Indianapolis Monthly - May 2023 Edition

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107 THINGS WE LOVE ABOUT THE 500

The hometown favorite, Ed Carpenter. The reigning champion, Marcus Ericsson. The first woman to qualify. The fashion. The triple pagodas. The radio experience. The bagpipers. How do we love thee, 107th running of the Indianapolis 500? Let our veteran race correspondent count the ways.

BY TONY REHAGEN EDITED BY MEGAN FERNANDEZ

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ROAD BLOCK

In the early 1970s, anxiety disorders were not properly understood or treated. Here’s the story of a Broad Ripple race fan who was driven from despair to a life of adventure by an unlikely ally: a sunset-orange Saab.

BY NANCY HILL

Photograph by John Bragg

Marcus Ericsson kisses the bricks after his 2022 winning finish.

Due to rising colorectal cancer cases among adults younger than 50, things are changing.

SCHEDULE A COLONOSCOPY

Now recommended starting at age 45, a colonoscopy is the ONLY cancer screening where physicians can find precancerous polyps and remove them at the same time. And because colorectal cancer doesn’t always cause symptoms at first, getting a colonoscopy at an earlier age could save your life.

FranciscanHealth.org/ColonCare

GOOD LIFE

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WANTED

This handmade charcuterie board is almost too dazzling for cheese.

22 SHOP TALK

A mother and son put their heads and hearts together to open a fun art studio.

24

REALTY CHECK

Which would you choose, a Herron-Morton Craftsman or a posh downtown condo?

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TRENDING

Any of these picture frames will make a perfect Mother’s Day gift.

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BODY + SOUL

The new family center at Broad Ripple Park is getting rave reviews.

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THE DISH

29

SWOON

The cocktails are passwordprotected at Bates-Hendricks speakeasy The Vault.

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FIRST BITE

Old Major Market explains sausage baking; Blue Mind Coffee is the roast of the town on 38th Street; Gallery Pastry Bar is SoBro’s newest eatery.

31

TASTE TEST

Roasting split beef bones transforms the unctuous marrow into a meaty delicacy that spreads on bread like butter.

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FOODIE

World traveler and recipe developer Mai Ngô shares a passion for food on her website, MM Bon Appétit.

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REVIEW

TRAVELER

Greetings from the Big D.

The south side has a new, under-the-radar spot for fine dining and drinking at Antilogy in Center Grove. 69

RESTAURANT GUIDE

A tour of the city’s best eats, from fine dining to favorite dives.

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BACK HOME AGAIN

I tried to fight it, but an innocent-looking flip phone led me down the primrose path.

COMING SEPTEMBER 2023

Dream Home is the premier high-end show home in Indianapolis. Built and designed by teams led by Brad Bowman of Homes by Design and Jennifer O’Connor of Dare 2 Design, the 2023 Dream Home offers visitors the opportunity to tour a custom designed residence with picturesque views and luxurious furnishings, finishes, and amenities. Located in Zionsville’s scenic Holliday Farms community, the house is open to the public during select weekends in September.

57 // DECORATORS’ SHOW HOUSE AND GARDENS

Take an inside look at the 62nd anniversary Decorators’ Show House and Gardens, sponsored by St. Margaret’s Hospital Guild. This year’s host property is the Failey House, a 6,670-squarefoot brick Tudor completed in 1928. Get details about the tour and affiliated events, learn about the features and history of the house, and see how participating designers interpreted their areas and applied their signature styles and finishes to the interior rooms.

HOME BUILT BYINTERIOR DESIGN BY

IN

THE NEXT ISSUE ... Champions of Diversity and Inclusion

In this profile section, Indy-area businesses will showcase their efforts to create more diverse and inclusive workplaces. Read about the programs and initiatives they developed to broaden employment opportunities and foster equity within their organizations.

PHOTO BY TONY VALAINIS

Firefly Children & Family Alliance connects Indiana children, families, and individuals with the resources and services they need to live successfully.

WE NAIL THE CONCEPT

Woodstock Custom Homes specializes in low maintenance, custom designed homes for main level living with indoor/outdoor, open concept floor plans that include jaw-dropping architectural detail... and all in just the right blend of luxury and size for you. If this sounds like what you’ve been searching for, keep reading.

We currently have premium lots in Hamilton County’s most sought after neighborhoods like Reserve on South, Grassy Branch at Bridgewater, Sagamore, and Brookside... along with several quick move-in opportunities already underway. However, if you have additional time, we can help design a very unique home worthy of your dream lifestyle. It all starts with a conversation.

To learn more about Woodstock and see examples of our lifestyle home design, visit WoodstockCustomHomes.com or visit our new, fully-decorated model home in Noblesville’s Sagamore neighborhood. 16392 Grand Cypress Drive is open every Saturday & Sunday 12-4.

EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Andrea Ratcliff

INTERIM EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Megan Fernandez

FEATURES EDITOR Julia Spalding

LIFESTYLE EDITOR Christina Vercelletto

CONTRIBUTING EDITORS Robert Annis, Jeana Harris, Terry Kirts, Laura Kruty, Suzanne Krowiak, Amy Lynch, Sam Stall, Adam Wren

DESIGN DIRECTOR Brittany Dexter

SENIOR ART DIRECTOR Margo Wininger

CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS John Bragg, Tony Valainis

CONTRIBUTING ARTISTS HATSUE, Ryan Johnson, Ryan Snook, Todd Urban

PUBLISHER Ivy Bayer

ACCOUNT EXECUTIVES David Gerdt, Nancy Oliphant IndianapolisMonthly.com/advertise-with-us

PRODUCTION DIRECTOR Vu Luong

BUSINESS

OPERATIONS DIRECTOR Missy Beiting

BUSINESS COORDINATOR Erica Birkle

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CEO Stefan Wanczyk

PRESIDENT John Balardo

EDITORIAL / ADVERTISING OFFICES Indianapolis Monthly 8909 Purdue Rd., Suite 130 Indianapolis, IN 46268 317-237-9288

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Bailey Briscoe

Freelance writer Bailey Briscoe’s grandma recently told her about “devilish” palm oil, the production of which harms rainforests. It was in almost all of her personal care products, she lamented. When Briscoe reported on Salt & Ash Soap Co. (p. 24), she learned their handmade goods are all free of palm oil. Briscoe knows what Gran is getting for her birthday.

Nancy Hill

Nancy Hill has traveled from New Zealand to Patagonia. It’s hard to believe that anxiety brought her life to a standstill, as she recalls in her essay on her beloved Saab (p. 48). “It wasn’t easy, but my car started me down the road to adventure,” she says. Hill is a retired restaurateur (Broad Ripple Brewpub and the erstwhile Corner Wine Bar).

Amy Lynch

A proud member of Bourbon Women, contributing editor Amy Lynch swoons whenever she finds a well-made Manhattan. And that she did at The Vault (p. 27). “My fascination with the brown stuff began 15 years ago while I was in Louisville doing scouting research for an Indianapolis Monthly article, ironically,” Lynch recalls.

Clearing Their Name

It’s

Illustration by JAMES STEINBERG

THE NAME OF THE GAME. Our Triple-A Indianapolis Indians is a storied baseball team with 121 seasons under its belt—and a name that has come under fire. The team’s moniker has been attracting less-than-positive attention for several years. In 2020 the Indians organized a committee to investigate the appropriateness of their name, shortly after the National Congress of American Indians emailed the squad’s management asking to “provide the team with some general information about the facts concerning the harms caused by the continued use of Native ‘themed’ mascots in sports and popular culture.”

A PROACTIVE MINDSET. With professional squads in various sports catching increasing flak, including the Atlanta Braves, the Cincinnati Chiefs, and the Washington Redskins (now the Washington Commanders), the Indians decided to get ahead of their problem using a fresh approach: actually working alongside a Native American population to reach a sort of detente over the issue.

WEST COAST INSPIRATION. While this kind of partnership is uncommon, it’s not unheard of. Indianapolis Indians chairman and CEO Bruce Schumacher knew that the minor-league Spokane Indians baseball team in Washington state had forged a relationship with the local Spokane Tribe of Indians. The two collaborated on respectful use of local Native imagery and representation. “It got us thinking about what was possible in terms of doing the same thing here,” Schumacher says.

ENTER THE MIAMI NATION OF INDIANS OF INDIANA. Schumacher reached out to Brian Buchanan, chief of the Miami Nation of Indians of Indiana. The Miami people occupied what would become Northern and Central Indiana until the first European settlers arrived and started pushing them out. By 1846 most of them had been forcefully removed, first to Kansas and then to the tribe’s current location, Oklahoma. However, some remained in this area,

THE INDIANS DECIDED TO GET AHEAD OF THEIR PROBLEM USING A FRESH APPROACH: ACTUALLY WORKING ALONGSIDE INDIANA’S NATIVE AMERICAN POPULATION TO REACH A SORT OF DETENTE OVER THE ISSUE.

and they now comprise the Miami Nation of Indians of Indiana. Although the group numbers in the several thousands, the government has thus far refused to recognize them as an official tribe. They maintain that they are the only continuously functioning, treaty-recognized tribe in the United States that’s not considered as such by the federal government.

A WARM RECEPTION. Buchanan and the vast majority of tribe members were open to getting the conversation with the team going. Enthusiastic, even. “I was excited about it,” Buchanan recalls.

THE INDIANS ARE STILL THE INDIANS. In discussions between the Miami and the team, it was decided not to change the name of the Indianapolis Indians. “The name Indians is not derogatory by any means, and the organization doesn’t do anything to belittle us in any way,” Buchanan says. “So we’re very happy that they can save and keep this name that they’ve had for more than 100 years.”

BUT POSITIVE CHANGES ARE IN PLAY . The team recently announced that it’s partnering with the Miami on a number of Native American-related activities, including support of the Miami scholarship program, fan educational opportunities, and a pregame reading of a land-acknowledgment statement, which says, in part, “… as we prepare Victory Field for today’s game, the

Indianapolis Indians wish to acknowledge the Miami, Potawatomi, Shawnee, Delaware, Peoria, and Kickapoo peoples, on whose ancestral homelands this field was built.”

AND THE LOGO MAY EVOLVE. The team’s logo may at some point get an update. The current iteration is of a vaguely Southwestern design. (Three decades ago, it replaced a far more problematic logo of a Native American wearing a baseball uniform and a feather on his head, winding up for a pitch.) “We’ve had the same logo since around 1993,” Schumacher says. “So maybe Chief Buchanan and his folks can give us some input on what a new one might look like. That’s a piece of the puzzle that’s still got to be put together.”

NEVER SAY NEVER. While the team’s name is a nonissue as far as the Miami are concerned, it remains to be seen whether the question is permanently put to rest. Will other groups take exception in the coming years? That’s anybody’s guess. “I don’t think it’s an issue where there will ever be 100 percent unanimity, but from the feedback we’ve gotten, I think that people feel like this is the right way to do it,” Schumacher says.

#ROWDIEFOREVER. By all accounts, Rowdie, the team’s red, furry mascot, isn’t going anywhere. “He’s just a bear with a baseball for a nose,” Schumacher says. “He’s fine as he is.” —SAM STALL

PHOTO BY TONY VALAINIS

Life in the Fast Lane

Q : MY 10-YEAR-OLD SON DREAMS OF RACING IN THE INDY 500. HOW DOES A KID TRAIN TO BE AN ELITE RACE-CAR JOCKEY? A: If he wants to someday kiss the bricks at the Indianapolis Motor Speedway, take him to your friendly neighborhood go-kart track. Most offer racing leagues where aspiring Speed Racers can learn the ropes. “Any race-car driver you have heard of no doubt has go-karts somewhere in their early history,” says Rick Bisbee, sales director for Racer Media, publisher of Racer. At age 16, your kid can make the jump to actual cars if he’s a standout talent. Future champs also need either a financial backer or rich parents, as the hobby isn’t cheap. It doesn’t hurt to have good looks, the ability to schmooze sponsors, and a solid understanding of the marketing side of racing. But you know what really gives a kid a leg up? A bankable last name like Montoya, Andretti, or Foyt, and a relative who owns a racing team.

—SAM STALL

Indiana Peony Festival

A MANNER-FESTO FOR NOBLESVILLE’S TRIBUTE TO THE STATE FLOWER ON MAY 20.

Start in Seminary Park, festooned with 200 peony bushes, decorated benches, and even a bedecked Volkswagen Beetle. Bring a straw basket to fill with yellow, pink, and coral blooms by the stem. Of the 1,000 plants for sale, the yellow ones sell out first, so snap one up. Beginners, start with the pink Sarah Bernhardt. Beware, peonies aren’t native to Indiana and are tricky to grow in our clayheavy soil. Talk to peony farmer Todd Jameson for pointers. Taste the flower at 9th Street Bistro, serving a cocktail with peonyinfused vodka during the alfresco brunch crawl through Nobleville’s enchanting alleyways. Don’t miss the bouquet-off, a florist competition.

If that number sounds a bit high, rest assured it isn’t—at least compared to Florida (1,150,944) and Texas (455,160). But no one tops Mississippi, where a staggering 10.69 percent of the voting-age citizenry can’t cast a ballot because of their criminal record.

( UNSPOKEN RULES )

ask THE HOOSIERIST

BY RYAN JOHNSON; PHOTO COURTESY CHRIS WHONSETLER

Carol Howard, Rev Executive Director

THE IU HEALTH FOUNDATION’S SIGNATURE FUNDRAISING EVENT CELEBRATES ITS 10TH ANNIVERSARY THIS YEAR AT THE INDIANAPOLIS MOTOR SPEEDWAY, BUT REV’S MASTERMIND AND ONE-PERSON-SHOW DIRECTOR SHOWS NO SIGNS OF SLOWING DOWN. BY AMY LYNCH

Why does Rev mean so much to you?

IU Health saved my life and my twins. In 2012, I was pregnant with identical twins, which was a very high-risk pregnancy. I spent many weeks at IU Health University Hospital prior to giving birth and received the most amazing care. I ended up having an emergency C-section at 33 weeks. Because University is a teaching hospital, I had offered to donate my placenta to research, and they discovered an infection. If I had

carried the twins to term, it’s unlikely any of us would have survived. When I was approached by IUH Foundation about Rev in late 2013, I saw it as my opportunity to give back, and that is what motivates me to give my all to this event.

Could you ever have imagined a decade ago what Rev would become? No. My twins were 1 and my older daughter was 5 while I was planning the first event, so they—the kids and

the event—have grown up together in a way. From a professional standpoint, I’m so proud of Rev and what it’s grown into over these past 10 years. This year will take us well over the $7 million mark.

Where’d the initial inspiration for the event come from?

The idea was there when I was brought on board. The committee had picked out the name and the location.

You’ve organized Zoobilation in the past. How did those skills translate to Rev?

I worked at the Indianapolis Zoo for seven years, and Zoobilation was one of the major events I handled. The majority of my growth and experience with events of that magnitude came during that time. When I started out at the zoo, Zoobilation was netting $580,000 annually. When I left, it was over $1.2 million. That’s really what lights me up—figuring out all the moving pieces and parts of an event, and then determining the best way to grow it.

From a planning perspective, what’s unique about Rev?

Rev involves so many different cultural layers in the community. It includes everyone from local artists, musicians, and chefs to community partners. They all serve in different roles to make Rev come to life.

What kind of response did you get from the restaurant community when you first pitched the Rev concept? Working with Zoobilation gave me the ability to build relationships with local chefs and restaurants. What I like to call Indy’s “godfather chefs”—Neal Brown, Craig Baker, Greg Hardesty—were my foundation. I credit them with helping us build out the restaurant program because they were so invested. The Cunningham Group, Huse Group … connecting with them and getting their buy-in was so helpful.

What did the IndyCar drivers think?

When I first moved to Indy, I worked for Andretti Green Racing with drivers like Tony Kanaan, Dan Wheldon, Dario Franchitti, and Bryan

Photo by CHRIS BERGIN

ASK ME ANYTHING

Herta. Tony remembers me coming to the drivers’ meeting at the track to talk about how they were going to be paired up with chefs for Rev, and they all kind of rolled their eyes. They’re so busy during the month of May anyway, and it just felt like I was adding one more thing to their plates. But they did the first Rev event and were pleasantly surprised. Many have come back every year since.

What do you remember most about that first Rev?

We were dealing with weather, and everything had to be quickly moved inside. At one point in the night, though, I was able to just stop for a minute and watch the fireworks. That was probably my favorite moment.

You must have some organizational secrets.

From January through May, I become laser-focused and a bit OCD. The best way to describe my organizational style is a giant flight map with airplanes that are constantly moving, and I can’t lose sight of any of the details. This definitely comes at a cost, and my closest friends will joke that they know I am not available during this time.

How do you build powerhouse committees?

The key is having a strong leader for each committee and giving clear expectations to everyone on all of our committees. I have a few key people I can depend on, so I give those committee members more responsibilities and invest my energy and time to support them.

What’s your favorite thing to do that night?

Watching the dancers on the track just before the deejay starts the dance party from the flag stand above the start–finish line.

Do you taste everything?

I wish the answer was yes! I am not sure I have eaten anything the entire 10 years of Rev. We stress to our volunteers not to eat the food for guests, so I don’t feel I should partake, either. I think it’s important to lead by example. We always have pizza and

sandwiches for the volunteers, so that’s what I eat, too.

Do you get nervous the night before or the morning of the party?

I actually feel incredibly calm the week of the event. The work is done by then, and it’s all about executing and managing the unforeseen obstacles that become challenges.

What are three pieces of advice you would give to a first-time Rev-goer?

1. Download the app to see what time everything is taking place and create your own customized schedule based on your interests. 2. Eat as much food as possible. Even if you have allergies or dietary preferences, we have GF, V, and other indications marked on each of the chefs’ menu items. 3. Put on the dress or jacket you’re not sure you should wear—anything goes as long as you are comfortable and stylish. Wedge heels or trendy tennis shoes definitely help with all the walking.

How has growing Rev changed you over the last 10 years, personally and professionally? What is the best thing you’ve gotten out of it?

Personally, Rev has changed the way I look at my work and my priorities. Over the years, I have learned to try to balance the chaos and busyness of Rev with being the best mother and wife I possibly can. Professionally, I’ve realized I can’t use every great idea that comes my way. We try to use a lot of them, but the event is better when we pick a few each year and work hard to make those activations perfect. I’ve met some of my best friends through Rev and learned so many wonderful things about our community. I am tremendously grateful for the relationships I’ve been able to create.

Why do you think Rev has resonated so well with the public and keeps growing?

There is something at Rev for everyone, and it takes place at the world’s greatest racetrack—the Indianapolis Motor Speedway. It’s such a unique venue.

What’s something you won’t delegate about Rev?

The overall vision.

The dancers, Howard’s favorite part of the evening

The fireworks, which redeemed a rainy first Rev

The spread, with options for every eater

BEST BETS

THIS MONTH’S CAN’T–MISS EVENTS

Classical Series

May 5–6

Renowned cellist Pablo Ferrández performs Dvořák’s concerto of Czech music; conductor Lina GonzálezGranados leads the ISO through Shostakovich’s heralded Fifth Symphony at the Hilbert Circle Theatre indianapolissymphony.org

May 12–13

The Month of May gears up on the 12th with qualifiers for the GMR Grand Prix at IMS. Race day is the 13th, when the stars of the NTT IndyCar Series conquer the Brickyard. indianapolis motorspeedway.com

May 23

Harrison Ford may be an octogenarian now, but the adventures of Indiana Jones never get old. See the first flick in the iconic series in a new way at the IMAX Theater in the Indiana State Museum. imaxindy.com

May 24

Tortoises, start your engines! One of the oldest family-favorite events at the Indianapolis Zoo features endangered radiated tortoises, natives of Madagascar, dawdling down a racetrack. They’re in it for the fruit at the finish line, not the glory. indianapoliszoo.com

May 26

Ruoff Music Center in Noblesville is our stop on the tour celebrating Jackson’s 50th year as an entertainer. The show spotlights her 1993 album, Janet, and 1997’s The Velvet Rope. Rapper Ludacris opens. livenation.com

(1) Indianapolis Symphony Orchestra

(2) GMR Grand Prix

(3) Raiders of the Lost Ark : The IMAX Experience

(4) Zoopolis 500

(5) Janet Jackson: Together Again

STATUE OF RIGGIN

VINTAGE: 1892

Resides in the Benjamin Harrison Presidential Site

IN THE LATE 19th century, the United States did not command the respect as a world power that it does now. On October 16, 1891, a group of USS Baltimore sailors on shore leave was attacked by a mob of locals outside a bar in Valparaiso, Chile. Petty Officer Charles William Riggin was stabbed, then shot, dying in the arms of a shipmate. The 28-year-old Pennsylvanian had an untarnished record since enlisting at age 16, and he often entertained the crew at sea by singing and dancing. The Chilean government denied responsibility, but President Harrison demanded an apology and reparations … or else. As the U.S. prepared to declare war, Chile capitulated, paying $75,000 (nearly $2.5 million today). Historians agree that Harrison’s forcefulness changed international perception of America. When a newspaper suggested dimes be collected and molded into a memorial statue of Riggin, artist Alexander Doyle volunteered. It’s made from at least 15,000 silver dimes, most of which came from schoolchildren.

—CHRISTINA VERCELLETTO

Photo by TONY VALAINIS

S I T B A CK + RELAX

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RELAX IN STYLE AT HOUSEWORKS.

houseworks.biz

GOOD LIFE

WANTED

On Board

Whether used as charcuterie boards, wall decor, or both, the custom works of Broad Ripple artist Lauren Henry are uniquely snazzy. She beautifies bamboo boards in various shapes with food-safe, waterproof epoxy resin. Boards can also be embellished with mother-of-pearl, fire glass, or dried local flowers. “I’ve done everything from a gray-and-white marble design to rainbows for Pride,” Henry says. The line started when a friend gifted Henry a resin kit. “I’d never worked with it before, so I was a bit intimidated,” Henry recalls. “But I took the leap.” She now takes orders from as far away as Belgium. “Functional art is the best kind,” she says. @lhenryart on Instagram; boards start at $50.

—CHRISTINA VERCELLETTO

Photo by TONY VALAINIS

( SHOP TALK )

Get Crafty

A NEW CREATIVITY HAVEN HAS PERSONALIZED ATTENTION

DOWN TO AN ART.

BY CHRISTINA VERCELLETTO

THE ENTRANCE is hidden in the back of a nondescript office strip, but just look for the cheerful painted windows. ArtJack, a makerspace and art-supply boutique, is the cure for the rainy-day blues. Owner Alison O’Malley, an occupational therapist, has years of experience working with kids. But the impetus to open the studio was her son, Jack, an artistic young man with a broad, ready smile who has autism. “Jobs didn’t prove a perfect fit,” O’Malley shares. But now mom and son have been working side by side, whether in a class, at a birthday party, or during open studio hours. Options for kids include doll and fairy-house workshops, a make-your-own-hat bar, and even a school-vacation castle camp where they design and furnish a two-level wooden castle. Adult sessions—beginners encouraged—include painting, jewelry-making, and sewing. No matter which pursuit you opt for, Jack will be there to welcome, assist, and provide creative inspiration, says O’Malley. “If there’s a secret ingredient to the experience we offer, it’s him.”

ArtJack Creative Studio

ADDRESS

7340 Crossing Pl., Fishers HOURS

Dependent on reservations and time of year. Check artjackcreative.com or call scouted

IS THIS AMAZING SET A NEW FIND?

I picked it up during the pandemic. Online retail therapy! It’s Todd Snyder. I love patterns, primary colors, and a retro vibe.

YOUR HAIR LOOKS GREAT. WHO CUTS IT?

Oh, how I love them: Co-conspirators Danny and Sebastian at French Pharmacie. I’ve been digging this loose perm for a year now.

WHAT ARE YOUR FAVORITE LOCAL SHOPPING SPOTS?

Heritage Clothier for classics. Howl & Hide for fun surprises, like a Tom of Finland collab tee.

CELEB FASHION MUSES?

Equal parts Tilda Swinton and Harry Styles. —C.V.

(1) DIY bracelet, $5 (2) Yarn giraffe kit, $17 (3) DIY stuffie, $20 (4) Rainbow Sparkle watercolor gel crayons, $18 (5) Razzle Dazzle gem-art kit, $12

Jonathan Scott

Communications Director

Spoiled for Choice

WHETHER YOUR DREAM HOME IS A SWANKY PAD IN THE HEART OF THE CITY OR A CRAFTSMAN-STYLE BEAUTY WITH A HUGE YARD, KEEP READING. BY JEANA HARRIS

PETULA Clark

famously sang, “Things will be great when you’re downtown, no finer place for sure.” Whether you totally agree and are eyeing skyline views or you’d rather have ample green space on one of Indy’s favorite streets, both are available at comparable asking prices.

Even though it’s only about 10 minutes from Monument Circle, the tree-lined esplanade of North New Jersey Street gives its homes a cozy, small-town feel. Sitting on an almost unprecedented two-and-a-half lots, this Craftsman boasts more than 5,000 square feet of living space, a huge yard, and lovely gardens. The rooms are bright and spacious, with original 1910 charm seen in the gleaming hardwoods and wood trim throughout. Though the floor plan is open, each room maintains its own identity. There’s a lovely screened-in porch that leads to the backyard oasis complete with mature fruit trees, raised garden beds, and several distinct seating areas for conversation or quiet relaxation.

For those who prefer to take a page out of Clark’s songbook, this sleek condo offers a pristine perch above the energy of the city. Accessed via a secured, private elevator, this full-floor, openconcept unit surprises with more than 3,000 square feet of living space and impresses with highend features. Exposed brick adds texture and warmth to the light color palette. Thanks to two reserved spaces in the garage, you’ll never need to worry about street parking. With so many terrific haunts in walking distance, you may find yourself leaving the car behind anyway.

REALTY CHECK

PRICE $875,000 BEDROOMS 5 BATHROOMS 3 SQUARE FOOTAGE 5,096 YEAR BUILT 1910 WINNING EXTRA Enormous yard and garden REALTOR Carpenter Realtors

Mama Mia!

PICTURE FRAMES ARE CLASSIC MOTHER’S DAY GIFTS. THESE EXCEPTIONAL PICKS ARE WORTHY OF YOUR LEADING LADY.

(1) Dark wood carved oval frame, $45. Tiffany Skilling Interiors, 1057 E. 54th St., Ste. D, tiffanyskilling interiors.com

(2) Michael Aram handmade sunflower frame $130. Addendum Gallery, 800 S. Rangeline Rd., Carmel, adden dumgallery.com

(3) Zetamari Mosaic Artworks by Angie Heinrich glass-bead frame, $103. Artifacts Gallery, 6327 Guilford Ave., artifactsindy.com

(4) Inlaid wood picture frame in a greenery design, $49. Surroundings, 1101 E. 54th St., surroundingsantique-store .business.site

(5) Monica Rich Kosann malachite frame with 24k plating. $2,200.Charles Mayer & Co., 5629 N. Illinois St., charlesmayer.com

(7) L’Objet Kelly Behun 4-inchby-6-inch Side Eye Frame with beveled glass and a leather back. $250. Addendum Gallery

(6) Grant-Norén handpainted and lacquered wooden frame with a “piano finish” smoothness. $86. Artifacts Gallery

Interim editor-in-chief Megan Fernandez’s mom, Darlene, and her nephew

Features editor Julia Spalding’s mom, Joyce

Editor-in-chief Andrea Ratcliff and her mom, Polly

Photographer Tony Valainis’s mom and dad

Lifestyle editor Christina Vercelletto’s mother, Dorothy

Stylist Stephen Garstang’s mother, Carole

Senior art director Margo Wininger’s mom and grandma

Take a Lap

BROAD RIPPLE PARK DEBUTS A NEW INDOOR RECREATION HUB FOR THE COMMUNITY.

BY BAILEY BRISCOE

IT TOOK 18 months and nearly $20 million to replace the old Broad Ripple Park Family Center with a shiny, new one. When the doors opened earlier this year, visitors were welcomed with bright colors and sweeping views of the White River. And those doors have been revolving ever since. “It has just been so busy,” says Ashley Greene, assistant park manager at Broad Ripple Park. “The community has really gravitated toward it every single hour that we’ve been open.”

Why the refresh? The project is part of an extensive 20-year plan to improve and expand Broad Ripple Park. According to park officials, one of the biggest requests from the community was for more year-round activities. And they delivered, big time, with a walking track; a gym for various open sporting sessions; a playground; a fitness center

where kettlebells, medicine balls, and other equipment is provided; a party room; and community-meeting spaces— all indoors. Indy Parks even managed to integrate medical services by taking Community Health on as a tenant in a first-of-its-kind partnership. “Our old building wasn’t a good fit for our community,” Greene says. “We’re able to offer so many other indoor recreational spaces we couldn’t before.”

The center is open to the public. An adult open-gym membership can be purchased for $15 a month. Otherwise, pay for a la carte amenities at the front desk, with costs ranging from $1 to $3. Gardening lessons, dance fitness classes, and arts and crafts tutorials are among the array of options offered for all ages. The walking track is always free, along with weekly group fitness classes at 7 p.m. on Wednesdays and Thursdays. And yes … of course they’ve installed pickleball courts.

Raising the Bar

Add a dose of allnatural skincare decadence to your day.

A VISIT to Salt & Ash Soap Co. comes with a mood boost and a lesson in proper self-care (so long, chemical-drenched body lotion). Inside the petite Fountain Square shop, metal baskets and wooden bowls hold handmade shower steamers, bath bombs, bar soaps, lip balms, and other soothing delights. Reading the labels doesn’t require a science degree, thanks to simple ingredients like coconut milk, shea butter, and even cherries. Intentionally absent from the lists are palm oils, parabens, and phthalates. Owner Ashton Boehman is a stickler for making her products safe for sensitive skin and presenting them in packaging that’s kind to the environment. She crafts favorite body care blends like Milk & Honey and Lavender Vanilla, but also brings limited-edition seasonal offerings, such as Sunny Day bar soap ($9), into the mix. Packed with coconut oil, lemongrass, and sweet orange essential oil, it smells just like summer. Don’t let such goodies slip away without giving them a try. 1006 Virginia Ave., saltandashsoap.com —B.B.

BODY+ SOUL

Dallas, TX

DISTANCE

900 miles

FLY TIME

2.5 hours

Everything’s Bigger

COWBOY AND COUTURE CULTURE COLLIDE TO FABULOUS EFFECT IN BIG D.

BY ROBERT ANNIS

YOU MIGHT assume that Dallas, smack-dab in the middle of Texas, has a Western vibe. You’d be right—and wrong. You’ll spot as many Chanel bags as 10-gallon hats. Oil money continues to fuel the town, which still has much in common with the 1980s TV show of the same name.

If you want to dress the part of an urban cowboy, Wild Bill’s Western Store (wildbills western.com) will deck you out in authentic duds. Cody Newport, who bought the store last summer with his wife Julie, says the popularity of shows like Yellowstone brings a constant stream of customers. Hundreds of boxes filled with cowboy hats are neatly stacked, waiting to be shaped to any style using the steamer grafted out of bull horns. You can even design a pair of Western boots to your specifications—starting at $900.

Tequila lovers can embark on the Margarita Mile, a host of bars each offering its own

spin. Beto & Son (betoandson.com) uses liquid nitrogen to flash-freeze the concoction. Try the chili margarita at Ruins (ruinsdeepellum .com). It has just the right spicy kick, as does the Picarita at Yellow Rosa (yellowrosa.com), a speakeasy-style cocktaileria behind an unmarked door.

Dallas hosts legion local and national music acts. You may catch rising stars the Vandoliers play a warm-up show at The Kessler (thekessler.org). But it isn’t all country. On any given night in the Deep Ellum neighborhood, you’re just as likely to hear a band cover Taylor Swift as Ryan Bingham. The quintessential dive bar, Adair’s Saloon (adairssaloon.com), is the go-to for last call, with live music most nights. Swing by early to play free selections from the jukebox.

In neighboring Fort Worth, find scores of honky-tonks like Billy Bob’s (billybobstexas .com), the self-proclaimed world’s largest. It boasts a rodeo ring with live bulls. Only pros can hop on, but cheering is nearly as fun.

IF YOU GO

STAY One of Dallas’s first skyscrapers, the Magnolia Hotel (magnoliahotels.com/ dallas-downtown) offers gorgeous views of the skyline from well-appointed rooms.

EAT Get your reservations early for Las Palmas (laspalmasdallas .com), which serves upscale Tex-Mex. Be sure to order the killer Akaushi wagyu fajitas, cooked on a fire of mesquite and hickory wood.

MORE INFO visitdallas.com

All hail the industrious street performer at BUSKERFEST . Musicians, fire dancers, living statues, magicians, jugglers, and other innovative entertainers flood downtown Fort Wayne on Saturday, May 21. Admission and street parking are free; tipping the buskers for their efforts is encouraged. downtownfortwayne.com/buskerfest —CHRISTINA VERCELLETTO

TRAVELER

ImagesProvidedBy ErinFeldmeyer,ErinKayPhotographyLLC

THE DISH

SWOON

Hidden Treasure

In true Prohibition style, The Vault makes customers sleuth out a passcode to get in the door. “If you have to work to attain something, it’s always a little more satisfying,” says Michael Sherfick, owner of the Bates-Hendricks speakeasy that operated as a saloon in the early 1900s. According to legend, notorious gangsters stopped in from time to time, and an old trapdoor in the floor lends even more mystique. Guests can ask the “cocktail engineers” to construct customized beverages around a preferred spirit or opt for updated classics like the Smoked Old Fashioned. But the Bee’s Knees, a heady concoction of gin, honey, and lemon with a dried citrus slice floating in a sexy coupe, is the prettiest of the bunch.

1542 S. East St., vaultindy.com —AMY LYNCH

Photo by JES NIJJER

“To bake sausages in the oven like bacon, put parchment on a sheet tray, space the sausages an inch apart, and cook at 375 for 15 minutes. Flip them at 12 minutes.”

( REVISIT )

Good Neighbor

SOBRO GETS A TASTE OF GALLERY PASTRY SHOP’S SWEET SUCCESS. BY

AMY LYNCH

HER ORIGINAL northside location had its charms, but Gallery Pastry Shop co-owner Alison Keefer won’t miss the logistical challenges of that tucked-away flagship. “We’ve been cooking on butane burners with no hood, and our walls were literally crumbling,” says the restaurateur who moved the operation to a more suitable spot in March, bumping the number of Gallery locations to four.

With an eye toward honoring the building’s existing 1930s Art Deco-inspired design, Keefer worked with the local artists of Blice Edwards to incorporate postmodern details, such as vintage amber glass and textured arches, into the restaurant’s new home (the former Next Door American Eatery). Other upgrades include a three-way liquor license and a new bar program; a heated, dog-friendly patio; and a private dining space with its own entrance. 4573 N. College Ave., 317-820-5526, sobro .gallerypastry.com

Home to Roast

Small-batch coffee roaster Blue Mind opens a retail shop in a Midtown storefront.

IF YOU’VE BEEN tuned in to the local coffee scene for the last decade, you probably know Blue Mind Roasting for its lighter-roast, single-origin beans. It may come as a surprise that Sarah and Andy Hassler, who started roasting beans as a hobby in 2013, opened their first retail coffeehouse in late February. Fans wasted no time queuing up at Blue Mind Coffee, filling every naturalwood seat. Don’t expect dolledup lattes masking inferior beans, though. True to form, the couple’s menu of espresso drinks offers standards like cafe au laits and cortados that let the coffee shine. Chai and matcha lattes will impress tea lovers, while croissants from Leviathan Bakehouse complete the morning. 646 E. 38th St., 317-426-4030, bluemindroast ing.com —TERRY KIRTS

HEY BOO The maker of “the official beer of horror,” Scarlet Lane Brewing Company, has opened a taproom and hamburger restaurant in Irvington … OH HONEY North Carolina’s Tupelo Honey Southern Kitchen & Bar brings its comfort food to downtown Indy … LIGHT WORK Beacon Off The Path is the newest dining spot to open alongside Black Circle Brewing Company on 46th Street.

( BUZZ )

– Old Major Market’s Mark LaFay , who just opened a production hub inside the restored Roberts Dairy plant

REVISIT AND PINCH PHOTOS BY TONY VALAINIS; BUZZ PHOTO COURTESY BLUE MIND

Bone Appétit

ROASTING SPLIT BEEF BONES TRANSFORMS THE UNCTUOUS INNER MARROW INTO A MEATY DELICACY THAT SPREADS ON BREAD LIKE BUTTER. FIND ONE TO PICK AT THESE LOCAL EATERIES.

BY AMY LYNCH

Geraldine’s Supper Club & Lounge

Sourcing product from Fulton Meat Market, chef Neil Andrews seasons the marrow with sea salt and cracked black pepper before serving it with green tomato jam, crostini, and fresh watercress. 1101 English Ave., 317-6003336, geraldinesindy.com

Oakleys Bistro

Bone marrow makes a guest appearance here about once a month, usually paired with familiar ingredients like steak, salmon, chicken— even escargot—to make it more approachable for diners on the fence about ordering it. 1464 W. 86th St., 317-824-1231, oakleysbistro.com

Late Harvest Kitchen

Chef Ryan Nelson elevates crispy hand-cut fries to new levels of deliciousness by tossing them in roasted marrow butter laced with garlic, shallots, herbs, Worcestershire sauce, and jalapeño slices. 8605 River Crossing Blvd., 317-663-8063, lateharvestkitchen.com

1933 Lounge

Slow roasted marrow bones get the French onion soup treatment with a basting of caramelized onion reduction and a melty heap of Gruyere and Parmesan, arriving on the plate with savory jus and cheesy butter-slathered bread. 127 S. Illinois St., 317-635-0636; 9707 District North Dr., Fishers, 317-7581933; 1933lounge.com

Union 50

Accompanied by shaved fennel, pulled-pork jam, and garlic baguette, these beauties roasted in a brick oven deliver big flavor. Feeling extra? Order a shot of sherry or Madeira to pour down the bone like a luge after you’ve scraped out its meaty insides. 620 N. East St., 317-6100234, union-50.com

Smoking Goose

Public Smokehouse

While Goose the Market sells DIY marrow bones in its freezer, the Dorman Street retail butcher shop removes the middleman by offering ready-to-eat whipped marrow flavored with caramelized sweet onions, Meyer lemon, white wine, and ginger. 411 Dorman St., 317-6386328, smokinggoose.com

Photo by TONY VALAINIS

Tour Guide

PASSIONATE HOME COOK AND RECIPE DEVELOPER MAI NGÔ BRINGS

HER LOVE FOR VIETNAMESE CUISINE TO THE TABLE.

BY TERRY KIRTS

GROWING UP in Ho Chi Minh City in a family with roots in North Vietnam, Mai Ngô was constantly immersed in the communal foods of holidays and gatherings. Having a father who operated some of the first Japanese restaurants in Vietnam meant she was constantly exposed to world cuisines. When she was 12, her father, in an effort to convince his partner to help him open a Japanese restaurant in the capital city, took young Mai along to a business meal and ordered a table full of traditional dishes. Whatever she liked was evidence that the food would sell to the locals in Vietnam.

But food wasn’t on Ngô’s mind when she enrolled at Indiana University’s Kelley School of Business in 2012, later getting a job as a product support specialist at Cummins Inc. in Columbus. It was meeting her foodie soulmate, Maxime Lévêque, a week before the pandemic that got the pair thinking about putting their culinary

passions on the internet. Lévêque, a native of a village in northeastern France, shared a similar obsession with the dishes from back home, such as pot-au-feu and chocolate mousse, recipes he and Ngô would eventually post to YouTube and their multimedia website, MM Bon Appétit.

The pair recently paid a visit to Ngô’s home in southeastern Vietnam,

a journey organized around food. “It was a strict eating schedule of three meals a day. Sometimes it was more like five,” she says. While the couple dream about authoring a book, they are content for now to share their stories on the site. “For as long as I can remember,” Ngô says, “my parents have always told me that I have the soul of eating and drinking.”

(1) Seafood. “Whenever I travel to the coasts, it’s always my goal to see how much fresh seafood I can humanly consume.”

(2) Bando Korean Restaurant. “The food is great, and the people who work there are the sweetest.”  (3) Dumplings. “I’m currently on a kick of soup dumplings for breakfast.”  (4) Savannah, Georgia. “I love a great plate of shrimp and grits.” (5) Fish sauce wings. Get Ngô’s recipe for this savorysweet dish at IndianapolisMonthly.com

FAVORITE THINGS

FOODIE

PHOTO BY TONY VALAINIS

HOST YOUR ORGANIZATION’S NEXT SMALL-SIZED MEETING OR CONFERENCE IN HAMILTON COUNTY AND REST EASY.

In Hamilton County, we know how big a small meeting can be. Whether it’s a conference, trade show, or any other type of special event, we can comfortably accommodate all your organization’s needs. With a diverse array of gathering places—barns to boardrooms to ballrooms—more than 5,000 hotel rooms, and 30,000 sq. ft. of contiguous event space for larger events, you can rest easy when you select Hamilton County to play host.

JUST NORTH OF INDY

All In a Day

ANTILOGY, JOHNSON COUNTY’S NEW SPOT FOR BRUNCH AND EVENING COCKTAILS, OFFERS

THE BEST OF BOTH WORLDS. BY JULIA SPALDING

SOUTHSIDERS Bob Sendelbach and Willie Roegner had a specific kind of customer in mind when they hatched the idea for their Greenwood restaurant, Antilogy. The two friends who met through church were members of a men’s breakfast group that got together every Saturday. It wasn’t necessarily a Bible study, Sendelbach says. “Just five or six of us who enjoyed waking up early on the weekend and having a spot where we could sit and talk.” On date nights, they would take their wives somewhere downtown for a nice dinner. But that

was often tedious. “We would get a babysitter for three hours on a Friday night and then spend 45 minutes driving downtown to park for dinner. Then, we had to drive back home,” Sendelbach says.

Wouldn’t it be nice, they thought, if guys like them (men who brunch) had somewhere comfy yet chic on their side of town where they could meet up with friends for casual weekend coffees and avocado toasts? If they could also stop by in the evening for a bourbon flight and some parmesan truffle waffle fries or a hunk of flourless chocolate cake with balsamic-marinated strawberries, even better. So that’s the restaurant

ANTILOGY

5867 N. State Rd. 135, Greenwood, 317-530-5312, antilogycg.com

HOURS

Tues.–Thurs. 8 a.m.–4 p.m., 5–10 p.m.; Fri.–Sat. 8 a.m.–4 p.m., 5–11 p.m.; Sun. 8 a.m.–noon

VIBE

Suburban hotspot

TASTING NOTES

Brunch and coffee by day. Bourbon-based cocktails and shared plates by night.

NEIGHBORHOOD Greenwood

MUST-ORDER

The beef tenderloin Benedict or trickedout chicken and waffles with a hot and tangy Bloody Mary for brunch. In the evening, order a double-smoked Old Fashioned, some charcuterie, and the slider trio (beef tenderloin, fried chicken, and portobello).

3 STAR RATING

An everything-rimmed Bloody Mary and crispy chicken and waffles that come drizzled with both syrup and hot sauce take brunch up a notch.

Sendelbach, Roegner,

and their

wives (Rachel Sendelbach and Andrea Roegner) opened in February at the end of a Kroger-anchored strip mall in the middle of Johnson County. They focus on breakfast and brunch before 4 p.m. and shared plates and cocktails after 5 p.m. and simply left out everything that comes between the chai latte and the espresso martini—lunch specials, full dinner menu, happy hour. It’s a unique business model but not a surprising one to anyone who has cracked open their Merriam-Webster for a definition of the restaurant’s unusual name. Antilogy (noun): a contradiction in terms or ideas.

That explanation tracks. Housed in a new but nondescript corner space, this surprisingly sleek newcomer does a lot with its 3,500 square feet of real estate. Tufted leather booths line one wall that is papered in an elegant cornflower-blue print. The bar is tucked inside a cozy alcove lit by glass pendants that give off a golden glow. And some posh sofas, chairs, and low coffee tables are arranged in tasteful vignettes at the center of the room, aka “the lounge.” As in, “You are welcome to have a seat in the lounge while you wait for your table.”

You are also welcome to eat your entire meal in the lounge, awkwardly leaned over a row of spicy deviled eggs decorated with candied bacon or a plate of cornmeal-and-poblano Johnny cakes topped with cilantro crema, jalapeñoinfused syrup, and slivers of smoked Norwegian trout—while simultaneously balancing a cup of coffee sourced from Fountain Square’s Bovaconti on your knee. That was the Pilates-like

alternative we went with one Saturday morning, instead of waiting 45 minutes in the crowded vestibule for a two-top to become available.

Clearly, Sendelbach and Roegner found their customer niche, because the place was packed. Though Antilogy is the first restaurant either of them have owned, Roegner has been in the business since 1996, having worked at Texas Roadhouse and Apple American Group (an Applebee’s franchisee), and served as executive chef at Firebirds Wood Fired Grill in Carmel, and then director of operations for Barefoot Restaurant Concepts in Greenwood. He developed the menu at Antilogy after months of tinkering with dishes and ingredients in his own kitchen. He eventually arrived at this playful lineup of omelets, breakfast sandwiches, and even pancakes served charcuteriestyle on a board with various fruits, syrups, and butters. Among the Belgian waffles, a fried chicken–topped version is a deconstructed savory-sweet parfait of hand-breaded buttermilk pieces, bacon, slaw, syrup, and hot sauce.

Roegner used his mother’s recipe for the biscuits and gravy, and he plans to introduce a seasonal dish from his wife’s side of the family this summer. “It’s called tomato shortcake,”

he says. “It’s traditionally done with a homemade biscuit, but I’m going to change it to a jalapeño biscuit with garlic-cheese-thyme sauce and beefsteak tomatoes.” You expect those plot twists from someone who also thought up vanilla bourbon French toast, an addictively gooey baked spinach-and-gruyere dip, and panko-crusted crispy burrata. There are a few missteps, including oddly flavorless cheddar grits under blackened shrimp and some oversalted crostini. But the food is inventive, fun, and easy to love—even more so when paired with a frothy honey-lavender latte or a doublesmoked Old Fashioned prepared behind the bar with enough fire and flourish to make the crowd go wild.

The deviled eggs have a kick of pickled heat, and the cocktails are mostly bourbon-based at the suburban Greenwood day-to-night lounge co-owned by Bob Sendelbach, left, and Willie Roegner.

Photos by TONY VALAINIS

FISHERS REVS UP IN 2023

Fishers is no longer the sleepy suburb of decades past. It’s a bustling city with first-class entertainment and dining options, a vibrant arts and cultural district, and a quality-of-life rating that’s put it in on the map as one of the best places to live in America. Here are four things to know about this rising destination. 1

Fishers is expanding with worldclass entertainment and culinary options. With restaurants like Slapfish and Inspo by Chef Kelsey Murphy opening in the past year and Patachou Nickel Plate on the horizon, Fishers is becoming a culinary destination. The entertainment scene is no different. Set to open next year, The Fishers Event Center will host Indy Fuel games and national concert tours. Also opening in 2023 is Fishers’ first-ever arts center, and Chicken N Pickle will make its Indiana debut in Fishers in the next few years.

2

Fishers’ Nickel Plate District Amphitheater is more than just a community concert venue. The

AMP has welcomed major national touring acts like The Avett Brothers, Gov’t Mule, and Houndmouth. This summer, bands like RIPE and Snarky Puppy are set to perform.

3

Start your engines—Andretti Global Headquarters is coming to Fishers. Planning to open in 2025, the headquarters will manage all of Andretti’s commercial functions and serve as the base of operations for their NTT INDYCAR SERIES, Indy Lights, IMSA programs, and more. The facility will also house a new Museum & Innovation Center to inspire the future of motorsports.

Outdoor recreation is big. With Geist Reservoir—home of the new Geist Waterfront Park— anchoring the city in the east, and the state designated Ritchey Woods Nature Preserve to the west, Fishers boasts

4

more than 25 unique park properties. There’s the Fishers AgriPark, a 33-acre urban farm with free u-pick vegetables and flowers. The Nickel Plate Trail, a former rail line turned pedestrian path connecting north and south Fishers. And the future White River Park coming to 96th Street and Allisonville Road.

EDITED BY MEGAN FERNANDEZ

107 THINGS WE LOVE ABOUT THE

The hometown favorite, Ed Carpenter. The reigning champion, Marcus Ericsson. The first woman to qualify. The fashion. The triple pagodas. The radio experience. The bagpipers. How do we love thee, 107th running of the Indianapolis 500? Let our veteran race correspondent count the ways.

WRITTEN BY TONY REHAGEN

History 01 INDIANAPOLIS MOTOR CITY

The race that started as a testing ground for local car manufacturers is a yearly reminder that the city was once second only to Detroit in auto production. Nostalgia aside, the 500 is also a chance to take pride in the fact that we are still a world capital of motorsports—from IMS to Raceway Park to the Speedrome.

02 03 04 05

THE FOUNDING FOUR

Before 1909, most car races were conducted on public roads or on dirt or grass horse tracks. Local entrepreneur and bicycle racer Carl G. Fisher envisioned something different in the farmland west of the city—a 3-mile oval. He and three guys whose names are largely lost to history (James A. Allison, Arthur C. Newby, and Frank H. Wheeler) scaled it back to a mere 2.5-mile oval of crushed stone and tar that...

06 THE BRICKS

…would initially prove to be a disaster. That gravel-and-oil track quickly deteriorated, creating dangerous ruts that led to driver accidents and fatalities. So the owners covered the course with 3.2 million paving bricks

from the Wabash Clay Company in Veedersburg—many of which supposedly still lay beneath the pavement of the legendary Brickyard.

07 THE WING & WHEEL LOGO

The iconic logo of a flying tire that looks like something out of a psychedelic trip has been around since the start and has only seen subtle changes through the decades—mostly to the shape of the tire. (I swear, it’s changing. You saw it change, right? RIGHT?!)

THE MARMON WASP

08

Speaking of iconic, this 2,200pound six-cylinder machine is reputed to have the world’s first rearview mirror, which driver Ray Harroun used frequently to spot his competition as he won the first-ever 500 in 1911 with a blazing average speed of 74.6 miles per hour.

THE MUSEUM

09

You can see Harroun’s famous No. 32 year-round, along with other winning cars, trophies, and artifacts from the Speedway’s past—and get a bus trip around the track—at the IMS Museum.

10

THE BASEMENT COLLECTION

It took me nearly a decade to use my press credentials and considerable charm to woo my way into the museum’s basement vault where priceless vintage automobiles, former

Ray Harroun drove his No. 32 Marmon Wasp to victory during the inaugural Indianapolis 500 in 1911. Fans paid $1 for general admission into the race and picked up a copy of the program for a dime.

pace cars, and pre-war motorbikes are parked. Now, I guess just anyone can pay money to get a 30-minute VIP guided tour. I’m not bitter.

11 EDDIE RICKENBACKER

The WWI flying ace and former 500 racer bought the track from Fisher for $750,000 and made a number of improvements, including the gradual paving of the bricks.

12

THE HISTORIAN

Donald Davidson developed his encyclopedic knowledge of Indy 500 history as a teenager growing up in England. When he made his first pilgrimage to the track in 1964, he impressed so many locals that he was hired as a statistician with USAC, then the governing body of racing. He eventually became the official track historian, even teaching a motorsports history course at IUPUI. But we know and love him best for his WIBC call-in radio show, “The Talk of Gasoline Alley,” where, in his unique Hoosierized British accent, he shared not only his vast mind, but also his boundless heart for the race, the people, and the place we all hold so dear.

13 THE FASHION

While thousands of fans dress for the rigors of the day in comfortable shoes and layers, plenty embrace the occasion to create the greatest spectacle in Americana

attire—either denim and a t-shirt in varied levels of coverage, or an homage to the stars and stripes. Lady Gaga might have come the closest to establishing a classic 500 outfit, donning an all-black ensemble of cutoffs, a faded tee, and lace-up stiletto boots in 2016, when she rode shotgun with Mario Andretti to start the race. We’re still waiting for the 500’s answer to the derby hat. And it should be sunglasses.

14 15 16

THE PAGODA(S)

The most recognizable landmark at IMS came in stages. The first pagoda was built in 1913 but was intentionally burned down after the 1925 race because it was deemed too close to the cars. The second pagoda was one tier taller and stood more than three decades before being replaced by the bland, cubic, and unfortunately named Master Race Control Tower in 1957. Fortunately, tradition was restored with the rise of the sleek, 13-story third pagoda in 2000.

TONY HULMAN

17

This Terre Haute businessman didn’t just buy a dilapidated track that had sat dormant for five years during WWII and restore it to greatness. He relaunched and refined the race that would go on to take over the world and become racing’s “greatest spectacle.”

The Luminaries

The 500 has welcomed hundreds of personalities and celebrities through the decades. And every May, the race serves as a homecoming for much of this living history. Here are a few of the faces we look forward to seeing.

18 AJ FOYT

From Daytona to Le Mans, Foyt has won just about every big race there is, but this Texas transplant will forever be ours as the first four-time winner of the race. Never one to just sit in a parade and wave, Foyt continues to participate in the 500 as a car owner.

19 MARIO ANDRETTI

The patriarch of one of racing’s royal families, Mario won the 500 just once. But he remains one of the

track’s chief ambassadors, even driving celebrities and dignitaries around the oval in his famous two-seater.

20 RICK MEARS

The four-time 500 champ is now an adviser for Team Penske.

21 JOHNNY RUTHERFORD

This three-time winner has stuck around to drive the pace car and become a driver coach.

22 JANET GUTHRIE

She made history as the first woman to ever qualify for the Indy 500. While Guthrie might not frequent the track like some of these other names, her presence is always felt—especially when a female driver is on the grid.

The MONTH

Officials may have shortened 500 track time to two weeks and even added a second separate race to the beginning of the month. But make no mistake: May is a 31-day citywide holiday.

23 THE MINI

Is it the months of training?

No. Is it getting up before dawn, flipping a coin to predict the weather, then packing yourself into corrals with 30,000 other drowsy runners? Of course not. It’s not even the beautiful downtown

scenery or the chance to do a lap around the track itself. The mini marathon that serves as the unofficial green flag for the Month of May is worthwhile because, rain or shine, the entire city comes out to line every foot of the 13.3-mile course with live music, refreshments (including some adult beverages), and high fives and cheers of support for total strangers, which reminds us why we love this city.

24 REV

Proving that Hoosiers can still manage to get dolled up to commemorate May, this annual gala where the public gets to rub tuxedoed elbows with drivers dressed to the nines enters its 10th year of raising money for the IU Health Foundation.

25 GRAND PRIX

Look, it’s decidedly NOT the Greatest Spectacle in Racing (see Ed Carpenter’s take in No. 29). But the IMS road-course race gives us a reason to head to the Speedway for wheel-to-wheel action and do a dry run before Memorial Day. So, we’re not complaining.

26 HOMETOWN DRIVERS

They walk among us. They humor our starts and stares when we spot them at The Fashion Mall or Whole Foods or standing in line at Starbucks. They don’t get offended when we mistake them all for Conor Daly. In return, every May, we cheer like hell for them. Especially…

Mini-Marathon runners take to the streets of downtown Indy en route to the IMS; Janet Guthrie receives silver dollars from her sponsor after qualifying for the race in 1977; and legend Mario Andretti makes his rounds at the track.

The Homer

Ed Carpenter has always had a familial link to the Speedway. Because he embraces Indy, fans have always laid claim to him.

When Ed Carpenter was 8 years old, his stepfather asked him and his brother if they wanted to race quarter midgets. Carpenter had already been pushing the limits of driving a tractor on his family’s property, so he jumped at the opportunity. The stepfather took the boys to the parking lot of his workplace and turned them loose on some laps. The stepfather was Tony George, of course, then second-generation president and CEO of the Indianapolis Motor Speedway. And the parking lot was that of the IMS Museum, in the infield of the most storied racetrack in the world.

“When you’re a kid, you’re just taking the opportunity to race, you don’t realize how much it shapes your passion for the 500,” says Carpenter. “Looking back, growing up at the Speedway was a driving force.”

The legacy and shadow of family has been riding Carpenter’s rear bumper his entire career. But he has embraced his heritage as a drafting

partner helping to push him around the track. Today, Carpenter is 42, head of Ed Carpenter Racing, which he co-owns with George and Stuart Reed. As a driver for that team, he is preparing to qualify for his 20th consecutive Indy 500, where he has had three Top-5 finishes.

And along the way, either due to or despite his royal racing lineage, Carpenter has emerged as a perennial hometown favorite to cheer on every May. “As my career has gone on,” he says, “I can feel the support of the community.”

Carpenter’s upbringing as a prince of the Brickyard was unique. Of course, he is not the first racecar driver with family connections. Racing in any series is largely a family business full of “Jr.s” and third- and fourth-generation drivers, owners, and crewmembers with matching surnames, from Andretti to Unser, stitched into their fire suits. Carpenter is far from the only person on the paddock to ever deal with the appearance of nepotism.

“It was probably a misconception that because he was Tony George’s stepson he got preferential treatment,” says Doug Boles, Indianapolis Motor Speedway president whose own stepson, Conor Daly, now drives for Ed Carpenter Racing. “And my guess is that he put more pressure on himself because, at the end of the day, it was going to be what he could deliver from behind the wheel that mattered.”

But being Tony George’s stepson carried its own extra baggage because George wasn’t exactly the universally beloved custodian of IMS (that was Carpenter’s step-great-grandfather, George’s grandpa Tony Hulman). George was a polarizing figure that drew the ire of fans and many in the sport when, as IMS president, he broke from CART and formed the Indy Racing League in 1996. The move essentially created “The Split” that divided American open-wheel racing and led to more than a decade of decline from which the since reunified series has never fully recovered.

That was before Carpenter’s time, while he was still in high school racing midgets and sprints. While also going to college at Butler, he rose to race in Indy Lights, the new feeder series for IRL in 2002. By this time the dust from The Split had mostly settled—but plenty of resentment lingered. Carpenter, 21 and a fresh college grad, just wanted to race. “For me, having Tony was a huge benefit,” says Carpenter. “He’s extremely knowledgeable about the sport. It was hard at times because there’s an expectation with my family’s experience in the sport, but that never really bothered me. There’s nothing you can do about it. I just tried to take advantage of the opportunities I had.”

At the end of a successful sophomore season in Indy Lights under the tutelage and ownership of none other than A.J. Foyt (which included a win

PHOTO BY JOHN BRAGG

at Indy in the inaugural Freedom 100, three weeks after getting his Butler degree), Carpenter got the call up to finish the IRL season with PDM Racing. After his first full season in the big leagues with Red Bull Cheever Racing, he accepted a ride with Vision Racing, the controversial new team owned by George, who was still president and CEO of both IMS and the IRL. Carpenter just kept his head in the cockpit and grabbed his first Top 5 at the 500 in 2008.

Two years later, Vision Racing lost its sponsors and was forced to close shop. Carpenter moved over to Sarah Fisher Racing, owned by the popular nine-time 500 starter, where he won his first IndyCar race at Kentucky. In 2012, he and George started Ed Carpenter Racing. Since then, it has been a calendar patchwork of putting together seasons as driver and/or owner, including six IndyCar wins (two with himself behind the wheel), and a Top-5 series standing finish for Josef Newgarden in 2016.

But through it all Carpenter has managed to find himself happily behind the wheel at Indy each May. He’s won the pole three times, including 2018, when he led the most laps (65) until Will Power pulled in front and pulled away, beating Carpenter by more than 3 seconds. That chasm of time felt like a blink to Carpenter, who had never finished higher than fifth. “Finishing second is hard,” he says. “When you think about a 500mile race and analyze all the things that happened … it’s demoralizing to know that you were that close, and it’s so hard to put yourself in that position. On the flipside, you’ve got that experience to draw from in the future. You learn from that.”

Perhaps that boundless optimism is why Carpenter is one of Indy’s favorite sons. Maybe it’s also because the only thing local racing devotees love more than a winner is a driver who comes up just short and keeps trying—year after year for 20 years.

Carpenter’s secure status as Brickyard darling might also have something to do with the fact that he’s ours, not only because his family’s roots run so deep and storied here, but because he has chosen to plant himself and his family here, too. After all, he stayed here for college, then a career as a driver, then as an owner.

But in the end, perhaps the most impressive thing about Carpenter is that he doesn’t just live and work here—he understands Indianapolis and its love for this race and this place. “At the public drivers’ meetings, nobody gets more cheers than Ed Carpenter,” says Boles. “Our fans know that the most important thing in the world to Ed is winning the Indianapolis 500. They grew up watching him grow into a racecar driver. They love him because he loves the race like they do.”

And even though Carpenter has a clear hereditary claim to those bricks, he is happier sharing it with the city. “Part of what makes this race so special is that everyone has a connection to it,” he says. “It’s not just drivers, but generations of fans. In the garages, you’ll hear stories from old men whose dad or grandad brought them to the track at age 6. Everyone feels connected to it. I’ve never really felt it means more to me. It means so much to everyone. It’s been part of our community. That’s what’s magical. When you’re there, everyone feels like a part of it.”

—TONY REHAGEN

27 28 29 30

ED CARPENTER AND HIS TOP 3 TRADITIONS

“The parade is an annual favorite. I remember getting to ride in the parade as a child with my family. Now, my whole family gets to actively participate.” “Opening Day is always fun. We’re on track for the first time in almost a year. All the fans are there. I mean, the Grand Prix is a good event. But it’s not the 500 (with all due respect to No. 25).” “Starting the race. And seeing where it goes from there.”

31 BUMP DAY

We didn’t know how much we missed Bump Day until they took it from us in 2014. Thankfully, they moved the bumping procedure back to the second day of time trials in 2019—restoring our blessed Day of Bump.

32 CARB DAY

Want to relive the 500’s glory years of the 1970s? Just come to the Carb Day concert and watch acts like Rick Springfield, Foreigner, Kool & the Gang, Journey, and Steve Miller Band.

33 LAST ROW PARTY

Annual proof that Indy doesn’t just love a winner.

PARADE PHOTO BY TONY VALAINIS

Being Tony George’s stepson carried its own extra baggage because George wasn’t exactly the universally beloved custodian of IMS.

34 PLAYING HOOKY FOR A RANDOM PRACTICE

If you set an out-of-office reply, it doesn’t count. Go on Fast Friday, one of the speediest days of the month, when some drivers pay hooky themselves by sandbagging to avoid showing how much power they are pulling.

35 THE TWO-SEATER

Riding shotgun around the famed oval costs $500 and feels like your neck will snap if you turn your head. Imagine real race conditions—going up to 180 miles per hour sitting atop a Dallara chassis. The IndyCar Experience gives you an understanding for the sport better than anything else can.

36 THE NEW SPEEDWAY MAIN STREET

The Speedway founders’ vision for a lively (horse-free) town near the track took about 100 years to come to fruition, and now Main Street between 10th and 16th streets buzzes with shiny restaurants and shops befitting the Speedway’s world-renowned status. From the posh new Foyt Wine Vault to the old-timey Charlie Brown’s Pancake & Steak House, it’s a racing destination that couldn’t exist anywhere else.

37 BADGES

As a lifelong collector of press credentials and badges, I can attest that no event surpasses the 500 in terms of quality. But as nice as the lanyards and cards are, it’s the pit badges (gold, silver, or bronze—often commemorating a specific moment or occasion, such as Tom Carnegie’s last year as announcer or the 50th anniversary of Mario Andretti’s 500 win) that bring out the collectors.

38 GASOLINE ALLEY

Aside from the Yard of Bricks, it’s probably the most famous part of the Speedway. For most of the Month of May, it’s the best place to get a close look at your favorite driver, car, and team at work. You just don’t want to see them there during the race.

THE OLD SNAKE PIT

39

What happened in the Old Snake Pit stayed in the Old Snake Pit. Suffice it to say that alcohol (and perhaps some other substances) was consumed, clothes were often optional, and when it rained, there were mudslides. At least we’re pretty sure it was mud.

40 THE NEW SNAKE PIT

Some people just come for the EDM concert, others stay for the race. And still others don’t realize they’re at either.

41 THE YELLOW SHIRTS

Have fun at the race—but don’t act up too much. These security guards take their jobs very seriously (so it’s probably a good thing they ditched the pith helmets).

THE COKE LOT

42

For campers who like their parties to last more than one day.

Despite that fact, the lot is named for the soda—we swear.

43 PORK TENDERLOIN SANDWICH

I mean, you just gotta.

44 AVOIDING PEANUTS

Legend has it that there was a fatal accident in the 1940s, and crew members found peanut shells in the cockpit of the twisted wreck. Ever since, goobers at the race have been strictly taboo. Good riddance, they’re a mess anyway.

45 COOLERS AND BYOB

Strapped to your back, slung over your shoulder, pulled on wheels behind you, or carried in tandem with a pal, the cooler you pack to the race is as essential as your ticket. Just remember to leave a little room to bring a snack or sandwich to soak up some of that beer.

46 IU HEALTH EMERGENCY MEDICAL CENTER

If things get too far out of hand (or in case of freak accidents), there is free care for fans and drivers during the race.

47

THE RED CARPET

The most celebrity-rich

TENDERLOIN AND SNAKEPIT PHOTOS BY TONY VALAINIS; YELLOW SHIRT BY MICHAEL ROTH, COURTESY IMS

environment in the city all year attracts movie stars and musicians who, by the time they have reached the carpet outside the pagoda, have soaked up the race excitement and can barely contain their own. It’s a magically unjaded moment.

48 DAVID LETTERMAN

Sure he’s a world-famous comedian and late-night TV legend. But the fact that he always used his platform to celebrate the 500 champion and that he blocks off every Month of May from his celebrity schedule to return as a team owner and compete in the 500 reminds us that he once was a lanky, gap-toothed Hoosier from Broad Ripple High School who loved—and most importantly STILL loves—this event.

49 PEOPLE-WATCHING AT PAGODA PLAZA

Talk about the Crossroads of America. This spot is the confluence of everyone from the super-famous to the super-rich to the super-fan. Keep track of them all with this handy checklist of the characters you’ll spot on any given race day:

50 TURN 2

One of the fastest places on the oval, just as cars are accelerating out of the short-shoot, this vantage also offers one of the few views of the entire track.

51 BACKYARD RADIO PARTIES

(See p. 47)

52 SLANG

Listening to the folks in the pits and garages talk makes you think you’re on a different planet. Interestingly, a lot of IndyCar lingo revolves around tires. Like when you’ve got slicks on and want to be sure they’re at the correct camber and toe settings (not to be confused with “tow”) to maximize grip, while at the same time watching for blisters on the tread.

53 MEET ME ON LAP 180

It’s a big track and a long day. You don’t have to spend every waking hour together. So pick a rendezvous spot (the pagoda, the media center, the museum parking lot, Turn 3, etc.) and make sure you catch the checkered flag (and the mass exodus) with the ones that brung ya.

54 SUN PROTECTION

As cool as the tube-top, cutoff tan is, melanoma is not. Please: SPF 30 or above. And don’t forget to hit the ears and nose and reapply at least once or twice throughout the day.

55 URINAL TROUGHS

For decades, the infield bathrooms were the site of unspeakable horrors. Good on track owner Roger Penske and president Doug Boles for cleaning it up. Good on them, too, for keeping the urinal trough tradition. (Not so good on them for trying to monetize the decision with those commemorative trough t-shirts.)

56 MERCH

The bounty ranges from the usual hats and t-shirts to essentials like noise-canceling headphones and beercan koozies to kitsch like Christmas ornaments, golf balls, and license-plate frames. Every year we tell ourselves we have enough junk at home. But honestly, who couldn’t use another dog scarf?

Pre-race

Traditions

57 6 A.M. BOMB TO OPEN THE TRACK

If anyone in the vicinity was hoping to sleep in, sorry. It’s race day.

58 PURDUE MARCHING BAND

This pre-race tradition has our favorite origin story: In 1919, a group of Purdue students looking to earn credit toward military training (and get into the race for free) showed up with their band instruments and played. More than a century later, these Boilermaker musicians are as inseparable from the 500 as the checkered flag.

59 500 FESTIVAL QUEEN/PRINCESSES

It’s not about the tiaras and sashes; it’s about scholarships, community outreach and philanthropy, and acting as ambassadors for the race.

60 BORG-WARNER TROPHY

At 110 pounds of sterling silver, this is more monument than trophy. It’s a wonder the exhausted winner can lift it—a testament to adrenaline. Race day is one of the few times the Borg-Warner is touched by flesh, not white gloves.

61 DRIVER INTRODUCTIONS

Let’s face it: IndyCar drivers aren’t exactly household names anymore. For every Andretti and Foyt, there are dozens of names and faces that are largely anonymous, even in Indy. Except for this moment. As the 33 drivers walk from the pagoda, past

the whooping and screaming fans, and onto a stage to wave as their names are announced, they are rock stars.

62 “BACK HOME AGAIN IN INDIANA”

Sing along. Even if you don’t know all the words.

63 64 NATIONAL ANTHEM AND FLYOVER

The fact that this is Memorial Day weekend makes these traditions even more important.

65 INVOCATION

It’s also Sunday—this’ll cover you for missing church (if you practice).

66 BAGPIPERS

On Gasoline Alley, the drone of bagpipes and the sharp beat of snare drums are just as familiar as revving engines and howling IndyCars. For 60 years, the Indianapolis 500 Gordon Pipers have provided the background music at the Brickyard.

67 TAPS

In the midst of hundreds of thousands of people, a moment of absolute stillness pierced by the mournful call of bugles matches the sheer power of 33 ripping high-performance engines.

68 “GENTLEMEN, START YOUR ENGINES”

If you don’t cry during taps, you will now. Then you hear the roar, and it rattles your bones. Racing purists jump up and down, pumping their fists toward the sky. It’s pure, unbridled excitement.

BROADCAST NETWORK

Listening parties dial in a new sense of connection to the race.

We were in the IMS infield, somewhere between the bathrooms and Turn 3 as Dario Franchitti was about 75 laps into his dominant 2010 win, when my childhood friend visiting from our native Missouri turned to me and shouted something like, “Well, I have experienced the Indy 500!”

I smiled, drained the warm remnants of my beer, and crushed the can in my hand.

“Not completely,” I said, throwing the crumpled aluminum into our cooler and picking up the empty plastic chest. “Let’s go.” We headed toward the parking lot. It was time to show my buddy how most Hoosiers experience the Greatest Spectacle in Racing: on the radio.

When I’d first arrived in Indy in 2005, more than a few local traditions left me a little perplexed. (Can’t y’all bake sandwich buns as big as that freakin’ tenderloin?) But none of the strange rituals seemed as silly and self-defeating as annually blacking out the television broadcast of your city’s signature event— especially one that, let’s face it, had come to mean much more to locals than it did to the outside world.

Like most Americans born after World War II, I had been conditioned to watch sports on TV, especially the big events. The Super Bowl. The World Series. The Final Four. And, thanks to ABC’s Wide World of Sports and the fact that I was born in Missouri, the Indianapolis 500. To me, the race was the towering pagoda and the numbers lit up in yellow on the monolithic pole. It was bright, colorful flags and cars blurred by speed and the heat waves rising from the sweltering pavement. It was the recognizable faces of Rick Mears and Al Unser Jr. and Michael Andretti and the anonymous mob in the grandstands.

During my first couple years in the city, my job with this magazine required me to attend the race in person, at which point I obtained a new sense of the 500: feeling.

Arriving first thing in the morning, emerging from the tunnel, and entering into the quiet and mostly empty Speedway, you feel the weight of history. As the grandstands and infield fill with 250,000 rabid race fans, you feel the mass of humanity on top of you. And when the call goes out and 33 engines stir to life and accelerate around the track, down the straightaway, and through the green flag, opening the throttle and shaking the hallowed ground, you feel that horsepower in your bones.

Once I finally got a Memorial Day weekend off-duty from reporting, my first impulse was to ignore the race altogether. After all, I couldn’t watch it on TV, and I wasn’t sure we even owned a radio. But on that Sunday, as soon as I stepped outside my Broad Ripple home, I could hear the fuzzy broadcast in stereo coming from several neighbors’ porches and yards. The voice of Mike King echoed down quiet 64th Street, vividly setting the scene, describing images and rituals I knew well. Initially, my mind reached back to my childhood in rural Missouri listening to Cardinals baseball on my little shortwave. I ran inside and found a little boombox my wife had owned in college and dialed in to WIBC.

Nostalgia is certainly a key part of the 500 radio experience—but it’s far from the whole of the appeal. Once the cars began buzzing like wasps across the airwaves and King started frantically handing off to announcers stationed in the turns and in the pits, air wrenches whizzing beneath their elevated voices, I was amazed at how quickly the sound enveloped me and transported me to the Speedway. Yet at the same time, I was untethered in a way that TV doesn’t allow, free to roam and fire up the grill and chat across the fence with my neighbors and run inside to get another beer, as long as I stayed within earshot. If I did pull my mind out of the immersion to focus on another conversation, King frequently ran down the order to update me on exactly what was going on, frankly more quickly than if I was in the infield and had to process the flashing numbers on the pole.

But it was those moments when my mind wasn’t completely occupied with the race that were the most magical. Because in those moments, the race became the soundtrack to other, more indelible memories. It became context for that announcement from a family member or that secret whispered from a friend. Instead of just another year’s race, the 500 worked its way into crucial life moments.

In 2010, my friend experienced this firsthand when we arrived at my neighbor’s yard party with about 20 laps to go. By this point, the gathering of two dozen or so people had broken up into separate pools, one grazing at the food table, another huddled around a guitar…but when the white flag waved, everyone returned to the radio to listen to Franchitti cross the Yard of Bricks. Everyone cheered, even those who had no idea who Franchitti was. And the party continued into the night without anyone ever sitting sweaty and exhausted in traffic to get home. —TONY REHAGEN

…And Ladies

69 JANET GUTHRIE

(See also No. 22, because she deserves twice the recognition) First female to qualify and start the race, 1977.

70 LYN ST. JAMES

1992 Indy 500 Rookie of the Year.

71 SARAH FISHER

Nine-time 500 starter (tied with St. James for the most by a female driver), first to win a pole position for an IndyCar Series race. She’ll also drive the pace car this year.

72 DANICA PATRICK

First female to lead the 500 and win an IndyCar Series race. She has the highest Indy 500 starting position (4th) and finishing position (3rd).

73 MILKA DUNO

Made 43 IndyCar Series starts, including three 500s, with a best finish of 19th.

74 ANA BEATRIZ

Two-time winner in Indy NXT (formerly IndyLights). Made four Indy 500 starts with a best finish of 15th.

75 SIMONA DE SILVESTRO 2010 Indy 500 Rookie of the Year.

76 PIPPA MANN

First female driver to win a pole at the IMS (2010 Freedom 100).

77 KATHERINE LEGGE

Started the 500 twice. As of publishing time, she’s the only female driver currently entered in the 2023 Indy 500.

In Memoriam

78 JIM NABORS

We’ll never not hear his voice in our heads when “Back Home Again in Indiana” is sung.

79 FLORENCE HENDERSON

Not to be outshined by her fellow mid-century TV-star-turnedIndy-icon, Mrs. Brady performed 23 times at IMS, singing everything from the anthem to “America the Beautiful” to “God Bless America.” In 2016, she got to be Grand Marshal, her last appearance at the Speedway before her death later that year.

80 TOM CARNEGIE

No doubt drivers will continue to make history at the Speedway. But no one will ever set a “New track record!” again.

81 THE UNSER BROTHERS

Al and Bobby Unser remain the only brothers to both win the race. Together with Al Jr., they grabbed a dynastic nine 500 wins. More than that, they remained ambassadors of the race long after they retired.

82 MARI HULMAN GEORGE

She’ll be forever known as the person who signaled drivers (and fans) to “start your engines,” but the former chairperson of IMS had a much more profound impact behind the scenes as caretaker of the race, the Speedway, and as one of the 500s most passionate fans.

83 THE OLD MOTEL

Drivers and pop-culture stars—even the Beatles—were treated to the unpretentious environs of the Indianapolis Motor Speedway Motel built in 1963, many staying in the same rooms each year. It closed in the late

2000s—although there are still hotelstyle suites in the base of the Turn 2 grandstands, where VIPs and some IMS staff stay the night before the race so they don’t get stuck in traffic

84 ROBIN MILLER

A chronicler of more than 50 years of racing history and one of the strongest voices in the sport, perhaps the most impressive thing about Miller was that he always had time for an aspiring journalist who was new to the press box.

85 DAN WHELDON

Unfortunately, racing is a deadly sport. But while other great drivers have perished while chasing the checkers, none had a passion for the Indy 500 outpacing that of this native Brit. He finished his career with two second-place Indy finishes with underdog Panther Racing and then the unforgettable win in the final 1,000 feet of the 2011 race, for his second Borg-Warner—and the last win of his abbreviated career. He was 33.

86 LARRY BISCEGLIA

The auto mechanic attended his first race in 1926, and in 1950, after two second-place finishes, he took the checkered flag—as the earliest arrival at the gate on the morning of the race. He soon became famous as the first fan in line for decades, and his 1951 Chevy truck covered in decals was the Marmon Wasp of the infield. Ford gave him a brand-new van in 1967, and Bisceglia also covered it with racing stickers. He donated the Ford to the IMS Hall of Fame Museum before passing away in 1988 at the age of 90.

ST. JAMES AND UNSER PHOTOS COURTESY IMS

The Race

87 THE GREEN FLAG

It’s go time! (Nevermind the fact that the fans have been “going” since 6 a.m.—or earlier.)

88 THE FIRST PIT STOP

This is when things start to get interesting. A single slip-up in the pits can erase leads and dash dreams in less than a second.

89 THE FIRST CAUTION

Yellow flag: When race fans can rush to the bathroom for THEIR first pit stop.

90 THE INTERNATIONAL FLAIR

(See last year’s winner, p. 50)

91 92 93

MARCUS ERICSSON’S FAVORITE INDY 500 THINGS

Driver Intros “When you go up on stage and are presented to the crowd, you look around and all you see is a sea of people. It gets me so pumped up!” The People/ Community “Seeing all the fans and meeting them. For me, that’s what the 500 is all about.” Race-Day Morning “There’s just something special about it.”

94 THE LAST LAP

Sometimes the white flag drops on a mad dash to the finish, other times it’s essentially a victory lap for a dominant winner, but for fans it signals …

95 THE FINISH LINE

…the (almost) always satisfying conclusion to a long day.

MARCUS ERICSSON

Growing up in Sweden, the 2022 champion remembers feeling inspired watching fellow countryman Kenny Brack win the 1999 Indy 500. Now, as a Borg-Warner winner himself, Ericsson hopes to motivate young drivers all over the globe.

WHAT WAS YOUR FIRST INTRODUCTION TO THE INDY 500?

I remember the 500 from an early age growing up in the 1990s. Kenny Brack was very big in Sweden. I remember watching the 500 with my dad on TV because of Kenny. Since then, it was always in my head.

WHAT DID IT MEAN AS A RACER COMING UP IN SWEDEN TO SEE A FELLOW COUNTRYMAN LIKE BRACK WINNING THAT LEGENDARY RACE?

It meant a lot. It’s all about having dreams as a kid. When you’re pursuing a career, you want to dream big and see someone go on the journey you’re about to go on yourself. Seeing Kenny succeeding in America let me know that it was possible.

THE 500 AND INDYCAR ARE GRADUALLY BECOMING MORE AND MORE INTERNATIONAL AGAIN. HOW IMPORTANT IS THAT FOR GROWING THE SPORT AND THE RACE ACROSS THE GLOBE? It’s important. Growing up in Europe, my

natural career path was in European series with Formula 1 as our main goal. I achieved that and was very proud. But it didn’t work out the way I’d hoped. There, it’s all about what team you’re on. So, I started to look to IndyCar and the 500. When my contract was up in F1, I told my manager we needed to look at options in IndyCar.

WHAT WAS IT ABOUT THE 500 THAT APPEALED TO YOU?

The competitiveness. It’s essentially a onespec series. Everyone has a chance to win. For me that was a big thing to come over and show both myself and the world that I could win and be successful. And to do the 500, the biggest race in the world, was a big goal. One of the first things I did when I signed with Schmidt Peterson Racing at the end of 2018 was go to the Speedway. It was winter, and it was snowing. But I remember being blown away by the size of the place. It was overwhelming. I remember going to the top of the pagoda and looking around. “Wow,” I thought. “This place is so big. I couldn’t imagine it full on race day.”

WHAT WAS IT LIKE WHEN YOU FINALLY SAW IT ON RACE DAY?

I knew it was the biggest race in the world, but being from Europe, I didn’t really understand how big and how much it means to people. So that first Month of May changed the way I saw the 500—the history, the speeds, the meaning for people. It’s truly a unique event. I had goosebumps all day. I was blown away.

WHAT WAS IT LIKE TO ACTUALLY WIN THREE YEARS LATER?

It’s a life-changing thing. I will always be an Indy 500 champion. To be in that exclusive club, I’m still pinching myself over that. Every other race, you win and you celebrate for a day or two. This is the win that keeps on giving—a yearlong celebration.

AND WHAT WAS IT LIKE TO TAKE THE TROPHY HOME TO SWEDEN?

When I was able to bring the Borg-Warner trophy to my hometown in Sweden, it was so special. To see how big it was for all those people who came out to see me and celebrate; that was super special.

The Aftermath

96 97 98 99

HELIO’S SPIDERMAN CLIMBS

100 KISSING THE BRICKS

One of the first things the winner does with their family and the whole team. Nevermind that those bricks have just been driven on 200 times by more than two dozen sets of melting tires.

101 MILK

Nothing like a shower of milk on a simmering May day in Indianapolis (at least it’s not buttermilk, like Louis Meyer drank when he started the tradition in 1936).

102 WINNER’S WREATH

The wreaths have been around since at least 1960, once designed by an Indy florist who had also consulted for the Rose Bowl parade. But recent wreaths feature a more exotic bloom: 33 Cymbidium orchids, one for each car in the starting grid.

103 104 BABY BORG AND CHAMPIONSHIP RING

As we mentioned, the Borg-Warner is heavy (see No. 60). These are much more portable and practical tokens of achievement.

105 VOLUNTEER CLEANUP

Let’s just take this opportunity to thank these kind and brave souls— and remind everyone else to pack out their trash.

106 SITTING IN TRAFFIC (no, really)

It’s been a long day, a long weekend, and a long month. You’re hot, you’re exhausted. This is a chance to

decompress and slowly (and we mean sloooooowly) pull away from the sea of humanity. Look at the bright side, most of us don’t have to go to work in the morning.

107 THE PRESS TOUR

A whirlwind day-and-a-half press tour of NYC. From the New York Times to the Today Show, Indy owns the media cycle.

Road block

By Nancy Hill

THE FIRST TIME I slid behind the wheel of a convertible, I drove fast and fell in love. Screaming around the curves as my shoulder wedged into the door, I pushed my body and the pedal to the limit. I was 8 years old—in a topless red metal car clamped to a track on my favorite ride at Riverside Amusement Park, the Turnpike. For three whole minutes, I was queen of the Indianapolis Motor Speedway, 1958.

Growing up, I liked driving anything that moved—boats, bikes, cars, horses, even tractors. An uncle said we could slowly drive the rusty, old Ford 8N tractor around the barn, which my obedient cousins, 10 and 12, did. Then it was my turn. I headed for a newly plowed field and hit the throttle, bouncing over the deep furrows. Ann and Melanie, sitting on the fenders, were nearly jettisoned.

My love of cars and speed was visceral, fueled by a city laser-focused on auto racing in May and a century of car manufacturing that was the state’s lifeblood. My dad taught my brother and me the makes and models of American cars like some dads teach their kids how to pitch baseballs—’57 Bel Air,

How a sweet, stolen, temperamental 1974 import drove me from despair to adventure.

’60 Caddy, Buick Roadmaster, Ford Falcon, ’64 GTO, Corvette Stingray. I got my driver’s license the very day I turned 15-and-a-half and drove my mom’s ’59 Pontiac Bonneville with long, brown tail fins and a cracked dash (because you had to hit it, hard, to make the radio work). Later, I drove her cream-colored Rambler station wagon whose wipers slowed when you accelerated.

My first car cost $200—a pale-green 1962 VW Beetle nicknamed Lima Bean. It had a cream Bakelite steering wheel and one tinny dash speaker that belted out Eric Clapton’s “Layla” as I sped 70 miles an hour down the interstate. When it died, I found a ’65 bug, a recovered theft with a permanent scent of vomit. After college, I had a short-lived Opel Kadett, then a black 1965 Mustang convertible that would die in the middle of intersections. Flawed, fickle, and cheap defined the cars of my youth. So, it was ironic when, at 24, I got the best car of my life—a 1974 Saab 99—and I was too afraid to drive it.

THE TROUBLE all began during the oil embargo and severe gas shortage of the early 1970s. American cars were big and thirsty. Like a lot of people, I was on a waiting list for a new economy model, a toaster-sized Honda Civic. Mud brown. One day my dad called and offered me a Saab that had been stolen, brand-new,

from a dealership in Lafayette, driven to Chicago, crashed, and abandoned. Dad owned a business that sold wrecked cars for insurance companies, and occasionally a recovered theft with minimum damage came through.

“It needs some body work,” Dad admitted, “but it’s a good car for a great price.” In other words, a steal.

I had to decide between a wrecked car available now and my cute little toaster that might not arrive for months.

“What color is it?” I asked.

“Orange.”

I weakened.

Dad drove the Saab over to my Pennsylvania Street apartment. Sure enough, the outside was fixed perfectly. Sleek and bright—a motorized pumpkin.

“Sunset Orange,” the color was called.

Opening the door, I took in the choco-

RIDING INTO THE SUNSET

Hill’s orange Saab took her on adventures with friends, to places near and far, such as West Palm Beach, Cape Cod, and even the Perrysville Fun Dayz pig roast (below).

late nylon-velour seats, high-tech dials on the instrument panel, and woodgrain trim on the dash. It was cool! It was European! It had front-wheel drive, a heated driver’s seat, and, best of all, a Blaupunkt radio and cassette player, the same sound system used by Mercedes, Porsche, and BMW. The outside was flawless, but the inside was not—halfempty boxes of stale fries on the floor and streaks of dried, milky dirt on the seats, even a dark hair stuck in the cream headliner. A hair that belonged to the felon who had driven my beautiful car. But with a scrub brush and plenty of all-purpose cleaner, I liberated my car from its recent past, erasing, I hoped, not just soil, but the bad intentions and careless treatment she endured.

Friends complimented my Saab’s engineering, lines, and brightness, and

I took the praise personally, becoming for the moment someone hip enough to own such a car. But I didn’t feel hip. Not at all. My life looked fairly colorful and sleek. I had a great apartment, a good job, interesting friends, and a trim figure that attracted admirers. We drank and danced with Duke Tumatoe & The AllStar Frogs at the Patio in Broad Ripple and were rowdy regulars at the Red Key. But no one knew I felt like the elephant man, hiding a shameful secret—I had panic attacks. Alone in my apartment, I often cried with sadness and despair. The hair was still in the headliner. Like my new Saab, my insides were a mess.

MY FIRST CAME in 1971 as I was flying 40,000 feet above the Atlantic Ocean in a BOAC VC10, on my way to study in England. It was my first trip out of the country and earlier that day I said a tearful goodbye to my boyfriend and parents, furiously packed for six weeks in four hours, flew to New York, and found the bus from LaGuardia to JFK, all having quit smoking that morning because I’d heard it was expensive overseas. The flight attendant dimmed the lights and suddenly my heart raced. Ice water surged through my arms and legs. I was short of breath. My entire body vibrated. I thought I would suffocate, pass out, die. Whatever it was—and I had no idea what it was—I was not sure I would recover.

The most I could admit to my professor was, “I don’t feel so good.” She gave me two Dramamine, and I was knocked out until London. Two weeks later, another panic attack happened in the

dark, claustrophobic Madame Tussauds wax museum, and then while I was locked in a train car in the belly of a Channel ferry. I worked hard to look calm, but inside I felt I would implode, a feeling so awful it cemented my fear of having a panic attack anywhere I felt trapped, helpless, and alone.

Back home, I graduated from college and got an apartment and a job, the usual hallmarks of progress. But I was hobbled—afraid to fly, ride an elevator alone, drive in heavy traffic, travel on remote roads, get lost, or be by myself away from home. When my friends and I sat on the steps of the Historic Dorchester Apartments after work, drinking Gallo Hearty Burgundy, someone would talk about setting off with a backpack for Europe (alone!) or moving to another city for a new job (alone!) and I thought: I could pull my lower lip over my forehead easier than do that.

Today, we know that one-third of all Americans have a panic attack in their lifetimes. But in the early 1970s, panic disorder wasn’t anywhere in the mental health lexicon. Doctors called it “stress” or “nerves,” and there was no effective recognized treatment, so reaching out to my family doctor didn’t help. He thought I was feeling the usual pressures of making my way in the adult world (of course, I was!) and threw Valium at me. The first pill gave me a wooziness I hated, so I tossed the bottle. Desperately wanting an explanation and solution, I felt lost.

In my early 20s, no one talked about panic attacks, not even my mother who had several. Once, when I was about 5, while traveling on a rural road to visit my grandmother in Fort Wayne, Mom suddenly pulled over, cut the engine, and told my older brother and me to get out of the car. We stood in the

gravel as she crawled into the back seat and lay prone, arm over her forehead, moaning, “Oh, my God! Oh, my God!” She did not say, “Don’t worry, kids. I just need some time and I’ll be okay.” She seemed terrified about feeling so helpless, so I felt helpless—and terrified. This woman was not our mother who took care of us. We were alone in the world—at 5 and 7.

Later, when I asked her about the incident, she claimed that she’d had a migraine. Panic and shame, I learned, went hand in glove.

FOR TWO YEARS I kept severe panic attacks at bay through carefully managed avoidance. But a few months after I got my kick-ass orange Saab, I had a bad one, and my first in a car. Stopped in traffic on a sweltering summer evening under a dark overpass on Madison Avenue, I suddenly couldn’t breathe. My heart banged in my chest. My arms and legs felt cold and weak. As I wept, my mind raced through options. Knock on the window of the car beside me for help? Leapfrog through traffic to an open road? But our lane started moving and somehow I made it the next 10 minutes to my parents’ house in Southport. My face was still red and wet when I walked inside.

“Oh, honey,” my mom came right to me. “What’s wrong?”

“That big overpass. We were totally stuck. I just lost it.”

“Here, let’s sit down. Want a ginger ale?”

She turned off David Brinkley and we sat, her gently probing. “Do you think you’re sick? Did something happen?”

How could I explain what happened when I couldn’t understand it myself? The intensity of my panic settled into a black ooze of failure and sadness.

“Could I stay here tonight, Mom?” I asked.

“Of course. Maybe you’ll feel better after you sleep.”

Soon my dad came home and went into the CONTINUED ON PAGE 67

No one knew I felt like the elephant man, hiding a shameful secret— I had panic attacks.

Everyday barriers such as reliable transportation, language and employment prevent many young families from accessing care throughout Central Indiana. Smiles like this one remind us that the work to remove these barriers is worth the investment.

Eskenazi Health was recently named Indiana’s #1 hospital for community benefit and health equity by the Lown Institute. Thanks in part to community partners and philanthropy, we are helping families get beyond barriers.

eskenazihealthfoundation.org

DECORATORS’ SHOW HOUSE AND GARDENS

A New Chapter

DESIGNERS UPDATE A HISTORIC HOME FOR A MODERN LIFESTYLE WHILE HONORING ITS REMARKABLE PAST. by

THE THREE-STORY HOME at 57 East 57th Street, known as the Failey House, was built lovingly in 1928 and served as shelter to members of the Failey family until 2010. Today, this brick Tudor in the Meridian-Kessler neighborhood is where Eugene C. Hsiao, M.D., lives with his wife, Tomi, and their children. It is also the site of the 62nd anniversary St. Margaret’s Hospital Guild Decorators’ Show House and Gardens tour.

This year’s talented designers have successfully retained the charm and character of the original home while transforming it to fit a modern family’s lifestyle.

“There’s a lot of specialness to this house,” says Kerry Caito, St. Margaret’s Hospital Guild Decorator Chair. “It’s not often we have a home with such large rooms to design.”

Shari Held

Mark your calendar for the 2023 tour, scheduled for April 29 through May 14. Visit showhouseindy.org for details about the show and affiliated events, such as the Dash for the Past 5K Run on April 15 and an Evening with the Designers on April 19.

ORIGINAL CHARACTER

As you approach the home, the first things you’ll notice are its unusual orientation (sideways to the street), the Victorian-style iron fence, and an iron lamppost that came from the Michigan State Capitol. You’ll enter the house under the same arbor and through the original iron door the Faileys once used.

Newer additions to the backyard of the property include a hot tub, swimming pool, and a garage expansion that reused 4,000

bricks from the original house, along with 500 new bricks woven seamlessly into the pattern.

The home is steeped in history. During the tour, look for original details like distinctive doorknobs, two servant pulls (in the living room and dining room/sitting area) and a bell in the back hall, iron flowerpot holders on the staircase landings, a built-in Victorian bookcase in the style of the Eastlake period in the upstairs hallway, and brass sconces above the living-room fireplace that once hung in The Hermitage, President Andrew Jackson’s home. And you won’t want to miss the vintage telephone room off the main hallway.

LOCAL ARTISTRY

Much of the art on display comes from local artists. Pieces of note include two large paintings in the living room by H. Ward Miles. Artwork in the combined dining room and sitting area is from Studio C Arts Collective, such as Faith Blackwell’s portrait of a woman above the fireplace, which was custom colored to match the blue-and-orange kitchen palette. She also created the giant, brightly colored Oreo cookies arranged on an acrylic tray.

DINING ROOM AND SITTING AREA by Kittle’s Design Studio

PHOTO BY THE ADDISON GROUP

A modern painting in the study is the work of abstract artist Phil O’Malley. The upperlevel parlor showcases a cloud painting in shades of gray and white by Johnny McKee, while works in the hallway outside the parlor were created by his fellow artists in residence at the Harrison Center.

Two large paintings in the primary bedroom are by Wendy Franklin, who, along with Melinda Spear-Huff, created the laundry-room artwork. On your way downstairs, check out the series of canvases featuring soothing blue and gray tones and colorful florals by Kim Greene.

HEART OF THE HOME

The existing kitchen was functional, but small, with no space for eating or gathering. A 420-square-foot addition accommodated a casual dining area, a butler’s pantry, the pool’s half bath, and a fourth garage bay to fit the family’s lifestyle.

The kitchen is simple and refined with an overall English/European vibe. “It blends well with the home,” says Dawn Barbee, design director with Cabinetry Ideas. “Part of what we do at Cabinetry Ideas is to try to make the kitchen feel as if it’s always been part of the original house.”

The walnut and gray-blue cabinetry was designed by Cabinetry Ideas and manufactured by Greenfield Custom Cabinetry by the Corsi Group. “We added a little nuance of design to intrigue the eye,” says J.D. Dick of Cabinetry Ideas, the designer for the kitchen.

Interior designer Debra Maley of A New Arrangement assisted in selecting the finishes for the kitchen—the stones, hardware, furnishings, accessories, and colors. The Frenchblue La Cornue range was the driver for the kitchen color palette. Maley used whimsical blue-and-orange wallpaper on the accent wall and painted the other walls orange to make the dark tones of the cabinetry pop.

“Color pulls things together,” Maley says. “We wanted to give a nod to the past of the house, update it, and give it personality.”

A herringbone-patterned wood floor replicates the original flooring in the living room.

Cathedral Marble & Granite fabricated and installed natural Brazilian quartzite from Mont Surfaces in the kitchen. It has a kid-friendly leathered finish. Excelsior, an exotic watercolor pattern in shades of blues and grays, adorns the island, countertops, and backsplash. The beverage bar features creamcolored Elixir quartzite with a mitered edge.

For the butler’s pantry next to the kitchen, Cathedral fabricated and installed a silky leather quartzite in a watercolor pattern from Plutus Marble. “They coordinate with—but don’t match—the stone in the kitchen, which is more interesting,” says Chris Baker, sales manager for Cathedral Marble & Granite.

Maley added an antique French bench to the dining table and chairs in the new addition for an eclectic, European feel.

“The kitchen is now the heart of the home,” Dick says.

“Color pulls things together. We wanted to give a nod to the past of the house, update it, and give it its own personality.”

DEBRA MALEY, INTERIOR DESIGNER, A NEW ARRANGEMENT

KITCHEN by Cabinetry Ideas

PHOTO BY TONY VALAINIS

VISIT

Kitchen design by Cabinetry Ideas

“We love the bones of the house. It’s a surprise at every corner. You don’t get that with newer homes.”

JULIE BOUTILIER-BERGHORN, LEAD DESIGNER AND OWNER, CORNERSTONE INTERIORS

PHOTO BY THE ADDISON GROUP

BLENDING OLD AND NEW

One of the challenges of renovating older homes is working around features that must remain untouched.

“We love the bones of the house,” says Julie Boutilier-Berghorn, lead designer and owner of Cornerstone Interiors. “It’s a surprise at every corner. You don’t get that with newer homes.”

Monica Due, lead designer at Cornerstone Interiors, used delicate pieces in the living room, such as a Christopher Guy sofa to complement the French-style white marble fireplace. She blended it with Asian influences—a black lacquered bar chest decorated with gold-foil geese, a rust grasscloth accent wall, and Cole and Son cloud wallpaper on the ceiling.

The house doesn’t just blend old and new; the main-level rooms flow together beautifully. And the entire home demonstrates an incredible attention to detail.

“It’s all about the layers and the depth of design,” Caito says. “That’s what elevates this show house.”

If you look overhead, you’ll see a variety of ceiling styles and treatments—artist David Studley’s primitive painting on the cloakroom ceiling, the lower-level corniced ceiling, and the barrel ceiling in the primary bedroom entry hall—as well as standout contemporary lighting, such as the living room’s bubble chandeliers.

The dining room and sitting area, designed by Tom Myers and Susan Culleiton of Kittle’s Design Studio, boasts a black-and-white color palette with accents of French blue to harmonize with the kitchen. Their goal was to make the space stylish, yet family-friendly, to function well for both dining and family entertaining.

A simple Parson’s table with a doublepedestal base, two white host chairs, and six leather-backed chairs delineate the dining area. A black accent wall helps the existing marble fireplace recede into the background.

The original wooden built-in console beneath the flat-screen TV in the sitting area also had to be accommodated, so the Kittle’s team used a mix of wood stains in the room that blend well and flow together. Furniture

with simple lines, bold light fixtures, and accessories add a contemporary feel.

“I mix contemporary with traditional backgrounds all the time, and they work together flawlessly,” Myers says.

Ethan Allen remade the lowerlevel breakout space as the kids’ entertainment area.

“There was no way to make a cohesive one-room space, given the existing built-ins and the different alcoves,” says designer Jack Lasich. “The only way to set the room up properly was to create two distinct areas—the gaming room and the TV room.”

The swivel chairs separating the two areas can be used in both. The furnishings are a combination of midcentury-modern pieces, such as a Ravenswood media console, and more contemporary items that give the area a relaxed feel.

BOY’S BEDROOM by JB Designs

QUIET TIME

The downstairs study by Savvy Décor features a leather desk and artifacts artfully displayed in new bookcases. The upper-level parlor designed by At Home With Savvy is the perfect place to curl up and read a book or have an intimate conversation.

A muted color palette used in the primary bedroom by Bailey & Bailey Interior Design creates a peaceful space for the homeowners to relax. The exquisite white-and-gray marble fireplace originally was in another room of the house.

Green is the predominant color in the boy’s bedroom, designed by Judy Bates and Ashleigh Womack of JB Designs. The room has a simple spindle bed and sports-themed decor.

A gold, bow-backed desk chair and gingham shades on the lamps add a feminine touch to the girl’s bedroom. “We wanted the room to feel fresh and preppy,” says designer Ali Marten of Marten Design. “The color scheme was inspired by the Ann Sacks bathroom tile so the bedroom and bathroom would flow together.”

WORTHY CAUSE

Participating designers and landscapers donated their time and talents to this home tour, but other businesses pitched in as well. Sherwin-Williams supplied the paint, Brizo donated the plumbing fixtures, and Orner Billiards provided the felt to recover the owners’ pool table.

All proceeds from the tour and affiliated events will go toward the Sandra Eskenazi Mental Health Center’s Behavioral Health Academy, which prepares students for dual licensure to treat substance-abuse disorders and complex mental-health issues while earning MSW degrees. The donation will help fund the John & Kathy Ackerman Mental Health Professionals Development Center initiative, which will expand the training to BSW students and peer recovery specialists.

“This is a great way to have trained therapists in the seats [at clinics] and ready to go come May,” says Meg Kovacs, LCSW, Behavioral Health Academy Coordinator with Eskenazi Health. “It’s a huge initiative that we could not do without funds from St. Margaret’s Guild.”

“This is a great way to have trained therapists in the seats [at clinics] and ready to go come May. It’s a huge initiative that we could not do without funds from St. Margaret’s Guild.”

MEG KOVACS, LCSW, BEHAVIORAL HEALTH ACADEMY COORDINATOR, ESKENAZI HEALTH

PHOTO BY THE ADDISON GROUP

Restaurant Partners

1830 Chophouse

47 & Poplar

Abbiocco Pizzeria

Ali'i Poke

Amazeball by Eat Surreal

Arni's Restaurant

Azucar Morena

Back 9 Golf & Entertainment

Blondie's Cookies

Boba & Everything

Boozee Bundts

BRU Burger Bar

Byrne's Grilled Pizza

Capriotti's Sandwich Shop

Chicken Scratch

Cinnaholic

Classic Cakes

Clean Eatz

Convivio Italian Artisan Cuisine

Cretia Cakes

Daniel's Vineyard

Dick's Last Resort

The District Tap

The Eagle's Nest

Eddie Merlot's

The Fountain Room

The Garage Food Hall

Garrett's Smokehouse Barbeque

Grindstone Charley's

Grindstone on the Monon

Harry & Izzy's

The Hulman

Indie Coffee Roasters

Jack's Donuts

King Dough

Los Arroyos Mexican Restaurant & Bar

Lou Malnati's Pizzeria

Mambo's Cheesesteak Grill

Market Square Popcorn Company

Market Wagon

Matt the Miller's Tavern

MCL Restaurant & Bakery

Modita Cunningham

Nada

Nameless Catering Company

Nesso

Nothing Bundt Cakes

The Oceanaire Seafood Room

Open Kitchen Restaurant

Osteria by Fabio Viviani

Our Table American Bistro

Panadas

Pizza & Libations

Pots & Pans Pie Co.

Punch Bowl Social

Punkin’s Pies Sweet Treats

Rare Brew

Rathskeller Restaurant

Rick's Café Boatyard

Rise'n Roll

presented by ICE MILLER LLP

5:30-7pm

Samano’s Mexican Food

Schakolad Chocolate FactoryZionsville

Shake Shack

Simple Taste Specialty Bakery

Slapfish

Social Cantina

Spoke & Steele

St. Elmo Steak House

St. Joseph Brewery & Public House

Sun King Brewery & Spirits

SweetCakesbyRonda

Taste of Innova Wings + Greens

Taxman Brewing Co.

Tinker Coffee Co.

Vanilla Bean Bakery

Verde Flavors of Mexico

Yats

YUMMY!

Entertainment presented by

Clayton Anderson

Naked Karate Girls

The Doo! Band

DJ Lockstar

Jeff Day

Jay Jones & Brick House Dueling

Pianos

Brett Wiscons

CONTINUED FROM PAGE 55

hallway bathroom without closing the door. I heard his loud, long stream into the toilet, and my mother laughed.

“He doesn’t know you’re here.”

I felt awful. Not only did I not fit in my world, but I was intruding into the familiarity of theirs. Dad walked into the living room, surprised to see me.

“Oh, hi, Toots. How y’doin’?”

Swallowing hard, I looked at my mother and my lip trembled. My father loved me but didn’t have the horsepower to deal with difficult feelings. Mom mouthed that she would explain later, so he retreated to his La-Z-Boy.

I LIVED at my parents’ house for six weeks. My lovely orange pumpkin sat patiently, discarded and undriven on the street in front of my apartment. My mother became my chauffeur. I worked downtown for the research arm of United Way, and when my coworkers walked to their cars at 5 p.m., I waited for my mother outside in my bell-bottom jeans and white peasant blouse, looking good but feeling deeply embarrassed. How had driving, one of my greatest childhood joys, become the enemy?

What in the hell was wrong with me?

I started seeing a therapist, an older man, balding, with a large nose and a gray goatee. Sigmund Freud with aviator glasses. He was kind and felt like an ally, helping me sort out some boyfriend and general life problems, but he never explained, in a way I understood, why I was having these intense blasts of panic. He told me I would stop having them once I could view myself from a great distance. What, like out-of-body? How would I do that legally? He also quoted Rainer Maria Rilke, and I wondered if I should learn German. I bought a book called Hope and Help for Your Nerves, which had me on page two with the line, “You probably look at others in the street and wonder why you can’t be like them.”

Eventually, with time, care, and bibliotherapy, I came to see the prospect

of never driving again as (marginally) worse than my fear. One afternoon, I got in my mother’s silver Olds Cutlass, alone, as tentative as if I were taking a driving test, and nudged out onto Shelby Street to get a haircut 10 blocks away. When I passed Stop 8 Road (now Edgewood Avenue), I said out loud, “There’s Susie’s house. We played hopscotch in her basement.” A block further, “That’s Kenny’s Market, where we bought penny candy and cigarettes to smoke down by Buck Creek.” On Epler Avenue, “That’s the bike shop where I got my first three-speed, a Raleigh.”

Without realizing it, I was trying to reconnect myself to my life. To be a real person in this real car. Me. A person with a past (my past!) and a future (my future!), and not the isolated stranger who had been living in my skin.

I made it to the salon and back. Driving the streets of my youth gave me a teaspoon of confidence, and it grew. Within a week, I could drive to work and short distances around town. I was reunited with my dear Saab, but I still wasn’t ready to fly solo, though I longed to. For the next two years, when I traveled, I always went with friends.

One of them was adorable Rich—with his olive skin, soft brown hair, and a laughing, East Coast, Jewish manner—who invited me to bike for three days along the southeast coast of Florida. An Indy friend had parents in Florida, so he gladly hopped in my Saab. I met Rich in West Palm Beach and we rode off, sun on our faces, going from city streets to mangrove shorelines, beaches, and lagoons. We trespassed in pinethick parks to pitch our tent, all far from rescue, perfect conditions to make me panic, but I didn’t, because Rich was a school psychologist. Did soothing the agonies of 10th graders qualify him to manage a panic meltdown? Close enough, I told myself.

With bikes on its back and friends in its seats, my Saab took us to marvelous places, and I discovered my lifelong love of travel. One summer I drove to Cape Cod with my friend Susan and her sister, a psychology grad student at Stanford (close enough again). Rich and I did another three-day bike ride around the Cape, through Truro and Provincetown, along the coastal roads, breathing wild beach roses and salt air.

I had wonderful times traveling in my Saab—with a friend. Preferably a friend with an advanced degree.

ODDLY ENOUGH, my fear of driving out of town alone would be solved by my car itself. Saab manufactured fighter jets, but somehow hadn’t perfected the fuel-injection system in my earth-bound vehicle. Every few months, my car juddered and sputtered, temperamental as a toddler. Tune-ups at Indianapolis dealers were expensive. Then I heard about Gibson Motor Company in Perrysville, a tiny town in western Indiana, that drew loyal customers from Kentucky, Michigan, and Illinois. I called the owner, Frank Gibson, and liked him and his price. The only problem was me. Could I drive three hours there and back? No. I hadn’t left town alone for two years.

Susan went with me twice. The first time, we pulled into Perrysville and I thought, Ghost town without the dust. Gibson’s was on a short, deserted street with weathered buildings and wooden porches. You could almost hear the chink of Clint Eastwood’s spurs. The second visit was a Saturday in July during Perrysville’s Fun Dayz, with its popular pig roast. Whole hogs were buried on top of glowing wood coals Friday and dug up Saturday. While Frank worked on my Saab, Susan and I ate tender, dripping pork off flimsy paper plates, then drove home in a car that purred.

Six months later, my car coughed like an asthmatic and didn’t want to start. Either I had to suck it up and pay a high price for service in Indianapolis or drive to Perrysville again. Susan had moved and I was too embarrassed to ask any other friend to wake early on a Saturday morning to watch my car being fixed. But love makes us do crazy things, and that teaspoon of courage I got driving to the hair salon turned into a tablespoon. So, one wintry January morning, I set off for Perrysville … alone.

MY HANDS WERE tentative on my Saab’s leather-wrapped wheel as I curved onto the entry ramp to I-74 on the west side of Indy and started doing crazy math. If Nancy drove away from her home (point A) toward Perrysville (point B) for 20 minutes at 70 mph, but turned around when she freaked out (point C), how long would it take at 80 mph for her body to catch up with her mind?

This was before the age of cellphones. I saw ahead of me three hours alone of indifferent highway, in an indifferent world, pleading to be saved from myself. On the interstate, I practiced a version of 12-step recovery advice: one mile at a

time. I noted each mileage sign, looked wistfully at each exit. Despite the warning signs, emergency turnarounds in the median looked like lifelines, and I welcomed each one like a friend. I slipped in my favorite mixtape and Billy Preston’s “Outa-Space” came on, a mood lifter if ever there was one.

Billy and I kept going until I pulled into Gibson’s concrete-block service bay.

“Frank?” I called between the whiny ratchets of an impact wrench. Frank’s blond head lifted out from under a hood. He smiled, happy to see me, and I explained what my car had been doing. He nodded like he’d heard it all before.

“How long do you think it’ll take?” I asked, trying to keep my nerves out of my voice.

“Oh, don’t know for sure.” Frank had the easy manner of a country boy who didn’t much go by a watch. “Come back maybe around 1 or 2.”

It was 9 a.m. Fresh panic flooded through me. If the “big one” hit, I didn’t know anyone in town to call; plus, I couldn’t leave—for four or five hours. I was alone with my thoughts, behind enemy lines. I didn’t believe I could rescue myself out of the downward spiral of a panic attack. I pictured Frank staring open-mouthed as I moaned and sobbed, seeming possessed by demons. Would he take me home to his mother? Would she wrap her arms around me and make a cup of tea? Could she be a nurse?

Distraction sometimes abated my fears, so I had made a “plan” for the day, just as a few years later when I began to fly again, I walked onto airplanes armed with Sudoku, a good mystery, a nail file and buffing block (my husband always commented on how my nails gleamed when we traveled), and my copy of Hope and Help for Your Nerves, dog-eared at the pages that I thumbed like a rosary.

“All right, I’ll be back,” I said and shuffled away with weak knees, heading for the cafe across the street. I had a good book and figured breakfast could eat up an hour with a couple coffee refills. The waitress had a warm smile, and I ordered bacon and eggs and listened to voices around me, trying to look and feel normal, not like I was ready to throw my arms around the waitress’s midsection.

Interestingly, in all the years I suffered from anxiety, I never, not once, cried out with panic or grabbed onto someone to help, but I always had to believe that if worse came to worst there was someone who would care for me, take my hand. I

could assign this role of unwitting savior to almost anyone, even a stone farmhouse miles away in isolated North York Moors. I could walk down there. They’d take me to a hospital or give me cocoa and a ride home. I once decided, when the door of an airplane thudded closed and I sat nervously anticipating the first electric jolt of claustrophobia, that the man a few rows ahead was a doctor, just from the look of the back of his head.

After breakfast, I walked to the edge of town and the Wabash River. Flowing south to join the Ohio and Mississippi, it was a commercial thoroughfare in the 1800s and took flatboats and steamboats as far as New Orleans (which made Perrysville a thriving river town). From the road I picked my way down to the riverbank and an open area. A good spot to hook bass or bluegill on sunnier, warmer days, I thought.

It was a mild day for January, so I sat on the downed trunk of a sycamore, pulled up my jacket hood, and slipped on my gloves. As I looked out at the wintry swirls of the empty, muddy river, my thoughts slowed. I was proud of my courage to have driven here and endured the first two hours in town.

“Here I am,” I said to myself over and over, almost giddy.

PANIC ATTACKS come so suddenly and are so frightening that some sufferers avoid any possible trigger. Like a telescope focusing ever down, their outward lives get smaller—no driving, no travel, no restaurants, no shopping, then finally no leaving the house. Early on, I thought my inability to drive or fly or travel alone would keep my world forever small, but unaccountably, something inside me (a deep stubbornness, I suppose, coupled with an extra ration of wonder and curiosity) made me fight back. I wanted to bike along sunny beaches, hike through a Wisconsin pine forest, kayak in Croatia, walk atop the mountains of Norway, and gaze across Lago Azul to the granite towers of Patagonia. I had an aunt who went to California and told me, “I hated flying, but I wanted to be there so badly, it was just the teensiest bit stronger than my fear.” In the end, I decided that being a scared explorer was better than being safely stuck in Indianapolis.

TIME ON THE riverbank passed. The sun broke through and warmed me as it brightened the water. But while my body relaxed, my mind found some

new mischief. What if there’s a problem and my car takes all day to fix? What if I can’t make it through the next half hour? What if the “big one” hits and I can’t drive home? I needed a diversion to quiet these thoughts, so I stood up, shook out my legs, and walked into town. To my surprise, when I rounded onto Jackson Street, my sweet Saab, my rolling pumpkin, was waiting for me like Cinderella’s carriage. “It’s done!” I said aloud and did a tiny jig. The ride home was easy, almost fun. I floated past each interstate exit and median turnaround as if I were running bases after hitting a homer. There was no roar from the stadium, but the cheers inside my head were more than enough.

I wasn’t cured. In the years that followed, I had more panic attacks and put myself in countless situations in which I deeply feared having one, but I had found a place inside where I believed I would survive. It was hard to reach at times and often needed talking to, but it usually came around. After Perrysville, each success, small or large, served as a building block for a life of travel that now includes 30 countries on six continents. In fits and spurts, I did what I wanted. Not without fear, but in spite of it.

WHEN I WAS 28 , I moved on to a new job in women’s health care (that required driving and flying) and met John. He was a builder and drove a bright-yellow construction van. He wanted a comfortable car for around town and liked my Saab, so he bought himself a silver Saab turbo. His engine was newer and faster than mine, but still needed more fixing than an engine should. John, too, started driving to Perrysville. We double-dated with our cars, having breakfast at the cafe while Frank and his assistant worked on both vehicles.

A few years after John and I married, my lovely car developed an expensive gas leak. John’s turbo also needed serious work, and Frank offered to buy my car to pay for John’s repairs. It was a sensible household decision, so sadly, I said goodbye to my orange pumpkin. She and I had faced a lot together—no journey more important than that first trip alone to Perrysville. John and I eventually gave up on high-maintenance vehicles and entered the world of Japanese and Korean cars that purred down the road without fuss for years.

Thanks to my Saab, I was on my way to doing the same.

R

The Full English Breakfast at Cheeky Bastards, p. 75

Photo by TONY VALAINIS

DOWNTOWN

INCLUDES Fletcher Place, Fountain Square, Mass Ave, Mile Square

Agave & Rye

TACOS High-concept tortilla concoctions with names like the Filthy Fajita, Swipe Right, and the Spicy Kitty add to the party atmosphere at this vibrant chain awash in neon, chandeliers, performance wallpaper, and pops of graffiti. A la carte tacos get backup from starters in the form of either Big Munchies (such as Birria Irish Nachos and Mac N Cheese Beignets) or Little Munchies (including elotes plated half off the cob). Tequila and bourbon dominate the house cocktails mixed behind a bar festooned with colors and lights, and the desserts are portioned for sharing. 336 Delaware St., 463-257-8226, agave andrye.com $$$

Aroma

INDIAN Familiar tandoori and tikka masala staples mingle with heartier, more elevated offerings at this elegant pan-Indian spot. Lunchtime lamb and chicken rolls in crispy flatbread wrappers stand out, as do hearty chaat dishes dressed up with yellow peas, yogurt, and chutneys. An impressive lamb shank is the highlight of the chef’s specialties and easily feeds two. A full bar and an artful array of desserts help round out a special-occasion meal. 501 Virginia Ave., 317602-7117, aromaindy.com V $$

Ash & Elm Cider Co. Restaurant and Cider Bar

GASTROPUB A long-awaited move to the historic former Ford Assembly Plant building on East Washington Street not only brought Indy’s premier cider-maker a few blocks closer to downtown but also ushered in a full menu of snacks and dinner dishes created by chef Tracey Couillard. Start with a cider slushie or a cidermosa (peach, mango, or guava) to enjoy with tangy, rich deviled eggs or crisp, light elote fritters with a bright cilantro crema. Then move to a flagship cider such as the semi-sweet

or tart cherry for the main courses, including a standout roasted chicken breast with a crispy hasselback potato, hanger steak with chanterelles, or pan-fried walleye. But don’t pass up the apt apple-cheddar melt or the burger of the moment, lavished with crab dip or garlic scape pesto. 1301 E. Washington St., 317-600-3164, ashandelmcider.com $$

Beholder

CONTEMPORARY A former car-repair shop sets the stage for daring performance art that has featured pig-skin noodles and granita-topped uni designed to melt on the tongue, as well as buttermilk fried chicken with wildflower honey. The labor-intensive cocktails are spot-on. 1844 E. 10th St., 317-419-3471, beholderindy.com V $$$

Bluebeard

CONTEMPORARY Bluebeard opened in 2012, and crowds still roll in for chef Abbi Merriss’s take on seasonal comfort food. Start with the bread baked next door at Amelia’s—it’s especially delicious slathered with anchovy butter—and build your meal from the ever-changing menu of small and large dishes. Fried morels may show up on a spring picnic plate, while winter nights call for a comforting butcher-shop Bolognese. 653 Virginia Ave., 317-686-1580, blue beardindy.com V $$

Bodhi: Craft Bar + Thai Bistro

THAI This Mass Ave restaurant serves a small, focused menu of Thai dishes like Massaman curry with braised beef and Bodhi’s own version of non-Americanized pad thai. Cocktails get a lot of attention on a drinks list designed by Ball & Biscuit’s Heather Storms. 922 Massachusetts Ave., 317-941-6595, bodhi-indy.com V $$

Brew Link

BREWERY What started as a casual brewery on the edge of a Hendricks County golf course has expanded to include a good-time downtown Indianapolis spot that is serious about its bar bites. Get an order of smoked chicken wings for the table or loaded nachos piled high with your choice of chicken, carnitas, or steak. The burgers are elaborately garnished, and the mac and cheese is doused with Brew Link’s house beer

cheese. 714 N. Capitol Ave., 317-653-1884, brewlink brewing.com $$

Bru Burger Bar

BURGERS The generous patties here combine sirloin, chuck, and brisket and are paired with cocktails and craft beers. Highlights include the signature Bru Burger, with bacon, Taleggio, sweet tomato jam, and porter-braised onions. 410 Massachusetts Ave., 317-635-4278, bruburger bar.com V $$

Cafe Patachou

CAFE The original Meridian-Kessler “student union for adults” continues to draw in the morning crowds and has inspired citywide offshoots, such as this sleek downtown location, a huge hit with the business and weekend hordes alike. The cinnamon toast remains as thick as a brick; the produce is still locally sourced; the massive omelets continue to have cheeky names; and the broken-yolk sandwiches are a perennial lunch favorite. 225 W. Washington St., 317-632-0765, cafepatachou.com

V $$

The Capital Grille

CLASSIC A theme of decadence permeates this steakhouse adjoining the equally posh Conrad hotel, from the gilded-framed pastoral paintings that hang on its dark-paneled walls to the selection of elaborate steaks (one of them drenched in a Courvoisier cream sauce, another flavored with aged balsamic—and some of them dryaged). The servers are exquisite, of course. 40 W. Washington St., 317-423-8790, thecapitalgrille.com

V $$$$

Dave’s Hot Chicken

FAST FOOD The name of this Los Angeles–based chain is no joke. Strips of white meat are brined to lock in the chicken’s juiciness before the Nashville hot–style, Carolina reaper–based spice is applied in seven levels of firepower. Heat-seekers line up to order the incendiary poultry in degrees that top out at a 911–worthy “Reaper,” but even the tamer “Hot” and “Medium” are not for the faint of heart. Order an entry-level “Mild” in slider form, dressed with slaw, sweet pickles, a generous swipe of the tangy, mayo-based house sauce, and tucked inside

SYMBOLS

Brunch

Outdoor seating Reservations

V Vegetarian friendly

$$$$ $30 and up

$$$ $20–$30

$$ $10–$20

$ Under $10

NEW

ADDED

UPDATED

Very Good Good

Recently opened establishment.

Open for more than five months but making its first appearance in the guide.

Recently revisited and reevaluated.

Restaurants included in this guide are selected at the discretion of the Indianapolis Monthly editorial staff based on food quality, innovation, atmosphere, service, value, and consistency. IM does not accept advertising or other compensation in exchange for dining coverage. Price symbols indicate the average cost of a meal per person (without tax, tip, or alcohol). Due to limited space, this list does not cover every evaluated restaurant. For a more comprehensive guide to Indianapolis dining, visit IndianapolisMonthly.com/Dining. Feedback? Please email TheDish@IndianapolisMonthly.com.

a squishy bun that serves as insulation between the tongue and sear. 530 Massachusetts Ave., 317285-0200, daveshotchicken.com $$

Easy Rider Diner

DINER Chef Ricky Martinez oversees this colorful Fountain Square diner that connects to the HI-FI music venue. The daylight menu applies Latin flourish to breakfast and brunch dishes, including a chorizo omelet with roasted tomato salsa, queso, and lime crema, shrimp and grits, and a waffle flight. For dinner, Martinez spotlights fried chicken and steak sandwiches, along with an appropriately indulgent late-night lineup of garbage can nachos and Cubanos available from 10 p.m. until the entertainment next door calls it a night. 1043 Virginia Ave., 463-224-0430, easyriderindy.com V $$

Fat Dan’s Deli

MEAT AND POTATOES Brisket cooked for 14 hours is a mainstay of the made-from-scratch menu, as is the house corned beef. Get an order of tender smoked wings and some tots for the table, served no-frills on a spread of craft paper. Whatever you do, don’t miss the plump Vienna dogs that will transport you straight to Wrigleyville. 410 E. Michigan St., 317-600-3008, fatdansdeli.com $

The Fountain Room

UPSCALE Restaurateur Blake Fogelsong filled this two-story showstopper with tufted leather chairs, glamorous clamshell booths, marble bar tops, and cascading chandeliers as a tribute to the Art Deco splendor of the restored Bottleworks Hotel next door. Meanwhile, executive chef Andrew Popp’s big-shouldered menu covers everything from fine-tuned steaks and seafood to wild-card winners like a 20-ounce Circle City Cut slab of prime rib, a noble old-school relish tray, utterly decadent French onion soup, and the best Coca-Cola barbecue ribs in town. 830 Massachusetts Ave., 463-238-3800, thefountain room.com $$$

Gallery Pastry Bar

CONTEMPORARY The second location for the popular Broad Ripple bakery and brunch spot specializes in European-inspired pastries, brunch, dinner, and cocktails. 110 S. Pennsylvania St., 317820-5526, bar.gallerypastry.com $$

Harry & Izzy’s

STEAKHOUSE Craig Huse’s casual alternative to big brother St. Elmo holds its own as a clubby hangout worthy of destination-steakhouse status itself. The marbled bone-in ribeye sizzles in its juices, a smart umami-rich pick among the high-quality (and high-priced) Midwest-sourced prime cuts. The menu expands to thin-crust pizzas, sandwiches, salads, and seafood selections like pan-seared scallops. 153 S. Illinois St., 317635-9594, harryandizzys.com $$$

King Dough

PIZZA Chewy and with just the right flop in the middle, the pizzas are bona fide craft, from the dough to the quality toppings. Standouts include the Stinky Pete with wild mushrooms, gorgonzola, and plenty of garlic and herbs. Burgers, including one made from chorizo and topped with manchego cheese, play surprisingly close second fiddles to the pies. Cocktails concocted from boutique liqueurs and aromatics are reason enough to drop in, and they make for perfect sippers while you wait for your pie on the patio.

452 N. Highland Ave., 317-602-7960, kingdough pizzas.com V $$

Livery

LATIN This place feels like a hidden urban treasure, especially when the mezcal cocktails are flowing and the partially open kitchen is sending out plate after plate of contemporary Latininspired fare. Favorites have included a salad tucked inside a folded manchego crisp, meltingly tender steak fanned over a block of polenta, and a silky tres leches cake to die for. Snag a spot on the upper-level deck for a real treat. 720 N. College Ave., 317-383-0330, livery-restaurant .com $$

Love Handle

SANDWICHES Daily lunch and brunch features such as schnitzel and waffles and a pulledchicken Hot Brown are the main draw at Chris and Ally Benedyk’s cheeky sandwich shop. The chalkboard menu also offers side options in the form of braised greens and potato salad with roasted tomatoes. 877 Massachusetts Ave., 317384-1102 $$

Milktooth

BRUNCH This diner-style cafe has a playfully gritty vibe. The early-morning counter service featuring pastries and coffee gives way to a full-service brunch menu with daytime craft cocktails. 534 Virginia Ave., 317-986-5131, milk toothindy.com V $$

Nesso

ITALIAN Highly stylized seafood and meats paired with small pasta courses and shared a la carte sides add up to a sumptuous dining experience inside the Alexander hotel. Pass around a plate of prosciutto-wrapped prunes or crab arancini, but keep the tortelloni and sea bass all to yourself. 339 S. Delaware St., 317-643-7400, nesso-italia.com $$$

Palavana Cubano

NEW CUBAN The second effort of J’s Lobster & Fish Market owner J. Wolf, this vibrant Latin-themed food stall homes in faithfully on the famous sandwiches of Central and South Florida, with plenty of authentic Cuban touches as well. The straight-up pressed Cuban sandwich won’t disappoint those who have had the real deal in Tampa or Miami, but the poetically named Cuban Reuben may be the winner among sandwiches, unless you’ve got the stomach for The Revolution, a gut-buster with four meats, Swiss cheese, pickles, and truffle Dijon mayo. The salty-sweet Elena Ruz and the classic frita burger potato sticks are good alternatives to the originals. A curious Cuban fry mix of both regular and sweet-potato fries is tempting, but plantain chips or tostones are both excellent sides, especially when paired with one of several tangy, garlicky sauces. Had lunch already? Stop in for a frothy Cuban coffee and a tender, buttery guava pastelito. 906 Carrolton Ave., 317556-1252, garageindy.com $$

Ruth’s Chris Steak House

STEAKHOUSE While nightly specials at this stately steakhouse include innovative seafood and poultry options, supper-club classics abound, from the succulent, fat-marbled ribeye to a delicate petite filet, all served on sizzling-hot plates. 45 S. Illinois St., 317-633-1313, ruthschris .com

$$$$

Shapiro’s Delicatessen

DELI Slide your tray along and take your pick of kosher comfort foods at this downtown institution. Hot pastrami and corned-beef sandwiches on rye have drawn long lines for more than a century. The Reuben contends for the city’s best, and heartier fare such as potato pancakes, stuffed cabbage, and matzo-ball soup are perennially satisfying standbys. Load up on a massive wedge of pie, or you haven’t really had the proper Shapiro’s experience. 808 S. Meridian St., 317-631-4041, shapiros.com $$

Social Cantina

MODERN MEXICAN This Bloomington import’s festive vibe runs on perky street tacos, ricebased bowls, and tequila bling. The chips and salsa flight is a straight-up table-pleaser. But for a more foodie-forward starter, the ahistuffed avocado is a creamy fusion bomb with tropical salsa and a sweet soy glaze that leans Asian. The tacos are fussier than their humble forerunners, but tasty. Vegan options and substitutions abound. The tequila flex—more than 100 bottles, plus two on tap—is impressive, but not surprising given that Social Cantina comes from the same restaurant group that conceived The Tap, whose beers are also featured on the deep list of adult beverages. 148 S. Illinois St., 317-218-3342, thesocialcantina.com V $$

Spoke & Steele

CONTEMPORARY At the sleek lobby restaurant of Le Méridien, French classics with fusion touches imagined by chef Joel Scott Johnson include a spiffed-up bouillabaisse with wasabi tempura cod, steak tartare with fennel and watermelon radishes, and a Niçoise salad with fried potatoes standing in for the traditional tuna. Entrees feature hearty pastas, steak au poivre lavished with bone marrow butter, and chicken paillard accompanied by broccolini. A perfectly cooked burger made with Fischer Farms beef is crowned with Colby and shaved garlic. 123 S. Illinois St., 317737-1616, spokeandsteele.com $$$

St. Elmo Steak House

STEAKHOUSE Since 1902, this stately house of red meat has served as the unofficial ambassador of downtown Indianapolis—the walls carry decades’ worth of celebrity photos, the burnished bar hearkens to an earlier era, and the servers remain starched and bow-tied. The drill remains the same as well: a generous martini; a shrimp cocktail with that infamously hot sauce; the bean soup or tomato juice; the wedge; and one of the legendary steaks. 127 S. Illinois St., 317-6350636, stelmos.com $$$$

Sweetgreen

SALADS A California import with locations across the country, this bowl-based eatery assembles oversized salads and healthy grain dishes. The decor is bright and spartan, and ordering is Chipotlestyle at a long counter. Customer favorites include a roasted chicken Harvest Bowl with wild rice and the vegan Shroomami with tofu, portobello, beets, cucumbers, and kale tossed in miso sesame ginger dressing. 157 E. New York St., 463220-4400, sweetgreen.com V $$

Taxman CityWay

GASTROPUB Soaring ceilings, rustic candelabra lighting, brick walls, and a 3,000-square-foot beer-garden patio make this one of Indy’s most welcoming drinking spots. The gastropub menu

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4 Birds Bakery

A Cut Above Catering

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includes some of the city’s best frites, served with more than half a dozen sauces or loaded with bacon, beer cheese, and scallions. Liège waffles are topped with hearty add-ons like fried chicken and rosemary-scented maple syrup or cheesy shrimp and grits. 310 S. Delaware St., 317734-3107, taxmanbrewing.com $$

Tinker Street

NEW AMERICAN Reservations are a must, so snag whatever date you can get and hope there’s a warm-night seat on the twinkling patio. Then settle in for small plates such as surprisingly light and flavorful chickpea ravioli with vegan ricotta and a host of colorful garnishes. Or try one of the always-vegan soups or a seasonal salad such as a refreshing mix of greens with asparagus, pickled rhubarb, and tangy blue cheese. Fall-apart pork belly with kimchi, forbidden rice, and a duck egg is perhaps the star of the main dishes, though shrimp and grits with green-tomato chow-chow and a refreshing halibut with carrot soubise are excellent bets. 402 E. 16th St., 317-925-5000, tinkerstreet restaurant.com V $$$

Tony’s Steaks and Seafood

STEAKHOUSE Elegantly presented oysters, mussels, and calamari tossed with pepperoncini and cherry tomatoes top a list of mostly seafood appetizers, but don’t miss what has to be one of the city’s biggest crab cakes, mounded on a swath of tangy mustard aioli. A special seasoning blend of paprika, sea salt, and pepper means New York strips and bone-in prime ribeyes have an especially flavorful char while being perfectly lush and tender inside. 110 W. Washington St., 317-638-8669, tonysofindianap olis.com $$$

wings, or get busy with dishes plucked from the chef’s rotating seasonal menu. 1201 Prospect St., 317-672-3671, uplandbeer.com V $$

World Famous Hotboys

CHICKEN Fountain Square’s landmark Peppy Grill has a new life as this modern hot chicken shack, a California import. The chicken sandwiches, made with 100-percent halal meat cooked in peanut oil, follow the Nashville Hot credo—coated in a spicy crunch, dressed up with slaw, pickles, and a piquant ranch-based sauce, and tucked inside an appropriately squishy bun. 1004 Virginia Ave., worldfamoushot boys.com $$

EAST

INCLUDES Beech Grove, Irvington

10th Street Diner

VEGAN Surprisingly familiar and hearty plantbased takes on diner classics occupy the entire menu at this rehab of a former pawn shop, a comfy backdrop for enjoying such tasty fakeouts as a gooey and satisfying seitan Reuben, a “chicken” pot pie, and house chili that rivals your favorite con carne version. Showstoppers include the many-layered lasagna with plenty of fresh veggies, a bright tomato sauce, and a tangy “cheese” concocted from tofu and cashews. Arrive early, before the day’s supplies run out. 3301 E. 10th St., 463-221-1255 V $$

Kan-Kan Cinema and Brasserie

The menu is brief and sandwich-heavy, with equal love given to the thick and cheesy Mayfair burger and daily vegan breakouts like the spicy seitan sloppy Joe and the massive bean burger. 2032 E. 10th St., 317-419-239 V $$

Natural State Provisions

CASUAL Customers order at the counter and find a table inside this former microbrewery reinvented as an endearingly kitschy eatdrinkery. The food is rooted in homestyle Arkansas cooking from co-owner Adam Sweet’s native state, heavy on the deep frying and sweet-tea brining. Order a Sling Blade cocktail, get a side of collard greens with your fried bologna sandwich, and don’t miss the daily soft serve ice cream flavor. 414 Dorman St., 317-492-9887, naturalstate provisions.com $$

Steer-In

DINER Wear your stretchiest pants here. SteerIn’s classic Guy Fieri–approved short-order fare includes breaded tenderloins, beef and noodle dinners, and beer-battered fish sandwiches. The Twin Steer burger is a Big Mac knockoff that pairs deliciously with a side of battered and fried onion rings. Rib-sticking breakfast platters are served all day. Wash it down with a legit vanilla Coke and take home a towering slice of coconut cream pie for later. 5130 E. 10th St., 317-356-0996, steerin.net $

NORTH SUBURBAN

INCLUDES Carmel, Fishers, Noblesville, Westfield, Zionsville

Tupelo

Honey Southern Kitchen & Bar

NEW

SOUTHERN The pioneering Ashevillebased scratch kitchen now has locations in 15 states, including this local spot at CityWay downtown. A bright, airy interior with a bar that’s part cleaned-up saloon and part retro lunch counter makes for a refreshing atmosphere with plenty of seating on an outdoor patio on warm days. Pimento cheese is a must among snack-style starters, as are fluffy, outsized biscuits, battered cauliflower bites, and homey fried green tomatoes with roasted red pepper sauce and grits, best washed down with a Boozy Turkey, the bar’s take on an Old Fashioned with Wild Turkey. Signature dishes include light and crisp fried chicken with “bee dust,” a blend of spices with dehydrated honey, and New Orleans-style roast beef debris (day-bree) with green beans and fried onions over goat-cheese grits. Waffles star at brunch alongside egg Bennies with a variety of toppings and, of course, mimosas and bloody Marys. And while pecan pie and comfy banana pudding are no-brainers for desserts, a rich, dense chocolate spoon cake is a true taste of Southern decadence. 320 S. Alabama St., 317-768-0323, tupelohoney cafe.com $$$

Upland Brewing

GASTROPUB Bloomington’s Upland Brewery brings its casual-dining experience to Indy’s near southside, with an open-concept dining room and a popular dog-friendly patio. The Upland repertoire gets proper representation in the wall of taps behind the bar. You can casually sip a flight of sours and snack on smoked chicken

UPSCALE CASUAL Dinner and a movie has never quite been as local or as luxe as it is at this cinematic and culinary collaboration in Windsor Park. First-run indie and classic films play on the screen in the cinema, with snacks and expert cocktails from the bar making nods to movie culture as in a Hollywood Boulevard(ier) and the 35MM with dry gin, orgeat, and lime. Leave plenty of room pre- or post-film (or just come back the next night) for blockbuster dinner offerings. 1258 Windsor St., 317-800-7099, kankanindy.com $$$

Landlocked Baking Company

CAFE What began life as a production bakery along Irvington’s tucked-away Audubon Road has expanded into a full-service daytime spot serving sandwiches and plated entrees. The menu keeps things brief, with a special focus on the array of fresh-baked carbs. The LGBT is a BLT enhanced with guacamole and tangy fried green tomatoes, and the focaccia grilled cheese includes local ham and cheese, plus pickled peaches. Gorgonzola grits topped with poached egg and hot honey, crispy-skinned confit potatoes, signature lattes, and a brunchy cocktail list make this sunny dining room more than just a neighborhood favorite. 120 S. Audubon Rd., 317-207-2127, landlockedbakingco.com V $$

Mayfair Taproom

FAMILY PUB Housed in a 120-year-old structure with a colorful past, this eastside hang has the timeless feel of a well-loved neighborhood pub. Walk-ins can relax over pints of beer at the bar, right next to a family-friendly dining room with window-seat booths and local art on the walls.

9th Street Bistro

BISTRO In a snug cafe off Noblesville’s town square, owners Samir Mohammad and Rachel Firestone Mohammad create meals worth lingering over, from a lamb shank slow-smoked to buttery tenderness and served on top of fresh pappardelle to a housemade burrata that makes several appearances on the menu. Hyperlocal ingredients fill out seasonal dishes, such as butternut squash bisque and duck confit toast. Chef Samir’s rotating Fried Thing of the Day (from tofu to artichoke hearts) should not be missed. 56 S. 9th St., Noblesville, 317-774-5065, 9thstbistro .com $$$

101 Beer Kitchen

CASUAL The energy is high and the flavors are forward at this Ohio import. In a dining room that combines the best parts of a craft brewery and an unfussy family haunt, crowd-pleasing dishes like loaded tater tots, Andouille sausage–spiked shrimp and grits, and brown-buttered pierogies have lots of moving parts, complex but more fun than fancy. The Yard at Fishers District, 317-537-2041, 101beerkitchen.com $$

1933 Lounge

STEAK AND COCKTAILS This clubby cocktail lounge offers a younger, sexier take on finedining institution St. Elmo Steak House. The twist here is that the black-vested servers deliver Oysters Rockefeller and 45-day dry-aged ribeyes to diners tucked into noir-lit corners where no one can see their faces melt into a brief ugly-cry at that first bite of incendiary shrimp

cocktail. The Yard at Fishers District, 317-7581933, 1933lounge.com/fishers $$$

Anthony’s Chophouse

STEAKHOUSE The interior of this swanky heavy hitter along Carmel’s Main Street has the polished gleam of a new Vegas hotel, with an upper-level lounge containing the salvaged mahogany bar from The Glass Chimney, a fine-dining legend. The food has equal flourish. Lobster bisque with a hunk of tempura-fried meat begins a meal that might include a cowgirl ribeye, a flight of filets, or a domestic Wagyu smashburger. Black-suited servers and wellcomposed cocktails keep the high-dollar meal running smoothly. 201 W. Main St., Carmel, 317740-0900, anthonyschophouse.com $$$$

Auberge

FRENCH Brick Street Inn’s classic French bistro installed talented chef Toby Moreno (The Loft at Traders Point Creamery, Plow & Anchor) in early 2022 and immediately sent him to Paris, where he trained in the kitchens of famed chef Alain Ducasse. Moreno has added that continental know-how to the vintage dishes he makes fresh with as much local produce, meats, and cheeses he can. That translates to an impressive plate of buttery escargot topped with croutons, seasonal salads, and a deeply flavorful French onion soup with a rich broth. Seafood stars among entrees, especially crispy-skinned roasted cod, though diver scallops with asparagus puree, showered with herbs and toasted almonds, also impress. Quiche of the day is a solid choice, as is the house burger slathered with tarragon aioli. Old-school cocktails are even better when enjoyed on the streetside patio. 175 S. Main St., Zionsville, 317733-8755, auberge-restaurant.com $$$

Ben’s BBQ Shack

BARBECUE Ben Hoffman gained a following for his old-school barbecue technique (smoked with hickory and cherry wood with no assist from electricity or gas) when he parked his trailermounted smoker outside Grand Junction Brewing a few days a week. When a 300-square-foot shack on Westfield’s main drag became available, he snatched it up and turned it into a prep kitchen and walk-up window. Standard sides like baked beans and cole slaw are available, but as you would expect, the meat’s the star of the show. There is no way to go wrong, whether you order the juicy, flavorful brisket or shredded pork by the pound, or a smoked pork belly sandwich with jalapeños and onions. The only mistake you might make is waiting too long to place an order. Your best bet is to order on the website in advance. 124 E. Main St., Westfield, bensbbqshack.com $$

The Cake Bake Shop

ELEGANT The fairy tale continues at Gwendolyn Rogers’s second tribute to layered cakes and buttercream icing, a pristine Carmel expansion dripping with chandeliers. There are hints of the twinkly, cottage-like Broad Ripple original in the white-on-white-on-white decor, but Cake Bake 2.0 is polished to a brilliant sheen, and the patisserie menu has expanded to include delicate fare like Chicken Velvet soup and frites. 800 S. Rangeline Rd., Carmel, 317-257-2253, thecakebake shop.com $$

Chao Vietnamese Street Food

VIETNAMESE Sourcing the beef and pork for

its noodle bowls, tacos, and pho from Fischer Farms, this strip-mall eatery delivers fresh, flavorful dishes. Shrimp spring rolls come with a rich and complex dipping sauce, and a bracing green papaya salad is refreshing. Pork-belly tacos are highlights among the lighter choices. A full list of coffees and bubble teas make this a great place to bring the family for an intro to one of the world’s great cuisines. 7854 E. 96th St., Fishers, 317-622-8820, chaovietstreetfood.com $$

Cheeky Bastards

NEW

ENGLISH Cheeky Bastards co-owners Michael Rypel and chef Robert Carmack fell in love with British culture and cuisine during travels abroad. Their Geist restaurant is a true tribute to the food, serving not only a classic Full English breakfast and sausage rolls made with imported meat, but also a very convincing fish and chips featuring crispy planks and hand-cut potatoes. 11210 Fall Creek Rd., 317288-9739, cheekybastardsrestaurant.com $$

Convivio

ITALIAN With a menu that traces the geographical regions in Italy, this is not your average Midwestern red-sauce joint. The pasta, including curled nests of black squid ink spaghetti and purple beet-infused fettuccine, are all made in house. The torchietti pasta, tossed with dried figs, black olives, basil, goat cheese, and Parmesan has been known to induce deep cravings in the weeks after eating, and the frutti di mare packs a generous serving of mussels, clams, shrimp, scallops, and calamari among tonnarelli pasta in a spicy and bright tomato sauce. Beyond pasta, the menu offers Neapolitan-style pizzas served blistered and hot from the imported Italian pizza oven, rotating regional specials, and an easy-to-navigate, Italian-heavy wine list that makes picking a bottle for the table a pleasure. 11529 Spring Mill Rd., Carmel, 317-564-4670; 40 S. Main St., Zionsville, 317-733-3600; convivioindy.com $$

Farmhouse Brunchery

BREAKFAST/BRUNCH It’s hard to resist the extravagance of lemon-curd pancakes with blueberries and cream cheese mousse or—on the savory end of the spectrum—cracker-crusted jumbo shrimp called Cowboy Chaps at this northside provider of daytime sustenance. Customers pay at the counter, as in an old-school diner, and can go retro with a serving of corned beef hash and a bottomless cup of coffee. Meanwhile, steak and eggs that come with the choice of sirloin, strip, or rib-eye, and the Seriously Adult Grilled Cheese stuffed with Swiss, brie, cheddar, Muenster, and raspberry-chipotle cream cheese are gateway options for brunchy indulgence. 8664 E. 96th St., Fishers, 317-288-0884, farmhousebrunchery .com $$

Field Brewing

BREWPUB This Westfield addition to the local craft brewery scene would be dazzling enough for its mod fixtures and bocce ball court that spans the family-friendly outdoor space. But the menu is as daring as it is easy to pair with the house brews. Tender lamb ribs with chimichurri are a standout small plate, and deeply caramelized brussels sprouts with hunks of bacon are some of the best in town. 303 E. Main St., Westfield, 317-804-9780, fieldbrewing.com V $$

Flight Burger

BURGERS Opened as a Burgerim franchise in

early 2020, Grant and Dallas Miller’s friendly strip-mall burger spot in Carmel features a surprising array of traditional and alternative burgers, best enjoyed in small flights to experience the variety. Start with wings tossed in one of several flavorful sauces and dry rubs, then move on to the all-Wagyu beef burger in traditional or slider sizes. The Western has the nice addition of bacon, barbecue sauce, and beer-battered onion rings, but some less-traditional flair comes in the form of a Greek lamb burger topped with tzatziki, or a salmon patty garnished with grilled pineapple. 650 W. Carmel Dr., Carmel, 317-6692256, flight-burger.com V $$

Grindstone Public House

COMFORT You can appreciate the original tall shop windows and pressed-tin ceilings of this restored historic building as you chomp into a fully loaded burger. Or, go for one of the more elaborate selections (such as a prime-rib Manhattan or chicken and waffles) on Grindstone’s Midwest-casual menu. A full bar stocked with all the brown bottles gives the place cred as a neighborhood watering hole. 101 N. 10th St., Noblesville, 317-774-5740, grindstonepublichouse.com $$$

The HC Tavern + Kitchen

CONTEMPORARY The term “tavern” hardly captures this swank addition to the Huse Culinary Group/St. Elmo family. A hit among starters is the lobster “cargot” with lumps of lobster meat in garlic butter and melted Havarti. Chops include the supper-club darling steak Diane with mushroom cream sauce and horseradish mashed potatoes, though equally regal is the Wagyu meatloaf enriched with pork and veal, sauced with a truffle mushroom demi-glace. The Yard at Fishers District, 317-530-4242, atthehc.com $$$

Hoss Bar & Grill

CASUAL The dining room surrounds a central bar where frozen daiquiris and peanut butter White Russians are blended to life and delivered alongside sibling brewery Big Lug’s beers. Chef Blake Ellis’s menu matches that fun energy with extrathick burgers in 6- and 10-ounce versions, gourmet hot dogs, and a stellar fried chicken thigh sandwich. After 4 p.m., the selection expands to include plated dinners and a nightly casserole. A soft-serve ice cream machine headlines the dessert offerings. 7870 E. 96th St., Fishers, 317-8413014, hossbarandgrill.com $$

Juniper on Main

SOUTHERN Chef Christine Daniel adds flavor every step of the way at this laidback salute to Southern coastal cooking. That means the shrimp and grits contain heirloom hominy; the grilled salmon is plated with chili-lime butter, coconut rice, citrus black beans, and plantains; and nearly everything arrives with a heaping side of okra. Even the sweet 1907 house that wraps Juniper on Main in a porch and pergola evokes the homey charm of its culinary inspiration and the owner’s former home of Savannah, Georgia. 110 E. Main St., Carmel, 317-591-9254, juniperonmain.com $$

Manelé Cafe

HAWAIIAN Menu highlights at this island vacation–themed eatery include a luau pork sandwich featuring tender, tangy-sweet kalua pork served with Polynesian slaw and pineapple salsa on a King’s bun, accompanied, of course, by macaroni salad. The cafe’s Loco Moco (the typically gut-busting morning mound of beef patties,

rice, eggs, and gravy) veers in the direction of health food with additions of bok choy, watermelon radish, and edamame. 703 Veterans Way, Carmel, 317-218-7877, manelecafe.com $$

The Mash House

DISTILLERY The distillers behind Kennedy-King’s West Fork Whiskey opened a second, destination tasting experience and spirits education center in the summer of 2022, pegging local chef and Westfield native Carlos Salazar to head up the kitchen. Start with a textbook Old Fashioned featuring house-blended bitters, and pair that with a plate of crunchy corn “puppies” with whipped maple butter. Head for the classics for main dishes, including Salazar’s pork tenderloin sandwich dressed up with Parmesan and fennel. A double “mash” burger with “fancy sauce” is a good bet, as are a throwback fried bologna sandwich with pimento cheese and tea-brined chicken served atop creamy corn pudding. 10 E. 191st St., Westfield, 317763-5400, westforkwhiskey.com $$

Monterey Coastal Cuisine

SEAFOOD The famed town on California’s rugged Central Coast provides inspiration for this goodlooking offering. Seafood entrees include a Fisherman’s Wharf ravioli and soy ginger–glazed salmon with forbidden black rice and wild mushrooms, while half of the menu revolves around cutting-edge sushi and traditional nigiri. The turf counterparts include elaboratesteaks, roasted chicken, and burgers. 110 W. Main St., Carmel, 317-853-2280, montereycuisine.com $$$

Moontown Brewing Company

BREWPUB The craft beer and barbecue come with

a side of Hoosier hoops nostalgia at this popular Boone County hangout. Its location, a former high school gymnasium, drips with vestiges of its hardwood past, but Moontown’s house-brewed beers are constantly evolving, from the Moon Lite Cream Ale quencher to Moontown’s robust porter, Into the Void. The food is kissed with just the right amount of smoke, served on paper-lined trays, and not limited to conventional barbecue. Though the beef brisket and pulled pork have that thick Southern dialect, the adobo brisket nachos, smoked Portobello burger, and Nashville hot chicken sandwich prove that nothing should be sacred. 345 S. Bowers St., Whitestown, 317-7693880, moontownbeer.com $$

Noah Grant’s Grill House & Oyster Bar

CONTEMPORARY The sushi list is solid at this surfand-turf spot, but even better bets are super-fresh oysters and savory short rib wontons to nibble on while you explore the voluminous menu. It’s hard to go wrong here. Entrees range from fish and chips to coconut-crusted mahi mahi to internationally inspired dishes like Korean bibimbap. 91 S. Main St., Zionsville, 317-732-2233, noahgrants .com $$$

Osteria by Fabio Viviani

ITALIAN You would never guess that the Top Chef alum’s modern Italian restaurant takes up residence in a dining room connected to Carmel’s mega Market District supermarket. Rustic fresh pastas, including pesto gnocchi with pistachio and a creamy pasta alla boscaiola with nubs of sausage and mushrooms, share the spotlight with oven-fired, Neapolitan-style pizzas. 11505

N. Illinois St., Carmel, 317-689-6330, osteriacarmel .com V$$

Upland Carmel Tap House

PUB GRUB See Downtown listing for description. 820 E. 116th St., Carmel, 317-564-3400, uplandbeer .com V $$

NORTHEAST

INCLUDES Broad Ripple, Castleton, Geist, Herron-Morton, Kennedy-King, Keystone at the Crossing, Meridian-Kessler, Nora, SoBro

Apocalypse Burger

BURGERS The Patachou crew repurposed its shuttered Crispy Bird location into this modernday diner. The focus is on a handful of burger variations and clever greasy-spoon sides like Old Major bacon–loaded fries and blocks of fried macaroni and cheese washed down with canned wine. For dessert, it’s a toss-up between Ding Dong cake or a root beer float. 115 E. 49th St., 317426-5001, apocalypseburger.com V$$

Aroma

INDIAN See Downtown listing for description. 4907 N. College Ave., 317-737-2290, aromaindy .com V $$

Baby’s

BURGERS This playful, family-friendly joint limits its menu to smashburgers, broasted chicken,

milkshakes (spiked or not), and cocktails. Housed in a former drag-show bar, it also has fun with the building’s artsy legacy—the house burger is called a Strut Burger, and all of the cocktail names come straight from the RuPaul meme factory. Sip a Tongue Pop or a Sashay Away as you polish off the last of the Talbott Street Style fries dressed with bacon, cheese sauce, white barbecue sauce, and pickled jalapeño. 2147 N. Talbott St., 317-600-3559, babysindy.com V $$

Benyue Restaurant

NEW CHINESE A longtime favorite as one of Indy’s only restaurants offering dim sum, the Lafayette Square standard Lucky Lou moved to the former Houlihan’s space at Castleton Square Mall in late 2022. While the name and modern decor may be new, the menu of dumplings, spring rolls, buns, and stir-fried favorites will be familiar to anyone who dined at the old spot. Classics from the all-day dim sum menu include savory chive pancakes, fluffy barbecued pork buns, stuffed eggplant, and black-pepper pork ribs. Daring diners will want to add a dish of aromatic chicken feet or toothsome honeycomb tripe to their order. But don’t forgo the very respectable pan-fried noodles or beef chow fun, as well as spicy Szechuan fare, complex soups, and lesser-seen dishes such as subtly perfumed cumin lamb, piquant steamed fish, and real-deal Peking duck large enough to split for the whole table.

537-2282, benyuerestaurant.com

Big Lug Canteen

BREWPUB

the Monon Trail, seasonal beers and house

standards include spins on wheats, ales, and IPAs. The menu is always filled with fun surprises (a Taco Bell–inspired pizza, for example, or a “horseshoe of the week” inspired by the gloppy sandwich of Springfield, Illinois) as well as excellent poutine, salads, and sandwiches, none more macho than the Nashville Hot Chicken. 1435 E. 86th St., 317-672-3503, biglugcanteen.com V $$

Blupoint Oyster House

SEAFOOD A blue dining room draped in rattan pendant lights and subtly nautical decor sets the scene for Gino Pizzi’s ode to coastal Italian fare. The scaled-down menu focuses on heartfelt dishes like squid-ink tonnarelli in lemon-cream sauce, misto mare, and pan-roasted salmon. Fresh oysters are shucked to order. 5858 N. College Ave., 317-559-3259, blupointindy.com $$

Bocca

ITALIAN A sleek renovation of the former Shoefly Public House location, this modern-Italian eatery shares DNA with siblings Blupoint Oyster House, Ambrosia, and Maialina—all branches of Indy restaurateur Gino Pizzi’s pasta family. Seared scallops share the dish with little cheesefilled sacchetti dumplings, and the lasagna is a light, mushroom-layered variety sauced with bechamel. The hulking lamb shank served with polenta is a showstopper, though. After dinner, descend the stairs behind the host stand to the basement speakeasy, for some sofa lounging and 122 E. 22nd St., 317-426-2045,

Broad Ripple Brewpub

We love the mainstays at Indiana’s

oldest operating microbrewery: a creamy beercheese crock, Scotch eggs, and crunchy fish and chips. 840 E. 65th St., 317-253-2739, broadripple brewpub.com V $$

Delicia

NEW LATIN This SoBro spot serves up classic sips and easy-on-the-eyes Caribbean dishes to a chic and boisterous crowd. The Fire ’n’ Ice is still the go-to cocktail for its chile-dusted rim and mix of tequila, hibiscus, and basil. Standards include smoky octopus tostones; bright guacamole dusted with pistachios; and enchiladas de pato filled with tender shredded duck and topped with habanero sauce, lime crema, and plenty of bubbling Chihuahua cheese. 5215 N. College Ave., 317-9250677, deliciaindy.com $$

Diavola

PIZZA Pies emerge expertly bubbly and charred from a centerpiece brick oven. Ingredients are simple but top-shelf, including homemade meatballs, which join the likes of spicy sopressata, smooth clumps of fior di latte, torn basil, and EVOO. 1134 E. 54th St., 317-820-5100, diavola.net

V $$

Festiva

MEXICAN This lively Latin spot on the east side puts a gourmet flourish on south-of-the-border fare. The menu includes tacos, plus an old favorite: poblanos stuffed with housemade chorizo and queso. 1217 E. 16th St., 317-635-4444, festiva indy.com $$

Half Liter

BARBECUE In the airy back half of the complex

that houses its sister event center, Liter House, owner Eddie Sahm’s Bavarian-themed barbecueand-beer hall has all the rollicking energy of Oktoberfest with the laidback charm of a Texas brisket pit. 5301 Winthrop Ave., 463-221-2800, half literbbq.com $$

His Place Eatery

SOUTHERN The chicken wings have a light shatter of a crust. The fried bologna sandwich can be upgraded to a coleslaw-topped beauty called The Experience. The smoked meats span the barbecue spectrum, from rib tips to brisket. Whatever you pick, order a side of cooked cabbage, a glass of The Uptown (a lemonade-heavy Arnold Palmer), and a cup of peach cobbler to go. 6916 E. 30th St., 317-545-4890, hisplaceeatery.com $$

Hollyhock Hill

FAMILY DINING Hollyhock Hill sticks with what’s worked since it opened in 1928: comfort in the form of chicken. Among the frilly tables, servers dole out platters of skillet-fried goodness paired with mashed potatoes, corn, green beans, and buttermilk biscuits. 8110 N. College Ave., 317-2512294, hollyhockhill.com $$$

Late Harvest Kitchen

CONTEMPORARY A luscious comfort-food menu delivers top-shelf versions of family-table dishes, such as chunked kielbasa (on a base of mustard spaetzle browned in dill butter) and braised short ribs. Dessert is all about the sticky toffee pudding. 8605 River Crossing Blvd., 317-663-8063, lateharvestkitchen.com

$$$

Petite Chou

FRENCH-INSPIRED The sweet-or-savory crepe dilemma is no contest: dessert. The brown-sugar version delivers gooey caramelized filling, velvety bananas, and sugar that crystallizes as you eat. 823 E. Westfield Blvd., 317-259-0765, petitechou bistro.com V $$

NORTHWEST

INCLUDES College Park, Lafayette Square, Traders Point

Amara Indian Cuisine and Bar

INDIAN Southern Indian and Indochinese specialties abound on the menu at this northside Asian eatery with a surprising selection of spirits and wines. Butter chicken, tandoori items, and familiar curries are solid here, but forgo more typical Indian dishes in favor of a variety of small plates such as eggplant and kale chaat dressed up with chutneys, crispy Manchurian cauliflower or mushrooms, and “juicy drums of heaven,” a platter of chicken drumsticks in a rich, tangy sauce. Don’t miss the playful fusion twist on saag paneer with spiced greens that comes topped with burrata. A full range of dosas includes smaller, fluffier uttapam dosas served with hearty rasam soup and two sauces. 1454 W. 86th St., 317-884-6982, amaraindy.com V $$

Chapati

MIDDLE EASTERN It’s not enough that the butter chicken melts in your mouth or the lamb kebab bursts with flavor—or that those family recipes,

passed from generation to generation, barely scratch the surface of a menu that goes deep into Pakistani, Indian, and Middle Eastern cuisine. This chill westside counter-service spot has a fried-chicken side hustle called Shani’s Secret Chicken focused on humanely prepared Halal fried chicken cooked three ways: tandoorimarinated and buttermilk-battered; fried and dipped in spicy-sweet sauce; and the batterless, dry-rubbed Faridi style that’s extra spicy. 4930 Lafayette Rd., 317-405-9874, eatchapati.com V $$

Oakleys Bistro

CONTEMPORARY The meticulously plated fare at Steven Oakley’s eatery hails from a culinary era when sprigs of herbs and puddles of purées provided the flavor, and every single element on the plate served a purpose. The presentations are wild, with menu descriptions giving little more than clues as to what might arrive at the table. Heads-up on anything that appears in quotes, such as a creative “Coq au Vin.” 1464 W. 86th St., 317-824-1231, oakleysbistro.com V $$$

Traders Point Creamery

FARM TO TABLE Dishes change seasonally, but the restaurant at this bucolic dairy farm always delivers a rustic opulence. Chef Jon Warner oversees a kitchen that turns out dishes like a wintry duck breast with wild mushrooms, turnips, and apples. For dessert, order anything that involves a scoop of ice cream. 9101 Moore Rd., Zionsville, 317-7331700, traderspointcreame.com $$$

SOUTH SUBURBAN

INCLUDES Bargersville, Greenwood

Our Table

CONTEMPORARY The location is suitably cozy and out of the way for Bargersville’s newest finedining destination, home to crisp leather booths and a crackling fieldstone fireplace. Chef and owner Joe Miller focuses on gorgeous, rustic plates of steak, seafood, and Old World lasagna made with fresh pasta and generous layers of beef Bolognese, mozzarella, and creamy ricotta. The $2 brioche sliders (take your pick of buttermilk fried chicken or char-crusted beef tenderloin with crispy onions and horseradish creme fraiche) are little bites of heaven. 5080 State Rd. 135, Bargersville, 317-847-4920, ourtablerestau rant.com V $$$

Pizza & Libations

PIZZA The personal-sized pies are presented on thin, fermented crusts at this Bargersville establishment run by the folks who own the neighboring Taxman Brewing Company. But the menu has surprising range. Shared plates include a jumbo ball of fresh burrata oozing over caramelized onions and blistered tomatoes, delicate beef carpaccio, and a version of octopus in squid-ink sauce that is not for the faint of heart. Chase your bites with sips of the When in Rome bourbon cocktail that has hints of lemon and basil, or pick anything off of the extensive spirits menu that includes a section dedicated to prosecco spritzes and trending aperitifs and digestifs. For dessert, do not pass up the baseballsized scoops of buttery-sweet housemade gelato in creamy, complex flavors such as raspberry,

chunky pistachio, and a lovely Italian stracciatella rippled with slivers of shaved chocolate. 75 N. Baldwin St., Bargersville, 317-771-3165, pizza andlibations.com V $$$

Revery

CONTEMPORARY This bistro offers approachable fine dining, with a casual workingman’s bar on the historic building’s back end. Unexpected small plates have included beets with whipped goat cheese and wasabi, and cheese curds fried in chorizo oil. 299 W. Main St., Greenwood, 317215-4164, reverygreenwood.com $$

WEST

INCLUDES Avon, Brownsburg, Plainfield, Speedway

Che Chori

ARGENTINEAN Marcos Perera-Blasco’s colorful westside drive-thru restaurant offers a delectable introduction to full-flavored Argentinean street food. A selection of traditional butterfliedsausage sandwiches and warm empanadas filled with seasoned meats are the focus of the menu. But do not overlook the seasoned burgers and cook-at-home sausages, from Spanish-style chorizo with smoked paprika to rich Argentinean black sausage. 3124 W. 16th St., 317-737-2012, chechori.com $$

Hoosier Roots

COMFORT Blink and you might miss this tuckedaway gem serving family-style mains and side dishes in a roadhouse setting. Chef and owner Greg Stellar runs the tiny kitchen, assembling sharable portions of house-smoked salmon, herb-crusted roast beef, beer-can chicken, and other rib-sticking classics. Diners take their seats at long community tables or smaller patio tables on the enclosed porch, or belly up to the little bar for something slightly more potent. Don’t miss the mini cakes—Texas chocolate or honey lavender with bauchant icing. 26 E. Main St., Pittsboro, 317-892-0071, hoosierrootscatering.com $$

Rick’s Cafe Boatyard

SEAFOOD You don’t have to be a Parrothead (though it helps) to appreciate the pontoon-life allure of Eagle Creek’s waterside restaurant, with its breezy dining room on stilts over the Dandy Trail boat slips. The menu gets creative with all of the casual-dining tropes, mixing smokedsalmon nachos and chicken cordon bleu fingers in with the jumbo shrimp martinis and oyster shooters. It serves all of the pastas, burgers, steaks, and entree salads you’d expect from a place that draws big crowds. 4050 Dandy Trail, 317-290-9300, ricksboatyard.com $$$

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A Higher Calling

SURE, EVERYONE HAS A CELLPHONE, BUT THAT DOESN’T MEAN IT’S NOT AN INSTRUMENT OF THE DEVIL. LET MINE BE A CAUTIONARY TALE.

BY PHILIP GULLEY

man in my Quaker meeting bought one. Being a dutiful pastor, I told him cellphones were an affront to God, but like most sinners, he remained unrepentant and went on to buy several more before dying and going to hell. Then my wife bought a cellphone, and our union, straining under the burden of technological infidelity, nearly collapsed. I eventually forgave her, and our marriage recovered, but for a while there it was a close call. A year or so later, the elders of my Quaker meeting asked to talk with me, never a good sign. I attribute the longevity of my pastoral career to having as few encounters with the elders as humanly possible. Our meeting began well, with them expressing appreciation for my ministry. Then they suggested I needed a cellphone, and that’s when things went south. I reminded them I had a phone, hanging on the wall in our kitchen, which worked perfectly well, but they were adamant. I purchased a flip phone, though vowing never to use it. As you can imagine, this raised several ethical and theological questions for me. Is it morally permissible to have a cellphone if your church elders require it? If not, and thus I go to hell for owning a cellphone, will the church elders join me there for requiring it? If I hook up with an old girlfriend on my cellphone, is that my fault or the elders’ fault? The pastor’s life is one moral quandary after another.

invented. Because I traveled a great deal, my wife, ever the temptress, suggested I buy one to have access to street maps and flight reservations. Of course, it’s a spiritual maxim that once you’ve made your peace with sinning, it’s nearly impossible to stop, so within a short time of its unveiling, I owned an iPhone and began my moral decline.

If you’ve ever seen a drug addict shaking and sweating, glancing madly around for a line of cocaine to snort, you’ll have a fair idea of what I look like after five minutes away from my iPhone. The tremors come first, then the fatigue, with agitation cycling in and out, followed by paranoia, when I accuse someone of stealing my iPhone, my hands wrapped around their throat, squeezing.

I had been warned this might happen by the woman at AT&T, hereafter referred to as “the dealer,” who sold me my first smartphone.

“You’ll want to buy insurance with that,” the dealer advised. “That way if you lose your phone, you can get a new one immediately.”

Being an idiot, I declined the extra expense, telling her if I lost my smartphone, I’d just go back to using my flip phone.

“No one ever goes back,” the dealer warned. “Not ever.”

I’M WHAT is known in technology circles as a late adapter, which explains why I still don’t have a television, despite its invention 96 years ago. Before I plunk down my hard-earned money on something, I want to make sure it’s not a fad, whether it’s a television or a car. For years, I resisted buying a gas-powered car, suspecting their days were numbered, but then in a weak moment I abandoned all reason and splurged on one, dropping $2,000 on a 1999 Corolla, only for Elon Musk to invent the Tesla. Now here I am, stuck with a vehicle that will be obsolete in a few short years sitting in my yard on cinder blocks. I feel like a sap.

When the first cellphone came on the market, a

In retrospect, the transition from a kitchen phone to a flip phone wasn’t as jarring as I had thought it might be. Indeed, sometimes I caught myself marveling at my flip phone’s convenience, wondering why I had put up such a fuss over something so minor. Then the smartphone was

I didn’t notice the hint of foreboding in her voice, the standing-before-the-abysspreparing-to-jump tone, so I waved off her warning. “It’s not like they’re addictive,” I said, which in hindsight are probably the dumbest words I’ve ever said. Now leery of the smartphone, young people are returning to the flip phone, the kitchen wall phone of their generation. When I stop shaking and sweating, I plan to join them.

Illustration by RYAN SNOOK

Philip Gulley is a Quaker pastor, author, and humorist. Back Home Again chronicles his views on life in Indiana.

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THOMAS MYERS

SUSAN CULLEITON

DINING ROOM/SITTING AREA DESIGNED BY KITTLE’S SENIOR STUDIO DESIGNERS

57 EAST 57TH STREET Daily Tours

April 29 - May 14, 2023

For information & tickets visit www.dshgbusinessgmailcom.ticketbud.com

Kittle’s has been a supporter and participant in the Decorators’ Show House and Gardens for over 40 years.