ADVANCE WEAVING
ADVANCE WEAVING
Faculty Guide: Prof. Kurma Rao
Imon Khandakar PG Textile Design 2012-2013
INTRODUCTION Advanced Weaving module has been an insight into the world of compound structures with fabrics of a different function and aesthetics. The module was 4 weeks long under the eminent guidance by Prof. Kurma Rao. The entire design process was divided into two sections – understanding and weaving the basic compound weaves and making a prototype/product using any one of them. Introduction to the course started with understanding drafting; tie up plan and treadle plan and their combinations to get a structure graph. A structure graph is a unit which multiplies into a pattern for a fabric throughout. The entire work process was interesting. The class was divided into 8 groups (two students) each handling 1 compound weave namely: Leno, Double sided terry, Backed cloth, Multilayer, Quilt, Special warp and weft, Imitation inlay, Extra warp. The basics of these weaves were in the minimum number of shafts to be used. Hence we were introduced to the Arm Loom (automated). It has 24 shafts and the design feed is manually done which then operates on a loop automatically. Only the weft sequence is to be changed as per our pattern/ design.
Each person within the group was allotted different number of shafts and drafting to work upon. With this, structure graphs were made. Each of us then selected a color story (forecast/ wherever) for the warp. The material and count of the warp and reed was chosen to suit the stability of the weave. The basics of each weave were then theoretically understood and warping calculation done. After the warps were put on the loom, in case of Multilayer, how layers are formed and what role weft sequence plays was understood. This transformed into color blocking and interaction of different weaves (plain, twill) came in. not only aesthetically but also functionally we looked at the samples for example wadding (for cushioning ). The explorations were countless and with each sample the concept became clearer. One of the important exercise we underwent was when each group had to explain their weaves to others. The clarity with which each explained and absorbed other structures was explicit. It made our base stronger and communication was smooth. Also while working on other weaves hands on, we could find a similarity between all of them and how we can combine multiple weaves to create fabrics. This was helpful in the second phase when we had to choose weaves to do a product/prototype.
CONTENTS INTRODUCTION COMPOUND STRUCTURES WOVEN SAMPLES
SHARED WARP WARP 1 - MULILAYERED WARP 2 - PRODUCT/PROTOTYPE
CONCLUSION
COMPOUND STRUCTURES Compound structures consists of more than one series of warp and weft. The different types of compound structures are• Backed Fabric • Extra Warp • Special Warp and Weft • Terry • Leno • Imitation Inlay • Quilt • Double Cloth • Multi Layer
DOUBLE CLOTH & MULTILAYER The basic idea is that of multilayer but only two layers of cloth is being woven at the same time. Separating the face layer from the back is the key to weaving this structure. When the face layer is woven, the back layer ends should not be raised and likewise when the back layer is woven, the face layer ends are also raised but not used. The structure can be woven with 4 shafts. Structure of double cloth X - Face layer - Back layer - Face layer is raised while back layer is getting woven.
The different kinds of double cloth which can be woven are-
1. Two independent layers on top of one with selvedges on both sides, woven with two shuttles. 2. Double width cloth Joined from one side from the weft, woven with one shuttle. appears double cloth during weaving, off the loom it unfolds into double width single layer fabric.
3. Tubular cloth Joined on both sides by the weft and woven with single shuttle. 4. Stitched double cloth two layers joined at intervals through the interchange of warp or weft or with additional warp or weft threads. 5. Pockets and Pleats creates three dimensional fabric, where one layer is woven longer than the other and brought back to the level of the first layer. To create pleats both the layers need to be on two separate beams. 6. Double cloth with warp & weft interchange at the interchange, the layers are tightly bound together, either for strength or as a design element. The ways they can be interchanged are shown beside.
Vertical interchange of layers. Horizontal interchange of layers. Horizontal and vertical interchange.
WARP AND WEFT RATIOS 1:1 Ration 1 end of face layer and 1 end of back layer using the same thickness of yarns. 1:1 Ration 1 end of face layer and 1 end of back layer using two different thicknesses of yarns. 1:2 Ration 1 end of face layer and 2 ends of back layer using the different thicknesses of yarns. 1:3 Ration 1 end of face layer and 3 end of back layer using two different thicknesses of yarns. 1:1:1 Ration 1 end of face layer, 1 end of middle layer and 1 end of back layer is using the same thickness of yarns.
BACKED FABRIC In construction of backed fabric the concept is there is two type of weave (A & B) combined together to create a third weave pattern, which has A dominated face and B dominated back. “Backed� fabrics are characterized by an additional series either of warp or weft threads employed for the purpose of increasing their strength, weight, bulk and warmth, or any one of those properties, without affecting their surface appearance. Warp Backed Fabrics have two series of warps and one series of weft, while Weft Backed Fabrics have two series of wefts and one series of warp. This fabric structure is characterized with odd number of bindings/floats which are created by twill and satin weave structures.
weave A weave B Weft sequence: 1. weft 1 (O) 2. weft 2 (X)
FACE
BACK
EXTRA WARP Mainly used for ornamentation by the means of Extra threads either in the warp or in the weft. Extra threads are added on the basic ground structure of the fabric where removal of extra threads from the fabric does not destroy the ground fabric structure and leaves a complete ground structure in place. Traditional Indian saris have borders have extra warp while the pallu and the buti in the body are extra weft. In extra Warp Weave – the lines show vertically. In extra weft Weave – the lines show horizontally.
EXTRA WARP
EXTRA WEFT
1 step in pattern graph (ground fabric has 2 seperate shafts) 2 or more series oh warp 2 or more warp beam yarn has to be strong enough to be able to use in the warp. productivity of loom is higher because one series of pick in inserted.
1 step in pattern graph. 2 series of weft and one series of warp. Extra weft can be done using a single warp beam. yarn with single count with less strength cn be used. productivity of loom is less because of multiple picks being used.
SPECIAL WARP & WEFT Warp as well as Weft both plays an equal role in forming the pattern. There is a combination of warp and weft floats which are interlaced by a series of binding warp and binding weft. Both face and back has equal importance. The structure consists of two sets of threads in the warp as well as in the weft, which are-
Binding warp and Binding weft Threads in the warp and in the weft keeps binding the pattern warp and pattern weft at regular intervals. The binding threads are not supposed to be seen on the fabric hence binding threads are much finer compare to pattern threads.25% of binding thin threads.
Pattern warp and Pattern weft Forms the pattern on the surface of the fabric and relatively much thicker compare to binding threads. Thus, the pattern warp and weft interlace to create a pattern while the binding warp and weft interlace to bind and make the fabric strong.75% of pattern thick threads.
TERRY Terry pile is a class of warp pile structure in which certain warp ends are made to form loops on the surface of the fabric. The loops may be formed on one side only or on both sides of the fabric thus producing single sided and double-sided structures. A high tension is applied to a ground warp and a very low tension to a pile warp. •Uncut pile fabrics manufactured with an extra set of warp yarns to create the loop by slack-tension method. •Terry toweling quality, cost, and durability depend on weave type (plain or twill), count of base cloth, and loop characteristics. •Terry cloth has pile on both sides of the fabric. some fabrics hve pile on the face side only.
LENO Leno weave is used to produce an open but very strong and stable fabric in combination with plain weave. It is a weave in which two warp yarns are twisted around the weft to provide a strong but sheer fabric. The standard ground warp yarn is paired with a strong skeleton warp. It is made by the pairs of warp yarns specially arranged to crisscross the weft yarns, and hold the weft yarns evenly apart.
IMITATION INLAY This structure creates one pattern on one side and a different pattern with different colours on the opposite side. Although all weft colours are being used on both sides but when one colour is used on face side then that colour cannot be used in opposite side. When wefts on one side passes over a greater number of warps than the opposite side and are packed so tightly that the undesirable colours are hidden even though it is used. In inlay warping pattern has 2 set of warp: 1. Bone warp. 2. Stitching warp. weft used minimum is 3 colours in 1 pick to balance both face and back of the fabric.
QUILTED WEAVE This weave structure creates quilted effect on the fabric by weaving itself. This has 2 set of warp as ground warp & Pattern warp. Ground warp makes the fabric and Pattern warp creates binding point to get quilting effect as per the pattern designed. It works based on the double cloth technique along with the help of stitching both layers.