Brewing up a Destination

BY M. DIANE MCCORMICK PHOTOGRAPHY COURTESY OF SOUTH COUNTY BREWING COMPANY

It’s a Friday afternoon at South County Brewing Company. Sam Terroso pops open a beer canned fresh from the tank.

“This is our Phosphene Dream that people go nuts about,” he says. “It’s probably one of the most hop-intensive beers. It’s only made about once every three months, so this will literally have people worked-up this weekend.”

Welcome to South County Brewing Company, a dazzling and daring entry into the craft beer scene. In the York County town of Leader Heights, the South County team has built a handcrafted, showcase destination for sipping meticulously brewed beers and dining on locally sourced, scratch-made American pub fare.

“We care about our customers’ experience,” says Kellee Terroso, a co-owner in the venture with her husband, Sam, and with co-owner and founder, JR Heaps and with his wife, Jen.

The story begins in the southern York County town of Fawn Grove, where JR Heaps worked in architectural restoration and homebrewed on the side. During the 2008-09 financial crisis, he took a leap of faith, dedicating himself to brewing and building a loyal following.

In 2011, Heaps and his father built a small production facility. Heaps went door-to-door, selling beer from the trunk of his car. As his business grew, Heaps acquired partners, including Kurt Kay, a friend of Sam Terroso. Before long, they were producing 1,500 barrels a year, racing to keep pace with demand.

Sadly, Kay died in 2019. It was a time when the brewing operation “needed a bigger platform,” in Sam Terroso’s words. The Terrosos, both steeped in entrepreneurship, bought out Heaps’ remaining partners, joining Heaps and his wife, Jen, as co-owners.

Another leap of faith came in COVID-era 2020, when the team found 13 acres in Leader Heights. There, with the support of local officials, the dream of a flagship brewery took shape. Heaps applied his architectural background to designing a barn-inspired brewery.

Today, ceilings soar with beams of Douglas fir. Amish craftsmen made the iron chandeliers and towering stone fireplaces. Distinct spaces include the beer hall-style dining room, upstairs loft, and outdoor bar with fire pits coming this year.

Private event spaces, leather-upholstered “power booths” inspired by Kellee, and even restrooms adorned with giant logos of South County beers reflect the rustic-glam aesthetic.

“The masons chipped the fireplace stone for four months,” says Sam. “It’s all there. Everything here is legit. This isn’t a veneer or cookie cutter.”

Adds Kellee, “We wanted to make it a destination. The demand was there, but the market and state of the world was extremely difficult yet we succeeded.”

In the 30-barrel brewhouse, visible through giant plate-glass windows, German equipment gleaming in stainless steel comes from Schulz, founded in 1677 to make vats for Bavarian monks. With its reputation to uphold, Schulz carefully vets its customers for their beer making skill (find a video on South County made by a Schulz film crew at kaspar-schulz.de/insight).

Under Master Brewer Heaps, freshness, consistency, and balance are the keywords. South County expects to produce from 4,000 to 5,000 barrels in 2023, with a current capacity of 18,000 barrels per year as they continue to expand distribution into eastern Pennsylvania and Maryland.

“Those guys have done a great job in production,” said Sam. “You better know what you’re doing, because if you’re going to ask someone to spend a lot of money on a case of craft beer at a distributor, it better be right, and it better be good.”

Brews cover the spectrum—pale ales, lagers, cider, IPAs, porters, and stouts. The Phosphene Dream balances hops and citrus. The Valley of Kings stout tastes like s’mores with notes of chocolate and marshmallow. Kettle sours are flavored—key lime, anyone? And an isolated clean room will store wild yeast, away from damaging contact with domestic yeast, for production of true sours.

In March, South County’s first batch of bourbon went into a still from Vendome Copper & Brass Works, maker of equipment for Buffalo Trace and other top distilleries.

Sit down for a meal, complemented by South County beer, a clever cocktail, or a Pennsylvania wine. The menu from Executive Chef Matt Cohen features BBQ brisket, ribs, pork, pork belly, or sausage made in a vast, world-class southern-style smoker. Nibble on a side of mac ‘n cheese, BBQ baked beans, or densely delicious buttermilk biscuits.

There are also pizzas, sandwiches that include a shrimp po’ boy or the popular hot chicken, and enticing dinnertime entrees including mushroom risotto or a 28-ounce dry-aged steak. Save room for an amazing cookie, cheesecake, or chocolate bourbon tart.

From brioche to pizza dough, it’s all house made and sourced from local farms.

“The bakery team starts at 3 in the morning,” says Kellee. Under General Manager Matt Muller, South County Brewing Company is hitting its stride as a destination for good beer, good food, and attentive service. Watch for more taprooms that spread the South County experience throughout the region.

“The thing that makes me feel best about this project is how many times people say, ‘Thank you for building something we can be proud of,’” says Sam Terroso. “It’s a labor of love and patience. We believe in the brand. If you show up and work hard every day and have good people around you, it’s just gonna happen.”

South County Brewing Company

170 Crossway Dr, York, PA 17402

Fawn Grove Tap Room

104 Mill St, Fawn Grove, PA 17321 southcountybrewing.com

Asparagus Ricotta Tart

This is the perfect quick and easy appetizer or crowd pleasing side dish for your spring menu. Wow your guests and family with this simple yet versatile and tasty tart. It takes less than ten minutes to make and is ready to eat in less than a half hour!

1 17.3 oz pkg frozen puffed pastry, thawed

1 lb asparagus, trimmed

2 eggs, whisked

1 cup ricotta

½ cup crumbled feta

1 Tbsp fresh dill, chopped

Zest of one lemon

2 garlic cloves, minced

Fresh ground black pepper and salt to taste

1 Tbsp olive oil from brushing

Optional: dash of cayenne pepper

Instructions

1. Preheat the oven to 425°.

2. Unroll two puffed pastry sheets and place them on a baking sheet covered with parchment paper. With a butter knife, cut a square ½ inch around the edges of both sheets, making sure to not go the whole way through the pastry.

3. In a bowl, whisk two eggs. Then add ricotta, feta, dill, lemon zest, garlic, cayenne, salt, and pepper.

4. Once combined, evenly divide between puffed pastry sheets and spread to the edges of your square.

5. Wash and trim your asparagus. Then, divide between each pastry and carefully arrange within the square.

6. Brush pastry edges with olive oil and drizzle the remainder over the asparagus. Bake in the oven for 18- 20 minutes or until the edges are golden brown and have puffed up.

7. Remove from the oven, then allow it to cool for 5 minutes. Serve and enjoy immediately.