Institut' Dermed Healthy Skin Lifestyle September 2022

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INSTITUT’ DERMED CLINICAL SKINCARE

Healthy Skin Lifestyle

TM

SEPTEMBER - DECEMBER

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INSTITUT’ DERMED PRODUCT K N O W L E D G E and

PROMOTIONS Table of Contents

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SEPTEMBER

Achieve Even-Toned Skin

OCTOBER The Natural Radiance of Pumpkin

NOVEMBER Prepare for Lift-Off

DECEMBER Holiday Gift Collections

MED-TALK

with Lyn Ross L.M.E.

#LEARNWITHLYN Live in 2 022

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Institut’ DERMed®

ACHIEVE

SEPTEMBER

EVEN TONED SKIN

Now is the perfect time of year to exfoliate those UV damaged dead skin cells. It’s hard for your natural radiance to come through without something to encourage skin cell turnover Peels are popular for that very reason. They work well to help slough off dead skin cells and unclog pores.The Mandelic+ Peel from Institut' DERMed is formulated with the active ingredients needed to help even the appearance of skin tone and texture while supporting your natural collagen production. This gentle AHA exfoliator, works to loosen the connections between impacted surface skin cells (desmosomes) allowing the cells to shed naturally. Active ingredients in the formula help to brighten the look of skin that appears damaged by sun, age, hyperpigmentation, or acne. The best peels leave your complexion looking and feeling soft, smooth, and radiant. The goal is to create a better surface for your topical products to absorb more effectively without irritating your skin.

This month, treat yourself to a Mandelic+ Peel that’s suitable for all skin types. And apply a topical mandelic acid and licorice root extract serum at home to maximize your professional results and maintain an even skin tone. 4

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Institut’ DERMed

MANDELIC+ PEEL • Kojic Acid • Resveratrol • Mandelic Acid • Maqui Berry Extract

Good for ALL SKIN TYPES

PLUS Maintain Professional Results at Home

with a

BIO MANDELIC SERUM • Brighten Skin • Refine skin texture • Decongest clogged pores • Diminish the look of dark spots INSTITUT’ DERMED PROMOTIONS

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Institut’ DERMed

HARNESS

OCTOBER

THE POWER OF PUMPKIN

October is a great month for a Pumpkin Peel Treatment! The Institut' DERMed Pumpkin Peel is formulated with Pumpkin Enzymes which naturally contain a high level of Vitamin A. Pumpkin Enzymes are anti-oxidant rich, packed with non-abrasive Beta-caroteen and combined with the Lactic Acid in this professional formula the benefits are brightening, decongesting, and refining of the skins surface. Enzymes digest dead skin cell buildup, encouraging collagen production for an overall glowing and taut look to the skin! 6

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PROFESSIONAL

PUMPKIN PEEL

GET THE GLOW

+ weekly homecare treatments with the Institut' DERMed Clarifying Peel containing pumpkin enzymes helps to maintain professional peel results.

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Institut’ DERMed NOVEMBER

PREPARE FOR LIFT OFF November is the ideal month to benefit from a chemical peel for firm, tighter glowing skin just in time for the holidays. The Institut' DERMed is a 7% Symwhite®377 7% Salicylic Acid and 7% Lactic Acid peel formulation.

from

BENEFITS •

Improves skin tone, texture, and overall appearance

• Minimizes fine line lip wrinkles • Brightens dull, blotchy, uneven complexion, brown spots and freckles • Stimulates collagen and elastin production for firmer skin • Softens fines lines and smooths deep wrinkles • Fades discoloration 8

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NOVEMBER

PRE PEEL SKIN CONDITIONING

Promote a

BRIGHTER, SMOOTHER, EVEN-TONED, CLEAR COMPLEXION.

Properly preparing your skin for a chemical peel is important for an optimal outcome. When the skin has been conditioned it helps to create an even penetration of the peel and a predictable outcome. Applying these ingredients in a Home Care regimen six weeks before a Chemical Peel is ideal for conditioning the skin and pretreating dark spots, uneven skin tone and the signs of premature aging. VITAL C SERUM L-ascorbic acid is the most effective, aqueous, topical vitamin C to help prevent the signs of premature aging. L-ascorbic acid provides protection against environmental stressors, relieves redness, promotes healing, and reduces the appearance of uneven skin color. VITAL A SERUM formulated with Micro-encapsulated L-Retinol and Glycolic Acid to improve the skin’s texture, tone and over all health and create a visible improvement in the conditions related to skin aging.

For a Healthy Skin Lifestyle!

CHROMABRIGHT SERUM Chromanyl palmitate is a patented, active molecule for skin brightening, and also an alternative to hydroquinone.

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Institut’ DERMed DECEMBER

HOLIDAY SKINCARE TIPS Here are 5 of our Best Holiday Skin Care Tips to Keep Your Inner Glow alive for the Season! 1. When the level of humidity in the air drops, your skin experiences more transepidermal water loss. Drinking lots of water daily will help to rid the body of toxins and moisturize your skin’s cells from the inside out. 2. If you aren't using a daytime serum under your moisturizer - now is the time to add that into your regimen. A serum such as the Institut’ DERMed Anti-oxidant Peptide Lifting Serum contains hyaluronic acid and peptides that supply serious topical cell hydration throughout the day. Indulge yourself or add it to your stocking stuffer wishlist! 3. Skin is usually where the first signs of aging appear and nowhere does that appear faster than around your eye area. If you are not getting enough sleep, a common occurrence for most of us during the holiday season, then your eyes may look puffy and have dark circles.Try to decompress at least an hour before bedtime every night for a better rest. If sleep does tend to be elusive, at least sleep in an eye serum that's like a nightime mask for the delicate skin around your eye area.The IInstitut’ DERMed Enhancing Eye Serum - formulated with Spin Trap (PNB) and Corn Silk Extract will help to minimize the appearance of fine lines around the eyes, so you wake up with smooth skin and a visibly more brilliant eye area. 4. For daytime use you’ll love the Institut’ DERMed Eye Cream Complex. Packed with breakthrough anti-aging eye ingredients such as Eyeliss, Haloxyl and Matrixyl, this luxury cosmetic product makes for a great all day solution to miminize the appearance of dark circles and keep your eyes looking smooth and bright! 5. Thoroughly cleansing your skin every night with an AHA (Alpha Hydroxy Acid) cleanser such as the IInstitut’ DERMed Renewing Cleanser formulated with Lactic Acid is one of the best ways to help protect your complexion from environmental stressors, age acceleration and the effects of too many late nights. Don't skip this essentail step in your daily routine! 10

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modern medical ORIGINALLY PUBLISHED IN DERMASCOPE MAGAZINE

C

onsultative aesthetics is the process of learning your client’s needs then meeting those

needs with solutions combining products and services. With many patients seeking aesthetic treatments in conjunction with medical prescriptions and procedures, the clinical esthetic practitioner requires an understanding of cosmeceutical ingredients and prescriptive medications for successful

MED TALK

[ ]

treatment outcomes. A licensed esthetician can treat skin in ways that do not require medication or surgery and very often it is the esthetician who is first presented with the most common skin conditions such as Melasma, Rosacea,Acne and Hyperpigmentation. A skin care specialist can assess the skin but

By licensed Master Aesthetician,

Lyn Ross

cannot diagnose a medical condition or recommend prescription medication. However, an esthetician can help develop a healthy skincare routine for any known skin condition, so it is vital

Common medical Terminology and Medications for thorough consultations.

to be familiar with prescription medications, indications, and contraindications for esthetic treatments.

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modern medical Clinical Consultation Checklist • • • •

Record all the patient’s information including medical health history and list of medications and supplements they may be taking. Record all visual and verbal concerns. Describe to the patient any of your findings or suggestions after the skin assessment. Create an in-clinic and homecare treatment plan based on the patient’s subjective concerns, and your objective assessment.

Physician Treated Skin Conditions Diagnosis and treatment of skin cancers - An abnormal growth of skin cells which most often develops on skin exposed to the sun. • Infectious diseases - Ringworm, Impetigo, cellulitis, and staphylococcal infections. • Inflammatory Acne - Propionibacterium infiltration. • Inflammation - Can affect the Epidermis, Dermis and Subcutaneous tissue at the same time. • Psoriasis - An autoimmune skin disorder causing a rapid buildup of skin cells creating a dry, thick, raised patch on the surface of the skin. • Vitiligo – An auto immune disorder that destroys melanocyte cells causing irregularly shaped white patches on the skin. • Seborrheic Keratosis - A benign (noncancerous) growth on the surface of the skin. • Tinea – A group of diseases caused by a fungus. Rosacea - A chronic inflammatory skin condition that causes redness on the cheeks, nose, chin, and forehead, swollen red bumps and visible broken capillaries. • Dermatitis - Any red, itchy rash that is caused by an allergic reaction to direct contact with a substance. • Eczema - Atopic dermatitis that causes itchy, dry, rough, flaky, inflamed, and irritated skin. It usually manifests in early childhood and can be hereditary.

Esthetician Treated Skin Conditions • • • • • • • • •

Acneic Skin Dry/Dehydrated Skin Photo-Aged Skin Oily/Sebaceous Skin Rosacea Melasma Pigmented Lesions Hormonally Challenged Skin Sensitive Skin

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modern medical Acne Skin Condition The most common skin condition treated by dermatologists and estheticians is Acne. Treatment can include systemic therapies involving oral antibiotics, hormone therapy and topical treatments performed by an esthetician to help manage this condition over the long term. Often medication is prescribed to bring the condition under control, followed by topical esthetic treatments to maintain clear skin. Prescription Medications for the Treatment of Acne • Tetracycline, Minocycline, Doxycycline (all belong to the family of antibiotics). • Erythromycin - A macrolide antibiotic, used to treat a wide variety of bacterial infections. • Anti-Androgens –block the effects of androgens, such as testosterone. • Isotretinoin – (Absorica, Claravis, Amnesteem, and Zenatane) a form of vitamin A that decreases the size of the sebaceous glands in the skin. • Benzoyl Peroxide - An antiseptic medicine that reduces bacteria on the surface of your skin. • Intralesional Injections –a corticosteroid such as triamcinolone acetonide which is injected directly into a lesion on the skin. • Hydroquinone – A depigmentation agent that inhibits melanin synthesis. • Tretinoin - Retinoic acid used for the treatment of acne and photo-aging marketed as Retin-A Micro, Refissa, Retin-A,Tretin-X, Atralin, Renova, and Avita.

Non-Prescription Ingredients These cosmeceutical topical treatments may be used alone or in combination with other acne medications. • Totarol Extract – A naturally occurring plant extract with potent anti-bacterial and antioxidant properties and effective in the treatment of acne and rosacea. • Sulfur - Commonly used in acne products to help reduce oil gland activity. • Salicylic Acid – A beta hydroxyl acid and a keratolytic. • Glycolic Acid – An alpha hydroxy acid. • Lactic Acid – An alpha hydroxy acid. • Phytic Acid – An antioxidant alpha hydroxy acid. • Pumpkin Enzymes - alpha-hydroxy acid that contains vitamin A. • Tea Tree Oil - Contains antibacterial properties. • SymWhite377 – A Phenylethyl Resorcinol that reduces dark spots • Probiotic - Good bacteria for your skin’s microbiome that target free radicals and bad bacteria. • Camphor – An antiseptic and anti-inflammatory tree extract. • Grapefruit Oil – An antimicrobial and anti-inflammatory. 14

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modern medical Contra Indications for Acne Treatments Do not perform Microdermabrasion, Intense Pulsed Light Treatments or Chemical Peels on a client who is prescribed: Differin, Accutane, Metro Gel,Tazarotene, Retin- A. Sensitive, Rosacea Skin Condition Diagnosis and treatment of skin cancers - An abnormal growth of skin cells which most often develops on skin exposed to the sun. Rosacea is a common skin disease with four subtypes: • • • •

Erythematotelangiectatic rosacea: Redness, flushing, visible blood vessels. Papulopustular rosacea: Redness, swelling, and acne-like breakouts. Phymatous rosacea: Thick skin with a bumpy texture. Ocular rosacea: Red and irritated eyes and swollen eyelids.

Treatment for Rosacea varies depending on the nature and severity of the symptoms. Oral antibiotics may be prescribed to bring the condition under initial control but Rosacea is preferably managed long term with general measures such as avoiding known triggers as well as treatments targeted at diminishing symptoms. Prescription Medications for the Treatment of Rosacea • Antibiotics - antiangiogenic and anti-inflammatory Doxycycline, Erythromycin, Metronidazole, Minocycline, Noritate, Clarithromycin and Azithromycin. • Sodium Sulfacetamide - Bacteria suppressants Clenia and Plexion. • Antihypertensive - Clonidine, Moxonidine to suppress flushing. • Oral Steroids: Prednisone, corticosteroids to reduce inflammation and redness. • Beta Blockers: Propranolol, Nadolol, Carvedilol to reduce erythema by vasoconstricting capillaries. Anti-Malarial – Hydroxychloroquine, Artesunate to reduce inflammation. • Retinoids - Atralin, Avita, Retin-A, Renova,Tazarotene (Tazorac), Adapalene (Differin) to reduce the appearance of acne rosacea and red bumps. • Isotretinoin – Absorica, Accutane, Amnesteem, Claravis, Myorisan, Sotret, Zenatane for suppressing papulopustular rosacea. Non-Prescription Ingredients Cosmeceutical treatment may be used alone or in combination with other Rosacea medications such as: metronidazole (Metro Gel), tetracycline, clindamycin and doxycycline.

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modern medical Acne Skin Condition The most common skin condition treated by dermatologists and estheticians is Acne. Treatment can include systemic therapies involving oral antibiotics, hormone therapy and topical treatments performed by an esthetician to help manage this condition over the long term. Often medication is prescribed to bring the condition under control, followed by topical esthetic treatments to maintain clear skin. Prescription Medications for the Treatment of Acne • • • • • • • • • • • • • • •

Lactic Acid – A mild alpha hydroxy acid that gently exfoliates the skin. Licorice Root extract - glycyrrhiza glabra helps to reduce redness. Hydrocortisone – anti-inflammatory. Azelaic Acid – targets bacteria. Nutrazen - Soothes irritation. Grapeseed extract – high in proanthocyanidins (antioxidants) and antiinflammatory. Green Tea Leaf extract - antioxidant and anti-inflammatory. Shea Butter – anti inflammatory and soothing. Rosemary Leaf extract – Anti-oxidant and anti-inflammatory. Willow Herb extract – A soothing anti-oxidant plant extract. Spin Trap (phenyl N-t-butylnitrone) - A neuroprotective, anti-inflammatory. Rose Hip Seed Oil - rich in polyphenols and anthocyanin, which may help reduce inflammation. Phytic Acid – a gentle acid for decongesting the skin. Seaweed extract - soothe redness and repair skin. Papain - gentle, enzymatic exfoliation.

Melasma and Hyperpigmentation Melasma is a particularly difficult type of hyperpigmentation to conquer because melasma is not just confined to the upper layers of the epidermis but is also found in the dermal layers of the skin. Surface pigment is more easily treated by moderate treatments, but deeper pigment will respond better to a long-term treatment plan to be effective. Prescription Medications for the Treatment of Melasma and Hyperpigmentation • Tretinoin Cream – Atralin, Avita, Refissa, Renova, Retin-A,Tretin-X, lightens the skin • Hydroquinone Cream – Lustra, Melquin, Melquin HP 4%, Melquin-3 Topical Solution, Lustra-AF, Lustra-Ultra, Alphaquin, Claripel, Clarite, Eldopaque, Eldoquin, Epiquin Micro, Esoterica, Melanex, Melpaque, Nuquin HP Cream, Nuquin HP Gel, and Solaquin. Tretinoin is a topical skin lightener that inhibits the enzymatic conversion of tyrosine to reduce the production of pigment. 16

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modern medical • Corticosteroid - suppresses biosynthetic and secretory functions of melanocyte cells inhibiting melanin production. • Triple bleaching cream – Tri-Luma A combination of hydroquinone, tretinoin, and mometasone furoate to depigment the skin, increase skin cell turnover and reduce redness. Non-Prescription Ingredients Cosmeceutical topical treatments may be used alone or in combination with other dyschromia medications such as hydroquinone and triple bleaching cream. Prescription Medications for the Treatment of Rosacea • Licorice Root Extract - inhibits the production of tyrosinase and contains liquiritin, an active compound that brightens skin. • SymWhite® 377 - a potent tyrosinase inhibitor. • Glycolic Acid - fades dark spots, removes dead skin cells and evens out the skin tone. • Lactic Acid – brightens skin and removes dead skin cells. • Retinol - Increases skin cell turnover reducing the effects of photoaging. • Aristotelia Chilensis Fruit Extract – an antioxidant that defends against UV light exposure • Hexanoyl Dipeptide 3 - a synthetic tripeptide that enhances the skin’s ability to shed, helping to increase skin cell turnover and reduce the effects of photo-aging. • Salicylic Acid - naturally occurs in willow bark, sweet birch bark, and wintergreen leaves and loosens old, dead skin to reveal a brighter newer skin. • Resveratrol - polyphenolic compound found in various plants, including grapes and berries that helps to inhibit tyrosinase activity protecting against hyperpigmentation. • Titanium Dioxide - reflects UV rays away from the body protecting against UVB rays • Mandelic Acid – An Alpha Hydroxy Acid derived from almonds that inhibits melanin overproduction within the skin and has an anti-inflammatory effect. • Kojic Acid – is an active ingredient derived from mushrooms and a well known tyrosinase inhibitor. • Vitamin C - blocks excess pigment production and protects against environmental stressors. Contra Indications for Melasma Treatments Peels work well in combination with other agents for the treatment of Melasma and Hyperpigmentation. However, Chemical peels are to be avoided in dermal melasma for skin types IV to VI, because of the risk of developing post-inflammatory dyschromia.

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modern medical Aging Skin Aging creates inevitable changes in the skin from both intrinsic and extrinsic factors. Typical attributes are visible wrinkles, noticeable discolorations, keratoses and a roughtextured dull complexion. • Hydroquinone - Help to fade dark spots from photo-aging. • Tretinoin – A retinoid that helps to speed the skin’s cellular turnover process, revealing new skin cells and diminishing the appearance of wrinkles and skin discoloration. Non-Prescription Ingredients Cosmeceutical treatment may be used alone or in combination with other anti-aging medications such as: retinoids, hydroquinone and tretinoin. • Retinol – An OTC ingredient, retinol helps regulate the growth and differentiation of the skin’s cells slowing the aging process. • Ascorbic Acid – an effective topical vitamin C to help prevent the signs of premature aging. • Glycolic Acid - one of the most popular AHA (Alpha Hydroxy Acid) peels for diminishing wrinkles and lightening pigmentation. • Lactic Acid –an AHA that naturally exfoliates without interrupting the skin's natural moisturizing factor. • Enzymes - gently digests dead cells that accumulate on the skin’s surface, diminishing the appearance of pigmentation, fine lines, and wrinkles. • Tea Complex - potent antioxidants for skin protection. • Apple Stem Cells - Stimulates collagen and restores the skin’s regenerative capacity. • Peptide - Stimulate collagen production and reduce skin stress. • Matrixyl 3000™ - Stimulate collagen synthesis to firm and tighten. • Epidermal Growth Factor (EGF) - restore the regenerative capacity of epidermal stem cells. • Hyaluronic Acid – hydrates and rejuvenates skin. • Mandelic Acid – diminishes the appearance of dark spots and uneven skin tone. Understanding medical terminology, medications and cosmeceutical ingredients is necessary to accurately identify primary and secondary skin conditions and will provide the information needed to create a treatment plan that avoids complications. Master aesthetician, Lyn Ross founded Institut’ DERMed Spa in 1989 and launched her cosmeceutical product and treatment concept Institut’ DERMed Clinical Skin care in 1994. Now widely dispensed in prestigious spas, medical spas, and physician’s offices Lyn continues to train professionals, nurses, and physicians the specialized skin care techniques she developed at her Institut’ DERMed college of Advanced Aesthetics.

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LIVE WITH LYN 2022

Join Lyn Ross L.M.E. for LIVE Facebook Sessions every Wednesday at 1p.m. EST in the Institut' DERMed Healthy Skin Lifestyle Facebook Group. Every week Lyn helps Skin Care Specialists Estheticians, Cosmetologists, Nurse Skin Care Practitioners and Students of Aesthetics learn more about clinical skincare and practical business tips for optimal client results and business success. Topics focus on confidence with Enzyme, Acid and Chemical Peels and include knowledge on product ingredients, protocols and how to create a highly profitable skin care practice. The Institut’ DERMed Healthy Skin Lifestyle Professionals Group is known for helping each other trouble shoot client case studies. As a member of our group you are invited to post questions about active product ingredients, peel layering, and how to manage complications. See you there: https://www.facebook.com/groups/healthyskinprofessionals

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