GARDENING PLANNER
March to June 2020
Timely advice and simple projects for your best-ever results
March
March March welcomes in a rush of flowers, from daffodils and primroses carpeting the ground to sumptuous magnolias on bare branches. Some days seem like the depths of winter, others are full of spring warmth and new growth. It’s a month of preparation – hardy veg can be sown outdoors once the soil warms up, but most sowing has to be done indoors. You can sort out your lawn, plant early potatoes and tidy up your flower borders, too.
KEY TASKS
Prune
Damaged branches on trees and shrubs Dogwoods Elderberry Hardy fuchsias Lavender Mahonia
Large gobletshaped blooms stand upright on the bare branches of Magnolia x soulangeana
Sow Indoors:
Basil, beetroot, celeriac, cucumbers, lettuces, parsley
Outdoors: Broad beans, Brussels sprouts, leeks, parsnips, peas, turnips
Plant
Asparagus Jerusalem artichokes
Harvest
Cauliflowers Cabbages Forced rhubarb
New roses
Sprouting broccoli
Strawberries
Swiss chard
Summer bulbs Trees, shrubs and climbers
Hardy annuals Sweet peas
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Pulmonarias These shade-loving perennials produce bee-friendly flowers throughout spring. Flowers Mar-May H x S 35cm x 30cm
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Forsythia
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Chocolate vine
4 star plants for March
With bright blooms on bare stems, this popular shrub really packs a punch. Flowers Feb-Apr H x S 3m x 3m
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Primroses These charming plants are ideal for the front of a shady border or under trees. Flowers Mar-May H x S 20cm x 35cm
Akebia quinata is a semi-evergreen climber with dark-red, scented flowers. Flowers Mar-May H x S 10m x 2m
March
What to do this month Spring is in the air and there’s a wide range of interesting projects to be getting on with this March
Around the garden Tackle early weeds
Spring weed growth can be easily overlooked, but if you let weeds get established now, your borders will soon be swamped. Many weeds are easier to remove now too, when they’re still small and not yet deeply rooted in. In borders, a hand fork is usually the easiest way to lift out small annual weeds between your plants. With perennial weeds such as ground elder or bindweed, you’ll need to dig more deeply to remove every bit of root.
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Lay a new lawn
QUICK & EASY
Use fleece to protect young plants in the greenhouse from strong sun on bright days. Prune dogwood Cornus that are grown for their vibrant winter stems should be pruned every March to stimulate new growth for next winter’s display. Either cut all the stems to the ground to keep your shrub compact or remove a few stems for a taller shrub that produces several new stems each year. Apply a general fertiliser afterwards to boost growth.
A fast way to create a new lawn or replace an old one is by laying turf. Warm, showery spring weather helps turf establish quickly, so your new lawn can be used and enjoyed this summer. After removing the old lawn, along with all deeprooted weeds, level the soil. Take care to even out any bumps or dips to avoid mowing problems later. Firm, then rake the surface to a fine, crumbly tilth. Roll out the new turf, one piece at a time, and lay in place. Stagger the joins between them and ensure the edges are butted up closely. Then firm them down with the back of a rake and water thoroughly. The lawn should be ready to walk on in two to three weeks. Water it regularly for the first year, especially in hot spells.
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Clear dead leaves from ponds Remove the remains of old leaves and stems of aquatic and marginal plants from your pond to prevent them rotting in the water – decomposing plant material releases nutrients, which can encourage the growth of algae. Also scoop out any other leaves and debris that have fallen into the water over winter. If you’ve had netting over your pond to catch autumn leaves, remove it now.
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Growing from seed is cheaper, but you shouldn’t sow until next month as the soil temperature is still too low for germination. You’ll then have to wait several months for it to be ready to walk on.
Mow existing lawns By March the weather should have warmed up enough to dry out your lawn ready for cutting. Take your time over this first cut of the year, doing it in two stages. First, mow with the blades on the highest setting and remove the clippings. Then repeat exactly the same process a few days later. Over the next few cuts, gradually lower the blades. Always remove the clippings at this time of year, even if you usually leave them behind as a mulch. Don’t apply lawn feed until next month.
March
In your flower patch Deadhead and prune hydrangeas
Remove all the faded flowerheads on mophead hydrangeas, cutting just above the first pair of buds below each bloom. Old blooms are usually left in place over winter for their architectural beauty and to protect the buds lower down from frost. Also cut out any dense, weak or frost-damaged branches to open up the centre of the shrub, cutting above a pair of buds each time. Both shoots from each pair of buds will potentially carry flowers this summer, so thin out any crowded stems to make room for lots of wonderfully blowsy blooms.
Lift and divide perennials As herbaceous perennials come into growth, lift and divide the clumps to revitalise them and improve flowering. It will also give you new plants for free. Dig up the whole plant with as much of the rootball as possible. Pull the clump apart into several smaller pieces or slice it into sections with a spade. Then replant the young, vigorous parts (usually from the edge of the clump) in prime positions around the garden.
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Water spring pots
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Spring-flowering plants and bulbs make colourful temporary displays in pots, where they can be crammed in for greatest impact. But even in a damp spring, pots need watering, as the plants have a reduced root-run and more competition for water from their near neighbours. The compost can also dry out quickly, and if the pot is in a sheltered spot it may get little direct rain. So water regularly to keep container displays at their best.
LOOK OUT FOR
QUICK & EASY
Take basal cuttings from delphiniums, lupins and achilleas. Cut off a shoot at the base, close to the crown, that is about 8cm long and has several leaves. Plant it in a pot of compost, and keep it warm and damp until well rooted. Plant out spring bedding
Tie in climbers
Perk up borders and patio pots with spring bedding – primroses and polyanthus, pansies and violas, bellis daisies, wallflowers and more – in matching or contrasting colour schemes. Prepare the plants by standing them in water for an hour, to ensure the rootball is completely damp. Dig individual planting holes and fork in some garden compost. Plant closely in generous groups, adding pot-grown bulbs for extra interest.
Most climbers, including roses, will produce more flowers if their shoots are trained in a horizontal position. This is due to hormones flowing into the side buds. Now is the ideal time to train them, so they grow this way through spring and summer. Ensure your trellis or horizontal support wires are sturdy, then coax the upright stems down and secure in place with string or coated wire. Replace any ties from last year that are worn, missing or cutting into the stems.
slugs and snails as damage is often at its worst in early spring. Put out slug traps or apply nematodes once the soil has warmed to 5°C.
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March
Growing your own Check your soil temperature
Different seeds germinate at different temperatures, so don’t waste your seeds by sowing when the soil is too cold. An easy way to check that your soil is generally warming up is to test it with the back of your hand. But before making early sowings, it’s worth getting a more accurate reading with a metal-tipped soil thermometer. Take the temperature at the sowing depth at various times of day. Beetroot and cabbages can be sown at 7°C or above, carrots do better at 10°C, and parsnips at 15°C.
Pot on tomatoes Tomato seedlings grow rapidly and are hungry feeders, so pot them on every few weeks, as soon as roots are visible through the drainage hole, to keep them growing strongly. Handle them with care when easing them out of their pots to avoid damaging the fragile stem and roots. Plant into a slightly larger pot each time, and a few centimetres deeper. This encourages new roots to form on the newly buried section of stem. Pinch off the seed leaves (right), below the first true leaves, so they don’t rot in the damp compost.
LOOK OUT FOR
bumblebees – if you find one lying on the ground, move it onto a flower so it can replenish its energy. These bees are valuable early pollinators. 10
Get early potatoes in the ground Early potatoes can be planted from mid-March in southern parts of the UK and two weeks later further north. Plant the tubers into a 10-15cm deep trench, spacing them 30cm apart. Leave 60cm between rows. Backfill the trench, firm down and water regularly. Once the foliage starts to show, rake soil up over the plants. This not only provides frost protection, but also encourages more tubers to form. You’ll be harvesting your first new potatoes by June.
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Move herbs outdoors Herbs growing on kitchen windowsills for winter pickings can be moved outside once the weather warms up. Pots of chives, oregano, rosemary, sage, thyme and other hardy herbs enjoy a sheltered location in full sun. Transplant pot-bound plants into slightly bigger containers or arrange several in a large pot of free-draining compost for an attractive, edible display. Water well and stand the herbs in a sunny spot near the kitchen door for easy pickings.
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Onions are easy to grow from small bulbs known as sets. Plant these 10-15cm apart in rows. Closer spacing allows you to plant more, but the resulting onions will be smaller, while wider spacing lets them grow larger, but you’ll fit fewer into the space. Leave room between the rows to hoe, as this is the easiest way to keep weeds at bay. When planting, make sure the tip of the set is just below the surface. Don’t leave them poking out, as birds will pull them from the ground.
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Plant onion sets
March
March
JOB OF THE MONTH
Sow beetroot outdoors WILDLIFE WATCH
Dig a pond to attract wildlife.
AND DON’T FORGET TO... Pot up dahlia tubers in compost to start them into growth – keep frost free Check for aphids on new shoots Pot up canna rhizomes in large pots in the greenhouse Plant strawberry runners in a prepared bed and mulch with well-rotted compost
Beetroot is easy and quick to grow, and can be sown outdoors as soon as the ground begins to warm up. Be sure to sow when the weather is favourable – if the forecast predicts a chilly spell, then delay sowing until temperatures rise. Seeds sown into damp, chilly ground are likely to rot, and those sown
a week or two later in milder weather will always catch up. For regular harvests of young, tender roots, sow small batches every few weeks. There are lots of varieties to try, including yellow and white roots, as well as traditional ruby-red. Choose bolt-resistant varieties for early sowings.
Plant out forced bulbs that flowered over Christmas – pop them into borders for flowers next spring Deadhead faded daffodils Feed brassicas with nitrogen-rich fertiliser Tidy up alpines, removing any debris or dead foliage, and add new plants Protect early fruit blossom if frost is forecast Scatter fertiliser over flowerbeds and around roses, shrubs and hedges
Dig out a shallow drill with the edge of a hoe or the tip of a trowel. Don’t make the drill too long – it’s better to sow small batches regularly instead. Water the base of the drill.
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Space the large seeds 8cm apart along the drill, then use a rake or trowel to carefully draw the soil back over the seeds.
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Label the row, and water regularly. If a cold snap is forecast, temporarily cover the row with fleece or a cloche for protection. Thin out the seedlings to about 10cm apart.
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You can also start planting out young beetroot plants that were sown indoors in modules. Harden them off first, then plant about 10cm apart.
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Take down insulation from greenhouse glazing to let in more light Check that tree ties haven’t become too tight Lay mulch around plants in borders
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April
April In April we have the anticipation of good things to come, as fresh growth is appearing everywhere. Although it is spring, we’re still close enough to winter for every hour of sunshine to be savoured and not taken for granted. It’s the month when most changes, most happens and there’s the most to do. While it may be a busy month, the days are stretching out and the soil is warming up. It’s a great time to plant up a pond and start sowing in earnest on the veg plot – and all the bulbs in full bloom are sure to fill you with spring cheer.
KEY TASKS
Prune
Fig trees Hardy evergreens Hydrangea paniculata Ornamental quince (Chaenomeles) – after flowering
These elegant ‘Ballerina’ tulips rise up like fiery beacons in the April border 14
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Penstemons Untidy ferns
Sow Indoors:
Courgettes, cucumbers, French beans, pumpkins, runner beans, sweetcorn
Outdoors:
Plant
Potatoes – second early and maincrop varieties Summer-flowering bulbs Sweet pea seedlings
Harvest
Asparagus Beetroot
Radishes Rhubarb Salad leaves
Brussels sprouts, leeks, lettuces, spinach
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Perennial wallflowers Erysimum such as ‘Apricot Delight’ bloom for months. Flowers Apr-Oct H x S 50cm x 50cm
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Grape hyacinths
4 star plants for April
Bring a touch of romance to partial shade with Lamprocapnos. Flowers Apr-Jun H x S 60cm x 45cm
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Osmanthus delavayi Enjoy the fragrant blooms of this compact evergreen shrub. Flowers Apr-May H x S 3.5m x 3.5m
A reliable, troublefree bulb, Muscari will spread to form rich blue carpets. Flowers Apr-May H x S 20cm x 8cm
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April
What to do this month Harden off plants
Plant up a pond
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The risk of frost will soon be over in most parts of the UK, so you’ll be able to start planting tender plants outside. But they’ll suffer a setback if you put them straight out. Instead, acclimatise them gradually by putting them in a warm, sheltered spot during the day, then covering at night. This will toughen them up to cope with the cooler temperatures, breezes and stronger sunlight outdoors.
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QUICK & EASY
Order nematodes to control specific pests, including vine weevils and slugs. Check that temperatures are warm enough before applying.
Check for pests in the greenhouse Various pests will overwinter in greenhouses, including red spider mites, scale insects (pictured) and aphids. As temperatures rise they start to feed and multiply. To stop infestations building up, check plants regularly and remove pests or infested shoots. Alternatively, apply biocontrols or use sprays made from soaps or plant extracts.
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Pot up plugs for summer displays You can save money on summer bedding by buying young plug plants from mail-order suppliers and garden centres now. These mini plants go on sale at this time of year and are a fraction of the price that the fully grown bedding plants will be in a few weeks’ time. They’re also very easy to grow – you just need a little space in your greenhouse to grow them on. So it’s well worth giving it a go this month. Pot up the plug plants straight away into small pots and water well. Stand them in a greenhouse, and the plants should soon settle in and start growing strongly. They should be ready for planting into borders, pots and hanging baskets by the end of May.
Wildlife will come to a pond whether you plant it with native or non-native plants. Whichever you choose, use a varied mix of marginal plants at the edges and aquatics further into the pond. Create an unplanted beach area so that birds and mammals have easy access to the water. Regularly scoop out algae and debris to keep the water clear. Plant perennials like this yellow flag iris into mesh containers, then position them carefully in the water. Stand the containers on bricks, if necessary, so they’re at the right depth. Over time, gradually lower plants with floating leaves to the bottom as the stems grow. Provide a wide range of plants for different species of wildlife. Dragonflies pupate on the upright stems of marginal plants. Frogs and newts like the shade of plants with floating leaves – ideally these should cover two-thirds of the surface.
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Around the garden
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Spring is well under way, so get outside and enjoy some of our top April jobs
Protect young plants indoors Young plants, such as seedlings or recently potted-up plug plants, aren’t yet strong enough to tolerate very bright sunshine. So even though it’s still early in the year, it’s worth putting up some shade netting, pulling down blinds or simply rigging up a cardboard screen to shield vulnerable young plants in trays and pots. Sun can dry out the compost quickly too, so check moisture levels daily. Gardening Planner • gardenersworld.com
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April
In your flower patch
JOB OF THE MONTH
Prick out seedlings
Give plants a boost
If any of your shrubs and perennials flowered poorly last year, perk them up with a dose of granular or liquid fertiliser. Granular feeds cost less and can be sprinkled around the base of the plant and watered in. Always follow the dosage instructions on the packet, as overuse of fertiliser may damage plants. Give roses a specific rose feed, while lime-hating plants such as camellias and azaleas need an ericaceous feed.
Grow dahlias from tubers Pick off lily beetles Be on the alert for bright-red lily beetles on fritillaries and Solomon’s seal, both of which provide an early source of food for the overwintered adult beetles. These lay eggs that will quickly hatch into larvae, which in turn will become adult beetles that will lay eggs on your summer lilies. The vibrant-red adults are easy to spot, but the small eggs can easily be missed. They are russet brown in colour and laid in short chains. Also look out for black, squidgy masses on the leaves, under which the larvae hide. Remove the adults, eggs and larvae by hand.
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Deadhead daffodils once the flowers fade, so plants put all their energy back into the bulb.
Plant out sweet peas Young sweet peas can be planted outdoors in their flowering positions now. Harden them off for a few days first. Choose a sunny spot at the base of a trellis or wigwam and dig well-rotted manure or garden compost into the soil. If you’ve grown the seedlings singly, transfer directly into the planting hole. If lots of seedlings are growing in the same pot, carefully split into groups of two or three and plant together. Water in well and tie the stems to the support.
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LOOK OUT FOR
aphids as they can multiply very quickly. They feed on plant sap, distorting or stunting growth. Check shoot tips and all over leaves regularly. Squish them by hand, spray with soapy water or simply pinch out infested shoots.
Seedlings in trays need to be pricked out once they have their first true leaves. Replant them singly into a new tray, spaced further apart. This gives them more room to grow healthily, as well as fresh compost full of nutrients. They can also be positioned deeper in the new compost, to create sturdier plants.
Plant 12 seedlings in a half-sized seed tray. Place it in a warm, well-lit spot and keep the compost damp. As the seedlings grow, pinch out the tips to make them bushier, for more flowers. Pot on into individual modules after a few weeks, and the plants will be ready to use in borders and container displays by early summer.
In midsummer, garden centres are full of vibrant dahlias for instant colour. But you can save pounds i f you buy tubers now and plant them straight into your borders. Add garden compost to the hole and keep watering, and they’ll send up shoots in a few weeks. Protect young growth from slugs and you’ll have glorious blooms right through to autumn.
TOP TIP Gently lift one seedling at a time, using a dibber to lever out as many of the roots as possible. Always hold seedlings by a leaf, not the stem, as this is easily crushed, which would kill the seedling.
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Fill a half-sized seed tray with multi-purpose compost, then level and gently firm the surface. Set the two seed trays side by side, dib a deep hole for the first seedling and lift it across.
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Carefully lower the seedling into its new hole, almost to the base of the leaves. Firm it in gently. Repeat until you have filled the tray with seedlings.
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Thoroughly wet the compost with tepid water from a watering can with a fine rose. Label the tray with the plant name, then place in a greenhouse or on a bright windowsill to grow on.
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Prune ornamental quince after flowering – cut back sideshoots to two buds or leaves.
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April
Growing your own Keep frost off early blossom
Drape fleece over flowering fruit trees, such as plums and apples, in the early evening if frost is forecast. Use wire ties or clothes pegs to hold it in place, attaching them to sturdy stems that won’t be crushed. Small or trained trees, such as fans, cordons and espaliers, can usually be covered completely, but taller trees are more tricky to protect. You may only be able to wrap the lower branches. If any soft fruit bushes, such as currants and gooseberries, come into flower this month, protect these from frost too. You can remove the fleece the following morning, once the temperature has risen above freezing. This gives flying insects access to the flowers to pollinate them. Frost can be deadly to delicate blossom, damaging the anthers and stamens, meaning that pollination can’t take place. The flowers may then fall and won’t set fruit.
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Position supports for herbaceous perennials to grow into so they won’t flop
Mulch fruit bushes Spread mulch around fruit trees and bushes. It will deter weeds from germinating, hold moisture in the soil and improve soil structure. First remove any weeds, then soak the soil with plenty of water. A thick layer of well-rotted manure is ideal. Alternatively, sprinkle general fertiliser over the soil then mulch with less nutritious garden compost or leafmould.
Check fruit cages and netting for holes that could allow pests in Give the lawn a boost with a high-nitrogen spring feed
QUICK & EASY
Sow courgettes
Prune out any frost-damaged shoots from your flowering shrubs.
Use sheets of newspaper to protect seedlings in greenhouses from scorching on sunny days
Courgettes dislike root disturbance, so sow just one seed per pot to avoid having to thin out the seedlings later. Seeds should germinate in a week or so.
Keep potting on seedlings to prevent a check in their growth
Give your containerised fruit trees a boost – scrape away and discard the top layer of compost, then replace this with fresh compost mixed with fertiliser. Water in well.
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Plant out autumn-sown hardy annuals
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Lift and divide perennials – use the new plants to fill gaps in borders or share them with friends
Sow seeds singly into 9cm pots, pushing them 2cm deep. Position them edge side down – if sown flat they are more likely to rot. After watering, place them in a heated propagator at 18°-25°C until shoots appear. Then move them into the more open environment of a warm greenhouse, until ready to plant out in early summer.
TOP TIP
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AND DON’T FORGET TO...
Feed shrubs and hedges with bonemeal
Harvest rhubarb
Protect your brassicas Place collars around the stems of newly planted brassicas to keep cabbage root fly at bay. This prevents the female flies laying their eggs close to the base of young plants. Use purpose-made collars or make your own out of cardboard or thick weed-suppressing membrane. Make the disc-shaped collars at least 8cm in diameter.
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There’s a knack to picking rhubarb without leaving stubs of snapped stems. Pick from the outside of the clump, holding the stem low down, and twist it firmly away from the plant. You can continue to pick through the season but stems are most tender in spring. Leave some stems to give the plant energy, but remove the toughest old stems to keep new growth coming. Mulch around the plant with well-rotted manure to encourage leaf growth. Cut off emerging flower stems and apply a nitrogen-rich liquid feed to discourage any more.
Tie new shoots of climbers, such as honeysuckle and clematis, to their supports Plant potatoes in bags on the patio if you run out of space on the veg plot Water pots regularly as they can dry out quickly Mow the lawn every two weeks Keep greenhouses well ventilated on mild days
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May
May In May, it can feel like winter one day, then midsummer the next. But mostly the days are full of light and at least some warm sunshine. There is blossom everywhere, and a growing fullness in hedges and borders. Lawns are lush and green as spring shifts into summer, and weeds are growing faster than anything else. At times it can feel like there’s too much to do, but don’t worry. Over the following pages we’ll help you focus on the priorities. These include getting climbers and plants under control, and keeping on top of the veg patch as everything starts to accelerate.
KEY TASKS
Prune
Early springflowering shrubs – such as weigela, after flowering Hardy fuchsias
Alliums such as ‘Purple Sensation’ add long-lasting sculptural interest, with showy flowers followed by striking seedheads 24
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Trained pyracanthas
Sow
Outdoors: Annuals, such as California poppies; cauliflowers, chard and spinach, French and runner beans, sprouting broccoli, peas, salad leaves, sweetcorn
Indoors:
Plant
Dahlia tubers Hanging baskets indoors Hardened-off veg seedlings of cabbages and leeks
Harvest
Asparagus Beetroot
Broad beans Lettuces Rhubarb Spring onions
Summer bedding, after the last frost
courgettes, marrows, pumpkins Gardening Planner • gardenersworld.com
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May planner Use this page to get organised for the coming gardening month, so you can make the most of your time F 1 S 2 S 3
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Aquilegias Varieties such as ‘Chocolate Soldier’ offer dainty flowers in unusual colours. Flowers May-Jun H x S 30cm x 25cm
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Choisya
4 star plants for May
The arching stems of Polygonatum are hung with white bell-like flowers. Flowers May-Jun H x S 1.5m x 30cm
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Lily of the valley Convallaria produces small but highly scented flowers in a shady spot. Flowers May H x S 25cm x 30cm
‘Aztec Pearl’ is a compact form of this popular evergreen shrub. Flowers Apr-May H x S 2.5m x 2.5m
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May
What to do this month Discover how to keep your garden looking its best with our selection of key tasks for May
Around the garden Feed your lawn
Tie in young climbers
There’s still time to give your lawn a quick boost with a highnitrogen lawn feed. Most granular fertilisers contain a mix of other essential nutrients too, for general health and hardiness. Follow the packet instructions and measure the dose carefully. Scatter the fertiliser evenly over the lawn on a day when rain is forecast. Water well if it doesn’t rain much. You should see the difference in just a couple of days.
Some climbers, such as clematis, may need some initial help to cling to their supports. New stems sprawl out looking for something to climb, and if you tie these to the support you can direct them where you want them to go. Once the basic framework of stems is in place, the plant should keep going on its own. Tie soft string to the wires or frame at a point where the stem can be easily drawn across to it. Young stems, especially those of clematis, can be fragile, so be gentle. Tie in the stem with a large loop, which will give it plenty of room to thicken up as it grows.
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perennial weeds – these long-lived plants form sturdy roots, so weed them out before they get established. 28
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Pinch out the tips of seedlings in the greenhouse Seedlings should be growing strongly by now and will keep getting taller if you let them, with the top buds producing the dominant growth. This can lead to top-heavy plants on weak main stems. So pinch out the tip above a set of leaves lower down the stem. The more you remove, the sturdier the plant will become. New sideshoots will sprout from the remaining leaf nodes, making the plant bushier and able to carry more flowers.
Formal hedges are best trimmed a couple of times in summer to keep them neat. Electric shears make light work of it, but hand shears do a good job, too. Before you start, always check for birds’ nests and delay trimming for a few more weeks if you find any that are in use. Put a groundsheet down to catch the clippings, then trim from the bottom upwards. Use a measure to keep the top level.
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May
In your flower patch Plant up a summer pot
Place the pot in its final location before filling it with compost. Lightly firm this down, then put the supports in place. Water all your plants thoroughly.
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A large pot on the patio can make a bold focal point. Big containers retain moisture and nutrients for longer, and have greater impact than several smaller pots. When choosing plants, go for high drama – thrillers, fillers and spillers, the latter to cascade over the edges. For height, add a wigwam of canes and some flowering climbers.
Plant a couple of climbers, such as these clematis, at the base of the supports. Carefully tie in the stems with soft twine to encourage them to start climbing.
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Good drainage is vital, so don’t
block the hole in the base. Use a 50:50 mix of multi-purpose compost and John Innes No.2. Apply dilute liquid tomato feed every couple of weeks after the first month, to encourage flowering. Deadhead regularly and rotate the pot occasionally for even growth.
Arrange the rest of your plants in the pot, with larger ones in the centre and trailers around the edges. Plant them close together so they’ll fill the whole pot. Water in well.
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Top plants for containers Begonias, petunias, pelargoniums, dahlias and fuchsias, climbers such as clematis, and spillers such as trailing campanulas or lobelias.
Do the Chelsea chop Extend the flower display in borders with an easy pruning technique known as the ‘Chelsea chop’. This involves cutting back the stems of certain perennials, so flowering is delayed for a few weeks. It works well on many border favourites, including heleniums, rudbeckias and sedums. If you only have a single clump of a particular plant, then cut back half of its stems by half their height. Those left uncut will bloom first, followed by those you cut back, so overall flowering lasts longer. If you have several identical plants, you can cut back a whole clump, so it flowers after the others have finished.
Look after lupins
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These border favourites add height and colour, with flower spikes in a range of vibrant two-tone hues. Once the flower spikes are spent, remove them at the base to encourage more to form. Check plants regularly for grey lupin aphids clustering on the stems. Rub them off by hand, wash off with a hose, or cut off infested spikes.
QUICK & EASY
Water permanent pot displays regularly – in warm weather they’ll need daily watering.
Keep deadheading Removing spent flowers is a simple yet satisfying job that keeps displays looking their best. Faded petals often discolour or turn brown, marring the overall look. Dead petals also attract mould, especially in damp weather. It’s a great way to boost or extend the display too, as it encourages plants to make more blooms rather than seedheads. If you remove spent flowers, most herbaceous plants, including these primulas and pansies, will keep on making new flowers in an attempt to produce the seeds that will give rise to their next generation.
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Turn old plastic bottles into mini cloches to protect your young plants. Simply cut off the bottom of the bottles, then place over individual plants. Unscrew the cap to improve ventilation. In the warm, protected atmosphere, the plants will grow more quickly. They’ll also be less accessible to snails, especially if you use narrow-necked bottles.
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Now is the time to take softwood cuttings from non-flowering shoots of shrubs such as this fuchsia. These will root quickly and easily, but need careful tending, as they’re prone to rotting. After planting, place in a propagator to root, but remove the lid for an hour most days to air it out and deter fungal rot. Pick off any leaves that start to wither.
The cuttings should root within a few weeks. Test this when you see new growth by gently pulling the cutting – it should resist. Move the pot into a bright spot to grow on. Repot the new plants individually when you see roots through the drainage holes. Pinch out shoot tips to make plants bushier. They’ll be large enough to plant into borders next year.
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WILDLIFE WATCH Select strong, healthy, nonflowering shoots. Cut them off just above a joint, with three sets of leaves. Place in a plastic bag and spray with water to keep them damp.
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Trim the base of the shoot just below the lowest set of leaves. Remove all the leaves except the top set. Pinch out any buds at the tip.
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Fill a small pot with cuttings compost. Make a hole with a dibber near the edge and insert the cutting. Plant several per pot, spaced evenly around the edge.
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Firm in well, then soak with tepid water and place in a warm propagator with a lid. Alternatively, place on a windowsill out of direct sun and cover with a clear plastic bag.
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Check shrubs for birds’ nests before you start pruning to avoid disturbing them.
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May
Growing your own Mulch strawberries
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Now that strawberry plants are in flower, cover the surface of the soil around them with a thick layer of clean straw. This has several benefits. First, it provides a soft layer for the developing fruits to sit on, keeping them off the damp ground. It also prevents soil getting splashed onto the fruits during watering or rain. The layer of straw holds warmth in the upper layer of soil over night, which speeds up fruit ripening. It also holds moisture in the soil, so it is available to the plant roots, helping the fruits to swell.
Interplant between slower crops Sow quick-growing salad leaves, spring onions, radishes and beetroot into the gaps between slow-to-mature crops such as onions, leeks, parsnips, maincrop carrots and brassicas. Called intercropping, this is a great way to get maximum crops from a limited space. The idea is that fast-growing crops will be harvested before the slower crops expand to fill the space.
QUICK & EASY
Earth up potatoes, covering the shoots with soil as they appear, whether in the ground or in bags.
Train cordon tomatoes in the greenhouse Cordon (or vine) tomatoes are unruly sprawlers that must be trained into single-stemmed fruiting plants if you want to get the best crop. Sideshoots often appear between the leaf stalks and the main stem. Check for these weekly and pinch out while they’re still small. Don’t pinch out the growing tip at the top of the plant – leave it to climb up the support.
Remove blackfly from broad beans Keep watch for blackfly on the soft tips of your broad bean plants. This growth is easy for these aphids to feed on and a few individuals can turn into hundreds in no time at all. On small spring-sown plants and where there are only a few blackfly, they can easily be squashed by hand. On larger autumn-sown plants, pinch out the infested shoot tips.
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AND DON’T FORGET TO... Pot on aubergines, cucumbers and peppers Damp down the greenhouse regularly to increase humidity
First remove any weed seedlings, then make a shallow drill in the soil between the longer-term plants, taking care not to disturb their roots. Water along the base of the drill. Then sow the seeds thinly, according to the spacing on the packet, and cover with soil.
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Throw fleece over new plants if frost is forecast Sow seeds of herbs outdoors in prepared ground
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Water and feed fruit trees in containers Plant summer bulbs if you haven’t already Transplant greenhouse tomatoes into large pots
LOOK OUT FOR
Sawfly larvae on currants and gooseberries. These eat the leaves down to a skeleton. So stay vigilant and pick them off as soon as you spot any.
Remove weeds from ponds Water thirsty crops such as tomatoes regularly
Plant blueberry bushes There’s still time to plant blueberries for delicious harvests later this summer. These plants need acidic soil, rather than chalky or alkaline, so if you garden on the latter, grow them in pots of ericaceous compost. You will need two varieties to ensure pollination and fruit setting. Keep the plants well watered (preferably from your water butt), mulch with well-rotted manure, and feed every spring.
Put supports in place for summer perennials Remove any raspberry canes that are far from the rows Net developing soft fruit Pinch out green shoots from variegated shrubs
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June
June This month the evenings are long and everything is in full growth. The vegetable garden is progressing at speed, but certainly at the beginning of the month it’s still slow to provide much of a harvest. This is why crops such as early broad beans and peas, sown last autumn or at the very beginning of spring, are so welcome. Tender plants that we’ve been protecting for half the year can now be moved outside to grow freely. June is a busy month of sowing, planting and deadheading, as well as a time to enjoy the first early pickings and abundant flowers of early summer.
KEY TASKS
Prune
Clematis montana and C. armandii
Floribunda roses such as ‘Pomponella’ start to open their opulent clusters of fragrant blooms 36
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Sow
Beetroot Pak choi
Plant
Chicory Leek seedlings
Harvest Cherries
Gooseberries
Evergreen shrubs
Radishes
Outdoor tomatoes
Early potatoes
Gooseberries and currants
Salads
Summer bedding
Salads
Turnips
Tender veg
Grapevines Lilac Spring-flowering shrubs
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✺
✺ ❂✷
June planner ✺ ✹ ❂
Use this page to get organised for the coming gardening month, so you can make the most of your time
M 1 T 2 W 3
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S 6 S 7
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Hardy geraniums Varieties such as ‘Storm Chaser’ fill shady spots with flowers all summer. Flowers Jun-Aug H x S 30cm x 50cm
S 13 S 14 M 15 T 16 W 17
Notes
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Astrantias
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Clematis
4 star plants for June
Richly coloured ‘Burgundy Manor’ is a great choice for under trees. Flowers Jun-Aug H x S 75cm x 50cm
T 18 F 19 S 20 S 21 M 22 T 23 W 24 T 25 F 26 S 27 S 28 M 29 T 30
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3
Peonies Glamorous bloomers like ‘Nippon Beauty’ are ideal in borders or as cut flowers. Flowers Jun-Jul H x S 75cm x 50cm
Train these climbers, such as spectacular ‘Sieboldiana’, along walls or over arches. Flowers May-Aug H x S 2m x 1m
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June
What to do this month Enjoy a wide range of easy summer jobs, from planting and pruning to taking cuttings
Around the garden
Water and feed greenhouse plants
Deadhead your roses
This is one of those gentle, relaxing jobs to do on balmy evenings throughout the summer months. Deadheading your roses regularly – even daily – will keep them looking their best and extend the display for as long as possible. Faded flowers not only look untidy but may even lead to fungal infections that can cause stem dieback. The process varies slightly, depending on whether the flowers are held in clusters or singly.
Keep your greenhouse plants healthy and growing strongly by watering and feeding regularly. A general-purpose fertiliser is ideal for most plants, but use a specialist feed for orchids and cacti. Slow-release granules in the compost can be boosted with a fortnightly liquid feed in the watering can.
For multi-stemmed roses, cut each
flower from the cluster as it fades. Once all the flowers in a cluster have gone over, remove the entire stem. For roses with single flowers, snip off the faded flower with about 15cm of stem, cutting just above a strong healthy leaf.
Keep topiary in good shape Ensure topiary looks neat by giving it a regular trim. Use clean, sharp shears and clip only into the outer two-thirds of the current year’s growth. Keep the blades of the shears flat to the surface and be careful not to dig in with the tip. Yew, holly and box are exceptions that will grow back from deeper cuts if reshaping is necessary. Regular clipping encourages shoots to branch each time they’re cut, helping to create a dense surface to your topiary. Pick out any clippings that don’t fall to the ground.
Prune to maintain variegation Check your variegated shrubs and trees for rogue stems that are entirely green, with no variegation. Trace these down to their base, where they sprout from a main branch, and cut them off. These shoots tend to be more vigorous than the variegated ones, so if you leave them to grow they will gradually start to dominate the plant.
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Top up pond water The sun can heat up ponds and cause rapid evaporation. Check the water level once a week and top up before it drops more than 2cm. Where possible, use rainwater from water butts to discourage algae. If you have to use tap water, topping up by small amounts means that any chemicals the water contains will be kept to a minimum and should dissipate quickly.
TOP TIP
Cool your greenhouse by pouring water onto the floor in the mornings. This will evaporate as the air heats up, cooling things down. Gardening Planner • gardenersworld.com
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June
In your flower patch Take pelargonium cuttings
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Pelargonium cuttings taken now will root rapidly, as long as they’re given good light and free-draining compost. This is an easy and economical way to increase your stock of plants. A small propagator is helpful but not essential – a bright windowsill will be fine. Within a couple of months the plants will be ready to pot on, then should be kept indoors over winter for flowers next summer. Remove several strong shoot tips from a healthy plant, making your cut with a sharp knife just above a leaf joint. Snap off all but the top pair of leaves (one large and one smaller one) and any flower stalks. Trim the cutting just below a leaf joint. Use a pen or dibber to insert the cuttings around the edge of a pot of gritty compost. Good drainage is vital, as these cuttings tend to rot in soggy conditions. Water them in and place the pot on the base of a heated propagator with the lid removed and keep the compost just damp.
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QUICK & EASY
Show off your border flowers beautifully by neatening up your lawn edges – create a straight cut using a half-moon tool or flat-bladed spade. Move spent spring bulbs
Plant out tender annuals It’s now warm enough to confidently plant out tender annuals such as petunias, salvias and nicotiana. In mild areas of the UK you could do this in mid-May, but it’s safer to keep them indoors until June so they suffer no setbacks. If you snip off the first flowers, the plants will strengthen up, then bloom soon after planting. Use a trowel to plant them, then firm and water them in.
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To free up space in pots and borders for summer bedding, dig up spring-flowering bulbs and replant in a temporary spot until their foliage dies down naturally. Lift the bulbs with as many of the roots as possible. Choose a sunny, open site away from your main displays, such as on the veg plot. Dig a hole and replant the bulbs at the depth they were before. Water in well, and apply a liquid fertiliser to boost growth. Then leave them, letting the foliage die down in its own time. Once this happens, you can lift and store the bulbs for replanting in prime positions this autumn.
Give nerines a try Many nerines are tender and need to be grown in a greenhouse, but N. bowdenii will cope outdoors in most areas of the UK, producing vivid-pink blooms in autumn. This beautiful species needs a sheltered, sun-baked spot in free-draining soil. Plant the bulbs at a depth equal to two times their height. Gardening Planner • gardenersworld.com
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June
June
JOB OF THE MONTH
Plant up a hanging basket It’s not too late to create a hanging basket. The floral display is instant and it will last until the first frosts of autumn. Bedding plants such as pelargoniums, fuchsias, petunias and begonias are ideal. Choose a mix of plants that will trail over the edge of the basket and strong uprights that will give the display some height. You can colour theme your flowers for a harmonious display or go for strong contrasts to create a bold and joyful feature. Ongoing care The shape of most baskets means there’s not much root space for all the vigorous plants that are sharing it. Giving them plenty of water and feed makes all the difference. Add fertiliser to the compost when planting, then apply a liquid feed regularly too. Water daily through the summer and snip off old flowers to encourage more. If the basket is out of easy reach, rather than climbing up to it to water, you can get a retractable pulley to lower it for easy aftercare.
Use a large empty flowerpot to support the basket while you’re working on it. Gather together everything you’ll need – the liner, compost, plants, fertiliser and a watering can.
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Line the basket with hessian, leaving plenty above the rim. Place an old compost bag with punctured holes inside. Fill with new multi-purpose compost mixed with water-retaining gel.
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Mix in slow-release fertiliser and begin planting the lower plants through holes in the liner. Next add the taller central plants, and finally the trailers to cascade over the sides.
3
Trim the edges of the liner, then water well to soak the compost thoroughly. Allow it to drain before hanging it up. The plants will fill out over the coming weeks to create a ball of colour.
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June
Growing your own Water wisely When water is scarce or you only have limited time, target your efforts carefully. Focus on new plantings, germinating seedlings and plants with swelling fruits. A generous watering every few days, rather than a light sprinkling every day, encourages roots to go deep in search of ground water. Avoid overwatering tomatoes when the fruits are ripening, as the flavour may be reduced.
1
Harvest crops and fill gaps Keep picking broad beans and asparagus. Beetroot, turnips, kohl rabi and bunching carrots may be ready for pulling too. Lettuces, salad leaves and herbs are in full swing as well. It’s best to harvest these fresh whenever you need them, but you can store them in the salad drawer of the fridge for a few days if necessary. Where harvesting has cleared some ground, it’s a chance to grow a few more crops. Add a general fertiliser, then sow salad leaves, dwarf beans, plant leeks, courgettes or squash.
MINUTE S
0
QUICK & EASY
Look beneath pots, bricks and mulch fabrics for snails and slugs, and remove. Plant out dwarf French beans
AND DON’T FORGET TO...
Dwarf French beans grown from seed indoors can be planted out now. Prepare the ground by weeding thoroughly, then fork in lots of organic matter, such as well-rotted manure, as these are hungry plants. They’re thirsty too, so water them regularly. They’ll start flowering within a few weeks and will quickly form beans. These can be tricky to spot under the large leaves, so check the plants carefully. Harvest regularly to keep the supply coming.
Stake flopping plants Tie in the new stems of climbing and rambling roses
Space plants 20cm apart and plant firmly into the soil leaving a slight depression to help direct water towards the roots.
Keep picking out and potting on seedlings
1
Dig up early potatoes Early potatoes are growing rapidly, so wait for the plants to flower then start lifting them while they’re small and sweet. Carefully dig in a fork to lift the plant, then sort through the soil to find every tuber. For the best flavour, lift and eat on the same day, but allow the skins to dry if storing them. Leave maincrop plants with bigger tubers to grow. Lift these in late summer as your storage crop.
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These dwarf bushy plants will carry a weight of beans so are best supported with a short stick. Loosely tie in the stem and water the plants in well.
2
Pick soft fruit Many soft fruits are ripening now, so make sure you pick them in the best way to avoid any wastage: Strawberries, gooseberries and raspberries should be picked individually. Hold the fruit gently to avoid bruising, and discard any fruits that are showing signs of rot. Pulling currants off the sprigs tends to crush the ripe fruits. It’s better to snip off whole sprigs, then pick through them back in the kitchen ready for eating, cooking or freezing.
Hand-pull weeds before they grow too large Feed fruiting veg crops with tomato fertiliser Rub greenfly off stems and shoots Take cuttings from pinks and carnations Feed container displays regularly Keep pinching out sideshoots on cordon tomatoes
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From
YEAR PLANNER 2020
by BBC Gardeners’ World Magazine
Space for notes Organise your gardening year
Essential monthly jobs Keep on track with handy checklists
Easy seasonal projects Follow clear step-by-step instructions
Monthly star plants Give your garden year-round interest
Fruit and veg advice Enjoy delicious homegrown crops
Ways to help wildlife Make your garden a wildlife haven Cover photo by Jason Ingram: Magnolia blossom
