Barcelona Bridal Week

TRENDSTRENDS

In my mind I always categorise dresses by trends, as it enables me to remember any new directions with ease. At Barcelona Bridal Fashion Week, I chose the following categories/ groupings...

1. Bridgerton or puff sleeves high waists 2. City mini dresses, slim shapes and uncomplicated dresses and trousers 3. Classic just say what you see 4. Drama, big and bold 5. Lace, sheer, trimmed or with tassels 6. Sparkle for the bold bride 7. Tulle, ruffles and floaty.

JESUS PEIRO

BRIDGERTON

MARYLISE & REMBO

BARCELONA BRIDAL WEEK

Barcelona once again waved the flag for bridal, with an astonishing few days of designer catwalk shows, followed by the main buying event. Peta Hunt was there

Iwas over excited once I had my invitation from the brilliant Eva from XXL Communications (now there’s a genius PR, who has calmed egos from the front row to back stage for years!).

I filled out forms, and got into slight panic mode, as the last time I flew to Spain for their bridal Gala Night, I nearly didn’t get on the plane because of my lack of form reading ability, I don’t know about you but as soon as I see that form in front of me, I get dyslexic, if that’s possible? Well I am more of a visual person than a numbers one.

This time, all the right bits of paper are printed, and in my hand ready, and on my phone, too, I have the magic pass so nothing will stop me seeing the shows – I even arranged to go a night earlier so that I could be there in time and show-fresh for Jesus Piero. Let’s face it, I haven’t seen

MARCO&MARIA PRONOVIAS

international designer catwalk shows of the standard at Barcelona since the PP (that’s pre-pandemic) days.

The shows have always been tremendous. I remember the first time I went, I was completely blown away that they treated bridal as a proper industry, had great models, spent money on staging, and provided amazing images to the press. It was a revelation, and I became a bit of a Barcelona convert, telling anyone who’d listen and many who didn’t how great it was.

This time round, I was worried that it wouldn’t live up to my past memories, and fill me with information and inspiration. Although static and online shows filled a gap, there is something magical seeing gowns in motion, and witnessing the direction that designers are moving in. There’s always a general zeitgeist, as if the whole industry moves as one. Catwalks are key, too, for accessories, hair, make up and styling details, which can make or break a show; you have to create images to resonate with your online viewers... inspiration is everything.

You may well be relieved to hear that there was a lot less flesh on show – oh dear, I have turned into my aged Godmother, tutting at excess skin on display, although, skirts with thigh high splits, and two pieces were exciting to see, and had I been shooting for editorial I would have been scribbling down their details. I know they are brilliant for windows, social media, and for the more adventurous bride, but maybe not so commercial. It’s great that all you retailers have super alterations people that can sew up splits and fill in sheer panels.

There were more beautifully cut ‘modest’ dresses. I am not an admirer of the term, but there is something so romantic and bridal about a high neck, long sleeved dress.

Lace was everywhere, and I would

MARCHESA FOR PRONOVIAS

CLASSIC

ISABEL SANCHIS MODECA

JULIA KONTOGRUNI PRONOVIAS

NICOLE MILANO

DRAMA

like an applause emoji here for Marco & Maria, whose chiffon tulle with dazzling embroidery exhibited such skill, and were a highlight for me, along with the Gala Evening Event which starred Viktor&Rolf with one brilliant dress after another stalking down the catwalk. The mini veil with bow was with the key accessory, which we will be seeing a lot more of.

Sitting across the aisle from me was Justin from Justin Alexander. We chatted briefly about his forthcoming Italian wedding. When you create as many dresses as he does, his finance’s dress is hotly anticipated!

It was nice to see older models throughout all the shows, to celebrate the second-time-around-bride or the never-got-round-to-it before bride, and more curvy size models than ever before.

Rosa Clara showed modern classics, with the elegant understated crepe and lace gowns they do so well. And they threw a fabulous party... the food was amazing.

Yolan Cris, is the rock ‘n’ roll of bridal-land, and they demand attention. I loved their tea dress, and their mini, which I’m sure will be seen on many a red carpet.

Nicole Milan was a surprise. A very wearable collection, with plenty of variety, and I am assured by eavesdropping on several retailers’

MARCO&MARIA

HEAD

CYMBELINE HIGAR NOVIAS LORENA PANEA

LACE

conversations, that they fit well and are beautifully made! Talking of retailers, it was so nice bumping into Maria and Meb from Mirror Mirror, and Clare and her lovely daughter from The Wedding Club.

Poor Peter Langer couldn’t be there – he was a victim of Covid – but his collection was beautiful and we watched a video presentation.

I do think designers like Isabel Sanchez need to have a bigger platform in the UK – please somebody, buy her dresses they are really interesting. Marilyse and Rembo continue to make easy-to-wear dresses for the B2B who doesn’t want fuss, and Sophie et Voila dresses are just fun and make you smile.

Once the buying exhibition opened, I took a wander around the two halls, plus the exclusive VIP area showing Peter Lagner, Zuhaid, Tony Ward, Viktor&Rolf and Jenny Packham.

The whole show really was a celebration of how bridal has pulled itself together despite everything that recent years have brought. There was a huge selection of Ukrainian designers, and the plight of their country was acknowledged by other designers.

I wanted to see what the British contingent were showcasing, and I had to battle to get onto the busy stands of Alan Hannah and Halo & Co.

AGNIESZKA SWIATLY

SPARKLE

AGNIESZKSWIATLY ISABEL SANCHIS

ISABEL SANCHIS PRONOVIAS

ROSA CLARA

TULLE/FLOATY

Without sounding like a complete bridal luvvie, it was comforting to see Mathew from Jenny Packham, it was like a warm hug from the past.

The collection was very Jenny – well cut, sparkly and with some great dresses that I can see being worn by the Duchess of C soon, obviously not in white though.

Katya Katya was much in evidence, too, so all was well in my bridal world.

Then it was off for a quick change of dress for the grand finale show of the week. I wore black, for a change just in case you’re interested.

Pronovias had gathered together every gold balloon in Barcelona and created a wonderful ceiling, and a gold floor. They had influencers, celebrities, dancers, buyers. Zoe from hitched and I sat on a gold stools.

The show was a celebration of wonderful dresses and Pronovias’s standing in the industry. They covered just about every shape and style you could want and more.

The finale was led by a Spanish exsuper model, Esther Canadas, to great applause. We then separated as usual – the buyers to a dinner, and the press to a special party.

Flying off on the Saturday with the exhibition still going, I felt that the

CYMBELINE ISABEL SANCHIS

UNDERSTATED CITY

JESUS PEIRO

world has turned a corner, and that we are slowly getting back to normal.

People do care more now about waste, and where things are made, design is alive and kicking, weddings are going ahead and I was happier than ever to be part of this industry.

So well done to Barcelona Bridal Fashion Week, Eva and team at XXL communications, and, of course, thank you, Spain.

SIMONE MARULLI