Indianapolis Monthly - September 2023 Edition

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Photography by Rebecca Shehorn

48

BEST RESTAURANTS

From casual joints we can’t get enough of to food hall delights and white-tablecloth stars, our class of 2023 encompasses the unrivaled eateries you need to try.

EDITED BY JULIA SPALDING

66

A NEW BEGINNING

Newlyweds employ custom millwork and a fresh floor plan to modernize a 1970s split-level house on an idyllic lakeside property near downtown Zionsville.

BY BAILEY BRISCOE

74

ADVENTURE FOR ALL

An active, fresh-air vacation isn’t just for the athletic among us. We show you outdoorsy trips to thrill everyone in your family, each within a day’s drive.

BY ROBERT ANNIS

A salmon rug is a bright foil to dark diningroom walls.

Photograph by Tony Valainis

PHOTO BY NATHAN EHMAN/HOTPLATEMEDIA

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25th, 2023

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General Admission: 6 p.m.

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GOOD

27

LIFE

WANTED

A handblown sculptural vase brings the sunshine indoors.

28

SHOP TALK

A new garden store brightens an industrial spot downtown.

30

TRENDING

Which of these eclectic art gallery finds would you bring home?

32

REALTY CHECK

The latest owners of one of Indy’s most architecturally significant homes unveils its new look.

34

BODY+SOUL

We clue you in to the what, why, how, and where of forest bathing.

36

TRAVELER

Grab a turkey leg and find your knight in shining armor in Lancaster, Ohio.

THE DISH

39 SWOON

Tako Seoul brings its eastmeets-west flavors to local pop-ups and private events, with plans for full-service taquerias in the works.

40

FIRST BITE

A local all-natural gin distillery at the Indiana State Fairgrounds pours an adult spin on a nostalgic summertime sipper; A new specialty Asian chain in Carmel fuses two favorite world cuisines; Logan McMahan of NicoleTaylor’s Pasta + Market + Backroom Eatery shares a trick to cooking fresh pasta.

42

FOODIE

Working both behind the scenes and front and center, Craig Baker continues to shape the way Indianapolis dines out.

44

TASTE TEST

These big fat cookies are packed with yummy extras. 94

RESTAURANT GUIDE A tour of the city’s best eats, from fine dining to favorite dives.

104

BACK HOME AGAIN

I’ve liked most of the 80,000 folks who’ve crossed my path—except the name-droppers.

V Code

Scenic Route

I WAS A DREAMY, free-range ’70s kid who had a tendency to wander off from time to time. Growing up in an age before cellphones, GPS, and Google, I’d while away the days riding my bike around the neighborhood, to the shopping center, or over to the ballpark, relying on memory and an innate sense of direction to get me where I wanted to go. Acting on the desire to explore my surroundings sometimes meant I would separate and go off on my own, much to my parents’ chagrin. I’d get lost under clothing racks in department stores. I once took an indecisive, alternate path at Kings Island that eventually led me to the lost children’s center (which struck me as a cool, secret hideout). One day when I was in kindergarten or first grade, I decided to walk home by myself instead of heading to the babysitter’s house after school. The grownups were not amused that I didn’t consult with them first.

In my travels as an adult, my childhood wanderlust comes out anew. My destinations of choice tend to be more scenic and rural, allowing me to disconnect from cell signals, Wi-Fi, and devices to take long, meandering drives and nature hikes with paper maps as my guides. If there’s a bumpy dirt road that leads to a spectacular hidden vista, point me in that direction. I might not get there via the most direct route, and I’m probably not going to tell anyone where I’m going, so I have to cross my fingers and hope that I can find my way without getting hopelessly lost.

For a variety of reasons, I haven’t ventured outside of Indiana much in recent years. But I’m getting the itch to take a trip soon. Our adventure travel feature by Rob Annis (p. 74) provides some great ideas for my next destination, as well as gear recommendations to make hiking, hydrating, or starting a campfire a little easier. In the meantime, I can trek to the 25 best restaurants in Indy (p. 48) to explore our local culinary scene. I might even take some back roads to find my way home after dinner.

Tim “Treeboy” Bush, formerly an Indy Parks supervisor and a features reporter for NBC/ WTHR-13 in Indianapolis, is now a forest adventurer and nature writer. He’s documented Costa Rica, the Amazon rainforest, the Blue Mountains of Australia—and now, the best spots in Indiana to forest bathe (p. 34).

New to the staff of Indianapolis Monthly, Graves joined in June as associate managing editor. An Indianapolis native with a penchant for Hoosier history, artifacts, and lore, she enjoys learning more about the state through the articles that cross her desk. She thinks the unique craftwork in the tramp art table made by William Klueh (p. 22) is especially cool.

Bob

Kravitz

A 41-year veteran of sports journalism, Kravitz has been on staff at Sports Illustrated and the IndyStar, among other outlets. Recently, he was named the Indiana Sportswriter of the Year by the National Sports Media Association. On p. 15, he shares a peek inside the world of sports writing, or as he puts it, “at how the sausage gets made.”

Tim Bush

Camille Graves

Andrea Ratcliff Editor-in-Chief

81 // DREAM HOME PREVIEW

Take a peek inside the 2023 Indianapolis Monthly Dream Home, which is open for tours this month. The 14,000-square-foot house in Zionsville’s Holliday Farms community was built by Homes by Design and designed by Dare 2 Design with the modern aesthetic tastes and active lifestyles of the owners in mind.

87 // SCHOOL PROFILES

Searching for the ideal learning institution for your child? Our School Profiles section includes details about the learning environments, focus areas, academic programs, extracurricular activities, and policies of a variety of Indy-area schools.

IN THE NEXT ISSUE ...

Fall School Open House Guide

Open house season starts in October, and we’ll give readers an insider’s look into informational events and tours at local schools. Take the opportunity to visit the campuses, explore course offerings, and ask questions of faculty and staff members.

Five Star Wealth Managers

Meet award-winning financial consultants recognized by Five Star Professional for high levels of competence, performance, and service to clients.

EDITOR-IN-CHIEF

Andrea Ratcliff

FEATURES EDITOR

Julia Spalding

LIFESTYLE EDITOR

Christina Vercelletto

ASSOCIATE MANAGING EDITOR

Camille Graves

DIGITAL EDITOR

Madyson Crane

EDITORIAL INTERNS

Jackson Luce, Reese Sanders

CONTRIBUTING EDITORS Robert Annis, Philip Gulley, Jeana Harris, Terry Kirts, Amy Lynch, Sam Stall

DIRECTOR

Margo Wininger

DIRECTOR

Maura Broderson

Bayer

Whitney

Luong

Birkle

Balardo

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CIRCLE CITY

A Good Sport

Bob Kravitz has been a familiar name around Indy for what feels like forever. The veteran sports journalist has captivated us with his distinct voice in stories for the IndyStar, WTHR, Sports Illustrated, and The Athletic and has his own column on Substack. He’s pulling back the curtain to reveal the secrets of the “glamorous” life of a sportswriter.

WE DON’T ROOT FOR THE HOME TEAM. Not the Colts, or the Pacers, or the Hoosiers, or the Boilermakers, or anybody else. Do you want to know who we— and by that, I mean most mainstream sports reporters—root for? We root for our story. We root for excellence, and drama, and emotion, and a juicy angle. We root for everybody to stay as healthy as humanly possible after spending the day bashing into one another at high rates of speed. Win? Lose? We don’t particularly care, or we shouldn’t, anyway.

WE HAVE OUR OWN AGENDAS. If you’re a Colts fan, you were on your couch late on the evening of October 6, 2003, cheering like crazy for the Colts to somehow overcome a 35–14 deficit in Tampa with roughly five minutes remaining. And that’s assuming you hadn’t already gone to bed, sure that all hope was lost. I was cheering that night, too, but not because I was emotionally invested in an epic, historic comeback like you were. No, I don’t hate the Colts. But my column on the apparent Colts loss was 98 percent fi nished, and for once I was going to make an impossible Monday Night Football deadline without stress. And then the Peyton-and-Marvin madness began—remember Brad Pyatt ’s kickoff return?—and the Colts somehow forced the game into overtime, eventually winning it all on a Mike Vanderjagt field goal. What joy! What pandemonium! What a disaster for meeting my deadline! A whole new column had to be written in 20 minutes. I don’t remember whether it was in English or not.

WE CAN BE SEDUCED BY ACCESS. If you’re a coach, a general manager, or anybody in a position of power in sports, you can immediately curry favor with the local media by being accessible and, even bett er, friendly. That means picking up the phone when we call. That means sharing off-therecord information. This may come as a surprise, but sports reporters are

human beings, and, as such, we favor those who treat us with a modicum of respect. Colts general manager Chris Ballard is a perfect example. He is marvelous with the media, always available and willing to share his thoughts on almost any subject. And for that, I think he’s gott en a bit of a pass for a seven-year tenure that’s included only one playoff victory and no AFC South titles. I don’t believe he does it to get positive coverage; I think he does it (and I might be naive here) because he understands and appreciates what we in the media do. And because he’s a good dude.

BEING IN THE LOCKER ROOM DOESN’T MAKE US THE COOL KIDS. It must be awesome, right, hanging out with sports icons in their locker room? Not so much. I don’t love locker rooms. Am I alone? I don’t know. Ostensibly, locker rooms and clubhouses are where journalists develop relationships and glean information. Yet I always feel like an interloper, like I’m hanging out at a frat house that wouldn’t let me join as a member. This is the athletes’ domain. It’s where they bury their heads in their phones, play pingpong and pop-a-shot, and shoot the bull with one another. I’ll never know the secret handshake.

A LOVE OF SPORTS ISN’T ENOUGH TO DO THIS JOB. Of course, we all enjoy sports; we wouldn’t be in this goofy business if we didn’t. But as I tell hopeful young sports journalists, you need to have an even greater commitment to and love for the art of reporting and writing. A lot of people know a lot about sports and can chew your ear off going on about the big game or that up-and-coming quarterback. But very few can write a well-reported, beautifully crafted piece about the game or that quarterback. So, if you’re a wannabe, here’s my insider tip: Read the classics. Read Styron. Read Faulkner. Read DeLillo. (Thank you for att ending my TED Talk.)

ATHLETES DON’T NEED US. We don’t generally admit this publicly. In the old days, back when I had a luxurious head of hair, teams and athletes needed journalists. We told their stories. We drummed up interest in individual players, and we helped franchises sell tickets. They knew it, and we knew it. Now, athletes can do and say what they want on TikTok, or Instagram, or, as the general manager of the New England Patriots, Bill Belichick, once called it, MyFace. And they can do it and say it without it passing through the media fi lter. That direct pipeline between athletes and fans has rendered us journalists somewhat superfluous.

WE HAVE THE COJONES TO COMPLAIN ABOUT FREE MEALS. Yes, the Colts feed us. All teams do. It’s been this way for as long as I can remember. And yes, that’s a perk anyone would like to have at work. But sometimes, well, we all bitch about the quality of the food, especially on game days at Lucas Oil Stadium. The spread, akin to the free breakfast buffet at a midscale hotel, includes scrambled eggs, bacon, sausage, potatoes, and bread. In fairness, they added an omelet bar late in the season. I’m not proud of this, but we still griped. At halft ime, they trot out sad burgers, dirty-water hot dogs, and the worst pizza ever. —BOB

KRAVITZ

“A LOT OF PEOPLE KNOW A LOT ABOUT SPORTS AND CAN CHEW YOUR EAR OFF GOING ON ABOUT THE BIG GAME OR THAT UP-ANDCOMING QUARTERBACK. BUT VERY FEW CAN WRITE A WELL-REPORTED, BEAUTIFULLY CRAFTED PIECE ABOUT THE GAME OR THAT QUARTERBACK.”

Collector’s Items

Q : I’VE GOT A BOX OF ARROWHEADS AND STONE TOOLS MY GRANDFATHER PICKED UP IN HIS FIELDS. IS KEEPING THESE LEGAL? A: Owning Native American artifacts might feel weird, but it’s likely 100-percent legal. Gathering such items off the ground is perfectly OK as long as it’s on your property or the property of someone who’s cool with it. (Things get trickier if you use a shovel, because “excavating” requires you to file a plan for approval by the Indiana Department of Natural Resources.) But don’t touch anything on state or federal land, where pocketing “souvenirs” is a misdemeanor. At the risk of stating the obvious, probing a burial mound (aka grave robbing) constitutes a Level 6 felony. If you do happen to find what you think may be a gravesite on your land, mark it, report it to the DNR’s Division of Historic Preservation and Archaeology, then leave it alone, advises state archaeologist Amy Johnson.

—SAM STALL

( UNSPOKEN RULES )

Makahiki: A Night of Tiki

A MANNER-FESTO FOR THE EVENT AT THE INFERNO ROOM ON SEPTEMBER 16

Buy tickets now. This annual event will sell out. A VIP table under the tent by the stage is worth the $350. With a $40 ticket, you’ll be milling around. Hang out for the DJ afterparty. The Inferno Room will be serving its regular menu. Or grab fusion eats from the food truck, Lil Rook. Prepare to meet fellow tikiphiles from everywhere. Bring cash for the vendors.

Ride-share; parking will be crazy. They have drink specials each year, but you have to ask.

Wear a Hawaiian shirt, kaftan, muumuu—or anything beachy in your closet. The party goes on, rain or shine. Did we mention you need to get your ticket now?

Top skinnydipping spots in Indiana

Per a national survey by MyDatingAdviser.com, a baker’s dozen Hoosier lakes are among the best in the country for nude swimming. The lineup includes the Lake Michigan shore near La Porte; Terre Haute’s Blue Lake; and Rockville’s Raccoon Lake. But strip warily. No telling how suited swimmers may react when you drop trou.

ask THE HOOSIERIST

BY RYAN JOHNSON; PHOTO BY JEFFREY BOND

CHAIRS + CHEERS

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CHEERS TO COMFORT.

CLOUD RECLINER

Dr. Charlene Fletcher, historian

CONNER PRAIRIE HAS LONG BEEN CALLED A LIVING HISTORY MUSEUM. BUT WHAT VERSION OF HISTORY? ITS DYNAMIC CURATORIAL DIRECTOR HOPES TO PAINT A MORE INCLUSIVE, NUANCED PICTURE WITH PROMISED LAND AS PROVING GROUND , OFFICIALLY OPENING THIS MONTH. BY SAM

Why did you focus on African American faith traditions in Promised Land as Proving Ground? That decision was made before I arrived at Conner Prairie. They applied for a religionrooted humanities grant from the Lilly Endowment, so that’s the focus of this particular funding string. I think they applied for the planning grant in 2018, and the implementation grant came in 2020. I joined the institution in 2021.

Why did they bring you in?

I’m an historian specializing in 19th-century U.S. history and with expertise in African American history

STALL

and gender studies. I was brought in specifically to curate this exhibit.

When you toured Conner Prairie to prepare for jumping into the project, what were your initial thoughts? Well, I had a fourth grade field trip to Conner Prairie like every other Indianapolis resident. But as an adult, I was kind of taken aback. What’s there is very Eurocentric. The historic village is sort of a composite, as are the characters portrayed in Prairie Town. They’re not actual historical figures, so as a historian that’s one of the things that kind of got to me. It’s possible to tell a historical narrative that also happens to be grounded in the experiences of real people.

With Promised Land as Proving

Ground, it’s all fully researched, and the characters are all real historical figures. When people experience the exhibit, they will learn about African Americans who lived in Indiana during the 19th and 20th centuries. This will all happen immediately adjacent to Conner Prairie’s fictional characters. We’re telling a more inclusive story and expanding on the historical offerings.

What is an example of that expansion? We’re giving more context than what one typically sees. You’re walking through this space, and it’s supposed to be 1836. Andrew Jackson is president. But what does that mean for people of color and Native Americans? Who was Andrew Jackson? That context wasn’t there. As a curator, my hope is to give visitors that context, so that they know what was happening during the time period we cover. Visitors might need to have that context and not just a basic or even romanticized story. Let’s dig into things just a bit more.

Does your end result deviate much from the original plan for the exhibit? The original plan was to focus on

19th-century African American religious history … specifically the African Methodist Episcopal Church (AME) and Quaker interactions with African Americans. I said no to that because it goes back to context. Why are we speaking about this particular denomination? AME didn’t start in Indianapolis, so why do you need that backstory? And why limit the stories of Black Americans in Indiana to their interactions with Quakers? It’s far, far vaster than that.

And Black people aren’t monolithic. When we talk about faith traditions, it’s worth remembering that not all Black people go to church. And those who do aren’t all AME parishioners. Some are Baptist, some are Muslim, and some practice traditional African faith systems. So to just lump everything into the AME experience did not truly engage this idea of exploring the African American experience in Indiana. I broadened the horizons.

So how does the exhibit work?

Three buildings on the property are central to the exhibit. The first is Origins Cabin, where the tour begins. The second is called the Resistance Cabin, and the third structure covers the 20th and 21st centuries. The exhibit is self-guided and located in various parts of the grounds, from those three structures to the blacksmith’s shop.

We’re covering a swath of history, and we chose to do that through technology. An augmented reality experience features locally produced segments about actual people who lived during [those] times [that] dive a bit deeper into elements of the story. Visitors can download software on their devices to watch this material. Members of the Asante Art Institute portray those actual figures from Indiana history. With your device, you can meet them. It’s unlike other elements of Conner Prairie where you have the costumed interpreters. You don’t need to engage with interpreters to experience the exhibit.

That’s a good segue into your opinion on costumed interpreters pretending to be period characters.

That’s quite a topic among historians because in some ways it can be troublesome. Those first-person portrayals are entertaining for some guests, but are people truly being

educated? You have a lot of emphasis placed on the interpreters creating a specific narrative, and so they wind up not being able to give those who engage with them the opportunity to have a conversation about the things they’re learning. Let’s say you have an interpreter portraying Frederick Douglass. How is he able to really engage guests? Can he suggest that they read a particular book or provide answers to questions when doing so would require breaking character?

experience. For instance, Lucy Higgs Nichols was an African American Civil War nurse attached to the 23rd Indiana Infantry Regiment. She was denied her pension after the war, but members of her regiment accompanied her to Washington to bolster her claim. Supported by those soldiers, she received her pension during a special session of Congress.

What was the most challenging part of the project?

When you get locked into a certain character and the context around that character isn’t given or only one particular story is presented, what’s being lost in those interactions can be rather problematic. To give another example, Civil War history is never just cut and dry. Actually, I don’t care what topic, era, or region you look at, all of history is very complex. When you have a set script that focuses on a fictional character, or even if it is an actual historical figure, without proper context or without the opportunity for guests to engage that interpreter, a lot is sacrificed.

Researching for this exhibit must have been an incredibly intensive process. For the past two years, it’s all my team has done. I have a team of four young, emerging historians who have done a brilliant job. They’ve learned a lot along the way, not just in terms of mining primary and secondary sources to provide context for the exhibit, but also growing into their professions. One of the most rewarding parts of all of this for me has been seeing them grow and develop.

What’s the most surprising thing that research turned up?

I was stunned by some of the individual stories of the Hoosiers we researched for the augmented reality

This is dramatically different from anything Conner Prairie has ever done. That alone was one of the bigger challenges—just creating this new exhibit with technology that this institution has never deployed before, plus confronting a history that the institution hasn’t addressed before. Meeting those challenges turned out to be very much a community effort, with folks like the Asante Art Institute and the Center for Africana Studies and Culture at IUPUI [being] instrumental in bringing this project to fruition. We were able to bring something new to Conner Prairie, an institution that hadn’t had a longstanding relationship with the African American community.

What are you going to do next?

I’ll be moving on to Butler University to serve as a history professor. I also have a book coming out in 2024, tentatively titled Confined Femininity: Race, Gender and Incarceration in Kentucky, 1865 to 1920

What do you most hope visitors to the exhibit will take away from it?

A sense of pride surrounding African American history—and curiosity. This country tends to want to start the discussion of Black history with enslavement. But that’s not where the story starts, and that’s not where it ends. I hope to ignite a desire to know more and to have necessary, critical conversations about this history. This is especially crucial given the current political climate with our elected officials actively working to pass legislation to ban the teaching of Black history in schools. It’s essential that these conversations continue so that folks actually understand this history and are not satisfied with some version of a watered-down narrative that we’ve all been taught for too long.

“THIS IS DRAMATICALLY DIFFERENT FROM ANYTHING CONNER PRAIRIE HAS EVER DONE.”

Tramp Art Table

VINTAGE: 1930

Resides in the Indiana State Museum

THE NAME SUMMONS up the image of a cheerful drifter with a polka-dot bindle whittling away. But tramp art—so named because it was made from castoff material—is labor intensive and delicate, thus can hardly be crafted on the go. (Art dealers found the name enhanced its mystique.) What all tramp art has in common is its use of notch-carved, geometric wood pieces. And its uniqueness: No templates for tramp art have ever been found. An exceptional example is this 29-by-22-inch side table.

Approximately 7,000 individually carved pieces of black walnut, white holly, and mahogany interlock to hold the table together. No glues or nails were used. It was made by William Klueh, the cabinetmaker for the Sisters of Providence of Saint Mary-of-the-Woods. Klueh gifted it to Mother Mary Bernard in honor of her feast day. —CHRISTINA

VERCELLETTO

Photo by TONY VALAINIS

SHOP. DINE. ENJOY. LIVE.

(1) French Market

September 9

A glass of Beaujolais or a bag of beignets, anyone? Indulge in French wine and authentic food prepared on site, then shop artisan crafts and enjoy live music at this long-loved street fair at the 100-year-old St. Joan of Arc Catholic Church. sjoa .org/about-french-market

(2) All IN Music & Arts Festival

September 9–10

Trey Anastasio & Classic TAB, Tenacious D, and interactive tributes known as dreamsets celebrating Led Zeppelin (with the help of Jason Bonham) and the Beatles top off the festival’s sophomore year at the Indiana Farmers Coliseum. allinfestival.com

(3) Pearl Jam

September 10

The grunge legends, “State of Love and Trust” songsters, and Rock & Roll Hall of Famers are coming to Ruoff Music Center in Noblesville for one of only nine stops on their 2023 U.S. tour. The Irish indie band Inhaler opens the sold-out show. livenation.com

(4) Circle City Classic

September 23

The classic parade and football game return after a one-year hiatus with a matchup between the Mississippi Valley State Delta Devils and the North Carolina Central University Eagles at Lucas Oil Stadium. The Battle of the Bands is at halftime. circlecityclassic.com

(5) Indy Jazz Fest

September 30

Two weeks of indoor and outdoor events end with a grand finale headlined by Boney James, Sheila E. & the E-Train, Stanley Clarke N4Ever, and others celebrating Indy’s rich jazz legacy at the TCU Amphitheater in White River State Park. indyjazzfest.net

Meet the Heroes Saving Animal Species

The Indianapolis Prize celebrates global conservation heroes.

Michael I. Crowther Conservation Forum

Thursday, Sept. 28, 5:30–9pm

Indiana Historical Society

Featuring MC Kristi Lee of The BOB & TOM Show®

Registration Required

$10 Admission, Free with university student ID

Meet a Hero

presented by Chris & Christa Adkins

Saturday, Sept. 30, 10am–noon

Indianapolis Zoo

Included with Zoo admission or membership

Indianapolis Prize Gala

presented by Cummins Inc.

Saturday, Sept. 30, 7–10pm

JW Marriott

Indianapolis Prize Lecture Series

Wednesday, Sept. 27–

Thursday, Oct. 5

2023 Indianapolis Prize Winner Dr. Pablo Borboroglu will speak at the following colleges and universities:

• Ball State University

• Butler University

• DePauw University

• Franklin College

• Harvard Museums of Science & Culture

• Indiana University

• Purdue University

• University of Notre Dame

For more information and to register, scan the QR code or visit IndianapolisPrize.org/events.

photo:S . Sere

The Indianapolis Prize is a conservation initiative of the Indianapolis Zoological Society, Inc.

GOOD LIFE

WANTED

A Place in the Sun

In her Clayton, Indiana, studio, artist Lisa F. Pelo dexterously transmutes 2,100-degree liquid glass into unique, functional pieces. In the handblown, signed-and-dated work String Theory: Spun Gold Over the Sunrise, Pelo mixes transparent and opaque glass to dazzling effect. “The clear threads wrapped around the body exhibit how glass, as fine filament at a super-high temperature, can be spun like a spider’s web, strong and fragile at the same time,” she adds. Whether a magnificent vase or cherished statement art, place it near a window or under a light fixture. Pelo has crafted it to “shine and sparkle, reflect and refract light from every direction.” Additional pieces in other colors available. $750. Indiana Artisan, 22 N. Rangeline Rd., Carmel, 317-964-9655, indianaartisan.org —CHRISTINA VERCELLETTO

Photo by TONY VALAINIS

New Ground

A SUSTAINABLE GARDEN CENTER GROWS IN THE URBAN JUNGLE. BY

MEGAN FERNANDEZ

A POWER STATION and an interstate loom near Digs Garden Center in an industrial pocket near downtown, yet you’ve never seen a place more full of life. Heath Outdoor has sown an oasis of creativity and color in the grit of Near North Mass (the area anchored by the Circle City Industrial Complex to the northeast of Bottleworks). Digs sells an array of annuals, perennials, veggie starts, and trees, plus compost, mulch, birdseed, and backyard chicken supplies. It’s also host to a wonderland of sustainably sourced art installations, including a front gate made of garden tools, a vintage robin’s egg–blue step van fitted with pots where the engine used to be, plant displays made of recycled shipping containers, and a retired grain bin. A path of permeable decorative pavers loops around the courtyard like a scenic trail, passing one surprise (tropical palms) after another (a casita that was once a micro-library and was rescued from demolition). But one of the most impressive surprises is invisible: As a part of its commitment to sustainability, Digs collects and repurposes all of its water in an underground reservoir hidden beneath the charming stone water feature.

Digs Garden Center

LOVE THE COWBOY HAT!

I’ve collected 15. This one’s a Stetson, my favorite. I pick up a few new ones

HOW DOES BEING A DJ AFFECT YOUR STYLE?

It pushes me to dress a little weirder. Who wants to see someone on stage in a tee and cargo shorts? My favorite artists—Prince, Bowie, Morrissey—are from the ’80s. The style of that era is an influence.

FAVORITE SHOP?

James Dant in Irvington is amazing. A little pricey, but you’re getting what you pay for. Those pieces will probably outlast me. —C.V.

(1) Black-eyed Susans, $19 (2) Nature’s Way cedar bat house, $40 (3) Philodendron Gloriosum, $45 (4) Cowboy Cauldron natural fire starter, $30

SHINE LIGHT

IN THE DARKNESS

A Gallery Walk

BEHOLD INDY’S CREATIVE GENIUS. BY STEPHEN

GARSTANG

(1) Screen Print No. 1 by Derrick Adams. $15,000. Christopher West Presents, 1497 N. Harding St., christopher westpresents.com

(2) Jaqui Gaeta’s three-dimensional Ancestral, cotton textile and oil ink. Price upon request. Hoy Polloy, 3125 E. 10th St., hoypolloy artgallery.com

(3) Amy Applegate’s Flowers, a 10-inch by 8.5inch, oil-on-panel painting. $1,000. Edington Gallery, edingtongallery.art, text 317-590-6513

(4) Robert Michael Pulley’s bronze and stone, 11-inch by 13-inch by 7-inch sculpture, Green Wish 2013 $2,500. Edington Gallery.

(5) Eric Lubrick’s Anemone Radio photograph, archival inkjet print. $300. Companion, 3715 N. Washington St., braydee@thisis companion.com

(6) Cory Robinson’s Manifestation SeriesOwl Lamp 2023 in cast concrete and bronze. Price upon request. Companion

(7) Kerrigan Clark’s Woods, oilcanvas wood panel collage. $13,000. Racecar Factory, 1125 E. Brookside Ave., racecarfactory.com

IF YOU WERE IN CHARGE OF HEALTH CARE...

…you’d price MRIs, CT scans, X-rays, ultrasounds, and lab tests about 70% lower. Just like Gateway Hancock Health does, at I-70 and Mt. Comfort Road. Learn more at HancockGateway.org.

Curve Appeal

THE LATEST OWNERS OF ONE OF INDY’S MOST ARCHITECTURALLY SIGNIFICANT HOMES UNVEIL ITS NEW LOOK.

BY JEANA HARRIS

IT WAS LOVE at first sight when Elaine and Tom Howard toured Evans Woollen’s Round House. The couple lived in another Woollen home nearby and weren’t planning to move. As fans of his work, they were familiar with the 61-year-old home— which has had only one previous owner—but had never been inside.

The home is composed of two connected structures, and its unique appearance comes from Woollen’s midcentury interpretation of a trullo-style house—dwellings with conical roofs found in Italy’s Puglia region. When it was listed, concern swirled that the home would be torn down to capitalize on its acre-plus corner lot on a quiet street in Washington Township. Then the Howards came along.

Elaine says they spent nine months upgrading all the mechanicals, replacing the roof, and repairing the plaster.

Cosmetic updates, like fresh paint inside and out and refinished parquet floors, were few. Much of the color scheme remained the same, though Elaine did switch to a soft green-gray in the kitchen and added custom Corian countertops. “The house feels feminine to me,” she explains.

Because the Howards hadn’t yet sold their other home, they didn’t have to rush—luckily—as it took time to find contractors able to tackle the unique challenges of such a whimsical home.

Elaine was passionate about keeping the original bathroom fixtures, but several plumbers advised replacement. She was thrilled to find Casey O’Brien of Moon Family Plumbing. “He went the extra mile and rebuilt the fixtures.”

While the couple looks forward to getting settled, they’re not quite done. The final to-do is a big one: a round garage. Their architect will use the original plans from Evans Woollen to create a “trulli” seamless design.

REALTY CHECK

A New Leaf

FOREST BATHING CAN BE A SIMPLE, HEALTHY ANTIDOTE TO TECH SATURATION IN OUR LIVES.

BY TIM BUSH

AMERICANS are outdoors less and less. A new Environmental Protection Agency study revealed that we spend 93 percent of our lives in a building or in a car. Yet physical and mental health may be waiting for us among the trees.

Forest bathing, aka “shinrin-yoku,” was first studied in 1983 by the Japanese Ministry of Agriculture, Forestry, and Fisheries as a potential way to address the country’s heart disease and depression rates. Their research found that spending as little as 10 minutes a day outside increased well-being. Other studies showed that being in a forested area lowers stress levels and blood pressure. Trees emit phytoncides, which are essentially airborne antibacterial oils. Breathing in forest air increases the level of infection-combating cells in our blood. Phytoncides also improve sleep and boost attention span and creativity.

Sometimes called forest therapy, the practice isn’t an exercise routine, and no,

Cleanse Your Mind

Ready to dip a toe into forest bathing? You needn’t go far. We have suggestions for three peaceful yet easily accessible locations in Indiana.

EAGLE CREEK PARK. Located on the far north side of Eagle Creek, Eagle’s Crest Nature Preserve trail is less traveled than others and a heavily wooded example of a primitive forest. 7201 Fishback Rd., eagle creekpark.org

FORT HARRISON

STATE PARK. Head down the Lawrence Creek Trail, a 4.2-mile loop that winds through upland woods and ravines. 6000 N. Post Rd., in.gov/dnr/state-parks

it doesn’t involve washing. At its most basic, it’s taking a walk in the woods.

“It’s slowing down so that our senses guide our experience. What we feel, see, smell, and hear keeps our focus on the now,” says Christy Knecht, an Association of Nature and Forest Therapy–certified forest bathing guide based in Huntington, Indiana. “At the end of a walk, I encourage the bathers to find a place to sit for 20 minutes. It’s opening our eyes, ears, and, eventually, our hearts to what the present moment has to offer.”

Jennifer Foley, owner of Balanced Soul in Broad Ripple, began offering guided forest bathing during the pandemic. “It was a safe way to rebuild human connection and to help establish a healing relationship with the natural world,” says Foley. Keep in mind, forest bathing isn’t one and done. Consistency is needed, but that’s true of any form of self-care, which is what Foley considers forest bathing to be. “It deepens mental relaxation and increases gratitude, selflessness, and wonder.”

PINE HILLS NATURE PRESERVE. Located within Shades State Park, this dedicated nature preserve was the first in Indiana and contains sandstone bluffs, hogback ridges, and species of pine rare to our state. 7751 S. 890 W., Waveland, on.in .gov/shadessp

GO DEEPER

The Nature Fix($14.83, bookshop.org/shop/ tomorrowbookstore) is a science-based guide to forest bathing.

BODY + SOUL

Days with Knights

THE ANNUAL INVASION BY ROMAN LEGIONS, HORSEMEN, AND VIKINGS IS HUGE FUN FOR FAMILIES AND ENTHUSIASTS. BY

WHILE LANCASTER , Ohio, isn’t known for its medieval history, you can go to its Charles Alley Nature Park on October 7 and 8 to stroll past the Roman Empire, through the age of the northern seafarers, and on to the demise of the armored knight.

The annual, free Days of Knights event (thedaysofknights.com) presents a historically accurate re-creation of the European Middle Ages. Organizers and participants construct a chronologically organized encampment. It features reenactments of the lives of ancient Romans, the Vikings, the Crusaders and soldiers of the Hundred Years War, early 16th-century German Landsknecht mercenaries, and the 17th-century hussar cavalry in Poland.

Cool field presentations include Roman legion drills (with commands in Latin, no less), Viking combat, levy training, armor through time, and weapons of the 16th century. New this year is a feast to show how the lord and gentry of the

CHEZ CHESAK

manor behaved, how food was served, and what sort of entertainments were had. Demonstrations of early firearms, cannons, polearms, and longbows illustrate how such innovations spelled the end of knight combat.

The living history enthusiasts who reenact these periods come from all walks of life and include doctors, firefighters, engineers, professors, and artists. They drive from as far away as Rhode Island and Minnesota, and all share a passion for the period and for presenting it as accurately as possible. An authentic sword can cost up to $4,000, while the custom, full plate armor worn by some reenactors is worth around $30,000.

But don’t think this child-friendly festival is all about warring. You also have the opportunity to play quaint period games, view tents and living quarters, see how meals were prepared and iron was worked, learn about early medical treatments, and more, all of which should make the kids come away realizing just how good they actually have it.

Lancaster, OH

DISTANCE

215 miles

DRIVE TIME

3.5 hours

IF YOU GO

EAT. Provisions Bakery & Deli (provisions bakeryanddeli.com), serving delectable sourdough French toast, flaky pastries, and a huge menu of sammies, salads, and soups, is a fast, reliable breakfast or lunch spot.

SHOP. Glassware retailer Gay Fad Studios (gayfadstudios.com) continues the legacy of local artist Fran Taylor and her elegant midcentury designs.

FOLLOW ALONG. The area boasts 25 “trails,” including ones for lovers of coffee, scarecrows, sweets, covered bridges, beer, and gardening. (visit fairfieldcounty.org)

TRAVELER PHOTOS COURTESY CHEZ CHESAK

Seoul Satisfying

Mycoe Andrews worked for the long-defunct food truck West Coast Tacos, which garnered national press for bringing one-of-a-kind Korean-style street tacos to Indianapolis in 2010. Now, he’s reviving the concept at local pop-ups and private events by way of a venture he’s calling Tako Seoul, with plans for full-service taquerias in the works. The menu lets customers choose teriyaki or Korean marinated beef, chicken, and beans in tacos, bowls, and burritos, including spicy steak tacos topped with onions and cilantro. But nothing beats the Maejor Quesadilla, a whopper of a fold with two kinds of tender marinated chicken, a three-cheese

SWOON

Photo by JES NIJJER

( CHEERS )

Fair Shake

A NEW DISTILLERY AT THE STATE FAIRGROUNDS PUTS ITS OWN ADULT SPIN ON A SUMMER SIPPER.

BY TERRY KIRTS

SELF-PROCLAIMED “cocktail nerds” Dan and Jamie Fahrner discovered their love of easy-drinking afternoon aperitifs on a trip to Italy a decade ago. Hi & Mighty, the boutique gin distillery they opened with friend and longtime chef Nick Traeger last year, however, pays homage to sweet home Indiana—in particular the Indiana State Fairgrounds, where they house their operations in the Southwest Pavilion. A pair of signature gins, one with citrusy floral notes and another that’s savory with hints of dill and celery, are the trio’s mainstay spirits. But the recent buzz has been about their canned all-natural, gin-based interpretation of the iconic summertime lemon shake-up, with an easy, light carbonation and dry botanical undertone to balance the sweetness. A cherry version came out over the summer. This fall, they’re branching out with a new drink named Sipper Club, a take on a Wisconsin brandy old fashioned with a muddled cherry and crisp citrus finish. drinkhiandmighty.com

PINCH OF WISDOM

“To ensure that fresh pasta, which cooks in less than half the time as dried pasta, is fully seasoned, salt the water even more aggressively, tasting to make sure it’s quite saline.”

–Logan

( NEW IN TOWN ) Blend Well

A new specialty Asian chain in Carmel fuses two favorite world cuisines.

CHINESE AMERICAN food has long been one of the most popular cuisines in the Western hemisphere. So, too, has Indochinese cuisine been in East Asia. Since late spring, The Monk’s, which has outlets in Houston and suburban Chicago, has brought northside diners a taste of this spicy, aromatic cooking style. Appetizers include momo (steamed dumplings filled with chicken or paneer and served with fiery chutneys), street-style wings, and juicy Drums of Heaven. Curries, such as the South Indian chettinad or the Telegu specialty gongura, are great for purists. But the true experience comes in such Chinese-style dishes as the delicate wok-tossed hakka noodles and the deeply flavorful burnt garlic fried rice. 13080 Grand Blvd., Carmel, 317-564-8266, monkscarmel.com. –TK

PASTA COURSE Iozzo’s Garden of Italy plans to open a second restaurant, Iozzo’s on Jefferson, in Franklin. MEAT HOOK Vic’s BBQ is the newest vendor to join the lineup at The Amp food hall. GOOD MANNERS Louisville coffee shop and bakery Please & Thank You opened an Indianapolis location on Mass Ave. BIG POUR Bier Brewery is breaking ground on a new Noblesville taproom with a 1.5-acre biergarten.

McMahan

Longtime local barista and food manager, who’s partnering with chef Erin Kem to expand the vegan offerings at NicoleTaylor’s Pasta + Market + Backroom Eatery

Ready to Roll

RESTAURATEUR CRAIG BAKER HELPS REV UP A FOOD TRUCK CONCEPT THAT LETS OTHER CHEFS DO THE DRIVING.

BY JULIA SPALDING

WHAT has chef Craig Baker been up to lately? Maybe we should rephrase the question: What hasn’t chef Craig Baker been up to lately? While the Portland, Oregon, transplant and veteran of Indy’s food scene pioneered family-friendly, farm-to-table dining here more than a decade ago with The Local Eatery & Pub, these days he mainly works behind the scenes. Baker does brand ambassador work for companies around the country and runs a restaurant consulting business that connects his name to some of Indy’s most ambitious projects, including the launch of The Amp in 2021. As a competition chef, he has thrown down in cooking competitions such as the World Burger Championship, and he recently helped revive the Chefs Night Off pop-up dinner series that combines the talents of local chefs into themed five-course events. Further proof that he isn’t slowing down, Baker plans to roll out a food

truck this fall with fellow chef Justin Miller (formerly of Anthony’s Chophouse). The concept, dubbed Ghost Mobile Kitchen, will call a converted 1978 Bluebird work truck home as it makes its way to local events and festivals. “The idea is to let other people use it,” says Baker, who describes the overall theme as “cheffed-up street food.” Rather than focus on one

menu, the food will vary. One day, the truck may offer Korean barbecue. The next day, tenderloins and french fries. Baker points out that chefs can also use the truck as a vehicle for testing out menu and restaurant ideas— and hints that he might be among the chefs using Ghost Mobile Kitchen to workshop an idea. “I tell people I have one more restaurant in me,” he says.

(1) My Bull Grill. “Perfect for summer meals.” (2) The new Saraga. (3) Adult Spring Break’s cucumber, basil, and lime vodka cocktail. “I add a little fresh lime and ice in a Yeti.” (4) The Gulf Coast. (5) French Steel Skillet. “I won a Matfer Bourgeat carbon steel pan, and it has been a game changer.”

FAVORITE THINGS

FOODIE

BAKER PHOTO BY TONY VALAINIS, SARAGA PHOTO COURTESY SARAGA INTERNATIONAL GROCERY

The Cookie Jar

Broad Ripple Farmers Market regulars know to beeline directly to this vendor early on Saturday mornings to get their weekly fix of Angie Perry’s puffy chocolate chip, floral lemon lavender, and tangy cranorange oatmeal cookies, along with special flavors that change by the month. Grab yours bright and early in the Glendale Town Center parking lot. @thecookiejarcrew_

Loaded Dough Cookie Co.

Average cookies don’t contain enough good stuff to please Indianapolis entrepreneur Kevin Lingg. So he launched his own company in 2015 to make them exactly the way he likes them—with at least 50 percent more fillings and toppings than traditional recipes call for. Check the website for availability and locations where these yummy multitaskers are sold. 765-969-6513, loadeddough.com

Monster Cookies

THESE FULLY LOADED COOKIES PACK IN SO MANY EXTRAS THAT THE SOFT DOUGH ENCASING THEM CAN BARELY HOLD IT ALL TOGETHER. THE RESULT IS A SATISFYINGLY THICK BAKED TREAT.

BY AMY LYNCH

Dirty Dough

Perfectly imperfect is the aesthetic for this stuffed-cookie company with locations around the country. Its signature

The Muscle cookie boasts 25 grams of protein packed into a chocolatey brownie base filled with peanut butter nougat and peanut butter chips, with fudge and more peanut butter drizzled on top. 6159 N. Keystone Ave., 317-537-0007; 13180 Market Square Dr., Fishers, 463-2781110; dirtydoughcookies.com

EDITED BY JULIA SPALDING

AFTER a troublesome few years, Indianapolis has become, once again, a great place to eat. It hasn’t been easy, though. There were heartbreaking closures. The supply chain went south. Owners struggled to fill their employee ranks. The 25 restaurants listed on these pages represent the most resilient, resourceful, innovative, and inspired survivors—the returning champions of good food.

WRITTEN BY Megan Fernandez, Terry Kirts, Amy Lynch, and Christina vercelletto

PHOTOS BY TONY VALAINIS

The Fountain Room

The Fountain Room

DRESS UP. Wear the cocktail number or the cuff links. Get a blowout or a proper shave. Arrive early for a drink and ask the babysitter to stay late. The Fountain Room makes the effort to radiate glamour and fun, and you should, too. Its aspiration is downright motivational, encouraging diners to elevate their standards for a night out to remember. A vintage reel-to-reel sound system behind the host stand fills the room with swingy music to match the polished flair of Art Deco and midcentury modern design. Big windows overlook the busiest, twinkliest corner at Bottleworks, incorporating the energy of downtown’s hottest hangout. From the terrazzo floors to the massive chandeliers, the Fountain Room drips with the style of a Wisconsin supper club’s fancy city cousin. What a surprise to find out that this confident downtown showstopper comes from Indy’s Clancy’s Hospitality, the home of humbler concepts like Grindstone Charley’s and a throwback burger joint. The menu takes cues from the steakhouse mold with big precision cuts of beef and simple seafood entrees, accompanied by family-style sides like bourbon-glazed carrots and skillet corn pudding fortified with polenta. The chicken and dumplings— fat, crunchy thighs walling in three biscuits and a pool of corn-studded gravy— makes the extravagant, old-school point decadently and deliciously. 830 Massachusetts Ave., 463-238-3800, thefountainroom.com

Cheeky Bastards

WELL-TRAVELED chef and entrepreneur Robert Carmack already had a strong presence in Indy’s food scene as the founder of Indiana Pickle Co. and an operating partner of the popular Italian food truck The Twisted Sicilian. But a sojourn near Birmingham, England, last year gave him a new passion for a much-maligned world cuisine and inspired the idea behind Cheeky Bastards, the British brunch and dinner spot on Fall Creek Road that he operates with gallery owner Michael Rypel. Taking great pains to impress even the most persnickety expats, he found a local farmer to supply beef tallow for frying chips and searched high and low for back bacon and true English bangers. Scones and house-made clotted cream with tea are musts for breakfast, alongside sausage rolls and “baps.” Dinner service showcases Carmack’s earthy, rich shepherd’s pie with a bit of pecorino in the mash, and a reservations-only, once-a-month Sunday roast makes for the true British experience. 11210 Fall Creek Rd., 317-288-9739, cheekybastardsrestaurant.com

Amara

OF ALL the local mid-pandemic restaurant openings of 2021, few impressed as much as Vinita Singh’s Aroma, located in the former Rook location in Fletcher Place. Moving local Indian cuisine from the buffet cart and presenting it with painterly plating, Singh focused on aromatic dishes rarely seen in Central Indiana. She quickly followed that up with a second SoBro location on College Avenue. Then, late last year, Singh converted Smee’s Place, the longtime 86th Street watering hole she owned, into Amara. She could have easily made it another clone of Aroma, but Amara offers even more ambition and a wider array of dishes from around the Indian subcontinent, making it one of the sleeper hits of the last few months. Chaat-inspired starters like lusciously crispy eggplant and kale fritters with vibrant drizzles of tangy sauces immediately announce the kitchen’s skill, and Amara’s take on Chennai’s legendary Chicken 65, showered with curry leaves and warm spices, will be your new favorite Asian cocktail snack. But don’t pass up the provocatively named Juicy Drums of Heaven or classic southern Indian curries such as the deeply savory lamb chettinad, perfect with crispy, light-as-air naan. Amara is also one of the few places to try uttapam, a thicker, softer, South Indian take on the dosa, served with chutneys and tangy rasam. And intriguing Indochinese dishes, such as Manchurian chicken and kung pao shrimp, ensure you’ll have an Asian experience like none other in the city. 1454 W. 86th St., 317-884-6982, amaraindy.com

Julieta Taco Shop

DON’T LET the size and straightforward approach of this long-awaited taco shop in The Stutz fool you. Esteban Rosas and Gabriel Sañudo’s tiny takeout taqueria, which opened in late July, pays homage to recipes of their ancestors, including Sañudo’s grandmother (who lent the shop its name), but their exacting approach to the humble fold is decidedly contemporary. You’ll notice this most in the slightly thicker, heartier blue corn tortillas, which arrive with a seductively subtle crisped edge. Slow-braised, griddle-finished fillings such as juicy pollo asada and fall-apart carnitas are as engineered for flavor as they are satisfying. Most exciting to Mexican cuisine purists should be the chewy, deeply browned crust on the lashes of pork in the tacos al pastor, shaved right off the spit. Yet the brisket-like suadero is a rich and earthy option you won’t find in even the most authentic Latin joints. Best of all is getting to enjoy your tacos with a highball or martini next door at Eddie Sahm’s vintage emporium of a liquor lounge, Turner’s Bar. 1060 N. Capitol Ave.

Vicino

THE ARRIVAL of Vicino, Mass Ave’s first full-service Italian restaurant in over a decade, brought with it several reasons for local diners to celebrate in late spring. First, it gave life to the bright and airy former home of Hedge Row, which had sat dark since the first few months of the pandemic. Second, it proved that Houston natives Chris Burton and Gus Vazquez, who perfected A-lister cocktail culture at their nearby clubby spot, The Oakmont, were serious about bringing more than just red sauce and pasta by introducing innovative Mediterranean dishes to their new space. Third, it showed that Burton and Vazquez understood the art of aromatic, easy-drinking Italian aperitivos with bar offerings such as an excellent Negroni, a fun take on the Aperol spritz, and funky coinages like the “Caspian Tea” with rum, iced tea, and Grand Marnier. Most importantly, its kitchen puts forth fun and smartly executed dishes, including some of the best arancini in the city (studded with earthy mushrooms), artfully restrained pizzas, a knockout panfried gnocchi with shredded chicken and kale pesto, wood-oven chicken, and perfectly seared branzino plated simply with slices of zucchini and eggplant. A playful tiramisu with spiced rum and coffee “caviar,” is, well, the mascarpone on the cake. 350 Massachusetts Ave., 317-798-2492, vicinoindy.com

CHICKEN SCRATCH

THE ORIGINAL spot along Keystone Avenue is little more than an open kitchen connected to a waiting area. Ever since Chicken Scratch came to roost here in 2021, that’s all folks have needed in their quest to get their hands on the best gussied-up chicken wings in town. The ordering process is simple and streamlined. Step up to the counter and choose your bird: traditional jumbo bone-in or hand-cut and breaded boneless. Then, decide if you want it naked or fried and either drizzled, drenched, or drowned in up to two sauces that range from classic honey hot to mango habanero. Loaded fries complete the experience and add even more layers of flavor—you can get them sprinkled with truffle oil and Parmesan or piled with chipotle-spiced sirloin. Later this year, Chicken Scratch will debut a downtown satellite on West Maryland Street that will add yet another option —on-site seating. That, and plenty of room to spread its wings. 5308 N. Keystone Ave., 317426-3457, chicken scratchindy.com

Root & Bone

RESTAURANT PARTNERS Janine

Booth and Jeff McInnis of Top Chef fame, along with executive chef Kellen Prough, have made their familyfriendly purveyor of “honest Southern food” a SoBro institution in the three short years since it opened. McInnis grew up on a farm where he learned to conjure up comfort food like nobody’s business but especially took to frying, pickling, and making preserves. (The menu is proof.) Despite being from Florida and Australia, respectively, he and Booth clearly get how serious Hoosiers are about our fried chicken. The pressure-fried Miller’s Amish Chicken, brined in sweet tea for two days and accompanied by hot honey, has that coveted crackle. The Southern sides plated on Root & Bone’s signature Blue Willow china (the South’s favorite tableware also hangs on a wall beneath exposed beams) range from grits gooey with pimento cheese, to real-deal sweet corn soufflé with cheddar and a sour cream tang, to a Watermelon & Pickle Jar bright with citrus. The Smoky Bacon Board is called a small plate, but the heaping pile of pork belly, marinated cheese curds, and house-made mixed pickles topped with crunchy fried pork rinds easily makes a meal. On the off chance you have room for dessert, entertain the peach cobbler, with its fresh fruit crowning a pudding-esque angel food cake coated in glimmery sugar crystals. 4601 N. College Ave., 317-6028672, rootnboneindy.com

King Dough

EVEN THE pickiest pizza aficionados will admit that Indy has upped its pie game in the last few years. Whisper-thin tavern pies, square-cut Detroit slices with crackly edges, and respectable local takes on the venerable Chicago-style deep dish abound in nearly every neighborhood. That Adam and Alicia’s Sweet’s Holy Cross crust shop, brought to Indy from Bloomington in early 2019, still charms as much as ever amidst all of its cheesy, oven-fired competition is testament to the total experience the Sweets bring to the pizzeria meal. Maybe it’s the pergolashaded patio that keeps us coming back to sip a bubbly Pink Moon while noshing on the blistered Everything Shishito or the meatballs smothered with ricotta and marinara (or, surprisingly, one of the best burgers around)—that is, when we can save ourselves from ordering an 18-inch. The Sweets (after having just opened Natural State Provisions less than a year ago) put an equal amount of care into the paintwork, neon accents, and wine cocktail selection at a second location that made its debut in Carmel this summer. Hopefully that means the Arkansas transplants are as smitten with Indy as we are with their fresh, feta-showered Greco salad and their Stinky Pete pie with mushrooms and both gorgonzola and goat cheeses. 452 N. Highland Ave., 317-602-7960; 12505 Old Meridian St., Carmel, 317-669-2201; kingdoughpizzas.com

Milktooth

THIS FUNKY Fletcher Place “fine diner” put chef Jonathan Brooks on the national dining map when it opened in 2014, landing Bon Appétit Best New Restaurant accolades and Brooks a Best New Chef nod from Food & Wine the following year. The breakfast-into-lunch hot spot’s fundamental ethos hasn’t changed much over the past decade, still proudly rooted in creative interpretations of quality ingredients. The kitchen turns out inimitable small plates that highlight oysters, wings, and beignets, as well as heartier fare like shakshuka, inventive grilled cheese sandwiches, slabs of glazed bacon, and gold-standard sweet and savory Dutch baby pancakes. The beverage program goes above and beyond the expected brunch mimosas (though a cava variation is available) with Bloody Sherries and a vermouth list. Because Milktooth still eschews reservations, expect a wait on the weekends. It will be worth it. 534 Virginia Ave., 317-986-5131, milktoothindy.com

Field Brewing

THERE MUST be something about this stylish suburban brewery that chef Alan Sternberg just can’t quit. Even when Sternberg took an extended hiatus from the spacious open kitchen to pursue other avenues, his influence ran deep in the crisp, deeply browned Brussels sprouts with bacon and maple gastrique, the textbook chicken sandwich with honey mustard and butterkäse cheese, and the addictive dips and lush salads that elevate the offerings beyond what you find at most brewpubs. He’s been back since late 2022 (and who doesn’t love a good reunion?), and his refined approach to seasonal cuisine shows. Sternberg’s evolving skill with pasta is most evident in recent specials, like gnocchi with summer squash and seafood-rich cavatelli with kicky nduja, tender squid, tuna, shrimp, fried basil, and meltingly soft confit tomatoes. There is also Middle Eastern spice-rubbed flank steak with tahini-rich yogurt, puffed quinoa, and carrots, as well as one of the best pork chops in the city, here served with brown-butter pineapple and Thai basil. They are all good reasons to stop by while this chef is still in the kitchen, even if most of the other customers are eating burgers. 303 E. Main St., Westfield, 317-804-9780, fieldbrewing.com

Bluebeard

WHEN FLETCHER Place-based Bluebeard debuted in 2012, it quickly achieved dining-darling status for two reasons—the innovative leadership of chef Abbi Merriss and the ethereal contributions of its Amelia’s Bread counterpart. Named after a Kurt Vonnegut novel, the low-key yet elegant eatery keeps a grilled bread appetizer presented with several oils and spreads for dipping and, well, spreading, on permanent offer. It’s the perfect prelude to a constantly shape-shifting lineup of soups, salads, and shareable entrees with special emphasis on greatest hits like the house spaghetti dressed in crème fraiche, parmesan, and gremolata; the spicy dragon shrimp; and tender octopus elevated with pancetta and grilled kimchi. On the beverage side, wine, beer, and spirits all receive their due respect, as does the exquisite dessert menu conceived by pastry chef Youssef Boudarine. If you want to linger a little longer after a weekend dinner, head upstairs to the cozy speakeasy above the restaurant for a nightcap. 653 Virginia Ave., 317-686-1580, bluebeardindy.com

FOR MORE than 20 years, chef Steve Oakley has consistently satisfied a clientele that continues to crave his inventive, wine-friendly riffs on traditional American/Midwestern cuisine. A perfect case in point—the whimsical shrimp corndogs that beat Bobby Flay tend to attract new waves of diners every time the Food Network episode re-airs. Under Oakley’s capable leadership, his unassuming strip-mall bistro has proven to be a solid training ground for many aspiring local chefs. Amid the warm and welcoming dining vibes, beautifully presented dishes like a lobster waffle accented with sauteed zucchini and tomato jam, sous-vide duck with seasonal accompaniments, and Stanley’s Meatloaf (a tribute to Oakley’s grandfather) served with potato puree and crispy Vidalia onions deliver on their visual promise and high expectations, tasting every bit as good as they look on the plate. “I like to serve things that are familiar and approachable but still creative,” Oakley says. We like it, too. 1464 W. 86th St., 317-824-1231, oakleysbistro.com

THERE ARE certainly more authentic, by-thebook Thai restaurants in town, but none of them feel as imaginative as this perennially vibrant escape at the north end of Mass Ave. In a tiny, magical space (the one formerly occupied by Ed Rudisell’s much-missed Black Market), diners dig into shallow bowls of braised-beef panang curry; plates of shatteringly crisp spring rolls fried to order by an actual grandma; sticky-sweet tamarind tofu; and piles of fresh laab salad as bright as confetti. Every dish on Bodhi’s menu, crafted by three generations of Thai women, is a gorgeous feast for the eyes adorned with edible flowers, slivers of citrus, and artfully placed sprigs of green. The tropical-leaning cocktails— impeccably garnished, of course—go down nicely when sipped on Bodhi’s vine-covered pergola on a warm summer night. 922 Massachusetts Ave., 317-941-6595, bodhi-indy.com

WHAT CAN we say about our city’s most storied restaurant that hasn’t been said before? The sinus-blistering shrimp cocktail, the aged-to-perfection Black Angus beef, the wine collection, the top-shelf cocktails (tip: savvy bourbon drinkers should ask to see the “Brown Book”), the outstanding service provided by tuxedoed waitstaff. We could go on, but the sum of St. Elmo’s parts reliably lands it on local best restaurant lists year after year. Initially founded as a humble tavern in 1902—nine years before the first Indianapolis 500—and still in its original digs, this fine-tuned establishment embraces tradition while still keeping pace with times and trends. Owner Craig Huse says more than half of all guests opt to start their meals with the shrimp cocktail, most of whom follow it up with a hand-trimmed steak washed down by an “Elmo Cola,” a miniature glass bottle of Coke charmingly presented alongside the restaurant’s branded cherry-vanilla whiskey. 127 S. Illinois St., 317-635-0636, stelmos.com

Zoë Taylor

STYLE: Chef-inspired pastries

The distinguished baker who cut her sweet teeth at Milktooth, Bluebeard, and Amelia’s turned to porch pickups to see her family through the pandemic, then kept feeding her rabid following galettes, sourdough brioche, and croissant toast bostocks (perhaps decorated with pistachio chocolate frangipane, cream cheese frosting, fresh blackberries, and fig leaf powder) every Sunday morning. Expect her bakery, Borage, to open in Speedway soon. borageeats.com

BOXED SETS

A handful of talented pastry chefs have come up with unconventional ways of getting their sweet treats into customers’ hands. Here’s how to find them.

Afternoon Chai

STYLE: Pinky-finger treats

Manjari Shah and Marie Ruchi, the mother and daughter behind this popular chai maker, bake up Indian snacks—proper scones with saffron clotted cream, pistachio cake rusk, and chutney tea sandwiches—to serve with their regular formal drink service. Twice a year, they offer their followers boxes of cream scones and hand pies. Watch social media for an announcement around Valentine’s Day. theafternoonchai.com

Beurre Sec

STYLE: Classic European patisserie

Foodies stand in line for an hour for Chantell Kayyod’s masterpieces, using the time to Google the unfamiliar menu items (viennoiseries, Saint Honoré cake, kouglof). The Le Cordon Bleu–trained pastry chef sells only at monthly pop-ups and limits customers to one of each item on the menu, which has included a passion fruit coconut tart, as well as laminated French staples with timeless flavors like chocolate and almond. The next pop-up is September 24 at Lulu’s Coffee & Bakehouse. No preorders—first come, first serve starting at 8 a.m.

Cafe Babette

STYLE: Big and messy

In just a few months, tireless entrepreneurs and young parents Cheyenne and Ryan Norris taught themselves the finer points of brioche, croissants, and doughnuts, as well as advanced moves like Basque cake. Their signature bakes have included half-pound cookies, twice-baked croissants, filled sourdough doughnuts, and a cruffin (croissant muffin) overfilled with strawberry-hibiscus jam and mascarpone chantilly. Preorder for porch pickups in Franklin on Saturdays, and stay tuned for a southside brick-and-mortar. cafebabette.com

BEHOLDER

CHEF AND owner Jonathan Brooks, a gifted boundary-pusher, unleashes his creative impulses at this sexy converted car mechanic’s shop on the edge of Windsor Park. Take a seat in the central room, which is flanked by a performance prep kitchen (where plates—on one recent night ranging from fresh pasta rags with wagyu beef tongue to halibut over fermented potato and snap pea hash—come together in a creative frenzy) and a full-service bar, whence your craft cocktail comes. Those high-top tables and bar-side chairs are the best seats in town for a show starring quirky, of-themoment ingredients. The menu is brief but fine-tuned, laid out with the smaller morsels on top, larger plates toward the bottom, and a few artisanal ice creams for dessert—making it easy to order a meal with a perfect beginning, middle, and end. 1844 E. 10th St., 317-419-3471, beholderindy.com

Tinker Street

ORIGINALLY CONCEIVED as a neighborhood restaurant for the people, Tinker Street breathed new life into the East 16th Street corridor when it opened eight years ago, skillfully blending elements of both fast casual and fine dining. The beloved eatery is nothing if not a survivor, reemerging from bouts of controversy and the Covid-19 pandemic with a renewed sense of purpose and grace. The exemplary hospitality and a chef-driven selection of small and large plates complemented by thoughtfully curated wine offerings remain the cornerstones of the convivial establishment thanks to the combined efforts of executive chef Tyler Shortt in the kitchen, sommelier Ashlee Nemeth, and bar manager Jess Johnson. The menu changes often to reflect seasonality; in summer, expect fanciful spins on summer tomatoes, corn, peaches, oysters, mushrooms, pastas, and pork. You can’t go wrong with the weekly burger specials. Even better, stop in on Sunday nights for gorgeous wood-fired pizzas. 402 E. 16th St., 317-925-5000, tinkerstreetrestaurant.com

Nando’s Mexican & Brazilian Cuisine

OWNER CRISTIANO Rodrigues came to the states from Belo Horizonte, Brazil. His wife-to-be, Elizabeth Fernandez, is Mexican. Their native cuisines combine in so many delicious ways at their new restaurant in Broad Ripple, where classic Brazilian comfort dishes such as bolinho de bacalhau (crispy salt cod croquettes) and moqueca de peixe (white fish and coconut milk stew) share the table with arroz con pollo made with Miller Farm chicken and bottom-cut steak fajitas. The space is tiny, a sexy do-over of the original Sangrita Saloon, with a cozy bar and roomy side patio that are both nice spots to explore a caipirinha flight or sip a margarita-style riff on the fruity-spicy mangollada, which comes with a tangy Tajín and chamoy rim. 834 E. 64th St., 317-377-4779

FESTIVA

INSTEAD OF standard chips and salsa, the pre-meal snack at George Muñoz’s colorful corner restaurant on East 16th Street is a little skillet of puffed wheat duros drizzled with hot sauce. They’re addictively salty, spiced with chili and lemon—your first clue that Festiva is a different kind of Mexican restaurant. Muñoz (who also owns La Chinita Poblana, the walk-up taqueria that once served mini street tacos on Broad Ripple Avenue, now living on inside The Garage food hall) makes every dish a celebration. The callos de hacha—pan-seared scallops with charred esquites and creamy poblano mashed potatoes—first appeared as a special but proved popular enough to earn a permanent spot on the menu. The braised pork ribs are prepared with an adobo dry rub and served ready to fall apart with agave-guajillo glaze and chipotle crema. The whole-roasted Poblano Fundido is reminiscent of a relleno but oozing with chorizo and ranchera salsa that you scoop up with tortillas. If you crave sopes, overstuffed empanadas, or gorditas filled with crispy pork rinds, check out the rotating Masa of the Day selection. Cocktails are especially thirst-quenching on days when you can sit in the open-air porch or grab a stool at the indoor/outdoor bar that feels like a resort. If you still miss your standard-issue basket of tortilla chips, Muñoz serves his alongside guacamole studded with pumpkin seeds and bright pops of pomegranate. 1217 E. 16th St., 317-635-4444, festivaindy.com

VIDA

THE HOME base of 2022 James Beard Best Chef semifinalist Thomas Melvin provides an appropriately stylish playground for experimenting and perfecting. The four- and six-course tasting menus, the main mode of dining at this Cunningham Restaurant Group showstopper, lets diners play a satisfying game of multiple choice. Will it be delicate slivers of bluefin tuna or beef tartare with preserved lemon and quail egg? The scallops or decadent foie gras brightened with strawberry and Fresno chile jam? The grass-fed Niman Ranch ribeye or harissa shrimp? Dining with a group of people who like to share is the best way to sample everything. But when the dessert course rolls around, expect some competition for the pillowy ricotta doughnuts slicked with bourbon maple glaze and plated with candied bacon, maple cream, brown butter crumble, and sea salt caramel ice cream—one of the menu’s few holdouts from its original incarnation. 601 E. New York St., 317-420-2323, vida-restaurant.com

NEXt COURSE

9th STREET BISTRO

WE CAN no longer kid ourselves that Samir and Rachel Firestone Mohammad’s tiny Noblesville restaurant is still our little secret. The James Beard Foundation made it official this year when it named Samir a Best Chef semifinalist in the Great Lakes region. Still, the shotgun-style space that made its debut during the Covid-19 shutdown of 2021 is the essence of cozy. The tables—all nine of them— line up sweetly along exposed brick and robin’s egg–blue walls in a dining room festooned with thoughtful bric-a-brac. A vintage pottery vase of flowers here. A complete set of Childcraft encyclopedias there. The decor sets the perfect playfully quaint scene for grilled artichokes, bison meatballs, eggplant caponata, and pork chops with pimento cheese risotto. Samir focuses on fresh local ingredients, and the close-to-home references don’t stop there. “The Old Towners” cocktail list takes inspiration from Noblesville notables and friends of the restaurant. Employees pick recipients for the donations collected from “Pay It Forward” jars in the bathrooms. Every few months, the owners scoot the tables into one long row for a prix fixe family-style Community Dinner highlighting the chef’s current obsessions—a wonderful demonstration of how this husband-andwife team have built more than just a restaurant. They’ve built a community. 56 S. 9th St., Noblesville, 317- 774-5065, 9thstbistro.com

Kyle Humphreys

CURRENT GIG Shoyu Ramen Shop

After attending the Tokyo Ramen Academy in Japan, Humphreys applied his noodle-making skills to this true-blue ramen pop-up that eventually found a permanent home inside Irvington tiki bar Strangebird. His most impressive flex is that he makes his own noodles—a tedious step that most ramen shops wouldn’t even consider.

Youssef Boudarine

CURRENT GIG Anthony’s Chophouse, Bluebeard Boudarine, a gifted pastry chef who grew up in Central Morocco, honed his skills in bakeries in Casablanca and parts of Spain and France, including the famous Ladurée in Paris. He came to Indianapolis to work for a friend at a car dealership but eventually found his way back to the world of cakes and macarons. Diners at two of Indy’s top restaurants know to save room for Boudarine’s imaginative constructions.

Michael Conley

CURRENT GIG Kan-Kan

Having trained under Bluebeard executive chef Abbi Merriss, Conley was tapped to head up the kitchen at the restaurant’s sibling miniplex theater and Euro-style bistro in Windsor Park. Seafood, vegetarian workarounds, and moviethemed dinners are what he brings to the table.

Theresa Borel

CURRENT GIG Chef Borel’s Kitchen Borel grew up in a New Orleans restaurant family but originally pursued a career in hair and makeup. After 20 years, she switched paths, attended culinary school, and eventually launched her own Cajun and Creole takeout business on Michigan Road, where she has built a loyal following on seafood gumbo, Hoppin’ John, and crawfish etouffee.

Grace Seibert

CURRENT GIG GANGGANG

Those lucky enough to have attended one of Seibert’s dinners at Indianapolis art gallery Companion (with themes including a culinary take on an exhibiting artist’s work, a Korean family-style feast, and a summer solstice banquet “inspired by customs, foods, and texts of the Middle Age”) got a taste of the chef’s artistic, communal approach to serving food. The menu and the presentation itself are performance art. “This is really just like an experimental project,” says Seibert.

For a glance into the future of Indy’s ever-evolving dining scene, track down these up-and-coming creatives who represent the next wave of great local chefs.

ANTHONY’S CHOPHOUSE

A NATURAL choice for special occasions and other big nights out, Main Street Carmel’s modern cathedral of decorative brick and three-story windows knows how to indulge diners with the best food and drink. On-point servers could do their own TED Talks on high-end steaks and the exquisitely marbled cuts outlined on the Butcher Block section of Anthony’s menu. True carnivores are treated to well-pedigreed steaks, including the elusive spinalis and an Australian wagyu beef Wellington. Sides of twice-broiled Yukons and lobster au gratin are served in familystyle portions proportional to the large-format proteins. Desserts that look like works of pop art arrive as an after-dinner bonus round. 201 W. Main St., Carmel, 317-740-0900, anthonyschop house.com

TRAX BBQ

OWNER ANDREW KLEIN puts his own spin on barbecue at this no-frills smokehouse just off the railroad tracks in McCordsville. One glance at the menu posted on the wall makes this clear. Beyond the hickory-smoked pulled pork, the brisket sliced to incorporate both lean and fatty bits, the smoked spareribs, and the bone-in smoked chicken quarters, you can see where Klein, a veteran of local steakhouses, shows his creative grit. The Trax PBLT adds pulled pork and the house Bama Blanco sauce to a Texas toast BLT. There’s a sausage roll with beer cheese and caramelized onions. And The Willie (Klein’s favorite sandwich) crams a heap of tender brisket into a brioche bun and adds liquid cheese and slaw. You can order meat combos by the sheet pan and even get your Polaroid on the entryway wall if you polish one off in competitive-eating mode. Just don’t miss the month’s featured bread pudding. 7724 Depot St., McCordsville, 317-335-7675, traxbbq.com

OUR TABLE AMERICAN BISTRO

THIS WARM slice of Americana in Bargersville exudes a sweet charm that aligns with its cornfield-adjacent location on the southern outskirts. The low-lit coziness gets a boost from a fireplace that flickers in one corner of the room and a glassed-in wine room that doubles as a dining room, often filled with long tables of folks celebrating some kind of special occasion. The family-friendly ambience blends seamlessly with some fine-tuned flourishes of upscale dining— expect both fried chicken sliders and wine suggestions. The menu doesn’t dive too deep; there is a steak (an 8-ounce filet that you can enhance with a gorgonzola crust, mushrooms, or chili hollandaise), a shrimp pasta, a char-crusted double smashburger that’s really good, and some deliciously gussied-up fish. But first, individual loaves of crusty hotfrom-the-oven bread with rosemary-flecked butter appear as soon as you sit down, like a heartfelt welcome. And yes, you will want to sit and stay for a while. 5080 State Rd. 135, Bargersville, 317-530-2624, ourtablerestaurant.com

Know your downtown food halls.

CALL IT counter intuitive—small stalls are delivering big flavors. To say this trend is going strong is to wonder why it ever waned in the first place. Everyone wins with a food hall—enterprising chefs sharing location overhead, a workforce wanting options, groups of diners trying to please each member, neighborhoods enlivened by the foot traffic. Finally, the communal concept has caught on beyond the mall and City Market (222 E. Market St. ), which continues to fend off the competition as a reliable place to find Middle Eastern, Mexican, Greek, deli, and other counter fare. The Garage food hall (Bottleworks District, 906 Carrollton Ave. ) has the best selection—bursting Venezuelan cachapas and arepas at Azúcar Morena, spot-on ramen and buns at Lil Dumplings Noodle Bar, ambitious ice cream flavors at Lick—and the liveliest atmosphere, from a borderline-chaotic daily bustle to trivia nights and live DJs. The Amp (1220 Waterway Blvd. ), despite its name, is tamer, diluting the noise with a patchwork of colorful shipping containers and original buildouts for 17 vendors. There are usually a few vacant spots, but Indy success stories like Caplinger’s Fresh Catch, Circle City Sweets, and Tinker Coffee Co. have stuck around. Don’t miss the glitter bomb strawberries at Punkin’s Pies or the bright veggie bowls at Yamallama Delicatessen. Expanding the one-hall concept to a walkable restaurant row, The Stutz (1060 N. Capitol Ave. ) clumps Turner’s Bar, Amelia’s, and Cafe Patachou around a fetching pedestrian-only courtyard strung with white lights. At Barista Parlor coffee shop, the giant oval counter is a nod to the Indianapolis Motor Speedway’s track. Julieta Taco Shop (see p. 51) slices up authentic al pastor to order and serves slowroasted pork adobo on fresh-pressed corn tortillas grab-and-go-style, which mimics the food hall soul, if not the precise setup.

LOVE HANDLE

THIS ISN’T your typical breakfast-to-brunch spot. The regular quiche-nibblers and mimosa-sippers might feel a little out of place gazing up at Chris and Ally Benedyk’s chalkboard menu, a meandering scrawl of decadent savories: loaded lox home fries, surf-and-turf breakfast sando, Bang Bang shrimp egg roll, country-fried catfish breakfast. Yes, yes, yes, and yes! Just don’t dawdle. An additional note under the day’s offerings warns, “We got it, til we don’t.” But also, every time you visit Love Handle, with its kitschy-core art and old-school beer case, the options have switched over to equally out-there concoctions (do not sleep on the gravy, though). Every visit is a new adventure, so buckle—or maybe unbuckle?—up. 877 Massachusetts Ave., 317-384-1102

PHOTOS BY TODD URBAN

the gang’s all here

LATE HARVEST KITCHEN

THE ALLURE of Ryan Nelson’s northside restaurant has been working its magic on us for a while. That crispy Potatoes Minneapolis hashbrown as fat as a throw pillow, the shaved Brussels sprouts salad with sieved egg, the chicken schnitzel, and the classic sticky toffee pudding belong in Indy’s culinary hall of fame. The menu rarely strays from its original globally influenced, locally sourced sensibilities, thank goodness. The crew of spiffy servers never miss a mark. But sometimes Nelson surprises us with seasonal one-offs like the ephemeral goat cheese–stuffed squash blossom or a lemon icebox cake as sweet as the summer day is long, and we are reminded why we fell in love with Late Harvest Kitchen in the first place. 8605 River Crossing Blvd., 317-663-8063, lateharvestkitchen.com

TAKING THE PLUNGE Emily and Peter Lachmann share a tender moment poolside during their wedding day a year ago.

By Bailey Briscoe

A ZIONSVILLE COUPLE WAS SO IN LOVE WITH THEIR RENOVATED HOME AND SCENIC PROPERTY FEATURING A PRIVATE LAKE, THEY DECIDED TO TIE THE KNOT THERE.

House Photos by Nathan Ehman | Wedding Photos by Susan Jordan

MILY LACHMANN and her husband Peter sit at their large, wood-topped kitchen island looking out of the glass front door of their house to the pond where they exchanged wedding vows last fall. It was this view, and the rest of the 3.5 acres of property, that sold the couple on the ’70s-style home with a less-than-ideal floor plan.

When the house, which is less than a mile from downtown Zionsville, hit the market in 2020, Peter got it under contract in less than 48 hours. Even though he had just settled into a freshly renovated home in another part of town, this purchase was a no-brainer. “Both Emily and I grew up with a lot of land, so that was important to us,” he says. “We wanted privacy and room to stretch.”

Shortly after acquiring the keys, Peter had interior designer Jenni Egger, founder of Jenni Egger Designs, at the ready to transform the closed-off, trilevel layout into a balanced, openconcept home fit for a growing family. Peter and Emily trusted Egger to help them see past the existing design of the house and envision the future of what it could be. “The land was magnificent,” Egger says. “But the house was just ordinary.”

Staying true to her remodeling roots, Egger and her team of contractors reimagined the entire first floor. Walls came down, the kitchen was gutted, rooms were rearranged, and new sight lines were created where there were once doors. The demo resulted in a clear view from the dining area, through the kitchen, and into the sunken living room.

After six months of renovations, Peter and Emily fell in love with more than just the outside of their new home. It went from basic digs to a dwelling so dialed into the couple’s personalities that they wanted to tie the knot there. With a backyard tent, wooden arbor, and an exterior paint job, they outfitted the site to host their friends and family for the wedding of their dreams. “We love where we live, and getting married here makes the house even more special,” Emily says.

They’ve since experienced more memorable events in their abode with an ease the home’s former state wouldn’t have allowed. For example, it’s become tradition for dinner party guests to filter from the formal dining area to the expansive island in the kitchen area for late-night drinks. Before, the dining room and kitchen were closed off from each other.

The espresso-colored island serves as the kitchen’s centerpiece, taking up most of the space’s floor plan lengthwise. A half-dozen stools scoot up to the counter, with a view of the tile-covered back wall. This is where

Egger’s influence shines, highlighting lighter, brighter tones. To tie the whole space together, the stove hood and floating shelves are wrapped in walnut to match the island counter. The custom cabinets were designed by Egger and made in Southern Indiana.

The main dining area occupies the other side of the expansive hybrid room, taking on some of the darker hues noticeable in the neighboring kitchen. Instead of paint, every inch of wall is covered in a dark gray, textured paper. Egger transplanted the dining set from Peter’s previous home because, as Egger says, it’s “the kind of thing they like to have around.” Dark trim ties in with the color scheme, but a salmonhued rug adds just the right pop of brightness.

After dinner, the homeowners often find themselves spending quality time in the “listening room,” or as Peter likes to call it, the “vibey room.” The space, with its cozy spots to entertain or relax, is coated in an olive green color and houses a record player and select bottles from Peter’s bourbon collection. The eclectic, moody decor—mounted ducks, black and white photos of socialites, and Westernthemed wool throws—captures a mix of the couple’s personalities. A faux-fur couch and deep leather barrel chairs mimic the feel of a ski lodge the couple once visited together. While Egger established the basis for the room’s design, friends Whitney Heglie and

Brooke Kopp with WB Designs in Arizona helped source the finishing pieces to bring a little slice of Colorado to the Lachmanns’ Indiana home.

The woodwork in this room and throughout the house is an example of modern sensibilities used to make the split-level architecture feel less divided and dated, Egger says. In some spaces, the details are subtle, like the thin trim that adds dimension to one wall of the listening room. You almost don’t notice it’s laid in a near-interlocking pattern. In other areas, the treatments are more substantial. For instance,

ALL IN THE DETAILS

The largely neutral color scheme is punctuated by patterned pillows and throws, rich woodwork, textured wall and window treatments, photos and artwork, supple leather furniture, and pops of darker hues.

the stone-covered fireplace wall in the main living room was refinished with walnutstained planks. Laid in a diagonal direction, the woodwork directs the eye to the hearth, the focal point of the room. Peter and Emily remodeled the step-down entrance into the living room to center the staircase and achieve a better spatial flow. Built-in cabinets in this area are filled with objects representing the couple’s history, such as family photos, a vintage typewriter, and pieces of pottery.

“So much character, customization, balance, and interest can be achieved in any design style with the addition of millwork and moldings,” Egger says.

Besides the designer’s affinity for this type of craftsmanship, the woodwork fits with the homeowners’ style goals. They like the look of mixed finishes, from natural wood tones to stone and metal. And they don’t discriminate between painted or stained materials. Coincidentally, the woodwork also accentuates the architecture of the ’70s-built house. You can see the original bones, but the new finishes update the look.

Other unique touches help round out the couple’s vision for a mountain retreat–like home, mixing modern and rustic elements. Peter really wanted to go funky with light fixtures that stand out rather than blend in

SETTING THE SCENE

Draped fabric swags, sparkling chandeliers, and lavish floral arrangements complement the natural beauty of the Lachmanns’ property to create a wedding wonderland.

with the background. Egger agrees with this approach and notes that statement lighting is especially crucial in homes with lower ceilings. A row of globe-shaped pendants made of metal and clear glass hang above the kitchen island. Long, slender wall sconces on either side of the fireplace add low, warm illumination. And the entryway fixture showcases Edison bulbs sandwiched between translucent, cymbalshaped coverings.

If you ask Peter, it’s not the modern lighting or revised flow that make the space. It’s the “underrated upgrades” like the all-glass front door that make the most impact. Switching from a solid door allows light to flow into the home, and he and his wife can enjoy an unobstructed view of the land they love so much. It’s where they started their marriage, where they hope to grow their family, and where they plan to call home for many years to come. “I think when you get married at your home, you also have to be buried there,” jokes Emily. Peter adds, “We’re locked in.”

ADVENTURE

An active, fresh-air vacation isn’t just for the athletic among us. The right outdoorsy trips can thrill anyone.

As somewhat of a professional hobo, I spend half my life exploring distant trails, stumbling up mountains, trying desperately not to drown in a kayak, and sleeping in the back of my dusty camper van. I’m a huge believer in the power of nature to transform lives or just to energize a vacation. Unfortunately, too many people write off these types of trips, sighing, “I’m just not the outdoorsy type.” But through all my vagabonding, I’ve seen firsthand that almost anyone can enjoy getting a little dirty outside. Take it from me, a dude who looks like Sasquatch ate Willie Nelson, you don’t need to be in topnotch physical shape to venture out there and get wild. If I can do it, you can do it too. To prove it, I’ve found the absolute best spots within driving distance of Indianapolis suited for all ages, abilities, and skill levels. From camping and hiking to birdwatching, stargazing, fishing, and more, your next adventure is waiting for you.

BY ROB ANNIS

extendedfamily fun

FIRST, A HEADS UP: Hiking in Shenandoah is a bit more rugged than in the Hoosier state. What Indiana considers an expert-level trail may only be a moderate-level path in this park. Also, many of the trails have foot-catching rocks embedded in the dirt or covered in loose gravel. A hiking pole and boots with lots of ankle support will help keep you stable.

Perhaps the most favored hike in the park, Hawksbill Summit rewards hikers with spectacular views of the surrounding mountains. Reaching the summit requires either a 2.1-mile (one way) hike with a gradual 400foot ascension or a shorter 1.5-mile trek with a steeper rise. The Rose River Falls loop may be my favorite in

Shenandoah, offering mile after mile of cascading creeks and waterfalls. You could spend all day on this trail snapping amazing photos. I recommend taking this hike clockwise, doing the more difficult downhill section first. Upon reaching Dark Hollow Falls at the end, take the fire road, which will give you a more gradual return to the parking area.

If you and your family enjoy bicycling, Skyline Drive’s relatively low speed limit and rolling terrain make it an ideal spot for breaking out the two-wheelers.

With 75 scenic pull offs along Shenandoah’s 105-mile Skyline Drive, grandparents, if they like, can enjoy the Blue Ridge scenery without ever setting foot on a trail.

BLUE RIDGE JEWEL

Shenandoah National Park is known for panoramic vistas, a vast array of flora and fauna, and accessible trails.

Bird-watching is a popular activity in the park, with nearly 200 migratory and resident bird species, like redtailed hawks and Carolina chickadees, found throughout the park. The 1.3-mile Limberlost Trail is one of the most popular in the park for bird-watching. Considered fully accessible, it’s mostly flat with a crushed limestone surface suitable for both wheelchairs and strollers.

Kids tend to love the junior ranger program found at nearly every U.S. national park, and Shenandoah is no exception. Children ages 7–12 can learn about plants, native wildlife, and ecology through fun, hands-on activities. Get them excited about the trip by downloading the activity book (nps.gov/shen/learn/ kidsyouth) ahead of time.

Ranger-led programs are another way to engage a kid’s curiosity about nature. Shenandoah offers dozens each week during high season, including short hikes focusing on black bears and geology. Find the current list at nps.gov/shen/planyourvisit/ rangerprograms.htm.

And the adventure doesn’t end at dusk. Stargazing is one of the most popular activities in the park. On clear, moonless nights, you can see the Milky Way with your naked eye. With a telescope, the sky is the limit. Rangers and local astronomy clubs often give presentations in the park, and Shenandoah hosts an annual Night Sky Festival (nps.gov/ shen/planyourvisit/night-skyfestival.htm) every August.

ROB’S GEAR CLOSET

IF YOU’RE NEW TO THE OUTDOOR LIFE, YOU’LL NEED TO EQUIP YOURSELF FOR IT. HERE ARE SOME OF MY PERSONAL MUST-HAVES, WHICH CAN BE FOUND AT REI (8490 CASTLETON CORNER DR., 317-585-1938)

Hiking Poles

Walking sticks not only take some of the strain off your knees, but they also aid your balance when going over obstacles and fording streams. Most beginners find standard aluminum hiking poles to be fine on the trail, but I love my Leki Black Series Carbon Trekking Poles ($200), which are lightweight yet strong.

Camp Chair

After running around in the woods all day, nothing beats relaxing in a comfy camp chair. I like the REI Co-op Flexlite Camp Chair ($70), especially if I’ll be hiking to my camping spot. It weighs less than 2 pounds.

Fire Starter

I typically volunteer to build the fire when camping with friends, but I have a confession: I cheat (kinda) by using UCO Sweetfire Fire Starter Tinder ($4). The sooner I can get a fire roaring, the sooner I can be sitting in a camp chair—look to the left— sipping bourbon.

Hydration Pack

Even if I’m only spending a few hours in the woods, I strap on my Dakine Hot Laps 5 L Bike Hydration Waist Pack ($100). Not only does it hold 2 liters of water comfortably, but it also has room for a Snickers, notebook, and keys. If I’m going to be out all day, I add a Sawyer Mini Water Filter ($25), which lets me drink right out of a stream.

Hiking Shoes

I’ve been a Salomon fanatic for the better part of a decade; their shoes cushion my feet without making me feel like I’m walking on a squishy pillow. Their Speedcross 6 Trail Running Shoes ($140) are great for spontaneous hikes in Fort Harrison State Park.

camping and natural beauty

LUDINGTON STATE Park (visitludington.com) is one of Michigan’s finest parks—and if you’ve ever spent time in the mitten state, you know that’s a high compliment indeed. It attracts visitors from all over the Midwest. Connecting the Lost Lake, Ridge, and Island trails lets hikers experience much of the park’s immense natural beauty, from forest views to the lakeshore, in about six relatively easy miles. The hike is best in autumn, when the maple and oak trees explode into a kaleidoscope of reds,

oranges, and golds, broken up only by the deep blue hues of the bordering lake. If you’re into lighthouses, the 2.5-mile hike to Big Sable Point is worth the extra effort after the trail gives way to sand.

If you’re feeling a little peckish after the five-hour drive north, I suggest grabbing a burger and a Hazy IPA at Jamesport Brewing Co. (jamesportbrewingcompany .com). Then head to one of the nearby campgrounds. The closest is the Lake Michigan Recreation Area campground for $29/night. The

campground at Ludington State Park is a bit more modern, though also a bit farther, and starts at $30/night. You’ll also find cabins to rent.

Don’t leave without visiting the Nordhouse Dunes Wilderness Area. The area reminds me of Sleeping Bear Dunes in northern Michigan and Indiana Dunes before they were overrun by people. The 6-mile loop hike, which will take you from a forest filled with evergreens and oaks to the sandy banks of Lake Michigan and back, is soul restoring.

The South Holston or Watauga River in Tennessee. Guide Shane Griffith (facebook.com/shanegriffithflyfishing) knows exactly where hungry fish lurk. Tell your fish story at The Fly Box, a tackle shop and bar, in Bristol.

PSST … WHERE’S THE BEST FLY FISHING?

biking and city charms

In Madison, you can hike or bike by day, then hit the town. Consider booking a room at the Hotel Indigo (ihg.com/hotel indigo) near the heart of downtown. Rooms in the former paint factory are huge. The common areas are full of cool modern art.

The city is so compact that if you bring or rent a bike or e-bike, you likely won’t need to use your car. Wisconsin is tops for trail connectivity, so it’s wonderfully easy to both navigate and escape Madison by bicycle.

If you’re looking to do a day trip, take the Capital City State Trail to the Velo UnderRound, which connects to five different rail trails just outside neighboring Fitchburg. Consult the map near the signpost for details about what to expect on each of the trails. If you’re up for a longer ride, take the Military Ridge State Trail west and pedal

through an inspiring rural landscape. Mount Horeb, the selfproclaimed troll capital of the world, is 25 miles from Madison and makes a good turnaround point. Wisconsin is known for its homey bars and welcoming breweries; you’ll find both right off this route. The Grumpy Troll Brew Pub (thegrumpytroll .com) offers a good variety of tasty eats (try the Thai Pie). The circa-1884 Riley Tavern (rileytavern.com) serves all-day, stick-to-your-ribs fare and hosts bluegrass jams in the summer. You can have your fill of freshair fun within city limits, too. The University of Wisconsin–Madison Arboretum (arboretum .wisc.edu) is a National Historic Landmark with 1,260 acres of restored forest, prairie, and wetlands. Lock up your bike on the rack at the visitor center

and then explore on foot. The Longenecker Horticultural Gardens house lilacs, flowering crabapples, and dozens more.

Just west of Hotel Indigo, Williamson (aka Willy) Street is a mix of fun dive bars and eateries that serve the state’s greatest culinary contribution after cheese: bratwurst. You can also explore the Dane County Farmers Market (dcfm.org) on the grassy grounds of the state capitol every Saturday, April through November. Locals are all about the farmers market. If navigating crowds is dicey for anyone in your group, consider arriving when it opens at 6:15 a.m. Getting first dibs on the goodies, including a hot cup of locally ground coffee, is worth the early start. Be sure to bring cash and a shopping bag.

Just off the Capital City State Trail, Brittingham Boats (madisonboats.com) rents kayaks and stand-up paddleboards to explore Lake Monona. Monona Terrace, the city’s dazzling convention center (designed by Frank Lloyd Wright), makes a short journey. And yes, fishing off the pier is allowed.

BUILDER OF THE 2023 INDIANAPOLIS MONTHLY DREAM HOME AT HOLLIDAY FARMS

ADVANCING THE ART OF HOME BUILDING™

We specialize in bringing ideas into focus and turning dreams into reality. Each home is individually designed to meet the needs and lifestyle of our client. Our team works diligently to exceed your expectations with quality craftsmanship and innovative detail. Contact us to experience the difference.

Located in Zionsville’s scenic Holliday Farms community, the Dream Home is open to

BIG IS BACK. Conceived as the ultimate vacation house, this year’s West Coast–inspired Indianapolis Monthly Dream Home has no fewer than eight bedrooms and maxes out at 14,000 square feet in Zionsville’s Holliday Farms golf course community.

Built for luxury, this Dream Home great room, a home theater, a wine climbing wall, and more. “When you ent kind of home. There isn’t really anything that isn’t luxury inside, Brad and I joke,” says interior designer Jennifer O’Connor of Dare 2 Design.

Having worked on several other Dream Homes in the recent past, builder Brad Bowman of Homes by Design and O’Connor agree that of a kind. “It’s more modern across the board,” Bowman says. “Also, the

homeowner is very experienced in the local construction industry, so he understands the process more than most [clients] and appreciates the challenges we face. It’s been really helpful to have him on site to be able to answer questions.”

“This project has been a true col laboration across the whole team,” O’Connor says. “The vendors and partners who’ve participated in this ing to work with. The homeowners trusted our vision and gave us a lot of leeway to bring in new ideas. It’s very special when that happens. We com pushed the boundaries, and I think impactful home.”

School Profiles

Learn about about the environments, focus areas, academic programs, and activities at Indy-area schools.

Cathedral High School

Students from 72 zip codes and 11 counties attend Cathedral High School. The students represent 164 grade schools 73% of Cathedral students are Catholic or attended a Catholic grade school. 36% are students of color. Offer nearly 40 AP and Dual-Credit Classes, including AP Capstone. Three levels of classes offered, including College Prep, Academic, and Honors. 45% of students receive tuition assistance. 1,400 agencies impacted by Cathedral students’ service/volunteer work. 100% graduation rate. More than $73 million in reported scholarship offers for the class of 2023.

Year Founded: 1918 | Grades Served: 9–12 | Current Enrollment: 1180 | Student-Faculty Ratio: 12:1 | Grad Rate: 100% |

Uniforms Required: Yes | Tuition: $16,950 | Top Awards/Recognition: Four-time National Blue Ribbon School Award Winner • Chosen for Pilot Lumen Catholic School Accreditation Program • IDOE A-Rated School | Open House Dates: Thursday, October 5 • Mass 5 p.m., Open House 5:30–8 p.m. • Register at gocathedral.com/openhouse | Contact: Anna Taul, Director of Admissions, 317-968-7309, ataul@gocathedral.com, gocathedral.com

Butler MFA in Creative Writing

Our Mission

The Butler MFA Program is committed to providing a supportive and inclusive learning environment that gives each student the tools with which to build a life as a writer and as a citizen of the literary world.

In welcoming writers of diverse backgrounds and experiences, and in emphasizing the value both of intense apprenticeship to the craft of writing and service to the community, we aim to be a program that is reflective of, and responsive to, the larger world of which it is a part.

What is an MFA in Creative Writing?

Butler’s 36-credit hour Master of Fine Arts in Creative Writing enhances creative and professional proficiency in the literary arts. Students hone their craft in fiction, nonfiction, or poetry. In addition to building a foundation through graduate workshops in their home genre, students choose from indepth elective courses, such as screenwriting, young adult fiction, literary editing, publishing, and teaching creative writing.

WHY an MFA in CREATIVE WRITING at BUTLER?

Our writing workshops and enriching lectures are taught by prominent writers and full-time faculty who mentor students through the diversely creative program.

Our curriculum can be structured as full-time or part-time, which allows students to work at their own pace. The MFA typically takes 3 to 5 years to complete.

Students have opportunities to edit content for our literary magazine, have a meal with guests of the Visiting Writers Series, and make themselves at home in the Efroymson Center for Creative Writing.

Many graduates say they never want to leave the program, noting our emphasis on community over competition. Formore information visit butler.edu/artssciences/master-fine-arts/

Metropolitan School District of Lawrence Township

“Our job as a public school corporation is to educate and provide a graduation pathway for every student, regardless of circumstances. Our commitment to students is to provide innovative academic and extracurricular choices in stimulating learning modes with equitable student outcomes from prekindergarten through high school, advancing students towards their post-graduation plans.”

» Welcome to Lawrence Township Schools. Located in the northeast corner of the greater Indianapolis area, Lawrence Township is a residential suburban community governed by two city municipalities, the City of Lawrence and Indianapolis. It is home to Fort Benjamin Harrison State Park, Geist Reservoir, Fall Creek Greenway, and miles of hiking and biking trails.

LT has a history of academic excellence and a national reputation as a leader in K–12 education, boasting comprehensive programming, which includes:

• NAEYC accredited Early Learning Centers

• Six elementary magnet themes

• STEM for All programming in partnership with Project Lead the Way and VEX Robotics

• Nationally recognized one- and two-way dual language programming preK–12

• Comprehensive special education services

• High ability programming

• Robust AP/IB/Dual Credit offerings

• Nationally recognized Career & Technical Education at McKenzie Center for Innovation & Technology

The Lawrence Township community has demonstrated a commitment to traditional public education, evidenced by over 16,000 students who attend our schools daily and 2,400 employees who have made the MSD of Lawrence Township their professional home. We strive to be the District of Destination, where excellence empowers everyone to reach his/her full potential.

6501 Sunnyside Rd., Indianapolis, 317-423-8200, LTschools.org

Current Enrollment: 16,000 | Student-Faculty Ratio: school and course dependent | Grad Rate: 93.5% | Uniforms required? No | Tuition: No | Top Awards/Recognition: NAMM Best Community for Music Education • Internationally recognized Dual Language Program • Top-rated Career & Technical Education | Open House Dates: Lawrence Central: 11/08/23 6 PM

7:30 PM Tours available upon request.

—DR. SHAWN A. SMITH, SUPERINTENDENT OF SCHOOLS

The Oaks Academy

» The Oaks Academy is a Christ-Centered, diverse, classical school educating students in Pre-Kindergarten to 8th Grade. They are committed to providing a transformative education that goes beyond academics, nurturing the whole child and preparing them for a successful future. Their holistic approach focuses on character development, academic excellence, and spiritual growth.

At The Oaks Academy, they understand that education is not just about academics. Their curriculum seamlessly integrates habit development, ensuring that students cultivate essential skills and character traits. From fostering independence and responsibility to nurturing kindness and empathy, they provide a well-rounded education that goes beyond the traditional classroom setting. Their program is designed to spark curiosity and ignite a lifelong love of learning. Through a variety of engaging activities, such as monthly field trips and hands-on experiences.

In the classroom, Oaks Academy faculty strive to create a second home for your child — a safe, comfortable, and nurturing space where they are known and loved. With small class sizes and dedicated teachers, they provide personalized attention and foster meaningful relationships. They recognize and appreciate your role as your child’s first teacher and seek to partner with you to ensure that your child receives personalized attention and support. For more information visittheoaksacademy.org.

The International School of Indiana

OPEN HOUSE DATES Lower School 9/14, 10/12, 11/9; Upper School 10/3, 11/7

» This International Baccalaureate World School takes a different approach to education. With immersion and dual language programs in French, Mandarin, Spanish, and English, and enhanced cultural experiences, our students are ready for whatever the world has to offer. Our diverse learning community features smaller classes, personalized attention, differentiated instruction, and ample extracurricular activities and leadership opportunities. High school students participate in a comprehensive four-year college counseling program, leading to a 100% college acceptance rate. Whether planning to study in the United States or abroad, from here, students are prepared to go anywhere. 4330 N. Michigan Rd., Indianapolis, 317-923-1951, isind.org

Year Founded: 1994 | Current Enrollment: 500 | Student-Faculty Ratio: 6:1 | Grad Rate: 100% | Uniforms required? Yes, 3-year-old through grade 8 | Tuition: $21,193–$23,625, financial aid available, 2023-2024 Participating Choice School for grades 8–12 | Top Awards/Recognition: 100% college acceptance rate • 100% of seniors awarded merit scholarships • $261,427 average merit scholarships earned

Marian University Preparatory School

» Marian University Preparatory School puts students, parents in control of their education

Marian University Preparatory School—also known as MU Prep—is an online, private school that provides students in grades K-10 a highquality education with coursework in a faithbased environment. MU Prep’s classes are led by engaging teachers, and students can attend school at home, on the go, or wherever there’s an internet connection. To provide a more enriching experience, students in grades 6-10 can participate in in-person activities.

Most Hoosier families qualify for significant financial aid through the Indiana Choice Scholarship Program. Visit AttendMUPrep.com to learn more and enroll today.

Park Tudor School

UPPER SCHOOL OPEN HOUSE (GRADES 9-12): Sunday, October 29, 2:00-4:00 p.m.

» At Park Tudor, we pride ourselves on upholding a tradition of academic excellence that began in 1902.

Park Tudor is an independent school for children age 3 through grade 12. We provide an individualized learning environment where children are encouraged to explore opportunities, exceed expectations and expand possibilities. Small class sizes, a safe and caring atmosphere, and numerous extracurricular activities ensure that each child at Park Tudor receives a unique educational experience catered to his or her individual needs. Our exceptional educators help our students discover their passions in and out of the classroom to help prepare them for college and beyond. Learn more about tours and other opportunities to visit campus at parktudor. org/admissions. Phone: 317-415-2777; email info@parktudor.org.

Year Founded: 1902 (Tudor Hall); 1914 (Park School); 1970: Park Tudor | Grades Served: Pre-K – Grade 12 | Current Enrollment: 995 | Student-Faculty Ratio: 9-to-1 | Graduation Rate: 100% | Uniforms Required? Yes, grades 1-5; dress code grades 6-12 | Tuition: $21,200 - $26,050 (financial aid available) | Top Awards/Recognitions: Students matriculate to top universities nationally and internationally; National Merit Scholarship Finalists and Commended Students; Presidential Scholars; More than $12 million in college merit scholarships; Ranked Best Private K-12 School in Indiana by Niche.com; Cum Laude Society member; VEX World Champion Robotics Team; Multiple State Athletics Championships.

Photo by TONY VALAINIS

Empanadas from Mr. Patakon, p. 103

DOWNTOWN

INCLUDES Fletcher Place, Fountain Square, Mass Ave, Mile Square

Aroma

INDIAN Familiar tandoori and tikka masala staples mingle with heartier, more elevated offerings at this elegant pan-Indian spot. Lunchtime lamb and chicken rolls in crispy flatbread wrappers stand out, as do hearty chaat dishes dressed up with yellow peas, yogurt, and chutneys. An impressive lamb shank is the highlight of the chef’s specialties and easily feeds two. A full bar and an artful array of desserts help round out a special occasion meal. 501 Virginia Ave., 317-602-7117, aromaindy.com V $$

Ash & Elm Cider Co.

on seasonal comfort food. Start with the bread baked next door at Amelia’s—it’s especially delicious slathered with anchovy butter—and build your meal from the ever-changing menu of small and large dishes. Fried morels may show up on a spring picnic plate, while winter nights call for a comforting butcher shop Bolognese. 653 Virginia Ave., 317-686-1580, bluebeardindy.com V $$

Bodhi: Craft Bar + Thai Bistro

THAI This Mass Ave restaurant serves a small, focused menu of Thai dishes like massaman curry with braised beef and Bodhi’s own version of non-Americanized pad thai. Cocktails get a lot of attention on a drinks list designed by Ball & Biscuit’s Heather Storms. 922 Massachusetts Ave., 317-941-6595, bodhi-indy.com V $$

Bru Burger Bar

flavored with aged balsamic—and some of them dry-aged). The servers are exquisite, of course. 40 W. Washington St., 317-423-8790, thecapital grille.com V $$$$

The Eagle

SOUTHERN-INSPIRED Just try to resist the country-fried charms of this place on Mass Ave. The drinks are as potent as they are fun, but The Eagle had us at whole-bird fried chicken—which you may drizzle with spicy honey and pair with mashed potatoes drenched in white gravy, if you like. (And yes, you do want the whole bird.) We’re smitten with the friendly staff, the wildly embellished bloody marys, and the mini cast-iron skillets. 310 Massachusetts Ave., 317-929-1799, eaglerestaurant.com $$

Easy Rider Diner

UPDATED

CIDERY Ash & Elm’s array of complex and quaffable ciders gets broader all the time, with funky cocktails demonstrating a flavor profile well beyond sweet apples at the vibrant tasting room in the former Ford Assembly Plant on Washington Street. The food pairs beautifully with the drinks, from the now legendary elote fritters made with Indiana corn and cilantro crema, to the generous charcuterie board, to the crispy fried Brussels sprouts made with, of course, a cider vinaigrette. A thick-cut Cuban sandwich and an Italian hoagie with all the meats are great choices among sandwiches, though the pimento cheeseburger with pickled green tomato is hard to beat. But more uptown offerings, such as ricotta gnocchi with seasonal garnishes or a lunchtime bulgogi noodle bowl, showcase how cider brings out the flavors in world cuisines as deliciously as fine wines. Save room for cider doughnut holes lavished with caramel sauce. 1301 E. Washington St., 317-600-3164, ashandelm cider.com V $$

Bluebeard

CONTEMPORARY Bluebeard opened in 2012, and crowds still roll in for chef Abbi Merriss’ take

BURGERS The generous patties here combine sirloin, chuck, and brisket and are paired with cocktails and craft beers. Highlights include the signature Bru Burger with bacon, Taleggio, sweet tomato jam, and porter-braised onions. 410 Massachusetts Ave., 317-635-4278, bruburgerbar.com V $$

Cafe Patachou

CAFE The original Meridian-Kessler “student union for adults” continues to draw in the morning crowds and has inspired citywide offshoots, such as this sleek downtown location, a huge hit with the business and weekend hordes alike. The cinnamon toast remains as thick as a brick; the produce is still locally sourced; the massive omelets continue to have cheeky names; and the broken-yolk sandwiches are a perennial lunch favorite. 225 W. Washington St., 317-632-0765, cafepatachou.com V $$

The Capital Grille

CLASSIC A theme of decadence permeates this steakhouse adjoining the equally posh Conrad hotel, from the gilt-framed pastoral paintings that hang on its dark-paneled walls to the selection of elaborate steaks (one of them drenched in a Courvoisier cream sauce, another

DINER Chef Ricky Martinez oversees this colorful Fountain Square diner that connects to the Hi-Fi music venue. The daylight menu applies Latin flourish to breakfast and brunch dishes, including a chorizo omelet with roasted tomato salsa, queso, and lime crema; shrimp and grits; and a waffle flight. For dinner, Martinez spotlights fried chicken and steak sandwiches, along with an appropriately indulgent late-night lineup of garbage can nachos and Cubanos available from 10 p.m. until the entertainment next door calls it a night. 1043 Virginia Ave., 463-224-0430, easyriderindy.com V $$

Fat Dan’s Deli

MEAT AND POTATOES Brisket cooked for 14 hours is a mainstay of the made-from-scratch menu, as is the house corned beef. Get an order of tender smoked wings and some tots for the table, served sans frills on a spread of craft paper. Whatever you do, don’t miss the plump Vienna dogs that will transport you straight to Wrigleyville. 410 E. Michigan St., 317-600-3008, fatdans-deli.com $

The Fountain Room

UPSCALE Restaurateur Blake Fogelsong filled this two-story showstopper with tufted leather chairs, glamorous clamshell booths, marble bar tops, and cascading chandeliers

SYMBOLS

Brunch

Outdoor seating

Reservations

V Vegetarian friendly

$$$$ $30 and up

$$$ $20–$30

$$ $10–$20

$ Under $10

NEW

ADDED

UPDATED

Very Good Good

Recently opened establishment.

Open for more than five months but making its first appearance in the guide.

Recently revisited and reevaluated.

Restaurants included in this guide are selected at the discretion of the Indianapolis Monthly editorial staff based on food quality, innovation, atmosphere, service, value, and consistency. IM does not accept advertising or other compensation in exchange for dining coverage. Price symbols indicate the average cost of a meal per person (without tax, tip, or alcohol). Due to limited space, this list does not cover every evaluated restaurant. For a more comprehensive guide to Indianapolis dining, visit IndianapolisMonthly.com/Dining. Feedback? Please email TheDish@IndianapolisMonthly.com.

as a tribute to the Art Deco splendor of the restored Bottleworks Hotel next door. Meanwhile, the big-shouldered menu covers everything from fine-tuned steaks and seafood to wildcard winners like a 20-ounce Circle City Cut slab of prime rib, a noble old-school relish tray, utterly decadent French onion soup, and the best Coca-Cola barbecue ribs in town. 830 Massachusetts Ave., 463-2383800, thefountainroom.com $$$

Gallery Pastry Bar

CONTEMPORARY The second location for the popular Broad Ripple bakery and brunch spot specializes in Europeaninspired pastries, brunch, dinner, and cocktails. 110 S. Pennsylvania St., 317-8205526, bar.gallerypastry.com $$

Harry & Izzy’s

STEAKHOUSE Craig Huse’s casual alternative to big brother St. Elmo holds its own as a dapper hangout worthy of destination-steakhouse status itself. The marbled bone-in ribeye sizzles in its juices, a smart pick among the high-quality (and high-priced) Midwest-sourced prime cuts. The menu expands to thin crust pizzas, sandwiches, salads, and seafood selections like pan-seared scallops. 153 S. Illinois St., 317-635-9594, harryandizzys.com $$$

Hovito Ultra Lounge

NEW AMERICAN Crowd-pleasing fare is served to a clubby beat at this handsome Wholesale District restaurant. Buffalo chicken rolls, empanadas stuffed with velvety shredded Cuban beef, teriyaki-glazed salmon, and

three-bite lamb chops arrive on artistically plated dishes, and standard cocktails— spicy margarita, espresso martini—come together behind a stunner of a bar. 234 S. Meridian St., 317-969-6909 $$

Iozzo’s Garden of Italy

ITALIAN Expand your pasta knowledge with the textbook bucatini all’Amatriciana with a rich and hearty pomodoro sauce or an order of light but decadently dressed gnocchi with gorgonzola cream sauce and sliced beef filet. Save room for creamy tiramisu cheesecake and a refreshing lemon olive oil cake topped with sweet and tangy Meyer lemon confiture and toasted meringue. 946 S. Meridian St., 317-9741100, iozzos.com $$$

King Dough

PIZZA Chewy and with just the right flop in the middle, the pizzas here are bona fide craft, from the dough to the quality toppings. A standout is the Stinky Pete with wild mushrooms, gorgonzola, and plenty of garlic and herbs. Burgers, including one made from chorizo and topped with manchego cheese, play surprisingly close second fiddles to the pies. Cocktails concocted from boutique liqueurs and aromatics are reason enough to drop in, and they make for perfect sippers while you wait for your pie on the patio. 452 N. Highland Ave., 317-602-7960, kingdoughpizzas.com V $$

Leviathan Bakehouse

BAKERY Pastry chef Pete Schmutte’s patisserie and lunch cafe near Chatham Arch is a welcome addition to the downtown bakery

scene. Schmutte draws on his talented staff ’s specialties to produce earthy artisan breads, ultra-flaky French-style laminated pastries, and elegant financiers. If you oversleep the day’s breakfast sandwich with creamy, soft eggs, grab a chimichurri roast beef sandwich with apple-fennel chutney and brie on porridge bread. 1101 N. College Ave., 317493-1879, leviathanbakehouse.com V $$

Livery

LATIN This place feels like a hidden urban treasure, especially when the mezcal cocktails are flowing and the partially open kitchen is sending out plate after plate of contemporary Latin-inspired fare. Favorites have included a salad tucked inside a folded manchego crisp, meltingly tender steak fanned over a block of polenta, and a silky tres leches cake to die for. Snag a spot on the upperlevel deck for a real treat. 720 N. College Ave., 317-383-0330, livery-restaurant.com $$

Love Handle

SANDWICHES Daily lunch and brunch features such as schnitzel and waffles and a pulled chicken Hot Brown are the main draw at Chris and Ally Benedyk’s cheeky sandwich shop. The chalkboard menu also offers side options in the form of braised greens and potato salad with roasted tomatoes. 877 Massachusetts Ave., 317-384-1102 $$

Maialina Italian Kitchen + Bar

ITALIAN Straw-wrapped chianti bottles, wooden cross-back chairs, and family photos give a throwback trattoria feel to this addition

to the city’s Italian scene. Meatballs, from a family recipe, are always a good choice with a solid house marinara. Pastas range from a straightforward toss of rigatoni with sausage and broccoli rabe to a rich, three-meat Bolognese lavished atop plump gnocchi. 1103 Prospect St., 317-982-7676, maialinaindy.com $$$

Milktooth

BRUNCH This diner-style cafe has a playfully gritty vibe. The early morning counter service featuring pastries and coffee gives way to a full-service brunch menu with daytime craft cocktails. 534 Virginia Ave., 317-986-5131, milktoothindy.com V $$

Modita

ASIAN-INSPIRED The lavish restaurant in Bottleworks District’s showpiece slot gets extra style points for its gorgeous industrial-sleek decor that is equal parts silk wallpaper and factory-grade doors. Sip a Singha or a citrusy Tokyo Exchange Rate under the glow of dangling pendants and soak up the thoughtfully preserved vintage vibe. 850 Massachusetts Ave., 317-316-0470, modita.com $$$

Mori Sushi

JAPANESE At this cheery ramen and sushi spot, opened in early 2020 in part of the former Milano Inn, highlights include the Spider-Man Roll, which features crunchy soft-shell crab tempura with avocado, spicy mayo, and eel sauce, as well as especially fresh yellowtail and white tuna sashimi. Tonkotsu pork belly ramen is a rich and flavorful go-to, but yakisoba and udon in beef, chicken, and

seafood versions are good bets, as well. 231 S. College Ave., 317-964-0139, morisushi-japanese restaurant.business.site $$

Nada

MEXICAN FUSION During the day, the big draw at this bustling spot is a two-taco lunchbox, showcasing soft flour tortillas stuffed with nontraditional fillings such as fried avocado or mu shu pork alongside excellent fish and pollo versions that would hold up at any mom-andpop taqueria. But the place gets even livelier at night, when the gorgeous dining room (check out those curtained clamshell booths) fills with patrons sipping fruity cocktails and sharing plates of Mexican poutine and Korean fried chicken. 11 W. Maryland St., 317-638-6232, eatdrinknada.com $$

Nesso

ITALIAN Highly stylized seafood and meats paired with small pasta courses and shared a la carte sides add up to a sumptuous dining experience inside the Alexander hotel. Pass around a plate of prosciutto-wrapped prunes or crab arancini, but keep the tortelloni and sea bass all to yourself. 339 S. Delaware St., 317-643-7400, nesso-italia.com $$$

Pier 48 Fish House & Oyster Bar

SEAFOOD In a sleek, well-placed fish house across from Gainbridge Fieldhouse, diners pregame on fresh seafood delivered from the restaurant’s own South Bristol, Maine, fishery. The selections range from a fried chicken sandwich to market-priced lobster prepared baked, steamed, or chargrilled. But the Lobstah

Roll, dressed with either butter or mayonnaise, is the star of the show. 130 S. Pennsylvania St., 317-560-4848, pier48fresh.com $$$

The Rathskeller

GERMAN Head to Indy’s oldest restaurant (established in 1894) for a hearty dinner of slow-roasted sauerbraten or rouladen with spaetzle noodles, potato salad, and giant steins of German beer. Or drop into the Kellerbar for a brat or a frikadelle, a German-style burger. When it’s warm, join the crowds for a deep selection of suds under a leafy oak in the biergarten. 401 E. Michigan St., 317-636-0396, rathskeller.com $$

Rolli

SUSHI Creative, colorful rolls such as Ponzu Paradise (salmon, spicy fruit-forward mayo, and beets) or Mango Tango (tempura-fried shrimp, Thai chili sauce, avocado, and pickled mango) make this recent addition to The Garage food hall a fun destination for sushi lovers and those still a bit squeamish about raw fish. Traditionalists can opt for “simple” rolls with just seafood or veggies and rice wrapped in nori, and build-your-own options let customers’ imaginations run wild, with a solid selection of vegetarian options, including surprisingly tasty yuzu shiitakes. Much of the fun is watching the sushi batch machine shoot out a perfect square of rice that is rolled and cut in the blink of an eye then served in a sturdy, stylish box. For a hearty alternative to rolls, try one of four Umami Bommi options, tofu pockets with tasty toppings and sauces, the best of them finished with a torch. A

nice selection of canned teas, kombuchas, sakes, and beer complete the experience. 906 Carrollton Ave., 317-210-3559, rollisushi.co $$

Ruth’s Chris Steak House

STEAKHOUSE While nightly specials at this stately steakhouse include innovative seafood and poultry options, supper club classics abound, from the succulent, fatmarbled ribeye to a delicate petite filet, all served on sizzling-hot plates. 45 S. Illinois St., 317-633-1313, ruthschris.com $$$$

Shapiro’s Delicatessen

DELI Slide your tray along and take your pick of kosher comfort foods at this downtown institution. Hot pastrami and corned beef sandwiches on rye have drawn long lines for more than a century. The Reuben contends for the city’s best, and heartier fare such as potato pancakes, stuffed cabbage, and matzo ball soup are perennially satisfying standbys. If you don’t load up on a massive wedge of pie, you haven’t really had the proper Shapiro’s experience. 808 S. Meridian St., 317-631-4041, shapiros.com $$

Spoke & Steele

UPDATED CONTEMPORARY Barrel-aged cocktails and martinis are still signatures of the bar at this modern, airy lobby restaurant in Le Méridien hotel, which replaced the Canterbury in late 2014. Yet classic French influences now color the dinner menu, with a throwback crudité plate, light and crispy chicken croquettes, and openfaced ham and salami tartines anchoring the “petit plates” menu. Mains include a bistrostyle steak frites with red wine garlic butter, delicate chicken Provençal with saffron pasta, and the cheeky half-pound La Royale burger with your choice of cheese and tangy house aioli. Those with hearty appetites should opt for the generous and rich braised short ribs with mashed potatoes or crispy fries subbed for the pilaf. A straightforward but very solid swordfish bathed in citrus beurre blanc is an equally satisfying option that leaves room for a key lime cakelette or Le Scoop of gelato or sorbet of the day. 123 S. Illinois St., 317-737-1616, spokeandsteele.com V $$

St. Elmo Steak House

STEAKHOUSE Since 1902, this stately house of red meat has served as the unofficial ambassador of downtown Indianapolis—the walls carry decades’ worth of celebrity photos, the burnished bar hearkens to an earlier era, and the servers remain starched and bow-tied. The drill remains the same, as well: a generous martini, a shrimp cocktail with that notoriously hot sauce, the bean soup or tomato juice, the wedge, and one of the legendary steaks. 127 S. Illinois St., 317-635-0636, stelmos.com $$$$

Taxman CityWay

GASTROPUB Soaring ceilings, rustic candelabra lighting, brick walls, and a 3,000-squarefoot beer garden patio make this one of Indy’s most welcoming drinking spots. The gastropub menu includes some of the city’s best frites, served with more than half a dozen sauces or loaded with bacon, beer cheese, and scallions. Liège waffles are topped with hearty add-ons like fried chicken and rosemary-scented maple syrup

or cheesy shrimp and grits. 310 S. Delaware St., 317-734-3107, taxmanbrewing.com V $$

Tinker Street

NEW AMERICAN Reservations are a must, so snag whatever date you can get and hope for a warm night and a seat on the twinkling patio. Then settle in for small plates such as surprisingly light and flavorful chickpea ravioli with vegan ricotta and a host of colorful garnishes. Or try one of the vegan soups or a seasonal salad, such as a refreshing mix of greens with asparagus, pickled rhubarb, and tangy blue cheese. 402 E. 16th St., 317-9255000, tinkerstreetrestaurant.com

V $$$

Tony’s Steaks and Seafood

STEAKHOUSE Elegantly presented oysters, mussels, and calamari tossed with pepperoncini and cherry tomatoes top a list of mostly seafood appetizers, but don’t miss what has to be one of the city’s biggest crab cakes, mounded on a swath of tangy mustard aioli. A special seasoning blend of paprika, sea salt, and pepper means New York strips and bone-in prime ribeyes have an especially flavorful char. 110 W. Washington St., 317638-8669, tonysofindianapolis.com $$$

Upland Brewing

GASTROPUB Bloomington’s Upland Brewery brings its casualdining experience to Indy’s near south side, with an openconcept dining room and a popular dog-friendly patio. The Upland repertoire gets proper representation in the wall of taps behind the bar. You can casually sip a flight of sours and snack on smoked chicken wings or get busy with dishes plucked from the chef’s rotating seasonal menu. 1201 Prospect St., 317-672-3671, uplandbeer.com V $$

World Famous Hotboys

CHICKEN Fountain Square’s landmark Peppy Grill has a new life as this hot chicken shack, a California import. The chicken sandwiches, made with halal meat cooked in peanut oil, follow the Nashville Hot credo—coated in a spicy crunch, dressed up with slaw, pickles, and a piquant ranch-based sauce, and tucked inside an appropriately squishy bun. 1004 Virginia Ave., worldfamoushotboys.com $$

EAST

INCLUDES Beech Grove, Irvington, Windsor Park

10th Street Diner

VEGAN Surprisingly familiar and hearty plantbased takes on diner classics occupy the entire menu at this rehab of a former pawn shop,a comfy backdrop for enjoying such tastyfakeouts as a gooey seitan Reuben, a“chicken” pot pie, and chili that rivals your favorite con carne version. 3301 E. 10th St., 463-221-1255 V $$

Beholder

CONTEMPORARY You never know what to expect from restaurateur Jonathan Brooks’ Windsor Park kitchen, aside from one of the most innovative and well-executed meals in town.

WE NAIL THE CONCEPT

Woodstock is custom design and fine homebuilding, up close and personal. At every point in the our building process, you work directly with our owners, Bob Slawson and Nick Winings. Bob designs and creates the plans. Nick brings them to life. With premium lots in Hamilton County’s most sought-after neighborhoods and several quick move-in opportunities underway, we’ll create a home worthy of your dream lifestyle. It all starts with a conversation.

To learn more about Woodstock and see examples of our lifestyle home design, visit WoodstockCustomHomes.com or swing by and take a personal tour of either of our fully-decorated model homes in Carmel’s Grassy Banch at Bridgewater or Westfield’s Reserve on South neighborhoods.

15436 Spring Winds Drive & 17129 Sanders Farm Circle are open every Saturday & Sunday 12-4.

The menu is difficult to track, mainly because Brooks builds his dishes around seasonal ingredients that are fresh and of-the-moment. Impeccable servers will guide you through the evening’s offerings, which start small at the top of the menu (fresh oysters, perhaps, or pork rinds with kimchi and chicken liver mousse) and bulk up toward the bottom (think wild boar Bolognese or a massive pork Wellington for two). Finish with the most exotic flavor of house-made ice cream. 1844 E. 10th St., 317-419-3471, beholderindy.com V $$$$

Kan-Kan Cinema

UPSCALE CASUAL Dinner and a movie has never quite been as local or as luxe as it is at this cinematic and culinary collaboration in Windsor Park. First-run indie and classic films play on the screen in the cinema, with snacks and expert cocktails from the bar nodding to movie culture, as with the Hollywood Boulevard(ier) or the 35MM with dry gin, orgeat, and lime. 1258 Windsor St., 317-800-7099, kankanindy.com V $$$

Landlocked Baking Company

CAFE What began life as a production bakery along Irvington’s tucked-away Audubon Road has expanded into a full-service daytime spot serving sandwiches and plated entrees. The menu keeps things brief, with a special focus on fresh-baked carbs. 120 S. Audubon Rd., 317-207-2127, landlockedbakingco.com V $$

Mayfair Taproom

FAMILY PUB Housed in a 120-year-old structure with a colorful past, this eastside hang has the timeless feel of a well-loved neighborhood pub.

Walk-ins can relax over pints of beer at the bar, right next to a family-friendly dining room with window seat booths and local art on the walls. The menu is brief and sandwich-heavy, with equal love given to the thick and cheesy house burger and daily vegan breakouts like the spicy seitan sloppy Joe and the massive bean burger. 2032 E. 10th St., 317-419-2393 V $$

The Med

MEDITERRANEAN This Mediterranean spot opened by the owners of neighboring Lincoln Square Pancake House in spring 2022 offers a solid menu of familiar Greek and Italian dishes. Updates include a renovated patio, bar, and dining room lit with chandeliers. Classic meze, such as buttery triangles of spanakopita, garlicky hummus, and a tangy feta dip with a kick, are some of the standouts, along with hearty salads and special house-blend lamb and beef gyros. Platters include baked lemon chicken, pork chops, and walleye, a nod to local lake fish, as well as Italian American pastas, such as homemade lasagna, spinachricotta ravioli with pesto, and pasta alla pandeli with Italian sausage and caramelized onions. A full assortment of desserts includes baklava, eclairs, tiramisu, and kataifi. 5614 E. Washington St., 317-550-2512, themedindy.com

V $$

Natural State Provisions

CASUAL Customers order at the counter and find a table inside this former microbrewery reinvented as an endearingly kitschy eatdrinkery. The food is rooted in homestyle Arkansas cooking from co-owner Adam

Sweet’s native state, heavy on the deep frying and sweet tea brining. Order a Sling Blade cocktail, get a side of collard greens with your fried bologna sandwich, and don’t miss the daily soft serve ice cream flavor. 414 Dorman St., 317-492-9887, naturalstateprovisions.com $$

Open Kitchen

NEW AMERICAN Breakfast specialties such as light-as-air French toast, biscuits and gravy, and eggs Benedict lavished with crab and avocado are stars on the menu at the new location of Dexter and Toni Smith’s cheery eatery in the former Jailbird location near the University of Indianapolis. But lunch and dinner are equally respectable, especially a generous shrimp po’ boy or a crispy chicken sandwich with peppered bacon, onion rings, and barbecue sauce with your choice of spice level. More substantial entrees include a grilled pork chop with apple chutney or salmon with wild rice and sauteed broccoli, with elevated touches owing to Dexter Smith’s Chef’s Academy pedigree. After operating mainly as a carryout spot on North Sherman and later in Little Flower, this location comes with a full bar, which means cocktails—such as the creamy, floral Respect Your Elders with bourbon, elderflower, and lemon—are a must. 4022 Shelby St., 317- 974-9032, opennkitchen.org $$

Smash’d Burger Bar

NEW BURGERS Located in the same Irvington storefront that once housed Lazy Days Coffee House and Boujie Biscuit, this streamlined counter concept takes the

FOLLOW US

smooshed burger trend to its flattest extreme. Wafer-thin patties with the crispiest edges are layered onto specialty burgers like the Sleepy Hollow (with roasted garlic aioli, bacon, crispy onions, and Swiss cheese) and the fried egg–topped Humpty Dumpty. Draft beer, salads, and fries of the sweet potato and waffle variety round out the meal. For dessert, it’s pineapplevanilla Dole Whip swirl. 10 Johnson Ave., 317419-2894, smashdburgerbar.com V $

Steer-In

DINER Wear your stretchiest pants here. Steer-In’s classic Guy Fieri–approved shortorder fare includes breaded tenderloins, beef and noodle dinners, and beer-battered fish sandwiches. The Twin Steer burger is a Big Mac knockoff that pairs deliciously with a side of battered and fried onion rings. Rib-sticking breakfast platters are served all day. Wash it down with a legit vanilla Coke and take home a towering slice of coconut cream pie for later. 5130 E. 10th St., 317-356-0996, steerin.net $

NORTH SUBURBAN

INCLUDES Carmel, Fishers, Noblesville, Westfield, Zionsville

9th Street Bistro

BISTRO In a snug cafe off Noblesville’s town square, owners Samir Mohammad and Rachel

Firestone Mohammad create meals worth lingering over, from a lamb shank slow-smoked to buttery tenderness and served on top of fresh pappardelle to a house-made burrata that makes several appearances on the menu. The rotating Fried Thing of the Day (from tofu to artichoke hearts) should not be missed. 56 S. 9th St., Noblesville, 317-774-5065, 9thstbistro.com $$$

101 Beer Kitchen

CASUAL The energy is high and the flavors are forward at this Ohio import. In a dining room that combines the best parts of a craft brewery with an unfussy family haunt, crowd-pleasing dishes like loaded tater tots, andouille sausage–spiked shrimp and grits, and brown-buttered pierogies have lots of moving parts, complex but more fun than fancy. The Yard at Fishers District, 317-537-2041, 101beerkitchen.com $$

1933 Lounge

STEAK AND COCKTAILS This clubby cocktail lounge offers a younger, sexier take on its fine dining parent, St. Elmo Steak House. The twist here is that the black-vested servers deliver the oysters Rockefeller and 45-day dry-aged ribeyes to diners tucked into noir-lit corners where no one can see their faces melt into a brief uglycry at that first bite of incendiary shrimp cocktail. The Yard at Fishers District, 317758-1933, 1933lounge.com/fishers $$$

Anthony’s Chophouse

STEAKHOUSE The interior of this swanky heavy hitter along Carmel’s Main Street has the polished gleam of a new Vegas hotel,

with an upper-level lounge containing the salvaged mahogany bar from The Glass Chimney, anothere fine-dining legend. The food has equal flourish. Lobster bisque with a hunk of tempura-fried meat begins a meal that might include a cowgirl ribeye, a flight of filets, or a domestic wagyu burger. Black-suited servers and well-composed cocktails keep the high-dollar meal running smoothly. 201 W. Main St., Carmel, 317-7400900, anthonyschophouse.com $$$$

Auberge

FRENCH Brick Street Inn’s classic French bistro installed talented chef Toby Moreno (The Loft at Traders Point Creamery, Plow & Anchor) in early 2022 and immediately sent him to Paris, where he trained in the kitchens of famed chef Alain Ducasse. Moreno has added that continental know-how to the vintage dishes he makes fresh with as much local produce, meats, and cheeses as he can. That translates to an impressive plate of buttery escargot topped with croutons, seasonal salads, and a deeply flavorful French onion soup with a rich broth. Seafood shines among the entrees, especially crispy-skinned roasted cod, though diver scallops with asparagus puree, showered with herbs and toasted almonds, also impress. 175 S. Main St., Zionsville, 317733-8755, auberge-restaurant.com $$$

Ben’s BBQ Shack

BARBECUE Ben Hoffman gained a following for his old-school barbecue technique (smoking with hickory and cherry wood with no assist from electricity or gas) when he parked

his trailer-mounted smoker outside Grand Junction Brewing a few days a week. When a 300-square-foot shack on Westfield’s main drag became available, he snatched it up and turned it into a prep kitchen and walk-up window. Standard sides like baked beans and cole slaw are available, but as you would expect, the meat’s the star of the show. There is no way to go wrong, whether you order the juicy, flavorful brisket or shredded pork by the pound or a smoked pork belly sandwich with jalapeños and onions. The only mistake you might make is waiting too long to place an order. Your best bet is to order on the website in advance. 124 E. Main St., Westfield, bensbbqshack.com $$

Chao Vietnamese Street Food

VIETNAMESE Sourcing the beef and pork for its noodle bowls, tacos, and pho from Fischer Farms, this strip mall eatery delivers fresh, flavorful dishes. Shrimp spring rolls come with a rich and complex dipping sauce, and a bracing green papaya salad is refreshing. Pork belly tacos are highlights among the lighter choices. A full list of coffees and bubble teas make this a great place to bring the family for an intro to one of the world’s great cuisines. 7854 E. 96th St., Fishers, 317-622-8820, chaovietstreetfood.com $$

Cheeky Bastards

ENGLISH Co-owners Michael Rypel and chef Robert Carmack fell in love with British culture and cuisine during travels abroad. Their Geist restaurant is a true tribute to the food, serving not only a classic full English breakfast and sausage rolls made with imported meat, but also a very convincing fish and chips featuring crispy planks and hand-cut potatoes. 11210 Fall Creek Rd., 317288-9739, cheekybastardsrestaurant.com $$

Edicta39

LATIN FUSION This modest addition to Pendleton’s main drag combines small-town sweetness with a menu of Spanish-inflected dishes. Arepas (crispy stuffed corn cakes) dominate at breakfast, containing fillings that range from pulled chicken to avocado and black beans. Later in the day, cheesetopped tostones and ceviche join a variety of creamy risottos and elaborate burgers. Paella takes a bit longer to cook but is worth the wait and portioned to serve the entire table. 104 W. State St., Pendleton, 765-602-2110 $$

Field Brewing

BREWPUB This Westfield addition to the local craft brewery scene would be dazzling enough for its mod fixtures and bocce ball court that spans the family-friendly outdoor space. But the menu is as daring as it is easy to pair with the house brews. The kitchen skillfully prepares standout dishes such as tender lamb ribs with chimichurri and deeply caramelized Brussels sprouts with hunks of bacon that are some of the best in town. 303 E. Main St., Westfield, 317-8049780, fieldbrewing.com V $$$

Grindstone Public House

COMFORT You can appreciate the original tall shop windows and pressed tin ceilings of this restored historic building as you chomp into a fully loaded burger. Or go for one of the more elaborate selections (such as a prime-rib Manhattan or chicken and waffles) on Grindstone’s Midwest-casual

menu. A full bar stocked with all the brown bottles gives the place cred as a neighborhood watering hole. 101 N. 10th St., Noblesville, 317-774-5740, grindstonepublichouse.com $$$

The HC Tavern + Kitchen

CONTEMPORARY The term “tavern” hardly captures this swank addition to the Huse Culinary Group/St. Elmo family. A hit among starters is the lobster “Cargot” with lumps of lobster meat in garlic butter and melted havarti. Chops include the supper club darling steak Diane with mushroom cream sauce and horseradish mashed potatoes, though equally regal is the wagyu meatloaf enriched with pork and veal, sauced with a truffle mushroom demi-glace. The Yard at Fishers District, 317-530-4242, atthehc.com $$$

Juniper on Main

SOUTHERN Chef Christine Daniel adds flavor every step of the way at this laidback salute to Southern coastal cooking. That means the shrimp and grits contain heirloom hominy; the grilled salmon is plated with chili-lime butter, coconut rice, citrus black beans, and plantains; and nearly everything arrives with a heaping side of okra. Even the sweet 1907 house that wraps Juniper on Main in a porch and pergola evokes the homey charm of its culinary inspiration and the owner’s former home of Savannah, Georgia. 110 E. Main St., Carmel, 317-591-9254, juniperonmain.com $$

The Mash House

DISTILLERY The distillers behind KennedyKing’s West Fork Whiskey opened this second, destination–tasting experience and spirits education center in the summer of 2022. Start with a textbook old fashioned featuring house-blended bitters, and pair that with a plate of crunchy corn “puppies” with whipped maple butter. 10 E. 191st St., Westfield, 317-763-5400, westforkwhiskey.com $$

Moontown Brewing Company

BREWPUB The craft beer and barbecue come with a side of Hoosier hoops nostalgia at this popular Boone County hangout. Its location, a former high school gymnasium, drips with vestiges of its hardwood past, but Moontown’s house-brewed beers are constantly evolving. The food is kissed with just the right amount of smoke, served on paperlined trays, and not limited to conventional barbecue. 345 S. Bowers St., Whitestown, 317-769-3880, moontownbeer.com $$

Noah Grant’s Grill House & Oyster Bar

SEAFOOD The sushi list is solid at this surfand-turf spot, but even better bets are superfresh oysters and savory short rib wontons to nibble on while you explore the voluminous menu. Entrees range from fish and chips to coconut-crusted mahi mahi. 91 S. Main St., Zionsville, 317-732-2233, noahgrants.com $$$

Trax BBQ

BARBECUE Owner Andrew Klein, who has a background in high-end steakhouses, oversees the tender headliners at this no-frills barbecue joint that sits beside the train tracks in McCordsville. You can taste his expertise in the essential meats: brisket hacked into fatty hunks, pulled pork that melts in the mouth,

and ribs by the rack, all prepared in a smoker that customers walk past just before they hit the front door. Fans of smoked meats order off a menu that covers traditional carnivore territory, as well as some creative upgrades, including a heap of pulled pork nachos and The Willie brisket sandwich topped with hot liquid cheese and slaw on a toasted brioche bun. 7724 Depot St., McCordsville, 317-335-7675, traxbbq.com $$

NORTHEAST

INCLUDES Broad Ripple, Castleton, Keystone at the Crossing, Meridian-Kessler, Nora, SoBro

Big Lug Canteen

BREWPUB In this spacious hangout steps from the Monon Trail, seasonal beers and house standards include spins on wheats, ales, and IPAs. The menu is always filled with fun surprises (a Taco Bell–inspired pizza or a “horseshoe of the week” inspired by the gloppy sandwich of Springfield, Illinois), as well as excellent poutine, salads, and sandwiches, none more macho than the Nashville Hot Chicken. 1435 E. 86th St., 317-672-3503, biglugcanteen.com V $$

Blupoint Oyster House

SEAFOOD A blue dining room draped in rattan pendant lights and subtly nautical decor sets the scene for Gino Pizzi’s ode to coastal Italian fare. The scaled-down menu focuses on heartfelt dishes like squid ink tonnarelli in lemon cream sauce, misto mare, and pan-roasted salmon. Fresh oysters are shucked to order. 5858 N. College Ave., 317-559-3259, blupointindy.com $$

Broad Ripple Brewpub

PUB GRUB We love the mainstays at Indiana’s oldest operating microbrewery: a creamy beer cheese crock, Scotch eggs, and crunchy fish and chips. Depending on the season, you will want to grab a spot next to the fireplace or outside on the see-and-be-seen patio. 840 E. 65th St., 317-253-2739, broadripplebrewpub.com V $$

Hollyhock Hill

FAMILY DINING Hollyhock Hill sticks with what’s worked since it opened in 1928: comfort in the form of chicken. Among the frilly tables, servers dole out platters of skillet-fried goodness paired with mashed potatoes, corn, green beans, and buttermilk biscuits. 8110 N. College Ave., 317-251-2294, hollyhockhill.com $$$

Petite Chou

BISTRO Tucked into one of Broad Ripple’s most iconic backstreet parcels, this French cousin of Cafe Patachou keeps its menu brief but fancy. Diners might enjoy onion soup gratinée and butter lettuce salad before the evening’s dinner rush, when côte de porc and lobster and frites are served with champagne in bottled or cocktail form. Even the family-style fried chicken dinner (offered on Wednesday nights only, with mashed potatoes, buttered peas, and a salad for the table) involves a pretty white bucket embellished with a pink Petite Chou logo. Whether you opt for the knife-and-fork burger or the duck confit, start with the steak tartare and end with the ice cream–stuffed profiteroles

under chocolate syrup poured tableside. 823 E. Westfield Blvd., 317-259-0765, petitechoubistro .com $$$

NORTHWEST

INCLUDES College Park, Lafayette Square

Amara Indian Cuisine and Bar

INDIAN Southern Indian and Indochinese specialties abound on the menu at this northside Asian eatery with a surprising selection of spirits and wines. Butter chicken, tandoori items, and familiar curries are solid here, but forgo more typical Indian dishes in favor of a variety of small plates such as eggplant and kale chaat dressed up with chutneys, crispy Manchurian cauliflower or mushrooms, and Juicy Drums of Heaven, a platter of chicken drumsticks in a rich, tangy sauce. Don’t miss the playful fusion twist on saag paneer with spiced greens that comes topped with burrata. A full range of dosas includes smaller, fluffier uttapam dosas served with hearty rasam soup and two sauces. 1454 W. 86th St., 317-884-6982, amaraindy.com V $$

Byrne’s Grilled Pizza

PIZZA Since 2015, this onetime food truck has been serving its quirky, addictive brand of charred-edge grilled pies with crackly, wafer-thin crusts to the pizza lovers of ButlerTarkington. A transfer of ownership has ushered in even funkier decor touches, as well as new cocktails, organic wines, and seasonal specials, such as pies showered in Indiana sweet corn or slathered with beet puree and topped with delicata squash and goat cheese. 5615 N. Illinois St., 317-737-2056, byrnespizza.com V $$

Chapati

MIDDLE EASTERN It’s not enough that the butter chicken melts in your mouth or the lamb kebab bursts with flavor—or that those family recipes, passed from generation to generation, barely scratch the surface of a menu that goes deep into Pakistani, Indian, and Middle Eastern cuisine. This chill westside counter service spot has a fried chicken side hustle called Shani’s Secret Chicken focused on humanely prepared Halal fried chicken cooked three ways. 4930 Lafayette Rd., 317-405-9874, eatchapati.com V $$

Chef Borel’s Kitchen

CREOLE/CAJUN Fans of the now-closed Borel’s Cajun & Creole Cookery on West 86th Street will recognize the New Orleans–inspired dishes at this Michigan Road delivery and carryoutonly spot. But daughter Theresa Borel has since completed culinary school and local externships that have helped the kitchen she now heads up put out even more polished and flavorful bayou fare with some Caribbean and African twists. Shrimp and grits are a signature here, with some of the most butter-rich grits you’ll find in the city. But gumbo, whether seafood or chicken and sausage, is a Borel family recipe you’ll wish was your own. Jambalaya, cheesy etouffee, and well-stuffed po’ boys with catfish, andouille, and soft-shell crab will definitely land this place on your weekly lunch list. Borel’s take on classic dirty rice and the Lowcountry Hoppin’ John are lesser-seen regional favorites that will make

this your go-to source not just for Mardi Gras parties but for stick-to-your-ribs eating all year round. 6950 Michigan Rd., 317-492-9448, chef borel.com $$

The Loft Restaurant

FINE DINING With its pastoral setting on the grounds of an artisanal dairy farm, Traders Point Creamery’s farmstead restaurant (housed in one of several restored historic barns) feels like a working model for farm-to-table dining. Some of the ingredients on executive chef Jon Warner’s menu are grown on-site, and it would be a shame to pass on the charcuterie board, an appetizer featuring the creamery’s award-winning cheeses. Niman Ranch steaks, seasonal fish, and house-made yeast rolls are always solid choices, as is the burger made with 100-percent grass-fed beef and dressed with caramelized onions, snappy bread-and-butter pickles, bacon, and cheddar. For dessert, go a la mode. 9101 Moore Rd., Zionsville, 317-7331700, traderspointcreamery.com V $$$

SOUTH SUBURBAN

INCLUDES Bargersville, Greenwood

Antilogy

BRUNCH AND COCKTAILS This snug corner spot at the end of a Kroger parking lot divides its energy between the morning meal and evening libations. Early birds can choose from thoughtful combinations of fat biscuits, sunny eggs, bourbon-candied bacon, and Belgian waffles, with plenty of Bovaconti Coffee–based lattes and mochas to kick-start the day. In the evening, the menu shifts to shareable plates, such as a panko-crusted crispy burrata, parmesan truffle fries, and a molten spinach-Gruyère dip. 5867 N. State Rd. 135, Greenwood, 317-530-5312, antilogycg.com $$

Mr. Patakon

NEW COLOMBIAN The name of Diana Moreno and Brenda Sánchez’s festive, authentic Southside Colombian eatery comes from the popular Latin and South American dish patacones—flattened, fried plantains filled with everything from shredded barbecue chicken criollo to cheese, corn, and shredded beef. But more familiar fare includes generously stuffed arepas, hearty sub sandwiches, and colorfully conceived hot dogs like the Perro Hawaiano, which comes dressed up with pineapple and a creamy pink sauce, or the Super Perro, which is topped with every meat in the kitchen, quail eggs, and a special house sauce. Mazorcada (heaps of sweet corn topped with meats, cheeses, and potato sticks) is a delectably novel side dish or a light lunch portion, and fruit drinks and desserts, especially obleas (wafer cookies filled with dulce de leche and cheese), are worth the extra calories for a flavor experience like no other in the city. 7415 U.S. 31, 317-692-9829, mrpatakon.com $$

Pizza & Libations

PIZZA The personal-sized pies are presented on thin, fermented crusts at this Bargersville establishment run by the folks who own the

neighboring Taxman Brewing Company. But the menu has surprising range. Shared plates include a jumbo ball of fresh burrata oozing over caramelized onions and blistered tomatoes, delicate beef carpaccio, and a version of octopus in squid ink sauce that is not for the faint of heart. Chase your bites with sips of the When in Rome bourbon cocktail that has hints of lemon and basil, or pick anything off of the extensive spirits menu that includes a section dedicated to prosecco spritzes and trending aperitifs and digestifs. For dessert, do not pass up the baseball-sized scoops of buttery-sweet house-made gelato in creamy, complex flavors such as raspberry, chunky pistachio, and a lovely Italian stracciatella rippled with slivers of shaved chocolate. 75 N. Baldwin St., Bargersville, 317-771-3165, pizza andlibations.com V $$$

Revery

CONTEMPORARY This chef-driven bistro in Old Greenwood offers approachable fine dining, with a casual workingman’s bar on the historic building’s back end. Unexpected small plates have included beets with whipped goat cheese and wasabi and cheese curds fried in chorizo oil. 299 W. Main St., Greenwood, 317-215-4164, reverygreenwood.com V $$$

WEST

INCLUDES Brownsburg, Pittsboro

Bob’s Indian Kitchen

INDIAN A surprisingly spacious and airy counter service location in a new mini-strip houses Bhavesh “Bob” Patel’s ode to home-cooked Indian cuisine. Entry-level cream cheese bhajia and dreamy butter chicken get just as much respect as the crispy pani puri filled with tamarind water, the goat biryani lavished with ginger and garlic, and the mini section of Indian pizzas. Whether you opt for the mild or spicy seasoning, always include a cooling mango lassi in your order. 618 E. Main St., Brownsburg, 317- 983-0225, bobsindian.square.site V $$

Rick’s Cafe Boatyard

SEAFOOD You don’t have to be a Parrothead (though it helps) to appreciate the pontoon-life allure of Eagle Creek’s waterside restaurant, with its breezy dining room on stilts over the Dandy Trail boat slips. The menu gets creative with all of the casual dining tropes, mixing smoked salmon nachos and chicken cordon bleu fingers in with the jumbo shrimp martinis. 4050 Dandy Trail, 317290-9300, ricksboatyard.com $$$ INDIANAPOLIS

A Man of the People

I’VE LIKED MOST OF THE 80,000 FOLKS WHO’VE CROSSED MY PATH—EXCEPT THE NAME-DROPPERS.

BY PHILIP GULLEY

After lunch, I stopped by The Republican newspaper to say hi to Betty, Michelle, Kirsten, Beth, and Oakley, none of whom were on my list. Walking the mile from The Republican to our house north of town, I passed houses that had been lived in by people I had once known but were now deceased, so I added 56 more names to my list, which made me realize I knew more people under the earth than on it. When I got home, I asked Google how many people the average person met during their lifetime and got the answer 80,000, which means I’d be spending the rest of my life writing down names, so I gave up. This is the usual course of most of my endeavors—a rapid burst of activity, followed by a meal, then growing discouragement, my eventual surrender, and a nap. Google didn’t mention what percentage of our known associates we like. Of the 80,000 people I’ve met, I can only think of a few I haven’t liked. But since we live in the same town, I won’t mention their names, even though it would make this essay more interesting to my fellow citizens. Some of the people I know don’t like other people I know, and sometimes I invite them over to my house at the same time hoping to get them to become friends. But it always ends up the same, with all of them hating me.

section. The problem with people you’ve known a long time is their knowing the worst things about you and reminding you of them every chance they get. When we were 12 years old, I caused Bill Eddy to crash his bicycle into the back of a parked car and he mentions it several times a year. Some people, if you cause them to shatter a leg, crack three vertebrae, and have a brain bleed, are unable to let it go.

If the average person meets 80,000 people during their lifetime, it goes without saying that some folks meet more people than others. President Biden knows a whole lot more people than my friend Greg, who lives deep in the wilderness in Alaska and goes weeks at a time without seeing anyone. Greg’s the only person I’ve ever known who, when he fell off his roof while shingling it, had to drag himself into his cabin before a grizzly bear ate him. Greg is one of the most interesting people I know, not only because of where he lives, but also because he only wears black jumpsuits to spare himself the trouble of deciding what to wear. If Greg knows a couple hundred people, I’d be surprised.

THIS PAST SU MMER, on an unusually boring morning while trying to avoid work, I began writing down the names of everyone I knew. I stopped when I got to 300, mostly because it was time to eat lunch with Bill Eddy and Jerry Vornholt, two of the people on my list. We ate lunch at Frank’s Place; I also know Frank, plus all his family, whose names I hadn’t written down. While at Frank’s, I saw my neighbor, Larry; a man from my childhood named Keith; another man named Wilfred (who sold his house to my son two years ago); and their friend Kenny, who delivered our mail when I was a kid. I added their names to my list when I got home.

We tend to think the people we’ve known the longest are the ones we like the most, but that isn’t always true. I’ve known my friend Charlie less than six years, but if I wrote down a list of my top 10 favorite people, he’d be on it. I’ve known other people all my life, but if I see them at the grocery store inspecting the cantaloupes, I go hide in the dairy

A man in my Quaker meeting named Frank knew Harry Truman, who knew, among others, Franklin Roosevelt, Dwight Eisenhower, John F. Kennedy, Joseph Stalin, Richard Nixon, and Queen Elizabeth II. I don’t like to brag, but that means I almost knew them, too. Plus, my friend Charlie was related to Mary Todd Lincoln, which means Abraham and I were practically best friends.

Of all the people I’ve met, the ones I like the least are the name-droppers, the ones who’ve brushed up against fame and won’t shut up about it.

Illustration by RYAN SNOOK

Philip Gulley is a Quaker pastor, author, and humorist. Back Home Again chronicles his views on life in Indiana.

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