3 minute read
CHEF PROFILE
Nice and spice
We meet Siaka Touray, head chef of the recently reopened St Tudy Inn in Bodmin
Hi Siaka! Can you tell us a little bit about your career to date?
I started my career at the fifth floor of Harvey Nichols back in 1994. I was there for about 10 years and during that time I progressed from chef trainee to head chef, before leaving in 2005. I then moved down to the Riverside (The Riverside bar and restaurant) to see what else I could do. From there, I then worked in various places in London, and moved down to Cornwall in 2014. My first job here was at The Godolphin Arms, and I’ve also had positions at Rick Stein and the Eden Project. Now I’m here, at St Tudy Inn.
When did you know that you wanted to become a chef?
After finishing my A levels, I moved to this country and joined Harvey Nichols. At the time I was a self-financed student studying accounting and finance, so was working in the kitchen at Harvey Nichols as a catering assistant, helping them with salad prep to pay for my course. Then the head chef one day just called me and said he saw potential in me, and was prepared to sponsor me on a course for catering, which meant I had two career options. The course I was doing at the time was going to take me five years to complete, as I had to do it part time, so I could work alongside it, but by the time I would have graduated, I was already a sous chef. I realised whilst completing an accounting internship that I wasn’t interested in an office job and working with data, and in the kitchen there is more interaction with people, so I told my tutor I was going to be a chef. I fell in love with what I was doing whilst on that catering course.
What do you like most about your job?
Every day the feedback I get from the customers just makes my day. It’s the thing I love most about my job, coming to work, cooking some good food and walking through the restaurant to see how people are enjoying the meal I have served them. Every day is a different day in the kitchen and that’s the exciting part.
What do you like about working in Cornwall?
I used to come down to Cornwall on holidays with my family, and we thought this would be a dream place to bring the kids up. The best thing about living here is the work/life balance, going to the beaches, and all the locally produced food straight from the sea or land onto the plate for customers.
Are there any ingredients you particularly enjoy working with? Why those?
I particularly enjoy working with spices and getting the best flavours out of them. I tend to play a lot with them and like all kinds, they don’t need to be hot. I enjoy bringing the aroma out in a simple spice, for example a coriander seed, which really enhances a dish.
Any particular local produce or suppliers you recommend?
I get my fish from Matthew Stevens but buy it directly from Newlyn fish market, which is very good. In terms of a bakery, I think Da Bara Bakery is a really good one as well, although at the minute, I am making my own bread in house. My butcher, Brian Etherington is also great.
Do you have a signature dish?
That’s a difficult question. I just love cooking amazing food, especially seafood, which Cornwall is fantastic for. If I had to choose, it would be lobster thermidore.
What can we expect from dining at St Tudy Inn?
We really try to keep it simple and just cook good food, well. I want them to have a great experience with the flavours and the simplicity of the food.
Anything we MUST try?
The pork belly, braised in marmalade and Szechuan pepper, is a winner. The nduja scotch egg is also really fabulous.
How often do you change the menu?
Well, as we’ve only just opened we haven’t changed the menu yet, but my plan is to make it seasonal and change it at least four times a year. There will also always be a special available, which changes weekly. I’m thinking about putting on a curry night every Wednesday as well, with three curry options, a fiery dish, a mild dish, and a creamy one, which will include a vegan option.
