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PETA’S PICK
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Wow! Entering Harrogate on the Sunday morning was like time travelling; we stepped through the doors, and the past 18 months of Covid chaos were completely eradicated
Sara Groom, of Hitched, and I always drive up to Harrogate on a Sunday morning, fuelled by coffee. En route we put the bridal world to rights, and often come up with crazy schemes and great ideas which further down the line we work on. It’s like a bluesky meeting room in a Smart car. (My Micra got us up there for years through thick and thin, snow, wind, rain, petrol shortages, lorries catching fire in front of us, but when the final windscreen wiper wiped itself off the windscreen,
HOUSE OF ST PATRICK AMSALE
ELLIS BRIDALS
VESTAL I knew it was time to say goodbye, hence the Smart car and the start of a new era.)
It was nice to see that some things never change though. The drive-in sex shops on the side of A1 are still there – they always make me wonder… and laugh! And they act as a road marker; we know we don’t have long to go before we hit beautiful Harrogate.
Hello bridal world
What a delight to be back in the realm of bridal. As I don’t have to create bridal pages anymore, just Instagram, style shoots, consultancy work and trendwatch, in theory it allowed me time to catch up with much-missed colleagues and friends. Instead of my usual of trying to catch up, photographing dresses and calling them in at the same time.
So this overview represents the ramblings of a freelance stylist – well that was the plan – but the reality is more like the writings of a small overexcited child flitting from one stand to another, so delighted to see all the satin, silk sequins, lace and tulle. Oh, how I’ve missed you… I didn’t realise how much until I started to walk through the halls.
The actual exhibition was a lot busier than I had imagined, but luckily it flowed well. Well done Wendy, and her team. And here are my highlights – in no particular order and definitely no nil points here…
Let’s go
The Eliza Jane Howell stand was rammed, but I managed see some amazing beaded dresses, plus some lovely feathery pieces, and catch up with Gill who’s been working with a lot of secret celebrity clients both here and in Hollywood – it’s so nice to have a designer whose work is appreciated on the red carpet as well as the aisle.
For me it’s always been important that a designer has their own handwriting and you know what you’re going to get with Eliza Jane Howell. And there’s always a showstopper fit for any window or Strictly Come Dancing.
I was really impressed with Donna Solado and Mark Lesley, their collections had some stunning new necklines and a lot of crisp, fresh, easy-to-wear styles – loved the Bridgerton-inspired lace dress, and the drama of V-back Mercado dress with a big bow. It is a large collection but well put together and it flowed (I know. I witter on about ‘flowing’ but it is important that a line works and one part moves effortlessly into another; it makes you realise how much hard work goes into putting a stand and collection together.)
For me, it was nice to see a more compact bridesmaids range – I like to see the key colours – I think it helps to focus when you have less sometimes. (And yes, I am going through a house declutter at the moment – my
JLM
goodness just how much stuff can a person gather? I am worried that I am going to end up on a hoarding TV programme drowning under a sea of dresses and knick knacks.)
Back to the Halls. Love Story Bridal was a new brand to me, very well priced, with simple shapes. The crêpe had a nice modern vibe about it for the unfussy bride. I thought it was a very easy-to-like collection and I hope they do well.
As always had a really good chat on the JLM stand (yes, we swapped pictures of cats dogs and caught up which was lovely). The reason why I couldn’t be a great buyer was Illustrated perfectly on this stand – I am drawn to dresses that sparkle and there was so much choice, I couldn’t pick my favourite ten let alone two: I think with my eyes and not with my head! So good luck to all buyers, you have my respect. Lazaro’s dresses twinkled and were beautifully cut, plenty of blush and cream choices too. I’ve always been a big fan of JLM because the pieces are so light and easy to pack. I know I’ve only really dealt with models in the past, but these dresses do seem to suit most girls and work in every destination.
Ellis Bridals had a minimalist stand which I loved, because it showed off their new collection perfectly. I really liked their lace gowns – well, I liked the actual lace fabrics – they felt lux, and their big dresses with pockets are so easy to wear and look amazing. (Big skirts should feature pockets, in my world that would be a law.)
This is a very sophisticated, elegant range, perfect for the modern bridal. The new collection seems much more focused and with its own strong handwriting. Affordable luxury sums it up for me and I liked that it is a complete contrast to their
JUSTIN ALEXANDER fun boho Kelsey Rose collection. Congratulations to James and the team for continuing a brand that has such heritage and moving it forward.
It was a nice surprise to see that Amsale was over from the US. They brought their short dresses, which do amazingly well both on Instagram and in store. Their LWD (for that read Little White Dress) range is really successful in the US; the gowns are at a good price and it was nice to see plenty of UK stockists on their stand. A big thumbs up from me was the main range including a wonderful satin dress with a daisy embellished tulle cape.
Didn’t get a chance to speak to Marguerite at Alan Hannah as she was busy with buyers, so I settled for a quick chat with Alan himself. They were showing Mia Mia and AH, and have a great selection of separates which all inter-change perfectly.
One of the joys of having a UKbased designer house is that they can offer that personal touch, so if a bride wants a different sleeve (why, you must ask, when there are already so many great sleeves?) it is doable.
I do love the off-the-shoulder jumpsuit and there are lots of interesting necklines, and flattering, well cut dresses, with that Alan Hannah touch. For me, it’s so important that a dress moves well; it’s all very lovely standing still, but you must be able to walk, dance, eat in your dress and AH uses beautiful fabrics that that feel and look special. And I love satin-backed crepe.
There’s been a lot of chatter about Madi Lane so it’s nice to see it in the flesh 18 months on, light and easyto-wear, with more structure than
LILLY LOVE STORY
its main Oz competitor but with the distinct Australian vibe. Evie Young is the slightly posher sister brand.
The Bridal Collective (that’s Enzoani etc in old money) was full of delicious sparkle and lace and I thought I discovered a new collection! It was only when I put my glasses on and got close up that I realised it was Enzoani – if you don’t pay attention for a few months, lines get rebranded.
They didn’t have the whole collection at Harrogate, but what they they did have was exactly what you expect from them.
Glad to see Sanyukta Shrestha there, too. Her new collection is created without any animal products and are handmade in Nepal. She uses fabrics made from 100% bamboo, 100% organic cotton, luxe silky and floaty vegan eco-fibre, some even from the cellulose of wood pulp or recycled fibres. And they look fabulous too, not just for vegans.
Rowley Hesselballe – great to see this new venture at Harrogate, looking special. I first saw the collection at the press launch pre-Covid, and wonderful news… they’ve survived! One of the founders has since got married – congratulations. The women who run this label all have great fashion credentials and have been working in the industry for years. They came together and launched this label for the understated bride and bridesmaid who are fashionforward, don’t want to spend a fortune but do want something easy to wear and well cut. I like the collection a lot.
We took that short but sharp walk up the very steep hill – we were out of exhibition practice or was it that we needed lunch? (Wagamama’s vegan spare ribs delicious, but that was later.)
Into the vaults of The Majestic on our way to Justin Alexander (he’s engaged you know and designing a special dress.) However, we got distracted again when we bumped into Walter, ex David Fielden and now at Savin London. David is no longer open… he’s retired now the shop’s lease is up.
I’ve always been a fan of Savin London, and it was lovely to see
SAVIN LONDON
VESTAL MADI LANE SAVIN LONDON
Andre – I always enjoy listening to his vision and I love his drive. The dresses didn’t disappoint; they were the usual mix of high-fashion, romantic and commercial. I loved the touch of colour in the hand-painted dresses – if I’d been shooting a fashion story, I’d have struggled to choose because they were all wonderful, and more importantly made in the UK, which is something we need to celebrate.
We then battled our way through the busy space that was Justin Alexander, where there was, of course, something for everyone, and a few key trends: beading, of course, beautiful sleeves, and wonderful lace. All of the collections in the group had something that caught my eye.
Great to see Daisy Day veils, I know there’s going to be plenty walking down the aisle next year, and it might seem weird to call the veil a trend, but it is proving to be a key accessory.
Talking of accessories, Halo and Co, always please. What great fashion-forward bridal jeweller, with plenty of sparkle and wearable headbands. I think there will be bigger and blingier accessories in the coming year. And a big yes from me to the statement earrings.
Rainbow Club had a clutch of new styles. I have a daughter who recently got married wearing a pair and she couldn’t get over how comfy they were... and she normally wears trainers!
I loved how pretty they looked! I particularly liked the white satin strappy sandals, but in the past when on shoots I always found that when a model puts on a pair of Rainbow Clubs, they usually don’t want to take them off… enough said!
New to me with fantastically huge hats for both bride and bridesmaids plus eye-catching fluffy brightcoloured jackets and accessories was the Jayley Collection – brilliant for the bride who wants to be a bit of an individual, and plus perfect for dressing up the windows.
I liked the pink denim jacket at Lilly – such an easy way to add that editorial look to a more traditional dress.
Ivory & Co were busy with their amazing collection of traditional tiaras, hairbands and jewellery, plus a new more expensive fashion collection. I love the big hoops with a pearl in the middle – it was a lovely collection full of pieces you could wear post wedding.
MARK LESLEY ROWLEY HESSELBALLE