A DELVE INTO THE WINE PRODUCTION PROCESS WITH A PROFESSIONAL WINERY OWNER MARCOS ZAMBARTAS

A DELVE INTO THE WINE PRODUCTION PROCESSWITH A PROFESSIONAL WINERY OWNER, MARCOS ZAMBARTAS

Legend has it that wine originated from Cyprus when the Goddess of love, Aphrodite, was taught by her besotted lover Dionysus how to vinify grapes. Indeed, Cyprus’s iconic port-like Commandaria is in fact the world’s oldest regionally identified wine still in production and still made from the same indigenous grape varieties, Mavro and Xynisteri.

Marcos Zambartas is a young and energetic Cypriot winemaker and the owner of Zambartas wineries. His business is located in the scenic Krasochoria region, more specifically in the village of Agios Amvrosios, where one can visit and experience the art of winemaking up close and personal. Marcos runs the winery together with his wife Marleen and their dedicated team.

What motivated you to join the wine industry and to subsequently become a winemaker?

Marcos Zambartas: The science of oenology has been practiced by the Zambartas family for the past 50 years. Together with my late father I have visited many wine regions across the world and have developed an affinity to the exciting world of wine. Being versed to chemistry from a young age, and later at university, it was straightforward to specialise further in oenology. Being a winemaker is a job out of the ordinary which resonates substantially to me.

Do you consider your approach to viticulture and winemaking to be different to others?

MZ: One of the beauties of owning a small winery is that I can express my inner self when creating a wine without deviating from what the consumer expects. Thus, my approach differs from others by being very personal. In practical terms, in viticulture and winemaking we apply minimal intervention by working along with nature and not against it. In the vineyards, we follow organic practices and avoid preventative spraying. Instead we promote the natural defences of the vineyard, encourage biodiversity, and observe for vine disease, curing it at its source with mild and locally applied organic substances. We achieve minimal intervention and unnecessary use of additives in winemaking because the grapes we source are of exceptionally good quality and the ergonomic design of the winery facilitates mild handling of the grapes and of the produced wine.

How involved do you get in the vineyard?

MZ: In my early days as a winemaker I was involved in all aspects of viticulture. From cultivation of the ground to loading crates full of grapes for transport to the winery. Nowadays, we have a dedicated team to cultivate the vineyards and my role is to offer the guidelines for responsible viticulture and efficient practices.

Do you have any varieties you prefer to work with?

MZ: I have a particular liking to make quality and expressive wine from Cypriot grape varieties, which other winemakers consider incapable of producing. Namely Mavro and Xinisteri.

What would you consider your greatest achievement as a winemaker?

MZ: My greatest achievement to date is the production of the ‘Single Vineyard Xynisteri’. This white wine elevated the consumers’ perception of this variety from an ordinary grape, to one that produces high quality and age-worthy white wines. Other winemakers have embarked on producing this style of wine now.

Your Rosé wine has put Cyprus on the map for quality Rosé wines. Can you talk about how you craft your style of Rosé which shows both elegance and opulence?

MZ: Zambartas winery broke the norms when its rosé was first produced in 2006, and is still going strong today. It was deliberately produced to be darker in colour than the average rosé wine, with explosive aroma and luscious taste. When we designed this wine, we had identified the grape varieties to give the organoleptic profile, the right vineyards and we took the risk of macerating the crushed berries for a length of time not advised by any wine consultant. The outcome was worth the risks.

What’s the best part of your job?

MZ: The actual production period, or the harvest as winemakers call it. It is the time when nothing else matters much. All the energy and focus is channelled to make the best possible wine at a time that nature dictates the deadlines, and mistakes are rarely forgiven.

When you are not enjoying Zambartas wines, what are some of your favourite wines in the world? What is your cellar like?

MZ: I can drink champagne (or other quality sparkling wine) from 10am to midnight. Not because of the glamour associated with it but because I know how painstakingly difficult is to produce these delicious wines and the risks associated. My cellar is stocked up with wines that were given to me as presents or bought during my wine travels. In any case they are wines that bring up warm memories of dear friends and moments when enjoyed.

What do you think is the biggest challenge facing the wine industry right now?

MZ: There are quite a few challenges the wine industry is facing currently. The younger consumers seem not to acquire a liking for wine, the distribution channels are narrowing down, and irresponsible drink driving is not helping consumption. Wineries need to be innovative in their approach to consumers to thrive.

Do you have any new plans or new releases coming up?

MZ: Always! We have produced a red wine in 2017 from a vineyard planted in 1921! The wine will be launched sometime in Spring 2019 and it will be only available at the winery for tasting and sales. It is a red wine style long forgotten on the island and I am very excited to reintroduce it the market. Light style and ideal for our warm summer.