X X
the
X
FUTURE OF BEAUTY X
X
X
DIGITAL BUSINESS
Cognizant
Interactive
“Brands are created at the speed of light. The beauty industry is becoming increasingly complex. Our instinct is to dislike complexity. But we either embrace it, or we’re not going to be around.”
Camillo Pane, CEO of Coty Source: Forbes
JURICA KOLETIC VIA UNSPLASH
4
KARINA CARVALHO VIA UNSPLASH
THE FUTURE OF BEAUTY
5
UNCOVERING A NEW BEAUTYSCAPE A new story of global beauty is being shaped. The authors of this future are an ever-expanding set of beauty enthusiasts and influencers from across the world. These individuals are experimenting with strange ingredients, hacking their genomes, and turning to witchcraft to enhance their self-care practices—and encouraging others to do the same. We’re seeing beauty not only being used to shape better versions of ourselves, but also the futures we hope to one day inhabit. This is evidenced by the many ways individuals are choosing to invest in themselves. Self-care has become an everyday ritual rather than a luxury, with consumers spending more time, money, and effort on their appearances and wellbeing than ever before. Prestige skincare spending topped $5.6B in 2017 in the US, a 9% increase over the previous year, as beauty communities flourished online and K-Beauty hit the mainstream. In this rapidly changing beauty landscape, it is clear that incremental innovation is no longer enough. Growth in this space is connected to the democratization of beauty through social media and digitally enabled innovation.
As indie brands generate cult-like followings and the voices of beauty enthusiasts continue to gain influence, consumers are discovering new beauty philosophies to align with—or reject. In the pages that follow, we use applied foresight to build tomorrow’s future, today. By combining the investigative skills of our futurists with the deep knowledge of human behavior cultivated by our anthropologists, we show not only what’s changing in the beauty landscape, but also what’s driving these changes and why. Here, we share three themes that explore the philosophies most likely to disrupt the beauty industry, and then bring this vision to life with stories that hint at what the future may hold. By understanding what’s going on in today’s vibrant and chaotic beauty landscape, leaders will benefit from an expanded perspective of the human experience of beauty. By thinking beyond traditional categories, lines of business, or functions, our hope is that this research will help you lead your organization boldly into the future.
6
Table of Contents
THE FUTURE OF BEAUTY
TABLE OF CONTENTS
7
01//
Change Drivers 02// THE BEAUTYSCAPE
Human-Futures Framework 03//
Building the Next Generation of Beauty AUTUMN GOODMAN VIA UNSPLASH
04// STORIES OF THE FUTURE
Beauty in 2030 05//
Who We Are
8
8
THE FUTURE OF BEAUTY
01//
Change Drivers KIMSON DOAN VIA UNSPLASH
The beautyscape is constantly being reshaped by a confluence of change drivers. From the democratizing power of the internet to the impact of changing gender identities, these diverse drivers evolve our thinking, behaviors, and buying habits around beauty.
CHANGE DRIVERS
9
9
ECONOMIC
Bottom-Up Beauty Lower barriers to entry and increased consumer access enabled by technology have made it easier than ever to launch a beauty company. Some of the most favored brands today are independent labels. These brands authentically cater to specific beauty segments and are agile enough to capitalize on the newest beauty trends.
$
403M
According to CB Insights, there were a total of 125 deals in 2016 with $403M raised in aggregate, compared to 71 deals and $200M raised in 2012.
Prolonged Juvenescence With more people expected to pursue advanced degrees, an increase in the precarity of work, and the devaluation of marriage, people are taking longer to settle down. This delayed adulthood and prolonged time for self-exploration are reshaping life’s milestones, sometimes in profound ways.
1
4
A US Census Bureau study found that 1 in 4 people aged 25 to 34 live with their parents, and over half believe that marrying and having children are not important parts of becoming an adult.
Population Growth Population growth, life extension, and improved healthcare are resulting in a faster-growing population than ever before. This growth will continue to spur investment in wellness and beauty as consumers become increasingly concerned with quality of life.
8.6B.
The UN projects that the current world population of 7.6 billion will reach 8.6 billion in 2030 and 9.8 billion in 2050.
TECHNOLOGICAL
Post-Image Norms In a post-truth world where fake news is commonplace and filtered images define how we see the world, knowing what’s “real” is becoming impossible, if not irrelevant. With technology continuing to enable more robust photo and video editing, the ways in which we define our image and ourselves is changing.
6
BILL.
Meitu, a popular Chinese photoediting app, generates over 6 billion photos worldwide each month.
Extreme Personalization With the growing power of AI and the increasing amount of data generated on consumers, the personalization of products, services, and messaging is moving from mass to extreme. Whether it’s through customized products or frictionless checkouts, AI and augmented reality (AR) will enable companies to tailor consumer experiences and engagement at the right time, on the right device, and with the right message.
6
X
ModiFace powers the AR experiences of 84 beauty brands. Its technology can increase time spent on mobile apps by six times and double conversions.
10
THE FUTURE OF BEAUTY
BRITTANY NEALE VIA UNSPLASH
10
ENVIRONMENTAL
Sustainable Consumption Increasing concerns with climate change and pollution are affecting the choices we make when it comes to beauty. With more scrutiny being put on reducing packaging and sustainable sourcing, beauty companies need to consider their environmental footprint more closely.
83
%
A 2015 study by Cone Communications found that 83% of Americans are willing to purchase a product that provides a social or environmental benefit.
Connection with Nature and Self Our sedentary and sterile lifestyles, combined with our awareness of the environmental destruction caused by the Anthropocene, are driving a movement toward eco-spirituality and mindfulness. Many people wish to rekindle a connection with nature, which biologists believe is an innate human need.
16
MIN. A DAY
The UK Office for National Statistics reports that children in Britain now spend an average of only sixteen minutes a day playing or exploring outdoors, including weekend excursions.
POLITICAL
Embracing Intersectionality: As the #metoo movement, Black Lives Matter, and gender identity debates move from fringe to center stage in our cultural and political discussions, the personal is converging with the political.
$
19M.
Over 19,000 women donated over the course of a month to raise $19M for the Time’s Up movement, with a wave of celebrities demonstrating their support at a number of award shows all over the world.
Turbulent Politics With increasing income inequality and political uncertainty, women and men are looking to skincare and beauty as a means of self-soothing.
SELFCARE
Google searches for “selfcare” reached a five-year high immediately after the November 2016 election.
CHANGE DRIVERS
11
11
SOCIAL
$
Shifting Status Symbols Traditionally, money and fame have been displayed as status symbols. However, as traditional luxuries like high-end cars and jewelry become more widely affordable, consumer spending is shifting to focus more on less-tangible luxuries. The rise of inconspicuous consumption is evidenced by increasing spending on education, organic food, and wellness.
Democratizing Opinions With the internet democratizing access to knowledge and opinions, bloggers, reviewers, and online personalities have significant influence on consumers’ purchasing decisions. Online influencers are accessible but aspirational, and the queenpins of the industry often have more clout than large companies.
3.7T.
70
The Global Wellness Institute estimates the worldwide wellness economy to be worth $3.7T USD as of 2015.
Women Empowerment The fight for gender equality worldwide is allowing women to become more empowered and financially independent. Especially in developing countries, the increasing spending power of affluent women is driving growth across many industries.
$
9 B.
According to the Associated Chambers of Commerce and Industry of India (ASSOCHAM), affluent working women in India are driving the growth of India’s $9B luxury market.
%
According to Think with Google, 70% of teenage YouTube subscribers trust influencer opinions over traditional celebrities.
12
THE FUTURE OF BEAUTY
+
02// THE BEAUTYSCAPE
Human-Futures Framework +
+ +
+
+ IAN DOOLEY VIA UNSPLASH
THE BEAUTYSCAPE: A FRAMEWORK
13
In this section, we introduce a framework—which we’ve named “The Beautyscape”—to highlight three distinct ways humans are beginning to use beauty to achieve specific outcomes in their lives. The Beautyscape was developed in collaboration with a team of anthropologists and futurists at Idea Couture using a research approach called human-futures scanning. We use this approach to keep the human—in this case, the beauty consumer—at the center as we build a view of the future. To complete a human-futures scan, our team first collected a set of weak signals of change. “Signals” are changes happening today that exist at the fringes of mainstream life, but that have the potential to develop into highly impactful trends. To build a human-centered view of the future, we then grounded the signals in a set of relevant anthropological insights that help us better understand the human experience of beauty. The Beautyscape is meant to help you think holistically about the “why” behind each of the changes we uncover. We hope this framework will inspire you to imagine new and compelling opportunities for your business. As you read the pages ahead, we encourage you to dive deep into the themes that most challenge your existing perspective and strategies. How can these themes inform your digital strategy? Reshape the retail experience? Spark ideas for new product-, service-, or experience-based innovation? Be bold in your exploration. The future of beauty is flourishing in unexpected places.
14
THE FUTURE OF BEAUTY
THE BEAUTYSCAPE: A FRAMEWORK The framework that follows highlights three distinct ways humans use beauty to achieve specific outcomes in their lives. These themes exist along a continuum that extends from how individuals exert control over their bodies to how they connect with broader ideas and movements. The first theme on the continuum, “Discipline the Body,” looks at the labor that goes into shaping one’s appearance to fit expected norms for the naturalized male and female body. The second theme encompasses practices that “Augment the Body,” meaning that they push the boundaries of traditional expectations of beauty, challenging identity norms and drawing on digital and virtual technology in order to do so. Finally, “Transcend the Self” looks at the ways in which consumption choices around beauty are tied to larger social and emotional contexts.
THEME 01
DISCIPLINE THE BODY Intensive care regimes discipline the body and help it meet accepted beauty standards, all while appearing effortless.
ENGLISH GARDEN
All three themes must be taken into account when thinking about the future direction of the beauty industry. JOSHUA NESS VIA UNSPLASH
In the spirit of the English garden tradition, beauty practices in this space are all about planning and upkeep that mimics the most natural aesthetic possible.
THE BEAUTYSCAPE: A FRAMEWORK
THEME 02
AUGMENT THE BODY As a means of self-expression, these augmentation-based approaches to bodily enhancement are creating opportunity to establish new definitions of beauty.
15
THEME 03
TRANSCEND THE SELF Rather than focusing on selfimprovement, this approach mobilizes beauty as a tool for enhancing solidarity and spiritual fulfillment.
FRENCH GARDEN
JAPANESE GARDEN
ANNIE SPRATT VIA UNSPLASH
TOA HEFTIBA VIA UNSPLASH
In the spirit of the French garden tradition, beauty practices in this space are all about altering the wild aesthetic to create a supernatural and intentionally designed version of beauty.
In the spirit of the Japanese zen garden tradition, beauty practices in this space exist to cultivate spiritual growth and lead the practitioner to a state where individual needs are secondary to a larger goal.
16
THE FUTURE OF BEAUTY
Intensive care regimes that help the body meet accepted beauty standards while making it all look effortless.
DISCIP THE B THEME 01
THEME 01—DISCIPLINE THE BODY
17
PLINE NE BODY
In the spirit of the English garden tradition.
Caring for and disciplining the body has been part of beauty practices for thousands of years. Though different ideals of beauty exist, the desire to appear natural and youthful is central to all of them. Today, consumers are spending more time behind the scenes to achieve a natural look; they strive to accentuate their best features while working within the confines of the body. To be disciplined is to put work into nourishing, enhancing, and shaping the body.
18
THEME 01
DISCIPLINE THE BODY Science-Fueled Experiences Wacky Concoctions Radical Transparency Internal Conditioning The New Masculine
THE FUTURE OF BEAUTY
Science-Fueled Experiences To discipline the body means not only working with its physical exterior, but also the unique biological makeup underlying that exterior. Technology-fueled brands are introducing ultra-customized experiences1 that match genetic needs while considering environmental factors2. With access to convenient devices that can diagnose the health of their skin3, consumers have more information than ever before, allowing them to adapt their habits to their skin’s changing needs and to create a new technologyfueled beauty ritual.
2 Romy’s Figure is a smart device that creates fresh skincare products by adding concentrated active ingredients, which are selected after the user’s daily skincare needs have been determined with the help of an in-depth questionnaire and various environmental factors have been considered.
THEME 01—DISCIPLINE THE BODY
19
1 Henkel’s Salon Labs technology brings a data-driven approach to haircare. By analyzing the hair’s molecular structure using near-infrared and visible light sensors, it gathers data on the hair’s strength, moisture content, and more, running this data through a proprietary algorithm to determine how to treat it and subsequently creating hundreds of different combinations of ingredients and fragrances to target specific needs.
3 Neutrogena® Skin360™ & SkinScanner connects to the user’s smartphone, analyzing beyond the skin’s surface to measure moisture level, pores, and wrinkles. A unique Skin360™ score allows users to track skin health over time.
20
THEME 01
DISCIPLINE THE BODY Science-Fueled Experiences Wacky Concoctions
Radical Transparency Internal Conditioning The New Masculine
4 AOBiome focuses on researching probiotics of the skin, specifically ammoniaoxidizing bacteria present in dirt that help rebalance the skin and allow other bacteria to live in harmony with each other.
THE FUTURE OF BEAUTY
THEME 01—DISCIPLINE THE BODY
21
5 SCOBY (symbiotic cultures of bacteria and yeasts) is the film of probiotic culture that forms on top of kombucha during the fermentation process. Because it is full of probiotics, people have started using it for face masks.
6 Cannabidiol (CBD) comes from the cannabis plant and has anti-inflammatory properties. Changing marijuana legislation is prompting many companies to introduce cannabis-based ingredients in skincare and cosmetics, such as MGC Derma, which offers toners, masks, and moisturizers—all formulated with CBD.
Wacky Concoctions With so much emphasis being placed on the complex ecosystem of their skin, consumers increasingly value formulas that work—even if they contain dirt4. More people are touting the immediate benefits of unconventional ingredients5, moving beyond the traditional vitamins, antioxidants, and acids toward wacky concoctions, including the likes of donkey milk, snail slime, placenta cream, and pig collagen. Such ingredients are being increasingly incorporated into everyday cosmetics6 in response to this demand.
22
THE FUTURE OF BEAUTY
THEME 01
DISCIPLINE THE BODY Science-Fueled Experiences Wacky Concoctions Radical Transparency Internal Conditioning The New Masculine
Radical Transparency Although the line between natural and synthetic is becoming blurred, the increasing concerns around environmental impact and toxic ingredients are driving consumers to rethink their beauty pantry. Increasingly, brands are promoting transparency and efficacy, leading consumers to redefine what’s safe to put on their bodies7. In the spirit of transparency, the fashion industry has started embracing blockchain technology8 to verify the authenticity of garments and track materials through the supply chain. This technology would no doubt benefit beauty companies looking to verify the authenticity and safety of their ingredients.
THEME 01—DISCIPLINE THE BODY
23
8 A Transparent Company partnered with Danish fashion designer Martine Jarlgaard and Provenance tools to track an alpaca supply chain end to end, from farm to finished product, using blockchain technology and generating a unique digital token for each garment to verify its production history.
7 Follain curates a portfolio of clean beauty products that have gone through an extensive approval process to ensure they are non-toxic and effective.
24
THEME 01
DISCIPLINE THE BODY Science-Fueled Experiences Wacky Concoctions Radical Transparency Internal Conditioning The New Masculine
THE FUTURE OF BEAUTY
Internal Conditioning To truly achieve the desired natural and youthful look they desire, consumers are looking beyond just topical products. With more knowledge surfacing regarding facial muscle structures and the benefits of increased blood circulation, there is a new wave of skin workouts9 and premium services that claim to help consumers make their faces as fit and toned as their bodies. As beauty and wellness continue to align, the beauty supplement industry10 is also gaining traction and is expected to grow at 10% annually through 2023.
THEME 01—DISCIPLINE THE BODY
25
10 HUM partners with nutritionists to provide a nutrient diagnosis and match products that aim to help with dry skin, acne, detox, and more. Another company, Kalumi, offers collagen bars made for those seeking a dose of healthy beauty on the go.
9 FaceGym offers workouts and face camps with its “trainers” that promise to tone and lift the face, among a variety of other targeted benefits. The company’s tagline is “Work it. Don’t fake it.”
26
THEME 01
DISCIPLINE THE BODY Science-Fueled Experiences Wacky Concoctions Radical Transparency Internal Conditioning The New Masculine
THE FUTURE OF BEAUTY
The New Masculine The beauty market has traditionally been dominated by, and marketed to, women. However, growing interest in male skincare indicates a change in male aesthetics and the normalization of disciplined self-care routines for men. There is an increasing number of blogs, vlogs, and entire companies catering to men who want to achieve a masculine ideal11 while simultaneously challenging what it means to be masculine12. Retailers are offering special men’s grooming13, alongside other tech-enabled experiences that redefine experiential luxury.
13 The Tom Ford Beauty store comprises six specialized rooms decked out with high-tech and luxury products. It includes mirrors that record tutorials, which can then be emailed to the customer in chapters; AR-enabled product trials; interactive scent counters; and a special men’s grooming room.
THEME 01—DISCIPLINE THE BODY
27
12 Hims aims to enable a conversation around men’s self-care, asserting that “men are allowed to want to take care of themselves.” By focusing on science and education, it hopes to help men talk about and address a variety of uncomfortable topics ranging from hair loss to erectile dysfunction.
STRATEGIC IMPLICATIONS ARE COMPANIES PREPARED TO FORGE MEANINGFUL CONNECTIONS WITH CONSUMERS THROUGH DEEP HUMAN UNDERSTANDING, IN LIGHT OF EVOLVING BEAUTY STANDARDS?
HOW CAN BRANDS INCORPORATE DIVERSE DEPICTIONS OF BEAUTY OUTSIDE OF MARKETING COMMUNICATIONS?
WITH GROWING ACCESS TO NEW PRODUCTS, INGREDIENTS, AND BRANDS, HOW CAN LEGACY BEAUTY COMPANIES ENSURE THAT THEY ARE BRINGING TO MARKET PRODUCTS THAT MEET CONSUMERS’ PURSUIT OF THE MOST CUTTING-EDGE OFFERINGS?
11 Proverb’s training program for men pairs its supplements and skincare products with a series of movements, such as eye lifts and face presses, to achieve peak skin condition.
28
THE FUTURE OF BEAUTY
As a means of self-expression, these approaches to bodily enhancement are creating opportunity to establish new definitions of beauty.
THEME 02
AUGM THE
We use beauty to highlight our natural features, but also to augment our bodies beyond them. Cosmetics have long offered consumers tools to express their individuality and stand out from the crowd. However, bolstered by a more democratized beauty landscape, augmentation technologies, and an increasingly fluid understanding of gender and sexuality, it’s never been easier or more acceptable for people to play with their identities than it is today.
THEME 02—AUGMENT THE BODY
29
N MENT E BODY
In the spirit of the French garden tradition.
Augmenting our appearance has also become an important tool for building status and competing in the attention economy. Digital platforms have given voice to a more diverse audience of beauty enthusiasts—but they have also upped the ante for participating online, especially in image-based social channels. As we enter a post-truth era where the line between what’s real and fake is becoming increasingly irrelevant, our relationship to the “truth” of our bodies will also continue to shift.
30
THE FUTURE OF BEAUTY
THEME 02
AUGMENT THE BODY Fake News for the Face Embracing Fluid Features Hacking the Genetic Lottery
1 China’s livestreaming economy is booming, with Huachuang Securities estimating that the country’s market opportunity will be worth $15.9B USD by 2020. Streaming apps like Inke offer instant filtering features that automatically smooth skin and remove blemishes, as well as sound equalizer features that allow livestreamers to modify the sound of their voices.
3 According to a 2017 survey conducted by the American Academy of Facial Plastic and Reconstructive Surgery, over half of facial plastic surgeons reported seeing patients concerned with improving how they appear in selfies and on social media.
Fake News for the Face In 2016, Oxford Dictionaries named “post-truth” its word of the year. This phrase is synonymous with the “fake news” that has permeated social channels like Facebook, but a similar “post-image” environment can be found on image-based social media platforms like Snapchat and Instagram. In these spaces, popular photo-editing apps have given consumers the tools to undergo digital plastic surgery1 with the click of a button, creating conditions in which enhanced versions of reality have become the norm rather than the exception. Meanwhile, photo-real computer-generated imagery (CGI)2 has become so advanced that many believe we have overcome the “Uncanny Valley”— that is, the digital landscape where the virtual appears almost, but not quite, real. As we spend more time online and push the boundaries of digital modification, we may continue to revolutionize the role of beauty in our lives, both on-screen and off3.
THEME 02—AUGMENT THE BODY
2 Miquela Sousa (@lilmiquela) is a 19-year-old, California-based, and completely computergenerated Instagram model and “influencer.” Since 2016, Miquela’s account has amassed nearly 570,000 followers, who debate everything from her realness to her creator’s ultimate motivation. She has also released several singles on Spotify.
31
32
THE FUTURE OF BEAUTY
THEME 02
AUGMENT THE BODY Fake News for the Face Embracing Fluid Features Hacking the Genetic Lottery
6 Makeup artists and social media influencers Dain Yoon and Ryan Burke use the body as a canvas upon which to create conceptual and wildly imaginative looks that defy categorization.
4 In a 2015 telephone survey conducted in the US on behalf of Fusion.net, half of 18–34 year olds expressed a belief that gender exists on a spectrum. Scottish fashion designer Charles Jeffrey’s label Loverboy has become the representative of genderfluid style. Recent trends have seen an increase in unisex and androgynous clothing, but Jeffrey’s collections play with gender constructs rather than suppressing them.
THEME 02—AUGMENT THE BODY
33
5 Condé Nast has launched an LGBTQ-focused digital publication called them. Described as a “nextgeneration community platform,” it is led by Phillip Picardi (the man responsible for Teen Vogue’s recent revamp) and is the first project to come out of Condé Nast’s new incubator program.
Embracing Fluid Features Makeup and fashion have always been powerful tools used by consumers to play with their identities, but as a growing community of people refuse to be defined by traditional gender norms, they are using these tools in innovative ways to craft fluid and dynamic identities4 that take self-expression to new levels. These changing expectations around identity and expression have also been supported by digital platforms5 that allow consumers to learn from others and feel enabled to experiment more radically with their appearance. These bottom-up beauty trends—from playful deconstructions of gender norms to the fantastic and hallucinatory6—emphasize standing out over fitting in. With appearance continuing to play a key role in building status and competing in the attention economy, extreme aesthetics allow consumers to play with traditional notions of beauty, but also to command attention and craft their personal brand.
34
THE FUTURE OF BEAUTY
THEME 02
AUGMENT THE BODY Fake News for the Face Embracing Fluid Features Hacking the Genetic Lottery
7 Researchers are attempting to achieve the age-old desire for a fountain of youth, with controversial startup Ambrosia charging $8,000 for blood transfusions from people under 25.
Hacking the Genetic Lottery Recent scientific advancements in the field of synthetic biology7 have put us on the cusp of a biological revolution, where we are able to surpass the limits of the “natural” body and modify ourselves at the cellular and genetic level8. The ethical implications of such power are still being carefully pondered, but the potential impacts are enormous. These scientific advancements, coupled with DIY/hacker culture, have resulted in an emerging “biohacker” community9. Biohackers are pushing the limits of technologies by using themselves as guinea pigs. Risks aside, they are side-stepping traditional R&D channels in an attempt to give everyday people more access to potentially life-changing (and saving) procedures.
THEME 02—AUGMENT THE BODY
35
STRATEGIC IMPLICATIONS IN WHAT WAYS CAN BRANDS CREATE NARRATIVES OR EXPERIENCES THAT TRANSCEND CORPOREAL APPLICATIONS?
9 Josiah Zayner, a former NASA biochemist and leading figure in the biohacking movement, made headlines when he live-streamed himself using the gene-editing tool CRISPR to modify himself at the genetic level. He is said to be the first person to attempt such an experiment.
CAN DIGITAL AND PHYSICAL EXPERIENCES BECOME INTERTWINED AND CONSUMED SIMULTANEOUSLY?
HOW CAN TANGIBLE PRODUCTS BE SOLD IN SUPPORT OF A DIGITAL EXPERIENCE, AS OPPOSED TO DIGITAL EXPERIENCES BEING LEVERAGED TO SELL TANGIBLE PRODUCTS?
HOW CAN BRANDS LEVERAGE THE LATEST TECHNOLOGICAL ADVANCEMENTS, SUCH AS VR AND AR, TO ENABLE THIS AUGMENTATION IN NEW SPACES?
8 Recent gene therapies such as those developed by BioViva have been shown to reverse aging at the cellular level. BioViva is developing gene therapies aimed at preventing cellular aging and increasing cellular and tissue regeneration. The company is investigating a number of therapies, including telomerase therapy, which aims to slow telomere erosion to mitigate the effects of aging.
36
THE FUTURE OF BEAUTY
Rather than focusing on self-improvement, beauty is being mobilized as a tool for enhancing solidarity and spiritual fulfillment.
TRANS THE S THEME 03
KRYSTAL NG VIA UNSPLASH
THEME 03—TRANSCEND THE SELF
37
Traditionally feminine pursuits like fashion and beauty have been often criticized for their supposed superficiality and complicity in reinforcing unattainable standards for women. However, recent shifts toward a more democratic, feminist, and personalized beauty landscape are calling this narrow view into question. A nuanced perspective is emerging: one in which caring about beauty and fashion does not negate— and sometimes even complements—a consumer’s interest in politics, art, science, current affairs, and women’s rights.
SCEND SELF These shifts have coincided with a whole new generation of beauty enthusiasts who are no longer satisfied with simple adornment or self-improvement. These consumers are aligning their beauty practices with deeply held values and spiritual pursuits. They see beauty as a tool to help them connect with higher purposes—or powers—that go far beyond the boundaries of the self.
In the spirit of the Japanese garden tradition.
38
THEME 03
TRANSCEND THE SELF The Ethics of Aesthetics Open-Source Beauty Sacred Symbols and Beauty Rituals Seeking the Sublime
The Ethics of Aesthetics As recently as a few years ago, the beauty industry was not known for taking strong stands on issues beyond animal cruelty, nor did it typically emphasize organic ingredients or body positivity. Today, the democratization of beauty via accessible distribution channels, social platforms, and personalization options allows consumers to choose brands that align not only to their physical needs, but also to their values. This has led to an increasing number of brands and beauty influencers who champion values of inclusivity1 and appeal to a wider set of religious2 and ethical beliefs3. Consumers are resisting the pressure to conform to traditional norms4 of what is beautiful and, in turn, are demanding more of the brands they follow.
4 Allure magazine has announced that it will no longer use the term “anti-aging,� which has lost its resonance with their millennial audience.
THE FUTURE OF BEAUTY
THEME 03—TRANSCEND THE SELF
39
1 Pop star Rihanna’s cosmetics line Fenty Beauty made instant waves within the beauty community with the debut of its 40-shade foundation line. Meanwhile, Tarte Cosmetics was inundated with negative press by beauty vloggers of color when the brand released a limited palette of shades for their highly anticipated Shape Tape concealer.
2 The global market for halal (Sharia-compliant) beauty is expected to reach $52B USD by 2025.
3 Canadian brand Cheekbone Beauty honors indigenous culture and beauty while giving back to First Nations initiatives.
40
THE FUTURE OF BEAUTY
THEME 03
TRANSCEND THE SELF The Ethics of Aesthetics Open-Source Beauty Sacred Symbols and Beauty Rituals Seeking the Sublime
Open-Source Beauty The notion of the “beauty secret” positions beauty as something to guard closely, for fear that sharing will allow others to become equally attractive. And yet, with the rise of online tutorials, beauty blogging5, and a vocal online community whose members share frank information about how they achieve their looks, the myth of beauty as a secret weapon is being increasingly debunked. Rather than reinforcing competition and social hierarchy, online beauty communities6 are creating safe spaces for members to crowdsource ideas, share tips, and talk frankly about what beauty means to them. Unlike many online spaces that become overrun with trolling and negative comments, these beauty communities have managed to cultivate environments that feel both intimate and empowering. At the same time, community members aren’t afraid to loudly voice their collective indignation7 when skeptics call their self-care practices into question.
6 Secret Facebook groups Dolly&Co and UKMakeupAddicts are hidden, invite-only communities that have strict rules against solicitation and trolling. Repeat offenders are quickly removed, which fosters an intimate and supportive environment where members feel safe to crowdsource suggestions and share unfiltered glimpses into their everyday lives.
THEME 03—TRANSCEND THE SELF
41
5 The influencer landscape has led to the rise of microbloggers, such as Gelcream, who provide brief, direct, and honest product reviews to their community of equally vocal users.
PHOTO CREDIT: THE OUTLINE
7 When online publication The Outline published an article denouncing skincare as a “con,” an immediate backlash ensued, with skincare enthusiasts taking to Twitter to sardonically debunk the author’s claims and collectively advocate for self-care rituals.
42
THE FUTURE OF BEAUTY
THEME 03
TRANSCEND THE SELF The Ethics of Aesthetics Open-Source Beauty Sacred Symbols and Beauty Rituals Seeking the Sublime
9 sundays nail studio offers weekly meditation classes, as well as a two-in-one meditation manicure that allows guests to listen to guided meditations as they receive vegan and non-toxic nail treatments.
10 Wabi-Sabi Botanicals’ We Sisterhood Manifesto promotes self-care, and more importantly, self-love, as a key foundation from which to cultivate a more compassionate world.
THEME 03—TRANSCEND THE SELF
43
8 HausWitch carries a line of Banishing Ritual Bath Salts that claim to cleanse the body (and soul) of gossip, rumors, “pesky ex-lovers,” or negative patterns of thought.
Sacred Symbols and Beauty Rituals North American society is becoming progressively more secular. But in today’s stressful and data-driven society, ancient and supernatural practices like astrology, metaphysics, and the occult are providing some consumers with a sense of control and self-care in turbulent times. The practice of witchcraft8, for instance, is being reclaimed as a feminist act of empowerment, and an increasing number of indie beauty brands are tapping into this trend. As more women are drawn to these neo-pagan spiritual practices, the “beauty ritual” is taking on new meaning. In the face of political turmoil, environmental destruction, and economic precarity, beauty and self-care9 have become more than just a selfindulgence. On the surface, consumers may be protecting their skin’s moisture barrier, but caring for one’s body is also increasingly being viewed as an act of self-preservation10 amidst the anxiety of an uncertain world.
44
THE FUTURE OF BEAUTY
THEME 03
TRANSCEND THE SELF The Ethics of Aesthetics Open-Source Beauty Sacred Symbols and Beauty Rituals Seeking the Sublime
Seeking the Sublime Along with the political uncertainty of our present era, insecurity brought about by global issues such as climate change, resource depletion, and pollution has stirred a renewed desire to connect with nature. Just as the Romanticism of the late 18th century idealized natural forces, we seem to be entering a period of renewed fascination and reverence for the natural world. This interest is taking many forms, including the relatively benign millennial obsession with collecting, tending to, and instagramming their indoor “urban jungles”11; spending time in natural settings to detox from urban life12; and an increasing interest by artists and designers in pushing the boundaries of self-adornment via biomimicry13—that is, imitating models, systems, and elements of the living world to achieve new forms of “natural” beauty.
CASEY HORNER VIA UNSPLASH
12 Known in Japan as Shinrin-yoku, forest bathing or “taking in the forest” has become an increasingly popular self-care pastime in North America. Research indicates that forest immersion lowers blood pressure, heart rate, and cortisol levels; some high-end spas are now offering certifications for forest-bathing instructors that cost upwards of $3,200 USD.
THEME 03—TRANSCEND THE SELF
45 13 Haute couturier Iris van Herpen is known for her collaborations with scientists and her innovative construction techniques, which are inspired by the complexity of natural systems and enabled by emerging technologies.
STRATEGIC IMPLICATIONS HOW CAN BRANDS SPEAK AUTHENTICALLY TO THEIR DISCERNING AUDIENCES RATHER THAN ATTEMPTING TO POSITION THEIR PRODUCTS FOR SPECIFIC AUDIENCES?
ARE BRANDS PREPARED TO FOCUS ON DELIVERING NEW TRANSCENDENT AND SPIRITUALLY INCLINED EXPERIENCES (RATHER THAN PRODUCT-FOCUSED EXPERIENCES) IN ORDER TO DRIVE CUSTOMER ENGAGEMENT?
CAN TRANSPARENT PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT, MARKETING, FULFILLMENT, ETC. CREATE OPEN AND AUTHENTIC TOUCHPOINTS FOR CONSUMERS TO EXPERIENCE PRODUCTS AND BRANDS DIFFERENTLY?
11 The Instagram account Urban Jungle Bloggers, created by friends with a mutual love for bohemian and plant-infused indoor spaces, has amassed a following of over 666,000.
46
46
THE FUTURE OF BEAUTY
03//
Building the Next Generation of Beauty
SØLVE SUNDSBØ VIA UNSPLASH
BUILDING THE NEXT GENERATION OF BEAUTY
47
47
DEPARTURE QUESTIONS
These change drivers and signals have reshaped—and continue to affect—the landscape of beauty. Those organizations that can successfully navigate this changing landscape have an opportunity to evolve and capture new value to generate growth.
//
ARE YOU SET UP TO EVOLVE, ADAPT, AND IMPLEMENT NEW EMERGING AND DISRUPTIVE TECHNOLOGIES?
//
HOW DO YOU REFRAME YOUR MESSAGING, BRAND NARRATIVE,
For beauty brands and retailers, this new landscape requires new thinking, strategies, processes, and perspectives for success.
AND RETAIL ENVIRONMENT, ADAPTING TO CREATE A PERSONALIZED EXPERIENCE FOR AN INCREASINGLY COMPLEX AND FLUID AUDIENCE? //
The beauty industry must rethink its approach to markets and consumers. Brands and retailers must create a new narrative to reframe their past, present, and future by reimagining innovation using a new approach.
ARE YOU PREPARED TO MEET NEW SOCIAL EXPECTATIONS AROUND BEAUTY, INCLUDING ACCOUNTABILITY FOR ITS ECOLOGICAL IMPACT AND THE PROVISION OF CELESTIAL SELF-FULFILLMENT?
//
HOW ARE YOU RETHINKING YOUR INNOVATION MODELS TO ENCOMPASS A FUTURE-FORWARD APPROACH?
Beauty brands and retailers must become:
HUMAN CENTRIC
TECHNOLOGY FUELED
DESIGN CENTRIC
FUTURE ORIENTED
48
48
THE FUTURE OF BEAUTY
STORIES OF THE FUTURE
49
49
04// STORIES OF THE FUTURE
Beauty in 2030 01 02
ADAPTIVE BEAUTY NORMATIVE BEAUTY
Based on the drivers described in the preceding section (and the signals that support them), we imagine future worlds based on different aspects of today’s changing Beautyscape. We speculate on how these drivers might play out as products, services, and cultural shifts in the following two fictional “stories of the future,” which represent a glimpse into possible future worlds that your business may find itself in. Imagine it’s 2030. Driven by the rise of always-on social networks, personal genomics, and fabrication technologies, the beauty industry has created products and services that allow individuals to freely play with their identities and the notion of beauty in unprecedented ways.
50
THE FUTURE OF BEAUTY
STORIES OF THE FUTURE
BEAUTY IN 2030
01 Adaptive Beauty 02 Normative Beauty
01
#TAGS FLUID IDENTITIES SCIENCE-FUELED PERSONALIZATION HYPER-CONNECTIVITY
Adaptive Beauty This story imagines a future where fluid identities become the norm as people attempt to gain popularity and stand out in a permissive world that encourages boundary crossing. The pervasiveness of social networks that underscores this open future creates a display society that fuels competitiveness; people increasingly use their identities to captivate and gain the attention of their social followers. Adaptability and experimentation are the vectors that drive this cosmetic future; however, there is an alarming backlash that occurs with this experimentation. As permission for nonconformity and fluidity increases, boundaries are blurred, resulting in homogenized identities.
STORIES OF THE FUTURE
Victoria slumped into the seat defeated, her purse falling to the floor as she leaned forward to take a better look at her reflection in the illuminated screen mounted on her bedroom wall. Let’s try something different tonight, Siri. It seems this look has nothing left to offer.
Victoria swiped her reflected image to the side and pulled up the stats to her central profile, then sat in disbelief as Siri blurted the cold facts. Unique profile visits have dropped by 93%. Mentions are down by 81%, and your image has only appeared—
Victoria flicked off the stats screen, interrupting the monotonous voice. Nobody notices me anymore, Siri. How does this happen? One day you’re on top of the world, the next day you have nothing relevant to offer. What are people looking for these days?
51
Victoria soaked a cotton ball in dismantling solution and diligently started the preparation process. After one wipe, her exposed pores tingled from the infrequent exposure–a rush that Victoria secretly revered every time she removed a look. She continued methodically until she was thoroughly cleansed and primed for reapplication.
OK, Siri. What do the correlations reveal? Victoria’s digital genome profile appeared on the screen with alteration recommendations highlighted in red.
Let’s start with your skin, Victoria. Out of the top profiles, the most commonly shared skin color is pigment 75634. We need to downplay your European ancestry and amplify your East Asian qualities. Shall I begin mixing color?
Yes, please begin. Well, you know I can help with that. The screen revved as Siri began recalling and organizing the most popular profiles of the day. A cacophony of images tiled the screen, the likeness of each person compressed to a one-inch by one-inch digital diorama.
The usual suspects, although you wouldn’t know it by looking at them.
She clicked on Ray.4361 and meticulously analyzed each pixel of the profile in front of her. We have a lot of work ahead of us, Siri. I guess we’d better get started.
Digital genome comparison underway. Tonight’s profile feature recommendations will be available in 192 seconds.
Victoria placed a small vial under the print dispenser and watched the ink jets fill with pigment. She collected the color and faced the screen. I’m ready for application.
A pop-up box reading Enable Camera appeared over Victoria’s reflection. She tapped Accept and began live-streaming application. Three comments immediately flooded in: Looking good, Victoria! Or will it be Victor tonight? Wow, great choice. Can’t wait to see how you finish it off. When will you get here? We are all dying to see you! Victoria’s pursed lips curved into a small smile as she watched her viewership climb. Maybe this was going to be a good night after all.
52
THE FUTURE OF BEAUTY
STORIES OF THE FUTURE
BEAUTY IN 2030
01 Adaptive Beauty 02 Normative Beauty
Overall Skin Health Good Inflammation None Elastin Normal Oil Levels s m a r t
Above Average b l e m i s h
m i r
Color
r
Normal
o r
#TAGS
DIGITAL IDENTITY
TECH-ENABLED CUSTOMIZATION
BIO-SENSING
s p o t t e d
STORIES OF THE FUTURE
53
02
Normative Beauty In this story, tech behemoths have merged and acquired everything from insurance companies, to banks, to airlines, giving rise to one convenient and efficient membership program known as GBook. GBook’s slogan is “The only account you need.” It streamlines each user’s ID, providing one avatar across all media, messaging, and service platforms. Because this avatar is used for everything from social media to official government documentation, there is an expectation for it to be designed to perfectly reflect the person’s actual appearance. Inconsistent or fictional avatars, aliases, screen names, and handles are rare and unnecessary, and they are met with distrust. Notions of “authenticity” rule. These expectations around authenticity, combined with a movement toward constant monitoring for the sake of public security, have created a world in which transformation of any kind is transgressive. Alternative forms of expression are heavily discouraged, as authenticity is seen as providing a safer society for everyone.
54
THE FUTURE OF BEAUTY
STORIES OF THE FUTURE
BEAUTY IN 2030
01 Adaptive Beauty 02 Normative Beauty
Victoria looked at her reflection in the Smart Mirror and sighed to herself. “I am a camera with its shutter open, quite passive, recording, not thinking.” The quotation from Goodbye to Berlin, a novel she’d read in college, came to her suddenly. With a warm cloth, Victoria rinsed away her topical sensing cream. On the other side of the sink, a data feed reporting her skin health projected over her image in the mirror. The mirror zoomed in, focusing on one side of Victoria’s forehead, where her topical sensing cream had detected high levels of oil moments before. The cosmetician function of the Smart Mirror recommended a self-organizing liquid crystal exfoliant from Normative Beauty to prevent a blemish. Victoria charged it to her GBook account; it would be delivered in about 10 minutes. She glanced at her avatar as the purchase went through. Her virtual image looked exactly as she did. It represented her across channels: the collapse of my entire selfhood in one perfectly linked portrait, she thought as she looked at her safe smile and closely cropped haircut, which had been done just moments before the photo was taken. Maybe it was time for change.
The exfoliant arrived. She applied it and watched the liquid crystals loop around the surface of her face. Victoria recalled the tone and scene of Goodbye to Berlin. The details danced: Weimar Germany, cabaret burlesque, raucous crowds, ludicrous music, provocative humor, erotic performances, racy costumes, and glamour—all of it bound up in complex identity politics. Excited, she decided to play with the AniMakeUp app on her Smart Mirror. Something different, she thought. Victoria pushed her image to its alien limits. Pencil thin eyebrows, masculine cheekbones, bright and beautiful neon tones, a bald scalp, bright pink lips. She loved it. Her newly designed avatar appeared in front of her accompanied by a list of the necessary products and instructions she’d need to achieve the look. What a rush the transgression of transformation could be. She went for it, clicking the Buy and Apply button. A GBook pop-up appeared on her Smart Mirror. Are you sure you want to alter your avatar? Victoria snapped back to reality. She imagined the ridicule. Was non-conformity worth the social consequences? “I can’t just change overnight, can I?” she wondered aloud. “People will think I’m fake, uncomfortable in my own skin, untrustworthy.” She thought for a moment longer, then made her decision: “Cancel.”
STORIES OF THE FUTURE
I can’t just change overnight, can I?
55
56
THE FUTURE OF BEAUTY
05//
Who We Are Cognizant Interactive is a digital boutique with global scale.
By leveraging our international network of digital experts across 52 offices, we deliver world-class experiences to our clients through strategic foresight, experience design, and large-scale digital support—among many other services. With our industry-focused services, we specialize in applied innovation that is platform-enabled, AI-driven, and inspired by human insight. We strive to help our clients envision and operate tomorrow’s products and services today.
WHO WE ARE
57
Idea Couture is an award-winning global strategic innovation and experience design firm. We use design-thinking methodologies to help leading companies envision and create breakthrough products, services, and programs that fulfill client requirements, build lasting emotional connections between customers and brands, and drive new revenue. We operate where design meets business, insight meets foresight, and empathy meets economics. Our transformative solutions are informed by our multidisciplinary thinking and rigorous research. Our teams employ an adaptive, holistic, and human-centered approach to the development of experiences.
58
THE FUTURE OF BEAUTY
A Dual-Innovation Mandate We balance the need to plan for the future of beauty with the goal of updating and rethinking current businesses to keep their core offerings relevant to today’s consumers.
A Multidisciplinary Approach We apply a multidisciplinary approach to solving complex problems. Our design approach is human centric and multidisciplinary. We help our partners develop strategically focused challenger cultures and an actionable, enterprise-wide view of the future. 01
Using foresight to discover new opportunities in unexpected futures.
02
Using human insights to discover deep meanings and unimagined purposes within the human experience.
03
Using innovation strategy to create new products, services, and experiences.
Our process is agile and built on extensive expertise and knowledge. Our outputs are business models and plans, not just design. Defining the Future of Beauty // We use human insights and applied foresight to develop transformative, future-proof design and strategy. Identifying New Growth Opportunities // Our practice manifests consumer-centric and purpose-driven strategic opportunity areas designed to inform new innovation, consumer experience, external storytelling, and communications. Developing a Challenger Mindset Meant to Disrupt // We focus on future-forward strategic visioning and innovationprocess integration to transform business models and brands.
WHO WE ARE
59
A Curated Set of Redefined Innovation Tools Enterprise View of the Future / Horizon Scanning / Scenario Development / Growth-Platform Development Consumer-Centric Opportunity Space / Cultural Drivers and Insights / Personas and Archetypes / Opportunity Maps / Whitespace Maps / Journey Maps / Value and Brand Platforms / Co-Creation and Live Testing / Brand Development and Narrative Future-Proof Strategy and Idea Development / Sensemaking / Business Casing / Workshops / Idea Generation and Prioritization / Concept Development
Consumer-Centric Development / UX + EX / Customer Experience Design / Service Design and Development / Storytelling Product Design / Design / Prototyping / Optimization Challenger Culture and Organizational Development / Ecosystem Mapping / Business Model Innovation / Employee Experience Design / Cultural Management / Internal Storytelling / Cultural Ethnography / Codified Innovation Capabilities Digital Technology Solutions / Digital Commerce / Digital Solutions for Marketing, Sales, and Supply Chain / Marketing Analytics / Trade-Promotion Management / Sales-Process Improvement / (Retail) Execution Solutions / Supply-Chain Reinvention
60
X
X
X X
CONTACT US
DIGITAL BUSINESS
Cognizant
Interactive
SAM BURRISS VIA UNSPLASH
info@ideacouture.com +1. 800. 928. 9135 ideacouture.com