Beginner's Guide to Dressmaking

Beginner’s guide to

DRESSMAKING Get started with expert help & step-by-step guides

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PDF DRESS PATTERN! WORTH £8.99

37 Skills Workshops

Helpful How-Tos

sic s a l c a w e S stulip dresside! how–to in

26 Easy Projects

Made With

Love

Machine Know-How

INSIDE: Measuring ✓ Fitting ✓ Tools ✓ Seams ✓ Pockets ✓ Hemming ✓ Zips

SLEEVES Make these simple-sew grown-on sleeves, then stitch two more sleeve styles on page 138.

PLEATS Pleats add detail and shape to a variety of makes. Learn how in page 110’s workshop.

POCKETS We just can’t resist a dress that has pockets!

Sew your own with the how-to on page 126.

HEMS The finishing touch!

Learn five techniques for hemming your projects on page 154.

BEGINNER’S GUIDE TO DRESSMAKING 11

contents

Begi ne ’ guid to

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DRESSMAKING 10

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126 essential skills

tools & notions

Workshops

15 Measuring yourself 24 Understanding your pattern 52 Cutting out fabric 54 Pattern alterations 86 Hand-stitching guide 94 Ironing and pressing 100 Seam types and finishes 104 Adding decorative piping 119 Inserting invisible zips 124 Adding buttons and buttonholes 126 Sewing in-seam pockets 138 Inserting sleeve types 154 Hemming your projects 160 Sewing glossary

6 Sewing machine guide 8 Machine tips and tricks 9 Cleaning your machine 26 Fabric markers 29 Washing symbols 30 Fabric types and uses 42 Choosing machine threads 64 Adding interfacings 72 Scissors and shears 74 Rotary cutters and pinking shears 77 Pattern weights 88 Machine needle types 105 Using seam rippers 114 Zip types and uses

32 Working with jersey fabrics 38 Adding decorative eyelets 44 Sewing with delicate fabrics 66 Matching up prints 96 Adding decorative pintucks 110 Sewing neat pleats 132 Working with lace fabrics 150 Adding neat collars

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48 Patterns & projects 10 Pattern: The Adele Dress 16 Classic stripe top 12 Cosy jersey poncho 35 Stripe jersey skirt 36 Cute bow tee 37 Colour-block maxi dress 41 Eyelet detail T-shirt 47 Pom pom infinity scarf 48 Layered tulle skirt 56 Cross-back summer top 60 Bomber jacket pattern hack 70 Statement circle skirt 78 Multi-way wrap dress 82 Kimono-inspired jacket

90 Belted tunic dress 99 Pintuck panel T-shirt 106 Colour-block shift dress 113 Pleated jersey skirt 117 Exposed-zip skirt 120 Zip detail trench coat 128 Boho pleated maxi skirt 135 Lace cut-out top 136 Lace applique sweatshirt 142 Statement sleeve top 147 Chic trouser pattern hack 156 Patternless circle cape

6

know your

sewing machine Familiarise yourself with the basic functions of your sewing machine with this handy at-a-glance guide.

THREAD FEED Your spool of thread sits at the top of the machine. The thread goes through a series of channels and loops before it reaches the needle (your manual will detail exactly how to thread your machine). There will also be a numbered dial that can be raised or lowered to adjust the thread tension as your fabric requires.

NEEDLE Most machines come with a needle already in place (and a replacement), but your manual will show you how to swap it for a different one.

When sewing speciality fabrics (for example, a heavy denim, or a slippery lace) you should change to a different needle size to ensure the best results – ask for advice when buying fabric.

PRESSER FOOT This metal attachment sits beneath your needle and holds your fabric in place. A lever moves it up to position the fabric and back down when sewing. The basic presser foot is the one you’ll use most, though there are lots of speciality feet to use for everything from quilting to zips.

BOBBIN This small plastic or metal spool sits in a special unit underneath the sewing area, below the foot and needle. Check your machine’s manual to find out how to load your bobbin. Once it has been loaded, the bobbin thread and the top thread feeds meet to form each stitch. The bobbin case is either drop-in or front-loading.

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FEED DOGS Feed dogs are teeth underneath the presser foot that guide the fabric through. Some machines allow you to drop the feed dogs, which is needed for freehand embroidery.

MACHINE FEET

HAND WHEEL Use the hand wheel to move the needle up and down manually.

This is essential for controlling the stitching line in tight spots and corners. To avoid your thread getting caught or tangled, be sure to always turn the wheel towards you. When winding bobbins, you may need to disengage the needle action by pulling out the hand wheel (consult your manual for how to do this on your machine).

With these five feet in your collection you can tackle most sewing projects.

1 Standard 2 Zip 3 inch 4 Free-motion 5 Walking/quilting

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MACHINE TYPES There’s a machine option for every skill level, from beginner to seasoned pro.

ELECTRONIC

BACKSTITCHING Most machines have a button or switch that enables you to sew in the reverse direction. It’s the best way to start and finish your line of stitching – just stitch forwards and backwards for a few stitches to secure your thread.

As you’d expect, electronic machines are powered by an electric motor that moves the needle and bobbin (and powers a light).

Electronic machines are ideal for beginner sewists – they can be packed with features, but are generally easy to use.

COMPUTERISED Computerised machines are suited to more experienced seamstresses or professionals – they have lots of clever stitch functions and a computerised screen, and some give you the option to input your own designs.

OVERLOCKERS

STITCH SELECTOR

Overlockers finish seams by overstitching the edge and trimming away excess fabric in one go. These are a great investment, but a machine zigzag (or even pinking shears!) will also do the job just fine for beginners.

The method used to change the type of stitch varies between machines, but the principle is the same. For most projects, you’ll just need the basic straight stitch and zigzag stitch.

STITCH LENGTH This allows you to change the stitch length. For standard seams, aim for a setting of 2 or 2.5. A longer stitch length is useful for quick tacking lines.

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know your

pattern markings Pattern instructions and markings are the sewing equivalent of a recipe, there to help you through the making process. Our pattern markings guide covers all the need-to-know lines, marks and symbols.

W

ith so many markings to follow, sewing patterns can seem a little daunting at first, but these marks and symbols are there to help you achieve a great fit and finish on your me-made garments. Not all markings will be found on every pattern, as some are only used for specific details, like pleats and tucks. Markings such as cutting lines, grain lines and fold lines are used for positioning and cutting out the pattern on your fabric, while others, like the lengthen and shorten lines, are for adjusting the pattern pieces. Some markings, including notches and darts, need to be transferred onto your fabric to help you construct your garment. Here we take you through the key markings to get you started.

24 BEGINNER’S GUIDE TO DRESSMAKING

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WORKSHOP

jersey fabrics Get to grips with sewing stretch fabrics with three stylish ways to transform a tee: a bow top, stripe skirt and colour-block maxi.

Designer: JENNIE JONES

WORKSHOP

PATTERN MATCHING Be a pro at working with prints with this pattern-matching how-to, and make a swishy skirt in an eye-catching design.

Designers: REBECCA REID AND ROSEE WOODLAND

WORKSHOP

pintucks These neat folds are a simple way to add pretty detailing to all kinds of projects.

Give it a go with a simple pintuck tee.

Designer: JENNIFER MILLS

WORKSHOP

PLEATS There’s more than one way to sew a pleat! Practice three techniques and make this classic pleated jersey skirt.

Designers: REBECCA REID AND AMANDA WYATT

Begi ne ’ guid to

DRESSMAKING Get started with expert help & step-by-step guides

Start dressmaking today with more than 60 step-by-step tutorials and easy projects!