second incredible story, as the whale remained close to the ship. Not only that but it swam around it several times and picked up the rope with its head, as if it wanted us to understand that the loose, hanging rope would cause its death. So I went into the water one last time—this time on my own and in full confidence that the whale would trust me. And the miracle happened—the whale lay calmly in the water and waited, until I had removed the rope. Only then did it swim quietly away. Later, from the beach, I could watch my friend for a long time, breaking through the waters of the fjord, on his way to freedom. We both learned a lot that day.
www.icelandictimes.com
Focus on French
Magnús company, Aðalsendibílar focusses on the needs of French visitors, with all the guides being graduates in French.
Tours for groups large and small
Tours run throughout the year, with vehicles to suit the conditions and the groups’ needs. Whether a coach for large groups or SuperJeeps for smaller groups, the tours visit all the main sites and custom tours are a speciality. –
DT/ASF
Islande.is-Aðalsendibílar Víkurhvarfi 2 • 112 Reykjavik
+354 778 8600 magnus@islande.is www.islande.is
59
T
iny, tight-knit communities extend a warm welcome here. A well-developed infrastructure, with regular flights from Reykjavik to Egilsstaðir, the main hub of the area, enable visitors to enjoy the beauty of the region. The ferry from Europe docks at the 19 th century town of Seyðisfjörður, making the East a good starting point for a holiday. Tours of all types take visitors to Europe’s largest glacier, stark highland mountains and sweet-smelling heathlands and, for fishing and kayaking, to mirror-smooth fjords. The hiking nature-lover can discover countless spectacular routes, with frequent waterfalls and reindeer sightings. The beauty of this area has drawn artists and designers to the little towns, which have developed their own cultural flavour, many with a strong European—and especially, French or Norwegian—influence. There is a long history of folklore here. Borgarfjörður eystri is known as the capital of the elves. It’s also an area of hiking trails and birdwatching, with puffins being especially plentiful. Brilliantly coloured semi-precious stones are found in the mountains and Petra’s Stone Museum in Stöðvarfjörður holds probably the world’s largest private collection.The numerous hotels, guesthouses and camping areas attest to the rising popularity of the area.
East Iceland Map © Ólafur Valsson
www.icelandictimes.com
Guarded by a Firey Dragon The Otherworldly Landscape of Vopnafjörður
I
magine discovering a new land in the north in medieval days where you are met by a mighty flying dragon, protecting it. This was the sight that greeted a Nordic seafarer, according to Heimskringla, an Old Norse kings’ saga. To d ay, Vopn a f jörð u r s t a nd s a s a spectacular example of the grand, harsh, but beautiful, Icelandic landscape. It was first settled by Viking seafarers 1100 years ago. The name, meaning, ‘Weapon Fjord’ comes from a settler called Eyvindur vopni. It also boasts of its own Saga, Vopnfirðinga saga, written around a dispute between local chieftains. The dragon is Vopnafjörður’s symbol and one of the four ‘landvættir’ – guardians of Iceland pictured on Iceland’s coat of arms. The wide sandy coastline hosts a myriad of marine life forms and the magnificent
cliffs and rocky islets of Vopnafjörður are superb. They culminate in natural wonders such as Skjólfjörur, accessible by driving the old highway east of the village, before it becomes the high pass of Hellisheiði between Fljótsdalshérað and Vopnafjörður and provides a spectacular view. Vopnafjörður village, picturesque with its colourful old houses surrounded by rocky cliffs and islets, lies on the small Kolbeinstangi peninsula. It was one of Iceland’s major commercial harbours in the 18 th and 19 th centuries. In the last half century, the fishing industry grew considerably and is the largest business sector in the area today.
harbour. It remembers the thousands of emigrants who fled the region to America in the late 19 th and early 20 th centuries following the devastating Askja volcanic eruption of 1875. It also commemorates brothers Jón Múli Árnason and Jónas Árnason, who wrote several jazzy musicals in the fifties and sixties, which have become classics of Icelandic popular culture. The historical Bustarfell farm is a regional museum where history comes alive through storytelling and workshops each summer. The same family lived here in a large turf farmhouse from 1532 until 1966. Only a few such farmhouses are preserved today.
A Literary inspiration
One of Iceland’s most renowned novels, ‘Independent People’, by the Nobel Laureate Halldór Laxness, was greatly inf luenced by the struggle of poor farmers in the Remembering the past countryside surrounding Vopnafjörður. The Kaupvangur museum is located in The area is the childhood home of another a large old wooden house down by the great f igure of 20 t h centur y Icelandic literature, Gunnar Gunnarsson, who grew up on Ljótsstaðir. This famous writer wrote about the country life of Iceland, influenced by the people, nature and culture of Vopnafjörður. Two great salmon rivers f low through the untouched landscape surrounding Vopnaf jörður Bay. A cosy geothermal swimming pool with a nice view over the river sits on the banks of the Selá. –
NNH/ASF
Vopnafjarðarhreppur Hamrahlíð 15 • 690 Vopnafjörður
+354 473 1300
skrifstofa@vopnafjardarhreppur.is www.vopnafjardarhreppur.is
65
To u r i s m , C u lt u r e
and
Business
I s s u e 21 • 2014
TaketimefortheExtraordinary Seyðisfjörður’s Coat of Many Colours is Revealed
S
ilent, majestic, eternal. Whether you enter the Seyðisfjörður fjord from the east by ferry or drive down the serpentine Fjarðarheiði mountain pass from the west, you will be enraptured by the incomparable beauty of one of East Iceland’s most spectacular fjords. Known equally well for its rich cultural life as for its truly breathtaking landscapes, Seyðisfjörður’s notable attributes embrace each other in an ethereal and unforgettable way. Lonely Planet has placed the fishing village seventh on its list dating back to the days of Danish rule, of 15 Icelandic must-see destinations. decorate the fjord like colourful baubles strewn across a spectacular panorama. Live exhibits Cultural Gems like the sound-dome sculpture above the fjord, Located only 26 km from Egilsstaðir and a or the Winter 2013 exhibition of paintings by 30 minute drive from the main Road No. 1, Dieter Roth at the Skaftafell Art Centre could this storybook village with its 700 inhabitants well be one of the high points of your stay. offers visitors a flourishing cultural life year round. Carefully preserved timber houses Did you know? For centuries, Seyðisfjörður played an important role in the modernisation of Iceland. Not only was the harbour the main port that connected the island with the continent, it also opened extensive trade routes to Europe and the rest of the world. And did you know that Seyðisfjörður also carries the distinction of being the first Icelandic village to have an undersea telephone cable, as well as the first power plant?
68
www.icelandictimes.com
Slow down and simply enjoy
As winter yields to spring, Seyðisfjörður becomes an oasis of peace and romance with its deep blue waters and breathtaking snowcovered mountains, inviting the traveller to slow down and enjoy its spring persona. Activities such as hiking, jeep tours and skiing are all possible. Hike the mountains above the fjord or contemplate the bonds of man and wilderness at the Skalanes Heritage Centre and Guesthouse in a setting that allows you an unparalleled glimpse of Iceland’s beguiling nature. B o ok y ou r s e l f a n i g ht or t wo i n Seyðisfjörður’s elegant Hotel Aldan or in any one of the comfortable guesthouses to experience Iceland in a way that the more hurried traveller misses. Evenings in Seyðisfjörður have a magic all their own; a multitude of stars in the night sky shimmer in the quiet waters of the fjord, though, as summer approaches, you will have to stay up later to see them. There is a lot to discover at Iceland’s East End. Take time for the extraordinary.
–
Seyðisfjörður Hafnargata 44 • 710 Seyðisfjörður
+354 861 7789
ferdamenning@sfk.is www.visitseydisfjordur.com
DT
Embraced by the Nature of East Iceland Fishing, Hiking and Hunting in the Tranquility of Breiðdalur Valley with the Elves and Trolls
T
here are still many areas of Iceland that have, for whatever reason, not yet attracted too much in the way of masstourism. Breiðdalur Valley in East Iceland is just one of those places. As remote as it is beautiful, the valley has only a few farms scattered here and there and you can easily have the entire valley pretty much to yourself. There are a good variety of marked trails which are excellent for day hikes and you will also find three of Iceland’s most beautiful fishing rivers, Breiðdalsá and its attractive waterfall Beljandi, the Tinnudalsá River and Norðurdalsá River. While autumn is an ideal time for hunting geese, ptarmigan and even reindeer, fishing for brown trout is possible throughout the year. So where to stay while surrounded by so much natural beauty? Hótel Staðarborg, of course! So deep is the peace and quiet
that guests often wake up to see a herd of reindeer grazing right outside their window. In the small stand of trees behind the hotel, small birds flit from branch to branch, singing and chattering. Owner/manager Arnar Stefánsson tells me that many tourists ask him if this is the right place to see elves and trolls. “I always tell them, yes, this is exactly the right place!” Hóte l St a ð a rb or g i s for merly t he schoolhouse in Breiðda lur which has now been thoroughly renovated and can accommodate 54 people in 30 spacious rooms complete with private facilities and television. Sleeping bag accommodation and a camping site is also available. The hotel’s restaurant serves á la carte meals and refreshments are available throughout the day. Facilities at Hótel Staðarborg include The hotel is located on Route 1, about 7km a jacuzzi and a grassy sports field. from the village of Breiðdalsvík. It is 625km from Reykjavík and 75km from Egilsstaðir. The hotel is also an ideal stop for those who are travelling by the Norraena ferry, as it is only about 100km from Seyðisfjörður. So will you finally get a glimpse of one of those elusive elves or trolls here in the natural paradise that is Breiðdalur Valley? You’ll have to find the answer to that one yourself! –
EMV
Hótel Staðarborg Staðarborg • 760 Breiðdalsvík
+354 475 6760 stadarborg@simnet.is www.stadarborg.is
www.icelandictimes.com
69
To u r i s m , C u lt u r e
and
Business
I s s u e 21 • 2014
Dine in the Langoustine Capital Humarhöfnin satisfies the hunger for whole langoustine in Höfn I celand is known for some of the finest fresh fish in the world and a large share of the country’s catch is landed at Höfn í Hornaf irði, on the south-east coast. Höfn (which sounds like ‘Hup’ to our ears and means harbour) is also known as the langoustine capital of Iceland, where several thousand visitors gather in the town for the annual Humarhátið (Langoustine) Festival, to be held in June. You would expect the langoustine capital of Iceland to have a fine-dining restaurant that can do justice to the lovely little crustacean. The Humarhöfnin sea-food restaurant, which has been a big success since it was opened
over 8 years ago by Anna Þorsteinsdóttir, her brother Ari Þorsteinsson and their spouses, has definitely earned that accolade.
A menu to entice any connoisseur
A f avou r ite w it h tou r i s t s f rom t he Mediterranean countries, Humarhöfnin was the first restaurant in Iceland to serve whole langoustine, though it has now become popular in the town. The concept is still new in Iceland, so each diner who orders langoustine receives illustrated instructions on the finer points of using the lobster cracker and fork that come with the dish.
The menu was created and developed by the French chef Jacques DuPont and his many dishes such as the beautifully presented ‘Mix of Whole Langoustine and Tails’ and the famous ‘Black Magic Sauce’ have been very successful. Paired with one of Humarhöfnin’s specially selected wines, you are in line for an absolute feast. Also on the menu, the arctic char is a delight. The crème brûlée, made from local eggs and imported Madagascar vanilla will have you swooning and you might want or need to order a double portion. The casual, bright and lively décor fits Huma rhöfnin’s ha rbour location a nd the friendly wait staff will be happy to point out the very boat that brought in the day’s catch, moored at the docks just a short distance away. The building itself was originally the town co-op before it was totally renovated and transformed into this beautiful restaurant. There is an exhibit on the 2 nd f loor which portrays the history of the house. If you are a langoustine af icionado, you can f ly, drive or take a bus to Höfn where you will find your seafood haven awaiting you. – EMV
Humarhöfnin Hafnarbraut 4 • 780 Höfn
+354 478 1200 info@humarhofnin.is www.humarhofnin.is
70
www.icelandictimes.com
The Vast Vatnajökull In the Realm of the Vatnajökull Glacier
T
he re g ion d i re c t ly bene at h t he Vatnajökull glacier is a 260km long, narrow stretch of land that spans from the West of Skaftafell in Vatnajökull National Park to the town of Höfn on its eastern border. The life of people of the region has been shaped and molded according to the dictates of nature, in a region which, until as recently as the 1970s, was one of the most isolated parts of Iceland. The majority of its roughly 2,100 inhabitants live and work in Höfn, the area’s largest population centre; the rest live on farms scattered throughout the region.
A Photographer’s Dream
Driving through this enchanted area, the vastness of the glacier, with its various glacier outlets, makes a compelling impression on the mind. The extensive views across the black sands of Skeiðarásandur towards Skaftafellsjökull glacier leave one in awe of
in Iceland: Hvannadalshnúkur at 2,110m or 6,920 feet, as well as the lowest point below sea level at the famous Jökulsárlón glacial lagoon 260 metres at its deepest. As a national park, it’s the largest in Europe. the glacier’s sheer magnitude, relentless in its crushing effect upon the land beneath it. T he beautif u l Sva r tifoss water fa ll, one of the main attractions within the Vatnajökull National Park, is well known for its underlying black basalt hexagonal columns.
Points of interest
Activities in the area are numerous. Take a snowmobile, jeep or hiking tour on the glacier, cruise gently around blue-tinged icebergs on a boat ride at Jökulsárlón glacial lagoon, observe puffins at Ingólfshöfði, or get a bird’s eye view over the glacier on a sightseeing f light. What could be more Some impressive numbers magical than golfing in the midnight sun Vatnajökull is larger than all the glaciers in or enjoying the warm natural hot baths Europe combined, (there are smaller glaciers at Hoffell? These are just a few of the in Norway and Russia) and is one of the possibilities in the Vatnajökull Region. largest glacier in the world outside of the polar icecaps. It boasts the highest elevation Local Festivities Taste some of those lovely langoustine dishes during the annual Lobster Festival in Höfn, late in June, and don’t forget the not-to-bemissed annual fireworks extravaganza at Jökulsárlón on in late August. For more in-depth information about Vatnajökull National Park, check out the visitors centre, a major hub for hiking and mountaineering expeditions in the area, open year round. –
EMV
Ríki Vatnajökuls Ragnar Th.
Litlubrú 2 • 780 Hornafirði
+354 470 8084 info@visitvatnajokull.is www.visitvatnajokull.is
www.icelandictimes.com
71
To u r i s m , C u lt u r e
72
and
Business
I s s u e 21 • 2014
www.icelandictimes.com
On Top of
the World
Atimidsoul’sapproachtothemightyVatnajökull
Bed down for the night in the heartoftheVatnajökulldistrict atVagnsstaðirYouthHostel,just 28 km east of the Jökulsárlón glacier lagoon. Sleeping bag accommodation,linenrental, awellequippedkitchen,dining and lounge areas, as well as 3 fully equipped cottages are offered.Thereisacampground with good sanitary facilities. The coast, just 1500 m from Vagnsstaðirprovidesnumerous possibilitiesforscenicwalksand birdwatching.Mapsofthearea are available at the hostel.
T
he weather report was looking good—a full day of sunshine ahead of me and temperatures above 10°C. I was on my way to a face to face encounter with the world’s third largest glacier, the mighty Vatnajökull. This trip would mark a couple of firsts for me—my first time ever to set foot on a glacier, and my first time to travel by snowmobile. Needless to say I was really excited! I first met Kristján and Bjarney, of Glacier Jeeps, at our pre-arranged meeting place: the crossroads of Route No.1 and F985. This is the official meeting place for all Glacier Jeep summer tours. Glacier Jeeps has years of experience conducting jeep, snowmobile and hiking tours on the glacier since 1994. (Bjarney has been helping run the family business since she was 14 years old.) I parked my car and joined them in their sturdy 4WD which wound its way slowly ever upwards, following the undulating gravel road, which twisted and turned around hairpin bends, past waterfalls and deep canyons. My guides fill me in on the details of the landscape, pointing out how the glacier has crawled across the terrain, devastating everything in its path along with other interesting facts. Thirty minutes and 830 metres above sea level later, we arrive at Jöklasel, Iceland’s highest restaurant and owned by Glacier Jeeps. Jöklasel will serve as our base camp where we suit up with boots, warm overalls and helmets for the snowmobile excursion. Now it’s time to test drive the snowmobiles. I am a little hesitant at first and Kristján shows me the ropes. It looks easy enough but I decide that I prefer to let him drive over the glacier with me sitting safely behind him on this ‘skidoo for two’, at least until I get a better feel for it. ‘Off we go over the wild white yonder, climbing high into the sun’ to paraphrase an old song, with cloudless blue skies above us and the wind in our faces. Further along we
www.icelandictimes.com
stop and dismount, to take in the magnificent panoramic views over the glacier, the Atlantic Ocean and the town of Höfn far below in the distance. I felt like I was on top of the world and it was truly a cause for celebration! Kristján jokes that we cannot go onwards unless I drive. By now I am feeling a little more sure of myself and agree to give it a try. This time we are off to inspect a massive sheer rock face that rises straight up from the glacier at an elevation of 1200 metres. Finally, our one hour snowmobile adventure comes to an end and it is time to return to Jöklasel for a well deserved bite to eat and a hot drink. The view out the restaurant windows is as one would expect: magnificent. Glacier Jeeps also offers a hiking tour of the glacier that comes with all the equipment such as safety helmets, climbing irons and ice axe, instruction and a guide, included in the price. In case you just don’t think a strenuous hike or a thrilling snowmobile adventure is for you, then Glacier Jeeps offers an alternative to see the glacier in a comfortable, specially equipped 4WD and is available year round, weather permitting. Each tour is only 3 to 4 hours in total, giving you plenty of time to do other things with your day, even though once you are up there you may not want to come down. Although it’s best to book one day in advance, you can also just show up at the crossroads (F985) at either 9.30 am or 2.00 pm and join the tour from there. Vatnajökull Glacier Jeep tours: a must for your bucket list!
–
EMV
Glacier Jeeps Silfurbraut 15 • 780 Hornafjörður
+354 478 1000 glacierjeeps@simnet.is www.glacierjeeps.is
73
Let Books Brag For You New Landscape Photography - I Was Here
B
ragging about your perfect holiday can become a bit tiresome after a while, as you keep repeating the same stories, but never fully capture your experiences. The solution is a professional photography book with the best of what Iceland has to offer that does all the bragging for you – and, of course, keeps your memories alive. The book in question is aptly named “I Was Here” and will be released in the summer of 2013. Author, Kristján Ingi Einarsson, is one of Iceland’s most experienced photographers and respected in his field and has two other landscape books to his name: The Essence of Iceland in 2009 and Iceland so Quiet in 2010, as well as countless other projects and exhibitions. Kristján is particularly enamoured with the tranquillity and stillness in the nature of Iceland and is always looking out to find something new. “The unspoiled and peaceful landscapes in collaboration with the ever changing weather and light seem to create endless photographic opportunities of both the grand and the tiniest details. You can take thus take pictures on the same spot over and over again, but they will never turn out exactly the same. That’s why I often compare photography in Iceland to fishing,
www.icelandictimes.com
because you never know what you’re going to come home with,” says Kristján. He thus prefers to let the pictures come to him and, as an avid traveller in his home country, there never seems to be a lack of inspiration. His new book comes in a new and exciting panoramic format, which Kristján says gives certain pictures added value and presents them in a new light, in addition to the book being very compact and handy.
122
To u r i s m , C u lt u r e
and
Business
I s s u e 21 • 2014
Sail a Fantasy World
The Ice Lagoon Team reveal the secrets of Jökulsarlon
I
t’s one of the unique features of Iceland —one of those ‘must see’ spots. Located under the massive Vatnajökull glacier, the lagoon is one of the world’s natural wonders. Huge icebergs break off from the tongue flowing down from the glacier itself, plunging into the waters of the lagoon. The sunlight shining on and through the ice produces beautiful effects, while the multifaceted blocks of ice form shapes that are just other-worldly.
It’s also a photographer’s dream, presenting many different photo opportunities to get unique shots. Since the volcanic eruptions of 2010 and before, some of the icebergs are stained with streaks of ash. Many are so huge that they dwarf the little Zodiac boat as it wends its way between them. It’s not just peaceful on the lagoon, the silence is almost eerie, adding to the sense of awe. It’s not without life, however, as seals can frequently be seen basking on a chunk of ice or chasing after fish—or, quite often, just A recent natural wonder curiously observing those strange humans in It hasn’t always been like this. The lagoon their red jackets. started to form in 1934, and has grown steadily larger since then as the Vatnajökull Tours that win Excellence Awards glacier began retreating and ice started Ice Lagoon–Zodiac Boat Tours has 7 moving slowly down towards the sea, scheduled tours daily. Each lasts an hour and breaking off in huge chunks in the lagoon. the Ice Lagoon team takes you all the way It is now the deepest lake in Iceland at up to the glacier edge, about 7 km away. The around 260 metres. company focuses on personal service with a
maximum of 10 passengers in each Zodiac boat and with professional guides who will point out the jewels and the secrets of the lagoon. This has earned them TripAdvisor’s 2013 Certificate of Excellence. It is worth reading TripAdvisor’s reviews to see why. They have three kinds of tours: the Adventure Tour, the Evening Tour and private tours where you have the whole boat and the guide for yourself. Before st a r t ing a tou r, one of t he experienced guides will tell you about what you can expect to see and will make sure you have your floatation suits and lifejackets. The Evening Tour is remarkable as the sun is lower in the west, casting beautiful colours over the entire area. With fewer visitors at that time, the silence is all the more profound. Jökulsarlón is easy to reach from Reykjavik, as it lies on the Ring road in the south, some 78 km before the fishing town of Höfn. –
ASF
IceLagoon-ZodiacBoatTours Sunnuhlíð • 781 Hornafjörður
+354 860 9996 info@icelagoon.com www.icelagoon.com
74
www.icelandictimes.com
A Bit of History
At the Eastern Crossroads Egilsstaðir Guest House
E
gilsstaðir Guest House, on the shores of Lake Logurinn in the town of Egilsstaðir is a remarkable old world hotel that has been accommodating guests since 1884. Eighteen renovated double rooms, all with en suite bathroom, plus a fine dining restaurant, complete with white linen tablecloths and views overlooking the garden and lake, make this a cosy and romantic choice for an overnight stay or longer.
The guest house shares sprawling estate grounds with Egilsstaðir Farm, which has been operating continuously for centuries. The town of Egilstaðir grew up around the farm and eventually became the site of the major crossroads of East Iceland. Today, the farm continues its operations with 70 cows that provide the hotel with all its dairy products, such as milk, skyr, yogurt and cheese, as well as some of the highest quality beef products in Iceland. T he k itchen is overseen by Hu ld a Da n iel sdót t i r who i s f a st g a i n i n g a reput at ion for her cre at ive c o ok i n g skills and blending of traditional and progressive cuisine, sourcing most of the ingredients either locally or from around East Iceland. The restaurant prides itself on its beef tenderloin from Egilsstaðir Farm as well as its delectable handmade ice crea m and sorbets, both of which come highly recommended. –
EMV
Egilsstaðir Guesthouse 700 Egilsstaðir
+354 471 1114
egilsstadir@egilsstadir.is www.egilsstadir.com
The Seahouse Restaurant / Randulffs-seahouse
all days in
June – September 2014
n Also ope s p by for grou nt. me arrange
Strandgata 96 / 735 Eskifjörður / +354 477 1247 / mjoeyri@mjoeyri.is
www.icelandictimes.com
75
To u r i s m , C u lt u r e
and
Business
I s s u e 21 • 2014
No Ash – Just Beautiful Camping Hike in the freedom of the mountains in comfort
C
amping in Iceland? Are you joking? Isn’t it freezing? W hat about the volcanoes and all that ash? Þakgil Camp Site is a popular spot for Icelanders who love beauty and enjoy the hiking in the area. Do you really think they would go there in such numbers if it were covered in ash? Set at the base of a spectacular canyon with a beautiful river running through it, there is no ash here. A climb to the top of one of the surrounding mountains offers
a view of range after range waiting to be conquered, green expanses contrasting with craggy rocks and sparkling waterfalls. There is plent y of room to breathe I f y o u e nj o y t h e f r e e d o m o f t h e here. You can bring a tent, a camper or mountains, this camp site is the perfect caravan or, if you prefer, stay in one of the place to base from. – ASF summerhouses. All the normal facilities are available. It‘s nice to know that, after Þakgil Campground a day’s hike, you can take a refreshing Höfðabrekkuafrétti • 870 Vík +354 893 4889 shower before grilling your dinner as the helga@thakgil.is www.thakgil.is sun slips behind the mountains.
Refreshing Vík
Halldór’s Café satisfies locals and travellers alike
G
uests at Halldór’s Café are greeted by the scent of steaming soup and freshly baked bread as they walk through the door. Across from Vík’s shoreline with its black sand beaches, Halldór’s Café serves dishes like soup of the day or salads with tuna, chicken or just feta, along with bigger meals of fish, lamb or chicken. Deserts include home-baked cakes and ice cream from a local
76
farm. Originally, Halldór’s Café was a general store, built in 1831 to meet all of the needs of Vík. Today, it continues to satisfy patrons with its menu which has something for every taste, with a local produce, where possible. Halldór’s Café supports artists with a rotating display of local talent featured on its walls, and serves up steaming cups of coffee and cake, ideal for meeting and greeting
www.icelandictimes.com
old friends or new acquaintances. Halldór’s Café is open all year round. Its hours are 11:00 to 22:00 or 23:00, but Fridays and Saturdays can turn into late nights, with the cafe remaining open until 1:00 am with its fully stocked bar providing a late night place to grab a drink. –
Halldórskaffi Víkurbraut 28 • 870 Vík
+354 847 8844
halldorskaffi@gmail.com www.halldorskaffi.is
KB
Personal Iceland
Arrive as a customer, leave as a friend with Iceland Guided Tours
W
hen I was young, I travelled the world on a shoestring. I read everything I could and amassed volumes of travel books and guides. Looking back, I wonder what I missed because suddenly, all my cherished beliefs about independent travel came crashing down after a tour to the south coast with Iceland Guided Tours.
agree. Leaving the driving to others, I could just relax and enjoy the constantly changing weather and landscape. Our driver/guide was bursting with interesting knowledge, not only about what we were seeing, but a whole lot of insider information not found in guidebooks.
Guides with wit and knowledge
Iceland Guided Tours is run by a husband and Are you wearing glasses? wife team, Óðinn and Addý, who are long time I had read that seeing Iceland without a guide tour guides themselves and all their guides are was like leaving your glasses at home—and handpicked for their knowledge and ability to now, I have to say that I wholeheartedly deliver with wit and insight in English.
Tölt on the Volcano Icelandic Horse fun in Hveragerði
D
id your trip to Iceland include Icelandic horses? Hardly anyone can escape the magic of this special breed of horses. You don’t have to go far to explore the Icelandic volcanic landscape with its natural hot springs and boiling mud pools on the back of an Icelandic horse. Solhestar, the riding tour operator in Hveragerði, offers all year round individual service to give you an unforgettable holiday experience. Take advantage of the pick-up service at your hotel and enjoy your horse riding tour.
Riding - Your choice
Sólmundur is bursting with ideas. You don’t fancy riding with a group? He will create a personal riding tour for you. Did you ever ride a horse around midnight? During summer Sólhestar offers a ride in the midnight sun. There is hardly a more stirring experience than gliding smoothly on an inspired horse through the golden dusk ’s light in the timeless nature, smelling the dew, enjoying genuine Icelandic snacks and greeting the
www.icelandictimes.com
The little extras that make the difference
Small groups and personal service are the hallmarks of IGTours, using comfortable mini-buses. IGTours provides day tours and activities to various locations in Iceland. They can organise private tours for families and individuals by private car, Super Jeep, or minibus to any destination in Iceland. Now I only have one question...do I toss out the guide books? –
EMV
Iceland Guided Tours Borgarhraun 18 • 810 Hveragerði
+354 556 5566 info@igtours.is www.igtours.is
dawn. Or enjoy a day tour with the fresh sea air in your face while riding along the beach from the fishing town of Þorlákshöfn back to the farm. Sólhestar is a small family business, specialising in customised short riding tours. They can also organise riding tours for groups and longer tours. The dream of tölting on the volcano is just a click away. –
DT
Sólhestar Borgargerði • 801 Ölfus
+354 892 3066 solhestar@solhestar.is www.solhestar.is
77
To u r i s m , C u lt u r e
and
Business
I s s u e 21 • 2014
The Old Cowhouse Restaurant Sitting Pretty on Iceland’s South Coast
L
ocation wise, The Old Cowhouse Restaurant couldn’t be in a more perfect position for feasting your eyes upwards to the misty, craggy, moss-covered peaks of Eyjafjallajökull. It’s a welcome addition to Iceland’s ever-growing list of new amenities that have been popping up all over the country. The remodelled former barn easily seats 50 to 60 dinner guests while retaining its unpretentious character and sweet bovine
simplicit y, ma k ing this a thoroughly enjoyable place to stop for lunch or dinner while travelling the south coast. The menu boasts grass-fed beef, as is the norm in Iceland, coming straight from restaurant’s own cattle herds. A hearty and warming meat soup, called Volcano Soup, served with homemade bread, is a favourite. Open year-round, the Old Cowhouse plans monthly events including an October evening of traditional food, a November
evening of game (reindeer and geese), a December buffet of traditional Christmas dishes, as well as musical evenings of Icelandic folk music at various times throughout the year. For opening hours in winter, please contact The Old Cowhouse Restaurant directly. Large and small groups welcome. –
EMV
Gamla Fjósið Hvassafell • 860 Hvolsvelli
+354 487 7788
oldcowhouse@gmail.com facebook.com/oldcowhouse
Ásólfsskáli Farm Holidays Living under Eyjafjallajökull Volcano
I
t’s one of t hose places t hat is ea sy to miss if you are rushing along the ring road on Icela nd ’s majestic south coast. Sharing the peaceful location just below Eyjafjallajökull with a handful of
other farms, Ásólfsskáli Farm seems to magically come into focus in a way that you might not expect. It won the 2011 award for being the most beautiful farm in Rangárthing-eystra county and the honour is wholly fitting for this neat and tidy dairy farm that opened its doors to travellers in 1991. There are two self-contained cottages that can sleep up to 6 people each and that come complete with a jacuzzi and gas barbecue, making it an ideal retreat in a picture post-card perfect setting. Visitors a re welc ome to watch t he milking of Ásólfsskáli’s 50 cows, hike the foothills along marked trails or visit the picturesque 19 th century Ásólfsskáli church that presides over the landscape. –
Ásólfsskáli Ásólfsskála • 861 Hvolsvelli
+354 487 8989 asolfsskali@simnet.is www.asolfsskali.is
78
www.icelandictimes.com
EMV
Eat At The Source
Dine on Delicious Langoustines at Eyrarbakki’s Rauða húsið
A
visit to Iceland is not complete without a visit to the birthplace of the Icelandic lobster industry. Here, you can indulge in a feast of the finest Icelandic seafood at the Rauða húsið (Red House) restaurant, found in the picturesque seaside village of Eyrarbakki. In this beautiful red house, a short drive from Reykjavik, langoustines are served in a charming atmosphere amidst a rich and well-preserved history. Now a tranquil village, Eyrarbakki was once an important trading centre in Iceland. Many of its houses were built in the early 1900’s and the village maintains that turnof-the-century charm and atmosphere.
Iceland was late to discover this seafood delicacy. Lobster fishing was born off the shores of Eyrarbakki in 1954. In fact, it was not till then that the Langoustine was discovered to be not only edible, but delicious, too! Care is taken to maintain the sense of history within the restaurant. The red house boasts beautiful original wooden floorboards dating back to 1919. A rrive by noon, a he a r t y bowl of langoustine soup will set you up for the day. Serving a variety of delicious fish and meat dishes, the restaurant’s cuisine is a mix of international and Icelandic foods, all featuring local ingredients. Choose an
evening of indulgence and you can savour the Catch of the Day, consisting of two different seafood dishes. The lamb dishes are absolutely delightful. Pair a bottle of fine wine with any of the menu’s offerings and cap it off with one of the Rauða húsið’s signature desserts. Enjoy a walk around the village either before or after a meal at the Rauða húsið. The walk could continue along the beautiful black beaches only few minutes away from the village. A relaxing stroll by the water makes the visit complete. – ASF
Rauða Húsið Skólabraut 1, Reykholt • 801 Selfoss
+354 486 8701 info@fagrilundur.is www.fagrilundur.is
Raised on Chocolate
Café Mika’s chocolates have a past, present and future
M
ika was born and raised on chocolate. It flows in his blood and comes out in the most delicious delicacies—pralines so full of rich flavour that they never seem to last. They’re swiftly devoured by all who come in contact with them and it takes the strongest soul to actually make it home with them intact. Café Mika is becoming a popular place to stop when taking the Golden Circle tour as it’s found in Reykholt, not far from Geysir,
making it a nice break on your trip. But it’s not just the pralines that are attracting visitors, as Mika has a menu that has your taste buds watering just reading it over. For those interested in a snack, the rich hot chocolate drink, made fresh from beans sourced from all over the world, topped with whipped cream is stiff competition for traditional coffee. For me, enjoying a meal at Mika’s is always worth the time. He takes traditional meals
www.icelandictimes.com
and adds that extra touch that makes them memorable. This summer, he is introducing a wood-burning pizza oven, a Big Green Egg grill for pizza, grills and smoking meats and fish and an ice cream maker to make his own specialities. See reactions on TripAdvisor and you’ll make it a point to stop by. –
ASF
Café Mika Skólabraut 4 • 801 Reykholt
+354 896 6450 mikaehf@simnet.is on Facebook
79
Come and join us for a day to remember +354 661 1810 info@ribsafari.is
Aviation services in the Arctic Scheduled flight service to Constable Point / Nerlerit Inaat Charter flights Medevac service with medical staff Survey flights Complete logistical services
www.norlandair.is Tel: +354 414 6960, email: norlandair@norlandair.is
Folk Museum in Eyrarbakki The Southcoast Museum Árnessýsla folk museum is the historical home that the Danish merchants built in 1765, called Húsið, the House. Húsið is one of the oldest houses in Iceland and a beautiful monument of Eyrarbakki’s time as the biggest trading centre on the south coast. Today, one can enjoy exhibitions about the story and culture of the region. A famous piano, a shawl made out of human hair and the king’s pot, are among items on view. Húsið prides itself on its warm and homelike atmosphere. Address: “The House” 820 Eyrarbakki Tel: +354 483 1504 & +354 483 1082 e-mail: husid@husid.com • www.husid.com
Opening hours: Summer: May 15th - September 15th daily 11.00-18.00 or by agreement Winter: By agreement
A Taste of Iceland’s Wild & Sweet Laugarvatn’s Lindin Restaurant & Café Bistro
L
indin Restaurant & Bistro Café, located on the banks of Lake Laugarvatn, has a firm foundation of culinary excellence that attracts patrons from around the world. Owner, Baldur Öxdal Halldórsson, pastry and master chef, trained at the Hotel and Restaurant School of Iceland. But it was between 1980–1984, as he received training as a pastry chef at the Culinary Institute of America, New York and worked with two pastry chefs at the Palio restaurant in Manhatten that he got his inspiration to specialise in chocolate and desserts that, in 1986–1987, led him to the prestigious Richemont Professional School in Lucerne from 1988–1989, where he developed his interest in the art of chocolate and learnt the secrets behind a great dessert.
After his training abroad was completed, Baldur began something of a culinary revolution in Reykjavik, working at many of the top hotels and restaurants, creating spectacular and sophisticated desserts that were hitherto unknown in the capital.
Mecca of Icelandic Wild Game
Baldur took over Lindin Restaurant in 2002 which has become known as the ‘Mecca of Icelandic wild game’, with its lamb, fish, seafood and game caught in the wild. His menu is seasonal and features exotic dishes that can be made from reindeer, goose, duck, cormorant, guillemot, puffin, minke whale or pan-fried arctic char. Always on the cutting edge, you can be sure of finding new and exciting additions to his dessert menus such as his delectable chocolate mousse with raspberry sauce, with watermelon pieces and white chocolate foam and his skyr mousse with crow berries and rhubarb.
Passion for purity and freshness
Passionate about food, Baldur insists on the absolute purity and freshness of all his ingredients. Located in the heart of Iceland’s ‘greenhouse belt’, he can take his pick of the choicest fruits and vegetables grown in the
www.icelandictimes.com
area year round. The restaurant even has its own small kitchen garden, providing a fresh supply of rhubarb, chervil, red and blackcurrants. The lamb and venison come from N.E. Iceland and are known for their delicious flavour, fed on mountain herbs. The Arctic char are caught fresh from either Lake Þingvellir or Lake Apavatn daily.
In the heart of the Golden Circle
Lindin is located in the village of Laugarvatn, right beside the lovely natural sauna, steam baths and pool at the Fontana Spa. The 45 minute scenic drive from Reykjavik takes you through enchanting landscapes. Laugarvatn is half-way between Þingvellir and Geysir and Gullfoss, making it an excellent choice for a day trip to in one of the most scenic areas of Iceland. You can also now stay at any time of year in Laugarvatn at either the Golden Circle Apartments next to Lindin, the Gallerí Guesthouse or the village hostel to enjoy the Northern Lights in winter and the midnight sun in summer and the spectacular views from Lindin’s terrace and garden across the lake to the Hekla and Eyjafjallajökull volcanoes. –
EMV/ASF
Lindin Restaurant Lindarbraut 2 • 840 Laugarvatni
+354 486 1262 lindin@laugarvatn.is www.laugarvatn.is
81
GLACIERS, BLACK SAND
BEACHES &
PUFFINS MýrdalurregionSouthIceland
V
olcanoes, glaciers and black sand beaches characterise Iceland’s south coast in the area near the small village of Vík in Mýrdalur. Vík is about two hours’ drive from Reykjavik (184km) along Iceland’s Ring road and nestles on the foothills of the infamous sub-glacial Katla caldera which last erupted in 1918. The area is truly beautiful and boasts some of Iceland’s most amazing black sand beaches, sea stacks and an island with an archway which is populated by puffins during the nesting season in summer.
Activities and sightseeing for all seasons
Blessed with relatively mild weather all year round, the south of Iceland is ideal for sightseeing and all sorts of outdoor activities both in summer and winter. The area is usually first to turn green in spring and stays green the longest in the autumn due to its southerly location, proximity to the Atlantic Ocean and prevailing wind direction. The area hardly ever cut off by snow even in the middle of winter. Summer activities include hiking, golfing and bird watching. Glacier ice-walks, iceclimbing, snowmobiling, super jeep safaris in modif ied 4x4s, and AT V-tours are available all year and the northern lights in winter are amazing.
Vík – the village with the short name
Vík village has a population of 300. Vík, the name, actually means bay in English and is named after the small bay where it stands. It is the only village along the coast of Iceland which doesn’t have a harbour of some sort, the reason being, of course, that it would be impractical to attempt to build a harbour along the black sand beach which is shifted every day by the powerful waves of the Atlantic Ocean. Reynisdrangar sea stacks are the major landmark of Vík. They can be viewed, filmed and photographed from various vantage points along the beach, from the village and from the steep sea cliff above. Commercials, television series and motion
pictures are regularly filmed in the area due to its unique scenic beauty and accessibility. Kötlusetur Tourist Information, Research and Cultural Centre in Vík has friendly staff who are happy to assist independent travellers find accommodation, activities and sightseeing spots in the area. A permanent exhibition displays the challenges for the local people living in such close proximity to a harbourless beach and the Katla volcano. Kötlusetur also offers a one hour walking tour around the village in summer called ‘Meeting the Locals’. Participants are shown how to catch puffins and fulmars. The tour ends with a visit to a gallery, where guests get to know a local glass-artist and her work. Other activities in and near Vík include golfing, bird watching, hiking, ice-walking, snowmobiling and swimming in the local geothermal pool. Accommodation of fers in Vík a nd su rrou nd ing s include; yout h hostel, guesthouses, farm hotels and a four star hotel.
Fire, ice and black sand beaches
The area near Vík is blessed with some of the most amazing scenery in the world such as Víkurfjara black volcanic beach, Sólheimajökull valley glacier, Mýrdalsjökull ice cap, and Dyrhólaey Island with its impressive arch and puffin colony in summer. Walk along Víkurfjara beach at sunset, walk with a guide on Sólheimajökull valley glacier, view puffins and a natural arch on Dyrhólaey island. Attractions in the Vík area are generally accessible all year and open for business. The combination and interplay between brown and black volcanic mountains, black basalt sand beaches, white glaciers and green grass in summer make this part of Iceland one of the most outstanding places to visit. –
Visitvík Víkurbraut 28 • 780 Vík
+354 487 1395 info@vik.is www.visitvik.is
SHV
To u r i s m , C u lt u r e
and
Business
I s s u e 19 • 2013
Connected by Energy and History
A New Path Between The Blue Lagoon and Grindavík village officially opened
T
he fishing town of Grindavík and the world famous Blue Lagoon have been linked together by geography, geology and history from the beginning, but it wasn’t until earlier this year that they were connected by an actual path. Last May, the five kilometrelong two-part path was officially named, giving visitors and locals a chance to travel between the two locations, while enjoying the fantastic surrounding scenery.
The Contest
The township of Grindavík put up a contest to find the best names for the paths and the winning suggestions are well fitting. The path from the Blue Lagoon right up to the Selskógur forest is aptly named Energy Lane, due to the harnessing of the rich geothermal energy in the area on which the Blue Lagoon is based. From Selskógur to Grindavík village, the path was given the name Ingibjörg Lane. Ingibjörg was a local woman and a community leader who, at the age of sixty, decided to utilize a fund dedicated to her to plant a forest at the foothills of Þorbjörn Mountain. In 1957 she planted the first tree
32
in an area she called Selskógur. The area has since become a cherished nature resort for the local people and leads up to several hiking paths on Þorbjörn Mountain.
What makes Grindavík interesting
Grindavík is one of the true Icelandic fishing towns, where the harbour area is the life of the town and worth a visit in its own right. Around the harbour area you’ll find cafés, museums and a chance to see the everyday work of Icelandic fishermen as they bring in the day’s catch. For the gourmands, there is no lack of exciting culinary experiences to be found and, as is to be expected, the fish doesn’t get any fresher than in the quality restaurants of Grindavík.
In addition, there are plenty of exhilarating activities available in Grindavík, such as Quadbike tours, cave exploring and horseback riding tours in the nearby lava fields. Then, there is the informative House of Culture and Natural Resources named Kvikan where you can learn all about how the Blue Lagoon came into being and the area’s rich cultural history. With Ingibjörg Lane and Energy Lane, the Blue Lagoon has now become a part of a much bigger journey that takes you closer to the heart of the area’s immense energy, history and culture. –
Grindavíkurbær Víkurbraut 62 • 240 Grindavík
+354 420 1100
grindavik@grindavik.is www.visitgrindavik.is
www.icelandictimes.com
VAG
My suggestion: don’t leave without having a bowl of their soup. It’s really good. While I was there, one of the owners was spending time with visiting tourists, explaining the area and showing them on a map the best places to visit. It’s in the evenings and on weekends that things really take off. It’s a small place but packed with character. A piano in the corner The reputation of Bryggjan netmakers’ café is spreading fast is often pressed into use, making it a fun and alk down by Grindavík’s harbour This is a fishing town and the café is a inspiring evening. Whether you are a local and you may see the nets. Then you fisherman’s café - though, with the growing or just visiting, you’ll feel at home. – ASF know you’re there. Bryggjan’s main work number of visitors from all over the world is repairing fishing nets and lines - nets finding it, it is quickly becoming the café Café Bryggjan that would completely cover the nearby of choice in the area. Little wonder, as the Miðgarði 2 • 240 Grindavík +354 426 7100 mountain and lines that would stretch help and friendliness of the owners is only kaffibryggjan@simnet.is www.kaffibryggjan.is beyond Reykjavik, over 50 km away. matched by the delicious food they offer.
Images © Gabriel Rutenberg
Grindavík’s Harbour Café W
Cod at its Freshest in Grindavík
Salthúsið Restaurant takes this famous fish to a new level of taste
C
all it bacalao, salted cod, morue or saltfisk in Icelandic, the cod fish was so important to Iceland’s economy that it featured prominently on the Icelandic Coat of Arms. The Salthúsið (Salt House) Restaurant of Grindavík is the f irst restaurant in Iceland specialising in the lowly codfish, bringing it up to new heights. Once the staple of the poor, baccalao h a s b e en a c e lebr ate d i n g re d ient i n
Mediterranean, African, and Caribbean cuisine for many centuries. Benefiting from its proximity to the sea, Salthusið’s á la carte menu features beautifully presented seafood that couldn’t be more fresh: whether it’s cod, haddock or catfish or even lobster—it all depends on the ‘catch of the day’. Not a fish lover? The menu also features items such as marinated fillet of lamb, beef tenderloin and BBQ ribs amongst others.
www.icelandictimes.com
Linger over a glass of wine from Salthusið’s extensive wine list while listening to the soft ambient music in front of the wood-burning stove in the dining room that serves to warm and brighten those rainy days that are sometimes a part of life in Grindavík. Aside from the á la carte evening menu, there is more casual fare for the lunch crowd, a café with free Internet access and a bar which is popular with the locals on weekends. Salthusið Restaurant, just 5 minutes drive from the internationally acclaimed Blue Lagoon, is housed in a warm and inviting log house, made of solid Estonian pine. The restaurant, spanning 2 f loors, is an elegant venue for banquets, parties, c on f e r e nc e s a nd r e c e pt i on d i n ne r s accommodating a total of 200 guests. The large premises can host conferences, work shops a nd meetings in 3 dining rooms, each with its own separate sound system, wireless Internet and an overhead projection system. – EMV
Salthúsið caktus Stamphólsvegur 2 • 240 Grindavík
+354 426 9700 salthusid@salthusid.is www.salthusid.is
33
To u r i s m , C u lt u r e
and
Business
I s s u e 21 • 2014
Touching Greenland
graves are built above ground and covered with stones. No names are engraved on the crosses—in Inuit culture the name of a Daytrips to Kulusuk with Air Iceland deceased loved one is passed on to a newborn here are hardly any icebergs in Iceland, craftsmen, carving traditional items from to ensure continuity. Kulusuk’s church stands but one doesn’t have to travel far to walrus tusk and bone. as a testimony to the dangers of the sea; built find them. Air Iceland offers a popular, by the crew of a Danish sailing vessel, using often sold out, day tour to Kulusuk on The hunter’s village the salvaged remnants of their ship that ran the southeast coast of Greenland. Starting The village of Kulusuk, situated on the aground in 1908. in the summer of 2014, customers will island of the same name, dates back to 1909 be able to choose between the traditional when Inuit hunters and fishermen decided to Farewell Greenland tour, Kulusuk Classic, and the new tour, settle down and build their colourful houses. The aircraft awaits its passengers. Time Kulusuk Icebergs and Glaciers. The two- Kulusuk’s oldest inhabitants were born into permitting, you might feel like one last hour flight opens up a whole new world, nomadic Inuit culture. Hunting and fishing walk up to Stórasteinn, the scenic outpost, with qualif ied travel-guides aiming to continue to be essential sources of income where in former times hunters scouted for sharpen your senses to the beaut y of for the community. Kulusuk’s highest peak, their prey. If you haven’t yet spotted your Iceland’s truly icy neighbour. Qalorujoorneq (676 m) dominates the favourite iceberg, now is your chance to take island’s impressive mountainous panorama. a visual memory of Greenland’s clear purity Kulusuk Icebergs and Glaciers Tour In the 1950s, an airport was built here for home with you. Check out Air Iceland’s A two hour boat ride takes you to an military purposes, and is still in use today, homepage for departures. If you have been abandoned settlement and past an imposing providing for safe arrivals and departures. touched with Greenland’s striking beauty glacier that reaches to the sea. You will and would like to stay longer in Kulusuk, encounter an abundance of icebergs that A church with history accommodation can be arranged. f loat on the glittering strait bet ween Suitable walking shoes are advisable for Kulusuk and the neighbouring island of the 40 minute walk from the village to the Aputsijak. On your return to Kulusuk, airport. Passing the old cemetery, visitors are you will have ample time to stroll through regaled with stunning views of the island, the village to admire the well preserved with the endless Arctic Sea to the left and houses, or discover the unique handicrafts the harsh mountain ridge of the southeastern of local artisans. Greenlanders are amazing mainland to the right. Due to permafrost,
T
–
Air Iceland Reykjavik airport • 101 Reykjavik
+354 570 3030 websales@airiceland.is www.airiceland.is
84
www.icelandictimes.com
DT
To u r i s m , C u lt u r e
and
Business
I s s u e 19 • 2013
A Setting for Every Mood Gamla Kaupfélagið Extends its Selection
O
n a tranquil peninsula in Akranes you’ll be pleasantly surprised to find Gamla Kaupfélagið, a high quality restaurant, wellknown for its menu’s wide range and popular with the locals and visitors alike.
Indian in Akranes
Gamla Kaupfélagið has recently added a tandoori oven to its repertoire, offering a variety of exciting Indian dishes. Gísli Sigurjón Þráinsson, restaurant manager, says that the Indian addition is another reflection of Gamla Kaupfélagið’s ambition to satisfy every customer. “We’re always looking for something new and exciting to keep things interesting and our customers seem to appreciate that,” says Gísli.
Catering to all customers
Gamla Kaupfélagið can cater to almost all of their customers’ tastes, whether it be roadweary travellers looking for a quick snack, gourmands looking for something fresh and inspiring, romantic couples looking for a cozy night out or larger families looking for a complete package. “The pizzas and pastas are always popular, as well as our plentiful salads, for those who know they want those. But for those looking for a more unique culinary experience, our lobster dishes never fail to satisfy,” says Gísli.
Ga mla K aupfélagið is located in a spacious house that was formerly a general store, providing each customer with an experience to suit their personal taste. After 10 o’clock on the weekends, the restaurant changes to a bar, where the friendly locals tend to gather after the working week. –
VAG
Gamla Kaupfélagið Kirkjubraut 11 • 300 Akranesi
+354 431 4343
gamlakaupfelagid@skaginn.is www.gamlakaupfelagid.is
Hot from the Oven
Geiri’s Bakery and Coffee Shop in Borgarnes
T
ravellers coming from Reykjavik spot the bakery from the Borgarnes bridge. There’s plenty of parking right out side t he shop. G ei r i ’s c u stomer s immediately feel welcome the moment they step into the bakery, where delicious pastries and breads are made on the spot.
48
Geiri is an affable man who takes pride in what he knows best, which is baking breads and pastries of all sorts. His personal favourites are the ‘love balls’, which are oil fried balls of pastry a little larger than a golf ball, and a cinnamon bun commonly called snúður in Icelandic. His special version
www.icelandictimes.com
on this popular theme comes with a thick chocolate crust and a large glass of fresh milk. They can all be enjoyed sitting at the comfortable seats and sturdy wooden tables of the coffee shop. The view is so extraordinary that visitors should be charged an entrance fee! Right outside the window, there is a tidal plain filled with birds at low tide and the second longest bridge in Iceland. Beyond the bridge one sees the impressive local mountains, snow-capped in winter. In the distance lie the Eiríksjökull and Langjökull glaciers.
Geiri’s bakery is the perfect spot to stop for refreshments on your travels on the Ring Road. –
Geirabakarí Digranesgötu 6 310 Borgarnes
+354 437 2020
geirabak@internet.is www.facebook.com/geirabakari.ehf
SV
WorldsofMagic &Mythology
TakeatripintootherworldsattheEdduveröldExhibitioninBorgarnes
N
orse mythology is one of the most Kristjánsdóttir from Borgarnes. “I love the fantastic legacies of the ancient Nordic Norse mythology,” says Erla, “The more heritage of which Iceland is an integral part. I read about it, the more I enjoy it. It is Edduveröld – Edda’s World – offers local and foreign visitors alike an accessible glimpse into this hitherto largely hidden heritage with a model and a professionally made audio guide available in a number of languages. Edduveröld in Borganes, and later at Reykholt which is about 30 minutes from Borgarnes.
Norse Mythology in Borgarnes
Several large size wall hangings with images from the Norse mythology make up this unique exhibition. The centre piece is a 25m2 model of the ancient world designed by artist and visionary Haukur Halldórsson, whose ambition is to build a life-size amusement park like the one seen in the model. Visitors can enjoy a 20 minute audio guide commentary in English, German, Norwegian or Icelandic for adults and in Icelandic for children. Edduveröld Exhibition is owned and operated by Erla Jónsdóttir and Guðrún
Homely restaurant and Coffee House
Edduveröld restaurant offers home-style lunch at an affordable price and an á-la-carte menu in the evening. “We make everything from scratch, so we know exactly what goes into our food and pastries,” says Erla. Mythology plays a big role in the naming of the dishes on the á-la-carte menu. There’s a lamb dish named Óðin and the fish catchof-the-day is called Miðgarðsfiskur. More information about the restaurant and its special lunch and dinner offers of the day is available on their website and Facebook. possible to view the stories in so many ways The restaurant is open from 10 in the and I guess everyone will picture it in his or morning until 11 at night every night her own way.” except Fridays and Saturdays when it stays The source of the Norse heathen mythology open until 1 am. – SV was recorded by Christian chieftain and scholar, Snorri Sturluson in the manuscript Edduveröld Snorra Edda in the 13th century. Sturluson Skúlagötu 17 • 310 Borgarnes +354 437 1455 happened to live at the Borg farm in edduverold@gmail.com www.edduverold.is Borgarfjörður, only 10 minute drive from the
www.icelandictimes.com
49
To u r i s m , C u lt u r e
and
Business
I s s u e 19 • 2013
Prepare for Lunar Landing
Europe’slargestareaofunspoilednatureisMývatnTours’playground
T
ravelling in the uninhabited interior of Iceland is unforgettable. In the safe hands of Myvatn Tours, with 30 years experience guiding visitors in this particular area of this terrain, it is nonetheless an adventurous day, driving across the largest open area of unspoiled nature in Europe with breathtaking landscapes, an environment of magnificently simple splendour, dominated by sandy deserts, stark or moss-covered lava plains, everpresent mountains and volcanoes, incredible colours, roaring waterfalls, unbridged rivers,
colourful sulphurous fields, delicate but rich flora, young lava fields, and ice-cold glaciers. It was on this terrain that the US astronauts practiced for their lunar landing. Located north of Vatnajokull, about 100 km south of Mývatn, there is little rainfall. Described as a ‘complex of nesting calderas’ in the rain shadow of Vatnajokull glacier, the area is known as Ódáðahraun, or the ‘desert of crimes’—an intriguing name for the largest lava field in Iceland. Created by an immense volcanic eruption thousands of years ago, followed by others,
including one in 1875 and a smaller one in 1961, the main caldera measures 55 km across, giving you some idea of the volume of material which has been ejected. In the aftermath of the explosions, a series of craters were formed, and one such crater is the opaque, milky blue Lake Öskjuvatn, the deepest freshwater lake in Iceland. It was this eruption in 1875 that caused much hardship around Iceland and resulted in the largest emigration of the Icelandic population to Canada and United States in subsequent years. The tour takes 11-12 hours and it starts at 8 am at the Information Centre in Reykjahlíð, Mývatn. From there you will be driven through the wondrous Mývatnsöræfi. The mountain road is surprisingly comfortable compared to many others. It’s a rare privilege to stop and sip the clear water of the spring-fed rivers that you have just forded in this remote Highland paradise!
–
Mývatn Tours Arnarnesi • 660 Mývatni
+354 464 1920
myvatntours@gmail.com www.askjatours.is
131
www.icelandictimes.com
EMV
We provide only new cars At competitive prices
Since 1979
Pick up service at your hotel or guest house Int.Airport KeflavĂk & Dom. Airport ReykjavĂk | Tel.: +354 554 6040 | atak@atak.is | www.atak.is
To u r i s m , C u lt u r e
and
Business
I s s u e 19 • 2013
Step Back in Time
A stay in Hótel Flatey is a trip into the life of the past
I
t seems that time stopped sometime about a century ago when you get off the Baldur ferry in Flatey. Life is slow here, far from the frenetic pace of most of the world’s cities. You feel a wave of peace and calm flow over your spirit as you walk past small coloured cottages, with the sheep grazing just outside their doors.
Life goes on without the Internet
Was there life before the Internet? Here, there is freedom from the tyranny of email and the web—and it’s a real relief. The world goes on and you really miss very little of it. It seems out of place to even have a laptop or mobile phone here.
A rich history and culture
The island of Flatey is the largest of the thousa nds of isla nds in t he mystica l Breiðafjörður Bay. It has been inhabited since the days of the Settlement. This small community has a rich history. It had it’s own church and doctor and it’s library held a treasury of old manuscripts. The library still stands today behind the church and has been an inspiration for authors, musicians and artists for centuries.
The Hótel with a History
Hótel Flatey started life as a ‘pakkhús’, or warehouse for the goods brought by large sailing ships that moored in the natural harbour. Today, it has 11 rooms, consisting of 1 large family room, 3 suites and 7 double rooms for the many visitors who want to spend a little more time on the island. The rooms retain the style of the past, complete with magazines from the early 1960s. It’s popular with photographers for the island’s rich birdlife and interesting landscapes and birds unafraid to approach the house. The restaurant has been used for many purposes: It began life as a warehouse, then a meeting house, a radio communication house, young people’s association, gym and theatre. It is still used for music concerts of every genre, especially on the weekends. Downstairs, there used to be a salt storage and a place for tanning sheep skins. Now converted to a bar—the Salt Bar, you’ll be reminded of your childhood with seats from the old school, the wooden vaulting box and benches from the old church. It’s full of character and good drinks.
A Summertime Special
The Hótel is open from the end of May and closes at the end of August. Nowadays, only the two farming families stay on the island throughout the year. They still raise the sheep to be seen wandering on the island. –
Hótel Flatey Flatey • 345 Flatey
+354 555 7788 info@Hótelflatey.is www.Hótelflatey.is
52
www.icelandictimes.com
ASF
Meet The Ocean’s Big Five Láki Tours takes you to meet the whales and more
A
nyone who has met them will agree that whales are amazing animals— especially seen close up. Whether they be orcas, humpbacks, minke or pilot whales— or dolphins, for that matter, meeting them is a real experience.
Basking in the Bay
Grundarfjörður and Ólafsvík lie on the mystical Breiðafjörður Bay—a fantasy world of countless islands, birds, fish, dolphins and whales. They are sighted almost daily through the year here. Recently, for instance, 100 pilot whales put on a show for visitors aboard Láki’s boat. Such a high rate of sighting a range of these maritime creatures makes this area tops for both experience and photo opportunities. The tour to the whales leaves from Ólafsvík.
Fins and Feathers
While the whales are very popular, the tour to the islands to see the birdlife and catch some fish is not to be missed. Sea angling is a lot of fun, if you haven’t tried it—and if you catch your dinner yourself you can certainly
guarantee its freshness. You’re in the perfect position to spot any whales or dolphins who There is wildlife in the area that you won’t are curious enough to see what you’re up to want to miss from killer whales and diving and if you’re taking their dinner! gannets to the fox and the white-tailed eagle. The photographers on this tour will have a feast of their own, with so many photo opportunities including, of course, the elusive little puffin. This 3–4 hour tour from Grundarfjörður on the Láki is an experience that many want to repeat. During the summer months, as the evening sun paints the sky red, the bay takes on a wholly different, romantic character. Sea angling in this setting is quite special, too.
Staying at the Hótel Framnes, situated right by the bay, is a very good choice, as it perfectly located for whale watching. It is a comfortable, homey hotel that provides very friendly and personal service. You can watch the sky changing over the bay in the evening as you relax in the hot pot. Its restaurant offers delicious freshly-caught fish on its Stay by the Bay gourmet menu. Tours on the Láki are not all that this area Open all year round, the hotel makes a has to offer. It is very popular for hikers, very good base for all your activities on and photographers, bird watchers and horse around the peninsula. – ASF riders, as all these activities are available— not to mention tours up onto the famous Láki Tours Snæfells glacier. No one has yet replicated Nesvegi 6 • 350 Grundarfjörður +354 438 6893 Jules Verne’s ‘Journey to the Centre of the framnes@hotelframnes.is www.lakitours.com Earth’ but the glacier is spectacular.
www.icelandictimes.com
53
To u r i s m , C u lt u r e
and
Business
I s s u e 21 • 2014
The Brave get the Best
The Sea Baron’s Fish Meals attract visitors from all over the world
I
celand has many ‘different’ foods which have their roots in seafaring history. The Vikings came up with many novel ways of preserving their foods and their traditions continue to this day. Some of these foods sound unappealing, to say the least, and it takes the adventurous soul to step out and try them. Iceland is for the adventurous and they reap the benefits of the brave. The timid stick to burgers!
and soon he was shifting his boxes out to make room for tables and chairs. He took the unusual and created delicious meals that no-one else had thought of. He took old recipes, some of which sounded revolting, and made meals that have established his reputation around the world.
The Sea Baron himself
A former fisherman and Coast Guard chef, Kjartan Halldórsson, also known as the Sea Baron, is the master of unusual fish dishes. His lobster soup, for example, has gained fame around the world, earning it the title of ‘the world’s greatest lobster soup’. While he doesn’t reveal the secrets of his recipe, that doesn’t stop his restaurant from being filled every day with aficionados. He entered the restaurant business by chance. One day, when standing by his boxes of fish, some foreign visitors asked if he could prepare some fish for them. Spotting an opportunity, he ran to the nearest hardware store to buy a grill—and was in business! His visitors were invited to dine in his shop in this improbable restaurant. Word quickly spread
16
In true spirit
Kjartan, the true Sea Baron recently retired and passed his mantle to Elísabet Jean Skúladóttir, an energetic and vibrant young woman who bought the restaurant three years ago at the Sea Baron’s request. Kjartan wanted to make sure his place would be well taken care of in the years to come. Kjartan jokes that, not only did Elísabet make a great investment by purchasing the restaurant, but he was included in the deal himself. Kjartans spirit is palpable as visitors will not only feel his energy but he is there to greet them in the form of a wax sculpture!
www.icelandictimes.com
Dining as a Seafaring Experience
Kjartan’s restaurant is popular with the fishermen who sailed for many years from Reykjavik. It is filled with memorabilia donated by old sea captains and their families, that fill it with a character all its own. Handmade model sailing boats, pictures of ships of the past and stuffed birds fill the second floor’s walls, where groups of up to 35 can celebrate together. Eating at the polished tables, sitting on cushioned fish barrels, surrounded by paraphernalia of the sea, it is an experience that will leave you with both good memories, a satisfied appetite—and perhaps, a rather shocked mind that you would actually have eaten fermented fish and that it tasted so, so good. Moby dick on a stick (minke whale on a spear) for example, is also a play with words with great impact, delicious and stirring as are the great variety of other fish spears with a mix of cod, blue ling, salmon, trout, lobster and giant shrimp to name a few. Also worth mentioning is an Icelandic specialty dish, available at noon, Tuesdays, Thursdays and Saturdays - combined of fermented fish, (skate on Saturdays) with heaps of hamsatólg (fried fat), potatoes and rye bread with butter. This delicacy is only available from 1st September – 30th April. For desert as a true Icelander, one should enjoy grjónagrautur or rice pudding of sorts, often served with raisins and cinnamon flavored sugar. –
Sægreifinn Geirsgata 8 • 101 Reykjavík
+354 553 1500 info@saegreifinn.is www.saegreifinn.is
ASF
Greenland Charms Mystic Gifts From the Wild
I
n the middle of busy Laugavegur, in the heart of Reykjavik, you’ll find a door to another world. The Ravens’ shop door is always open; the atmospheric sounds coming from within invite passers-by to come closer, to bury their hands in the silky reindeer skins at the entrance and to get in touch with Greenland. Ravens is not only a specialist shop for jackets and waistcoats made from quality arctic fur, it is probably the only place in Iceland where you can purchase sealskin that can be used for your own designs and also one of the very few places to find horsehide leather.
artists, solely men, transform natural materia ls into u nique ma sterpieces – traditional items like car ved amulets, rings and backscratchers. The selection of aesthetically carved knives comes with high quality blades from the famous Danish knife maker Poul Strande. Chefs, cooks and knife aficionados will surely not leave the store empty handed once they see
the traditional women’s knife known as an ‘ulo’, which can be used for anything from cooking to skinning—a gem in every hunter’s collection!
Guardian Spirits
The knives match perfectly with the carved tupilaks made from horn. No doubt, the grimaces of these traditional shamanic ghosts will provide inviolable powers for those who decide to give them a new home. Tupilaks are Greenland’s charms and are well known among art collectors.
Sealskin Design to Keep You Warm
Tuneful music from Greenland takes you on its wings while you explore the well laid-out shop with its range of hats, incredibly soft gloves, designer bags and elegant sneakers. For hundreds of years, sealskin clothing has helped the Inuit to survive Greenland’s arctic cold, and it continues to do so today. Women in Greenland still wear sealskin trousers, in extraordinary contrast to the delicate bead necklaces you see displayed in the glass display cabinets. These colourful necklaces are traditional women’s jewellery, and can be used to embellish both a décolleté as well as worn over warm clothes.
Spirit Charms
As the Icelandic twilight casts its spell on Laugavegur, the last rays of light turn amulets, hanging from a reindeer antler, golden— claws and teeth from Greenland’s wild animals, carefully polished and threaded onto thin leather cords. A guillemot and a huge black raven, both stuffed, sit silently nearby keeping watch over the shop. Greenland’s wild spirit is inherent in its fauna and will charm you at Ravens. –
Nature’s Masterpieces
DT
Raven Art
R avens’ hand-cra f ted items originate from Kulusuk, a small island off the East Greenland coast where a group of native
Laugavegur 15 • 101 Reykjavík
+354 551 1080 ravens@ravens.is www.ravens.is
www.icelandictimes.com
17
To u r i s m , C u lt u r e
and
Business
I s s u e 19 • 2013
Birdwatchers’ Paradise
A wide variety of species nest around both the coastline of Reykhólahreppur and on the islands of Breidafjorður Bay. One of the most impressive are the majestic and elusive whitetailed eagles Reykhólahreppur:OverlookingBreiðafjörðurfromtheWestfjords (haliaeetus albicilla), that both nest in the area he Westfjords’ south coast holds one including a campsite, stores, museums, a unique and can be seen flying over Reykhólar. of Iceland’s hidden pearls. It’s a small, seaweed spa at Sjávarsmiðjan and a geothermal peaceful community with both natural swimming pool. The oldest summer hotel in Uncountable Islands phenomena and a grand landscape. Over Iceland, Hotel Bjarkalundur, provides quality Some say Breidafjörður Bay’s islands are a dozen fjords surround the island-dotted accommodation, dining and picturesque views. uncountable though cartographers estimate mystical Breidafjörður Bay with its beautiful Throughout history Reykhólar has been there are around 3,000. Eyjasigling at Reykhólar scenery, historical and poetic references and home to many of Iceland’s most prominent offers cruises to inhabited islands and those exceptional birdlife. chieftains and is frequently mentioned in the uninhabited except for the plethora of birds. – VAG Icelandic sagas. A Service Centre with a History Flatey Island is an important cultural site. A Reykhólahreppur Two and a half hour’s drive from Reykjavik on visit takes you back to the year 1900. Reminders Reykhólar • 380 Reykhólahreppur +354 434 7880 paved roads, Reykhólar village is the county’s of past times include a monastery built in 1172 skrifstofa@reykholar.is www.reykholar.is centre, providing a full range of services, and Iceland’s first library built in 1864.
Mystic History T
B1, B 2 , B 6 , B12 , C, E, K, pantothenic acid, folic acid, and niacin. They are an important supply of 60 trace elements and an excellent source of over 12 minerals, especially sodium, potassium, calcium, magnesium, phosphorus, iron, zinc and manganese. Other health benefits of seaweed baths include reduction of tension, muscle pain and fatigue, improved circulation, aiding Sjávarsmiðjan’s Seaweed therapy brings health and relief weight loss and cellulite control and easing f just the word ‘spa’ evokes feelings of Add to this the wonderful proven health menopausal discomforts. Those with asthma, comfort and well-being, you should benefits of seaweed gel and you will come out arthritis, insomnia, inflammation, dermatitis try the real thing—especially after a day’s rejuvenated, with your skin as soft as silk, and psoriasis find great improvements. – ASF hiking in the beautiful Reykhólar area, with strengthened and with improved elasticity. its birds, seals and whales—not to mention Seaweed detox if ies t he body by Sjávarsmiðjan the spectacular countryside. Soaking in stimulating the release of excess body fluids. Vesturbraut 2 • 380 Reykhólar +354 577 4800 Sjávarsmiðjan’s hot pots, with its natural Toxins are replaced by minerals. Scientists sjavarsmidjan@sjavarsmidjan.is www.sjavarsmidjan.is hot water, is both relaxing and invigorating. report that Seaweeds are rich in vitamins A1,
Soft as Silk Spa I
64
www.icelandictimes.com
Trolls and the Hidden People
The Western Fjords are a world apart, as reflected in the folk tale of the trolls who tried to dig this mountainous peninsula away from the mainland to establish a troll colony, free of men and their meddling. The landscape is a mixture of deep narrow fjords, high mountains and luscious green plants. Tall cliffs, teeming with birdlife rise sharply Hotel Bjarkalundur is at the entrance to the West Fjords from the deep blue sea. Enjoy a respite at Bjarkalundur before n d e r t h e m a j e s t i c Va ð a l f j ö l l A World Apart mountain, with its two distinctive Bjarkalundur is conveniently located to stop and after experiencing the amazing charm tops of volca nic ba sa lt plugs, nestles for a breather before entering Iceland’s most of the West Fjords and their people. You Bjarkalundur, the oldest country hotel in remote region, the West Fjords. The hotel has, will find it just off Road 60. – SS Iceland. Surrounded by an ancient birch throughout its history, welcomed guests and wood, the hotel’s immediate environment made them comfortable. In the past, dances Hótel Bjarkalundur is friendly and welcoming. This historic and were held during the summer months and Bjarkalundi • 380 Reykhólahreppi +354 434 7762 popular resting spot has served Icelanders still the Midsummer Night bonfire is an event bjarkalundur@bjarkalundur.is www.bjarkalundur.is and foreign guests for sixty-six years. enjoyed by local people and travellers alike.
Iceland’s Oldest Country Hotel
U
Peace with Nature and Birds Hótel Látrabjarg brings back the simple joys of life
O
n E u r o p e ’s w e s t e r n – m o s t t ip, Hóte l L át r a bja r g i s s e t a m id s t a photo g r a phe r’s a nd bi rd w atc he r’s paradise at the furthermost point of the Westfjords. It’s a rugged countryside here, with sheer cliffs rising high above the fjords. Although the road is paved from the ferry terminal to Patreksfjörður, the nearest town, from the end of the fjord,
a gravel road takes you to the beaches of Rauðasandur, the bird cliffs of Látrabjarg and the hotel. The route is studded with spectacular vistas, ending in a bay that, with its curved white sand beach and clear blue waters looks as if it belongs in a travel brochure for the Caribbean. The hotel has a commanding view of the fjord, where whales can sometimes be seen,
www.icelandictimes.com
and of the bay and valley below, where sheep graze peacefully. It’s an almost idyllic situation during the summer months, when it is open from 15th May to 20th September. It was originally built as a boarding school for local children. Although it can handle up to 40 guests, owners Karl and Sigríður like to maintain a close, homely atmosphere and therefore do not take groups during the high season. This has made it popular with individuals who appreciate its simple style, delicious meals and tranquil surroundings, with their constantly changing colours. –
ASF
Hótel Látrabjarg Fagrihvammur • 451 Patreksfirði
+354 456 1500 info@latrabjarg.com www.latrabjarg.com
65
To u r i s m , C u lt u r e
and
Business
I s s u e 19 • 2013
Where Monsters Rule
joined on-screen by academic theories on the nature of sea monsters, while a variety of relics and artefacts relating to this mysterious branch Sea Monster Museum of Bíldudalur of zoology appear throughout the museum as a les of sea monsters have played This fjord is reputed to be one of the most prolific tangible evidence for their existence. an important and colourful role in centres of monster activity in the country. Those with monster appetite will appreciate Icelandic folk culture for centuries, and Visitors to the Sea Monster Museum watch the museum’s cafeteria which offers a range of several written accounts of them can be these remarkable creatures brought to life light refreshments and snacks. – SV found in all parts of the country. through a lively mix of words, images and These elusive creatures have been given videos as well as an action-packed multimedia Monster Museum a worthy home at the Iceland Sea Monster display that culminates in a spectacular Dalbraut 1 • 465 Bíldudalur +354 894 1684 Museum, located in the village of Bíldudalur, interactive map, the first of its kind in Iceland. info@eaglefjord.is www.eaglefjord.is which nestles on the shores of Arnarfjörður fjord. First-hand accounts from eye-witnesses are
T
in and out of Arnarfjörður fjord for decades as a professional trawler fisherman without recognising the scenic beauty. Showing people the amazing things we have here has helped me ‘see’ what I never saw before and to appreciate the things I used to take for granted,” he says.
Westfjords Revealed
The One-Stop Shop
EagleFjord Tours offer an amazing range of activities which truly makes it a one-stop shop Let EagleFjord Tours in Bíldudalur be your guide for visitors. Whether you like exploring Viking ould you like to take a bath in a culture and business life of the area his whole Age burial sites, sea angling, whale watching, natural hot spring in the Westfjords life but turned his full attention to tourism hiking or great food – Jón at EagleFjord Tours only the locals know? Jón at EagleFjord Tours in 2007. Before, he used to be a commercial offers it all. Visit his website for details. – SV in the village Bíldudalur is the local guide for trawler fisherman, fish factory owner and Arnarfjörður and Tálknafjörður fjords – and shopkeeper. Jón takes great interest in his EagleFjord Travel Service he’s not just an average local guide. surroundings, the nature, history and culture Dalbraut 1 • 465 Bíldudalur +354 894 1684 Jón loves showing visitors his part of the for some time and visitors help him appreciate info@eaglefjord.is www.eaglefjord.is world. He has been submerged in the local it even more. “I used to sail back and forth
W
66
www.icelandictimes.com
Hótel Ísafjörður
Hótel Ísafjörður is all about comfort – a three star hotel with splendid views, a quality restaurant, lift, airport bus, fully equipped rooms with showers and a 24-hour reception. For those who want to go all out, the deluxe room is the way to go.
Accommodation for All A Platform for Your Westfjord Excursions
B
eing one of the most remote regions you’re likely to find, one might suspect that it could prove to be a challenge to find suitable accommodation deep in the Westfjords of Iceland. Quite to the contrary, the village of Ísafjörður now boasts of three different options, each suited to different needs and tastes, which make for the perfect base from which to explore the winding fjords and extreme landscapes visitors are likely to enjoy to the fullest.
Heydalur
Valagil Álftafjörður
The Old Guesthouse
Gamla gistihúsið, or the Old Guesthouse, is aptly named, as it is located in a house dating all the way back to 1896, which is quite old according to Icelandic standards. The rustic atmosphere makes for a cosy and affordable stay for weary travellers, singles and families alike, but even though the house is over a century old, it is up to modern standards and has free Wi-Fi. Backpackers and those travelling on a shoestring would be well advised to check out their sleeping bag option.
Vigur
Hótel Horn
Hótel Horn is a brand new hotel opening its doors this summer. It offers a total of 24 fully equipped rooms, including family rooms with small kitchen areas. No visitor should feel left out in the cold in Ísafjörður and the Westfjords await. –
VAG
Hótel Ísafjörður Silfurtorg 2 • 4 Ísafjörður
+354 456 4111
info@hotelisafjordur.is www.hotelisafjordur.is
Litlibær in Skötufjörður
Arctic Fox Centre
A beautiful area to visit
• A wide range of wildlife • Many hiking trails • Helpful tourist services • Arctic Fox Centre celebrates its 3rd anniversary on 9th June • ‘Deep Fjord Day’ on the 3rd August. • Blueberry Days will be held from 16 – 18th August
Raggagarður
Reykjanes
Fox
Seals at Hvítanes
www.icelandictimes.com
See you in
Súðavík
www.sudavik.is
Puffin
Campsite in Súðavík
67
To u r i s m , C u lt u r e
and
Business
I s s u e 19 • 2013
Iceland’s First Settler T
he arctic fox is an enchanting creature. At some point in the distant past, it travelled across the frozen sea and, in spite of the inhospitable climate, found a home on this small, isolated island. The arctic fox is Iceland’s only native terrestrial land mammal and has been the subject of curiosity by scholars and lay people alike. For this reason, The Arctic Fox Centre was established in the village of Súðavík in 2010, since the fox is commonly found in the area.
Exhibition of the first native
The Centre is located in the oldest house in Súðavík, a 120 year-old farm that was renovated by the local authorities and is situated between what locals call the ‘old village’, destroyed in a devastating avalanche in 1995, and the ‘new village’, built in its stead at a safe distance from the mountain.
The Centre serves as an educational and cultural hub and offers an extensive exhibition on the arctic fox as well as regularly exhibiting local arts and crafts. Its main aim however, is to collect and preserve everything of importance regarding the arctic fox and its long-lasting relationship with man as surprisingly, fox hunting is the oldest paid occupation in Iceland. The exhibition is divided into three sections: the biology of the fox, the hunting
Vesturof the fox and the hunters themselves, this last mentioned containing, for example, objects and personal accounts from fox hunters. Other material is presented through written text or video and, of course, there are quite a few stuffed animals. Visitors are guided through the exhibition, which is one of a kind in Iceland and open all year round. The Centre is a non-profit business, involved in research and studies on the population of the fox. They also offer guidance on arctic fox tours in collaboration with tourist offices as well as believing in and supporting ecotourism in Iceland. A nice little café at the Centre sells homebaked pastries, light courses and wonderful coffee, which guests can enjoy out on the patio overlooking the beautiful mountains and the sea. The café has open Internet access. On Friday nights, live music is performed in the loft, where it’s nice to sit down for a drink in the cosy atmosphere. The Centre also has a small boutique selling specially made souvenirs and craftwork. –
Artic Fox Centre Eyrardalur • 420 Súðavík
+354 456 4922 melrakki@melrakki.is www.melrakki.is
70
www.icelandictimes.com
HÞ
Images by © Þórður Sigurðsson
The furtive little arctic fox is found in the Westfjords in Súðavík
the women’s dormitory along with the old herring factory and the hotel started there.” Most guests stay at Hótel Djúpavík in search of a nature experience. Many walk from one fjord to another but others use cars, kayaks or boats to get from place to place. Eva and Asbjörn provide guidance and advice on what to see and how to get Hótel Djúpavík, comfort and care at the edge of the world there along with comfort and rest after a ntouched nature and interesting way to live off the land and, when all the long day’s exploration. history are among the attractions of fjords were filled with herring, it became an Djúpavík at Strandir. In this remote part of important player in the hunt for the ‘silver of A Historical Exhibition Iceland, a special breed of people found a the sea’. Now it is a paradise for walkers and The Herring Factory is now the site of nature lovers who come to Hotel Djúpavík Djúpavík’s Historical Exhibition, where old photographs and texts lead viewers through from early spring till autumn. the life and times of people in this quiet cove Old factory and dormitory at the edge of the world. There are guided Hótel Djúpavík was established in 1985 tours provided daily at 10 am and 2pm. – JB when Eva Sig urbjörnsdót tir a nd her husband Ásbjörn Þorgilsson decided to Hótel Djúpavík cultivate guests rather than fish. “We had Djúpavík • 524 Árneshreppur +354 451 4037 planned to start a fish farm but were unable djupavik@snerpa.is www.djupavik.com to get a loan,” says Eva. “We had bought
A Nature Paradise U
West Tours’ clients can choose between many services. If you plan a day trip, a weekend or a longer trip in the Westfjords during summer or winter, West Tours will be happy to make an unforgettable experience happen.
Activities offered in 2013
ATV tours, bike rentals, bird watching, horseback riding, hikes and walks, various kayaking tours, local food tastings, RiBboat safaris, scooter rentals, sea angling, West Tours help you get the most from this amazing area sightseeing tours by car or boat, whale he Westfjords are an amazing peninsula in Hólmavík and in one of the villages in the watching, winter activities, Northern Lights characterized by steep, flat and also southern part of the region during summer. tours and many kinds of package services. peaked mountains between deep blue fjords, West Tours’ objective is the presentation, beautiful colourful beaches with inhabitants marketing and selling of all tourism-related We look forward to seeing you in who make travellers feel warmly welcome. services that are offered all over the peninsula. the Westfjords! West Tours is the most experienced travel West Tours is now owned by about 60 tourismagency and tour operator in the region, related companies and individuals that all, in West Tours celebrating its 20th anniversary in 2013. The some way, are connected to the Westfjords. Aðalstræti 7, 400 Ísafjörður +354 456 5111 West Tours office is based in Ísafjörður and Good co-operation between the companies is westtours@westtours.is www.westtours.is small booking offices are planned to operate seen as the key for a positive outcome.
Westfjords Wonders T
www.icelandictimes.com
71
The Herring Museum The Herring Era Museum in Siglufjörður is an award-winning museum bringing to life the ‘glory days’ of Iceland’s herring fishing industry in three different buildings. Snorragötu 16 • 580 Siglufirð
+354 467 1604
safn@sild.is
www.sild.is
The FolkmusicCentre
Traditional Icelandic music and folk dance. Folk Music Festival 3rd-7th July Open daily, June- August from 12-18
Allinn
Allinn restaurant specialises in Icelandic home cooking and pizzas. It is situated in a beautifully restored house overlooking Siglufjörður’s main square. It is reasonably priced and suits people of all ages.
Norðurgötu 1 • 580 Siglufirði +354 467 2300
www.folkmusik.is
Aðalgata 30 • 580 Siglufjörður
+354 467 1111
Niels Whale watching Daily from Hauganes in North Iceland from 25 May – 5 Sept. at 09:30 and from 25 June – 20 August at 18:00 Sailing on the beautiful, long and narrow fjord of Eyjafjörður in search of whales. A unique opportunity to enjoy witnessing whales, fish and birds in their natural habitat on board a traditional Icelandic oak boat. On every tour we also offer our guests to try catching some fish, if interested. This is a fully guided tour and includes coffee and homemade pastries.
Hauganesi • 621 Dalvík niels@niels.is
72
www.icelandictimes.com
+354 867 0000 www.niels.is
The Arctic Bow
Mystic Beauty Thebeautyofthenortherntownswiththeirvibrantlifestyle
Hannes Boy and Kaffi Rauka Among the top restaurants in the north of Iceland offer traditional specialities. Relax by the harbourside Rauðka restaurant—food—live music
Gránugata 5 • 580 Siglufjörður
+354 467 1550
raudka@raudka.is
Singing in the Silence
On the Troll Peninsula, Hotel Brimnes surrounds you with nature
I
t’s as if the birds know the photographers and nature lovers are coming. They put on their most colourful attire and their singing can be heard all around the lake and surrounding mountains at this time of year. We’re up in the north of Iceland, on the banks of Ólafsfjörður lake. The view is stunning, like a picture postcard - but it’s real. Hotel Brimnes has recently refurbished its 11 hotel rooms. Its 8 popular log cabins
on the lake’s edge, each with its own private hot tub fed by a nearby geothermal source, accommodate families or groups of up to six, who love to go trout fishing, kayaking, diving, horse riding, hiking or cycling around this beauty spot.
A picture of tranquility and beauty
On a still day, the lake is like a mirror, reflecting the surrounding mountains on its surface. It’s a place to come to be refilled,
www.icelandictimes.com
www.raudka.is
far from the madding crowd of cities and smog. The pristine beauty restores the soul and provides a different perspective on life. Of course, the world is out there and, if you need it, there is free WiFi in all the rooms. The hotel’s restaurant provides delicious meals with ingredients from the area and has a great wine selection to go with them.
The Arctic Bow
This part of North Iceland, known as the Actic Bow, is also known for its spectacular scenery. With the opening of the new tunnels, access to the whole Troll Peninsula is easy. Spring, Summer, Autumn or Winter, you will find plenty to enjoy here. –
ASF
Brimnes Hótel Bylgjubyggð 2 • 625 Ólafsfjörður
+354 466 2400 hotel@brimnes.is www.brimnes.is
73
To u r i s m , C u lt u r e
and
Business
I s s u e 19 • 2013
The Arctic Bow
Amazing range of scenes, history and nature
T
he Arctic Bow is the name of the remarkable 184 km scenic and historic route along Tröllaskagi (Troll Peninsula) on the north coast of Iceland, stretching from Varmahlíð in the west to Akureyri in the east, passing through the recently built 11 km long tunnels between the towns of Siglufjörður and Ólafsfjörður. Along this route, there’s beautiful nature, excellent accommodation, fresh local food and a variety of activities to enjoy.
Hólar
A small university community and episcopal see started in the early 12h century. The current cathedral dates back to 1763 and those interested in Icelandic horses will surely enjoy the Icelandic Horse History Centre. The nearby village of Hofsós hosts the Icelandic Emigration Centre and an award-winning swimming pool, neatly located on the seaboard.
the comfort of one of Rauðka’s excellent harbour-side restaurants with stunning views of nature.
Ólafsfjörður
Also known for its stunningly beautiful surroundings, it is best enjoyed on foot. Visitors can choose to hike with a map and a compass, or make use of one of the sign-posted hiking routes. Scheduled whale watching trips are available in summer and kayaks and bikes can be rented at the quiet Brimnes hotel and bungalows by the town’s beautiful lake.
Dalvík
In Eyjafjörður, Dalvík’s annual August event, The Great Fish Soup Day, is attended by thousands who enjoy the free seafood soup and entertainment for the whole family. Dalvik’s Hvoll Folk Museum provides insight into the life and work of the local people. Amongst other things, it Siglufjörður commemorates ‘Jói the Giant’, the tallest Best known for its ‘Herring Era’ in the Icelander ever, thought to have been 231 cm. 40’s and 50’s. Visitors can watch local Sea angling and whale watching tours are boats bringing in the catch of the day from available from Dalvik’s pier; horseriding tours
74
www.icelandictimes.com
can be taken in the Svarfadardalur nature reserve and a ferry sails from Árskógsandur to the beautiful island of Hrísey.
Grímsey
Grímse y Isla nd is t he nor t hernmost settlement of Iceland. The Arctic Circle c ro s s e s t h i s sm a l l i s l a nd w ho s e 9 0 inhabitants depend on the fishing industry. The island can be reached by ferry from Dalvík and by air from Akureyri.
The Photographers’ dream
The Trollaskagi peninsula, and its islands of Hrísey, Grímsey, Málmey and Drangey are renowned for an amazing birdlife. Photographers interested in photographing the birds should register and participate in the ‘Bird for a million’ photo contest. There is a ISK 1 million cash price for the winner. Visit www.birdforamillion.com for more – SHV information about the contest.
On Top of the World
Siglufjörður Hostel provides great accommodation for travellers
F
ormerly one of the most glamorous hotels in Iceland in the hey-day of the herring bonanza in the 1930s, Hvanneyri guesthouse and hostel is still, today, the place to stay when you are far north of Iceland in Siglufjörður on the Troll peninsula. Today, it is a family-owned and run hostel and it has that feeling of staying in a warm, comfortable family home with helpful family members who take an interest in you.
Whether you are travelling alone, with a family or in a group, you will find a friendly welcome and comfortable stay for budgetconscious travellers with all the facilities one expects in a modern guesthouse and hostel. That includes free Wi-Fi, parking, a barbeque grill, a guest kitchen—and free coffee, too. This has been an international centre since it was built. Its reputation has spread across the
Just Opened
SiglunesGuesthouseoffersacomfortablestaywithanoldworldcharm
A
new guesthouse just opened in the very north of Iceland, in Siglufjörður. The building has been totally renovated and yet, with the wood panelling in the bar and lounge and the old style furniture, you feel you have stepped back in time. The beds a re a ll new, high qua lit y and very comfortable - something you’ll appreciate after travelling or hiking in the mountains. The second and third f loor bedrooms all have private bathrooms and
a mountain view. The six rooms on the ground floor have shared bathrooms. All have Wi-Fi access. Siglunes Guesthouse provides healthy choices for break fasts throughout the ye a r. For a d ay out h i k i ng or ot her outdoor activities, they can provide food packs and from mid-June until the end of August, the restaurant will be open for dinners in the evenings. Where possible, locally grown food is offered.
www.icelandictimes.com
continents and it is a hub for travellers of all nations, some of whom return year after year. L oc ate d on t he m a i n st re e t , it i s surrounded by the town’s bakery, restaurants and shops, making it a perfect place to set up base for hiking or photography—or just simply enjoying the spectacularly beautiful countryside with its mountains and fjord. –
ASF
Hvanneyri Guesthouse Adalgata 10 • 580 Siglufjörður
+354 467 1506 order@hvanneyri.com www.hvanneyri.com
Siglufjörður is a good base for hiking and bird photography. The views are nothing short of spectacular at any time of the year and the birdlife is amazingly varied. It is a popular place for sport, culture and history and my personal favourite town for its beauty and friendliness. The trip alone is worth it and it’s a perfect place to stop when taking the scenic ‘Arctic Bow’ route around the north. –
ASF
Siglunes Guesthouse Lækjargata 10 • 580 Siglufjörður
+354 467 1222 info@hotelsiglunes.is www.hotelsiglunes.is
75
To u r i s m , C u lt u r e
and
Business
I s s u e 19 • 2013
Dining with a Harbour View
from being the main catering service of the town, organising all sorts of events, to being a restaurant serving a wide range delicious food at fair prices, such as fish, steaks, hamburgers and pizzas. This spring, this happy hard working family opened the bakery and coffee house, to add to the restaurant. This enables them to be open all day as a bakery and coffee house (from 9 am to 5 pm during the week and 10 am till 4 pm on weekends— including Sunday) and then to be open as a restaurant at lunch time and in the evening or from 6 pm to 9pm or later.
Harbour view restaurant, coffee house and bakery
If you are driving around the Trollskagi peninsula, following the Arctic Bow route around this northern beauty spot, you will naturally want to stop for a break en route and stock up for your travels with delicious snacks. If you have children with you, it’s practically a requirement!
overlooking the lively harbour of Dalvík. In many ways, it is the centre of the action, as it is a popular gathering place for the local community. So, if you are travelling and would like to combine meeting the local people while enjoying a good snack or meal, this is the obvious choice.
Eating and meeting with a view
Dinner, snack or drink
Við höfnina, meaning by the harbour, is a It is run by the cheerful school teacher and cosy family run restaurant, coffee house and cook, Gústaf Adólf Þórarinsson and his a bakery, right in the centre of the action, family. The restaurant has been developing
Try the cumin coffee
In the bakery, a wide variety of freshly baked, healthy breads, buns, sandwiches, pastries and cakes are available. It’s an ideal place to take a break, and stock up for your onward journey or just to relax and enjoy a delicious cake and real hot chocolate, tea or cumin coffee that is traditional in the area. On warm days it is possible to sit outside in a sheltered outdoor area, taking in the sun. Here you are likely to be joined by others and it’s amazing how a friendly place like this can lead to new friendships, forged over something as simple as a cup of coffee. –
AMB/ASF
Við höfnina Hafnarbraut 5 • 620 Dalvík
+354 466 2040 dallas@dallas.is www.dallas.is
76
www.icelandictimes.com
The Old Post Office
Jóa Guesthouse connects people and places
I
n Ólafsfjördur, on the Troll peninsula, a cherry-red heart is beating for guests and travellers. Jóa Guesthouse, in the middle of this beautiful North Iceland town, can easily be found, due to its bright red colour. Once having stepped inside, you don’t want to leave. The town’s old post off ice has been renovated brilliantly by a young couple, Bjarkey and Helgi. They offer six elegant rooms on the first f loor, all of which are furnished with a different type of wooden
floor, that refer back to the old times and which have gained much attention. You will find brand new comfortable beds, basins, closets, and, of course, free WiFi. Dark curtains in front of every window will guarantee a good sleep even through bright Icelandic summer nights. The two bathrooms on the floor are fully equipped.
A Breakfast for exploring
When you wake in the morning and open your curtains, you will enjoy the amazing
panorama across the bay. Then, to start the day off right, you head downstairs into Kaffi Klara, the just recently opened book-café, where guests are served a delicious buffet breakfast to get ready for their day. If you need any help with your plans or directions, you can find any assistance you need at the desk. It is like the old post office has come to a pulsating new life as a place for connecting people and places. –
DT
Jóa Guesthouse Strandgata 2 • 625 Ólafsfjörður
+354 845 2737
gistihusjoa@gmail.com www.joesguesthouse.is
Sweet Memories of Iceland Icelandic Souvenirs Your Friends and Family will Love
O
ne of the things on the “to do” list while visiting Iceland is to pick up some really cool and fun souvenirs for family and friends. To fill this need, Ísland Treasures has a range of souvenir candies to suit almost every taste. Why not pick up a cute box of Icelandic Puffin Eggs for grandma? She will love the beautiful painting of a typical puffin colony on an Icelandic sea cliff and be wowed by the unique taste of the combination of chocolate and liquorice that is so popular with Icelanders. That golf–playing uncle would just be thrilled to receive the funny golfers’ version of Icelandic Puffin Eggs with the puffin and the golfer confused over which white ball is theirs. Friends at work might like some Icelandic Lava Sparks—traditional Icelandic toffee in a red crispy shell which come packed with an amazing painting of Eyjafjallajökull er upt i ng i n 2010 or Ic ela nd ic L ava Pebbles—traditional Icelandic liquorice toffee with a hint of chocolate wrapped in
a black crispy shell packed with a beautiful painting of Skógafoss waterfall. Hopefully you will get the chance to view the Northern Lights dancing across the Icelandic skies on your visit but if not, why not take home some Icelandic Northern Lights—hand made, all natural, peppermint sugar candies in the amazing colours of the Northern Lights. Available in all the best tourist shops, hotels and the duty free store at Kef lavik airport.
–
ASF
Ísland Treasures Skagabraut 25 • 300 Akranes
+354 612 5065
islandtreasures@gmx.com www.islandtreasures.biz
www.icelandictimes.com
77
To u r i s m , C u lt u r e
and
Business
I s s u e 19 • 2013
Horses, History & Nature
Skagafjörður–DiverseNature,GreatAdventuresandHistoricalExperiences
W
hen the Icelandic traveller thinks of Skagafjörður, what undoubtedly comes to mind is the steep, picturesque cliff of Drangey, which towers majestically in the midst of the big fjord from which the district derives its name. Resulting from countless references to Drangey both in history and culture, this small island is firmly embedded in the Icelandic psyche. S ec ond ly, wh at c ome s to m i nd i s the Icelandic horse. Skagafjörður is an important breeding place for this beautiful, humble servant that enabled people to survive throughout the centuries in harsh conditions. These two distinctive features frame the different possibilities Skagafjörður has to offer; an area of natural wonders and an abundance of cultural and recreational activities.
An important historical area
Skagafjörður is a municipality in the North of Iceland which covers the area from most of the peninsulas creating the fjord itself to the broad valley that bears the name of the fjord and goes all the way to
78
the highlands. Thus, it is an area of great natural variety with steep mountains, fertile inlands and a varied coastal environment. The biggest town the area of Skagafjörður is Sauðakrókur after which come the village of Hofsós and other smaller villages. Skagafjörður could also be said to be the centre of a historic circle ranging from Blönduós, west of Skagafjörður to Siglufjörður in the north and Akureyri in the east. Hólar í Hjaltadal, the old bishopric of the North, in fact used to be the most important in the North. Many who served as bishops of the North are arguably some of Iceland’s most important figures.
Sites of Interest
The battle of Örlygsstaðir, the biggest battle in the history of Iceland, also took place in Skagafjörður, when the great families in the age of Sturlungs fought. Historic facts such as these can be learned in Skagafjörður through various museums and places of historic importance. For example, the turf farmhouse at Glaumbær shows clearly how life used to be in rural Iceland; the
www.icelandictimes.com
Minjahúsið museum in Sauðarkrókur is unique for showing how artisans’ workshops used to be and the Icelandic Emigration Centre in Hofsós focuses on the mass emigration from Iceland to North-America in the 19th century.
The Bad need Somewhere to Be
This cliff in Skagafjörður certainly has a mystic character to it. According to old folktales, the cliff itself is an old female troll who turned to stone at daybreak while traversing the fjord, as trolls can’t handle sunlight. Grettir, in the famous Icelandic saga bearing his name, was an extremely strong but ill-tempered man, who ended his days in Drangey as an outlaw. One of the historic bishops at Hólar, Guðmundur the Good decided he was going to bless all of Iceland by ridding the land of vile beings. But once, as he hung from the cliffs of Drangey, to expedite this work, the story says that a big hand came out of the cliff and grabbed him. He heard a voice say, “the bad ones need somewhere to be.” The bishop decided not to bless Drangey.
This story does not frighten the locals, Drangey while swimming in the warm who go every Spring to collect eggs and birds water of the pool. on the cliffs of Drangey. Skagafjörður has, in total, seven pools across the area as well as various hot springs An inspiring way to enjoy water to bathe in, the most famous one being By Hofsós, you can find a great way to enjoy Grettislaug at Reykir. the view of Drangey. The new swimming pool is a masterpiece of design. Once you Being in Nature among Horses and Birds are in the pool you get the impression Skagafjörður is a fitting place to enjoy that you are swimming to the sea and to horses. Not only do the various horse-riding companies in the area provide a variety of trips but you can also visit a breeding farm, see horse shows and even experience a horse corral if you are in Skagafjörður at the right time of year! Skagafjörður is a nice area to explore on horseback. There are many uninhabited places not too far from town providing you with the tranquility to enjoy nature. Whether you like a short trip, or a multiday excursion to the highlands, you will be able to experience it here. There are various other ways to enjoy the nature of Skagafjörður; watching and listening to the rich birdlife, pumping some adrenaline in your body by river rafting in
www.icelandictimes.com
the glacial rivers, hike the various trails in the area or sail on a boat to Drangey and Málmey. At the end of a day, you can visit one of the many restaurants in the area serving high-quality food made under the Food Chest concept, which encourages the eating of local produce. Whether you are travelling with the whole family, by yourself or with your partner or friends, Skagafjörður has something for everybody! –
NNH
Skagafjörður Skagfirðingabraut 21 • 550 Sauðárkrókur
+354 455 6000
skagafjordur@skagafjordur.is www.skagafjordur.is
79
To u r i s m , C u lt u r e
and
Business
I s s u e 19 • 2013
The
Northern
Playground Akureyri,theBasetoReachAlltheNorthernSightsandHighlights
80
www.icelandictimes.com
T
he dozen inhabitants in 1786, clinging to the side of Iceland’s longest fjord, Eyjafjörður, probably never imagined their brave struggle would ultimately produce a town of 18,000 people with all the services of a major city. A kureyri is not as big as any of the world’s cities but it provides all the features and services expected of a big city in a very compact form, so that everything is within a short distance. Take, for instance, winter activities like skiing. The family-friendly slopes are under 10 minutes from the airport and the hotels. Likewise the horseriding tours, boat trips, bird watching, shopping—to name a few— are all so close, you can almost touch them. You name it, it’s close-by. The weather, with its combination of crisp, dry snow and Northern Lights—at the peak of their cycle this winter—makes a holiday here memorable.
need them and relax in the club house afterwards.
See the Sights
Akureyri is also a service base for many of the most important tourist destinations in North Iceland. From here, you can visit Mývatn, Dettifoss—the most powerful waterfall in Europe, the islands of Hrisey, with its powerful hea ling energ y and Grímsey, straddling the Arctic Circle, see volcanos and boiling mud pools and, in fact, reach all the pearls of the north in under 2 hours.
Cultural Centre of the North
When it comes to culture, Akureyri has it all: museums, art galleries, international exhibitions, conference facilities, music concerts of all genres, opera, theatres and cinemas showing the latest films. It has well over 20 restaurants, covering both Icelandic and international cuisine, with top chefs who create their own innovative cuisine. Cafés, each with their individual speciality abound, while local microbreweries and farms offering food tasting are a fascinating addition to the food scene. For groups and incentive tours, Akureyri offers such a wide range of activities, events and opportunities, maximising the time available. There are a multitude of tours covering every interest from flying to caving, from fishing to the Hidden People, walking to whale-watching.
Easy Access
Flights from both Keflavik international and Reykjavik airports take just 40 min. Scheduled buses leave from Reykjavik Bus Station. There are numerous tours, some of which go through the highlands during summer months. The bus service is free in town. Nat u ra l ly, e ver y c om mon form of Sports of all kinds transport is available: car, bike, boat, Sport activities are very popular in the horse, ATV, plane rentals. Every type of North and many sports are represented in accommodation is also on hand, from this dynamic community. 4-star hotels to camp sites. The geothermally–heated swimming pools, with their hot pots and jaccuzzi are Akureyri has it all and an outgoing open—and very popular—all year round. friendly welcome, too. – ASF The Arctic Open Golf championship is played on the most northerly 18-hole Akureyrarstofa course in the world, just outside the city Strandgata 12 • 600 Akureyri +354 450 1050 under snow–covered mountains and the akureyrarstofa@akureyri.is www.visitakureyri.is midnight sun. You can hire clubs if you
www.icelandictimes.com
81
To u r i s m , C u lt u r e
and
Business
I s s u e 19 • 2013
Ambassador to the Whales
See the whales from Akureyri’s specialised whale watching ship
T
his is the first year of scheduled tours from Akureyri with the ‘Ambassador’ whale-watching ship. The beautiful town of Akureyri itself, full of old historic houses, is simply captivating.
The Whales’ home
The North of Iceland is home to all the species of whales found around the country. Eyja f jörður, pa rticu la rly, is home to Humpback Whales—gigantic animals who love singing and slapping their fins and tails! It is beautiful to watch these magnificent creatures jump up out of t he ocea n!
Additionally, Minke Whales, Dolphins, and weather by the mountains ensures that it’s Harbour Porpoises and Blue Whales are calmer than the open sea. seen in the fjord.
Sailing with the ‘Ambassador’
The name ‘Ambassador’ refers to its function of connecting whales and humans and it has great viewing facilities to do that. It sails three times a day during summer from Akureyri’s central harbour, next to the Hof cultural house. Tours take from three to four hours, during which you get guidance about the nature of the whales, the sea, the fjord, the mountains—the whole eco-system! Being protected from winds
Eat Vegan in Eyjafjörður
The sailing schedule
Morning tours leave at 8.30, afternoon tours at 13.00—and an evening tour at 20.30, giving you the opportunity to watch the whales and enjoy the bright and beautiful colours of northern evening sun simultaneously! –
NNH/ASF
Ambassador Torfunesbryggja • 600 Akureyri
+354 462 6800 info@ambassador.is www.ambassador.is
hours. Although, if you are there at lunch or dinner time, it makes sense to relax and let the Silva is the only vegan restaurant outside Reykjavik spectacular tranquil views of the valley and fjord he beautiful valley that extends from snacks—cakes, cookies and gluten-free bread, bring peace to your spirit. A kureyri into the countr yside is all without wheat, sugar, dairy or yeast. watered by clear mountain streams and so This is just what a health-conscious family is Learn to make it raw unpolluted, the rich farming land is ideal for looking for: healthy food at a reasonable price. Kristín also runs a series of short courses, growing organic vegetables. So if you’re travelling around Iceland, Silva is just teaching how to create raw food meals yourself. – ASF Just outside Hrafnagil, in the old school 12 km from Akureyri. There is easy access for house on the hill, a new vegan and raw food disabled guests and a children’s play area, too. Silva restaurant has opened. All the food is made They make take-away meals and can have Syðra Laugaland Efra • 601 Eyjafjarðarsveit +354 851 1360 fresh there from Icelandic vegetables. Besides them ready for you if you give them a call before silva@silva.is www.silva.is full meals, they make delicious smoothies and leaving town—even outside normal opening
T
82
www.icelandictimes.com
Where Fitness Folk Eat
Besti bitinn’s fresh food is a hit with health-loving people
C
lose to Akureyri’s walking street and the harbour is a good location for people who want to get their meal quickly but eat something fresh and healthy. Besti bitinn is well known for its fish and chips, so I decided to try, too. It surpassed what I’d heard about it - fresh, firm but soft and full of f lavour. My partner tried the chicken salad and I saw why so many people in the health and fitness community in Akureyri come to eat here.
Healthy food and prices don’t compete
O f c ou r s e , s ome p e ople a r e not s o concerned about their hea lth but just w a nt t o e a t s o m e t h i n g t h a t t a s t e s good and isn’t expensive, so the usual carbonated drinks are also available with their meals. Whether they realise it or not, though, they are eating f ish fresh from the boats that just landed or the chicken that’s never been frozen or lost its food value in the cooking.
The nice thing about this restaurant is that you can sit in a friendly, comfortable at mosphere a nd m i x a nd match t he ingred ient s to you r ow n t a ste when ordering. We liked that and will be joining the regulars whenever we’re in Akureyri. –
ASF
Besti Bitinn Skipagata 2 • 600 Akureyri
+354 578 6400
fiskistjarnan@internet.is on Facebook
prepared and cooked to order on the spot to get the most flavour.
Eat What You Like for Less
Both Krua Siam and Krua Thai are known for their reasonable prices. In addition, Krua Siam offers a full five course lunch buffet every day between 11:30 and 13:30. Here, you can eat all you like for the same good price. With a large range of dishes to choose from, you can eat like a Thai—taking a piece from a number of different dishes. It’s a great way to eat as a family or a group of friends.
The North Eats Thai
Drinks to go with the meal
A number of wines and spirits go well with Thai food, so Krua Siam has a bar and The Popular Krua Siam Restaurant Feeds Folk in Akureyri stocks alcoholic beverages—along with hat inspired experienced Thai cooks Thai, it is easy to find Krua Siam opposite juices and soft drinks. and kitchen assistants to leave the the famous Hof concert hall by the harbour. exotic lands of South East Asia to venture to Catering to the Need the Land of the Vikings, I cannot imagine. Set Apart The restaurant also provides Take Away and But I’m very glad they did. After opening Besides the experienced Thai staff, what sets Home Delivery options, but to get the most the Reykjavik food scene to their unique these restaurants apart is that all the spices, flavour, eat it right away. – ASF blend of Thai ingredients and Icelandic rice and noodles that are uniquely Thai are meats and vegetables, the intrepid cooks brought in directly from Thailand. However, Krua Siam continued north to Akureyri. the meat and vegetables are pure Icelandic Strandgötu 13 • 600 Akureyri +354 466 3800 Established in 2007 and now under the and this is what contributes to the delicious kruasiam@kruasiam.is www.kruasiam.is same management as Reykjavik ’s Krua flavour in every meal. Each meal is freshly
W
www.icelandictimes.com
83
To u r i s m , C u lt u r e
and
Business
I s s u e 19 • 2013
The Country Experience
A Family-friendly stay at Hrafnagil Farm Guesthouse
Y
ou’ll find the village of Hrafnagil just 12 km south of Akureyri in Eyjafjörður. The valley is protected on either side by steep mountains and provides rich farmland and lovely views all the way to the Arctic Sea.
A farm for families
You feel you’re in t he dept hs of t he countryside. It’s a beautiful place to stay and the guesthouse has the added benefit of being part of a working farm, so you’ll see horses outside the windows, sheep on the
hills above, chickens in the yard and cows in the fields across the road, not to mention the cat and dogs. It’s a great opportunity for children to learn about and enjoy farm life. There are cots, changing tables and safety gates in the house for the babies.
A traveller’s rest
The guesthouse is warm and spacious with comfortable beds and a delicious breakfast every morning. The 5 rooms are spacious and the largest bedroom, with 4 beds has
A Guesthouse in the Country The Farm at Ytra Laugaland offers an invigorating stay
I
n the unspoiled valley of Eyjafjörður, some 12 km from Akureyri, the Ytra Laugaland farm has been opening its doors to families and independent travellers for the last five years. The house has large, comfortable
84
rooms: one suite for a family and three twin bedrooms. One of the bathrooms has a jacuzzi—so relaxing after a long day out. The farm was built in 1927 and is beautifully decorated. Owners Óttar and
www.icelandictimes.com
plenty of room for families. There is a large lounge where you can read, write or watch the TV or surf the Internet. Travel lers of a l l a ges we met here spoke very highly of their stay and of the thought and care that went into making them both welcome and comfortable. It’s a very convenient place to base from when travelling the North. –
ASF
Gistihúsið Hrafnagili Hrafnagil • 601 Akureyri
+354 463 1197 hrafnagil@gmail.com www.hrafnagil.is
Vilborg have created a cosy, family-friendly home. The beds have health mattresses for a comfortable sleep and breakfasts are wholesome and healthy for a good start to the day. There are facilities for self-catering and there is a health-food restaurant just a minute’s drive away. Also close by is the swimming pool, less than 5 min away. A TV lounge and Internet access provide access to the outside world, should you need it while the farm is in a most beautiful valley, with a view clear up the fjord to the Arctic Sea. –
ASF
Gistiheimili Vilborgar Ytra-Laugaland • 601 Akureyri
+354 463 1472 hrisey@hrisey.net www.hrisey.net
Guarded by a Firey Dragon The Otherworldly Landscape of Vopnafjörður
I
magine discovering a new land in the north in medieval days where you are met by a mighty flying dragon, protecting it. This was the sight that greeted a Nordic seafarer, according to Heimskringla, an Old Norse kings’ saga. To d ay, Vopn a f jörð u r s t a nd s a s a spectacular example of the grand, harsh, but beautiful, Icelandic landscape. It was first settled by Viking seafarers 1100 years ago. The name, meaning, ‘Weapon Fjord’ comes from a settler called Eyvindur vopni. It also boasts of its own Saga, Vopnfirðinga saga, written around a dispute between local chieftains. The dragon is Vopnafjörður’s symbol and one of the four ‘landvættir’ – guardians of Iceland pictured on Iceland’s coat of arms. The wide sandy coastline hosts a myriad of marine life forms and the magnificent
cliffs and rocky islets of Vopnafjörður are superb. They culminate in natural wonders such as Skjólfjörur, accessible by driving the old highway east of the village, before it becomes the high pass of Hellisheiði between Fljótsdalshérað and Vopnafjörður and provides a spectacular view. Vopnafjörður village, picturesque with its colourful old houses surrounded by rocky cliffs and islets, lies on the small Kolbeinstangi peninsula. It was one of Iceland’s major commercial harbours in the 18 th and 19 th centuries. In the last half century, the fishing industry grew considerably and is the largest business sector in the area today.
harbour. It remembers the thousands of emigrants who fled the region to America in the late 19 th and early 20 th centuries following the devastating Askja volcanic eruption of 1875. It also commemorates brothers Jón Múli Árnason and Jónas Árnason, who wrote several jazzy musicals in the fifties and sixties, which have become classics of Icelandic popular culture. The historical Bustarfell farm is a regional museum where history comes alive through storytelling and workshops each summer. The same family lived here in a large turf farmhouse from 1532 until 1966. Only a few such farmhouses are preserved today.
A Literary inspiration
One of Iceland’s most renowned novels, ‘Independent People’, by the Nobel Laureate Halldór Laxness, was greatly inf luenced by the struggle of poor farmers in the Remembering the past countryside surrounding Vopnafjörður. The Kaupvangur museum is located in The area is the childhood home of another a large old wooden house down by the great f igure of 20 t h centur y Icelandic literature, Gunnar Gunnarsson, who grew up on Ljótsstaðir. This famous writer wrote about the country life of Iceland, influenced by the people, nature and culture of Vopnafjörður. Two great salmon rivers f low through the untouched landscape surrounding Vopnaf jörður Bay. A cosy geothermal swimming pool with a nice view over the river sits on the banks of the Selá. –
NNH/ASF
Vopnafjarðarhreppur Hamrahlíð 15 • 690 Vopnafjörður
+354 473 1300
skrifstofa@vopnafjardarhreppur.is www.vopnafjardarhreppur.is
www.icelandictimes.com
85
To u r i s m , C u lt u r e
and
Business
I s s u e 21 • 2014
Iceland’s Progressive Art Nýló is a centre for both Icelandic and International artists’ work T
he Living Art Museum (Nýló) is a nonprofit, artist-run space and a museum, founded in 1978 by 30 artists. The main purpose of founding a new contemporary art museum in Reykjavik at the time was to establish and introduce contemporary art within the local cultural scene. Today the members of the Association of Nýló include 350 local and international individuals, mostly artists. Since its establishment, its members have donated artworks to Nýló and today, the collection includes around 2000 works.
Nýló has f unctioned as a forum of possibilities for both art and reflections on society. The museum is an important platform for research, cross-disciplinary collaboration with institutions and individuals, critical d i s c ou r s e on c ontemp or a r y a r t a nd presentation in the form of exhibitions, events, publication and talks. Every year the board of Nýló aims to encourage and support emerging artists and progressive practice in the field of visual art by hosting 6 –7 exhibitions
A Changing of the Seasons Welcome to the enticing and inviting Café Haiti
I
n Spring, when the weather starts steadily warming up, Café Haiti serves as one of those cosy, unpretentious places where you can pop in for a snack and enjoy an excellent cup of coffee from beans roasted every morning right on the premises. Here you can start your day early with a hot latte or cappuccino, along with a freshly
14
baked croissant or two, for this is one of the few places in the downtown area that opens for breakfast at 7 am and doesn’t close until 11 pm. There is an enticing array of home baked cakes and pastries should you feel the inclination for a little something sweet. The laid back atmosphere is also a favourite with locals for lunch—quiche, fish and
www.icelandictimes.com
and projects in Iceland and collaborating with other art venues and organizations abroad. Every other year a new board is elected together with a director of the board (elected annually). The board of 20142015 consists of Þorgerður Ólafsdóttir, Director, Eva Ísleifsdóttir, Collection Manager, Margrét Áskelsdóttir, Ragnheiður Gestsdóttir and Rakel McMahon. The alternate board members are as following; Gunnhildur Hauksdóttir, Logi Bjarnason and Ragnheiður Káradóttir. The museum will move early June 2014. The last exhibition in Nýló at its current location at Skúlagata 28 is a retrospect of the life and work of Hreinn Friðfinnsson, one of Iceland’s most noted artists. The exhibition is open between the 5th April–5th June. Opening hours are Tuesday– Sunday 12 noon–5 pm.
Nýlistasafn Skúlagata 28, 101 Reykjavík
+354 551 4350 nylo@nylo.is www.nylo.is
vegetable soups served with freshly baked bread are offered. Try the smoked salmon on toast, or the always fresh ‘catch of the day’, fished right from the waters of Faxaflói Bay. A steaming bowl of ‘plokkfiskur’, a traditionally Icelandic fish stew, is just the thing to warm you after an afternoon of whale watching at the Old Harbour. Café Haiti is great place to do some ‘people watching’, for it’s as popular with tourists as it is with Icelanders. You might even spot a well known Icelandic celebrity or two while – EMV you’re at it. Enjoy!
Café Haiti Geirsgata 7a • 101 Reykjavík
+354 588 8484 kaffi@cafe-haiti.com www.cafe-haiti.com
Leather Designer
Ladies handbags, earrings and necklaces
Q
uality Icelandic design and leather handcraft is much sought after. “My first leather design was a handbag painted with colourful art work and patterns,” says Guðrún Stefánsdóttir, a suc c e s sf u l i ndependent a rc h itec t who found a second career in creative leather designs. Guðrún designs leather handbags and now she’s added necklaces and earrings to her Ark Art accessory collection. “I wanted to use the leather cut-of fs for something useful, when I came up with the idea to use them to ma ke jeweller y— ea rrings a nd necklaces.” Guðrún’s Ark Art leather jewellery is recognisable by her use of thin leather rings or squares and use of colours. It is a sophisticated yet simple design, skilfully
using geometric shapes and colours. Guðrún graduated from the Royal School of Architecture in Denmark in 1986. After working at an architect’s office, she started her own business. “I’ve worked on some amazing projects, ranging from large buildings to single family homes. My favourite projects are those where I design everything from A-Z for private homes. Those projects would typically involve the house and interior design, the landscaping around the house and the furniture inside.” The Ark Art collection is available at the National Art Gallery, Snorrastofa in Reykholt and directly from Guðrún. More information can be found on Facebook: Ark.art leather design. –
NHH
Arkart Dragháls 10 • 110 Reykjavík
+354 551 5533 arkgunna@simnet.is www.arkart.is
www.icelandictimes.com
15
To u r i s m , C u lt u r e
and
Business
I s s u e 19 • 2013
Opið
–
### ###
131
www.icelandictimes.com
##
Open
–
##
### ###
www.icelandictimes.com
132
To u r i s m , C u lt u r e
and
Business
I s s u e 19 • 2013
Open
–
### ###
133
www.icelandictimes.com
##
Open
–
##
### ###
www.icelandictimes.com
134
To u r i s m , C u lt u r e
and
Business
I s s u e 19 • 2013
Open
–
### ###
135
www.icelandictimes.com
##
Open
–
##
### ###
www.icelandictimes.com
136
To u r i s m , C u lt u r e
and
Business
I s s u e 19 • 2013
Open
–
### ###
137
www.icelandictimes.com
##
Open
–
##
### ###
www.icelandictimes.com
138
To u r i s m , C u lt u r e
and
Business
I s s u e 21 • 2014
Segways and Bicycles in the City Iceland’s premier bicycle and
R
eykjavik Bike Tours specialises in city tours by bicycle and day tours from the capital. Started in 2009, the company was the first to specialise in bicycle tours in the country. A city tour and private tours are on offer all year but in summer the company runs six scheduled tours.
Insider’s perspective
“The bicycle takes us quickly, comfortably and safely between points of interest,” says Stefan, the owner of Reykjavik Bike Tours. “The added value we give our guests, apart from the ride itself, of course, is the local perspective. We like telling the stories that bring a seemingly uninteresting building or a place to life. I like to describe our tours as ‘infotainment’ because we present history and facts as accurately as we can but at the same time we never forget that
24
Biggest fleet of bicycles
Reykjavik Bike Tours rents bicycles as well. “We’ve got city bikes, mountain bikes, road Segway tour company bikes and touring bikes as well as tandems and most of our guests are on a holiday and bicycles with trailers for children. We also have a like to be entertained.” couple of electric bikes for those who like a bit of assistance when going up the hill or against the Regular complaints wind. Basically we try to cater to different cyclists “We regularly get complaints,” Stefan and provide the best service we possibly can.” says, with a smile. “People who join our tours on their third or fourth day in the Segways in the city cit y tell us with regret they’d wished The fun and popular Segway self-balancing they’d done the tour sooner because the personal transporters came to Reykjavik in commentary unlocks countless city secrets 2013. “Everyone enjoys riding the Segway,” known only to the locals. Of course, we Stefan says convincingly. “The fun starts take this as a compliment. From the start as soon as people step onto the Segway. we’ve been getting excellent reviews. We The sense of self-accomplishment and also humbly thank our guests who have spent learning about the city at the same time is some of their valuable time to tell other the best possible combination.” – SHV travellers how much they enjoyed their experience with us. We certainly do not Reykjavik Bike Tours take positive reviews for granted but they Ægisgarður 7 • 101 Reykjavík +354 694 8956 certainly encourage us to maintain our bike@icelandbike.com www.icelandbike.com good reputation every day.”
www.icelandictimes.com
To u r i s m , C u lt u r e
and
Business
I s s u e 21 • 2014
The
Northern
Playground
Akureyri,theBasefromwhichtoReachAlltheNorthernSightsandHighlights
54
www.icelandictimes.com
T
he dozen inhabitants in 1786, clinging to the side of Eyjafjörður, Iceland’s longest fjord, probably never imagined their brave struggle would ultimately result in a town of 18,000 people with all the services of a major city. A kureyri is not as big as any of the world’s cities but it provides all the features and services expected of a big city in a very compact form, so that everything is available within a short distance. Take, for instance, winter activities like skiing. The family-friendly slopes are under 10 minutes from the airport and the hotels. Likewise the horseriding tours, boat trips, bird watching, shopping—to name a few— are all so close, you can almost touch them. You name it, it’s close-by. The weather, with its combination of crisp, dry snow and Northern Lights—at the peak of their cycle this winter—makes a holiday here memorable.
you need them and relax in the club house afterwards.
See the Sights
Akureyri is also a service base for many of the most important tourist destinations in North Iceland. From here, you can visit Mývatn, Dettifoss—the most powerful waterfall in Europe, the island of Hrísey, with its powerful hea ling energ y and Grímsey, straddling the Arctic Circle, see volcanos and boiling mud pools and, in fact, reach all the pearls of the north in under 2 hours.
Cultural Centre of the North
When it comes to culture, Akureyri has it all: museums, art galleries, international exhibitions, conference facilities, music concerts of all genres, opera, theatres and cinemas showing the latest films. It has well over 20 restaurants, covering both Icelandic and international cuisine, with top chefs who create their own innovative cuisine. Cafés, each with their individual speciality abound, while local microbreweries and farms offering food tasting are a fascinating addition to the food scene. For groups and incentive tours, Akureyri offers such a wide range of activities, events and opportunities, it maximises the time available. There are a multitude of tours covering every interest from flying to caving, from fishing to the Hidden People, walking to whale-watching.
Easy Access
Flights from both Keflavik international and Reykjavik airports take just 40 min. Scheduled buses leave from Reykjavik Bus Station. There are numerous tours, some of which go through the highlands during summer months. The bus service is free in town. Nat u ra l ly, e ver y c om mon form of Sports of all kinds transport is available: car, bike, boat, Sport activities are very popular in the horse, ATV, plane rentals. Every type of North and many sports are represented in accommodation is also on hand, from this dynamic community. 4-star hotels to camp sites. The geothermally–heated swimming pools, with their hot pots and jaccuzzi are Akureyri has it all and an outgoing open—and very popular—all year round. friendly welcome, too. – ASF The Arctic Open Golf championship is played on the most northerly 18-hole Akureyrarstofa course in the world, just outside the city Strandgata 12 • 600 Akureyri +354 450 1050 under both snow–covered mountains and akureyrarstofa@akureyri.is www.visitakureyri.is the midnight sun. You can hire clubs if
www.icelandictimes.com
55
To u r i s m , C u lt u r e
and
Business
I s s u e 21 • 2014
All’s Quiet on the Katla Front The Volcano felt by all in the Northern Hemisphere is at peace
K
atla volcano is the fourth most active volcanic system in Iceland, after Grímsvötn, Bárðarbunga and Hekla, but as far as the volume of magma ejected is concerned, Katla has been Iceland’s top producer throughout history.
Awesome Power - Devastating Effect
The volcano itself, located under the Mýrdalsjökull ice cap, has averaged two eruptions per centur y. The last major eruption occurred in 1918 and resulted in the southern coastline being extended by a further 5km due to the enormous outflow of volcanic material and water produced by the eruption, also known as ‘jökulhlaups’ or glacial floods.
25km long chain found along the Laki fissure and are part of the Katla volcano system. During the course of an eight month period between 1783 and 1784, the fissure opened up and poured forth about 14 cubic kilometres of lava. This, along with the eruption of Grimsvötn from 1783–1785 resulted in tons upon tons of sulphur dioxide poisoning the air, which led to the death of an estimated 20–25% of the Icelandic population and 50% of livestock, and was responsible for the death of thousands across Europe. It is e st imated t hat t he output of poisonous gases was equivalent to a 1991 Mount Pinatabo eruption every three days. The Laki Craters The resulting crop failures and starvation L oc ated bet ween Mý rd a lsjöku l l a nd in France is thought to have influenced one Vatnajökull glaciers, the Laki Craters are a of the most famous insurrections of the poor in history—the French Revolution of 1789 –1799. The glacial f lood that followed Katla’s 1755 eruption has been compared to the average combined discharge of the Amazon, Mississippi, Nile and the Yangtze rivers, or about 266,000m3/s (9.4 million cu ft/sec). Katla has erupted 21 times since the 9th century but appears to be taking a rather long siesta and is not showing any signs of significant reawakening at present. From time to time there are small earthquake swarms under ice cap that produce small glacial outbursts, but these do not necessarily mean that a violent eruption is imminent.
The Freezing of America
The effects of the eruption were felt as far away as the United States, which recorded its longest and coldest winter in New England in 1784. The sub-zero temperatures delayed congressmen on their way to Annapolis, Ma r yla nd to vote for t he Tre at y of Paris which would ultimately end the Revolutionary War. The Mississippi Delta reportedly froze in New Orleans and ice was found in the Gulf of Mexico.
86
www.icelandictimes.com
Visit our webstore
icewear.is Enjoy the easy shopping and quick deliveries
BE WARM BE WELL ICEWEAR SHOPS
Þingholtsstræti 2-4 » 101 Reykjavík » Tel.: +354 555 7411 Fákafen 9 » 108 Reykjavík » Tel.: +354 555 7412 Austurvegur 20 » 870 Vík í Mýrdal » Tel.: +354 555 7415
Icelandic design since 1972
To u r i s m , C u lt u r e
and
Business
I s s u e 19 • 2013
Common Shelduck, drake
Black Guillemot
Sanderling in summer plumage
Red-throated Divers displaying Northern Shoveler, pair
A Birdwatcher’s
paradise Djúpivogur to Lón, a top site for birds in South East Iceland
T
he mu n icipa l it y of Djúpivog u r ( B er u f jörðu r, Á l f t a f jörðu r, Hamarsfjörður and Papey island), together with Lón and the Þvottárskriður and Hvalsnesskriður scree slopes, is one of the top five birding sites in Iceland. The largest and most diverse concentrations of birds occur on eutrophic coastal lakes, mudflats, and the shallow waters, some of which hold internationally important numbers of birds, as well as the bird cliffs on the deserted island Papey, six km offshore from Djúpivogur. The coastal lowlands are sparsely populated by sheep farmers, and most of the inhabitants live in a small fishing village, Djúpivogur.
123
The area around Djúpivogur is unique and in the recent years, the municipality has developed facilities for birdwatchers. Information boards, birdwatching hides and a website are some of things being done to help visiting birdwatchers get the most out of their visit. The Common Shelduck, a recent colonist in Iceland, has become established here in recent years. Other breeders include Horned Grebe, Red-throated Diver, Northern Shoveler, Northern Pintail, Long-tailed Duck and Rock Dove. During the migration season birds like Red K not, Sa nderling a nd Ruddy Turnstone are common on the mudflats around Búlandsnes.
www.icelandictimes.com
In Berufjörður, west of Djúpivogur, Harlequin Duck can be found at the outlet of River Fossá in the bottom of the fjord and on other rivers in the area. Papey is easy to visit and there are regular boat trips out to the island in summer. The island is 2 km 2 and marshy, and is surrounded by a few smaller islands. The birdlife is dominated by seabirds. Large numbers of Atlantic Puffin (estimated 200,000 pairs), Brünnich’s Guillemot, Common Guillemot, Razorbill and Blacklegged Kittiwake breed here. The island also has wetlands which support a range of birds. A recent colonist is the European Shag and the European Storm-petrel has bred there.
To the south of Djúpivogur there are two shallow fjords which support a wide range of birds, Hamarsfjörður and Álftafjörður. They are important stopovers for birds like geese, Whooper Swans and waders. Up to 3,600 Black-tailed Godwits have been recorded in Álftafjörður in a single count and it is one of the main stopover sites for this species in Iceland. The fjords are important moulting sites for the Greylag Goose, and the Common Shelduck has started breeding here, as it has done in Djúpivogur. To the south of Álftafjörður, the road traverses a series of scree slopes which drop steeply to the sea, known as Þvottárskriður and Hvalsnesskriður. During the summer,
flocks of Common Scoter can be found on the sea here and Velvet Scoter, White-winged Scoter and Surf Scoter are regularly found in these f locks. Huge f locks of moulting Common Eider are also found here in late summer and species like Long-tailed Duck, Harlequin Duck and Black Guillemot feed in this nutrient-rich sea. Moving further west you come to the shallow fjord or brackish Lón lagoon which attracts the densest population of Whooper Swans in the world. This is one of the greatest wonders in Icelandic nature. Whooper Swans can be found here all year and at certain times of the year up to half the Icelandic population may be present here, approximately 10,000
www.icelandictimes.com
birds. The largest concentrations are during spring migration and during the late summer and autumn moult. Greylag Goose, Eurasian Wigeon and Common Eider are also common here. Reindeer are common in the area and can be seen all year, although most frequently in winter and spring. Common Seal are also widespread and breeds in Þvottáreyjar, but they are difficult to approach. Papey, Hamarsfjörður–Álftafjörður and Lón are all listed as Important Bird Areas (IBA) by BirdLife International. A useful website on birds and birdwatching in Djúpivogur is www.birds.is Text and photos Jóhann Óli Hilmarsson
124
S
ummer in the North is characterised by the midnight sun. You can play golf, go seal and whale watching, horse riding, hiking, swimming, fishing, river rafting, bird-watching, camping or simply enjoy the disparate forms of nature. The region wears a different coat in winter, when you can ride horses on the frozen lakes in Mývatn under the Northern Lights or ski the slopes just minutes from Akureyri town centre. Northern Iceland is probably Iceland’s most diverse region—in every sphere. Nature varies from the mystical area around Mývatn Lake, a birdwatching paradise, to the awesome horse-shoe canyon of Ásbyrgi, the thunderous waterfalls at Goðafoss and Dettifoss, Askja’s calderas and volcanos, or islands like Drangey, to name a few. The region is bursting with vibrant history, just waiting to be enjoyed. Museums are found in almost every town, with fascinating insights into fields such as the seals at Selasetur in Hvammstangi or the Whale Museum in Húsavík to the turf house of Glaumbær farm in Skagafjörður. Then Skagaströnd, home to the Museum of Prophecies is known as the country music capital of Iceland. In Hjaltadal valley in Skagafjörður is Hólar, formerly the episcopal see and site of the first printing press. Siglufjörður hosts the Folk Music and Herring museums. Blönduós has several museums, as does Akureyri, the largest town of the north, along with its art galleries and rich culture.
North Iceland Map © Ólafur Valsson
www.icelandictimes.com
Florent Gast
To u r i s m , C u lt u r e
and
Business
I s s u e 21 • 2014
on this popular theme comes with a thick chocolate crust and a large glass of fresh milk. They can all be enjoyed sitting at the comfortable seats and sturdy wooden tables of the coffee shop. The view is so extraordinary that visitors should be charged an entrance fee! Right outside the window, there is a tidal plain filled with birds at low tide and the second longest bridge in Iceland. Beyond the bridge one sees the impressive local mountains, snow-capped in winter. In the distance lie the Eiríksjökull and Langjökull glaciers.
Hot from the Oven Geiri’s Bakery fed Walter Mitty incognito
T
ravellers coming from Reykjavik spot the bakery from the Borgarnes bridge. In ‘The Secret Life of Wa lter Mitty’, Walter only saw it as Papa John’s, not realising the delicious Icelandic treats that actually await today’s visitors. What could have been in his mind?
Geiri is an affable man who takes pride in what he knows best, which is baking breads and pastries of all sorts. His personal favourites are the ‘love balls’, which are oil fried balls of pastry a little larger than a golf ball, and a cinnamon bun commonly called snúður in Icelandic. His special version
Geiri’s bakery is the perfect spot to stop for refreshments on your travels on the Ring Road.
–
SV
Geirabakarí Digranesgötu 6 310 Borgarnes
+354 437 2020
geirabak@internet.is www.facebook.com/geirabakari.ehf
Hótel Flatey
Lavaland
Handmade jewelry proudly made in Iceland. M elte d lava f rom Eyjaf jallajökull glacier is combined with silver to make simple, outstanding and unique jewelry.
Peace · Timelessness · Rest ( 555 7788 info@hotelflatey.is • www.hotelflatey.is
Nesvegur 17 • 350 Grundafjörður lavaland@lavaland.is
+354 777 0611 www.lavaland.is
Services & Accommodations: • • • • • •
Lodging Daily Breakfast Buffet Hot tub Communal Lounge & Grill Riding Lessons Guided Riding Tours with Pre Lesson
• •
• •
Guided Barn Tours Guided tours to local hot springs, caves, craters & waterfalls. Group Accommodations Special Events
www.stadarhus.is / stadarhus@gmail.com / +354 865 75 78
40
www.icelandictimes.com
Mávur
Fully equipped,fully furnished accommodation,located on the tip of Snæfellsnes Peninsula, with magnificent views to the sea and glacier. Keflavíkurgata 1 • 360 Hellissandur
mavur@mavur.is
+354 845 1780 www.mavur.is
WorldsofMagic &Mythology
TakeatripintootherworldsattheEdduveröldExhibitioninBorgarnes
N
orse mythology is one of the most Kristjánsdóttir from Borgarnes. “I love the fantastic legacies of the ancient Nordic Norse mythology,” says Erla, “The more heritage of which Iceland is an integral part. I read about it, the more I enjoy it. It is Edduveröld – Edda’s World – offers local and foreign visitors alike an accessible glimpse into this hitherto largely hidden heritage with a model and a professionally made audio guide available in a number of languages. Edduveröld in Borganes, and later at Reykholt which is about 30 minutes from Borgarnes.
Norse Mythology in Borgarnes
Several large size wall hangings with images from the Norse mythology make up this unique exhibition. The centre piece is a 25m2 model of the ancient world designed by artist and visionary Haukur Halldórsson, whose ambition is to build a life-size amusement park like the one seen in the model. Visitors can enjoy a 20 minute audio guide commentary in English, German, Norwegian or Icelandic for adults and in Icelandic for children. Edduveröld Exhibition is owned and operated by Erla Jónsdóttir and Guðrún
Homely restaurant and Coffee House
Edduveröld restaurant offers home-style lunch at an affordable price and an á-la-carte menu in the evening. “We make everything from scratch, so we know exactly what goes into our food and pastries,” says Erla. Mythology plays a big role in the naming of the dishes on the á-la-carte menu. There’s a lamb dish named Óðin and the fish catchof-the-day is called Miðgarðsfiskur. More information about the restaurant and its special lunch and dinner offers of the day is available on their website and Facebook. possible to view the stories in so many ways The restaurant is open from 10 in the and I guess everyone will picture it in his or morning until 11 at night every night her own way.” except Fridays and Saturdays when it stays The source of the Norse heathen mythology open until 1 am. – SV was recorded by Christian chieftain and scholar, Snorri Sturluson in the manuscript Edduveröld Snorra Edda in the 13th century. Sturluson Skúlagötu 17 • 310 Borgarnes +354 437 1455 happened to live at the Borg farm in edduverold@gmail.com www.edduverold.is Borgarfjörður, only 10 minute drive from the
www.icelandictimes.com
41
To u r i s m , C u lt u r e
92
and
Business
I s s u e 19 • 2013
www.icelandictimes.com
On Top of
the World
Atimidsoul’sapproachtothemightyVatnajökull
Bed down for the night in the heartoftheVatnajökulldistrict atVagnsstaðirYouthHostel,just 28 km east of the Jökulsárlón glacier lagoon. Sleeping bag accommodation,linenrental, awellequippedkitchen,dining and lounge areas, as well as 3 fully equipped cottages are offered.Thereisacampground with good sanitary facilities. The coast, just 1500 m from Vagnsstaðirprovidesnumerous possibilitiesforscenicwalksand birdwatching.Mapsofthearea are available at the hostel.
T
he weather report was looking good—a full day of sunshine ahead of me and temperatures above 10°C. I was on my way to a face to face encounter with the world’s 3rd largest glacier, the mighty Vatnajökull. This trip would mark a couple of firsts for me—my first time ever to set foot on a glacier, and my first time to travel by snowmobile. Needless to say I was really excited! I first met Kristján and Bjarney, of Glacier Jeeps, at our pre-arranged meeting place: the crossroads of Route No.1 and F985. This is the official meeting place for all Glacier Jeep summer tours. Glacier Jeeps has years of experience conducting jeep, snowmobile and hiking tours on the glacier since 1994. (Bjarney has been helping run the family business since she was 14 years old.) I parked my car and joined them in their sturdy 4WD which wound its way slowly ever upwards, following the undulating gravel road, which twisted and turned around hairpin bends, past waterfalls and deep canyons. My guides fill me in on the details of the landscape, pointing out how the glacier has crawled across the terrain, devastating everything in its path along with other interesting facts. Thirty minutes and 830 metres above sea level later, we arrive at Jöklasel, Iceland’s highest restaurant and owned by Glacier Jeeps. Jöklasel will serve as our base camp where we suit up with boots, warm overalls and helmets for the snowmobile excursion. Now it’s time to test drive the snowmobiles. I am a little hesitant at first and Kristján shows me the ropes. It looks easy enough but I decide that I prefer to let him drive over the glacier with me sitting safely behind him on this ‘skidoo for two’, at least until I get a better feel for it. ‘Off we go over the wild white yonder, climbing high into the sun’ to paraphrase an old song, with cloudless blue skies above us and the wind in our faces. Further along we
www.icelandictimes.com
stop and dismount, to take in the magnificent panoramic views over the glacier, the Atlantic Ocean and the town of Höfn far below in the distance. I felt like I was on top of the world and it was truly a cause for celebration! Kristján jokes that we cannot go onwards unless I drive. By now I am feeling a little more sure of myself and agree to give it a try. This time we are off to inspect a massive sheer rock face that rises straight up from the glacier at an elevation of 1200 metres. Finally, our one hour snowmobile adventure comes to an end and it is time to return to Jöklasel for a well deserved bite to eat and a hot drink. The view out the restaurant windows is as one would expect: magnificent. Glacier Jeeps also offers a hiking tour of the glacier that comes with all the equipment such as safety helmets, climbing irons and ice axe, instruction and a guide, included in the price. In case you just don’t think a strenuous hike or a thrilling snowmobile adventure is for you, then Glacier Jeeps offers an alternative to see the glacier in a comfortable, specially equipped 4WD and is available year round, weather permitting. Each tour is only 3 to 4 hours in total, giving you plenty of time to do other things with your day, even though once you are up there you may not want to come down. Although it’s best to book one day in advance, you can also just show up at the crossroads (F985) at either 9.30 am or 2.00 pm and join the tour from there. Vatnajökull Glacier Jeep tours: a must for your bucket list!
–
EMV
Glacier Jeeps Silfurbraut 15 • 780 Hornafjörður
+354 478 1000 glacierjeeps@simnet.is www.glacierjeeps.is
93
To u r i s m , C u lt u r e
and
Business
I s s u e 21 • 2014
Step Back in Time
A stay in Hótel Flatey is a trip into the life of the past
I
t seems that time stopped sometime about a century ago when you get off the Baldur ferry in Flatey. Life is slow here, far from the frenetic pace of most of the world’s cities. You feel a wave of peace and calm flow over your spirit as you walk past small coloured cottages, with the sheep grazing just outside their doors.
Life goes on without the Internet
Was there life before the Internet? Here, there is freedom from the tyranny of email and the web—and it’s a real relief. The world goes on and you really miss very little of it. It seems out of place to even have a laptop or mobile phone here.
A rich history and culture
The island of Flatey is the largest of the thousa nds of isla nds in t he mystica l Breiðafjörður Bay. It has been inhabited since the days of the Settlement. This small community has a rich history. It had it’s own church and doctor and it’s library held a treasury of old manuscripts. The library still stands today behind the church and has been an inspiration for authors, musicians and artists for centuries.
The Hótel with a History
Hótel Flatey started life as a ‘pakkhús’, or warehouse for the goods brought by large sailing ships that moored in the natural harbour. Today, it has 11 rooms, consisting of 1 large family room, 3 suites and 7 double rooms for the many visitors who want to spend a little more time on the island. The rooms retain the style of the past, complete with magazines from the early 1960s. It’s popular with photographers for the island’s rich birdlife and interesting landscapes and birds unafraid to approach the house. The restaurant has been used for many purposes: It began life as a warehouse, then a meeting house, a radio communication house, young people’s association, gym and theatre. It is still used for music concerts of every genre, especially on the weekends. Downstairs, there used to be a salt storage and a place for tanning sheep skins. Now converted to a bar—the Salt Bar, you’ll be reminded of your childhood with seats from the old school, the wooden vaulting box and benches from the old church. It’s full of character and good drinks.
A Summertime Special
The Hótel is open from the end of May and closes at the end of August. Nowadays, only the two farming families stay on the island throughout the year. They still raise the sheep to be seen wandering on the island. –
Hótel Flatey Flatey • 345 Flatey
+354 555 7788 info@Hótelflatey.is www.Hótelflatey.is
42
www.icelandictimes.com
ASF
Meet The Ocean’s Big Five Láki Tours takes you to meet the whales and more
A
nyone who has met them will agree that whales are amazing animals— especially seen close up. Whether they be orcas, humpbacks, minke or pilot whales— or dolphins, for that matter, meeting them is a real experience.
Basking in the Bay
Grundarfjörður and Ólafsvík lie on the mystical Breiðafjörður Bay—a fantasy world of countless islands, birds, fish, dolphins and whales. They are sighted almost daily through the year here. Recently, for instance, 100 pilot whales put on a show for visitors aboard Láki’s boat. Such a high rate of sighting a range of these maritime creatures makes this area tops for both experience and photo opportunities. The tour to the whales leaves from Ólafsvík.
Fins and Feathers
While the whales are very popular, the tour to the islands to see the birdlife and catch some fish is not to be missed. Sea angling is a lot of fun, if you haven’t tried it—and if you catch your dinner yourself you can certainly
guarantee its freshness. You’re in the perfect position to spot any whales or dolphins who There is wildlife in the area that you won’t are curious enough to see what you’re up to want to miss from killer whales and diving and if you’re taking their dinner! gannets to the fox and the white-tailed eagle. The photographers on this tour will have a feast of their own, with so many photo opportunities including, of course, the elusive little puffin. This 3–4 hour tour from Grundarfjörður on the Láki is an experience that many want to repeat. During the summer months, as the evening sun paints the sky red, the bay takes on a wholly different, romantic character. Sea angling in this setting is quite special, too.
Staying at the Hótel Framnes, situated right by the bay, is a very good choice, as it perfectly located for whale watching. It is a comfortable, homey hotel that provides very friendly and personal service. You can watch the sky changing over the bay in the evening as you relax in the hot pot. Its restaurant offers delicious freshly-caught fish on its Stay by the Bay gourmet menu. Tours on the Láki are not all that this area Open all year round, the hotel makes a has to offer. It is very popular for hikers, very good base for all your activities on and photographers, bird watchers and horse around the peninsula. – ASF riders, as all these activities are available— not to mention tours up onto the famous Láki Tours Snæfells glacier. No one has yet replicated Nesvegi 6 • 350 Grundarfjörður +354 438 6893 Jules Verne’s ‘Journey to the Centre of the framnes@hotelframnes.is www.lakitours.com Earth’ but the glacier is spectacular.
www.icelandictimes.com
43
To u r i s m , C u lt u r e
and
Business
I s s u e 21 • 2014
Superb Views and Food
Let Your Senses Imbibe the Spirit of Snæfellsnes at Langaholt
W
hether you rent a car, ride a bike or take the bus, spending a day in the middle of all the sites of interest on the Snæfellsnes peninsula will leave you both refreshed and inspired by the beauty of the nature and the tranquility with which it refreshes your spirit. Langaholt is a 20-room guesthouse with a campsite, golf course and restaurant, with probably the best view of the Snæfells mountain and glacier from the beach by the campsite. This is a great place to come for a weekend getaway, to spend a night or two enjoying the Icelandic countryside, eat a delicious meal or few and enjoy both the natural and historical sites of the area, which are no doubt very different from any other country you’ve visited! Speaking of meals, this is a restaurant with a top chef who wants you to enjoy a wholesome meal, not a fancy work of art but you will get good-sized portions that will fill that hole left from a busy day’s exploring. A number of the vegetables and spices are grown in their own gardens and you won’t find food that comes from outside the area. With its proximity to the sea, you would be surprised if seafood wasn’t on the menu. If you arrive for a good lunch, there is a choice of fish or vegetable soup, fish of the day and fish stew. The deserts are that delicious chocolate cake or waffles with whipped cream, caramel sauce and mint—something you must try! For dinner, starters include fish soup, vegetable soup, trout marinated in dill, or mussels - these as a starter or main course.
44
Other main courses could be fish stew, catfish with ginger and soya, cod steak fried in butter with rose pepper, basil and sun-dried tomatoes or lamb with red wine sauce. The menu varies depending on the availability of the fresh ingredients. For desert, there are pancakes or chocolate cake and there is a good selection of red or white wines. After a satisfying meal, you might be forgiven for booking a room and enjoying a good night’s sleep before exploring the area some more. over the mountain peaks while you play a round Take a walk outside and look at the glacier. of golf or set up your tent on the campsite. – ASF With your left ear, you’ll hear the relaxing sound of the surf, whilst in your right, the whispers of Langaholt Guesthouse waterfalls. Swirling around you are the many Ytri-Görðum • 356 Snæfellsbær +354 435 6789 varieties of birds like the arctic terns and the langaholt@langaholt.is www.langaholt.is different gulls. You can watch the clouds rolling
www.icelandictimes.com
Close to Mother Nature Experiencing silence in the caves at Vatnshellir
H
ow close can you get to Mother Nature? There is a placein the Snæfellsjökull National Park where it only takes a walk to visit probably the remotest subterranean cave system in Iceland.
Under the earth in safe company
Þor and Ægir, who run the company, a re bot h experienced mounta ineers, internationally trained cave specialists and members of the famous Icelandic Search and Rescue Team (SAR). Joining them and listening to their stories will make you forget where you actually just have set your foot. T he a nc ie nt Ic e l a nd ic c ave n a me s “Bárðarsstofa” (Bard's room), or Vættagangur (tunnel of the guardian spirits) will tickle your imagination, while you follow the guides through caves that, a few years ago, were only suitable for adventurous people. Today they are accessible by comfortable and solid stairs,
some stone, some steel. At the end of the walk you won’t believe that you are 35 metres under the earth’s surface. The total length of 200 metres consists of four cave sections, all safely prepared for walking and most parts additionally equipped with a guide rope.
Stories of history and silence
The walls might tell their stories. They’re made of lava formations that are more than 8,000 years old and have seen many people come and go. Modern visitors use professional equipment such as orientation ropes, helmets and torches, all provided by the guides at Vatnshellir. In the old days farmers would venture a dangerous climb down into the caves and collect the snow that was left from the winter. They would take it to the surface, using it for watering their sheep in the dry areas of Snæfellsjökull. And by the way, who was Barður – an outlaw, or maybe a troll?!
www.icelandictimes.com
H i s tor y's si lenc e u nder g rou nd i s incomparable to any silence you ever have witnessed. Try to feel mother earth's beating heart, and return to the surface and to daylight with a new idea of life. – DT
Vatnshellir Cave Gufuskálar • 360 Hellsisandur
+354 665 2818 vatnshellir@vatnshellir.is www.vatnshellir.is
45
I
t was for good reasons that the ‘Lonely Planet’ guide put this area in its list of the top 10 regions of the world to visit in 2011 and it won a ‘European Destination of Excellence’ (EDEN) award. A very sparsely populated region of Iceland, it is home to the Arctic fox, a dizzying variety of birdlife and a nature that is simply breathtaking. With precipitous cliffs that plunge almost vertically to the deep blue seas below, its multitude of beautiful fjords, its hot springs, pure streams and waterfalls, it’s a place for the nature-lover to be awed by its silence and tranquility, pierced only by the birds. Although a region easy to get to, once there, the isolation and untouched beauty is best explored by hiking, horse riding or kayaking. After a day enjoying this nature, it is always nice to relax in the hot springs, well known for their healing properties, dine in one of the numerous restaurants or cafés or to go fishing under the midnight sun or Northern Lights. The tiny, picturesque villages dotted around the fjords and the main town of Ísafjörður welcome visitors with campsites, guesthouses and hotels. There is much history here, too, worth investigating.
Westfjords Map © Ólafur Valsson
www.icelandictimes.com
the women’s dormitory along with the old herring factory and the hotel started there.” Most guests stay at Hótel Djúpavík in search of a nature experience. Many walk from one fjord to another but others use cars, kayaks or boats to get from place to place. Eva and Asbjörn provide guidance and advice on what to see and how to get Hótel Djúpavík, comfort and care at the edge of the world there along with comfort and rest after a ntouched nature and interesting way to live off the land and, when all the long day’s exploration. history are among the attractions of fjords were filled with herring, it became an Djúpavík at Strandir. In this remote part of important player in the hunt for the ‘silver of A Historical Exhibition Iceland, a special breed of people found a the sea’. Now it is a paradise for walkers and The Herring Factory is now the site of nature lovers who come to Hotel Djúpavík Djúpavík’s Historical Exhibition, where old photographs and texts lead viewers through from early spring till autumn. the life and times of people in this quiet cove Old factory and dormitory at the edge of the world. There are guided Hótel Djúpavík was established in 1985 tours provided daily at 10 am and 2pm. – JB when Eva Sig urbjörnsdót tir a nd her husband Ásbjörn Þorgilsson decided to Hótel Djúpavík cultivate guests rather than fish. “We had Djúpavík • 524 Árneshreppur +354 451 4037 planned to start a fish farm but were unable djupavik@snerpa.is www.djupavik.com to get a loan,” says Eva. “We had bought
A Nature Paradise U
West Tours’ clients can choose between many services. If you plan a day trip, a weekend or a longer trip in the Westfjords during summer or winter, West Tours will be happy to make an unforgettable experience happen.
Activities offered in 2014
ATV tours, bike rentals, bird watching, horseback riding, hikes and walks, various kayaking tours, local food tastings, RiBboat safaris, scooter rentals, sea angling, West Tours help you get the most from this amazing area sightseeing tours by car or boat, whale he Westfjords are an amazing peninsula in Hólmavík and in one of the villages in the watching, winter activities, Northern Lights characterized by steep, flat and also southern part of the region during summer. tours and many kinds of package services. peaked mountains between deep blue fjords, West Tours’ objective is the presentation, beautiful colourful beaches with inhabitants marketing and selling of all tourism-related We look forward to seeing you in who make travellers feel warmly welcome. services that are offered all over the peninsula. the Westfjords! West Tours, the most experienced travel West Tours is now owned by about 60 tourismagency and tour operator in the region, related companies and individuals that all, in West Tours celebrated its 20th anniversary in 2013. The some way, are connected to the Westfjords. Aðalstræti 7, 400 Ísafjörður +354 456 5111 West Tours office is based in Ísafjörður and Good co-operation between the companies is westtours@westtours.is www.westtours.is small booking offices are planned to operate seen as the key for a positive outcome.
Westfjords Wonders T
www.icelandictimes.com
47
To u r i s m , C u lt u r e
and
Business
I s s u e 21 • 2014
Birdwatchers’ Paradise
A wide variety of species nest around both the coastline of Reykhólahreppur and on the islands of Breidafjorður Bay. One of the most impressive are the majestic and elusive whitetailed eagles Reykhólahreppur:OverlookingBreiðafjörðurfromtheWestfjords (haliaeetus albicilla), that both nest in the area he Westfjords’ south coast holds one including a campsite, stores, museums, a unique and can be seen flying over Reykhólar. of Iceland’s hidden pearls. It’s a small, seaweed spa at Sjávarsmiðjan and a geothermal peaceful community with both natural swimming pool. The oldest summer hotel in Uncountable Islands phenomena and a grand landscape. Over Iceland, Hotel Bjarkalundur, provides quality Some say Breidafjörður Bay’s islands are a dozen fjords surround the island-dotted accommodation, dining and picturesque views. uncountable though cartographers estimate mystical Breidafjörður Bay with its beautiful Throughout history Reykhólar has been there are around 3,000. Eyjasigling at Reykhólar scenery, historical and poetic references and home to many of Iceland’s most prominent offers cruises to inhabited islands and those exceptional birdlife. chieftains and is frequently mentioned in the uninhabited except for the plethora of birds. – VAG Icelandic sagas. A Service Centre with a History Flatey Island is an important cultural site. A Reykhólahreppur Two and a half hour’s drive from Reykjavik on visit takes you back to the year 1900. Reminders Reykhólar • 380 Reykhólahreppur +354 434 7880 paved roads, Reykhólar village is the county’s of past times include a monastery built in 1172 skrifstofa@reykholar.is www.reykholar.is centre, providing a full range of services, and Iceland’s first library built in 1864.
Mystic History T
B1, B 2 , B 6 , B12 , C, E, K, pantothenic acid, folic acid, and niacin. They are an important supply of 60 trace elements and an excellent source of over 12 minerals, especially sodium, potassium, calcium, magnesium, phosphorus, iron, zinc and manganese. Other health benefits of seaweed baths include reduction of tension, muscle pain and fatigue, improved circulation, aiding Sjávarsmiðjan’s Seaweed therapy brings health and relief weight loss and cellulite control and easing f just the word ‘spa’ evokes feelings of Add to this the wonderful proven health menopausal discomforts. Those with asthma, comfort and well-being, you should benefits of seaweed gel and you will come out arthritis, insomnia, inflammation, dermatitis try the real thing—especially after a day’s rejuvenated, with your skin as soft as silk, and psoriasis find great improvements. – ASF hiking in the beautiful Reykhólar area, with strengthened and with improved elasticity. its birds, seals and whales—not to mention Seaweed detox if ies t he body by Sjávarsmiðjan the spectacular countryside. Soaking in stimulating the release of excess body fluids. Vesturbraut 2 • 380 Reykhólar +354 577 4800 Sjávarsmiðjan’s hot pots, with its natural Toxins are replaced by minerals. Scientists sjavarsmidjan@sjavarsmidjan.is www.sjavarsmidjan.is hot water, is both relaxing and invigorating. report that Seaweeds are rich in vitamins A1,
Soft as Silk Spa I
48
www.icelandictimes.com
Trolls and the Hidden People
The Western Fjords are a world apart, as reflected in the folk tale of the trolls who tried to dig this mountainous peninsula away from the mainland to establish a troll colony, free of men and their meddling. The landscape is a mixture of deep narrow fjords, high mountains and luscious green plants. Tall cliffs, teeming with birdlife rise sharply Hotel Bjarkalundur is at the entrance to the West Fjords from the deep blue sea. Enjoy a respite at Bjarkalundur before n d e r t h e m a j e s t i c Va ð a l f j ö l l A World Apart mountain, with its two distinctive Bjarkalundur is conveniently located to stop and after experiencing the amazing charm tops of volca nic ba sa lt plugs, nestles for a breather before entering Iceland’s most of the West Fjords and their people. You Bjarkalundur, the oldest country hotel in remote region, the West Fjords. The hotel has, will find it just off Road 60. – SS Iceland. Surrounded by an ancient birch throughout its history, welcomed guests and wood, the hotel’s immediate environment made them comfortable. In the past, dances Hótel Bjarkalundur is friendly and welcoming. This historic and were held during the summer months and Bjarkalundi • 380 Reykhólahreppi +354 434 7762 popular resting spot has served Icelanders still the Midsummer Night bonfire is an event bjarkalundur@bjarkalundur.is www.bjarkalundur.is and foreign guests for sixty-six years. enjoyed by local people and travellers alike.
Iceland’s Oldest Country Hotel
U
Peace with Nature and Birds Hótel Látrabjarg brings back the simple joys of life
O
n E u r o p e ’s w e s t e r n – m o s t t ip, Hóte l L át r a bja r g i s s e t a m id s t a photo g r a phe r’s a nd bi rd w atc he r’s paradise at the furthermost point of the Westfjords. It’s a rugged countryside here, with sheer cliffs rising high above the fjords. Although the road is paved from the ferry terminal to Patreksfjörður, the nearest town, from the end of the fjord,
a gravel road takes you to the beaches of Rauðasandur, the bird cliffs of Látrabjarg and the hotel. The route is studded with spectacular vistas, ending in a bay that, with its curved white sand beach and clear blue waters looks as if it belongs in a travel brochure for the Caribbean. The hotel has a commanding view of the fjord, where whales can sometimes be seen,
www.icelandictimes.com
and of the bay and valley below, where sheep graze peacefully. It’s an almost idyllic situation during the summer months, when it is open from 15th May to 20th September. It was originally built as a boarding school for local children. Although it can handle up to 40 guests, owners Karl and Sigríður like to maintain a close, homely atmosphere and therefore do not take groups during the high season. This has made it popular with individuals who appreciate its simple style, delicious meals and tranquil surroundings, with their constantly changing colours. –
ASF
Hótel Látrabjarg Fagrihvammur • 451 Patreksfirði
+354 456 1500 info@latrabjarg.com www.latrabjarg.com
49
To u r i s m , C u lt u r e
and
Business
I s s u e 21 • 2014
The House that Disappeared The Eldheimar Volcano Museum on the Westman Islands N one of Heimaey’s 5,300 inhabitants had ever expected that a volcanic eruption could make them homeless, when on 23rd January 1973 earthquakes started to shake the small island south of the Icelandic mainland. Only hours later a 2,000 metrelong crevice opened just outside the town and close to the church, pouring fountains of lava and ash over Heimaey’s houses and streets. In less than one hour all the inhabitants had been evacuated, without any chance of saving their belongings. Some people never returned to the island.
Heroes Saving a Home
Two hundred brave men stayed in the danger zone to fight the devastation, and finally succeeded in slowing down the lava flow by cooling it with sea water and thus saved the port. However, when 5 months later, the eruption came to its end, around 400 houses had been completely destroyed. This volcanic eruption made headlines worldwide, bringing back memories of the Italian town of Pompeii which, in 73 AD was buried under thick layers of ash and lava from Mt. Vesuvius. Huge parts of the historic site have since been excavated—so people on the Westman Islands rolled up their sleeves and started doing the same.
88
‘Pompeii of the North’ deserves its name: 40 years after the disaster some 10 houses have been raised from the ashes, and an impressive museum tops off the excavation site, that had been open to visitors since the very first dig.
A Museum as a Mirror
Eldheimar’s design is unique, rather ominous, and yet austere. It is an architectural masterpiece made of volcanic stone that perfectly mirrors the inexorability and harshness of nature. It’s beating heart right in the centre of the building is Gerðisbraut No. 10, the house that had been situated on the slope of the lava-spewing volcano. Having been fully excavated, it displays life on the day of the eruption and now serves as a memorial for a lost homeland. In Eldheimar’s over 1,000m 2 museum, visitors are presented multimedia shows and exhibitions about the Westman Island’s Eldfjall volcano that, in 1973 rose up to a height of 220 metres out of the blue yet was unknown before its eruption. It was similar to the submarine volcano which erupted in 1963 and lasted four years creating the island of Surtsey south of Heimaey. Surtsey is protected by nature protection laws and only scientists are allowed to access the island for research reasons.
www.icelandictimes.com
The island is part of the UNESCO World Cultural Heritage since 2008. The Eldheimar museum is quite open in both design and guidance in the exhibition halls as well as in the café and shop. It leaves enough space for walking around and contemplating the natural disaster and its impacts on the economic and cultural life of the Westman Islands, creating respect for the determination of its fearless inhabitants, who still brave the elements today.
Eldheimar Suðurvegur • 900 Vestmannaeyjum
+354 488 2000
eldheimar@vestmannaeyjar.is www.eldheimar.is
Viking Tours of the Westman Islands Experience the Haunting Music of Bird, Man and Whale
M
ountainous and mysterious, the Westman Islands are one of those places on virtually every tourist’s wish list. Seen from the mainland, the jagged archipelago rises dramatically from the horizon, breaking the skyline of Iceland’s south coast with a sort of ‘come hither’ look that you cannot evade.
The Circle Tour
A fun and refreshing way to sight-see in the Westman Islands is with Viking Tours’ Circle Tour. This 90 minute tour takes you around the main island of Heimaey where you will peek into sea caves and observe towering cliffs teaming with a variety of birdlife. The tour concludes with the sensational live sounds of haunting instrumental music, filling the singing cave of Klettshellur which is renowned for its superb acoustics.
The Coach Tour
Another delightful way to explore the island is by taking the Viking Tours’ coach tour which departs from the harbour every day, year round. The guided tour takes you around the island where you will learn something of the history and culture as well as get the the opportunity to observe puffins at Stórhöfði. In staggering numbers, these adorable birds f lock to the archipelago year after year, the first arriving on schedule around the 12th–14th of April. “The best time of day to see them is in the late afternoon and early evening when the puffin parents return to their burrow to feed their young, after spending the day fishing in the sea”, says Sigurmundur.
From hot Soup to hot Lava
soup and later on take in a free 55 minute All Vikingur II tours begin and end at the film about the 1973 volcanic eruption of cozy Café Kró down at the Vestmaneyar Eldfell and learn how this singular event harbour where you can enjoy a bowl of hot changed the face of the Westman Islands.
New Tours Available for Groups Only
a full-on six hour Bus+Boat combo tour for Viking Tours is now offering exciting new the ultimate Westman Island tour! group tours on its newly christened boat, the See you this summer in the Westman Vikingur, - a large 90 passenger boat which Islands! – EMV sails from the harbour at Landeyarhöfn. Options include a ‘quick look’ 90 minute Viking Tours boat tour of two small outer islands, a three Tangagötu 7 • 900 Vestmannaeyjum +354 488 4884 hour ‘island hopping’ tour which takes you viking@vikingtours.is www.vikingtours.is to six of the islands in the archipelago and
www.icelandictimes.com
89
To u r i s m , C u lt u r e
and
Business
I s s u e 19 • 2013
A Multinational Tapestry A long, artistic Icelandic story of intrigue and love
H
vol s völ lu r i n S out h Ic e l a nd i s not only the gateway to Iceland’s volcanic wilderness. Here you also enter ancient saga grounds. Almost 1,000 years ago incredible family dramas took place in the area. A 13th century scholar left us the story for posterity. The Saga of Njál deals with relationships and murder, and culminates in a dramatic family feud and the extinction of an entire clan. Displaying the saga in an exciting way, the museum of Hvolsvöllur shows probably the most unusual art project in Iceland: the Njál’s tapestry.
Njál in new ways
Icelandic sagas in their original language sound strange to our ears. The artist Kristín Ragna Gunnarsdóttir had the brilliant idea of converting Njál’s drama into a image project to be be created by visitors. Inspired by the fa mous tapestr y in Bayeux, Kristín has printed 91.5 metres of canvas with scenes and pictures of the Njálssaga and titled them with original quotations. The beautiful f igures and ornaments are now waiting to be stitched by diligent hands. Finely spun Icelandic wool is used for the embroidery. It was dyed with native herbs and is impressive with its fresh colours.
1000 years - 1000 hands
The project is ambitious. It might take 10 0 0 ha nd s to tra nsform t his 1,0 0 0 ye a r old s tor y i nto v ibr a nt i m a g e s . Everyone is invited to help in the project. Needlework artists sit next to members of bowling clubs, riders alongside hikers and managers. Whether you can only spare one hour, or want to spend a rainy afternoon in the cosy embroidery workshop, whatever country you may come from and whatever language you speak, you are welcome to join in and help. Images and colourful woollen threads a re connecting people of a ll nations and encouraging mutual awareness and
100
www.icelandictimes.com
storytelling - just as in the days of Njal, when people shared stories in the Viking halls. Is there a more enjoyable way to meet local people in a relaxed atmosphere? The impressive canvas roll rests on an easel and reveals only ten metres of Njálssaga - the work for all 2013. Each year ten metres of embroidery are scheduled to be completed, so no matter when you come, be part of the project!
Time travel with happy end
The Museum in Hvolsvöllur is a place for time travel. You can visit the exhibition of the Icelandic merchant’s association, or lose yourself in the maze of the saga exhibition. The latter especially tickles your senses by mixing an audio guide with meaningful replicas, like the clothes and weapons of Viking times, and with overwhelmingly expressive paintings of selected scenes of the saga. Take a deep breath when leaving the exhibition and relax in the museum café, built in Viking st yle. Take your time with a coffee or hot soup to catch up on the experience again and enjoy the photo exhibition in the hall. Young local artists are presenting their personal focus on Iceland. And maybe you will happen to be there when the next concert takes place. A programme can be found on the museum’s website. –
EMV
Rangárþing eystra Hlíðarvegur 16, 860 Hvolsvöllur
+354 488 4200
hvolsvollur@hvolsvollur.is www.hvolsvollur.is
Personal Iceland
Arrive as a customer, leave as a friend with Iceland Guided Tours
W
hen I was young, I travelled the world on a shoestring. I read everything I could and amassed volumes of travel books and guides. Looking back, I wonder what I missed because suddenly, all my cherished beliefs about independent travel came crashing down after a tour to the south coast with Iceland Guided Tours.
agree. Leaving the driving to others, I could just relax and enjoy the constantly changing weather and landscape. Our driver/guide was bursting with interesting knowledge, not only about what we were seeing, but a whole lot of insider information not found in guidebooks.
Guides with wit and knowledge
Iceland Guided Tours is run by a husband and Are you wearing glasses? wife team, Óðinn and Addý, who are long time I had read that seeing Iceland without a guide tour guides themselves and all their guides are was like leaving your glasses at home—and handpicked for their knowledge and ability to now, I have to say that I wholeheartedly deliver with wit and insight in English.
Tölt on the Volcano Icelandic Horse fun in Hveragerði
D
id your trip to Icela nd include Icelandic horses? Hardly anyone can escape the merry magic of this special breed of horses. You don’t have to go far to explore the Icelandic volcanic landscape with its natural hot springs and boiling mud pools on the back of an Icelandic horse. Solhestar, the riding tour operator in Hveragerði, offers all year round individual service to give you an unforgettable holiday experience. Take advantage of the pick-up service at your hotel and enjoy your horse riding tour.
Riding - Your choice
Sólmundur is bursting with ideas. You don’t fancy riding with a group? He will create a personal riding tour for you. Did you ever ride a horse around midnight? During summer Sólhestar offers a ride in the midnight sun. There is ha rd ly a more stirring experience than gliding smoothly on an inspired horse through the golden light in the timeless nature, smelling the dew, enjoying genuine Icelandic snacks and
www.icelandictimes.com
The little extras that make the difference
Small groups and personal service are the hallmarks of IGTours, using comfortable mini-buses. IGTours provides day tours and activities to various locations in Iceland. They can organise private tours for families and individuals by private car, Super Jeep, or minibus to any destination in Iceland. Now I only have one question...do I toss out the guide books? –
EMV
Iceland Guided Tours Borgarhraun 18 • 810 Hveragerði
+354 556 5566 info@igtours.is www.igtours.is
greeting the dawn. Or enjoy a day tour with the fresh sea air in your face while riding along the beach from the fishing town of Þorlákshöfn back to the farm. Sólhestar is a small family business, specialising in customised short riding tours. They can also organise riding tours for groups and longer tours. The dream of tölting on the volcano is just a click away. –
DT
Sólhestar Borgargerði • 801 Ölfus
+354 892 3066 solhestar@solhestar.is www.solhestar.is
101
To u r i s m , C u lt u r e
and
Business
I s s u e 21 • 2014
Far from the Madding Crowd Icelandiclandscapeandwildlifeinallitsgrandeur
Í
safjarðardjúp is the biggest fjord in the Westfjords. Divided into smaller inner fjords, the area offers an abundance of opportunities for experiencing Iceland far away from the crowded paths of the mainland. So take your time to enjoy your trip from Hólmavík to Súðavík. Enjoy driving in the immense vastness of the Steingrímsfjarðarheiði highland road and celebrate the moment when the country road takes you down to the inner part of the fjord. Why not take a refreshment break here at Hotel Reykjanes?
A Hot Spring Pool
The hotel is situated on the peninsula between Ísafjarðardjúp and the smaller Reykjarfjörður. Besides offering all kinds of outdoor activities, its sparkling gem is a swimming pool, built on one of the rare hot springs in the Westfjords, its water constantly being renewed from the spring, so no chemicals are needed. It is so relaxing to soak in the warm water and enjoy the clear air of the North after a long day’s drive! Why not add some spice to your life by visiting Saltverk ehf., the salt processing company where the world’s only artisan salt
50
is produced with 100% geothermal energy, to meet a species that rarely shows itself to following a 200 year-old method. travellers on land. The village of Súðavík, on the banks of the Eagles and Lava in Heydalur Álftafjörður fjord and under the impressive It is hardly possible to drive in the Westfjords Kofri mountain, has a special place in the without admiring the numerous sights of its hearts of many Icelanders. In January 1995 huge mountains. Take your time for breaks. the town was hit by a huge avalanche, Your next stop could be in Mjóafjörður, destroying many houses and taking many visiting Heydalur, a remote valley that lives. It led to the entire village moving to an saw its first settlers in the year 1100. Hotel avalanche safe zone a little further into the Heydalur offers various outdoor activities fjord. The homes which could not be moved and it’s inspiring to stay in the majestic are now rented out in summer time, and silence of an old volcanic area, which this ‘old village’ bustles with life between displays extraordinary lava formations, rich May and September. Súðavík ’s history vegetation and, of course, vivid Icelandic began in the 10th century. Its oldest house birdlife. You might be lucky and find eagles dates back to 16th century, being the home sailing on the northern winds, and falcons of the adventurer Jón Indíafari, the India and merlins are also regular sights. traveller. The village still has a lot to offer, like meeting the arctic fox in its museum at From Remoteness into Bustle and Back Melrakkasetur, or following fishing tradition The road along the pretty inner fjords takes with a sea angling trip ‘into the Djúp’. Or you into Skötufjördur, where you can visit simply hiking to the Valagil canyon, where the old turf house at Lítli Bær, dating back lava has formed an exceptional landscape to 1894, which was inhabited until 1969. with waterfalls and hidden recesses. – DT Step in and get a feeling for how it might Súðavík have been in the old days! Just 500m away at Grundarstræti 3 • 420 Súðavík Hvítanes, seals can be seen just metres from + 354 450 5900 the coastline offering a nice opportunity sudavik@sudavik.is www.sudavik.is
www.icelandictimes.com
www.icelandictimes.com
51
To u r i s m , C u lt u r e
and
Business
I s s u e 21 • 2014
A Day close to ‘The Viking’
Experiencing past and present with Dýrafjörður’s Eagle Tours
T
he silent beauty of the Westfjords is revealed in a very particular way when seen through the eyes of the settlers— by boat. And who better than a seafarer to show the majestic mountains and solitude of the fjords?
life, culture and the history of Iceland’s remote North West, that has been so popular down through the centuries, right from the beginning, 1,000 years ago, when Saga hero Gisli Sursson dwelt in the area.
Join a fisherman
The valleys of Dýrafjörður witnessed one of Iceland’s most dramatic family feuds, and Jón knows every detail of that story. He offers to take you hiking on the paths of history, through the picturesque corners of the fjord. Should you happen to meet Gisli’s brother Þorkell, he might just be in the mood to discuss his fatal jealousy that led to the feud. Or maybe you might find Gisli’s wife, Auður, picking herbs but nevertheless willing to open her heart and talk about her deep love for Gisli.
In the village of Þingeyri on the banks of Dýrafjörður in the western part of the Westfjords you can share this experience and join a seafarer on his Viking boat. Whether you choose a romantic sail on a glassy sea into the midnight sun or the adventure of a fishing trip, it might all seem like a dream and Jón Þórðarsson the maker of it. It’s a real thrill to sail with him, heading out into the fjord to catch your own fish from Iceland’s arctic waters. Then comes the satisfaction of bringing it to shore and preparing it right there, between the ancient stones and drift wood, spicing it with the mountains’ fresh summer herbs!
The Viking
They call him “The Viking”. There is not much that Jón can’t tell about Dýrafjörður’s deep blue waters, after having been a fulltime fisherman in the Westfjords for almost 57 years. He really likes to talk about the
56
Hunting Saga spirits
Dinner host
Jón definitely knows how to intertwine past and present in his stories. His dinner events are legendary, as they are never just about food, rather more of a ceremony, serving all your senses. You feast on fresh fish from the fjord and lamb from the mountains, while listening to traditional live music and storytelling, plunging into the past of this remote Icelandic community life.
www.icelandictimes.com
A sense of community is what Jón offers in everything he shares with you. His way of receiving guests is marked by a genuine jovial warmth and closeness that will simply make you want to stay—and keep on listening. This is the culture and lifestyle of the fjords in real life. “Just ask me,” he will say. “I can tell you stories…” –
Eaglefjord +354 894 1684 +354 456 2101 info@eaglefjord.is www.eaglefjord.is
DT
Iceland’s First Settler T
he arctic fox is an enchanting creature. At some point in the distant past, it travelled across the frozen sea and, in spite of the inhospitable climate, found a home on this small, isolated island. The arctic fox is Iceland’s only native terrestrial land mammal and has been the subject of curiosity by scholars and lay people alike. For this reason, The Arctic Fox Centre was established in the village of Súðavík in 2010, since the fox is commonly found in the area.
Exhibition of the first native
The Centre is located in the oldest house in Súðavík, a 120 year-old farm that was renovated by the local authorities and is situated between what locals call the ‘old village’, destroyed in a devastating avalanche in 1995, and the ‘new village’, built in its stead at a safe distance from the mountain.
The Centre serves as an educational and cultural hub and offers an extensive exhibition on the arctic fox as well as regularly exhibiting local arts and crafts. Its main aim however, is to collect and preserve everything of importance regarding the arctic fox and its long-lasting relationship with man as surprisingly, fox hunting is the oldest paid occupation in Iceland. The exhibition is divided into three sections: the biology of the fox, the hunting
Vesturof the fox and the hunters themselves, this last mentioned containing, for example, objects and personal accounts from fox hunters. Other material is presented through written text or video and, of course, there are quite a few stuffed animals. Visitors are guided through the exhibition, which is one of a kind in Iceland and open all year round. The Centre is a non-profit business, involved in research and studies on the population of the fox. They also offer guidance on arctic fox tours in collaboration with tourist offices as well as believing in and supporting ecotourism in Iceland. A nice little café at the Centre sells homebaked pastries, light courses and wonderful coffee, which guests can enjoy out on the patio overlooking the beautiful mountains and the sea. The café has open Internet access. On Friday nights, live music is performed in the loft, where it’s nice to sit down for a drink in the cosy atmosphere. The Centre also has a small boutique selling specially made souvenirs and craftwork. –
Artic Fox Centre Eyrardalur • 420 Súðavík
+354 456 4922 melrakki@melrakki.is www.melrakki.is
HÞ
Images by © Þórður Sigurðsson
The furtive little arctic fox is found in the Westfjords in Súðavík
To u r i s m , C u lt u r e
and
Business
I s s u e 21 • 2014
The Hidden Pearl of Iceland Dine on Rare Arctic Char at Icelandair Hotel Klaustur
A
wa it ing you r a rriva l in t he beautiful and peaceful village of Kirkjubæjarklaustur, sits ‘The Hidden Pearl of Iceland’ as many guests have affectionately renamed the place. Whether you are driving, hiking, or travelling in a large group through the South of Iceland, an authentic Icelandic gourmet dining experience can be yours to enjoy at Icelandair Hotel Klaustur. This modern hotel is nestled between two majestic glaciers and near several renowned natural wonders of Iceland, such as: Jokulsarlon, Skaftafell, Lakagigar,
92
and Landmannalaugar. The reason why guests call Icelandair Hotel Klaustur ‘The hidden pearl’ is because of its in-house restaurant which serves succulent gourmet dishes made with top quality Icelandic ingredients, including the rare fresh water fish, Arctic char. Rare Arctic Char is the main ingredient in Icelandair Hotel Klaustur’s own fish soup and many other popular gourmet dishes. Arctic char is a cold-water fish which is closely related to both the salmon and the lake trout. It is one of the rarest fish species in the world and can only be found in deep, cold, glacial lakes. In Kirkjubæjarklaustur, the Arctic Char is farmed in a free flowing stream that
comes from pure oxygen-enriched glacial spring water which filtered through layers of natural lava rock originating from the Vatnajokull Glacier. The char is fed high quality capelin fish meal enriched with soy protein, Omega 3 fatty acids and mineral supplements. At Icelandair Hotel Klaustur, it is prepared fresh daily by a knowledgeable chef as the primary ingredient in both main courses and starters.
Fire and Ice
The restaurant also has a really nice balcony that offers a spectacular view of Vatnajokull Glacier. Often guests find themselves in complete tranquillity out on the veranda as they take in this view while snuggled
in comfortable lounge chairs, enjoying the warm summers or mild winters. Desserts are also a speciality, and the combination of Iceland’s two contrasting elements of fire and ice is portrayed in perfect harmony by joining hot rhubarb soup with cold vanilla ice-cream, served with fresh mountain berries. This combination creates a wonderful balance of sweet and sour flavours with hot and cold temperatures and is a perfect way to indulge the senses.
The restaurant can seat up to 150 guests at a time and opening hours are: Lunch 11:30 till 14:00 Dinner 19:00 till 21:30 during the summer season. Leisure activities in the area include, but are not limited to: a nearby swimming pool, a golf course, hiking, glacier tours and sight seeing. Furthermore, Icelandair Hotel Klaustur of f e r s g u e s t s a c hoi c e b e t w e e n 57
comfortable modern rooms and is perfect for singles, couples or large groups. For more information about Klaustur Char feel free to visit the official website. http://www.klausturbleikja.is/ –
ÓB
Icelandair Hotel Klaustur Klausturvegi 6 • 880 Kirkjubæjarklaustur
+354 487 4900 klaustur@icehotels.is www.icehotels.is
93
To u r i s m , C u lt u r e
and
Business
I s s u e 21 • 2014
The Simple Life of the Icelandic Countryside Budget-Friendly Ljósafossskóli Guest House
S
hould you happen to be travelling on a t i g ht b u d g e t d u r i n g y o u r holiday to Iceland, finding inexpensive accommodation can sometimes b e c h a l le n g i n g. T he ne w l y op e ne d Ljósafossskóli Guest House with its down to earth simplicity in the heart of the Grimsnes district near Thingvellir, caters to all those who must be mindful of expenses. Originally built as a boarding school in the 1940s, this former centre of education served up to 50 pupils in its hey day. Once overflowing with chattering students, the now-quiet building retains a certain stature with its wide passageways and graceful curving stairways, giving it an unpretentious and typically Scandinavian look and feel. Brightly coloured stained glass windows in the main foyer were crafted and installed by the students themselves and stand out against the stark white walls, serving as a charming reminder of the guest house’s pedagogical past. A modern wing was added in 1994, and it is here that you will find a fully equipped kitchen that guests are welcome to make full use of, as well as a spacious dining hall which overlooks a well maintained indoor football (soccer) pitch/basketball court, also free for guests to use. Ljósafossskóli Guest House is ideal for school groups and offers bunk bed and twin bed sleeping arrangements in private rooms
94
on the first floor and more bunk beds in the downstairs dormitory. A large family-sized room that sleeps up to six is also available. A buffet style continental breakfast is served in the dining room and is included in the room price. All rooms have shared facilities. For those who prefer more spacious and private quarters, Ljósafossskóli Guest House also offers a fully furnished 4 bedroom/ 2 bath house which sits just a hundred metres from the main building. Completely refurbished in a modern and relaxing style, the house is perfect for families and includes a self contained kitchen, bed linens, towels, sleeping up to 8 people.
www.icelandictimes.com
Ljósafossskóli Guest House is well situated with easy access to nearby natural attractions: Geysir: 55km, Thingvellir: 20km, Selfoss: 20km, Reykjavik: 70km and around 100km from Keflavik International Airport. –
EMV
LjósafossskóliGuestHouse 801 Selfoss
+354 800-9697
ljosafossskoli@gmail.com www.myguesthouse.is
Slakki Zoo and Play Centre Where Children and Animals Get to Know One Another
F
or the past 20 years, both adults and children have been having fun, enjoying the animals and playing games at the Slakki Zoo and Play Centre in Laugarás, close to Skálholt cathedral and not far from the famous Geysir. It’s clear that it has struck a chord in the hearts of its visitors, many of whom return several times a year. Of course, the countryside is synonymous with animals. For the children to be able to experience animals close up, to be able to touch and hold many of them, is a treat that is rare for many nowadays. They love the opportunity to play with animals of all kinds and to look at the birds and fish in their own environments. Summer is a precious time in Iceland and everyone tries to make the most of it. With activities for all the family, adults included, it makes a great day out in a place where the simple joys of life can be indulged in by everyone.
A Safe and Fun Activity Day
There are animals of all sizes from horses to mice, pigs to ponies and everything in between. Some are inside and others can be enjoyed in the gardens. The kittens, for
example, are a favourite inside their own little house, where children can hold and pet them for as long as they wish—and that can be a long time. This is a safe environment where parents can relax, knowing their children will be enjoying themselves without harm. Families often make a day of it. Besides the animals, there is a large aquarium and many different species of birds to enjoy. Even farmers come with their families— often wondering why their children love it so much when they have animals at home! It’s not just the animals, though. There are other games to play which unite the family in a fun entertainment such as the putting green and crazy golf.
Relax with Restaurant Refreshments
Naturally, when you’re staying all day in a centre such as Slakki, refreshments are very important and here you will find a restaurant and café filled with home-made snacks, including delicious hamburgers with salad and apple cakes with cream. The café is in a small turf house, with plenty of seating outside where you can enjoy the sun, the yummy, locally-made
www.icelandictimes.com
Kjöris icecream and a good selection of drinks, knowing the children are safe. Stuffed animals may be fine at home, but nothing can replace the experience of holding or playing with live animals. No computer or TV can take their place, either, so it’s no surprise that many families return again and again. Slakki’s indoor zoo is open every day throughout the summer months until the end of August. It is one of Iceland’s secrets that is being revealed on the Internet, with pictures and videos being posted by contented customers and their happy children. If you’re driving the Golden Circle trip, you can see for yourself. It’s only a few minutes off the main road to Geysir. You’ll find it a short distance past the cathedral in the village of Laugarás, just before the bridge and. after you see for yourself, I think you’ll agree it was well worth taking the time to visit this most unusual tourist attraction. If you have children, it’s a must! –
ASF
Slakki Launrétt I • 801 Selfossi
+354 486 8783 helgi@slakki.is www.slakki.is
95
To u r i s m , C u lt u r e
and
Business
I s s u e 18 • 2013
A Picture of the Past Experience life as it was at Skógar Museum S hor t ly before t he S ec ond World War, a 14 year-old boy, seeing the introduction of many new technologies that were changing life around him, also saw the importance of preserving the nation’s heritage and began collecting items that would no longer be used. Now over 90 yea rs of a ge, Þórður Tómasson still possesses a vivid memory and a keen mind, having spent his life building the museum in his village of Skógar on Iceland’s south coast.
The Largest Folk Museum in Iceland
First opened in 1949, the museum began life in the basement of the school but has grown enormously over the years and especially since the year 2000. Þórður often travelled from farm to farm, writing down the stories and anecdotes told him by the families. He collected household items, farming and fishing implements, ornate wooden chests, decorative items of wood, brass, silver and gold as well as traditional clothing and artifacts dating back to the Viking Age. In 2012, over the museum received over 52,000 visitors as it became well known as the definitive picture of Iceland’s past.
explains it all. From the reconstructed turf farmhouse to the early 20th century school, the church to the early hydroelectric plant, a picture of innovation under difficult circumstances becomes very evident. Take fishing, for example. The fishery section displays an eight-oar open fishing boat that was used until 1946. Since there is no harbour along the south coast, boats had to be launched into the wild North Atlantic seas from open beaches—a very hazardous operation that took many lives. Ma ny of t he ex hibit s a re f rom a n agricultural background, showing how farming families had to be very resourceful, often making and repairing their own equipment, tools and utensils. The same goes for furniture and clothing, where families showed considerable creativity in putting whatever they had available to the best use.
An important part of the museum complex is the section covering the histor y of transportation and communication. As horse transport gave way to mechanized vehicles, a modern legacy was created, showing how not only cars but agricultural machinery brought major changes. From the first telephone to the wireless car and ship radios, communication has also played an integral part in the changes in society that are best understood by the exhibits here.
An Archive of the Area
The museum also holds the archives of the region, providing a record for future generations. For anyone interested in the Icelandic culture, a visit to Skógar is a must.
How Did They Manage It?
–
ASF
Byggðasafnið Skógum
If you ever wondered how people could have survived in Iceland prior to the mid20th century, this fascinating folk museum
96
M u s e u m o f Tr a n s p o r t a n d Communication
Skógum • 861 Hvolvöllur
+354 487 8845
skogasafn@skogasafn.com www.skogasafn.is
www.icelandictimes.com
At your service - Anywhere - Anytime
Special sightseeing taxi tours We specialize in personalized sightseeing day trips to the natural wonders of Iceland – for small groups of 4-8 persons.
We´ll make you a Comfortable Price offer!
All major credit cards accepted by the driver. To book in advance: tel:+354 588 5522 or on www.hreyfill.is E-mail: tour@hreyfill.is
To u r i s m , C u lt u r e
and
Business
I s s u e 21 • 2014
At the End of the World A look at one of Iceland’s most remote corners
T
he Langanes Peninsula, on the far reaches of Iceland’s remote northeast coast stretches for 40km into the ocean and culminates with Fontur at its very tip. Popular with bird watchers, hikers and seekers of solitude, Langanes boasts the third largest gannet nesting site in the world. It is also here that thousands of kittiwakes and guillemots fly in every year in May and June to breed and congregate along the towering cliffs that make up their summer breeding grounds.
A Unique Way to Watch the Birds
In 2011, residents of Langanes put their heads together and came up with the idea of building a viewing platform, or terrace, at Skoruvikurbjarg, giving visitors a unique vantage point from which to view one of Iceland’s preeminent gannet nesting sites. The platform will extend some 10m out from the cliff that overlooks the Stórikarl column, offering visitors an
66
impressive view of the diverse birdlife of the area. The platform will be the first of its kind in the country and is an important development in tourism in the Northeast Iceland. Construction of the platform is currently underway and the official opening is scheduled for the 3rd of May, 2014, just in time for the beginning of the breeding season.
Mjölnir, the Hammer of Thor (Þór),
Legend has it, that at the beginning of time, Mjöknir, the hammer of the mighty god of thunder, Thor (Þór), was thrown into the middle of Langanes Peninsula, creating the harbour (höfn)—thus the name ‘Thor’s höfn’ (Þórshöfn). Þórshöfn Village and harbour is located at the innermost point of Þistilfjörður Fjord, by a little creek. It offers a magnificent view of Þistilfjörður Fjord and the harbour provides shelter from the north and northeast winds - the arch enemy of small boats.
www.icelandictimes.com
Þórshöfn Village
O n e c a n i m a g i n e Þ ó r s h ö f n’s f i r s t inhabitants, surviving the harsh Icelandic winters, relying on the ocean for sustenance and surrounded by the rugged beauty of the land, with its mesmerizing and tranquil sunrises and sunsets. Life must have been a journey of great contrasts. Glimpses of those days gone by are still possible to experience in this remote corner of the Iceland. Þórshöfn qualified as a trading port in 1846 and around 1880 the first structures were built, initially as storage sheds for merchandise and later as living quarters for the merchants themselves. Up until that time, goods were traded between ships. The Langanes Co-op (Kaupfélag Langnesinga) was founded in 1911 and from that point on, the village grew quickly, expanding until the second half of the last century. Today, Þórshöfn with a population of 388 inhabitants, operates a productive
fishmeal factory and a freezing plant, boasts of several charming guest houses, the beautiful Eyrin Restaurant, a gym, an indoor pool and hot tubs, which are perfect for relaxing after a long day.
Bakkafjörður Village
The picturesque village of Bakkafjörður, w it h it s pr e s e nt p o p u l a t i on o f 72 inhabitants, is located on the eastern side of Bakkafjörðurfjord. It received its trading license in 1885 and gains its livelihood from fishing, fish processing, commerce and services rendered to the agricultural community. Although the old pier in the village centre has given way to a picturesque harbour, a crane, which was once used to hoist fishing boats in and out of the water stands idle on the old pier, serving as a silent tribute to Bakkafjörður’s past.
From the old harbour, you can fish for cod and local fishermen take visitors sightseeing out on the fjord in their small fishing boats when the weather is fine. For the more adventurous, Bakkafjörður Fjord is considered to be a great location for kayaking, and in summer, the camp site has proven popular as well. Then there is the swimming pool at Selárdalur with its impressive views of the surrounding mountains.
During salmon fishing season ( June through September) pool-goers can watch as anglers try their luck in the Selá River just below the swimming pool. Langanes Municipality is one of Iceland’s hidden gems, where the beauty and soul of the small fishing villages lives on. – SP
Langanesbyggð Fjarðarvegi 3 • 680 Þórshöfn
+354 468 1220
sveitarstjori@langanesbyggd.is www.langanesbyggd.is
The Earthquake Center in Kópasker was founded to commemorate the Kópasker earth quake of 13th of January 1976. The exhibition presents this event and its aftermath through reports, stories and photographs. There are also explanations of the geology of the area, allowing the visitor to gain a better understanding of plate boundaries, earthquake and eruptions. Opening hours: June 1st—August 31th, daily from 13:00-17:00. At other times by agreement. Address: Akurgerði 4-6, 670 Kópasker. Tel. +354-465-2105 / +354-845-2454 E-mail: earthquake@kopasker.is Website: http://skjalftasetur.is
www.icelandictimes.com
The Earthquake Center in Kópasker was founded to commemorate the Kópasker earth
67
SOUVENIR SHOP SHO P O F THE YE AR 2012
The viking:info Laugavegur 1 · Reykjavík Hafnarstræti 1 - 3 · Reykjavík Hafnarstræti 104 · Akureyri e:info@theviking.is
Akureyri Reykjavík
www.theviking.is TAX FREE
Open
Open
Open
Open
O
ne of the world’s smaller capitals, Reykjavík is surrounded by the towns of Seltjarnarnes, Kópavogur, Garðabær, Álftanes, Hafnarfjörður and the country town of Mosfellsbær, combining to make up the Greater Reykjavík area. It is also one of Europe’s youngest capitals. Founded by the first permanent Viking settler in the 900’s, Ingólfur Arnarson, it has grown from a handful of houses a few centuries ago to a compact and thriving metropolis. The National Museum holds the history of the nation, while the National Library, just opposite it, has the nation’s books and records. There are many art galleries and museums throughout the area and the new concert hall complex by Reykjavík’s harbour, Harpa, has a full programme each month. Innovation and inspiration play a major role in the city’s life. From here, visitors can reach the whole country. The countryside is always very close by. Activities such as tours, whale- or bird-watching, fishing, swimming, hiking, biking and horse-riding are very popular. On weekends especially, the city is filled with nightlife that continues till morning. There are plenty of pubs and restaurants with both genuine Icelandic food and international cuisines. So you never need to go hungry. From youth hostel to guesthouses and hotels, there’s accommodation for every budget.
Reykjavík Area The Greater
Map © Ólafur Valsson
www.icelandictimes.com
Y
ou could spend your whole holiday on the Reykjanes peninsula. Stand on the bridge spanning the continents. Take a thrilling ATV ride up to a moonscape of mountains, volcanos and lava fields. Bathe in the world-renowned Blue Lagoon, with its warm, healing waters. Ride the Icelandic horse. Go hiking and caving. Catch your breath— you are just beginning! Here, some of the first pioneers set up home. You can see their ancient ruins. Their rich fishing fields just offshore still provide large catches but winter storms are so fierce they can throw ships many metres inland. Their salt fish is famous in the Mediterranean countries. Here, you will find the Viking longship that sailed to America in the steps of Leif the Lucky, the first European to discover North America in the year 1000, and the museum for one of the world’s most famous polar explorers, Jean-Baptiste Chacot. Take a tour with one of the knowledgeable guides to see the area: the birdwatching sites, the ancestral Viking house, the boiling mud springs and steam vents, bubbling lakes, the cultural centres. Enjoy a stay in one of the hotels, guesthouses or camp sites and eat delicious meals in a wide variety of restaurants, pubs and cafés. This is the Land of the Vikings!
Peninsula The Reykjanes
Map © Ólafur Valsson
www.icelandictimes.com
T
here’s much more to West Iceland than the spectacular Snæfellsjökull, made famous by Jules Verne, gleaming white in the sunshine. The beauty and variety of Icelandic nature is everywhere. Magnificent views overlooking mountains and glaciers, fertile regions, colourful birdlife, abundant rivers and lakes, fjords and bays, along with gushing geothermal activity. But West Iceland is more than magnificent nature. Land and history form an unbroken whole as the setting for sagas like Sturlunga, Egil’s Saga, Eyrbyggja and Laxdaela, not to mention the rich folklore and tales of adventure. Tours bring history to life as museums and historical sites abound. For the outdoor enthusiasts, there is enough to keep them busy all summer long. Horse riding tours are popular, as are hiking, fishing and golf. At the end of an active day, there are plenty of swimming pools and hot pots to relax in. Accommodation covers the complete range from sleeping bag to hotel. The mystical Breiðafjörður bay, with its countless islands is home to all kinds of sea life and tours out into the bay will visit islands covered in birds, with some offering sea fishing. The tourist information office in Borgarnes provides a great wealth of helpful material.
West Iceland Map © Ólafur Valsson
www.icelandictimes.com
I
t was for good reasons that the ‘Lonely Planet’ guide put this area in its list of the top 10 regions of the world to visit in 2011 and it won a ‘European Destination of Excellence’ (EDEN) award. A very sparsely populated region of Iceland, it is home to the Arctic fox, a dizzying variety of birdlife and a nature that is simply breathtaking. With precipitous cliffs that plunge almost vertically to the deep blue seas below, its multitude of beautiful fjords, its hot springs, pure streams and waterfalls, it’s a place for the nature-lover to be awed by its silence and tranquility, pierced only by the birds. Although a region easy to get to, once there, the isolation and untouched beauty is best explored by hiking, horse riding or kayaking. After a day enjoying this nature, it is always nice to relax in the hot springs, well known for their healing properties, dine in one of the numerous restaurants or cafés or to go fishing under the midnight sun or Northern Lights. The tiny, picturesque villages dotted around the fjords and the main town of Ísafjörður welcome visitors with campsites, guesthouses and hotels. There is much history here, too, worth investigating.
Westfjords Map © Ólafur Valsson
www.icelandictimes.com
S
ummer in the North is characterised by the midnight sun. You can play golf, go seal and whale watching, horse riding, hiking, swimming, fishing, river rafting, bird-watching, camping or simply enjoy the disparate forms of nature. The region wears a different coat in winter, when you can ride horses on the frozen lakes in Mývatn under the Northern Lights or ski the slopes just minutes from Akureyri town centre. Northern Iceland is probably Iceland’s most diverse region—in every sphere. Nature varies from the mystical area around Mývatn Lake, a birdwatching paradise, to the awesome horse-shoe canyon of Ásbyrgi, the thunderous waterfalls at Goðafoss and Dettifoss, Askja’s calderas and volcanos, or islands like Drangey, to name a few. The region is bursting with vibrant history, just waiting to be enjoyed. Museums are found in almost every town, with fascinating insights into fields such as the seals at Selasetur in Hvammstangi or the Whale Museum in Húsavík to the turf house of Glaumbær farm in Skagafjörður. Then Skagaströnd, home to the Museum of Prophecies is known as the country music capital of Iceland. In Hjaltadal valley in Skagafjörður is Hólar, formerly the episcopal see and site of the first printing press. Siglufjörður hosts the Folk Music and Herring museums. Blönduós has several museums, as does Akureyri, the largest town of the north, along with its art galleries and rich culture.
North Iceland Map © Ólafur Valsson
www.icelandictimes.com
T
iny, tight-knit communities extend a warm welcome here. A well-developed infrastructure, with regular flights from Reykjavik to Egilsstaðir, the main hub of the area, enable visitors to enjoy the beauty of the region. The ferry from Europe docks at the 19 th century town of Seyðisfjörður, making the East a good starting point for a holiday. Tours of all types take visitors to Europe’s largest glacier, stark highland mountains and sweet-smelling heathlands and, for fishing and kayaking, to mirror-smooth fjords. The hiking nature-lover can discover countless spectacular routes, with frequent waterfalls and reindeer sightings. The beauty of this area has drawn artists and designers to the little towns, which have developed their own cultural flavour, many with a strong European—and especially, French or Norwegian—influence. There is a long history of folklore here. Borgarfjörður eystri is known as the capital of the elves. It’s also an area of hiking trails and birdwatching, with puffins being especially plentiful. Brilliantly coloured semi-precious stones are found in the mountains and Petra’s Stone Museum in Stöðvarfjörður holds probably the world’s largest private collection.The numerous hotels, guesthouses and camping areas attest to the rising popularity of the area.
East Iceland Map © Ólafur Valsson
www.icelandictimes.com
T
he wealth of South Iceland lies in the variety of geological, historical and nature sites along with the long list of activities that can be experienced in the region. This region has geological wonders such as Geysir; the Gullfoss, Háifoss, Skógafoss, Systra and Seljalandsfoss waterfalls; Þingvellir, where the tectonic plates crack the Earth; Europe’s largest glacier, Vatnajökull; the Kerið caldera; world-famous volcanos like Hekla, the Gateway to Hell, Lakagígar, Laki, the notorious Eyjafjallajökull and the Katla Geopark; fantasy sites like Þórsmörk and Jökulsárlón. Here are historical sites like the world’s longest-running parliament at Þingvellir; museums, churches, the Stöng settlement, the Saga centre and villages like Eyrarbakki.Activities abound. Tours take you to all the sites, including the glaciers. Horse riding tours are popular. Try the riverjet, boat trips or kayaking; scuba diving in clear waters, fishing or caving. Independent travellers can try hiking and cycling, camping or caravanning. Winter activites are just as thrilling. Fortunately, there is plenty of accommodation available throughout the region from camping to high-class hotels and restaurants to suit every taste. A developed infrastructure helps you get the most from your trips.
South Iceland Map © Ólafur Valsson
www.icelandictimes.com
To u r i s m , C u lt u r e
and
Business
I s s u e 19 • 2013
A Setting for Every Mood Gamla Kaupfélagið Extends its Selection
O
n a tranquil peninsula in Akranes you’ll be pleasantly surprised to find Gamla Kaupfélagið, a high quality restaurant, wellknown for its menu’s wide range and popular with the locals and visitors alike.
Indian in Akranes
Gamla Kaupfélagið has recently added a tandoori oven to its repertoire, offering a variety of exciting Indian dishes. Gísli Sigurjón Þráinsson, restaurant manager, says that the Indian addition is another reflection of Gamla Kaupfélagið’s ambition to satisfy every customer. “We’re always looking for something new and exciting to keep things interesting and our customers seem to appreciate that,” says Gísli.
Catering to all customers
Gamla Kaupfélagið can cater to almost all of their customers’ tastes, whether it be roadweary travellers looking for a quick snack, gourmands looking for something fresh and inspiring, romantic couples looking for a cozy night out or larger families looking for a complete package. “The pizzas and pastas are always popular, as well as our plentiful salads, for those who know they want those. But for those looking for a more unique culinary experience, our lobster dishes never fail to satisfy,” says Gísli.
Ga mla K aupfélagið is located in a spacious house that was formerly a general store, providing each customer with an experience to suit their personal taste. After 10 o’clock on the weekends, the restaurant changes to a bar, where the friendly locals tend to gather after the working week. –
VAG
Gamla Kaupfélagið Kirkjubraut 11 • 300 Akranesi
+354 431 4343
gamlakaupfelagid@skaginn.is www.gamlakaupfelagid.is
Hot from the Oven
Geiri’s Bakery and Coffee Shop in Borgarnes
T
ravellers coming from Reykjavik spot the bakery from the Borgarnes bridge. There’s plenty of parking right out side t he shop. G ei r i ’s c u stomer s immediately feel welcome the moment they step into the bakery, where delicious pastries and breads are made on the spot.
48
Geiri is an affable man who takes pride in what he knows best, which is baking breads and pastries of all sorts. His personal favourites are the ‘love balls’, which are oil fried balls of pastry a little larger than a golf ball, and a cinnamon bun commonly called snúður in Icelandic. His special version
www.icelandictimes.com
on this popular theme comes with a thick chocolate crust and a large glass of fresh milk. They can all be enjoyed sitting at the comfortable seats and sturdy wooden tables of the coffee shop. The view is so extraordinary that visitors should be charged an entrance fee! Right outside the window, there is a tidal plain filled with birds at low tide and the second longest bridge in Iceland. Beyond the bridge one sees the impressive local mountains, snow-capped in winter. In the distance lie the Eiríksjökull and Langjökull glaciers.
Geiri’s bakery is the perfect spot to stop for refreshments on your travels on the Ring Road. –
Geirabakarí Digranesgötu 6 310 Borgarnes
+354 437 2020
geirabak@internet.is www.facebook.com/geirabakari.ehf
SV
WorldsofMagic &Mythology
TakeatripintootherworldsattheEdduveröldExhibitioninBorgarnes
N
orse mythology is one of the most Kristjánsdóttir from Borgarnes. “I love the fantastic legacies of the ancient Nordic Norse mythology,” says Erla, “The more heritage of which Iceland is an integral part. I read about it, the more I enjoy it. It is Edduveröld – Edda’s World – offers local and foreign visitors alike an accessible glimpse into this hitherto largely hidden heritage with a model and a professionally made audio guide available in a number of languages. Edduveröld in Borganes, and later at Reykholt which is about 30 minutes from Borgarnes.
Norse Mythology in Borgarnes
Several large size wall hangings with images from the Norse mythology make up this unique exhibition. The centre piece is a 25m2 model of the ancient world designed by artist and visionary Haukur Halldórsson, whose ambition is to build a life-size amusement park like the one seen in the model. Visitors can enjoy a 20 minute audio guide commentary in English, German, Norwegian or Icelandic for adults and in Icelandic for children. Edduveröld Exhibition is owned and operated by Erla Jónsdóttir and Guðrún
Homely restaurant and Coffee House
Edduveröld restaurant offers home-style lunch at an affordable price and an á-la-carte menu in the evening. “We make everything from scratch, so we know exactly what goes into our food and pastries,” says Erla. Mythology plays a big role in the naming of the dishes on the á-la-carte menu. There’s a lamb dish named Óðin and the fish catchof-the-day is called Miðgarðsfiskur. More information about the restaurant and its special lunch and dinner offers of the day is available on their website and Facebook. possible to view the stories in so many ways The restaurant is open from 10 in the and I guess everyone will picture it in his or morning until 11 at night every night her own way.” except Fridays and Saturdays when it stays The source of the Norse heathen mythology open until 1 am. – SV was recorded by Christian chieftain and scholar, Snorri Sturluson in the manuscript Edduveröld Snorra Edda in the 13th century. Sturluson Skúlagötu 17 • 310 Borgarnes +354 437 1455 happened to live at the Borg farm in edduverold@gmail.com www.edduverold.is Borgarfjörður, only 10 minute drive from the
www.icelandictimes.com
49
Where
Birds & Photographers meet
Akranes is for people who enjoy nature, culture, and
T
he town you can see gleaming in the sunshine across the bay from Reykjavik harbour is Akranes, a haven for photographers, campers, hikers, nature, bird and beach lovers and history buffs. It’s only a bus ride away, with the regular bus service no. 57 or 58 taking you past picturesque farms, setting the stage for the variety of nature and bird life as you approach it. Once in town, the local bus service is free. Akranes is a very popular place for camping and caravans. The sites are well set up with all the facilities easily available. Shops and the two swimming pools are close by. There is also the golden sand beach, which is unusual for Iceland. There are changing facilities and a sun veranda right next to it. Hot showers and a jaccuzzi make it a relaxing place to enjoy the long summer evenings.
50
The geography of the area is inspiring for hikers, who have all levels of hiking open to them—including Akrafjall mountain that forms the backdrop to the town and, to a large extent, its protection from the northerly winds. From its peak, the view in every direction is absolutely spectacular, and provides the best view over Faxaflói Bay to be found anywhere. There are planned hikes twice a week or hikers and walkers can follow the different marked routes. The town is surrounded on three sides by the sea—which gives plenty of scope for some good fishing. Since the camp site is right next to one of these fishing spots, catching your dinner is all the easier, if you’re a fisherman. There are a range of good restaurants available for those who aren’t up to catching their meals!
www.icelandictimes.com
Image by © Finnur Andrésson
life Lighthouses with a view
The summers are usually warm and pleasant but the same cannot be said for the winters! At Breiðin, on the westernmost part of the A k ra nes peninsula, sta nd t wo lighthouses. The smaller is one of the oldest concrete lighthouses in the country, built in 1918. It is a little closer to the sea than the newer one and has been abandoned now. The rough winter’s seas pound it and send spray right over it. The taller new lighthouse is open to visitors from 10 am till noon daily throughout the summer and provides a beautiful panoramic view of the Akranes area and all the way to Keflavík, making it a spot for photographers to take full advantage of, as the birdlife around it is also very diverse all year round, offering many photo opportunities.
Art, culture and sport combine
The town is known for its culture. The Music School is right in the centre; art and crafts are found everywhere, as is writing, singing and poetry. Akranes is a family town with plenty of activities and sports. The 18-hole golf course is one of the country’s best and you can rent a set of clubs and enjoy it yourself. Football is very popular and their top team boasts several stars who have gone to famous international clubs. There is a great bar-b-que area in the park, surrounded by trees, with games and crazy golf. Walking and cycling are popular pastimes, with bikes available to rent and paths of different lengths to enjoy. Swimming is popular - either in the pools with their hot tubs or in the sea, where the bathing club invites guests to swim with them three days a week.
www.icelandictimes.com
A dramatic picture of the past
The museum area is really worth visiting. Besides examples of fishing vessels down the years displayed outside, including the only example of a 3-masted cutter, the indoor section has samples of practically every aspect of the fisherman’s life. Next to it is another unusual museum: The Icela ndic Spor t Museum. Check out the footsteps on the f loor. A Geological museum is housed in the same building with a large collection of stones which show just how colourful Iceland is. There is always an exhibit on display. –
ASF
AkranesTouristInformationOffice Suðurgata 57 • 300 Akranesi
+354 433 1065 info@akranes.is www.visitakranes.is
51
To u r i s m , C u lt u r e
and
Business
I s s u e 19 • 2013
Step Back in Time
A stay in Hótel Flatey is a trip into the life of the past
I
t seems that time stopped sometime about a century ago when you get off the Baldur ferry in Flatey. Life is slow here, far from the frenetic pace of most of the world’s cities. You feel a wave of peace and calm flow over your spirit as you walk past small coloured cottages, with the sheep grazing just outside their doors.
Life goes on without the Internet
Was there life before the Internet? Here, there is freedom from the tyranny of email and the web—and it’s a real relief. The world goes on and you really miss very little of it. It seems out of place to even have a laptop or mobile phone here.
A rich history and culture
The island of Flatey is the largest of the thousa nds of isla nds in t he mystica l Breiðafjörður Bay. It has been inhabited since the days of the Settlement. This small community has a rich history. It had it’s own church and doctor and it’s library held a treasury of old manuscripts. The library still stands today behind the church and has been an inspiration for authors, musicians and artists for centuries.
The Hótel with a History
Hótel Flatey started life as a ‘pakkhús’, or warehouse for the goods brought by large sailing ships that moored in the natural harbour. Today, it has 11 rooms, consisting of 1 large family room, 3 suites and 7 double rooms for the many visitors who want to spend a little more time on the island. The rooms retain the style of the past, complete with magazines from the early 1960s. It’s popular with photographers for the island’s rich birdlife and interesting landscapes and birds unafraid to approach the house. The restaurant has been used for many purposes: It began life as a warehouse, then a meeting house, a radio communication house, young people’s association, gym and theatre. It is still used for music concerts of every genre, especially on the weekends. Downstairs, there used to be a salt storage and a place for tanning sheep skins. Now converted to a bar—the Salt Bar, you’ll be reminded of your childhood with seats from the old school, the wooden vaulting box and benches from the old church. It’s full of character and good drinks.
A Summertime Special
The Hótel is open from the end of May and closes at the end of August. Nowadays, only the two farming families stay on the island throughout the year. They still raise the sheep to be seen wandering on the island. –
Hótel Flatey Flatey • 345 Flatey
+354 555 7788 info@Hótelflatey.is www.Hótelflatey.is
52
www.icelandictimes.com
ASF
Meet The Ocean’s Big Five Láki Tours takes you to meet the whales and more
A
nyone who has met them will agree that whales are amazing animals— especially seen close up. Whether they be orcas, humpbacks, minke or pilot whales— or dolphins, for that matter, meeting them is a real experience.
Basking in the Bay
Grundarfjörður and Ólafsvík lie on the mystical Breiðafjörður Bay—a fantasy world of countless islands, birds, fish, dolphins and whales. They are sighted almost daily through the year here. Recently, for instance, 100 pilot whales put on a show for visitors aboard Láki’s boat. Such a high rate of sighting a range of these maritime creatures makes this area tops for both experience and photo opportunities. The tour to the whales leaves from Ólafsvík.
Fins and Feathers
While the whales are very popular, the tour to the islands to see the birdlife and catch some fish is not to be missed. Sea angling is a lot of fun, if you haven’t tried it—and if you catch your dinner yourself you can certainly
guarantee its freshness. You’re in the perfect position to spot any whales or dolphins who There is wildlife in the area that you won’t are curious enough to see what you’re up to want to miss from killer whales and diving and if you’re taking their dinner! gannets to the fox and the white-tailed eagle. The photographers on this tour will have a feast of their own, with so many photo opportunities including, of course, the elusive little puffin. This 3–4 hour tour from Grundarfjörður on the Láki is an experience that many want to repeat. During the summer months, as the evening sun paints the sky red, the bay takes on a wholly different, romantic character. Sea angling in this setting is quite special, too.
Staying at the Hótel Framnes, situated right by the bay, is a very good choice, as it perfectly located for whale watching. It is a comfortable, homey hotel that provides very friendly and personal service. You can watch the sky changing over the bay in the evening as you relax in the hot pot. Its restaurant offers delicious freshly-caught fish on its Stay by the Bay gourmet menu. Tours on the Láki are not all that this area Open all year round, the hotel makes a has to offer. It is very popular for hikers, very good base for all your activities on and photographers, bird watchers and horse around the peninsula. – ASF riders, as all these activities are available— not to mention tours up onto the famous Láki Tours Snæfells glacier. No one has yet replicated Nesvegi 6 • 350 Grundarfjörður +354 438 6893 Jules Verne’s ‘Journey to the Centre of the framnes@hotelframnes.is www.lakitours.com Earth’ but the glacier is spectacular.
www.icelandictimes.com
53
To u r i s m , C u lt u r e
and
Business
I s s u e 19 • 2013
The Draw of the West
Reykjavik Excursions tour the fantasy world of West Iceland
68
www.icelandictimes.com
W
ho would ever believe that such a small island could have such diversity? Its geology, geography, bird and animal life, culture, history and even its weather all contribute to a land that is so much larger than just the sum of its parts. Most visitors land at Keflavik international airport and take the FlyBus into Reykjavik. But the capital is not the country, so many take the famous Golden Circle Tour to Þingvellir, Geysir and Gulfoss - but neither is even the Golden Circle the country.
Four Ways to the West
Reykjavik Excursions offers an ever broader range of tours and here, we are going west on their four different tours to the Snæfellsnes peninsula, made famous by Jules Verne’s ‘Journey to the Centre of the Earth’. Its snow-capped volcanic mountain with its glacier glistens in the sunlight, clearly visible from Reykjavik on clear days. Breiðafjörður Bay, on the north side, looks as it has been taken from a fantasy film. Dotted with thousands of islands, the flat calm may be broken at any time by a school of dolphins or a family of whales after the many fish that call the bay their home.
The Wonders of Snæfellsnes
This is a full day tour all the way around the Snæfellsnes peninsula. I took this trip and learnt more in one day than in all the ten years I had been visiting the area. The views are absolutely stunning. From mountain ra nge s to g reen pla ins, dot ted w it h picturesque farms, to cliffs, packed with screaming birdlife to placid rock-strewn beaches where curious seals observe you as much as you enjoy them and seascapes, where dolphins and whales may be seen just offshore, to awesome rock formations and the massive Snæfellsjökull - the volcano and glacier towering over all, with its impressive lava field reaching down to the sea, scarring the land. There are waterfalls, fishing villages, quaint restaurants and historical sites that make this a very inspiring tour.
get close to the islands where gray seals sunbathe on the rocky outcroppings, the colourful puffin has his home - when he is not diving for fish to feed his fast-growing family and the multitudes of varieties of other seabirds and waterfowl nest. The boat offers unparalleled photographic possibilities and an adventure to remember.
Wonders at Sea
This tour also takes you to a number of the islands where you can also see the birdlife in a larger vessel. A unique and very popular meal is provided: Viking Sushi. A special net is cast over the stern of the boat and brings up a variety of scallops, sea urchin roe and other delicacies that you can eat straight out of the sea. You can’t get fresher than that! You get to see a lot on this two-and-a-halfhour cruise of this mystical bay.
The Fisherman’s Village
Many people enjoy exploring a traditional f ish i ng v i l la ge, t h is tou r g ive s t hat opportunity. Stykkishólmur is a fascinating place, with many classic wooden houses from the 19th and early 20th centuries; restaurants - including one that has hosted several kings, queens and presidents over the years; a museum at the Norwegian house and the fascinating new Volcano museum, including the collections of world-renowned vulcanologist, Prof. Haraldur Sigurðsson. The views from the village vantage points are spectacular. I’m planning a return trip this summer, as there’s a lot more to see.
Take the scenic route through history
These three tours return to Reykjavik by a route that takes in the coastline before turning into the beautiful farming valleys. There’s a possibility to stop at one of the farms that produces the most delicious ice cream. Don’t miss it! This area was often cut off during winter months as the road climbs high into the mountain range before descending to the historical town of Borgarnes, where the tours stop for a visit to the Settlement Centre, the award winning Three choices to Stykkishólmur exhibition of life in Settlement times, with recorded iPod tours in numerous languages. The Ocean Tour While Reykjavik Excursions offers many For those who are keen to see the bird and tours to different parts of the country, the sea life, this new tour specialises in getting tour to the West is one of my favourites. – ASF up close and personal with nature. To see the rare White-tailed eagle, once almost Reykjavik Excursions extinct, in its natural habitat is just one of BSI Bus Terminal • 101 Reykjavík +354 580 5400 the experiences this tour offers. The new main@re.is www.re.is 12-seater boat is compact enough to really
www.icelandictimes.com
69
To u r i s m , C u lt u r e
and
Business
I s s u e 19 • 2013
Birdwatchers’ Paradise
A wide variety of species nest around both the coastline of Reykhólahreppur and on the islands of Breidafjorður Bay. One of the most impressive are the majestic and elusive whitetailed eagles Reykhólahreppur:OverlookingBreiðafjörðurfromtheWestfjords (haliaeetus albicilla), that both nest in the area he Westfjords’ south coast holds one including a campsite, stores, museums, a unique and can be seen flying over Reykhólar. of Iceland’s hidden pearls. It’s a small, seaweed spa at Sjávarsmiðjan and a geothermal peaceful community with both natural swimming pool. The oldest summer hotel in Uncountable Islands phenomena and a grand landscape. Over Iceland, Hotel Bjarkalundur, provides quality Some say Breidafjörður Bay’s islands are a dozen fjords surround the island-dotted accommodation, dining and picturesque views. uncountable though cartographers estimate mystical Breidafjörður Bay with its beautiful Throughout history Reykhólar has been there are around 3,000. Eyjasigling at Reykhólar scenery, historical and poetic references and home to many of Iceland’s most prominent offers cruises to inhabited islands and those exceptional birdlife. chieftains and is frequently mentioned in the uninhabited except for the plethora of birds. – VAG Icelandic sagas. A Service Centre with a History Flatey Island is an important cultural site. A Reykhólahreppur Two and a half hour’s drive from Reykjavik on visit takes you back to the year 1900. Reminders Reykhólar • 380 Reykhólahreppur +354 434 7880 paved roads, Reykhólar village is the county’s of past times include a monastery built in 1172 skrifstofa@reykholar.is www.reykholar.is centre, providing a full range of services, and Iceland’s first library built in 1864.
Mystic History T
B1, B 2 , B 6 , B12 , C, E, K, pantothenic acid, folic acid, and niacin. They are an important supply of 60 trace elements and an excellent source of over 12 minerals, especially sodium, potassium, calcium, magnesium, phosphorus, iron, zinc and manganese. Other health benefits of seaweed baths include reduction of tension, muscle pain and fatigue, improved circulation, aiding Sjávarsmiðjan’s Seaweed therapy brings health and relief weight loss and cellulite control and easing f just the word ‘spa’ evokes feelings of Add to this the wonderful proven health menopausal discomforts. Those with asthma, comfort and well-being, you should benefits of seaweed gel and you will come out arthritis, insomnia, inflammation, dermatitis try the real thing—especially after a day’s rejuvenated, with your skin as soft as silk, and psoriasis find great improvements. – ASF hiking in the beautiful Reykhólar area, with strengthened and with improved elasticity. its birds, seals and whales—not to mention Seaweed detox if ies t he body by Sjávarsmiðjan the spectacular countryside. Soaking in stimulating the release of excess body fluids. Vesturbraut 2 • 380 Reykhólar +354 577 4800 Sjávarsmiðjan’s hot pots, with its natural Toxins are replaced by minerals. Scientists sjavarsmidjan@sjavarsmidjan.is www.sjavarsmidjan.is hot water, is both relaxing and invigorating. report that Seaweeds are rich in vitamins A1,
Soft as Silk Spa I
64
www.icelandictimes.com
Trolls and the Hidden People
The Western Fjords are a world apart, as reflected in the folk tale of the trolls who tried to dig this mountainous peninsula away from the mainland to establish a troll colony, free of men and their meddling. The landscape is a mixture of deep narrow fjords, high mountains and luscious green plants. Tall cliffs, teeming with birdlife rise sharply Hotel Bjarkalundur is at the entrance to the West Fjords from the deep blue sea. Enjoy a respite at Bjarkalundur before n d e r t h e m a j e s t i c Va ð a l f j ö l l A World Apart mountain, with its two distinctive Bjarkalundur is conveniently located to stop and after experiencing the amazing charm tops of volca nic ba sa lt plugs, nestles for a breather before entering Iceland’s most of the West Fjords and their people. You Bjarkalundur, the oldest country hotel in remote region, the West Fjords. The hotel has, will find it just off Road 60. – SS Iceland. Surrounded by an ancient birch throughout its history, welcomed guests and wood, the hotel’s immediate environment made them comfortable. In the past, dances Hótel Bjarkalundur is friendly and welcoming. This historic and were held during the summer months and Bjarkalundi • 380 Reykhólahreppi +354 434 7762 popular resting spot has served Icelanders still the Midsummer Night bonfire is an event bjarkalundur@bjarkalundur.is www.bjarkalundur.is and foreign guests for sixty-six years. enjoyed by local people and travellers alike.
Iceland’s Oldest Country Hotel
U
Peace with Nature and Birds Hótel Látrabjarg brings back the simple joys of life
O
n E u r o p e ’s w e s t e r n – m o s t t ip, Hóte l L át r a bja r g i s s e t a m id s t a photo g r a phe r’s a nd bi rd w atc he r’s paradise at the furthermost point of the Westfjords. It’s a rugged countryside here, with sheer cliffs rising high above the fjords. Although the road is paved from the ferry terminal to Patreksfjörður, the nearest town, from the end of the fjord,
a gravel road takes you to the beaches of Rauðasandur, the bird cliffs of Látrabjarg and the hotel. The route is studded with spectacular vistas, ending in a bay that, with its curved white sand beach and clear blue waters looks as if it belongs in a travel brochure for the Caribbean. The hotel has a commanding view of the fjord, where whales can sometimes be seen,
www.icelandictimes.com
and of the bay and valley below, where sheep graze peacefully. It’s an almost idyllic situation during the summer months, when it is open from 15th May to 20th September. It was originally built as a boarding school for local children. Although it can handle up to 40 guests, owners Karl and Sigríður like to maintain a close, homely atmosphere and therefore do not take groups during the high season. This has made it popular with individuals who appreciate its simple style, delicious meals and tranquil surroundings, with their constantly changing colours. –
ASF
Hótel Látrabjarg Fagrihvammur • 451 Patreksfirði
+354 456 1500 info@latrabjarg.com www.latrabjarg.com
65
Interview with a Whale
AnincrediblestoryfromtheWestfjordsbyMagnúsKristjánsson
O
n the first weekend of August in 2009, which is a national holiday in Icela nd, I had a n experience that h a s c h a n ge d my l i fe. I wa s st ay i ng with my family on the Hella farm in Steingrímsfjörður in the Westfjords. It’s a wonderful place where you can immerse yourself in nature, and listen to the grass growing. On the far side of the fjord you’ll find Hólmavík, a fishing village with a few hundred inhabitants. At the mouth of the fjord there is Drangsnes with a similar population, and f inally, the island of Grimsey, which is only inhabited by puffins.
58
Adventure in the morning
On this morning, our kids had made their way to the beach early, looking for adventure. Usually nothing happens when you are looking for adventure. But this morning was ver y different. Our k ids found a wha le on t he Hveravík beach. A real blue whale that was still alive, blowing water fountains into the air. We all rushed to the beach and gazed at one of the largest living animals in the world, right in front of us. It must have been hunting for mackerel a nd got too close to the beach and became stranded in the shallow water. Mackerel have previously not been so far north,
www.icelandictimes.com
but marine scientists believe that the increased temperature of the oceans is responsible for this new development.
With the whale in the water
I dressed in my wetsuit, my friends tied a rope around my waist to secure me and I started wading through the water to t he colossu s. W hat a n incred ible feeling to touch him, to sit on his back, to feel its gurgling and bubbling, while little fountains of water escaped from its blowholes! It seemed like the whale knew exactly that we wanted to help. T h at w a s not e a s y, a s it mu s t h ave weighed 200 tons.
To the rescue!
The 20-ton MS Sundhani from Drangsnes came to our aid and, with the help of the approaching high tide we would try to drag the whale into deeper water. We tied a rope around its tail and succeeded, using all the machinery to the full, to actually move the colossus. It responded initially with some panic movements, which is understandable, but then it calmed down and followed the ship out into the fjord. Half of the rescue of this magnificent creature was done!
Magic between whale and human
In the end, the removal of the rope was rather a larger problem, and we finally decided to
just cut it. This was the start of the second incredible story, as the whale remained close to the ship. Not only that but it swam around it several times and picked up the rope with its head, as if it wanted us to understand that the loose, hanging rope would cause its death. So I went into the water one last time—this time on my own and in full confidence that the whale would trust me. And the miracle happened—the whale lay calmly in the water and waited, until I had removed the rope. Only then did it swim quietly away. Later, from the beach, I could watch my friend for a long time, breaking through the waters of the fjord, on his way to freedom. We both learned a lot that day.
www.icelandictimes.com
Focus on French
Magnús company, Aðalsendibílar focusses on the needs of French visitors, with all the guides being graduates in French.
Tours for groups large and small
Tours run throughout the year, with vehicles to suit the conditions and the groups’ needs. Whether a coach for large groups or SuperJeeps for smaller groups, the tours visit all the main sites and custom tours are a speciality. –
DT/ASF
Islande.is-Aðalsendibílar Víkurhvarfi 2 • 112 Reykjavik
+354 778 8600 magnus@islande.is www.islande.is
59
To u r i s m , C u lt u r e
and
Business
I s s u e 19 • 2013
Where Monsters Rule
joined on-screen by academic theories on the nature of sea monsters, while a variety of relics and artefacts relating to this mysterious branch Sea Monster Museum of Bíldudalur of zoology appear throughout the museum as a les of sea monsters have played This fjord is reputed to be one of the most prolific tangible evidence for their existence. an important and colourful role in centres of monster activity in the country. Those with monster appetite will appreciate Icelandic folk culture for centuries, and Visitors to the Sea Monster Museum watch the museum’s cafeteria which offers a range of several written accounts of them can be these remarkable creatures brought to life light refreshments and snacks. – SV found in all parts of the country. through a lively mix of words, images and These elusive creatures have been given videos as well as an action-packed multimedia Monster Museum a worthy home at the Iceland Sea Monster display that culminates in a spectacular Dalbraut 1 • 465 Bíldudalur +354 894 1684 Museum, located in the village of Bíldudalur, interactive map, the first of its kind in Iceland. info@eaglefjord.is www.eaglefjord.is which nestles on the shores of Arnarfjörður fjord. First-hand accounts from eye-witnesses are
T
in and out of Arnarfjörður fjord for decades as a professional trawler fisherman without recognising the scenic beauty. Showing people the amazing things we have here has helped me ‘see’ what I never saw before and to appreciate the things I used to take for granted,” he says.
Westfjords Revealed
The One-Stop Shop
EagleFjord Tours offer an amazing range of activities which truly makes it a one-stop shop Let EagleFjord Tours in Bíldudalur be your guide for visitors. Whether you like exploring Viking ould you like to take a bath in a culture and business life of the area his whole Age burial sites, sea angling, whale watching, natural hot spring in the Westfjords life but turned his full attention to tourism hiking or great food – Jón at EagleFjord Tours only the locals know? Jón at EagleFjord Tours in 2007. Before, he used to be a commercial offers it all. Visit his website for details. – SV in the village Bíldudalur is the local guide for trawler fisherman, fish factory owner and Arnarfjörður and Tálknafjörður fjords – and shopkeeper. Jón takes great interest in his EagleFjord Travel Service he’s not just an average local guide. surroundings, the nature, history and culture Dalbraut 1 • 465 Bíldudalur +354 894 1684 Jón loves showing visitors his part of the for some time and visitors help him appreciate info@eaglefjord.is www.eaglefjord.is world. He has been submerged in the local it even more. “I used to sail back and forth
W
66
www.icelandictimes.com
Hótel Ísafjörður
Hótel Ísafjörður is all about comfort – a three star hotel with splendid views, a quality restaurant, lift, airport bus, fully equipped rooms with showers and a 24-hour reception. For those who want to go all out, the deluxe room is the way to go.
Accommodation for All A Platform for Your Westfjord Excursions
B
eing one of the most remote regions you’re likely to find, one might suspect that it could prove to be a challenge to find suitable accommodation deep in the Westfjords of Iceland. Quite to the contrary, the village of Ísafjörður now boasts of three different options, each suited to different needs and tastes, which make for the perfect base from which to explore the winding fjords and extreme landscapes visitors are likely to enjoy to the fullest.
Heydalur
Valagil Álftafjörður
The Old Guesthouse
Gamla gistihúsið, or the Old Guesthouse, is aptly named, as it is located in a house dating all the way back to 1896, which is quite old according to Icelandic standards. The rustic atmosphere makes for a cosy and affordable stay for weary travellers, singles and families alike, but even though the house is over a century old, it is up to modern standards and has free Wi-Fi. Backpackers and those travelling on a shoestring would be well advised to check out their sleeping bag option.
Vigur
Hótel Horn
Hótel Horn is a brand new hotel opening its doors this summer. It offers a total of 24 fully equipped rooms, including family rooms with small kitchen areas. No visitor should feel left out in the cold in Ísafjörður and the Westfjords await. –
VAG
Hótel Ísafjörður Silfurtorg 2 • 4 Ísafjörður
+354 456 4111
info@hotelisafjordur.is www.hotelisafjordur.is
Litlibær in Skötufjörður
Arctic Fox Centre
A beautiful area to visit
• A wide range of wildlife • Many hiking trails • Helpful tourist services • Arctic Fox Centre celebrates its 3rd anniversary on 9th June • ‘Deep Fjord Day’ on the 3rd August. • Blueberry Days will be held from 16 – 18th August
Raggagarður
Reykjanes
Fox
Seals at Hvítanes
www.icelandictimes.com
See you in
Súðavík
www.sudavik.is
Puffin
Campsite in Súðavík
67
To u r i s m , C u lt u r e
and
Business
I s s u e 19 • 2013
Iceland’s First Settler T
he arctic fox is an enchanting creature. At some point in the distant past, it travelled across the frozen sea and, in spite of the inhospitable climate, found a home on this small, isolated island. The arctic fox is Iceland’s only native terrestrial land mammal and has been the subject of curiosity by scholars and lay people alike. For this reason, The Arctic Fox Centre was established in the village of Súðavík in 2010, since the fox is commonly found in the area.
Exhibition of the first native
The Centre is located in the oldest house in Súðavík, a 120 year-old farm that was renovated by the local authorities and is situated between what locals call the ‘old village’, destroyed in a devastating avalanche in 1995, and the ‘new village’, built in its stead at a safe distance from the mountain.
The Centre serves as an educational and cultural hub and offers an extensive exhibition on the arctic fox as well as regularly exhibiting local arts and crafts. Its main aim however, is to collect and preserve everything of importance regarding the arctic fox and its long-lasting relationship with man as surprisingly, fox hunting is the oldest paid occupation in Iceland. The exhibition is divided into three sections: the biology of the fox, the hunting
Vesturof the fox and the hunters themselves, this last mentioned containing, for example, objects and personal accounts from fox hunters. Other material is presented through written text or video and, of course, there are quite a few stuffed animals. Visitors are guided through the exhibition, which is one of a kind in Iceland and open all year round. The Centre is a non-profit business, involved in research and studies on the population of the fox. They also offer guidance on arctic fox tours in collaboration with tourist offices as well as believing in and supporting ecotourism in Iceland. A nice little café at the Centre sells homebaked pastries, light courses and wonderful coffee, which guests can enjoy out on the patio overlooking the beautiful mountains and the sea. The café has open Internet access. On Friday nights, live music is performed in the loft, where it’s nice to sit down for a drink in the cosy atmosphere. The Centre also has a small boutique selling specially made souvenirs and craftwork. –
Artic Fox Centre Eyrardalur • 420 Súðavík
+354 456 4922 melrakki@melrakki.is www.melrakki.is
70
www.icelandictimes.com
HÞ
Images by © Þórður Sigurðsson
The furtive little arctic fox is found in the Westfjords in Súðavík
the women’s dormitory along with the old herring factory and the hotel started there.” Most guests stay at Hótel Djúpavík in search of a nature experience. Many walk from one fjord to another but others use cars, kayaks or boats to get from place to place. Eva and Asbjörn provide guidance and advice on what to see and how to get Hótel Djúpavík, comfort and care at the edge of the world there along with comfort and rest after a ntouched nature and interesting way to live off the land and, when all the long day’s exploration. history are among the attractions of fjords were filled with herring, it became an Djúpavík at Strandir. In this remote part of important player in the hunt for the ‘silver of A Historical Exhibition Iceland, a special breed of people found a the sea’. Now it is a paradise for walkers and The Herring Factory is now the site of nature lovers who come to Hotel Djúpavík Djúpavík’s Historical Exhibition, where old photographs and texts lead viewers through from early spring till autumn. the life and times of people in this quiet cove Old factory and dormitory at the edge of the world. There are guided Hótel Djúpavík was established in 1985 tours provided daily at 10 am and 2pm. – JB when Eva Sig urbjörnsdót tir a nd her husband Ásbjörn Þorgilsson decided to Hótel Djúpavík cultivate guests rather than fish. “We had Djúpavík • 524 Árneshreppur +354 451 4037 planned to start a fish farm but were unable djupavik@snerpa.is www.djupavik.com to get a loan,” says Eva. “We had bought
A Nature Paradise U
West Tours’ clients can choose between many services. If you plan a day trip, a weekend or a longer trip in the Westfjords during summer or winter, West Tours will be happy to make an unforgettable experience happen.
Activities offered in 2013
ATV tours, bike rentals, bird watching, horseback riding, hikes and walks, various kayaking tours, local food tastings, RiBboat safaris, scooter rentals, sea angling, West Tours help you get the most from this amazing area sightseeing tours by car or boat, whale he Westfjords are an amazing peninsula in Hólmavík and in one of the villages in the watching, winter activities, Northern Lights characterized by steep, flat and also southern part of the region during summer. tours and many kinds of package services. peaked mountains between deep blue fjords, West Tours’ objective is the presentation, beautiful colourful beaches with inhabitants marketing and selling of all tourism-related We look forward to seeing you in who make travellers feel warmly welcome. services that are offered all over the peninsula. the Westfjords! West Tours is the most experienced travel West Tours is now owned by about 60 tourismagency and tour operator in the region, related companies and individuals that all, in West Tours celebrating its 20th anniversary in 2013. The some way, are connected to the Westfjords. Aðalstræti 7, 400 Ísafjörður +354 456 5111 West Tours office is based in Ísafjörður and Good co-operation between the companies is westtours@westtours.is www.westtours.is small booking offices are planned to operate seen as the key for a positive outcome.
Westfjords Wonders T
www.icelandictimes.com
71
To u r i s m , C u lt u r e
and
Business
I s s u e 19 • 2013
Kjörbúðin Óspakseyri Open for almost a year, Kjörbúðin Óspakseyri offers traditional goods in the spirit of the old Co-ops. A store like in the old days where advice and assistance is easily available, whether it is regarding a bicycle repair or the nearest internet access. As for merchandise, one can simply find everything from shoelaces, books, coffee & cake, antiques or vinyl records to old shirts. The most romantic shopping opportunity in Iceland!
Bræðrabrekka • 500 Staður
www.facebook.com/kjorbudin
+354 451 3360 / +354 857 4800
Let your eyes wander!
Tangahús Guesthouse
Borðeyri is one of Iceland’s smallest villages with a population of just 25 on the southern part of Strandir, 8 km from the N1 Services on Route 1. The Guesthouse can sleep 23 people, with extra mattresses available for children, if needed. A kitchen, dining room, library, Internet access and laundry are all available. Set very close to the sea, the views are of birds, seals and the fjord.
The Folk Museum of Reykir On display are a number of famous old boats and ships, amongst them the famous shark ship Ófeigur from Ófeigsfjörður. We also show how Icelanders used to live by displaying the living arrangements of an old house named SyðstiHvammur, which used to be near Hvammstangi. Many spectacular 19th - 20th Century pieces are found inside the museum. New & exciting crafts from the local community will be on sale at the museum. On-site restaurant. Reykjagata 6 • 500 Staður reykjsafn@simnet.is
+354 451 0040 www.byggdasafnhos.is
456 48 24 - heydalur@heydalur.is www.heydalur.is
Borðeyri • 500 Staður • +354 451 0011
Heydalur THE PLACE TO BE !
Restaurant with local food - Hotel
Northern lights tours with transport organised -Guided excursions -Thermal spring
Hlaðan
Café & Restaurant & Bar Hlaðan is a cosy café, restaurant and bar specialising in Icelandic home cooking. It’s novel location is in an old restored house that used to be stables and a cow shed, in the centre of Hvammstangi overlooking the harbour and the seashore. Brekkugata 2 • 530 Hvammstangi +354 451 1110
62
hladan@simnet.is
www.icelandictimes.com
Spes Farmers Market A fascinating market with local foods eg. fresh, smoked and dried fish, cheese and jams, handicrafts and special crafts created using ancient Viking methods and materials gleaned from the area. Grettisból • 531 Hvammstangi spes.sveitamarkadur@gmail.com
+354 894 6776 www.northwest.is/spes.asp
A Hidden Gem in Viðidalur Horse-riding and breeding in Stóra-Ásgeirsá
I
f a horse-breeder is situated between a mountain called Hrossakambur (horse hill crest) and a valley named Hrossadalur (horse valley), you can expect something special. Magnús Ásgeir Elíasson in StóraÁsgeirsá is deeply into horses. Most of the family business’ 60 Icelandic horses have received first prize breeding honours. The new breeder generation now comes with fresh energy – and sparkling new ideas. The farm is situated in the beautiful Viðidalur, just outside Hvammstangi, a short drive from the Ring road No.1, and close to the extensive fluvial valley of the Víðidalsá river with its rich green pastures and impressive mountain backdrop.
of Eldfari frá Stóra-Ásgeirsá, a grey stallion owned by Magnús’ father Elías. Eldfari is impressive, with high breeding scores and an excellent Skagafjörður pedigree. He displays an elegant high-quality tölt (or running walk). Around 10 foals are born each year, and visitors are welcome to have a closer look at them – and of course, at Eldfari, while he’s doing his job as a sire on the breeding meadow.
Bred for a smooth ride
Icelandic horses are known, not only for their friendly character, but for their additional tölt gait, that guarantees a smooth and comfortable riding experience over long distances. The focus in Magnús’ breeding lies on an The grey stallion easy-going and flowing tölt and on good riding Flocks of fine horses are grazing on the qualities – for sport horses as well as for family farmland. Many of them are the offspring horses. Horse-enthusiasts who appreciate the
horse types of northern Iceland will find the horse of their dreams either among Magnús’ own stock or with his assistance, as he knows exactly where to find the right horse.
Horseback tours
First and foremost, Magnús likes to have a good time. You should really share this desire – and join him on horseback in his brand new horse rental company, on trips around the lovely Viðidalur. Here he will help you experience not only the amazing tölt of his horses, but also the beautiful landscape in every direction you look. Do you have some dream about riding? Let Magnús know. His horses are friendly and willing, and he will offer a custom-made riding tour, following your wishes. Accommodation ca n be provided on farms in the neighbourhood and, in the evenings, you will be amazed as Magnús grabs his guitar and starts to sing Icelandic folk songs or country music. That’s Iceland: hidden talents in remote valleys, and Magnús is no exception. Explore Iceland the way you want to see it—on horseback in Stóra-Ásgeirsá. –
DT
Stóra-Ásgeirsá Horse Rental Stóra Ásgeirsá • 531 Hvammstangi
+354 866 4954
storaasgeirsa@gmail.com www.topicelandichorses.com
www.icelandictimes.com
63
To u r i s m , C u lt u r e
and
Business
I s s u e 19 • 2013
Horses, History & Nature
Skagafjörður–DiverseNature,GreatAdventuresandHistoricalExperiences
W
hen the Icelandic traveller thinks of Skagafjörður, what undoubtedly comes to mind is the steep, picturesque cliff of Drangey, which towers majestically in the midst of the big fjord from which the district derives its name. Resulting from countless references to Drangey both in history and culture, this small island is firmly embedded in the Icelandic psyche. S ec ond ly, wh at c ome s to m i nd i s the Icelandic horse. Skagafjörður is an important breeding place for this beautiful, humble servant that enabled people to survive throughout the centuries in harsh conditions. These two distinctive features frame the different possibilities Skagafjörður has to offer; an area of natural wonders and an abundance of cultural and recreational activities.
An important historical area
Skagafjörður is a municipality in the North of Iceland which covers the area from most of the peninsulas creating the fjord itself to the broad valley that bears the name of the fjord and goes all the way to
78
the highlands. Thus, it is an area of great natural variety with steep mountains, fertile inlands and a varied coastal environment. The biggest town the area of Skagafjörður is Sauðakrókur after which come the village of Hofsós and other smaller villages. Skagafjörður could also be said to be the centre of a historic circle ranging from Blönduós, west of Skagafjörður to Siglufjörður in the north and Akureyri in the east. Hólar í Hjaltadal, the old bishopric of the North, in fact used to be the most important in the North. Many who served as bishops of the North are arguably some of Iceland’s most important figures.
Sites of Interest
The battle of Örlygsstaðir, the biggest battle in the history of Iceland, also took place in Skagafjörður, when the great families in the age of Sturlungs fought. Historic facts such as these can be learned in Skagafjörður through various museums and places of historic importance. For example, the turf farmhouse at Glaumbær shows clearly how life used to be in rural Iceland; the
www.icelandictimes.com
Minjahúsið museum in Sauðarkrókur is unique for showing how artisans’ workshops used to be and the Icelandic Emigration Centre in Hofsós focuses on the mass emigration from Iceland to North-America in the 19th century.
The Bad need Somewhere to Be
This cliff in Skagafjörður certainly has a mystic character to it. According to old folktales, the cliff itself is an old female troll who turned to stone at daybreak while traversing the fjord, as trolls can’t handle sunlight. Grettir, in the famous Icelandic saga bearing his name, was an extremely strong but ill-tempered man, who ended his days in Drangey as an outlaw. One of the historic bishops at Hólar, Guðmundur the Good decided he was going to bless all of Iceland by ridding the land of vile beings. But once, as he hung from the cliffs of Drangey, to expedite this work, the story says that a big hand came out of the cliff and grabbed him. He heard a voice say, “the bad ones need somewhere to be.” The bishop decided not to bless Drangey.
This story does not frighten the locals, Drangey while swimming in the warm who go every Spring to collect eggs and birds water of the pool. on the cliffs of Drangey. Skagafjörður has, in total, seven pools across the area as well as various hot springs An inspiring way to enjoy water to bathe in, the most famous one being By Hofsós, you can find a great way to enjoy Grettislaug at Reykir. the view of Drangey. The new swimming pool is a masterpiece of design. Once you Being in Nature among Horses and Birds are in the pool you get the impression Skagafjörður is a fitting place to enjoy that you are swimming to the sea and to horses. Not only do the various horse-riding companies in the area provide a variety of trips but you can also visit a breeding farm, see horse shows and even experience a horse corral if you are in Skagafjörður at the right time of year! Skagafjörður is a nice area to explore on horseback. There are many uninhabited places not too far from town providing you with the tranquility to enjoy nature. Whether you like a short trip, or a multiday excursion to the highlands, you will be able to experience it here. There are various other ways to enjoy the nature of Skagafjörður; watching and listening to the rich birdlife, pumping some adrenaline in your body by river rafting in
www.icelandictimes.com
the glacial rivers, hike the various trails in the area or sail on a boat to Drangey and Málmey. At the end of a day, you can visit one of the many restaurants in the area serving high-quality food made under the Food Chest concept, which encourages the eating of local produce. Whether you are travelling with the whole family, by yourself or with your partner or friends, Skagafjörður has something for everybody! –
NNH
Skagafjörður Skagfirðingabraut 21 • 550 Sauðárkrókur
+354 455 6000
skagafjordur@skagafjordur.is www.skagafjordur.is
79
The Herring Museum The Herring Era Museum in Siglufjörður is an award-winning museum bringing to life the ‘glory days’ of Iceland’s herring fishing industry in three different buildings. Snorragötu 16 • 580 Siglufirð
+354 467 1604
safn@sild.is
www.sild.is
The FolkmusicCentre
Traditional Icelandic music and folk dance. Folk Music Festival 3rd-7th July Open daily, June- August from 12-18
Allinn
Allinn restaurant specialises in Icelandic home cooking and pizzas. It is situated in a beautifully restored house overlooking Siglufjörður’s main square. It is reasonably priced and suits people of all ages.
Norðurgötu 1 • 580 Siglufirði +354 467 2300
www.folkmusik.is
Aðalgata 30 • 580 Siglufjörður
+354 467 1111
Niels Whale watching Daily from Hauganes in North Iceland from 25 May – 5 Sept. at 09:30 and from 25 June – 20 August at 18:00 Sailing on the beautiful, long and narrow fjord of Eyjafjörður in search of whales. A unique opportunity to enjoy witnessing whales, fish and birds in their natural habitat on board a traditional Icelandic oak boat. On every tour we also offer our guests to try catching some fish, if interested. This is a fully guided tour and includes coffee and homemade pastries.
Hauganesi • 621 Dalvík niels@niels.is
72
www.icelandictimes.com
+354 867 0000 www.niels.is
The Arctic Bow
Mystic Beauty Thebeautyofthenortherntownswiththeirvibrantlifestyle
Hannes Boy and Kaffi Rauka Among the top restaurants in the north of Iceland offer traditional specialities. Relax by the harbourside Rauðka restaurant—food—live music
Gránugata 5 • 580 Siglufjörður
+354 467 1550
raudka@raudka.is
Singing in the Silence
On the Troll Peninsula, Hotel Brimnes surrounds you with nature
I
t’s as if the birds know the photographers and nature lovers are coming. They put on their most colourful attire and their singing can be heard all around the lake and surrounding mountains at this time of year. We’re up in the north of Iceland, on the banks of Ólafsfjörður lake. The view is stunning, like a picture postcard - but it’s real. Hotel Brimnes has recently refurbished its 11 hotel rooms. Its 8 popular log cabins
on the lake’s edge, each with its own private hot tub fed by a nearby geothermal source, accommodate families or groups of up to six, who love to go trout fishing, kayaking, diving, horse riding, hiking or cycling around this beauty spot.
A picture of tranquility and beauty
On a still day, the lake is like a mirror, reflecting the surrounding mountains on its surface. It’s a place to come to be refilled,
www.icelandictimes.com
www.raudka.is
far from the madding crowd of cities and smog. The pristine beauty restores the soul and provides a different perspective on life. Of course, the world is out there and, if you need it, there is free WiFi in all the rooms. The hotel’s restaurant provides delicious meals with ingredients from the area and has a great wine selection to go with them.
The Arctic Bow
This part of North Iceland, known as the Actic Bow, is also known for its spectacular scenery. With the opening of the new tunnels, access to the whole Troll Peninsula is easy. Spring, Summer, Autumn or Winter, you will find plenty to enjoy here. –
ASF
Brimnes Hótel Bylgjubyggð 2 • 625 Ólafsfjörður
+354 466 2400 hotel@brimnes.is www.brimnes.is
73
To u r i s m , C u lt u r e
and
Business
I s s u e 19 • 2013
The Arctic Bow
Amazing range of scenes, history and nature
T
he Arctic Bow is the name of the remarkable 184 km scenic and historic route along Tröllaskagi (Troll Peninsula) on the north coast of Iceland, stretching from Varmahlíð in the west to Akureyri in the east, passing through the recently built 11 km long tunnels between the towns of Siglufjörður and Ólafsfjörður. Along this route, there’s beautiful nature, excellent accommodation, fresh local food and a variety of activities to enjoy.
Hólar
A small university community and episcopal see started in the early 12h century. The current cathedral dates back to 1763 and those interested in Icelandic horses will surely enjoy the Icelandic Horse History Centre. The nearby village of Hofsós hosts the Icelandic Emigration Centre and an award-winning swimming pool, neatly located on the seaboard.
the comfort of one of Rauðka’s excellent harbour-side restaurants with stunning views of nature.
Ólafsfjörður
Also known for its stunningly beautiful surroundings, it is best enjoyed on foot. Visitors can choose to hike with a map and a compass, or make use of one of the sign-posted hiking routes. Scheduled whale watching trips are available in summer and kayaks and bikes can be rented at the quiet Brimnes hotel and bungalows by the town’s beautiful lake.
Dalvík
In Eyjafjörður, Dalvík’s annual August event, The Great Fish Soup Day, is attended by thousands who enjoy the free seafood soup and entertainment for the whole family. Dalvik’s Hvoll Folk Museum provides insight into the life and work of the local people. Amongst other things, it Siglufjörður commemorates ‘Jói the Giant’, the tallest Best known for its ‘Herring Era’ in the Icelander ever, thought to have been 231 cm. 40’s and 50’s. Visitors can watch local Sea angling and whale watching tours are boats bringing in the catch of the day from available from Dalvik’s pier; horseriding tours
74
www.icelandictimes.com
can be taken in the Svarfadardalur nature reserve and a ferry sails from Árskógsandur to the beautiful island of Hrísey.
Grímsey
Grímse y Isla nd is t he nor t hernmost settlement of Iceland. The Arctic Circle c ro s s e s t h i s sm a l l i s l a nd w ho s e 9 0 inhabitants depend on the fishing industry. The island can be reached by ferry from Dalvík and by air from Akureyri.
The Photographers’ dream
The Trollaskagi peninsula, and its islands of Hrísey, Grímsey, Málmey and Drangey are renowned for an amazing birdlife. Photographers interested in photographing the birds should register and participate in the ‘Bird for a million’ photo contest. There is a ISK 1 million cash price for the winner. Visit www.birdforamillion.com for more – SHV information about the contest.
On Top of the World
Siglufjörður Hostel provides great accommodation for travellers
F
ormerly one of the most glamorous hotels in Iceland in the hey-day of the herring bonanza in the 1930s, Hvanneyri guesthouse and hostel is still, today, the place to stay when you are far north of Iceland in Siglufjörður on the Troll peninsula. Today, it is a family-owned and run hostel and it has that feeling of staying in a warm, comfortable family home with helpful family members who take an interest in you.
Whether you are travelling alone, with a family or in a group, you will find a friendly welcome and comfortable stay for budgetconscious travellers with all the facilities one expects in a modern guesthouse and hostel. That includes free Wi-Fi, parking, a barbeque grill, a guest kitchen—and free coffee, too. This has been an international centre since it was built. Its reputation has spread across the
Just Opened
SiglunesGuesthouseoffersacomfortablestaywithanoldworldcharm
A
new guesthouse just opened in the very north of Iceland, in Siglufjörður. The building has been totally renovated and yet, with the wood panelling in the bar and lounge and the old style furniture, you feel you have stepped back in time. The beds a re a ll new, high qua lit y and very comfortable - something you’ll appreciate after travelling or hiking in the mountains. The second and third f loor bedrooms all have private bathrooms and
a mountain view. The six rooms on the ground floor have shared bathrooms. All have Wi-Fi access. Siglunes Guesthouse provides healthy choices for break fasts throughout the ye a r. For a d ay out h i k i ng or ot her outdoor activities, they can provide food packs and from mid-June until the end of August, the restaurant will be open for dinners in the evenings. Where possible, locally grown food is offered.
www.icelandictimes.com
continents and it is a hub for travellers of all nations, some of whom return year after year. L oc ate d on t he m a i n st re e t , it i s surrounded by the town’s bakery, restaurants and shops, making it a perfect place to set up base for hiking or photography—or just simply enjoying the spectacularly beautiful countryside with its mountains and fjord. –
ASF
Hvanneyri Guesthouse Adalgata 10 • 580 Siglufjörður
+354 467 1506 order@hvanneyri.com www.hvanneyri.com
Siglufjörður is a good base for hiking and bird photography. The views are nothing short of spectacular at any time of the year and the birdlife is amazingly varied. It is a popular place for sport, culture and history and my personal favourite town for its beauty and friendliness. The trip alone is worth it and it’s a perfect place to stop when taking the scenic ‘Arctic Bow’ route around the north. –
ASF
Siglunes Guesthouse Lækjargata 10 • 580 Siglufjörður
+354 467 1222 info@hotelsiglunes.is www.hotelsiglunes.is
75
To u r i s m , C u lt u r e
and
Business
I s s u e 19 • 2013
Dining with a Harbour View
from being the main catering service of the town, organising all sorts of events, to being a restaurant serving a wide range delicious food at fair prices, such as fish, steaks, hamburgers and pizzas. This spring, this happy hard working family opened the bakery and coffee house, to add to the restaurant. This enables them to be open all day as a bakery and coffee house (from 9 am to 5 pm during the week and 10 am till 4 pm on weekends— including Sunday) and then to be open as a restaurant at lunch time and in the evening or from 6 pm to 9pm or later.
Harbour view restaurant, coffee house and bakery
If you are driving around the Trollskagi peninsula, following the Arctic Bow route around this northern beauty spot, you will naturally want to stop for a break en route and stock up for your travels with delicious snacks. If you have children with you, it’s practically a requirement!
overlooking the lively harbour of Dalvík. In many ways, it is the centre of the action, as it is a popular gathering place for the local community. So, if you are travelling and would like to combine meeting the local people while enjoying a good snack or meal, this is the obvious choice.
Eating and meeting with a view
Dinner, snack or drink
Við höfnina, meaning by the harbour, is a It is run by the cheerful school teacher and cosy family run restaurant, coffee house and cook, Gústaf Adólf Þórarinsson and his a bakery, right in the centre of the action, family. The restaurant has been developing
Try the cumin coffee
In the bakery, a wide variety of freshly baked, healthy breads, buns, sandwiches, pastries and cakes are available. It’s an ideal place to take a break, and stock up for your onward journey or just to relax and enjoy a delicious cake and real hot chocolate, tea or cumin coffee that is traditional in the area. On warm days it is possible to sit outside in a sheltered outdoor area, taking in the sun. Here you are likely to be joined by others and it’s amazing how a friendly place like this can lead to new friendships, forged over something as simple as a cup of coffee. –
AMB/ASF
Við höfnina Hafnarbraut 5 • 620 Dalvík
+354 466 2040 dallas@dallas.is www.dallas.is
76
www.icelandictimes.com
The Old Post Office
Jóa Guesthouse connects people and places
I
n Ólafsfjördur, on the Troll peninsula, a cherry-red heart is beating for guests and travellers. Jóa Guesthouse, in the middle of this beautiful North Iceland town, can easily be found, due to its bright red colour. Once having stepped inside, you don’t want to leave. The town’s old post off ice has been renovated brilliantly by a young couple, Bjarkey and Helgi. They offer six elegant rooms on the first f loor, all of which are furnished with a different type of wooden
floor, that refer back to the old times and which have gained much attention. You will find brand new comfortable beds, basins, closets, and, of course, free WiFi. Dark curtains in front of every window will guarantee a good sleep even through bright Icelandic summer nights. The two bathrooms on the floor are fully equipped.
A Breakfast for exploring
When you wake in the morning and open your curtains, you will enjoy the amazing
panorama across the bay. Then, to start the day off right, you head downstairs into Kaffi Klara, the just recently opened book-café, where guests are served a delicious buffet breakfast to get ready for their day. If you need any help with your plans or directions, you can find any assistance you need at the desk. It is like the old post office has come to a pulsating new life as a place for connecting people and places. –
DT
Jóa Guesthouse Strandgata 2 • 625 Ólafsfjörður
+354 845 2737
gistihusjoa@gmail.com www.joesguesthouse.is
Sweet Memories of Iceland Icelandic Souvenirs Your Friends and Family will Love
O
ne of the things on the “to do” list while visiting Iceland is to pick up some really cool and fun souvenirs for family and friends. To fill this need, Ísland Treasures has a range of souvenir candies to suit almost every taste. Why not pick up a cute box of Icelandic Puffin Eggs for grandma? She will love the beautiful painting of a typical puffin colony on an Icelandic sea cliff and be wowed by the unique taste of the combination of chocolate and liquorice that is so popular with Icelanders. That golf–playing uncle would just be thrilled to receive the funny golfers’ version of Icelandic Puffin Eggs with the puffin and the golfer confused over which white ball is theirs. Friends at work might like some Icelandic Lava Sparks—traditional Icelandic toffee in a red crispy shell which come packed with an amazing painting of Eyjafjallajökull er upt i ng i n 2010 or Ic ela nd ic L ava Pebbles—traditional Icelandic liquorice toffee with a hint of chocolate wrapped in
a black crispy shell packed with a beautiful painting of Skógafoss waterfall. Hopefully you will get the chance to view the Northern Lights dancing across the Icelandic skies on your visit but if not, why not take home some Icelandic Northern Lights—hand made, all natural, peppermint sugar candies in the amazing colours of the Northern Lights. Available in all the best tourist shops, hotels and the duty free store at Kef lavik airport.
–
ASF
Ísland Treasures Skagabraut 25 • 300 Akranes
+354 612 5065
islandtreasures@gmx.com www.islandtreasures.biz
www.icelandictimes.com
77
To u r i s m , C u lt u r e
and
Business
I s s u e 19 • 2013
The
Northern
Playground Akureyri,theBasetoReachAlltheNorthernSightsandHighlights
80
www.icelandictimes.com
T
he dozen inhabitants in 1786, clinging to the side of Iceland’s longest fjord, Eyjafjörður, probably never imagined their brave struggle would ultimately produce a town of 18,000 people with all the services of a major city. A kureyri is not as big as any of the world’s cities but it provides all the features and services expected of a big city in a very compact form, so that everything is within a short distance. Take, for instance, winter activities like skiing. The family-friendly slopes are under 10 minutes from the airport and the hotels. Likewise the horseriding tours, boat trips, bird watching, shopping—to name a few— are all so close, you can almost touch them. You name it, it’s close-by. The weather, with its combination of crisp, dry snow and Northern Lights—at the peak of their cycle this winter—makes a holiday here memorable.
need them and relax in the club house afterwards.
See the Sights
Akureyri is also a service base for many of the most important tourist destinations in North Iceland. From here, you can visit Mývatn, Dettifoss—the most powerful waterfall in Europe, the islands of Hrisey, with its powerful hea ling energ y and Grímsey, straddling the Arctic Circle, see volcanos and boiling mud pools and, in fact, reach all the pearls of the north in under 2 hours.
Cultural Centre of the North
When it comes to culture, Akureyri has it all: museums, art galleries, international exhibitions, conference facilities, music concerts of all genres, opera, theatres and cinemas showing the latest films. It has well over 20 restaurants, covering both Icelandic and international cuisine, with top chefs who create their own innovative cuisine. Cafés, each with their individual speciality abound, while local microbreweries and farms offering food tasting are a fascinating addition to the food scene. For groups and incentive tours, Akureyri offers such a wide range of activities, events and opportunities, maximising the time available. There are a multitude of tours covering every interest from flying to caving, from fishing to the Hidden People, walking to whale-watching.
Easy Access
Flights from both Keflavik international and Reykjavik airports take just 40 min. Scheduled buses leave from Reykjavik Bus Station. There are numerous tours, some of which go through the highlands during summer months. The bus service is free in town. Nat u ra l ly, e ver y c om mon form of Sports of all kinds transport is available: car, bike, boat, Sport activities are very popular in the horse, ATV, plane rentals. Every type of North and many sports are represented in accommodation is also on hand, from this dynamic community. 4-star hotels to camp sites. The geothermally–heated swimming pools, with their hot pots and jaccuzzi are Akureyri has it all and an outgoing open—and very popular—all year round. friendly welcome, too. – ASF The Arctic Open Golf championship is played on the most northerly 18-hole Akureyrarstofa course in the world, just outside the city Strandgata 12 • 600 Akureyri +354 450 1050 under snow–covered mountains and the akureyrarstofa@akureyri.is www.visitakureyri.is midnight sun. You can hire clubs if you
www.icelandictimes.com
81
To u r i s m , C u lt u r e
and
Business
I s s u e 19 • 2013
Ambassador to the Whales
See the whales from Akureyri’s specialised whale watching ship
T
his is the first year of scheduled tours from Akureyri with the ‘Ambassador’ whale-watching ship. The beautiful town of Akureyri itself, full of old historic houses, is simply captivating.
The Whales’ home
The North of Iceland is home to all the species of whales found around the country. Eyja f jörður, pa rticu la rly, is home to Humpback Whales—gigantic animals who love singing and slapping their fins and tails! It is beautiful to watch these magnificent creatures jump up out of t he ocea n!
Additionally, Minke Whales, Dolphins, and weather by the mountains ensures that it’s Harbour Porpoises and Blue Whales are calmer than the open sea. seen in the fjord.
Sailing with the ‘Ambassador’
The name ‘Ambassador’ refers to its function of connecting whales and humans and it has great viewing facilities to do that. It sails three times a day during summer from Akureyri’s central harbour, next to the Hof cultural house. Tours take from three to four hours, during which you get guidance about the nature of the whales, the sea, the fjord, the mountains—the whole eco-system! Being protected from winds
Eat Vegan in Eyjafjörður
The sailing schedule
Morning tours leave at 8.30, afternoon tours at 13.00—and an evening tour at 20.30, giving you the opportunity to watch the whales and enjoy the bright and beautiful colours of northern evening sun simultaneously! –
NNH/ASF
Ambassador Torfunesbryggja • 600 Akureyri
+354 462 6800 info@ambassador.is www.ambassador.is
hours. Although, if you are there at lunch or dinner time, it makes sense to relax and let the Silva is the only vegan restaurant outside Reykjavik spectacular tranquil views of the valley and fjord he beautiful valley that extends from snacks—cakes, cookies and gluten-free bread, bring peace to your spirit. A kureyri into the countr yside is all without wheat, sugar, dairy or yeast. watered by clear mountain streams and so This is just what a health-conscious family is Learn to make it raw unpolluted, the rich farming land is ideal for looking for: healthy food at a reasonable price. Kristín also runs a series of short courses, growing organic vegetables. So if you’re travelling around Iceland, Silva is just teaching how to create raw food meals yourself. – ASF Just outside Hrafnagil, in the old school 12 km from Akureyri. There is easy access for house on the hill, a new vegan and raw food disabled guests and a children’s play area, too. Silva restaurant has opened. All the food is made They make take-away meals and can have Syðra Laugaland Efra • 601 Eyjafjarðarsveit +354 851 1360 fresh there from Icelandic vegetables. Besides them ready for you if you give them a call before silva@silva.is www.silva.is full meals, they make delicious smoothies and leaving town—even outside normal opening
T
82
www.icelandictimes.com
Where Fitness Folk Eat
Besti bitinn’s fresh food is a hit with health-loving people
C
lose to Akureyri’s walking street and the harbour is a good location for people who want to get their meal quickly but eat something fresh and healthy. Besti bitinn is well known for its fish and chips, so I decided to try, too. It surpassed what I’d heard about it - fresh, firm but soft and full of f lavour. My partner tried the chicken salad and I saw why so many people in the health and fitness community in Akureyri come to eat here.
Healthy food and prices don’t compete
O f c ou r s e , s ome p e ople a r e not s o concerned about their hea lth but just w a nt t o e a t s o m e t h i n g t h a t t a s t e s good and isn’t expensive, so the usual carbonated drinks are also available with their meals. Whether they realise it or not, though, they are eating f ish fresh from the boats that just landed or the chicken that’s never been frozen or lost its food value in the cooking.
The nice thing about this restaurant is that you can sit in a friendly, comfortable at mosphere a nd m i x a nd match t he ingred ient s to you r ow n t a ste when ordering. We liked that and will be joining the regulars whenever we’re in Akureyri. –
ASF
Besti Bitinn Skipagata 2 • 600 Akureyri
+354 578 6400
fiskistjarnan@internet.is on Facebook
prepared and cooked to order on the spot to get the most flavour.
Eat What You Like for Less
Both Krua Siam and Krua Thai are known for their reasonable prices. In addition, Krua Siam offers a full five course lunch buffet every day between 11:30 and 13:30. Here, you can eat all you like for the same good price. With a large range of dishes to choose from, you can eat like a Thai—taking a piece from a number of different dishes. It’s a great way to eat as a family or a group of friends.
The North Eats Thai
Drinks to go with the meal
A number of wines and spirits go well with Thai food, so Krua Siam has a bar and The Popular Krua Siam Restaurant Feeds Folk in Akureyri stocks alcoholic beverages—along with hat inspired experienced Thai cooks Thai, it is easy to find Krua Siam opposite juices and soft drinks. and kitchen assistants to leave the the famous Hof concert hall by the harbour. exotic lands of South East Asia to venture to Catering to the Need the Land of the Vikings, I cannot imagine. Set Apart The restaurant also provides Take Away and But I’m very glad they did. After opening Besides the experienced Thai staff, what sets Home Delivery options, but to get the most the Reykjavik food scene to their unique these restaurants apart is that all the spices, flavour, eat it right away. – ASF blend of Thai ingredients and Icelandic rice and noodles that are uniquely Thai are meats and vegetables, the intrepid cooks brought in directly from Thailand. However, Krua Siam continued north to Akureyri. the meat and vegetables are pure Icelandic Strandgötu 13 • 600 Akureyri +354 466 3800 Established in 2007 and now under the and this is what contributes to the delicious kruasiam@kruasiam.is www.kruasiam.is same management as Reykjavik ’s Krua flavour in every meal. Each meal is freshly
W
www.icelandictimes.com
83
To u r i s m , C u lt u r e
and
Business
I s s u e 19 • 2013
The Country Experience
A Family-friendly stay at Hrafnagil Farm Guesthouse
Y
ou’ll find the village of Hrafnagil just 12 km south of Akureyri in Eyjafjörður. The valley is protected on either side by steep mountains and provides rich farmland and lovely views all the way to the Arctic Sea.
A farm for families
You feel you’re in t he dept hs of t he countryside. It’s a beautiful place to stay and the guesthouse has the added benefit of being part of a working farm, so you’ll see horses outside the windows, sheep on the
hills above, chickens in the yard and cows in the fields across the road, not to mention the cat and dogs. It’s a great opportunity for children to learn about and enjoy farm life. There are cots, changing tables and safety gates in the house for the babies.
A traveller’s rest
The guesthouse is warm and spacious with comfortable beds and a delicious breakfast every morning. The 5 rooms are spacious and the largest bedroom, with 4 beds has
A Guesthouse in the Country The Farm at Ytra Laugaland offers an invigorating stay
I
n the unspoiled valley of Eyjafjörður, some 12 km from Akureyri, the Ytra Laugaland farm has been opening its doors to families and independent travellers for the last five years. The house has large, comfortable
84
rooms: one suite for a family and three twin bedrooms. One of the bathrooms has a jacuzzi—so relaxing after a long day out. The farm was built in 1927 and is beautifully decorated. Owners Óttar and
www.icelandictimes.com
plenty of room for families. There is a large lounge where you can read, write or watch the TV or surf the Internet. Travel lers of a l l a ges we met here spoke very highly of their stay and of the thought and care that went into making them both welcome and comfortable. It’s a very convenient place to base from when travelling the North. –
ASF
Gistihúsið Hrafnagili Hrafnagil • 601 Akureyri
+354 463 1197 hrafnagil@gmail.com www.hrafnagil.is
Vilborg have created a cosy, family-friendly home. The beds have health mattresses for a comfortable sleep and breakfasts are wholesome and healthy for a good start to the day. There are facilities for self-catering and there is a health-food restaurant just a minute’s drive away. Also close by is the swimming pool, less than 5 min away. A TV lounge and Internet access provide access to the outside world, should you need it while the farm is in a most beautiful valley, with a view clear up the fjord to the Arctic Sea. –
ASF
Gistiheimili Vilborgar Ytra-Laugaland • 601 Akureyri
+354 463 1472 hrisey@hrisey.net www.hrisey.net
Guarded by a Firey Dragon The Otherworldly Landscape of Vopnafjörður
I
magine discovering a new land in the north in medieval days where you are met by a mighty flying dragon, protecting it. This was the sight that greeted a Nordic seafarer, according to Heimskringla, an Old Norse kings’ saga. To d ay, Vopn a f jörð u r s t a nd s a s a spectacular example of the grand, harsh, but beautiful, Icelandic landscape. It was first settled by Viking seafarers 1100 years ago. The name, meaning, ‘Weapon Fjord’ comes from a settler called Eyvindur vopni. It also boasts of its own Saga, Vopnfirðinga saga, written around a dispute between local chieftains. The dragon is Vopnafjörður’s symbol and one of the four ‘landvættir’ – guardians of Iceland pictured on Iceland’s coat of arms. The wide sandy coastline hosts a myriad of marine life forms and the magnificent
cliffs and rocky islets of Vopnafjörður are superb. They culminate in natural wonders such as Skjólfjörur, accessible by driving the old highway east of the village, before it becomes the high pass of Hellisheiði between Fljótsdalshérað and Vopnafjörður and provides a spectacular view. Vopnafjörður village, picturesque with its colourful old houses surrounded by rocky cliffs and islets, lies on the small Kolbeinstangi peninsula. It was one of Iceland’s major commercial harbours in the 18 th and 19 th centuries. In the last half century, the fishing industry grew considerably and is the largest business sector in the area today.
harbour. It remembers the thousands of emigrants who fled the region to America in the late 19 th and early 20 th centuries following the devastating Askja volcanic eruption of 1875. It also commemorates brothers Jón Múli Árnason and Jónas Árnason, who wrote several jazzy musicals in the fifties and sixties, which have become classics of Icelandic popular culture. The historical Bustarfell farm is a regional museum where history comes alive through storytelling and workshops each summer. The same family lived here in a large turf farmhouse from 1532 until 1966. Only a few such farmhouses are preserved today.
A Literary inspiration
One of Iceland’s most renowned novels, ‘Independent People’, by the Nobel Laureate Halldór Laxness, was greatly inf luenced by the struggle of poor farmers in the Remembering the past countryside surrounding Vopnafjörður. The Kaupvangur museum is located in The area is the childhood home of another a large old wooden house down by the great f igure of 20 t h centur y Icelandic literature, Gunnar Gunnarsson, who grew up on Ljótsstaðir. This famous writer wrote about the country life of Iceland, influenced by the people, nature and culture of Vopnafjörður. Two great salmon rivers f low through the untouched landscape surrounding Vopnaf jörður Bay. A cosy geothermal swimming pool with a nice view over the river sits on the banks of the Selá. –
NNH/ASF
Vopnafjarðarhreppur Hamrahlíð 15 • 690 Vopnafjörður
+354 473 1300
skrifstofa@vopnafjardarhreppur.is www.vopnafjardarhreppur.is
www.icelandictimes.com
85
To u r i s m , C u lt u r e
and
Business
I s s u e 19 • 2013
Local food delicacies from Austfirskar Krásir (East Iceland Delicacies), are also featured. East Iceland Delicacies was founded in 2009 to reinforce the East Iceland food heritage and to combine the forces of those involved in local food production. Food souvenirs are a relatively new feature in Iceland. Hús Handanna has quite a few East Icelandic delicacies meant to tickle your taste buds. Every month sees a special emphasis on one particular artist and designer—with special focus on their work and often special offers on their creations.
Introducing local designers
Entranced by the East
Quality handcraft at the East Iceland Crossroads
E
gilsstaðir was founded by a farmer who At East Icela nd ’s busiest crossroad built a house at the start of the 20th in Egilsstaðir sits the enchanting Hús century. He was confident in his choice of Handanna in a building shared with the land and predicted ‘the crossroads will be Tourist Information Centre. here’, which later proved true. The gallery specialises in promoting and selling East Icelandic design. Filled with Magic Happens at the Crossroads some of the most intriguing designs the According to Icelandic folklore, when region has to offer, there is a wide selection coming to a crossroads, one should stop and of paintings, beautiful ceramic products, envision what greatness lies ahead and by quality handcrafts made of reindeer skin, magic it will come true. antlers and local woodwork.
R í k e y g r a du ate d i n 2 0 03 f rom t he Haandarbejdes Fremmes Seminarium in Copenhagen, majoring in textile and embroidery. Since graduation she has been designing and working on projects under her own name as well as co-designing a successful clothing line for boys, Húnihún. Ríkey started creating collars in 2006. Her beautiful designs can embellish and completely change an outfit, combining both fashion and functionality. Inspired by lace and embroidered collars from the Romantic era, Ríkey believes that such mystic femininity adds a great touch to modern fashion. Handmade from wool, sometimes mixed with mohair, silk or kashmir, the collars are often decorated with jewellery. The main source is recycled vintage lace doilies—usually crocheted or tatted, that are dyed, arranged and mixed with embroidery and gems, giving each collar a unique feel.
Enter partners Rósa & Zdenek
The longing to make a significant positive difference, combined with an interest in design, led partners Rósa Valtingojer and Zdenek Patak to get together in 2006. Rósa, a textile and ceramic designer, originally from East Iceland, introduced graphic designer, Zdenek, to her hometown in Stöðvarfjörður, where they now live and envision future locations for sustainable communities. Designing for, and running Mupimup! Recycled by Design, the couple’s design approach is focused on post-consumerism and recycling industrial waste. –
SP/ASF
Hús Handanna Miðvangur 1 • 700 Egilsstaðir
+354 471 2433 info@hushandanna.is On Facebook
86
www.icelandictimes.com
A Fresh Place to Stay
Egilsstaðir’sLyngásGuesthouseofferssimple,cleanroomstostay.
O
pened in 2010, Lyngás Guesthouse gives guests in Egilsstaðir good quality accommodation at an affordable price in a modern house. It has six bedrooms ranging from those suited for individuals, to rooms for couples or groups of up to seven people. Being a new guesthouse, all the furnishing are also new and carry that fresh feeling. Guests on a budget can bring their sleeping bag for a reduced price or pay a small fee for the convenience of a made up bed.
It gives a fresh atmosphere to the guesthouse, as all the comfortable furniture also carries a fresh feel to it. The large picture windows offer attractive views. All rooms share bathrooms, kitchen, and the living room and there is free wireless Internet access throughout the guesthouse.
Egilsstaðir—centre of the East
Egilsstaðir is the service hub for the entire East and is an ideal location from which to base while exploring the region. The guesthouse is just a few minutes walk from the swimming pool and art museum. Lyngás is also very conveniently located for all services in the centre of town. –
VAG
Lyngás Gistiheimili
Good quality in a minimalist style
Lyngási 5-7 • 700 Egilsstöðum
White walls, accented with bright photos of plant life emphasise clean cut minimalism.
+354 471 1310 lyngas@lyngas.is www.lyngas.is
www.icelandictimes.com
87
To u r i s m , C u lt u r e
and
Business
I s s u e 19 • 2013
A Bit of History
At the Eastern Crossroads Egilsstaðir Guest House
E
gilsstaðir Guest House, on the shores of Lake Logurinn in the town of Egilsstaðir is a remarkable old world hotel that has been accommodating guests since 1884. Eighteen renovated double rooms, all with en suite bathroom, plus a fine dining restaurant, complete with white linen tablecloths and views overlooking the garden and lake, make this a cosy and romantic choice for an overnight stay or longer.
–
P
ractically everyone has heard of the curds a nd whey t hat Litt le Miss Muffet made famous. But not many people know that the skyr that is so popular in Iceland is, in fact, a variation of those curds (minus the whey). Because of the growing demand for
90
EMV
Egilsstaðir Guesthouse 700 Egilsstaðir
+354 471 1114
egilsstadir@egilsstadir.is www.egilsstadir.com
from 14.00 to 18.00, visitors are welcome to pop in for the reasonably-priced variety of traditiona l sk yr deserts, panca kes, waffles and other sweet treats. All Egilsstaðir Farm products are sold retail to consumers. Mince, fillet, prime rib and rib-eye steaks can all be bought at the shop in precut frozen form. Da ir y produc t s include pla in a nd blueberry skyr, skyr desserts, feta cheese, yogurt and milk—all packaged and labelled in Egilsstaðir pure Icelandic dairy and beef products, with the attractive Fjóshornið logo on the Egilsstaðir Farm recently opened a farmer’s containers. – EMV market on its premises, offering pure Icelandic dairy products, straight from Fjóshornið their own milk production as well as a Egilsstöðum I • 700 Egilsstöðum +354 471 1508 variety of cuts of beef from their own cattle none none herds. Open in summer only, weekdays
Cowshed Corner Straight from Fjóshornið farm
The guest house shares sprawling estate grounds with Egilsstaðir Farm, which has been operating continuously for centuries. The town of Egilstaðir grew up around the farm and eventually became the site of the major crossroads of East Iceland. Today, the farm continues its operations with 70 cows that provide the hotel with all its dairy products, such as milk, skyr, yogurt and cheese, as well as some of the highest quality beef products in Iceland. T he k itchen is overseen by Hu ld a Da n iel sdót t i r who i s f a st g a i n i n g a reput at ion for her cre at ive c o ok i n g skills and blending of traditional and progressive cuisine, sourcing most of the ingredients either locally or from around East Iceland. The restaurant prides itself on its beef tenderloin from Egilsstaðir Farm as well as its delectable handmade ice crea m and sorbets, both of which come highly recommended.
www.icelandictimes.com
TheMysteryofRandulff’sSeaHouse Mjóeyri Travel Service reveals Eskifjörður, past and present
T
he saga of Randulff’s Sea House is one of the most unusual and remarkable stories in Iceland today. Built in 1890 by the Norwegian fisherman Peter Randulff, the building was used for landing and processing herring, as well as providing fishermen with lodging in the upstairs quarters. A fter the demise of the herring era in 1930, the Sea House sat unused and abandoned for almost 90 years. When it was finally opened in 2008, the interior was found untouched and perfectly preserved as if frozen in time. Upstairs, trousers were still hanging on hooks, several pairs of boots were left under the bunk beds and a large collection of letters to loved ones on the continent were discovered. Curiously, no Icelander had ever seen the inside of the building until it was opened in 2008.
Dine back in Time
Mjóeyri Travel Service organises tours and events at Randulff ’s Sea House, now operating as a restaurant within a museum. Visitors can tour this fascinating building and afterwards enjoy a traditional meal with starters such as fermented shark, dried fish and herring on rye bread, chased by a shot of brennivín. The menu includes dishes made with ingredients from around the fjord. Try the reindeer sausages with rice and chili sauce or the smoked and cured reindeer with salad and blueberry sauc e. Trad it iona l f ish, me at soups, and roast East Iceland lamb can also be provided for group lunches or dinners with advanced booking. As a travel service, Mjóeyri offers a wide variety of activities in the area, including boat
rental, reindeer watching and/or hunting, nature hikes and bird watching tours and skiing in winter. Tailor made tours according to your wishes, can be arranged.
Iceland Spar
It has been speculated that the ‘sunstone’ mentioned in medieval Icelandic texts was Iceland spar and that Vikings used its light-polarizing property to tell the direction of the sun on cloudy days, for navigational purposes. The mineral, known formerly as Iceland Crystal, is noteworthy for its extraordinary properties of double refraction, which was studied at length by prominent scholars such as Christiaan Huygens and Sir Isaac Newton. Intriguing visits to Helgustaðir Cave, where Icelandic spa r wa s m i ned f rom t he 17 t h —20 t h centuries are made possible with Mjóeyri Travel Service, guidance and equipment included. Mjóeyri Travel’s striking summer houses stand ta ll against the jaw-droppingly beautiful background of the setting sun beyond the mountains. Owners Berglind and Sævar welcome you to spend a day, a week, a month on the blissfully tranquil shores of Eskifjörður in East Iceland. –
EMV
Mjóeyri Guesthouse Strandgötu 120 • 735 Eskifjörður
+354 477 1247 mjoeyri@vortex.is www.mjoeyri.is
www.icelandictimes.com
91
To u r i s m , C u lt u r e
and
Business
I s s u e 19 • 2013
The Natural Pearl of the East Seyðisfjarðarkaupstaður is both beautiful and challenging
T
he road to Seyðisf jörður crosses Fjarðarheiði, a mountain range which has, over the centuries, presented a huge obstacle to travel, but is now reduced to a mere 30 minutes. Commanding views from Fjarðarheiði and the road leading down to the fjord is one of Iceland’s most spectacular.
LungA art festival in July. Mostly aimed at the upcoming generation of young artists, the festival has become one of the main art events of the year in Iceland.
Alive in the Past
Norræna ferry, a North Atlantic ferry that Seyðisfjörður also has its own historical connects Iceland to the Faroe Island and museum with lively exhibitions that seek Denmark, which docks at Seyðisfjörður, Charm and History making it the only place in Iceland where The small, but charming village of around you can travel abroad with a car. 700 inhabitants, is distinguished by its collection of well preserved and colourful Challenging the Outdoors timber houses from the early 20th century. Recreational highlights include midnight Seyðisfjörður is considered by many to be kayaking on the fjord ( in summer only), one of the most picturesque towns in Iceland, attempting the challenging “Seven Peaks also known for its thriving art scene. Hike”, mountain biking, sea angling and bird watching at Skálnes. Guided tours of Art in Action historic Seyðisfjörður can also be arranged. In the centre of town rises the pretty ‘Blue Church’, which serves as the local centre Shortlisted for Capital for music, while the Skaftfell Art Centre is In the latter part of the 19th century, Iceland dedicated to the visual arts, with its focus on still didn’t have a proper capital. The contemporary arts. intellectual elite were aware of the problem Artists, art lovers and visitors from all over to recreate the atmosphere of the times and much back-and-forth discussion took Iceland and abroad convene at the annual they portray; from 1880 to 1950 technical place before it was decided that Reykjavík innovations in areas such as mechanics, would be the best spot for the capital of the electricity, communications, telephony, future. Along with Akureyri, Seyðisfjörður commerce and architecture changed forever was one of the candidates, since it was easier the dynamics of the Icelandic way of life, to sail to Europe from Seyðisfjörður than bringing it swiftly into the modern era. from any other of the towns in question.
Linked to the Outside World
It was here that the first telephone line linking Iceland to the outside world was built. Other historical links include the
84
www.icelandictimes.com
Seyðisfjörður Hafnargata 44 • 710 Seyðisfjörður
+354 470 2300 ferdamenning@sfk.is www.seydisfjordur.is
A Class from the Past
Seyðisfjörður’s Hótel Aldan surrounds Guests with elegance
W
hen arriving at one of the furthest points in East Iceland, surrounded by magnificent views, one can almost feel the sparks of creativity combined with the peacefulness the area has to offer. Known as something of a trendy place, musicians and artists from all over Iceland and abroad have been attracted to Seyðisfjörður’s flourishing cultural scene.
is located in two of those gems, divided into Hótel Aldan and Hótel Snæfell. Hótel Aldan is in what used to be the bank of Seyðisfjörður for almost a century. Elegantly furnished with antiques imported from Denmark and soft furnishings from India, the bedrooms are the picture of gentle relaxation, especially when guests can cherish the starry night sky from the skylights above their beds. Starry Nights and Stellar Food Several of the rooms boast adjoining Seyðisfjörður’s Norwegian–style wooden sleeping quarters in a recessed alcove, houses, dating from early 20th century, make which are sure to be a popular cosy nook the village unique in Iceland. Hótel Aldan for children. Immaculately clean rooms
with quality linens and down duvets add a touch of luxury. Hótel Aldan also houses the restaurant, a treasure on its own, where traditional lamb and langoustine dishes, as well as fresh fish from the fjord are featured. Many dishes are seasoned with herbs, handpicked from the mountains above the fjord every summer. Collected specially for the restaurant, these fragrant flowers and herbs give Hótel Aldan’s signature dishes their distinctive flair. The classy restaurant is perfect for a romantic autumn evening dinner in elegant surroundings on the edge of the world. Hótel Snæfell, a more budget option, has total of nine rooms in a charming wooden house from 1908 located at the mouth of the Fjarðará River with views across the fjord. Recreationa l hig h lig ht s include midnight kayaking (in summer only), attempting the challenging ‘Seven Peaks Hike’, mountain biking, sea angling and bird watching at Skálanes. –
ASF
Hótel Aldan Norðurgötu 2 • 710 Seyðisfirði
+354 472 1277 hotelaldan@simnet.is www.hotelaldan.com
Sillu Guesthouse
We offer three double rooms located on the ground floor in a house in a peaceful neighbourhood. All rooms include made up beds and wireless Internet access. Extra mattresses available. All our guests have access to a fully equipped kitchen, bathroom with bath and shower. TV-room and living room.
Guesthouse
Ola
See website for information on prices, bookings etc. +354 472 1189
Botnahlíð 10 • 710 Seyðisfjörður info@gistihussillu.com
www.gistihussillu.com
Post-Hostel
Situated in a beautiful quiet spot with a panoramic view over Seyðisfjörður fjord and town, which is considered by many to be one of the most beautiful towns in Iceland, only about 5 min walk from the town centre. A perfect place for individuals, small families or
Pos t- H os tel of fer s six comfortable rooms including access to a f u ll y e quip p e d k i tch e n in addition to washing machine, clothes dryer and free wireless Internet.
couples.
Hafnargata 4 • 710 Seyðisfjörður
Botnahlíð 13 • 710 Seyðisfjörður +354 862 2990
+354 422 7922 info@posthostel.com www.posthostel.com
info@guesthouseola.com www.guesthouseola.com
www.icelandictimes.com
85
To u r i s m , C u lt u r e
and
Business
I s s u e 19 • 2013
Stay in a World of Beauty Blábjörg Guesthouse give you access to all the East
S
till untouched by the large number of tourists visiting Iceland, much of the East is still pristine and a wonderful place for hikers, photographers and bird watchers – not to mention those who are interested in history, culture, nature and geology. A region of mountains and fjords, of both highlands and valleys, waterfalls and rivers, inspiration and friendly inhabitants, those who visit it never regret it. If you’re looking for relaxation and a break from the stress of a city, this is will give you that and a lot more.
Enjoy the beauty of the East Fjörds at Tærgesen Guesthouse
he East of Iceland is a beautiful place to enjoy a holiday. Deep fjörds, surrounded by high mounta ins wit h small communities nestled in them, some magnificent hiking trails, amazing nature and geology, a history and culture all its own. The villages welcome visitors and their hospitality is legendary. Most of the villages are built on fishing but today, many have other activities, too.
112
A Place to stretch
With only 11 double bedrooms, it is The terrain is rugged, diverse and dramatic, spacious and comfortable, making it an ideal filled with deserted coves and inlets. base from which to explore the area. There are hot tubs inside and outside, too, where Surrounded by mountains, sea & birds you can relax, three bathrooms and a fully Nestled in a fjord called Borgarfjörður equipped kitchen. Here you can also enjoy eystri, in the northern part of the East, the stories of the elves and Hidden People surrounded by birdlife and untouched from the friendly community. – ASF wilderness is Blábjörg Guesthouse. They have transformed a fish factory so completely, you Blábjörg Guesthouse would have no idea of its previous use. It’s set Brautarholt • 720 Borgarfjörður eystra +354 861 1792 right by the sea’s edge with a beautiful view helgisig@simnet.is www.blabjorg.is of the fjord and the birds that flock around
Stay in Reyðarfjörður T
it. They are unafraid of humans and you can get really close to them without difficulty.
A Guesthouse with charm
Close to Reyðarfjörður’s harbour, in the old part of town is one of its oldest houses —and you can stay there. It’s Tærgisen Guesthouse, a house built in 1870 and filled with character that time has not quenched. In fact, its owners have enhanced it, while creating a modern guesthouse and restaurant that has so much more charm that a modern steel and glass box.
www.icelandictimes.com
There are 13 double rooms and 4 singles, adding to the cosy feel of the guesthouse, which has free WiFi and parking. The restaurant provides guests with a continental breakfast to start their day as many like to go hiking in the surrounding area or bird watching and photographing the stunning scenes. At other times of the day, the restaurant offers a good selection of food, with their menu including pizzas and hamburgers. Try their traditional Icelandic specialities like smoked lamb. –
ASF
Tærgesen Guesthouse Buðargata 4 • 730 Reyðarfjörður
+354 470 5555 taergesen@gmail.com www.taergesen.com
The town has undertaken a project to rebuild and restore a number of important historical buildings that were used by the French fishermen. A luxury 4-star hotel is planned for the old hospital built in 1903, which includes the French consulate and doctors’ offices and will be ready for visitors in the spring of 2014.
Alive and well at Café Sumarlína in Fáskruðsfjörður
I
n operation since 2002, Café Sumarlina on the Eastern Fjord of Fáskruðsfjörður is well known for their Belgian waffles with whipped cream and their sweet/savoury French crepes. Other specialities include creamed seafood on toast, a variety of pizzas, lamb fillet and cod dishes, to name a few. The café-restaurant sits just by the harbour on the fjord and on calm, sunny days, the
view of the mountains surrounding the 15 km long fjord is spectacular. Fáskruðfjörður has a rich history and is t w inned w it h t he French tow n of Gravellines near the Pas de Calais. Between 1800 and 1910, record numbers of French and Belgian f ishermen arrived here to unload their catches, with around 5,000 men coming every year.
Quintessentially German East Iceland’s Exceptional Small Hotel-Restaurant
T
he antique wooden clock strikes nine in the evening and we are just finishing up an enjoyable meal with Irish coffee and a delectable cheesecake from the kitchen of Margret Bekemeier, chef and owner of HotelRestaurant Margrét. Reminiscent of a Swiss chalet, the hotel is made from Finnish pine inside and out and is entirely furnished with antiques brought over from Germany. T h i s e xc e pt ion a l s m a l l hot e l h a s absolutely everything going for it—the
view, the food, the décor, the architecture, a kitchen garden and even its own clutch of egg-laying hens. Spectacularly situated in the foothills of the mountain ridge that separates Breiðdalsvík and Stöðvarfjörður, the hotel overlooks the Bay of Breiðdal (Breiðdalsvík). It’s hard to imagine a more picturesque and cosy location for a holiday in Iceland. Although there are only 4 rooms, all with private bath, the hotel can sleep up to 11 guests comfortably, making this undoubtedly the smallest hotel in Iceland.
www.icelandictimes.com
A popular stop for French tourists, the French Museum of Fáskruðsf jörður is dedicated to the memory of thousands of French and Belgian sailors who played an important role in the history of the area. –
EMV
Café Sumarlína Búðavegi 59 • 750 Fáskrúðsfirði
+354 475 1575 sumarlina@simnet.is www.sumarlina.123.is
M a r g re t , w ho i s a n a c c ompl i s he d professiona l chef from Germany, a lso grows her own herbs and lettuce and raises her own chickens on the property. The extensive lunch and dinner menu offers traditional German home cooking using the freshest of Icelandic ingredients, and you can be absolutely sure of an excellent and copious meal. L o ok i n g out at t he s c ener y, I a m already dreaming about returning again s o on, but ne x t t i me , I ’m de f i n ite ly bringing my husband. –
EMV
Café Margrét Þverhamri • 760 Breiðdalsvík
+354 475 6625
cafemargret@simnet.is none
113
Images by © Tim Vollmer
The French Connection
To u r i s m , C u lt u r e
and
Business
I s s u e 19 • 2013
Just Begging to be Explored
Breiðdalur Valley has 7 hotels, 6 drinking spots and 190 residents
T
he East of Iceland is renowned for its unique geological formations and for its magnificent variety of semi-precious stones and minerals due, in part, to natural erosion by the elements. Breiðdalur Valley shares in this rich heritage that is often overlooked by mainstream tourists and as one of Iceland’s hidden treasures, the wide and verdant valley is just begging to be explored. There are many old hiking trails that criss-cross the Breiðdalur district which have been used for centuries as postal routes and walking paths that once connected the isolated villages. In an effort to open the district to more tourism, a local hiking group has started an ongoing project of
88
mapping and marking the ancient paths, making them more accessible and safe for hikers with the use of a GPS system. Uncountable waterfalls descend from Breiðdalur’s many peaks, and just about every farm in the valley is backed by its very own ‘private’ waterfall. There are wonderful picnic spots around the valley as well as opportunities for horse riding and salmon fishing and you can camp just about anywhere that is not farm land.
The Museum of Heritage and Geology
The Gamla Kaupfélag which dates from 1906, is Breiðdalsvík ’s oldest building and was recently renovated to house the district’s Heritage and Geology Museum. The museum showcases the lives and works of two of Breiðdalur’s most famous scholars-Professor Stefan Einarsson, and Dr. George P. Walker. Stefan Einarsson was a prolific writer, linguist and grammarian who taught for many years at Johns Hopkins University in Baltimore and received Iceland’s highest honour, the Order of the Falcon in 1939. A n ‘adopted son’ of Breiðdalur, the world-renowned British vulcanologist, Dr. George P. Walker, spent many years doing research in East Iceland, particularly in the Breiðdalur Valley. He was one of a few foreigners to receive the Icelandic
www.icelandictimes.com
Order of the Falcon (the equivalent of a knighthood), conferred upon him by the President of Iceland in 1977. Both men contributed much to their respective fields of research and the unique exhibitions are full of fascinating details and artifacts from their life and work. –
EMV
Breiðdalshreppur Ásvegur 32 • 760 Breiðdalsvík
+354 470 5560 hreppur@breiddalur.is www.breiddalur.is
Wilderness in Full Colour
Stafafell Guesthouse is a base to the rugged beauty of Lónsöræfi
S
tafafell Guesthouse is a base to the rugged beauty of Lónsöræfi. Stafafell Guesthouse is situated on a hill with panoramic view of the surrounding countryside, the coastline and the vividly coloured mountain range. The shallow fjord or brackish “Lón” lagoon is only 15 km away. It is famous for attracting the densest population of whooper swans in the world. Its beaches are strewn with colourful pebbles, polished by the Atlantic Ocean. The guesthouse was originally built as a parsonage in 1897. It was converted into a youth hostel in 1983 with room for up to 30 people in the house and the two cosy
cottages that were added. These each have two bedrooms, a kitchen, bathroom and a living room with a TV. There is a large, fully-equipped kitchen in the main house, where you can prepare your meals. (Dinners are not provided, so you will need to buy food ahead of time.) By the guesthouse there is a well equipped camp site with shower facilities, washing machine and a dryer.
A Hiker’s Heaven
Stafafell is well placed on Road 1 for visiting both mountains, glaciers and fjords. It is surrounded by popular hiking
trails that take you through some awesome countryside. For instance, a 4-5 hour hike will take you to Hvannagil, a canyon made of colourful rhyolite on the eastern bank of the Jökulsá í Lóni river where you will see rich bird life, possibly reindeer. Hikes vary in difficulty from easy to very demanding, requiring proper equipment. S ome a re a s c a n be re ac he d u si n g SuperJeeps—but be aware that regular SUV’s will not suffice. This area can challenge you to the limit. For the inexperienced or novice, there is still plenty to enjoy and staff at the guesthouse can provide reliable information – ASF and counsel.
Stafafell Guesthouse Stafafelli, 781 Höfn
+3544781717 info@stafafell.is www.stafafell.is
Við Voginn Restaurant
A restaurant and coffee shop right down at the harbour A photo exhibition, featuring bird photos from Iceland A shop selling food and general stores Enjoy a meal or coffee with a beautiful view Vogalandi 2 • 765 Djúpavogur vidvoginn@simnet.is
+354 478 8860 www.djupivogur.is/dalvefur/?id=8314
Langabúð
langabrú
Museum, cultural centre & café in the oldest building in Djúpavogur, a log building from 1790 An exhibition of sculptor Ríkarður Jónsson The café serves light lunch & delicious cakes Löngubúð • 250 Djúpavogur • +354 478 8220
www.icelandictimes.com
89
To u r i s m , C u lt u r e
and
Business
I s s u e 19 • 2013
Common Shelduck, drake
Black Guillemot
Sanderling in summer plumage
Red-throated Divers displaying Northern Shoveler, pair
A Birdwatcher’s
paradise Djúpivogur to Lón, a top site for birds in South East Iceland
T
he mu n icipa l it y of Djúpivog u r ( B er u f jörðu r, Á l f t a f jörðu r, Hamarsfjörður and Papey island), together with Lón and the Þvottárskriður and Hvalsnesskriður scree slopes, is one of the top five birding sites in Iceland. The largest and most diverse concentrations of birds occur on eutrophic coastal lakes, mudflats, and the shallow waters, some of which hold internationally important numbers of birds, as well as the bird cliffs on the deserted island Papey, six km offshore from Djúpivogur. The coastal lowlands are sparsely populated by sheep farmers, and most of the inhabitants live in a small fishing village, Djúpivogur.
123
The area around Djúpivogur is unique and in the recent years, the municipality has developed facilities for birdwatchers. Information boards, birdwatching hides and a website are some of things being done to help visiting birdwatchers get the most out of their visit. The Common Shelduck, a recent colonist in Iceland, has become established here in recent years. Other breeders include Horned Grebe, Red-throated Diver, Northern Shoveler, Northern Pintail, Long-tailed Duck and Rock Dove. During the migration season birds like Red K not, Sa nderling a nd Ruddy Turnstone are common on the mudflats around Búlandsnes.
www.icelandictimes.com
In Berufjörður, west of Djúpivogur, Harlequin Duck can be found at the outlet of River Fossá in the bottom of the fjord and on other rivers in the area. Papey is easy to visit and there are regular boat trips out to the island in summer. The island is 2 km 2 and marshy, and is surrounded by a few smaller islands. The birdlife is dominated by seabirds. Large numbers of Atlantic Puffin (estimated 200,000 pairs), Brünnich’s Guillemot, Common Guillemot, Razorbill and Blacklegged Kittiwake breed here. The island also has wetlands which support a range of birds. A recent colonist is the European Shag and the European Storm-petrel has bred there.
To the south of Djúpivogur there are two shallow fjords which support a wide range of birds, Hamarsfjörður and Álftafjörður. They are important stopovers for birds like geese, Whooper Swans and waders. Up to 3,600 Black-tailed Godwits have been recorded in Álftafjörður in a single count and it is one of the main stopover sites for this species in Iceland. The fjords are important moulting sites for the Greylag Goose, and the Common Shelduck has started breeding here, as it has done in Djúpivogur. To the south of Álftafjörður, the road traverses a series of scree slopes which drop steeply to the sea, known as Þvottárskriður and Hvalsnesskriður. During the summer,
flocks of Common Scoter can be found on the sea here and Velvet Scoter, White-winged Scoter and Surf Scoter are regularly found in these f locks. Huge f locks of moulting Common Eider are also found here in late summer and species like Long-tailed Duck, Harlequin Duck and Black Guillemot feed in this nutrient-rich sea. Moving further west you come to the shallow fjord or brackish Lón lagoon which attracts the densest population of Whooper Swans in the world. This is one of the greatest wonders in Icelandic nature. Whooper Swans can be found here all year and at certain times of the year up to half the Icelandic population may be present here, approximately 10,000
www.icelandictimes.com
birds. The largest concentrations are during spring migration and during the late summer and autumn moult. Greylag Goose, Eurasian Wigeon and Common Eider are also common here. Reindeer are common in the area and can be seen all year, although most frequently in winter and spring. Common Seal are also widespread and breeds in Þvottáreyjar, but they are difficult to approach. Papey, Hamarsfjörður–Álftafjörður and Lón are all listed as Important Bird Areas (IBA) by BirdLife International. A useful website on birds and birdwatching in Djúpivogur is www.birds.is Text and photos Jóhann Óli Hilmarsson
124
To u r i s m , C u lt u r e
and
Business
I s s u e 19 • 2013
Sail a Fantasy World
The Ice Lagoon Team reveal the secrets of Jökulsarlon
I
t’s one of the unique features of Iceland —one of those ‘must see’ spots. Located under the massive Vatnajökull glacier, the lagoon is one of the world’s natural wonders. Huge icebergs break off from the tongue flowing down from the glacier itself, plunging into the waters of the lagoon. The sunlight shining on and through the ice produces beautiful effects, while the multifaceted blocks of ice form shapes that are just other-worldly.
It’s also a photographer’s dream, presenting many different photo opportunities to get unique shots. Since the volcanic eruptions of 2010 and before, some of the icebergs are stained with streaks of ash. Many are so huge that they dwarf the little Zodiac boat as it wends its way between them. It’s not just peaceful on the lagoon, the silence is almost eerie, adding to the sense of awe. It’s not without life, however, as seals can frequently be seen basking on a lump of ice or chasing after fish - or, quite often, just A recent natural wonder curiously observing those strange humans in It hasn’t always been like this. The lagoon their red jackets. started to form in 1934, and has grown steadily larger since then as the Vatnajökull Tours that win Excellence Awards glacier began retreating and ice started Ice Lagoon–Zodiac Boat Tours has 7 moving slowly down towards the sea, scheduled tours daily. Each lasts an hour and breaking off in huge chunks in the lagoon. the Ice Lagoon team takes you all the way It is now the deepest lake in Iceland at up to the glacier edge, about 7 km away. The around 260 metres. company focuses on personal service with a
maximum of 10 passengers in each Zodiac boat and with professional guides who will point out the jewels and the secrets of the lagoon. This has earned them Tripadvisor’s 2013 Certificate of Excellence. It is worth reading Tripadvisor’s reviews to see why. They have three kinds of tours: the Adventure Tour, the Evening Tour and private tours where you have the whole boat and the guide for yourself. Before st a r t ing a tou r, one of t he experienced guides will tell you about what you can expect to see and will make sure you have your floatation suits and lifejackets. The Evening Tour is remarkable as the sun is lower in the west, casting beautiful colours over the entire area. With fewer visitors at that time, the silence is all the more profound. Jökulsarlón is easy to reach from Reykjavik, as it lies on the Ring road in the south, some 78 km before the fishing town of Höfn. –
ASF
IceLagoon-ZodiacBoatTours Sunnuhlíð • 781 Hornafjörður
+354 860 9996 info@icelagoon.com www.icelagoon.com
108
www.icelandictimes.com
The Vast Vatnajökull In the Realm of the Vatnajökull Glacier
T
he re g ion d i re c t ly bene at h t he Vatnajökull glacier is a 260 km long, narrow stretch of land that spans from the west of Skaftafell National Park to the town of Höfn on its eastern border. The lives of people of the region have been shaped and moulded according to the dictates of nature, in a region which, until as recently as the 1970’s, was one of the most isolated parts of Iceland. The majority of its roughly 2,100 inhabitants live and work in Höfn, the area’s largest population centre; the rest are on farms scattered throughout the region.
A Photographer’s Dream
Driving through this enchanted area, the vastness of the glacier, with its various glacier outlets, makes a compelling impression on the mind. The extensive views across the black sands of Skeiðarásandur towards Skaftafellsjökull glacier leave one in awe of the glacier’s sheer magnitude, relentless in its crushing effect upon the land beneath
it. The beautiful Svartifoss waterfall, one of the main attractions within the Vatnajökull Nationa l Pa rk, is well k nown for its underlying black basalt hexagonal columns. below sea level at the famous Jökulsárlón glacial lagoon-260 metres at its deepest. As a national park, it’s the largest in Europe.
Points of interest
Some impressive numbers
Activities in the area are numerous-take a snowmobile, jeep or hiking tour on the glacier, cruise gently around blue-tinged icebergs on a boat ride at Jökulsárlón glacial lagoon, observe puffins at Ingólfshöfði, or get a bird’s eye view over the glacier on a sightseeing flight. What could be more magical than basking in the midnight sun, in the warm natural hot baths at Hoffell? These are just a few of the possibilities in the Vatnajökull Region.
Vatnajökull is larger than all the glaciers in Europe combined, (there are smaller glaciers in Norway and Russia) and is one of the largest glacier in the world outside of the polar icecaps. It boasts the highest elevation in Iceland: Hvannadalshnúkur at 2,115 m or 6,870 feet, as well as the lowest point Local Festivities Taste some of those lovely langoustine dishes during the annual Lobster Festival in Höfn, late in June, and don’t forget the not-to-bemissed annual fireworks extravaganza at Jökulsárlón on in late August. For more in-depth information about Vatnajökull National Park, check out the visitors centre, a major hub for hiking and mountaineering expeditions in the area, open year round. –
EMV
Ríki Vatnajökuls Litlubrú 2 • 780 Hornafirði
+354 470 8084 info@visitvatnajokull.is www.visitvatnajokull.is
www.icelandictimes.com
109
To u r i s m , C u lt u r e
and
Business
I s s u e 19 • 2013
Dine in the Langoustine Capital Humarhöfnin satisfies the hunger for whole langoustine in Höfn I celand is known for some of the finest fresh fish in the world and a large share of the country’s catch is landed at Höfn í Hornaf irði, on the south-east coast. Höfn (which sounds like ‘Hup’ to our ears and means harbour) is also known as the langoustine capital of Iceland, where several thousand visitors gather in the town for the annual Humarhátið (Langoustine) Festival, to be held in June. You would expect the langoustine capital of Iceland to have a fine-dining restaurant that can do justice to the lovely little crustacean. The Humarhöfnin sea-food restaurant, which has been a big success since it was opened
over 7 years ago by Anna Þorsteinsdóttir, her brother Ari Þorsteinsson and their spouses, has definitely earned that accolade.
A menu to entice any connoisseur
A f avou r ite w it h tou r i s t s f rom t he Mediterranean countries, Humarhöfnin was the first restaurant in Iceland to serve whole langoustine, though it has now become popular in the town. The concept is still new in Iceland, so each diner who orders langoustine receives illustrated instructions on the finer points of using the lobster cracker and fork that come with the dish.
The menu was created and developed by the French chef Jacques DuPont and his many dishes such as the beautifully presented ‘Mix of Whole Langoustine and Tails’ and the famous ‘Black Magic Sauce’ have been very successful. Paired with one of Humarhöfnin’s specially selected wines, you are in line for an absolute feast. Also on the menu, the arctic char is a delight. The crème brûlée, made from local eggs and imported Madagascar vanilla will have you swooning and you might want or need to order a double portion. The casual, bright and lively décor fits Huma rhöfnin’s ha rbour location a nd the friendly wait staff will be happy to point out the very boat that brought in the day’s catch, moored at the docks just a short distance away. The building itself was originally the town co-op before it was totally renovated and transformed into this beautiful restaurant. There is an exhibit on the 2 nd f loor which portrays the history of the house. If you are a langoustine af icionado, you can f ly, drive or take a bus to Höfn where you will find your seafood haven awaiting you. – EMV
Humarhöfnin Hafnarbraut 4 • 780 Höfn
+354 478 1200 info@humarhofnin.is www.humarhofnin.is
88
www.icelandictimes.com
Eating well in Höfn Kaffi Hornið Hits the Spot
K
affi Hornið in Höfn í Hornafirði has a friendly, laid back atmosphere that puts you at ease the moment you walk in the door. The Finnish wooden interior and cosy tea lights flickering on each table lend a feeling of warmth to this established restaurant, which has been run by the same couple, Ingólfur Einarsson and Kristin Óladóttir since it opened 13 years ago. Making use of the celebrated ingredients from the Vatnajökull region as much as possible, Kaffi Hornið puts emphasis on the prized langoustine for which Höfn is known. Not to be confused the North American lobster, langoustine is also called Dublin Bay prawns, Norway lobster or scampi and imparts a more delicate flavour and texture than their larger cousins.
popular signature hamburger is topped with mounds of melted cheese, bacon, Specialties of the House onions and mushrooms, and comes with a Chef Ingólfur offers a variety of absolutely generous portion of french fries. Another fresh langoustine dishes including pasta filling lunch option is the legendary club with langoustine in a cognac-cream sauce, sandwich, which is popular among locals. roasted langoustine with vegetables and garlic sauce, grilled langoustine with Craving vegetables salad and even an intriguing langoustine If somewhere along your way you didn’t pizza. Many of the seafood dishes come get your daily dose of fresh vegetables, with a fabulously crunchy Swiss rösti Kaffi Hornið offers a lunchtime soup with which attests to Ingólfur’s 2 years of chef homemade bread and your choice of vegetables training in Zermatt, Switzerland. from the salad bar, available daily until 4 pm. Last, but not least, there is a fine selection A hamburger calling? of homemade cakes and desserts including In case you are homesick for a hamburger, organic ice cream from the nearby Árbær Kaffi Hornið’s thick and juicy hamburgers dairy farm. The addition of Icelandic will fit the bill, easily putting others to liquorice to many of the more ordinary shame. Made with 120g of pure Icelandic flavours like chocolate and vanilla turns this beef from nearby farms, Kaffi Hornið’s ever ice cream into a uniquely Icelandic dairy treat that is hard to resist.
Not to be missed
Located right on the main road that passes through the centre of Höfn, Ingólfur and Kristín welcome you to pop in for a friendly meal whenever you are in town. –
KB
Kaffi Hornið Hafnarbraut 42 • 780 Höfn
+354 478 2600 kaffihornid@eldhorn.is www.kaffihornid.is
www.icelandictimes.com
89
To u r i s m , C u lt u r e
92
and
Business
I s s u e 19 • 2013
www.icelandictimes.com
On Top of
the World
Atimidsoul’sapproachtothemightyVatnajökull
Bed down for the night in the heartoftheVatnajökulldistrict atVagnsstaðirYouthHostel,just 28 km east of the Jökulsárlón glacier lagoon. Sleeping bag accommodation,linenrental, awellequippedkitchen,dining and lounge areas, as well as 3 fully equipped cottages are offered.Thereisacampground with good sanitary facilities. The coast, just 1500 m from Vagnsstaðirprovidesnumerous possibilitiesforscenicwalksand birdwatching.Mapsofthearea are available at the hostel.
T
he weather report was looking good—a full day of sunshine ahead of me and temperatures above 10°C. I was on my way to a face to face encounter with the world’s 3rd largest glacier, the mighty Vatnajökull. This trip would mark a couple of firsts for me—my first time ever to set foot on a glacier, and my first time to travel by snowmobile. Needless to say I was really excited! I first met Kristján and Bjarney, of Glacier Jeeps, at our pre-arranged meeting place: the crossroads of Route No.1 and F985. This is the official meeting place for all Glacier Jeep summer tours. Glacier Jeeps has years of experience conducting jeep, snowmobile and hiking tours on the glacier since 1994. (Bjarney has been helping run the family business since she was 14 years old.) I parked my car and joined them in their sturdy 4WD which wound its way slowly ever upwards, following the undulating gravel road, which twisted and turned around hairpin bends, past waterfalls and deep canyons. My guides fill me in on the details of the landscape, pointing out how the glacier has crawled across the terrain, devastating everything in its path along with other interesting facts. Thirty minutes and 830 metres above sea level later, we arrive at Jöklasel, Iceland’s highest restaurant and owned by Glacier Jeeps. Jöklasel will serve as our base camp where we suit up with boots, warm overalls and helmets for the snowmobile excursion. Now it’s time to test drive the snowmobiles. I am a little hesitant at first and Kristján shows me the ropes. It looks easy enough but I decide that I prefer to let him drive over the glacier with me sitting safely behind him on this ‘skidoo for two’, at least until I get a better feel for it. ‘Off we go over the wild white yonder, climbing high into the sun’ to paraphrase an old song, with cloudless blue skies above us and the wind in our faces. Further along we
www.icelandictimes.com
stop and dismount, to take in the magnificent panoramic views over the glacier, the Atlantic Ocean and the town of Höfn far below in the distance. I felt like I was on top of the world and it was truly a cause for celebration! Kristján jokes that we cannot go onwards unless I drive. By now I am feeling a little more sure of myself and agree to give it a try. This time we are off to inspect a massive sheer rock face that rises straight up from the glacier at an elevation of 1200 metres. Finally, our one hour snowmobile adventure comes to an end and it is time to return to Jöklasel for a well deserved bite to eat and a hot drink. The view out the restaurant windows is as one would expect: magnificent. Glacier Jeeps also offers a hiking tour of the glacier that comes with all the equipment such as safety helmets, climbing irons and ice axe, instruction and a guide, included in the price. In case you just don’t think a strenuous hike or a thrilling snowmobile adventure is for you, then Glacier Jeeps offers an alternative to see the glacier in a comfortable, specially equipped 4WD and is available year round, weather permitting. Each tour is only 3 to 4 hours in total, giving you plenty of time to do other things with your day, even though once you are up there you may not want to come down. Although it’s best to book one day in advance, you can also just show up at the crossroads (F985) at either 9.30 am or 2.00 pm and join the tour from there. Vatnajökull Glacier Jeep tours: a must for your bucket list!
–
EMV
Glacier Jeeps Silfurbraut 15 • 780 Hornafjörður
+354 478 1000 glacierjeeps@simnet.is www.glacierjeeps.is
93
VATNAJÖKU LSÞJÓ Ð G A R Ð U R N ATIONAL PARK
We are proud to welcome you to Vatnajökull National Park!
Vatnajökull National Park is Iceland’s newest protected area, established in 2008. With a total area of roughly 13,200 km2 it is by far the largest national park in Iceland as well as in Western Europe.
Key features of the park are the ice cap of the Vatnajökull Glacier (8,200 km2) and several highly active volcanic systems within and outside the ice cap. The interplay of ice and fire is the single most important force in shaping the nature of the park. As a result, one can find in one place an unparalleled range of volcanic-, geothermal- and other landscape features. We offer information at our three Visitor Centres, Gljúfrastofa, Snæfellsstofa and Skaftafellsstofa. Information Centres are situated at Kirkjubæjarklaustur and Höfn. More information at our website www.vjp.is
Ísafjörður
Húsavík Sauðárkrókur
Akureyri
GLJÚFRASTOFA
Gljúfrastofa
Ásbyrgi Hljóðaklettar Dettifoss
Egilsstaðir
SNÆFELLSSTOFA Askja
Snæfellsnes
Kverkfjöll
Snæfell
Snæfellsstofa
©Ragnar Th. Sigurðsson
Höfn Keflavík Airport
Reykjavík
Eldgjá Laki Kirkjubæjarklaustur Vík
Skaftafell
Jökulsárlón
SKAFTAFELLSSTOFA Skaftafellsstofa
©Guðmundur Ögmundsson
©Guðmundur Ögmundsson
Dettifoss
© Skarphéðinn G. Þórisson
Svartifoss
©Regína Hreinsdóttir
©Guðmundur Ögmundsson
Hiking Geldingafell, Snæfell in the distance
Morsárdalur
©Einar Ragnar Sigurðsson
Langisjór
For more information on Vatnajokull National Park, please visit our website www.vjp.is
PORT hönnun
Askja and Lake Öskjuvatn
To u r i s m , C u lt u r e
and
Business
I s s u e 19 • 2013
Day Two
A Hike of a Lifetime
Útivist takes you on a trip through spectacular beauty
W
ith the opening of the Sveinstindur Útivist cabin as well as the Skælingar cabin a new hiking path has opened up where you can stay every night in a lodge. This route is renowned for its natural beauty and diversity and has long been a popular Útivist hike. The hike takes you over the Sveinstindur peak in the Fögrufjöll mountains providing a good view over the Langisjór highlands, Vatnajökull glacier all the way to the Grimsfjöll mountains, Hvannadalshnjúkur peak and the southern highlands from the Mýrdalsjökull glacier into the Spregisandur route to the west part of Kjölur. The trail takes rarely-used paths, sandy and moss covered, along the Skaftá river and up the hidden climb by Uxatandar and across the grassy Skælingar, a walk to Gjátindur peak and the Eldgjá volcano itself that makes a good place to stop on this walk, culminating in Hólaskjól. This area shows land being formed, where volcanic activity, glaciers and raging glacial rivers create a unique landscape being shaped and created.
Then the hike goes over the Sveinstindur mountain at the end of the lake and down to Skaftá river to stay in an Útivist cabin. The lodge stands on the foundation of an old cabin used by sheep herders built in the old Icelandic architectural style. From the Sveinstindur summit the panorama of the mountain ranges
On the second day, the hike goes around Hvanngil and Uxatindar, across the Grettis’ mountain slopes and then heads to Skælingar, the Útivist cabin. It continues across a mountainous area where moss and other vegetation fights to survive and the hike sticks to the trails to avoid disturbing the nature. On the left is the Skafá glacier river that turns into a huge river every few years due to the effects of geothermal heating under the ice cap. This is the longest stretch of the hike and the feeling of arriving in Skælingur in the evening is indescribable. Skælingar is a very spectacular site on the banks of the Skafá river. There are unique lava formations from the Laki eruption, not widely found elsewhere. The small cabin, built with walls of turf merges into the landscape and provides a good shelter to stay and rest for the night.
Day Three
The third day we walk to the western edge of Eldgjá, a huge eruptive fissure believed to have erupted in 930 AD. A beautifully shaped waterfall falls into the gap. Follow the divide through the hall in Hólaskjól where we spend the last night. Hikers have a good time and celebrate their achievements.
Day Four
On the fourth day, take a short stroll. You can walk up the lava by Syðri Ófæra and is outstanding. In good visibility, you can view the waterfall some call Little Gullfoss. Day One see Öræfajökull glacier in the east and Mt. From Hólaskjól is Landmannaleið. On the first day, you drive up to the Langisjór Hekla in the west. The view of the Langisjór Ferðafélagið Útivist offers guided hikes highlands which, without doubt, has one of highlands and the green and black peaks of the most beautiful mountain lakes in Iceland. Fögrufjöll Mountains leave nobody untouched. on this unique route. A shuttle transports the group to and from the starting point. Luggage is transferred between the cabins so you just need to carry a day picnic and protective clothing. Participants only need to have good clothing, sleeping bags and food for the journey.
Útivist Travel Assn. Laugavegur 178 • 105 Reykjavik
+354 562 1000 skuli@utivist.is www.utivist.is
100
www.icelandictimes.com
More Iceland for less money
Blue Lagoon Schedule
Blue Lagoon to Reykjavik 12:30 / 14:00* / 16:00 / 18:00 / 20:30
Pickup at hotel in Reykjavik upon request 09:00 / 10:30 / 12:30 / 14:45 / 16:45
Blue Lagoon to Keflavik Airport 14:00 / 21:00**
Please book in advance.
* Via Keflavik Airport
Be ready in front of your hotel. Pickup can take up to 30 min.
** From 15. June – 15. Sept.
The South Coast - Skógafoss - Vík
Grand Golden Circle
Golden Circle Afternoon
Our tour takes us along the south shore and on to the charming village of Vík. Highlights on this tour: Waterfalls Skógafoss and Seljalandsfoss. The basalt columns at sandy beach of Reynis- fjara and the glacier Sólheimajökull, where you can touch the ice. We drive along the volcano Eyjafjallajökull, last eruption in 2010.
Highlights visited: The farming districts in the south, Faxi waterfall and the spectacular Geysir. The waterfall Gullfoss, the national park Thingvellir, including the Rift valley and the Rock of law which was the site of the first Viking parliament. Time for lunch at Geysir (not incl. in price).
Highlights visited: The national park Thingvellir, the waterfall Gullfoss, the spectacular Geysir.
Pick up time: Mon/Wed/Fri at 08:00 Duration: 10 hours Professional English guidance
Pick up time: Daily at 08:00 Duration: 8 hours Professional English guidance
Pick up time: Daily at 12:30 Duration: 5-6 hours Professional English guidance
Please notice: You can join The Blue Lagoon evening tour after arrival.
Explore the unique volcanic and arctic nature of Iceland
Tel: +354 511 2600
E-mail: bustravel@bustravel.is
bustravel.is
To u r i s m , C u lt u r e
and
Business
I s s u e 19 • 2013
A Secret Beauty spot
Þakgil is one of Iceland’s best-kept secrets for campers and hikers
L
et me take you on a journey. But first let me say that if you are on a mad-dash, whirlwind tour of Iceland via the ring road, then this is probably not going to be your cup of tea. If however, you have the time and inclination to go on a journey of discovery to an off-the beaten-path gem of scenic beauty, then this may be just the place for you.
Þakgil - a hiker’s paradise
15 km off the ring road, just 5 km from Vík, lies a small enclosed canyon, sheltered on all sides by steep, moss-covered vertical mountains. The f loor of the canyon is a grassy plain, about the size of an American football field, which serves as a camping site. For the less adventurous, nine recently built, snug pine huts are also available for rent. A gurgling brook passes merrily through the campground and when birds are singing nearby, you can be sure you have just discovered a little piece of heaven. A short walk up into a nearby ravine reveals the secret of Þakgil´s source of electricity—the smallest hydro-electric plant you have ever laid eyes on. The campground managers, Helga and Águst,
96
will be happy to give you the lowdown on its history, as well as information on several magnificent day hikes to the nearby Mýrdalsjökull Glacier. A dining hall, set in a large natural cave, comes replete with cooking grill and a fireplace for warmth on those cooler summer nights. wonderful rock formations, scenic panoramic views that go on forever and even the remains An alternative to Landmannalaugar of no less than two movie sets, Beowulf and the Getting to Þakgil is also part of the adventure American TV show, ‘Game of Thrones’, parts of itself. You will see all manner of weird and which were filmed right here. The gravel road is well maintained and your average passenger car can make it all the way to the campsite in about 30 minutes. Þakgil certainly has no trouble competing with the famous Landmannalaugar, which can get quite busy with tourists at the height of the season. One of the best things about Þakgil is that it has only become a holiday destination rather recently. Before 2000, the majority of Icelanders had never been here, making this one of Iceland’s best kept secrets. –
EMV
Þakgil Campground Höfðabrekkuafrétti • 870 Vík
+354 893 4889 helga@thakgil.is www.thakgil.is
www.icelandictimes.com
Refreshed under the Glacier
Halldór’s Café and Resaturant in Vík provides a delicious break
A
h Vik! That colourful little village known for its black sand beaches and offshore basalt columns that jut straight up from the sea. A place where the dazzling combination of pounding surf, majestic glaciers, and steep mountain pastures neatly come together, to form one of the most picturesque villages in Iceland. The 700 km 2 Mýrdalsjökull glacial icecap, which towers above the town, hides the notorious Katla volcano, which last erupted in 1918. You will be happy to note that all is quiet on that particular front these days. As if awakening from a long winter’s nap, the sleepy village, (pop. 290) comes to life
every spring in anticipation of the arrival of the many wide-eyed tourists who all fall in love with it each summer. The approach to the town from the west is especially captivating; the deep blue shimmering sea comes into view as you wend your way between precipitous slopes that usher you into the village below. On a sunny summer’s day when the sea is tranquil, the view is magical. In a quiet side street, off the main highway, stands a quaint little wooden house with a rich history. Built in the Westman Islands in 1831, it was dismantled and then rebuilt in Vík in
1895. The building was used continuously as Vík’s main retail shop from 1926 to 1980. It is now the home of Halldórskaffi and the Tourist Information Centre, which is open in summer from 8.00 am to 8.00 pm Halldórskaffi, open from 11.00 am to 11.00 pm, serves simple, yet wholesome meals throughout the day. I asked owner Kolbrún which are the most popular dishes and without any hesitation, she answers with a smile, ‘the arctic char and the hamburgers’. This is the kind of place that kids and teens will enjoy as well; tasty, filling, hamburgers, lamb and fish dishes, homemade pizza, soup of the day with home baked bread, and a selection of cakes are all on offer for the hungry traveller. An Icelandic beer, a glass of wine or other spirits are all options, and may be just the thing after a long day of sightseeing on Iceland’s charismatic south coast. –
KB
Halldórskaffi Víkurbraut 28 • 870 Vík
+354 847 8844
halldorskaffi@gmail.com www.halldorskaffi.is
www.icelandictimes.com
97
and
Business
I s s u e 19 • 2013
The Old Cowhouse Restaurant Sitting Pretty on Iceland’s South Coast
L
ocation wise, The Old Cowhouse Restaurant couldn’t be in a more perfect position for feasting your eyes upwards to the misty, craggy, moss-covered peaks of Eyjafjallajökull. It’s a welcome addition to Iceland’s ever-growing list of new amenities that have been popping up all over the country. The remodelled former barn easily seats 50 to 60 dinner guests while retaining its unpretentious character and sweet bovine
lEss THAN Two HoURs DRIvE fRom REykjAvík (140 km).
Reykjavík Eyjafjallajökull Þorvaldseyri
simplicit y, ma k ing this a thoroughly enjoyable place to stop for lunch or dinner while travelling the south coast. The menu boasts grass-fed beef, as is the norm in Iceland, coming straight from restaurant’s own cattle herds. A hearty and warming meat soup called Volcano Soup, served with homemade bread, is a favourite. Open year-round, the Old Cowhouse plans monthly events including an October evening of traditional food, a November
evening of game (reindeer and geese), a December buffet of traditional Christmas dishes, as well as musical evenings of Icelandic folk music at various times throughout the year. For opening hours in winter, please contact The Old Cowhouse Restaurant directly. Large and small groups welcome. –
EMV
Gamla Fjósið Hvassafell • 860 Hvolsvelli
+354 487 7788
oldcowhouse@gmail.com facebook.com/oldcowhouse
• ExPERIENCE THE ERUPTIoN THRoUgH fIlm (20 mIN) • sTUNNINg PHoTogRAPHs • PRoDUCTs fRom ÞoRvAlDsEyRI fARm foR sAlE • soUvENIRs
Welcome to the visitor centre at Þorvaldseyri
98 www.icelandictimes.com 861 HvolsvÖllUR • TEl. +354 487-5757 / 487-8815 • www.ICElANDERUPTs.Is • INfo@ ICElANDERUPTs.Is
PORT hönnun
To u r i s m , C u lt u r e
Containing the best articles from all around the country Packed with photos, maps and general information Colour-coded sections for easy reference and reading QR Codes with each article to use with your smartphone Over 400 pages long
The Ic elandic Times Book Available in all good bookshops and tourist centres
www.icelandictimes.com
To u r i s m , C u lt u r e
and
Business
I s s u e 19 • 2013
A Multinational Tapestry A long, artistic Icelandic story of intrigue and love
H
vol s völ lu r i n S out h Ic e l a nd i s not only the gateway to Iceland’s volcanic wilderness. Here you also enter ancient saga grounds. Almost 1,000 years ago incredible family dramas took place in the area. A 13th century scholar left us the story for posterity. The Saga of Njál deals with relationships and murder, and culminates in a dramatic family feud and the extinction of an entire clan. Displaying the saga in an exciting way, the museum of Hvolsvöllur shows probably the most unusual art project in Iceland: the Njál’s tapestry.
Njál in new ways
Icelandic sagas in their original language sound strange to our ears. The artist Kristín Ragna Gunnarsdóttir had the brilliant idea of converting Njál’s drama into a image project to be be created by visitors. Inspired by the fa mous tapestr y in Bayeux, Kristín has printed 91.5 metres of canvas with scenes and pictures of the Njálssaga and titled them with original quotations. The beautiful f igures and ornaments are now waiting to be stitched by diligent hands. Finely spun Icelandic wool is used for the embroidery. It was dyed with native herbs and is impressive with its fresh colours.
1000 years - 1000 hands
The project is ambitious. It might take 10 0 0 ha nd s to tra nsform t his 1,0 0 0 ye a r old s tor y i nto v ibr a nt i m a g e s . Everyone is invited to help in the project. Needlework artists sit next to members of bowling clubs, riders alongside hikers and managers. Whether you can only spare one hour, or want to spend a rainy afternoon in the cosy embroidery workshop, whatever country you may come from and whatever language you speak, you are welcome to join in and help. Images and colourful woollen threads a re connecting people of a ll nations and encouraging mutual awareness and
100
www.icelandictimes.com
storytelling - just as in the days of Njal, when people shared stories in the Viking halls. Is there a more enjoyable way to meet local people in a relaxed atmosphere? The impressive canvas roll rests on an easel and reveals only ten metres of Njálssaga - the work for all 2013. Each year ten metres of embroidery are scheduled to be completed, so no matter when you come, be part of the project!
Time travel with happy end
The Museum in Hvolsvöllur is a place for time travel. You can visit the exhibition of the Icelandic merchant’s association, or lose yourself in the maze of the saga exhibition. The latter especially tickles your senses by mixing an audio guide with meaningful replicas, like the clothes and weapons of Viking times, and with overwhelmingly expressive paintings of selected scenes of the saga. Take a deep breath when leaving the exhibition and relax in the museum café, built in Viking st yle. Take your time with a coffee or hot soup to catch up on the experience again and enjoy the photo exhibition in the hall. Young local artists are presenting their personal focus on Iceland. And maybe you will happen to be there when the next concert takes place. A programme can be found on the museum’s website. –
EMV
Rangárþing eystra Hlíðarvegur 16, 860 Hvolsvöllur
+354 488 4200
hvolsvollur@hvolsvollur.is www.hvolsvollur.is
Personal Iceland
Arrive as a customer, leave as a friend with Iceland Guided Tours
W
hen I was young, I travelled the world on a shoestring. I read everything I could and amassed volumes of travel books and guides. Looking back, I wonder what I missed because suddenly, all my cherished beliefs about independent travel came crashing down after a tour to the south coast with Iceland Guided Tours.
agree. Leaving the driving to others, I could just relax and enjoy the constantly changing weather and landscape. Our driver/guide was bursting with interesting knowledge, not only about what we were seeing, but a whole lot of insider information not found in guidebooks.
Guides with wit and knowledge
Iceland Guided Tours is run by a husband and Are you wearing glasses? wife team, Óðinn and Addý, who are long time I had read that seeing Iceland without a guide tour guides themselves and all their guides are was like leaving your glasses at home—and handpicked for their knowledge and ability to now, I have to say that I wholeheartedly deliver with wit and insight in English.
Tölt on the Volcano Icelandic Horse fun in Hveragerði
D
id your trip to Icela nd include Icelandic horses? Hardly anyone can escape the merry magic of this special breed of horses. You don’t have to go far to explore the Icelandic volcanic landscape with its natural hot springs and boiling mud pools on the back of an Icelandic horse. Solhestar, the riding tour operator in Hveragerði, offers all year round individual service to give you an unforgettable holiday experience. Take advantage of the pick-up service at your hotel and enjoy your horse riding tour.
Riding - Your choice
Sólmundur is bursting with ideas. You don’t fancy riding with a group? He will create a personal riding tour for you. Did you ever ride a horse around midnight? During summer Sólhestar offers a ride in the midnight sun. There is ha rd ly a more stirring experience than gliding smoothly on an inspired horse through the golden light in the timeless nature, smelling the dew, enjoying genuine Icelandic snacks and
www.icelandictimes.com
The little extras that make the difference
Small groups and personal service are the hallmarks of IGTours, using comfortable mini-buses. IGTours provides day tours and activities to various locations in Iceland. They can organise private tours for families and individuals by private car, Super Jeep, or minibus to any destination in Iceland. Now I only have one question...do I toss out the guide books? –
EMV
Iceland Guided Tours Borgarhraun 18 • 810 Hveragerði
+354 556 5566 info@igtours.is www.igtours.is
greeting the dawn. Or enjoy a day tour with the fresh sea air in your face while riding along the beach from the fishing town of Þorlákshöfn back to the farm. Sólhestar is a small family business, specialising in customised short riding tours. They can also organise riding tours for groups and longer tours. The dream of tölting on the volcano is just a click away. –
DT
Sólhestar Borgargerði • 801 Ölfus
+354 892 3066 solhestar@solhestar.is www.solhestar.is
101
To u r i s m , C u lt u r e
and
Business
I s s u e 19 • 2013
A Diverse Community Árborg is a worth the visit
Á
rborg is a community of three towns: the whole southern coastline, they went in Selfoss, Eyrarbakki and Stokkseyri on open boats, rowing for their lives. the south coast of Iceland, where lush farmlands and large lava fields intertwine to create one of the most interesting landscapes in Iceland. It is also densely populated and with people come culture, history and entertainment.
Conquering the sea
Þuríðarbúð in Stokkseyri is an interesting example of an old Icelandic fishing station and the exhibition inside is educational. From there the first Icelandic female cockswain sailed. Nearby, sits the Icelandic Wonders Museum with the ghosts, elves and trolls that roamed the land in ancient times. After a ghostly encounter it’s time for a spot of bird watching. The country’s largest river flows nearby The vast marshlands have shrunk but are still home to thousands of birds each year. It is a very popular spot for birdwatchers who flock here.
Culture In Eyrarbakki
Eyrarbakki has a heritage museum called, ‘Húsið’–‘the House’. This beautiful old house, built as a home for a merchant in 1765 was a great centre of culture in its time. There are many excellent restaurants a nd hotel s i n Á rborg a nd i n S el fos s t wo popu la r swimming pools. It’s a n excellent starting point to travel from to the many beautiful spots nearby. –
SS
Ráðhús Árborgar
The sea is a life giver as well as a life taker. Ever since the first settlers came ashore, boats have launched from these shores and brought back the catch of fish. With no harbour along
Austurvegi 2 • 800 Selfoss
+354 480 1900 radhus@arborg.is www.arborg.is
Coffee in traditional style
A Taste of Ethiopia
Ancient African Coffee and Cuisine in Upcountry Flúðir
F
lúðir is possibly one of t he be st locations in Iceland for an Ethiopian restaurant. Ethiopians are famous for their fasting 150 days a year, which means they are not allowed to eat any kind of meat. With Flúðir being one of the largest greenhouse areas in Iceland, the access to vegetarian ingredients has to be the best. Even when serving the traditional Ethiopian chicken and beef dishes, the plates are loaded with very fresh vegetables.
102
The owners of Minilik in Flúðir are Árni Hannesson and Aseb Kahssay and they opened the restaurant in June 2011. It has proved to be popular, especially with tourists—and the local people are catching on, too, warming to this exotic and wonderful food with locally grown vegetables and imported Ethiopian herbs and spices. Chicken and beef come from Icelandic stock and, blended together, they make a delicious meal that has to be tried.
www.icelandictimes.com
One cannot enter an Ethiopian restaurant without getting acquainted with their lovely coffee ceremony and at Minilik, Flúðir it is a real treat as the Ethiopians are second to none when it comes to coffee. The restaurant can seat 25 diners and also provides take-away. So, if you are staying in a summerhouse near Flúðir, you can also order their splendid dishes for both large and small parties. As Minilik is a small restaurant, be sure to book your table ahead. –
Minilik Restaurant Gilsbakka • 845 Flúðir
+354 846 9798
azeb-kassay@hotmail.com www.minilik.is
SS
An Idyllic Stay
Breakfast to the songs of birds
Fagrilundur Bed & Breakfast In the heart of the Golden Circle
T
ravelling around the Golden Circle, you pass through the village of Reykholt, known primarily for its horticultural farming using geothermal energy. Surrounded by trees, flowers and lawns, the newly-opened Fagrilundur Bed & Breakfast (formerly Kaffi Klettur), is right in the centre of the village. The lovely wooden chalet-style guesthouse is cosy, warm and inviting. Inside, several well-chosen Dutch antiques decorate the walls of the breakfast
room, and the lace curtains in the windows add to the rustic charm. Fagrilundur comprises 6 bedrooms. Upstairs, there are two large bedrooms that each sleep up to 4 people, with their own attached bathroom. On the ground floor, there are 4 smaller bedrooms that sleep 1 or 2 each, with shared bath. Bathrooms are all well-appointed with brand new modern fittings, comfortable hot showers, hair dryers, etc.
Raised on Chocolate
Café Mika’s chocolates have a past, present and future
M
ika was born and raised on chocolate. It flows in his blood and comes out in the most delicious delicacies—pralines so full of rich flavour that they never seem to last. They’re swiftly devoured by all who come in contact with them and it takes the strongest soul to actually make it home with them intact. Café Mika is becoming a popular place to stop when taking the Golden Circle tour as
it’s found in Reykholt, not far from Geysir, making it a nice break on your trip. But it’s not just the pralines that are attracting visitors, as Mika has a menu that has your taste buds watering just reading it over. For those interested in a snack, the rich hot chocolate drink, made fresh from beans sourced from all over the world, topped with whipped cream is stiff competition for traditional coffee.
www.icelandictimes.com
You wake to birds singing in the trees, the aroma of freshly made waffles and steaming hot coffee. You can have your breakfast on the broad wooden patio overlooking the garden, or inside in the breakfast room, as you wish! Reykholt offers a fine swimming pool, visits to the geothermal greenhouses, a small grocery store, ‘Café Mika’ Restaurant all close by. –
EMV/ASF
Fagrilundur guesthouse Skólabraut 1, Reykholt • 801 Selfoss
+354 486 8701 info@fagrilundur.is www.fagrilundur.is
For me, enjoying a meal at Mika’s is always worth the time. He takes traditional meals and adds that extra touch that makes them memorable. This summer, he is introducing a wood-burning pizza oven, a Big Green Egg grill for pizza, grills and smoking meats and fish and an ice cream maker to make his own specialities. See reactions on TripAdvisor and you’ll make it a point to stop by. –
ASF
Café Mika Skólabraut 4 • 801 Reykholt
+354 896 6450 mikaehf@simnet.is on Facebook
103
To u r i s m , C u lt u r e
and
Business
I s s u e 19 • 2013
Slakki Zoo’s 20 Anniversary th
F
or the past 20 years, both adults and children have been having fun, enjoying the animals and playing games at the Slakki Zoo and Play Centre in Laugarás, close to Skálholt cathedral and not far from the famous Geysir. It’s clear that it has struck a chord in the hearts of its visitors, many of whom return several times a year. Of course, the countryside is synonymous with animals. For the children to be able to experience animals close up, to be able to touch and hold many of them, is a treat that is rare for many nowadays. They love the opportunity to play with animals of all kinds and to look at the birds and fish in their own environments. Summer is a precious time in Iceland and everyone tries to make the most of it. With activities for all the family, adults included, it makes a great day out in a place where the simple joys of life can be indulged in by everyone.
106
A Safe and Fun Activity Day
There are animals of all sizes from horses to mice, pigs to ponies and everything in between. Some are inside and others can be enjoyed in the gardens. The kittens, for example, are a favourite inside their own little house, where children can hold and pet them for as long as they wish—and that can be a long time. This is a safe environment where parents can relax, knowing their children will be enjoying themselves without harm. Families often make a day of it. Besides the animals, there is a large aquarium and many different species of birds to enjoy. Even farmers come with their families— often wondering why their children love it so much when they have animals at home! It’s not just the animals, though. There are other games to play which unite the family in a fun entertainment such as the putting green and crazy golf.
www.icelandictimes.com
Relax with Restaurant Refreshments
Naturally, when you’re staying all day in a centre such as Slakki, refreshments are very important and here you will find a restaurant and café filled with home-made snacks, including delicious hamburgers with salad and apple cakes with cream. The café is in a small turf house, with plenty of seating outside where you can enjoy the sun and the yummy, locally-made Kjöris icecream. Stuffed animals may be fine at home, but nothing can replace the experience of holding or playing with live animals. No computer or TV can take their place, either, so it’s no surprise that many families return again and again. Slakki’s indoor zoo is open every day throughout the summer months until the end of August. It is one of Iceland’s secrets that is being revealed on the Internet, with pictures and videos being posted by
www.icelandictimes.com
contented customers a nd t hei r h appy children. If you’re driving the Golden Circle trip, see for yourself. It’s only a few minutes of f the main road to Geysir. You’ll find it a short distance past the cathedral in the village of Laugarás, just before the bridge and. after you see for yourself, I think you’ll agree it was well worth taking the time to visit this most unusual tourist attraction. If you have children, it’s a must!
–
ASF
Slakki Launrétt I • 801 Selfossi
+354 486 8783 helgi@slakki.is www.slakki.is
107
To u r i s m , C u lt u r e
and
Business
I s s u e 19 • 2013
Within The Golden Circle
Gallerí Guesthouse is surrounded by famous attractions
T
he s m a l l but bu s t l i n g tow n of Laugarvatn lies in the Golden Circle created by Þingvellir, Geysir, and Gulfoss and in the middle is the quaint and quiet Gallerí Bed and Breakfast. Started by owners Þuríður and Joel after their kids had flown the nest, three extra bedrooms are now f illed with tourists wanting more than the normal day trip to Iceland’s most famous attractions. From an enclosed patio, two of Iceland’s active
volcanoes: Eyafjallajökull and Hekla are clearly visible. Breakfast is included in the price of the room. Gallerí’s knack for handicrafts shows in light fixtures made by Þuríður and small decorations found throughout the rooms. The Gallerí store is where Þuríður and Joel’s artistry shines, allowing travellers to take home a small piece of Icelandic design. Joel and Þuríður’s hospitality extends an invitation to their guests to come along
Down Into the Depths Caving with Laugarvatn Adventure
T
he mouth of Gjábakkahellir leads down to rocky paths hollowed out by lava flows that pushed through earth, forming the cave’s smooth and polished walls near Laugarvatn, the town within the Golden Circle. The experienced guides of Laugarvatn Adventure have had over a decade of training in caving and can navigate through almost any of these caves. Tours vary in difficulty from Gjábakkahellir’s relatively
104
and find out the café’s secret to tasty bread, baking it in a natural hotspring close to Geysir. This bread is served along with slices of salmon each day at the Gallerí café. –
KB
Gallerí Laugarvatn Háholti 1 • 840 Laugarvatni
+354 486 1016
galleri@simnet.is www.gallerilaugarvatn.is
gentle descent to Tintron’s vertical drop accessible only by abseiling down a rope. Lauagar vatn Adventure’s three cave tours let visitors safely delve into the depths of Litli Björn cave. Tours are offered every with the help of guides who were educated day from May through August with a two in caving and are active members of the person minimum necessary for departure. – KB Icelandic Search and Rescue Team. Children over five can even go on some of the easier Laugarvatn Adventure tours, while adults tackle the challenge of Háholti 2c • 840 Laugarvatni +354 862 5614 rock climbing on Þingvellir’s craggy cliffs or smari@caving.is www.caving.is crawling through a small hole at the opening
www.icelandictimes.com
A Taste of Iceland’s Wild & Sweet Laugarvatn’s Lindin Restaurant & Café Bistro
L
indin Restaurant & Bistro Café, located on the banks of Lake Laugarvatn, has a firm foundation of culinary excellence that attracts patrons from around the world. Owner, Baldur Öxdal Halldórsson, pastry and master chef, trained at the Hotel and Restaurant School of Iceland. But it was between 1980–1984, as he received training as a pastry chef at the Culinary Institute of America, New York and worked with two pastry chefs at the Palio restaurant in Manhatten that he got his inspiration to specialise in chocolate and desserts that, in 1986–1987, led him to the prestigious Richemont Professional School in Lucerne from 1988–1989, where he developed his interest in the art of chocolate and learnt the secrets behind a great dessert.
After his training abroad was completed, Baldur began something of a culinary revolution in Reykjavik, working at many of the top hotels and restaurants, creating spectacular and sophisticated desserts that were hitherto unknown in the capital.
Mecca of Icelandic Wild Game
Baldur took over Lindin Restaurant in 2002 which has become known as the ‘Mecca of Icelandic wild game’, with its lamb, fish, seafood and game caught in the wild. His menu is seasonal and features exotic dishes that can be made from reindeer, goose, duck, cormorant, guillemot, puffin, minke whale or pan-fried arctic char. Always on the cutting edge, you can be sure of finding new and exciting additions to his dessert menus such as his delectable chocolate mousse with raspberry sauce, with watermelon pieces and white chocolate foam and his skyr mousse with crow berries and rhubarb.
Passion for purity and freshness
Passionate about food, Baldur insists on the absolute purity and freshness of all his ingredients. Located in the heart of Iceland’s ‘greenhouse belt’, he can take his pick of the choicest fruits and vegetables grown in the
www.icelandictimes.com
area year round. The restaurant even has its own small kitchen garden, providing a fresh supply of rhubarb, chervil, red and blackcurrants. The lamb and venison come from N.E. Iceland and are known for their delicious flavour, fed on mountain herbs. The Arctic char are caught fresh from either Lake Þingvellir or Lake Apavatn daily.
In the heart of the Golden Circle
Lindin is located in the village of Laugarvatn, right beside the lovely natural sauna, steam baths and pool at the Fontana Spa. The 45 minute scenic drive from Reykjavik takes you through enchanting landscapes. Laugarvatn is half-way between Þingvellir and Geysir and Gullfoss, making it an excellent choice for a day trip to in one of the most scenic areas of Iceland. You can also now stay at any time of year in Laugarvatn at either the Golden Circle Apartments next to Lindin, the Gallerí Guesthouse or the village hostel to enjoy the Northern Lights in winter and the midnight sun in summer and the spectacular views from Lindin’s terrace and garden across the lake to the Hekla and Eyjafjallajökull volcanoes. –
EMV/ASF
Lindin Restaurant Lindarbraut 2 • 840 Laugarvatni
+354 486 1262 lindin@laugarvatn.is www.laugarvatn.is
105
Whether you want to picnic beside Lake Mývatn or climb the glaciers above Skaftafell Vatnajökull National Park — A Guidebook is your ideal companion. The handy little tome provides essential and thorough information about all the best sights in the park. Available in Icelandic, English and German.
“A wonderful pocket guide” Eric Hansen, reporter for The New York Times
Friends of Vatnajökull - nonprofit association supporting Vatnajökull national park
The Power of Images
A photographer in the footsteps of the Vikings
Þ
eir Flosi riðu vestur á sand - Flosi and his men rode over the sand to the west. Behind this brief line from chapter 126 of the Njáls saga hides a drama that began with manslaughter and ends with a vendetta approved by the Althing, or parliament, almost 1000 years ago. “It is very exciting saga material and a challenge to any image creator”, says Br y nja r Á g ú st sson, photog rapher i n Reykjavik, and he starts to describe this scene of men on horseback, who came from Mount Svínafell, and rode round the back side of Eyjafjallajökull into the harsh valley of Markarfljót, in order to set fire to Njál’s house.
Stories like pictures
Moments of emotion
B r y nj a r, a r e n o w n e d l a n d s c a p e photographer, is a former member of the Rimmugýgur Icelandic Viking Community from Hafnarfjördur. During his active years, he discovered his passion for the historic scene portrait. He has captured stunning moments on screen – moments with a whole story behind them that, with a fitting caption added, can unfold within the viewer’s mind without letting him go. Was Flosi, from the Njáls saga mentioned above, a murderous incendiary or a man of honour? A photo could say more than many words. W hat kind of expression would we find on the face of a man like Gunnar, whose wife consciously sent him to death, when she refused to give some hair to fix his longbow? The saga remains silent about Gunnar’s feelings. A picture of the scene could present the drama in an overwhelming way and touch much more than Hallgerdur’s simple remark: “Then I’ll remind you of your slap now.”
Transferring the Icelandic sagas into images - that is Brynjar’s objective. He has already earned a reputation with his impressive Viking period portraits: men’s faces – speaking of drama, passion and steely determination; or the end of a fight – eerie funeral scenes in twilight, scared women in a shady hut. Pictures like these directly grab Life stage for the photographer the viewer’s attention in a way that no line Brynjar has already carried out several of text could ever do. projects, for example, Silfur Egils, the
119
www.icelandictimes.com
historic a l ex hibit ion about Mosfel lsd a lu r du ring t he Viking Age. After shooting, he works on his material with a professional image-editing program and create s a specia l nu a nc e of f a nt a s y by d e l ib e r at e ly alienating the pictures in order to drag the viewer’s eye deeper into the scene.
Pictures are our language
“The photos tell entire stories”, says Brynjar, “Today’s world consist s a lmost ent irely of pictures. We have grown into it and the young generation especially is able to deal with the forcefulness of pictures rather than words.” From his point of view, at historical sites such as the old parliament at Thingvellir, or Borgarfjörður, where Egil’s saga takes place, visitors would be much better off with information boards that display large scale photos in the style he offers, subtitled by thrilling short texts, than
with endless readings. “Pictures speak our language, in any language”, he says. His Egil’s saga pictures show famous scenes from the story, for example, when Egill secretly buries his silver treasure and when he, himself, is buried. There are also amazing panorama pictures that show everyday life in the time of the Sagas. Brynjar works on different Icelandic sagas’ scenes for shooting and provides professional Viking models who use authentic costumes and props. The scene is compiled and the setting is professionally edited by the photographer. The saga settings are all over Iceland. He might travel to the highlands and shoot exciting scenes at raging glacial rivers or in the endless volcanic desert, for example - a feast for any creative artist. Brynjar’s pictures are characterised by their own handwriting. His landscape photography is overwhelming and almost unsettling in its blend of outstanding clarity and soft focus lens. The extremely bright light in Iceland challenges every photographer. Br ynjar’s pictures show Iceland the way it is really like behind the light. They show the mighty power of colours and the dynamics of the landscape. Visit his website www.panorama.is and get inspired! – DT
120
I s s u e 19 • 2013
© Karin Gerhartl
The Icelandic Horse A true companion through rough times
W
hen Iceland was settled before the year 1000 AD, settlers not only brought sheep and household items on their small sailing vessels. Horses joined the dangerous trip across the northern seas. First findings of saddles and bridles date back to 10th century, when Iceland still was pagan and people believed in the god Odin who rode Sleipnir, an eight-legged shamanic horse with magic powers. Icelandic saga literature is filled with stories about horses, not only as a means of transport in daily life, but as a sign of wealth and object of desire. The most famous example was the horse Freyfaxi in Hrafnkel’s saga. Nobody was allowed to ride Freyfaxi, and a fatal feud started when Hrafnkel’s shepherd, Einar, ignored the ban and was subsequently killed by his master.
110
Brave partners
The Icelandic horse is a small, sturdy breed from Scandinavia that came with the settlers. It must have been a brave one, too, with strong nerves, considering the long boattrip to Iceland. In post-settlement centuries, merchants added horses from the continent, and the Icelandic breed developed into what we have today: a small riding horse with a height of around 138 cm (54 in or 13.6 hands) to the highest point of the withers; surefooted, with a nice and willing temperament; tough and resilient in its physical strength, a friendly and independent, gregarious animal. Icelandic horses have survived harsh winters, famine, and volcanic eruptions and assisted man as partners in ploughing, harvesting and carrying heavy loads like fish, timber, hay or stones.
www.icelandictimes.com
Cars only came to Iceland after World War II. Until then, a group of horses would carry people long distances, through deserts of lava, ice and sand, crossing glacial rivers on small boats or by swimming. Machines have taken over labour and traffic now. However, for one job, the Icelandic horse still is practically irreplaceable: gathering the free-ranging sheep from the Highlands in early autumn. Here the secret bonds between man and horse are still tangible. Famous poems have praised the horse through the ages. In olden times, horses were often buried next to their late owners
© Brynjar Eggertsson
Business
© Karin Gerhartl
and
© Sonja Valeska Krebs
To u r i s m , C u lt u r e
Tölt – the long-distance gait
Unlike other breeds, Icelandic horses have two additional gaits: tölt and pace. Tölt is a four-beat lateral gait with only one foot carrying the weight at a time, providing a smooth and comfortable ride on long distances. The pace is a fast, two-beat lateral gait used for racing over short distances. In the Middle Ages in Europe, the special tölt gait almost disappeared in breeding, as it was not suitable for carriages. In the inhospitable Icelandic landscape, carriages have never been used, and the tölt survived. In the 16th century, Icelandic horses were sought after by Danish shepherds because of their tölt. Tölt is still enjoyed today, riding for pleasure through Iceland’s beautiful landscape. Just as in the old days, people
join highland and cross country riding trips with 2-4 horses, changing their riding horse about once an hour to keep them fresh and willing. Visitors can also enjoy the qualities of the horses in numerous shows and competitions during the summer.
just completed his 209th ride of 50 miles and will be the highest mileage gaited horse in equestrian sports.
Horses form a strong part of Icelandic culture. Colourful herds, graze calmly on endless meadows, braving the elements. There Today’s athletes is nothing so peaceful as being with them on In order to protect the stock’s health, Iceland a sunny day and no freedom like riding them banned the import of horses in 1909. Since through lava fields and across rivers, as men the 1950s the export of Icelandic horses to did hundreds of years ago. – DT the continent has increased, in the post-war years as working horses, and later as athletic riding companions. With a total population of 300,000 Icelandic horses worldwide, they can be found in almost any European country, the US and New Zealand. Every second year, a world championship takes place to present the best horses of the breed. Due to their hardiness, they are also popular in endurance competition. One of the most successful endurance horses in Europe is an Icelandic horse. In the US, a 25 year old Icelandic endurance champion, Remington,
www.icelandictimes.com
111
© Brynjar Eggertsson
to demonstrate the strong relationship. This, of course, is no longer allowed, but as late as 1920, a farmer in South-Iceland decided to share a grave with his horse, on the slope of a mountain they both loved to explore.
Let Books Brag For You New Landscape Photography - I Was Here
B
ragging about your perfect holiday can become a bit tiresome after a while, as you keep repeating the same stories, but never fully capture your experiences. The solution is a professional photography book with the best of what Iceland has to offer that does all the bragging for you – and, of course, keeps your memories alive. The book in question is aptly named “I Was Here” and will be released in the summer of 2013. Author, Kristján Ingi Einarsson, is one of Iceland’s most experienced photographers and respected in his field and has two other landscape books to his name: The Essence of Iceland in 2009 and Iceland so Quiet in 2010, as well as countless other projects and exhibitions. Kristján is particularly enamoured with the tranquillity and stillness in the nature of Iceland and is always looking out to find something new. “The unspoiled and peaceful landscapes in collaboration with the ever changing weather and light seem to create endless photographic opportunities of both the grand and the tiniest details. You can take thus take pictures on the same spot over and over again, but they will never turn out exactly the same. That’s why I often compare photography in Iceland to fishing,
www.icelandictimes.com
because you never know what you’re going to come home with,” says Kristján. He thus prefers to let the pictures come to him and, as an avid traveller in his home country, there never seems to be a lack of inspiration. His new book comes in a new and exciting panoramic format, which Kristján says gives certain pictures added value and presents them in a new light, in addition to the book being very compact and handy.
122
Birdwatching in paradise Birding sites around Lake Mývatn
M
ývatn is a shallow and highly fertile lake with powerful fresh water springs and extensive areas of geothermal heat. Invertebrates thrive in the lake and they provide the food for the huge number of birds living in the area. Mý vat n is one of t he be st k now n birdwatching sites in Iceland and is also a Ramsar site. Fifteen species of ducks breed regularly at Mývatn and the River Laxá, and there are few places in the world with such a diversity of breeding wildfowl. Barrow’s Goldeneye is the area’s flagship species and the greatest density of breeding Harlequin Duck in the world is found in the upper
Great Northern Diver calling
117
reaches of the River Laxá; these species breed nowhere else in Europe but Iceland. The same is true of the Great Northern Diver, which also breeds at Mývatn. Other species which breed at Mývatn include Whooper Swan, Greylag Goose, Pink-footed Goose, Redthroated Diver, Horned Grebe, Gyr Falcon, Merlin, Rock Ptarmigan, various waders, including large a population of Red-necked Phalarope, Black-headed Gull, Arctic Tern, Short-eared Owl and Eurasian Wren. Almost 120 species have been recorded at Mývatn.
in the winter and often attracts large numbers of birds at that time of year. In winter the water often gives off a lot of steam owing to the presence of geothermal heat and it sometimes makes for an impressive sight. In winter it is one of the main sites for dabbling ducks at Mývatn; in summer all species of dabbling duck which breed in Iceland can be found here, including the rarest, the Northern Shoveler. Other species breed here, including several pairs of Horned Grebe, and waders and gulls can often be seen on spits of land jutting out into the bay.
Take a Tour from Reykjahlíð
The Dry Rocks of Dimmuborgir
Let’s take a tour clockwise around Mývatn, approximately 35 km by road, and visit a few of the best birdwatching sites. Just below the old hotel at Reykjahlíð is a pretty stretch of the lakeshore with a number of small islets. Horned Grebes breed commonly here and various dabbling ducks can be seen here too— sometimes Northern Shovelers are present. It is a very pleasant place to go birdwatching. Just south of the village of Reykjahlíð, there is a bay called Helgavogur. The bay is ice-free
www.icelandictimes.com
Dimmuborgir is a special place. Apart from the lava formations and bizarre landscape, the bird life here differs from elsewhere around the lake. It is a very dry place and cliff-nesting birds such as the Common Raven, Merlin and Gyr Falcon all breed here. Redwing and Eurasian Wren are conspicuous in the scrubland. At Höfði, there are native birch woodlands with patches of rowan, and numerous introduced species have been planted. There
Drakes Barrow‘s Goldeneye fighting for territory
A male Harlequin Duck in current are a variety of birds, with a range of passerines, including Eurasian Wren, Redwing, and Common Redpoll. In the bay to the north of Höfði there are large numbers of ducks and Barrow’s Goldeneye breeds in the lava formations; there is often a great commotion in the spring when the females are fighting over the best nesting sites and chase each other around and are then joined by the males.
Around the Klasar Rock Pillars
Along the shore at Ytrivogar there is a path leading to the Klasar rock pillars, which must feature on every second postcard of Mývatn. There are various birds along this path, including Horned Grebe which breeds
in the reeds right by the path, and a range of breeding ducks. There are often a lot of birds at Birtingatjörn, on the other (eastern) side of the road but unfortunately there is nowhere to stop the car to watch them. Lake Stakhólstjörn forms part of the protected area around the pseudocraters at Skútustaðir. The islet in the lake is home to nesting Great Northern Divers. You can often hear the haunting call of the divers on beautiful spring and summer evenings. Kritartjörn is separated from the lake by a long, narrow spit of land. To the south and west there are large expanses of sedge, which are home to Horned Grebes and numerous dabbling ducks. There are often lots of Whooper Swans here and at Álftagerði, near Skútustaðir, the bay is often teeming with birds.
A Parade of Harlequins
An aggressive Long-tailed Duck drake
The River Laxá in the Mývatn area is one of the best known breeding sites for Harlequin Duck in the world. Food is plentiful and the birds dive to the bottom of the river to catch black fly larvae. It is also one of the best sites for brown trout fishing in Iceland.
www.icelandictimes.com
A male Tufted Duck taking off
A pair of Horned Grebe in courtship dance In years when there is little food in the lake itself but there are still plenty of black flies, lots of other birds come to the river. Barrow’s Goldeneye raise their young here and the river hosts plenty of other ducks. On the western side of the lake from Vagnbrek ka to Neslandavík there are numerous good sites for birdwatching. The road closely follows the lakeshore. As this is a protected breeding area from May to July, it is not recommended that you leave your car or walk around here—it is much better to watch the birds from your car. There are often flocks of dabbling ducks, diving ducks, Great Northern Divers, geese, Horned Grebes, waders, gulls and Arctic Terns here. The western shore is the best place to find Common Scoters at Mývatn. It is less common on the eastern shore but can be found there too. The bird museum at bay Neslandavík is one of the best birdwatching sites at Mývatn. A f lock of several dozen Whooper Swans moult there and in late summer you can find hundreds, if not thousands, of ducks on the bay. Horned Grebe, geese, ducks and various – JÓH other birds breed around the bay.
118
Images by © jóhann Óli Hilmarsson
A pair of Horned Grebes feeding young
It’s a Bird’s Life M
Oneyearinthelifeofthe birds in the Lake Mývatn area
ývatn is known to birders throughout the world for its rich bird life, particularly its abundance of breeding wildfowl. No other site in Europe can boast such a diverse range of breeding ducks as the Mývatn area. Fourteen of the sixteen species of duck which breed in Iceland can be found here; the Common Eider and Common Shelduck are coastal species and are therefore rarely seen at Mývatn. Three other species of wildfowl, Whooper Swan, Greylag Goose and Pink-footed Goose, also breed in the area. Two species of divers and one grebe breed: Great Northern Diver, Red-throated Diver and Horned Grebe. Their habits resemble those of ducks in many ways, at least during the summer.
A pair of Red-necked Phalaropes
127
A pair of Horned Grebes feeding young
Different habitat
the end of April the Horned Grebe starts its magnificent courtship display. In May, the elaborate display of numerous species of ducks reaches its climax. May and June are the best months for birdwatching. Nature is recovering from the long, hard winter and the birds are extremely active and conspicuous. The countryside is filled with the sound of bird song, courtship and lively displays, the sun barely dips below the horizon and the symphony of nature seems endless. Drakes are particularly impressive at this time of year, with Long-tailed Duck and Barrow’s Goldeneye fighting vigorously for mates and territory. Harlequin Ducks hurtle along the River Laxá and the Great Northern Diver can be heard wailing out on the lake.
The Mývatn area offers you a wide range of excellent bird watching sites. Bird life and bird habitats are extremely diverse, typified in this region by highland oases, lakes of global importance for birds, rich birch woods and scrubland. Wetlands and small lakes are frequently encountered and moorlands are found widely. The Remaining Months In July, everything seems to calm down and Spring the adult birds get on with quietly feeding In April, as spring arrives and the ice on the and raising their young. The drakes moult lake melts, migratory birds flock to Iceland. and group. Drake Harlequin Ducks and Fields, ponds, lakes and rivers are swamped Common Scoters head for the sea. with birds arriving from Europe and Africa. In Aug ust, t he birds gat her for The first breeders, like Raven and Gyr m i g r at ion a nd t hos e t h at t r ave l t he Falcon, have already laid their eggs and at longest dista nces, like t he W himbrel
www.icelandictimes.com
Pair of Harlequins on the fast flowing water of River Laxá
Other birds
Waders often nest in or close to rich, vegetated marshland, which is a common habitat in the Mý vatn area. They take advantage of the abundance of midges and can often be seen on the shores of the lake, picking up insects which have drifted ashore. One of the most characteristic birds of the Mývatn area is the Red-necked Phalarope. Eight species of waders breed in the area, including Black-tailed Godwit, and several more species are seen regularly.
Black-headed Gull is the most common gull in the Mývatn area and the only species which breeds in any number. Lesser Blackbacked Gulls and Great Black-backed Gulls are summer visitors to the lake. The Arctic Tern is a common breeder but it does not
Snow Bunting and Northern Wheatear nest in lava fields, stone walls and craters. Other land birds are the resident Gyr Falcon and Rock Ptarmigan, and the migrant Merlin and Short-eared Owl.
Midges
The midges at Mývatn (which means Midge Lake in Icelandic) and the River Laxá are the mainstay of the local birds’ existence. If the midges were absent, there would be far fewer birds. The larvae of non-biting chironomid midges live in the lake itself; they develop in the mud on the lake bed and live on diatoms and decaying organic matter. Black fly larvae, on the other hand, attach themselves to rocks in the River Laxá and feed on passing debris. A drake Harlequin Duck Only the black fly bites; chironomids simply breed in large colonies at Mývatn. Arctic irritate people, livestock and birds by flying Skuas breed on the surrounding moorlands. into their noses, eyes and ears. The varied habitats around Mývatn attract a range of passerines and the abundance of – JÓH insects provides rich pickings for them and other birds in the area. Birch scrubland and Mývatnsstofa woodlands are home to Iceland’s typical Hraunvegur 8 • 660 Mývatn +354 464 4390 forest birds, like the Redwing, Common info@visitmyvatn.is www.visitmyvatn.is Redpoll and Eurasian Wren, for example.
www.icelandictimes.com
128
Images by © jóhann Óli Hilmarsson
a nd t he A rc t ic Ter n, le ave for t hei r wintering grounds. Mý vatn is by now swa rming wit h duck s if t he breeding season has been successful. September is the main migration month in north-east Iceland but geese and some ducks and passerines do not leave until October. However, numerous birds remain in the area during the winter. At Mývatn and River Laxá some areas remain open all winter and attract resident Whooper Swans, Barrow´s Goldeneyes, Goosanders and Mallards. Even a few Harlequins can sometimes be found on the river in winter.
To u r i s m , C u lt u r e
and
Business
I s s u e 19 • 2013
The World’s Largest Mammal on Display The Icelandic Museum of Natural History Gets its Crowning Jewel
W
hen a n Icela nder ha s a bit of good luck and finds or discovers something by chance that benefits him greatly, you’ll often hear the word ‘hvalreki’ —which literally means ‘beached whale’. It’s a rare occurrence that, in olden times, could even feed an entire village through the long and harsh winter and was valued accordingly. When a 24-metre (80 feet) long blue whale was found beached in the North of Iceland in 2010, it turned out to be a ‘hvalreki’ in both meanings of the word, as such a large and intact specimen has not been previously
125
found in Iceland and will undoubtedly be one of the most popular items of Icelandic Museum of Natural History. In 2014, the museum will be relocated to the grand Perlan building, a revolving mirrored dome on top of five giant water ta nk s, of fering views over t he whole capital area.
The Crowning Jewel
The blue whale is thought to be the biggest animal ever to have lived on earth and this specimen is among the largest of those. It weighed around 120 tons and, to give you an
www.icelandictimes.com
idea of the creature’s immensity: its tongue weighed about the same as a full-grown elephant and its heart about the size of a small car. Dr. Hilmar J. Malmquist, manager of Icelandic Museum of Natural History, says that he sees the blue whale as the crowning jewel in the museum’s future. “It is extremely rare to discover an intact skeleton of this size, as only ten or so beached blue whales have been found here during the past century. Then the carcasses are rarely intact. Some of the bones are, in fact, quite fragile and need to be preserved according to exact
a large piece. The Perlan building is open from the basement to the glass dome at its peak. The whale’s head could possibly be positioned on the lowest floor in the open space between the water tanks and the skeleton could reach diagonally up some 10–15 metres, almost to the top where the glass dome is. Visitors could thus examine the skeleton on the different platforms on the way to the top.
The Icelandic Natural History Society was founded in 1889 with one of its primary goals being the establishment of a suitable home for such a museum in the capital area. A lthough the natura l sciences and nature preservation have been diligently carried out through other institutions, it isn’t until now that the museum has found a fitting venue. There, visitors will be provided with a detailed and informative insight into A 124 Year Old Dream Comes True Iceland ’s nature, while education for The Icelandic Museum of Natural History all levels and scientific research will be hasn’t really found a permanent home till now. undertaken at the centre.
www.icelandictimes.com
Image by © Þorvaldar Björnsson
specifications which also contributes to the fact that very few whole blue whale skeletons exist around the world,” says Hilmar. T he blue w h a le i s a l s o b e c om i n g increasingly rare in the world’s oceans, Hilmar explains, as the populations have gone down from maybe t wo to three hundred thousand a century ago to ten to t welve thousand today. About one thousand blue whales inhabit Icelandic waters for part of the year. Even though the Museum’s exhibitions have not been fully designed yet, Hilmar says the Perlan building is perfect for such
126
To u r i s m , C u lt u r e
and
Business
I s s u e 19 • 2013
ExploreCultureandHistoryontheSnæfellsnesPeninsula
O
n the northern part of the Snæfellsnes peninsula lies St yk k ishólmur, a picturesque seaside town that overlooks the beautiful Breiðafjörður bay. The town’s rich history as a centre for trading, transportation, culture and service for the bay area gives it a unique sense of antiquity and historical significance. The town’s centre is home to some of the most colourful and oldest houses in the country–making it almost a museum in itself.
Seeping into the Culture
T he mayor of St yk k ishól mu r, Gyða Steinsdóttir, says that its proximity with the Breiðafjörður Bay contributes a large part to the town’s character. “We’ve enjoyed the riches of the bay and its magnificent beauty
129
for centuries on end and that tends to seep The Living Bay into the town’s character,” says Gyða. If you only have time to do one thing while you’re in Stykkishólmur, a chance to The Past that Lives Today go sailing in Breiðarfjörður Bay is not to Stykkishólmur’s historical significance be missed. There are several trips available, also contributes to its unique character. It one of which is a comfortable tour boat ride served as a centre for trade and commerce where visitors are invited to enjoy fresh sushi centuries ago, as well as a seat of government. - tasting whatever comes up when the nets Gyða says that Stykkishólmur’s inhabitants are pulled in – fresh sea-urchin, for example have consciously made an effort to preserve – while sailing around the seemingly the town’s old spirit, both by preserving countless islands. the town’s image and by maintaining old There’s also the option of guided tours on traditions from the bay area. Visitors will so-called RIB boats that are able to get up get a chance to experience this when going close to the islands so visitors can see—and out to eat in Stykkishólmur, where they’ll photograph—its inhabitants: seals and a get fresh ingredients from the bay and multitude of colourful seabirds, including surrounding area, served on plates made by the famously distinctive puffin from just a local designers from local materials. few metres away.
www.icelandictimes.com
Steeped in History
History and culture are prominent in St yk k ishólmur as the town has three museums. In the ‘Norwegian House’ you will find the Snæfellsnes district museum. There you can receive a lot of information about the region and its history. The house itself was built in 1832 by Árni Thorlacius, who was a merchant and ship owner in the 19th century.
The Ice Museum
Stykkishólmur has also two fine museums that represent the two strong elements of Icelandic nature: ice and fire, in both original and conventional ways. In the case of ice, on the highest point of Stykkishólmur, with its splendid views, the old town library has been
changed into a museum of water, weather and words. In the museum you’ll find 24 glass columns with specimen of water from all the primary glaciers of Iceland, in a piece made by renowned artist, Roni Horn.
The Volcano Museum
Dr. Haraldur Sigurðsson, the world-famous volcanologist, founded the Volcano Museum in 2009. In the museum, you can not only learn about everything connected with volcanoes, eruptions and other geological matters, but also see how these strong forces of nature have been expressed through the centuries, not only in Iceland but also around the world through works of art, multimedia displays and exhibits.
www.icelandictimes.com
The Perfect Base
Accommodation and ser vices in Stykkishólmur are plentiful, from a quality campsite, budget hostels and high-class hotels. You’ll find quality restaurants, a supermarket, golf course and the obligatory Icelandic swimming pool, where the local people gather and exchange opinions on everything from the weather to politics. The Snæfellsnes peninsula is a must when coming to Iceland. It is strewn with natural, historical and mystical phenomena and Stykkishólmur is the ideal base to explore it. –
VAG
Stykkishólmur Aðalgata 29 • 340 Stykkishólmur +354 433 8120 travelinfo@stykkisholmur.is www.stykkisholmur.is/thjonustan/tourist-info/
130
To u r i s m , C u lt u r e
and
Business
I s s u e 19 • 2013
Prepare for Lunar Landing
Europe’slargestareaofunspoilednatureisMývatnTours’playground
T
ravelling in the uninhabited interior of Iceland is unforgettable. In the safe hands of Myvatn Tours, with 30 years experience guiding visitors in this particular area of this terrain, it is nonetheless an adventurous day, driving across the largest open area of unspoiled nature in Europe with breathtaking landscapes, an environment of magnificently simple splendour, dominated by sandy deserts, stark or moss-covered lava plains, everpresent mountains and volcanoes, incredible colours, roaring waterfalls, unbridged rivers,
colourful sulphurous fields, delicate but rich flora, young lava fields, and ice-cold glaciers. It was on this terrain that the US astronauts practiced for their lunar landing. Located north of Vatnajokull, about 100 km south of Mývatn, there is little rainfall. Described as a ‘complex of nesting calderas’ in the rain shadow of Vatnajokull glacier, the area is known as Ódáðahraun, or the ‘desert of crimes’—an intriguing name for the largest lava field in Iceland. Created by an immense volcanic eruption thousands of years ago, followed by others,
including one in 1875 and a smaller one in 1961, the main caldera measures 55 km across, giving you some idea of the volume of material which has been ejected. In the aftermath of the explosions, a series of craters were formed, and one such crater is the opaque, milky blue Lake Öskjuvatn, the deepest freshwater lake in Iceland. It was this eruption in 1875 that caused much hardship around Iceland and resulted in the largest emigration of the Icelandic population to Canada and United States in subsequent years. The tour takes 11-12 hours and it starts at 8 am at the Information Centre in Reykjahlíð, Mývatn. From there you will be driven through the wondrous Mývatnsöræfi. The mountain road is surprisingly comfortable compared to many others. It’s a rare privilege to stop and sip the clear water of the spring-fed rivers that you have just forded in this remote Highland paradise!
–
Mývatn Tours Arnarnesi • 660 Mývatni
+354 464 1920
myvatntours@gmail.com www.askjatours.is
131
www.icelandictimes.com
EMV
We provide only new cars At competitive prices
Since 1979
Pick up service at your hotel or guest house Int.Airport KeflavĂk & Dom. Airport ReykjavĂk | Tel.: +354 554 6040 | atak@atak.is | www.atak.is