Spirited 2007 - Volume 1

Winter 2007 | Volume 1

Talking F&B wiTh Jean-Pierre eTcheBerrigaray Food is art to Jean-Pierre etcheberrigaray, and the secret to creating a successful masterwork — whether a restaurant or a meal — is in the details.

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leveraging luxury aT MoëT hennessy usa

CeleBrAtIng tHe

‘CHAMPAgne SeASon’

Moët Hennessy USA’s brands connote elegance, tradition and prestige around the world, from its from Dom Pérignon Champagne to Hennessy Cognac. >> Page 4

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sPoTlighT ProPerTy DArinG to bE DiffErEnt How do you stand out in a restaurant town like Boston?

By offering the delightfully unexpected, from a Provençal-style brasserie to a fun-loving rum bar. F&B Director Helen Douglas and her team at the new InterContinental Boston are breaking the mold and turning the hotel’s soft opening into Beantown buzz. >> Page 5

Crispness, Cleanliness and Attention to Detail Comprise Etcheberrigaray’s Recipe for F&B Success Could you tell us a bit about your foodservice background?

“I was born in the Basque region of France, which is the best terroir, or area of the earth, so far as food products and preparation are concerned. The climate, the land and the culture are all conducive and deeply connected to food and the quality of meals. My grandmother, mother and father cooked at a high level of skill, so food has always been an important part of my life.

“My first F&B job was when I was 13 — I was the ‘charcoal guy’ at a one-star Michelin restaurant in the Pyrenees. My responsibility was to keep the fire in the wood-burning stove at just the right temperature during the meal periods. Later I got a job as a kitchen apprentice, and my career was launched. I’ve worked in restaurants on four continents and 13 countries. One of the most exceptional international experiences for me was when I worked at a hotel in the Middle East, where between 40 and 50 countries were represented among the young people working in the kitchen and dining room. Not only did we have the opportunity to prepare exceptional, deluxe food offerings on the job, but also, on every floor of the staff quarters building where we all lived you’d find a different nationality, along with its unique cuisine and the most wonderful aromas and flavors! It really opened up the world for me, in terms of learning about other cultures.”

What does a great dining experience look like for you?

“Everything must click from A to Z. The sense of arrival is important, how you are received and welcomed. In the U.S., people tend to say ‘hello,’ but I prefer the word ‘welcome,’ in any language. Next, seating arrangements must be comfortable — not necessarily plush, but relaxing. The service must be crisp, sharp, clean and executed with perfect timing. And of course, the food must be exceptional.”

“Overall, I hate restaurants that seem fake or imitative. It’s important to keep things simple, and sometimes that’s more difficult. If the experience is good, people willingly pay for it.”

What’s your favorite food?

“I greatly respect Japanese food, and learned a great deal about it when I worked for a Japanese company in Canada. The Japanese have a splendid food culture and the cuisine is healthy for you — Japan has the world’s highest concentration of people who are 100-plus years old. It’s not just about sushi — though I like sushi very much, when it’s well-prepared. The Japanese use lots of vegetables, fruit and seafood, and boil and cook al dente to retain the juices and vitamins. Other favorites are Chinese food, and Indian food — I like their aggressive, spicier flavors.”

How about your favorite beverage?

“For non-alcoholic beverages, I like artesian water — it reacts well with my body and makes me feel better. Among alcoholic beverages, I enjoy a good, deep red wine — the higher the elevation where the grape is grown, the better. I particularly enjoy Malbec wine from Argentina.”

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Favorite restaurant?

“One of the most fantastic culinary experiences of my life was at the Connaught in London, which is now closed. You could always expect a ballet of service and courses. Other than that, I don’t really have a favorite — I enjoy dining in all the restaurants I have worked with, such as Au Pied de Cochon in Atlanta and Miel in Boston. In most cities I tend to go where I’ve had a great experience in the past.”

When you stay at an IHG property, what are your expectations regarding F&B? “I expect everything to be crisp, clean and on time. The service should be friendly and fast, but not intrusive. Hot things should be hot, and cold things cold. The overall experience should have a natural flow, with everything working together — the lighting, the music and of course, the food. Food and beverage is a world of details, and the success of the dining experience depends on executing them all well.”

When you dine at an IHG hotel, what do you usually order?

“I ask the server what they sell the most of, and order that. If the dish is popular, that means it will be executed well because they make it a lot. That’s not always true of the specials. It doesn’t matter whether it’s fish, meat or poultry—I’m flexible, I eat everything.”

Mineral water or tap?

“Mineral water. Tap water in any city is not guaranteed — you don’t know what you’re getting or what chemical products may be present. But even with bottled water, you must be careful — it’s not just plain water. It’s important to know what minerals your body needs and then check the water you are purchasing to be sure it contains those minerals. Water from artesian wells is best — the Romans taught us that — so I usually choose Fiji. There is also some good bottled water from deep artesian wells in Mississippi and Missouri, as well as many other parts of the world.”

Jean-Pierre Etcheberrigar ay jokes that his wife and son ask for a separate table whenever they dine out, such a stickler is he about little things in the experience. JP shared his view of the magic of details, as well as his F&B likes and dislikes, in a recent interview.

Any recent standout meals at an IHG property?

Any F&B “pet peeves”?

“I had a beautiful lunch at Miel, the restaurant in the new InterContinental Boston. I dined there within five days of its opening, but the team was operating as if they had been open for months. The gutsy menu offerings blew my mind — in the heart of the city of Boston, this Provençal-style brasserie served me the best clam chowder I’ve ever had in my life!”

“Lack of cleanliness in general — dirty uniforms on the staff, dirty glassware, menu covers, chairs, walls, carpet, the wheels of the room service cart — these things cut the appetite and drive me crazy. Also, ordering a glass of wine and having it brought to the table already in a glass — how do I know that it’s the wine I ordered? The wine should always be poured at the table, so that the guest can see the bottle. And, I hate being interrupted by the server during the meal.

Timing is most important, and the wait staff must be smart about the flow of the meal and when to approach the table.”

Do you ever order room service?

“Yes. I’m a typical road warrior and often I will have a quick continental breakfast in my room. When you’re traveling, it’s all about time — should I shower now, or wait until my room service order arrives? That’s why if you are told the meal will arrive in 15 minutes, it should be 15 minutes — no more and no less. I rarely order room service in the evening unless I arrive late. Then I might have French onion soup and a quick Caesar salad or a burger.”

Do you cook at home yourself, and if so, what’s your specialty?

“I did cook, but I have been fired. My wife of 22 years finally said, ‘Out of the kitchen! I’m doing the cooking.’ The reason is that I like to make fantastic sauces with the meals, and that requires lots of pans, for reducing, inducing, adding herbs. It makes a big mess and she doesn’t like it, so I let her do the cooking. I’m in charge of only beverages now.”

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Moët Hennessy USA Combines Tradition and Innovation to Leverage Its Luxury Brands Though a relative newcomer in the world of importing and distributing, Moët Hennessy USA (MHUSA) is already making a name for itself.

Born of a 2005 merger of three well-known distributors — Millennium Import, LLC, Schieffelin & Co. and Clicquot, Inc. — MHUSA is successfully blending the luster of its array of blue-chip brands with a cutting-edge approach to supporting those brands. Innovative efforts in the areas of packaging, product development and retailer co-promotions have already earned MHUSA recognition as “Importer of the Year” in Wine Enthusiast Magazine’s 2006 Wine Star Awards.

The company represents and markets Moët Hennessy’s portfolio of brands in the U.S. That impressive collection includes such classic luxury marques as the champagnes of Moët & Chandon, Krug and Veuve Clicquot, the wines of Casa Lopostolle, Terrazas de los Andes and Cloudy Bay, and the spirits of Hennessy, Grand Marnier, Belvedere, Chopin and Glenmorangie.

MHUSA, which had sales of more than $1 billion in 2005, is wholly owned

by LVMH Louis Vuitton Moët Hennessy (LVMH), one of the world’s most prestigious luxury goods enterprises, with ultra-premium offerings in fashion and leather goods, perfumes and cosmetics, jewelry, publishing and multi-media.

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“Our brands are all about luxury, translating the LVMH top-end focus to spirits, wine and champagne,” says Deborah Hutton, National Accounts Northeast for MHUSA.

Champagne and Cognac The cornerstones of the MHUSA offerings are reflected in the company name. Champagne plays a big role, with the portfolio comprising approximately 240 different SKUs of champagne and sparkling wine under such stellar brands as Moët & Chandon, Clicquot, Dom Pérignon, Krug and Ruinart. “We cover the complete sparkling wine ladder, from nonvintage blends to single vineyard, prestige cuvees,” Hutton says.

The second pillar is Hennessy Cognac, which is enormously successful for MHUSA and is the most profitable spirit in the world. The company invests considerable time educating both the trade and the consumer about the romance and rich history of the brand, as well as the precision and care taken to produce it.

SPOTLIGHT PROPERTY

Innovative Food and Beverage Concepts Start InterContinental Boston Off on the Right Note A few examples: The oldest and most expensive Hennessy cognac, Richard, dates to 1858 and is available in demi-john bottles that wholesale for $1,600 each.

Wood used for the aging barrels comes only from 100-year-old trees, with the staves left outside to cure for three years. And Hennessy’s master blender is seventh generation, meaning, as Hutton explains, that the same genetic “nose” has been overseeing the manufacture of the product for a century and a half. “Details like this help explain why Hennessy Cognac has been No. 1 everywhere in the world since 1765,” she notes.

Breaking the Rules While legacy and tradition rule in MHUSA’s nurturing of the equity of its brands, the company is breaking new ground in a number of areas. This year MHUSA launched the world’s first luxury mixing rum, 10 Cane, a rich Trinidadian product that is also the first entirely original brand MHUSA has developed.

The company also is leading in the area of packaging, introducing the industry’s first non-corked prestige cuvee, for which the traditional stopper is replaced with a crown cap (similar to an old-fashioned soda bottle cap) called a Chandon Etoile.

The landmark production change has been well-received and generated substantial media coverage.

“Champagne is aged in a bottle using a screw cap, with the cork inserted at the time of final bottling,” Hutton explains. “Switching to the Chandon Etoile is a bold move, since the popping of the cork is so much a part of the romance of champagne. But we believe this is another way to communicate how carefully we control the quality of our products. With this type of bottle closure, there is never a ‘cork problem.’”

A Champagne Wetsuit

There’s really nothing “soft” about a soft opening…at least, not the way the F&B team at the InterContinental Boston plays it. Since the sparkling blue-glass hotel on Boston’s historic waterfront opened its doors November 6th — a full four months before the grand opening in March — the team has been playing full out, and taking the city by storm.

“Even for a soft opening, all the pieces must be in place, steps must be properly sequenced and the execution must be seamless,” says Food and Beverage Director Helen Douglas, who has been with InterContinental Hotels for eight years and joined the Boston team two months before opening. “We have an exceptional team, headed by our executive chef, Didier Montarou, and supported by Thomas Reany, executive sous chef, and restaurant chef Cyrille Couet. We were determined to deliver on all our strategies, and become the best thing to hit Boston.”

Early indications are that mission has been accomplished. The hotel’s unique and internationally themed beverage and dining concepts, each the first of its kind in the city, have proven to be winners both with downtown patrons and the media.

Doing the RumBa RumBa, the hotel’s rum and private champagne bar, celebrates New England’s rich history with the rum trade. The assortment of 85 sipping and mixing rums come from all over the Southern Hemisphere, with a strong Caribbean and Latin influence. The signature house cocktail is the Rumbullion, a part-punch, part cider concoction that balances the tangy flavor of pomegranate juice with the sweetness of Bacardi 8, bonded with a secret spice mixture.

The bar attracts a high-energy after-work crowd and mellows into an intimate and romantic spot for couples and small circles of friends later in the evening.

Other dynamic packaging ideas include Veuve Clicquot wine carriers shaped like a small purse and a scuba wetsuit, and a line of limited production Pucci collection pieces in conjunction with the Le Grande Dame Champagne line.

Some of the company’s “renegade” serving ideas move away from traditional champagne flutes.

For example, the sweet flavor of a demi-sec champagne, Moët & Chandon Nectar Imperial, might best be enjoyed served on ice, in a tiny, uniquely shaped glass. For the re-release of a 1988 Rare vintage Veuve Clicquot Champagne, company representatives recommended serving in a very large glass, to better appreciation the nose of this classic, aged product.

“We are always seeking ideas that allow us to add value and reach out to the consumer and the retailer,” Hutton says.

“Our goal is to sell not just the bottle, but the experience of our remarkable products, one brand at a time.”

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‘Tis the season to celebrate — holidays, the New Year, family gatherings — and the most popular beverage to accompany these events is a classic glass of champagne.

Consumers

Popping the Cork on Champagne

More Often

Though the industry faces some challenges, including a still persistent belief that the category is only for special celebrations, champagne is enjoying a resurgence in popularity. According to the Comité Interprofessionnel du Vin de Champagne (CIVC) more than 300 million bottles were exported in 2004, a figure that had not been seen since 1999. The $1.5 billion sparkling wine market in the U.S. has grown steadily from 2003 to 2006, but is expected to slow to a more modest pace this year.

The Hollywood Factor Many attribute this upsurge to the very visible role of champagne as an accessory favored by Hollywood high-profilers and hip-hop musicians enjoying the good life. More likely, it’s because bubbly is no longer reserved for special occasions —champagne houses are taking ground in marketing it as an alternative to still wine and encouraging restaurants to offer a variety of choices that diners can enjoy from appetizers through dessert. Champagne is even being paired successfully with sushi, and producers are tickled pink that rosé champagne is suddenly a must-have with young women. The time from Thanksgiving to New Year’s Eve, however, still is considered prime-time for champagne sales — the period when people are most likely to treat themselves to a bottle to enjoy with family and celebrate the holidays.

Effervescent Competition With all this good news for champagne, producers outside the region are seducing consumers with high quality sparkling wines at lower prices. The French have even gotten into the act — within the last 25 years, hundreds of French champagne houses have started producing sparkling wines in Napa.

In 1973, Domaine Chandon was the first producer outside Champagne to establish itself in Napa, producing sparkling wine using traditional methods.

Today, they are one of Napa’s largest vineyard owners, at approximately 1,100 acres.

Spanish sparkling wines, called cava, are currently the rage in Spain. Because it’s so inexpensive, cava is called “the champagne for the people.” Marketing efforts are largely word-of-mouth, so cava isn’t quite as popular in the United States. But these wines come with a much lower price tag than champagne — some as low as $15 a bottle. According to the Spanish Institute for Foreign Trade, cava accounted for 7.4 percent of all wines exported from Spain in 2004, and the U.S. was responsible for 13 percent of that business.

Italy’s perky prosecco is fruity, summery and can be found for around $20 a bottle. Annual sales of prosecco to the U.S. are on the rise, thanks to Italy’s increased marketing efforts. Spumante is another popular Italian export.

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A final word on French champagne — if you expect to be hosting the Trumps in your bar during the holidays, keep in mind that Pernod Ricard recently announced it will be offering a limited amount of the world’s most expensive champagne — a bottle will cost around $1,900.

SPOTLIGHT PROPERTY (CONTINUED)

The Warmth of Provence The hotel’s main restaurant is Miel, the first full-service, Provençal-themed brasserie in the New England market. The word means “honey” in French and Spanish, and the warm and sunny tones of the décor echo the theme.

The hotel has formed a culinary partnership with worldrenowned Michelin-rated Chef Jacques Chibois, owner and operator of La Bastide Saint Antoine in Grasse, France, to serve as “ambassador chef ” for Miel. Chef Chibois and the hotel’s Chef Montarou have collaborated to develop offerings that highlight the organic wonders of Provence.

Douglas notes the restaurant is drawing the downtown financial district lunch crowd, for whom speed and efficiency, as well as excellent food, are a priority. Consequently, one winning concept is the “Chef ’s Quartet,” a selection of soup or an appetizer, pasta, salad and dessert, served in a bento box.

The hotel’s main restaurant is Miel, the first full-service, Provençal-themed brasserie in the New England market.

The word means “honey” in French and Spanish, and the warm and sunny tones of the décor echo the theme.

Sushi and Tequila?

Rounding out the hotel’s F&B offerings is Sushi-Teq, the hotel’s vibrant salsa bar that is set to open in March. The cutting-edge concept will introduce a cultural fusion of sushi with vintage tequilas from around the world, and the F&B team expects it to also prove a strong area draw.

While the outlets are steadily building business as word gets out in the city, the hotel’s banquet business is booming — the result of a focused effort on the part of the sales team, whose hard work “when there was no building there” led to a strong start, Douglas says.

The banquet and catering staff have already won kudos from such notables as singer Amy Grant, who headlined a highprofile benefit for Operation Kids at the hotel, and the Duchess of York, who heaped praises on the team for an elegant dinner catered in her suite.

Rolling with the Punches With one month of operations under their belts, the InterContinental Boston team is reflective, but not resting on their laurels.

“Our greatest triumph to date is that we opened,” laughs Douglas. “But seriously, planning and communication are essential, so that everyone is on the same page. It’s also important not to try to do everything by yourself. We have an excellent team here at the hotel, but we also reached out to the great InterContinental Hotel system to get additional assistance in certain areas.

“Openings are never smooth — and this was my first. You have to be ready to roll with the punches. We’re delighted with our success so far, and will be diligently tweaking things as we move toward the grand opening.”

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beverage briefs Kicking Champagne Sales Up a Notch To boost holiday season sales of InterContinental Hotels’ house wine, Nicolas Feuillatte, the World Class Beverage Program is launching a fourweek incentive promotion beginning December 15.

“The purpose of the promotion is to drive staff awareness and suggestive selling of Nicolas Feuillatte Champagne during the peak of the holiday season,” says Rene Van Camp, Corporate Beverage Director, the Americas. “The program is mandatory within the U.S. for InterContinental Hotels participating in the World Class Beverage Program.”

Food and beverage managers are being asked to encourage both wait staff and catering staff members to promote and increase sales of the champagne for their properties, and the F&B managers will keep track of individual sales at their hotels. The wait staff and catering staff member who drive the most sales (both bottles and by the glass) during the promotion period will receive an incentive — an iPod Shuffle.

The promotion is being supported with collateral material that includes postcards to be handed out at check-in directing customers to the bar for a glass of champagne, as well as with back-of-the-house posters to keep the brand foremost in the servers’ minds.

“Champagne is a product that stands for quality and tends to drive revenues, and hotels naturally sell more of it during the holiday period,” Van Camp says. “We are using the promotion and the accompanying collateral to keep these facts at the forefront for our employees, so that they maximize the selling opportunity.”

Toasting the Glories of Champagne Champagne, France, is considered the birthplace of bubbly, though it’s more likely the legendary wine was perfected, rather than invented, there.

Located 90 miles northeast of Paris, the region was famous during the 12th and 13th centuries for its Champagne Fairs, where merchants from around Europe traded textiles. In 1314, Champagne became a province of the royal domain of France.

In 1688, Benedictine monk Dom Pierre Pérignon came to the region to serve as treasurer for a local abbey. His duties included managing and saving their precious still wines — bottles exploded when dormant yeast inside awakened and expanded in warmer months. Instead, Pérignon grew to love the sparkling spirits, likening them to drinking stars. He introduced heavier bottles and held corks tight with rope. By the end of the 17th century, champagne was the drink of kings. During the 19th century, it was a major export to the Russian Tzars. Today, more than 75,000 acres of vineyards are planted in the region’s chalky soil.

To be called champagne, this pedigreed potion must be produced in the Champagne-Ardenne region, which includes Montagne de Reims,

3 Ravina Drive Suite 100 Atlanta, GA 30346 www.ihgbeverage.com

the Vallée de la Marne, the Côte des Blancs and Aube. The wine must also be prepared in the méthode champenoise, which requires a second fermentation. Producers blend grapes to create a variety of champagnes, including blanc de blanc, made from white Chardonnay grapes; blanc de noirs, made from Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier grapes; rosés, produced by adding Pinot Noir or pressed grape skins prior to the second fermentation, and special vintages produced in exceptional harvest years.

Added sugar determines the sweetness of champagne. Extra brut, ultra brut, brut intégral or brut zéro designate those with the least amounts of sugar; brut, the most popular variety, has very little added sugar; sec and demi-sec are slightly sweeter; doux is the sweetest.

Champagne-type wines produced in other locations, such as Italy and California, are called sparkling wine, spumante, frizzante and cava. France’s other winemaking regions produce sparking wines, called crémant.

Champagne and sparkling wine can be stored for years in a cool, dark place, and are best served chilled in a champagne flute. To properly open a bottle, remove the foil and loosen the wire. Place one hand firmly on top of the cork and wire, and turn the bottle — not the cork — with your other hand. The cork should dislodge gently.

Regional Attractions There are hundreds of champagne producers in the region, many along “La Route Touristique du Champagne,” including Louis Roederer (makers of Cristal), Moët & Chandon (makers of Dom Pérignon), Krug, Perrier Jouët and Taittinger. For those who prefer not to drink and drive, Épernay is a popular destination — its Avenue de Champagne features shops representing all the major producers.

Troyes, once the medieval capital of Champagne, is now home to alligator-adorned sportswear king Lacoste. The city center is arranged in the shape of a champagne cork. The town’s half-timber houses and a World War I memorial make for an interesting visit.

For another taste of medieval times, visit the ancient limestone fortress at Langres. And don’t miss the cathedral in Reims, where France’s kings were once crowned.