Alchemy Desert MusicFestival 2012 by IJsbreker

A journey of a thousand miles, must begin with a single step Lao Tzu What................................................ 4 Where..............................................5 Why.................................................. 6 When................................................8 Your personal guideline Organisation and guide.....12 Ticket information..............17 Tuareg culture.....................18 Practical budget.................19 Dinnertime..............................20 Off you go 23 Transport.............................24 hotels.....................................29 insurances ...........................30 travel documents................31 safety and health.............34 religion...................................38 handy tools.........................40 Ready to go Checklist...............................43

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WHAT This booklet is about Alchemy at Zahar, this is an unique musical festival at the in the Sahara desert. Due to its unique setting it is the very first festival to keep in mind when you are planning your next cultural vacation. Alchemy is an international musical meeting. It gives tourists the opportunity to exchange stories and to look into the lives of the Tuareg people, with the sound of artists in the background, coming from all corners of the planet. All this is made possible by the support support of the Kingdom of Morocco. Friendly fire The festival is expecting to welcome approximately 5000 guests, one third of the visitors come to this festival for the location and the music it is offering. The other visitors are mainly people from all over Morocco, to meet

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WHere The Screaming dune is about an hour from the – touristic - oase of in Morocco. The road leads through the fascinating Tichka pass, where there is a great variety of mountain landscapes to see before you get into the desert. From Marrakech, it is seven hours of traveling through the stunning mountain area. Accompanied by the most experienced drivers of the CTM company of Marrakech.

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WHY Not only the unique setting, pointed out before, should be a reason to go to this festival (nor the fact that you travel trough the setting of films as Laurence of Arabia and Star Wars) The festival supports some humanitarian projects as well. The main goal of the festival is, to finance 7 to 15 solar well pumps for M’hamid el Ghizlane, the capital city of the Aarib Tuareg. There are many other local projects to support as well. Because of the draught in the mid fifties, a lot of Tuareg – nomads of the Sahara desert - settled down in this village in an area that displays resemblance with the Wild West. The current installations are not sufficient for the people living in this area. So there is an urgent need for new wells, to provide enough water for living here, as well as to provide new jobs as ‘well-keepers,’ people who keep the well in a good condition. ••••••••••••

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When The festival lasts for four days, it starts on the and ends on the The camp side will open its doors on the 26th of September, giving you the possibility to start the day with a delicious breakfast first thing next morning and arrive early at the festival site. In this case, you can not miss the first show.

One's destination is never a place but a new way of seeing things Henry Miles ••••••••••••

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Let yourself be inspired by the following artists Opening ceremony Group Seqal Brothers Unconnected Secret Chiefs 3 – UR Gnawa Diffusion ThisQuietArmy DJ Boulaouane

4:30pm 5:00pm - 5:45pm - 8:00pm - 10pm - 0:30am - 1:30am -

5:40pm 7:30pm 9:30pm midnight 1:30am 3:00am

Malouma Secret Chiefs 3 - Ishraqiyun Tinariwen Aethenor Master Musicians Of Bukkake

5:15pm - 7:15pm - 9:00pm - 11pm - 0:30am -

6:45pm 8:30pm 10:30pm midnight 1:30am

Al Madar Sir Richard Bishop Secret Chiefs 3 Stephen O’Malley

6:45pm - 8:45pm - 10:30pm - 0:30am -

8:15pm 10:00pm midnight 1:15am

Alvarius B. Eyvind Kang & Jessika Kenney Bombino Master Musicians Of Bukkake

5:00pm - 6:15pm - 8:00pm - 10pm -

6:10pm 7:30pm 9:30pm midnight

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YOUR PERSONAL GUIDeLINE

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When the necessary preparations are done, you can step aboard with a clear conscience. Direction? . During this journey, you will have the time to do some reading. Here, we enumerate the main facts about Alchemy at Zahar, the Tuareg culture and life in the Sahara. You will also find out more about its organization. After this, we will guide you through the preparations.

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GOING THROUGH WHAT-TO-DO LIST WITHOUT THE HOW-TO QUESTION MARKS

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Pleased to meet you Basile Marrero is the president of the Association Alchemy. For this festival, he works with the Moroccan government, whom has a great share in the realization of the festival. Marrero visited the town of M’Hamid for many times over the last 4 years and he has built a relation of trust with the Tuareg. In 2009, he visited the former nomads for the first time. He expected to see much more caravans

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in such a desert area, but as a matter of fact, he saw the negligence of the authentic Tuareg culture in M’Hamid instead. Unique character Marrero’s concern have laid the foundation for the festival of Alchemy, which orginazes non-profit events for the people in M’Hamid, and specially for the younger ones, to maintain their unique and precious character. But Marrero negotiates also with international artists and he is orginising workshops and events in his hometown France.

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From

Trough

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Tourism is a bridge between people and civilization, an act of mingling people and cultures and by its nature, an openness to the other King Mohammed VI of Morocco

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Pleased to meet you Hmad ships in, especially concerning governmental support and cooperation for Moroccan local charities. Quite so, he is preoccupied with the problem of alphabetization in his country. And therefore, he started up the Association for Alphabetization in Tagounite and the Province of Zagora. Besides this, he works on other projects to help his compatriots with special needs.

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Pleased to meet you Houssine, your most honest guide in town, is here to help you through the Tuareg culture in M’Hamid el Ghizlane. Look after him at the local café

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‘Le Petit Prince.’ Everyone in the village knows the place, which is the information center as well. Go to the end of M’Hamid, there where the desert begins. Don’t be shy to drink a local aperitif in front of the counter while exchanging the festival e-ticket for a wristband. Given the circumstances, you will wear it like you never wore a wristband before!

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Visitors of the festival Alchemy at Zahar can purchase a 4 day pass of 225€, that includes : transportation by 4x4 from M’Hamid el Ghizlane to the campsite near the Dune of Zahar an access to all concerts and visitors zone 3 liters of water a day, depending on the time of arrival a sleeping facility in a Tuareg tent from September 26th to 30th 4 traditional breakfasts until October the1st, transportation from the Dune of Zahar to M’Hamid el Ghizlane, again with the 4x4 an optional dromedary ride from the campsite to the projects area more info: www.alchemyatzahar.com

Ticket you say ?

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tuareg The Aarib Tuareg are very open-minded. They belong to a former nomadic mountain tribe. Some men of M’Hamid maintain authoritative relationships with distinguished people from the Kingdom of Morocco. The men are known for their veiled outfit in a deep blue - indigo color which gives off on their skin. That is why they are also called; the blue men of the desert. Agriculture and tourism They often depend on private trade in local goods, such as salt and dates. The caravan trade, of what they were known, has vanished. The Aaribs are settled, since the draught of the fifties, in the town of M’Hamid, other tribes live in camps in the desert. They do so, of agriculture, trade and of tourists from the Province of Zagora.

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budget The currency of Morocco is the dirham maroccain (DIM) Best is, to exchange your money at the Bank of Morocco on arrival, instead of the exchange offices at the airport or at the station. A bank has obviously the most accurate view of the exchange rates. However, these rates are quite favourable for you, for most of the time. How much money do I have to bring with me, you think? Bank on about: 225€ for the festival it self approximately 65€ for transportation to M’Hamid el Ghizlane and back going out for dinner is usually not expensive, bank on approximately 3 (!) to 20€ for a delicious meal you can negotiate the prizes in the Souks, sunglasses could cost you for that matter only a few euros ••••••••••••

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dinnertime !

At the festival, it’s difficult to make a choice between the food stands, which are represented by countries from nearby to the farest corners of the world, as Alchemy at Zahar is mainly a multicultural affair.

Several countries around the world promote their own wares. So do not expect a of dates all the time. Maybe, you will find the traditional Charmilla’s of an excellent taste. For those who want to test their sense of taste at home: ••••••••••••

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for 4 to 6 people:

3 green paprikas 3 ripe tomatoes 3 teaspoons of pepper 1 chopped clove of garlic 1 spoon of parsley and coriander 1 spoon olive oil 1 spoon of salt ½ spoon of powdered paprika ½ spoon of ground allspice ½ teaspoon of powdered cumin Grill the paprikas for about 15 minutes in the preheated oven at 240°C and turn them occasionally until the skin turns black. Remove the skins, stalks and seeds. Rinse under cold water. Than, cut the paprikas into little cubes. Rinse the tomatoes under cold water, cut them crosswise, dip them in boiling water for 10 seconds and remove the skin. Remove the seeds and then cut the flesh into small cubes. Peel the garlic and finely chop. Add the peppers and tomatoes in a saucepan. Add the garlic, paprika and ground allspice, cumin, parsley and coriander, olive oil, salt and pepper as well. Mix everything together. Leave for 15 minutes over medium heat cooking. Serve hot or cold.

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off you go But we can see you wondering how. Planning a vacation is always a bit of a quest, of finding the journey that suits your needs. Traveling to the desert, is maybe an ever bigger quest. But do not let yourself be deterred by the planning and searching, we are here to invite and help you. First of all, keep in mind that the journey is as beautiful as the destination it self. As Jack Kerouac once wrote; ‘Our battered suitcases were piled on the sidewalk again, we had longer ways to go. But no matter what, the road is life.’

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Let’s start organising your vacation. The festival lasts for four days, due to the journey, you should take in account that you need a week to do this. Unless you live in Morocco or a neighboring country, and you have unlimited free time, a plane is the best way to get to Morocco.

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Transport

Flying

There are no direct flights to M’hamid, so you should fly to there where is an airport of course. The place the closest to the festival area is Ouarzazate, the film capital of Morocco. Here, you can be easily picked up by the bus, which goes directly to M’Hamid. Last stop A more convenient way is to fly to Marrakech, a vibrant metropol that’s also worth considering a little stay and explore. From Marrakech there are a number of options to get to your destination: you could take a bus, taxi or you can rent a car. There are no trains. This is because M’hamid is the last stop on this road before you are in full desert. ••••••••••••

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Easy flying Royal Air Maroc Flights directly to Marrakech www.royalairmaroc.com

Iberia Stopover in Madrid www.iberia.com

Cheap flying Jet 4 You Morocco’s low cost company www.jet4you.com

Ryanair The most well-know of all www.ryanair.com

Easy Jet Might be worth the detour www.easyjet.com

Solid flying www.airfrance.com

www.swiss.com

www.britishairways.com

www.flytap.com

www.brusselsairlines.com

and many more

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casablanca If you should decide to fly on Casablanca instead of Marrakech which you could do for uncountable reasons - you can take a train from the arrivals at the airport which will bring you in no time straight to the largest train station in town. Traveling from here to Marrakech, would only take three hours of your time.

www.ctm.ma Ave Hassan II

Marrakech

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To travel from large cities to smaller villages nearby, towns in the mountains, or even towns in the desert, a bus would be convenient. At a ten minute walk from the station lays the central bus station where you will be able to consult a varied time schedule of bus departures in the elaborated area of Marrakech. CTM will have his own festival shuttles, departing from Marrakech to M’Hamid. The ticket reservation could be immaculate submitted by the staff of your hotel either. •••••••••••• •••••••••••• •••••••••••• ••••••••••••

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Tanger Agadir, as the captial of the Assuming you have a bit Agadir Province and the more time, or you live in Spain, you could also take Sous-Massa-Draa economic region in which the festithe ferry from Spain to Tanger. In Tanger you can val is located, is also a interesting stop to fly to. From hop on the night train to the airport you can take Marrakech by reserving tour ticket at the locket or the bus to Marrakech from by the helping hand from approximately 90 dirham the staff of your hotel. This only. And in this way, one man could see something. last suggestion would be Agadir possesses astonishthe most cunning way, ing beaches so it would be given that the night train worth the detour anyway. is often fully booked for months in advance. Nevertheless, the passage is worth every hour of your ‘lost’ time, within eleven hours you will see the most overwhelming Train Departures from all over Morocco: landscapes and unique scenes, at the other hand, www.oncf.ma you might miss the festival, unless you depart right away!

Agadir

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joe le taxi Grand taxi In case your are traveling in a party of four, it might be the best and by far the cheapest solution to call a taxi. Namely, le grand taxi. Not seldom it is an old Mercedes van, but nevertheless, it can bring you almost everywhere in Morocco. Even the most remote villages. This convenience offers you to explore freely the magnificent Moroccan nature. ••••••••••• 28 ••••••••••••

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17 Derb Allilich Kaat Ben Nahid, Medina www.darlallafdila.com

Stay It is relatively easy to find a cheap hotel, although often of excellent quality. The prices of the most luxurious rooms are comparable with the less fortunate rooms in Europe. You can book a hotel online with the help of a variety of convenient online booking tools, such as booking.com, kayak.com and expedia.com. Of course you are also free to enter the offices of the big travel agencies nearby.

What is the convenience about online booking? You are able to view the reactions and experiences of former guests. On Tripadivsor.com you can find a lot of travel information as well, primarily from people like me and you, and it can come in handy too, that you can read the reviews of local restaurants.

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20 Hay Salam, Derb El Kheir www.riadkhol.com

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132 Derb aghrab bab Aylen www.riadtamarrakecht.com

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Insurances Before you take off, look in what kind of insurance company you already have signed in. Does your health insurance cover you on your trip? Check the policies of the insurance package. Some important components of a travel insurance are: assistance to individuals (this is necessary to reduce possible medical costs) sickness or an accident. Compare formulas Do not take too light a view of the safety conditions. You have to realize, that if you suffer from a poor health, there might be occurring some complications. In that case, it is wise to take measure for a second or even a third travel assurance. After all, this assists you in rescue costs, the cost of drugs, or the loss of your baggage. Compare the formulas from one agency to another.

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If you are on your way to Morocco, on the plane or train you will receive a small application form. On this paper, you have to fill in your personal data and the purpose of your staying, such as for work or for leisure. At the airport customs you will receive in order of your application a stamp, which indicates the date of arrival in Morocco.

Following things you have to have at hand, at all times, no matter the circumstances: application form passport photos a copy of your passport stamp (60 dirham, available in a Bureau de Tabac) a document that indicates where you live But anyhow, in most cases you just need to bring your passport with you.

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Long-term travel doesn’t require a massive bundle of cash it requires only that we walk through the world in a more deliberate way Rolf Potts

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Obviously, you will need to bring over a passport of your home country. A international passport is also a useful addition to your travel documents, but it is not required though. At the City Counsil, you can apply for it, together with two passport photos. A suggestion: the little sheds that you can find in train stations or at major retailers can also shoot pictures of surprisingly good quality and they are much cheaper compared with your local photographer.

Outside the EU you will need a visa to enter a foreign country. For more information about this topic, please call the Moroccan tourist office in Morocco: + 212 537 67 40 13 + 212 537 67 39 18

020 7437 0073 01 4260 4724

Tourist Service It is also useful, to bring along an extra amount of passport photos of yourself. You never know what you might need them for.

00492 1137 0551 02 5830 3633

www.visitmorocco.org

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7 Rue Madnine Rabat +212 037 709 662 40 Rue de Tunis Rabat +212 537 219 600

28 Avenue Sidi Mohammed Rabat +212 537 63 33 33 3 Rue Sahnoun Rabat +212 537 68 97 00

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Safety For tourists, Morocco is, along with Turkey, the most open-minded and safest destination of all the Islamic countries. The government of Morocco takes a great responsibility in whole Morocco. However, the chance exists that you could fall victim to small crimes. But let us not disturb the holiday in advance by this, shall we? Do not bring too much cash in your pocket, in any case. When bad luck is at your sight and you even lose your credit cards, call immediately to your card provider, so he can block your account. In case of theft of important documents (such as your passport) you should make contact with the embassy of your country.

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Prepared for the oh oh do not hitchhike behave decently near mosques and universities show respect for women and chiefly for the culture of the Tuareg watch out for pickpockets though and watch out for drug dealers who are not shy to try to sell it to you on the streets follow the appropriate safety conditions as given in the Sahara desert Morocco has anyhow a fairly low crime rate

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Health The doctor can give you a physical before departure, so you are completely in medical order for traveling. And now you are there anyway, the doctor can create a list of substances of which you are allergic to. This is useful in case you have to consult a local doctor in Morocco. If you are on medication that are not included in the basic list of your medicine case, then it is best to ask your doctor to write a note for that. ••••••••••• 36 ••••••••••••

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And then there is this: if you want to avoid diarrhea optimally, you must eat as much warmserved meals as possible and drink bottled water only. At the festival, bottles of water will be distribute by the organization, because you better not drink the running water that is available in M’Hamid. Keep one or two empty bottles near you, so you can refill. Anyway, still having the shits? Drink throughout the day about three to five liters of water and take an opioid pill from

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time to time. Does the diarrhea not pass - annoying - eat only small meals based on pasta or rice and ... Bananas! For the women who take a contraceptive pill, one must take an double dose to keep up its effect. Desert booze The maximum alcohol that will be allowed at the festival will be no more than 1 liter (that is about four cups) a day. Such thing is rather unusual in a Muslim country so deal with it rationally. This precaution serves not only to show respect for the country and the religion of its inhabitants, but also for yourself, unless you are planning to be completely evaporated within a few days.

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Take off in good health conditions Wash your hands carefully to avoid diarrhea Avoid water that has been drained. Even if you brush your teeth, you should use water bottles Protect head, skin and eyes from the sun Disinfect every wound, how trivial it may seem Do not pet dogs and wild animals as well. Not only to avoid a snap (they can be hungry) but also because they could have the rabies. Avoid as possible swimming in fresh waters. A worm affection likes to live there. A preventive remedy does not exist It can be useful to bring an indication against the inoculation of Cholera with you, signed by your doctor In Africa, it is obligatory to vaccinate against this illness. For preventive remedies, do not go to the local pharmacy because some substances could be actually dangerous

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Religion In northern Africa, the Berber’s faith has his roots deep down in the ancient Egyptian civilization. They are known for the use of various tribes such as honouring ancestors and deceased family members. The vast majority of North Africa swears by the Islamic faith. The Aaribs are not strictly religious-driven but do so, however, respect both religions, either with a grain of salt. The Aarib Tuareg does not live punctually by the book of Islam. In Marrakech you can feel the Islamic culture much stronger, although there are a lot of tourists (mainly French people) For this occasion, perhaps you can apply a man who can serve as a matter of mutual interest in bars and restaurants. ••••••••••••

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Souks These are the typical busy Moroccan shopping streets, where you can wander for hours. ‘But not all those who wander are lost’, J.R.R. Tolkien once said. The souks of Marrakech are the largest in whole the country. Both Moroccans as tourists move in the crowd looking for crafts over there. You can find absolutely everything. From homemade clothing to carpets, leather wear, jewelry, spices, ceramics and wooden furniture that is made on the spot. The heart of Marrakech’s shopping experience is found at Jemaa el Fna. ••••••••••••

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In this sprawling square, performers gather in the late afternoon and into the evening. Cobra dance Watch a cobra dance to the sway of a wooden flute, photograph the colorful watersellers with their chests covered in dangling brass cups or have a look at the ‘dentist’, whose quick extraction skills are advertised by a table full of teeth. Behind the square lies the souk, with miles of twisting walkways that offer an array of goods.

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time In Morocco, it is an hour earlier than in Western Europe. Therefore, its time corresponds to Britain.

Climate During the festival the south of Morocco experiences high temperatures of 38°C on average. But it cools down by night. These temperatures have one advantage though; no mosquito bites!

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to ask after a specific number police ambulance and fire department

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words The Tuareg are very proud of their own language; Tamasheq, that drew some inspiration from Latin. However, most people in Morocco speak a Moroccan Arabic. Many people can speak French as well, because of its French history. Some useful words in Moroccan Arabic: No Yes Thank You Hello How are you? I’m fine thanks, and you? My name is Pleased to meet you Goodbye Excuse me Please Where’s the toilet?

La Iyeah Shukran Sallam all Koum f: kidayra m: kidayr Ana bekhīr shukran, wenta? Smītī Metšerrfīn Slama Smeh līya Afak Fīn kein lbīt lma?

Bread Vegetarian Money How much does it cost? Good Too much! Satisfied (f.e. after dinner) Coffee (with milk) Help! Tea Black tea

L’hoves Khudra Fluss Bshall fluss? Meyen Besef! Saha Kowa (halib) Teqnī! Atay (Moroccan mint tea) Tea Englesi

Get lost! Go away!

Kawed! Teinï Ttïsa!

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checklist TIME I would like to go off to Morocco I feel the urge to discover new bands I have enough cash saved in my pocket I have tried the Charmilla’s I have bought my festival ticket I have bought my transport ticket I reserved my hotel room in Marrakech I have signed with an travel insurance company I have been to the doctor I have my travel documents in my pocket I have learned some Arabic words I do not forget my enthusiasm!

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Facts

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Notes

This PocketNote booklet of Alchemy of Zahar is a realisation of ©IJsbreker nv. Belgium. Editorial staff Herman Vanaerschot and Wolf Van de Casteele. Layout & text Lara Grieten www.ijsbreker.be. Special thanks to Basile Marrero, www.alchemyatzahar.com. Photography Herman Vanaerschot, Basile Marrero, David Stanley, Inneke Hemminga, Swiatoslaw Wojtkowiak and Vince Millet. Contributing quotes by Dixie Dansercoer. www. alchemyatzahar.com www.royalairmaroc.com, www.easyvoyage.co.uk, www.ru.nl, www.take-a-trip.eu, www.travellady.com, www.wildland. com, www.okayplayer.com.

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The world is a book and those who do not travel read only one page . St. Augustine