AMANO WINS A JAMES BEARD NOD

PHOTO BY KAREN DAY

By Heather Hamilton-Post

When Becca and Salvador Alamilla opened Amano in August of 2019, they knew exactly what they wanted to do, which was to create a craft kitchen that delivered traditional Mexican food in unique ways in a vibrant, modern space. They accepted a lot of feedback, trying to act on the suggestions, well-meaning commentary, and opinions on their menu. Slowly, the Alamillas felt themselves growing away from the goals they’d set out to achieve—perhaps a case of too many cooks in the kitchen—so they learned to tune out the noise.

“Over time, we’ve naturally evolved. Now, we really know who we are. There are things we thought would work that didn’t, and surprise hits too. We’re focused on quality and relevance to our culture,” said Sal, now twice-nominated for the James Beard Award.

For Becca and Sal, food is about nostalgia too. Sal’s favorite dish is the chile colorado because it reminds him of growing up. Becca loves the chile relleno, which she craved during her pregnancy with their third child. Both agree that you can’t go wrong with anything on the menu, but find their favorites in the foods that offer comfort and memories.

Born in Mexico and raised in Santa Ana, California, Sal Alamilla was schooled by his mother’s cooking from a young age.

PHOTO BY KAREN DAY

“When you create dishes, you want people to close their eyes and think, ‘YES. That’s it. That’s what I was looking for.’ When dishes are made with care and intention, you create something special,” Sal said.

And Amano offers a true family experience, Becca explained. When Sal shared the latest James Beard nomination with his prep team (two of his aunts and his mom), they were thrilled as their work is shared in those accolades. “They let him know that they cook with their heart. And I think that it shows up,” she said.

If there’s ever a time to cook from the heart, it’s Valentine’s Day, which presents an exciting opportunity for Sal and his team. The event’s prix fixe menu is an adventurous mix of dishes and drink pairings that have never been on the menu. Becca says guests will be guided through a unique feast, with each taste inspired by something the Alamillas have experienced together.

Sal Alamilla's seared duck and a braised sweet potato is a signature dish.

PHOTO BY KAREN DAY

“There’s always a reference to the past in some way. We take that and build on it with what we have here locally. Sometimes we’ll use ingredients that are a little bit different–but still traditional,” Sal said. Like many traditional kitchens in Mexico, Amano uses a wood fired oven, which offers an additional layer of flavor that can’t be replicated.

“A lot of it lives in my head. I have these visions of how it’s going to look, how it’s going to taste before I even make it. I have a recipe in my head, and then I make it and then I adjust if I need to—a little bit less salt, a little bit more chile—and it comes together based on my experience eating so many different foods,” Sal said.

So what’s the secret to good food? Becca says Sal told her early in their relationship. “You just need the right amount of a few ingredients.”

The Alamillas anticipate that the next five years will bring change, but they’re committed to keeping the experience centered around honoring Mexican culture.