Inclusivity or Exclusivity? By Kate Hayhurst
Lifestyle
They say don’t judge a book by its cover, but that is precisely what is beginning to happen within the fashion world. On average, one person in the UK will spend £1093 on clothes in one year, emphasising the significance of fashion. Over the years, ‘style’ has become not only a way to dress, but also a way to express identities and align ourselves with a particular group. Many major brands are expanding their range to become more inclusive, such as Zara with their women’s waistcoats and Goose and Gander as a mainstream gender-neutral brand. While it can be empowering to have a trope of identities presented in fashion, downfalls are beginning to emerge from this effort, which may reinforce stereotypes in the media and wider society. We have come a long way since the 1950s when the stereotypically encouraged way a woman could dress was to wear pencil skirts and tight sweaters. The fashion industry and people’s views regarding women and how they can dress have progressed. We now don’t only have a ‘one size fits all’ approach, but a long list of identities of what it means to dress like a woman.
“Despite attempts at inclusivity, misconceptions about gender and clothing persist in the fashion industry”
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This achievement was made possible by collaborating with a diverse group of influencers, showcasing a variety of fashion styles on the red carpet, and, perhaps most importantly, by the rise of new companies that cater to specific identities. Famous fashion brands have also expanded their range by promoting different styles. Having waistcoats and dresses under the women’s label on their website, at first sight, shows that any of these clothes can match a woman’s identity. Despite attempts at inclusivity, misconceptions about gender and clothing persist in the fashion industry due to traditional and patriarchal gender roles. For example, a recent article published by Vice had its headline ‘How to dress to show that you’re queer (without just slapping on a rainbow)’. The article provides dressing instructions, including wearing jorts, dad shirts, and a loud-patterned suit. Having this as a step-to-guide to be identified as queer is concerning. While it may be an attempt to promote visibility, it simultaneously promotes stereotypes. The notion that lesbians should dress in a masculine manner reinforces gender stereotypes regarding sexuality and relationships. While it may promote same-sex relationships, it still relies on traditional relationship roles where one partner dresses in a masculine fashion and the other in a feminine fashion. It also suggests that within a same-sex relationship, there should be someone ‘wearing the pants’, someone who is more masculine than the other. On the other hand, many celebrities are adopting the pantsuit style and showcasing it on the red carpet. For instance, openly straight actress Daisy Edgar Jones looked stunning in her fitted, flattering pantsuit attending a London Premiere. It’s wonderful to see a woman in a high-profile environment acknowledging this trend. Thanks to its growing popularity this look is now considered fashionable and up-todate, meaning people can now wear stereotypically ‘lesbian’ clothing without fear of criticism or reaction. Many will concur that having it publicly acknowledged in the fashion industry is consoling.
