7 minute read
East Algarve
27 East Algarve
Those who take the Algarve’s path less travelled and head east on arrival at Faro Airport find themselves richly rewarded – stretching from Faro to Vila Real de Santo António, life marches (or, rather, pleasantly ambles) to a different beat. In contrast to the hustle and bustle to be found elsewhere on the Algarve – traditional towns and villages offer a more tranquil take on Portuguese living. With an enchanting blend of culture, history and, of course, beautiful beaches, this sleepy corner of the country, nestled up against the Spanish border, is emerging as a rising star of the property market. Much of the area’s charm lies in its unspoilt identity, with many towns retaining much of their old-world character thanks to more rigorous building restrictions than elsewhere on the Algarve.
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With over 300 days of sunshine a year, it would be a sin to stay indoors all day in the Algarve and, for those who like their outdoor activities to extend beyond sitting in a shady spot with a cool drink, the east Algarve has much to offer (although there are plenty of local bars ready to cater for the former option too).
Sagres Aljezur Monchique
EAST ALGARVE
Lagos Silves Loulé
Portimão
Carvoeiro Albufeira Vilamoura Quinta do Lago
Vale do Lobo Faro Olhão Tavira
Yet despite its relaxed nature, there’s still plenty in the way of amenities along the east Algarve. Banks, medical centres and supermarkets are easy to come by, with the latter complemented by regular farmers’ markets where you can fill your shopping basket with local fruit and veg, along with other items including eggs, flowers, honey and Portugal’s iconic Piri Piri. But perhaps the greatest pleasures are to be found in the simplest of situations. The chiming of church bells as you sit on the town square. A friendly nod from a local fisherman. A breath of sea breeze on another sunny, blue-sky day. And, above all, taking the time to notice.
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East Algarve
FARO
The Algarve’s capital is where you will arrive if travelling by plane. It is normally overlooked by most tourists, probably due to the fact that it does not have as many accessible beaches.
Despite being a city and the Algarve’s capital, in true Algarvian style, it retains an easy-going air with a walkable, pedestrianised and plenty of places to eat, making it an enjoyable day out. That said, there’s plenty to satisfy culture vultures within the city’s historic walled centre, from museums and historic buildings to the regenerated neighbourhood of Mouraria and Vila Adentro, the Moorish-influenced old town. Faro Cathedral, the macabre Capela do Ossos (chapel of bones) historic buildings and the boat trips along the Ria Formosa or to Praia de Faro mean there are plenty of sights to take in.
ESTOI
Located north-east of Faro, 10km inland in the foothills of the Serra do Caldeirão, the village of Estoi has a more relaxed atmosphere than the bustling coastal towns. The cobbled streets and white-washed houses with terracotta rooves provide a welcome respite from the tourist hotspots and the cafés are a great opportunity to watch the world go by.
The Palácio de Estoi, a renovated 19th-century palace, which is now a pousada, is an attractive monument to past grandeur. A fifteen-minute walk away is the well preserved Roman complex of Milreu, with some of the country’s best-preserved ruins dating back to 1AD. Parts of the once plentiful mosaics remain with the ruins of a villa, temple and bathhouse, hinting at the area’s long and varied past.
TAVIRA
Sometimes referred to as the Venice of the Algarve, Tavira is undoubtedly one of the Algarve’s prettiest towns. All white-washed buildings, distinctive rooftops and decorative azulejo facades it straddles the rivers Gilão and Segua.
Its fine renaissance architecture includes churches and tree-lined squares, which give it a romantic atmosphere. The seven-arched Roman bridge along with medieval houses incorporating gothic windows complete the picturesque vista. A vibrant fruit and vegetable market on the river is a popular focal point to buy local produce or relax with a coffee.
RIA FORMOSA NATIONAL PARK
A unique series of saltwater lagoons that extends from Faro to Tavira. Hailed as one of the seven natural wonders of Portugal, the area teems with migratory birds and other coastal wildlife, including seahorses, dolphins, chameleons and flamingos, making it a real treat for nature-lovers whether explored by boat or foot.
MONCARAPACHO
With cobbled streets and orange-tree-edged squares, Moncarapacho is an idyll set amidst Olhão’s countryside. Surrounded by groves of orange, lemon and olive trees, it is like a living museum to traditions like handmade crafts and farming are still kept alive by the locals.
VILA REAL DE SANTO ANTÓNIO
Standing on the banks of the Guardiana, Vila Real was built in two years to house the plague-ridden fisherman from Aveiro and to lay a claim on the fishing waters from neighbouring Spain.
It was built along the same design as Lisbon following the 1755 earthquake, and so its decorative buildings and grand central plaza are reminiscent of the capital.
You can catch a ferry across to Ayamonte in Spain or enjoy walking around this traditional Portuguese fishing town.
CABANAS
Facing the Ria do Formosa National Park, its beautiful clean beaches attract tourists in summer. It was built up around the tuna industry and still lives mainly from fishing, meaning you can enjoy the local gastronomy with delicacies like tuna fish and razor clams.
SANTA LUZIA
A delightful fishing village famed for its octopus is a local speciality. The village’s fishing fleet pride themselves on sustainable fishing and deliver to the many restaurants that have mastered the art of cooking them to perfection.
Lying within the Parque Natural Ria Formosa park, tidal lagoons and meandering waterways to the south are home to wading birds and marine life.
SÃO BRÁS DE ALPORTEL
The inland location of São Brás de Alportel acts as a doorway to exploring the east Algarve countryside, with a wealth of walking trails catering to all abilities, with everything from casual strolls to heart rateraising hikes.
In the village, you will be greeted by streets of white houses and a church whose bell tower chimes to the hills around the town.
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Things to do East Algarve
PALÁCIO DE ESTOI
The imposing and impossibly pretty Palácio de Estoi, is a restored palace and one of the Algarve’s finest examples of 19th-century rococo architecture. Tourists and locals alike now flock to discover its stunning gardens, take five o’clock tea in the grand salon or dine on the picturesque terrace.
BEACHES
This being the Algarve, the east also offers an abundance of beaches to enjoy, boasting quiet coves and even secluded ilhas (islands) that are accessible only by boat where you can experience a real Robinson Crusoe moment: the feeling that you’re the first to set foot on the gorgeous golden sand.
VIA ALGARVIA
The Algarve is starting to acquire a well-deserved reputation as a top walking destination in Europe. The Via Algarvia is a 305km long walking route, running west from the Spanish border all the way to the western outpost of Sagres. The eastern stretches of the route are not crowded and you can walk kilometres without seeing another hiker. Walk from Alcoutim and enjoy the view down towards the coast in the distance.
MUSEU DO TRAJE DO ALGARVE (COSTUME MUSEUM OF THE ALGARVE)
The Costume Museum in São Brás de Alportel is not just a museum but a focal point for the local community. The museum and grounds you see today was the home of the Dias, Andrade and Sancho families for over 130 years and was typical of that occupied by wealthy families from the end of the 19th century onwards. Its landscaped gardens, servants’ house, stables, workshops, a vegetable garden, and a working well are a reminder of the days of old. 1986, he generously donated it to the local community. Since then, a new building has been added with a more contemporary design along with an array of temporary and permanent exhibitions such as the costume exhibition itself, which uses costumes to show how life has changed in the region in the last 200 years.