Incredible Greece Issue #7 by Incredible Greece

INCREDIBLE GREECE

— LESVOS —

URBAN ELEGANCE THE MAGNIFICENT MANSIONS OF MYTILENE WHISPERS OF YESTERYEAR SANTORINI THROUGH THE LENS OF R. M c CABE THE INFLUENTIAL CREATOR INTERVIEW WITH DIMITRIS PAPAIOANNOU

YOUR FREE COPY

FRAPORT GREECE MAGAZINE

ERES ATHENS, Voukourestiou 6, 105 64 ERES MYKONOS, Nammos Village, 846 00

callista.comcallista.com callista.com

LOUIS VUITTON LV BY THE POOL 2024

A collection that brings the desire for exotic travel into everyday lifestyle. Like a tropical dream interpreted through a multitude of new products, this is an inspired journey that celebrates the season of escape, conjuring the feeling of wanderlust and revelling in vibrant designs. Across ready-to-wear, bags, shoes, textiles, accessories and more, the collection is rich with natural materials and vivid colour, offering a lush, transversal rediscovery of the themes that are true to Louis Vuitton. Whether relaxing beachside or wandering through small towns, ready-to-wear proposes vacation dressing that exudes a laid-back allure. With free-spirited character and elevated craft, the bags of LV By the Pool stand out for their artful and tactile animations. The Monogram reappears as a uniquely treated cotton denim on the LetGo tote, as well as a tiled watercolour effect in eye-catching blue or orange across key styles such as the OnTheGo, Coussin and the Neverfull. In natural, hand-crocheted raffia accented with leather detailing, the Nano Speedy and Noe bucket, showcase a summery spin on the Maison’s artisanal, savoir-faire. Also novel are the Capucines styles in wicker and rattan, which entail intricate French basketry and braiding techniques. The tropical theme is further explored with the Capucines, Capushell and Twist models.

Athens: Voukourestiou 19, Tel: +30 210 3613938

Mykonos: Chora | Nammos Village | Zuma www.louisvuitton.com

EDITORIAL

Welcome to Greece:

Your Gateway to an Unforgettable Summer.

Dear travellers,

It is my great pleasure to extend a warm welcome to you as you embark on your journey to Greece. This summer, we anticipate a new record of international travellers, reflecting Greece’s infinite charm and your continued enthusiasm for our exceptional destinations.

Our 14 regional airports are ready to provide you with a seamless and comfortable travel experience, with a diverse range of amenities and services, while our dedicated and skillful team remains alert to ensure that your arrival marks the beginning of an extraordinary adventure.

While we celebrate this remarkable resurgence in tourism, we remain committed to working closely with our business partners and authorities to achieve a sustainable balance. Our aim is clear and straightforward: to safeguard our natural treasures and cultural heritage, thereby ensuring that Greece remains a cherished destination for future generations. From the pristine beaches of Crete to the ancient wonders of Rhodes, Greece offers a diverse array of landscapes and experiences tailored to every traveller’s preferences. Through this edition of Incredible Greece, we invite you to immerse yourself in the rich Greek culture and embark on a journey of discovery. Whether your pursuit is one of adventure, relaxation, or a combination of both, Greece stands ready to fulfil your aspirations with its unique hospitality.

We are honoured that you have chosen Greece for your summer travels. Together, let us create unforgettable memories this season!

With sincere regards,

Alexander Zinell CEO, Fraport Greece

The first Biennale of Contemporary Keramics in Greece comes to Santorini. 50

58 Rural Island Life

66 Majestic Beaches

74 Timeless Charm

84 The Creator

92 Ionian Allure

100 Whispers οf Yesteryear

110 Mythical Heights

118 Faces οf the Αegean

Corfiot cuisine blends the cosmopolitan flavours of Venice with local delicacies.

The hidden, rural, and tranquil side of Mykonos.

Crystal-clear waters, golden sandy beaches, and picturesque landscapes describe Zakynthos.

The Old Town of Chania keeps its traditions intact.

An interview with the internationally acclaimed Dimitris Papaioannou.

Paxos boasts vibrant mansions, an endless blue sea, and lush green landscapes.

Robert McCabe. A black-and-white journey through 1950s Santorini, by Robert McCabe.

Ascending Mount Olympus is the ultimate mountaineering adventure.

«Marabou Project». A photographic journey through the Marabou Project.

AKTIO: Alamy Photos/www.visualhellas.gr, CHANIA: Alamy Photos/www.visualhellas.gr, CORFU: Christos Miaris, KAVALA: Getty Images/Ideal Image, KEFALONIA: Constantinos Sofikitis, KOS: Constantinos Sofikitis, LESVOS: Alamy Photos/www.visualhellas.gr, MYKONOS: Yiorgos Kordakis, RHODES: Christos Drazos, SAMOS: G. Pachantouris/Getty Images/Ideal Image, SANTORINI: Yiorgos Kordakis, SKIATHOS: Constantinos Sofikitis, THESSALONIKI: Sakis Gioumpasis, ZAKYNTHOS: Matteo Colombo/Getty Images/Ideal Image 66 58

124 Nature’s Εmerald

136 Blue Horizons

144 Urban Elegance

154 Τhe Cave of the Nymphs

158 Ancient Symposium

166 A Nautical Heritage

170 Paradise on Earth

174 A Blend of Mountain and Sea

178 A Taste of Kos

184 Echoes of Ancient Athens

Thassos boasts abundant nature, stunning coastlines, and centuries of history.

Timeless and majestic, Lindos graces the southern shores of Rhodes.

The magnificent mansions of Mytilene provide a journey through history.

The cave of Melissani is one of the most impressive sights in Kefalonia.

Archaeologist Mariana Kavroulaki creates dishes inspired by the Minoan era.

Samian traditions endure in the shipyard of Agios Isidoros of Samos.

Koukounaries is the most renowned and photographed beach on Skiathos.

Pelion is a destination for every season of the year.

Five traditional dishes of the island.

The Stoa of Attalos, the largest covered area for trade in ancient Greece.

Each new edition of the magazine embarks on a journey across the breathtaking lands of Incredible Greece. With great enthusiasm, we document in writing and photography our country’s beauty and meet with its wonderful, hospitable people, immersing ourselves in each unique experience.

Within these pages, we slip into the crystalline waters of Zakynthos and scale the most mythical summit in all of Greece. We cook flavours from Kos, are invited to a traditional Cretan feast, and allow the splendid mansions of Lesvos to cast their spellbinding allure upon us. Through the lens of the renowned Robert McCabe, we unearth the timeless beauty of a bygone Santorini and chat with the globally acclaimed Dimitris Papaioannou. Every page unveils a unique journey.

This issue is special for one more reason. It is certified by the Forest Stewardship Council (FSC) and carries its label. The organisation’s vision is the sustainable management of the world’s forests, respecting environmental, economic, and social rights for generations to come. This includes the responsible harvesting of trees to ensure there is no net loss of forest over time. It’s a small label with a significant impact. Read on and enjoy!

Safe Travels!

Ioannis K. Dragounis

GR EN

INCREDIBLE GREECE

PUBLISHED BY

I. K. DRAGOUNIS PUBLICATIONS P.C. Ifigeneias 81, Nea Ionia 142 31 Tel. +30 2160 027 027

Publisher - Editor In Chief

IOANNIS K. DRAGOUNIS

Art Director MANOS DASKALAKIS/ PARACHUTE®

Managing Editor ISABELLA FOUSTANOU

Deputy Editor ROMINA XYDA

CONTRIBUTING EDITORS

GEORGIA DRAKAKI, STEFANOS GOGOS, EFTHIMIS KALFAS, KALLIA KASTANI, CHRISTINA KATSANTONI, MARIA PASSARIVAKI, ELENI PSYHOULI, MAKOS TSIMETAS

Proof Reading GEORGIA TSANTILA

English Renditions KAROLINA THOMOGLOU

Creative Translation Editor BRIAN KNIGHT

Photo Editor GEORGIA GEORGOPOULOU

Photoshop Editing & Retouching

STELIOS SOFIANOS

Financial Services IAS LTD

PRINTING / PRODUCTION HAIDEMENOS AEBE

COMMERCIAL SERVICES ADVERTISING DEPARTMENT UNIQUE ERA

AGGELIKI KYRKILI, IOANNA KOUKOU Tel. +30 210 3425515

INCREDIBLE GREECE® THE FRAPORT GREECE AIRPORTS MAGAZINE BIANNUAL PUBLICATION FOR THE 14 REGIONAL AIRPORTS

Chief Executive Officer

INCREDIBLE GREECE magazine exclusively for FRAPORT GREECE

Germanikis Scholis 10, Marousi 15123 Tel. +30 2144 000 484

Executive Director of Commercial and Business Development

ALEXANDER ZINELL

GEORGE VILOS

Airline Marketing and Development Manager KATERINA POLLATOU

FRAPORT GREECE DOES NOT NECESSARILY SHARE THE OPINIONS EXPRESSED IN THE MAGAZINE. NO PART OF THIS PUBLICATION MAY BE REPRODUCED -PARTIALLY OR IN FULL- WITHOUT THE PRIOR EXPLICIT WRITTEN PERMISSION OF THE PUBLISHER. THE MAGAZINE IS DISTRIBUTED FREE OF CHARGE. RESPONSIBLE AGAINST THE LAW IOANNIS K. DRAGOUNIS.

DEFY SKYLINE CHRONOGRAPH

Visual for demonstration purposes only. Please consult the official seller before purchasing.

Rodos Palace is Ready To Welcome You

IG: vamare_residences

E: info@vamare.gr

Tel.: +30 216 90 01 633

www.vamareresidences.gr

PROJECT H

FIVE RESIDENCES

NORTHERN SUBURBS

ATHENS, GREECE

The first Biennale of Contemporary Keramics in Greece comes to Santorini and lasts till October.

Text: Georgia Drakaki

CER AM IC STORIES

Young.

BLOSSOMS OF THERA - Iosifina Kosma. Right: Untold Stories, Figurines of Akrotiri - Yena Young.

ΔΕΞΙΌΣΤΡ

Ταύρος - Χρήστος

Συναφή - Desa

Philippi, Πήλινες Ίνες - Helena Boddenberg, Cli(t)hera - Amyel Garnaoui.

CLOCKWISE: Bull - Christos Tsoumplekas, Affinities - Desa Philippi, Earthen Fibres - Helena Boddenberg, Cli(t)hera - Amyel Garnaoui.

Amidst the picturesque white alleyways of Santorini, the Aegean Sea as a backdrop, twenty artists share their unique narratives through twenty original works. The 2024 Biennale of Contemporary Keramics showcases the transformative essence of clay skillfully wielded by craftspeople in a place deeply rooted in this form. Hosted at the Museum of Prehistoric Thera, with the ancient settlement of Akrotiri as its focal point, this event pays homage to a vibrant settlement once teeming with rich social and cultural life. The earth has preserved remnants that have surfaced, unveiling aspects of daily life in ancient Cycladic Thera. In this area, 5,000 ceramic vessels of various types and sizes, along with tools, figurines, ritual objects, and furniture, were discovered, attesting to the significance of the settlement. The 2024 Biennale of Contemporary Keramics is a tribute to the primordial elements of nature, and invites creators and audiences on a journey through the malleable yet enduring universe of ceramics. The Biennale is under the patronage of H.E. the President of the Hellenic Republic Ms. Katerina Sakellaropoulou.

We are changing a lot to support even more.

Enduring Legacy

The thread of the kingdom of Macedon unfolds at the Polycentric Museum of Aigai.

and historical significance.

The elongated structure of the museum stretches an impressive 7,000 square metres. Limestone, marble, and glass combine to form a contemporary masterpiece reminiscent of a modern art gallery. Dominated by stark white, the interior evokes a mystical, otherworldly atmosphere. The undisputed centrepiece is the 30-metre reconstruction of the palace’s upper floor facade in the museum’s grand atrium. Stepping into the central exhibition of Aigai Memory unearths a treasure trove of artefacts. Here, the wealth of the once-great city is laid bare in gold and silver. Remnants of warfare are also present in sturdy bronze swords and sharp arrows. Alongside these fascinating artefacts, glimpses of everyday life emerge: weaving looms, warps, cooking utensils, amphorae, and intricate objects from the world of women, such as jewellery and perfume bottles. In the hall of sculptures, the spotlight falls upon the statue of Eurydice, Queen of Macedon and grandmother of Alexander the Great, a man whose impact on ancient history is unmistakable.

ΝΕΑ BMW X1.

https://bmw-spanos.gr

In Santorini, tomatoes have a rich history, a distinct flavour, and a dedicated museum

Red Gold

EN GR

The experience offered at the Tomato Industrial Museum “Dimitris Nomikos” in Santorini is a journey through the history and traditions of this botanically unique fruit, one that is central to Greek culture. This year, the museum is celebrating its 10th anniversary.

In the old factory with its iconic chimney set against the eerie volcanic formations of Vlychada Beach, the Red Gold era is brought back to life. This era, lasting until the late 1950s before the rapid rise of tourism, was when the cultivation of tomatoes brought employment and prosperity to the island.

The history of tomato farming in Santorini unfolds through exhibits tracing back to the 1890s when tomatoes were first imported to the island. The ideal, arid environment allowed the tomatoes to thrive, imparting them with a distinct aroma and a unique, sweet taste. Old tools, machinery, archival materials, packaging and rich audiovisual content invite visitors to explore a part of the island’s heritage and identity.

Tinos»,

Odera Tinos, the first luxury hotel on the island, promises an unforgettable experience

Cycladic Retreat

EARTHY TONES and natural materials reflect the island’s vibrant energy.

EN GR

Nestled in an idyllic location adjacent to the beach of Vourni with unobstructed views of the Aegean Sea, Odera Tinos, Autograph Collection invites visitors to experience unparalleled hospitality and discover the true essence of Tinos. The hallmark of the new resort is its emphasis on authenticity, capturing the spirit of the island’s culture through culinary delights and various activities, including hiking, fishing, marble carving workshops, and other arts. Spread across 20,000 square metres, Odera Tinos offers 77 rooms and suites each with a swimming pool. There’s an impressive spa, and a beach club on a serene stretch of sand, inviting visitors to immerse themselves in the unique atmosphere of the Cyclades. The architecture is in harmony with the natural environment and local aesthetics, while the interior design and decor draw inspiration from tradition. Culinary offerings crafted by chef Dimitris Skarmoutsos are based on Mediterranean flavours with touches of authentic local cuisine, embodying the essence of pure Cycladic tradition.

EPICURE AN

EXCELLENCE

fine dining. Fusing the soul of Greece with the heart of Italy, Corfu has mastered the subtle techniques of cosmopolitan fine dining.

Text: Eleni Psyhouli

GR EN Corfiots love bold and exhilarating flavours akin to a culinary voyage on the palate. Unique delicacies such as kumquats, butter, Spetseriko (a mix of aromatic spices) and Noumboulo (Corfiot charcuterie) fuse with cosmopolitan Venetian flair in local specialities, showcasing the ultimate creative expression of Ionian cuisine.

For over three decades, Etrusco (ranked among the top 100 restaurants globally) has amassed numerous accolades. Ettore Botrini, following in his father’s footsteps, has elevated Corfiot cuisine into an art form, showcasing the island’s essence. Surrounded by the sights and scents of blooming flowers, olive groves and fragrant herbs, you witness the land’s bounty artfully transformed into culinary masterpieces. Here, guests delight in a flavourful journey blending memories of the past with a contemporary twist as they explore the intricacies of the two tasting menus on offer.

Nestled in a historical building on Kremastis Square, the Venetian Well restaurant exudes romantic Corfiot charm. Each dish served is a tribute to the finest products sourced from the island’s land

Etrusco (1,

Pomo d’Oro (3).

CORFIOT

culinary art by Ettore Botrini at Etrusco (1, 2). Unexpected combinations at Pomo d’Oro (3).

GR EN and sea. The experienced Corfiot chef, Spyros Agious, has crafted a contemporary menu with finesse, creativity, and fine techniques. His signature Surf & Turf, a creation featuring a red bovine fillet paired with octopus, onions and a red wine sauce, embodies the essence of his culinary artistry.

Aristotelis Megoulas of Pomo d’Oro, recognised as one of the most influential chefs of the decade, pursued economics studies in Bologna before returning to his roots to redefine Corfiot cuisine. At his restaurant, culinary traditions blend brilliantly with modern innovation in a dish of weeverfish with pickled artichokes and cabbage juice that is inspired by traditional Corfiot Bianco.

Makris Fine Dining, στo Domes Miramare, a Luxury Collection

Located in Domes Miramare, a Luxury Collection Resort, the decorated resume of Makris Fine Dining boasts numerous awards, with Petros Dimas crafting each dish to reflect the essence of Corfu’s

Makris Fine Dining (1, 3). Το

Pomo d’Oro (2).

THE REFINED atmosphere of Makris Fine Dining (1, 3). The elegant Pomo d’Oro (2).

For over three decades, Etrusco has amassed numerous accolades. Ettore Botrini, following in his father’s footsteps, has elevated Corfiot cuisine into an art form, showcasing the island’s essence.

landscape. Embracing an organic farm-totable approach, the cuisine radiates a deep appreciation for local ingredients, some foraged, particularly herbs and flowers.

του νησιού,

σε μια κουζίνα που προτιμά χαμηλούς τόνους

Meanwhile, at Flya, a restaurant within the eco-friendly Olivar Suites, Spyros Voulismas presents beloved traditional dishes showcasing a cuisine that values subtlety, ingredients from local farms and eco-consciousness. An example of this ethos is the simple yet elegant artichoke dish paired with green olive oil, citrus zest, dill and a spicy pickled carrot.

Since 1951, Mrs Toula of Toula’s restaurant has seen the biggest celebrities who have passed through the island honour her seafood. Today, her son Nikos Vergetis leads the charge, garnering awards for his innovative seafood creations like lobster Βriam

Lefteris Lazarou, curates the menu at White House restaurant, a culinary masterpiece featuring the catch of the day, fresh seasonal produce, and a passion for exceptional flavours.

On the sophisticated Athens Riviera, at the tip of a pine-clad peninsula

Four Seasons offers a laid-back seaside escape just 30 minutes from the historical city centre

Discover the wonders of ancient civilization at the Acropolis, then return to Four Seasons to unwind and relax.

Located in Domes Miramare, the decorated resume of Makris Fine Dining boasts numerous awards, with Petros Dimas crafting each dish to reflect the essence of Corfu’s landscape.

journey at White House (1, 3). Tapas overlooking the Ionian Sea at Oliva (2).

(roasted vegetables) and crawfish moussaka. Greece’s seafood maestro, Lefteris Lazarou, curates the menu at White House restaurant, a culinary masterpiece featuring the catch of the day, fresh seasonal produce, and a passion for exceptional flavours.

With a cosy setting of just 11 tables, Klimataria tells the story of Nikos Bellos, who prepares fresh fish and zesty plates, complemented by his wife Lily’s salads and desserts. Embracing local tradition, this restaurant is beloved by the community.

Overlooking the Ionian Sea, Oliva of Ikos Dassia infuses Corfiot flavours with a Spanish twist. Michelin-starred chef David Ibarboure brings his creative touch to tapas, paella and seafood dishes inspired by Andalusia, his homeland.

A farm, an old wood-fired oven, and a modern cheese factory unveil the hidden side of Mykonos.

RUR A L ISL AND LIFE

Text: Kallia Kastani, Photos: Christos Drazos

The other face of Mykonos is present in scattered fields with dry stone walls, in οlive groves and fertile vineyards, in solitary chapels, wine presses and olive mills, and in old wood-fired ovens. Most people don’t see it. Yet, amidst the constant parties and jet-setters filling the cosmopolitan Chora and renowned beach clubs, a simple, picturesque and quiet rural world exists.

This charming side of Mykonos emerges in Maou, at the historical vineyard of the monastery of Ano Mera. Mykonos Vioma, an eco-farm, was born from owner Nikos Asimomyti’s desire to leave Athens and return to his homeland and its traditions. It began in 1994, cultivating family fields in Marathi and Koumiri. Later, he expanded to the abandoned vineyard of the monastery of Panagia Tourliani in Maou and replanted with Aegean grape varieties such as Assyrtiko, Athiri, Monemvasia, Malagousia, Agiannitis, and Mandilaria. Today, in addition to wine, the vineyard produces vinegar, vine leaves, molasses and table-grapes and the farm hosts dogs, cats, chickens, goats, and one donkey. There are 15

GR ΕΝ

Gioras Bakery , located in Lakka of Chora, is another significant landmark of Mykonos. This old, traditional wood-fired oven is said to have been lit for the first time in 1420 CE during the Byzantine era and is considered the oldest in Greece. It was purchased by the Vamvakouris family in the 1920s for 65,000 drachmas (an astronomical sum for the time). It still resides in the same whitewashed basement with thick stone walls, arches, and a ceiling with large wooden beams. In the past, sailors bought its famous sea bread, a type of hardtack with a long shelf life, ideal for lengthy voyages. Legend has it that these humble Mykonian rusks were present during the Napoleonic wars, as Gioras supplied them GR

beehives for producing honey, and organic seasonal vegetables and herbs are cultivated. Bread is baked in the old wood-fired oven using traditional methods. Mykonos Vioma is open daily for tours and tastings. In recent years, bicycle excursions have been organised to allow visitors to explore untouched, hidden corners of the island to discover its beautiful nature and authentic culture.

GIORAS BAKERY is thought to be the oldest operating bakery in Greece.

GR EN to the French armadas. Today, although it no longer produces bread, it offers visitors sweets, cookies, and pastries and remains a vibrant part of local tradition.

Finally, Mykonos Farmers, a model cheese factory, was inaugurated in 2018 in Agios Lazaros by two Mykonian childhood friends with a shared vision: Giorgos Syrianos, a third generation farmer and cheese maker, and Thanasis Kousathanas, with a background in economics and a family history in hotels. Together, they created a unique space that blends tradition with modernity and offers an agro-tourism experience. Their factory specialises in local cheeses such as Xinotyro (white and slightly sour), Kopanisti (soft and spicy), Vrasto (semi-hard and with a strong flavour), Niari (soft and with a short maturation period), and Tyrovolia (white and soft) Additionally, it offers visitors something unique beyond tours and tastings: cooking classes and the opportunity to make cheese on-site, providing a literal taste of the Cyclades.

Yet, amidst the constant parties and jet-setters filling the cosmopolitan Chora and renowned beach clubs, a simple, picturesque and quiet rural world exists.

MAJESTIC WATERS

Azure waters, golden sands, picturesque landscapes and absolute relaxation describe the beaches of Zakynthos.

Text: Georgia Drakaki, Photos: Μarina Vernicos

THE MUCHPHOTOGRAPHED and secluded Shipwreck is the hidden gem of the Ionian Sea.

POPULAR Laganas and idyllic Xigia. Right: The marvellous Marathonisi.

GR First mentioned in Homer’s Iliad, beautiful Zakynthos has been making history ever since. Its alluring beaches, boasting crystalline waters, are second to none. Navagio Beach is an island landmark (also known as Shipwreck Beach or Smugglers Cove). The remnants of the Panagiotis, a smuggler’s vessel, are nestled on its shores in a secluded cove framed by white cliffs. Banana Beach beckons with its water sports, entertainment and pristine azure waters. It is the island’s longest stretch of sand and is extremely popular. Nearby, Plaka Beach offers tranquillity and perfect sunsets. Rich in minerals leached from caves nearby, the therapeutic waters of Xigia Beach (a combination of two beaches) are akin to a spa experience. The resident taverna on the pebbled half of its shores overlooks the crystalline waters and treats guests to lunch, dinner and delicious meze beneath the shade of pines. Nestled in a bay

The beaches on the western part of the island are hard to reach, but they will impress you with their wild beauty. The most remote are accessible by boats that make trips daily.

waters and golden sands.

PEACE, tranquillity, and azure waters make up Mizithres.

ΕΝ of therapeutic, inviting and turquoise waters in the south of the island, Gerakas Beach is undoubtedly one of the most beautiful. The clay shore on the left of the long, wide beach is famous as a nesting site for endangered Caretta-caretta sea turtles. Kalamaki Beach is a lengthy stretch of fine, light brown sand boasting crystal clear, balmy waters perfect for nocturnal swims. The adjacent and lively beach of Laganas is well-equipped with crowded bars and restaurants. Finally, one can not depart from Zakynthos without venturing out on Lake Keri . Rented boats take guests through its caves, meandering natural rock tunnels and past the Mizithres rock formations which lead to an idyllic beach. From there, you can visit Marathonissi, a secluded and uninhabited island featuring two more beaches, one pebbly and the other sandy.

Like the bay of Laganas, which borders the National Marine Park, the most popular and easily accessible sandy beaches are in the eastern part of the island.

The Οld Τοwn of Chania preserves time-honoured and cherished traditions while continually shaping its unique identity

Text & Photos: Stefanos Gogos and Maria Passarivaki

TIM ELESS CHARM

The ancient buildings, narrow streets and old shops captivate you, along with the White Mountains rising behind the promenade and the Egyptian lighthouse.

Kydonia of the Minoan era, Al Hanim of the Arabs, La Canea of the Venetians, and Chania of the Ottomans, Jews and Christians – history remains alive at every point, waiting to be discovered through paths that still stand unchanged in time, even today.

In the past, Chania was a vital commercial and intellectual hub of the Mediterranean and the capital of the autonomous Cretan state. Today, calling it merely one of the most beautiful cities in Greece falls short; it is one of the most stunning island cities in the Mediterranean.

The charm of Chania’s Οld Town is characterised by impressive alleys that emerge from the weathered façades of ochre buildings. Her charm is in the Venetian harbour and in endless strolls through a veritable open-air museum of history and architecture, making it the most photographed place in Crete. The first time you visit, it feels like stepping into another world. The ancient buildings, narrow streets and old shops captivate you, along with the White Mountains rising behind the promenade and

THE CATHEDRAL of Chania, the Maritime Museum at the western edge of the harbour, and the mosque of Küçük Hasan (Giali Tzamisi).

the Egyptian lighthouse, perhaps the oldest in the Mediterranean. You will be charmed by the locals who infuse their quaint neighbourhoods with their lives, dreams, and art. On Zabeliou Street, there are pottery workshops like Flakatoras, where a family paints, polishes, and fires clay amidst hundreds of visitors daily. Venetian palazzi and mosques coexist harmoniously with Ottoman mansions, hammams, and synagogues. Among them are small museums like the Folklore Museum of Chania, located opposite the cathedral. The museum is modelled after an old Cretan residence and is maintained by Eirini Koumandraki, a talented artist. Narrative paintings created on linen fabric with touches of silk thread tell the history of the island and its inhabitants. The Centre of Traditional Folk Art and Culture is also worth visiting. It houses the workshop of Maria Galanaki, one of the most skilled embroiderers in Crete, where you can purchase decorative woven fabrics and accessories.

SOLEMNITY within the Cathedral of the Dormition of the Virgin Mary. Charm in every corner of the

Τown.

Chania invites you to stroll endlessly through the Venetian harbour which stretches up the Koum Kapi on the coast of Miaouli. Along the way, there are plenty of opportunities to take pause: the beautiful mosque of Küçük Hasan (also known as Giali Tzamisi) located on the Kountourioti coast with its colourful buildings, the Grand Arsenal and other atmospheric Venetian shipyards which have been transformed into modern hangouts, like the Chania Sailing Club with its marina and fishing boats – all stand out. The journey through the centuries continues in the Venetian quarter, where some of the city’s most significant landmarks are located: the Monastery of San Salvatore with the Byzantine and Post-Byzantine Collection of Chania where one can admire remarkable mosaics, frescoes, inscriptions, icons, and the Virgin of Renier. Stop in the Jewish quarter, one of the most picturesque neighbourhoods along the pedestrian street of Kondylaki. There is another stop on the eastern side of the Old Town where Splantzia Square is situated, once the Turkish quarter. Today, it’s a beloved spot among locals for savouring Cretan delicacies beneath the shade of

The journey through the centuries continues in the Venetian quarter, where some of the city’s most significant landmarks are located: the Monastery of San Salvatore and the Virgin of Renier.

an old plane tree. The only reminder of the past is the minaret of Agios Nikolas – the only church in Greece with a bell tower and an Islamic minaret. Built as a monastery by the Venetians before 1320, it was later claimed by the Ottomans and converted to a mosque. Nearby, the historical quarter of Mahairadika still stands. Its appearance may have evolved, but the echoes of Chania’s legendary knife-making resound from Armenis shop. Chania also beckons you to stroll to the Firka Fortress, a symbol of Crete’s union with Greece since 1913, now home to the city’s Maritime Museum. As the sun begins to set and throngs of travellers converge upon the waterfront to secure the perfect vantage point opposite the Egyptian lighthouse, you will feel a myriad of emotions. It feels like participating in a mystical initiation ceremony into the enigmatic allure of the Cretan sea.

THE OLD HARBOUR’S Egyptian lighthouse and Kastelli hill – historical guardians of Chania.

THE CREATOR

Dimitris Papaioannou

The artist whose multifaceted work established him as one of the most influential figures in contemporary art.

Text: Romina Xyda

ΕΝ

Starting from humble beginnings in the basements of Exarchia, he soared to new heights on the world’s biggest stages and festivals. Today, with his innovative approach and profound aesthetic, he continues to create and inspire.

If we were to switch places and you were in my position, what would be the first question you would ask Dimitris Papaioannou? What stage in life are you in?

So, what stage do you currently find yourself in? As I turn 60 and enter the third and final act of my life, I have decided to organise my vast archive, encompassing 45 years of creativity. This collection spans from painting and comics to contemporary dance theatre and back to painting again. I realised that if I don’t undertake this task now, someone else will have to do it when I’m gone, and I don’t want that. Over the past decade, I’ve had the immense fortune of showcasing my work on international stages at the world’s best festivals and theatres. I’ve noticed that among the enthusiastic audiences, there are many young people. I want to personally pass on my life’s work to the next generations.

That sounds a bit morbid. It’s like saying, “I’ve grown up, I’m

another work of his multi-dimensional artistic career.

ΕΝ approaching the end, and now I’m reflecting on my life.” Death is the only certainty in life. I don’t say this mournfully but with full awareness of my responsibility towards my life’s work and my love for young people. One hundred years from now, if a young 20-year-old is interested in exploring the archaeology of art, I want them to discover something I have made personally.

Let’s go back in time. What were you like as a child? I would passionately draw with markers on walls, floors, and paper. And I’d craft entire shows with my plasticine. I spent countless solitary hours because my hardworking parents were often occupied. I was an introverted child, hesitant to venture out into the neighbourhood to play. I excelled academically until my teenage years, but then I became awful.

Did your family support this talent of yours, which, if nothing else, shone brightly? My parents came from humble means. My mother worked as a hairdresser, while my father crafted furniture and signs. There was little evidence of art in our home – no paintings or books except for an encyclopaedia by Eleftheroudakis, where I first saw pictures. Yet, fueled by immense love and aspirations for

I shed various vanities I once held. Furthermore, I realised the futility of fame. It merely facilitates securing a table at a fully booked restaurant. That’s all reputation amounts to, nothing more.

their child, they toiled tirelessly to afford an exceptional education. For that, I owe them everything. Upon entering this esteemed institution, my instructors immediately recognised my artistic talent. In my school, I was known as “the kid who paints.” At 17, the school administration decided to showcase my artwork in the library. Among the esteemed guests was Tsarouchis.

A year later, at 18, you run away from home to become a painter. Why? For two reasons: being gay was not permitted by my parents, and pursuing a career in the arts was not acceptable. These were the two pillars of my existence, and they were forbidden. So, I made the best decision of my life. I completed my education, packed a suitcase, and disappeared. Without seeking support, I lived independently, and continued to navigate life on my own terms.

Did they look for you? Were you told to come back? Certainly. Four months after I left home, I succeeded in my exams for enrollment in the School of Fine Arts, and that’s when my father reached out, saying, “Come home, let’s reconcile.” I responded, “I don’t need anything.” For years, I harboured anger. However, with time, not only did our relationship mend, but it flourished. I take pride in my decision to break free entirely instead of settling for secrecy, opting for complete independence and self-reliance. And after that? Alone in the anarchic, revolutionary atmos-

OPENING CEREMONY of the 2004 Olympic Games – “2”, a performance.

phere of Exarchia, I sustained myself by painting portraits of affluent women. Yet, I felt disconnected from my own generation; my art failed to resonate with them. To bridge this gap, I turned to publishing comics in Babel and Para Pente –affordable art consumed by my peers– initiating a dialogue with them. It was during this period that I encountered Mary Tsouti, a dance instructor and choreographer renowned for bringing together diverse and intriguing young talents. Enthralled by the contemporary dance scene, I immersed myself in its exploratory spirit. Following an audition, I caught the attention of Ellen Stewart, known as “La MaΜa” in New York’s experimental underground theatre scene. She invited me to the US, where I underwent training in the butoh dance technique. Upon my return in ‘86, I found “Omada Edafous,” a dance ensemble that disrupted the Greek dance landscape with notable figures in the audience such as Melina Mercouri and Manos Hadjidakis, among others.

After numerous triumphs, the 2004 Olympic Games emerged, where you spearheaded the conception and execution of the opening and closing ceremonies, earning global acclaim. As the lights dimmed, did you capitalise on this success? The opening ceremony is a landmark in my life for many reasons, but not because it made me known internationally. They didn’t write about me. They hardly mentioned my name. The praises were about the work, not the person. And no, I didn’t benefit from this in terms of my popularity. Even if I hadn’t done the Olympic Games, I would have followed the same path. In fact, when I returned to theatres abroad in 2015, it was considered almost negative that I had engaged in something so commercial. However, I became tremendously popular in my country, receiving an enormous love that I still feel to this day.

Has success and recognition changed you as a person? They transformed me profoundly, as I shed various ambitions

highlighting the search for identity.

and vanities I once held. Furthermore, I realised the futility of fame. It merely facilitates securing a table at a fully booked restaurant. That’s all reputation amounts to, nothing more.

n the realm of the performing art you have served diverse artistic spaces – alternative, mainstream, both or neither? Over the past decade, the festivals I’ve attended have showcased some of the most extreme art worldwide. Nevertheless, I can’t label myself as “alternative” when I’ve orchestrated two Olympic opening ceremonies, even if they leaned towards the alternative side. One thing is certain: I’ve never compromised my identity. Beginning in a wholly alternative space, I garnered immediate popularity with the hybrid and paradoxical creation I devised, shaping a mainstream career from it.

Do negative reviews anger you? They used to stir anger within me. Now, they don’t even register on my radar. And do you know why? Because I find immense satisfaction in having widespread appeal without pursuing projects solely for popularity’s sake. One of nature’s most precious gifts to me is my ability to communicate effectively. I’ve encountered esteemed artists whom I deeply respect but who struggle to connect with popular sentiment, only with fanatical audiences. For me, because I have a humble essence within me, I can resonate with anyone. The fact that a month after the opening ceremony, I stepped into a taxi and the driver said, “I won’t take money from you,” was the greatest reward.

Tell us a few words about your book entitled, “Sketches From Life”. For the past three summers, I frequented a beach in Anafi, sketching unsuspecting nudists, capturing landscapes, and creating portraits of people. I sought an escape from the career and the competition that comes with it. And thus, this book came into being. Yes, even at the beach, I continued to create art. As Joseph Beuys once said, “The artist never takes a vacation.” And neither did I.

IONIAN ALLURE

Paxos is synonymous with olive groves, rugged cliffs, vibrant mansions, Byzantine churches, and boundless turquoise waters.

Text: Kallia Kastani, Photos: Amalia Kovaiou

GR EN

ΤΟ

BOURNAΟS café, the Folklore Museum, and Erimitis Beach.

On my initial boat ride into the harbour of Gaios, the late afternoon sky painted a warm hue of orange on the horizon, while the buildings burst in a spectrum of colours –ochre, salmon, burgundy, brown, and cypress– creating a surreal, expressionist dreamlike scene. In the fjord, a natural, narrow passage between the coastline and the lush islet of Agios Nikolaos at the harbour’s entrance, the anchored boats gently swayed, forming a tranquil procession of white vessels. There is a comforting, oddly familiar essence to this place. From the locals, you’ll hear the tale of Poseidon, who, with his trident, struck Corfu and separated a portion of it to the south –Paxos– to conceal his affection for Amphitrite. The island’s early inhabitants believed it to be a sacred sanctuary of love for the gods, perhaps shedding light on its mystical allure.

Locals will also tell you that one of the most picturesque afternoon strolls can be found along the waterfront and through the quaint alleyways of Gaios. With just 500 permanent residents, Gaios is the main settlement in Paxos. The vibrant neoclassi-

cal buildings, like the half-ruined yet magnificent British governor’s residence of old, and the 1905 school donated by Andreas Syggros –now home to the Folklore Museum– add to the charm.

You’ll be introduced to three of Paxos’ most enchanting spots for a romantic escapade: the historic lighthouse in Lakka (the other big port of the island, in the north), known for its mesmerising sunsets; the Venetian castle on the islet of Agios Nikolaos, a monument painstakingly restored based on Leonardo Da Vinci’s blueprints; and the Greek Cistern in Fanariotatika, offering a breathtaking panoramic vista. Most cisterns on the island are architectural remnants from British rule.

You will be regaled with tales of the ancient olive groves boasting age-old trees and weathered dry stone walls, and the historical olive mill gracing Longos, another charming and bustling, pastel-painted fishing village with a turquoise cove in the east of Paxos. They’ll direct you to Magazia village, a place where time seems to stand still, for a delightful breakfast experience at Bournaos, a

ΕΝ traditional café established in 1953.

You will be sent to the Monastery of Panagia of Vellianiti with the miraculous icon of the Assumption of the Virgin Mary that attracts hundreds of pilgrims every August 15th. In 1892, one visitor was Elisabeth, the Empress of Austria!

They’ll guide you to hidden beaches: from the lush coastal havens of Harami and Orkos in the island’s north, to the exotic Glyfada Beach with its mineral-rich waters. Families flock to the inviting shores of Mongonissi, while Galazio Beach offers a stunning display of ever-changing blue hues. Venture to the caves of Achai Bay in the west, to the towering rock of Ortholithos standing 20 metres high against the sea, and to the captivating stone arch of Tripitos emerging from Ionian waters – three natural marvels. Discover the pristine beauty of Erimitis Beach, adorned with white pebbles and turquoise waters, formed following a landslide in 2008. As an aside, don’t miss the Seychelles-like beaches of Antipaxos, located 5.5 miles southeast of Paxos, offering a taste of paradise in Greece.

WHISPERS OF YESTERYE A R

Here’s a black-and-white journey through the authentic Santorini of the 1950s, a time when the island had no concept of tourism.

Text: Christina Katsantoni, Photos: Robert McCabe

THE FIRST bus on the island, a baptism in Emporio, and the cruise ship Aegeon.

GR EN

The island’s sole bus ferries passengers from Perissa to Fira, pausing at intervals to cool the engine. Two men sip their coffee, the Aegean Sea and the venerable Aegeon, a steamship, forming a picturesque backdrop. House doors stand open, revealing smiles etched into weathered faces. From windows waft the scents of frying pans, fish, or the beloved summer Sfougato (traditional egg dish). Children play barefoot in their yards while donkeys and mules laboriously transport people and goods along steep paths. This is Santorini of the 1950s, before the hordes of visitors posing for selfies in front of the Caldera. This is the humble and authentic Santorini of toil and simplicity in an era of innocence that has vanished.

The 1950s finds the island determined to be reborn –literally– from the ashes. The last volcanic activity occurred in January 1950. Those who lived through it describe flames erupting from a boiling sea. Not that it deterred them. They knew well that Santorini is not just located on a volcano; it is a volcano which submerged and reshaped the island during the great eruption of 1500 BCE, memories of which pulse through its veins like an irresistible force of destruction and creation.

The island’s approximately 12,000 inhabitants were primarily farmers cultivating grapes, tomatoes, and wheat. There were also many fishermen, quarry workers, sailors, and dockworkers.

OVERLOOKING

Perissa from Ancient Thera, a fisherman off the coast of Yialos, and tomato harvesting.

AT LOUKAS’ restaurant in Fira. Passengers and cargo are transported from the ship to the shore by tender. GR

Most of the Aegean islands at that time were unfamiliar with the concept of tourism. Now, Santorini hosts 2.5 million people annually. But, in 1954, the island had two sole visitors: Robert McCabe, a 20-year-old photographer, and his brother Charles, both guests of Peter Nomikos.

μοναδικοί «ξένοι» ήταν δύο νεαροί Αμερικανοί,

καλεσμένοι του Πέτρου Νομικού: ο 20χρονος, φωτογράφος Robert McCabe και ο αδελφός του, Charles. Τότε, το ταξίδι από τον Πειραιά, με το πιο καινούρ

Οι περίπου 12.000 κάτοικοι του νησιού ήταν κυρίως αγρότες, καλλιεργούσαν σταφύλια, ντομάτες και σι-

Υπήρχαν

At that time, the journey from Athens on the Miaoulis, the newest ship of the line, was an overnight affair. The island’s approximately 12,000 inhabitants were primarily farmers cultivating grapes, tomatoes, and wheat. There were also many fishermen, quarry workers, sailors, and dockworkers. The bus, a jeep, mules, and donkeys were the sole means of transportation, to which their masters spoke in their own unique dialect.

In the mid-1950s, Santorini stood on the brink of a tremendous transformation. In 1956, a massive earthquake measuring 7.5 on the Richter scale not only caused human casualties but also led to the destruction of most of the island’s houses, particularly in Oia, Fira, and Imerovigli. It was the largest earthquake of the 20th century in Europe, and the tsunami it generated reached the nearby islands of Amorgos, Astypalea, and Folegandros.

After the earthquake, Santorini was rebuilt from the ground up. The reconstruction programme laid the foundations for a complete transformation from a humble Aegean island into the renowned cosmopolitan destination it is today.

Robert McCabe continued to return to the island he fell in love with, photographing the wounds as well

FIRA in the early 1960s. Children ring church bells.

as the strength, solidarity, toil, resilience, and gentle spirit of the inhabitants. He captured the unique light of the place striving to emerge and, later on, the changes brought by development and the arrival of tourism.

In the following years, he travelled throughout the Aegean, photographing Greek islands on behalf of the National Geographic Society, always focusing on the people and their lives as defined by their relationship with the sea. Many of these photographs are featured in Xαίρε Ξένε. In the Land of Dreams, an exhibition, being showcased at the Acropolis Museum until September 8th, offering a unique and valuable journey through memory in post-war Greece.

Robert McCabe continued to return to the island he fell in love with, photographing the wounds as well as the strength, solidarity, toil, resilience, and gentle spirit of the inhabitants.

Not only does Mount Olympus belong to the Greek gods of mythology, but also to the mere mortals who climb it

Text: Georgia Drakaki, Photos: Giannis Paraskevas

M YTHICA L

HEIGHTS

The expedition on Olympus is a singular odyssey embellished with indelible scents, sights, and subtleties. Those who have braved this mountain’s ascent find themselves inexorably drawn to return.

ASCENDING

Olympus epitomises the ultimate mountaineering adventure.

This majestic peak, where gods and muses once roamed, where Zeus hurled down his thunderbolts, captivates you effortlessly. Soaring 2,918 metres high to Mytikas, its peak, this mountain was the first site in Greece to receive national park status. It’s a one-hour thirty-minute drive from Thessaloniki, and summer through late October is the perfect time to explore. Amidst the rocky terrain, wild goats saunter and leap effortlessly. Cascading waterfalls, ravines, and rushing streams adorn the landscape. At the same time, impressive forests of fir, pine, beech, and oak trees create an unparalleled vista. Yet, to be explored, it demands discipline and reverence.

The trails traversing Mount Olympus offer a range of challenges. The route we embark upon is a popular choice, though not for the faint of heart. It typically takes around seven hours, yet may extend to eight or nine accounting for necessary breaks. Our journey commences from the Gortsia post at 1,120 metres shortly after passing the Stavros shelter. Setting off on the western path towards the Gortsia ridge, we follow one of the primary access points to the lofty peaks of Mount Olympus. Pausing at Barba provides a brief

and alternative vacation enthusiasts from around the globe.

EACH SUMMER, Mount Olympus welcomes nature lovers

respite before pressing forward towards the Petrostrouga shelter. Our journey passes over the summit of Skourta, continues through Laimos, a narrow ridge, and culminates at the Pass of Giosos Here, nestled within this gully, climbers put their endurance and fortitude to the test against a vertical fissure among the rocks. Transitioning onwards, the shelters perched atop The Plateau of Muses (Giosos Apostolidis and Christos Kakkalos, respectively) stand as beacons for the intrepid souls unwilling to yield, steadfast in their pursuit of reaching the pinnacle – the eternal Mytikas.

The saga of Mount Olympus unfolds afresh with each passing day whenever adventurists and mountaineers resolve to scale its heights. It teems with a diverse array of small creatures and flora that progressively transition as elevation increases, stealing one’s breath. The expedition on Mount Olympus is a singular odyssey embellished with indelible scents, sights, and subtleties. Those who have braved this mountain’s ascent find themselves inexorably drawn to return at their earliest opportunity. Are you prepared to take on the challenge?

GREECE’S HIGHEST mountain embraces legends and myths from ancient times to the present day.

Faces of the Aegean

ΚAΤA ΤΟΝ MΕΓA ΛΟ ΠΟΙΗΤΗ Κ. Π. ΚAΒAΦΗ, ΣΗMAΣΙA ΔΕΝ ΕΧΕΙ Ο ΠΡΟΟΡΙΣ MΟΣ, AΛΛA ΤΟ ΤA Ξ ΙΔΙ.

ΔΎΟ ΣΎΓΧΡΟΝΟΙ ΤA ΞΙΔΕΎΤΕΣ ΤΟ ΕΠΙΒΕΒAΙΏΝΟΎΝ…

ACCORDING TO THE RENOWNED POET C. P. CAVAFY, IT IS NOT THE DESTINATION THAT MATTERS, BUT THE JOURNEY. TWO MODERN TRAVELLERS ECHO THIS SENTIMENT.

Text: Romina Xyda, Photos: Constantinos Sofikitis

Miltos Makris, Milos. BOTTOM Klimis family, Kalymnos.

Archontoula, Karpathos. BOTTOM Florios Kritikos, Naxos.

Stelios Kostoglou, Kos. BOTTOM Costas Chrisogelos, Thassos.

Lemnos, September 2019. Brothers Constantinos and Petros Sofikitis embark on a personal odyssey named Marabou. Their journey takes them across the Aegean islands, from the Cyclades to the Sporades and the Dodecanese. Their mission: to unearth untold stories from a diverse array of people bound by their deep love for their homeland, a fervent dedication to preserving their history, and an insatiable thirst for life, capturing and sharing these narratives with the world.

Their investigation unfolds amidst the vibrant pulse of island life in cafés, squares, and bustling markets. Engaging in fleeting exchanges or lingering dialogues, they find themselves on the trail of elusive figures often known only by their colourful aliases. This was the case when they left Patmos for the bordering island of Arki, seeking the famed “Al Capone.” Other times, their explorations take them off the beaten path to places untouched by tourists, where passenger ships don’t go. Such was the case when they set sail from Ikaria to find Kyra Rinio, the solitary dweller of Kinaros.

With each passing day, month, and year, their journeys unfurl with narratives that evoke a sense of profound timelessness. The words of each protagonist spin tales that feel as if a lifetime occurred just yesterday, while others remain unfinished, halted by either emotion or age. Among them are many iconic figures whose stories now gaze at us from Constantinos’ meticulously curated photo album and speak to us through Petros’ masterfully evocative documentary. Within these two cherished endeavours lie the recounting of human tales and the earnestness of the two travellers to unveil local customs, age-old traditions, and precious fragments of the cultural heritage of Greece. Most importantly, they serve as devoted custodians of folkloric identity, painstakingly safeguarding memories of island life and preserving the unique essence of each location. After all, time remains a relative concept, often shrouded beneath layers of dust, waiting for a mighty gust of wind to unveil the faded splendour of those who once thrived within it.

Within these two endeavours lie the recounting of human tales and the earnestness of the two travellers to unveil local customs, traditions, and precious fragments of Greece’s cultural heritage.

Alithini Koliousi, Santorini. BOTTOM Thanasis Karanastasis, Rhodes.

NATURE’S

E M ER A LD

Blessed with lush nature, pristine coastlines, and rich history, Thassos has rightfully earned this title – “The Emerald of the North Aegean ”

Text: Kallia Kastani, Photos: Perikles Merakos

THE WHITE PEBBLES of Saliara. The golden sands of Pachis. The wild beauty of Livadi. The natural pool of Giola – Aphrodite’ s Τear.

και τα σκιερά μονοπάτια της, καθιστώντας την τον απόλυτο προορισμό για φυσιολάτρες, ορει-

βάτες, πεζοπόρους, παρατηρητές πουλιών, δύτες,

In contrast to the arid white-blue landscapes typical of the Cyclades islands, Thassos is known for its lush and vibrant greenery: olive, pine, oak, plane, fir, ash, dogwood, cedar trees and shrubs adorn its mountains, valleys and shaded pathways. It’s a haven for nature enthusiasts, climbers, hikers, birdwatchers, divers, mountain bikers, and all thrill-seekers looking for adventure.

This rugged, untamed terrain features a 115-kilometre coastline boasting pristine, expansive stretches of golden and white sand beaches leading into crystal-clear emerald waters. The names are evocative: Golden Coast, Golden Beach, Aliki, Pachis, Paradise, Saliara (Marble Beach) and the otherworldly charm of Giola (Aphrodite’s Tear – Thassos’ most photographed location). Here lies a majestic natural pool nestled beside the sea within a rocky, oval formation with walls reaching up to eight metres. According to legend, Zeus created the pool for the goddess’ bath.

Historically, however, the significance of Thassos lay not in its seas but in its land and mineral riches: gold, silver, iron, lead, zinc, and the renowned Thas-

THE KOUROS of Thassos – a masterpiece of ancient Greek sculpture.

Thassos’ rugged, untamed terrain features a 115-kilometre coastline boasting pristine, expansive stretches of golden and white sand beaches leading into crystal-clear emerald waters.

HISTORY, spirituality and maritime charm are in the ancient Agora, the Monastery of the Archangel, and Limenas.

sian white marble. These supported a pros perous historical era evidenced by surviving ancient monuments scattered across the island, including the Acropolis, the harbour, the Agora, the sanctuaries of Hercules, Poseidon and Dionysus, the quarries, and the 4th-century theatre. Many con centrate around Limenas, the capital. There, the Archaeological Museum houses the famed sculp ture, Kouros of Thassos, a grand statue standing 3.5 metres tall, dating back to 600 BCE. The Thassian House located within the Kalogeriko, a historical structure in the Old Port of Limenas, shines as a cultural trove showcasing photographic archives and numerous artefacts representing the daily life of a Thassian household from the previous century.

Potos, Limenaria, Skala Maries, and Skala Potamia are coastal villages known for their distinctive architecture. In Potos, perched on a cliff’s edge, the Archangel Michael Monastery (12th century) appears to float above the sea, creating a striking visual spectacle. In Limenaria, the Palataki, once the headquarters of Speidel, a German company, sitting atop a hill overlooking the harbour, is one of the most remarkable buildings of the early 20th century in the Aegean.

GR ΕΝ

Ο ΚΑΤΑΡΡΑ ΚΤΗΣ

του

THE WATERFALL of Theologos, the picturesque village of Panagia, and the historic Palataki of Limenaria.

ΕΝ GR The mountainous hinterland is dotted with equally picturesque villages. Panagia, the former capital of the island, exudes charm with its stone mansions, winding cobblestone streets, old plane trees, and babbling streams evoking a scene from a cinematic masterpiece. In days past, men sought blessings at the Springs of Love, praying to God for sons. The traditional water-fed olive oil mill of Sotirelis produced oil until 2007 and is now a museum. The verdant Potamia offers a scenic mountaineering trail leading to the summit of Ipsarion, Thassos’ highest peak at 1,206 metres, commanding panoramic views of the island. Theologos is famed for its old arched stone bridge, twin cascading waterfalls emptying into natural pools, and delectable local cuisine cherished by residents and visitors alike.

EXPLORE

AT THE GOLDEN HOUR of sunset, merchant ships sail leisurely on short and long voyages.

A pervasive sense of relaxed rhythm, of time standing still, and the bliss of summer can be felt everywhere, from the beaches of Thessaloniki to the shores of the most secluded islands.

SANI/IKOS GROUP

A journey towards sustainable hospitality under the Mediterranean sun.

GR EN

The Mediterranean, a region of diverse ecosystems, unique natural beauty, and rich cultural heritage. Amidst its stunning landscapes and ancient wonders, the Sani/Ikos Group is a beacon of sustainable luxury hospitality. With 12 award-winning beachfront resorts in Greece and Spain, under the Sani Resort and Ikos Resorts brandnames, the Group has been redefining sustainable travel. Through the Sani Green and Ikos Green ESG programmes, it is committed to environmental protection and promoting eco-conscious travel. By 2030, Sani/Ikos Group aims to achieve net zero emissions and in 2024 will fully eliminate single-use plastics and waste-to-landfill through strict processes, investments in new technologies, systematic personnel training, and innovative initiatives. Collaborating with experts and NGOs to protect key Mediterranean ecosystems, including pine forests, wetlands, marine biodiversity and pollinator colonies, the Group invites travellers to help preserve this unique natural world. Recognised internationally, the Group has received certifications and accolades, including “World’s Leading Luxury Green Resort” at the World Travel Awards.

Lindos, the birthplace of Cleobulus, one of the seven sages of antiquity, captivates with its beauty and rich history.

Text: Makos Tsimetas, Photos: Perikles Merakos

BLUE HORIZONS

GR EN “Close your eyes,” my mother would say, “count to three, and then open them!” This was how we, as children, first glimpsed Lindos as it emerged from the final turn in the road: timeless and majestic, brimming with treasures, featuring winding alleys, hidden little churches, steps descending to the sea, and a real castle. And this is how you will see it, too.

Lift your gaze to the ancient Acropolis, the highest point in Lindos and its most significant landmark. Step into history as you explore the impressive Temple of Athena, a renowned sanctuary from the Hellenistic and Roman periods. Visit the portico, the propylaea, the relief of the stern of a warship, and the church of St John. All are safeguarded by fortifications built by the Knights of the Order of St John. In 1307, they established their headquarters in the castle there.

Afterwards, take a dip at Lindos’ main beach, known for its towering rock, pristine white sands, and crystal-clear waters. Alternatively, stroll to the picturesque bay of Agios Pavlos, below the chapel, a photographer’s favourite. Make sure to arrive early to

view of the traditional settlement of Lindos south of Rhodes.

rhodescolab.com

A unique holistic, sustainable transformation is taking place, aiming to make Rhodes the world's ﬁrst sustainable destination! We are working in Rhodes towards a circular economy, protecting biodiversity, eliminating single-use plastic, aiming for climate neutrality, and much more. Join us today and be part of our plan to achieve a sustainable future for all.

Learn more about The Rhodes Co-Lab on our website: rhodescolab.com

HISTORY and tradition permeate through Lindos, from the Acropolis to the cobblestone alleys.

EN secure a spot, as its stunning views are highly sought after. If hunger strikes, reserve a table at Mavrikos. It is not only renowned in Rhodes but has won worldwide acclaim as featured in The New York Times. Other excellent choices include the Lindos Yacht Club Kirtos, set right on the sand, and the award-winning César Meze Bar, with its rooftop terrace offering unparalleled views.

In the afternoon, lose yourself in the narrow streets of the preserved settlement, exploring the shops while enjoying an ice cream from Gelo Blu. Alternatively, stop by the bars on the street and relax on their terraces, complete with comfortable cushions, and sip a cool cocktail while watching the crowds go by. As night falls, the area’s two big clubs, the Amphitheater and Arches Plus Open Air, await you for a night of revelry till dawn.

EXPLORE

IN SKALA KALLONIS, a jewel of a fishing village in Lesvos, fishing boats ply the seas. Their catch includes fresh fish and Papalina (sardines), the best in Greece. From early morning until dusk, when the sea and sky merge into a silver background, there is always a fisherman sailing in the calm waters. No one else has access to such tranquillity.

MEDITERRANEAN COSMOS

το πολυκατάστημα attica

designer brands όπως: HUGO BOSS, TED BAKER, Dsquared2 και πολλά ακόμα–, Zara, Kiko Milano, Lacoste, Public και Under Armour Επιπλέον, διαθέτει 31 εστιατόρια και cafés, ανάμεσά

τους τo La Pasteria, το TGI Fridays, το Cinnabon, 11

αίθουσες προβολών Village Cinemas, escape rooms και άνετο parking.

Παράλληλα,

όπως lockers,

Lamda

The largest shopping centre in Northern Greece is located in a short distance from the city of Thessaloniki and just 5 km from the airport and it is a meeting point for the residents of Northern Greece as well as Southeastern Europe. It has 200 stores including attica department store –where you can find designer brands such as: HUGO BOSS, TED BAKER, Dsquared2 and many other–, Zara, Kiko Milano, Lacoste, Public and Under Armour.

Additionally, it provides 31 restaurants, cafés, including La Pasteria, TGI Fridays, Cinnabon, 11 screen multiplex Village Cinemas, escape rooms and a comfortable parking.

Moreover, it offers various services such as lockers, charging points for electric vehicles, and tax-free shopping, making every visit special.

Throughout the year, Mediterranean Cosmos, member of the Lamda Development group, offers a complete shopping and entertainment experience for the whole family!

From Agios Therapontas to Surada, the magnificent mansions of Mytilene take you back in time

URBAN ELEG A NCE

Text: Kallia Kastani, Photos: Perikles Merakos

THE FAMOUS MANSIONS showcase Mytilene’s economic and cultural prosperity in the 19th century.

GR EN In the writings of Odysseus Elytis, Lesvos, his homeland, is a poetic and dreamlike place. A part of this dreamy landscape is the mansions of Mytilene, signs of a period of unprecedented economic prosperity with roots in the 18th and early 19th centuries. Largely due to the advent of the Industrial Revolution, which saw the introduction of modern, steam-powered mills on the island, the production and trade of olive oil flourished. Concurrently, the industries of soap making and shipping experienced significant growth. Mytilene’s port transformed into a pivotal transit hub, with laden ships departing for destinations such as Constantinople, Smyrna, Alexandria, Marseille, and Trieste. A plethora of consulates, banks, and trading houses emerged, signalling the flow of capital and the movement of people.

In 1905, despite Mytilene’s modest population of 17,000 residents, the city boasted a three-storey hotel, 26 restaurants, two cinemas, two theatres, a chamber of commerce, a hospital, and a French school. This environment fostered the rise of a distinguished bourgeoisie characterised by its openness to the West, which infused it with fresh values and aesthetic trends – a cultural exchange reflected in their lifestyle,

THE ELEGANT FA Ç ADES, intricate decorative details, sweeping marble staircases, and well-tended gardens highlight the refined aesthetics of the island’s bourgeoisie in the 19th century.

GR EN art, and architecture. As emblems of prestige, the mansions of Mytilene incorporate many of European elements, borrowing from styles such as Baroque, Rococo, Neo-Gothic, Renaissance, and Neoclassical, or a harmonious blend of these influences. These grand country villas and stately homes, with their expansive, meticulously maintained gardens, marble adornments, columns, gables, sweeping staircases, painted ceilings, frescoes, and intricate carvings, encapsulate a golden dream of cosmopolitanism.

το «αρχο-

ντικό του Ελύτη»– είναι ένα από τα μέγαρα με μεγάλη

The Alepoudelis mansion, affectionately known as The Mansion of Elytis, has a storied past. The Nobel Prize-winning poet, born into a well-to-do family, would spend his summers in Mytilene at his uncle Thrasyvoulos Alepoudeli’s country estate. This elegant neoclassical seaside residence was constructed in 1910.

Another significant residence where Elytis stayed is the mansion of Loukas Goutos, a member of an

OF THE STATELY HOMES are built in Neo-Gothic and Neoclassical styles.

The mansions incorporate many of European elements, borrowing from styles such as Baroque, Rococo, Νeo-Gothic, Renaissance, and Neoclassical, or a harmonious blend of these influences.

PAINTED CEILINGS, stunning frescoes, and pediments decorate most of the city’s mansions.

GR EN old Mytilenean family that amassed a great fortune through trade. The mansion, designed by renowned architect Ignatios Vafeiadis, took two years to construct (1909-1911).

Since 1904, the imposing mansion of Alexandros Vostanis, a descendant of a significant landowning family of Lesvos, has remained unchanged to this day, both internally and externally, testifying to the grandeur and elegance of another era.

Situated on an expansive 20-acre plot at Akrotiri, the summer residence of Dr Michael Sourlagas was a testament to his lofty social standing, a reflection of his family’s ownership of one of the largest tanneries in the Balkans.

Lastly, the striking Neo-Gothic mansion of Apostolos Efstratios, famously known as The Red Tower of Mytilene, was constructed in 1905, likely based on the designs of a foreign architect and funded by the substantial dowry from the owner’s marriage to Meropi Christofidi, daughter of a wealthy merchant of the diaspora, amounting to 30,000 gold pounds! No extravagance was spared in its creation; even the renowned red bricks of the Tower were custom-ordered from Marseilles.

THE CAVE OF THE NYM PHS

Melissani cave, the geological wonder of Kefalonia, fascinates with its unearthly beauty.

Text: Kallia Kastani, Photos: Perikles Merakos

The cave’s nomenclature pays homage to the nymph Melissanthi who, as legend conveys, plunged into the lake’s depths after the god Pan spurned her affections.

BOATMEN guide visitors through this unique underground world.

ΕΝ The cave of Melissani is a mere two kilometres northwest of Sami, and is rightfully considered among Kefalonia’s most awe-inspiring spectacles. An artificial entrance and tunnel adorned with striking, 20,000-year-old sculpted stalactites, unveils a lake that was once underground, whose turquoise waters shimmer with an ethereal radiance. The light cascading through the roof’s aperture across the encompassing walls is akin to a dance of thousands of fairies. Moreover, the cave’s nomenclature pays homage to the nymph Melissanthi who, as legend conveys, plunged into the lake’s depths after the god Pan spurned her affections. This cave remained undiscovered until 1951, when Ioannis Petrochilos chanced upon it. In 1964, archaeologist Spyros Marinatos uncovered a trove of 3rd and 4th-century BCE votive offerings on the tiny islet situated amid the lake’s waters. Amongst these treasured finds were a figurine of the god Pan, as well as a clay plate portraying nymphs in dance, clear indications that this site once served as a hallowed place of ancient worship.

Archaeologist Mariana Kavroulaki creates a gastronomic experience for travellers exploring Crete

Text & Photos: Stefanos Gogos and Maria Passarivaki

ANCIENT SY M POSIU M

CERAMIC replicas of archaeological finds are used in cooking and serving.

In her home nestled just beyond Chania’s centre, amidst olive groves, vineyards, and a courtyard blooming with flowers and aromatic plants, Mariana hosts symposia recounting culinary tales inspired by the flavours of ancient Crete. These workshops are immersive experiences, encouraging participants to actively engage in recreating ancient dishes using traditional methods. Τhe rustic ambience of the countryside sets the stage for the culinary feast that awaits, an immersion in culture spotlighting the island’s rich gastronomic heritage intertwined with ΠΕΡ

ΕΝ For many, gastronomy is synonymous with indulgence. For others, it is a complete art form that commences with food preparation and culminates in its presentation. Yet, for a select few, it is a navigational map guiding us back through time, allowing us to reconnect with our roots through flavours and aromas. Among these select few is Mariana Kavroulaki, a Cretan archaeologist and researcher of Greek culinary history for whom gastronomy signifies a journey and an avenue to explore the narratives and customs behind each flavour. Above all, for her, it is about sharing around a table.

ΕΝ its historical narrative – a true celebration of Cretan culture.

The day begins early as Mariana carefully selects ingredients from her garden and from local producers, ensuring their freshness and quality. In the heart of nature, simple yet precise hospitality unfolds as a table and chairs are arranged. Nearby, Mariana’s husband helps light the fire while she meticulously prepares ingredients like nuts, figs and herbs, gradually adding them to intricately crafted replicas of ancient ceramics provided by potter Giorgis Dalamvelas from Margarites of Rethymnon, a village known for its traditional pottery. Cooking slowly and methodically on fig leaves, the meal takes shape as Mariana narrates the story behind each ingredient on the table. There is bread and eggs and dishes such as handmade multigrain pies, an ancient spread made from goat cheese and garlic, lentils with leeks, flame-baked onions, pork baked in dough, mussels with grated, aged graviera cheese, and plenty of wine.

As visitors savour their first bites, Mariana weaves tales about the origins of the dishes and their pro-

MARIANA uses fresh ingredients from her gardens to create dishes inspired by the Minoan era.

ΦΑΚΕΣ

THE MENU includes lentils with leeks, onions in the fire, and meat wrapped in dough.

The rustic ambience of the countryside sets the stage for the culinary feast that awaits, an immersion in culture spotlighting the island’s rich gastronomic heritage.

found significance, touching on history, commerce, society, and politics. Her storytelling blends facts with personal anecdotes, fostering a sense of intimacy and connection with the place. She recounts how the Minoans, drawing upon the abundant bounty of the Cretan land and sea, crafted a flavourful diet teeming with nutrients, laying the groundwork for the modern Mediterranean diet. She emphasises the pivotal role of olive oil in Minoan cuisine, which was used in large quantities, as well as the consumption of ample fruits, vegetables, legumes, and nuts. She highlights the importance of the sea to them, which provided a wealth of protein through fish, octopus, squid, and shellfish. Above all, she emphatically insists that with just one bite, you can forge a tangible link to the past.

An authentic Greek tradition that persists in resisting the passage of time, comes to life in the shipyard of Agios Isidoros in Samos

Text: Christina Katsantoni, Photos: Perikles Merakos

A NAUTICA L HERITA GE

Old tools, abandoned buildings, and weathered hulls basking in the sun serve as remnants of eras long past, when the air hummed with the maritime shouts of Heave!, Slack!, Steady! and Haul Away! – the last command to guide the completed vessel into the open sea. Yet, amidst the robustness of wood and varnish, the swirling clouds of sawdust, and the nascent boats awaiting their final shape, an ongoing narrative emerges. Though devoid of past grandeur, the saga persists, echoing the sea’s breadth and the fragrance of pines ever poised for the next voyage.

Samos has been a significant naval and shipbuilding centre in the Aegean since ancient times. Its more recent era began around 1720 when the first boat was constructed in Marathokampos. The coves and small ports of the island each had a shipyard, all renowned for their well-crafted and durable wooden vessels made from Samian pine. The shipyard of Agios Isidoros is the island’s sole remaining one, carrying on this long-standing tradition as one of the oldest in Greece that is still active.

is one of the last Samian shipwrights continuing the craft in the bay of Agios Isidoros.

THE SHIPYARD of Agios Isidoros keeps longstanding traditions alive in Samos.

In a lush location near the sea, skeletal remains narrate tales of boats once loaded with vines, wines, and hides that ploughed the Aegean, supporting the island’s economy. These sites permeated with the passion of self-taught shipwrights who were craftsmen and sailors, treating each vessel as a living entity. With responsibility and hard manual labour, they would send them off on the waves, certain they would withstand the seas. The shipyard was a vital part of the local community. It had its own language and legends. A particular celebration was the launching ceremony of each new boat, accompanied by blessings and festive music.

The dances did not last. Since the early 20th century, the replacement of wood with iron and plastic, along with industrialisation, put an end to the heyday of traditional shipyards. Most in Greece have now become deserted. In 2013, the art of shipbuilding became part of the Intangible Cultural Heritage. But as long as there are craftsmen, the final Haul Away! has not yet been heard.

ΕΝ

In Koukounaries of Skiathos, the sheer natural beauty of its emerald waters and deeply green pines surpasses its reputation.

Text: Christina Katsantoni, Photos: Constantinos Sofikitis

PA R A DISE

ON E A RTH

KOUKOUNARIES is consistently featured on lists of the world’s best beaches.

ΕΝ “Oh, how far and endless this sandy shore stretches! When I reflect on my journey –alas, my progress in life– I always remember this sandy shore…” No matter how many years have passed since the time of Alexandros Papadiamantis, no matter how much everything has changed, this endless sandy beach, glistening under the sun, framed by a lush forest and the blue Aegean, is unforgettable.

Koukounaries is not only the most famous beach in Skiathos but perhaps the most photographed landscape on the island. It’s consistently listed among the world’s best. At first sight, it evokes profound emotion, transcending the clichés of “golden sands” and “emerald waters.” One of its defining features is the lush pine forest that extends along its entire length, right behind the fine sandy shore. Beyond the forest lies the Strofilia lagoon, where you can enjoy walks among swans, herons, and cormorants. Easily accessible and fully organised, it also offers a section for those who wish to lay their towel on the sand under the trees. Enthusiasts don’t stray far from the beach before they indulge in a magical sunset.

Pelion beckons with its alluring images, hues and scents every day, all year round.

A Blend of Mountain and Sea

Τext: Eleni Psyhouli, Photos: Perikles Merakos

BLEND of the mountain with the sea makes Pelion

GR EN

Pelion is a mountain. But it’s a playful mountain, a landscape that doesn’t intimidate with its height and ruggedness. Pelion is also the sea, a sea as calm as a lake, yet as tempestuous as the Aegean. Pelion is a place blessed by the gods of all eras. On foot, you can explore its intricate landscape without tiring, without being an experienced hiker. With Volos as your starting point, it’s worth taking the train. But not just any train. The Moutzouris is a unique historical train in Greece that will take you on a magical journey from Lechonia to Milies. It climbs slowly. The tracks meander through lush vegetation. On your right is the sea. It passes Ano Gatzea, Agia Triada, and a series of beautiful stone arched bridges, the route once taken by farmers descending to their work in Volos.

Ascending, the vista is awe-inspiring, with the entirety of the Pagasetic Gulf and the plain of Lechonia sprawling at your feet until you arrive at the picturesque station of Milies. From there, you’ll be led on cobblestone paths to stately mansions adorned with verdant blossoming courtyards surrounding a striking square. And if you venture even further to the villages of Vyzitsa and Pinakates, you will find that

THE RENOWNED train ascends the beautiful slopes of Pelion mountain daily.

time seems to stand still amidst the opulent homes from Pelion’s economically prosperous 20th century. If you ride the Moutzouris back to Lechonia, it’s definitely worth exploring the mediaeval tower houses and the Egyptian-style neoclassical residences built by affluent Egyptian merchants. Take a moment to enjoy a coffee in the square before traversing the mountain to reach the sea. Hopefully, you’ve packed your swimsuit because, in Pelion, it’s all about the swift transition from mountain to seaside living, from indulging in wild boar stew and pies beneath the ancient plane trees of the square to savouring tsipouro and meze by the shore.

By car, the northern route ascends from Volos to the mountain’s peak, then descends, meandering through Portaria, Makrinitsa, and Tsagarada before reaching the Aegean Sea. Pelion is a mountainous region adorned with singularly crafted mansions, charming squares, and verdant foliage. Below lie renowned beaches such as Mylopotamos, Plaka, Agioi Saranta, Fakistra, and Chorefto. The interplay between the mountain and the sea is captivating. Access to Pelion is easy, either by a 30-minute boat ride from Skiathos or by car from Thessaloniki.

The abundant water and fertile volcanic soil of the island deliver pure and authentic Mediterranean flavours to your plate.

Text: Eleni Psyhouli, Photos: George Drakopoulos Food Styling: Makis Georgiades, Styling: Elena Jeffrey

A TASTE OF KOS

Katina Pie

Tomato Spoon Sweet

1 2 3 4 5

ημέρας λέγεται «εβρέικο» και είναι η

στραπατσάδα της Κω.

Φέτες κρεμμυδιού σοτάρονται σε ελαιόλαδο, στο τηγάνι, μετά μπαίνει τριμμένη η ολόγλυκια ντομάτα και, μόλις δέσει η σάλτσα, προστίθενται

χτυπημένα τα αβγά. Μια ομελέτα

Different cultures throughout history have injected the cuisine of Kos with rich flavours and elaborate delicacies.

Pasha Makarouna

One of the island’s most unique specialities is Pasha Makarouna, a pie resembling Su böreği, a renowned Turkish street food. Kos’ iteration boasts a more distinct flavour and preparation process. Homemade phyllo, which requires skill to roll out, is layered in a baking pan with minced meat and dry mizithra cheese in between. The pie is then drenched with meat broth and baked in a wood-fired oven. The result resembles Pastitsio in appearance. Pasha Makarouna is traditionally crafted on Tyrini Sunday, marking the commencement of Lent.

Katina Pie

If you happen to visit on August 15th, you’ll have the chance to savour Katina, the pie that marks the island’s grand celebration of Panagia. On the eve of the festivity, as wood-burning ovens come to life, neighbourhood housewives gather to craft the pie. Using homemade dough worked with a thin wooden rolling pin, they fill large round pans with a mixture of freshly beaten eggs, sautéed onions, and Posia cheese. Adding oil lends crispiness to the dough, while baking it in a wood-fired oven imparts a subtly smoky fragrance.

Pork or Goat With Bulgur

As summer draws to a close, resourceful housewives prepare a year’s supply of bulgur by combining pre-cooked wheat with sour milk. It’s sun-dried and carefully stored in cellars, ready to star in countless recipes. A staple in home kitchens and traditional tavernas, bulgur is both wholesome and inexpensive. In Kos, you’ll relish dishes like pork and goat paired with bulgur, where the meat simmers in a fragrant white sauce infused with cumin, while the bulgur absorbs the rich flavours of the broth, resulting in a truly satisfying meal.

Evraiko

The quintessential summer dish is known as Evraiko, the signature Strapatsada (Greek scrambled eggs) of Kos. It begins with onion slices gently sautéed in olive oil until translucent, then enhanced with grated tomato. As the sauce thickens, beaten eggs are incorporated, resulting in a simple yet flavourful omelette that beautifully showcases the island’s tomatoes. Known for their firm flesh, elongated shape, minimal moisture, earthy aroma, and unparalleled sweetness, these tomatoes reach their peak basking in the sun during the summer months.

Tomato Spoon Sweet

The tomatoes of Kos aren’t merely a staple in summer salads. They’re also crafted into a unique spoon sweet infused with flavours of cinnamon and white almonds. A visit to the island wouldn’t be complete without taking home a jar which, come winter, will evoke the essence of Greek summers. Whether enjoyed on their own, finely chopped in cheesecakes, added to panna cottas, drizzled over ice cream, or paired with breakfast yoghurt, these tomatoes are perfect for any occasion.

στο ανατολικό άκρο της Αγοράς, οικοδομείται από τον ηγεμό

A museum in the heart of Athens holds the treasures of the Αncient Agora.

Text: Georgia Drakaki, Photos: Yiannis Giannelos

Echoes of Ancient Athens

EN In the shadow of the Sacred Rock of the Acropolis, the Agora of Athens arose in the 6th century BCE. An entire world unfolded inside, bustling with many social, cultural, religious, and political activities. Athenians came to meet friends, listen to orators, catch up on the day’s news, shop, vote, pray, be entertained, or simply wander through. Around 150 BCE, at the eastern edge of the Agora, Attalos II, ruler of Pergamon, constructed the Stoa of Attalos. This truly regal gift housed 42 shops on its two floors, serving simultaneously as a place to meet and stroll. In 267 CE, the Stoa was destroyed in the Herulian Invasion and later became part of the Late Roman Wall, abandoned and forgotten.

It regained its former glory with the restoration carried out in the 1950s by the American School of Classical Studies in Athens. Since then, it has operated as a museum, hosting exhibits revealing the birth and functioning of Democracy and offering a view of the history of the Αncient Agora, as most of the artefacts

MADE from limestone and marble quarried from Mount Pentelicus, the Stoa was the largest covered marketplace in ancient times.

THE AGORA of Athens was the centre of the city during the Classical and Hellenistic periods.

ΕΝ come from excavations there. Of special interest is the marble stele adorned with a relief showing the People (Demos) of Athens being crowned by Democracy and inscribed with a law against tyranny. A significant section features red and black-figure pottery, works of vase painters, everyday utensils, lamps, figurines, and a few pieces of jewellery and coins. The exhibition is complemented by small-scale sculptures replicating works of renowned ancient artists and marble portrait busts from the Roman period.

To visit, it’s a four-minute walk from Thissio train station and only two minutes from Monastiraki station. Surrounding the area are trees, neoclassical buildings, and a small green oasis offering an unparalleled sense of escape to ancient Greece.

Indulge in a refreshing swim at stunning Vatera or Tsonia Beach, famed for its red sand.

THE INSIDER

Tips & tricks. The Ultimate Guide for your Destination

Get lost in the island’s petrified forest, one of the world’s largest.

Enjoy the unique view of the Man’Katsa waterfall 1 5 2 6 3 7 4 8

Stroll through the picturesque alleys of Molyvos, hailed as the most beautiful village in Lesvos with its mansions and imposing castle.

Try local delicacies such as Louloudia (zucchini flowers), Giouzlemedes (fried cheese pies), and Sougania (stuffed onions)

Visit the thermal springs of Eftalou. Their temperature ranges from 43 to 46 degrees Celsius.

Tragonisi & the Monk Seals

Don’t overlook festivals where wine flows freely, along with lively dancing and boundless fun.

Visit the Tériade Museum of Modern Art to see works by Matisse and Picasso.

A mere mile off the eastern coast of Mykonos lies Tragonisi. This island boasts glistening pebbles, stunning caves with turquoise waters, and can be explored by private boat or tourist excursions. Devoid of inhabitants, Tragonisi is home to the Panagia chapel, one perched on rocks and which hosts an annual festival on the 11th of June in honour of Saints Barnabas and Bartholomew (exclusively attended by men). It is a true sanctuary.

ΑLSO A HAVEN for divers, its underwater caves are teeming with vibrant marine life, including yellow sea anemones and Mediterranean monk seals.

SANTORINI

ΚΡΗΤΗ / CRETE ΣΑΝΤΟΡΙΝΗ /

On the Beach

Perivolos: This beach offers black sand, crystal clear waters, a cosmopolitan ambience, opportunities for exciting water sports, and delectable dining options. Red Beach: The epitome of a volcanic beach, every element, from the rocks to the sand, is dyed a striking red hue, sculpting an unparalleled landscape. Kamari Beach: One of the most popular beaches on the island with fine black sand and turquoise waters, there are many options for water sports and fun. Perissa: Ebony sands and pristine waters, this location is also home to the island’s sole water park. Monolithos: This beach boasts fine black sand, shallow waters, and is suitable for families.

What to Buy

1 2 3 4 5 6

Rusks: Sourdough, whole wheat, barley, crunchy, kneaded, wood-fired, and absolutely delicious.

Wine: Crete is home to one of the most historic vineyards in Europe which produces wonderful wines for every taste.

Olive oil: Cretan oil is renowned as one of the best in the world. It is kept in glass containers, adds flavour to any food and is good for your health.

Honey: Thyme, oregano, acacia, pine and many medicinal herbs are harvested by bees, ensuring excellent quality honey.

Kserotigano: A fritters with honey treat favoured by locals at gatherings, equally scrumptious from artisanal bakeries or pastry shops.

Raki: This timeless Cretan drink is warmly offered by locals as a welcoming gesture. A bottle in your fridge will never go to waste.

VLYCHADA: This organised beach stands out as one of the most stunning, featuring white volcanic rocks and catering to those seeking a tranquil escape from crowds. Naturists are attracted to its far end.

7 8

Skioufichta Μacaroni: Fresh Cretan pasta served with red sauce or Anthotyro cheese.

Apaki: moked pork, a local delicacy, is marinated in herbs with olive oil and vinegar and boasts a distinct flavour.

KABAΛΑ/KAVALA

6 Museums with Countless Treasures

DISCOVER the history and culture of Kavala through its museums.

1 2 3 4 5 6

Archaeological Museum of Kavala

Considered one of the most important museums of its kind in Greece, its core exhibition –NeapolisChristoupolisKavala– focuses on the city’s timeless presence via its monuments.

Mohammed Ali Museum

The enchanting house of Mohammed Ali, where the renowned ruler of Egypt was born and raised, transfers visitors back to 18th-century Kavala. This distinguished building stands as a prime example of period Ottoman architecture in Greece.

Archaeological Museum of Philippi

The museum features two exhibition areas dedicated to the excavated treasures from the ancient city. Visitors can seamlessly combine their museum experience with a trip to the UNESCO World Heritage Site, the Archaeological Site of Philippi.

Tobacco Museum

This contemporary thematic industrial museum boasts a rich array of exhibits. From artefacts to archival materials, it delves into the cultivation, production, commercial processing, and industrial applications of tobacco.

/ ZAKYNTHOS

Uniquely Zakynthian

Presley.

Waxworks Museum

The museum showcases wax figures of notable Greeks like Odysseus Elytis, Yannis Tsarouchis, Maria Callas, and Melina Mercouri, alongside iconic figures from the global art scene such as Michael Jackson and Elvis Presley.

Olive and Oil Museum

The sole museum of its kind in Eastern Macedonia and Thrace spans three acres featuring a contemporary exhibition venue with an open-air theatre, lush greenery, and a meticulously restored old olive mill complete with its original mechanical apparatus.

The following delicacies are exclusively from Zakynthos, and you’ll want them all to yourself: water onions (known for their sweet and juicy flavour, ideal in salads), Frissa (a large rusk), Broccolina (a type of broccoli), tiny olives, Verdea wine (which bears the mark of Protected Geographical Indication), large lemons (the skins are eaten with sugar), Ntopio (local oil cheese), and mini strawberries (usually served with ice cream).

ΚΕΡΚΥΡΑ/CORFU

Cheers to Corfu!

ΚΕΦΑΛΟΝΙΑ/ΚΕFALONIA

Barcarolle: Α Fairy Tale Custom

Corfu is unique in that it’s one of two European countries that produce kumquats (Sicily is the other). This citrus variety was introduced to the island by the Brutish in 1850. Today, it’s the primary ingredient in kumquat liqueur, renowned for its bittersweet and flavourful profile. Savoured across the island, it’s served chilled with crushed ice as an aperitif or sipped as a digestive. It adds a delightful touch to fruit salads and lends its essence to homemade confections. It finds its way into jellies, jams and spoon sweets.

EVERY YEAR at the end of August, the quaint village of Assos comes alive, reviving the cherished tradition of Barcarolle. From a fishing boat, a grand orchestra serenades the crowd with melodies from Kefalonia and the Ionian Isles. Meanwhile, singers aboard illuminated vessels sing along. From every corner of Assos, young and old join in with their voices in harmonious unity. The glow of lanterns and the burst of fireworks add to the enchantment.

TRY TSITSIB Ί RA, a local soft drink made with fresh lemon juice, water, sugar and grated ginger.

Immerse yourself in the splendour of Aselinos for an entire day. Set amidst an exotic landscape, this beach features a blend of sand, pebbles, and deep crystal-clear waters. Untouched natural beauty abounds, and if you’re an enthusiast of the underwater world, remember to bring your diving gear to explore the depths. For the ultimate relaxation, simply lay down a towel or relax at the taverna nearby.

If you decide to visit the wonderful monasteries of the island, all closely linked to the history, faith and customs of Skiathos, discreet garments are essential, translating into long skirts for women and trousers for men.

ΡΟΔΟΣ/RHODES

The Numbers

‣ 1,351 plants have been documented in Rhodes.

‣ 1,100 metres in length, the mediaeval walls of the city stretch from the Cannon Gate to the Gate of St John, offering a panoramic vista of the mediaeval city of Rhodes.

‣ 4 wonderful cruises sail from the island of Rhodes to Symi, Tilos, Kastelorizo, and Chalki.

‣ 12 walking routes reveal the island’s most beautiful spots and well-kept secrets.

‣ 18 museums cover the history and culture of Rhodes from antiquity to the present day. These include well-known attractions like the Archaeological Museum, the Palace of the Grand Master of the Knights and the Aquarium, as well as unique museums like the Museum of the Bee and the Museum of Toys.

‣ 30 metres was the length of the Melekouni, a traditional sweet from Rhodes that earned a prestigious place in the Guinness World Records. This delectable treat is often savoured at engagements, weddings and christenings.

‣ 42 villages are on the island. Each one harbours secluded and stunning landscapes away from populated areas. Nestled within are quaint tavernas serving traditional dishes where you can savour Rhodian wine, once celebrated across the southeastern Mediterranean.

‣ 13 festivals (at least!) take place every summer with music, dancing, local food, lots of wine and open-air markets. 1.215

1,215 METRES is the altitude of Attaviros, which reigns as the highest peak among the Dodecanese islands. Its summit offers a stunning 360-degree vista showcasing Rhodes in all its splendour.

/KOS 283

112

ΛΕΥΚΑΔΑ/LEFKADA

THE SECRET RECIPE

Associated with joy, Lefkadian Sumada is garnished with mint and always savoured chill.

1 kilo of peeled almonds

10 bitter almonds

2 kg of sugar

2 tablespoons of rose water

DIRECTIONS: Soak almonds in boiling water, peel and blend them with a glass of water until they become a paste. Carefully strain. Add 4-5 glasses of water and rinse the almond porridge thoroughly. Add the sugar and rose water. Boil it over low heat until the mixture thickens, forming a milky thick syrup. Once cool, place in bottles and store in the refrigerator. Sumada is served in a glass, diluted (1:5 ratio) with ice water.

ΘΕΣΣΑΛΟΝΙΚΗ/THESSALONIKI

Legendary Desserts!

TRIGONA PANORAMATOS: Originating in Panorama, this delectable, crunchy, syrupy pastry cone brimming with velvety custard cream dissolves on your tongue and is the city’s quintessential dessert. Its accolade in the Taste Atlas in the baked goods category as the second-best pastry globally is well-deserved. TSOUREKI: Encountered in every bakery and pastry shop in the city, its irresistible aroma will tempt your taste buds. Whether plain or filled with chestnuts and chocolate, one thing’s for sure – you’ll undoubtedly reach for a second slice! ARMENOVIL: A chilled parfait with a velvety soft texture and filled with crunchy meringues and caramelised almonds, it’s often served with a thick chocolate sauce. BOUGATSA WITH CUSTARD CREAM: Delight in a combination of crispy pastry and airy cream dusted with a sprinkling of icing sugar and cinnamon and savoured solo or with a steaming cup of coffee. This treat retains its crispiness for two days if left uncovered. ANATOLIAN DESSERTS: If you’re craving Middle Eastern flavours, visit one of the city’s pastry shops to indulge in an array of delicacies such as Baklava, Knafeh (a traditional Arabic pastry), Kazan Dipi (caramelised milk pudding), Ashure (a sweet pudding with grains, fresh fruit, dried fruit, and nuts), Saragli (a pastry with pistachios, almonds and walnuts), Kataifi (a golden, crispy pastry soaked in honey), Soubiyet (similar to baklava), as well as a variety of puddings and Halva available in countless tempting variations.

The Island of Orchids

In Greece, orchids thrive solely on the island of Samos, where two specialised cultivation facilities operate. Their exclusivity is due to the island’s optimal climate and soil conditions, as well as to the individuals who pioneered its successful cultivation.

Fraport Greece welcomes you to one of the 14 Incredible Greek destinations it serves.

14 Welcome

Your travels start here: Fraport Greece’s 14 upgraded and new airports are now a reality.

A New Era for Travel in Greece

Fraport Greece delivers redeveloped and modernised airports ahead of schedule.

New services, more comfort and more choices for passengers

Three months ahead of schedule, Fraport Greece has completed a major four-year infrastructure development program at the 14 regional airports. Thus, Fraport Greece delivered redeveloped, safe and future-oriented airports that provide new services, greater comfort, and more amenities to Greek and international travellers from around the world.

Fraport Greece launched the airport development program in April 2017, in tandem with the start-up of its concession for managing eleven island and three mainland airports across Greece. Despite various challenges, construction works advanced

1. The iconic new terminal at “Makedonia” airport.

2. The new check-in area at Kefalonia airport.

3. Aerial view of the new terminal at Corfu airport.

επενδυτικό πρόγραμμα, ύψους 440 εκατ. ευρώ της Fraport Greece, μεταμόρφωσε

successfully throughout the first three years, including peak summer months, and overcame many difficulties and challenges during the pandemic. In January 2021, Fraport Greece concluded the last of the construction works for the 14 airports – well ahead of the April 2021 contractual deadline.

Fraport Greece’s innovative €440 million airport development program has significantly transformed these airports. In particular, Fraport Greece has delivered five brand new terminals, expanded and modernised five existing terminals, and upgraded four other terminals. Construction projects at airside operational areas of the regional airports included renovating 12 runways, improving ramp areas, and constructing and renovating 12 fire stations. All of the airports have also been equipped with new state-of-the-art baggage handling and security detection systems.

Construction projects were completed first at the airports of Zakynthos, Chania (Crete) and Kavala. At Zakynthos, refurbishing and remodeling the terminal made it possible to increase the number of check-in counters and security checkpoints by 35% and 150%, respectively. The terminal at Chania was completely modernised, while the number of gates increased by 25% and

1. The new check-in area at Mytilene.

2. Architectural detail at the new Kefalonia airport.

3. In harmony with the local architecture-the new terminal on Mykonos.

4. Αerial view of the new terminal at Mykonos.

security checkpoints doubled. On the Greek mainland, Kavala’s “Megas Alexandros” Airport received a similar refurbishment, as well as more than a 1,900 square metre expansion.

Also on the mainland, Aktion Airport’s terminal had a complete overhaul and a 2,500 square metre expansion –providing extra space for twice as many security checkpoints, 14 check-in counters, and 7 departure gates. On the island of Samos, the airport terminal was modernised and expanded by over 1,500 square metres – with plenty of room for more check-in counters, departure gates, security checkpoints, and other services. At Skiathos Airport, the terminal has also been completely refurbished and enlarged by nearly 2,200 square metres.

“Odysseas Elytis” Airport in Mytilene features a new terminal with over 7,100 square metres of space. Similarly, the new terminal at Kefalonia “Anna Pollatou” Airport offers some 10,700 square metres of space for passenger comfort, including more services, a 70% increase in the number of check-in counters, and twice as many security checkpoints and departure gates. On Mykonos, the redesigned terminal is now 50% bigger and

1. Waiting area at Aktion airport.

2. Exterior view of the Chania terminal.

3. The impressive new terminal at Thessaloniki.

4. The new terminal at Kos.

5. Modern aesthetics at the new terminal in Santorini.

combines traditional Cycladic architectural highlights with modern airport facilities. As a result, there is more space for check-in counters, departure gates, as well as a unique ambiance with attractive amenities.

On Rhodes, the airport has also been upgraded to offer world-class services. The terminal has a larger check-in area, plus more security checkpoints and baggage belts, a wider choice of shopping and dining. The apron in front of the terminal was also redesigned for improved operations.

Similarly, in the second quarter of 2020 Corfu “Ioannis Kapodistrias” Airport opened a new terminal with nearly 10,400 square meters of space: including 28 check-in counters, 8 security checkpoints and 12 departure gates.

The remaining construction works continued to progress at three airports: on the islands of Kos and Santorini, as well on the mainland at Thessaloniki “Makedonia ” Airport. At

Kos Airport, the new passenger terminal now boasts more than 23,000 square metres of space and a new apron area. Santorini Airport’s terminal underwent a major redevelopment resulting in a far larger facility total well over 15,000 square metres of space for an optimum passenger experience.

Final construction works were completed at Thessaloniki “Makedonia” Airport, the largest airport in Fraport Greece’s portfolio. This €100 million development has created a new terminal complex to rival Europe’s most popular airports. The new terminal is linked via skyway bridges to the redesigned existing terminal – thus doubling the amount of terminal space available. More check-in space, twice as many departure gates, and a wide range of attractive restaurant and shopping facilities now shape a completely new environment at the international gateway to Greece’s second largest city.

Fraport Greece was established in 2015 for the purposes of developing, managing, operating and improving the 14 regional airports in Greece for the next 40 years. Fraport Greece took over the management of the airports on April 11, 2017 with the objective of enhancing their international competitiveness by way of

modernising their infrastructure, and optimising training programmes for staff. Customer service, competent staff and overall safety have been paramount to the successful implementation of the programme’s overall design.

In every corner of Greece an upgraded airport managed by Fraport Greece, is there to welcome you and elevate your travel experience. Every part of the country is connected and the 14 destinations bring you closer to the world.

The 14 Fraport Greece Airports

PVK Aktion

CHQ Chania

CFU Corfu

KVa Kavala

EF l Kefalonia

KG s Kos

MJT Mitilini

JMK Mykonos

RHO Rhodes

s MI Samos

JTR Santorini

J s I Skiathos

s KG Thessaloniki

ZTH Zakynthos

The 14 Fraport Greece airports are accredited by the ACI

regarding the measures taken aiming to curb the spread of coronavirus.

JTR

KGS

RHO

Mitilini Airport

ACCESS

BY CAR

Access the Airport quickly and easily, by driving your own car. Mitilini Airport is located 8.2km from the city of Mitilini and is easily accessible from El. Venizelos Avenue. The journey to and from the city centre takes about 15-20 minutes. Kalloni is 47 km away from the Airport and the journey from the Airport is about an hour. Mythimna (Molyvos) is 70km away from the Airport and the journey takes about one and a half hours. Plomari is 46.5km away from the

Airport and the journey takes about one hour and 20 minutes.

BY PUBLIC BUS

Direct Bus Service to and from the Airport Information. Transit bus service is provided between the Airport and the city of Mitilini. There is a public bus stop in front of the terminal building. Tickets can be purchased from the bus driver.

For more information please contact: www.ktel-lesvou.gr.

BY TAXI

Helpful information when taking a taxi to and from the Airport: 24/7

metered taxi service is available outside the Mitilini Airport

Terminal building. The journey from the Airport to Mitilini is about 15-20 minutes and the fare is normally 10€. You may be charged extra, if you carry many pieces of luggage. Indicative fares from the Airport to popular destinations:

Mitilini Town Centre 10€

Kalloni Town Centre 55€

Skala Eressos 115€

Mythimna/ Molyvos 85€ Plomari 55€

Petra 80€

Mantamados/ Taxiarchis 50€

Vatera 70€

Aghios Raphael 30€

Aghiasos 40€

Perama 40€

Skala Sykamineas/ Sykamias 65€

Skala Kallonis 60€

Fares are indicative. Please ask your driver for an accurate cost estimate.

AIRPORT SERVICES

BAGGAGE CARTS

The baggage cart system in the terminal ensures cart availability for your convenience.

BULKY ITEMS

You can check bulky luggage at your

airline’s regular check-in counter.

LOST AND FOUND

For items left inside the terminal please contact Police Lost Property or through Deliverback by filling in the Lost Property form on our Airport website.

FACILITIES

You’ll find a nursery room at the sanitary facilities. Sanitary facilities include baby room where you can change or nurse your childin privacy.

ATMS

Get served directly and easily. Cash or credit cards make your moves easier and help you to arrange any outstanding issues even shortly before departure

or after your arrival at the airport.

Eurobank Arrivals, All Users Area.

Euronet Arrivals, All Users Area.

CAR RENTAL

A destination worth exploring by car. Do you want to get around easily, quickly and on your own terms? We have found the most interesting car rental options for you. Find out more about your choices at the Airport.

Avis/Budget Arrivals, All Users Area, tel. +30 22514 40075, tel. +30 6947 046464 avismjt@gmail.com

Hertz/Thrifty Arrivals, All Users Area, tel. +30 22510 61589 reservations@hertz.gr, reservations@thrifty.com.gr

Avance Arrivals, All Users

Area, tel. +30 22514 40076, automoto@otenet.gr

SHOP & DINE

Because an Airport is much more than departures and arrivals!

HELLENIC DUTY FREE SHOPS

Departures, Schengen Area (accessible to all passengers) & Non Schengen Area - In a cosy, totally refurbished, friendly, easy-to-shop environment you will find a breathtaking selection of all well-known brands of perfumes & cosmetics, confectionery, Hellenic gourmet, toys, electronics, tobacco, spirits, as well as all the latest fashion trends in sunglasses, watches and accessories at competitive prices!

GLYKANISOS

Departures, Schengen Area

(accessible by all passengers) - Airport’s hot spot with authentic Greek ouzo, the famous Greek aperitif with the aromatic aniseed prevailing, served with freshly cooked appetizers.

GREGORY’S

Departures, All Users Area

- If you are eager to discover the taste of traditional Greek pastries, but also tasteful and nutritional sandwiches, salads, pasta salads, desserts and an authentic coffee experience, then Gregory’s is your destination.

REFILL

Departures Non Schengen Area

- Refill serves simple, elegant boulangerie products made with healthy and organic ingredients, enjoyable for breakfast, lunch and dinner.

Mitilini Airport, Lesvos, 811 00

www.mjt-airport.gr

Incredible Greece Issue #7

INCREDIBLE GREECE

— LESVOS —

LOUIS VUITTON LV BY THE POOL 2024

EDITORIAL

Welcome to Greece:

Your Gateway to an Unforgettable Summer.

CONTENTS

INCREDIBLE GREECE

CER AM IC STORIES

Enduring Legacy

ΝΕΑ BMW X1.

Red Gold

Cycladic Retreat

EPICURE AN

EXCELLENCE

RUR A L ISL AND LIFE

MAJESTIC WATERS

TIM ELESS CHARM

THE CREATOR

IONIAN ALLURE

WHISPERS OF YESTERYE A R

OVERLOOKING

M YTHICA L

HEIGHTS

NATURE’S

E M ER A LD

EXPLORE

SANI/IKOS GROUP

BLUE HORIZONS

EXPLORE

MEDITERRANEAN COSMOS

URBAN ELEG A NCE

THE CAVE OF THE NYM PHS

ANCIENT SY M POSIU M

A NAUTICA L HERITA GE

PA R A DISE

ON E A RTH

A Blend of Mountain and Sea

A TASTE OF KOS

Pork or Goat With Bulgur

Tomato Spoon Sweet

Echoes of Ancient Athens

THE INSIDER

Tips & tricks. The Ultimate Guide for your Destination

Tragonisi & the Monk Seals

SANTORINI

On the Beach

What to Buy

KABAΛΑ/KAVALA

6 Museums with Countless Treasures

Uniquely Zakynthian

Cheers to Corfu!

Barcarolle: Α Fairy Tale Custom

The Numbers

THE SECRET RECIPE

Legendary Desserts!

The Island of Orchids

14 Welcome

A New Era for Travel in Greece

The 14 Fraport Greece Airports

Mitilini Airport

ACCESS

AIRPORT SERVICES

LOST AND FOUND

FACILITIES

ATMS

CAR RENTAL

SHOP & DINE

HELLENIC DUTY FREE SHOPS

GREGORY’S

REFILL