Fleece Goes Allover printing, texture and color blocking are three hot trends happening now in eece. Learn about more. By Deborah Sexton Contributing Writer
(Editor’s Note: The following article consists of information and feedback from Independent Trading Co.’s development/production team. All garments also were provided by Independent Trading Co.)
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hether you do apparel decorating, have a retail store or both, staying abreast of the latest apparel trends is challenging. But for those who invest the time and research, it can pay off. Apparel reflecting hot trends should be on display in your showroom, and should be included in samples for sales presentations and advice offered to customers. Doing so shows that you know what you are talking about and ensures clients are happier with the finished product. Following is a look at some of the most prevalent trends currently seen in several markets, including streetwear, action sports and large-scale retail, as well as interactive entertainment and other licensed properties. While most of these trends are not new, this photo essay will give you a sense of popularly requested looks. Then, perhaps you can take these examples and apply them to your own markets and customer base to come up with variations that will grab attention and boost sales.
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INSETS
The more unique and personalized you can make a garment, the more you can charge for it. Savvy decorators who cater to the boutique market or have online web stores on sites like Etsy are setting themselves apart by taking a stock fleece style and customizing it with insets in fabrics such as animal prints and lace. Leopard and zebra patterns seem to be leading the herd among currently trending animal prints. Popular places to insert a contrasting pattern or fabric include the tops of the shoulders, the entire back body panel and the top one-third of the front of the sweat shirt. The possibilities are endless. Insets make it possible to take a stock style and create a private-label mini collection by offering the insets in different locations or in multiple fabrics. For a manufacturer to produce a fully customized style requires minimums of 500-600 pieces per color, so small companies either are doing the cutting and sewing themselves or are finding local contract seamstresses who can do the work. With custom inset styles selling upwards of $40 at retail, the additional cost can yield a decent profit.
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color blocking While not a new trend, color blocking remains strong in retail fleece lines. A traditional combination is to have the body one color, while the raglan sleeves and hood are another color. Other combinations include having the body one color, the hood and pouch pocket a second color, and the sleeves and the bottom band a third color. Another example is to have one-third of the bottom of the sweat shirt as one color, the middle third a second color and the top third — including the sleeves and hoodie — a third color. Stripes are another prevalent form of color blocking that can be done in two, three and even four colors. And of course, there are a wide range of variations that don’t necessarily follow any pattern or components of the garment. As with insets, color blocking is a great way to create a distinct, one-of-a-kind style that is valued for its individuality. When color blocking mimics a school’s or organization’s colors, it also can serve to reinforce the brand.
bows Bows always have been a classic fashion element, and this year they are making a comeback. “Bows and knots aren’t just for the holidays,” according to the December 2013 issue of Women’s Wear Daily, in an article about spring 2014 trends. “Designers were big on the motif for spring, working them into a bevy of looks.” By simply adding a bow, you can easily maximize value for little cost. Add a beautiful embroidered or sparkly print, and it really makes for an eye-catching piece that commands a higher price point.
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August 2014 | Impressions
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textured fleece
As an alternative to traditional fleece, new variations have begun to trend during the past few years that offer a more textured or varied look. Specifically, French terry has been increasing in popularity. This type of knit features looping on the inside of the fabric. It is not brushed like traditional fleece and the face, or front, has a flat, unlooped surface. A wide range of looks can be achieved by using different colors, thicknesses and yarn types, which often involve proprietary processes. In the end, you have a fleece knit with some similarities to a sweater. In the example shown, it’s easy to see that charcoal and white yarns were mixed to create a speckled or variated look on the surface, while the inside of the garment has a simple striped pattern (inset, at left). When used for a hoodie or a full-zip jacket, where the inside shows, it has a distinctly different look that enhances the overall appearance of the garment. Marled yarn, another method used for adding texture to fleece, also currently is trendy. Inspired by vintage Japanese loop wheel fabric — which has intricate texture, flaws and inconsistencies — it is another version of a variated look.
heavy metal While a long-time staple of the biker and hard-rock music niches, decorations such as grommets, nailheads and studs have moved into mainstream fashion when used as an accent to add interest and a more edgy look to a basic sweat shirt. A common place to position decorative hardware is along a seam edge, such as the neckline, cuffs or raglan sleeves, but creative variations abound. Grommets, specifically, can open the door to creating a corset look where two rows are created and ribbon, or another type of cord, is used to lace up a front or back area. Decorative hardware also can be used along the outside of a hood, as well as on the pouch pockets and waistband. Depending on your market, it’s a trend that’s here to stay and can help in the quest to offer something different from your competitors. Again, this trend is reserved for markets that are willing to pay more. While there are tools and machines available to speed up the application process, it’s still a decoration that has to be done by hand or by a single operator. 32
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goin’ retro with hawaiian prints Hawaiian prints from the 1950s are sizzling this season, according to various fashion magazines. This classic pattern was seen “reimagined” in a variety of unexpected fabrics and subdued hues on fashion runways as part of collections from designers like Michael Kors, Suno, Marc Jacobs, and Marni. Hawaiian and tropical florals have evolved as one of the predominant prints for spring 2014, and they are being requested by the brand-name designers for use as appliqué fabrics and in allover prints on fleece. In addition to florals, palm trees, pineapples and the like are enjoying popularity.
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speckled slub fleece
A third type of variated fleece is called speckled slub fleece. This fabric is created by taking three or four yarn colors and knitting them together, resulting in a new look that will give customers a reason to buy another sweat shirt. This particular fabric, shown here, was custom created for this client after nearly 12 months of development. It capitalizes on the current trend of having a textured or mottled look. The resulting effect breaks away from traditional solids. Used for a juniors pullover hoodie, the hood has a raw edge. The brand, Fox Head Inc., actually is offered by a company that specializes in motocross apparel and gear, but eventually branched out with a retail clothing line. Also part of the textured/mottled category is heather. It remains the most well known and popular of all variated fleece looks, and is showing no signs of slowing down. You’ll see many different interpretations of texture and variations in fleece, and it marks the style as being more fashion forward than flat, solid colors. It also can lend the perception of being dressier than its plainer cousins and, therefore, more versatile. Its biggest markets have been for fashion and resorts, where customers are willing to pay a little more for something other than the same look everyone else is wearing.
allover printing Another popular trend, which never seems to completely go away, is allover printing. The graphics depend on the market, and this decorating method can be used for pullover or full-zip hoodies, or any body style, since the print is applied to the bulk fabric before cutting and sewing. This particular floral print was done for Obey Clothing, a line founded by artist/designer Shepard Fairey that was built on a doit-yourself counterculture of punk rock and skateboarding. Florals never go out of style, and this print was designed with a retro look.
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CLASSIC LOOK, MODERN TWIST
This style, created for the surf market, combines several classic trends to create a unique piece. It features a scoop neck, which is a departure from the more prevalent crew neck. This gives the pullover more of a feminine appeal. Second, the rib-knit collar, cuffs and waistband feature custom navy and white jacquard stripes, which lend a nautical or sporty look to the heather gray body. Also unique to this custom style is the welt pocket. Not only does it add function to the shirt, but also a more fashionable, upscale look. The slit pocket is another alternative pocket style that is currently trending.
AZTEC CAMOUFLAGE Another print trend that has been strong for the past couple of years — and is expected to continue into next year — is camouflage. Driven, at least in part, by hunting shows and the reality series “Duck Dynasty,” camouflage is everywhere, including fleece. In addition to being used as an allover design, you’ll find fleece styles that use it as a colorblocking element.
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One of the newer graphic trends within the allover printed category is Aztec. It was visible in spring fashion shows and already has been seen on college campuses across the United States. Inspired by Central American Indian tribes, its patterns are geometric and usually created in bold, bright colors. Designers are creating these ethnic-style prints with a touch of urban beat. Expect to see this trend continue to get stronger throughout the coming year.
Deborah Sexton, the former editor of Impressions, has been writing about the decorated apparel industry for 30 years. For more information or to comment on this article, email Deborah at dsexton@sbcglobal.net.
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