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NO.286 NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2017

Editor & Publisher Peter Simic

E: editor@winestate.com.au

Managing Editor Lara Simic

E: lara@winestate.com.au

NZ Editor Jane Skilton MW

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Sub-editor Michael Bates Administration Vicki Bozsoki

E: administration@winestate.com.au

Graphic Designer Naomi Fry

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Marketing Manager Peter Jackson

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Tasting Coordinator

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Printing DAI Rubicon Winestate Web Site

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WINESTATE New Zealand Administration Kay Morganty Phone: (09) 479 1253

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CONTRIBUTORS New South Wales Winsor Dobbin, Elisabeth King, Clive Hartley South Australia Skye Murtagh, Joy Walterfang, Valmai Hankel, Nigel Hopkins, Dan Traucki Victoria Jeni Port, Hilary McNevin Western Australia Mike Zekulich Queensland Peter Scudamore-Smith MW, Andrew Corrigan MW, Lizzie Loel New Zealand Jane Skilton MW, Emma Jenkins MW National Travel Winsor Dobbin EUROPE André Pretorius, Giorgio Fragiacomo, Sally Easton MW ASIA Denis Gastin HONG KONG Lucy Jenkins ADVERTISING SALES Australia & International Peter Jackson, Winestate Publishing Phone: (08) 8357 9277 E-mail: sales@winestate.com.au Mike O’Reilly, Public Relations - oreillym@ozemail.com.au Victoria John Ogden Lifestyle Media Vic Pty Ltd Phone: 03 9696 9960 Email: john@lifestylemediavic.com.au New South Wales Pearman Media Phone: (02) 9929 3966 Queensland Jaye Coley Phone: (07) 3839 4100 E-mail: jaye@themediaworkshop.com.au New Zealand Debbie Bowman – McKay & Bowman Phone: +64 9 419 0561 Email: Debbie@mckaybowman.co.nz France Mr Philippe Marquezy - Espace Quadri Phone: + 33 170 644 700 Fax: + 33 607 780 466 Web: www.espacequadri.com Email: d.rouget.marquezy@gmail.com DISTRIBUTORS Australia Gordon and Gotch Australia P/L International DAI Rubicon WINESTATE is published six times a year by WINESTATE PUBLISHING PTY LTD, 81 King William Road, Unley SA 5061. Copyright 2017 by WINESTATE PUBLISHING PTY LTD. This publication may not, in whole or in part, be copied, photocopied, reproduced, translated or reduced to any electronic medium or machine-readable form without the express permission of the publisher. Every care is taken in compiling the contents of this publication, but the publisher assumes no responsibility for the effects arising therefrom. ABN 56 088 226 411 Winestate Telephone (08) 8357 9277 Facsimile (08) 8357 9212 E-mail editor@winestate.com.au Web Site www.winestate.com.au

November/December 2017

W I N E S TAT E

contents NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2017

F E A T U R E S 32

CLIMATE DELIVERS A COOL FUTURE Mountains - Feathertop, Bogong, Hotham and Beauty - might dominate the landscape in North East Victoria, but it’s the valleys that are being increasingly recognised as prime wine country. Jeni Port writes that the Alpine Valleys wine region produces a unique coolclimate style of wine with a distinctly European flavour. Wines with a rich northern hemisphere tradition such as ﬁano, vermentino, friulano, savagnin, nebbiolo and sangiovese are dominant in the region.

South Africa’s wine industry and Michael Fridjhon are inextricably linked. Fridjhon has immersed himself in his national wine industry for the last 35 years, reports Dan Traucki in our regular Wine Words feature. Respected international wine judge, wine writer and leading industry strategist, Fridjhon has also gained an international reputation for his outspoken views. An industry mover

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father, Ian, and continue to develop the family vineyard and label Galafrey - in West Australia’s Great Southern wine region. Mike Zekulich explains that their decision has paid off handsomely as the women, joined by Kim’s husband Nigel Rowe, are R E among the region’s leading wine 12 producers. 24 MASTER SPRUIKER 26

and shaker, Fridjhon believes South African wines are on the verge of a new era with newer/smaller producers delivering world-class wines that are exciting and delicious.

G U L A R S Briefs European Report with Sally Easton Wine Tutor with Clive Hartley

Wine Travel with Elisabeth King

Wine History with Valmai Hankel

Grapevine

Wine Words

What’s it Worth?

Wine Investment & Collecting

129

Subscription Form

130

Aftertaste

W I N E

GOING THE DISTANCE

T A S T I N G S

62 Pinot Noir

It might have been easier to sell up and move on, but mother and daughter grapegrowers Linda and Kim Tyrer decided to follow the dream of their late husband and

68 Champagne & Sparkling 78 Limestone Coast 88 Hunter Valley 96 North East Victoria 102 Hawkes Bay, NZ 108 Jane Skilton’s Recent Releases

112 Brandy, Cognac & Armagnac

114 New Releases and Best Value Buys under $20.

Winestate Magazine Issue Number 286 November/December 2017 Cover photograph Paul Grecaud 8

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For a complete list of what we tasted for this issue please refer to www.winestate.com.au

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IT SEEMS HARD TO BELIEVE but apparently Australia has more snow than Switzerland. Of course it’s not very deep, like the great Swiss valleys, but across the wide expanse of Alpine Valleys in Victoria, New South Wales, Tasmania and Canberra it’s the distance that matters. Even in tropical Queensland, the high altitude Granite Belt regularly gets snow in winter. I say all this because in a country the size of Europe there is a perception among some that Australia is a warm, if not a hot, climate wine producing region. This may partially be true of the vast inland commercial wines (in the same way that Languedoc produces France’s cheap and cheerful wines), but is way off the mark for most wine company labels. Of the over 2,500 or so small company brands most hug the coastline from north to south and east to west. Southern micro-climates are colder than Burgundy as are some high altitude vineyards. The more you look the more you realise what a great country of diversity is available before you, producing any kind of style from any variety. Although the established companies have been practising for over 120 years, the newcomers are experimenting with new varieties in new micro-climates, or adapting their ideas to old ways. Very exciting times indeed! To emphasise these comments senior wine writer, Jeni Port, travels to North-East Victoria’s Alpine Valleys to showcase what cool climate wine is all about. On the doorstep of the world renowned Rutherglen region, famous for its luscious, decadent fortifieds, the Hills above are a complete counterpoint of fresh elegant lively wines. Also of cool climate interest is our annual judging of Australian and New Zealand pinot noirs. This elusive red variety promises so much but requires a deft hand, and often restraint, to deliver the best it can be. Thankfully the old days when we joked that those who made shiraz should not be allowed to make pinot are long gone and there are fewer “dry reds around”. However addiction dies hard and we have noted that in the mid-price range a dash of shiraz is sometimes used for additional colour and flavour at the expense of varietal character. But as a winemaker whit put it “add one percent shiraz to a pinot, it’s a shiraz”. Our judging showed there are some great easy drinking pinots at the value end and some complex pinots at the pointy end. In the middle it pays to be selective. Sparkling wines are also featured in this issue, where pinot without skin colour sneaks into many blends. It is an interesting battle between the French champagnes and the best from Australia and New Zealand. Again, these come from the cooler regions, like Tasmania. There is a market for both and our excuse is to keep drinking them. The Limestone Coast of South Australia, centred around Coonawarra, is also often regarded as a cooler climate region and in this issue we enjoy over 100 examples of fine wines, with cabernet the king. Again. Other regional judgings in this issue include the fabulous Hunter Valley region, Australia’s first, and one that produces age worthy world class semillons, and damn fine chardonnay and shiraz as well. For our New Zealand readers the amazing Hawke’s Bay region is featured, which can produce a wide range of varietals from chardonnay to syrah, wines which feature regularly in our Winestate Wine of the Year Awards. And if this is not enough, a judging of over 200 new releases offers an insight into what is new in the marketplace. The consumer here has never had it so good! Lots to like and lots to enjoy. Cheers!

Peter Simic Editor/Publisher

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November/December 2017

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STATES OF HARD WORK ONE leading Australian wine man is about to become the busiest in the business overseeing not one but two major producers in two states. Jim Chatto has been named chief winemaker for Tasmanian-based Kreglinger Wine Estates which he will now run in tandem with his existing role at McWilliam’s Wine Group based in the Hunter Valley. And, as if that wasn’t enough, the winemaker also has his own Tasmanian wine brand - Chatto Wines. The Tasmanian connection is strong with Chatto and so it’s a particularly good fit. He says he was attracted to the island to discover more about growing and making cool-climate pinot noir, and has praised McWilliam’s “flexibility” in allowing him to continue his dream. “The modern thinking and flexibility from both Kreglinger and McWilliam’s in allowing me to do what I do best is a testament to both company’s commitment to great Australian wine.”

BACK TO THE BOOKS WINE education in Australia is booming. Statistics released by the British-based Wine and Spirit Education Trust (WSET) show demand in Australia has never been higher for the group, with 27 per cent growth recorded for its courses in 2016-17. Its Level 2 Spirits has experienced the strongest growth of all courses offered - 106 per cent. The growth in wine education has encouraged other international groups to come to Australia. The latest is the French Wine Scholar Study & Certification Program which is now available through Melbourne Polytechnic. The course, developed by the Wine Scholar Guild with the support of the French Ministry of Agriculture, is delivered online and in two full-day workshops and covers the major regions of France and their wines, as well as some of the lesser-known areas such 12

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as Corsica, the Savoie, Jura and South-West. There are no pre-requisites for the course, although it is recommended that those applying have the WSET Level 3 or a good general knowledge of major French wine regions.

ON THE TOURIST TRAIL CHINESE wine tourists are now a leading force in winery tourism in Australia. One tour operator, AAT Kings, has reported a whopping 600 per cent increase in Chinese bookings for its wine tours between 2013 and 2014, and more recently a 300 per cent increase between 2015 and 2016. The most popular destination for wine tourists is the Hunter Valley in New South Wales followed by the Yarra Valley in Victoria, with the majority of visitors aged between 20 and 40 years. Other wine producing areas of interest are the Barossa Valley, Clare Valley, Coonawarra, Tamar Valley and Margaret River. Tourism operators cite growth in wine consumption in China - it now ranks 36th in the world with 1.34 litres/head - for the increased numbers of Chinese wine tourists to this country.

HOT WINDS IT was, said the judging panel behind London’s 2017 Harpers Design Awards, “inevitable” that Canberra’s Four Winds Vineyard would take out top honours with its new wine labels. “Four Winds redesign,” the panel found, “is an example of a winery putting their necks on the line for a complete identity overhaul and the result was a trade-up from something quite serviceable to something truly standout.” The re-design of the company’s wine labels, something business manager Sarah Collingwood says was much debated within the business, has ended up taking out two major design awards - Overall Supreme Champion at the International Wine

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Design Challenge and Supreme Champion at the Harpers Design Awards. The labels are connected to a central theme - wind - and use striking photos of simple everyday experiences; among them, sheets ﬂying, dandelion seeds ﬂoating, a pinwheel turning.

for wine scientists at the Australian Wine Research Institute in Adelaide. A decade-long collaboration which started in 2004 resulted in important research on colour and tannin. The latest joint project is on flavour. The Institute will be analysing the flavours of 60 vintages of Black Label with particular attention paid to sulphides, the naturally occurring compounds of sulphur created during winemaking.

SPIRITS MOVE HIM STEFANO Lubiana’s Italian heritage is to be celebrated with a range of Italian-style spirits. The Tasmanian winemaker plans to launch a selection of spirits by Christmas, including varietal grappas, some based on bio-dynamically-grown fruit. He is also working on an amaro-style herbal liqueur, based on the popular distillation made in Bologna which employs 40 different herbs. There is also an aquavita distillation in the works using quinces as well as the exotic, dark brown nocino-style liqueur based on the famous Emilia Romagna liqueur made from unripe green walnuts. Production will be small and artisanal. “This is only a hobby for me,” he says. “Hence, why it’s taking years.”

CELEBRATING THE BLACK LABEL IT was a time of celebration but also an opportunity for looking forward as much as looking back. Wynn’s Coonawarra Estate Black Label cabernet sauvignon turned 60 vintages old this year and after two days of tasting vintages from 1954 through to 2015, chief winemaker Sue Hodder paused for reflection. “These are the conventions we hold true, that inform our winemaking philosophy,” she said. “Vintage trumps everything.” The power of a great vintage such as 1964, 1986, 1991 or 2004, 2010, 2012 will always stand the test of time. Being able to source cabernet sauvignon from a number of vineyards is also a great Black Label strength, giving the wine consistency. “Wines should be supple enough to drink young but still age well,” she said. This was something she had learnt, she said, from tasting Black Label cabernet from the 1960s era. It has been a lesson well learnt. “There shouldn’t be the perception that cabernet has to be aged to be consumed,” she said. But the perception remains and now affects sales of the grape variety in this country, but it doesn’t hold true as the tasting of the more recent Black Label cabernets showed so well. The 2014 vintage was particularly in very fine, drinkable form. “Black Label is still our most important wine,” she concluded, “the wine we are known for and judged by.” Black Label’s long history has made it an ideal testing ground November/December 2017

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HOME IS WHERE THE CELLAR DOOR IS IT is all change at Barossa Valley winery Elderton, where secondgeneration owners Cameron and Allister Ashmead have opened their family home in Nuriootpa as the wine label’s new cellar door. After a major restoration to the building and surrounding gardens, the new Elderton Wines cellar door is one of only a handful to showcase a winery’s heritage and history by opening the family homestead to the public. The new Barossa winery cellar door will celebrate the Ashmead family history and their successes in the wine industry since their arrival in the Barossa in 1979. The new cellar door overlooks the old vine Command shiraz block and features a private lounge and dining room, a 20m swimming pool, helipad and tennis court for Elderton Wine Club members, four private tasting rooms and multiple outdoor areas, including a vine-covered dining area overlooking the lawns. “It is a very exciting development for our family winery and the whole team at Elderton cannot wait to show it off,” co-managing director Cameron said. The brothers grew up in the house with their parents, Elderton Wines founders Neil and Lorraine Ashmead. Cameron describes the building as: “One of Australia’s grandest examples of gentleman’s bungalow architecture from the World War I period.” The new cellar door will provide facilities for private bookings, personalised wine experiences, bespoke wine events and corporate functions. Visitors can also enjoy seasonal platters and tasting plates, learn about Elderton’s award-winning wines in the public tasting room and enjoy the lawns and gardens surrounding the homestead. Elderton, 3-5 Tanunda Rd, Nuriootpa; open weekdays 10am-5pm and weekends 11am-4pm.

FLY IN, FLY OUT WINE industry workers, constantly ﬂying either in or out of Sydney Airport, will welcome the arrival of the new Mantra at Sydney Airport hotel. Rooms at the on-airport site are smartly designed for today’s airport visitor, with fast, free wiﬁ, several well-positioned power points and USB chargers, light switches that are easily reached from the bed, and a shower that is simplicity itself. Add in the fact that the Mantra is the closest hotel to Sydney’s domestic terminal 14

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and that prices start at $159 for an aviation-themed double room, and the hotel seems certain to be popular with wine types. The new Mantra was ofﬁcially opened by New South Wales Minister for Tourism and Major Events, Adam Marshall, and Mantra Group CEO Bob East said the new 136-room property provides muchneeded hotel capacity to support the growth of aviation and tourism in the Sydney basin. “Mantra Hotel at Sydney Airport addresses the demand for contemporary airport accommodation with vibrant, dynamic facilities and a slick service culture,” East said. “The key factors for a new hotel are location, product and service, and even just a week after the soft opening, this property already feels right. We’re thrilled to partner with Sydney Airport on this project which is a win for the economic growth of Sydney.” The eight-storey landmark building is the newest hotel at Sydney Airport and Sydney’s third on-airport hotel. Mantra Hotel has an integrated reception and lobby with a 24/7 atmosphere and service, express check-out, internet kiosk, airport screen updates and relaxed dining with local beers (including Young Henry’s), as well as wines. Visit www.mantrahotels.com or phone 1300 987 603.

NEW FOCUS ON WHITES PENFOLDS has always been a label better known for its red wines than its whites. But that will change if Treasury Wine Estates chief executive Michael Clarke has his way. Clarke wants to boost production and interest in Penfolds white wines, which include the ﬂagship Yattarna chardonnay. Around 90 per cent of Penfolds wines are

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reds. Clarke said Treasury was planning “an exciting white wine strategy for Penfolds,” mainly concentrating on chardonnay and riesling. “Increasing production of white wine under the Penfolds banner represents an additional phase of growth,” he said. “We have some exciting plans for this brand on a global stage in ﬁscal 2019 and beyond. There is a huge opportunity to grow white wine. We’re now signiﬁcantly accelerating the sourcing of white wine for the Penfolds portfolio.” He said it would take a very long time for a white wine to reach the status of iconic Penfolds Grange, if at all. “White wines generally don’t hit the price points that Grange hits,” he said.

of d’Arenberg back vintages, alongside a carefully curated selection of champagne and international wines.” d’Arry’s owner and chief winemaker Chester Osborn says he’s “thrilled with the enthusiasm and talent” the new team will bring to the Cube, scheduled to open before the end of the year.

PICKEN JOINS THE CUBISTS ONE of the most familiar faces among South Australian sommeliers will be front man for the hi-tech d’Arenberg Cube in McLaren. Josh Picken, who made his name at Orana restaurant in Adelaide and has since worked at the Currant Shed and Shobosho has been named as a key cubist by the Osborn family. He will link with restaurant manager Sarah Feehan (Noma, Orana, Attica, Southern Ocean Lodge) and head chefs Brendan Wessels and Lindsay Durr at the anticipated McLaren Vale winery restaurant and tasting facility. “Chester ﬁrst told me about his plan for the d’Arenberg Cube over 10 years ago, and even then I was excited about his vision,” Picken said. “The restaurant’s wine list will be full

SECOND STINT FOR MULRY CHEF Jane-Therese Mulry is a familiar face for Australian gastronauts, having cooked at venues including Cradle Mountain Lodge in Tasmania and Qualia in Queensland as well as The Siam in Bangkok. Nowadays Mulry is in her second stint working in South Africa as the executive chef of the Saxon Hotel, Villas and Spa in Johannesburg, where Qunu is one of the most prestigious gourmet addresses in the country. The Saxon was recently named on Travel+Leisure's World’s Best List as one of the Best City Hotels in Africa for 2017. The Saxon boasts that both its red and white cellars are a “constantly evolving work in progress” and the list ranges from Penfolds, Pewsey Vale, Henschke and Vasse Felix to Petrus, and a stunning array of South African stand outs. For Mulry’s wining and dining tips in Johannesburg visit www.saxon.co.za/2017/08/22/restaurantin-johannesburg-jane-therese-mulry.

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www.wine-ark.com.au 1300 946 327 November/December 2017

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FIZZY FESTIVAL

TASTES TO THAI FOR DRINKING good wine in Thailand can be problematic for visitors, with many good wines ultra-expensive due to local taxation laws and with poor storage also sometimes an issue. Not so at The Nai Harn, the first luxury resort on Phuket which reopened in 2016 after extensive renovations and is the only Leading Hotels of the World member on Phuket. Overlooking pristine Nai Harn Beach, the Nai Harn makes a virtue of its wine lists (including a selection of rosés from around the world selected by wine guru James Suckling) and its regular hostings of culinary kingpins ranging from mixologist Salim Khuory to chef Will Holland. Rock Salt, The Nai Harn's chic beachside restaurant serves up inventive dishes featuring flavours from the Eastern Mediterranean and North Africa, while recently opened sushi and sashimi bar, Hansha, offers spectacular rooftop views, and Cosmo serves a wide range of cuisines, including an outstanding buffet breakfast. The culinary team has also created a choice of special private dining menus catering to couples seeking an intimate meal for two served on the spacious private terraces that connect to each of Nai Harn’s 130 rooms and suites, most of which also feature four-poster daybeds. “The Nai Harn concept goes well beyond offering luxurious accommodation,” says general manager Frank Grassmann. “Our aim is to ensure that each step of every guest’s journey with us is an experience to be remembered. Perhaps nowhere is this more apparent than in our ever-changing culinary offerings and emphasis on world class cuisine. Since the resort re-opening last May, the Nai Harn has quickly become one of Phuket’s most sought-after dining destinations. To wash down the fine fare, the Nai Harn wine cellar stocks an impressive range of fine vintage wines, including personal selections made by Suckling, who hosted a Great Wines of Italy gala event at the resort. Grassmann introduced a consumer friendly wine pricing policy with attractive prices on a full range of wines. “Great food deserves fabulous wine. So we decided to add amazing prices and complete the overall pleasure of the experience,” he said. Visit www.thenaiharn.com.

EFFERVESCENCE Tasmania has taken just a couple of years to become established as one of the leading sparkling wine festivals globally. Now in its fourth year, Effervescence returns on November 16-19 in Launceston with an increased range of events. It will celebrate the new world’s best sparkling wines across a long weekend of indulgence. With close to 1000 guests participating in 2016, Effervescence Tasmania is rapidly developing a cult following. Chef Jacques Reymond will host a Sunday degustation lunch at Josef Chromy Wines, presented by the Porsche Centre Hobart which will also showcase its luxury vehicles. The Sunday also offers the opportunity to enjoy brunch with Jansz’s Louisa Rose and visit accomplished sparkling producers in the Pipers River region of northern Tasmania, while multi-award winning wine writer, television presenter and international speaker Tyson Stelzer will deliver a Tasmanian sparkling masterclass. Stelzer is regarded as Australia’s pre-eminent authority on sparkling wine. Across the weekend, wine from Tasmania’s great sparkling houses will be presented, sampled and sold in the grounds of Josef Chromy Wines. Food and wine pairing will be the focus of masterclasses with Bruny Island Cheese and Huon Aquaculture. Intimate “ferment” sessions will have guests up close and personal with Tasmanian sparkling winemakers to ask questions and share stories. Effervescence Tasmania program and tickets are available at www.effervescencetasmania.com. Participating wineries include Apogee, Clover Hill, Delamere, Freycinet Vineyard, Frogmore Creek, Ghost Rock, House of Arras, Jansz, Josef Chromy Wines, Moorilla, Pipers Brook, Pirie Tasmania, Stefano Lubiana and Spring Vale.

PACKAGE WINS SUPPORT THE grape and wine sector has welcomed the Australian Government’s $50 million Export and Regional Wine Support Package. Australian Vignerons, the Winemakers’ Federation of Australia and Wine Australia worked in close consultation with the Australian grape and wine sector to develop the business plan for the package which will be delivered over three years. The package, launched in late August by Deputy Prime Minister and Minister for Agriculture and Water Resources, Barnaby Joyce, and Assistant Minister for

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Agriculture and Water Resources, Anne Ruston, comprises four distinct programs that aim to transform the sector by enhancing and showcasing the nation’s wine tourism offering while driving further demand for Australia’s growing wine exports. Australian Vignerons independent chair Jo Andrew praised the manner in which all parties had supported the opportunity provided by the package. “This funding allows Australian growers and makers of wine to build on the excellent recent results in both domestic and international markets,“ Andrew said. “This is a great outcome from the collaboration between the wine sector, Wine Australia and the Federal Government.” Winemakers’ Federation of Australia president Sandy Clark said: “The $50 million package provides a once-in-a-generational opportunity to grow demand for Australian wine. It will beneﬁt all winemakers and provide a lasting platform for proﬁtability throughout the supply chain.”

HOUSE RULES THE Margaret River Wine Association has appointed former politician Barry House as its independent chairperson. House represented the Margaret River region in the West Australian parliament for 30 years. He was the president of the Legislative Council from 2009-2017 and recently retired from parliament. The MRWA board said: “The board feel Barry’s connection to the region and proven ability to work collaboratively will stand MRWA in an excellent position to improve the effectiveness of the board, increase stakeholder and member engagement, and position Margaret River wine as one of the world’s most compelling regional ﬁne wine experiences.” Co-chair Cath Oates said: “For some time I have advocated a change from a reliance on a volunteer president to utilising the services of an experienced, independent chairperson. This change will ensure the Margaret River Wine Association maintains integrity and relevance to all members, and there is appropriate governance commensurate with the increased ﬁnancial requirements and resulting expectations.”

NEXT PHASE SHAW Vineyard Estate, a premium family-owned winery at Murrumbateman, has reopened its cellar door restaurant under new management and with a new name - Olleyville at Shaw Vineyard Estate. Situated between Canberra and Yass on the Barton Highway, the restaurant takes it name from the historic mid-19th century

wool producing property that was taken over by the Shaw family and turned into a vineyard 19 years ago. The restaurant has been given a new lease of life by the Shaw family and caterers Create Events, with a small refurbishment complete and a second-stage full refurbishment scheduled for the opening of a new cellar door early next year. Shaw Vineyard Estate owner Graeme Shaw said: “It’s fantastic to have on board a restaurateur with the history and resources of Create Events to take the restaurant to another level. We are looking forward to providing a great dining experience for locals and tourists alike that we hope will help to create a new destination venue for the region.” Olleyville will be open from Wednesday to Sunday for lunch and dinner, and weekends for breakfast, as well as offering bar snacks, cheese and wine boards, high tea and special events. A wood-fired oven will dominate both the restaurant and the menu with dishes ideal for sharing, includes free-range wood-fired chicken, baked whole baby Cone Bay barramundi and a range of wood-fired pizzas. Olleyville at Shaw Vineyard Estate, 34 Isabel Drive, Murrumbateman. Visit www.oleyville.com.au.

TASSIE RESTAURANTS’ TRIUMPH THE Source Restaurant at MONA and The Bridport Bunker Club have been announced as winners of the 2017 Tasmanian Wine List of the Year Awards. Wine Tasmania and the Tasmanian Hospitality Association (THA) ﬁrst partnered on these awards in 2014 in order to recognise and reward Tasmanian licensed businesses supporting and promoting the island’s wines as part of the THA’s annual Awards for Excellence. At the awards event in late August, Wine Tasmania chief executive Sheralee Davies announced the Judges’ Choice as The Source Restaurant at MONA and the People’s Choice as The Bridport Bunker Club. Judging was undertaken via a twostage process - an independent panel reviewed all applications, selected its winning venue and short-listed nine venues. The ﬁnalist venues were then promoted for a period of eight weeks, with the public encouraged to vote for their favourite. “Tasmania’s wines are regularly receiving global recognition which is encouraging more and more people to travel to Tasmania to try November/December 2017

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our wines. It is an important part of the visitor experience for them to be able to enjoy a glass of local wine over a meal during their visit, and it’s great to see so many venues promoting Tasmania’s outstanding wines as part of their offering,” Davies said. “The judges consider the representation of Tasmanian wines by the glass and by the bottle, in line with the venue’s overall offering, the depth and diversity of the wine range, the structure, accuracy and professionalism of the wine list, as well as staff training and wine knowledge.” Davies recognised the other finalists - Astor Grill, Bay Restaurant - Freycinet Lodge, Drift Cafe Restaurant, Grape Bar & Bottleshop, Hotel Bruny, Maldini and Mures Upper Deck, noting that it was a particularly strong field of finalists and acknowledging them all for their support of the local wine sector.

manager Victor Kirkbride says: “It is such an honour and pleasure to be unveiling this new collection of beverages to our guests. Guests are becoming more adventurous with their palates and the new menu is designed to get people excited about local, unique ingredients. We champion only the ﬁnest hand-crafted local spirits such as fynbos gin, multi-award-winning brandy and Methode Cap Classique (MCC) sparkling wine made in the surrounding winelands.” The new Taste of 21 cocktail range includes Cape Classique - cocktail variation consisting of KWV 10-year-old brandy and rooibos syrup topped with Methode Cap Classique sparkling wine and Amber Martini - a blend of Inverroche Amber Fynbos Gin, orange marmalade, Triple Sec (orange liqueur) and fresh lemon juice. The bar has a selection of over 400 whiskies from around the world as well as serving classics like negronis. Visit www.capegrace.com.

HOMEGROWN HERBS ADD NEW FLAVOURS

DRINK UP THE Cape Grace Hotel is one of the most fashionable addresses in Cape Town and its Bascule Bar is one the trendiest spots to visit for a waterfront drink. On the water’s edge at the V&A Waterfront yacht marina and with superb views of Table Mountain, Bascule is a cafe during the day that transforms into a lively bar when the sun goes down. The Cape Grace Hotel, recently named one of the Top City Hotels in Africa, has launched a new drinks menu as part of its countdown to its 21st birthday. The new cocktail list features ingredients grown only in South Africa and the hotel says it enables “guests to embark on an exploration of the country’s landscapes, folklore and history”. A variety of new cocktails aims to tell a uniquely South African story incorporating local ﬂavours and fragrances. Bascule Bar 18

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PAD Thai, the signature restaurant at the popular Thai resort Manathai Surin Phuket, has added extra authentic flavours to its menu, with home-grown ingredients planted and picked from the resort’s organic garden. The herbs, including basil, sweet basil, chilli, mint and lemongrass are harvested for use in traditional recipes at Pad Thai restaurant, where executive chef Khun Satra uses them as the essential ingredients for classic dishes such as tom yum goong (sour and spicy lemongrass shrimp soup). “My colleagues and I noticed an unused outdoor area alongside the guest rooms at the resort and started looking into plants that could be grown in the shade without the need for much space,” Satra said. “Herbs are essential in Thai cuisine and our guests enjoy fresh flavours so it made sense to grow our own.” The hotel, set back from Surin beach, is a favourite with visitors with its excellent cooking classes and authentic flavours, and is just down the road from one of Phuket’s wine bars, the Ninth Glass, which offers 160 labels, several by the glass, and also serves tapas-style food. “Most of the Thai dishes we serve at Pad Thai restaurant now

briefs

contain one or more fresh ingredients from the herb garden,” said Manathai’s food and beverage manager K. Udom. “We also use the mint in our Manathai Mojitos, which guests particularly enjoy at sunset by the pool.” Visit www.manathai.com/phuket.

CLIVE HARTLEY AWARDED NSW LEGEND OF THE VINE 2017 THE REES HOTEL QUEENSTOWN The Rees Hotel Queenstown and its landmark restaurant True South Dining Room have scooped the pool this year winning awards for excellence for Best NZ Hotel, Best Hotel Chef (Australia, NZ and South Pacific) Best PR for a Tourism Product and two international awards for its wine list. The Rees Hotel blends chic five star accommodations with all the comforts of home and the service and facilities of an elite international hotel. Situated on the absolute lakefront, The Rees’ terraced construction delivers complete privacy and showcases panoramic views overlooking Lake Wakatipu and The Remarkables Mountains in Queenstown, New Zealand. True South has an exclusive library of Bordeaux and Burgundy wines with vintages selected from many of the great houses. Wines from world-renown chateaux such as Romanee Conti, Chateau d'Yquem, Latour, Margaux, Mouton Rothschild and Lynch Bages nestle with some of the great wines of Central Otago, New Zealand, Australia and Italy in the professionally-managed, temperaturecontrolled wine cellar servicing the hotel and restaurant; Bordeau Wine Lounge. Mark Rose, The Rees Hotel Queenstown's General Manager, says these awards are important ongoing recognition of the effort put into building and maintaining a world-class cellar while confirming True South Dining Room as one of New Zealand's elite dining experiences. "To be recognised yet again by two of the most prominent and respected international reviewers for our cellar choices, and now additionally for the hotel itself and our marketing efforts, is an outstanding achievement and a great outcome for The Rees in 2017".

Wine Communicators of Australia (WCA) has announced this year’s winner of the NSW Legend of the Vine, Clive Hartley. A seasoned author, wine writer, sommelier, wine judge and professional wine educator, Clive Hartley has been a prominent figure in the Australian wine industry for more than twenty years. He was instrumental in the development of the wine education program at the Northern Sydney Institute, and in 2008 established The Sydney Wine Academy at Ryde College. “The Legend of the Vine Award aims to recognise individuals who’ve made an outstanding contribution to the Australian wine industry, and Clive is incredibly deserving of this honour,” said WCA National Chair, Angus Barnes. “His dedication to education - be that through his writing, the Sydney Wine Academy or his consultation work in the broader industry - has positioned him in high regard and Clive is seen as a mentor to many - from keen amateurs through to seasoned professionals.” Clive played an integral role in introducing the Wine and Spirit Education Trust program at The Sydney Wine Academy and continues to champion the WSET Diploma in Wine and Spirits throughout the industry. Clive is an honorary life member of the Australian Sommeliers Association and has successfully completed a number of projects consulting to government bodies on wine related curriculum in Australia. His book, the Australian Wine Guide is now in its sixth edition. The Legend of the Vine Award was first introduced in New South Wales in 2011, and has since extended to Victoria and South Australia, with annual awards issued in each state. The nominees from each state are nominated by the WCA Board and State Chapters, with the final winner determined by the WCA National Board. Clive is the seventh person to be awarded Legend of the Vine status in NSW. November/December 2017

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nzbriefs what’s happening in the NZ wine scene EMMA JENKINS MW

STATE OF THE NATION THE 2017 New Zealand Winegrowers annual report delivers a useful snapshot of the current state of the NZ wine industry alongside the past year’s successes and the best intentions for the coming one. NZ wine now comprises $NZ1.66 billion ($A1.52b) of exports, placing it as the country’s fifth largest goods exporter. This represents a 6 per cent ($NZ94 million, $A86m) increase on the previous year, largely driven by the US market’s seemingly insatiable appetite for NZ wine (which is now the third most valuable wine import behind France and Italy). China remains a relatively small export market but growth is tracking steadily upwards and most pleasingly for exporters faced with the stubbornly strong NZ dollar. The average price per litre exported to China is around two or three times the equivalent prices in NZ’s top five export markets. The average annual growth of NZ’s total wine exports over the past 20 years is 17 per cent and the country now exports nearly 90 per cent of its production. With the 2017 harvest of 396,000 tonnes some 9 per cent down on 2016, producers may soon find themselves with tanks and warehouses outstripped by demand.

SUSTAINABILITY IN ACTION THE annual report shows that 98 per cent of NZ’s vineyard area is now certiﬁed under the Sustainable Winegrowing New Zealand (SWNZ) initiative, which sets standards and accountability for vineyard and winery environmental practices over seven “pillars” - soil, water, energy, air, plant protection, people and business. Members submit detailed annual reports on their use of agrichemicals, water and energy among other markers, and can access ongoing support and resources for improving their sustainability efforts. Typically SWNZ represents a starting point in environmental and social responsibility for many producers with a diverse array of initiatives now in place, including solar and windpowered wineries, fully recyclable water systems, establishment 20

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of native bird and plant corridors, wetlands establishment and rehabilitation, and falcon habitat rehabilitation programs, as producers tailor their approach according to their abilities, philosophies and budgets. The benefits are clear - in 2016-17, some 92,000 cubic meters of waste was diverted from landfills as well as over 2500ha of land was set aside for biodiversity protection, enhancement or restoration. New Zealand Winegrowers is determined to establish NZ’s wine industry as a world leader in sustainability and to this end launched the Sustainable Winegrowing New Zealand Continuous Improvement (SWNZ CI) extension program, with a pilot program next year involving 50 voluntary members. SWNZ CI will set ambitious goals for each of the sustainability pillars - zero waste and support for members in selecting, aligning and achieving the goal that is most reflective of their particular ethos. SWNZ CI will be verified and certified, which members can use to bolster credentials in their various markets, establishing a point of competitive difference but ultimately also ensuring the wider SWNZ program remains robust and evolutionary.

COMING OF AGE SPARKLING wine is the traditional wine of choice for celebrations so Marlborough’s Hunter’s Wines should ﬁnd itself well-placed to mark the 20th anniversary of its methode traditionelle MiruMiru (Maori for “bubbles”). First released in 1997, MiruMiru’s 1995 vintage went on to win the James Rogers Memorial Trophy at the UK’s International Wine Challenge and has been racking up the medals ever since. Hunter’s is also part of the Marlborough Methode Society, a collaborative group formed by the region’s most dedicated producers to help raise the proﬁle of a wine style that is a small but rather impressive string in Marlborough’s bow.

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nzbriefs what’s happening in the NZ wine scene EMMA JENKINS MW

GIVING BACK TO THE COMMUNITY THE fundamental concept of the wine industry being an integral part of its wider community was the driver that in 1991 prompted local Hawke’s Bay winemakers Alan Limmer (then at Stonecroft), Kate Radburnd, of Pask Winery, and John Buck, of Te Mata Estate, to brainstorm an event that could both contribute in a definitive and ongoing manner to the community as well as promote Hawke’s Bay wine. The resulting Hawke’s Bay Wine Auction was duly established, with Cranford Hospice as its sole beneficiary. The auction has since raised over $3.7 million for the hospice, which has gone on to become Hawke’s Bay’s leading palliative care facility. The Hawke’s Bay Wine Auction itself is now the country’s oldest and most prestigious wine auction, the NZ equivalent of Burgundy’s legendary Hospices de Beaune. The 2016 auction was opened by then prime minister John Key, raising over $180,000 in two hours. This year the auction will be held November 10, 11 and 12, with 44 unique and diverse lots representing an impressive collaboration between local winemakers, restaurateurs and artists. Attendees will be able to bid on the likes of a quarter barrel of Trinity Hill’s Non-Vintage Touriga Port, the opportunity to blend their own chardonnay at Clearview Estate before retiring to a relaxed lunch, a private degustation dinner at Te Awa Winery Restaurant and the key artwork of the night, the thought-provoking Corten Steel sculpture, Aspect 1, by Ben Pearce. www.hawkesbaywineauction.co.nz

ORGANIC GROWTH FROM navigating some turbulent times across the previous decade, the annual report’s vineyard and winery statistics now detail a largely stable environment, with few significant changes to either producer numbers or vineyard and variety acreages. One trend apparent is the steady increase in organic production, with more than 60 wineries now fully certified as organic and a number of others in the conversion process. This is no boutique movement, with one of the country’s largest producers, family-owned Villa Maria Wines having 30 per cent of its company-owned vineyards certified, well on the way to the longer-term goal of 100 per cent certification. Research and innovation also received a boost from the NZ government with $12.5m committed towards the new Marlborough-based national grape and wine research facility, the New Zealand Winegrowers Research Centre. The intention is for the facility to become the national focal point for grape, wine and other industry-related research that delivers tangible benefits for the industry.

WATER INTO WINE GRAPEGROWERS will be keeping a close eye on the NZ Labour Party proposal of a royalty on commercial water use to assist with the costs of cleaning up the country’s more polluted waterways. At a suggested 2c per cubic litre (and 10c per cubic litre for those bottling water for commercial sale) based on the average bottle of wine needing around 650L of water during its production, the royalty could potentially add around 8c-16c a bottle depending on water source (some wineries recycle or collect rain water), a price hike that’s admittedly unlikely to have many consumers crying into their sauvignon blancs.

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Discover the Sensation

T h e f i ne s t b ub b l e s i n C h a m pagn e

europeanreport

WORDS SALLY EASTON MW

LOIRE WARMS TO A RED FUTURE

FRANCE’S Loire river is the longest river in France, rising in the Massif Central, ﬂowing in a northerly direction before making a left turn just north of Sancerre/Pouilly-Fume (at Orleans) then heading west to the Atlantic Ocean at Nantes, some 1000km later. In addition to its heritage of castles and royal monasteries, the valley is well famed for its fresh, sometimes fragrant, fruitful white wines, but more than half of Loire wine is not still white wine. OK, about 10 per cent is bubbly, but 45 per cent of wines are red and pink. In such a cool climate, this typically comes as a mildly, eyebrow-raising, surprising even, piece of information. There are some really good red wines from the Loire valley, indeed some 20 to 25 per cent of Loire wines are red. Cabernet franc is the major protagonist. Yes, there’s gamay; yes, there’s pinot noir (about 1500ha of each), but the Loire valley has more cabernet franc than Bordeaux about 15,000ha, compared to Bordeaux’s 13,000ha. (By way of comparison, Australia has around 600 ha). Cabernet franc is welldocumented as one parent, in cahoots with sauvignon blanc, of cabernet sauvignon. Cab franc is better suited to the cooler climate further north than Bordeaux because it ripens earlier than cabernet sauvignon. Indeed its mid-season ripening is part of the reason it’s in Bordeaux - as an insurance policy against late season deterioration of the weather before cabernet sauvignon has fully ripened. Classically the proﬁle is violet perfumed, with raspberries, graphite and pencil shavings; aromatic and crisp in a cool climate, though too cool and it risks herbaceousness rather than the more typical, characteristic green pepper notes. The most famed red wine appellations of the Loire valley are all based on cabernet franc: Chinon, Bourgeuil, St Nicolas de Bourgeuil and Saumur Champigny. They

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are all adjacent: Saumur-Champigny to the immediate south of Saumur town (home of Loire valley sparkling wine, in its kilometres of chill cellars carved into the tuffeau limestone), with the other three immediately east, stretching towards Tours. Bourgeuil and St. Nicolas de Bourgeuil (effectively an extension of the Bourgeuil appellation on its western edge) on the north side of the Loire river, both facing Chinon across the wide Loire ﬂoodplain.

This is certainly creating opportunities for more interesting and more consistent red wines from the Loire, with less extreme vintage variation and more readily achieved basic ripeness. At 2400 ha, Chinon is the biggest red wine appellation in the Loire. For the literarily-cultured, Chinon is inextricably linked with François Rabelais, the 16th century author of Gargantua and Pantagruel. To accentuate the connection, in 2016, the Chinon vineyard boundary was extended southwards a little to incorporate his birthplace, La Deviniere, which is now a museum to him, enabling the appellation to build even more strongly on its associations. In the extension process a modest 50ha was added to Chinon’s total. It is from here that Rabelais based the stories of Gargantua.

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It’s probably no coincidence that these cabernet franc appellations cluster together. It is a somewhat sheltered location that retains some mild Atlantic climatic influence, which helps with its ripening regime. Modesty of summer rainfall combined with typically warm summers gives the basis for good growing conditions. However considerable vintage variation this far north (in the northern hemisphere) also helps explain the diversity of wine style made in the valley, from sparkling, white, red, to fully lusciously sweet. The mildness of climate also helps explain why the region became such a wondrously chateaux-ed playground of historic noblemen. Changing climate is providing new opportunities for a resurgent interest in the red wines of the Loire. Joachim Lefaure, an oenology technician at consultancy firm CQFD Gustation delivered a masterclass on ripeness expression of red Loire grape varieties to explore the theme. By looking at four areas of production: climate change, physiological knowledge of vine, understanding of terroir, plus growing and winemaking practices, Lefaure said: “the goal is to guide wine producers to make choices.” By understanding the continuum of “factors of ripeness, the diversity of aromatic and of tannic expression, wines will express more freshness to more ripeness; wine structure becomes softer and rounder.” Lefaure’s masterclass highlighted the diversity of aromatic expression: at the cooler end, descriptors included herbal, black pepper, crunchy, freshness crisp tannin. At the warmer end - baked cherries, violet, plusher, softer body, with sweet rather than crisp-fresh fruits. And given the gentle climate, the wines remain modest in both body and alcohol, which fits well with some of the latest consumption trends.

For the immediate future, Lefaure said climate change means producers have more options “regarding maturity, which influences wine style. Now red wine producers are focusing more on aromatic and phenolic maturity” than the more usual acid/sugar balance that is common in very cool climates, and where white cultivars are mainly grown, notably in northern Germany. That bit of warming in cool/cold climates allows more focus on achieving maturity of colour and tannin in black grape varieties. This is certainly creating opportunities for more interesting and more consistent red wines from the Loire, with less extreme vintage variation and more readily achieved basic ripeness. In effect, Lefaure said it is getting easier to make good and excellent quality red wines in the Loire valley. This is also in evidence further east along the Loire river, in the more continental climate of the Central Vineyards, where Sancerre and Pouilly-Fumé are kings. Here pinot noir, which accounts for about 20 per cent of this vineyard area, is building up a little head of steam for making aromatic wines with increasing density and concentration of flavour and complexity. Vincent Pinard, in Bue, for example, is rapidly building his reputation for pinot noir. He explained his delicacy of approach for pinot noir: “we speak about infusion not extraction” though he keeps contact for up “to four weeks maceration, which is long for Sancerre”. He also uses some whole bunches which “adds more perfume, more wild fruits”. Good pinot noir may not be such a surprise - this far-eastern end of the Loire valley is closer to Burgundy’s Cote d’Or - about 150km crow-flying east from Sancerre - than it is to the cluster of cabernet franc appellations that are in the mid-Loire, roughly 200km crow-flying west from Sancerre.

Yorke Peninsula’s award winning vineyard

November/December 2017

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winetutor

WORDS CLIVE HARTLEY

A TRIP TO THE VINES - WHAT YOU NEED TO KNOW BEFOREHAND

VISITING a wine region is a way of increasing your enjoyment in a glass of wine and it is a case of what you get out of a visit is equal to the effort you put into organising the day or weekend. Before the visit call or email and make appointments to the producers that are not open; they can only say no. But if you are lucky to get an appointment be on time and don’t overstay your welcome, and send a thank-you email afterwards. Check out in guidebooks and on Google who is kicking ass in the region. Check out Winestate's reviews to see who's performing well. Roughly plan your day logically with a route in mind so you don’t end up running up and down country lanes all day. And don’t overstretch you appointment list. Sometimes I only manage three visits in a day. Pack a notebook and pen to record some notes. Walking into a cellar door armed with that opens doors and creates an air of mystery. You will get treated with more respect and perhaps that special wine might be offered. Arrive early in the region as it is better to visit producers when they are less crowded. When you arrive in the region call by the information centre to obtain a new map to check out who is open or closed and who has changed hands since your last visit. For your ﬁrst appointment of the day choose a cellar that offers coffee, you might as well kill two birds with one stone! Spit don’t swallow. It is the sign of someone serious about wine. Have a glass or two of wine over lunch instead. Do your research before you set off and 26

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ask intelligent questions. Know who the winemaker is and any awards the winery have recently achieved. Get to know your clones - especially chardonnay and pinot noir. The most common chardonnay clones are Mendoza, the French Dijon clones (76,78,95,96) and American Davis clones. Read up on what difference this makes to the wine and test out the theory when you are being a poured a sample.

Mentioning winemaking terms such as MLF, lees stirring and the wineries approach can start a discussion or make the cellar door assistant run for the winemaker. For instance, P58 is an old clone in the Mornington Peninsula which produces wines with a fuller palate and broad bean characters. While I10v5 clone offers more linear wines with higher acid levels with lemon citrus notes. Some clones are very rare like the Marble Hill clone at Mountadam and the Gin Gin clone used in Margaret River. There are some 45 different pinot noir clones. Popular clones in Australia include MV6, 114, 115 and the Dijon clones 667 and 777. The Pommard clone excited me

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recently during a visit to Yabby Lake in the Mornington Peninsula. In barrel it tasted of darker red fruits and lovely structure. Mentioning winemaking terms such as MLF, lees stirring and the wineries approach can start a discussion or make the cellar door assistant run for the winemaker! The use of large oak vessels such as foudres are really trendy at the moment. Ask them what type of oak they use and how long does the wine spend maturing. If they say eight-10 months it means they clean the barrels out ready for the next vintage. If the wine spends 15-18 months in oak, it shows the wine is being taken more seriously as this involves additional expense and purchase of barrels across two vintages. So expect to pay more for these wines. Inquire what wines are only for sale at cellar door. You might as well try and purchase something that is not for sale in your local bottle shop. Unfortunately some wines poured at cellar door can be cheaper in the shop due to aggressive discounting. I ﬁnd time and time again that the best wines in a range is the middle-priced ones. Larger producers who have a range of wines sit their wines in at different price points - level entry, mid-price and often premium/high price. Commonly the entry levels can be simple and the more expensive have over used oak inﬂuence. The middle-priced wine seems to retain freshness but also has a layer of complexity. It’s called a well-balanced wine and part of what quality assessment is based on. But don’t ignore the larger producers in the region. It is not all about small,

Awa r d W i n n i n g W i n e s

obscure cellar doors. They often have excellent cellar doors and work hard to offer something special and different for visitors. Check out any winery walks or tours. These tours can be excellent and give you an insight into the history of the area. We have some hallowed ground and what Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;d consider national historic treasures such as Tahbilk at Nagambie Lakes in Victoria and Tyrrells in the Hunter Valley that conduct tours, and I always take overseas visitors on these. Among other national treasures are both Seppelts and Bestâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s at Great Western, Seppeltsfield in Barossa Valley, and Yalumba and Henschke in the Eden Valley. In the Clare Valley Sevenhills is another special place. Staying in the Clare Valley another tourist option is to take a bike ride or walk along the 35km riesling trail set on the old rail track which is another unique way of exploring a region. On a modern front, a trip to the Yarra Valley is not complete without a visit to TarraWarra estate. The TarraWarra Museum of Art is outstanding with a constant line-up of top exhibitions, and what is better than to combine art with a glass of wine?

G r an d e u r W e l l i n g ton 201 Blewitt Springs Rd McLaren Flat SA 5171 Phone: 08 8383 0866 peter@gwellington.com.au

www.g r a n de u rwe l l i n g ton .com . au

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winetravel

WORDS ELISABETH KING

OM TREND - YOGA EMBRACES THE GOOD LIFE

YOGA is the fastest growing fitness activity in Australia, according to recent stats from Roy Morgan Research. What’s changed is that it’s no longer practiced primarily by women. One in 10 Millennial males aged 25 to 34 do yoga regularly or occasionally, reports the researcher. For stressed-out people of both sexes, just a few days of quiet reflection and body-stretching poses at a yoga retreat resets your mood and the vegetarian/organic diets act as a springboard to lifestyle changes. There’s no need to go cold turkey on your favourite tipple, either, as the workout and wine holiday trend has gained global traction. Not surprisingly, yoga and wine retreats have been popular in California’s Napa Valley for some time. But anyone torn between a wellness and foodie vacation need struggle with their conscience no longer at Castello di Potentino in Tuscany. The setting is unbeatable - a medieval castle in the region’s Conca d’Oro (Golden Basin), set amid textbook vineyards and olive groves. Apart from polishing your downward dog and lotus positions, you’ll head home with something unique. An official Wine and Spirit Education Trust (WSET) Level 1 wine certification. The retreat opened last year and is the brainchild of Emily O’Hare, the former head sommelier at London’s Michelinstarred River Cafe. Daily wine tastings and workshops are held between yoga sessions near the castle’s outdoor pool. Time to spare? Why not take part in one of the pasta-making classes. Every course at 28

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lunch or dinner is, of course, matched with local wines. Restoring inner balance has never been more enjoyable. Or why not trace your ancestry, drive the whisky trail and then relax and detox in the Scottish Highlands at the EcoYoga Scotland Centre at Inverliever Lodge, only a two-and-a-half hour drive from Glasgow. Yes, a river runs through this rustic getaway where you can bathe in hot and

Daily wine tastings and workshops are held between yoga sessions near the castle’s outdoor pool. cold running spring winter in a geodesic dome or a rugged gorge. The beds are made by local craftsmen, the mattresses are deep and there’s underﬂoor heating. A year-long calendar of yoga retreats caters for all levels of ability. Ashtanga experts Nick Loening and John Evans, who is also a master of the Alexander Technique which realigns the body after a lifetime of stress, will clean out any cobwebs. Healthy veggie food and old-fashioned Scottish porridge make a welcome change from the ubiquitous muesli. Centro Santillan on Spain’s Costa del Sol is one of Europe’s ﬁnest yoga and well-

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being centres, and a stay here is like living in a movie fantasy. An historic Andalusian farmhouse anchors the 50,000squ/m spread overlooking the Mediterranean. The two yoga studios are state-of-the-art and the Carlo Enzo sala with floor-toceiling windows boasting sea views offers surreal yoga and meditation sessions at sunrise and sunset. The cuisine rests on the paddock-to-plate principle and the eggs are laid by the property’s freerange chickens. Massages, hiking trails, golf and trips to the nearby buzzing town of Malaga ﬁll “off-duty” hours. The best wine bar in the town is Antigua Casa de Guardia, where the interior is ﬁlled with old wine barrels and regional wines are the speciality. India, the birthplace of yoga, is packed with retreats - luxury and basic. Yogamagic Eco Retreat in Goa is a stress-relieving bolthole that delivers both from eco-chic tent lodges to the Maharajah’s Suite in the main house. Sustainability is top-ofmind from solar heating to the use of local building materials and it’s hatha all the way from Vinyasa Flow to Kundalini. Adopting the warrior position isn’t compulsory but a customised program is recommended. Only 2km from Anjuna, hop in a taxi to relax in beach bars like the tented Guru Bar, Dali Bar which offers a decent wine list or the Shore Bar with great beach views. The world-famous Miraval Resort near Tucson in Arizona sets the gold standard for global wellness. In addition to classic yoga, there’s a roll-call of variations from

aerial yoga through core yoga, desert waves yoga and dream yoga. Everything is five-star but the activity programs of all sorts from horse whispering to desert tightrope walking make other retreats look as if they have taken their eye off the well-being ball. There’s not even a hint of going without from touring the kitchen and toasting the chef with expertlymade cocktails, chatting with local providore, Richard Starkey, or enjoying a biodynamic wine-tasting session. Paul and Tory von Bergen run the Billabong Retreat only 45 minutes by car from the Sydney CBD, near Richmond. For winelovers, it’s comforting to note that the nearest train station is called Vineyard. Deluxe clifftop cabins and treehouses are set amid textbook bushland. The food is superstar vegetarian and light years away from being hair shirt. Come for a day or seven for deeper yoga, mindful intelligence and stress management programs. It’s worth making a pilgrimage to the Macquarie Arms Hotel in nearby Windsor, at 202 years old it’s the oldest pub in Australia. Open fires in winter and an atmospheric beer garden in summer ramp up the historic pleasure. Apart from its beaches and laidback lifestyle, Byron Bay has built up a rep as a go-to destination for craft beer lovers. The Byron Bay Brewing Co serves up six of its beers on tap and you can watch the brewing process in action. For those keen to try experimental brews and limited releases from Stone & Wood, the popular

craft beer brand’s Byron Bay Brewery is open seven days a week but booking ahead is a must. Byron is also the heartland of yoga retreats in Australia. Noted teacher and author Jessie Chapman has been challenging people according to their yoga skills - novice to experienced - for over 16 years at her popular Radiance Retreat. She also organises an annual calendar of international yoga retreats in Bali, Thailand, France, Spain, Italy and New Zealand if you want to go further aﬁeld. Australian travellers have returned to Hawaii in droves. Lumeria, far from the madding Oahu crowd, will help you build mental and physical strength on your return home. Located in an historic homestead on Maui’s north shore, daily yoga classes at sunset on the lawn in the shadow of Haleakala Volcano forms the core of an edited list of activities designed to burn off tension and energy - ziplining, surfing, kayaking, hiking and whale-watching. Revitalising spa treatments using cr ystals help you to relax with an organic fruit juice on your own personal lanai in this luxury bolthole. An expertly curated wine list and cocktails for lunch and dinner seal the deal.

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winehistory

WORDS VALMAI HANKEL

ANDRE SIMON’S AUSTRALIAN WINE BOOK

THE publication in December 1966 of French wine and food oracle Andre Simon’s first, only, and long-awaited book on Australian wines, The wines, vineyards and vignerons of Australia, created much attention, among both the wine industry and the general public with an interest in the topic. It immediately sold well. One enthusiastic purchaser was Colin Gramp, leader of the Gramp family’s Orlando Winery in the Barossa Valley. He bought 60 copies to present to staff and associates. There had been no other book on Australian wine like it to that time. It provided both historical and up-to-date information in a readable, approachable style. Together with its attractive presentation, high-quality coloured and black-and-white photographic illustrations (most of which had not been published before), informative and charming maps and elegant design the book was universally praised. Like most of Simon’s books this is full of quotable lines. He begins with a foreword which includes some generalisations valid at the time such as “the big and bigger organisations are doing more and more of the planting of vineyards, producing the greater proportions of grapes, wines, spirits and their by-products. The small vigneron is by no means doomed: he may and he will, we all hope, continue to tend his vineyards as all good vineyards must be tended, with the loving care that is the only truly intelligent care. (Simon must have been remembering the sentiments of Australia’s first wine grower and author of our first wine book, James Busby, when he typed those words.) The big firms will be only too happy to buy his grapes at a rewarding price because his grapes will be better than those of their mammoth vineyards mechanically cultivated.” He continued: “The little man will gradually disappear as a winemaker and the big

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ﬁrms will use the grapes they buy from him to make wine which may not be any better than the little man made - when he was lucky - but they will make wine that will be much more consistently safe and sound.” Simon would be surprised at the existence today of so many successful small winemakers. He mused “the world is made of all sorts and there are all sorts of wines for them all. There is no reason why any of the good wines which are better known than others should be jealous of other good wines not so well known as they are themselves; there can never

The small vigneron is by no means doomed: he may and he will, we all hope, continue to tend his vineyards as all good vineyards must be tended, with the loving care that is the only truly intelligent care. be too many good wines in the world any more than there will ever be too many good people.” Simon, in his typical homespun philosophy style wrote: “Good wines, like all good people, must have a personality of their own: that is, the characteristics which they owe to the land of their birth, its soil and climate, and also to the care and training of their nursery days.” The book has several parts: Part 1 The Vineyards (34 pages), Part 2 The Wines (17 pages), Part 3 The Vignerons (176 pages) are

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followed by seven appendixes, a glossary of wine tasting terms, a bibliography and an index. There is a great deal of historical information - some might say too much (but not I), including, for example, details of grape varieties planted, when, where and by whom. Over 50 years later Simon’s three parts have rarely been surpassed as accurate summaries of the wine growing situation in Australia from its earliest days to the mid-1960s. He doesn’t mince words if he believes they are called for. For instance, his opening sentence of The Vineyards is provocative: “The vineyards of Australia may be divided into two groups, the quality group and the quantity group”. He explains: “The quality group consists of the classic varieties, the ‘shy bearers’, while the quantity group are the ‘free bearers’,” which he considered to be “wines for the thirsty and for the distillery, not for the connoisseur”. But he did acknowledge that “very recent developments in Australia suggest that one must not be too dogmatic about ‘quality’ and ‘quantity’ because there has recently been a notable increase in the plantings of the classic varieties of grapes, including the ‘shy bearers’, in what have always been regarded as ‘quantity’ areas: that is, the irrigation areas; and, as a result of the newest soil treatments and improved vine husbandry generally, the classic varieties have shown such a leap in yields that they can be considered to have entered the ‘quantity’ group; yet, Australian wine men say, they have still retained much of their quality”. The largest section is The Vignerons, in which Simon gives sketches of the characters, some well-known, others less so, all of whom have contributed to the industry over the years, and some of whom Simon met during his visit to Australia. Queensland (Romavilla) is brieﬂy mentioned, but the book is too early for Tasmania.

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VICTORIAâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S ALPINE VALLEYS REGION IS CAPITALISING ON ITS COOL CLIMATE TO PRODUCE WINES WITH A DISTINCTLY EUROPEAN FLAVOUR. Top: Picnic overlooking Feathertop vineyards. Middle: Kel and Janelle Boynton from Feathertop. Above: Exterior gates at Feathertop winery. Page 33: Alfresco lunch at Feathertop winery.

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CLIMATE DELIVERS A

COOL FUTURE JENI PORT THE dilemma faced by North East Victorian winemakers in the 1990s as they pondered an official name for their wine region was obvious. While the area had long been recognised as the Ovens Valley among wine drinkers, upon reﬂection it was probably not the most appropriate title for an emerging region wishing to be noticed for its cool-climate winemaking. A better fit was needed and so the more geographicallycorrect Alpine Valleys was born. “What makes these valleys different is they run parallel to each other with large mountains in between,” says leading Australian viticulturist Mark Walpole, who lives and grows grapes in the region, and who was responsible for drawing up the region’s geographical boundaries. Mount Feathertop, Mount Bogong, Mount Hotham and Mount Beauty run north to south with altitudes reaching 1922m, and in winter the valleys become a snow lover’s playground. Indeed, mountains are the region’s defining feature whether it’s to do with skiing or winegrowing. “You deﬁnitely get a cooler-climate style of wine,” adds Walpole, a master of the understatement.

Modern day Alpine Valleys wine pioneer Kel Boynton at Boynton’s Feathertop Wines says he fell for the region while studying winemaking at Roseworthy College in the mid-1980s. “It always came out strongly as a really good fit between grape and climate,” he says. His vineyard was founded in 1987 and in those early days it was shiraz and cabernet sauvignon that made his reputation. Today, while both red grapes continue to prosper, it’s a slightly more European accent that flourishes at Boynton’s, with wines such as fiano, vermentino, fruilano, savagnin, nebbiolo and sangiovese. In part it’s to do with the strong Italian-Australian winegrowing history in the area and in the neighbouring King Valley, present since the 1970s. As one producer says: “You come to this region and you get immersed in the Italian culture.” The rise of alternative varieties is also connected to the major viticultural re-adjustment that followed the catastrophic bushfire summer of 2003. Nearly 90 fires were started by lightning in the north-east of Victoria on January 8, eight were unable to be contained. The Eastern Victoria Alpine Fire, as it came to be named, swept across the region and left smoke hanging in November/December 2017

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The rise of alternative varieties is also connected to the major viticultural readjustment that followed WKH FDWDVWURSKLF EXVKÀUH summer of 2003.

Top: Feathertop vineyards. Opposite Page top: Gapsted vineyards. Opposite Page left: Gapsted Wines cellar door. Opposite Page right: Matt Fawcett CEO and Chief Winemaker of Gapsted vineyards.

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the air and floating over vineyards - and landing on the skins of grapes - for 30 days. Financial losses to growers due to smoke tainted wines were significant. The devastating event led to winemakers reviewing what grapes they were growing and how they were growing them. Grapes that ripened earlier and were tolerant to drought made good sense. Cue Mediterranean varieties. So, what works best? The grape of the moment has to be prosecco, Italy’s answer to traditional sparkling wines such as champagne. Informality is the grape’s credo, the style isn’t complicated and the flavours can often remind drinkers of a particularly zesty, lemon sherbet. While prosecco was first planted in nearby King Valley, the grape is showing exciting promise in the Alpine Valleys with three producers so far on board. They give it time on lees and keep the style dry which results in a gentle complexity and plenty of pear, honeysuckle and citrus fun. It’s early days for vermentino in the valleys but the white grape from Sardinia and Liguria in Italy does look most encouraging in its new home. “I was looking for a lighter style of white wine to make and I really enjoyed the texture of vermentino,” says winemaker Daniel Balzer, of Willem Kurt Wines, which is based in Beechworth and sources

fruit in from the Alpine Valleys. “It’s the texture and that sort of savouriness that vermentino gets that really attracted me to it.” Balzer picks the fruit at a reasonably low sugar reading (12 baume) to emphasise the grape’s citrussy zestiness. Half of it is left on its skins for 24 hours which releases an attractive ginger character and texture, and then it’s a mix of stainless steel and barrel for fermentation. “Barrel fermentation adds a bit more body, a bit more interest, a bit of complexity but it’s still a refreshing wine.” The fiano grape is a step up in poise and character. It’s definitely one to watch. “In Italy, fiano grows above Naples where it’s quite wet,” says Walpole, who advises Alpine Valleys producers on the suitability of grapes to their region. “And here we would have one of the highest rainfalls in the country. We had 2m of rain last year at Porepunkah.” So, there’s a fit in climate and there’s also a fit in style, with a plush, textural, spiciness coming through in Alpine Valleys fiano. The valleys’ strength in white wines lies in a climate where acidity accumulates naturally in grapes on the vine, negating the need for acid adjustment during winemaking. In reds, that perky acidity helps alternative grapes such as tempranillo have the inside running when it comes to clarity of structure. The Spanish grape with the big personality looks

smart in the valleys environment and while it’s early days, it’s yet another one to watch, especially for its potentially exciting ability to age well. Time will tell. And then there’s durif. It’s wandered away from its home in Rutherglen and found a very warm welcome at Gapsted Wines. In fact, it grows within ready eyesight of Gapsted CEO Matt Fawcett, who is a big fan. In its new, cooler setting the grape, a cross between shiraz and peloursin, requires a fair bit of work in the vineyard to keep its rich colour but the results are there. “The wine is rich and elegant,” explains Fawcett. “It’s a bit more subdued than some, more finer, and it’s fitted in very well here. It is a lovely perfumed variety with nice aromatics.” Pinot noir is grown in the area and while it’s mostly for sparkling wine production, at least one producer is planning on a big future for the Burgundy grape as a table wine. Kel Boynton has planted seven clones of pinot, all boasting a hallmark quality he loves to see in the grape - black cherry. And from next year he plans on releasing a number of single vineyard pinots. “There’s no reason pinot can’t do well here,” he states ﬁrmly. In fact, there is no reason a large number of grape varieties can’t do well in the Alpine Valleys. No reason at all. November/December 2017

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50 SHADES OF ROSE! With the long, warm days of summer practically upon us, rosé

In order to help you make your choice, here is a quick guide:

is once again the drink of choice. French Syrah/Shiraz: Everyone is looking for that perfect refreshing drop to take the edge off the heat and what better way to do so than with the quality that only French rosé can bring.

These rosés usually have deeper colours of ruby and notes of white pepper, green olive, strawberry, cherry and peach skin. They tend to be more on the bolder end of the spectrum and

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French wines but with the ease of varietal labelling so you’re

slightly warmed before drinking.

sure to hit a winner the first time around. With VIN DE FRANCE rosés, diversity is the name of the game.

French Cinsault:

Thanks to the wonderfully wide range of grape varieties used,

Subtle and distinctively fruity, Cinsault produces a luminous

there’s a vast style spectrum, from big and bold to fresh and

rosé. This wine embodies the atmosphere and warm light

fruity. These playful wines display a multitude of hues, from

of the South of France. Its subtle charm evokes magical

brilliant ruby red to the palest of pinks. Flavour-wise, notes of

moments, whether lounging on a yacht taking to the sea,

red fruit, flowers, citrus and melon are often complemented by

or enjoying a meal overlooking the beautiful Mediterranean.

a crisp, dry finish that leaves your mouth watering for more.

Fruity, gooseberry/pomegranate aromas and a smooth, lively personality are the essence of Cinsault, and are expertly expressed through VIN DE FRANCE wines.

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Besserat de Bellefon

The Finest Bubbles in Champagne Make me a Champagne that is VXIÂ˝FLHQWO\ VPRRWK WR DFFRPSDQ\ DQ HQWLUH PHDO DQG , ZLOO RUGHU ERWWOHV LQVWHDG RI $QG D OHJHQG ZDV ERUQ

Family Baijot took over management of the legendary Champagne Besserat de Bellefon in 2006. Philippe Baijot states, â&#x20AC;&#x153;We are duty-bound, indeed it is our calling, to pursue the work accomplished by the House since 1843.â&#x20AC;? He brings profound knowledge of the Champagne and the insight needed to carry this extraordinary champagne house into the future. Godefroy Baijot, his son, has since joined his father as export director and brand ambassador. Besserat de Bellefon was founded in AĂż in 1843 by Edmond Besserat from Hautvillers. The domain comprises 35 vineyard hectares, mainly in premier cru and grand cru sites. Half of the area is now cultivated according to organic and biodynamic regulations.

Above photo: CĂŠdric ThiĂŠbault - winemaker.

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7KH JDVWURQRPLF VHQVDWLRQ In 1930 Victor Besserat took up the challenge laid down by the director of the distinguished Parisian restaurant “La Samaritaine de Luxe”. This date marked the birth of the legendary “Cuvée Des Moines” champagnes, an exceedingly delicate, gently sparkling style speciﬁcally designed to accompany the most outstanding of ﬁne dining experiences. Generation after generation Besserat de Bellefon has supplied the greatest hotels, restaurants and wine merchants of the world. Today, Besserat de Bellefon champagnes are listed in more than two hundred Michelin-star restaurants.

7KH ½QHVW PRXVVH The Besserat de Bellefon house style is based on its unique crafting process, which results in bubbles that are 30% ﬁner than those of traditional champagnes. To retain purity and freshness, malolactic fermentation is not practiced. Besserat de Bellefon uses less liqueur de tirage and the ensuing secondary fermentation is more delicate. The wines are gentler, with Above photo: Philippe and Godefroy Baijot.

only 4,5 bar as opposed to 6 bar pressure. Deep, cool cellars enable a smooth and lingering mousse to develop. Every nonvintage Besserat de Bellefon cuvée is left to rest in the cellar for a minimum of ﬁve years on the yeast; vintage cuvées remain there for a minimum of ten years – far longer than the minimum appellation requirements. Today, the Baijot family is focused on achieving the link between tradition and modernity, between the continuation of the work begun more than a century ago and the will of innovation. In 2016, two Grand Crus have been added to the range, a Blanc de Blancs and a Blanc de Noirs. They are unique in their category and are sure to please connoisseurs around the world.

Available at Festival City Wines: www.festivalcitywines.com.au/ Above photo: Château Bellefon in Epernay.

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Email: info@besseratdebellefon.com Web: www.besseratdebellefon.com 22 rue Maurice Cerveaux 51200 EPERNAY - FRANCE

November/December 2017

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GOING THE DISTANCE Deciding to stay rather than sell the family farm has paid off for a winemaking mother and daughter. MIKE ZEKULICH ANYONE who could buy 60ha of prime

believed would produce the ﬁne grapes

a similar age in the area were more likely

grazing country in the midst of productive

they needed for premium winemaking.

to be dressing dolls. The ﬁrst vines were

apple growing land for $30,000 would

And so it proved to be - bearing the label

planted in 1977 and today - 40 years on -

reckon they had a bargain. OK, so it was

Galafrey, taken from “gala,” French for

Galafrey boosts a sound line-up of styles to

1976 and land prices were a lot different in

festivities, while “frey” derives from a Nordic

please most palates. Over its four decades,

those days. As well, the property’s location

god of happiness - even though the agony

the philosophy has not changed. Ian Tyrer

- in the heart of Western Australia’s Great

of effort and increasing costs were constant

once told me: “We have the ﬂavour so you

Southern at Mt Barker - was a long way

companions. After Ian’s death, wife and

can build everything else around it. It is

from the much more fancied Margaret River

daughter Kim battled with the decision of

our foundation.” Even with her grounding

region, for ﬁne wine production. But the

what they should do - sell up and move on

in the business, Kim admits it was a huge

new owners of the land which had been

or stay - a difﬁcult choice given the times of

learning curve taking over as winemaker in

on the market for eight years - (the late)

tough industry competition and indifferent

2011, aged 25. “I did not want to be the one

Ian Tyrer and his wife Linda - were excited

returns. But the ghost of bearded, belly

to loose the family farm,” she said. Now 39

young pioneers of the region, happy to

bubbling Ian Tyrer hung everywhere in the

and mother of two, Kim helps her mother

take up the grape and wine challenge.

property - too powerful for wife and daughter

run the wine business whenever there

This was despite the daunting prospect

to ignore. Besides Kim, from a very early

is time from winemaking, while husband

of what lay ahead, travelling thousands of

age, had followed her father throughout

Nigel Rowe manages the unirrigated

kilometres from Perth at every opportunity

the vineyard and winery, intrigued by so

vineyard beginning the journey towards

to establish a vineyard which they ﬁrmly

many aspects of winemaking while girls of

traditional wine styles that can live long

Above photo: Viticulturist at work with Nigel Rowe.

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November/December 2017

Above photo: Kim and Linda Tyrer of Galafrey Wines.

periods, while producing reserve wines as

over the years, the Tyrers have persisted

Australia. “There is a strong link between

the opportunity arises. For good measure

because “it is a serious really nice drink

art and winemaking,” she said. “There are

Kim is actively involved in industry affairs,

for the right occasion and it goes well with

so many important decisions to be made

becoming president of the Mt Barker Wine

food”. Riesling is the label’s leading wine

whether you start with a blank canvas or a

Producers’ Association at a time of serious

but cabernet could be the tortoise in the

tonne of grapes fresh from the vine.” Among

district decline with cellar door numbers

contest. Today, plantings have extended

Galafrey’s eight wines is a bubbly from

having dropped in the last 15 years from

to 13ha but the once hoped for annual

riesling - a ﬁrst for the region according to

28 to 6. Only four of the six have full time

vintage of some 200 tonnes has come

the ladies. “Galafrey has ended up as part

cellar door facilities but there are still many

down signiﬁcantly. Ian died in 2003, aged

of the family but that’s what family wineries

grape growers in the region whose fruit is

56. It resulted in Kim having to give up

are all about really,” said Linda, “a bit like an

valued by winemakers in other parts of WA.

a promising seven-year career in visual

old faithful dog.” Third-generation, seven-

She also enjoys respect in her role as an

arts though the family, including Ian, were

year-old Jack also gets into grape picking

industry judge. Somewhat surprisingly, the

able to celebrate her skills with labels she

as well as helping at crushing time and even

most popular Galafrey wine at cellar door

produced for a number of wines. At the

tasting before alcohol becomes part of the

is the delicate tropically ﬂavoursome muller

age of 17 and still at high school one of her

wine’s progress. Once a cellar door visitor

thurgau - a cross of riesling and sylvaner

paintings - a portrait of a winemaker, in this

asked him: “What you got there Jack?” as

made at Geisenheim, Germany, in 1882 by

case her father - was hung in the WA Art

the youngster was about to take a sample

Dr Muller, a Swiss from Thurgau. While the

Gallery. Such were her achievements that

sip. “Grape juice?” Came the reply from

variety’s use in Australia has been limited

she was chosen on a regional panel for Arts

Jack: “cabernet sauvignon”.

There are so many

important decisions to be made whether

you start with a blank canvas or a tonne of grapes fresh from the vine.

Above photo: Ian and Linda Tyrer.

Above photo: Ian Tyrer.

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melbournegrapevine HILARY McNEVIN

WHILE Melbourne moved through another winter - a little milder than winters past - we saw a few old hands (read: longtime professionals) in the hospitality business rebuild, reopen and extend their businesses and continue to feed a hungry Victorian audience. Martin Pirc, the man behind Punch Lane, the 25-year-old CBD wine bar and restaurant, opened a luxurious basement bar called Juliet. Situated almost next door to Punch Lane, Juliet is a homage to women in the food and wine industry as well as a nod to Melbourne history. “The hospitality industry is one where women often do not receive the recognition they deserve,” says Pirc. “Our goal is to showcase their hard work and evolve our menu over time so those who visit Juliet will get to sample and learn about an array of local and international femalecreated products and, if they get their timing right, maybe even meet the maker.” Where does the history comes in? Juliet is named after a chequered time in Melbourne’s past. In the1870s, Romeo Lane and Juliet Terrace were notorious for being one of Melbourne’s ﬁrst red light districts, home to ladies and men of the night. Both streets have been renamed - Crossley and Liverpool streets - and Juliet, the bar, is a way of keeping

Melbourne’s inner-city history alive. To add to the feminine elements of the venue, there are cool pink touches bordering the bar, chandeliers, hand-blown glass pieces and warm woods to give comfort to the space. Guests can linger by the fireplace or sink into Danish chairs and lounges. The menu, by chef Gabriel Alonso, focuses on sharing and is designed to complement the drinks offering. The series of small plates with big flavours includes South Australian pan-fried sardines with a herbed remoulade; vitello tonnato with anchovies, fermented black garlic, quail eggs and olives; caciocavallo and parmesan stuffed zucchinis finished with truffle pecorino. Basement, 37-41 Little Bourke St, Melbourne; phone (03) 9639 4944. Much-loved and respected chef Paul Wilson opened Wilson & Market to much acclaim. The British chef - who has called Australia home for over 20 years, has gained a solid following after heading up Radii in the early ’90s and The Botanical in the ’00s - opened a multi-faceted business including bar, cafe and restaurant in the Prahran Market in the inner south-east. The chef has spent the last 10 years or so with a focus on the food of South America and Mexico but his classic French training has seen him lured back to creating seasonal, Euro-structured dishes - OK, there’s still some Latino influences through breakfast, lunch and dinner. Wilson is renowned for his punchy dishes and his ability to extract the boldest, big flavours out of quality produce and he’s remained consistent with this at Wilson & Market. You’ll find Kohlrabi, pear and radicchio salad with black tahini next to whiting carpaccio with Angelica Farm fennel, native capers and horseradish or Spanner crab seaweed crepe with celeriac. The wood barbecue is searing fresh seafood that changes daily and the rotisserie cranks all day with Milawa wood-red Ross chicken (half or whole), Milking Yard Farm Sommerlad chicken and a selection of beef, including Cape Grim rib-eye, celeriac and mustard remoulade, and O’Connor’s dry-aged rump

of beef. There is something for everyone at Wilson & Market and a savvy wine selection at great prices. The generosity in boundless - take a group of friends - a serving for one feeds two or three! 163-185 Commercial Rd, South Yarra; phone (03) 9804 7530. After a refit that began in mid-August, the cafe formerly known as Green Park is now Park Street with a new look, new menu and (some) new owners. Longtime co-owner and chef Jesse Gerner has brought partners from his other businesses - chef Russell Hall (Anada), chef Andrew Fisk (Bomba, Samuel Pepys), Kelly O’Loghlen (Bomba, Samuel Pepys) and Shane Barrett (Bomba, Samuel Pepys, Nomada) into the fold in Carlton North. Utilising Park Street’s kitchen garden and a solid stable of local suppliers, Hall, Fisk and Gerner have designed breakfast, lunch and dinner menus that are built to feed and maintain the strong local and family audience who love this location. Breakfast and lunch menus include dishes like spanner crab omelette with fermented chilli and herbs, a waffle filled with PX-braised beef cheek and cavolo nero alongside classic bacon, eggs, granolas and sides. Lunchtime sees sturdy sandwiches, pastas and pies as well as grab-and-go options such as a roast chicken and slaw roll or a zucchini and corn fritter wrap with chilli jam. Park Street has shifted the dinner focus to introduce a pasta and salads bar five nights a week along with a menu of Cicchetti; think just-shucked oysters, charcuterie and torn burrata with cherry tomato and basil crostini, supporting a changing selection of pastas that include linguine with clams and fusilli with wilted greens. 815 Nicholson St, Carlton North; phone (03) 9380 5499.

Top left: Park Street restaurant interior. Above: Food and drink from Park Street Left: Juliet restaurant interior and food from Juliet.

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hong konggrapevine LUCY JENKINS

AROUND this time of year when Hong Kong appreciably drops a few degrees and you can walk a few blocks without having to dive into an air conditioned sanctum, thoughts of where to get proper “winter” comfort food spring to mind. Crusty meaty pies, Sunday roasts, hearty ragu, tender juicy steak… Well look no further as Mr Wolf, the latest concept from Castelo Concepts has emerged, keen eyed, limber and waiting for Hong Kong’s hungry residents to pour in through its welcoming doors. Brit chef Jamie Draper helms the kitchen and arrives with some fanfare as he was most recently with the Roux father and son team as head chef of the Langham Hotel’s Landau restaurant in London. Expect solid portions and well-executed use of fresh ingredients - and you can’t get fresher than a whole suckling pig from the nearby wet market. Several dishes give a big bear hug of appreciation towards Draper’s classic British gastropub roots in the form of pork belly and chicken liver terrine, and Mr Wolf’s signature Cottage Pie, but then he changes the game with nods towards warmer climes, with his incredible Morton Bay bug salad and soft shell crab with sriracha mayo. With Draper’s attention to detail, a buzzing terrace and a formidable wine list, Mr Wolf has truly emerged as leader of the pack. 5/F Crawford House, 70 Queens Rd, Central; phone +852 2526 0838. Mention the Four Seasons and expect exclamations involving the French cheese

cellar and its new, much-coveted six-seater chef’s table at its flagship two-Michelin star restaurant Caprice. The Four Seasons’ dining experience has been taken up a notch with the arrival of Guillaume Galliot from the Tasting Room in Macau’s ritzy City of Dreams. Determined to bring elements of his beloved home of the Loire Valley, Guillaume has introduced an explosion of new flavours to Caprice, including roast pigeon with confit legs, beetroot and port wine sauce. There are nods towards traditional French fare - beef tartare, for example, but even that comes jazzed up with caviar and gold leaf, and also the winning combination of lobster and tomato swirled in tomato water and vanilla oil. Despite all the fancy touches there is one hark back to Guillaume’s spell in Singapore’s Raffles Hotel (as the youngest sous chef ever to be planted there) with his prized king crab laksa with confit egg and lime. Just make sure you save room for the cheese board. Four Seasons, 8 Finance St, Central; phone + 852 3196 8888.

One thing Hong Kong is known for is having elegant restaurants sandwiched in shopping malls - principally because Hong Kongers love nothing better than to eat and shop. Pacific Place in Admiralty has seen a huge upswing in its dining options over the last year or so and Operetta was one of the first on the scene. With a large bar area offering an excellent happy hour (buy one get one half price between 5pm-8pm daily), Operetta brings an Italian flair to a mall where high-end lifestyle brands jostle with high-end restaurants. Enter chef Luca de Berardinis. Raised on a farm in Abruzzo and trained at some of Italy’s leading Michelinstarred restaurants - Ristorante Perbellini, Ristorante La Bastiglia and Ristorante San Domenico - Luca arrived in Hong Kong in 2012 where he found his metier in Il Milione and the Conrad’s Nicholini’s. For Operetta, he has downplayed culinary extravagance and has chosen to use only seasonal, fresh ingredients sourced from Italy, served imaginatively and without pretension. Staying true to Italy’s love of antipasti, Luca serves delights such as scallops saltimbocca - stuffed with ham and mozzarella - Australian wagyu beef carpaccio and hand-chopped Canadian butter shrimp tartare with zucchini and tomatoes. For the main event, save room also for Luca’s lamb ragout with morels and kale, monkfish tail wrapped in pancetta plus his fiery Nduja Diavola pizza with spicy sausage and salame. As a place for a smart, client-impressing business lunch, after-work dinner or a weekend feast, Operetta is a good value and palatepleasing slice of Italy in the heart of the business district. Shop 112, Pacific Place, 88 Queensway, Admiralty; phone +852 2115 8080. Top: Four Seasons, Alaskan King Crab. Left: Beef Carpaccio from Operatta.

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ORGANIZED BY

GRAND TASTING FINEST ITALIAN WINES Verona, 14 April 2018

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THE BOOK

adelaidegrapevine NIGEL HOPKINS

AFTER a veritable roundabout of restaurants, cooking multiple styles of food in several countries, Thai chef Nu Suandokmai has gone right back to his roots - back to the sort of cooking his mother taught him at the family farm at Ayutthaya, the former Siamese capital 80km north of Bangkok. His re-emergence with his own restaurant, Lantern by Nu, has been welcomed not only those who fondly remember his original restaurant, Nu Thai, which he opened with wife Jane in 2000, but anyone who craves the sort of authentic cooking most commonly found in Thai street markets. You could do worse than stick to the “street bites” tapas-style menu sitting at high tables ﬂanked by the large open kitchen at one end and a bar at the other, with an icy Singha or Chang Lager to go with snacks such as miang khum, betel leaves with prawn, caramelised coconut, peanut and lime; or sliced house-made northern Thai sausages with shards of ginger, fresh coriander and green chilli wrapped in cos lettuce. The green papaya salad, som tum thai, is pure street food - lots of chilli, fresh lime, palm sugar, snake beans and chunks of heirloom tomato, a dish with real zing. So, too, the pad thai, a generous plate of fresh rice noodles packed with chicken, tofu, sprouts, tamarind and blended dried shrimp. There’s a bit of restaurant theatre with jungle curry served in a clay pot kept warm over glowing charcoal, again a generous dish with a red curry base, lots of heat from strands of green peppercorn, with pickled wild ginger, cracked rice and currently with local whiting.

Boat noodle soup is probably Thailand’s most famous noodle soup and, again, as street food as it comes. It’s based on beef stock rendered down over two days, seasoned with star anise and cinnamon, containing pork balls, lots of beefy bits, thickened a little with pig’s blood, topped with crunchy pork crackling and served with condiments, including fish sauce, sugar, dried chilli and pickled chilli. Lantern by Nu, 120 Selby St, Adelaide. Open for brunch Saturday and Sunday, lunch and dinner Wednesday to Sunday; phone (08) 7078 3559. Better known as a wine bar with a multi award-winning wine list created by owner Paola Coro, after 15 years The Apothecary 1878 has well earned its reputation for having the best medicine in town. But The Apothecary also continues to build its reputation as a restaurant with a range of warmly furnished dining spaces spread over several floors, from rustic, brick-lined cellar to snug mezzanine and intimate ground floor “drink dispensary”. It’s here that gorgeous mahogany pharmacy cabinets, originally from London and dating from 1878 - hence the name - have been restored and line the walls. Thonet chairs, solid marble tables, chaise lounges and warm velvets and chandeliers complete the European bar experience. Recently appointed head chef Mirco Ruthoff is continuing the tradition set by his talented predecessors with contemporary, wine-friendly dishes. But the savvy way to

eat here is to order from the range of smaller dishes and ask for them each to be paired with 75ml or even smaller serves of wine. Owner Paola Coro enjoys any opportunity to lead her customers through a procession of tastes and flavours, choosing wines to go with dishes such as such as mustard and horseradish fish croquettes with romesco sauce to start, chicken roulade with leek, chestnut and parsley, or an exemplary beef tartare with cured egg yolk and caper leaves. Main courses include braised beef cheek with soffritto and salsa verde, or sliced strip loin with pickled mushroom, burnt onion and tarragon. You may be tempted by the desserts but the extensive cheese and chocolate menus are the more discerning choice. The Apothecary 1878, 118 Hindley St, Adelaide. Open for dinner daily; phone (08) 8212 9099. Convivial outdoor dining spaces are always at a premium in the CBD but for al fresco summer dining Cos, now owned by wine aficionado Jason Goodridge, is hard to beat. Its heritage-listed Victorian building has a light and breezy style, with polished floors and windows opening to the street providing a very pleasant restaurant space. Chef Ollie Morris provides perfect al fresco fare from Eyre Peninsula oysters through entrees such as hand-cut eye fillet tartare or seared Hokkaido scallops, to main courses such as twice-baked cheddar souffle with a waldorf salad or Goolwa cockles with squid ink spaghetti. Cos remains one of Adelaide’s safest refuges for anyone in need of a properly aged and accurately cooked steak - choose from a 250g grass-fed Angus eye fillet to a 400g grass-fed Cape Grimm sirloin. Not surprisingly the wine list more than keeps pace with the food. Goodridge, who has a parallel life as a software developer, is also a wine collector who travels far and wide in building a list containing at least 60 wines at any time, mostly from South Australia and mostly from small, boutique producers and often at very good prices. Cos, 17 Leigh St, Adelaide. Open for lunch Monday to Friday, dinner Monday to Saturday; phone (08) 8231 7611. Top: Lantern by Nu restaurant interior. Left: The Apothecary 1878 interior.

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sydneygrapevine ELISABETH KING

DUBLIN-native Colin Fassnidge redefined Sydney pub dining in the 10 years he presided over the kitchen at the Four in Hand in Paddington. His nose-to-tail philosophy produced memorable dishes such as braised beef brisket with licorice sauce and smoked potato puree. In the first half of 2016, new owners The Public House Management Group teamed with Guillaume Brahimi, who needs no introduction to the city’s lovers of fine food, to create gastro pub at its best. Head chef Darrell Felstead actually manned the stoves and the new menu hopped from the fairly simple - snapper in parsley sauce with mussels - to entrees and mains that were a bit too intricate for a pop-in meal. No matter how expensive the surrounding houses are, the Four in Hand is a neighbourhood pub, albeit a heritage-listed one. If the old saying is true - millionaires love baked apples - then the re-positioning of the venue as The Grill at The Four and a makeover of the interior and menu is more on the local money than a fine dining outpost was ever going to be. With quilted leather panelling, charcoal grey seating and a deep navy carpet, courtesy of designer Amandine Odouard, the re-jigged dining room was packed when we came in from the cold. Executive chef John Collins (exthe Royal) has based the menu on fire, or more accurately a grill imported from Brazil. There’s only one standard for the steaks on offer - super-premium - from the New York strip loin 300g Riverina black angus to the Tomahawk 1.2kg grass-fed pinnacle beef - a hefty serving to share, of course. You then select from nine sauces and compound butters, including chimmichurri and smoked miso butter, to enhance the meat lover’s version of heaven-on-a-plate. But if you are not in the mood for beef, the most expensive dish on the menu is live rock lobster with garlic and lemon at $220 or try the more reasonably priced options such as wild barramundi fillet, lamb rack from Flinders

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Island and Barossa chicken breast. Again, choose from the sauces and butters to liven up the succulence. Oysters and patés or parfaits are having a major moment on Sydney menus for good reason - they are simply great. We ordered the rock oysters with mignonette dressing and the duck liver parfait with pear and sourdough bread to kickstart dinner, but the linguine with spanner crab, chilli and tomato and kangaroo tartare caught our attention as they were delivered to the adjacent table. The sort of pared-back but premium offerings you look forward to after a long day earning a high salary. Baked apple isn’t on the dessert menu but modern interpretations of childhood classics are very much to the fore - pavlova with passionfruit curd, bread and butter pudding with butterscotch ice cream and banana split with caramelised banana and peanut butter ice cream. Sommelier Sean Royle (ex-Bennelong) has also taken the red pen to the former long-as-your-arm wine list and the cocktail listings are limited to the classics - negronis, martinis and whiskey sours. Even the staff have undergone a re-fresh. Instead of more reserved Europeans, most are now more laid back but still knowledgeable millennials who add to a more relaxed atmosphere for an after-work dinner or a relaxed weekend lunch. The Grill at The Four, Four in Hand Hotel, 105 Sutherland St, Paddington; phone (02) 9326 2254. I’ll admit it wasn’t easy to find Verace Pizzeria late at night amid the huge ofﬁce blocks of Macquarie Park. Perhaps we should have been guided by the polished gleam of the restaurant’s stash of trophies, including the cup for overall winner of the 2016 World Pizza Championship. Owner Stefano Cirene was chuffed by the global recognition of his chefs’ talent, but he is equally proud of Verace’s strong track record in the national pizza championships. You don’t come here for the ambiance - the venue is next to Kennards Hire - you come here to eat. In fact, bookings are essential such is Verace’s fame. Cirene, who jokes about his ample ﬁgure, is deadly serious

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about the sourcing of ingredients and it shows even if you don’t fancy one of the prize-winning pizzas. We started with one of the best calamari fritti I have ever eaten crisp and juicy without a hint of rubberiness, served with homemade aioli. Ditto the burrata with heirloom tomatoes, black fig vincotto and toasted farro. Verace means authentic in Italian and the pasta dishes toe the line. Forget about minced meat ragu, the hand-made egg pappardelle is served with traditional slow-cooked lamb shoulder that is silky soft and intensely flavoured. Verace holds a certificate from the Associazione Verace Pizza Napoletana and adheres to the governing body’s strict guidelines. The pizza menu is divided into Pizza Rosse (with a tomato base) and Pizza Bianche (without a tomato sauce). There are 18 in all, without counting the Nutella version for dessert. Our choice fell on the Patate - a perfect base of fior de latte, succulent roast potatoes, ham, garlic and rosemary. Room for dessert? You bet when one of the choices is torta ricotta e pera. It was so freshly baked, the fork mimicked a knife slipping through butter. Verace Pizzeria, 7 Klartoum Rd, Macquarie Park; phone (02) 9888 2929. District Brasserie is situated dead centre of the CBD’s corporate dining heartland, so it’s no surprise that the wine list is 120-strong. Thousands of people beaver away in Chifley Tower which looms above the restaurant’s location in its expansive lobby. Owned by Sam Loufti and the Vissaritis brothers, the venue established itself immediately as a go-to option for executive business lunches. The food is as simply fantastic as the Paul Kelly fit-out, from the Sydney rock oysters and roasted half chicken to the A-grade fish and chips and steak and frites - or rather Jack’s Creek sirloin. To further impress fellow diners - business colleagues and friends - go for baroque with the Valrhona chocolate mousse or the salted caramel custard with peanut butter ice-cream. District Brasserie, 2 Chifley Square, Sydney; phone (02) 9230 0900. Top & left: Food from The Grill at The Four restaurant.

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winewords M I C H A E L F R I D J H O N S O U T H A F R I C A N W I N E

W R I T E R

A N D

S H O W

J U D G E

DAN TRAUCKI

MICHAEL Fridjhon has over 35 years South African and international experience in the wine industry and is South Africa’s most respected wine judge, wine writer and leading industry strategist. He is an outstanding orator and wine ambassador, and is a visiting professor of Wine Business at the University of Cape Town. He has judged globally, including Chile, Slovenia, the US and Australia at the Royal Sydney, Perth Royal and the National Wine Show. His impressive list of achievements include past chairman of the South African Wine Industry Trust and Sydney’s Six Nation Wine Challenge. He is also the founding chairman of South Africa’s Old Mutual Trophy Wine Show. In 2012 he was made an honorary life member of the Circle of Wine Writers in the UK, along with Australia’s James Halliday and Britain’s Michael Broadbent MW. Fridjhon was the ﬁrst international co-chairman of the International Wine Challenge (IWC) in the UK and has authored or contributed to over 30 books. He writes regularly for publications in South Africa, France, Germany, the UK and India. He is understandably a very busy and knowledgeable man, and in great demand. You have a very impressive resume, how did you get started in wine? I grew up in a wine literate household so I had the opportunity to try good quality wines from Europe at a time when the South African alcohol industry was primarily focused on beer, spirits and fortifieds. At university I mixed with people who loved wines and so I started collecting wine. As I ﬁnished university a retailer that I bought plenty of wine from offered me a job and around the same time I also became the writer of an occasional wine column. The next step came when I followed

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my girlfriend to Montpellier in France for a year, where I learnt significantly more about wine. Upon returning to South Africa I joined the mainstream wine industry by getting a job in one of the biggest bottle shops (at the time) on the planet. This was the time when the South African wine industry was just starting to hit its straps and before long I was sourcing Buyers Own Brand wines for the store. Later I branched out on my own and became the imported liquor consultant for a number of companies, including Pernod Ricard. Around the same time I started writing regular wine columns for the Rand Daily Mail. I have now been writing regular wine columns for nearly 40 years. What has been your most noteworthy professional achievement? There have been a number of milestones in my career, including launching the Trophy Wine Show in 2002, in which, for the first time South Africa appointed three international judges, one to each of the three, three-person panels. The South African wine industry had few wine shows and they are mainly very parochial, with most of the judges being winemakers from the bigger companies, thus this was a step towards making the wine show system more cosmopolitan. How has the South African wine industry evolved and transformed since you first began to write and judge? In the early days the South African wine industry consisted of only around 300 or so mainly sizeable wineries which were very conservative, unadventurous and reliant on a small number of grape varieties. Whereas today it has close to 600 wineries, half of which are small, right down to garagiste-sized

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wineries which are much more experimental and creative. As recently as the early 1990s 30 per cent of wine produced was chenin blanc, much of it rather mundane and ordinary. The small wineries have taken chenin blanc and improved the variety by using old vines, hand crafting this wine to the extent that these wines now have the ability to beat the Loire wines in some competitions. These guys are also a lot more willing to experiment with new emerging varieties. What do you see as the key challenges and opportunities for the South African wine industry over the next five-ten years? The challenges are two-fold. Firstly, to get significantly more investment in the industry so that it can continue to grow and develop, especially for the smaller winemakers who struggle to obtain the necessary resources. This includes generating a more positive view towards the industry by the government which is currently detached and deeply uninterested in its well being and development. The second challenge being to steer many of the larger companies away from mass producing mundane wines which hinder the industry’s reputation overseas and fail to excite the growing domestic market. The main opportunity is to significantly increase the value of exports in all markets, particularly to newer emerging markets in Asia. Another opportunity is to increase the sales of handcrafted wines from smaller producers which in turn will lift South Africa’s image and profile globally. Additionally the wine market within South Africa is also showing healthy improvement as a growing urban middleclass embraces wine in a similar way in which they are doing so in many emerging economies such as China.

Weâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve heard about the success of South Africa chenin blanc on the world stage and the growing focus on old vines - tell us more? With the rise in small/garagiste winemakers they have led the way in appreciating oldvine chenin blanc. This coupled with more hand-crafted winemaking has created some sensational wines which the wine world is just starting to appreciate. This is leading to the revival of chenin blanc as a premium grape variety in the eyes of global wine consumers. Please comment on pinotage, the uniquely South African red varietal and one thatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s gaining increased attention around the world? Again, until fairly recently much of our pinotage wines, especially those exported by the bigger companies, were rather

mundane, uninspiring and often riddled with brettanomyces. Since the turn of the century there has been a much greater focus on creating unique, hand-crafted pinotage wines which are very exciting and rewarding. This trend is causing the world to re-examine and refocus on pinotage, with a growing degree of excitement, with the best yet to come. What grape varietals and blends are leading the way for South Africa and why? The South African wine industry is better at producing white wines than red at this stage of its development. Sauvignon blanc from the cooler areas is becoming a star and the top chardonnays are fabulous. Added to this we are starting to see some excellent bottle fermented sparkling wines. In the reds, the loser at the moment seems to be cabernet sauvignon, basically due

to the urban pressure on vineyards around Stellenbosch which has recently seen the loss of several vineyards. The other challenge for cabernet sauvignon is that more producers are making their wine in the Californian-style which in turn is causing stylistic confusion amongst drinkers who are accustomed to the European-style of cabernet. Having said that, merlot is progressing in leaps and bounds, with the recent introduction of new clonal material, because much like in Australia, most of our earlier material was low-grade. More careful site selection is also playing a part in this improvement in wine quality. Pinot noir is another variety in the ascendancy, with plantings in better cooler areas and again the selection of better clonal material. As mentioned earlier, pinotage is progressing nicely thanks to the newer breed of winemakers. Not only are the varietal wines

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improving but it is also playing a bigger role in blended wines as well. Finally, the variety that I believe has significant unrealised potential is cinsaut. It is quite widely planted but underrated and misunderstood, much like mataro (monastrell) is in Australia. Gradually winemakers are starting to pay more attention to the variety, giving their older vines more care and this is starting to show in some excellent wines, and even more so in cabernet cinsaut blends which offer an alternative to the usual bordeaux-type blend. Are organic and biodynamic wines becoming more prevalent like they are in Australia? Not at this stage. There is some movement towards organic in particular but it is still too early in the industry’s resurrection for it to be a major focus. How is global warming shaping South African winemaking decisions and regional varietal selection? Rising temperatures from global warming

does not seem to be much of an issue in South Africa. The major issue affecting the wine industry is the decrease in rainfall from shifting rainfall patterns which is leading to consistently lower water availability season after season. This could become a serious issue in the future if the weather patterns do not shift back. While South Africa focuses on exports to Europe and the US, what is needed to get South African wines on retail shelves in Australia, especially given that Aussie’s are increasingly drinking wines from all over the world? With many Australian wine drinkers still remembering the “old” South African wines that the big companies pushed to export late last century, it will take quite an effort in conducting tastings and hand-selling, to make Aussie drinkers realise that the “new” South African wines are a far cry from what they tried before. The current wines from focused newer/smaller producers are world-class wines that are exciting and

delicious. These wines are ideally suited to the Australian climate and lifestyle but it will take a considerable effort to overcome past impressions. What are your observations on the growth in wine and food tourism to the Cape Winelands? We are at the start of an exciting new era in wine and food tourism which will grow signiﬁcantly over the next few years as the world becomes more aware of what an amazing range of produce and wines we have to offer. The focus really needs to be on the higher-end tourism so as to enlighten people as to the quality and class of our offerings. Why should people be excited about South African wine? South African wine is going through an evolution rather than a revolution and the result is a growing number of uniquely South African, world-class wines which have the capacity to excite wine drinkers anywhere

Top 5 - 2016

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in the world. The new, smaller producers are creating very exciting wines by pushing the boundaries and rejecting the status quo which led to the industry’s malaise over much of the last two decades. How did you become involved with Sydney-based Luxury Wine Trails? This is quite an exciting and unique adventure for lovers of wine and food keen to experience South Africa’s Cape Town and the Cape Winelands as an “insider”. In 2016 I met with the owner, Michael Nash, in Johannesburg. He shared his vision for the tour experience and his desire to engage with guests across many levels which really appealed to me. The masterclass I lead introduces guests to the history of South African winemaking, the key wine regions and varietals and a tasting of some of my personal favourites, followed by a degustation dinner together. Tell us about the masterclass you host for Luxury Wine Trails in the Cape Winelands? This is a unique opportunity for visitors to taste the regionality and variety of South

African wines. It offers a great occasion to learn about and understand South African wines in situ, with an overview of the best performing varieties and their locations. What are South African winemakers’ views and adoption of screwcap versus cork? Screwcaps are slowly being adopted by the South African wine industry. Today around 60-70 per cent of all chenin blanc and all riesling are sealed under screwcap. With reds, the conversion is much slower, with most wines still being under cork. I am a huge fan of screwcaps as they remove the likelihood of the wine being denigrated or even ruined by a component of its packaging but the conversion will be a slow, evolutionary process rather than the revolution it was in Australia. Do you have a favourite Australian wine and varietal? Yes, in my 40 years of visiting Australia I have come to love the unique style of Australian sparkling shiraz, especially with some age on it. It is a truly unique style that no other country produces, and over time it becomes

so svelte and delightful. I am also very keen on well-aged Hunter semillon and aged/ancient Australian fortifieds, especially Rutherglen’s best. The biggest change that I have noticed on the Australian wine scene is how much better Australian chardonnay has become. They have gone from being massively over oaked brutes to great expressions of place and regionality with subtle nuances. Australia is a very exciting place to be drinking right now. Finally, if you could pick any one wine to enjoy over the last century what would it be? Having got hooked on wine by Burgundies, my all-time favourite wine was the Clos de Lambyrs 1894 tasted in their cellars in the 1980s as the grand finale of a comprehensive tasting of all their different wines. It was breath-taking and awe inspiring to be drinking such a magnificent piece of history. One of my other favourites was the 1953 Penfolds Grange which in the 1980s was absolutely magnificent.

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W H AT ’ S I T WO RT H ?

WINESTATE’S AUCTION PRICE GUIDE

Prices listed are exceptional auction highs and do not include buyer’s premium.

AUSTRALIAN WINES BASS PHILLIP Premium Pinot Noir 1990 $75 1991 $90 1992 $95 1993 $80 1994 $110 1995 $80 1996 $110 1997 $140 1998 $140 1999 $120 2000 $120 2001 $160 2002 $145 2003 $110 2004 $140 2005 $80 2007 $130 2008 $85 2009 $85 2010 $90 2011 $100

Block 1997 1998 1999 2000 2001 2002 2003 2004 2005 2006 2007 2008 2009 2010 2011 2012

BINDI 5 Pinot Noir $80 $95 Not Released $150 $120 $110 $85 $110 $140 $100 $120 $120 $90 $95 $85 $95

BROKENWOOD Graveyard Shiraz 1990 $90 1991 $110 1992 Not Released 1993 $80 1994 $80 1995 $85 S 1996 $95 1997 $85 1998 $140 S 1999 $90 2000 $140 S 2001 $85 S 2002 $75 2003 $80 2004 $85 S 2005 $85 2006 $110 2007 $90 2008 Not Released 2009 $85 CLARENDON HILLS Astralis Shiraz 1994 $200 1995 $200 1996 $250 T 1997 $200 1998 $260 1999 $260 56

2000 2001 2002 2003 2004 2005 2006 2007 2008 2009 2010 2011 2012

$270 $290 $300 $200 $350 $230 $250 Not Released Not Released Not Released $200 Not Released $210

CLONAKILLA Shiraz Viognier 1990 $65 1993 $65 1994 $85 1995 $65 1996 $100 1997 $130 1998 $150 1999 $55 2000 $90 2001 $130 2002 $130 2003 $100 T 2004 $120 2005 $110 2006 $120 S 2007 $190 S 2008 $90 2009 $95 T 2010 $90 T 2011 $75 2012 $70

Cabernet Merlot 1999 $95 2000 $65 2001 $110 T 2002 $90 2003 $90 2004 $110 S 2005 $85 2006 $70 2007 $100 2008 $95 S 2009 $95 S 2010 $100 S 2011 $75 ELDERTON Command Shiraz 1990 $90 T 1991 Not Released 1992 $100 1993 $65 1994 $85 S 1995 $75 1996 $95 1997 $70 1998 $95 1999 $70 2000 $65 2001 $65 2002 $85 2003 $65 2004 $75 S 2005 $65 2006 $70 2007 $65 S

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2008 $55 2009 $70 GIACONDA Chardonnay 1990 $110 1991 $60 1992 $85 1993 $90 1994 $100 1995 $85 1996 $140 1997 $95 1998 $110 T 1999 $120 2000 $110 2001 $110 2002 $160 2004 $190 2005 $120 2006 $110 T 2007 $120 S 2008 $130 T 2009 Not Released 2010 $130 2011 $130 2012 $130

Meshach 1990 $100 1991 $85 1992 $80 1993 $70 1994 $90 1995 $70 1996 $90 1997 Not Released 1998 $110 1999 $90 2000 $70 2001 $110 2002 $95 2003 $60 2004 $70 2005 $65 2006 $65 2007 Not Released 2008 $85 GREENOCK CREEK Roennfeldt Rd Shiraz 1995 $280 1996 $260 1997 $160 1998 $350 1999 $200 S 2000 $220 2001 $250 2002 $320 S 2003 $210 2004 $210 2005 $230 2006 $260

Hill of Grace 1980 $280 S 1981 $220 1982 $250 S

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1983 1984 1985 1986 1987 1988 1989 1990 1991 1992 1993 1994 1995 1996 1997 1998 1999 2001 2002 2004 2005 2006 2007 2008

$220 $220 $280 $330 $250 S $330 S $280 S $460 $400 $350 S $300 S $360 S $320 S $480 $300 T $420 $380 $380 S $420 $380 $390 S $180 T Not Released $540

Armagh Shiraz 1990 $200 1991 $120 T 1992 $140 S 1993 $110 1994 $130 1995 $130 1996 $190 S 1997 $140 T 1998 $250 S 1999 $180 S 2000 $120 2001 $140 2002 $200 2004 $160 S 2005 $120 2006 $160 2007 $95 2008 $160

Chardonnay Art Series 1990 $60 1991 $60 1992 $70 1993 $65 1994 $85 1995 $100 1996 $65 1997 $90 1998 $70 1999 $75 2000 $75 2001 $80 2002 $80 S 2003 $80 2004 $90 2005 $75 2006 $70 2007 $85 2008 $70 2009 $75 2010 $70

MOSS WOOD Cab Sauv 1990 $130 1991 $150 1992 $120 1993 $100 1994 $100 1995 $130 1996 $120 1997 $100 1998 $130 T 1999 $130 2000 $130 S 2001 $130 2002 $120 S 2003 $90 2004 $100 2005 $100 2006 $70 S 2007 $95 S 2008 $90 2009 $85 2010 $80 S 2011 $90 MOUNT MARY Quintet 1990 $150 1991 $120 1992 $110 1993 $95 1994 $110 1995 $100 1996 $120 1997 $120 1998 $160 1999 $130 2000 $120 2001 $110 2002 $130 2003 $110 2004 $140 2005 $120 2006 $120 2007 $90 2008 $95 2009 Not Released 2010 $85 2011 $120

Bin 1951 1952 1953 1954 1955 1956 1957 1958 1959 1960 1961 1962 1963 1964 1965

95 Grange $46,000 $17,000 $14,000 $11,000 S $4,000 $14,000 $12,000 $4,100 $2,000 $1,500 $1,600 $1,600 $1,200 S $1,200 S $600 S

1966 1967 1968 1969 1970 1971 1972 1973 1974 1975 1976 1977 1978 1979 1980 1981 1982 1983 1984 1985 1986 1987 1988 1989 1990 1991 1992 1993 1994 1995 1996 1997 1998 1999 2000 2001 2002 2003 2004 2005 2006 2007 2008

1990 1991 1992 1993 1994 1995 1996 1997 1998 1999 2000 2001 2002 2003 2004 2005 2006 2007 2008 2009 2010

$1,000 $600 $600 $560 $400 $720 $400 $450 $480 $460 $850 $450 $380 $400 $380 $400 $380 $480 $350 $380 $520 $350 $380 $360 $540 $460 $380 $380 $380 $370 $500 $380 $580 $400 $420 $380 $450 $420 $460 $430 $520 $420 $620

S S

S S S S S T S

Stonewell Shiraz 1990 $90 1991 $70 1992 $60 1993 $65 1994 $55 1995 $55 1996 $70 1997 $55 1998 $85 S 1999 $75 2000 $70 2001 $65 2002 $70 2003 $55 2004 $85 2005 $60 2006 $60 2007 $55 2008 $60

S S

Bin 707 $250 S $250 S $210 S $220 S $220 S Not Released $230 $190 $260 $200 Not Released $210 S $220 S Not Released $200 $230 S $220 S $200 S $210 S $200 S $280

Bin 60A 1962 $4,000 2004 $550 S 2006 $400

Basket Press Shiraz 1990 $150 1991 $140 1992 $95 1993 $110 S 1994 $95 S 1995 $100 S 1996 $180 S 1997 $90 T 1998 $190 1999 $110 2000 $90 2001 $95 2002 $120 2003 $100 2004 $110 S 2005 $110 S 2006 $110 2007 $85 T 2008 $85 T 2009 $85 S 2010 $100 S THREE RIVERS/ Chris Ringland Wines Shiraz 1990 $520 1991 $690 1992 $600 1993 $700 1994 $650 1995 $450 1996 $830 1997 Not Released 1998 $850 1999 $600 2000 $450 2001 $800 2002 $800 2003 $500

IN PARTNERSHIP WITH TRANSTHERM Cellaring Your Fine Wines in Perfect Conditions

1990 1991 1992 1993 1994 1995 1996 1997 1998 1999 2000 2001 2002 2003 2004 2005 2006 2008 2009 2010 2011

Shiraz $150 $130 $80 $90 $120 $110 $160 $85 $160 $100 $80 $100 $150 $100 $120 $130 $130 $120 $130 $140 $110

2002 2003 2004 2005 2006 2007 2008

S T S S

S S

Para Liqueur 1878 $2,200 S 1879 $2,500 S 1880 $1,800 S 1881 $1,800 S 1882 $1,800 S 1887 $1,200 S 1893 $1,200 S 1899 $1,200 S 1901 $700 S 1908 $600 S 1910 $500 S 1922 $350 1925 $600 1927 $290 1930 $140 1933 $140 S 1939 $90 S 1944 $80 S 1947 $75 S

IMPORTED WINES

Moet et Chandon Cuvee Dom Perignon 1980 $180 T 1982 $280 S 1983 $190 S 1985 $200 1988 $260 1990 $320 T 1992 $240 1993 $260 1995 $220 1996 $370 S 1998 $260 1999 $190 2000 $190 S 2002 $200 2003 $190 2004 $170

$2,000 Not Released $2,000 $5,700 $2,100 $3,200 S $3,000

E. Guigal La Turque Hermitage 1990 $800 1991 $850 S 1992 $270 1993 $240 Louis Roederer Chateau 1994 $300 Cristal d’Yquem Sauternes 1995 $500 1990 $550 1990 $800 1996 $260 1993 $220 1991 $450 1997 $450 S 1994 $340 1993 $340 1998 $700 1995 $300 1994 $360 1999 $850 S 1996 $440 1995 $500 T 2000 $420 1997 $450 1996 $540 2001 $520 1999 $340 1997 $490 2002 $450 2000 $340 1998 $400 2003 $850 2002 $300 1999 $520 2004 $560 2004 $240 2000 $600 2005 $600 2001 $900 2006 $750 Chateau Mouton 2002 $500 Rothschild 2003 $600 Gaja Barbaresco 1990 $650 S 2004 $500 1990 $330 1991 $550 2005 $650 1991 $220 1992 $230 2008 $600 1992 Not Released 1993 $550 T 1993 $210 1994 $340 Domaine 1994 $260 1995 $520 de la Romanee 1995 $210 1996 $800 S Conti La Tache 1996 $300 1997 $280 1990 $7,400 1997 $380 T 1998 $420 1991 $1,900 1998 $300 1999 $750 S 1992 $1,250 1999 $300 S 2000 $1,150 1993 $2,200 2000 $250 T 2001 $450 1994 $1,600 2001 $250 2002 $500 1995 $3,500 S 2002 Not Released 2003 $600 1996 $3,100 S 2003 Not Released 2004 $850 S 1997 $1,900 2004 $310 2005 $1,200 1998 $2,200 2005 Not Released 2006 $950 S 1999 $5,000 2007 $240 2008 Not Released 2000 $1,500 2009 $2,000 2001 $2,000 Tenuta 2002 $3,800 S Dell’Ornellaia Chateau Latour 2003 $2,800 Ornellaia 1990 $1,250 2004 $2,500 1991 $320 1991 $600 2005 $5,500 S 1992 $105 1992 $350 2006 $1,700 1993 $125 1993 $440 2007 $1,200 1994 $130 1994 $460 2008 $2,400 1995 $130 1995 $1,200 S 2009 $5,000 1996 $180 1996 $1,400 S 1997 $350 S 1997 $650 S Domaine Armand 1998 $350 S 1998 $520 Rousseau 1999 $200 1999 $600 Chambertin 2000 $450 S 2000 $1,600 Clos de Beze 2001 $260 2001 $700 1990 $2,500 S 2002 $280 2002 $600 1991 $200 2003 $150 2003 $1,700 1992 $220 2004 $280 S 2004 $600 1993 $700 S 2005 $200 2005 $1,300 1994 $500 2006 $220 S 2006 $1,100 1995 $560 2007 $220 2007 $750 1996 $650 2008 $150 2008 $1,100 1997 $280 2009 $190 1998 $400 Chateau Petrus 1999 $800 Vega Sicilia Unico 1990 $5,500 2000 $320 Gran Reserva 1991 Not Released 2001 $700 S 1990 $560 1992 $1,300 2002 $680 1991 $420 1993 $1,000 2003 $600 1994 $550 1994 $2,800 2004 $440 1995 $420 1995 $4,000 S 2005 $1,200 S 1996 $360 1996 $2,400 2006 $600 1998 $420 1997 $1,000 2007 Not Released 1999 $550 S 1998 $4,800 S 2009 $1,100 2000 $360 1999 $1,250 2010 $1,100 2002 $420 2000 $6,000 2003 $294 2001 $4,500 S

NES

Top fivE NET TASTING ER ER

TAT E IN T

HUON HOOKE

POINTS

November/December 2017

N AT ION A L C A B

TYSON STELZER

POINTS

MIKE BENNIE

POINTS

W I N E S TAT E

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AUCTION DATES MW WINES November auction: Opens November 1, closes November 8 (submissions close October 28) December auction: Opens November 29, closes December 6 (submissions close November 25) Submissions can be received at any time. STERLING WINE

LANGTON’S AUCTIONS Auctions close at 9pm every Tuesday and Thursday, with unreserved auctions every second Sunday. Finest & Rare, $5 Reserve, Single Vendor and more. Visit langtons.com.au to view the full calendar.

STERLING WINE Live on-line auctions run every two weeks, back-to-back, ﬁnishing on Wednesday evening.

ODDBINS WINE AUCTIONS Visit oddbins.com.au for the latest auction dates and information. (All dates subject to change without notice.)

W I N E S TAT E

(WINE EQUALITY, by LYNTON BARBER) WE have wonderful women winemakers and an industry that was carried and nurtured by Mary Penfold like a babe on hip. Equality is a big focus and it’s worth looking at the wine auction colour divide. You do hear this a lot: “I don’t drink white wine” or “Yes, a glass of wine please. Oh no! Not white wine”- even, “anything but chardonnay”. Typical serious wine collectors driving the wine auction market are likely to be male, upper middle class, well-educated and comfortable with conservative values. For them, the white wine “use by date” issue is a factor and hard to ignore. With the exception of premium riesling and semillon, most whites - even premium chardonnays - are “drink now” or “drink before ﬁve years” propositions. There’s also lots of disappointment with well-cellared whites falling off the perch. We’re still coming to grips with a “bad patch” in world chardonnay best practice (1990-2000) that led to so-

November/December 2017

called random oxidisation and brown wine that tastes like a mix of Madeira and molasses. On this front there is good news! Chardonnay best practice is now producing wines of amazing quality that do work well in the cellar. So, here’s a question: are all wines created equal or is there colour prejudice? A few years ago I lunched with a very wine savvy gent who told me, in advance, he did not drink white wine. Of course, I couldn’t help but challenge this statement and so put a glass of 10-year-old Tyrrells premium semillon in front of him. Funny thing, I literally had to force him to drink! He could not get over how good it was. Colour shouldn’t be an issue when eating. Oysters or fromage chevre and a perfectly paired sauvignon blanc/sancerre sweeps the floor. Or, think Cantonese or Thai spices with gewurztraminer or Gruner Veltliner, antipasto and pinot grigio/ verdelho - all matches made in heaven. Density and rich ripeness can be found in plenty of whites. Big, fat, oily pinot gris and Spanish whites stack up well against strong ﬂavours and vinegar in foods to create a heavenly balance. Maybe the trick is to use coloured tasting glasses (you can get blue or black) and forget the colour altogether. This is, in fact, an advanced sensory perception test and many seriously experienced palates are completely fooled if they can’t see a wine’s colour. Try it at home: do a completely blind tasting. Don’t look at the wine, just smell and taste. Recently I was lucky enough to enjoy a look at a 2012 Australian premium chardonnay at an event with a couple of industry heavyweights. I wasn’t that interested to start, after all it wasn’t cabernet or shiraz, but the list was amazing - Giaconda, Mount Mary, Vat 47, Giant Steps, Xanadu, Woodlands, Cullen, Leeuwin, Pierro, Heytesbury, Yabby Lake, Shaw & Smith, Tolpuddle, Penfolds, Forrest Hill and Chateau Montelena from the Napa - for international next world perspective. The Giaconda slayed and the rest rocked, with Yabby Lake the only stand out on extreme style individuality. The wines (it should be noted that the average bottle price was pushing $100)

wine investment & collecting

and the commentary led by the big cheeses from Woodlands and Xanadu, were breathtaking in their complexity and pleasure giving. While I’m not blessed with a sensitive palate, I do have a good wine memory and one of the most enjoyable and satisfying recent wine experiences, as part of the 2012 Benchmark Chardonnay tasting, was a line-up of six Margaret River super premium chardonnays. Sliding back and forth, enjoying good serves in big ﬁne glasses, was a joy and mixing it all with some suitable food gave the experience even more elevation. Over the years plenty has changed in the wine game, but fortunately two of the very best cheap cellaring bargains remain (although one has changed name). Tahbilk Marsanne and Houghton (white burgundy) White Classic are too cheap for what they promise - five plus years in the cellar beats any ugly duckling to swan story. The only challenge is holding back. Buy two or three cases each year and be strong. So, be brave and try something new and white. Spain and Italy alone have 40 or so amazing white varieties that are available

from your local ﬁne wine specialist. Go nuts with Hermitage - not the red, the white! Hermitage blanc is serious stuff and the top wines are pushing $500 a bottle. Bordeaux is also big on whites. The most amazing white in my experience is still Chateau Haut Brion Blanc, the most complex and exciting palate I can remember and it was 20 years old when opening. But don’t rush out and look for one. Haut Brion Blanc is very rare and mad priced (more expensive than the red). Sterling Auctions sell plenty of premium whites, mainly Australian chardonnays and plenty of premium sauternes. The good news for bargain hunters is that other premium whites usually sell well below retail price and are deﬁnitely worth a look. For more information visit www. sterlingwine.com.au.

MW WINES (JUNE, JULY 2017 AUCTION REPORT, by NICK STAMFORD) THIS year it’s certainly felt that we were building to something and in July it all came together in the biggest auction in our history. When the hammer fell at auction close, over $780,000 of wine had

changed hands, including the sale of one of the most remarkable bottles we’ve offered for sale. The sale of a bottle of 1951 Penfolds Grange is a rare thing, but when the bottle had personally been recorked and signed by Grange’s creator, Max Schubert - with a handwritten note on the back, we knew we had a piece of history that demanded a price reﬂective of this. It sold for $51,750, one of the most expensive bottles of wine ever sold in this country. Our June auction was also impressive, with $300,000 of wine changing hands, taking us to almost $1.1 million of sales over the two auctions. But it was almost lost in the excitement of July’s event. Some of the key statistical highlights of our July auction include a 70 per cent clearance by value, a staggering 71 bottles sold for over $1000 and a monumental total of over 15,000 bottles offered for sale. This was truly one of the greatest individual wine auctions ever seen in this country. With some extraordinary consignments covering iconic Australian wines, seriously old and rare bordeaux and burgundy, and some exceptional champagnes,

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Specialists in rare Australian wines, and purveyors of the world’s most iconic producers. Call us on 03 9419 6990 to discuss your wine needs or shop online now at mwwines.com.au

November/December 2017

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buyers came out in force and bidding on many lots was ﬁercely competitive. Some excellent prices were achieved and there were many happy vendors. Very strong results continue to be achieved for Penfolds wines, particularly Grange and Bin 707. In addition to the 1951 mentioned above, a fairly good bottle of 1977 Grange, in its 40th anniversary year, went for more than double its estimate at $1150 after some particularly heated bidding. Overall, an unprecedented 516 bottles of Grange were offered for sale and a clearance rate of 84 per cent of lots was achieved. A total of 171 bottles of Bin 707 were offered across the two auctions, with every bottle selling, most well above estimate. This result was testament to the high regard this wine is now held in. Some other iconic Australian wines continued the trend of record prices. Two bottles of McWilliams’ 2014 Mount Pleasant Maurice O’Shea Shiraz achieved over $200 a bottle and we saw another record result of $161 for a bottle of 2006 Rockford Basket Press Shiraz. Once

again, every bottle of Henschke Hill of Grace and Mount Edelstone offered was sold, most at well above reserve. There were some stunning results, too, in the burgundy section, with the highlight probably being the $1380 achieved for a bottle of Armand Rousseau’s 1990 Gevrey Chambertin Clos St Jacques, on an estimate of $760. Excellent results were also recorded among the sale of 44 of the 46 bottles of Domaine de la Romanee-Conti offered and wines from the late Rene Engel continue to increase in demand - a bottle of 2002 Clos Vougeot sold for almost double its estimate at $620, as did the 2001 Vosne-Romanee Brulees at $470. The red bordeaux section saw possibly the most extensive and varied selection of First Growths we’ve ever presented for sale. Overall, the July auction had 209 bottles offered, dating back to 1918. 178 of these sold, a great result considering their price. The highlights included a magnum of 1982 Latour in reasonable condition selling for $3200 and a bottle of 1961 Latour, also in reasonable

condition, selling for over $2900. As foreshadowed in our last report, the bordeaux market is now officially alive and well again in this country. As this issue goes to press, our August and September auctions will be in the books, with consignments looking particularly strong. We expect these auctions to offer up some exceptional catalogues that may even come close to July’s amazing offering and we look forward to reporting on their results in Winestate’s next edition. Finally, there was plenty of activity in the fine wine retail division, with the commencement of our Burgundy Education Sessions providing our first group with an informative and entertaining insight into this complex region. Some excellent free tastings were also held at our Collingwood premises along with an extraordinary offering of old and rare gems from Burgundy, Barolo and Germany via retail cellar offers. If you’d like to receive these offers, sign up at www.mwwines. com.au/shop or give us a call. If you’re interested in buying or selling with MW

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November/December 2017

Let Oddbins Wine Auctions show you how to buy wine in three easy steps… Step 1 - Call us about our subscriptions 08 8365 4722 Step 2 - View the wines online or posted catalogue - www.oddbins.com.au Step 3 - Set your budget & place your bids! - From 1 to 1,000 bottles

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LANGTON’S AUCTIONS (AUCTION MARKET HIGHLIGHTS, by ADRIAN READ) LANGTON’S holds at least five online auctions each week - a number that doesn’t include annual, biennial or oneoff auctions such as those linked to the Barossa Vintage Festival and other major wine industry awards and events. Langton’s also holds charity auctions, the full proceeds of which go to the designated charity. The most recent of these supported the family of well-known and well-loved wine industry commentator Tony Keys, who is ﬁghting illness. One of our regular weekly auctions is Finest & Rare, so-named because the secondary market is no longer just about wine. Liqueurs and spirits - from Scotland, the US, Japan and Australia are attracting a new generation of drinkers and collectors. Our Finest & Rare auctions include between 3000 and 4000 lots. The

following five are just some of the items which drew more than usual interest at recent Finest & Rare sales. The 1963 Mildara Coonawarra Cabernet Sauvignon, nicknamed “Peppermint Patty” after the dark chocolate coated mint confectionery item, is one of the rarest fine Australian wines of the 1960s. Although it was a freak wine, with no subsequent release having the same intensely minty character, it did spearhead the reputation of Coonawarra cabernet sauvignon as a single-variety wine style. Here’s how the late Len Evans remembers it: “Of the wines that have appeared under this label, the 1963 was the first and by far the most outstanding. The wine had an incredibly intense flavour, fantastic fruit and beautiful oak, and it was so outstanding that it simply walked away with all the honours when first shown at the Royal Sydney Wine Show”. Huon Hooke agrees: “The most famously minty Australian wine of all time is undoubtedly “Peppermint Patty”… which also happens to be famous because it’s a great wine.” Around 15,000 bottles were made but

the wine is now increasingly rare. A bottle sold at a recent Langton’s Finest & Rare sale for $1165. We have a new record price for the 1996 Rockford Basket Press Shiraz. A pristine bottle of this Barossa Valley stalwart and Langton’s Classiﬁed Exceptional fetched $322, smashing the previous record of $171. Perhaps two bidders both needed a 21st birthday present? That other Barossa behemoth, Penfolds Grange, always rates a mention. Of the large volume sold over the relevant period, a bottle of the 1965 fetched $1500. The previous record was $1302 and the sale shows that the power of Grange appears to be never ending. Bidders love big bottles and an imperial (six litres) of 2004 Irvine Grand Merlot sold for $590, against the $360 you might pay for the equivalent eight 750ml bottles. Rarity is also a factor here. Finally, to demonstrate the growing importance of spirits, a bottle of Buffalo Trace Distillery George T. Stagg Kentucky Bourbon went for $628. All prices include buyer’s premium.

November/December 2017

W I N E S TAT E

117 TASTED 87 AWARDED

P I N OT N O I R A great result for this most difficult variety. Difficult in the sense that it promises so much yet requires a deft hand and considerable sensitivity to draw out its ethereal qualities without overwhelming the flavour and structure. Once again the best options are at the value end for "village" style quaffers and at the pricey end where winemakers know what they are doing.

PINOT NOIR UNDER $20 5 TASTED 4 AWARDED A solid little class of good quaffers with the wines showing nice vibrancy, balance and a touch of varietal character. We don't expect great depth at this price range. Tomich Duck & Weave Adelaide BESTE VALU Hills Pinot Noir BUYS 2016 ★★★★1/2 A “snappy, sinewy" wine with an earthy/beetroot bouquet and lovely long palate with excellent varietal fruit flavour profile, some nice tannins and a lingering finish. 3-5 $18

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Scotchmans Hill Swan Bay Bellarine Peninsula Pinot Noir 2015 ★★★★ Medium intensity of earthy red fruit aromas and a palate clearly varietal in character with earthy, leathery and cranberry characters. $20

Trentham Estate Mildura Pinot Noir 2016 ★★★1/2 Nose is light and fruity and the simple berry palate starts off fullﬂavoured ﬁnishing dry and quite tannic. $16

11 TASTED 9 AWARDED "Most of these wines are pretty good for the price," said one judge.

Logan Weemala Orange Pinot Noir 2016 ★★★★1/2 Dark cherry/plum aromas lift out the glass and the palate offers masses of mouthfilling earthy/dark berry/ chocolaty flavours, prominent tannins and sweet finish. $19.99

Haha Wines Marlborough Pinot Noir 2016 ★★★★ A pretty wine with a vibrant youthful summer berry bouquet and good intensity of varietal fruit ﬂavours with a lingering ﬁnish. 3-5 $20

Acacia Grove Regional Selection Adelaide Hills Pinot Noir 2016 ★★★1/2 A mix of ﬂoral and confectionery fruit aromas and pleasing cranberry/raspberry ﬂavours; some complexity. $14.90

PINOT NOIR $20-$25

"However why do some winemakers overdo the oak? Let the fruit express itself."

November/December 2017

Jules Taylor Wines Marlborough Pinot Noir 2016 ★★★★1/2 Nose is lifted and varietal with nice use of new oak. It has a confectionery chocolate/ black cherry palate and obvious oak. "Should be a popular style," said one judge. $23.99

Oakdene Blue Label Bellarine Peninsula Pinot Noir 2016 ★★★★★ A smart well-made wine with jammy sweet berry aromas showing subtle spiciness. Mediumbodied palate has ripe black and red fruit ﬂavours with well-handled oak to balance. $24

Babich Black Label Marlborough Pinot Noir 2016 ★★★ Lovely light lifted varietal characters of rhubarb and beetroot and good level of acidity. $20 Delatite High Ground High Country Pinot Noir 2016 ★★★ Pleasant confectionery fragrances and a bright varietal palate loaded with oak. $20

Grounded Cru Adelaide Hills Pinot Noir 2016 ★★★ Herbal aromas; some fruit and a hint of oak. Oak sits on top of the herbal driven palate. $22 Cape Banks Mount Gambier Pinot Noir 2013 ★★★ Nice old wine; secondary characters dominate. Has some fruit poking through and upfront tannins. $24.95

PINOT NOIR $25-$30 26 TASTED 17 AWARDED A very strong class of pinots as expected at this price range.

Babich Marlborough Pinot Noir 2016 ★★★ Simple fruity lift to the nose and light, tight palate but has some earthy complexity developing. $24.95

varietal tasting Villa Maria Marlborough Gold Label Cellar Selection Pinot Noir 2016 ★★★★★ Nose shows beautiful expression of cherry cola/dark berry varietal characters and has a generously ﬂavoured, cool climate, pinot with solid layered and complex fruit. 5+ $25 Handpicked Regional Selections Mornington Peninsula Pinot Noir 2016 ★★★★★ A pretty, poised nose of sweet summer berries, violets and vanilla. Palate displays lovely berry fruits, oak and nice spiciness with a lovely interplay of acid and tannins. 3-5 $28.99 Villa Maria Marlborough Private Bin Pinot Noir 2016 ★★★★1/2 Highly spicy strawberry/ raspberry bouquet whilst it is clean. Light and bright on the palate with lovely fruit, oak and spice characters and a persistent ﬁnish. 3-5 $25

Blind River Estate Estate Awatere Valley Marlborough Pinot Noir 2016 ★★★1/2 Clear bright wine with lovely colour and vibrant varietal expression of cherries and berries with some strong oak. $28

Foxeys Hangout Red Fox Mornington Peninsula Pinot Noir 2016 ★★★★1/2 Nose is lifted and youthful with varietal deﬁnition of cherries and plums. Medium weight palate is grippy and astringent with savoury varietal ﬂavours. Needs time. 3-5 $28

Handpicked Regional Selections Yarra Valley Pinot Noir 2016 ★★★1/2 Varietal aromas of cherries, plums and sweet spices with somewhat ﬁne, ephemeral, ﬂavours; some complexity. $28.99

Lawson's Dry Hills Reserve Marlborough Pinot Noir 2015 ★★★★1/2 Amazing colour for the variety. Cherry cola characters on the nose with oaky spiciness. Well focussed brooding savoury fruit flavours, chunky tannins and good oak use. $28 Kings of Kangaroo Ground Yarra Valley Pinot Noir 2015 ★★★★1/2 Nose of red fruits with subtle herbaceousness and evidence of new oak spiciness. Lovely fruit flavours with a pleasant acid/tannin profile and nice mouthfeel. 3-5 $28

Scarpantoni McLaren Vale Pinot Noir 2015 ★★★ "Seems like a nice old wine although it is only a 2015!" Attractive cherry/berry compote of fruit. $25

Hunter's Jane Hunter Marlborough Pinot Noir 2015 ★★★★ A solid varietal of youthful plum and cherry aromas with subtle sweet spices and a Cherry Ripe of a palate still showing nice freshness. $28.99 Hunter's Jane Hunter Marlborough Pinot Noir 2014 ★★★★ Loads of new oak spices on the red fruit nose. Nice palate weight with lovely varietal fruit and quality oak present but not intrusive. $28.99

Cape Bernier Haphazard Tasmania Pinot Noir 2016 ★★★1/2 A big, strong and sturdy style of pinot with very pleasant cola-like characters and some quite drying tannins. $29 Bellbrae Estate Longboard Geelong Pinot Noir 2016 ★★★ Upfront brooding fruit bouquet and some pleasant, slightly green, lightweight fruit ﬂavours. $25 Wicks Estate Adelaide Hills Pinot Noir 2016 ★★★ Very minty nose and a sweet licorice/black jelly bean of a palate with more of that mintiness. $25

Leabrook Estate Adelaide Hills Pinot Noir 2015 ★★★ Oaky/chocolaty nose; hints of age. Masses of upfront red fruit ﬂavours with an astringent ﬁnish. $29 Pear Tree Wines Marlborough Pinot Noir 2014 ★★★ An attractive older wine with herbal characters dominating and some greenness showing. $25

Tomich Hill Hilltop Adelaide Hills Pinot Noir 2016 ★★★ Upfront brooding/herbal fruit fragrances and drying palate with sour cherry ﬂavours. $28

JUDGES Jeni Port Melbourne-based wine writer, author and experienced wine judge. In 2014 she won Australian Wine Communicator of the Year and was named a Legend of the Melbourne Wine and Food Festival. She has judged at many wine shows in Australia and overseas and travels annually to Germany to judge at MUNDUS VINI.

Gary Baldwin Proprietor and wine consultant for The Wine Network. Consultant for over twenty wineries in most regions of Australia. Regular judge at capital city and regional wine shows.

November/December 2017

Sarah Andrew Owner Selador Wines. Certiﬁed Sommelier; WSET Certiﬁed Educator. Judged at the Eltham/ Daylesford wine show and Heathcote and Cool Climate Wine Show. Formerly on premise work and retail in the UK.

W I N E S TAT E

P I N OT N O I R PINOT NOIR $30-$35 13 TASTED 6 AWARDED A difﬁcult price range with the judges commenting that winemakers have the problems of cost of vineyard work and crop thinning required to produce intensity. Very mixed lot with some technical issues or fruit picked green. Stockman's Ridge Handcrafted Central Ranges Pinot Noir 2015 ★★★★★ Lovely purity of varietal characters here of cherries and strawberries with cranberry nuances. The nose has nice spiciness and there is some meatiness to the brooding palate. 3-5 $30

W I N E S TAT E

Wignalls Single Vineyard Albany WA Pinot Noir 2015 ★★★★★ Juicy fruity varietal bouquet with a spicy oak lift. Well-structured palate; good intensity of crisp clean varietal flavours with great tannin/acid integration driving the palate length. 3-5 $31 Bay of Fires Eddystone Point Tasmania Pinot Noir 2016 ★★★★★ A beautiful, finer style of pinot. Lovely floral cherry aromas with a gorgeous oak lift and a vibrant varietal expression to the palate that is starting to develop complexity. "Yummy!" $30

November/December 2017

Spring Vale Melrose Freycinet Coast Tasmania Pinot Noir 2017 ★★★★ Very youthful and varietal. Hints of medicinal notes on the nose and some strawberries and cherries on the herb garden of a palate. $30

PINOT NOIR $35-$40 25 TASTED 19 AWARDED A better result here. "Better use of oak here," agreed the judges with better quality fruit used.

Logan Orange Pinot Noir 2016 ★★★ A deﬁnitive cool climate style with spicy cherry cola nose and tangy fruit ﬂavours. $30 Tomich Woodside Single Vineyard Adelaide Hills Pinot Noir 2016 ★★★ Attractive complexity of cherries and spices with nice addition of oak and drying tannins. $30

Saint Clair Family Estate Pioneer Block 15 Strip Block Marlborough Pinot Noir 2016 ★★★★★ A soft, beautifully textured, classy wine with a seamless balance of attractive varietal characters on the nose which is echoed in the lovely complexity of spicy fruit ﬂavours. $37.90 NZ

Scotchmans Hill Bellarine Peninsula Pinot Noir 2015 ★★★★★ Cherries, berries and florals on the nose with a dash of chocolate. Dry savoury palate with lovely mouthfilling varietal flavours, bright acid, integrated tannins and persistent finish. $35

varietal tasting Babich Family Estates Headwaters Marlborough Pinot Noir 2016 ★★★★★ An elegant bright red/ purple wine with lifted herbal/cranberry-like aromas and some intriguing spicy varietal freshness to the seamless varietal palate. $39.95

Yes Said the Seal Bellarine Peninsula Pinot Noir 2016 ★★★★ "A gorgeous, utterly drinkable wine!" said one judge. It's juicy, fresh and lively with a complexity of red and blue fruits, ﬂorals and spices. $35 Saddlers Creek Tumbarumba Pinot Noir 2016 ★★★★ A tightly wound nose with some spicy red berries pushing through. Full-ﬂavoured ripe fruit/ chocolate palate with velvety tannins. $38

Loveblock Central Otago Pinot Noir 2014 ★★★1/2 A rich, riper and warmer style of pinot. Lovely varietal characters; tannins need more time to settle. 3-5 $36.99

Louis Jadot Le Vaucrain Cote de Nuits Villages Pinot Noir 2014 ★★★ Smoky chocolaty/licorice aromas and aged spicy strawberry fruit ﬂavours. "A little fragile." $36.99

Matahiwi Estate Wairarapa Pinot Noir 2016 ★★★ Spiciness tending to dominate the nose. Dry palate with sweet/sour fruit and obvious oak. $38.99

PINOT NOIR $40-$50

Leura Park Estate Bellarine Peninsula Pinot Noir 2015 ★★★ Slightly stemmy red fruit fragrances and ﬁrm herbal palate with greenish edge and lots of spice. $35

best and a few of the

21 TASTED 17 AWARDED A solid class with the 2016s performing the 2015s up to standard. We are seeing bright fruit ﬂavours from the best of 2016 for those who picked early, but there were those that were showing their age.

Zonte's Footstep Dawn Patrol Adelaide Hills Pinot Noir 2016 ★★★★1/2 Complex lifted aromas of red fruits, floral and oak spice. Lovely varietal definition, weight and intensity to the palate. "A lot going on," commented one judge. 3-5 $35 Brangayne of Orange Orange Pinot Noir 2016 ★★★★ "This wine is all about the tannins," said one judge. Cherry/plum bouquet and savoury varietal definition on the streamlined palate. $35 Chain of Ponds Morning Star Single Vineyard Adelaide Hills Pinot Noir 2016 ★★★★ Sweet lifted cherry/ berry bouquet and still has a slightly closed, dry, savoury palate but will come together nicely with more time. 3-5 $35

Giesen The Brothers Marlborough Pinot Noir 2015 ★★★ Charry oak dominated nose with subtle fruit in the background with a similar scenario on the palate. $37

Grounded Cru Adelaide Hills Pinot Noir 2016 ★★★1/2 Cherry aromatics with hints of mint and fragrant violets. Soft port wine jelly-like palate with nice tannin integration. $35 Foxeys Hangout Mornington Peninsula Pinot Noir 2016 ★★★1/2 "A complete wine where 'ﬁne' is the feature." Some smokiness on the berry nose with earthy/ sour cherry ﬂavours. $38 Yes Said the Seal Bellarine Peninsula Pinot Noir 2015 ★★★1/2 Quite concentrated bright plum and spicy cherry nose which follows through to the palate with pot pourri nuances. $35

Maison Roche de Bellene Vielles Vigne Bourgogne Pinot Noir 2015 ★★★ "A really idiosyncratic style of pinot," said one judge with its stewed berries and powerful oak. $38 Chanters Ridge Macedon Ranges Pinot Noir 2014 ★★★ A ﬁrm tannic wine that has an astringent mouthfeel and pleasant herbal fruit. $35 Two Degrees Central Ranges Pinot Noir 2016 ★★★ Intense complex pinot that's slow to open up for now. Pleasant varietal fruit with a herbal lift. Time! $37

Bay of Fires Tasmania Pinot Noir 2016 ★★★★★ Floral fragrances with red berry aromas and Christmas spices. Some ripe sweet fruit flavours well matched by the new oak that gives spiciness and tannins to the palate. 3-5 $45 Merricks Estate Mornington Peninsula Pinot Noir 2016 ★★★★1/2 An elegant wine with sweet fruit fragrances, nice spiciness and hints of oak. Attractive varietal palate with cherries and plums, Christmas spices and earthy notes. 3-5 $40 Cape Bernier Tasmania Pinot Noir 2016 ★★★★1/2 The nose is a sweet mix of bramble fruit, spices and herbs. The dry palate has a green astringent mouthfeel. Leaves a warm alcohol glow to the ﬁnish. $42

November/December 2017

Maude Central Otago Pinot Noir 2016 ★★★★1/2 A lovely fragrant lift to the pure varietal fruit nose. Not an overly complex palate but it's fresh and in balance with bright red fruits and warm on the finish. $42 Oakdene Peta's Bellarine Peninsula Pinot Noir 2016 ★★★★1/2 There's a dusty beetroot-like element to the nose with the beetroot characters following through to the berry fruit palate with engaging spiciness. $43 Craigie Knowe Vineyard Cranbrook Tasmania Pinot Noir 2015 ★★★★1/2 "Love the spice and black fruit on the nose," noted one judge. Nice core of brooding spicy black fruit and licorice flavours on the generously weighted palate. $40 Cape Bernier Tasmania Pinot Noir 2015 ★★★★1/2 Super fragrant nose with black fruit pastillelike aromas and solid, but surprisingly lifted, rich, floral fruit flavours on the subtlely powerful palate. $42 Saint Clair Family Estate Omaka Reserve Marlborough Pinot Noir 2016 ★★★★ Big rich ripe berry fruit bouquet with a big rich spicy palate that's silky soft in the mouth with good use of oak and bright acidity. $44 NZ Merricks Estate Mornington Peninsula Pinot Noir 2015 ★★★★ Nose driven by herbs with whole bunch varietal fruit characters. Slightly "clipped" palate but nice pinot fruit with drying tannins. $40

W I N E S TAT E

P I N OT N O I R Coal Pit Tiwha Central Otago Pinot Noir 2015 ★★★★ A sturdy wine with sweet cherry cola aromas. Dry and savoury in the mouth with upfront primary fruit and good acid/ tannins. $44.95 Santolin Syme on Yarra Vineyard Yarra Valley Pinot Noir 2015 ★★★★ A big solid wine; a good style with upfront tannins and lovely mix of blackberry, cherry and licorice fruit characters. “Lots going on!” $45 Babich Winemakers' Reserve Marlborough Pinot Noir 2016 ★★★1/2 Interesting perfumed, hair oil-like aromas and a grippy, ﬂavoursome, mid-weight palate with a warming ﬁnish. $44.95

Home Hill Estate Tasmania Pinot Noir 2016 ★★★1/2 An ethereal berry/ cherry fruit nose with a confectionery sweet fruit ﬂavour proﬁle and good tannic contribution. $45

Spring Vale Freycinet Coast Tasmania Pinot Noir 2016 ★★★ Varietal nose with a herbaceous green undertone. Subtle, developing, herbal fruit ﬂavours. $45

Coal Pit Tiwha Central Otago Pinot Noir 2016 ★★★1/2 Aged berry fruit nose; hints of leather with funky notes. Interesting palate, some stalky greenness and savoury nuances. $48

Romney Park Adelaide Hills Pinot Noir 2013 ★★★ Great varietal characters of black fruits, licorice and spices with herbal notes and balancing acidity. $45

Bellbrae Estate Bird Rock Geelong Pinot Noir 2016 ★★★ Quite developed savoury wine. Dusty earthy bouquet and stemmy characters a feature on the palate. $40

PINOT NOIR $50+ 16 TASTED 15 AWARDED "Some very smart wines here," noted one of the judges. "This is about fruit power with good oak and winemaking techniques". Overall we saw great consistency across the board with the judges' preferences coming to the fore. Foxeys Hangout Scotsworth Farm Mornington Peninsula Pinot Noir 2016 ★★★★★ The lovely nose is very varietal and lifted with subtle oak spices. Such a pretty palate with subtle, delicately perfumed strawberry fruit characters and driven by the tannins. $65

Foxeys Hangout Scotsworth Farm Mornington Peninsula Pinot Noir 2015 ★★★★★ A lovely wine that's bright and full of energy with a youthful spicy berry bouquet and masses of ripe black and red berry fruit flavours layered with licorice-like elements. $65 Foxeys Hangout Kentucky Road Mornington Peninsula Pinot Noir 2016 ★★★★1/2 A gentle pinot with an almost floral nose and some red fruits. Very tasty opulent palate with drive, poise and length, great varietal fruit definition and tannin integration. 5+ $65

Dear wine producer, we believe in well informed decisions. During our quest as importers in the wine and spirits industry of Sweden we have learnt our lesson. Well informed decision making is the single most sought out property from our collaborators. We have also watched how this increasingly has become a larger and larger part of how we spend our time. In an effort to provide You as a producer with a more comprehensive and relevant informtion bank we have taken the decision to initiate the Swedish Wine Watch. An entirely new concept of spreading information about the present, future and past of the Swedish drinks industry. Come aboard today or miss out.

W I N E S TAT E

November/December 2017

varietal tasting Home Hill Kelly's Reserve Tasmania Pinot Noir 2016 â&#x2DC;&#x2026;â&#x2DC;&#x2026;â&#x2DC;&#x2026;â&#x2DC;&#x2026;1/2 Distinctive cool climate style with a red berry bouquet and stalky herbaceousness. The palate is very strawberry and a little savoury with gamey notes and lovely spiciness. $75 Handpicked Wombat Creek Vineyard Yarra Valley Pinot Noir 2016 â&#x2DC;&#x2026;â&#x2DC;&#x2026;â&#x2DC;&#x2026;â&#x2DC;&#x2026;1/2 A wine that's soft, smooth and long with bright intensity of light red hues, warm oaky aromas with ďŹ&#x201A;oral nuances and a linear palate with delicate fruit and great acidity. 5+ $79.99

Handpicked Collection Yarra Valley Pinot Noir 2014 â&#x2DC;&#x2026;â&#x2DC;&#x2026;â&#x2DC;&#x2026;â&#x2DC;&#x2026;1/2 Starting to show its age. Leathery chocolaty nose with fragrant violet-lift. Powerful ďŹ&#x201A;avour impact of sweet fruits and licorice with seamless integration of acid and tannins. $59.99 Paringa Estate Mornington Peninsula Pinot Noir 2014 â&#x2DC;&#x2026;â&#x2DC;&#x2026;â&#x2DC;&#x2026;â&#x2DC;&#x2026;1/2 A big chunky wine that's "progressing well" and has loads of spice with an abundance of vital varietal fruit characters with some great, and well integrated, tannins. $65

Lupe-Cholet Mercurey Bourgogne Mercurey Pinot Noir 2014 â&#x2DC;&#x2026;â&#x2DC;&#x2026;â&#x2DC;&#x2026;â&#x2DC;&#x2026; A gamey nose with char grilled/leathery elements. A "straight up and down" fruit driven palate with a drying ďŹ nish. $70 Handpicked Capella Vineyard Mornington Peninsula Pinot Noir 2015 â&#x2DC;&#x2026;â&#x2DC;&#x2026;â&#x2DC;&#x2026;1/2 A muscular wine with sweet varietal fruit at its savoury heart. "At its best now so drink up!" advised one judge. $59.99 Handpicked Collection Mornington Peninsula Pinot Noir 2015 â&#x2DC;&#x2026;â&#x2DC;&#x2026;â&#x2DC;&#x2026;1/2 A brooding savoury style with typical gamey/meaty pinot characters and some dark fruits. Lovely soft drinking. $59.99

Foxeys Hangout Kentucky Road 777 Mornington Peninsula Pinot Noir 2015 â&#x2DC;&#x2026;â&#x2DC;&#x2026;â&#x2DC;&#x2026;1/2 One judge described this wine as, "A subtle, coy wine that is yet to fully reveal itself. Has plenty left in the tank". $65

Red Hill Estate Single Vineyard Mornington Peninsula Pinot Noir 2015 â&#x2DC;&#x2026;â&#x2DC;&#x2026;â&#x2DC;&#x2026; Secondary characters developing on the cooked fruit nose. Big generous sweet fruit ďŹ&#x201A;avours. $70

Domaine de Bellene Maison Dieu Bourgogne Pinot Noir 2015 â&#x2DC;&#x2026;â&#x2DC;&#x2026;â&#x2DC;&#x2026; Cherry cola nose and simple flavour profile; some varietal characters but not overly complex. $55

Lupe-Cholet Les Pictons Savigny Les Beaune Pinot Noir 2014 â&#x2DC;&#x2026;â&#x2DC;&#x2026;â&#x2DC;&#x2026; Herbal characters dominate the nose and has upfront, drying oak tannins on the spicy palate. $82.50

Paringa Estate Estate Mornington Peninsula Pinot Noir 2015 â&#x2DC;&#x2026;â&#x2DC;&#x2026;â&#x2DC;&#x2026; A smooth balanced style offering "a taste of the earth" and showing a hint of age. $65

We are delighted to announce our upcoming Business Luncheon for November on

â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;Translational Medical Research and the Way Forwardâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; ZLWK 3URI 7RE\ &RDWHV 3URI *X\ 0DGGHUQ 3URI &DWKHULQH +LOO

WHEN: Monday, 20th November 2017

WHERE: InterContinental Adelaide

TICKETS: $165 for Members of the AICC, $180 for Non-Members Sponsored by The Hospital Research Foundation Bookings can be made via our website, www.aicc.org.au, where you can also find any other information regarding the Chamber around Australia

Australia Israel Chamber of Commerce (SA/NT) Inc. A: 239 Magill Road, Maylands 5069 P: 0411 113 749 E: executive@aiccsa.org.au W: www.aicc.org.au

November/December 2017

W I N E S TAT E

155 TASTED 112 AWARDED

C H A M PA G N E & S PA R K L I N G A very strong class of sparkling wines and champagne, showing the craft of the winemakers. Prosecco seems on the up and champagne always seems to have that edge of character.

SPARKING UNDER $10

SPARKLING ROSÉ

4 TASTED 2 AWARDED

20 TASTED 8 AWARDED

Great value and pleasant

The judges were

drinking for the two that

disappointed with this

got through at this price.

group. Good wines few

Whispers South Eastern Australia Sparkling White NV ★★★ Lemon sherbet bouquet; a hint of quince. Clean and fresh in the mouth. Good acid/sugar balance. $5 South Point Estate SEA BEST VALUE Sparkling BUYS Chardonnay Pinot Noir NV ★★★ Lemon tart-like aromas and persistent citrus rind ﬂavours on a complex and creamy palate. $5.99

Ninth Island Tasmania Cuvée Rosé NV ★★★★1/2 A serious wine. Lovely salmon pink with a touch of strawberries on the nose. Soft and round in the mouth and showing strawberry shortcake-like ﬂavour complexity. $25

and far between here. A real mixed bag of pink to orange coloured wines with too many overdeveloped, lacking fresh ﬂavours. "This is where non-vintage wines go to die," quipped one judge. Kreglinger Tasmania Vintage Rosé 2006 ★★★★★ Attractive secondary characters on the nose. Soft and creamy in the mouth. Great mousse explodes in the mouth and generous citrussy ﬂavours are edged with Vegemite-like complexity. $70

Sidewood Estate Isabella Adelaide Hills Sparkling Rosé 2013 ★★★★ Oranges and citrus blossom lift off the nose with a big, ﬂavoursome, ripe fruit palate; a touch sweet with slightly tart acidity. $30 Jacob's Creek SEA Sparkling Rosé NV ★★★ "Birthday party pink!" Sweet strawberry aromas. Simple candied fruit ﬂavours and crisp acidity. $14.99

Hand Crafted by Geoff Hardy South Australia Sparkling Salmon NV ★★★ Generous lifted strawberry bouquet and zesty red fruit ﬂavours; some complexity developing. $25 Akarua Central Otago Rosé Brut NV ★★★ Fresh berries and cherries on both the nose and palate with some mouth-watering acidity. $34 NZ Clover Hill Tasmania Brut Rosé 2013 ★★★ A supple textured wine with an interesting mix of peach, strawberry and biscuity characters. $70 Taltarni Australia Cuvée Rosé 2012 ★★★ Pungent minerally aromas with simple strawberry fruit ﬂavours and good yeast autolysis. $26

SPARKLING $10-$20 11 TASTED 10 AWARDED Consistent range of commercial sparkling wines. "Surprising to see some yeast autolysis in a few, with retained freshness," said one judge. "Good to see these were dry, rather than using sugar to make up for fruit flavours." Jacob's Creek Brut Cuvee SEA Chardonnay Pinot Noir NV ★★★★ A simple citrus nose with some nice aged notes. Creamy texture to the long lingering palate with mouthfilling citrus-driven flavours. $14.99 Yarra Burn Premium Cuvee Australia Pinot Noir Chardonnay NV ★★★★ Complex and creamy style with intense racy lemon citrus characters, showing some toastiness and has a fresh acid line. $17

JUDGES - DAY 1 Bryan Widstrand Pipers Brook Senior winemaker. Formerly Assistant winemaker at Pomar Junction winery in Paso Robles, California. Trained under Professor Jim Schumate, Oenologist, Cal Poli, University. Has currently been working with Natalie Fryer, formerly chief sparkling winemaker of Yalumba wines.

W I N E S TAT E

November/December 2017

Brock Harrison Sparkling and full-bodied white winemaker for Pernod Ricard Wines. Hes been a judge at the Royal Adelaide and associate judge at the Royal Melbourne, Canberra International Riesling Challenge and Barossa and Adelaide Hills wine shows.

Dan Pritchard Master of Oenology. Sparkling winemaker for Treasury Wines Group. Also involved with Limestone Coast wines, Jamieson's Run and Robertson's Well. Associate judge at the Inland wine show.

varietal tasting Trentham Estate Murray Darling Chardonnay Pinot Noir Brut NV ★★★1/2 Creamy buttery style with a complex and developed nutty nose and has a yeasty/ quince-like flavour profile. $16 Pioneer Road South Australia Brut Cuvee NV ★★★1/2 Bright up-front honeyed/ dried fruit bouquet with a big rich flavour profile on a well-structured, nicely textured palate. $18 Jacob's Creek Trilogy Cuvee Brut SEA Pinot Noir Chardonnay Pinot Meunier NV ★★★ Subtle floral fragrances and long pretty delicate floral/cherry blossom flavours. $16.99

Syn McLaren BEST VALUE Vale Cuvée BUYS Blanc NV ★★★ A big simple wine, quite sweet with pear and apple-like aromas and ﬂavours. $18 Villa Maria Private Bin Lightly Sparkling Marlborough Sparkling Sauvignon Blanc 2016 ★★★ Nice muscaty/tropical aromas with a grassy/ passionfruit palate. Unorthodox but well done. $14.99 Saint Clair Vicar's Choice Sauvignon Blanc Bubbles Marlborough Sparkling Sauvignon Blanc 2016 ★★★ Peachy/tropical fragrances and sweet apple and pear-like ﬂavours. Some cellaring potential. 3-5 $19.50 NZ Jacob's Creek Reserve SEA Chardonnay Pinot Noir 2016 ★★★ Mineral-driven style. Subtle crisp applelike fruit with hints of citrus and balanced sweetness. $19.99

NONVINTAGE SPARKLING $20-$30 16 TASTED 8 AWARDED The judges thought these a bit "hit-andST

BE Totino Cartia VALUE BUYS Adelaide Hills Sparkling Cuvee NV ★★★ A complexity of honey and nougat aromas with developed mouthcoating creamy ﬂavours. $16.99

miss". "A number of these are getting the sugar balance wrong; sometimes less is more," said one judge. "Good to see a lot more doughy/biscuity yeast

d'Arenberg Pollyanna Polly Adelaide Hills Chardonnay Pinot Noir Pinot Meunier NV ★★★★★ Delicate citrus fragrances wrapped in attractive creamy toasty yeast autolysis. Bright, fresh lemon sherbet ﬂavours on the long, balanced and quite creamy, palate. $28

VINTAGE SPARKING $20-$30 8 TASTED 7 AWARDED Excellent small class, offering excellent value at this pointy end! A cut above the nonvintage wines in this

Chain of Ponds Diva Adelaide Hills Chardonnay Pinot Noir NV ★★★★1/2 Aromas of raspberries and cherries with underlying citrus characters. Fine mousse and good intensity of fresh berry flavours with balanced sweetness. $20 Thorn-Clarke Brut Eden Valley Pinot Noir Chardonnay NV ★★★★1/2 Lovely candied nuttylike development lifts off the nose and has some powerful flavours on the creamy cashew palate with a lovely light spritzig to the finish. $22 Ninth Island Cuvée Tasmania Chardonnay Pinot Noir Pinot Meunier NV ★★★★1/2 Interesting aromas reminiscent of lemon sorbet with slight herbal edge and very light lemon/citrus flavours lifted by "razor sharp" acidity. Creamy finish. $25

price bracket. The 2013 vintage showing to be a very strong one for sparkling.

Tomich Wines Sparkling M Adelaide Hills Chardonnay Pinot Noir NV ★★★★ Pretty lifted musk stick-like aromas with a long, "serious", palate that's loaded with fresh strawberry ﬂavours and a has a fresh acid line. $22 Sidewood Estate Sparkling Adelaide Hills Pinot Noir Chardonnay NV ★★★ Simple lifted citrus bouquet and uncomplicated pure lemon ﬂavours with very grippy acidity. $20 Haha Marlborough Brut Cuvee NV ★★★ Smells of quince marmalade with a pretty creamy lemon palate. Simple but well made. $21.99 Blue Pyrenees Estate Luna Pyrenees Chardonnay Pinot Noir Pinot Meunier NV ★★★ Nose is an attractive "starburst" of spicy red cherries which is echoed on the developed palate. $26

Claymore Wines This Is Anfield Adelaide Hills Pinot Noir Chardonnay 2013 ★★★★★ A lovely wine with a fine persistent bead, some serious yeast autolysis, subtle hints of honeyed development and some zesty fresh acidity with lovely soft mouthfeel. $25 Taltarni Australia Blanc de Blancs 2013 ★★★★★ Youthful bright lemon sherbet aromas with elegant flinty fragrances and a beautifully textured palate with very fresh, elegant citrus, nutty edged flavours with a good clean acid line. $26 Yarra Burn Vintage Yarra Valley Pinot Noir Chardonnay Pinot Meunier 2013 ★★★★1/2 The creamy nose is layered with red berry fruit, toast and honeyed characters. Soft, rich and creamy in the mouth with mouthfilling sweet varietal fruit flavours. $25

autolysis creeping in here, along with good mousse retention."

November/December 2017

W I N E S TAT E

C H A M PA G N E & S PA R K L I N G MyattsField Vineyards Manjimup Sparkling Pinot Noir Chardonnay 2014 ★★★★ Very toasty and complex bouquet with good concentration of lemon cordial-like ﬂavours and attractive pinot fruit persistence underneath. $28

Syn Rouge BEST LUE Coonawarra VA BUYS Sparkling Shiraz NV ★★★1/2 9 TASTED Deep purple wine that 5 AWARDED has a lovely mix of blue fruits, spicy apples, A mixed bag! Some plums, licorice and were too concocted with some vanilla characters. $18 residual sugar to have

PROSECCO

the appropriate balance.

the International

SPARKLING RED

Others were more like Taltarni Brut Australia Chardonnay Pinot Noir Pinot Meunier 2012 ★★★★ Golden wine; creamy and toasty on the nose with a lemon curd palate that has ﬁrm phenolics and alcohol warmth on the ﬁnish. $26

still red wines rather than sparkling ones. The best, however, showed balance of freshness, sugar, tannins and red fruit ﬂavours.

Blue Pyrenees Estate Pyrenees Sparkling Shiraz NV ★★★1/2 Berries and licorice on the nose with lively dark ripe red fruit ﬂavours, soft tannins and a chocolaty ﬁnish. $32

Taltarni Tache Australia Chardonnay Pinot Noir Pinot Meunier 2012 ★★★1/2 A serious sparkling that has maintained its freshness and has great red berry fruit characters with oyster shell notes. $26 Claymore Wines Supernova Adelaide Hills Sparkling Pinot Noir Chardonnay 2013 ★★★ Developed nose; some soy sauce notes. More secondary development on the palate. Good acidity. $25

Mr Riggs Battle Axe McLaren Vale Sparkling Shiraz NV ★★★1/2 Smells of dark chocolate and raisins with earthy hints. The palate is sultry and intense with mouthcoating porty ﬂavours. $25

Barristers Block Legally Red Wrattonbully Sparkling Shiraz 2016 ★★★ Lifted blackcurrant fruit pastille/chocolate characters on nose and palate. Quite tannic. 5+ $30

16 TASTED 12 AWARDED Very interesting group of Italian/Australian prosecco styles. "Not much in it comparing contributions," said the judges. As a style these are soft, dry, easy drinking for current consumption with low sugar and low acid. Few faults here. Sensi 18k Gold Brut Trevino Prosecco 2015 ★★★★1/2 A clean fresh minerally lemon lift to the nose. Solid on the palate with mousse that "dances" in the mouth and long, bright lemon ﬂavours with balanced tannins. $14

Trentham The Family Murray Darling Prosecco NV ★★★★ A delicate and very pretty style with light zesty lemon fragrances and fresh pear ﬂavours showing nice spritz-like characters. $15

Bottega Vino BEST Dei Poeti DOC VA LUE Italy Prosecco BUYS 2016 ★★★★ Fresh and exotic style with light and pretty lemon blossom bouquet and very attractive jasmine/freesia-like ﬂoral ﬂavours. $19.99

Jacob's Creek Reserve SEA Prosecco NV ★★★1/2 Intense confectionery pear fragrances and complex minerally citrus ﬂavours with nicely balanced sweetness. $16.99 Yarra Burn Yarra Valley Prosecco NV ★★★ Aged toasty honeyed bouquet. Sweet and muscaty in the mouth with upfront zesty acidity. $9

Majella Coonawarra Sparkling Shiraz 2010 ★★★★ A big classy wine that's ready for drinking now. Lots of stewed dark raisiny fruit characters with mushroom-like development. 3-5 $30

JUDGES - DAY 2 Ed Carr Group sparkling winemaker for Accolade Wines. Has spent 30 years in sparkling wine at both Southcorp and Accolade. Regular Winestate sparkling wine & champagne judge.

W I N E S TAT E

November/December 2017

Jane Paull Freelance wine consultant, viticulturist, winemaker and wine educator. Lecturer in sensory evaluation at the International College of Hotel Management and Le Cordon Bleu. Course trainer for the Wine and Spirit Education Trust. National and regional show judge.

Bryan Widstrand Pipers Brook Senior winemaker. Formerly Assistant winemaker at Pomar Junction winery in Paso Robles, California. Trained under Professor Jim Schumate, Oenologist, Cal Poli, University. Has currently been working with Natalie Fryer, formerly chief sparkling winemaker of Yalumba wines.

varietal tasting Floreali King Valley Prosecco NV ★★★ Some very pleasant sweet citrus characters with hints of apples. Quite an abrupt finish. $12 Revino Extra Dry Montecchio Maggiore Prosecco NV ★★★ Sweet lifted lemon drop aromas and light sweet simple pineapple-like flavours. $15 Ombra Extra Dry Spumante Prosecco NV ★★★ Golden wine. Advanced honeycomb characters on the nose and developed creamy citrus flavours. $16 Famiglia Pasqua DOC Italy Prosecco NV ★★★ Bright citrus blossom fragrances and a floral edge to the long creamy palate. $21.99

OTHER EUROPEAN SPARKLING 7 TASTED 5 AWARDED Small group of mixed sparklings. B. Francois Vouvray France Blanc de Blancs Brut NV ★★★★1/2 Lovely developed toasty complexity to the nose and pleasant, lively minerally citrus fruit drive to the palate. It leans towards an oaky style. $10 Bottega Petalo Il Vino Dell' Amore Italy Sparkling Moscato NV ★★★★ Bright expressive muscat bouquet leads on to a luscious, sweet and creamy palate that has lingering muscat-like ﬂavours. $21.99

Bottega Valdobbiadene DOCG Italy Prosecco 2015 ★★★ Slight leathery/woody aromas with a nicely textured palate and rich, slightly sweet, citrus ﬂavours. $24.99

Bottega Italian Gold Reserve DOC Italy Brut NV ★★★ Intriguing nose; lemon, mineral and talc-like. Simple fruit ﬂavours and good tannin structure. $39.99

NONVINTAGE SPARKLING $30-$40 9 TASTED 8 AWARDED A step up from the previous class. "We have come a long way," said one judge. "These wines show flavour complexity with the benefit of blending batches; well done!" Pirie Traditional Method Tasmania Brut NV ★★★★1/2 Toasty/mushroomy aromas threaded through with gunflintlike elements. Palate described by one judge as being like, "Angel food cake with lemon and strawberry tea"! $32.99

Bisol Crede Brut Valdobbiadene Prosecco Di Valdobbiadene 2015 ★★★ Golden hues with ﬂinty lemon fragrances and fresh lively palate. Easy drinking. $29.95 Bisol Salis Dry Valdobbiadene Prosecco Di Valdobbiadene 2014 ★★★ Interesting wine; smells of talc and scented candle wax and tastes of sandalwood and pine cones! $29.95

Sensi Spumante Pinot Noir Rosé Brut NV ★★★ Somewhat jammy fruit aromas with a full and ﬂeshy sweet strawberry palate. $20

Veuve Olivier France & Spain BEST LUE Sparkling Brut VA BUYS NV ★★★1/2 Good bead, nice nutty development on the nose, persistent ﬂavours, some obvious oak and crisp acidity. $7.99

Centennial Vineyards Brut Traditionelle Southern Highlands Pinot Noir Chardonnay Pinot Meunier NV ★★★★1/2 An attractive, dry and complex style. The toasty nutty nose has smoky notes and shows nice honeyed/ butterscotch ﬂavour development balanced by bright acidity. $33 Bay Of Fires Cuvee Tasmania Pinot Noir Chardonnay NV ★★★★1/2 Somewhat closed nose with nutty notes and herbal hints. The creamy palate shows a persistent mix of herbal, spicy, toasty characters with a light acid backbone. $35 Clover Hill Tasmania Chardonnay Pinot Noir Pinot Meunier NV ★★★★1/2 Long, interesting and very sophisticated wine showing lovely bronze hues. It has sensual aromas and dark earthy strawberry flavours with good supporting acidity. $35

Majella Minuet Coonawarra Sparkling Riesling NV ★★★ Citrus/lemon characters across the nose and palate. Some yeasty elements and fresh mineral notes. $30 Abel's Tempest Tasmania Chardonnay Pinot Noir NV ★★★ Fresh, light and citrussy style with gentle floral fragrances and lively flavour profile. $32

VINTAGE SPARKLING $30-$40 12 TASTED 7 AWARDED Some performed well here, whilst others (predominantly the blanc de blancs) showed obvious wine making faults. The older wines exhibited more complexity and generally had a good level of yeast autolysis.

Akarua Central Otago Brut NV ★★★★ Nose is a fragrant mix of French toast and lemons with similar characters ﬂowing through on to the fresh palate. "Wonderful!" $37 NZ Grant Burge Australia Pinot Noir Chardonnay NV ★★★1/2 Delicate light citric/talc aromas and good toasty/ nutty ﬂavour persistence with a reasonable amount of acid. $30

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C H A M PA G N E & S PA R K L I N G Steels Gate Yarra Valley Blanc de Blanc 2013 ★★★1/2 Biscuity croissant on the nose, touched by light toffee notes. Palate long, bold and toasty with plenty of oak. $39.95 Blue Pyrenees Estate Vintage Brut Pyrenees Chardonnay Pinot Noir Pinot Meunier 2012 ★★★1/2 Minerally lemon nose with floral notes and creamy/yeasty palate complexity with obvious sweet peach flavours. $32 Wicks Estate Pamela Adelaide Hills Chardonnay Pinot Noir 2012 ★★★★1/2 Sophisticated style. A complexity of nutty nougat aromas. Plenty of oak on the palate matched by some powerful red fruit characters. Good acidity. Balancing tannins. $30

Nicholson River Winery Gippsland Sparkling Pinot Noir Chardonnay 2011 ★★★1/2 Nose like Vegemite on toast. Attractive complexity to the palate with fabulous flavour profile. Some sweetness. $39 Seppelt Salinger Henty Drumborg Chardonnay Pinot Noir 2013 ★★★ A wine with elegance and complexity, great yeast autolysis and soft cashew/custardy flavours. $30 Pipers Brook Vineyard Vintage Cuvée Tasmania Pinot Noir Chardonnay 2010 ★★★ Long, elegant and interesting sparkling with nutty nougat characters and good acid line. $39

Saracen Estates Maree Margaret River Sparkling 2010 ★★★★1/2 A lifted buttery lemon brulee-like bouquet. Those attractive buttery characters follow through onto the still quite youthful palate and wrapped in sherbety-like acidity. $38

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November/December 2017

Clover Hill Tasmania Chardonnay Pinot Noir Pinot Meunier 2012 ★★★1/2 Slightly warm, ripe and rich with developed lychee/nougat aromas and great ﬂavour proﬁle on a slightly oily palate. $50

SPARKLING $40+ 12 TASTED 12 AWARDED A very strong and consistent class. "Nice elegance, yet also

Akarua Bannockburn Vintage Brut 2011 ★★★1/2 Delicate ginger and jasmine fragrances. Light and bright in the mouth with a long balanced ﬂavour proﬁle. $48 NZ

complexity across the range with depth of flavour a feature," noted one judge. House of Arras EJ Carr LD Tasmania Chardonnay Pinot Noir 2003 ★★★★★ Fabulous toasty development here. The nose is all nougat and toast with hints of honeysuckle which carries through to the palate with its very persistent flavours and lovely lemon notes. $185 Centennial Vineyards Southern Highlands Blanc de Blancs NV ★★★★1/2 Massive yeast autolysis lifts off the nose. The palate is lean, tight and complex with a rich persistence of 'roasted corn-like' flavours and hints of cloves. $40 Kreglinger Vintage Cuvée Tasmania Pinot Noir Chardonnay 2007 ★★★★1/2 A tight, complex and "energetic" style with a delicate yeasty/nutty bouquet and hints of white fruit flavours on the palate. Oak evident and some great acidity. $55 Centennial Vineyards Southern Highlands Blanc de Noirs NV ★★★★ Flinty fragrances layered with sweet stonefruits and toasty notes. The palate is complex and rich with good fruit and acid persistence. $40

Saint Clair Dawn Methode Traditionnelle Marlborough Sparkling Chardonnay 2013 ★★★★ A nose smelling of fresh bread and flowers. Palate still young for a 4-year old. Some good yeast autolysis and bright acidity. $49.99 NZ House of Arras Grand Vintage Tasmania Chardonnay Pinot Noir 2008 ★★★★ A classic sparkling. Great brioche characters on the nose. Lovely drive and complexity of toasty/mushroom/oysterlike flavours. $77 Clover Hill Prestige Tasmania Blanc de Blancs 2005 ★★★★ Aged fruit aromas with hints of banana and vanilla characters. Big but simple flavour persistence with fresh batter-like yeastiness. $150 House of Arras Brut Elite Cuvee 1301 Tasmania Pinot Noir Chardonnay Pinot Meunier NV ★★★1/2 Chalky talc-like characters on the nose. Nice balance between the dosage and acidity on a soft creamy palate. $50

Heemskerk Tasmania Chardonnay Pinot Noir 2012 ★★★ A light, elegant style with high level of acidity. Citrussy aromas and pleasant creamy fruit ﬂavours. $60 Clover Hill Tasmania Blanc de Blancs 2010 ★★★ Aged toasty/nutty nose; some quinces and pineapple. Complex buttery honeyed fruit ﬂavours. $70

MOSCATO 4 TASTED 3 AWARDED Some pleasant sweet quaffers here. Claire Creek Sparkling SEA Moscato Rosa NV ★★★ Medium pink wine that's sweet, round and creamy with lychee and strawberry characters. $4.99 Claire Creek BEST SEA Sparkling VA LUE BUYS Moscato NV ★★★ Floral fragrances with a slight mineral edge. The palate is luscious and full of great ﬂavours. $4.99

varietal tasting Jacob's Creek SEA Sparkling Moscato NV ★★★ Youthful and pretty wine with limes and lemons on the nose and palate and ﬂoral nuances. $14.99

CHAMPAGNE ROSÉ 5 TASTED 5 AWARDED

Perrier Jouet Blaison Champagne Brut Rosé NV ★★★ A complex, vibrant and long style that's relatively youthful and full of strawberry sherbet-like fruit. $109.99

CHAMPAGNE UNDER $100 16 TASTED 15 AWARDED

An excellent and strong bracket of serious rosé

A very consistent class

wines. "Don't confuse

across the board, as

table rosés with these,"

to be expected. The

said the judges. "These

judges liked the yeast

are drier, more savoury

complexity here. "We

styles with only a hint

almost take the length

of red fruits," said one

and complexity for

judge.

granted here," said one judge. "A great class to

Pierre Gimonnet & Fils Cuvée Rosé de Blancs 1er Cru Rosé Brut NV ★★★★★ An elegant savoury wine with bronze hues. Light savoury bouquet showing some age. Palate is long with an interesting mix of cassis, anise, orange and molasses characters. $62.35 Besserat De Bellefon France Brut Rosé NV ★★★★ Smells sweet and yeasty with caramelised notes evident on the ﬂeshy/ toasty palate. Attractive breadiness and hints of pears. $110 G.H Mumm Champagne Brut Rosé NV ★★★ Earthy red berry nose and full of pleasant strawberry jam and yeasty ﬂavours. $87.99 Champagne Jeeper Grande Champagne Sparkling Rosé NV ★★★ Slight stalkiness to the nose with a fennel-like dominated palate. High level of dosage. $95

judge!" Besserat De Bellefon France Brut NV ★★★★★ A pale straw coloured champagne with huge level of yeast autolysis lifting off the nose. A very attractive palate with great creamy texture, lovely flinty/ toasty elements and citrus notes. $75.99 Pierre Gimonnet & Fils Cuvée Fleuron Brut 1er Cru Blanc de Blancs 2009 ★★★★★ A long, dry, light golden sparkling. Slightly earthy bouquet with hints of "fields of wheat". Palate has intensely fine mousse, intriguing flavours and a lovely creamy texture. $70.95 Pol Roger Vintage Brut 2008 ★★★★★ An aromatic complexity of mushrooms on toast. Gorgeous palate texture and tasting of vanilla custard layered with lemons. "A wine with great poise," according to one judge. $97.83

Champagne J. de Telmont Damery - France export@champagne-de-telmont.com +33 326 58 40 33 - www.champagne-de-telmont.com

LOOKING FOR IMPORTER IN AUSTRALIA

November/December 2017

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C H A M PA G N E & S PA R K L I N G G.H Mumm Cordon Rouge Millesime Champagne Brut 2006 ★★★★★ A toasty nougat bouquet with some oyster shell-like nuances. The elegant palate is savoury and very ﬂavoursome with some great supporting acidity underneath. $97.99

Veuve Cliquot Champagne Brut NV ★★★★1/2 Toasty nutty aromas show a hint of jasminelike floral characters. Very complex and upfront flavour profile on the bright palate that has a good level of acidity. $79.99 Champagne Jeeper Grande Reserve Brut Champagne Chardonnay NV ★★★★1/2 Light straw-like hues and quite savoury on the nose with lemon custard nuances. Lovely vibrant lifted palate that is rich with a complexity of flavours. Nice mineral line. $95

G.H Mumm Cordon Rouge Champagne Brut NV ★★★★ Slight muscat fruit-like aromas and a vibrant palate with pronounced ﬂavours of fruit skins and fruit rind layered with custard notes. $64.99 Perrier Jouet Grand Champagne Brut NV ★★★1/2 Smell like lemon curd with great length and persistence of sweet simple ﬂavours and balancing acidity. $86.99

Champagne Jeeper Grand Assemblage Brut Champagne Chardonnay Pinot Noir Pinot Meunier NV ★★★ Celery-like characters dominate the nose and are evident on the slightly mawkish palate. $83

CHAMPAGNE $100+ 6 TASTED 5 AWARDED "Woo -hoo - can we do that again," enthused one judge. "A great class of elegance combined with depth and character," said another. "These are intensely elegant and a great showcase of the terroir combined with fruit character," said the third judge.

Veuve BEST Monsigny VALUE BUYS Brut Selection Champagne Brut NV ★★★★1/2 Nutty nose with hints of persimmon fruit. Great mousse and autolysis on the ﬁne toasty palate with more of the persimmon characters evident. $19.99 Pierre Gimonnet & Fils Cuvée Cuis 1er Cru Brut Blanc de Blancs NV ★★★★1/2 A dry style that is both elegant and complex with pale golden hues. The "serious" palate is tight and ﬂavoursome with lovely mousse and excellent acidity. $54.83

Vilmart Grand Reserve France Champagne NV ★★★★1/2 Golden wine with a lovely bouquet that's all crème brulee and lemons. More of the creamy custard characters follow through on to the palate. Nice acid balance. $95

Pol Roger Réserve Brut NV ★★★★1/2 Toasty and nutty on the nose with slight smoky notes and some raisined sweetness. Quite savoury on the palate with tight acidity. Needs more time to evolve. $70.95

J. Lassalle Preference Champagne Brut NV ★★★1/2 A clean bright style, not overly complex with a minerally nose and long lingering and slightly sweet palate. $90 Moet & Chandon Imperial Champagne Brut NV ★★★ A soft and delicate champagne style. Citrus and yeast on nose and palate with crisp acidity. $64.99

Besserat De Bellefon Grand Cru France Blanc de Blanc NV ★★★★★ "A fabulous savoury champagne style." A lovely earthy expression to the savoury toasty nose. Great ﬂavours, length, incredible mousse, gorgeous toasty complexity and excellent acidity. $115

Besserat De Bellefon Cuvee Des Moines Cuvee Brut Champagne NV ★★★★★ A golden sparkling that has great power, length, persistence and balance. Layers of toffee and limes on the nose and huge expression of brown lime-like flavours. Good acid backbone. $115 Besserat De Bellefon Millesime France Brut 2006 ★★★★★ A very attractive, rich and flavoursome wine with pronounced toffee/ nougat characters on the toasty nose and a wonderful palate with hints of toffee apples and a great line of acid. $140 Pol Roger Sir Winston Churchill Cuvée 2004 ★★★★★ A lovely style that has a savoury, buttery nose showing some lovely oaky complexity which then flows through onto the long, steely palate with its slight slatey-like character. $230.05 Besserat De Bellefon Grand Cru Blanc de Noirs NV ★★★★1/2 One judge compared this nose to "Sunflower seed husks"! Moderate palate length with awesome flavour complexity with dustylike notes. Finishes a tad short. $120

STAR RATINGS ★★★★★ Three-, four- and ﬁve-star ratings are signs of excellence in fruit quality and winemaking skill. All wines are judged ‘blind’ by wine industry professionals and are compared in peer classes by three judges. CM Wine is exclusive to Cellarmasters, a major mail-order business. CD Cellar door price. CDO Cellar door only. SO Sold out. $N/A Price not available at time of printing. ☎ Contact information pg 127 -128. RECOMMENDED cellaring (years). BEST VALUE for $20 & under. For a complete list of what we tasted please refer to www.winestate.com.au

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Discover the Sensation

travelbriefs WINSOR DOBBIN

LIMESTONE COAST

HEARTY AND SIMPLE VISITORS to Naracoorte have a new wining and dining option following the opening of KALV and Co. Cafe and Wine Bar. The food is hearty and simple - think dishes like pumpkin soup or chicken schnitzels, gourmet pies, frittatas and risottos. There is a focus on Limestone Coast wines and a wide selection of cold drinks for the warmer months, including green, fruit and protein smoothies, fresh juice, iced drinks and milkshakes. The cafe is the brainchild of sisters Anna Wakeﬁeld and Vera Silvester and their husbands Les and Kevin (hence the acronym KALV). KALV and Co., 47 Ormerod St, Naracoorte; phone (08) 8762 4356 is open seven days 7am-5pm Sunday to Thursday and 7am-late Friday and Saturday.

back over the border from Victoria saw us forge some wonderful and lifelong relationships with the people here. We decided to move from the city and settle in this amazing and welcoming town of Penola. We truly adore Coonawarra and enjoy sharing all that it has to offer. Both Simon and Kerry have extensive corporate backgrounds and a passion for wine, food and bringing people together. Tours can be customised to suit visitor interests and tours cater for groups of up to six in style. Coonwarra Experiences has links with over 20 local cellar doors and tours include free pick up from accommodation within Penola/ Coonawarra. Prices range from $70-$120 per person based on group numbers and tours usually visit between six and eight tasting facilities. Optional extras include lunches, while bottled water is provided to all guests. Visit www. coonawarraexperiences.com.au.

COONAWARRA CALLING

LURE OF COUNTRY LIFE VICTORIANS Simon and Kerry Meares enjoyed their regular holiday visits to Coonawarra so much that they decided not only to move there, but also to start their own tour business. Recently launched Coonawarra Experiences is a boutique touring service that offers intimate experiences for visitors to the Limestone Coast. “We first visited Coonawarra over six years ago and after attending the Coonawarra Vignerons Cup at the Penola race course we were hooked,” Simon said. “Subsequent trips 76

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releases honour the late Jim Brand, who passed away in 2005 after a long battle with cancer. Sam Brand, director of the Brand Group, says he has been so busy with the new Jim Brand range that there has been no time to consider opening a cellar door. “It may seem a little silly but it can be easier to find our wines in Sydney than in Coonawarra,” he said. “You can maybe find our wines at Heywoods Royal Oak Hotel in Penola, or on the wine list at Pipers of Penola restaurant, but visitors who are interested are probably best trying to track me down on the phone (0488 771046).”

BRAND AWARENESS THE Brand family is a Coonawarra stalwart but the Jim Brand wine range, made by the late winemakers’s son, Sam Brand, is among the hardest to find in Coonawarra. The Brands own over 400ha of vines in Coonawarra. It sold the Brands Laira label (now owned by Casella) in 1994 and now has its own label for the first time in over two decades. The new

November/December 2017

BALNAVES of Coonawarra is one of the “must visit” cellar doors in Coonawarra and is run by a tight family unit consisting of Doug and Annette Balnaves, who work with their son and daughter Pete and Kirsty alongside winemaker of 20 years Pete Bissell. The Balnaves family settled in Penola/Coonawarra in 1855. Doug and Annette started in the wine industry in the early 1970s when they sold their farm and then planted their own vineyard. The ﬁrst Balnaves cabernet sauvignon vines were planted in 1974. The delightful cellar door sales building overlooks a tranquil pond full of bird life, and is surrounded by vineyards and over 900 beautiful rose bushes. During winter visitors can sit by an open ﬁre and are invited to enjoy a platter topped with selected cheeses and gourmet seasonal produce - available

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noon-4pm seven days a week. Children are welcome, too, with a large lawn area, toys for inside and out and activity packs. Balnaves of Coonawarra is open seven days a week - Monday to Friday: 9am5pm and weekends from noon-5pm. The Cheeky Red is a cellar door exclusive for $16 a bottle and a $200 wine from a joint Balnaves-Redman Wines super-premium project is in the pipeline. To mark the 200th anniversary of the birth of regional pioneer William Wilson, the 2016 William Wilson will be a 50-50 blend of Redman shiraz and Balnaves cabernet to be sold mainly at the two family’s cellar doors. Scotsman Wilson was the ﬁrst to discover the unique soil structure in Coonawarra (an Aboriginal name meaning “honeysuckle”). The Balnaves winery and cellar door are at 15517 Riddoch Highway, Coonawarra; phone (08) 8737 2946 or visit www. balnaves.com.au.

is the horticultural name for the waterlily that blooms with white and purple ﬂowers on John and Melissa’s property. Drink Ottelia + Eat Fodder is at 5 Memorial Drive, Coonawarra; phone (08) 8736 3170 or visit www.ottelia.com.au.

BRAND NEW LOOK

BIG ON REGIONAL FARE THE actual township of Coonawarra is the merest speck on the map but it is home to a terrific place to enjoy a mini feast - Drink Ottelia + Eat Fodder. Owned and run by former Rymill winemaker John Innes and his wife Melissa, this is the perfect cosy spot to enjoy Innes’ range of wines from throughout the Limestone Coast region paired with house-made pizzas and other gourmet delights. There is a daily menu of small and sharing plates featuring the likes of oven-roasted lamb cutlets with hummous, dumplings with confit cauliflower, fennel cream and crispy pancetta or prawns with “nonya” butter, garlic and chilli. Pizza choices are traditional, ranging from tomato, asiago cheese, pancetta, aged pecorino and roasted capsicum to blonde with olive oil, garlic, parmesan, anchovies and chilli. Don't expect to find ingredients like pineapple or chicken here! Wines range from Mount Gambier riesling to Wrattonbully merlot, along with a Coonawarra cabernet. Many of the cafe ingredients come from the Innes family garden and Ottelia Ovalifolia

THE Brands Laira cellar door is due to be given a new look by owners Casella - and winemaker Pete Weinberg is excited by the proposed changes. Curated to pair with the Brands Laira wines, the cellar door is selling ploughman lunches made by the Coonawarra Store from seasonal produce. Platters start from $25. There are several “cellar door only” wines to be discovered at cellar door, including the Old Station Riesling, Rosé and Cabernet Shiraz, the August Tide red blend, Tall Vines Shiraz and 1968 Vines Cabernet Sauvignon. Don’t expect to just turn up, however, prebooking is essential on (08) 8736 3260.

Top Left: Balnaves gourmet goodies. Bottom left: Balnaves cellar door tasting room Top and Middle: Ottelia fodder pizzas and exterior of Ottelia restaurant and wine tasting. Above: Brand's Laira cellar door tasting. Opposite page: Top Left: Exterior of KALV and Co. cafe and wine bar. Top right: Sam Brand of Jim Brand wines. Middle: Simon and Kerry Meares.

November/December 2017

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107 TASTED 74 AWARDED

L I M E S TO N E C OA S T & S U R RO U N D S Coonawarra and the wide surrounds of Limestone Coast, have always been renowned for the cabernet variety, and this tasting conﬁrms again that the region produces some of Australia's greatest cabernets. But don't forget shiraz, where the region produces great mid-weight spicier versions that also attract with a difference!

SPARKLING 10 TASTED 6 AWARDED A mixed group. A number of wines showed too much dosage sweetness to receive higher scores. While others were borderline.

Karatta Wines K Range S.S. Karatta Robe Sparkling Pinot Noir Chardonnay NV ★★★ Nose shows strong autolysis with quite a broad palate that's sweet with sufﬁcient length. $18 Barristers Block Legally Red Single Vineyard Wrattonbully Sparkling Shiraz 2016 ★★★ "A fresh primary youngster." Slight jammy nose. Good shiraz ﬂavours with nice tannin presence. $30

Majella Coonawarra Sparkling Shiraz 2010 ★★★ Delicate aromas of violets, rose petals and spices. Sweet palate with pretty ﬂoral notes. $30

RIESLING 3 TASTED 2 AWARDED A nice example of classic varietal rieslings.

Majella Minuet Coonawarra Sparkling Riesling NV ★★★1/2 A delicate, clean and pleasant drink; some slight development and subtle hints of lemon/apple varietal characters. $30

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PINOT GRIS/ GRIGIO 3 TASTED 1 AWARDED Just one worthy example. Norfolk Rise Vineyard Reserve Mount Benson Pinot Gris 2015 ★★★ "A shy restrained wine," with subtle lemon/ apricot characters and good line of acid. $25

SAUVIGNON BLANC 5 TASTED 2 AWARDED

Koonara The Golden Orb Coonawarra Sparkling Shiraz 2015 ★★★ Sweet perfumed fragrances. Good intensity and richness of primary fruit on the palate. $24.95 Oparina Methode Traditionelle Padthaway Sparkling Chardonnay 2015 ★★★ Floral/citrus bouquet and good length of racy lemon ﬂavours with very good mouthfeel. $35

Leconﬁeld Old Vines Coonawarra Riesling 2016 ★★★★ A lovely lemony zing drives this wine. Has very good palate weight. "Would work well with oysters," suggested one judge. $26

Lighter more restrained styles here. "Some more skin contact could have been useful," suggested one judge.

Hoggies Estate Coonawarra Sauvignon Blanc 2017 ★★★ Vibrant tropical aromas with a palate that is more in the grassy/citrus spectrum. $15 ST

BE Mt Monster VALUE BUYS Limestone Coast Sauvignon Blanc 2017 ★★★ Hints of grapefruit on the nose and a restrained dry and grassy/lemon-like palate. $16.95

CHARDONNAY 9 TASTED 4 AWARDED "Generally a lighter group of wines with little winemaking artefact,

Hoggies Estate Coonawarra Riesling 2016 ★★★★ Nice ﬂoral characters to the lemon fresh nose. Sweet limes and lemons in the mouth with good level of acidity to balance. $15

perhaps reﬂecting the prices on offer," said one judge.

regional tasting Morambro Creek Padthaway Chardonnay 2014 ★★★ Nice integration of oak and fruit on the nose. Rich, developed, palate with good ﬂavour length. $34.95

MERLOT 6 TASTED 3 AWARDED Most wines here were borderline examples with palate depth the deﬁning characteristics.

ROSÉ 2 TASTED 1 AWARDED

A very solid class with

showing lovely colour

the cabernet adding

and pretty balanced

depth and complexity.

primary ﬂavours.

Jip Jip Rocks Padthaway Chardonnay 2016 ★★★ A very light style. Nice freshness of pear and apricot characters. Good level of acidity. $20.95 Brand's Laira Blockers Coonawarra Chardonnay 2016 ★★★ Quite intense apricot/ pear fruit-driven wine with good use of quality oak. $24.99

Barristers Block Poetic Justice Wrattonbully Cabernet Shiraz 2016 ★★★1/2 A big ripe jammy youngster. Intense spicy dark fruit aromas and lovely richness of fruit and spice on the palate. $33

Rymill Coonawarra The Yearling Coonawarra Rosé 2017 ★★★1/2 Attractive pale pink wine with vibrant, slightly sweet, red berry primary fruit on the lifted nose and balanced palate. $15

OTHER RED VARIETALS 3 TASTED 0 AWARDED No wines made the grade here.

CABERNET BLENDS 6 TASTED 5 AWARDED

One good example

Hoggies Estate Coonawarra Chardonnay 2016 ★★★ Nice apple/pear varietal fruit here with a hint of oak and aged characters developing. $15

DiGiorgio Family Limestone Coast Merlot 2013 ★★★ Developed, mature and cedary style of merlot with dark fruit characters sitting underneath. $20

Majella Coonawarra Merlot 2015 ★★★1/2 An appealing oakdriven merlot that has plenty of personality and good dark berry fruit characters pushing through. $30

Leconﬁeld Coonawarra Cabernet Merlot 2015 ★★★1/2 A classic Bordeaux blend with light fresh berry aromas and lovely berry freshness on the palate. A well-made wine. $26

Disappointing. Norfolk Rise Vineyard Reserve Mount Benson Merlot 2015 ★★★ A generous wine with a spicy peppery nose, quite intense dark fruit ﬂavours and drying tannins. $25

The Malleea by Majella Coonawarra Cabernet Shiraz 2013 ★★★1/2 A complex, open and balanced style with a lifted red berry nose and aged dark fruit ﬂavours laced with grainy tannins. $80 The Musician by Majella Coonawarra Cabernet Shiraz 2015 ★★★ An attractive light savoury style with a fresh lifted nose and a pleasant, slightly tannic, palate. $18 Andrew Peace Wines Australia Felix Barrel Reserve Wrattonbully Cabernet Shiraz 2015 ★★★ A big intense style with plenty of meaty/licorice characters and good use of oak. $28

JUDGES Bill Hardy Corporate oenologist for Accolade Wines (formerly Constellation). 28 years’ winemaking experience in places such as McLaren Vale, WA and France. Has judged internationally (France & Japan), and been an associate senior judge at 20+ state & regional wine shows in Australia.

Sandrine Gimon Rymill Coonawarra Senior Winemaker since 2008. Previously travelled extensively, working in Romania, Swan Valley Western Australia, Languedoc Roussillon and Pomerol. Completed her wine making internship at Veuve Clicquot Ponsardin in Champagne.

November/December 2017

Leigh Francis Sensory Research Manager at the Australian Wine Research Institute (AWRI). On AWRI Teaching Advisory Panel and Technical Quality Panel. Associate judge, Adelaide wine show.

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L I M E S TO N E C OA S T & S U R R O U N D S CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2016/2015 18 TASTED 17 AWARDED "A stand-out class of wines; the jewel in the crown for this region," said one judge. "Hard

Rymill Coonawarra The Dark Horse Coonawarra Cabernet Sauvignon 2015 ★★★★★ Lovely fragrant lift of blueberries and dark fruits on the nose and a powerful, structured and beautifully "detailed" palate. It has strong drying tannins and plenty of alcohol warmth. 5+ $23

not to give any of these good scores." The judges commented on the depth and richness of fruit from the 2015 and '16 vintages. Compliments to the winemakers!

Rymill Striking Colt Coonawarra Cabernet Sauvignon 2015 ★★★★1/2 "Unashamedly cabernet," according to one judge. With its lively crunchy cassis cabernet fruit showing hints of tomato leaf. Good level of drying tannins adds deﬁnition to the wine. 5+ $20 Wolf Blass Gold Label Coonawarra Cabernet Sauvignon 2015 ★★★★1/2 Deep red wine. Lovely freshness and intensity of blackberry aromas. Well-structured sweet and spicy varietal fruit palate balanced by drying tannins with a lingering ﬁnish. $28

Leconﬁeld Hamilton Block Coonawarra Cabernet Sauvignon 2016 ★★★★★ A very pretty dark fruit/ blackcurrant bouquet and good depth and concentration of sweet primary varietal flavours on the fresh, tight and vibrant palate that has a soft tannin structure. $21

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Leconﬁeld Coonawarra Cabernet Sauvignon 2015 ★★★★1/2 A well-made deep red wine that is still tight and youthful with an intense spicy red berry bouquet. Beautifully layered palate has very fresh fruity mouthfeel. $35

Norfolk Rise Vineyard Mount Benson Cabernet Sauvignon 2015 ★★★ Strong pepper elements to the nose; more shirazlike. Good fruit intensity on the palate. 5+ $18

Norfolk Rise Vineyard Reserve Mount Benson Cabernet Sauvignon 2015 ★★★1/2 An intense, lifted, blackcurrant nose; some aged notes. Great palate - very rich with sweet fruit and minty notes. $25

Jacob's Creek Double Barrel Coonawarra Cabernet Sauvignon 2015 ★★★ A tad one dimensional but good. Fruit on the porty side with a powerful oak inﬂuence. $24.99 Karatta Wines Wildﬂowers Brush Heath Robe Cabernet Sauvignon 2015 ★★★ A huge ripe fruit style; very attractive with lovely sweet oak to balance. $25

BEST VALUE BUYS

Blickinstal Coonawarra Cabernet Sauvignon 2015 ★★★★ Big stylish wine showing seamless balance and structure with the spicy berry fruit characters nicely in check. Good drying ﬁnish. $13

Majella Coonawarra Cabernet Sauvignon 2015 ★★★ Developed oak-driven, commercial style but also has a generous amount of fruit. $35

Andrew Peace Wines Winemaker's Choice Wrattonbully Cabernet Sauvignon 2015 ★★★★ Lovely fresh blackcurrant aromas that show a hint of mint. Delightful oak/ berry fruit characters on the well-integrated palate. $18 Katnook Estate Founder's Block Coonawarra Cabernet Sauvignon 2015 ★★★★ A good commercial wine with more oak and less fruit. Quite inky on the nose with dark fruit elements and a drying tannic backbone. $20 Wood Block Wines Single Vineyard Coonawarra Cabernet Sauvignon 2015 ★★★★ Lovely seamless integration between the dark, well managed, varietal fruit, sweet oak and ﬁne tannins. Plenty of length here. $30

November/December 2017

Wolf Blass Gold Label Coonawarra Cabernet 2016 ★★★1/2 A typical youngster with pretty sweet primary fruit characters on the nose and palate and good tannin structure. $28

CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2014 & OLDER Mt Monster BEST VALUE Limestone BUYS Coast Cabernet 2016 ★★★ Surprisingly approachable for a young wine. Nice harmony between red berry richness and subtle oak. $16.95 Barristers Block Single Vineyard Wrattonbully Cabernet Sauvignon 2016 ★★★ A good wine; quite high alcohol with nice berry fruit characters and a touch of savouriness. $38

16 TASTED 13 AWARDED Great class! "Excellent balance of oak tannins here," commented one judge. "These are ageing well with nice intensity of fruit and more 'openness' than in the past. The 2014 wines are still quite shy and will promise great ageing potential."

regional tasting Koonara Wanderlust Coonawarra Cabernet Sauvignon 2014 ★★★1/2 Spices and berries on the nose and a lightweight palate with a powerful tannin structure. Needs time to settle more. $25

Brand's Laira Blockers Coonawarra Cabernet Sauvignon 2014 ★★★★★ A lovely lifted nose - all berries and savoury characters. A big palate with intense dark berry fruit ﬂavours showing hints of forest ﬂoor-like elements and plenty of excellent tannins. $24.99

Koonara Ambriel's Gift Coonawarra Cabernet Sauvignon 2014 ★★★1/2 A powerful and enjoyable drink with pure cabernet definition, plenty of oak and good richness of dark berry fruits. $40 GPL68 by Majella Coonawarra Cabernet Sauvignon 2014 ★★★★★ Lovely aromas smelling of the forest floor and layered with dark berries. Very generous and flavoursome palate with tannins kept nicely in check and a good level of acidity. $120

St Hugo Coonawarra Cabernet Sauvignon 2014 ★★★★★ Deep red wine with a beautifully brooding berry bouquet showing lovely crunchy cassislike nuances. Excellent ﬂavour intensity of sweet, very dark, berry fruits with ﬁne drying tannins. $57.99

Brand's Laira One Seven One Coonawarra Cabernet Sauvignon 2013 ★★★★★ Another generous cabernet, still quite youthful with aromas of cabernet fruit, tomato leaves and a dash of pepper which is all echoed on the very long palate with dry tannic spine. $80 James Busby The Tutor 570 Vines Coonawarra Cabernet Sauvignon 2014 ★★★★ Complex and slightly savoury with "honest" sweet, leafy, peppery cabernet characters and some aged secondary characters developing. $14

Olivia Coonawarra Cabernet Sauvignon 2013 ★★★★ Intensely rich wine with good collection of small berry aromas and ﬂavours. Palate has lovely "apple crunch" to it with high level of tannins. $19

DiGiorgio Family Limestone Coast Cabernet Sauvignon 2014 ★★★ Ripe and slightly porty red berry fruit characters with a strong oak inﬂuence. $20

McGuigan The Pioneers Coonawarra Cabernet Sauvignon 2013 ★★★★ A vibrant, generous and very flavoursome wine with gorgeous dark fruit characters, very good use of oak and smart drying tannins. $24 Punters Corner Reserve Coonawarra Cabernet Sauvignon 2013 ★★★★ A big, rich, well-made cabernet with a slightly closed nose and good peppery and spicy characters to the intensely flavoured palate. $32 Katnook Estate Coonawarra Cabernet Sauvignon 2013 ★★★★ Nose is a mix of red fruits and blackberries with hints of the forest floor. Nice combination of fruity and savoury flavours. $40

SHIRAZ & BLENDS 2016/2015 13 TASTED 11 AWARDED A solid group. "There is more to Coonawarra than cabernet and cabernet blends," suggested one judge. "These wines show a touch of pepper and spice with attractive fruit intensity." Berton Vineyards Winemakers Reserve The Black Padthaway Shiraz 2015 ★★★★★ Spicy dark berry aromas ﬁll up the glass with a palate that is big, rich and balanced with lovely intensity and integration of varietal fruit, sweet oak and soft tannins. $14 Norfolk Rise Vineyard Reserve Mount Benson Shiraz 2015 ★★★★★ "Fantastic varietal intensity here," enthused one judge "with great spicy peppery complexity". Very lifted dark berry fragrances and lovely richness of sweet dark fruit ﬂavours. $25

Kopparossa Coonawarra Cabernet Sauvignon 2012 ★★★ Very developed oaky wine but has some pleasant, dark, "bruised" fruit intensity. $40

November/December 2017

Jacob's Creek Reserve Limestone Coast Shiraz 2016 ★★★★1/2 A generous, youthful and well-balanced shiraz with excellent Rhone-like peppery characteristics. Loads of spicy dark fruits lift off the nose and ﬁll the mouth with soft ﬂavours. $17.99

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L I M E S TO N E C OA S T & S U R R O U N D S Kingston Estate Limestone Coast Shiraz 2015 ★★★★1/2 "A wine that has it altogether," according to one judge. Good spicy fruit bouquet and a raspberry-like ﬂavour proﬁle with savoury nuances and excellent mouthfeel. $18.99 Herbert Vineyard The Maze Mount Gambier Shiraz Cabernet Merlot 2015 ★★★1/2 Very primary leafy/sweet fruit characters on the nose and the generous palate. Could do with more time to settle. $30 Majella Coonawarra Shiraz 2015 ★★★1/2 An oaky nose with crushed ant-like notes. Lots of oak and acid on the palate but in balance with the "crunchy" fruit. $30

Norfolk Rise Vineyard Mount Benson Shiraz 2016 ★★★ Lots of lovely dark berry and forest ﬂoor characters here with a big hit of pepper. $18

Karatta Wines Wildﬂowers Dune Thistle Robe Shiraz 2015 ★★★ Quite advanced aged aromas but has a better palate with attractive dark fruit ﬂavours. $25

Barristers Block The Bully Single Vineyard Wrattonbully Shiraz 2016 ★★★ Very youthful and tending towards the porty side and has plenty of tannin grip. $38

SHIRAZ 2014 & OLDER

Andrew Peace Wines Winemaker's Choice Wrattonbully Shiraz 2015 ★★★ Very fresh aromatics bordering on savoury with some development on the fruit-driven palate. $18

aged, wines showing

13 TASTED 9 AWARDED Mixed results here. Some great, wellretained freshness which resulted in higher scores. A couple exhibited premature development but overall the judges found this to be an impressive line-up.

Berrigan Mt Benson Robe Syrah 2015 ★★★ A soft well-balanced wine with lovely dark fruit intensity and powerful underlying savoury notes. $24.95

Farmer's Leap Padthaway Shiraz 2013 ★★★★★ "Very shiraz," according to one judge. And almost black in colour. The wine is layered and complex and has a generous amount of plum and prune characters layered with licorice. $25

Farmer's Leap The Brave Padthaway Shiraz 2013 ★★★★★ Another youthful, almost black, wine with masses of fabulous primary fruit intensity, wrapped in a complexity of peppery/oaky characters and lots of tannins and acidity. $42

:'9:+ 95;:. ';9:8'2/' 慌뜛 䌄䝠곭殜⾲实涸⽂慌

ORCHID WINE ESTATE AUSTRALIAN WINE EXPORT SPECIALIST Hand picked resource and operate on smart way WINE TOURISM IN BAROSSA VALLEY WINE BRANDING & MARKETING OVERSEAS WINE MARKET PROMOTION WINE PACKAGING AND LOGISTIC EXPORT AND CHINA CUSTOM CLEARANCE

W I N E S TAT E

November/December 2017

ORCHID WINE ESTATE | ＋61 8 8410 4635 | www.orchidwine.com.au BAROSSA BLICKINSTAL EXPERIENCE CENTER | 261 Rifle Range Road, Barossa Valley, SA 5352

Hand picked by the experts

Atelier Original glassware featured Clarity remains after 4,000 commercial dishwasher cycles High resistance to breakages Totally transparent ultra clear glass Lead and other heavy metal free www.bormioliluigi.com Made in Italy since 1946

L I M E S TO N E C OA S T & S U R R O U N D S Rymill Coonawarra The Classic Coonawarra Shiraz 2014 ★★★ A well-structured wine. Good level of freshness. Lots of sweet ripe fruit with savoury nuances. $32

Orlando Lawson's Padthaway Shiraz 2012 ★★★★★ A very well crafted, strong and appealing shiraz that's dominated by oak with lovely oak, berry and spicy aromas and very rich concentration of delicious sweet fruit ﬂavours. $64.99

DiGiorgio Family Limestone Coast Shiraz 2013 ★★★ A spicy peppery lift to the nose. Palate still quite fresh with dark fruit and good use of oak. $20 Brand's Laira Blockers Coonawarra Shiraz 2013 ★★★ Still fresh and youthful with attractive small red fruit characters, good tannins and acidity. $24.99

Kopparossa Vintage Reserve Coonawarra Shiraz 2012 ★★★★1/2 A gorgeous, complex and beautifully aged wine with loads of dark sweet fruit, licorice elements and high level of tannins. Still has plenty of years left in it yet! $95 Kopparossa Coonawarra Shiraz 2012 ★★★★1/2 A big complex and balanced style that's "travelling well". It is still surprisingly youthful with loads of powerful oak but also a generosity of varietal fruit underneath. $40

STAR RATINGS ★★★★★

Brand's Laira Stentiford's Old Vines Coonawarra Shiraz 2013 ★★★ A generous developed style with quite complex aged fruit characters and a ﬁrm spicy ﬁnish. $80

Three-, four- and ﬁve-star ratings are signs of excellence in fruit quality and winemaking skill. All wines are judged ‘blind’ by wine industry professionals and are compared in peer classes by three judges. CM Wine is exclusive to Cellarmasters, a major mail-order business. CD Cellar door price. CDO Cellar door only. SO Sold out. $N/A Price not available at time of printing. ☎ Contact information pg 127 -128. RECOMMENDED cellaring (years). BEST VALUE for $20 & under. For a complete list of what we tasted please refer to www.winestate.com.au

Love. passion. The secret ingredients. Handmade & freshly baked. Beautifully crafted. By Blackbird - Shop 3, 44-46 King William Road, Goodwood, SA 5034 phone: +61 0402 358 002 email: cknblackbird@gmail.com #byblackbird @byblackbird

W I N E S TAT E

November/December 2017

ByBlackbird44KWR

HOW WE JUDGE WINESTATE MAGAZINE TASTING CRITERIA

OUR STAR RATING SYSTEM

Our tastings and published ratings are designed with one thing in mind: to provide a useful and genuine balanced guide on wines to our readers. In order to achieve this we follow certain procedures in an activity that is notoriously difﬁcult! There are regular criticisms of wine shows and various scoring systems; here is how we approach our tastings.

A wide selection of wines Wines are invited from any producer, provided that they meet the criteria of the class being judged. The class may be a regional, style or new release tasting and generally the wines must be available for consumers to purchase, although we have museum and rare wine tastings as well.

Awarding scores Winestate carries out the judging using Australian capital city wine show procedures; the wines are not known to the judges. The three judges taste the wines blind and assign a score without reference to each other. Once this is done, only then do they compare scores, and if there is dissension they re-taste the wines and come to an agreement. Scores are compiled using the 20-point international system: gold is 18.5 and above; silver is 17 and above and is an excellent wine; bronze is 15.5 and above and represents good wine. A reasonable, sound everydaydrinking wine scores 15 (but does not gain a medal). A bland but clean wine scores 14. Below this score

there are unpleasant ﬂavours. These ﬁnal ‘medals’ are then converted into a star rating system for publication in Winestate. A gold means 5 stars, silver is 4, and bronze is 3 stars.

advertise if they wish, their awarded wine’s review will be featured regardless of advertising. The judges’ decisions are ﬁnal and these are published according to the judges’ scores, whether advertising is taken or not.

The biggest judging system Winestate examines on average more Australasian wines per year than any other forum - more than 10,000. Compare this to the biggest show in Australia, the royal Melbourne wine show, with just over 4000 entries.

Independence of advertising Winestate does charge a nominal entrance fee for wines submitted which covers our administration costs only, and will often purchase ‘yardstick’ wines to be evaluated where we believe that these are of consumer or trade interest if these have not been entered by the wineries. In order to produce the biggest and best wine magazine, Winestate includes advertising; however, this is ﬁercely independent of any wine tasting editorial. Wine companies are advised of the blind tasting results and it is their choice to

The judges We take care in selecting our judges. But remember: judges are human and their own preference will inﬂuence their scores. We use judges with complementary backgrounds and a three-person panel for each ﬂight will include winemakers with technical expertise and often a marketing/retail expert who knows consumer tastes. Often one or more of the judges are masters of wine with vast international experience, and most judges have experience at major Australian wine shows. We are also aware of expertise. If we are judging a region, for example, we will have a winemaker judge from that region because that person knows the local style. We balance that with a judge from outside the region and generally someone with broad and mature experience.

HOW WE COMPARE Winestate Rating

Comment

Wine show Medal

International 20 Point System

100 Point System

★★★★★

Outstanding

Gold

18.5 - 20

97 - 100

★★★★1/2

Excellent

High Silver

18 - 18.4

95 - 96

★★★★

Very Good

Silver

17 - 17.9

93 - 94

★★★1/2

Good/Very Good

High Bronze

16.5 - 16.9

91 - 92

★★★

Good

Bronze

15.5 - 16.4

89 - 90

Wine judging is an inexact art, not a science - even at the highest levels of proficiency. Accordingly, Winestate uses the star rating system which reflects a range, rather than a specific point score. Point systems indicate a level of accuracy that simply does not exist.

November/December 2017

W I N E S TAT E

travelbriefs WINSOR DOBBIN

HUNTER VALLEY

Pedestal fans are supplied for each bedroom for the warmer months and you will also get a gorgeous breeze from all angles. You are close to all the attractions with many restaurants and wineries on the doorstep. The nightly weekend rate for up to two guests is from $300 (with a two-night minimum at peak times). Visit www.huntervalleystays.com.au/hunter-valleyaccommodation/colette-cottage/9.

with barbecue as well as free wiﬁ. Private decks enjoy the sweeping views of the IronBark Hill Vineyard. Prices for two-bedroom villas start from $560 for up to four guests at weekends and $448 mid-week, while onebedroom villas with showers begin from $340/$272. Visit www.stayz.com.au or www. huntervalleystays.com.au.

GET ON YOUR BIKE LOOKING for a dedicated wine and food trail for cyclists in the Hunter Valley? Head to the north-western end of Pokolbin where you’ll ﬁnd the Around Hermitage Wine and Food Trail and some memorable food and wine experiences. Download the map at www. aroundhermitage.com.au and follow the trail past some of the region’s best boutique beers, award-winning wines and top-notch cafes and restaurants. The trail also snakes past an art gallery and sculpture garden, antique store, dairy, chocolate shop, wine and cooking schools, and day spa. A great way to explore the trail is by bike on the new cycleway that runs along Hermitage Rd, linking more than a dozen wineries along the vine-lined route from the New England Highway in the north to Broke Rd in the south. There are several places where you can hire bikes on the trail.

COTTAGE CHARM COLETTE Cottage offers lovely county accommodation on the edge of the 26-ha Duview Estate on Palmers Lane in the heart of Pokolbin. Surrounded by vineyards, the cottage is in a private setting overlooking a dam with the Brokenback Ranges in the background. Accommodation is in two queen bedrooms plus a sofa bed in the dining area, along with two bathrooms, a fully-equipped kitchen and a barbecue on the veranda. There is a spacious lounge with wood-burning ﬁre, TV, DVD, iPod docking station, stereo system and an alfresco dining area. Each bedroom also has an oil heater and electric blanket to keep you cosy and warm in the winter. 86

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BREWING A NEW FUTURE IRONBARK Hill Brewhouse is the new venture of fifth-generation Hunter Valley vigneron Peter Drayton and is one of the valley’s newest beer, wine and food experiences. Offering a range of up to a dozen beers - from English ales to German brews - the brewhouse also offers wine tastings of the Peter Drayton and Falling Leaf ranges, as well as a selection of fortifieds. Wine flights are also available, served with a selection of cheese, olives and other nibbles. The Brewhouse is the place to go for fast, easy eating, with a menu including burgers, pizzas and share plates ranging from chicken wings to a ploughman’s platter. Situated at the foot of the Brokenback range on Drayton’s 40-ha vineyard, the property also contains the new contemporarystyled IronBark Hill Villas on Hermitage Rd, Pokolbin. There are six architect-designed villas with fully-equipped kitchens, including dishwasher and Nespresso coffee machine, a lounge area with a large flat-screen TV, dining area and outdoor entertainment area

November/December 2017

RECREATING THE GLORY DAYS THE former Wyndham Estate headquarters at Dalwood is set for a return to its glory days with the Iris Capital group of Sydney hotelier and developer Sam Arnaout embarking on an ambitious scheme to revamp the venue. Iris Capital is restoring the historic Hunter River frontage property with its beautiful winery buildings, still-operational vineyard, tasting cellars, picnic grounds, restaurant and function rooms. The vineyard at Dalwood-Wyndham yielded 200 tonnes of high-quality fruit during the 2017 vintage - semillon, chardonnay and shiraz grapes and the wines produced will be sold under a yet-to-be-determined brand name, at both 1 Broke Rd, Pokolbin, the Hungerford Hill cellar door and the reopened Branxton cellar door. Arnaout owns Hungerford Hill and the Sweetwater vineyard at Rothbury, as well as the Dalwood property. The wines will be made by Bryan Currie, formerly of Calabria Family Wines and McWilliam’s winemaking manager. Pernod Ricard group acquired Wyndham Estate in 1990 but it shut the estate down in 2014 and it remained in limbo until its sale to Iris Capital last December.

travelbriefs

LOCAL FARE WITH AN ASIAN TWIST HUNTERS Quarter is one of the newer places to eat in the Hunter, sharing a space with the Poole’s Rock/Cockfighter’s Ghost cellar door in Pokolbin in what used to be known as Rock. It’s a modern space with an attractive terrace where vastly experienced chef Brian Duncan serves modern Australian food with an Asian accent, featuring starters like freshlyshucked Salamanda Bay oysters with Vietnamese dressing, or spanner crab dumplings with house-smoked salmon, sweetcorn and coconut broth. Mains may include caramelised pork loin with freekeh, soubise, candied red onions and sage, or herb-crusted chicken breast with parsnips, black barley and onion jus. Diners can choose between al a carte, or a fivecourse tasting menu for $100, or $140 with matched wines. Most of the wines on the list come from Cockfighter's Ghost, Audrey Wilkinson or Poole’s Rock and Duncan’s wife and co-owner Jen is in charge of front

of house. Hunters Quarter, 576 De Beyers Rd, Pokolbin; phone (02) 4998 7776 or visit www.huntersquarter.com.

BACK IN BUSINESS WANDIN Estate is back in business after a couple of years in limbo, having been sold to Chinese businessman Lap Tung Tsoi. The 40-ha Lovedale vineyard property is now managed by Mark Allen, a Newcastle local who has held executive positions at Hunter Valley Gardens, Noah’s on the Beach and the Apollo Motel. The cellar door has been reopened seven days a week and the Wandin Cafe is back in operation for breakfast and lunch from Wednesday to Sunday. Work is under way to upgrade the 8ha old-vine vineyard and plans are in hand to capitalise on exports to China, and to boost tourism through the estate’s villa accommodation, cricket oval and Cricket Pavilion function and convention centre. Allen said Wandin Valley would have a wine portfolio of the $20 Cricketers Pavilion range, $40 to $45 Regional and $80 Reserve ranges. The estate’s wine history dates back to 1973 when Peter Dobinson planted a vineyard - Millstone. It was later purchased by Philippa and James Davern, producer of TV series A Country Practice and renamed after the ﬁctional location of the TV series. The most recent owner was investment banker Russell Leslie.

Nature’s Care. Based on the former Terrace Vale vineyard of Alain le Prince, Hunter's Dream has a stunning location on Deaseys Rd with 77ha of vines, some 40-plus years old. Visitors also have the opportunity to wander lavender fields, pick fruit from the on-site orchard, relax in a Japanese-style garden or enjoy the olive grove. The cellar door building, with floor- to-ceiling windows was launched last February and has proved popular for events and weddings. Nature’s Care is one of Australia’s largest supplement and skin care companies and says the facility is designed to bring Nature’s Care’s philosophy of natural health and vitality to life through fine wines and raw produce. The development of the estate has been overseen by general manager Kees van der Scheur using his 40 years of wine industry experience in the Hunter Valley to bring Nature’s Care’s philosophy to life. In addition to vines producing shiraz, pinot noir, semillon and chardonnay, the estate features lavender fields, tea trees and bee hives. These natural products will soon be available for sale at the cellar door, and will be used in research and development to improve existing products and help inspire new formulas. Guests are welcome yearround for wine tasting and purchasing at the cellar door, in addition to wandering the grounds and absorbing the tranquillity and beauty of the location. Visit www. huntersdream.com.au.

CARING FOR NATURE

Above left: Hunter's Dream Estate. Above right: Hunter's Dream Cellar Door. Left: Nutella Bombe Alaska from Hunter's Quarter.

HUNTER’S Dream Estate, a new name in the Hunter wine region, combines its own wines with a wellness message crafted by owner

Opposite page: Left: Around Hermitage bike trail. Top: Exterior of Colette Cottage. Right: Ironbark Hill accomodation. Bottom: Ironbark Hill Brewhouse.

November/December 2017

W I N E S TAT E

65 TASTED 59 AWARDED

H U N T E R VA L L E Y A strong result from Australia's oldest wine region here, with many desirable wines. Semillon and chardonnay are the stars but don't neglect the soft and savory reds.

VERDELHO 3 TASTED 3 AWARDED A small but good group with zesty primary fruit and well restrained

Tamburlaine Reserve Hunter Valley Verdelho 2016 ★★★1/2 Honeyed citrus/pear bouquet with spicy complexity. Palate has great ﬂavour depth and varietal expression. $33

alcohol. Drink young is the judges advice. Gartelmann Jessica Hunter Valley Verdelho 2017 ★★★★ Delicate ﬂoral fragrances with a green fruit edge. Refreshing steely green apple palate with a touch of honey and some warmth. $22

SEMILLON 2017 11 TASTED 10 AWARDED "Winemakers in the region tended to pick early this year, ending up with slightly lean and green characteristics,"

Tempus Two Copper Label Vegan Hunter Valley Verdelho 2017 ★★★★ Attractive Turkish Delight/muskylike aromas and a good green apple flavour profile with mouth-watering acid freshness. $30

noted one judge. "However overall quite a consistent group offering value for money and good cellaring opportunities."

Drayton's Family Wines Hunter Valley Semillon 2017 ★★★★1/2 A fuller fruit-driven style with delicate bright lemon fragrances and a lovely refreshing and balanced spicy pear palate. Drink now or keep for ten years! 5+ $20 Andevine Hunter Valley Semillon 2017 ★★★★ Bright citrussy nose followed by delicate, but simple, fruit ﬂavours on the classically structured Hunter semillon palate. 5+ $17.99 Tempus Two Pewter Hunter Valley Semillon 2017 ★★★★ An interesting and refreshing complexity of citrus fruit, white peaches, yoghurt and honeysuckle all balanced by good line of acidity. $34

Andevine Reserve Hunter Valley Semillon 2017 ★★★★ Simple citrus nose but the classic semillon palate offers lots more; pears, red apples, yeasty complexity and hints of honeysuckle. 5+ $35 McGuigan Bin Series 9000 Hunter Valley Semillon 2017 ★★★1/2 Limes and grapefruit on the nose and refreshing, high acid, palate with vibrant flavour profile and a crisp finish. 5+ $13 De Iuliis Hunter Valley Semillon 2017 ★★★1/2 Simple primary fruit aroma proﬁle. Palate more pronounced than the nose with some cut straw/citrus ﬂavours. $20

Drayton's Family Wines Hunter Valley Semillon Sauvignon Blanc 2017 ★★★ Simple lantana/ tobacco leaf nose and a crisp, fresh and straightforward, slightly herbaceous, palate. $20 McGuigan The Shortlist Hunter Valley Semillon 2017 ★★★ Aromas and ﬂavours in the subtle lemon/citrus spectrum. Needs several more years to shine. 5+ $29 Glandore Elliott Reserve Hunter Valley Semillon 2017 ★★★ Apple juice-like aromas with a touch of honeysuckle. Minerally palate driven by citrus fruit. 3-5 $30

Gartelmann Benjamin Single Vineyard Hunter Valley Semillon 2017 ★★★1/2 Lovely crunchy phenolic style with delicate aromas and palate offering pears and peaches. "Great with cheese!" $27

JUDGES Andrew Leembrugen Owner and winemaker for Andevine Wines. Eight vintages at McWilliam’s Mt Pleasant Hunter Valley winery. Associate judge at the Hunter Valley Wine Show. Vintages in Rhone Valley and Bordeaux.

W I N E S TAT E

November/December 2017

Andy Chen Wine & Spirit Education Trust Certiﬁed Wine Educator in both English & Mandarin. Wine and investment consultant and judge.

Stephen Knight 20 years’ experience in the wine and hospitality industries ranging from hands-on involvement in wineries, experience as a state sales manager, managing wine retail stores, and setting up and running restaurants. He is at present a freelance wine consultant.

regional tasting SEMILLON 2016 & OLDER 15 TASTED 14 AWARDED A great class with no winemaking faults. "Which is quite hard to do with an aromatic

Tyrrell's Wines Stevens Single Vineyard Hunter Valley Semillon 2011 ★★★★1/2 Masses of citrus and green apple characters with hints of peaches and a tropical lift. Starting to show some development but is still a teenager! 5+ $35

variety," said one judge. "This shows how good the wine is across the vintages with age softening out the acidity making the wines even more drinkable." Gartelmann Benjamin Hunter Valley Semillon 2011 ★★★★★ A classic, well-aged, Hunter semillon. The nose is all toasty/ stonefruit with nutty notes and honeysucklelike sweetness. The beautiful honeyed toasty ﬂavours are the highlight. $40 Mount Pleasant Elizabeth Hunter Valley Semillon 2009 ★★★★★ A poised, elegant and "charming" semillon. Nose has retained fruit weight for further ageing. Great honeyed/ toasty ﬂavours. "Still has acid crispness after all this time." 5+ $30 Saddler's Creek Classic Hunter Valley Semillon 2005 ★★★★★ Lovely toasty, richly developed aged semillon that's all secondary and tertiary characters. A great example of an aged Hunter semillon and still has a few years left in it yet! $46 Scarborough Hunter Valley Semillon 2016 ★★★★1/2 Lots of citrus, grapefruit and white peach on the intense nose. Phenolics add interest to the refreshing lemon citrus palate with nutty/toasty complexity. $23

Margan Hunter Valley Semillon 2016 ★★★★ A gorgeous complexity of green fruit, honeysuckle, toast and hazelnut aromas. Supple fruit palate balanced by crisp acidity and shows great toasty nutty age. 5+ $20 Tamburlaine Reserve Hunter Valley Semillon 2016 ★★★★ Grapefruit aromas with a nutty/smoky expression. Good upfront citrus/ apple-like ﬂavour component. Plenty of potential. 5+ $33

Tyrrell's Wines Vat 1 Hunter Valley Semillon 2012 ★★★★ Herbaceous/capsicum aromas; delicate ﬂorals underneath. A lovely classic aged semillon palate that's still youthful with years ahead. 5+ $80 Mount Pleasant Elizabeth Hunter Valley Semillon 2016 ★★★1/2 Very refreshing delicate fruity young wine. A lovely crisp vibrant drink showing a high level of acidity. 3-5 $24 RidgeView Generations Reserve Hunter Valley Semillon 2016 ★★★1/2 Overpowering herbaceousness on the nose but mostly citrus on the ﬂeshy palate. Good ageing potential. 5+ $25

Tempus Two Pewter Hunter Valley Semillon Tempus Two Pewter 2014 ★★★1/2 Hunter Valley Zesty citrus nose with Semillon hints of honeyed age 2015 ★★★★ developing. Long, round A classic citrussy nose with more of those zesty and soft in the mouth with ﬂinty nutty notes. fresh citrus characters ﬂowing through on to 5+ $34 the slightly sweet palate. 5+ $34

CHARDONNAY

Two Rivers Stones Throw Hunter Valley Semillon 2014 ★★★★ A fuller toast and honey style with delicate ﬂoral notes to the nose and interesting smoky complexity to the palate. "Needs more time." 3-5 $25 Tempus Two Pewter Hunter Valley Semillon 2013 ★★★★ Very delicate citrussy bouquet with ﬂoral hints. Very youthful crisp citrus palate with attractive phenolic notes adding complexity. 5+ $34

11 TASTED 8 AWARDED A very solid group more in the medium Chablis style rather than the rich buttery wines of the past. "A few here were chasing artefact whilst losing freshness, which let them down," commented one judge.

Tyrrell's Wines Vat 47 Hunter Valley Chardonnay 2013 ★★★★1/2 A poised and elegant chardonnay that's still very young with light honeyed citrus and cedary oak lifting off the nose and a juicy, fleshy fruit palate. Nice nuttiness. $70 RidgeView Impressions Single Vineyard Hunter Valley Chardonnay 2016 ★★★★ A light grassy style with delicate floral/ citrus fragrances and intense but delicate stonefruit flavours with a surprisingly long finish. $30 Tamburlaine Reserve Hunter Valley Chardonnay 2016 ★★★★ Delicate honeyed tropical aromas with a crisp and refreshing palate showing subtle secondary flavours. Lots of cellaring promise. $33 Tempus Two Pewter Poppy's Block Hunter Valley Chardonnay 2016 ★★★★ Pronounced smoky oak aromas and a pleasant palate with good flavour profile and plenty of well handled oak in support. 3-5 $50

Drayton's Family Wines Vineyard Reserve Hunter Valley Chardonnay 2009 ★★★1/2 A fatter, full-bodied toasty style, fully developed but still showing good varietal fruit expression and loads of honeyed notes. $45 RidgeView Impressions Single Vineyard Hunter Valley Chardonnay 2015 ★★★ A minerally chardonnay style - very young with melon/nectarine fruit intensity and hints of ﬁg. $35

ROSÉ 3 TASTED 3 AWARDED Amazing! Just three wines in the group with two ﬁve star wines and one four star. "These show how to make rosé," enthused one judge. "Yet all three were totally diverse in style."

McGuigan Personal Reserve HV Hunter Valley Chardonnay 2015 ★★★★ A balanced and interesting style that's a complex mix of varietal fruit, toasty oak and crisp acidity with good winemaking skills. $50 Saddler's Creek Wines Reserve Hunter Valley Chardonnay 2016 ★★★1/2 Lots of melon fruit characters with hints of nectarine and a citrussy core and good use of quality oak in support. 3-5 $36

November/December 2017

Glandore Regional Series Hunter Valley Rosé 2017 ★★★★★ A lovely vibrant bright pink wine; a good Provence style that is a mélange of cherry and strawberry confectionery fruit with sweet spices adding complexity. Needs food! $28 W I N E S TAT E

H U N T E R VA L L E Y Margan Hunter Valley Rosé 2015 ★★★★★ Meaty savoury aromas with mushroom-like development and complexity. Refreshing palate well integrated red fruit elements and some meaty notes with spicy nuances. $20 Saddler's Creek Wines Hunter Valley Rosé 2016 ★★★★ A very youthful wine with a light earthiness to the nose and red cherries and strawberries on the palate. Not too tannic. Good food wine. $24

Margan Hunter Valley Merlot 2015 ★★★★1/2 Plums and tobacco on the nose and mouthﬁlling savoury tannins on the intense plum palate with refreshing acidity and slight smokiness. Another good varietal. $25

OTHER RED VARIETALS & BLENDS 6 TASTED 6 AWARDED "Some great examples of alternative varieties showing the typical regional characters of mid-weight fruit plus spice," said one judge. Margan Hunter Valley Barbera 2014 ★★★★★ True to style with aromas of plums and cherries, some meatiness and a little Hunter "sweaty saddle" note. Lots of black cherries and plums on a nicely ageing palate with silky tannins. $40

Drayton's Family Wines Vineyard Reserve Hunter Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2014 ★★★★1/2 A fuller, solid wine with an abundance of intense savoury/chocolaty fruit, a touch of earthy complexity and great tannin support and a long lingering ﬁnish. 3-5 $30

Margan Hunter Valley Tempranillo Graciano Shiraz 2014 ★★★★ Simple mixed berry aromas with a touch of spice and a cherry/ plum fruit-driven palate with well integrated tannins. "Authentically Hunter!" $40

Glandore Regional Series Hunter Valley Tempranillo 2014 ★★★★ A delicate primary fruitdriven wine. Smells of earthy/spicy blackberries and has a velvety soft, savoury palate with good fruit sweetness. $28

www.winesquare.com.au wine@winesquare.com.au 02 9098 8600

W I N E S TAT E

November/December 2017

15 TASTED 14 AWARDED A strong class with a wide range of vintages showing solid fruit. "Not for the faint-hearted with

RidgeView Impressions Effen Hill Vineyard Hunter Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2015 ★★★1/2 A sour cherry/light cassis nose and a dense dark blackcurrant palate with hints of coffee-like oak notes. 3-5 $35

SYDNEY’S LARGEST INDEPENDENT PREMIUM WINE MERCHANT

SHIRAZ & BLENDS

strong tannins from the oak and the fruit skins a major factor here," said one judge. "The best wines had older oak and soft tannins matching vibrant fruit." Tyrrell's Wines Vat 8 Hunter Valley Shiraz Cabernet 2014 ★★★★★ An excellent example of style that's still young and powerful. "A good 10 years left in it yet," according to one judge. Great concentration of black fruits, chocolate and licorice. $80

“Consistently good & remarkable value.” Huon Hooke

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The wine experts agree, these award-winning wines are modestly priced and exceptional value, from a boutique, family-owned winery. ;MRIQEOIV (YRGER 'SSO I\IQTPM½IW XLI GSSP GPMQEXI SJ 3VERKI with fruit sourced from individual vineyard lots, handcrafting the wines with minimal intervention to exemplify the vineyards’ terrior.

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H U N T E R VA L L E Y Tempus Two Copper Series Hunter Valley Shiraz 2016 ★★★★1/2 Gorgeous shiraz characters reminiscent of fresh cherries, leafy blackberries, hints of rose petals, a touch of licorice and sweet spicy notes. Great potential. 5+ $30

Midnight's Promise Hunter Valley Shiraz 2013 ★★★★★ "Ticks all the boxes," said one judge. Great varietal components of berries, chocolate, trufﬂes and spices and showing great meaty development with good oak complexity. 5+ $36

Tamburlaine Reserve Hunter Valley Syrah 2016 ★★★★1/2 Blueberry aromas laced with vanilla and spices with a dash of pepper. Well integrated fruitdriven flavours enhanced by sweet spices and firm tannins. Built to last! 5+ $44 Saddler's Creek Wines Single Vineyard Hunter Valley Shiraz 2014 ★★★★1/2 Beautiful bouquet - all blackberries, plums and sweet spices with pronounced chocolaty/ cherry flavour profile and smoky oak adding complexity. 5+ $65

Margan Hunter Valley Shiraz 2015 ★★★★ Savoury, earthy and complex on the nose and tasting of sour cherries with a suggestion of sweet spices and balancing drying tannins. $25 Scarborough Hunter Valley Shiraz 2011 ★★★★ Old fashioned stylesavoury and oaky with an earthy berry bouquet and nice red/black fruit flavour profile. A few years in it yet. $25 Drayton's Family Wines Joseph Hunter Valley Shiraz 2011 ★★★★ A big dense solid wine; still amazingly youthful with attractive fragrant aromas and a silky smooth, flavoursome palate. "Lots to offer." $90 Gartelmann Wilhelm Hunter Valley Shiraz 2015 ★★★1/2 A tight berry nose with a delicate oak influence and a lean and leafy palate that has subtle tannins adding texture. 3-5 $28

Glandore Regional Series Hunter Valley Shiraz 2014 ★★★1/2 Meaty truffle-like nose and a big, vibrant and still youthful palate full of berries and licorice with a good tannin grip. $28 RidgeView Impressions Effin Hill Vineyard Hunter Valley Shiraz 2015 ★★★ Oak-driven aromas. Well balanced red fruit palate, strong oak influence and refreshing acidity. 5+ $35 Midnight's Promise Hunter Valley Shiraz 2014 ★★★ Red currant fragrances on the nose and earthy rhubarb complexity on the palate. Ageing well. $24 RidgeView Impressions Single Vineyard Hunter Valley Shiraz 2014 ★★★ More of an old fashioned oak-driven style. Still youthful but complex. Good food wine. 3-5 $35

Drayton's Family Wines William Hunter Valley Shiraz 2013 ★★★ A ﬂoral bouquet with attractive chocolaty/ savoury notes. Firm and grippy palate. Ageing well. 3-5 $60

SWEET WHITES 1 TASTED 1 AWARDED

Glandore Regional Series Hunter Valley Late Harvest Viognier 2017 ★★★★ Gorgeous complexity of sweet tropical fruits, honeysuckle-like ﬂoral elements and refreshing citrus components with great acid line to balance the sweetness. $23

Leave an Impression

Wrong Bottle? Right Wine! 2015 Impressionist Riesling Gold Medalist Voted best Eden Valley Riesling

(2017 Melbourne International Wine Competition)

www.thecollectivewinecompany.com.au

W I N E S TAT E

November/December 2017

/TheCollectiveWine

@the.collective.wine

travelbriefs WINSOR DOBBIN

NORTH EAST VICTORIA

TREADLY TOURING

BREWING A BEER FUTURE

TOURISM North East has launched its new website www.ridehighcountry.com. au giving visitors a one-stop shop for all things cycling. It covers road and mountain biking and recreational rail trails. The site is aimed at inspiring riders to travel to the High Country and also provides detailed information for seamless trip planning, with suggested cycling routes, comprehensive trail mapping, cycle-friendly accommodation options, transport providers, bike hire and cycle touring companies. The High Country is one of Australia’s leading cycling hotspots, offering a range of experiences for all levels. There are more than 250km of safe, sealed, off-road rail trails through vineyards, farmland and picturesque villages for beginners through to experienced riders. There are mountain bike hubs at Bright, Mount Beauty, Beechworth/Yackandandah, Falls Creek and Mt Buller. “The High Country has long been acknowledged as having the strongest cycle tourism credentials in the state, featuring three signature rail trails, the only internationally recognised mountain bike trails in the southern hemisphere, and the toughest and most popular road cycling rides in the country,” said Tourism North East CEO Amber Gardner. “We’re now looking to unify this signiﬁcant offering under a new regional Ride High Country brand that will lead marketing efforts to establish the High Country as the premier bike destination in Victoria,” she said.

THE newest micro-brewery in the King Valley opened earlier this year with husband and wife Nathan and Brianna Munt operating King River Brewing at the landmark former restaurant and cellar door - King Valley Cucina which closed in 2012. “Our grand opening was an exciting opportunity for local beer lovers to visit and enjoy an entire day in our beautiful beer garden, with entertainment, food and our range of beers,” Munt said. Brewery tours have been introduced and the Taproom is open noon-6pm on weekends. Visit www.kingriverbrewing.com.au. Meanwhile, one of the stars of regional Victoria’s dining scene, Tani Eat & Drink in Bright, closed at the end of April. Owners Hamish Nugent and Rachel Reed plan to shift their focus to their latest venture, Reed & Co Distilling. The distillery will relocate to a new site at 15 Wills St in the centre of Bright in a joint-venture with renowned Bright coffee roasters, Sixpence, to create the All-In-One Distillery & Roastery. Sixpence Coffee’s existing Churchill Ave location will continue to be an artisan bread,

W I N E S TAT E

pastry and coffee hub.

A CASTLE TO CALL ‘HOME’ ANYONE looking for private accommodation in a country setting that’s close to the best that Rutherglen has to offer should consider Castleview Cottage in Wahgunyah. With room for up to six people, Castleview offers chic

November/December 2017

accommodation just opposite iconic All Saints Estate winery. The cottage has three bedrooms with two bedrooms equipped with queen-sized beds and a third bedroom with two single beds. It is an easy walk for a wine tasting, grazing at the produce store or dining at one-hat restaurant The Terrace. Owned by the Brown family, which also operates All Saints and St Leonards Wines, as well as Thousand Pound wine bar in Rutherglen, the cottage is fully equipped for selfcatering and features superior bed linen and a modern bathroom. As a bonus, a complimentary bottle of wine is included. Castleview Cottage prices start from $180 per night and you’ll find it on Carlyle Rd, Wahgunyah; phone (02) 6035 2222 or visit www.castleviewcottage.com.au.

FOCUS ON FOOD RIPE @ Buller Wines has been an instant success. After just a few months it has become a popular lunch-time destination, with plans to soon offer a farm-gate experience. So busy have Gavin Swalwell and Fiona Myers - the team behind the successful Taste @ Rutherglen and Rutherglen Brewery - been that they have had to put those properties on the market. “The main focus of most visitors is to do the wineries, so lunch is more of an informal experience, and our price point is quite moderate,” Swalwell said. “We’re informal but still decant wines, still have linen, homebaked bread and all those things. We try not to be intimidating and offer a unique experience of being able to have the kids run around and kick a footy on the grounds out the front, while parents sit in here enjoying a nice meal.” The couple is also keen to develop a farm-gate facility. “It’s still early days but we have almost a football ovalsized market garden outside. The idea is our gardener will have picked the fresh vegies in season to sell to visitors and down the track we might have a petting zoo for kids.” The restaurant is open for lunch 11am-3pm, Wednesday to Sunday, with menu options

travelbriefs

including a shared ploughman’s platter, entrees like house-made gnocchi with roasted pumpkin, Meredith fetta, almonds, olives and nut brown butter. Mains include saltimbocca of Murray Valley pork with smoked cauliﬂower puree and muscatpoached quince. Desserts may include coconut and lime creme brulee or muscatsteeped bread and butter pudding with butterscotch sauce. The next door tasting facility offers the chance to sample awardwinning muscats and topaques for which the Rutherglen region has gained international recognition, as well as a 2001 sparkling shiraz and a trophy-winning pedro ximinez. Buller, 2804 Federation Way (formerly Three Chain Rd); phone (02) 6032 9660 or visit www.bullerwines.com.au. The cellar door is open seven days 10am-5pm.

REVIVING A LOCAL ICON MOUNT Ophir Estate, a striking property outside Rutherglen, is being given a new lease on life. The estate was established in 1891 as a farm and vineyard, and a French provincial tower and a winemaking facility were constructed in 1903. At that stage, the building was the largest state-of-the-art wine producing complex in the southern

hemisphere, boasting 300ha of vines. But Mount Ophir winery closed in 1955 and the estate was reduced to 57ha. Today, the estate is in the process of being completely renovated and is operating as an exclusive site for private events, including weddings, as well as offering a range of luxury accommodation. Sheep, geese, guinea fowl, and peacocks roam the estate. Among the accommodation options are the Winemakers’ Cottage, part of the original winery with a loft bedroom and orchard views only for adults, it costs $160 a night. The Residence is the original estate homestead and can accommodate up to 10 people in ﬁve bedrooms (most with en suites), with a fully-equipped country kitchen, laundry, lounge and dining room. Rates are from $500 per night and children are welcome. The Gatehouse is situated on a secluded country lane and is a self-contained house which comfortably accommodates eight people and costs from $380. Two other options, The Tower and The Lodge, should be open by the end of the year along with the Pickers Cottage, which can hold 18 people and is ideal for corporate functions. All Saints Estate owners and siblings Eliza, Angela and Nicholas Brown have been renovating the

property for more than a year after buying it in 2016. “Mount Ophir Estate is truly a magical and unique property which we are now proud custodians of,” said Nick Brown. “We hope to share this property with others, so they can share the beauty and watch the transformation.” Mount Ophir Estate,168 Stillards Lane, Rutherglen. www. mountophirestate.com.au.

I N F L U E N C E D BY ITA L I A N FLAVOURS VISITORS to the King Valley should make a beeline for the Mountain View Hotel, a boutique gastro-pub owned by the Pizzini family of Pizzini Wines. Set among beautiful established gardens in the village of Whitfield, the pub offers Italian-influenced dishes that can be enjoyed in the bar, dining area or a scenic beer garden. The gastropub menu is available for lunch and dinner seven days. There is a selection of share plates like wagyu carpaccio and salted cod, several pasta dishes like linguine with meatballs, mains including roasted Milawa half chicken and double-roasted pork knuckle as well as pub classics like pies, sausages and burgers. There is a range of Pizzini and Lana wines, along with offerings from locals, including Sam Miranda, Politini and beers from Bright Brewery, Bridge Road Brewers and King River Brewing. Lachy Cashman is the new head chef and Mario Mori is the restaurant manager. The Mountain View, 4 King Valley Rd, Whitfield; phone (03) 5729 8270 or visit www.mvhotel.com.au. Top left & right: Lunch at the Mountain View Hotel in Whitfield in the beer garden. Above left: Buller Wines cellar door and gardens. Left: Mount Ophir Estate. Opposite page; Top: Interior of Castleview Cottage. Bottom: Murray to Mountains Rail Trial.

November/December 2017

W I N E S TAT E

71 TASTED 50 AWARDED

N O RT H - E A S T V I C TO R I A Gapsted Valley Selection King Valley Riesling 2017 ★★★ Very young with pronounced acidity and subtle ﬂinty citrus fruit characters. $18

Victoria's North-East is getting a name for itself for alternative red and white varietals along with some nice prosecco styles. Of course it is also difﬁcult to go past the traditional world class fortiﬁeds of Rutherglen and we continue to be amazed that there is any of this "liquid gold" left to buy!

SPARKLING 7 TASTED 6 AWARDED The judges found this to be a nice group of very drinkable wines. "This is

Chrismont La Zona King Valley Prosecco NV ★★★1/2 Tangy lemon sherbet-like nose; bright crisp appley palate. "Everything you want from a prosecco," said one judge. $22

the region you look to for Prosecco," said one judge. Anderson Rutherglen Sparkling Chenin Blanc 2011 ★★★★ A pleasant, delicate sparkling with a floral/ citrus fruit-driven nose and upfront sweet fruit palate with bright acidity. Very approachable! $27 Anderson Rutherglen Sparkling Durif 2006 ★★★★ A complex, dark and earthy sparkling with fine bubbles, spicy sweet aromas and savoury chocolaty flavours with subtle tannins. $39

Brown Brothers King Valley Prosecco NV ★★★ More complex in style while still retaining its zesty up-front tropical appeal. $18.80 Brown Brothers King Valley Pinot Noir Chardonnay Pinot Meunier Brut NV ★★★ Nice buttery complexity to the nose and full-ﬂavoured palate showing some age. Good acidity. $25

Gapsted Wines Limited Release King Valley Fiano 2017 ★★★ Vibrant tropical bouquet with a lively apple/ lemony palate that is still evolving. $25

Gapsted Wines BEST Tobacco Road VA LUE BUYS King Valley Prosecco NV ★★★ A light-bodied wine with subtle aromas and ﬂavours and some bottle age developing. $16

OTHER WHITE VARIETALS & BLENDS 10 TASTED 7 AWARDED Some nice examples here. "It is encouraging to see such a range of different varietals," said one judge. Buller Wines Limited Release King Valley Sauvignon Blanc 2017 ★★★★ "Nice old fashioned style," said one judge. A simple wine with grassy asparagus varietal characters, a pungent note and good acidity. $22

Chrismont King Valley Riesling 2016 ★★★★ Subtle ﬂoral/citrus fragrances with some age "sneaking in". Great purity of riesling fruit on the palate with tangy lemony acidity. $17

Chrismont La Zona King Valley Fiano 2016 ★★★ A full-ﬂavoured, toasty style with the acid keeping the wine bright and alive. $26 Willem Kurt Alpine Valleys Vermentino 2016 ★★★ A lovely simple quaffer with some subtle olive and herbal savoury characters. $26

Scion Single Vineyard Rutherglen Viognier 2016 ★★★1/2 Starts with an apricot varietal ﬂourish with nice textural elements to the developed palate and oak in the background. $32

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November/December 2017

Daniel Balzer Owner/winemaker at Willem Kurt Wines, Beechworth. Has judged at Rutherglen, Cowra and Victorian wine shows. Previously winemaker at Gapsted Wines and Sam Miranda, and has vintaged in Rheinpfalz, Germany.

Warren Proft Winemaker at Chrismont Wines, has worked three vintages in Spain and 14 in the King Valley producing predominately Italian and Spanish varietals. Has judged at the Mediterranean Wine Show and as an associate judge at the Rutherglen Wine Show.

regional tasting PINOT GRIS/ PINOT GRIGIO 6 TASTED 4 AWARDED A mixed range of styles although not showing huge ﬂavours they

All Saints Estate Wahgunyah Marsanne 2015 ★★★★★ A lovely, lively, complex wine smelling and tasting of honeysuckle and citrus zest with a smoky edge and a ﬂoral lift and is wrapped up in bright crunchy acidity. $25

exhibited good purity of varietal characters. Gapsted Wines Tobacco Road King Valley Pinot Grigio 2017 ★★★★ A nose that shows a nice lift of pears and spices. The palate is zesty and crisp with depth of flavour and "snappy" acidity. $16 Gapsted BEST Wines Valley VALUE BUYS Selection King Valley Pinot Gris 2017 ★★★1/2 Nutty savoury nose and slightly rich, complex, palate. Has a degree of lusciousness and shows plenty of potential. $18 Brown Brothers 1889 King Valley Pinot Grigio 2016 ★★★ A generous style of grigio with a fruit-driven nose and full on flavoursome palate. $18.30 Chrismont King Valley Pinot Gris 2015 ★★★ Toasty/nutty aromas with a touch of honeysuckle. Palate big on flavour and complexity. $26

MARSANNE & BLENDS 2 TASTED 2 AWARDED This is an iconic white variety for Victoria. Great to see a couple of excellent examples from the North-East.

Rutherglen Estates Shelley's Block Rutherglen Marsanne Viognier Roussanne 2016 ★★★★ A warm, rich, generous and nicely textured wine that's a touch sweet and cloying with obvious oak and good fruit intensity. $19

CHARDONNAY 6 TASTED 2 AWARDED Disappointing overall; most either lacked balance or character although there were two great wines.

ROSÉ 3 TASTED 2 AWARDED Two high quality examples of rosé that showed vibrancy and good, balanced, acid/ sugar levels. Rutherglen Estates Rutherglen Grenache Rosé 2017 ★★★★ Pale pink wine with fragrances of raspberries and cherries. Fuller style palate; confectionery fruit ﬂavours and good sugar/ acid balance. $15 Gapsted Wines Tobacco Road BEST VALUE King Valley BUYS Rutherglen Sangiovese Rosé 2017 ★★★★ A subtle, ﬁne boned and lively strawberries and cream style with light confectionery characters with plenty of bright acidity to balance. $16

Chrismont La Zona King Valley Sagrantino 2013 ★★★★1/2 Balanced medium bodied wine. "Hugely drinkable," according to one judge. The highly spicy varietal fruit characters show an exotic element with some herbal notes. $30 Chrismont La Zona King Valley Barbera 2015 ★★★★ Stalky blackberry bouquet with loads of spice and some sweetness and lovely bright tight medium bodied dried herb/spice palate. $26 Morris of Rutherglen Bin 80 Rutherglen Blue Imperial 2013 ★★★1/2 An individual style that's, "blossoming with age". It has a spicy porty/licorice nose and a powerful tannic palate. $25 Eaglerange Estate 3 Daughters Limited Release Alpine Valleys Tempranillo 2015 ★★★ A very big red with an earthy/meaty nose and has a big, deep, dark ﬂavour impact. $25

Willem Kurt Beechworth Chardonnay 2016 ★★★★★ "Excellent looking wine," commented one judge. "Some obvious winemaking artefact," thought another. It is savoury in style with toasty complexity developing and good crisp acidity. $34

OTHER RED VARIETALS & BLENDS

Morris The Percheron Five Generations Victoria Chardonnay 2013 ★★★★1/2 Nose is a lovely mélange of stonefruit, grapefruit, vanilla and some toastiness. Good buttery lemon curd-like ﬂavours with a "fantastic" crisp clean acid line. $25

these varieties across a

The judges expected

range of micro-climates.

more from this ﬂight

6 TASTED 5 AWARDED A strong class from some good warmer vintages. The region has

SHIRAZ/SYRAH & BLENDS 8 TASTED 3 AWARDED

shown it can produce

with perhaps, the Boynton's Feathertop Limited Release Alpine Valleys Tempranillo 2015 ★★★★1/2 A delightful fruit-driven style that doesn't rely on oak. It has chocolaty/ licorice characters on the nose and lively fullﬂavoured varietal palate with a drying tannic ﬁnish. $30

phenolics overdone and with a question about stems from one judge! Baileys of Glenrowan Organic Glenrowan Shiraz 2015 ★★★★1/2 A lovely youthful light to medium-bodied wine with ﬁne, simple and very attractive varietal fruit characters. Some fruit cake notes on the nose and fruity rich on the juicy palate. $28

November/December 2017

Brown Brothers Single Vineyard Milawa Shiraz Mondeuse Cabernet 2013 ★★★ Fresh oaky/fruit nose and big generous palate with an obvious herbal thread. $90 Morris of Rutherglen Bin 186 Rutherglen Shiraz 2013 ★★★ Plenty of red currant/ black berry fruit, lots of oak and ﬁrm tannins. Has potential for further ageing. $26

CABERNET SAUVIGNON & BLENDS 5 TASTED 4 AWARDED

All Saints Estate Pierre Wahgunyah Cabernet Merlot Cabernet Franc 2015 ★★★★★ "A winemaker's wine," according to one judge. A very smart blend with excellent balance of bright black and red fruits, loads of spice, well-handled oak and ﬁne tannins. $36 Buller Wines Balladeer Rutherglen Cabernet Sauvignon 2015 ★★★★ Smells of blackberries and licorice with a hint of mint. Attractive toasty/ vanilla oak obvious on the full bodied palate with grainy tannins. $28 Morris of Rutherglen Basket Press Rutherglen Cabernet Sauvignon 2012 ★★★★ Black fruit and licorice strap nose with Bonox nuances. Well-structured palate with "rustic" tannins and dried herbs an added feature. $25

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N O R T H E A S T V I C TO R I A Boynton's Feathertop Alpine Valleys Cabernet Sauvignon 2015 ★★★ An interesting wine with oak dominating the ﬂoral fruit. Good cabernet structure. $30

DURIF 6 TASTED 4 AWARDED

Scion Single Vineyard Rutherglen Durif 2015 ★★★★★ "A most elegant example of durif." Big dense fruit compote of a nose with hints of licorice, earth and tar. Glorious ripe fruit and subtle oak palate with tannins kept well under control. $42

Buller Wines Balladeer Rutherglen Durif 2015 ★★★★1/2 Lots of lovely spicy blue fruit characters here. Has spicy/licorice aromas and flavours of blackcurrants with a medicinal element and attractive dusty tannins. $28 All Saints Estate Family Cellar Wahgunyah Durif 2013 ★★★ "Nothing subtle here!" was one judge's comment. A tannic bomb with loads of fruit, oak and alcohol. $62

SWEET WHITE TAWNY 1 TASTED 1 AWARDED

3 TASTED 2 AWARDED

One fantastic result!

Pleasant fortiﬁeds here.

Brown Brothers Patricia Milawa Noble Riesling 2013 (250ml) ★★★★★ "A ﬁne boned wine." Still youthful and lively. Lovely crème brulee-like nose with attractive apricot botrytis characters. Great citrus peel intensity to the balanced palate with vibrant acidity. $36.70

Morris of Rutherglen Five Generations Milawa Classic Tawny NV ★★★ Heavy nutty caramelised bouquet and an oaky palate with upfront spirit and acidity. $25

Anderson Rutherglen Durif Shiraz 2010 ★★★ A big brooding old fashioned tannic style with thick black/blue fruits and stewed plum characters. $33

Swirl it. Swish it. Or just drink it. Our Tudor wines boast more than 4 x Trophies, 4 x SIWC Blue Gold Top 100, 3 x Gold and 10 x Silver medals between them. Made in cool climate Victoria, they are a favourite of experts as well as everyday wine drinkers.

Exclusive to ALDI. Available every day. ALDI supports the responsible service of alcohol. It is illegal to purchase alcohol for people under 18. Available in selected stores. See aldi.com.au for locations.

W I N E S TAT E

November/December 2017

St Leonards Vineyard Hip Sip Wahgunyah Tawny NV ★★★ A lovely example of a young, lively and pretty tawny; all ﬂorals, almonds and sultanas. $20

TOKAY/ TOPAQUE 3 TASTED 3 AWARDED Great group of world class wines. "If you don't have one in your cellar - what's wrong with you?" asked one judge. Morris of Rutherglen Cellar Reserve Rutherglen Grand Liqueur Tokay NV (500ml) ★★★★★ Gorgeous bouquet that's all ﬁg paste and jam with walnuts and golden syrup. Intensely pleasurable ﬂavours move like treacle in the mouth with a good level of freshness. $50

1299 ea

regional tasting Morris of Rutherglen Old Premium Rutherglen Rare Liqueur Tokay NV ★★★★★ A super syrupy and intensely concentrated tokay that has an extra level of complexity and wonderfully thick unctuousness of treacle/ ﬁg paste and dark chocolate. $90

Morris of Rutherglen Old Premium Rutherglen Rare Liqueur Muscat NV ★★★★★ "Excellent style!" Thick, generous and super syrupy with apparent youthful fragrances on the nose and a palate that according to one judge, "Coats the mouth and gums!". $90

Baileys of Glenrowan Founder Series Glenrowan Classic Topaque NV ★★★★1/2 Rich, beautiful and balanced with a mix of light molasses, licorice straps, caramel toffees and a dash of Chinese spices. The intense fresh spirit adds great freshness. $30

Baileys of Glenrowan Founder Series Glenrowan Classic Muscat NV ★★★★1/2 A nice chocolaty/ golden syrup rancio on the nose with charry toastiness. Simple, well balanced palate. "Perhaps could use some freshening up," thought one judge. $30

MUSCAT

Morris of Rutherglen Rutherglen Classic Liqueur Muscat NV ★★★ Very youthful and fresh with simple ﬂoral aromatics and ﬂavours that show a leathery edge. $25

5 TASTED 5 AWARDED The best here are equal, if not better, than equivalent wines from anywhere! Morris of Rutherglen Cellar Reserve Rutherglen Grand Liqueur Muscat NV (500ml) ★★★★★ "A rich and yet lifted ethereal wine of class and elegance," enthused one judge. It has an intense sweetness of spicy/figgy aromas with a floral lift and thick syrupy flavours. $50

pulpitcellars.com.au Stocking a large range of unique and premium wines

Morris of Rutherglen Black Label Rutherglen Liqueur Muscat NV ★★★ Fresh youthful toffee apple bouquet and a silky syrupy palate with high confectionery elements. $20

November/December 2017

W I N E S TAT E

travelbriefs WINSOR DOBBIN

HAWKE'S BAY

CRAFTING A NEW BEER FUTURE WELLINGTON brewery Garage Project is aiming to lift NZ craft brewing to the next level, with a new state-of-the-art operation in Napier. The Aro St brewer has partnered with bStudio in Hawke’s Bay to open a new facility

National used to have a menu that hadn’t

stocked with world-class German equipment.

changed for half a century - think servings

“They (bStudio) are essentially building the

of buttered white bread and condensed

brewery we would have built ourselves, and it

milk salad dressing. Formica tables, frosted

enables us to keep up with the demand and

lampshades, timber panelling and run by two

MAKING THE MOST OF AN URBAN SETTING

increasing popularity for our beers,” Garage

brothers who grew old with the 1930s building

Project co-founder Jos Ruffell said. “It will

on Emerson St. It closed in 2015 after 80

really help free up Aro St to keep developing

years. Now the next generation has taken over,

NAPIER has a new wine draw card with the

new ideas, keep being proliﬁc and stay

revamped and reopened. Without changing

opening of the Tony Bish Wines urban winery

independent.” bStudio co-founder, Simon

too much of the decor. “It’s an authentic

and tasting facility in the old National Tobacco

Gilbertson, said he was delighted to have

1960s dining restaurant. There’s not many of

Company Art Deco building in Ahuriri, within

Garage Project as the foundation brewers.

them around. You can recreate them but this

the Port precinct of Napier.

“We approached them before we started to

was all original. It was at that stage that we

Colloquially known as the “Rothmans”

seek their advice on what we should do and

thought about re-opening it as a restaurant.

building, the building now houses three large

what equipment we should invest in,” said

But the idea had never entered our heads

concrete eggs, barrels and other winemaking

Gilbertson. “They have turned into foundation

before then,” co-owner Kim Hooper said.

equipment. The cellar door should be open by

partners and we are very excited to help brew

Chef Glen Verner has focused on traditional

the time you read this. To celebrate the new

their wonderful beers.” In addition to the Aro

Greek food and the doors were reopened in

facility, Bish purchased a Taransaud Ovum.

St site, Garage Project last year announced

May. “I think we found out it wasn’t just our

This French oak, egg-shaped barrel is the

its new Marion St “wild” brewery in the capital,

family’s restaurant. It was Napier’s restaurant,”

only one in NZ and one of only a few in the

which is now up and brewing. bStudio at

said co-owner Lance Paxie, front-of-house

world. Bish, a chardonnay specialist, said:

Ahuriri is one of 10 micro-breweries in the

manager. The only things that are not original

“I have always wanted to create an urban

Hawke’s Bay region.

are the sound system and the bar, which was

winery in Ahuriri. It has got charm and there is a lot going on here.” While he started thinking

recently rebuilt at the rear of the restaurant.

CELEBRATING THE SIXTIES

As a nod to family history, the new owners

operating winery in urban climes about 20

IT’S not a gourmet destination but the National

include the steak with buttered bread and

years ago, it really only started to spark about

Cafe in Napier is a favourite with locals and

ﬁsh and chips with the condensed milk salad

a year ago after a conversation with building

in-the-know visitors. Described as an eatery

dressing. Visitors, however, are more likely to

owner Ray McKimm. “It is not about massive

“that time forgot sometime in the sixties” the

opt for dishes like char-grilled baby octopus,

about the concept of creating a complete

volume or trying to double production, it is about creating premium wines, with the bonus being that people will be able to call by and planned tours will take in the whole winemaking process in a clearly entertaining way,” Bish said. Further down the track there will be expansions into gourmet food and live music, he said. “I’ll be washing barrels and I’ll be hand-making wine, and the music will be going - I’ll be the artist in my own studio,” he said. Bish will continue to work with Sacred Hill. Visit tonybishwines.co.nz. 100

W I N E S TAT E

November/December 2017

have kept some of the classic dishes. These

travelbriefs

Sunday Sessions, where local DJs and musicians entertain until late during the summer, as patrons enjoy wines, platters and pizzas. Te Awanga Estate is also home to vineyard accommodation - an apartment that is situated above the cellar door and overlooks the vines. There are views of the Pacific Ocean and Cape Kidnappers, and it is only a five-minute walk to the beach. The apartment is an excellent base to visit other Hawke’s Bay attractions as it is located halfway between Hastings and Napier. 376 Parkhill Rd, Te Awanga; phone +64 6 875 0553. Another vineyard accommodation option is to be found at Craggy Range Vineyard Cottages, part of an offering that also includes a four-bedroom luxury lodge. The Cellar Masters and Vineyard Cottages both have two luxurious bedrooms, with en suites, and well-appointed kitchen and living areas. Minutes from Havelock North and 25 minutes from Napier, the cottages are well situated for guests to indulge in fly fishing, wine tours or simply relaxing in lamb kleftiko, stifado and moussaka. Perhaps

options including choc-chip pancakes with

paired with one of the growing number of

poached fruit, bacon and maple syrup, and

Greek wines on the list. The National Café is

mains featuring dishes like tuna poke with

open 4pm-9pm Tuesday to Saturday at 112

wakame, macadamia, soy and sesame

Emerson St Napier; phone +64 6-835 4763

dressing. More mainstream options include

or visit greeknationalcafe.nz.

Cloudy Bay diamond clams with turmeric, garlic and coriander, and venison loin

TOP 100 CREDENTIALS

the countryside. Guests of Craggy Range Retreats also enjoy a complimentary wine tasting of the Craggy Range single vineyard wines. And, of course, it is just a stroll to the world-renowned Terroir restaurant. Visit www.craggyrange.com/ visit/accommodation.

with roasted cauliﬂower, red cabbage, and brussel sprout leaves, while there is a

WITHIN eight months of opening, Malo

range of “beer food” snacks to accompany

restaurant at Havelock North found itself

a glass of beer or wine. Malo’s wine list has

rated among the top 100 restaurants in New

a balance of local and international wines,

Zealand. Open for breakfast, lunch and

and close to 40 are available by the glass,

dinner, Malo offers a fresh approach to the

including labels like Te Awa, Sileni and

Hawke’s Bay food and wine scene, with a

Craggy Range. The doors open at 7am for

focus on regional produce and an emphasis

breakfast. You’ll ﬁnd Malo at 4 Te Aute Rd,

on local, seasonal ﬂavours. Malo is the

Havelock North; phone +64 6 877 2009 or

restaurant venue of Havelock North’s new

visit www.malo.co.nz.

boutique hotel, Porters, and is the brainchild of restaurant manager John Logan and chef Jackson Smith, who has worked at Elephant

SETTLE IN ON SUNDAYS

Hill, Terroir at Craggy Range as well as at

TE Awanga Estate is one the “must visit”

Gastro Park in Sydney. There is a focus on

winery cellar doors in Hawke’s Bay. It is

doing things a little differently, with breakfast

home to the “world famous in Hawke’s Bay”

Top: Delicious food from Malo restaurant. Middle: Venison from Malo restaurant. Above: Craggy Range vineyard cottages. Opposite page left: Tony Bish' Ovum. Opposite page right: Porters Hotel, Napier. Opposite page bottom: Tony Bish Wines building.

November/December 2017

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99 TASTED 78 AWARDED

H A W K E S B AY Hawkes Bay enjoys the serendipitous coming together of factors that make for great wine; a very sunny climate, cooling sea breezes and a long growing season. A tapestry of different soil types; alluvial, sandy loams, red metals and stony gravels mean a host of different grape varieties ﬂourish here. Though the region is famed for long lived classic reds, our tasting showed that white wines, especially chardonnay have a very exciting future. Writing up the notes one thing stood out. Whilst there were some very highly priced super premium wines that scored highly there were a number of sub $25 reds that achieved excellent scores. This is a deﬁnite cause for celebration. Prices shown are approximate New Zealand retail. Wines available in export markets are shown as (A) Australia, (UK) and (US).

Esk Valley Verdelho 2017 ★★★★1/2 Vivid aromas of lemon and lime with some quinine too. Almost like drinking gin and tonic. A delightful textural wine with a strong acid spine that keeps the ﬂavours pristine and focussed. Really attractive. $20

OTHER WHITES 18 TASTED 12 AWARDED Hawkes Bay is carving out a reputation for superlative chardonnay but our tasting revealed it is no slouch when it comes to alternative white varieties. An excellent albarino showed great poise whilst in a region renowned for Rhone style wines, it was no surprise that marsanne and viognier were highlights.

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Villa Maria Single Vineyard Braided Gravels Albarino 2016 ★★★★★ This is delicious; excellent varietal character with lemon peel, fresh green apple and a touch of salinity. Mouthwatering acidity keeps palate bright and fresh. Strong wet stone character. Not really about the fruit but all about the texture. $30 November/December 2017

Villa Maria Cellar Selection Viognier 2016 ★★★★1/2 An appealing concentrated viognier with plenty of musk, honeysuckle and justripe apricot. Light and bright on the palate; with great depth of ﬂavour and length. Excellent value. $18

Montana Reserve Pinot Gris 2016 ★★★★ Textbook pinot gris; plenty of apple and pear tree fruits with a touch of blossom too. Ripe generous flavours yet restrained. Lovely thread of acidity running through. Nicely judged, exuberant but not over the top. $16.99 Mission Estate Gewurztraminer 2016 ★★★★ Very pretty, sitting firmly in the bourbon rose petal, white blossom spectrum, rather than the big musky end of town. Light on its feet, not too extracted with a gentle hint of sweetness. Good persistence. $15 Trinity Hill Gimblett Gravels 2016 ★★★1/2 An intriguing wine; lightly floral with some orange blossom, quince and marzipan biscotti notes. Attractive musky, generous flavours with touches of tropical mango and papaya. Delightful. $35 Church Road McDonald Series Sauvignon Blanc 2016 ★★★1/2 A barrel fermented sauvignon blanc with aromas of bran biscuit, cinnamon and nutmeg weaving through the fresh pear and red apple fruit. Bone dry with plenty of texture. A complex style of sauvignon done well. $26.60

Esk Valley Pinot Gris 2017 ★★★ Lightly fragrant with baked red apple and poached pear on the nose. Some sweetness at first that then leads to a medium dry textural palate. $20 Vidal Pinot Gris 2017 ★★★ Very youthful and still showing some banana and pear drops on the nose which will presumably disappear with time. A light, crisp style of pinot gris with an appealing pithy texture. $16 Church Road McDonald Series Pinot Gris 2016 ★★★ A deeply coloured wine with aromas of ripe pear, apple and a touch of honey too. Massive wine; fairly sweet with touches of mango, grilled pineapple and honey. Big and luxurious, almost a late harvest style. $26.60 Askerne Viognier 2016 ★★★ A lighter style of viognier with some attractive musk and jasmine aromas. Very slightly off dry though finishes clean and crisp. $22 Mission Estate Riesling 2015 ★★★ Showing quite a bit of development, with some kerosene and toasty notes emerging. Light bodied, mouthwatering acidity with just a touch of sweetness to flesh out the palate. $15

regional tasting CHARDONNAY 24 TASTED 18 AWARDED Hawke’s Bay chardonnay is in a great space right now. Producers have embraced the pungent gunflint reductive style and make wines of massive complexity, designed to be cellared. Though to be fair, the level of reduction can be a point of debate as in less experienced hands, it can overwhelm. However the tasting showed there are other styles of chardonnay being produced too, from more restrained and tightly framed through to uncomplicated, fruity wines made for early drinking. Church Road McDonald Series Chardonnay 2016 ★★★★★ A definite note of gunflint, struck match reduction with some ripe, white fleshed fruit lying beneath. Attractive red grapefruit too. Mouthwatering thread of acidity balances the creamy texture. Excellent length. Very impressive. $26.60

Villa Maria Single Vineyard Keltern Chardonnay 2016 ★★★★★ There is so much going on in this wine; aromas of acacia flower, nougat, melting butter and cashew sit alongside those of gunflint and smoke. A definite note of reduction with some smoky bacon edging in. Masses of flavour but kept from becoming too overwhelming by the floral edge. Lovely line of acidity and a long persistent finish. $50

Vidal Legacy Chardonnay 2016 ★★★★★ A complex, intricate aroma that weaves toasty new oak, struck match reduction and masses of red grapefruit and white nectarine fruit ﬂavours together to give a wine of real complexity. The oak is quite dominant at this stage but the concentration and persistence of ﬂavour suggest that with time in bottle, this wine will evolve into something very special. $60

Esk Valley Winemakers Reserve Chardonnay 2016 ★★★★★ A more restrained take on the reductive style of Chardonnay. Charming aromas of melting butter, toasted cashew and nougat with a touch of ﬂinty struck match underneath. Plenty of citrus and just-ripe stone fruit on the palate with a beautiful acid line. Really very lovely. $32

Esk Valley Chardonnay 2016 ★★★★1/2 Gently aromatic with an edge of nutmeg and cinnamon spice. Creamy and concentrated, oak comes through alongside a mealy, leesy note. Not a big wine but lovely persistence of flavour. $20 Villa Maria Reserve Hawkes Bay Chardonnay 2016 ★★★★1/2 Pungently aromatic; nougat, struck match, and a wee hint of gunflint reduction. There is some attractive white fleshed nectarine and apricot fruit too. Definite note of struck match continues on the palate, enough to maintain interest without becoming offensive. Long mineral, wet stone finish. $40

JUDGES - DAY 1 Jane Skilton MW Winestate’s New Zealand editor has worked in the wine trade for 33 years, 24 of those as a Master of Wine. She runs NZSWS, a wine education school, and judges wine competitions both at home and internationally.

Nick Picone Senior Auckland winemaker for Villa Maria Estate, Nick also has several years’ winemaking experience in Marlborough. In 2012, he became the ﬁrst New Zealand to win the Young Winemaker of the Year award, sponsored by The Wine Society.

November/December 2017

Meg Abbott Walker Sommelier and wine consultant. Has completed WSET diploma (level 4). Also worked in hospitality in Australia and New Zealand in high end restaurants. Judged with Dish and Metro magazine tastings.

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H A W K E S B AY Te Awa Chardonnay 2016 ★★★★ A powerful bold wine; lots of smoky bacon, cashew, melting butter on the nose leading to a flinty, tightly bound palate. There was discussion as to whether there was too much of the gunflint character but in the end we decided there was enough concentration of fruit to carry it. $30 Mission Estate Chardonnay 2016 ★★★★ Hint of reduction, gunflint and struck match but well done. Underneath some grapefruit, lemon and just-ripe stonefruit. Nice mealy complexity with nougat and smoke, not too much, just adds a layer of interest. Good acid spine. $25 Villa Maria Cellar Selection Chardonnay 2016 ★★★★ Very smart. There is quite a bit of oak which contributes a creamy, nutmeg note and supports the peachy, buttery fruit. Plenty of concentration and flavour here. Excellent value. $18 Pask Small Batch Wild Yeast Chardonnay 2016 ★★★1/2 Some just-ripe white stonefruit with a little grapefruit too. Attractive touch of new oak and hint of gunflint supported by a line of acidity running right through the palate. Lovely length and persistence of flavour. $25 Mission Jewelstone Chardonnay 2016 ★★★1/2 Brightly fruited with some greengage plum and red apple. There is quite a bit of oak which gives a faint mocha/ affogato note on the palate. Good length. $40

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Askerne Chardonnay 2016 ★★★1/2 A lighter, understated style of chardonnay with aromas of citrus and nectarine. Attractive ripe fruit on the palate with hints of creamed corn and melting butter. $22 Pask Declaration Chardonnay 2015 ★★★1/2 Just starting to take on some attractive bottle developed characters of toast and smoke to sit alongside those of white peach and melon. A bold, powerful wine with plenty of character. $40 Alchemy Chardonnay 2015 ★★★1/2 An understated style; there is a hint of oak on the nose plus some rock melon and pear. Decent length and intensity. Nice to see a wine with a little age. $28.50 Mills Reef Estate Chardonnay 2016 ★★★ A solid, straightforward chardonnay destined for early drinking. Ripe banana and melon with a touch of oak too. Palate has acid and drive. $19 Trinity Hill Gimblett Gravels Chardonnay 2016 ★★★ Not as opulent as some, this is a tightly bound, restrained chardonnay that has a strong grapefruit and lime character. Hint of cinnamon oak supports the fruit. Lovely mouthwatering acidity. $35

ROSÉ 4 TASTED 2 AWARDED

Esk Valley Rosé 2017 ★★★★ Pale pink. Pretty summer pudding aroma of raspberry, strawberry and rose petal. Dry and satisfying with a lovely thread of freshness. Super appealing, clean and crisp. $20 Villa Maria Private Bin Rosé 2017 ★★★1/2 Very pale pink. A dry, tight rosé, clean and crisp with some candy ﬂoss and red strawberry fruit. Uncomplicated easy drinking. $16

CABERNET SAUVIGNON & BLENDS 7 TASTED 6 AWARDED Merlot is the dominant red variety in Hawkes Bay but this bracket showed that in the right hands, cabernet sauvignon can be a real superstar variety. Beautifully managed tannins and power with restraint were hallmarks

Left Field Chardonnay 2016 ★★★ An uncomplicated fruity style of chardonnay made in an attractive, easy drinking style. Lots of peachy fruit and a nice line of acidity keeping the palate in check. $18

November/December 2017

Saint Clair Pioneer Block 17 Plateau Cabernet Merlot 2015 ★★★★ Intensely coloured with a big bold aroma; blackcurrant and blueberry fruit, with an appealing hint of graphite starting to emerge. Very polished and bold, good spine of both acid and tannin yet palate retains lovely grip and density. Quite an oaky wine but with a degree of ﬂeshiness that is appealing. $37.90

Vidal Estate Chardonnay 2016 ★★★ Floral youthful chardonnay that doesn’t have much by way of complexity but is instead straightforward and crisp. $16

of the highest scoring wines.

Villa Maria Reserve Gimblett Gravels Cabernet Sauvignon Merlot 2015 ★★★★★ Deeply fruited with plenty of dark berry and cassis fruit, a serious amount of oak and a firm, fine grained tannic backbone. A big powerful wine that has masses of concentration and power but needs time in bottle to really harmonise. $50 Vidal Legacy Cabernet Sauvignon 2014 ★★★★★ Beautiful bright colour. There is masses of fruit; redcurrant and blackcurrant with some plum and berry. There is plenty of cinnamon and spice oak cloaking the fruit, and this isn't fully integrated yet. But the finish is tremendous suggesting that with patience, this firmly structured wine will blossom into something special. $70

Mills Reef Bespoke Cabernet Sauvignon Cabernet Franc 2015 ★★★1/2 Very lifted blackcurrant fruit with a touch of florals too. Crisply fruited with firm acidity, powdery tannins across the palate. Just a wee bit dilute. $40 Saint Clair James Sinclair Cabernet Merlot 2015 ★★★1/2 Really pretty; some dark cherry and berry fruit. Touch of new oak at the back. Blueberry and sweet spice. A little grip of tannin coming through. Reasonably fleshy and bright, not particularly lengthy but attractive drinking for the middle term. $28 Mills Reef Elspeth Cabernet Sauvignon 2015 ★★★ Lovely bright juicy blueberry fruit. A firm background of tannin coming through, just a bit grippy at this stage but should ensure wine develops well. $50

regional tasting MERLOT & BLENDS 22 TASTED 18 AWARDED A very strong class that showed how far Hawkes Bay

Sileni Estate Triangle Merlot 2015 ★★★★★ Starting to show a little maturity, the dark berry and doris plum fruit has been joined by notes of savoury leather and spice. A concentrated yet elegant wine that has a lovely backbone of tannin. Good length. $33

has come with this variety. Powerfully fruited, intense wines destined for the cellar sat alongside some lovely fresh, juicy easy drinking ones. Saint Clair Pioneer Block 17 Plateau Merlot 2016 ★★★★★ Sweet vanilla oak is the most noticeable feature of the nose; overlaying the red plum and berry fruit. Tannins are well judged. Not too bold, well executed with a delightful silky quality to the fruit. Long, though admittedly quite oaky, ﬁnish. $37.90

Church Road Hawkes Bay Merlot Cabernet 2015 ★★★★★ Immense colour. Very youthful but nose packed with plum, blueberry, blackcurrant and wild raspberry. Exotic notes of sweet spice and liquorice, with enough stufﬁng to soak up the very pronounced oak. Despite being a huge wine, it retains charm and freshness. Good stuff. $20

Pukeora Ruahine Range The Benches 2013 ★★★★ No mistaking the oak here; huge amount of toast, vanilla and sweet spice. Plenty of fruit underneath; dark berry and plum with orange curacao notes. Big, chewy and dense with a long ﬁnish. $28 Villa Maria Cellar Selection Merlot Cabernet Sauvignon 2015 ★★★★ Still primary with plenty of blueberry, dark plum and berry. Quite a bit of oak layering over the fruit. The palate is chewy with ﬁnely grained tannins acting as a counterpoint to the fruit. Good length. $18 Thornbury Merlot 2016 ★★★★ Pure, attractive fragrant red berry and raspberry fruit. Not too bold, retains a sense of restraint with just a touch of cedar spiced oak in support. Silky and soft, with good concentration and length. Amazing value. $15

Te Awa Merlot Cabernet Sauvignon 2015 ★★★1/2 Very polished aroma; vanilla and coconut with blueberry and doris plum too. A layer of chewy tannin lays right across the palate giving structure. There is real concentration and intensity suggesting this is a great candidate for the cellar. $30 Saint Claire Hawkes Bay Premium Merlot 2016 ★★★1/2 Very bright and fresh with plenty of raspberry and red plum fruit, a silky texture and low impact tannins. Not particularly complex but lots of “drink me now” appeal. A fun, exuberant wine. $24.90 Pask Merlot 2014 ★★★1/2 Starting to show just a bit of age, with red fruits deﬁnitely but also an edge of leather and leaf starting to creep in. Firm on the palate, lots of chewy tannin but just enough fruit to support. Attractive drinking now. $22

Mills Reef Reserve Merlot ★★★ Very lifted blueberry and red plum with a real juicy sweetness to the aroma. Tannins bite in halfway through. Not overtly concentrated but attractive. $25 Villa Maria Private Bin Merlot 2016 ★★★ Big oaky nose, almost a touch of raspberry ripple ice cream sits alongside strawberry and red plum fruit. Chewy dense tannins. Quite a lot of wine for the price. $16 Left Field Merlot 2015 ★★★ Bright and juicy with lots of redcurrant and raspberry fruit. There is just a touch of tannin and spicy oak but very subtle; this is an appealing early drinking wine. $18

OTHER REDS 7 TASTED 5 AWARDED Although there are only relatively small

Villa Maria Reserve Gimblett Gravels Merlot 2015 ★★★★★ Big, bold and opulently fruited with plenty of cinnamon and sweet spice oak in support. Generously fruited with lovely density and some sweet slippery tannins to support. Not the boldest wine but pretty and restrained. $50

Askerne Reserve Merlot Cabernet Sauvignon Cabernet Franc Malbec 2015 ★★★★1/2 Massive opulent wine showing huge exotic almost wild notes of blueberry spice, red liquorice and star anise. Complex multidimensional wine. Welljudged tannins support rather than overwhelm the fruit. Plenty to like here. $30

Vidal Reserve Merlot Cabernet Sauvignon 2015 ★★★★ Densely fruited. Lots of blueberry, damson plum on the nose. Big, opulent, ﬂeshy characters. Lots of tannin but core of fruit seems to soak it up. Not immediately appealing and takes time to open up but grows in charm. Good length. $20 Villa Maria Private Bin Merlot Cabernet Sauvignon 2015 ★★★1/2 Lots of interest; star anise, black plum. Plenty of fruit to support the charry smoky notes. Maybe doesn’t have the length of really top examples but very appealing. $16

Sileni Estate Selection Merlot 2016 ★★★ Red fruited; lots of juicy raspberry and strawberry fruit and quite a bit of sweet cedar oak too. Attractive easy drinking, fruit is ripe as are the tannins. $20

plantings of alternative red varieties, this ﬂight showed there is much reason for excitement.

Vidal Estate Merlot Cabernet Sauvignon 2016 ★★★ Lovely ﬂoral red fruited wine; appealing and bright with a good degree of perfume and upfront charm. The tannins are quite marked; just a tad ﬁrm at present but should resolve with time in bottle. $16

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H A W K E S B AY Vidal Reserve Syrah 2015 ★★★★ Still fairly youthful and primary with masses of cracked pepper, violets and plum. A very pure style of syrah that shows so much concentration and intensity. There is plenty of potential here. $25

Trinity Hill Gimblett Gravels The Gimblett 2014 ★★★★ A very appealing aroma with a delightful touch of capsicum and leaf sitting alongside fresh blackcurrant fruit. Some violet ﬂorals too. Tannins are there but ﬁnely grained and although quite big in volume, more than balanced by weight of fruit. Great length. $35

Villa Maria Cellar Selection Gimblett Gravels Grenache 2015 ★★★★★ Very fragrant, packed with lovely lifted ﬂoral and raspberry fruit. Some white pepper and violet ﬂorals too. Decadent and juicy with a soft, plump generous palate. Really very lovely. $25

Pukeora Ruahine Range Pinot Noir 2014 ★★★ Showing quite a bit of bottle development; lots of sweet fruit, gentle leafy flavours and a touch of ripe tannin. Perfect right now but needs drinking soon. $28

SYRAH 15 TASTED 15 AWARDED Every wine entered into this ﬂight gained an award showing why so

Trinity Hill Gimblett Gravels Tempranillo 2016 ★★★★1/2 Very pretty aroma; school ink, ripe raspberry fruit and a touch of melting chocolate Touch of chewy tannin in the background but exuberant fruit dominates. Nice ripeness, very attractive with a long ﬁnish. $35

many are in love with Hawkes Bay Syrah. Whilst the impressive, concentrated wines showed brilliantly, there were some lighter fruity reds that will make glorious early drinking wines.

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Villa Maria Cellar Selection Syrah ★★★★★ Strongly aromatic; floral rose petal and lavender. Very pure, focused style of syrah, not the most concentrated wine but beautifully judged with peppery, plummy fruit supported by silky, finely grained tannin. $25 Church Road McDonald Series Hawkes Bay Syrah 2015 ★★★★★ Fruit slightly subdued at first but opens up in the glass to reveal some pretty doris plum and blueberry. A very ripe style, tannins are well judged and though they are fairly bold, they are well integrated. Excellent length. $28 Esk Valley Gimblett Gravels Syrah 2015 ★★★★1/2 Very pretty and peppery. Plenty of blackberry and plum fruit but attractive, expansive nose allows hints of lavender and violets to peep through. Definite note of warmth from alcohol, a powerfully fruited wine that has excellent concentration and length. $25

Villa Maria Reserve Gimblett Gravels Malbec 2015 ★★★★1/2 A firmly structured wine packed with boysenberry, dark plum and blueberry fruit. There is plenty of oak and tannin which, at this youthful stage, make the wine pretty hard work. But there is enough concentration to suggests that with time, the wine will blossom into something special. $60

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Mission Jewelstone Syrah 2014 ★★★★ Impenetrable colour. Quite a bit of oak here though there is some savoury leather and game starting to show alongside the fruit. Silky tannins support. Great length. $50

November/December 2017

Vidal Legacy Syrah 2014 ★★★★1/2 Going through a bit of a closed phase right now; the nose was very tight and brooding with lots of dark fruit and exotic spice but somehow buttoned down. The palate is powerful and concentrated with dense, chewy tannins quite marked. However the concentration of fruit and the long peppery sustained ﬁnish suggest this will age well. $80 Saint Clair James Sinclair Syrah 2016 ★★★★ Lovely juicy ﬂoral notes of redcurrant, raspberry and a little bit of smoky bacon in the background. Sweetly fruited, bright and juicy with just a wee hint of tannin in the background. Super delicious and fun, not going to make old bones but so lovely now. $28

Pask Declaration Syrah 2014 ★★★★ A big, ripe style of syrah with red plum and boysenberry fruit and a touch of cracked pepper. The flavours are rich and concentrated and lead to a long, lingering finish. $50 Church Road Grand Reserve Hawke Bay Syrah 2015 ★★★★ Very appealing blueberry and boysenberry with a hint of pepper and spice on the nose. Densely fruited but silky tannins give a charming textural edge to the fruit. Definitely concentrated but manages to retain a pretty floral edge. $45 Mills Reef Reserve Syrah 2016 ★★★1/2 Hint of peppery rotundone sits alongside dark plum and berry. Plenty of silky tannins, a supple wine that is light on its feet. $25 Askerne Syrah 2015 ★★★1/2 A meaty, savoury nose. Tightly structured with oak and fruit starting to integrate well. Not the most concentrated wine but well done. $22

regional tasting Pask Syrah 2016 â&#x2DC;&#x2026;â&#x2DC;&#x2026;â&#x2DC;&#x2026;1/2 Super-ripe raspberry and cherry fruit explodes on the nose. Simple and direct but with lots of appealing youthful charm. $22 Mission Estate Reserve Syrah 2016 â&#x2DC;&#x2026;â&#x2DC;&#x2026;â&#x2DC;&#x2026;1/2 Quite restrained on the nose with some blackberry and blueberry fruits and a touch of cracked pepper. The palate is dense and tannic right now but there is a lovely core of fruit sweetness underneath which suggests, with a little time in bottle, this will develop well. $25 Mills Reef Syrah 2016 â&#x2DC;&#x2026;â&#x2DC;&#x2026;â&#x2DC;&#x2026; Attractive core of red fruits with a little dried herb. Softly tannic, simply fruited but appealing. $19 Pukeora Ruahine Range Syrah 2015 â&#x2DC;&#x2026;â&#x2DC;&#x2026;â&#x2DC;&#x2026; Big bold fruit with plenty of sweet vanilla and cinnamon oak. Palate is big with tannins and fruit jockeying for position. $27

SWEET WHITES 2 TASTED 2 AWARDED

Esk Valley Late Harvest Chenin Blanc 2016 â&#x2DC;&#x2026;â&#x2DC;&#x2026;â&#x2DC;&#x2026;â&#x2DC;&#x2026; The aroma is exotic and intense; golden peach, ripe apricot, pineapple and papaya with a little hint of lanolin. Very decadent and rich but with a lovely thread of acidity that runs right across the palate keeping the wine fresh and bright. Textural and succulent, this is a really delicious late harvest wine. $30

GANTLEYS RESTAURANT

Askerne Noble Semillon 2016 â&#x2DC;&#x2026;â&#x2DC;&#x2026;â&#x2DC;&#x2026;1/2 A lighter example of botrytis semillon; manuka honey and dried apricot notes on the nose along with some hay and lemon. Moderately sweet with a pretty, delicate almost ďŹ&#x201A;oral quality. Finishes cleanly. $30

STAR RATINGS â&#x2DC;&#x2026;â&#x2DC;&#x2026;â&#x2DC;&#x2026;â&#x2DC;&#x2026;â&#x2DC;&#x2026; Three-, four- and ďŹ ve-star ratings are signs of excellence in fruit quality and winemaking skill. All wines are judged â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;blindâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; by wine industry professionals and are compared in peer classes by three judges. CM Wine is exclusive to Cellarmasters, a major mail-order business. CD Cellar door price. CDO Cellar door only. SO Sold out. $N/A Price not available at time of printing. â&#x2DC;&#x17D; Contact information pg 127 -128. RECOMMENDED cellaring (years). BEST VALUE for $20 & under. For a complete list of what we tasted please refer to www.winestate.com.au

*$17/(<6 5(67$85$17 4XHHQVWRZQ 1HZ =HDODQG 3 _ ) ( JDQWOH\V#[WUD FR Q] ZZZ JDQWOH\V FR Q] /2:%851 )(55< :,1(6 &HQWUDO 2WDJR 1HZ =HDODQG 3 ( Ă&#x20AC;QHZLQH#ORZEXUQIHUU\ FR Q] ZZZ ORZEXUQIHUU\ FR Q]

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J A N E S K I LT O N M W RECENT RELEASES This Recent Release tasting showed New Zealand’s mastery of a wide range of varieties. Whilst pungent gewurztraminer, vivid riesling and reﬁned chardonnay were exciting to taste, it was pinot noir that captured our attention. A wide spectrum of styles from full throttle, powerful wines through to textural, fragrant wines showing some whole bunch character. Prices shown are approximate New Zealand retail. Wines available in export markets are shown as (A), (UK) and (US).

½ Saint Clair Marlborough Premium Chardonnay 2016 ★★★★1/2 A world away from ‘modern’, lean gunﬂint styles of chardonnay, this is a trip down memory lane. Lots of mango and white peach fruit, with a hint of creamed corn and some melting butter notes too. A fantastic choice for those who like a bold, full-ﬂavoured chardonnay. $21.50

Sacred Hill Orange Label Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc 2017 ★★★★★ Very pungent aromas of passionfruit, red capsicum and a little snowpea too. Bright and crisp on the palate with mouthwatering gooseberry and lime ﬂavours. Lovely line of zesty acidity runs right through the palate leading to a crisp, citrus ﬁnish. A strongly appealing, direct style of Marlborough sauvignon blanc. $17

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Catalina Sounds Sounds of White Pinot Noir 2015 ★★★★★ Very deep colour. Nose is intense with masses of dark fruits; blackberry, blueberry and plum and some spicy oak too. Not a great deal of finesse but instead packed with flavour and richness. For those who like powerful, fleshy pinot noir. $47

Pegasus Bay Main Divide Gewurztraminer 2016 ★★★★1/2 Intensely aromatic; musk, jasmine and white blossom. Ripe and generously textured with apricot, gingerbread and sweet spice flavours. Definitely sitting in the medium-sweet category, this is a big, ballsy style of gewürztraminer with a long, sustained finish. Tremendous value for money. $21

Pegasus Bay Encore Noble Riesling 2016 ★★★★1/2 Masses of noble botrytis gives a real dried apricot, honey and marmalade character to the wine but there is a good degree of pure riesling character there too with ripe pineapple, citrus and even a little papaya. A lovely line of acidity runs through the wine and balances the intensely sweet flavours. $40 Pisa Range Black Poplar Block Pinot Noir 2014 ★★★★1/2 Starting to show some really lovely developed notes of forest floor, mushroom and game. There is quite a bit of oak on the palate but more than enough exotic fruit to support. Silky finely grained tannins. Great length. $56

Super Nanny Central Otago Pinot Noir 2016 ★★★★1/2 Big dense aromas of doris plum and sweet spice. Almost a bit of blueberry and damson too. Full bodied with a background of chewy tannins that carry across the palate. Still very youthful but good length suggests this wine will age well. For those who like a more full throttle style of pinot noir. $56

November/December 2017

recent releases Sacred Hill Reserve Hawkes Bay Merlot Cabernet 2016 ★★★★1/2 Attractive aromas of graphite and blueberry with a lovely ﬂoral edge of lavender. The palate carries a deﬁnite layer of oak but it is well integrated as are the silky tannins. Excellent value. $25

Saint Clair Omaka Reserve Chardonnay 2016 ★★★★ A take-no-prisoners style of chardonnay; aromas of smoky bacon and gunflint sit alongside those of ripe nectarine and red apple. Creamy and textural, with plenty of new oak in support, the densely-fruited palate leads to a long and satisfying finish. $37.90

Akitu A1 Pinot Noir 2016 ★★★★ Very fragrant with fresh redcurrant and cherry aromas sitting alongside appealing floral notes of rose petal and lavender. A hint of cinnamon spice suggests a little whole bunch influence whilst the lovely dense fruit on the palate is packed with white pepper and red cherry too. Subtle background of tannin adds support. $59.90 Akitu A2 Pinot Noir 2016 ★★★★ Made in an open textured style, this upfront Central Otago pinot has lovely raspberry and red cherry fruit with some cedar oak in support. A background of finely grained tannin gives structure. Solid effort. $39.90 Waimea Spinyback Pinot Gris 2016 ★★★★ A bright, easy drinking style of pinot gris, dry and crisp with decent concentration and intensity. Excellent value for money. $15

Catalina Sounds Sounds of White Sauvignon Blanc 2016 ★★★★ A riper, full-bodied style of sauvignon; more in the apricot and peach spectrum than citrus and grass. There is a touch of barrel-aged character, with some nutmeg notes coming through. Nicely constructed, this is an attractive wine with a long creamy finish. $31 Ceres Bannockburn Swansong Pinot Gris 2016 ★★★★ Plenty going on here; creamy, almost honeyed notes of ripe peach and apricot, touch of apple crumble and a little bit of bran biscuit. Drier than many pinot gris, this is light-bodied and floral with a long finish. $28.95 Waimea Pinot Gris 2016 ★★★★ An attractive, uncomplicated wine with some cinnamon spice sitting alongside aromas of stone fruit, jasmine and blossom. A fleshy wine with plenty of succulent white nectarine and peach fruit. $17

Pisa Range Riesling 2014 ★★★★ A gently maturing wine that is beginning to show bottle developed characters of toast, kerosene and honey, though there is some youthful freshly squeezed lime juice too. Quite a bit of complexity, the palate kept in check with a strong mineral acid line. Dryish with a long ﬁnish. $28 Nanny Goat Vineyard Pinot Noir 2016 ★★★★ Made in a very juicy, fruit-focussed upfront style, there is only a very subtle touch of tannin which means the palate remains bright and supple. Whilst not particularly complex, it has plenty of easy drinking charm. $36

½ Church Road Grand Reserve Sauvignon Blanc 2016 ★★★1/2 This wine is sure to appeal to those who like a bold, barrel inﬂuenced style of sauvignon blanc. Quite a lot going on here; powerful, complex aromas of gunﬂint and struck match sit alongside those of ripe nectarine and citrus. Dry and savoury. $40

Morepork Vineyard Pinot Gris 2017 ★★★1/2 Lightly aromatic pear and apple on the nose. Crisp and clean and although there is noticeable sweetness, it doesn’t overwhelm the palate meaning the wine is still light on its feet. $24 Saint Clair Pioneer Block 5 Bull Block Pinot Gris 2016 ★★★1/2 Starts well; touch of biscuit and spice on the nose, bright and crisp flavours leading to a fairly dry finish. Shows a degree of complexity that elevates it above more simply fruited examples. $26.90 The Elder Pinot Gris 2016 ★★★1/2 The nose exhibits some honey and spice aromas that sit alongside baked apple and pear. Not an opulent style but one showing restrained intensity and depth. Good length. $38 Misty Cove Signature Chardonnay 2016 ★★★1/2 A full-flavoured, softly textured chardonnay with plenty of ripe, fleshy stone-fruit sitting alongside some sizzling butter and cashew notes. $30 Sacred Hill Orange Label Marlborough Rosé 2017 ★★★1/2 An appealing fruity rosé that is made more interesting through the notes of dried rosemary and thyme that add a degree of complexity. Decent concentration, dry with a clean crisp finish. $17

November/December 2017

Church Road Hawkes Bay Rosé 2017 ★★★1/2 Bold red cherry and plum aromas with a touch of blueberry creeping in. Creamy, raspberry ripple flavours, soft and appealing with an off dry finish. $19.95 Rockburn The Art Pinot Noir 2016 ★★★1/2 Lifted red fruit aromas with some white pepper and dried herbs. Quite tight on the palate with plenty of tannin. Just pulls up a bit short. $75 Ceres Bannockburn Composition Pinot Noir 2015 ★★★1/2 Starting to take on some bottle developed characters of game and forest floor. Still quite a bit of tannin but nice touch of gentle ripe fruit. $20 Fifth Bridge Pinot Noir 2015 ★★★1/2 Lovely bright red fruits on the nose, with a touch of florals. Not a powerful wine but instead a pretty, silky one with a core of sweet fruit. $29.95

Catalina Sounds Pinot Noir 2016 ★★★ Nice purity of fruit, not particularly concentrated but subtle oak means the wine retains fragrance and vibrancy. Ready for drinking now. $29 Waimea Spinyback Sauvignon Blanc 2016 ★★★ Still bright and youthful with ripe lemon and lime ﬂavours. Nice thread of acidity keeps palate vibrant with a touch of boiled lollies on the ﬁnish. $15

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J A N E S K I LTO N Saint Clair James Sinclair Chardonnay 2016 ★★★ A light bodied fresh style of chardonnay with a ﬂoral, almost cucumberlike quality to the fruit. Subtle lees inﬂuence and some ageing in older oak has added a degree of complexity. $24.50

Saint Clair Pioneer Block 14 Doctors Creek Pinot Noir 2016 ★★★ Very lightly aromatic, with fruit aromas sitting in the red spectrum. Just a hint of bottle development coming through giving a forest ﬂoor, gamey edge. $37.90

Matawhero Single Vineyard Pinot Rosé 2017 ★★★ Youthful red cherry and plum aromas lead to a creamy, brightly fruited palate. Not particularly concentrated but balanced with a clean, crisp ﬁnish. $23

Aurum Organic Pinot Noir 2016 ★★★ Attractive aromas of cherry and plum with quite a bit of oak overlaying the fruit. This is built for the long haul; ﬁrm tannins give structure so whilst this Otago pinot is not so approachable now, it has the density and weight to suggest it will age well. $38

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Saint Clair Pioneer Block 22 Barn Block Pinot Noir 2016 ★★★ Strongly inﬂuenced by new oak which gives a real charry, affogatto note on the nose. Big chewy and densely fruited. $37.90

Aurum Mathilde Pinot Noir 2014 ★★★ An understated yet fragrant nose of red cherry and lavender leads to a ﬁrmly structured palate with plenty of tannin and structure supported by lots of ripe red fruit. $55

The Elder Pinot Noir 2015 ★★★ Starting to show a bit of bottle development with forest ﬂoor, button mushroom and game starting to emerge. Very sweetly fruited with ﬁne silky tannins. Not a big wine nor very complex but one with masses of charm. $62

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AUSTRALIAN & NEW ZEALAND

the wine & spirit November/December 2017 Issue 156

insider COMPLIMENTARY COPY

THE WINE & SPIRIT INSIDER IS A PROMOTIONAL GUIDE FROM THE LIQUOR TRADE TO THE CONSUMER. Winestate Publishing ABN 56 088 226 411

In this issue...

New Releases & Best Value Buys Under $20

Bardinet XO Cask Finished Fantastic richer, fuller depth of oily toffee fruit showing great structure. High spirit, but well balanced oak complexity. Has wonderful aged brandy length. BASED in Bordeaux and born in the heart of the French vineyards, Bardinet French Brandy is patiently distilled and matured in oak casks. Its delicate aroma and mellow taste are highly appreciated by connoisseurs. As well as Brandy, Bardinet distributes rum and other spirits. The group owns several brands of rum (Negrita, Dillon2, Old Nick), a brand of whiskey (Sir Edward's), a brand of vodka (Aska). Bardinet also distributes cocktails such as punch, but also cane syrups, bandages and liqueurs.

Paul Bardinet´s Genius It all began in 1857. A young distiller from Limoges, Paul Bardinet, took an interest in the sugar cane alcohol imported in old world ports from faraway islands. 'Rataﬁa' as it was then known was not considered to be of great value by the corsairs, but its apparent roughness hid great secrets. Paul managed to bring out the latent, incomparable tastes and aromas that sugar cane still gives us today to produce exquisite rums. Having become an expert spirits trader, Paul Bardinet created the emblematic 'Negrita' brand in 1857, which is now sold all over the world. Later, warehouses grew in France to handle the imports and this allowed an expansion into the bottling and blending of a full range of products. Today, they claim title to Europe's leading rum & brandy producer along with a line of other products. In 1974 it became part of Domaine de Fleurenne located in Bordeaux. In 2009, Bardinet and the company La Martiniquaise merged in a new company: the BLMD (Bardinet La Martiniquaise Distribution). Bardinet is available through Dan Murphy's. 112

The W ine & Spirit INSIDER

Bardinet VSOP A pleasant broad unctous aroma with hints of toffee. Slippery rich/sweet oily ﬂavours with mild easy drinking alcohol balance. Nice brandy aftertaste.

Bardinet XO Fragrant high spirit nose, with lovely vanillin oak and raisin fruit. Has character. Lifted brandy ﬂavour with evident oak. A great each way bet, with ice or as a mixer!

JUDGES Russell Johnson: CEO of Russell Johnson Consulting, for wine & spirit R&D. Previously with Seagram Spirits. Adelaide Wine Show judge in the brandy class. Tim Gneil: Product Manager, Tarac Technologies, responsible for blending brandies and neutral spirits. Fortiﬁed judge at Melbourne and Rutherglen wine shows. Steven Matthews: Former lecturer in hospitality studies at Regency College & Adelaide Institute of Tafe. Also former general manager of the Earl of Zetland Hotel, and malt specialist.

Brandy & Armagnac Bas-Armagnac is one of the three plantation areas in the Armagnac area where grapes for the distillation of the Armagnac eau-de-vie can be cultivated. It extends over the Landes and Gers departments and represents 57% of the vineyards. It lies in the west, beside Armagnac-Ténarèze, an undulating area; the grapes grow in acidic, argillaceous and stony ground. Like Cognac the main grape varieties used are ugni blanc (trebbiano in Australia), colombard and the original Armagnac grape, folle blanche.

Great Value Buy

Chateau du Tariquet is one of the most important distillers in the region. They regularly produce great examples of the “spirit of the grape” from their vineyard dating back to the 19th century and revived in 1939, with the Grassa family forming the company that it is now in 1972. Chateau du Tariquet is available through Dan Murphy's.

Baroque Brandy Sweet fragrant light fruit, tending to broadness. Spirited palate, showing subtle fruit and age. Savoury smoky fruit. A very good mixer option! Available at Aldi Stores - $26.99

Chateau du Tariquet Bas Armagnac XO

Chateau du Tariquet Bas Armagnac Le Legendaire

Rich spicy fruit presence, with age and integration offering a smooth aroma of richness and oily raisin fruit. Fantastic Armagnac palate with nice sweet fruit presence and complexity, with subtle dry sherry oak integration.

Shows complex aged characters. Fuller brandy depth of aromas, with dried fruit overtones. Complex dry ﬂavours with high spirit and oak creating a drier structure. Great!

Chateau du Tariquet Bas Armagnac 12 Folle Blanche

Chateau du Tariquet Bas Armagnac VSOP

Medium amber colour, with clean spirity nose. Nice dry nutty ﬂavours with ﬂoral spirit coming through and oak presence. Has character!

Pale amber, with green, gold edges, lighter pleasant all round brandy. A good introduction to the brandy spirit. Nutty style, with some honeyed dryness. Easy and pleasant. The Wine & Spirit INSIDER

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219 TASTED 132 AWARDED

NEW RELEASES Another diverse lot of wines, as expected. Once again we put 'em up and the judges knock 'em down. Luckily there are more than enough wins here for the cream to rise to the top along with some great value quaffers to buy. With its diversity new releases is always one of our most interesting tastings.

Azahara Victoria Sparkling Moscato NV ★★★1/2 Light lift of rose petal/ musky aromas and lovely fruity muscat ﬂavour proﬁle. A very nice drink - not overdone. $16

SPARKLING 8 TASTED 7 AWARDED An interesting and diverse group of wines. Freixenet Elyssia Gran Cuvee Cava Spain Brut NV ★★★★1/2 A clean, lively and classy sparkling showing a lovely complexity of toasty, yeasty mature aromas with very attractive lemon sherbet ﬂavours on the toasty palate. $20 Champagne J. De Telmont Grande Reserve Champagne Brut NV ★★★★ A complex mature champagne with attractive aged leesy aromas and a nice depth of toasty ﬂavours with a high level of acidity. $53

Katnook Founder's Block Coonawara Sparkling Shiraz 2015 ★★★ Lovely nose, smells of prunes. Excellent ﬂavours on a complex palate with drying tannins. $23

OTHER WHITE VARIETALS & BLENDS 9 TASTED 3 AWARDED The judges were disappointed with this group of whites. Some oxidised imports let the

Trentham The Family Maestri Murray Darling Frizzante 2017 ★★★ Dark brooding fruit nose and a simple confectionery sweet primary fruit palate. $15

Champagne J. De Telmont Grand Champagne Rosé Brut NV ★★★★ "A serious wine!" thought one judge. Lovely strawberry complexity on the nose and distinctive champagne ﬂavours on a dry palate. $80

side down. Others had a general lack of varietal characters. "If you call it a varietal it should at least have varietal characters," said one judge.

Artwine Adelaide Hills Prosecco 2017 ★★★ A pleasant zesty fresh drink with full fruity aromas with a soft ﬂavoursome palate. $25

Hand Crafted by Geoff Hardy Adelaide Hills Arneis 2017 ★★★1/2 Big tropical bouquet and nice ﬂoral length to the fresh lively palate with its clean acid and slight grippy edge. $25 Tamburlaine Wine Lovers Orange Gewurztraminer 2017 ★★★ An elegant wine with fresh and alert green fruit characters with a mineral element. $22

JUDGES - DAY 1 Bill Hardy

Steve Warrick

James Evers

Corporate oenologist for

Wine marketer with

Senior Winemaker,

Accolade Wines (formerly

20 years experience

Nepenthe Wines and

Constellation). 28 years’

in McLaren Vale,

Australian Vintage (SA

winemaking experience in

Coonawarra, Adelaide

Premiums for 11 years).

places such as McLaren Vale,

Hills and Margaret

Previously winemaker

Western Australia and France.

River. Extensive wine

at Mildara, Coonawarra

Has judged internationally

judging experience at

and Glendonbrook and

(France and Japan), and been

the Adelaide, Hobart

Rothbury in the Hunter

an associate or senior judge at

and McLaren Vale wine

Valley.

more than 20 state and regional

shows.

wine shows in Australia.

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The W ine & Spirit INSIDER

wine & spirit insider tasting Artwine Wicked Stepmother Clare Valley Fiano 2017 ★★★ Light fruit salad nose and palate. "Excellent quaffer that's easy on the gums," said one judge. $25

SAUVIGNON BLANC & BLENDS 20 TASTED 11 AWARDED

Sidewood Estate Adelaide Hills Sauvignon Blanc 2017 ★★★1/2 Big fresh grassy/ asparagus sauvignon blanc with a tropical nose and punchy palate with lovely varietal lift. $20 Reillys Adelaide Hills Sauvignon Blanc 2017 ★★★1/2 Tropical-like lift to the nose and a ﬂeshy, nicely textured, palate with lovely depth of varietal fruit ﬂavours. $25

"Overall a pretty good bunch of fresh and ﬂavoursome wines," enthused one judge. "The 2017 vintage was a good cool year and it shows in these results." A few of the older wines were past their use by date. Nepenthe Altitude Adelaide Hills Sauvignon Blanc 2017 ★★★★1/2 An intense and complex style with deep pale straw hues and lovely herbaceous fruit aromas and ﬂavours showing a zesty lift with quite an alcoholic concentration. $20 Wignalls Single Vineyard Albany Sauvignon Blanc 2017 ★★★★ A very good wine, quite French in style with elegant tropical fruit aromas and nicely constructed palate with good depth sweet fruit. $19 Nepenthe The Luminary Adelaide Hills Sauvignon Blanc 2017 ★★★★ A very good, delightfully elegant sauvignon blanc that is seamlessly balanced and sitting more in the fresh citrus fruit spectrum. $25

Nepenthe Petraea Adelaide Hills Sauvignon Blanc 2016 ★★★1/2 A "purposeful style"; quite different with the oak showing through the sweet aromatic citrussy fruit characters. $35 Hoggies Estate Wines Coonawarra Sauvignon Blanc 2017 ★★★ A simple but balanced style with a reasonable length of sweet tropical fruit intensity. $15 Ironwood Porongurup Sauvignon Blanc 2017 ★★★ A well-made commercial style wine. A tad sweet with some asparagus characters. $19 Sandalford Estate Reserve Margaret River Sauvignon Blanc Semillon 2017 ★★★ A lightweight with earthy green aromas and elegant fruit palate with 'edgy' acidity. $20 K1 by Geoff Hardy Adelaide Hills Sauvignon Blanc 2017 ★★★ Nice passionfruit lift to the nose with clean herbaceous fruit ﬂavours. Good acidity. $25

Pertaringa Regional Series Adelaide Hills Sauvignon Blanc 2017 ★★★ Grapefruit-like citrus characters tend to dominate this well-made wine. $30

McGuigan The Shortlist Hunter Valley Semillon 2017 ★★★1/2 Quite a hot nose with lovely citrus lift and loads of citrus ﬂavours with excellent acid backbone. Great palate balance. $29

SEMILLON & BLENDS

Sandalford Margaret River Range Classic Dry White Margaret 7 TASTED River Semillon 6 AWARDED Sauvignon Blanc 2017 ★★★ A strong class of whites. A drink now style with a powerful, upfront "The semillon and asparagus-like sauvignon sauvignon blanc varieties blanc inﬂuence. $20 in cool years really work," said one judge. "Great for drinking now or for cellaring." McGuigan Bin 9000 Hunter Valley Semillon 2017 ★★★★1/2 Lingering lemon sherbetlike aromas ﬁll the glass with fragrance and has excellent lemony citrus depth to the palate. Will age very well. "A really lovely wine," thought one judge. $13

PINOT GRIS/ GRIGIO

RIESLING 13 TASTED 8 AWARDED A strong class overall, with the top wines showing the elegance of the 2017 vintage. "Riesling is the most undervalued category in the Australian industry," commented one judge.

8 TASTED 4 AWARDED A mixed bag of relatively light wines. "Generally a neutral group of wines with a couple showing fruit character," said one judge. "Still confusion about the name, but focus on the ﬂavour

GMH White Meritage Adelaide Hills Semillon Sauvignon Blanc 2017 ★★★★ A nice balance between the two varieties with fragrant lime fruit mix of aromas and ﬂavours and nice phenolic complexity. Refreshing! $18

particularly if you like

Tempus Two Pewter Hunter Valley Semillon 2017 ★★★★ A very good wine with typical minerally/limey semillon fruit characters with balancing acidity. Offers good cellaring potential. $34

Trentham The Family Murray Darling Pinot Grigio 2017 ★★★ Well-made commercial style. More gris in style with its fuller, complex fatty/nutty characters. $15

Pertaringa Lakeside White Meritage South Australia Semillon Sauvignon Blanc 2017 ★★★1/2 A lemon and cut grass driven bouquet and a nicely textured palate with nice length and drive of fruit ﬂavours. $20

Climbing Orange Pinot Gris 2017 ★★★ Complex, fresh and well balanced. Stylistically correct, offering good cellaring potential. $24

pinot gris." Beelgara Estate NSW Pinot Grigio 2017 ★★★ A very good example of style with dusty fresh aromas and a decent, well rounded palate. $10.99

Kingston Estate Adelaide Hills Pinot Gris 2017 ★★★ Powerful yeast autolysis characters sitting on top of the sweet varietal fruit. $18.99

Springton Hills Wines Eliza's Single Vineyard Eden Valley Riesling 2017 ★★★★★ A distinctively cool climate riesling that's all class! It shows hints of herbs on the floral lime nose and has a lovely long, elegant and bone dry palate. $22 Eden Hall Reserve Eden Valley Riesling 2017 ★★★★1/2 A generously flavoured pale green wine that's soft, rich and seamlessly balanced. The nice floral elements mingle with the ripe varietal fruit characters. $35

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NEW RELEASES Stage Door Wine Co. The Green Room Eden Valley Riesling 2017 ★★★★ Stonefruit characters lift off the nose and the lovely classy palate has a complex balance of fruit, alcohol and some soft acidity. $25

GRUNER VELTLINER

McGuigan The Shortlist Eden Valley Riesling 2017 ★★★★ Fresh lifted and spicy varietal fruit aromas and great mix of savoury, herbal and citrus ﬂavours on the long, delicious palate. $29

winemakers are ﬁnding

6 TASTED 4 AWARDED "An elusive variety," said one judge. "The vines are still young and their way stylistically." A mixed result with some good examples that show promise.

Stage Door Wine Co. White Note Eden Valley Gruner Veltliner 2017 ★★★★ A ﬂoral/apple-like bouquet with a generous palate that has good varietal fruit depth, prickly acidity and nicely balanced sweetness. $25

Tempus Two Copper Vegan Hunter Valley Verdelho 2017 ★★★1/2 Slightly reserved tropical aromas with a lychee lift. Well balanced palate; good integration of tropical fruit and acid. $30

Eden Hall Eden Valley Gruner Veltliner 2017 ★★★1/2 Lovely aromas reminiscent of apples with jasmine-like nuances. Good ﬂavour depth, length and balancing acid. $35

Tamburlaine Wine Lovers Hunter Valley Verdelho Semillon 2017 ★★★ Interesting old fashioned style. Lifted lemon curd nose and nice fruit/acid drive to the palate. $22

Artwine In The Groove Adelaide Hills Gruner Veltliner 2017 ★★★ Fresh, light and simple with subtle apple and citrus-like fruit characters. $25

Mercuri Estate Ryder Clare Valley Riesling 2017 ★★★1/2 A light green with an elegancy of zesty lime-like varietal fruit characters with just a hint of residual sweetness. $18

VERDELHO & BLENDS

Eden Hall Eden Valley Riesling 2017 ★★★1/2 Very varietal with light sherbety-like aromas followed by a refreshing medium length passionfruit palate. $22 Schild Estate Barossa Riesling 2017 ★★★ Minerally, acid-driven wine with very fresh varietal fruit characters. Needs time to settle. $15

4 TASTED 4 AWARDED

Sandalford Estate Reserve Margaret River Verdelho 2017 ★★★ Quite a sweetish wine with typical tropical varietal fruit characters on both nose and palate. $25

CHARDONNAY 17 TASTED 9 AWARDED Some good results here but some wines were

K1 by Geoff Hardy Adelaide Hills Gruner Veltliner 2017 ★★★★ Somewhat restrained but well-made wine with orchard fruit aromas and a slightly grippy, nicely textured palate. Nice fruit characters. $25

Reillys Watervale Clare Valley Riesling 2017 ★★★ A broad, mid-weight style with ripe fruit, some phenolics and a zesty end. $25

Small but consistent

lacking chardonnay

group of pleasant wines.

varietal character and

"An underrated variety

interest. "This should

showing an appealing

be a category that

tropical character," said

absolutely shines,"

one judge.

said one judge. "Some winemakers have

Tempus Two Varietal Hunter Valley Verdelho 2017 ★★★★1/2 More of a commercial style of wine with attractive honeyed/floral fragrances and a lovely luscious palate loaded with plenty of flavours and has great floral length. $16

gone to the opposite extremes of making their wines too elegant!"

McGuigan The Shortlist Adelaide Hills Chardonnay 2016 ★★★★★ Excellent green hues here with distinctive barrel ferment/burnt match elements to the nose. Plenty of interest on the lovely rich and complex palate with fresh line of acid. $29 Nepenthe Ithaca Adelaide Hills Chardonnay 2016 ★★★★ "A very nice wine," enthused one judge. Exhibits lovely simple melon fruit characters with light oak complexity and crisp acidity. $35 Haha Marlborough Chardonnay 2016 ★★★1/2 Crisp ripe fruit and subtle oak complexity on the nose and a creamy palate showing nice ﬂavour freshness. $15.99 Saint Clair James Sinclair Marlborough Chardonnay 2016 ★★★1/2 A simple light green wine with fresh lifted lime juice aromas which follow through to the fresh and elegant palate. $17.50 Saint Clair Omaka Reserve Marlborough Chardonnay 2016 ★★★1/2 Toasty oak aromas mingle with the varietal fruit. Creamy in the mouth with good toasty oak length. "A nice style." $33.50

JUDGES - DAY 2 Stephen John Senior Winemaker for The Wine Group Australia and owner/winemaker of Stephen John Wines. More than 30 years’ winemaking experience. Has judged at Adelaide, National, and Barossa wine shows. Regular Winestate panellist and chairman of judges at the Winestate Wine of the Year Awards.

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Marc Allgrove Partner at Evans and Ayers consulting ﬁrm. With over 20 years in the Australian wine industry, both Australia and abroad. Worked at Hardy’s, Constellation, Chapel Hill (CEO) and director of the Phylloxera board.

Akira Takahashi Assistant winemaker at Vinteloper Wines, Adelaide Hills. Judged with East End Cellars. Has been involved with liquor retailing, wine list coordination and wine buying.

wine & spirit insider tasting Sandalford Margaret River Range Margaret River Chardonnay 2017 ★★★ Simple stonefruit nose and more of a dry white style of palate. No faults but not very varietal. $20

Nepenthe Altitude Adelaide Hills Pinot Noir Rosé 2017 ★★★1/2 A great drink with light strawberry lift to the nose and a beautifully simple fruit palate with just the right amount of acid. $20

Saint Clair Pioneer Block 10 Twin Hills Marlborough Chardonnay 2016 ★★★ Attractive aromas of melons and cashews. Nice mid-palate richness with good varietal ﬂavours. $27.90

Walter Wines Federation Hill Single Vineyard Mudgee NSW Rosé 2017 ★★★1/2 A pleasant cherry berry bouquet and a tasty balance of sweet and savoury ﬂavours on the well textured palate. $20

OTHER RED VARIETALS & BLENDS 11 TASTED 5 AWARDED A mixed result from mixed varietals. The

Bream Creek Tasmania Chardonnay 2015 ★★★ A tropical complexity to the slightly oily nose and a long, bright, fresh fruit and light oak palate. $34 Lupe Cholet Chablis Chardonnay 2015 ★★★ Fresh grassy/melon fruit nose and lovely bright ﬂavours on the creamy palate. $55

ROSÉ 16 TASTED 10 AWARDED A mixed bag both in style and results. "There has been a real revolution in rosé in the past few years going from the darker red types to now where we see more light pink varieties," said one judge. "There are mainly dry styles with good acid balance."

Trentham The Family Murray Darling Sangiovese Rosé 2017 ★★★★ A very pretty pale pink wine showing lovely lifted ripe raspberry fruit aromas and some nicely restrained berry fruit flavours. $15 Luna Rosa Central Ranges Rosado 2017 ★★★★ Bright berry bouquet with a nice sweet lift and has a nicely textured palate with savoury characters and good level of acidity. $16 Shingleback Aficionado McLaren Vale Adelaide Hills Rosé 2017 ★★★1/2 Delicate sweet strawberry fragrances and a dry/savoury palate with lovely volume of flavour and supportive acidity. $14.95 Villa Maria Private Bin Hawkes Bay Rosé 2017 ★★★1/2 A slightly fuller style of rosé that has some very attractive lifted floral/ berry fruit and nicely balanced sweetness. $15.99 NZ

Graham Norton's Own Pink By Design Hawkes Bay Rosé 2017 ★★★ Nicely balanced, well made, dry style of rose in the savoury/sweet spectrum with prickly acidity. $20 Sandalford Margaret River Range Margaret River Rosé 2017 ★★★ Good example of a traditional grenache rosé. Sweet and luscious with good acid balance. $20 Tamburlaine Wine Lovers Petite Fleur Orange Hunter Valley Rosé 2017 ★★★ A vibrant hot pink wine with delicate raspberry fruit characters mingling with some lovely acidity. $22 The Grapes of Ross Ruby Tuesday Barossa Valley Rosé 2017 ★★★ Good grenache varietal fruit aromas and ﬂavours with sweetness at a realistic commercial level. $23

wines reviewed were youthful and showed their varietal character. "These are aimed at young drinkers with early release wines," suggested one judge. "Young easy to drink wines."

Lupe Cholet Domaine Du Bois Des Chenes Beaujolais Villages Gamay 2015 ★★★ A simple quaffer with light strawberry/ blackberry fruit and a long drying ﬁnish. $33

PINOT NOIR 13 TASTED 4 AWARDED The Kiwi's win this round; some very nice varietal examples. "Interesting to note that the best had brightness of colour regardless of

Chateau Yaldara Winemaker's Selection Barossa Valley Cabernet Franc 2016 ★★★★ Interesting Bordeauxlike cassis aromas; hints of violets. Good fruit, acid and grippy tannin integration. Still a youth needs time. 3-5 $35 McGuigan The Shortlist Barossa Valley Montepulciano 2016 ★★★1/2 Dense raspberry jam nose and a powerful well balanced berry fruit palate with soft drying tannins. Needs food! 3-5 $29 Nepenthe Altitude Adelaide Hills Tempranillo 2016 ★★★ An excellent quaffer with, "No pretences". It's all berry fruits, astringent tannins and soft acidity. $20 The Lindsay Collection Bull Fight Barossa Valley Tempranillo 2015 ★★★ Stalky young fruit nose and high acid, green fruit palate with drying tannic ﬁnish. $20

depth involved," said one judge. "With this variety the palate often gives you more than the colour and nose suggests." Saint Clair Pioneer Block 14 Doctor's Creek Marlborough Pinot Noir 2016 ★★★★ Light berry bouquet with spicy oak adding complexity. The palate has lifted red berry flavours, subtle use of oak and fine acid. $31.90 Saint Clair Pioneer Block 23 Master Block Marlborough Pinot Noir 2016 ★★★★ Fine depth of red berry fruits, herbs and spices on a lifted nose. The nicely textured palate has a light oak tannin finish. 3-5 $31.90 Lowburn Ferry Home Block Central Otago Pinot Noir 2016 ★★★ A very oaky nose and some powerful dry red flavours layered with nice toastiness. $22

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NEW RELEASES

Chateau Yaldara Foundations Barossa Valley Grenache 2016 ★★★ Lifted vanilla and spice aromas with ﬁrm ﬂavours of powerful oak layered with berry fruits. 5+ $27

GRENACHE & BLENDS 9 TASTED 7 AWARDED A strong solid class of attractive reds. These offer a nice spicy edge which is different across the board. "The best wines in this mid-weight variety did not exhibit over ripe characters, or were too young and tart or showed excess tannins." Vinrock McLaren Vale Grenache 2016 ★★★★ Nice uncomplicated style with a red berry nose. Creamy in the mouth; fresh sweet ﬂavours. Good oak/acid balance. 5+ $25 Vinrock McLaren Vale G.S.M. 2016 ★★★★ Developing toasty/nutty nose and well-structured palate with slightly sweet fruit ﬂavours and 'furry' tannins. Very approachable wine. $25

Grand Vin De Chateau Crabitey Graves Merlot Cabernet Sauvignon 2012 ★★★1/2 Some pine needle notes to the nose with plum fruit still obvious on the palate. Tannins are there but they are soft. $45

Bayliss Road McLaren Vale G.S.M. 2016 ★★★ "Very stylistic," noted one judge. Lovely rich nose and a soft and creamy sweet/savoury palate. $19

Barristers Block Premium Wines Single Vineyard Adelaide Hills Pinot Noir 2016 ★★★ Developing toasty/nutty aromas and pleasant spicy fruit/herbal ﬂavours with soft tannins. $38

Thorn-Clarke Wines Barossa Trail Barossa Grenache 2016 ★★★★ Aromas of cooked fruit and new oak with well-balanced soft berry ﬂavours that are nicely matched by the subtle tannins. $35 Kalleske Old Vine Barossa Valley Grenache 2016 ★★★★ Oaky aromas dominate the nose with interesting smoked bacon-like savouriness on the palate. Drinking well now or cellar it. 3-5 $45

Chateau Yaldara Reserve Barossa Valley Grenache Shiraz Mataro 2015 ★★★ Mature sweet berry bouquet and a simple ﬂavoursome palate. Very easy to drink! $35

MERLOT & BLENDS 12 TASTED 7 AWARDED Generally disappointing thought the judges. "A few here were over-oaked and grainy without the 'ﬂesh' of fruit," said one judge. "However the high scorers relied more on the fruit balance which better expressed the

Haha Hawke's Bay Merlot 2016 ★★★ Stalky green edged aromas and a wellstructured palate with nice fruit intensity. Popular style. $15.99

Trentham Estate Murray Darling Merlot 2016 ★★★★ This fruit dominated wine was described as a, "Serious, spicy commercial style". It's deeper, darker, tighter and jammier! $16 Sirius Bordeaux Merlot Cabernet Sauvignon 2012 ★★★1/2 Drying tannic style; give it some air and lovely elegant deep dark fruit emerges. Slight savoury edge to the fruit. $33

The Lindsay Collection Old Mac Barossa Valley Merlot 2015 ★★★ "A big commercial offering," with its resinous oak nose and dark raspberry fruit/ charry oak flavours. $20 Climbing Orange Merlot 2015 ★★★ Distinctive cool climate blackcurrant and plum style; a nice wine. "Needs time to tame the tannins." $24 Chateau De Fontenille Grand Bordeaux Bordeaux Merlot Cabernet Sauvignon 2012 ★★★ A complex wine with good maturing dark fruit characters, savoury elements and prominent tannins. $33

varietal character."

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wine & spirit insider tasting CABERNET & BLENDS 20 TASTED 9 AWARDED Watch here for the straight cabernets rather than the blends, bar one

Rosenvale Vineyards Estate Barossa Cabernet Sauvignon 2013 ★★★★ Nicely aged, complex bouquet; plenty of cassis and violets. Soft and sweet in the mouth with vanillin oak adding complexity. $24

exception. These wines seemed to have more varietal character. There were a few wines here that were dismissed because of very green fruit - which is hard to take. Beresford Classic McLaren Vale Cabernet Sauvignon 2015 ★★★★1/2 Beautifully complex nose; all cassis and cedar with nice nuttiness. A great palate - it has length, depth and complexity with a balance of sweet fruit and soft oak ﬂavours. $28.99

88 & 88 Langhorne Creek Cabernet Sauvignon 2016 ★★★1/2 Nose is a lovely blend of ripe cassis fruit and sweet new oak. The palate is rich and chocolaty with long soft tannins. $19.99

Oparina Padthaway Cabernet Shiraz 2015 ★★★★1/2 Deep crimson wine. Well integrated fruit/ oak nose it's still closed. Lovely palate complexity; excellent depth of vibrant fruit, chewy oak and textured tannins. Nice ﬁnish. $30

DRINK RESPONSIBLY

Chateau Yaldara Foundations Barossa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2016 ★★★1/2 Smells like a Cherry Ripe chocolate bar with good depth of red berry fruit ﬂavours and some astringent acidity. $27 Nepenthe Altitude Adelaide Hills Cabernet Sauvignon 2016 ★★★ Dusty oak/cassis fruit aromas and a tight, acid based, cool climate, palate with bright acidity. $20

B ORN I N F RANCE, I NTERNATIONALLY A CCLAIMED. www.bardinet.fr - export@bardinet.fr

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NEW RELEASES Chateau Yaldara Foundations Barossa Valley Shiraz 2016 ★★★1/2 Very oaky style but has good depth of dark varietal fruit below. "Should become more balanced with time." $27

Barristers Block Premium Wines Single Vineyard Wrattonbully Cabernet Sauvignon 2016 ★★★ Ripe blackberry bouquet and sweet oak palate. Good solid style with plenty of length and richness. $38

Kalleske Zeitgeist Barossa Valley Shiraz 2017 ★★★ "A huge baby." Bright sweet black fruit characters. "Should still be in the barrel," thought one judge. $26

Shingleback Davey Estate Reserve McLaren Vale Cabernet Sauvignon 2015 ★★★ Old fashioned style with mature fruit cakelike aromas and lovely complex palate. $24.50 Chateau Yaldara Reserve Barossa Thorn-Clarke Wines Valley Cabernet Barossa Trail Barossa Sauvignon Shiraz 2016 ★★★★★ 2015 ★★★ Dark cherry fruits ﬁll the Mature chocolaty/ glass with lifted aromas. toffee nose with hints "Nice to see such of cherries and similar excellent integration of characters on the palate. the varietal fruit and the 3-5 $35 charred oak," enthused one judge about this palate. $35

SHIRAZ & BLENDS 2017-2016

Shingleback Local Heroes McLaren Vale Shiraz Grenache 2016 ★★★★1/2 Well-made wine; a richness of black fruits and licorice. The shiraz fruit tends to dominate both the nose and the palate. Some savoury complexity. Excellent potential. $24.50 Tempus Two Copper Gundagai Shiraz 2016 ★★★★1/2 Rich sweet plum-like fruit characters on the nose with a good balance between the sweet fruit and the oak on the nicely textured palate with a ﬁne line of tannins. $45

20 TASTED 14 AWARDED "We are starting to see winemaking faults creeping in again these past few years which is unacceptable

Federation Langhorne Creek Shiraz 2016 ★★★★ A lovely medium-bodied shiraz with blackberries and black pepper on the nose and pepper and spice ﬁlling the berry fruit palate. $19.99 Cartel Padthaway Shiraz 2016 ★★★1/2 A big tight wine with quite savoury meaty/ Bonox-like elements. Tannins still slightly aggressive. "A polarising style." $14.99

Fortunately there were also some outstanding wines showing how it should be done!

Barristers Block Premium Wines Single Vineyard The Bully Wrattonbully Shiraz 2016 ★★★★★ A dark brooding shiraz with a delightful raspberry fruit bouquet and a lovely ﬂeshy palate rich with spicy varietal fruit ﬂavours and underscored by a great level of acidity. $38

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Trentham Estate Murray Darling Shiraz 2016 ★★★★ Nose shows good lift of sweet rich fruit and the palate is a nice balance between the spicy licorice fruit and the oak. A well-made wine. $16 Kalleske Greenock Barossa Valley Shiraz 2016 ★★★★ "High end commercial style." A good wine with oak tending to dominate at the moment but the rich raspberry-like fruit pushes through. $40

Tamburlaine Wine Lovers Orange Shiraz 2016 ★★★ Subtle dark fruit fragrances and balanced varietal fruit palate with slightly aggressive tannins. $24 Wignalls Great Southern Shiraz 2016 ★★★ A well-made, easy drinking, style. Simple blackberry and plum fruit with savoury/gamey hints. $29

SHIRAZ & BLENDS 2015 & OLDER

these days," noted one judge about this class.

Pepperton Estate Two Thumbs Langhorne Creek Shiraz 2016 ★★★ An oak-driven style but nice dark raspberry fruit sitting behind. Time will balance it out. $16.99

20 TASTED 16 AWARDED Very consistent class; lots of quality. "The wines that did best were those that were ageing slowly," said one judge. "Others were ready for BEST VALUE BUYS

Greenock Estate SA Shiraz Cabernet 2016 ★★★1/2 Spicy blackberry fruit tends to dominate the nose while the palate is full of rich primary fruit flavours. Good tannins. $18

drinking now or in the next year or two." The best wines had both primary fruit characters along with complexity.

wine & spirit insider tasting Rosenvale Vineyards Estate Barossa Shiraz 2013 ★★★1/2 A wine that's ageing well and described by one judge as, "The sweet dark berries and spices in a holding pattern". $24

Rivers Lane Organic McLaren Vale Shiraz 2015 ★★★★★ A huge wine -still a baby! Has an intense concentration of dark berry and black olive-like fruit characters with very subtle use of oak. Lovely palate depth, texture and balance. $25

McGuigan The Shortlist Barossa Valley Shiraz 2015 ★★★ An interesting light, spicy and plain shiraz with reserved dark fruit showing a savoury edge. $29

Eminence McLaren Vale Shiraz 2015 ★★★★★ A deeply intense brooding wine that has a long life ahead of it. Amazing dark chocolate and blackberry aromas and ﬂavours with a big menthol lift. Lovely freshness and palate length. $55 The Lindsay Collection The Sumit Barossa Valley Shiraz 2015 ★★★★1/2 A huge but beautifully balanced shiraz with a chocolaty nose showing minty notes. Lovely balance, texture and length to the palate with ﬂavours in the savoury spectrum. $40

Earl Family Reserve McLaren Vale Shiraz 2014 ★★★★1/2 Subtle spicy dark fruit bouquet and nicely textured palate with excellent sweet varietal fruit ﬂavours and a dash of black pepper and the oak in a supportive role. $39.99 Chateau Yaldara Reserve Barossa Valley Shiraz 2015 ★★★★ A big wine with nice oak use - plenty of vanilla and toasty charactersbut the fruit is pushing through. A wine with lovely drinkability. $35 Brick Kiln Single Vineyard McLaren Vale Shiraz 2014 ★★★★ A classic Aussie shiraz at a lovely stage of development. It has a nose of blackberries and vanilla and a beautifully balanced palate. $25

The Lindsay Collection The Selector Barossa Valley Shiraz 2015 ★★★★1/2 A very well made wine with excellent balance between the lovely dark fruit and the well-handled oak and showing nice savoury complexity and good fruit sweetness. $20 Block 1889 McLaren Vale Soul Old Vines McLaren Vale Shiraz 2014 ★★★★1/2 A massive, oakdominated, wine but there is also plenty of slightly jammy red varietal fruit characters to handle it. Lovely black olive and tar-like complexity. $34.99

Beresford Classic McLaren Vale Shiraz 2015 ★★★1/2 A big oak-driven shiraz but there is also plenty of sweet raspberry fruit characters lurking underneath. $28.99

The Lindsay Collection Sunup Barossa Valley Shiraz 2015 ★★★ This is a soft, easy drinking, commercial style shiraz that is, "rounded and satisfying". $30 Brick Kiln The Grove Single Vineyard McLaren Vale Shiraz 2015 ★★★ Lovely medium bodied style with savoury aromas and a "scorched earth and red berry palate". $60 McGuigan Farms Barossa Valley Shiraz 2014 ★★★ An old school style dominated by the spicy oak with chocolaty elements and slight mintiness. $75 Barossa King Reserve Barossa Valley Shiraz 2013 ★★★ All oaky and developed with plenty of meaty/ Bonox-like savoury elements. $39.99

SWEET WHITE & FORTIFIED 6 TASTED 4 AWARDED A mixed group of "sweeties" tending to show medium to sweet rather than cloyingly sweet characters and there was one youthful, raisiny sweet fortiﬁed. LWE Barossa Valley Tawny NV ★★★1/2 A young ﬁery tawny with dried prune and molasses aromas and nutty richness to the lovely long sweet fruit palate. $50 1847 Wines Lily's Barossa Valley Late Harvest Semillon 2016 ★★★1/2 Lifted honey sweet citrus/caramel aromas and a balanced sweet fruit palate. Not too sweet and cloying. Just right! $20 Hoggies Estate Wines Australia Moscato 2017 ★★★ A very well made moscato with everything that you would expect from this particular style. $15 Collection Plaimont Pacherenc-Du-VicBilh Sweet White 2014 ★★★ A restrained, nonbotrytis style, with plenty of attractive candied, tropical, sweetness. $36.40

Rosenvale Vineyards Old Vines Reserve Barossa Valley Shiraz 2012 ★★★ A nice wine, probably at its peak, with matured dark fruit and olive complexity. $39

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BEST VALUE BUYS - All under $20 Mt Monster Limestone Coast Sauvignon Blanc 2017

Gapsted Wines Valley Selection King Valley Pinot Gris 2017

Hints of grapefruit on the nose and a restrained dry and grassy/ lemon-like palate. $16.95

Nutty savoury nose and slightly rich, complex, palate. Has a degree of lusciousness and shows plenty of potential. $18

Morambro Creek Wines Phone: +61 08 8723 1065 Email: david@morambrocreek.com.au Web: www.morambrocreek.com.au www.mtmonster.com.au www.jipjiprocks.com.au

Gapsted Wines Phone: +61 03 5751 1992 Email: admin@gapstedwines.com.au Web: www.gapstedwines.com.au

Claire Creek SEA Sparkling Moscato NV Floral fragrances with a slight mineral edge. The palate is luscious and full of great ﬂavours. $4.99 Aldi Stores Phone: 02 9675 9382 Web: www.aldi.com.au

South Point Estate SEA Sparkling Chardonnay Pinot Noir NV Lemon tart-like aromas and persistent citrus rind ﬂavours on a complex and creamy palate. $5.99 Aldi Stores Phone: 02 9675 9382 Web: www.aldi.com.au

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(NZ $25 & UNDER)

$20&

UNDER

BEST VALUE WINES OF AUSTRALIA AND NEW ZEALAND Is updated in each issue of The Wine & Spirit Insider. Some wines may - if they are still available - remain in the next issue’s Best Value Wines listing. Others will sell out, or be replaced by higher-rated wines. The Wine & Spirit Insider’s Best Value Wines listing comprises the best wines currently available, from bigname brands and the higher volume ‘second labels’ from the smaller producers, as tasted by Winestate Magazine panels. The Best Value Wines listing gives credit to the value wines in the marketplace - wines that would otherwise be overshadowed by their much more expensive cousins.

The W ine & Spirit INSIDER

TO QUALIFY 1 Wines must have ﬁrst been recommended in Winestate Magazine style or new release tastings. Style tastings are deﬁned as varietal tastings - eg, shiraz, chardonnay, etc. - or blended styles such as shiraz/cabernet wines. 2 Wines from designated regional tastings are eligible provided they are widely available. 3 All wines must be currently available from the winery, or be readily available in the marketplace. Cellar door wine is ineligable.

Veuve Olivier France & Spain Sparkling Brut NV "Good bead, nice nutty development on the nose, persistent ﬂavours, some obvious oak and crisp acidity." $7.99 Aldi Stores Phone: 02 9675 9382 Web: www.aldi.com.au

Veuve Monsigny Brut Selection Champagne Brut NV Nutty nose with hints of persimmon fruit. Great mousse and autolysis on the ﬁne toasty palate with more of the persimmon characters evident. $19.99 Aldi Stores Phone: 02 9675 9382 Web: www.aldi.com.au

Totino Cartia Adelaide Hills Sparkling Cuvee NV

Bottega Vino Dei Poeti DOC Italy Prosecco 2016

A complexity of honey and nougat aromas with developed mouthcoating creamy ﬂavours. $16.99

Fresh and exotic style with light and pretty lemon blossom bouquet and very attractive jasmine/freesialike ﬂoral ﬂavours. $19.99

Festival City Wine & Spirits Phone: +61 08 8349 1200 Email: sales@festivalcitywines.com.au Web: www.festivalcitywines.com.au

Festival City Wine & Spirits Phone: 08 8349 1200 Email: sales@festivalcitywines.com.au Web: www.festivalcitywines.com.au

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BEST VALUE BUYS - All under $20 Gapsted Wines Tobacco Road King Valley Prosecco NV A light bodied wine with subtle aromas and ﬂavours and some bottle age developing. $16 Gapsted Wines Phone: +61 03 5751 1992 Email: admin@gapstedwines.com.au Web: www.gapstedwines.com.au

Syn McLaren Vale Cuvée Blanc NV

Syn Rouge Coonawarra Sparkling Shiraz NV

"A big simple wine, quite sweet with pear and applelike aromas and ﬂavours." $18

"Deep purple wine that has a lovely mix of blue fruits, spicy apples, plums, licorice and some vanilla characters." $18

Leconfield Wines Pty Ltd/ Richard Hamilton Phone: 08 8323 8830 Email: info@leconfieldwines.com Web: www.leconfieldwines.com

Gapsted Wines Tobacco Road King Valley Rutherglen Sangiovese Rosé 2017 A subtle, ﬁne boned and lively strawberries and cream style with light confectionery characters with plenty of bright acidity to balance. $16 Gapsted Wines Phone: +61 03 5751 1992 Email: admin@gapstedwines.com.au Web: www.gapstedwines.com.au

SEEKING DISTRIBUTORS ACROSS AUSTRALIA Ask for wine samples now Marketing support available J I R R A

W I N E S

A T

Support for wine events and dinners

For sales enquiries call Bill Mason on 0417 036 436 or alternatively email bill.mason@rwbm.net.au

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WINES WITH A SENSE O F H E R I TA G E F R O M J E I R S TAT I O N

Tomich Duck & Weave Adelaide Hills Pinot Noir 2016 A "snappy, sinewy" wine with an earthy/beetroot bouquet and lovely long palate with excellent varietal fruit flavour profile, some nice tannins and 3-5 $18 a lingering finish. Tomich Wines Phone: +61 8 8299 7500 Email: sales@tomich.com.au Web: www.tomichhill.com.au

Mt Monster Limestone Coast Cabernet 2016

Blickinstal Coonawarra Cabernet Sauvignon 2015

Greenock Estate SA Shiraz Cabernet 2016

Surprisingly approachable for a young wine. Nice harmony between red berry richness and subtle oak. $16.95

Big stylish wine showing seamless balance and structure with the spicy berry fruit characters nicely in check. Good drying ﬁnish. $13

Spicy blackberry fruit tends to dominate the nose while the palate is full of rich primary fruit ﬂavours. Good tannins. $18

Morambro Creek Wines Phone: +61 08 8723 1065 Email: david@morambrocreek.com.au Web: www.morambrocreek.com.au www.mtmonster.com.au www.jipjiprocks.com.au

Orchid Wine Estate Phone: 08 8410 4635 Email: jason.zhao@orchidwine.com.au

Greenock Estate Wines Phone: 0403 683 067 Email: frederick@gewines.com Web: www.gewines.com

AUSTRALIAN & NEW ZEALAND

the wine & spirit Editor & Publisher Peter Simic E-mail: editor@winestate.com.au Managing Editor Lara Simic E-mail: lara@winestate.com.au Administration Vicki Bozsoki E-mail: administration@winestate.com.au Graphic Designer Naomi Fry E-mail: production@winestate.com.au Marketing Manager Peter Jackson E-mail: sales@winestate.com.au Tasting Coordinator E-mail: tasting@winestate.com.au

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The Wine & Spirit INSIDER

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Meet, Taste & Discover over 180 South Australian wine, beer, spirit and food producers, all under one roof at the Adelaide Convention Centre.

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contact details CHAMPAGNE & SPARKLING

Aldi Stores Phone: 02 9675 9382 Web: www.aldi.com.au Festival City Wine & Spirits Phone: 08 8349 1200 Email: sales@festivalcitywines.com.au Web: www.festivalcitywines.com.au

Trentham Estate Phone: 03 5024 8888 Email: juliac@trenthamestate.com.au Web: www.trenthamestate.com.au Wicks Estate Wines Phone: 08 8212 0004 Email: info@wicksestate.com.au Web: www.wicksestate.com.au

HUNTER VALLEY Hersey Wines Email: jono@herseywines.com.au Majella Wines Phone: 08 8736 3055 Email: admin@majellawines.com.au Web: www.majellawines.com.au Saint Clair Family Vineyards Phone: +64 3 578 8695 Email: kate@saintclair.co.nz Web: www.saintclair.co.nz Saracen Estates Phone: 08 9486 9410 Email: sales@saracenestates.com.au Web: www.saracenestates.com.au Tomich Wines Phone: +61 8 8299 7500 Email: sales@tomich.com.au Web: www.tomichhill.com.au

Glandore Estate Phone: 02 4998 7140 Email: nick@glandorewines.com Web: www.glandorewines.com Midnight’s Promise Estate & Wines Phone: 02 9235 3947 Email: info@midnightspromise.com.au Web: www.midnightspromise.com.au

HAWKE’S BAY

Askerne Vineyard Phone: +64 6 877 6085 Email: askerne.wine.nz@xtra.co.nz Web: www.askerne.co.nz Villa Maria Estate Ltd (Esk Valley/Villa Maria/Vidal) Phone: +64 9 255 1754 Email: enquiries@villamaria.co.nz Web: www.villamaria.co.nz

Chrismont Phone: 03 5729 8220 Email: info@chrismont.com.au Web: www.chrismont.com.au

Morambro Creek Wines Phone: 08 8723 1065 Email: david@morambrocreek.com.au Web: www.morambrocreek.com.au www.mtmonster.com.au www.jipjiprocks.com.au Orchid Wine Estate Phone: 08 8410 4635 Email: jason.zhao@orchidwine.com.au

LIMESTONE COAST

Casella Family Brands Phone: 02 9330 4700 Email: frankie.harding@ casellafamilybrands.com Web: www.casellafamilybrands.com Farmer’s Leap Phone: 08 8765 5155 Email: ofﬁce@farmersleap.com Web: www.farmersleap.com

NORTH EAST VICTORIA

Majella Wines Phone: 08 8736 3055 Email: admin@majellawines.com.au Web: www.majellawines.com.au

Hoggies Estate (Stentiford Pty Ltd) Phone: 0418 854 102 Email: gavin.hogg1952@gmail.com Leconfield Wines Pty Ltd/ Richard Hamilton Phone: 08 8323 8830 Email: info@leconfieldwines.com Web: www.leconfieldwines.com

Pernod Ricard Winemakers Pty Ltd Phone: 08 8131 2559 Email: info@pernod-ricard-australia.com Web: www.pernod-ricard-paciﬁc.com

NEW RELEASES

Barristers Block/Celad’or Estate Vineyards Phone: 08 8389 7706 Email: jansiema@barristersblock.com.au Web: www.barristersblock.com.au Champagne J. De Telmont Phone: +33 326 584 033 Email: p.manfredini@champagne-detelmont.com Web: www.champagne-de-telmont.com

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Straight up or over ice. As a mojito - ice mint & lime. Great base for an exotic range of cocktails.

Feathered Nest Wines - Rivendell Estate Yallingup W.A. 08 9755 2611 www.cabernato.com

November/December 2017

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contact details

Greenock Estate Wines Phone: 0403 683 067 Email: frederick@gewines.com Web: www.gewines.com

Lawson’s Dry Hills NZ Phone: +64 3 578 7674 Email: nigel@lawsonsdryhills.co.nz Web: www.lawsonsdryhills.co.nz

Hand Crafted by Geoff Hardy Phone: (08) 8388 3700 Email: hanne@winesbygeoffhardy.com.au Web: www.handcraftedbygeoffhardy. com.au

Monkey Business SA P/L Phone: 0400 406 290 Email: tom@monkeybiz.net.au Web: www.monkeybiz.net.au

K1 by Geoff Hardy Wines Phone: 08 8388 3700 Email: hanne@winesbygeoffhardy.com.au www.k1.com.au Lindsay Wine Estate Phone: +61 8 8563 3858 Email: sharyn@lindsaywineestate.com.au Web: www.lindsaywineestate.com.au Oparina Wines Phone: 0448 966 553 Email: philanddeb@oparina.com.au Web: www.oparinawines.com.au Shingleback Phone: 08 8323 9199 Email: cellardoor@shingleback.com.au Web: www.shingleback.com.au Springton Hills Wines Phone: 08 8337 7905 Email: john@springtonhillswines.com.au Web: www.springtonhillswines.com.au Thorn-Clarke Wines Phone: 08 8564 3036 Email: thornclarke@thornclarke.com.au Web: www.thornclarkewines.com Tocco Wines Pty Ltd Phone: +61 422 188 245 Email: paulo.saba@toccowines.com Web: www.toccowines.com.au Trentham Estate Phone: 03 5024 8888 Email: juliac@trenthamestate.com.au Web: www.trenthamestate.com.au

Winestate Magazine @WinestateEd

NEW ZEALAND RECENT RELEASE

Sacred Hill Wines NZ Phone: +64 6 873 9893 Email: enquiries@sacredhill.com Web: www.sacredhill.com Endeavor Vineyards/Catalina Sounds Phone: +64 3 579 6148 Email: lellis@catalinasounds.co.nz Web: www.catalinasounds.co.nz

PINOT NOIR

Grounded Cru Phone: 0438 897 738 Email: geoff@groundedcru.com.au Web: www.groundedcru.com.au Kings of Kangaroo Ground Phone: 03 9712 0666 Email: ken@kkg.com.au Web: www.kkg.com.au

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November/December 2017

Oakdene Wines Pty Ltd Phone: 03 5256 3886 Email: info@oakdene.com.au Web: www.oakdene.com.au Scotchmans Hill Pty Ltd Phone: 03 5251 3176 Email: info@scotchmans.com.au Web: www.scotchmans.com.au Zonte’s Footstep Phone: 08 8383 2032 Email: info@zontesfootstep.com.au Web: www.zontesfootstep.com.au

BEST VALUE BUYS

Aldi Stores Phone: 02 9675 9382 Web: www.aldi.com.au Festival City Wine & Spirits Phone: 08 8349 1200 Email: sales@festivalcitywines.com.au Web: www.festivalcitywines.com.au Gapsted Wines Phone: 03 5751 1992 Email: admin@gapstedwines.com.au Web: www.gapstedwines.com.au Greenock Estate Wines Phone: 0403 683 067 Email: frederick@gewines.com Web: www.gewines.com Leconfield Wines Pty Ltd/ Richard Hamilton Phone: 08 8323 8830 Email: info@leconfieldwines.com Web: www.leconfieldwines.com Morambro Creek Wines Phone: 08 8723 1065 Email: david@morambrocreek.com.au Web: www.morambrocreek.com.au www.mtmonster.com.au www.jipjiprocks.com.au Orchid Wine Estate Phone: 08 8410 4635 Email: jason.zhao@orchidwine.com.au Tomich Wines Phone: +61 8 8299 7500 Email: sales@tomich.com.au Web: www.tomichhill.com.au

SUBSCRIBE TO OUR COMPLETE PACKAGE which includes hard-copy and digital versions plus full on-line access to Winestateâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s web site and reviews. Available only through online order, www.winestate.com.au

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after taste ELISABETH KING

SWEET SUCCESS FOR SOUR GRAPES

I RECEIVE press releases about all sorts of products and industries. But my interest was recently piqued - no pun intended - by a report from data researcher Technavio on the global vinegar market. As you would expect, the arrival of summer fuels the growing demand for organic and natural sauces and salad dressings. According to lead analyst Vijay Sarathi, vinegar’s health and weight management benefits are likely to drive the world’s vinegar market over the next four years and it’s already worth billions. Supermodels like Miranda Kerr spruik the health benefits of cider vinegar but it’s been around for 10,000 years in the company of other long-consumed treats such as wine and cheese. Hippocrates first advocated vinegar for medicinal purposes and during World War I - before the invention of antibiotics - a swab of vinegar was used to disinfect wounds. At the beginning of the year, Emily Thacker, a US author who describes herself as a vinegar authority, launched Emily’s Vinegar Diet Book. The promise is irresistible. Simply increase your intake of vinegar to look years younger, lose weight and boost the immune system to fend off arthritis and disease. Thacker isn’t a snake oil salesperson. Recent studies published in the European Journal of Clinical Nutrition showed that vinegar with a meal or just before it improves blood flow to the muscles and increases glucose uptake into muscle cells. Blood sugar, insulin and triglycerides do not rise as quickly or as high after a meal which helps to lower high cholesterol and stave off diabetes. True believers consider vinegar to be the “people’s pharmacy,” claiming that a regular intake can boost memory, soothe sprained muscles and headaches, make hiccups disappear and treat pimples and pigmentation. Our grandmothers reached for the vinegar to deal with a grab-bag of skin problems, thanks to its ability to inhibit bacterial and yeast growth. A laundry list of irritating issues that still bedevil millions from dandruff to itchy scalp and ears, athlete’s foot and jock itch. Up until the 1980s, vinegar was widely available in most countries in only a few

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variables - red wine, apple cider, malt and distilled white. The Nouvelle Cuisine revolution led to the explosive growth of speciality vinegars from 75-year-old bottles of balsamic costing $100 or more to fruit and herb vinegars. Magazines and newspapers even urged people to make their own infusions as inexpensive Christmas presents to “show you care”. Maybe for a teenager, but anyone older just looked cheap. It’s hard to say why we love vinegary tastes, says Lawrence Diggs, Founder of the International Vinegar Museum in Roslyn, South Dakota, the world’s ﬁrst and only museum dedicated to vinegar. “The brain uses sourness to make sense of many of the scents we smell,” he says. “It’s as if the brain needs that contrast as a palette to paint the rest of our tastes.”

Adding vinegar to anything is a bit of a Yin-Yang thing and the goal is to balance ﬂavours between sweet and sour. Vinegar derives from the French word - vin aigre - or sour wine. “It’s what wine wants to be,” says Diggs. “Wine sours because oxygen oxidises it, creating a friendly environment for the ubiquitous bacteria called acetobacter. As the bacteria consume the alcohol, they convert it to acetic acid. But vinegar can be made from anything that has enough sugar and starch in it. Fruits like raspberries and pineapples, root vegetables like potatoes and beets and even animal products like milk and honey.” Diggs enthusiasm is well-founded. I’ve used vinegar in tart marinades and, at a pinch, to curdle milk into cottage cheese. Following a dark balsamic phase, whose fruity, syrupy richness and wine-like complexity can be as much of a hindrance as a help, I’ve developed a passion for white balsamic vinegar, which is happy with a supporting, not a dominating role.

A character actor rather than an A-list star, it makes a great understudy for rice, white wine, sherry and champagne vinegars. But because it is based on a wine from Modena, the world capital of balsamic vinegar, the white variety can no longer call itself balsamic. In order to protect the Denominazione di Origine Protetta (DOP ) status of red balsamic vinegar, which also distinguishes cheese, prosciutto, extra-virgin olive oil and wine, white wine balsamic has been demoted to white Modena vinegar or white Italian condiment. Even though it begins with the must of the same trebbiano grapes from Emilia-Romagna used in the red version, once used as a gargle and air puriﬁer against the plague. Adding vinegar to anything is a bit of a YinYang thing and the goal is to balance ﬂavours between sweet and sour. The simplest of salad dressings is a blend of three-parts olive oil to one-part vinegar of your choice. Balsamic vinegar mixed with olive oil has become a default bread dip in Italian restaurants at home and abroad. No verjus in the pantry? Just deglaze a pan used to fry chicken with tarragon vinegar to create an instant sauce. Vinegar really comes into its own in summer and not only in salads. Fruit vinegars add a tart touch to fruit salads and can be mixed with sparkling mineral water and sugar for a refreshing thirst quencher. Bland soups can be livened up with a splash of vinegar and it can double as a low-salt soy substitute in stir-fries. The last word goes to Lawrence Diggs, who truly merits his sobriquet, The Vinegar Man. “Look at the reasons why we use vinegar in food processing at home and in industry. It’s an excellent food preservative at a strength of 5 per cent acetic acid and it kills all the organisms that cause illness and decay.” No wonder the fearsome Japanese samurai warriors drank a vinegar tonic to boost strength and power before a battle.

As we wrap up another year and say goodbye to 2017, this coming issue marks the beginning of our 40th Anniversary year! My how time ﬂies when you’re having fun! As such we have decided to create a bumper large-format issue combining both the Wine of the Year Awards edition and the Annual best of the best round-up issue to celebrate. Stay tuned for big birthday celebrations in 2018!

November/December 2017

MEMBER EVENTS NOVEMBER 2017

QUEENSTOWN NZ - Wine of the Year Awards Lunch Thursday 16 November 2017 - Gantleys of Queenstown, NZ 12 noon - 3pm - Tickets available now Contact Peter Jackson: sales@winestate.com.au ADELAIDE - Wine of the Year Awards Friday 24 November 2017 Adelaide Convention Centre, Panorama Suite 1pm – 3pm - Trade Only & By Invitation

JANUARY 2018

PERTH - 2018 Winestate Best of the West & Wine of the Year Tasting Friday 19 January 2018 - 6pm – 8.30pm Perth Hyatt Regency Hotel, Perth, Western Australia (Tickets available now - Subscribers receive two complementary tickets upon request)

APRIL 2018

Cabernet & Bordeaux Night National Wine Centre, Adelaide Friday 6 April, 2018 (6 - 8.30pm) Tickets available early 2018 Vinitaly 2018 - Veronaﬁere, Verona, Italy 15-18 April, 2018 Details at: www.vinitaly.com/en Email Peter Jackson: sales@winestate.com.au

MAY 2018

Mainfreight International Worlds Greatest Shiraz Challenge XIII National Wine Centre, Adelaide Friday 25 May, 2018 (6 - 8.30pm) Tickets available early 2018

SEPTEMBER 2018

Winestate Wine of the Year 2018 Subscriber Tasting National Wine Centre, Adelaide Saturday 1 September 2018 12.00 noon – 2.30pm Tickets available mid 2018

NOVEMBER 2018

HONG KONG - Winestate Wines of Australia HK Exhibition Centre, Wan Chai, HONG KONG 8-10 November 2018 Details at: www.hktdc.com HONG KONG - Winestate Corporate Tasting Event November 8-10 2018 More details mid 2018 Email: Peter Jackson: sales@winestate.com.au

JOIN US TODAY! By becoming a Winestate Member you will receive complimentary tickets to our events!

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