Welcome to our special anniversary issue
(part one!)
O is 20. Yes, we’ve been making every meal special since 2003, when small plates, sourdough and sriracha were ‘new’, and snapping your supper was certifiable!
I love how we continue to evolve and play in the world’s greatest food scene – developing our effortless! recipes using smart ingredients and shortcuts to make entertaining easy; bringing you the most up-to-date recipes from independently owned restaurants; and giving a platform to passionate producers, chefs and authors on our twice-weekly podcast.
Most of all, I’ve enjoyed your contributions – hearing you share your thoughts and opinions in our unique pro vs punter reviews, and learning from your ratings and comments on recipes at Omagazine.com.
Now, we’re looking forward to what’s next. Check out Omagazine.com and our social channels this month to join the conversation about future food trends.
Next month, we continue the party in another celebratory issue, including our top bucket list foods and new Happy to Host series of genius hacks. Happy eating!
Lulu Grimes, managing editor @Omagazine @lulugrimes
I’m revisiting
my olive favourites
listening to
The O podcast Columnist and recipe
whisperer Gurdeep Loyal’s podcast on 10 things to know about third culture cooking is a great listen. Gurdeep is a true food enthusiast and it’s always a joy to listen to him talk.
watching
Love Your Local videos Tiella at The Compton Arms is one of the pubs in our Love Your Local campaign. Chef Dara Klein serves rustic Italian dishes based on her parents’ restaurant in New Zealand. Look out for all of our videos and post your nominations to the chat.
At 20, O is officially Gen Z. To celebrate, we’ve commissioned a survey into the eating habits of those born between 1997-2012, with some fascinating discoveries and some trends we’ll be adopting – plus a few to avoid! Find the results in next month’s issue or online at Omagazine.com.
HOW TO CONTACT US
COOK THE COVER
Find the recipe on page 14
eating
Creamy tomato soup
No one has ever written a tomato soup recipe as good as deputy magazine editor Janine Ratcliffe’s, and with the added comfort of cheese and Marmite dippers, this is a recipe you could cook every week for a hearty homemade lunch.
Celebrate our anniversary with us with a slice of our impressive, triple-layered chocolate and hazelnut cake, which makes the most of seasonal pears. EDITORIAL TEAM OF THE YEAR –O MAGAZINE AND BBC GOOD FOOD
inspiration
7 What’s new for October Three restaurants not to be missed; food, drink and homewares to suit your budget; and the latest must-try food trend.
cook
12 Cook with the season Celebrate guinea fowl, pears, figs and squash this month.
22 These quick party dishes can easily be doubled to feed a crowd.
26 Your favourites Make our luscious roast chicken slathered in fragrant tarragon butter.
28 Flavour bombs! Turn up the flavour dial with these clever twists on classic recipes.
38 Three ways with rice Delicious dishes that hero this storecupboard essential.
44 Eat well everyday Easy, speedy, nourishing meals to inspire you all week.
51 Cook a classic Make the most of plump, juicy damsons with this tart jam.
discover
54 Signature dish Pavyllon’s lamb with shiso sauce and anchoïade, and a flirty martini.
58 Bright futures We celebrate the world-class restaurants that will stand the test of time.
66 Pro vs punter Critic Tony Naylor and an O reader give their verdict on contemporary Mexican restaurant Madre in Manchester.
68 Need to know Gurdeep Loyal celebrates Jersey’s dynamic culinary scene and shares a recipe for lemony panna cotta.
70 The Measure This month is all about pre-batched martinis and autumn aperitifs.
73 Wine Get more out of what’s in your glass with the basics of wine tasting.
74 Cook like a local Dive into the fresh and zingy flavours of Mexico.
78 10 things we love about Nashville Chris Chamberlain shares the Music City’s foodie highlights.
unwind
82 Weekend menu An autumnal gastropub menu from Birmingham’s The High Field.
86 Kitchens to covet Colour and pattern define interior designer Sophie Robinson’s vibrant Sussex kitchen.
92 Kitchen therapy with Rosie Birkett Seasonal squash is the star of the show in Rosie’s warming spiced savoury tart.
97 Show off Try making Lisboeta’s hearty halibut com piri-piri.
& don’t miss
27 Subscribe today Get five issues of O for only £5.
50 Reader offer Treat yourself to a Michelinstarred meal and stay at Raymond Blanc’s Le Manoir.
80 Reader offer See the northern lights on a magical trip to Iceland.
91 Coming next month A sneak peek at our November issue.
For 20 years O has been helping you to make every meal special –for more visit Omagazine.com
Starters, snacks, drinks and sides
73 A (kind of) manhattan
84 Baked St Marcellin, sultanas and red chicory
21 Celeriac and pear remoulade
38 Crispy rice squares with sushi-style stopping
51 Damson jam
56 Flirty martini
24 Potato, dill and parmesan bites
21 Quick pickled pear and stilton tartines
23 Sloe gin fizz
70 Tuxedo
Mains
Birds
29 Curried wings
13 Saffron butter guinea fowl with celeriac and greens
46 Sesame chicken
26 Tarragon chicken
Fish
97 Halibut com piri-piri
84 King prawn, hake, trout and smoked haddock served with butter leaf salad
48 Seafood linguine
30 Sicilian-vibes fish stew
76 Sinaloa-style aguachile (aguachile estilo sinaloa)
Meat
55 Lamb, shiso sauce and anchoïade
75 Northern-style stuffed peppers (chiles rellenos norteño)
43 Nutty lamb rice parcels
Vegetables
23 Aubergine lasagne
92 Butternut squash and whipped feta tart
21 Butternut squash, tamarind and coconut curry
18 Fig, thyme and ricotta tart
32 Peanut butter dal with tomato broccoli tarka
20 Pomegranate squash with dill, feta and chilli seeds
47 Sweet potato and chickpea curry
46 Tomato and vermouth risotto
48 Waldorf salad with kale
Breakfast, brunch, baking and puddings
24 Brown sugar breakfast cake
14 Chocolate, pear, olive oil and hazelnut
celebration cake
76 Corn cake (pan de elote)
41 Dirty chai rice pudding
68 Lemony panna cotta with toasted milk crumbs
34 Profiteroles with coffee, tahini and chocolate
36 Prune sticky toffee
85 Salted caramel and chocolate tart, crème fraîche and honeycomb
16 Spiced apple and pear spelt crumble
Sophie Godwin
Try Sophie’s flavour-packed recipes including curried wings (p28).
Adriana Cavita
Adriana takes us on a tour of Mexico’s vibrant flavours (p74).
Sophie Robinson
Explore the interior designer’s pattern-filled, colourful kitchen (p86).
Easy on the eye and simple to make, thanks to shop-bought ingredients and no fiddly techniques. These recipes can be made ahead and require only 30 minutes or fewer of prep – they’re go-to ideas for entertaining special guests.
October INSPIRATION
All you need to know this month, from restaurants to book to mustbuy food, drinks and homewares
Trendspotting
DRY-AGED FISH
Dry aging fish, as with meat, changes both the flavour, adding depth and complexity, and texture. Himalayan salt-clad dry-ageing rooms can now be found in restaurants serving a variety of cuisines, like Maru’s omakase menu, where fish such as tuna, brill and trout, and seafood such as squid, are aged for three to eight days; Scully in St James ages fish such as halibut (seven to 10 days); and Ynyshir in Snowdonia where mackerel is a favourite. Restaurantcum-fishmonger The Sea, The Sea is a specialist in dry aging, where fish from trout and chutoro (fatty tuna, pictured) to bass are hung for use at Leo Carreira’s 14-seat chef’s table in Hackney and his seafood bar in Chelsea as well as for other clients. theseathesea.net
cook
Look forward to a month of seasonal delights, smart ideas for effortless entertaining and clever dishes you’ll want to make again and again
the season
Make the most of October’s best fruit and veg with these inspiring recipes
In season this month
apples butternut squash butternut squash figs grouse guinea fowl guinea kale lamb’s lettuce lamb’s lettuce leeks pears pumpkin turnips
Saffron butter guinea fowl with celeriac and greens
Saffron and celeriac are an earthy match made in heaven. The celeriac picks up the golden hue and gently poaches in the fragrant, buttery roasting juices. Grains and pulses such as Puy or green lentils, quinoa, spelt or barley all work well. Use cooked pouches or cook your own and add to the dish.
SERVES 3 (OR 2 WITH LEFTOVERS)
PREP 20 MINS | COOK 1 HR 10 MINS | EASY
large pinch of saffron
50g butter, softened
1 guinea fowl
1 celeriac, peeled and cubed
1 tbsp olive oil
500g cooked mixed grains or lentils
150g kale, cavolo nero or greens ½ lemon, juiced
1 Grind the saffron to a powder with a pestle and mortar. Transfer to a bowl and mix in the butter and a pinch of salt and pepper. Spread over the bird, pressing some of the butter in between the skin and the meat. Season the guinea fowl.
2 Heat the oven to 200C/180C fan/gas 6. Tip the celeriac into a roasting tray and toss with the olive oil. Season and sit the bird on top.
Roast for 1 hr, basting the bird and celeriac halfway through cooking.
3 Once the guinea fowl is cooked through, remove from the tin and stir in the grains and greens. Roast for 10 mins until the greens are tender and slightly crispy around the edges, and the grains are piping hot. Carve the bird and pour any resting juices back into the tray with the veg. Season and squeeze in the lemon juice.
Guinea fowl
This game bird has a slightly richer, darker meat than chicken and works perfectly with stronger flavours including woody herbs and spices. It’s a little leaner than chicken so make sure you don’t overcook it, and baste during cooking. It is smaller than a chicken, so feeds two to three people.
In association with
For 20 years O has been creating inspiring seasonal recipes – for more visit Omagazine.com
Chocolate, pear, olive oil and hazelnut celebration cake
SERVES 12 | PREP 1 HR 45 MINS PLUS COOLING AND CHILLING | COOK 1 HR | MORE EFFORT
CHOCOLATE OLIVE OIL SPONGE
190ml La Española Extra Virgin Olive Oil, plus extra for the tins
2 eggs
190ml soured cream
½ tsp instant coffee granules
260g plain flour
90g cocoa powder
2 tsp bicarbonate of soda
1 tsp baking powder
135g caster sugar
135g soft light brown sugar
HAZELNUT PRALINE BUTTERCREAM
175g blanched hazelnuts
500g caster sugar
150g egg whites (about 4 eggs)
400g unsalted butter, softened edible flowers, to decorate
STEWED PEARS
4 pears, peeled and chopped (400g prepped weight)
1 lemon, zested and juiced
3 tbsp caster sugar
thumb-sized piece of ginger
1 Oil and line three 15cm loose-bottomed cake tins. Heat the oven to 200C/180C fan/gas 6. In a large bowl, whisk the olive oil, eggs and soured cream until combined. Add the coffee to 165ml of hot water and stir.
2 Slowly whisk the coffee into the oil mixture. In another large bowl, whisk the flour, cocoa, bicarb, baking powder, sugars and 1 tsp of salt, breaking up any lumps of sugar. Slowly drizzle the wet ingredients into the dry, whisking until smooth. Divide the batter between the three tins (about 380g in each) and bake for 20-25 mins or until a skewer inserted into the middles comes out clean. Leave to cool in the tins for 20 mins, then invert onto a wire rack to cool completely.
3 While the cakes cool, make the praline. Roast the hazelnuts on a baking tray at 200C/fan 180C/gas 6 for 10-12 mins or
until lightly golden. Put 200g of the sugar in a small pan and melt over a low heat, coaxing the melted amber parts into the uncooked parts with a spatula until it forms an amber caramel. Quickly and carefully pour it over the warm nuts, using a spatula to make sure they’re all covered. Leave to cool for 20-30 mins or until hard. Once the praline has cooled, break it up, put it into a food processor and blitz to a fine powder.
4 Next, make the stewed pears. Put the pears, lemon zest and juice, sugar and ginger with 125ml of water in a medium pan. Cook over a medium heat for 30 mins, stirring regularly, until broken down and slightly caramelised. Set aside to cool and then chill. Fish out the ginger.
5 For the buttercream, put the egg whites and 300g of sugar in a heatproof bowl, and put over a pan of barely simmering water, making sure the water doesn’t touch the bottom of the bowl. Gently stir for 5-6 mins or until you can no longer feel any grains of sugar between your fingers. Transfer to the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the whisk attachment. Whisk on a medium speed for 15 mins until the mixture becomes meringue-like and has reached stiff peaks. Add a fifth of the butter at a time, whisking to combine before the next addition. It may look curdled and soupy but be patient and keep whisking until you have a smooth, fluffy buttercream. Fold in the praline powder and chill for 30 mins Once chilled, put a third of it into a piping bag with a large round tip nozzle.
6 Slice off any domed tops from the cake with a serrated knife. Put the first cake layer down so the flattest side is on top. Pipe a 1½cm-thick border of buttercream around the edge of the cake, filling the circle with slightly less buttercream and flattening it slightly in the centre to fit the pears. Put half of the pears in the centre of the buttercream and push them down slightly. Put the next sponge on top and repeat until you have a final layer on top. You can use skewers to dowel the cake for added stability, if you like.
7 Crumb coat the cake by spreading a thin layer of buttercream on the top and sides of the cake, then chill for 30 mins. Use the rest of the icing to create a thicker coating, using a small palette knife and a turntable to flick lovely swoopy edges. Decorate with edible flowers and enjoy. Will keep in the fridge for three days.
PER SERVING 938 kcals | fat 58.4G saturates 23.6G | carbs 91.5G | sugars 73.7G fibre 4.1G | protein 9.6G | salt 1.1G
LA ESPAÑOLA
Each bottle of La Española Extra Virgin Olive Oil is made from 100% locally grown, Spanish olives. They are freshly crushed in our own mills, enabling us to trace the oil back to the farm where the olives were harvested.
cover recipe
Pears
There are hundreds of varieties of pear and, like apples, they vary greatly in their flavour and texture. From buttery, sweet, bright-red varieties to coarse-textured, firmer ones, it’s always best to try the pears before cooking with them so you know how much sugar to add, or how much cooking they’ll need. As well as being used for desserts or cakes, you can serve simply on a cheeseboard in thin slices, in blue cheese salads, pickled on top of tartines or finely sliced in slaws.