LATIN FOOD FUSION COMES TO BOISE

Tacos are elevated to performance art on plates and platters made for sharing at Coa De Jima in downtown Boise. PHOTO COURTESY OF COA DE JIMA

By April Neale

Latin fusion food and the rich food culture of Mexico, Central America, and beyond are having their moment in the Treasure Valley From urban Michelin-starred restaurants to humble hole-in-the-wall eateries, the Idaho Latin food scene is growing and is so much more than a bowl of chips, salsa, refried beans, and rice. Forget the restaurants of where you came from. In Idaho, the rural and urban farms turn out great ingredients that give these new chefs who excel in the southern Latin flavors—from Mexico to Argentina the ammunition to create outstanding dishes that transcend the food genre most of you knew growing up.

A fresh oyster dressed “Coa De Jima” style.

PHOTO COURTESY OF COA DE JIMA

Boise landmark restaurant Barbacoa and the Castoro family of Del Mar, California, are leading with beautifully wrought dishes created by their longtime chef partner, Enrique Martinez, who was born in Cuernavaca, Mexico, and came of age in Southern California. Martinez has been with the Castoro family since 1997, who has weathered their share of adversity First, a fire destroyed the original dining space in 2010, and then the owner, Robert Castoro, passed away unexpectedly in 2021. But in the wake of the tumult, son Nikolai Castoro has stepped in boldly to continue his father’s vision and success of Idaho’s most prodigious seller of liquor and food service sales at the Barbacoa on Parkcenter. The concept of his late father Robert and mother Martine, an accomplished artist and designer, was to create this experiential dining destination in Boise. The family saw great opportunity back in the early eighties when Nikolai was very young.

Exotic fruit and vegetables adorn sizzling platters of meat and seafood along with freshly made guacamole and side dishes that expand the usual suspects for Mexican and Latin fare in Idaho.

PHOTO COURTESY OF COA DE JIMA

The family’s newest restaurant creation, Coa De Jima in downtown Boise, offers a more intimate and decidedly Latinfocused menu and dining room. From the Coa De Jima designed as a door handle to the floor-to-ceiling “Árbol De La Vida” sculpture by local artist, Delia Dante, the environment is as interesting as the food.

PHOTO COURTESY OF COA DE JIMA

Grilled meat, homemade tortillas, and beautiful edible garnishes make each plate that hits the table an experience to share.

PHOTO COURTESY OF COA DE JIMA

“My father [Robert Castoro] and I were working on another restaurant when he passed away, “ said Nikolai Castoro. “After he passed in 2021, we stopped…to handle family matters. Family friend Dick Torre…brought it back to my attention in 2022 that the lot was still there and that Eagle, Idaho needed us. So, I met with the mayor, and [real estate developer] John Rennison…and decided to continue on the project…our goal was to open Coa Del Mar and to continue growing our businesses together.”

Coa De Jima owner, Nikolai Castoro in front of Delia Dante’s Árbol De La Vida.

PHOTO BY KAREN DAY

The new Coa Del Mar takes a nod from its waterside views and Castoro’s desire to spotlight exceptional seafood dishes from longtime Chef-Partner, Enrique Martinez. Chef Martinez helped create their successful California restaurant, Ti Amo, and came with the family to Idaho. In the new restaurant, Chef Martinez and Castoro are moving away from the more Central American vibe of Coa De Jima. Castoro noted the nuanced differences between his soon-to-be three restaurants: “Barbacoa is heavy on steak and some seafood with the Latin flair. Coa De Jima’s high-end, Latin fusion was conceptualized to be rich with meat and seafood. At Coa Del Mar, we’re just focusing on seafood. And it won’t be one hundred percent Mexican or Latin ”

Grilled salmon done with Chef Enrique Martinez’s Latin flair

PHOTO COURTESY OF COA DE JIMA

Calamari with their versions of come back sauces to please the table.

PHOTO COURTESY OF COA DE JIMA

A notable, common thread is the devotion to art and sculptural installations in the Castoro restaurants, primarily thanks to Nikolai’s mother, Martine, whose fine art graces both Coa De Jima and Barbacoa. “My mom went to the Art Institute in California,” explained Castoro. “Her oil paintings are all over the restaurants. She’s impressive, and not just in fine art but interior design. And so this is our vision together. The metal installations are all Delia Dante. KovichCo Interiors’s Jordan Yankovich is our designer on Coa De Jima and Coa Del Mar, along with my mom Martine. My dad found Delia, who did the Medusa at Barbacoa. Delia’s a petite woman making these giant 3,000-pound sculptures. We came up with this tree idea together and called it “Árbol De La Vida,” the tree of life. We ripped up the floor, so it looks like it’s coming through the building, built back in 1895. She’s amazing. This one was 2,700 hours and weighs 3,000 pounds. Medusa was about 1,500 hours and 2,000 pounds ”

PHOTO COURTESY OF COA DE JIMA

Cocktails at Coa De Jima are one of a kind hand-crafted cocktails made with fresh ingredients.

PHOTO COURTESY OF COA DE JIMA

In every bite and restaurant, the Castoros are bringing imaginative food and excellent taste to the Treasure Valley.

Save room for dessert, as Chef Martinez’s chocolate desserts make a perfect ending to a culinary feast.

PHOTO COURTESY OF COA DE JIMA