PLUS POINTS

Peta Hunt picks her favourites of the latest collections designed for brides with curves, and delights in the choice available and the focus on construction

When Susi asked me to write a piece on curvy brides I didn’t quite know where to start – I was always slim until the dreaded Covid when all I did was make banana bread, sourdough bread and toast – so that on my everyday shopping trip I’d never even considered size. However, trying on a pair of leather trousers – and you may well ask why – and a T-shirt in a well-known high street shop has made me rethink my attitude somewhat.

Fashion sizes vary from one brand to another and even within a brand; there’s nothing more depressing than thinking you’ve trim down to a size 10 only to find a pair of XL jeans are too

ESSENSE HOUSE OF ST PATRICK

AESLING

small. Once you are trapped in a pair of tight trousers and break out into a hot sweat and the lining clings to you more and more, you know you need help, but the Spanish assistant who is in the dressing room definitely doesn’t want to help you even with gloves on. Even when I could stand up in my plastic leggings and look in the mirror it was a bit of an eye-opener. The chic, rock chic look I was going for was not apparent in the mirror – I looked like a sweaty dementor who had fallen into a laundry basket and come out wearing a child’s clothes. It

SOPHIA TOLLI

was no use wailing that they had mislabelled the garments. I was a size 12. But then we are not longer in 2010.

Having always worked with models who have been size 8 to 10, that to me was the norm. However, as a freelancer I’ve recently worked on a couple of shoots with plus size girls (I’m not even sure that plus size is a very nice expression!) The same rules apply whatever size; it’s really important that the construction of a dress is good, regardless of whether it’s a slip dress or ballgown. If it’s lacking in form and support, you can’t expect it to stay up and hold everything where it should be. At this point I usually bang on about houses being built on good foundations, but you all know what I mean.

The dresses I have selected here are all great examples of bridal style, romance, fashion sense and wearability, everything you need in a wedding dress. Traditionally, wedding experts have said that ballgown and A-line wedding dresses are the most flattering silhouettes for plus size brides. They also recommend an empire waistline, or the oh-sotrendy off-the-shoulder (a fabulous way to show off your neckline and a great pair of earrings). But whatever the style, it’s all about construction, construction, construction.

Thank goodness for the lace up back, too; on shoots that gives you plenty of flexibility when there is no one on hand to do alterations.

What has become obvious to me the more I looked into the availability of sizes was the sheer abundance of fabulously constructed dresses and separates to suit all shapes and sizes. Gone are the days where you placed a dress in front of the bride and said “imagine yourself in that, but in your size”!

Our relationships now are more important than ever; we return to our favourite designers because they never let you down. We welcome their assurance that their dresses will fit and experience tells us that’s true.

People expect so much added value now and our industry has to work harder than ever to get bridesto-be through the doors. And when the do come to us it’s for our insight, style, trustworthiness, taste and most importantly, knowledge.

I was massively impressed with Catherine Deane’s jumpsuit look with a top and trousers. I loved the Elysee strapless dress in crêpe, so elegant. I like as well the way that Ivory & Co dresses are constructed so well that they will accommodate sizes up to a 32.

And I think designers at Maggie Sottero have been way ahead of the game for a considerable time, showing all sizes on the catwalk. I am a big fan of the mermaid dress with its long-line internal corset, flirty and flattering, and see more relaxed shapes in lace with high slash necks, in their Sottero and Midgley range. I thought the V-neck dress with soft floaty sleeves from White Rose was incredibly chic.

But instead of me banging on all the time about construction I asked a few of the designers to let me know what made their dresses special.

Read on...

HOUSE OF MOOSHKI

REBECCA INGRAM

SONSIE

“The new buzzword in fashion is inclusivity. This important word has inspired Elbeth Gillis to create Curve, a five-piece capsule collection created with the plus-size bride in mind. The dresses within this collection reinforce Elbeth’s dedication to designing the perfect shapes for bridal gowns – simple structures with crisp, clean lines – and using romantic, lavish lace, designed to show off a woman’s curves. There are some sensational sleeves, ceaseless collars, beautiful bows and overskirts, which can be added to classic styles so that brides can put their own stamp on the dresses.” Élysée

“Seraphine x Édition is contemporary minimalism and glamour perfected. Sleek Mikado provides structure without forsaking comfort, creating a look that is both body-contouring and figure-flattering. A modern sculpted neckline and draped Mikado bodice with high back provides chic support while thoughtful seam placements leading down to the flared skirt ensure an effortlessly elegant look. Covered buttons trailing down to the hem of the gown add a sweet, detailed finishing touch.” Romantica

“The Silhouette collection is designed specifically with the curvy bride in mind, with higher backs up to the bra line, and tasteful plunges to accommodate the fuller figure. Wide supporting straps or shoulders also allow for a bra to give support and confidence. There is no compromise on modern design and finish. Silhouette sizing goes up to a 32 as standard, but larger sizes can be made on request. The gowns are well structured, featuring up to 16 bones and an elastic internal corset when the design requires.”

ELYSEE SAVIN LONDON

Says Andrea: “I designed Amaryllis as a celebratory collection, each look has a unique element that will allow our brides to truly express who they are. We have seen so much strength and determination in our brides over the last couple of years; it only seemed right to design a collection that will make them feel proud when walking down the aisle. It’s all about confidence and enabling them to really sparkle and shine bright whilst enjoying their special day surrounded by their loved ones. Amaryllis is a celebration of individuality.” “Although we don’t do a specific plus size collection , we do make our regular collection dresses in any size – I think the biggest last year was UK size 38,” says Sarah. “For bridal orders which boutiques take in sizes over UK 16, we can offer custom bust cup sizes in gowns as well as extra boning support within the inner corsetry, and can change button back gowns to ribbon up corset backs. Many of our new styles come with inner stretch linings for comfort and to support curvy silhouettes.“ “We offer an inclusive range of wedding dresses, with most gowns available in US sizes 0 through 28. Renowned for impeccable fit, this craftmanship is carried through in every size offering. As the dress size increases, so does the support and boning in the bodice to ensure that the gown is a perfect fit no matter a bride’s size or shape. And Maggie Sottero offers sister styles that feature additional support and coverage, for any bride who is interested. Several gowns also feature lace up corset options that mould the dress to the bride’s body, or hidden corsets to provide extra unseen support and structure.”

ANDREA HAWKES

“We go up to a UK size 30 in the curve range which is all about inclusivity and accessibility. As a brand, we want all of our brides to feel fabulous yet comfortable. That is why our separates and dresses are in such light and delicate silks. We have carefully recreated a selection of our existing collection cut and tailored to curve bodies. Same style, same price, same relaxed Catherine Deane bride!”

Madi Lane

“Madi Lane dresses are available from a US size 2-28. Most of our designs feature our signature fusion construction inside the bodice that gives the right amount of support and defines the waistline.”

When it comes down to it, whatever size the bride, she wants that dream dress and the perfect fit. Retailers are enablers, and can make that dream reality with the right collections.

CATHERINE DEAN

MADI LANE

KENNETH WINSTON

Contemporary, Opulent and breathtaking - The new AW 22 collection from Jennifer Wren Bridal offers your brides unique glamour on their big day. Please contact kerry@romanticaofdevon.co.uk for more information on becoming a stockist. www.romanticaofdevon.co.uk