olive Magazine Sample Issue

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Welcome to our special anniversary issue

(part one!)

O is 20. Yes, we’ve been making every meal special since 2003, when small plates, sourdough and sriracha were ‘new’, and snapping your supper was certifiable!

I love how we continue to evolve and play in the world’s greatest food scene – developing our effortless! recipes using smart ingredients and shortcuts to make entertaining easy; bringing you the most up-to-date recipes from independently owned restaurants; and giving a platform to passionate producers, chefs and authors on our twice-weekly podcast.

Most of all, I’ve enjoyed your contributions – hearing you share your thoughts and opinions in our unique pro vs punter reviews, and learning from your ratings and comments on recipes at Omagazine.com.

Now, we’re looking forward to what’s next. Check out Omagazine.com and our social channels this month to join the conversation about future food trends.

Next month, we continue the party in another celebratory issue, including our top bucket list foods and new Happy to Host series of genius hacks. Happy eating!

Lulu Grimes, managing editor @Omagazine @lulugrimes

I’m revisiting

my olive favourites

listening to

The O podcast Columnist and recipe

whisperer Gurdeep Loyal’s podcast on 10 things to know about third culture cooking is a great listen. Gurdeep is a true food enthusiast and it’s always a joy to listen to him talk.

watching

Love Your Local videos Tiella at The Compton Arms is one of the pubs in our Love Your Local campaign. Chef Dara Klein serves rustic Italian dishes based on her parents’ restaurant in New Zealand. Look out for all of our videos and post your nominations to the chat.

At 20, O is officially Gen Z. To celebrate, we’ve commissioned a survey into the eating habits of those born between 1997-2012, with some fascinating discoveries and some trends we’ll be adopting – plus a few to avoid! Find the results in next month’s issue or online at Omagazine.com.

HOW TO CONTACT US

COOK THE COVER

Find the recipe on page 14

eating

Creamy tomato soup

No one has ever written a tomato soup recipe as good as deputy magazine editor Janine Ratcliffe’s, and with the added comfort of cheese and Marmite dippers, this is a recipe you could cook every week for a hearty homemade lunch.

Celebrate our anniversary with us with a slice of our impressive, triple-layered chocolate and hazelnut cake, which makes the most of seasonal pears. EDITORIAL TEAM OF THE YEAR –O MAGAZINE AND BBC GOOD FOOD

General enquiries: Oweb@immediate.co.uk. For subscription queries please call 03330 162 127 or visit buysubscriptions.com/contact
October 2023 Omagazine.com 3

inspiration

7 What’s new for October Three restaurants not to be missed; food, drink and homewares to suit your budget; and the latest must-try food trend.

cook

12 Cook with the season Celebrate guinea fowl, pears, figs and squash this month.

22 These quick party dishes can easily be doubled to feed a crowd.

26 Your favourites Make our luscious roast chicken slathered in fragrant tarragon butter.

28 Flavour bombs! Turn up the flavour dial with these clever twists on classic recipes.

38 Three ways with rice Delicious dishes that hero this storecupboard essential.

44 Eat well everyday Easy, speedy, nourishing meals to inspire you all week.

51 Cook a classic Make the most of plump, juicy damsons with this tart jam.

discover

54 Signature dish Pavyllon’s lamb with shiso sauce and anchoïade, and a flirty martini.

58 Bright futures We celebrate the world-class restaurants that will stand the test of time.

66 Pro vs punter Critic Tony Naylor and an O reader give their verdict on contemporary Mexican restaurant Madre in Manchester.

68 Need to know Gurdeep Loyal celebrates Jersey’s dynamic culinary scene and shares a recipe for lemony panna cotta.

70 The Measure This month is all about pre-batched martinis and autumn aperitifs.

73 Wine Get more out of what’s in your glass with the basics of wine tasting.

74 Cook like a local Dive into the fresh and zingy flavours of Mexico.

78 10 things we love about Nashville Chris Chamberlain shares the Music City’s foodie highlights.

unwind

82 Weekend menu An autumnal gastropub menu from Birmingham’s The High Field.

86 Kitchens to covet Colour and pattern define interior designer Sophie Robinson’s vibrant Sussex kitchen.

92 Kitchen therapy with Rosie Birkett Seasonal squash is the star of the show in Rosie’s warming spiced savoury tart.

97 Show off Try making Lisboeta’s hearty halibut com piri-piri.

& don’t miss

27 Subscribe today Get five issues of O for only £5.

50 Reader offer Treat yourself to a Michelinstarred meal and stay at Raymond Blanc’s Le Manoir.

80 Reader offer See the northern lights on a magical trip to Iceland.

91 Coming next month A sneak peek at our November issue.

4 October 2023 Omagazine.com 14 38

For 20 years O has been helping you to make every meal special –for more visit Omagazine.com

Starters, snacks, drinks and sides

73 A (kind of) manhattan

84 Baked St Marcellin, sultanas and red chicory

21 Celeriac and pear remoulade

38 Crispy rice squares with sushi-style stopping

51 Damson jam

56 Flirty martini

24 Potato, dill and parmesan bites

21 Quick pickled pear and stilton tartines

23 Sloe gin fizz

70 Tuxedo

Mains

Birds

29 Curried wings

13 Saffron butter guinea fowl with celeriac and greens

46 Sesame chicken

26 Tarragon chicken

Fish

97 Halibut com piri-piri

84 King prawn, hake, trout and smoked haddock served with butter leaf salad

48 Seafood linguine

30 Sicilian-vibes fish stew

76 Sinaloa-style aguachile (aguachile estilo sinaloa)

Meat

55 Lamb, shiso sauce and anchoïade

75 Northern-style stuffed peppers (chiles rellenos norteño)

43 Nutty lamb rice parcels

Vegetables

23 Aubergine lasagne

92 Butternut squash and whipped feta tart

21 Butternut squash, tamarind and coconut curry

18 Fig, thyme and ricotta tart

32 Peanut butter dal with tomato broccoli tarka

20 Pomegranate squash with dill, feta and chilli seeds

47 Sweet potato and chickpea curry

46 Tomato and vermouth risotto

48 Waldorf salad with kale

Breakfast, brunch, baking and puddings

24 Brown sugar breakfast cake

14 Chocolate, pear, olive oil and hazelnut

celebration cake

76 Corn cake (pan de elote)

41 Dirty chai rice pudding

68 Lemony panna cotta with toasted milk crumbs

34 Profiteroles with coffee, tahini and chocolate

36 Prune sticky toffee

85 Salted caramel and chocolate tart, crème fraîche and honeycomb

16 Spiced apple and pear spelt crumble

Sophie Godwin

Try Sophie’s flavour-packed recipes including curried wings (p28).

Adriana Cavita

Adriana takes us on a tour of Mexico’s vibrant flavours (p74).

Sophie Robinson

Explore the interior designer’s pattern-filled, colourful kitchen (p86).

Easy on the eye and simple to make, thanks to shop-bought ingredients and no fiddly techniques. These recipes can be made ahead and require only 30 minutes or fewer of prep – they’re go-to ideas for entertaining special guests.

October 2023 Omagazine.com 5
23 bringing you the best

October INSPIRATION

All you need to know this month, from restaurants to book to mustbuy food, drinks and homewares

Trendspotting

DRY-AGED FISH

Dry aging fish, as with meat, changes both the flavour, adding depth and complexity, and texture. Himalayan salt-clad dry-ageing rooms can now be found in restaurants serving a variety of cuisines, like Maru’s omakase menu, where fish such as tuna, brill and trout, and seafood such as squid, are aged for three to eight days; Scully in St James ages fish such as halibut (seven to 10 days); and Ynyshir in Snowdonia where mackerel is a favourite. Restaurantcum-fishmonger The Sea, The Sea is a specialist in dry aging, where fish from trout and chutoro (fatty tuna, pictured) to bass are hung for use at Leo Carreira’s 14-seat chef’s table in Hackney and his seafood bar in Chelsea as well as for other clients. theseathesea.net

October 2023 Omagazine.com 7

cook

Look forward to a month of seasonal delights, smart ideas for effortless entertaining and clever dishes you’ll want to make again and again

October 2023 Omagazine.com 11 PHOTOGRAPH: MOWIE KAY. SHOOT DIRECTOR: GILLIAN MCNEILL. STYLING: MAX ROBINSON. FOOD STYLING: LIBERTY MENDEZ

the season

Make the most of October’s best fruit and veg with these inspiring recipes

In season this month

apples butternut squash butternut squash figs grouse guinea fowl guinea kale lamb’s lettuce lamb’s lettuce leeks pears pumpkin turnips

12 October 2023 Omagazine.com
Recipes HELENA BUSIAKIEWICZ and ANNA GLOVER
C h k f ’ b f

Saffron butter guinea fowl with celeriac and greens

Saffron and celeriac are an earthy match made in heaven. The celeriac picks up the golden hue and gently poaches in the fragrant, buttery roasting juices. Grains and pulses such as Puy or green lentils, quinoa, spelt or barley all work well. Use cooked pouches or cook your own and add to the dish.

SERVES 3 (OR 2 WITH LEFTOVERS)

PREP 20 MINS | COOK 1 HR 10 MINS | EASY

large pinch of saffron

50g butter, softened

1 guinea fowl

1 celeriac, peeled and cubed

1 tbsp olive oil

500g cooked mixed grains or lentils

150g kale, cavolo nero or greens ½ lemon, juiced

1 Grind the saffron to a powder with a pestle and mortar. Transfer to a bowl and mix in the butter and a pinch of salt and pepper. Spread over the bird, pressing some of the butter in between the skin and the meat. Season the guinea fowl.

2 Heat the oven to 200C/180C fan/gas 6. Tip the celeriac into a roasting tray and toss with the olive oil. Season and sit the bird on top.

Roast for 1 hr, basting the bird and celeriac halfway through cooking.

3 Once the guinea fowl is cooked through, remove from the tin and stir in the grains and greens. Roast for 10 mins until the greens are tender and slightly crispy around the edges, and the grains are piping hot. Carve the bird and pour any resting juices back into the tray with the veg. Season and squeeze in the lemon juice.

Guinea fowl

This game bird has a slightly richer, darker meat than chicken and works perfectly with stronger flavours including woody herbs and spices. It’s a little leaner than chicken so make sure you don’t overcook it, and baste during cooking. It is smaller than a chicken, so feeds two to three people.

PHOTOGRAPHS: MOWIE KAY. SHOOT DIRECTOR: GILLIAN MCNEILL. STYLING: MAX ROBINSON. FOOD STYLING: LIBERTY MENDEZ cook October 2023 Omagazine.com 13
PER SERVING 752 kcals | fat 39.4G saturates 14G | carbs 52.4G | sugars 3.6G fibre 14.9G | protein 39.7G | salt 1G

In association with

For 20 years O has been creating inspiring seasonal recipes – for more visit Omagazine.com

Chocolate, pear, olive oil and hazelnut celebration cake

SERVES 12 | PREP 1 HR 45 MINS PLUS COOLING AND CHILLING | COOK 1 HR | MORE EFFORT

CHOCOLATE OLIVE OIL SPONGE

190ml La Española Extra Virgin Olive Oil, plus extra for the tins

2 eggs

190ml soured cream

½ tsp instant coffee granules

260g plain flour

90g cocoa powder

2 tsp bicarbonate of soda

1 tsp baking powder

135g caster sugar

135g soft light brown sugar

HAZELNUT PRALINE BUTTERCREAM

175g blanched hazelnuts

500g caster sugar

150g egg whites (about 4 eggs)

400g unsalted butter, softened edible flowers, to decorate

STEWED PEARS

4 pears, peeled and chopped (400g prepped weight)

1 lemon, zested and juiced

3 tbsp caster sugar

thumb-sized piece of ginger

1 Oil and line three 15cm loose-bottomed cake tins. Heat the oven to 200C/180C fan/gas 6. In a large bowl, whisk the olive oil, eggs and soured cream until combined. Add the coffee to 165ml of hot water and stir.

2 Slowly whisk the coffee into the oil mixture. In another large bowl, whisk the flour, cocoa, bicarb, baking powder, sugars and 1 tsp of salt, breaking up any lumps of sugar. Slowly drizzle the wet ingredients into the dry, whisking until smooth. Divide the batter between the three tins (about 380g in each) and bake for 20-25 mins or until a skewer inserted into the middles comes out clean. Leave to cool in the tins for 20 mins, then invert onto a wire rack to cool completely.

3 While the cakes cool, make the praline. Roast the hazelnuts on a baking tray at 200C/fan 180C/gas 6 for 10-12 mins or

until lightly golden. Put 200g of the sugar in a small pan and melt over a low heat, coaxing the melted amber parts into the uncooked parts with a spatula until it forms an amber caramel. Quickly and carefully pour it over the warm nuts, using a spatula to make sure they’re all covered. Leave to cool for 20-30 mins or until hard. Once the praline has cooled, break it up, put it into a food processor and blitz to a fine powder.

4 Next, make the stewed pears. Put the pears, lemon zest and juice, sugar and ginger with 125ml of water in a medium pan. Cook over a medium heat for 30 mins, stirring regularly, until broken down and slightly caramelised. Set aside to cool and then chill. Fish out the ginger.

5 For the buttercream, put the egg whites and 300g of sugar in a heatproof bowl, and put over a pan of barely simmering water, making sure the water doesn’t touch the bottom of the bowl. Gently stir for 5-6 mins or until you can no longer feel any grains of sugar between your fingers. Transfer to the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the whisk attachment. Whisk on a medium speed for 15 mins until the mixture becomes meringue-like and has reached stiff peaks. Add a fifth of the butter at a time, whisking to combine before the next addition. It may look curdled and soupy but be patient and keep whisking until you have a smooth, fluffy buttercream. Fold in the praline powder and chill for 30 mins Once chilled, put a third of it into a piping bag with a large round tip nozzle.

6 Slice off any domed tops from the cake with a serrated knife. Put the first cake layer down so the flattest side is on top. Pipe a 1½cm-thick border of buttercream around the edge of the cake, filling the circle with slightly less buttercream and flattening it slightly in the centre to fit the pears. Put half of the pears in the centre of the buttercream and push them down slightly. Put the next sponge on top and repeat until you have a final layer on top. You can use skewers to dowel the cake for added stability, if you like.

7 Crumb coat the cake by spreading a thin layer of buttercream on the top and sides of the cake, then chill for 30 mins. Use the rest of the icing to create a thicker coating, using a small palette knife and a turntable to flick lovely swoopy edges. Decorate with edible flowers and enjoy. Will keep in the fridge for three days.

PER SERVING 938 kcals | fat 58.4G saturates 23.6G | carbs 91.5G | sugars 73.7G fibre 4.1G | protein 9.6G | salt 1.1G

LA ESPAÑOLA

Each bottle of La Española Extra Virgin Olive Oil is made from 100% locally grown, Spanish olives. They are freshly crushed in our own mills, enabling us to trace the oil back to the farm where the olives were harvested.

14 October 2023 Omagazine.com

cover recipe

Pears

There are hundreds of varieties of pear and, like apples, they vary greatly in their flavour and texture. From buttery, sweet, bright-red varieties to coarse-textured, firmer ones, it’s always best to try the pears before cooking with them so you know how much sugar to add, or how much cooking they’ll need. As well as being used for desserts or cakes, you can serve simply on a cheeseboard in thin slices, in blue cheese salads, pickled on top of tartines or finely sliced in slaws.

October 2023 Omagazine.com 15 cook

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