JENNY PACKHAM

Talking to Jenny Packham

The Bridal Council is a US non-profit organisation whose membership consists of fashion designers, retailers, media and industry experts. Rachel Leonard, its Editorial Director, talked to Jenny Packham, whose autobiography should be on your coffee table in the spring

1 How many years have you been in business and did you start with bridal or evening?

We started our business over 30 years ago when I was very young with a collection of eveningwear.

2 How and when did you broaden your offering to include bridalwear?

I started to design bridalwear in 2004. There’s is a synergy with eveningwear and it seemed like a natural progression.

3 When did you first know that 1930s glamour was going to be the cornerstone of your design aesthetic?

Although I am drawn to that era for its sublime aesthetic, I am always searching for new inspiration to add modernity.

4 What is the inspiration behind your upcoming bridal collection?

The inspiration for the new collection – which became quite a challenge to produce during lockdown – was in a way the shock of our predicament and how to survive within the new rules. More than ever I wanted to create a beautiful collection, which would engender feelings of hope and bring real pleasure.

world with the pandemic and postponement of weddings, are brides still looking for the dress of their dreams in the same way?

I don’t think so… and I think it is too early to see the outcome in terms of bridal fashion but often harsh situations give way to liberation and change and what has gone before loses its attraction.

6 Tell us about the launch of the new book, How To Make A Dress. What is it about and when does come out?

The book is published by Ebury and will be available in early March. It’s a personal and honest memoir of my life in fashion but also a look into our fascinating relationship with our clothes. There is, of course, a chapter that focuses on bridal.

7 Is designing a red-carpet dress for a celebrity a different discipline to that of designing a wedding dress?

I think they are very different. A red carpet dress is designed to reflect a moment in a star’s life – her mood and how at that time she desires to be seen. The wedding dress, hopefully like the marriage, is forever and therefore should reflect not only the magic of the moment but also the other-worldly experience of that day.

change as a result of the pandemic?

I hope not.

9 Are celebrities any different when choosing a dress for their wedding than your other brides? Any memorable moments?

Recently we made Hilary Duff’s wedding dress. Hilary was clear about the look she wanted, which was a strong silhouette with a sculptured shoulder and cape-like sleeves. It was a look I particularly like and it was a thrill to create it for her.

Long distant dress designing has its challenges and there is a frustration at not being able to be there but it all worked beautifully; she was a very happy bride.

10 During the pandemic lockdown, did you do anything creative over that period of time?

When lockdown started I couldn’t design. Everything felt so sad and I decided to ‘tidy’ my studio, to still my thoughts, and to do something useful. I found so many wonderful things and gradually became inspired. The short reprieve from the relentless workload gave way to a sense of freedom when I began to sketch. That felt good.

How to Make A Dress will be published 4 March 2021. ISBN 9781529103021, £22

TEN QUESTIONS TO The House Of Mooshki

There is no question about the Mooshki look – it is instantly recognisable with a defined sense of style that is vital in these days of look-alikes

1 Who is behind the label and when was it launched?

House of Mooshki was formed in late 2009 by managing director Vikki McCarthy-Wright.

2 What was Vikki’s vision? What did she see as the personality that would make the brand stand out in a very crowded marketplace?

We shortened a ballgown we had designed and the signature our own factory in the Far East who Mooshki look was born. We are only make for us, which means we now the biggest brand in the world have complete control of the whole producing short tea-length wedding manufacturing process. dresses and we have a massive army of fans. 4 Fabrics - where are they sourced? When it comes to our fabric choice, 3 Where is the line produced and we scour the world markets and where is it designed and by whom? specialist producers to find the best, Everything is originated in the UK from New York to the Far East and and finished in the UK. We have everywhere in between. And we do

that sourcing in person so we can see and touch the quality; we have to ensure that a particular fabric is right for us and therefore right for our brides.

5 What have you found is the best way of promoting the label?

Pinterest! It’s where almost all our brides find us initially. Heavy promotion is undertaken through our social media in general but the best promotion is word of mouth.

6 And during the recent very difficult months, how have you reached your stockists and, ultimately brides themselves?

Again, through social media and being active and present. We aren’t the sort of people who try and gloss over any significant issues that affect the world. If something is bad (like the worldwide pandemic has been) we try to tell it like it is but with the addition of some good humour.

7 Where is your biggest market?

Our biggest market is the UK but in a typical year we would normally visit two or three cities in the USA, twice each, so that’s a massive market for us. We see brides individually in our hotel suite and design their dresses together. We carry anywhere between 40-60 dresses with us in a broad range of styles and sizes to ensure we have the makings of their perfect dress.

8 With two seasons of no trade events, have you found sales have dipped overall?

Of course we have; anybody who says different is lying to themselves! It’s been difficult but with dynamic thought, careful planning and being one step ahead of the competition we can ensure we are set for the future.

9 Are short dresses doing better than long because of the changes

in wedding days themselves?

Short dresses have always been our main focus and there has been a definite upsurge in interest. The benefits of a Mooshki tea-length dress is the ease of movement, the relaxed elegance but no compromise on bridal style.

10 Plans going forward please

We have just purchased a Victorian Pumphouse to renovate and turn into a wedding venue. It was built in 1873 and has been largely untouched since the end of the Second World War so it’s a mammoth task but the results will be amazing. The reaction already has been fantastic and booking enquiries are already flooding in for 2021 and 2022. From the brides we have been speaking to, 2022 seems to be the light at the end of this covid tunnel.