Balint Ana Denisa Level 5, 2019-20 5FAMK003C Visual and video techniques CWK1 Nicolas Godon 1530 words
INDEX ANALYSIS EDITORIAL CATALOG WEBSITE ISSUE REFERENCES
CORPORATE PROFILE
Rick Owens is an American brand founded in 1994 by Rick Owens. He started designing women’s-wear by decomposing garments and creating new ones in a destroying-luxury way - often referred to as Glunge, a mix between Grunge and Glamour. His career started with humble beginnings. Rick Owens dropped out of Otis College of Art and Design to take a course in pattern making. This led him to a position cutting patterns that illegally knocked-off designer clothing. This was an ironic start to his career in fashion seeing that he’s now one of the most imitated designers of his generation.
BRAND BACKGROUND
Owens began his fashion career in the 1990s, hand-stitching jackets and selling them himself to store buyers in their offices. In 1990 he was hired by designer Michelle Lamy to work on her clothing line Lamy. The pair later became business partners and later married. In 1994 the designer opened his fashion line out on Hollywood Boulevard in LA, with a debut in womenswear. In 2001 The first Rick Owens show took place at the NewYork Fashion Week’s
Spring/Summer 2002 season. The show was sponsored by American Vogue, after Kate Moss was spotted wearing an Owens leather jacket in French Vogue earlier that year.
the designer exhibited a furniture collection – with pieces originally designed for his Paris HQ. Inspired by shapes from Californian skate parks. The collection first opened in Berlin.
In 2002 the designer was appointed artistic director at Revillon, the French fur company. He continued to design there until 2007.
On June 2013 Owens unveiled the first of his now-legendary Adidas collaborations.
That same year he broke into menswear. He became known for his twist on classic silhouettes and of course as much black as one can must. In April 2010 for the first time
On December 2017 Owens’ first museum exhibition and retrospective, chronicling over 20 years of his life’s work, entitled, “Subhuman Inhuman Superhuman” opened at the Triennale di Milano.
CURRENT SITUATION
Owens got married to Michèle Lamy in 2006. She is best known as his wife, mate and creative accomplice, but she has been a clothing designer, performer, film producer, and restaurateur. They became an unstoppable team, full of creativity. They designed a line of furniture together and inspire one another. Rick defines her as his mate, more than a muse, because “mate” suggests you are
doing something together. Today his privately held business — an outré empire trading in everything from jeans to mink stoles to furniture made of 500,000-yearold fossilized bark—is reputed to be worth upwards of $100 million. He said on an interview for Surface Magazine: “We got so far beyond where I ever thought we would be. If this falls apart tomorrow, I still won.”
Rick Owens has just launched the Spring-Summer 2020 collection in Palais de Tokyo. It is inspired by his Mexican background. It is also a criticism of the president of the United States, Donald Trump, since the designer feels great adversity for his beliefs, in this case his hostility towards Mexicans, whom he has repeatedly referred to as “animals” and “criminals, “And worse.
COMMUNICATION BACKGROUND
“I plan to lose touch with reality. And the more I lose touch with reality, the better I’ll get… I think.”
BRAND BACKGROUND
These alternate orientations made for a game of peekaboo on the runway models who were, ahem, obviously without any undergarments.
During Paris men’s Fashion Week, Rick Owens shocked the crowd by including some visible penises in a show of his new collection for fall/winter 2015. The show opened with a selection of coats and outerwear. The scandal, however, came via experimentations with the repositioning of clothes on the body: a selection of tunics, jackets, and capes, wrapped and draped, designed to be worn upside-down or in reverse.
As the models walked they exposed various parts of their body—a shoulder here, a nipple there. But when you wear a top upside-down, with no pants or underwear, it offers a clear line of sight through the neck hole to your naughty bits. “This isn’t just about nudity. What Owens did was very subversively challenging Western cultural institutions — which are simultaneously obsessed birth”
Rick Owens had a surprising and interesting take on accessories for his Spring/Summer 2016 ready-to-wear collection in Paris. Owens sent models down the runway wearing other models as backpacks. The designer told Women's Wear Daily that it was all about "women carrying women," adding that he had specifically recruited gymnasts and dancers for the task. The models themselves hung lifeless and were as unmoving as a mannequin. Owens said he wanted to “portray the acts of supporting, cradling, even giving birth�.
“Clothes are about aspiration. If I can make weirdness aspirational, I will have done what I set out to do – to expand a somewhat strict set of accepted aesthetic rules.”
THE MESSAGE
“My aesthetic is a very simple recipe – a black and white, Art Deco, Cecil B DeMille lurid Bible Epic.”
Rick Owens is a relatively recent brand. It stands out for its extravagance and reflects a clear dominance in geometric cuts.
and a very committed-to-his-beliefs person. He has always been very honest and straightforward with his thoughts and his collections reflect that.
However, it always maintains its line of neutral colors - black, gray, white, raw, earth tones...
When asked whom does he design for, he answered:
Its public is mainly young and wealthy people - as it is a luxury brand. Dressing in Rick Owens is a statement. It reflects a Punk revel and glamour. The designer himself is an activist
“Me. The only way this thing stays pure is if I isolate what I really like and what is a personal expression. As soon as I start considering other people and what they might like, I kind of get lost.�
TARGET MARKET
EDITORIAL
EDITORIAL BRIEF
This collection for Spring / Summer 2020 will continue wirh the previous line of work of Rick Owens. “We want to express in a clear, visual way the feeling of wildness and freedom that the brand wants to transmit.� - said the designer. This last collection must be truly a piece of art - a tribute to the great designer and his entire team. A fierce collection that expresses the feeling of rebellion that inspired Rick Owens for this collection - a collection inspired by his Mexican roots and showing his adverity against Donald Trump.
PAGE LAYOUT
This layout was chosen as it perfectly reflects Rick Owens personality, simple and raw. Moreover the colour pallet is black and white in order to reflect the minimalist personality and DNA of the brand. The fact that important social issues are addressed such as racism coming from President Trump towards Mexicans is conveyed and presented through the colours chosen which brings a symbolic homage towards repression and racism.
“I like things pretty reduced. I don’t understand how people live with so much stuff around them, because you can’t focus on it, and after a while it ends up becoming absorbed. It’s not as if anything’s really being appreciated. To me all that stuff is some desperate message to everyone about who you are, like bumper stickers.”Rick Owens
THE MODELS
Creepy is the new pretty Since last F-W 2019/20 ready-to-wear collection, Rick Owens has featured alien styles inspired by the American rock group Kiss. The biggest Fall 2019 beauty trend is far from stereotypically “beauty”, models in monster-like face make-up – horns, alienlike nose cartilage, billowing wigs, and giant black pupils – strode out inside the Palais de Tokyo venue.
THE SHOOT
DIRECTION
HAIR AND MAKE-UP
This collection will continue with the characteristic dark aesthetic line of Rick Owens seen in past seasons. Androgen models will appear on the catwalk, with an extended make-up work that will accentuate alien or extraterrestrial features such as black pupils, horns on the face, no eyebrows and barely hair on their head... Rick Owens uses the models as another way to transgress the rules - he breaks the game by not following the traditional standards of beauty seen before on the catwalk. He takes a risk using unconventional models that can -and probably will- influence on how the public will receive the collection.
CATALOG
COVER CATALOG
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