Institut Dermed Healthy Skin Lifestyle Magazine September 2023

HEALTHYSKIN LIFE S TYLE HSL

NEW

Institut’DERMed®

VITALC CREAM

TheVitalCCreammoisturizerisformulatedwith 3-O-Ethyl-L-AscorbicAcid.

Studiesdemonstratethat3-O-Ethyl-L-AscorbicAcid containsthehighestconcentrationofAscorbic acidamongstVitaminCderivatives(86.3%)and hasthebestskinpenetration.

Resultsshowthatthis VitaminCderivative:

•Diminishestheappearanceofdarkspotsand unevenskintone.

•Actsasapowerfulantioxidanttoprotectskin cellsfromfreeradicaldamagecausedbyUV light,pollutionandstress.

•HasexceptionalCollagen-boostingproperties.

VitalCCreamIngredients:3-O-Ethyl-L-AscorbicAcidBalanceCreamBase,Water, AloeVera,ApricotKernelOil,IsopropylMyristate,SheaButter,CetearylAlcohol,1,3 Propanediol,Ceteareth-20,Squalane,GlycerylStearate,PEG-100Stearate,Sodium Acrylate/SodiumAcryloyldimethylTaurate,Copolymer,Isohexadecane,Polysorbate 80,Phenoxyethanol,Ethylhexylglycerin,CaprylylGlycol,Tocopherol,SodiumGluconate,XanthanGum,SorbicAcid.

Chemist’sClinicalIngredientResearch

3-O-EthylL-AscorbicAcid

A Vitamin C Derivative

3-O-Ethyl-L-AscorbicAcid, orEthyl Ascorbic Acidis amolecule producedby modifying AscorbicAcid, commonlyknown asVitamin C.This modificationis doneto increasethe molecule’sstabilityandenhanceitstransport throughskin.Intheskin,themodifyinggroupis removedandVitaminCisrestoredinitsnatural form.Thus,3-O-Ethyl-L-AscorbicAcidretainsthe benefitsofVitaminCinaddressingthemany manifestationsofskinagingsuchaswrinkles, dryness,hyperpigmentation,andunevenskin tone.Extrinsic and intrinsic factors,especially solarultraviolet light(UVB), contributeto skin aging;its mainfeatures arebrown spots, alterationsin melaninpigmentation, anda decreasein collagenand hyaluronicacid linkedto oxidativestress. Furthermore,it is evenmorepotentinreducingskindarkening afterUVexposure.Finally,theslowerrelease alsoensures thatless irritatingand notoxic effectsare observedwhen usingthis Vitamin Cderivative. 3-Oethyl ascorbicacid is metabolizedby theskin aspure VitaminC, thusretaining allthe provenbenefits of VitaminC.

3-O-Ethyl-L-AscorbicAcidcontainsthehighest concentrationofascorbicacidamongstVitamin Cderivatives(86.3%)andhasthebestskin penetration.Itissolublein bothwaterandoil, 3-O-Ethylascorbicacidiseasily incorporated intoawiderangeof cosmeticformulations.Its efficacyisenhancedbya rapidabsorption intotheskin,whichis whyityieldsthebest result. Atthe recommendedpH (between 4-6) itisstableagainst oxidationandresistant todiscoloration.

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C8H12O6 :

Usagelevelsof3-Oethyl ascorbicacidinskin caremaybeashigh as20%.However,dueto its stability,lesseramountsareneeded compared withpure VitaminC. dependingon desired benefits.Optimum stabilityis observedin formulationsat pHrange 4.0– 5.5

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ProtectsagainstUVinduced immunosuppression:maintainstheactivityof immunecellsintheepidermis

Protectscellsfromfreeradicaldamagecaused byUVlight,pollutionandstress

Exceptionalcollagen-boostingproperties

Reducestheappearanceoffinelines,wrinkles andhyperpigmentation

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Anti-inflammatory Nontoxic,nonirritating

Sources: https://www.mdpi.com/2075-1729/11/5/406 https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S0891584921004299 Liao,W.C.,Huang,Y.T.,Lu,L.P.,&Huang,W.Y.(2018).AntioxidantAbility andStabilityStudiesof3-O-EthylAscorbicAcid,aCosmeticTyrosinase Inhibitor.Journalofcosmeticscience,69(4),233–243.

EthylAscorbicAcid(SpecWhite®VCE)bySpec-ChemIndustryInc-Personal Care&Cosmetics.Retrieved3April2020 https://enclaire.in/article/3-o-ethyl-ascorbic-acid-the-skincare-superhero-fora-radiant-glow

Formoreinformation, call 770.454.7788oremail akim@idermed.com

Resultsshow3-0-Ethyl-LAscorbic:

3-O-Ethyl-L-AscorbicAcid hasbeen tested extensivelyusing in-vitromethods and clinicalstudies todetermine effectson skin agingcharacteristics.

NATIONALSKINCARE AWARENESSMONTH

Agreatmonthtofocusonseasonalskincare!

Theseasonschange,andsodoourskin'sneeds.Changingyourskincareroutineseasonally canbeverybeneficialforyourskin.

Inthesummer,theweatherishotandhumid,whichcancauseourskintoproducemoreoil. Inthefall,theweatherstartstocooldown,andtheairbecomesdrier. Sosmallchanges canmakeabigdifference,forexampleit'simportanttocontinueusingamoisturizer,but youmaywanttoswitchtoaheaviermoisturizerifyourskinstartstofeeldry.Youmayalso wanttostart(orre-start)usingaserumwithretinoltohelppreventwrinklesandagespots.

Ifyouhavedryskin,you'llneedtousedifferentproducts thansomeonewithoilyskin.Payattentiontoyourskintype. Werecommendaprofessionalseasonalskinanalysisso youcanlearnmoreaboutyourskintypeandcondition, andaddressanyskinconcernswiththedifferentskincare productingredientsavailablethatwillworkbestforyour individualneeds.

Inadditiontoadjustingyourhomeskincareroutinetotheseasons,thereare professionaltreatmentsthatareexcellentforthefallseasontokeepyourskin healthyallyearround:

Exfoliation: Exfoliating helps remove deadskin cellsand revealfresh, newskin. Thisis especiallyimportant inthe fall,when theair isdry andyour skincan becomedull and flaky.Youcan exfoliateyour skinwith agentle scrub,a professionalpeel, ora dermaplaningor microdermabrasiontreatment.

Retinol: RetinolisavitaminAderivativethatcanhelpimprovetheappearanceof wrinkles, finelines, andage spots. It canalso helpto boostcollagen productionand improveskin texture.If youhave dryskin, youmay wantto startwith alow-dose retinolproduct and graduallyincrease thestrength asyour skingets usedto it.

Enzyme,Acid&ChemicalPeels: Aprofessionalskinpeelcanhelpimprovetheappearance of acne scars, sun damage, and uneven skin tone. There are different types of peels available, sotalktoyourestheticiantofindtherightoneforyou.

Inaddition tothese professionaltreatments, thereare afew otherthings youcan doto keepyour skinlooking itsbest inthe fall:

Moisturization: As theair getsdrier inthe fall,it's importantto keepyour skinhydrated. Lookfor amoisturizer thatcontains hyaluronicacid, glycerin,or sheabutter.

Drinkplenty ofwater. Waterkeeps yourskin hydratedfrom theinside out.

Eata healthydiet. Eatinga healthydiet providesyour skinwith thenutrients itneeds tostay healthy.

Getenough sleep. Sleephelps yourskin repairitself.

Avoidsmoking andexcessive alcoholconsumption. Smokingand excessivealcohol consumptioncan damageyour skin.

Byfollowing thesetips, youcan keepyour skin looking itsbest allyear round.

SKINCARE AWARENESSMONTH

BeautyChecklistMonth!

Yourskinrequiresprioritizationtobehealthy,glowing,andwell-caredfor.Whentheleaves startfallingandyoucanfeelthechillintheair,it'sessentialtogetintoagoodskinroutinefor yourfaceANDyourbody!

Regularexfoliationheightensthemetabolicrateofcellrenewalandpreventsthedevelopmentofmanyage-relatedskinirregularities.Whennewtissueisconstructedthroughexfoliationandre-epithelialization,skindamageisreplacedbyfresh,healthyskincells.

The Institut'DERMed PumpkinEnzymePeel isawelcome additiontoyourseasonalskincareroutine.Facialenzymes comefromthefamilyofenzymescalledproteasesor proteolyticenzymesthatproduceabiologicalcatalystto dissolvedeadskincellprotein.Enzymessoftenthekeratin onthesurface,sothatwhentheyareremoved,youare wipingitoff.Andthebenefitofthatisthattheydon’t drasticallydisrupttheepidermalbarrieroftheskin,causing visiblepeeling.

Anadvancedskinresurfacingtreatment,the PumpkinPeel targetsacne,congestedskin, prematureaging,wrinkles,darkspots,andunevenskintone.Pumpkinispackedwith enzymesandalpha-hydroxyacids (AHAs).ItalsocontainsvitaminsA,B,C,andE,aswellas zincandessentialfattyacids.

Additionally,the applicationpost peelof a Niacinamide (vitaminB3) andPalmitoyl tripeptide-38Serum workswith thenatural substancesin yourskin tohelp visibly minimize enlargedpores,tighten laxpores,improveuneven skintone,softenfine linesand wrinkles,diminishdullness,and strengthenaweakenedsurface, aswellasboosting the synthesisofcollagenI, II,&IV.

Thistreatmentcanalsobeusedonthebodyforabeautifulglow,silkytexture,andjuicy, plumpskinappearance!Bodytreatmentsareessentiallyskin-conditioningtreatments.Keep yourglowgoingaslongasyoucanwithhomecaretreatmentssuchasaGlycolicAcid BodyWashyoucanuseintheshower.Glycolicacidderivedfromsugarcanecanrefinethe skin’ssurface,andafteryourshower,sealinsoftnesswithahydratingglycolicacidbody lotion.It’samust-haveformaintainingtheskin’smoisturebarrierafterexfoliating.

It’s PUMPKIN TIME!

Bio-DermNutriGel plus

(Niacinamide,Copper PeptideGHK &PalmitoylTripeptide-38InfusionSerum)

TheImportance ofSkin Health

Yourskin isyour body'slargest organ,and it'simportant totake careof it.Healthy skin helpsprotect youfrom theelements, keepsyou cool,and helpsregulate yourbody temperature.It alsoplays arole inyour overallhealth andwell-being.

Yourskin isan elasticprotective coveringthat isthinnest onthe lipsand eyelidsand thickeston thepalms ofthe handsand solesof thefeet.

Thereare threemajor divisionsof theskin:

•Epidermis –the outmostor “horny”layer

•Dermis –The innercorneum or“true” skin

•Subcutaneous –The Deeplayer oradipose (fatty)tissue

Theprimaryfunctionoftheepidermisistoproducetheprotective,semi-permeablestratum corneumthatpermitsearthlylife.Thepermeabilitybarrieroftheskinislocalizedtotheouter layeroftheepidermis,thestratumcorneum.Thestratumcorneumhasanimportantfunction; itslowstheevaporationofwaterfromtheskinandhelpsprotectagainstmicrobes.TheStratumCorneumlayercontainstheskin’snaturalmoisturizingfactor(NMF).Adecreaseinthe NMFresultsintransepidermalwaterloss(TEWL),causingdrynessandinflammation.

Theproteinkeratinandthelipidbilayeraroundeachcellalsoassistinhydrationbywaterproofingtheskinorpreventingwaterevaporation.Asmallamountoftransepidermalwater loss(TEWL)isconstantlytakingplacewithinthehornylayerandiscriticaltoskinhealth;however,TEWLisincreasedwhentheepidermisiscompromisedandmayresultinskinsensitivity.

The InstitutDERMedRenewingCleanser isformulatedwith HyaluronicAcidandthe SoothingCleanser withGluconolactone, bothofwhichhelptoincreasehydration!

-Washyourfacetwiceadaywithacleansercontaining humectantingredients.

Epidermis

Dermis

Subcutaneous tissue

NATIONALHEALTHYSKIN

Humectantsareingredientsthatattractwater.Inskincare,theycandrawwaterfrom thedeeperlayersoftheskintotheepidermis.Theycanalsoattractwaterfromthe surrounding environment to the skin. This month add a serum with moisture retentive ingredientstoyourregimenifyouhaven'talready.

VitalAandVitalCSerum

FormulatedwithFructooligosaccharides(D-Beta), amoistureretentiveingredientthathelpstomaintain ahealthymicrobiomeforyourskin.

AntiOxidantPeptideSerum

FormulatedwithemollientCaprylic/CapricTriglycerideto resistmoistureloss&SodiumPCAtoincreasewater contentbyattractingmoisturetotheskin.

BioMandelicSerumandChromabrightSerum

FormulatedwithSodiumHyalurante(L)-anaturallyoccuring polysaccharideandthepurestformofhyaluronicacid(HA) tohelpincreasemoistureretention.

InstantRadianceSerum

FormulatedwithGluconolactoneamulti-taskinghumectant polyhydroxyacid(PHA)&Glycosaminoglycansa mucopolysaccharidewithahighwaterretainingability.

SponsoredbytheAmericanAcademyofDermatology.

SoothingMoisturizerandEnhancingProtectiveCream

GoodforallskintypesandcontainsFructooligosaccharides (D-Beta),tohydrateandhelpmaintainahealthymicrobiome foryourskin.

ClarifyingMoisturizer

FormulatedwithGlycosaminoglycans(GAGs)consistingof complexproteinsincludinghyaluronicacidtoreplenishand restoretheskin.

RenewingMoisturizer

FormulatedwithSaccharomyces/Xylinum/BlackTeaFerment alsoknownasKombucha.Blackteafermenthelpstoattract watertotheupperlayeroftheskinandhasananti-oxidant effectneutralizesfreeradicals.

EnhancingEyeCreamComplex

FormulatedwithCaprylic/CapricTriglyceride-Thishumectant ingredientisaperfectemollientforaroundtheeyeareato replenishtheskinandresistmoistureloss.

EnhancingLipSerum

FormulatedwithPalmitoylOligopeptideapeptideingredient thoughttointeractwithhyaluronicacidandelastinproductionsystemshelpingtoincreasewatercontentandimprove theappearanceoffinelines.

Byunderstandingtheimportanceofskinhealthandfollowingsomesimpletips,youcanhelpkeepyourskinlookingitsbest foryearstocome.Ifyouhaveanyconcernsaboutyourskinhealth,besuretoseeaskincareprofessional.Anesthetician canhelpyoudevelopapersonalizedskincareroutinethatmeetsyourindividualskinneeds.

withHyaluronic Acid

withBlackTea Ferment

withCaprylicCapricTriglyceride &SodiumPCA

withPalrnitoyl Oligopeptides

withHyaluronicAcid andJojobaEsters

withCaprylicCapricTriglyceride

Boostyourskin’snaturalmoisturizingfactor(NMF).

Multi-PeptideIngredientApproach

DECEMBER

ForDiminishingtheAppearanceofFinelinesandWrinkles

Peptidesareattheheartofefficient “age-targeting”cosmeticproducts.

Peptideshaveadirecteffecton influencingcollagenproduction, whichcorrelatestoahealthy andyouthfullookingeyecontour appearancewithsmootherskin andreducedwrinkles.

WhatisaPeptide?

Peptidesplayakeyroleinskinhealth,everythingfromwoundhealingtocollagenregeneration andskinprotectionagainstenvironmentalstressors.Peptidesarederivedfromvariouschainsof aminoacidsthatserveasthebuildingblocksforprotein.Cosmeticchemistsbelievethatpeptides communicatewithcellstructuresandcanserveinavarietyofwaystosupportskinhealth.

Cosmeceuticalpeptideformulationsfallintothreemajorcategories:

•Carrierpeptides

•Signalpeptides

•Neurotransmitterpeptides

Thefirstpeptideswerelabeledcarrierpeptidesastheywereintroducedintothepharmaceutical worldtoassistinenhancingwoundhealing.Thefirstcommercializedcarrierpeptidewasa copperpeptide,anaturallyoccurringcoppercomplexfirstisolatedfromhumanplasma.Copper peptidescannowbeclonedsyntheticallyinthelaboratoryandaddedtocosmeticformulations. Peptidesmayalsobeharvestedfromplant-basedsources.Signalpeptidesaredesignedto createabiologicresponse.Thefirstcommercializedsignalpeptidewaspalmitoylpentapeptide, knowncommerciallyasMatrixyl(PalmitoylPentapeptide-4(formerlyPalmitoylPentapeptide-3).

ThesepeptidesarealsoLipopeptides,whichoccurwhenAminoAcidsaremixedwithFatty Acids.Aminoacidsareaknownsuperfoodforcollagenstimulationandproductionintheskin. Thus,Matrixylappearstoassistwithincreasingdermalcollagenandskinrepair.

DECEMBER

Multi-PeptideIngredientApproach

Haloxyl™(PalmitoylTripeptide-1(Pal-GHK)andPalmitoylTetrapeptide-7(Pal-GQPR)isamatrix-derivedpeptideoftenusedincosmeticfillerslikeRestylanetosmoothoutwrinkles.Eyeliss™(Dipeptide-2)Haloxyl™),combinedwithMatrixyl3000®(PalmitoylTetrapeptide-7)inaneyecreamcomplexactsynergistically,helpingtoreducepuffinessandbagsundertheeyesandthickeningthe tissuesoastocreateopacity,preventingthevasculaturefrombeingnoticeablethroughthethin skinoftheundereyelid,whichhelpstodisguisedarkcirclesaswellassmoothfinelinesand wrinkles.

Neurotransmitterpeptidesweredevelopedtoattempttoactinawaythatissimilartobotulinum toxin.Acetylhexapeptide-8,withthesequenceAcetyl-Glu-Glu-Met-Gln-Arg-Arg-NH2,isalsocalled botulinum-likeneurotoxinTypeA.ThecombinationofPro-Coll-OnePeptides,derivedfromsoya containinghighlypurifiedglycopeptides,alongwithAcetylHexapeptide-8,intheAnti-oxidant PeptideLiftingSerumhelpstorelaxtheappearanceofwrinklesabovethemuscletosmooth squintandfrownlines.

Thecosmeticefficacyofthesemulti-peptideingredientsinaneyetreatmentandskinserum formulationsasadaily-useskincareproductforagedskinhasbeenwelldocumented.Data recordedafter14daysofamulti-peptideeyeserumapplicationindicatedameasurablereductioninthelines,depth,andvolumeofwrinklescomparedtothebaselineinwomen,20–45yearsof age,withvisiblesignsofnaturalandphotoagingontheirface.Additionally,asignificantincrease inskinfirmnesswasobserved.Whenmusclesfailtoreceivecontractionsignalsfromthevesicular fusion(knownasSNARE)complexduringneurotransmission;thisrelaxesthemusclesand smoothsoutwrinkles.(Source:Clinicalevidenceoftheefficacyandsafetyofanewmulti-peptide anti-agingtopicaleyeserum:https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/full/10.1111/jocd.15849)

Allpeptidesexistinlimitedamountsinnature,soresearchandlabre-productionisanon-going excitingfieldasthemarketforpeptidescontinuestogrowsteadily.Inthelab,newpeptidesare beingdiscoveredallthetime,alongwithmoreenhanceddeliverysystems.

AGETARGETINGPEELS & MULTI-PEPTIDES

LACTIC+ PEEL

WithHexanoylDipeptide-3NorleucineAcetate

An encapsulatedpeptide thathelps theacidbeabsorbedintotheskin moreevenlywithlessdehydration andirritationpostpeel.

TARGET

MULTIPLESIGNS OF AGING

TARGET MULTIPLESIGNS OF AGING

Anti-Oxidant

Peptide

LiftingSerum

Enhancing EyeCream Complex

GiveTheGift ofBeautifulSkin

MED TALK

MasterAesthetician, Lyn Ross

•HowDNAisDamaged

•Photo-AgingintheSkin

•Anti-OxidantDNARepair

Wrinklesandpigmentarychanges areassociatedwithpremature photo-agingandareconsidered adirectresultofDNAphotodamageand UV-generatedreactiveoxygenspecies (ROS).Someareasofskinarecontinuously exposedtoavarietyofenvironmental stressorsthatcaninflictdirectandindirect damagetoskincellDNA.TheeffectofUV irradiationoccurswhenDNAabsorbs photonsfromUV-B.Thisresultsinstructural rearrangementofnucleotidesthatthen leadstodefectsintheDNAstrand.

InDNA,UVprimarilyinducestheformationof cyclo-butanepyrimidinedimers(CPD).UV damagetoDNAisgeneratedimmediately (withinseconds)aftertheabsorptionofthe irradiatedphotons.DNArepairisperformedby enzymaticcomplexesintheepidermisthat removedamagefromDNAthatisexposedto UVradiation.

Therelevance tohuman healthwas reportedby AntonyYoung Emeritus, Professorof ExperimentalPhotobiology andDermatology atKing’s Collegein London.His teamof researchersexposed humanvolunteers of Fitzpatrick skintypes I/II orVItoerythemalequivalentdosesofUVfrom asolarsimulator.AtdifferenttimesafterUV exposure,biopsies weretakenand CPDs wereassessedbyimmunecell staining. Usingcomputerimagingafterimmune cell staining,theaccumulationofCPDs inthree epidermal layers(basal,suprabasal-1,and suprabasal-2)were analyzed,and a quantitativeanalysis oftotal epidermal CPDswas created.

Withlicensed

ItwasobservedthatthelevelofCPDincreasedinallskintypesaftertheendoftheexposuretoUV andpeakedatabout1-2hourspost-irradiation,confirmingthatCPDsareformedinhumanskinafter theendoftheexposuretosolarsimulatedradiation.

CPDincreasedforafewhoursaftertheendoftheUVexposure.ThesenewCPD’swerecalled"dark CPD"(dCPD)becausetheyareformedintheabsenceofradiationandwerenotgeneratedin UV-exposedcellssuchasfibroblastsoramelanoticmelanocytes.ThisindicatesthatDNArepair needstotakeplacegenerallywithin24-36hourspost-UVexposure.

PhotoInducedSkinAgingRepair

TheskintestingresultssummarycastsanewlightonDNAdamageinhumanskinafterUVexposure. Ultravioletradiationcancontributetothedepletionofstemcells(ESCsandmesenchymalstem cells),eventuallyleadingtophoto-inducedskinaging.Sunscreensandafter-sunrepairproducts appearnecessarytoofferprotection,notonlytopreventimmediateUVDNAdamage,butalsoto avoiddarkCPDsfromaccumulatingafterwardsintheepidermis.Protectionofskincellsagainst UV-inducedDNAdamageincludesenzymaticantioxidants.

VITAMINCProtection

DNAdamagethatispartoftheformationoflinesandwrinklesontheskinisduetooxidativestress causedbyunstableelectronsthatattackhealthycellsandchangetheirstructure.Oxidativestress mainlyoccurswhentheskinisexposedtopollutantsandenvironmentalaggressors,suchasthe sun’sUVrays.WhenanantioxidantsuchasVitaminCisaddedtotheskin,itcombatsoxidativestress reducingtheconcentrationoffreeradicalsanddiminishingcollagendegradation.

BasedonSPFstudies,asunscreenapplicationabove30SPFdoesnotofferanyincreasedsun protection;however,byusinganantioxidantsuchas VitaminCalongwithasunscreen,theskin's immunecellsareprovidedwithamoreprotectivebarrieragainstagingandpost-inflammatory hyperpigmentation.

It’simportanttouseaVitaminCformulationwithaminimumconcentrationof8%andamaximum concentrationof20%forsignificantbiologicalactivityinclinicalapplications.Somepeoplemaybe sensitivetovitaminCduetotheacidicpHlevel,soadjustingthefrequencyofuseofvitaminCto everytwodaysoreveryotherdaybeforeusingiteverydaycanhelpeasetolerabilityissues. Althoughit’snotcommon,therearesomewhocan’ttoleratevitaminCandmayexperiencearash orsimilarreaction.Inthisinstance,theyshoulddiscontinueuseimmediately.

VitaminCDerivate

AsabreakthroughalternativetoAscorbicAcid,SodiumAscorbylPhosphate,MagnesiumAscorbylPhosphate,SodiumAscorbate,CalciumAscorbate,andAscorbylPalmitate,thenewVitaminCderivative 3-O EthylAscorbicAcid hasaslowerreleaseandislessirritating,withnotoxiceffectsobserved.

3-O-Ethyl-L-AscorbicAcid isamoleculeproducedbymodifyingAscorbicAcid.Thismodificationis donetoincreasethemolecule’sstabilityandenhanceitstransportthroughskin. 3-OEthylAscorbic Acid isdeliveredandmetabolizedbytheskinas pureVitaminC

Usagelevelsof3-OEthylAscorbicAcidinskincaremaybeashighas20%andoptimumstability wasobservedinformulationsatpHrange4.0–5.5.Inaddition,3-0EthylAscorbicAciddoesnot oxidizelikeotherVitaminCmoleculeswhichmeanstheproductformulationismorestable,doesnot turncolormeaningitretainsitspurityandefficacyovertime.

VitaminC/3-OEthylAscorbicAcidshouldbeappliedinthemorningundersunscreenforoptimal protectionifyouareplanningtobeinthesun.Itcanalsobeappliedpostsunexposurewithinthe firstfewhourstoassistwithDNArepair.AsadailyritualVitaminCshouldbeappliedimmediately aftercleansingbeforeanyotherproductsareapplied.

Sources:

1.YoungAR(2020)ComparisonofSkinPhotoprotectionbyPigmentationand Sunscreens.J.Cosm.Sci.71:217-226

2.ChaudhuriR,MeyerT,PremiS,BrashD.(2019)AcetylZingerone:Anefficacious multifunctionalingredientforcontinuedprotectionagainstongoingDNAdamage inmelanocytesaftersunexposureends.IntJCosmetSci42:36-45

3.PaoloGiacomoni,PhD-The-dark-side-of-melanin-and-how-to-avoid-it/

4.https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S0891584921004299Liao,W.C., Huang,Y. T.,Lu,L.P.,& Huang,W.Y.(2018).Antioxidant Ability and Stability Studies of 3-O-EthylAscorbicAcid,aCosmeticTyrosinaseInhibitor.Journalofcosmeticscience, 69(4),233–243.EthylAscorbicAcid(SpecWhite®VCE)bySpec-ChemIndustry

5.JimDavis,SCTLab,Chemist’sClinicalIngredientResearch-V3-O-Ethyl-L-Ascorbic Acid.AVitaminCDerivative.

LIVE WITH LYN

JoinLynRossL.M.E.for

EveryweekLynhelpsSkinCareSpecialistsEstheticians,Cosmetologists,Nurse SkinCarePractitionersandStudentsofAestheticslearnmoreaboutclinical skincareandpracticalbusinesstipsforoptimalclientresultsandbusiness success.

TopicsfocusonconfidencewithEnzyme,AcidandChemicalPeelsandinclude knowledgeonproductingredients,protocolsandhowtocreateahighly profitableskincarepractice.

TheInstitut’DERMed HealthySkinLifestyleProfessionalsGroupisknownfor helpingeachothertroubleshootclientcasestudies.Asamemberofour groupyouareinvitedtopostquestionsaboutactiveproductingredients,peel layering,andhowtomanagecomplications.

Seeyouthere:

https://www.facebook.com/groups/healthyskinprofessionals