I S S U E N O. 167
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J A K A R TA • J AVA • B A L I • LO M B O K • K A L I M A N TA N • S U M AT R A • S U L AW E S I • W E S T PA P UA
W W W. I N D O N E S I A E X PAT. B I Z
issue 167 Indonesia expat
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Indonesia expat issue 167
issue 167 Indonesia expat
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Letter from the Editor
Editor in Chief
Dear Readers,
Angela Richardson angela@indonesiaexpat.biz
Marketing Consultant
history but don’t know where to start, a visit to Kunstkring Paleis in Jakarta’s Menteng should ignite your senses and set you on the path to discovery. May Tien visits this old building and its stunningly preserved artefacts in this issue’s Food & Drink section – and tries one of the most important colonial contributions to Indonesian cuisine: the rijsttafel.
Edo Frese edo@indonesiaexpat.biz
Editorial Assistant
Caranissa Djatmiko letters@indonesiaexpat.biz
Sales & Advertising
Dian Mardianingsih (Jakarta) Ervina Tambun (Jakarta) Wahyu Atmaja (Bali) ads@indonesiaexpat.biz
Distribution & Admin
Juni Setiawan admin@indonesiaexpat.biz
Finance
Lini Verawaty finance@indonesiaexpat.biz
Contributors
Terry Collins Karen Davis Tim Hannigan Richard Horstman Rosie Milne Lina Noviandari David E. Parry Roga Schultz May Tien Kenneth Yeung
Editorial Enquiries
letters@indonesiaexpat.biz
Subscriptions
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“If you don’t know history, then you don’t know anything. You are a leaf that doesn’t know it is part of a tree.” – Michael Crichton, author, producer, director, screenwriter and physician
The words of the author of Jurassic Park (1990) above may sound harsh, but can we fault them? Historians claim over and over again that history makes us and better prepares us for the future. Some go as far as saying that without history there would be no future. We believe understanding the history of this complex nation is extremely important, and therefore present you with a whole issue dedicated to it! You’re extremely lucky this edition, as the Feature Story is written by Tim Hannigan, author of A Brief History of Indonesia - which I believe every single Indonesian and expat living in Indonesia should read - as well as Raffles and the British Invasion of Java. For us, he explores the history of Islam in Indonesia – a topic that is
very current, especially when considering the heightened radicalism measures we are seeing across the nation, including the bylaw to ban alcohol in the second largest city of Surabaya. In business, we explore one of the oldest industries that remains an economic pillar in Indonesia’s market: tobacco. Whether you love it or think it blows smoke, understanding its history and what the future has in store for this industry is imperative. Lina Noviandari explores just that, and also talks to supporters for and activists against the creation of further regulations of the use of this substance in Indonesia, a nation with over 3,000 cigarette brands from 672 companies.
We also meet a well-known figure in the fight for the preservation of Indonesian art and heritage: Bruce W. Carpenter. This expatriate has called Bali home since the ‘70s and is the author of at least eight books on Indonesian art. Carpenter wants young Indonesians to study their own art, culture and heritage to achieve a “modicum of prosperity”. Karen Davis brings you this interesting interview from Bali. We sincerely hope you enjoy – and learn a few things from this history issue. May it serve as inspiration and set you on the path to learning more of what this fascinating country’s past has to offer. Happy reading!
If you’re keen to learn more about Indonesia’s
Angela Richardson
Events
events@indonesiaexpat.biz
Published by
PT. Koleksi Klasik Indonesia Alamanda Tower 25th floor Jl. T.B Simatupang kav 23–24 Jakarta 12430 T: 021 2965 7821 F: 021 2965 7821 Office hours: 09.00–17.00 Monday–Friday Indonesia Expat is published bi-weekly by PT. Koleksi Klasik Indonesia. Opinions Expressed in this publication are those of the writers and the publisher does not accept any responsibility for any errors, ommisions, or complaints arising there from. No parts of this publication can be reproduced in whole or in part, in print or electronically without permission of the publisher. All trademarks, logos, brands and designs are copyright and fully reserved by PT. Koleksi Klasik Indonesia.
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Letters from the Readers
Dear editor, I read your latest issue and was particularly interested in the feature story discussing the local attempt to legalize marijuana. With all the attention the Indonesian government is receiving due to its decision to execute more drug smugglers, I must say that it came as a surprise that there is in fact an organization striving to make cannabis legal in this country. I come from the States, and there we have legalized the herb medicinally under state law in several states. It’s interesting to note that in the 1600s the government passed a legislation that required every farmer to grow hemp (the plant itself) and hemp was accepted as legal tender in certain states. It was only criminalized in the 20th century.
I can attest to this herb’s medicinal purposes. My 65-year-old mother, who doesn't live in Indonesia, suffers from rheumatoid arthritis and she takes cannabis in the form of a cookie or butter spread on her toast whenever the pain is at its peak. She feels so much better for it and is actually able to eat, since it brings on her appetite – otherwise she would wither away! She also had breast cancer and during chemotherapy, eating cannabis was the only thing that got rid of her nausea and helped her to eat, which of course helped her recovery immensely. I can’t thank this magical plant enough for all it’s done for my mother. I am just glad that your article shows a different perspective on such a sensitive matter that everyone has the right to know more about.
Kind regards, A friendly expat who prefers to remain anonymous On The Cover
Insulae Indae Orientalis by J. Hondius. Circa 1630. Courtesy of Bartele Gallery.
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Issue 167
Contents 06 08 10 12
Settlers, Saints, Kings and Conversions: The Dawn of Indonesian Islam
Expat Business Featured With a Long History in Indonesia, Tobacco Remains an Economic Pillar Business Profile PT Pembangunan Kota Tua: Rebuilding Ruins
Expat Lifestyle Food and Drink Tugu Kunstkring Paleis
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Music The Influence of Javanese Music on Early Jazz
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Living Life Back Then
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Cartography The Mapping of Java
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Sports UEFA European Championships Special
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Meet the Expat Art Appreciation: Bruce W. Carpenter
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Feature Story
Expat Outreach
Art of the Indies Kamasan: An Ancient Living Tradition Meet the Expat History in the Making: Michael Nicholson
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Scams in the City Car Trouble
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Worthy Causes Teater Satu: Redefining Indonesian Theatre
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Announcements For the Macet Mind
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Events and Directory
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Classifieds
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Settlers, Saints, Kings and Conversions: The Dawn of Indonesian Islam Author of A Brief History of Indonesia, Tim Hannigan, travels back in time to explore the history of Islam in Indonesia. BY TIM HANNIGAN
The grave of Fatimah Binti Maimun
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he hamlet of Leran lies amidst the low fields north of Gresik in East Java, a few kilometres inland from the muddy shores of the Madura Strait. On a December day in the year 1082, a funeral party gathered there beneath leaden monsoon skies. Leran lay within the kingdom of Kediri, a realm ruled by a raja who claimed to be an incarnation of the god Vishnu, and in the surrounding countryside there were temples where shaven-headed priests oversaw Hindu worship. But there was no such priest amongst the members of the funeral party, and there was no pyre of scented timber. Instead there was a hole dug into the damp soil and aligned so that the corpse, bound in pale cloth and laid on its side, would face towards the northwest. When the mourners gathered at the graveside, they cupped their hands and whispered words of Arabic prayer. They were burying a Muslim. Her name, marked later in Kufic calligraphy on a carven headstone, was Fatimah binti Maimun, Fatimah daughter of Maimun.
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We know nothing about her – her age, her race, her place of birth or cause of death. But amongst the various flotsam and jetsam of history, cast up along Indonesia’s shores, hers is the oldest identified Muslim tomb, dating back almost 1,000 years, fully two centuries before the rise of the Hindu-Buddhist Majapahit kingdom. Indonesia is the largest Muslim-majority nation on earth, but the story of how exactly this state of affairs came to be is as murky as a cup of kopi tubruk, with myth and misinformation poured in heaps. And yet flickering throughout the early centuries of Islamisation, there are flashes of light: a casual comment in a Chinese chronicle; an incongruous grave marker; a fabulous folktale wrapped around an elusive fact; and here and there an enigmatic name – like that of Fatimah binti Maimun. It was trade that brought the first Muslims to Indonesia. Straddling the space between the Indian
Ocean and the South China Sea, this has always been the ultimate international shipping junction. The river-mouth ports around the Straits of Melaka were places where you could pick up Indian pottery, Chinese silk, cloves and nutmeg from Maluku, sandalwood from Timor, rice from Java – and perhaps the occasional slave from Bali. Needless to say, all these heady business opportunities attracted outsiders, and the earliest expats in Indonesia were vagabonding merchants from China and India, based in places like Srivijaya – the fabled Buddhist trading state of southern Sumatra. We know that the first Muslim travellers had already reached China by the middle of the seventh century (just a couple of decades after the death of the Prophet Muhammad); it seems more than likely that some of their coreligionists made it as far as Indonesia around the same time. Indeed, some of the early emissaries from Srivijaya to China seem to have been Muslims – judging by the way their names were recorded in the Chinese records. They were probably international itinerants who had offered
Tim Hannigan hails from Cornwall in the far west of the United Kingdom. He first came to Indonesia to go surfing, but he soon got hooked on the country's potential for dry-land adventure. His most recent book is A Brief History of Indonesia
The Prophet Muhammad appeared to him in a dream and spat in his mouth, and when he woke he found that he had somehow learnt to speak Arabic – and had been circumcised! their seafaring services to the Buddhist king, and in the decades and centuries that followed there were many more like them – Muslim travellers from China, India, Persia and Arabia who settled in Indonesia’s burgeoning ports, creating little communities of expat Islam in the process. Fatimah binti Maimun, whoever she was, was probably part of this scattered but diverse population of international Islam in early Indonesia. You’ll find a curious mirror of this history today in the small Indonesian-Arab communities in the old quarters of port cities like Surabaya, traders in perfume and agarwood. They are the descendants of settlers from Yemen who arrived in the last few centuries, but with their distinct identity, apart from the Indonesian mainstream, they probably bear more than a passing resemblance to their predecessors in Srivijaya. In light of all this, it’s not so much the fact that Indonesia became Muslim that seems strange; it’s the fact that it took so long to make the change. Some historians used to give much of the credit for the eventual conversion to the traders. But the fact that there were foreign Muslims passing through – and almost certainly resident in – Indonesia for hundreds of years before large-scale conversions began, suggests that they probably didn’t have much influence with the locals. When the change really did get going, it seems to have come from the top down. The first Muslim king in Indonesia was a man named Malik as-Saleh. He died in 1297, and he ruled over a little state called Samudera Pasai in the far northeast of Sumatra (where Marco Polo reported Muslim territories at about the same time), but according to local legend he had started out as a “heathen” by the name of Merah Silau. His conversion to Islam wasn’t exactly conventional: the Prophet Muhammad appeared to him in a dream and spat in his mouth, and when he woke he found that he had somehow learnt to speak Arabic – and had been circumcised! There is a very similar story of a magical dreamconversion told in Melaka on the other side of the Straits of Melaka, and throughout the archipelago local legends place miracles at the heart of the conversion process. The king of Makassar, seat of Sulawesi’s mightiest seafarers, converted after a visiting holy man magically rid the surrounding forests of wild pigs. The local penchant for pork had been a major stumbling block on the path to Islam, but once there were no more pigs there was no more resistance! Farfetched though these legends might be, they do all involve an Indonesian king converting – and that is how things really did unfold in most places. By the 14th and 15th centuries, Islam had become by far the biggest club in Asia, a unifying standard that gave people everywhere from the Taklamakan Desert to the Coromandel Coast a shared vocabulary. For an Indonesian king presiding over an economy based on international trade, signing up made very good sense indeed. And where kings led, commoners followed. Those little communities of foreign Muslim traders dotted around Indonesia – who’d probably been viewed with benign bewilderment by the locals for generations – suddenly found themselves surrounded by coreligionists.
A Javanese 'priest' by Ernest Hardouin circa 1873. Courtesy of Bartele Gallery
The only place where things unfolded a little differently was – inevitably – Java. When the first Portuguese traders turned up in Southeast Asia – in the early 16th century, when the process of Islamisation was at full tilt – they noted that inland Java was still the realm of “a great heathen king”, none other than Brawijaya VII, Emperor of Majapahit. Along the north coast of the island, however, there were fiefdoms ruled by Muslims who were taking on Javanese manners and customs, but who were descended from Chinese, Persian and Indian immigrants. And somewhere in the space between these incomers who had “made themselves more important in Javanese nobility and state than those of the hinterland” and the masters of the fading Hindu-Buddhist empire, Islam was beginning to thread its way into the fabric of Java itself, tangling with other strands as it did so; a mysterious process represented today by the tales of the semi-mythical Wali Songo, the “Nine Saints” credited in traditional stories with converting Java to Islam. By the early 17th century the job was done, and almost all the areas of Indonesia that have a Muslim majority today had converted – officially, at least. On the ground the process of forging the many distinct and distinctive Indonesian versions of Islam was only just beginning, of course – but that’s another story… But stop. Rewind for a moment: the first Muslims to visit Indonesia – and in all likelihood the first Muslims
to live in Indonesia, even if only temporarily – had probably arrived some 900 years earlier, and in that simple fact there’s a hidden story. The traders, travellers, itinerants and imperialists who have come to Indonesia over the centuries have overwhelmingly been male. And yet many of them created little communities on the fringes of the archipelago’s ports. Communities need women, and those women, naturally, were locals; they were Indonesians. The Chinese migrants who have been setting up shop in Indonesia since the First Millennium CE married local women, and in doing so created the distinctive Peranakan Chinese-creole culture of maritime Southeast Asia. The Portuguese and the Dutchmen who followed them also married Javanese, Sundanese and Malay girls and gave rise to the huge Indo-European population – now largely forgotten but a prominent feature of Indonesia right to the end of the colonial period. Those early Muslim settlers would have done exactly the same thing – and in the name of marriage their Indonesian wives would have usually become Muslims too. Long before any internationally-minded king had a peculiar dream, quite possibly within a century of Islam’s Arabian emergence, a girl from Sumatra or Java opened her mouth, uttered the mellifluous syllables of the Shahada, and joined the faith of her foreign husband. The first Indonesian Muslim was almost certainly a woman...
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EXPAT BUSINESS FEATURED
With a Long History in Indonesia, Tobacco Remains an Economic Pillar Tobacco companies in Indonesia could face challenging times, as regulators tighten. But with power and resources, cigarette firms have cause to be optimistic. BY LINA NOVIANDARI
When it comes to the oldest businesses in Indonesia, farmers and plantationrelated industries are among the first to ring the bell. Acknowledging the country’s fertile soil, Dutch colonials in Indonesia implemented new crop cultivation systems to gain revenue and fund operations at large in the archipelago. The likes of quinine, pepper, rubber, coffee, oil, and tobacco were among the chosen commodities to fuel the Dutch economic growth.
During the New Order era (the period when Suharto was president), big tobacco firms profited greatly, and regulations remained laughable. After the regime collapsed at the turn of the century, the government implemented restrictions to address the nation’s tobacco epidemic. Some of the policies identified tobacco as an addictive substance in the 2009 Health Law. The law also addressed cigarette advertising in the electronic media, the restrictions on tobacco sponsorships at sporting events and concerts, pictorial health warnings in cigarette ads and packaging, as well as smoke-free areas in public places. Anti-smoking groups emerged to remind the government to do its job and regulate the substance.
Although Dutch colonization in Indonesia has been over for quite some time, most of the commodities they cultivated still thrive today. Tobacco, however, could be facing stricter laws in the years to come, despite serving as a historical economic pillar in the country. Introduced by Portuguese merchants in the 1600s, it wasn’t until 1863 that a Dutch businessman named Jacobus Nienhuys began building the nation’s tobacco sector. Tobacco brands began cropping up in the early 20th century, with the most famous one known as Bal Tiga (Three Balls). The brand came about following the invention of kretek. The cigarette made with a blend of tobacco, cloves, and other flavours was discovered by a man named Haji Jamhari, a native of Kudus in Central Java. Jamhari, who suffered from chest pains, tried carrying out an experiment to reduce his pain by rubbing clove oil on himself. Believing the oil made him feel better, he aimed to achieve a deeper relief by smoking hand-rolled cigarettes after adding dried clove buds and rubber tree sap. His story spread quickly amongst his neighbours, and kretek soon became available in pharmacies. In those years, the substance was seen as more of a home-industry product. Cigarettes were hand-rolled, then wrapped in a dry corn husk without any branding or packaging.
Harvesting tobacco. Photo: Eko Susanto
acquired Sampoerna. Four years later, UKbased British American Tobacco acquired Bentoel Group. As of 2014, there were more than 3,000 cigarette brands owned by 672 companies across the archipelago. This makes tobacco one of the most lucrative industries in the region, and a bona fide staple in the Indonesian economy. As the fifth-largest producer of tobacco leaves in the world, cigarette prices are dirt cheap in Indonesia. With just US$1 smokers can buy their favourite pack of cigarettes. Selling single-stick cigarettes is also common in the country, enabling the poor and even children to get their hands
on tobacco. Mix this dynamic with a low excise tax and loose regulations, and the result is that one in every three people in Indonesia smoke. The country is now the second-largest smoking nation after China, and the fourth-largest in the world. It is even reported that Indonesian children, some as young as five years old, have taken up smoking. These stats mean one thing for Indonesian tobacco companies: there is a large domestic market for the taking. However, it also means Indonesia’s tobacco control authorities have their work cut out for them.
After Jamhari made his revelation, the first mass production line of kretek was introduced by Nitisemito, a fellow Kudus local. He introduced cigarette papers in place of corn husks, created a brand name, and started doing promotional campaigns. Bal Tiga became popular and propelled the region’s economic growth for years to come. However, the competition was so fierce that Nitisemito eventually faced financial failure with the firm before he died in 1953. Although Bal Tiga closed its doors, many tobacco brands that operated during the same period still managed to survive. Names like Sampoerna, Bentoel, Djarum, and Gudang Garam became the largest tobacco conglomerates in Indonesia. Witnessing the industry’s growth over the decades, international tobacco firms began eyeing the Indonesian market. In 2005, US-based Philip Morris International 8
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A klobot cigarette handwrapped with corn skin. Photo: Eko Susanto
Today, Indonesia’s tobacco regulations are still considered weak by advocate groups and lobbyists. Although the tobacco tax increased this year, the government is also making a controversial move by finalizing the tobacco bill, which was initially rejected by the Health Ministry last December. Many speculate that tobacco companies are the brains behind the bill itself, and as such, it will only benefit the tobacco industry more in Indonesia. In an interview with Indonesia Expat, Dr. Kartono Mohamad, a representative from the Tobacco Support Control Centre (TCSC) Indonesia, expressed disappointment with local regulations.
Lina Noviandari is a Jakarta-based freelance journalist and former editor at Tech in Asia. She specializes in news, business and human interest stories from Southeast Asia. For more information, visit www.contentcollision.co
Tobacco being sold in a traditional market. Photo: Eko Susanto
“With a long history of success, big tobacco names have strong political and economic resources in Jakarta.” “Tobacco regulation in Indonesia is still weak, mainly due to naivety of politicians and decision makers on the magnitude of the dangers of smoking,” says Mohamad. “Society and government are still more fixated on the myths propagated by the tobacco industry rather than looking at the reality [...] The seduction of money from the tobacco industry too [comes into play].” With a long history of success, big tobacco names have strong political and economic resources in Jakarta. Tobacco tax has become one of the leading sources of Indonesia’s excise revenue. This year, the country aims to pull in Rp.139.82 trillion (US$10.3 billion) from tobacco tax. Politically speaking, there is much speculation that big tobacco firms have strong connections to policy makers, and cash flows illegally into coffers in exchange for political favours. In addition, big tobacco names routinely launch social programmes to build a good image in Indonesia. Some firms offer educational scholarships and sportsrelated scholarships to local youth societies. Many believe these efforts allow cigarette conglomerates to thrive, as regulations remain loose. Though the myriad of anti-smoking groups seem to pose a threat in Jakarta, the tobacco industry has its own supporters. Alfa Gumilang, a representative of Komunitas Kretek (Kretek Community), tells Indonesia Expat, “We no longer need to add regulations that advocate against [the] tobacco industry because regulations that exist today are already
quite a lot. There is no need for FCTC, [a] tobacco diversification plan, significant tax increases, prohibition of scholarships for smokers, [or a] health insurance ban for smokers, etc.” With power and support – and so long as Indonesia is still among the few countries that have not signed the World Health Organization's Framework Convention on Tobacco Control (FCTC) – big tobacco families remain optimistic about the Indonesian market. As for regulations, Mohamad suggests the government should implement rules that will not harm tobacco farmers. In his eyes, laws can offer exemptions to farmers who might face economic hardship if the country makes moves to scale back tobacco production. There are also ways for tobacco farmers to shift their operations toward other commodities, he says, adding that those in charge could also be educated about not destroying the environment with farming activities. Mohamad thinks tobacco leaf imports should be tightened up significantly, and that the government should pay more attention to educating the current tobacco labour force, guiding them towards a new line of work. Gumilang offers his opinion on that matter: “If the government wants to create new regulations, it is time to create those which specifically provide protection for tobacco farmers, provide credit and technological assistance to them, and protect them from imported tobacco.” issue 167 Indonesia expat
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EXPAT BUSINESS BUSINESS PROFILE
PT Pembangunan Kota Tua
Rebuilding Ruins Most of Jakarta is made of relatively new developments and expanding suburbs. However, look to the North and you’ll find Kota Tua, or ‘Old Town’, which was where the original city of Batavia began hundreds of years ago. Until recently, little or no work had been done to restore the old buildings in this area, and many were left in ruins. In 2013, PT Pembangunan Kota Tua was launched by a consortium of eight companies and began restoration works, so far having renovated the Fatahillah Museum and Post Office. Local media have reported that Governor Ahok is disgruntled with the work achieved thus far, with only two buildings having been restored in over two years. We meet Luki Santoso, the Site Manager of PT Pembangunan Kota Tua in charge of reconstruction projects taking place to turn Kota Tua into a UNESCO World Heritage Site, to find out about the difficulties they face, and about the schedule for completion of the Tjipta Niaga building.
Pak Luki, how did you get involved in this career path? I’m quite a recent addition to PT Pembangunan Kota Tua, having joined the team as Site Manager in November. I’m currently in charge of all the construction phases of the UNESCO World Heritage site of Kota Tua in North Jakarta. Can you share a little bit about Kota Tua’s history with us? I am not the best historian, but I will try! Kota Tua was the first town that was built by the Dutch East India Company (VOC) when Jan Pieterszoon Coen was the Governor General. In 1619, the Dutch were able to regain control of the town which had been taken over by the English temporarily when they were away on an expedition, but a fire had ruined much of the city. Coen rebuilt the fort and the city, and in 1621 he renamed the city Batavia, the capital of the Dutch East Indies.
BUSINESS SNIPPETS
Indonesia eases foreign ownership in retail and port sectors Indonesia has eased foreign ownership rules in the retail sector and port services as part of efforts to open up more opportunities for its economy. President Joko Widodo signed revised investment regulations, which spell out which sectors are partially closed or entirely closed to foreign investors, known as ‘the negative investment list’. The revisions were made during the week of May 16, taking effect immediately, according to a copy uploaded onto a government website. 10
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The government announced the revision to rules on foreign ownership in February, saying it has decided to loosen restrictions on everything from food and beverages to agriculture, transportation and movie theatres. However, the new regulation sets a 49 percent foreign ownership cap on small e-commerce businesses, contradicting the government’s earlier statement that it will open the sector 100 percent to foreign investment.
PT Pembangunan Kota Tua was launched in late 2013 by a consortium of eight companies. Can you share with us who the founders are and what the shared vision is? Those are Jababeka, Intiland, Agung Pomodoro Land, PT Pembangunan Jaya, Plaza Indonesia, Mr. Setyo Dharmono (SDD), and Mr. Lin Chi Wei (LCW). Kota Tua as a tourism destination will be united with the buffer area of Pulau Seribu (the Thousand Islands), which means having a business district and tourism destination will be achieved. The vision is to create history as the soul of the city. The original plans from 2013 were to revitalize Museum Fatahillah, and make the Fatahillah post office a visitor centre and a museum of contemporary art. Have these plans been achieved? I’m happy to say these plans have been achieved. When I was first engaged in Museum Fatahillah and Fatahillah Post office, the contemporary art museum was already in operation. What specific project are you the manager of right now? We’re currently working on the restoration of the Tjipta Niaga block, the building next to the Batavia Cafe, which was built in 1912 and was originally an insurance office by the name of Koloniale Zee en Brand Assurantie. I am in charge of implementing the construction planning and cooperating with the contractor and consultant as part of the construction management team. What does the job of Site Manager entail? To make sure that all the construction phases run on schedule! I also have to look after cost controlling as well as cooperating with the Project Manager and Project Director. What challenges do you face with old buildings in Jakarta? We face all kinds of challenges. For instance the construction methods, research, and trying to think like the original architects of the buildings who lived hundreds of years ago. What technical skills must one possess in order to restore buildings hundreds of years in age? We have to have enough ‘flight hours’ behind us. Skills and experience required to pull off a revitalization project of this nature includes architectural and
structural experience, chemical material support, and mechanical – electrical tool and equipment knowledge. We also have to have an understanding of history, city planning, laws, government policy, budgets, and, of course, health and safety at work. This is really important for the safety of all of our workers. Why do you believe preserving the city’s history is so important? We have a slogan: history is always in the making. I believe a town without history is one without a soul. What difficulties do local residents face with your revitalization project? Sometimes it can take many years for results to come. Everyone has their own expectations but once finished, the old town will foster a great community for many generations to come. People only want the best environment for their sons, daughters, parents or grandparents to live in, to achieve a good quality of life. We work hard to socialize the developments to the local community so that they understand our plans and how they will be benefited in the future. When is your target due date for the revitalization project? The block that I’m working on, which is called Tjipta Niaga, is scheduled for completion at the end of this year or the latest in 2017. The building to be restored next is the G. Kolff & Co. Building, which was once a publishing house and the first book store in old Batavia. From a business perspective, what investment opportunities are there in Kota Tua and why would you invite potential investors to look at this area in more detail? This area has the potential to be a wonderful heritage site. It connects Kota Tua as a national tourism destination and a world heritage site. Potential businesses could be restaurants, cafes, offices, travel agents, and even shopping for cultural products. What is your personal vision for Kota Tua? I would like to see this block be completely pedestrianized for everyone to enjoy.
To get in touch, please email: lukisantoso99@gmail.com
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EXPAT LIFESTYLE FOOD AND DRINK
May Tien is an award-winning home cook and champion of dispersive cuisines.
T U G U K U N S T K R I N G PA L E I S
A Culturally Rich Dining Experience in the Heart of Menteng BY MAY TIEN
On a quiet, leafy-tree street corner set amongst stately white mansions and European luxury cars parked roadside is a structural gem designed by the Dutch architect and artist Pieter Adriaan Jacobus Moojen. Constructed in 1913, the Tugu Kunstkring Paleis is an excellent example of Dutch Rationalist architecture – also known as the New Indies Style here in Southeast Asia – which introduced innovative elements to classical architectural designs to better suit the tropical climates and conditions of old Batavia.
Diners who step into the Tugu Kunstkring Paleis are immediately transported back to old Batavia, as various antiques and paintings adorn the walls and corners of each room. The sumptuous aroma of spicy incense seeps deep within as Frank Sinatra belts out ‘Corcovado’ in the background.
After the Battle of Java in 1942, the Kunstkring was transformed into an administrative building that housed the Islamic Council of Indonesia, and later served as an immigration office for central Jakarta until the late 1990s.
Dining here is a genuine cultural experience not to be missed. Those interested in colonial era culinary endeavours may be inclined to order the Rijsttafel Betawi. Rijsttafel originated as a method for the Dutch to sample various components of a traditional Indonesian meal. It is not unheard of to see 20 or more dishes paraded into the dining room and each presented by lively waitstaff dressed in traditional attire. This presentation was a way for the Dutch colonists to display wealth and revel in the exoticism of their adopted land. The rijsttafel (or ‘rice table’) was most likely based on the local hidang way of eating that is found in most Padang restaurants, where dishes are brought to the diner as opposed to making a selection from a menu. It is a gorgeous display, with food of all textures, flavours and varying degrees of spiciness. Sambals, salads, meats, stir-fries and soups are served alongside a variety of steamed rice.
In 2013, the Tugu Hotels and Restaurants Group restored and reintroduced the Kunstkring to its original splendour. The ground floor currently houses a restaurant, lounge, wine tasting room, cafe and gift shop. Upstairs, a vast and open gallery offers art exhibitions and the occasional auction.
However, for those less interested in showmanship, there is also an à la carte menu from which to choose. There are as many traditional Indonesian dishes as there are Southeast Asian and Western, and a full wine and cocktails list for an even more intoxicating experience.
Kunstkring Paleis literally translates to ‘Art Circle Palace’ and the building and interiors are truly reflective of its name. Originally built as a venue to promote the fine and decorative arts, it served as an art and cultural centre and housed a world-class art gallery with a popular cafe that served fine food and wine to the denizens of Batavia. Important works of art by the likes of Chagall, Gauguin, Van Gogh and Picasso were exhibited.
A fascinating appetizer is the Nonja Popiah, a kind of spring roll that is filled with a creamy combination of turnip, shrimp and chicken that is lightly dusted in panko flakes and then deep fried and served with melted cheese. It is rich and satisfying, a unique blend of flavours that is surprisingly familiar on both Western and Eastern palates. The Kunstkring Roast Chicken is an Asian play on duck l’orange and served with an aromatic brandy-infused orange sauce. Vegetables are an important component in an Indonesian meal, and the Sayoer Boentjis met Udang Api-Api en Telor Asin was refreshing with crisp, young green beans and fried shrimp with crispy salted egg yolk tossed together as a light stir-fry. The Steamed Barramundi Curry, a signature dish, is not to be missed. A fragrant and light coconut milk-based curry becomes indulgent when poured over a bed of steamed red rice. End the meal with some Kue Pancong, a traditional Betawi dessert consisting of a coconut cake and ice cream. During the day, a small cafe serving bread and pastries and a fine selection of Tugu blended teas and coffee from their private plantation in the hills of East Java can be enjoyed from both inside and out, as there is a peaceful balcony located on the second level of the building, with sweeping views of the Menteng neighbourhood. The Ban Lam Wine Shop and tasting room houses an array of wine from around the world. Patrons can savour their selection here or purchase bottles to bring home after a hearty meal. The importance of Tugu Kunstkring Paleis is deeply imbedded in its historical and ongoing relationship with art. As such, a walk through the gallery and exhibition hall is indeed one of the highlights of the visit. If possible, skip the elevator ride and alight the staircase to peruse the old photographs and artwork that adorn the walls and which are an integral part of the building’s history. There are private rooms with luscious Indonesian paintings and objets d’art that provide insight into an era long past. On the occasion of our visit, the Sidharta Auctioneer displayed an impressive collection of fine art, only hours away from their next sale. Prospective buyers were slowly studying their favourite pieces and browsing from some of Indonesia’s most revered modern artists. How fitting, indeed, that the Kunstkring has come full circle.
Tugu Kunstkring Paleis Jalan Teuku Umar 1, Menteng, Jakarta Pusat Tel: +62 (021) 390 0899 Website: www.tuguhotels.com/restaurants/jakarta/ kunstkring/ Email: kunstkring@tuguhotels.com 12
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EXPAT LIFESTYLE MUSIC Terry Collins, aka Jakartass, is co-administrator of IndoJazzia.net
The Influence of Javanese Music on Early Jazz BY TERRY COLLINS
Previously I wrote about the arrival of jazz in Batavia in 1919 (www.indonesiaexpat. biz/lifestyle/jazz-history-indonesia). What was heard until the invasion of the Japanese in 1942 varied little from the sounds of imported 78 rpm platen and from transcriptions of sheet music. However, what is little known in Indonesia is how a Canadian interpreter of Javanese ‘traditional’ music came to be an influence on jazz itself.
“Jazz has borrowed from other genres of music and also has lent itself to other genres of music.”
Éva Gauthier (1885–1958), a Canadian mezzo-soprano, was to be the catalyst. In a diva hissy fit, she gave up on singing high opera after she was replaced at the last minute by another singer in a 1910 Covent Garden (London) production of the Delibes opera Lakmé. She promptly left for Java to join her fiancé Frans Knoote, a Dutchman who was then managing a tea plantation outside Bandung. Within weeks of arriving, she was performing concerts of arias by Tchaikovsky and Rossini in Batavia’s Schouwburg Weltevreden (Gedung Kesenian Jakarta) accompanied by a local pianist and the house band. In the months that followed, Gauthier toured Java, playing all the major concert halls and sociëteiten (European social clubs). Sponsorship from the Robinson Piano Company, a firm specializing in pianos built for the tropics, underwrote a tour in 1911 to Kuala Lumpur, Penang, Singapore, Hong Kong, Shanghai, Tianjin, and Peking; tours to Japan, Siam, and India followed over the next two years. Knoote then got a job with a Semarang commercial firm and it was while living there that Gauthier discovered gamelan music. “From there I went to the other cities of the island. Often on the roads I would see groups of natives playing queer instruments, and hear them singing songs of many peculiar harmonies. I immediately became curious. Here was a music of which I had never heard! I, who had made music my life study! I inquired about these strange melodies. All my friends shook their heads, and said it would be impossible for me to understand the native music, no white people did, and as for singing it---!”
- Herbie Hancock
Gauthier in a Javanese headdress
stambul, a form of trans-ethnic Indonesian folk theatre, adapting them for voice and piano in a music style influenced by Debussy. Seelig provided Gauthier with a number of these song arrangements and she liked them enough to commission some more.
However, the grueling schedule of matinees and evening performances and the lack of artistic appreciation from audiences, who were otherwise entertained with trick cyclists, comedians, singers and jugglers, lead to Gauthier withdrawing from the tour after five months.
With the outbreak of the Great War (1914–18) in Europe, Gauthier decided to travel back to North America, arriving in New York City in September 1915.
New York was already home to many North American and European musical performers, so Gauthier focused on her Javanese songs, which she combined with her knowledge and skill in modernist western singing. She began a series of annual recitals at Manhattan’s Aeolian Hall, and on November 1, 1917 her performance caught the eye of many leading composers. Known as a “sensitive purveyor of interesting, untried songs”, she gave renditions of three songs by Maurice Ravel. Her performance included the American premieres of Stravinsky’s Three Japanese Lyrics and Griffes’ Five Poems of Ancient China and Japan. The performance was a great success, and she began to receive invitations to perform premieres of songs by other contemporary composers.
She struggled to find a niche in the already crowded New York music scene, so she wisely chose to concentrate on ‘exotic’ Javanese songs and the modernist Western vocal repertoire. With the Boston-born exotic dancer Regina Jones Woody (1894– 1983), who danced under the name Nila Devi, she created a 15-minute act titled ‘Songmotion’ in which Woody illustrated Gauthier’s Indonesian songs in dance. At the end of October 1915 they left New York for a year-long tour of the main American vaudeville theatres.
The key concert in this narrative was in 1923. The first half consisted of classical works by Vincenzo Bellini and Henry Purcell, and modernist works by Arnold Schoenberg, Darius Milhaud, Béla Bartók, and Paul Hindemith. The second half of her performance would upset the musical establishment, however. She opened with Alexander’s Ragtime Band by Irving Berlin, then performed works by Jerome Kern and Walter Donaldson, and finally finished with three works by George Gershwin, the first time his works (I’ll Build a Stairway to Paradise, Innocent Ingénue Baby, and Swanee) would be performed by a classical singer in a concert.
Rhapsody in Blue - Paul Whiteman
“...she wisely chose to concentrate on 'exotic' Javanese songs and the modernist Western vocal repertoire.” Important figures in the audience included Paul Whiteman, who then commissioned Gershwin to write a composition for his orchestra. Rhapsody in Blue was the result, and it was premiered in 1924 at the Aeolian Hall by Paul Whiteman's Orchestra with Gershwin at the piano, as he had been the previous year for Èva Gauthier. Éva Gauthier was a pioneer and perhaps the first 'world music' singer. She did much to acquaint North Americans with the native culture of what was then the Dutch East Indies. Perhaps her most important contribution was to take jazz on to the concert stage thus gaining widespread public acceptance for this most creative of music genres.
The man who provided entrance into the world of Indonesian music for the vocalist was the Dutch composer and pianist Paul J. Seelig (1876–1945), who had sat in as Gautier's pianist when her local pianist failed to turn up. Brought up in Bandung, he had studied composition, conducting, and piano in Germany. In 1900, Paku Buwana X, the susuhunan (Sultan from 1893 to 1939) of the royal court of Surakarta (Solo), appointed Seelig as the conductor of the royal band, a position he held until 1908. During this time, Seelig documented the royal gamelan ensemble repertoire in Western notation. He also collected Malay songs from the repertoires of kroncong and
Gauthier travelled to Paris in 1920 at the behest of the Music League of America to arrange a tour of North America by Maurice Ravel. She struck up a friendship and professional correspondence not only with him, but also with Erik Satie. This led to more music being sent to her by various composers that she would premiere in concert.
“Jazz began to break into society last season. One pioneer was Èva Gauthier.” - Independent, 3rd January, 1925.
Additional information
Eva Gauthier with wayang golek figure
Aeolian Hall 1st November 1923 (w. George Gershwinn)
Matthew Isaac Cohen's Èva Gauthier, Java to Jazz (2006), available here www.jstor.org, is a very detailed and fascinating read. There are some 30+ Gauthier recordings on the internet. issue 167 Indonesia expat
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EXPAT LIFESTYLE THEN AND NOW Rosie Milne is a British expat living in Singapore. Olivia & Sophia is her third novel, available in paperback and eBook, published by Monsoon. Her first two novels were How To Change Your Life, and Holding the Baby. She is a regular contributor to the UK Telegraph and she runs www.asianbooksblog.com
Life Back Then
Author of Olivia & Sophia, Rosie Milne, explores what expat life was like 200 years ago. BY ROSIE MILNE
It’s not just ease of travel we take for granted today, but also ease of communication. Back then letters home took up to ten months to wend their way to England, and replies took up to another ten months to reach the East. Imagine a woman out here receiving the news her adult daughter had died, months after the event. That happened to Olivia – when she married Raffles she already had a daughter by an earlier relationship. Imagine a woman receiving a letter from her mother inquiring into the health of a child, after that child’s death. Four of Sophia’s five children died in Asia, and my novel imagines that she received just such a letter. How lucky we are to have Skype, email, Facebook, and the rest. And how fortunate we are that if we have five children, all five of them will in all probability survive to adulthood. Whereas back then fevers tore through infant bodies like tigers through chickens. How did women cope with the deaths of their children? For her part, Sophia relied on religion: a committed Christian, she regarded her children’s deaths as a lesson in faith from her merciful creator. Could you think like that? I couldn’t – though I had to pretend I could when I was imagining being Sophia.
My novel Olivia & Sophia explores the lives of two predecessors of modern trailing spouses. Olivia and Sophia both travelled from England eastward to Southeast Asia during the early 19th century, and when doing so must have been like travelling to the moon today. Each of them was a bold and admirable woman; they were respectively the first and second wives of Sir Thomas Stamford Raffles. He is remembered now as the founder of Singapore, but in his time he was the Governor of Java, and later, of Bencoolen, (Bengkulu) on Sumatra. Wherever Raffles went in the East, his current wife tagged along.
It wasn’t only children who dropped like flies. Europeans out here 200 years ago simply didn’t know how to deal with the climate or tropical diseases. People fell ill in the morning and were dead by the evening. So many people connected to Olivia and Sophia died, that I found myself cutting many deaths, to prevent there being a funeral on every page. But my poor subjects had to endure those frequent bereavements. How brave they were, and how lucky we are not to have to bury a friend, a child, or a spouse every other week.
For a start, there were the horrors of the voyage out, which could take anything from six to ten months. This was before sailing ships had stabilizers, and passengers were often prostrate with seasickness for much of the voyage. Imagine the lingering smell of vomit in damp clothes!
Sir Thomas Stamford Raffles
Except for the very rich, cabins were miserable, little dirty holes; dark, airless, and sometimes divided by nothing but slung canvas, making privacy impossible. In order to ensure supplies of fresh meat, milk, and eggs, animals and fowl had to be carried on the decks, adding to the general din and stink. And then there were the risks of shipwreck and pirates. Even the most nervous flier would surely admit that 15 hours cramped in economy from Heathrow to SoekarnoHatta must be better than what earlier expats endured.
Sophia, the first white woman to explore the interior of Sumatra, slogged up mountains and down waterfalls in full skirts – no hiking boots or breathable fabrics for her. How would she have managed washing and going to the loo? What about rations? She found herself living off rice and claret. And there were no maps, so the adventurous were in constant danger of getting lost. 14
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“This involved drinking salts of mercury, which made the breath stink, caused constipation, and made people drool like dogs.” Not to mention that modern Western medicines do not actively harm us, unlike the favoured treatment in Olivia and Sophia’s day: mercury. This involved drinking salts of mercury, which made the breath stink, caused constipation, and made people drool like dogs. Liver problems were particularly prevalent amongst Europeans out here, probably because of parasites, and because they all drank like fish, as the water was so bad. Olivia, who liked her cherry brandy, died of a liver complaint, after having suffered years of the mercury treatment.
Writing about Olivia and Sophia made me grateful to be an expat wife now, and not 200 years ago.
And what about travel within Asia? Bali-dwellers are probably accustomed to hopping to Lombok or the Gili Islands for the weekend. If you live in Jakarta, you probably think nothing of taking houseguests to Borobudur. But 200 years ago, Europeans were mostly confined in their colonies like rabbits in traps. Inland journeys were often by foot, through the clogging jungle.
A page from Sir Thomas Raffles' The History of Java, published in 1817. This print depicts a Javanese "dancing girl".
And what of pregnancy? Ladies, imagine having to deal with the tropical heat, in your full skirts and woollen underwear whilst you were the size of a house. And, yes, women out here believed it was healthy to wear wool next to the skin! Furthermore, there was no air conditioning, no deodorant, and no running water - nothing to make living with the heat more tolerable. And finally there was giving birth. Sophia had no painkillers for her first four children’s births, although possibly she had ether for the last one. Her first child was born on a ship: imagine the difficulties of dealing with nappies! Her second child was born on land, but also arrived whilst she was travelling with her husband, with no nurse on hand, no friends on whom she could call for help, and only a botanist to assist. Not that she complained; women were expected to be stalwart, and she was.
Raffles' first wife, Olivia Mariamne Devenish
So next time you’re tempted to grumble about your lot in life, just be grateful you’re an expat today, and not 200 years ago. Raffles' second wife, Sophia Hull, better known as Lady Sophia Raffles
EXPAT LIFESTYLE CARTOGRAPHY
The Mapping of Java The islands of Java and Bali located eight degrees south of the Equator in the Indian Ocean are two of the 17,000 islands that make up the Republic of Indonesia, the world’s largest archipelago and the fourth most populous nation on Earth. The archipelago is also home to the fabled Spice Islands of the Moluccas, the quest for which provided the major stimulus for the great voyages of discovery in the 15th and 16th centuries. To reach these small and remote islands, explorers and merchant adventurers would invariably call first at Java to replenish food and water supplies after the long haul across the Indian Ocean from the Cape of Good Hope, and to pick up local pilots to guide them through the maze of islands between Java and the Moluccas. Prior to the arrival of the European merchant adventurers and explorers in the region, Javanese merchants on the strategically located island of Java had traded spices and other tropical products with merchants from China, Japan, India, Persia and the countries of the Middle East for centuries. Documentary and archaeological evidence of trade between these countries and the medieval Majapahit Hindu empires of Java and Sumatra, and with the later Muslim Sultanates of the 15th and 16th century abounds. Java was well known to both Chinese and Indian chroniclers from the beginning of the millennium. Javanese ports such as Banten and Sunda Kelapa (modern-day Jakarta) , which commanded strategic trades routes between east and west through the Sunda Straits, were used by Hindu merchants as provisioning centres en route to China. It was only in the 16th century that maps of Java began to appear in European books on exploration and in atlases and collections of sea charts, since there was no tradition of map or chart making in the orient outside China. Even in China, mapping was
WORDS BY DAVID E. PARRY IMAGES BY BARTELEGALLERY.COM
David is a soil scientist and environmental specialist who has been living and working in Indonesia for 30 years. He is the author of The Cartography of the East Indian Islands and curator of Bartele Gallery.
confined to the interior of the country for purposes of taxation and military conquest. Despite the high degree of quantification on Chinese maps, the Chinese still believed in a flat Earth a millennium after the Greek geographer Ptolemy constructed his world map based on the concept of a spherical Earth and the obliquity of the elliptic. The initial attempts to map the island of Java were crude and generally showed an island of oval shape that was disproportionately broad and with a completely unknown southern coastline. This was not surprising given the inhospitable nature of the southern coast where the stormy Southern Ocean plunged to great depths in the Java Trench only a few kilometres offshore and where natural harbours were few and far between. A very famous early 17th century (1606) map of Southeast Asia and the Indonesian islands shows where Francis Drake (Dra. Appulit), the English seafarer and privateer (pirate), called into one of the few ports on the South Java Coast (Cilacap) in 1580 to resupply his ship, the ‘Golden Hind’, on his way back to Plymouth from his circumnavigation of the globe between 1578 and 1580. Drake became the first captain of an expedition of any nation to complete a circumnavigation of the world. The first circumnavigation took place between 1519 and 1521 with an expedition led by Ferdinand Magellan, a Portuguese navigator in the employment of the Spanish crown. Unfortunately, Magellan was killed in a skirmish on the island of Cebu in the Philippines in 1521 and his first officer, Jan Sebastian Del Cano assumed command. He and one ship, the Victoria, reached Spain with a surviving crew of 18, in September 1522, three years after the five-ship expedition set out thus completing the first circumnavigation of the world. Drake’s voyage was 56 years later.
Map of Bali by Benjamin Wright after W. Lodewijcksz.
1606 map of SE Asia and Indonesia by J. Hondius showing Drake's landfall at Cilacap in 1580
World Map by Claudius Ptolemy (AD 90–168) compiled pre-1470
Gerard van Keulen's magnificent 1728 map of Java
Abraham Ortelius’ iconic map of Southeast Asia first published in 1570 in Theatrum Orbis Terrarum, the world’s first uniformly sized atlas, shows Java as it was to appear until the early 17th century. This bloated shape with an effectively blank southern coast was repeated in regional and individual maps of the island until well into the 17th century. In contrast, the north coast facing the shallow Java Sea has numerous ports that have served as trade centres for centuries and hence the coastline was mapped to a reasonable degree of accuracy. However, it was not until the 1630s that the true shape of Java was depicted on the maps of Southeast Asia by Blaeu and Jansson, two great rivals in the atlas trade. Both Blaeu and Jansson depict a narrower, more proportioned and recognizable Java on their regional maps of Southeast Asia and Jansson went further and produced a large-scale map of the island in 1657 in his five-volume sea atlas Atlantis Majoris Quinta Pars Orbem Maritimum. Throughout the remainder of the 17th century and through to the 18th century, the mapping of Java improved, especially the portrayal of the southern coastline
culminating in one of the most beautiful, rare and sought-after maps of the island, Gerard van Keulen’s large scale map of west and east Java entitled Insulae Iavae Pars Occidentale and Pars Orientale, on two separate plates that were frequently joined to make one map of the island that was published in the early 18th century. A more well-known version of the same map with insets of Batavia and a coastal profile from the Roads of Batavia appeared in van Keulen’s Zee-Fakkel, Part V in 1728. In contrast to Java, the mapping of the adjacent island of Bali, Indonesia’s primary tourist location in the 21st century, remained stuck in the 16th century with a map of the island produced by William Lodewijcksz, a member of Cornelis de Houtman’s pioneering voyage to the East Indies in 1595-97. Later maps of Bali such as François Valentyn’s Kaart van Het Eyland Bali published in 1726 in Part II of Oud en Nieuw Oost-Indiën – his eightvolume history of the East Indies – contains little new cartographic information, but then Bali was still a Hindu kingdom and not a major part of the Dutch and Javanese trading empire. issue 167 Indonesia expat
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The 2016 UEFA European Championship Roga takes a look at predictions for the winning team and the top-scorer of the upcoming Euro 2016. BY ROGA SCHULT Z | IMAGES COURTESY OF UEFA .COM
T
he 2016 UEFA European Championship (Euro 2016) is held every four years, and this year will be the 15th edition of this competition. The very first edition took place in 1960, back when only four countries could qualify for the tournament. In 1980, the UEFA decided that not four, but eight countries were allowed to qualify for the European Championship. In 1996, UEFA discovered the commercial gains of holding such an event and decided to expand this to 16 teams. And now, for the first time in history, 24 teams will compete for the title. The decision to expand the number of teams again is due to the fact that UEFA is convinced that it gives smaller countries a chance to qualify, which will inspire them to develop and stimulate the game of football within these countries. True, but we all know that for an organization such as UEFA or FIFA, the words ‘development’ and ‘stimulation’ can easily be translated to commercial benefits or in other words cold hard cash. I can understand that not many people in Indonesia will stay awake to watch Slovakia, Albania or Northern Ireland. But give these nations a chance because, as history shows, Denmark shocked us all by winning the Euros in 1992, and Greece surprised everybody by winning in 2004. Funny fact: there is a 12-year pattern in play here, whereby an unexpected nation wins the title every 12 years. So, could 2016 be a year of another surprise during the Euros? Why not? After Leicester City’s fairytale this season (where they beat all the football giants in the Barclays Premier League and became the champions), this could serve as inspiration for some of the players and coaches in the Euros.
Place your bets, please
So, who are the candidates to win the Euro 2016? I think France has a strong squad and have the home advantage. They have already proven twice that when they host a tournament, they can win it. They were the hosts of
the Euros in 1984 and the World Cup in 1998, and at both events they were the proud winners. Speaking of patterns, they won the Euros in 1984 and 2000. When we follow this 16-year pattern, it should be their time again this year. But we always have to look out for the Germans. No matter which players they select for the tournament, they always make it to the finals somehow. Spain is going to try to set a record by winning the Euro 2016 three consecutive times – and I believe they have the qualities to do so. The fact there was a Champions League final between two teams from Madrid should be considered a warning. I know that there were nonSpanish players in the Champions League final, but take the Spanish players of the Champions League final out and add the Spanish players of FC Barcelona, Chelsea, Bayern Munich, Juventus and Manchester United, and you will have a candidate for the title. This year my money is going on Belgium. They have an extremely strong squad, even without their skipper Vincent Kompany, who unfortunately is injured. All the players have the perfect age to perform at their best this summer and I expect a lot from Eden Hazard. Last September I was with Euro legend Ruud Gullit in Jakarta. He told me that one of the main reasons that he won the Euro in 1988 with The Netherlands was Marco van Basten. Van Basten and Gullit were teammates at AC Milan and Van Basten was out with an injury during the season, but recovered right before the tournament. “Because of that, he was super fit and played a long and tough season with AC Milan before the start of the tournament. The fitness of Van Basten made a difference,” Ruud Gullit told me. Eden Hazard managed fewer minutes than he did the seasons before at Chelsea. Therefore I believe he will be one of the few world-class players to attend the Euros with a fully charged battery and will make the difference for Belgium.
Top scorer
The all-time top-scorer of the Euros is Frenchman Michel Platini. He has held this record since 1984 with nine goals! Wayne Rooney (England, five goals), Cristiano Ronaldo (Portugal, six goals) and Zlatan Ibrahimovic (Sweden, six goals) are the only active players in contention to break this record, however none of them have come close enough. I don’t think Wayne Rooney will break this record because Vardy and Kane will most likely start in front and Rooney will probably be used as a midfielder, or even worse, not even be included in the starting line-up. Ronaldo will be eager to break this record. He is able to break records and the title ‘all-time top-scorer’ of the Euros is a record that cannot be taken away from him by his Argentinean rival, Lionel Messi. But he played a lot of games this season and the latest was the Champions League final on May 28. So will he be fit enough to do the trick? That is why my money is on Sweden’s Zlatan Ibrahimovic; he has everything it takes to be a legend, and with the seasons he’s had at Paris Saint Germain, he’s already proven that he’s comfortable scoring goals on French territory. It will be his last masterpiece in the country where he scored a lot of goals for his former club, Paris Saint Germain. There is one big difference between Platini and the active players. Platini just needs one tournament to set this record. This is going to be Rooney’s third Euro tournament, and the fourth for Ronaldo and Zlatan. All-in-all, I think this tournament is going to be fun and full of surprises! Enjoy!
Roga is a former professional football player who played in Europe (The Netherlands, Portugal and England). Now he has his own production house that makes football-related productions for shows in Europe and Asia.
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EXPAT LIFESTYLE MEET THE EXPAT Karen Davis is a NYC artist and writer
Author and co-author of more than 20 books and numerous articles on Indonesian art, culture and history, Bruce W. Carpenter is considered a leading expert in the field of Indonesian studies. His publications include Willem G. Hofker, Painter of Bali (1994), W.O.J. Nieuwenkamp First European Artist in Bali (1997), Batak Sculpture (2007), Ethnic Art of Indonesia (2010), Gold Jewellery of the Indonesian Archipelago (2011), Nias Sculpture (2013), Lempad of Bali, the Illuminating Line (2014) and Indonesian Tribal Art (2015).
B RU CE W. C A R PE NTE R
Art Appreciation BY K AREN DAVIS
Can you tell us how and why you landed in Indonesia? My first Indonesian experience was at the New York World’s Fair in 1964. As an imaginative young boy I was mesmerized by the spectacular Indonesian pavilion, the construction of which had been personally overseen by Sukarno, the first president. I didn’t understand much but I knew I wanted to go there. That opportunity arose in the 1970s after university. Nobody had bothered to tell me that the purpose of going to school was to earn a living so I had studied oriental art and history. Unemployable and adventurous I headed to Amsterdam, where I had my second meeting with Indonesia at the Tropical Museum. As a second winter came around I decided to flee the northern climes and headed east based on tips provided by early travellers on the hippie trail that led to Bali, where I landed in 1975. Tell me about your early travels in the archipelago. After a sojourn in Thailand and Malaysia I took a boat to Medan and immediately headed up to Prapat on the shores of Lake Toba. I arrived on full moon night and was amazed to hear Batak singers belting out a variety of tunes that echoed across the waters in splendid harmony. In the following year I would voyage to Java, Bali, Borneo, Sulawesi, the Lesser Sundas and beyond. Bali was the penultimate sanctuary – a place of beauty, grace and rest. As thousands before, and millions after, I was smitten by the romance and fell head over heels. It is hard to believe that there was no electricity outside of Denpasar. Up until around 1994, communications with the outside world were abominable. How and why did you start writing? My grandfather who was a high professor at Cambridge University was a leading authority of Middle Eastern culture and languages. I much admired him and hoped to follow in his footsteps, although my career as a hippie took me off the usual track. My first book co-authored with Dr. Denny Thong and Stanley Krippner was about Balinese traditional healing. Stanley and I actually wrote an article on analyzing Balinese dreams that was published in the magazine Shaman’s Drum, which later included one of Robin Lim’s articles. Trained in art history I was aghast that so little was being published about Indonesian art and artists. I actually researched my book on W.O.J. Nieuwenkamp next, although it was published later. In the process I met Maria Hofker, the widow of Dutch artist, Willem. Friends of Rudolf Bonnet and Walter Spies, they had lived a remarkable life in Bali from 1938–1942, which abruptly and tragically ended with the Japanese invasion. She invited me to author a book on her husband. It was a great success. I would also like to believe it played a key role in the remarkable prices achieved by Hofker paintings today. With time I turned to my true love, Indonesian art, producing an average of one book every year or two.
“A people can achieve a modicum of prosperity but if you strip them of their history and art you have committed a wrong comparable to stealing their souls.”
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project manager and co-author – with five other noted experts – I would like to think of it as a gift to the Balinese people for all they have given me. What about your latest book – Indonesian Tribal Art? One of the most exciting developments in the last decade is the discovery that the history of art in Indonesia is far older than ever imagined. The best example is the discovery that prehistoric cave paintings in Sulawesi once thought to be 1,500 to 2,500 years old, are in fact 38,000 to 40,000 years of age. Not only is Indonesia – along with the Alta Mira and Lascaux caves – home to some of the earliest art in the world, this discovery is only the tip of the iceberg because thousands of cliff and cave paintings can be found throughout the archipelago. This and many other exciting discoveries are discussed in my latest book Indonesian Tribal Art, which also has a stimulating introduction written by the Joseph Campbell Foundation. How do you see contemporary Indonesian artists expressing modern issues while honouring their historical cultures? For a large part colonialism shattered the connection between ancient and profound art traditions and modern and contemporary art. Shockingly, numerous Indonesian artists believe that real art came from the West! One of the great challenges is to reconnect them with their own great tradition. The process has already begun but is often plagued by superficial flourishes – the random inclusion of wayang puppets or other traditional icons – that lack conviction and depth. Unfortunately, as everywhere, the art market here is driven by commercialism, and with a few exceptions is not interested in the broader implications of Indonesian art history and how it relates to contemporary art. Why is an awareness of the historical art and culture of Indonesia important to future generations? Indonesia’s greatest asset is its youth. Creativity abounds everywhere in spite of the dysfunctional nature of the political system and infrastructure. I trust they will find a way forward. One of my biggest complaints to young Indonesians is that they should begin appreciating, studying and writing about their own art, culture and history. What are your plans to continue sharing the history and art of Indonesia with the global community? Indonesia is one of the world’s greatest reservoirs of design and creativity. China may be able to mass-produce things cheaper but Indonesia brings another dimension that mirrors the souls of these remarkable people. One of my biggest apprehensions is the failure of many to understand that the tragedy of poverty is not limited to food, water and clothing alone but also to pride and identity. A people can achieve a modicum of prosperity but if you strip them of their history and art you have committed a wrong comparable to stealing their souls.
Lempad of Bali took many years to accomplish. What were some of the challenges inherent in the development of this massive and comprehensive tome on this master of traditional art? I visited Lempad during my first trip and eventually become a close friend of his eldest son, I Gusti Made Simung, who I, along with numerous other expatriates, considered a brilliant and humorous mentor of all things Balinese. All of us spoke of the need for a book and expected John Darling to accomplish this task.
Unfortunately, the amount of money made available for the preservation of culture is limited, often inconstant and distributed by those with definite cultural prejudices with the so-called ‘refined’ traditions getting the big money. There is also little sense of philanthropy in Indonesia; national and local museums receive limited funding and are viewed as boring and old fashioned. Private museums are inevitably vanity projects that often collapse because of unprofessional management, indifferent collections and lack of funding. The greatest museum in Bali founded in the 1930s is in Denpasar but is little known and in dire need of restoration and dynamic stewardship.
This early idea would only begin taking shape around 2006 at the time of the 50th anniversary of the Museum Puri Lukisan, when I was asked by Soemantri Widagdo to help with a large retrospective exhibition and catalogue. It took us years to track down hundreds of his paintings, which had been scattered around the world. As the art director,
Billions are spent on sports and other mass events but getting a grant to produce a book or study of a fast disappearing unique art form is a near impossible task. My hope is to stimulate appreciation and consciousness of the value of these fragile traditions, many of which have already disappeared.
EXPAT OUTREACH ART OF THE INDIES Richard Horstman first visited Ubud in 1986 and has spent over 23 years in Indonesia. Active in the art community as a journalist, art writer, consultant and other happenings behind the scenes, he is dedicated to raising the profile of contemporary art in Bali in the local, national and international spheres. Email him at lifeasartasia@gmail.com
KAMASAN
An Ancient Living Tradition BY RICHARD HORSTMAN
Imagine you are a master Balinese painter, and your King has recently commissioned you to do a piece of work. As you sit down in front of a large cloth stretched upon a wooden frame with a pencil in hand, for a moment you contemplate the composition before beginning to sketch. The year is 1723. What would go through your mind?
Possibly you hear the clash and bang of metallic instruments of a Balinese ensemble. You visualize the cloth in front as a giant screen, with an audience seated on the opposite side. And you imagine yourself as a dalang (master puppeteer) manipulating puppets while bringing to life a mighty Hindu epic during a wayang kulit shadow theatre play.
Origins The roots of the wayang puppet theatre, one of the original story-telling methods in the Balinese culture, may be traced back over 2,000 years to Indian traders who settled in Nusa Antara (Indonesia prior to being known as the Dutch East Indies), bringing with them their culture and Hindu religion. The wayang or classical style of Balinese painting is derived from the imagery that appears in this medium. The paintings were made on processed bark, cotton cloth and wood and were used to decorate temples, pavilions, and the houses of the aristocracy, especially during temple ceremonies and festivals. Originally the work of artisans from the East Javanese Majapahit Empire (13th–16th century), this style of painting expanded into Bali late in the 13th century and from the 16th to 20th centuries, the village of Kamasan, Klungkung, was the centre of classical Balinese art – and hence the Kamasan paintings. The original works were a communal creation; the master artist shaped the composition, sketching in the details and outlines, and apprentices added the colours. These works were never signed by an individual and considered a collective expression of values and gratitude from the village to the Divine. Colours were created from natural materials mixed with water; i.e. iron oxide stone for brown, calcium from bones for white, ochre oxide clay for yellow, indigo leaves for blue, carbon soot or ink for black. Enamel paint introduce by the Chinese a few hundred years ago was used on wooden panels of pavilions and shrines, or upon glass.
The Turning of Mount Mandara. Mangku Mura 1973, natural pigments on cloth. Photo by David Irons
Where to see Kamasan paintings in Bali: Museum Puri Lukisan Jalan Raya Ubud, Bali Tel: +62(0)361 971 159 Open: Daily 9am–5 pm ARMA Museum Jalan Raya Pengosekan, Ubud, Bali Tel: +62(0)361 975 742 Open: Daily 9am–5 pm Neka Museum Jalan Raya Sanggingan, Campuhan, Ubud, Bali Tel: +62(0)361 975 074 Open: Daily 9am–5 pm Nyoman Gunarsa Museum of Classical & Modern Art Jl. Pertigaan Banda No. 1, Takmung, Banjarangkan, Klungkung, Bali. Tel: +62(0)366 222 56 Open: Daily 10 am–5 pm
Divine and demonic The highly detailed, sacred narrative Kamasan paintings play an essential role within the Balinese culture functioning as a bridge communicating between two worlds: the material world humans inhabit and the immaterial world of the divine and demonic forces. The artist functions as a medium translating the esoteric and invisible into a comprehendible visual language and bringing greater understandings to the mysteries of life according to scriptures and philosophies. According to Dr. Adrian Vickers, Professor of Southeast Asian Studies at Sydney University, “The key to Kamasan painting’s sense of beauty is the beautiful flow of line and the pure flat figuration.” For foreign audiences, the paintings, however, present difficulties in their understanding. Without a concept of the landscape in Balinese paintings, it’s about an arrangement of items on a flat surface akin to the shadow puppets against the screen in shadow theatre. Unlike Western modern art where paintings generally have one focal point, there is no central focal point to read the Kamasan narratives. Most of the paintings have multiple stories that may be read in all areas around the composition. Looking at the painting, it is full of visual information to the extent that nothing stands out. Tight, generalized, often repetitive patterning, often of decorative motifs and
'Dharmaswami' Ida Bagus Gelgel, 1935, natural pigments on paper. Photo by David Irons
combinations of graphic patterns are distributed all across the surface leaving little or no blank areas. Ornamental elements, rocks, flowers motifs and painted borders indicate Indian and Chinese influence from Chinese porcelain and Indian textiles. “Adherence to established rules about the relative size of parts of figures related to measurements in the human body – in the Balinese perspective each measurement is seen as a human manifestation of elements that exist in the wider cosmos. Correctness of proportions is part of being in tune with the workings of divine forces in the world. Colours are also codified.” says Vickers in his book Balinese Art Paintings & Drawings of Bali 1800–2010. “Form evokes spirituality.”
The three realms The two dimensional Kamasan compositions generally depict three levels: the upper level is the realm of the Gods and the benevolent deities, the middle level occupied by kings and the aristocracy, and the lower third belongs to humans and demonic manifestations. Details in facial features, costumes, body size and skin colour indicate specific rank, figure or character type. Darker skin and big bodies are typical of ogres, light skin and finely portioned bodies are Gods and kings. Rules control the depiction of forms; there are three or four types of eyes, five or six different postures and headdresses. The position of the hands indicates questions and answers, command and obedience. The narratives are from the Hindu and Buddhist sacred texts of Javanese-Balinese folktales and romances: the Ramayana, Mahabharata, Sutasoma, Tantri, also from Panji. Astrological and earthquake charts are also depicted. Major mythological themes are rendered in great symmetry, while these paintings contain high moral standards and function to express honourable human virtues to society with the intent to encourage peace and harmony. A beautiful painting communicates balance, aesthetically and metaphorically, and is equated to the artist achieving union with the divine. Traditional Kamasan painting is not static and keeps evolving as subtle changes have occurred over time as each artist has their own style, composition and use of colour. It is common that new works regularly replace old and damaged ones and hence Kamasan painting is an authentic living Balinese tradition. issue 167 Indonesia expat
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EXPAT OUTREACH MEET THE EXPAT
M I CH A E L N I CH O L S O N
History
in the Making
Michael is an HR Consultant and Executive Coach, and founded the BritCham Toastmasters Club in Jakarta when he was on the Board of BritCham in 2004. In the same year, he joined the Indonesian Heritage Society, eventually coming on the board as Vice Chair Community, a position he filled for four years. He talks to us about why understanding one’s history and being able to speak eloquently in public are important to him.
BY ANGEL A RICHARDSON
“Learn from history so as not to make the same mistakes again.”
Michael (Mike) Nicholson at the Korean Art Festival in May 2016
What brought you over to Indonesia to begin with? Originally I came as a tourist in 1981. I had spent my high school years in Singapore, during the period of Konfrontasi with Malaysia and Britain against Indonesia and was fascinated to come and have a look at the other side of the fence. As my father and sister’s family live in Melbourne, I have no need to return to the UK or Germany other than for sightseeing. You used to be in the corporate world – what made you switch to coaching and consulting? When I returned to Indonesia in 2004 the Labour Law 13 had been introduced, which didn’t allow ‘bules’ to be employed as HR Managers or Directors. With only 35 years’ experience in HR since I left university and no opportunity to work in HR directly, I looked around and decided to make my fortune as an HR Consultant and Executive Coach. That gave me lots of flexibility to get involved in my other hobbies. What is the most important lesson you can teach one of your students? The fact that we are our own worst enemies. We have the ability to do much more with our lives – if we really want to, but we live life with the hand brake on. Let go and follow your dreams. What are the main objectives of Toastmasters? The British Toastmasters Club has multinational members – mostly Indonesians wanting to practice their already good English and gain public speaking and leadership skills. A not-for-profit organization, it was founded by Ralph Smedley in 1924 to provide speaking skills training. At the end of June 2015, there were more than 332,000 active Toastmasters in 15,540 clubs in 135 countries. In Indonesia we only have 91 clubs, of which 47 are in 20
Indonesia expat issue 167
I was the Editor of the Monthly Indonesian Heritage Society Magazine for a while, the co-chair for Study Groups and then joined the Board of Management as Vice Chair Community for about four years. The time I have spent with the IHS has been the most fulfilling time of my life. What interested you to join in this cultural organization? The fact that there are only 750 female and 50 male friends was not a deciding factor. I have always been interested in history and foreign culture. I was born in a suitcase and have never given it away. My mother was German, my 90-year-old father is British Australian and now lives in the Yarra Valley in Melbourne. During your time at IHS, can you share what you believe was your most notable work? Completing the three-month Indonesian Heritage Society training to become qualified as a Tour Guide at the National Museum. I have been a Volunteer Tour Guide since 2008 and have had the privilege to be selected to give tours to thousands of Indonesians and tourists including ambassadors to Indonesia, the wife of the Austrian president and 15 Austrian historians and museum directors, the wife of the Singapore president and ministers from Australia. You’re currently establishing a Young Heritage section for 18- to 28-year-olds. Tell us more about this. In my years as a tour guide I have noticed that many young Indonesian have a latent interest in Indonesian history and culture. It is amazing to see the flock of young Indonesians frequenting the museums and Fatahillah Square in Kota Tua. I hope to provide volunteer tour guide training for young Indonesians who cannot spare the time mid-week but are interested in being trained as tour guides to guide at weekends.
Jakarta. Most use English but Toastmasters is available in nine languages, and in Jakarta we have English, Bahasa, Mandarin and Japanese speaking clubs. Being born German, I would like to start a German language club sometime soon. French and Korean are also in the wings.
Can you tell us why you believe understanding one’s history and culture is important? As they say, learn from history so as not to make the same mistakes again. Studying the history and culture of different ethnic groups is really fascinating.
In addition to native speakers, who might want to improve their career prospects, there are also many Indonesians who would like to practice their foreign languages at low cost and acquire speaking and leadership skills at the same time.
What was the most memorable lecture or study group you attended? The most interesting study group I joined was learning about the activities and contribution of Alfred Russel Wallace to the Theory of Evolution and the Wallace Line in Indonesia. My degree was in Comparative Animal Physiology but my first job was in HR and I have never looked back. This was a little nostalgic.
How has Toastmasters helped its members in Jakarta? When I look back to some of the new Toastmasters I have known since 2004, it is really transformational to see how they have gained confidence and progressed. One Japanese lady has metamorphosed from being a very shy speaker to achieving Distinguished Toastmaster, the highest level available to Toastmasters, in about four years. The Toastmasters training are not lessons. We all learn by doing. Members work through the training manuals at their own speed, delivering speeches at meetings, where they are evaluated by their more experienced peers. Toastmasters is the ideal place to make mistakes from which to learn to be a proficient public speaker. How long were you the Vice Chairman of the Indonesian Heritage Society (IHS) and how did this opportunity come about? I joined the IHS in 2004 just after I arrived back in Indonesia for the third time. My first visit in 1981 was for two days as a tourist to Jakarta and a week in Bali before going back to finish off a four-year assignment in Abu Dhabi. Little did I know that I would be back to work in Kalimantan from 1982 to 1984 as the HR Manager for Bechtel constructing the PT Badak LNG plant in Bontang. That’s where I met my wife, Indrati. As they say the rest is history.
Are you still involved in IHS? Yes, I am still involved in The Indonesian Heritage Society and every year there is more to learn. For the last few Evening Lecture Series, which take place in Erasmus Huis twice each year, I have been the MC. Erasmus Huis has a very varied programme of outstanding exhibitions, lectures and entertainment. There is also an extensive library open to the public. What do you hope you will have achieved from your time in Indonesia? A much better understanding of the historical development in Indonesia. What is your favourite period in Indonesian history? The Majapahit Empire in the 12th and 13th centuries. To get in touch: michael.otto.nicholson@gmail.com For more information, visit www.toastmasters.org or www.heritagejkt.org.
Kenneth Yeung is a Jakarta-based editor
Car Trouble BY KENNE TH YEUNG
A failed singer exploited his minimal celebrity status by renting dozens of cars and then pawning them for quick cash.
Buying a car online or ‘winning’ one as a prize can be risky business in Indonesia, but even more risky is renting a hire car to a purported celebrity.
The perpetrator was Jajang R. Haris (28), a would-be celebrity who was a contestant on Kontes Dangdut Indonesia (KDI), a singing competition show that first aired on the TPI network and is now broadcast by MNCTV. Jajang appeared on the first season of KDI in 2004 and claimed to have reached the finals. But his singing career did not take off. Instead, he ended up working as an extra on soap operas and in films – a job that does not pay well for local actors in Indonesia. Six months ago, Jajang decided to supplement his income by scamming rental car dealers in Depok and Bogor, south of Jakarta. He and his two accomplices, Didi Ahmadi and Rizki, would rent cars and then pawn them for as little as Rp.5 million each. Jajang’s modus operandi was to approach rental owners and explain that he and his crew needed a couple of cars to travel to shooting sessions for movies and TV shows. He would show them YouTube clips of his performances, as well as some social media photos of his dubious celebrity status, as if this would make him more trustworthy. He was often able to rent cars without providing any form of collateral or guarantee. The gang ended up stealing 43 rental cars, including two belonging to a member of the Army’s Strategic Reserve Command (Kostrad). Depok Police began investigating Jajang after one rental owner, Farabi Anggriawan (30), on May 5 complained the singer had failed to return two cars which had been rented for Rp.3 million for 10 days. Jajang and Didi were arrested last week, but Rizki was still on the run. Police said most of the stolen cars were Toyota Avanzas and Daihatsu Xenias. As of last week, police had managed to recover 22 of the vehicles. On May 25, Jajang appeared at a police press conference. Wearing a balaclava and handcuffs, he tried to appear contrite, offering an apology to all victims and “anyone who feels aggrieved” by his actions. He said he pawned the cars to repay his debts and cover his living expenses. Police suspect the crooks may have been supporting a drug habit and will test them for narcotics. One of the rental owners was Sergeant Major Ponidi Wardoyo (51) of Kostrad. He said Jajang had rented an Avanza and a Toyota Etios from him in April. The rental money was initially paid for a few days, but the cars were not returned by the due date.
Ponidi visited the address Jajang had given him – a house in Leuwiliang, a small town near Bogor – but no one was there. The military man was grateful that police subsequently recovered his cars. He said he would quit the car rental business – and sell his five cars – because it was too stressful. Police said victims are welcome to reclaim their cars, provided they can show ownership and registration documents, as well as proof of identity. Jajang and Didi could face up to five years in jail for theft and fraud.
‘Just For Fun’ Be wary of online market places offering cars for prices that seem too good to be true. They may be stolen or non-existent.
“He often shopped online and thought it would be fun to see if he could swindle people.” bank transfer, with the remainder to be paid in instalments on delivery. The vehicle in question had originally – and legitimately – been offered for sale by Etopia Bintarti, a hospital worker. Upon discovering the advert had been hijacked, Etopia asked to meet Regha at the hospital to discuss business. When the conman arrived, he was arrested by police. Regha said he often shopped online and thought it would be fun to see if he could swindle people. “It was originally just for fun really. It was only one time,” he claimed.
Free Car, Not
recipient has won a free vehicle, which can be claimed by calling a telephone number. Upon calling the number, the “winner” will be asked to pay for vehicle registration costs, ownership papers, a processing fee and taxes, which can amount from Rp.5 million to Rp.20 million. Should you ever find such a prize coupon and you think it may be genuine, then call the company on its official customer service number and find out whether there really is a giveaway of cars or motorbikes. You could also consider passing the coupon on to police.
Regha Aprilian (25), a resident of the East Java capital of Surabaya, created a fake profile for himself on a vehicle sales website. He then copied and pasted an existing advert for a car, but replaced the contact number with his own number.
Another common swindle involves placing fake prize coupons for cars and motorcycles inside branded food and beverage products, such as instant noodles, processed snacks, sugar-filled energy drinks and instant coffee.
Last November, police in Semarang, Central Java, busted a syndicate that had been producing fake prize coupons that had been inserted into packaged foods. In addition to fake company logos, the coupons also featured a police stamp, a notary’s stamp and a government stamp.
Posing as the original vendor’s brother, he offered the car for Rp.65 million and soon had a buyer. The man paid a deposit of Rp.2 million in cash and Rp.9 million via
The authentic-looking coupons have the logo of a big-name company, such as Bimoli, Indofood, Wings Food, Tora Bika and many others. The coupons declare the
Police said the group, which had seven members, earned about Rp.300 million to Rp.600 million per month from people who thought they had won “free” vehicles. issue 167 Indonesia expat
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EXPAT OUTREACH WORTHY CAUSES
Pratama describes. Through Dongeng Untuk Nala, Pratama wishes people will restore their hopes, dreams and sense of humanity, just like the name ‘Nala’ that translates to ‘heart’ in Javanese.
TE ATE R SATU
Redefining Indonesian Theatre
Since 2008, Teater Satu has partnered with Hivos, an international organization that houses various programmes from all around the globe in order to address issues that take place in the respective countries, such as women’s empowerment, sexual rights and diversity, freedom of expression and sustainable food. With Teater Satu, the two have been working together in a programme called Sumatera Cultural Network and Movement to preserve local cultural heritage.
The arrival of Teater Satu has reoriented the focus of Indonesian theatre which was before considered too ‘Java-centric’. Originating from Bandar Lampung in Sumatra, the group has led the way for theatre communities across the nation through performances that foster social change. BY CAR ANISSA DJATMIKO
“Theatre is a way of life, a pathway that should be crossed by the people towards a better life,” suggested founder and director of Teater Satu, Iswadi Pratama. Sadly, not many theatre groups in Indonesia live by this philosophy.
Through this programme, Teater Satu develops and modifies Bandar Lampung’s traditional theatre known as ‘Warahan’, which combines dance, literature, music, and local tales. By introducing Warahan, Pratama hopes to deliver performances that will engage the public regardless of their status or background.
Death and the Maiden (Ariel Dorfman)
When Pratama and his wife Imas Sobariah first built Teater Satu in 1996, they struggled with the reality that most theatre groups were not even aware of the significant role they play in stimulating new ideas, as well as the formation of an open society. At the time, numerous theatre groups in Bandar Lampung tended to passively take on their directors’ lead instead of seeking out alternative ways to facilitate social transformation.
The fact that Teater Satu endeavours to promote Lampung’s traditions is crucial to the history of Indonesian theatre. As it turns out, most of the major theatre groups in the country originate from Java, ever since the establishment of Akademi Teater Nasional Indonesia (ATNI) or The National Theatre Academy of Indonesia in 1955 by Usmar Ismail and Asrul Sani. Then, ATNI was the first modern theatre academy in Southesast Asia, which participated in the rise of more modern theatre groups and institutions in Indonesia, such as Teater Populer (Bandung), Studiklub Teater Bandung (Bandung) and Akademi Seni Drama dan Film (Jogjakarta) – all of which are from Java. Fortunately, the emergence of Teater Satu has paved the way for groups outside of the island to sign their names on the world’s theatre stage.
Dongeng Untuk Nala
Further, both founders were confronted with a greater challenge as the majority of theatre groups in the country have yet to account for the non-artistic aspects of running an arts organization, such as the need to have strong management and basing their creative process on research. In turn, the work produced by Indonesian theatre today remains stagnant:
Visa (Goenawan Mohamad)
Aside from their bid to transform the nation and its people, Teater Satu has also succeeded in altering the lives of its own 20 members, who have gone from having no prior experience in theatre to becoming professional artists. Gandi Maulana, for instance, revealed that his journey in Teater Satu has earned him the opportunity of becoming both an actor as well as a schoolteacher. Others who take on jobs in the arts sector work as management staff, directors, and even lighting designers.
“Not many theatre artists have the courage to turn their attention to the managerial side [of running a theatre]. Meanwhile, from the artistic side, there are only few theatre groups that bring more progressive ideas to the table,” Pratama lamented. Concerned by this reality, Teater Satu works to refine the nature of the arts in Indonesia by regularly organizing workshops that develop artists’ skills in ranging fields like acting, directing, leadership, journalism, and management. They realize that most theatre groups in Indonesia learn in a self-directed manner and are lacking reference points, so these workshops are consequently held to help artists better navigate their own ways and enhance their talents holistically.
But more importantly, these people learn the values of the learning process that they may not have obtained from other formal institutions:
And from a social viewpoint, Teater Satu believes that every performance needs to fulfil the purpose of inspiring change:
relevant to the context of Indonesia’s political struggle. The original script, written by Chilean playwright Ariel Dorfman, describes a particular socio-political period under a dictator’s reign in Chile. Under his reinterpretation of the play, Pratama attempted to capture the fall of former President Suharto’s reign of 32 years in Indonesia – with a touch of humour and suspense that allowed the audience to relate and reflect on the performance personally.
“If theatres take issues that are relevant to society, then they will remain an integral part of social transformation that can help encourage a move towards a more egalitarian society,” Pratama said.
At present, the group is also planning an upcoming production called Dongeng Untuk Nala (The Tale for Nala), which projects a life where humans have further strayed from their own morals:
By committing itself to realizing social change, Teater Satu has not only made its mark in the history of Indonesian theatre, but will certainly leave a permanent one for many years to come. Brace yourself Indonesia, the new future of theatre has finally arrived.
One of their shows, Death and the Maiden, which won ‘Best Theatre Performance’ according to Tempo magazine in 2013, managed to take a particular issue that was
“Human’s alienation from their own values makes them existentially lonely and hollow. They become brutal, greedy, intolerant, and are losing their grip on moral values,”
Dua Tangan Cukup
“Teater Satu has taught me that learning is about knowing when to use your mind, body and feelings in the right time. They cannot be mixed altogether,” Aliman Surya said, who recently graduated from a dance school.
For more information, please visit www.teatersatu.org or their Facebook page, Teater Satu Lampung.
Actions From Across The Archipelago
Indonesians sign petition to save animals at Bandung Zoo In recent weeks, Indonesia has faced yet another case of an animal death in a zoo. This time, the country witnessed the heartbreaking scene of a 34-year-old elephant shedding tears while dying in Bandung Zoo. Indeed, zookeepers insisted that they had done everything they possibly could to save Yani, the elephant, like providing her with medicine and consulting vets. Regardless, an investigation is underway to discover the real cause of her death, especially when it has been reported that a resident vet has been absent in the zoo for nearly a year.
To show your support, sign the petition at www.change.org/p/selamatkan-kebun-binatang-bandung
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Indonesia expat issue 167
Yani’s death sparked criticism from animal activists, government officials and society in general. In the elephant’s last days, Bandung Mayor Ridwan Kamil paid a visit to see her and later suggested that if the zoo had no money to provide the required care for animals, then they should seek support.
The people have also begun to sound off on the matter by signing the petition SaveBandungZoo Project. With currently over 20,000 followers, these people are calling on the zoo and the government to restore the zoo’s conditions for the sake of the animals. On their petition page, the SaveBandungZoo Project reveals that the Bandung zoo has failed to fulfil its function not only in animal conservation, but also as an education and research facility, and a tourist site. As a result, animals in the zoo appear to be unhealthy and mistreated. For that reason, followers of the page are working towards rescuing and helping to rebuild the zoo. “Through this petition, we will encourage the government and the owner of Bandung Zoo to pay more attention to the zoo’s condition so that it will be immediately sorted out. Let’s repair Bandung Zoo together.”
Shangri-La Jakarta welcomes the Muslim holy month Jakarta To welcome the Muslim holy month of Ramadhan, SATOO at the Shangri-La Hotel Jakarta will bring around-the-world cuisine with extensive Indonesian culinary creations that will take guests on a sumptuous spice journey through the Ramadhan iftar feast, starting on June 6. Guests can enjoy a tantalizing ‘break the fast’ buffet experience with options of Indonesian signature dishes and European specialties. Selections of high-quality teas and coffees will also be available for guests to savour to break their fasts. Lobby Lounge prepares exclusive Ramadhan tea sets complete with sweet and savoury finger food perfect for those looking for an elegant ambiance and light bites prior to a heavy and fulfilling meal. To share the holy month’s blessings, SATOO Deli Ramadhan hampers will make the perfect presents for family members, friends and business colleagues. These delicacies will be available to order as a perfect gesture of appreciation and to embrace this festivity.
Primary school of ACG School presents a musical extravaganza
Indonesian and Italian architects propose housing solutions for European refugee crisis Jakarta On May 17, the Embassy of Italy and the Italian Institute of Culture Jakarta held the opening of The Indonesian Creativity through the Triennial of Milan 2016 and the Venice Architecture Biennale 2016. This exhibition showcased the works of 23 Indonesian architects, along with Abie Abdillah, Alvin Tjitrowirjo, Budi Pradono and Cosmas Gozali. In the exhibition, architects displayed ideas for new housing complexes for the current European migrant crisis as an overwhelming number of refugees make journeys to the European Union (EU) for sanctuary. Architects designed housing complexes intended to house, care for and teach refugees new skills and cultures in order to ready them for a new, independently sustainable life. Furthermore, similar themes of self-sustaining housing, a diverse range of native local and sustainable future living situations were displayed in the proposed designs.
Jakarta The Four Seasons Hotel Jakarta is set to debut in late June at an all-new location; a centrepiece 20-storey tower situated within the awardwinning Capital Place development. Prominently located in the heart of Jakarta’s international commerce, entertainment and financial district, Capital Place heralds a new era of luxury for conducting business in the city by seamlessly melding premium grade office space with luxurious facilities and services synonymous with the Four Seasons brand, all presented within one iconic landmark on Jalan Gatot Subroto. “The highly anticipated opening of Four Seasons Hotel Jakarta marks the return of Four Seasons to the Indonesian capital, a vibrant city that is one of the region’s fastest growing business hubs,” said J. Allen Smith, President and Chief Executive Officer of Four Seasons Hotels and Resorts. “Our new location, within the cutting-edge, Capital Place development, speaks to the strength of our partnership with The Rajawali Group and our shared commitment to excellence.”
Jakarta For the ACG School Jakarta, it was a night of mystery and mischief during a primary school production of Ali Baba and the Bongo Bandits on May 18. Performed by students in year three to year six, the production unfolded into a musical tale of hero Ali Baba as he defeats the ruthless Bongo and his bandits in order to find the missing princess and the Royal Ruby, whilst attempting to escape the clutches of the Sultan’s evil Vizier.
Four Seasons Hotel Jakarta and Capital Place officially open for business
While this was the first production performed by ACG primary school students, director Darren Aitchison hopes to annually implement a musical theatre production as an extracurricular activity, with voluntary participation open to all students in elibigle years.
When it opens this summer, Four Seasons Hotel Jakarta will build on the company’s rich 20-year history in Jakarta with the introduction of a striking new, all-suite luxury hotel. Designed by New York-based Interior Designer Alexandra Champalimaud, a member of the Interior Design Hall of Fame, the 125 spacious, neo-classical-inspired suites offer relaxed glamour.
Football lovers in Jakarta to enjoy the UEFA European Championship Surabaya The UEFA European Championship gets every football lover’s heart beating faster with a full month of action when 24 teams will battle it out in 50 matches. Generally the quality of matches is of a higher standard than at the World Cup, so get ready for the best footy tournament around. Can Spain as two-time defending champion clinch the cup for a third time, or is it going to be one of the many outsiders? Can the stars that you have seen shine for their clubs also do it for their countries? Which new talents will rise to fame? For sure each match will be closely contested! Matches kick off at 8pm, 11pm and 2am (WIB) and what better place to watch than at Cazbar in Mega Kuningan, Central Jakarta, and Eastern Promise in Kemang, South Jakarta. Both popular bars and restaurants have a reputation of being Championship and World Cup hot spots with a buzzing atmosphere. Most matches are broadcasted live on large screens and are shown in dedicated sports sections.
Watching at home is boring! Both bars are cosy and informal with lots of atmosphere, so the fun is not limited to match hours but starts from early ‘til late. Grab a cold one and some food, chat with your mates, get settled, watch the band (on most nights) and make the most of your bar visit!
Check out the bar’s Facebook pages for latest sports schedules and promotions: www.facebook.com/epromise www.facebook.com/TheCazBarJakarta Eastern Promise: +62(0)2171790151 Cazbar: +62(0)215764582 issue 167 Indonesia expat
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* Answers in the next edition!
CROSSWORD Across
1. Whether you like it or not (5-5) 7. US state (7) 8. Musical instrument – pancreas, perhaps (5) 10. Part of the foot (4) 11. Shining beetle (4-4) 13. Stumps and bails construction success for a bowler (6) 15. Blood vessel such as the aorta (6) 17. Nazi symbol (somewhat resembling this crossword grid!) (8) 18. Notion (4) 21. Agent for making bread (5) 22. Hire car (7) 23. Dawdle (5-5)
DOWN
1. Tapering object pushed into gap – gold club (5) 2. Page – part of a plant (4) 3. Every tenth of a decade (6) 4. Items made of the element with symbol Fe (8) 5. Ear (slang) (7) 6. Ineffectual (5-5) 9. Ineffectual (5-5) 12. Non-drinking (8) 14. Indian bread (7) 16. Moved on ice (6) 19. Territory of a nobleman – Cornwall, for instance (5) 20. Jump executed on ice (4)
ANSWERS OF ISSUE 166 ACROSS—5. Rattlesnake 7. Acid 8. Modulate 9. Parsley 11. Diary 13. Ideal 14. Boudoir 16. Woodwork 17. Clam 18. Life peerage DOWN—1. Stud 2. Plummet 3. Aside 4. Jailbird 5. Rock and roll 6. Exterminate 10. Standoff 12. Cockney 15. Poppy 17. Crab
Just another white guy t-shirt company. Spotted by Dave on Jl. Kaliurang in Jogjakarta Send your funny pictures to letters@indonesiaexpat.biz
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Indonesia expat issue 167
issue 167 Indonesia expat
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If you want your event to be posted here, please contact +62 (0) 21 2965 7821 or e-mail: events@indonesiaexpat.biz
EVENTS
JAKARTA Arts & Culture
around the globe. Racers will get to experience running like never before with a dose of fun, interactivity, and also paint. For more information please visit http://stage.thecolorrun.co.id/
theatre group She She Pop from Germany, and composer Lukas Ligeti from Austria. For more information please visit www. salihara.org
Nationwide
Permata Photojournalism Exhibition 11 May–4 June 2016 The Permata Photo Journalist Grant and the Erasmus Huis Fellowship to Amsterdam is a prog r a m me de sig ne d for Indonesian photojournalists with hopes of developing their talents and skills, as well as providing them with a learning environment where their works can contribute more to society. The exhibition will showcase photojournalists’ works before the winner gets selected by Kadir van Lohuizen, co -founder of NOOR Photo Agency and Supervisory Board Member at World Press Photo Foundation, the Netherlands. The lucky winner will get to work with Kadir van Lohuizen in making a photo story. Visit the exhibition to see who shall win at Erasmus Huis. For more information, please visit http://erasmushuis. nlmission.org/
Film Screening: Tabula Rasa 7 June 2016 A r thouse Cinema w ill be screening the film Tabula Rasa. Directed by Adriyanto Dewo, the film tells the story of 19-year-old Hans who decides to leave his orphanage for Jakarta with the hopes of becoming a professional football player. Along the way, he faces challenges which further hinder him from reaching his dreams. The movie will be in Bahasa but English subtitles will be provided. Entrance is free of charge and visitors can just walk in for the screening without making a reservation. Film screening will take place at Goethe Institut. For more information please visit www. goethe.de
Salihara International Performing Arts Festival 8 October–6 November 2016 Salihara International Per forming A r ts Festival is back to bring you more local and international arts groups form various areas including music, dance and theatre. This year, the festival will be showcasing 14-15 groups from the nation, as well as Australia and the United States. Among the talents featured, three percussion groups will be highlighting the music section; Indonesian choreographers Eko Supriyanto and Fitri Setyaningsih will be taking the lead in the dance section; and the Kalanari Theatre Movement f rom Jog ja kar ta will be taking the theatre stage. International groups include the dance group Benoît Lachambre & Montréal Danse from Canada,
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International Day of Yoga 18 June 2016 Come and celebrate the I nt e r n a t ion a l D ay o f Yo g a where health enthusiasts will benefit from getting the ultimate yoga experience directly from experts. Learn new poses and enjoy a healthy morning under the guidance of Indonesian yoga teachers, and follow the lead of Indian yoga masters. The event will take place at Gelora Bung Karno and starts at 6 am. The International Day of Yoga is presented by the Indian Embassy and will also be held in other places around Indonesia like Bali, Timor Leste, Medan and Jogjakarta. For more information please visit www.indianembassyjakarta.com Comedy Club 4 June 2016 On June 4th at Eastern Promise, Jakarta Comedy Club presents the first Expat Roast and Open Mic contest! First up for a goodnatured grilling is The USA. Join the fun as Indonesian comedians let us know how they and the world perceive Americans with tongue firmly in cheek! FREE w ith reser vations, Rp50k at the door. The event starts at 7 pm. Reserve/Register for Open Mic: +62(0)82111943084 info@ jakartacomedy.club.com Music
Selena Gomez Revival Tour 23 July 2016 Singer and actress Selena Gomez is coming to Jakarta this year to promote her second solo album Revival, which has made it to the top of the Billboard 200 chart last year. This will mark Gomez’ first concert in Indonesia. Gomez started her career in film, television and music at a young age. Fast forward to 2016, she has sold more than 45 million tracks with hit singles like Come & Get It, Good for You and Same Old L ove. G omez w ill g reet fans in Indonesia Convention Exhibition (ICE), BSD, Tangerang. Tickets are now on sale. For more information please visit http:// selenagomezjakarta.com We The Fest 2016 13–14 August 2016 The annual summer music festival We The Fest is back this year,
bringing you bigger international talents. The festival, which also include arts, fashion and food, will entertain music fans with their most exciting line-up so far. Fans will be able to watch music sensations like Macklemore & Ryan Lewis, Mark Ronson, The Temper Trap, and the 1975. The two-day event will be held at Parkir Timur Senayan and is presented by Ismaya Live. Tickets are available both online and off line, with price starting from Rp.720,000. For more information please visit http:// wethefest.com Leisure
Bambino Preschool Summer Camp 27–29 July 2016 Join us for an exciting summer c a mp a longside specia lized a f t er noon cla sse s. Pa rent s, prepare your kids for a learning journey at Bambino international P re school w it h nu merous a c tiv ities that w ill tr uly be memorable for your children. Th roug h t h is yea r's t heme, ‘Funtastic Future Me’ the summer school will give children a chance to think about what they might want to do when they grow up, which helps to motivate them and encourage their imaginations. Even something as simple as a walk around school can open their eyes to all of the jobs there are in a school. The Summer Camp is only available at Patra Kuningan campus, Jl. Jaya Mandala No. 88, Patra Kuningan, South Jakarta. For reservations and inquiries feel free to call or email 021-837-83783 bambino@bambinopreschool. com or visit our website at www. bambinopreschool.com Health
The Color Run by CIMB Niaga 7 August 2016 CIMB Niaga is holding The Color Run this year to promote a healthy lifestyle. Founded in March 2011, the event invites people to join this paint race which so far has been hosted in over 200 cities and 40 countries every year all
Festival Printemps Français 2016 28 April–11 June 2016 This year, Printemps Français is back for its 12th time as one of the most anticipated art festivals in Indonesia. Printemps Français is held by the French Institute, together w ith the French Ambassador in Indonesia as a way of introducing the diversity of F r enc h c u lt u r e t h r oug h performances and visual arts. The festival is also a cultural platform which allows both French and Indonesian artists to interact through collaboration projects. This year, puppet theatre group Les Rémouleurs will be opening the festival in Jog jakarta by presenting their collaboration project with Indonesian artists L’ O i s e a u o r T h e B i r d . I n Surabaya, the Trielen Ensemble will be collaborating with The String Orchestra. There will be more activities and exhibitions for guests to partake in, like photography, architecture, dance, literature, and jazz music. The festival will take part in Jakarta, Bali, Balikpapan, Bandung, Ma k a ssa r, Ma la ng, Meda n, Semarang and Surabaya. For more information, please visit www.ifi-id.com/printemps Conference
Grand Leadership Seminar with John Maxwell 22 July 2016 Join the Gra nd L ea dership Seminar with John Maxwell to discover new perspectives of learning leadership from John Ma xwell. The speaker, coach, who is also a New York bestselling author is named one of the world’s most inf luential leader experts by Business Insider and Inc. Magazine. In 2014, John C. Maxwell was named as the popular leadership and management expert in the world. The seminar will take place at The Kasablanka Exhibition. For ticket purchase please visit www. kiostix.com
other attendees by exchanging referrals and introducing them to their target audience. JBN is all about helping you grow your business. Promote your business, personal brand or portfolio each week to the rest of the attendees and explain to the group the type of referrals you would like to receive. JBN professional networking sessions are from 7-8.30am every Tuesday at Sapori Deli, Fairmont Jakarta, and Thursday at Mercantile Athletic Club, WTC, Sudirman. RSVP: info@jbnetworkers.com
JAVA Photography
JAVA Photography Tour 16–23 June 2016 Join professional photographers, David Metcalf and Mark Rayner on a fa nt a st ic phot og raphy workshop and tour of Java where you will meet the wild horsemen of Mt. Bromo, explore Yogyakarta and Borobudur and attend the Ramayana ballet. Next it’s onto Malang, where you stay at the Tug u, one of most beautiful historic hotels in Indonesia and a photography project in its own right. You will travel by jeep to Mt. Semeru (Java’s highest peak) for a sunrise shoot, visit the charming Tengger villages, explore the Dieng Plateau and enjoy another historic Tug u hotel stay in Blitar, plus and a few surprises along the way. An experience not to be missed with one-on-one personalized phot og raphy t uit ion. w w w. davidmetcalfphotography.com/ java-photo-tour/
Networking Jakarta Business Networkers Make the right connections to help develop and grow your business over bre a k fa s t . At Ja k a r t a Business Networkers (JBN), all attendees are encouraged to help
Mount Bromo 2-Day Photo Tour 10–11 June 2016 Join a two-day photo tour with Melbourne the Photographer to develop your skills and talents in
photography in one of the most majestic mountains in Indonesia, Mount Bromo. Grow your skills while traversing the beautiful landmarks of the mountain, decorated with craters, sea of sand and stunning view from the top. Melbourne is a commercial photographer who normally hold photo tours across Asia with countries like China, India and Cambodia. In addition, he also train both amateurs and experts, and will be guiding you all the way on this two-day photo tour in Mount Bromo, East Java. For more information please visit www.melbournethephotographer. com
SURABAYA & BANDUNG Music
Boyz II Men Live Indonesia 17–18 August 2016 Indonesia fans of the vocal group Boyz II Men will rejoice as the trio will be visiting for their ‘Boyz II Men Indonesia Tour 2016’. In August, Shawn Stockman, Nathan Morris and Wanya Morris will be taking over two stages in the country, one in Surabaya on August 17 and one the next day in Bandung. The four-time Grammy winning group has been known for making R&B music with hit singles like ‘I’ll Make Love to You’, ‘End of the Road’, and ‘One Sweet Day’. In Surabaya, the event will take place at Dyandra Convention Center, and the next day at Eldorado stage in Bandung. T ic k e t s pr ic e r a ng e s f r om Rp.250,000 – Rp.2,000,000. Tickets are available at http:// tiketapasaja.com/event/boyz-iimen-indonesian-tour-bandung
BALI Arts & Culture
Ubud Village Jazz Festival 2016 12–13 August 2016 Ubud Village Jazz Festival is back for its fourth time this year to bring you the best talents in jazz music. The festival is held to assemble both local and international jazz ar tists to promote ‘Jazz education in Indonesia’. To raise the awareness, Ubud Village Jazz Festival invites volunteers who come from various backgrounds in art, media, v ideo, design, music and culinary. Indonesia’s top jazz musicians headlining this year include Margie Segers, Oele Pattiselano, Glen Dauna who will be bringing his sons Rega and Indra (The Daunas), Jeffrey Tahalele, and Arief Setiadi. World class bass player Reuben Rogers will also be performing with jazz guitarist Peter Bernstein. Guests joining the two-day festival will enjoy the culinary experience with 26 different booths. For tickets and more information please visit www.ubudvillagejazzfestival.com
INDONESIA EXPAT DIRECTORY
INDONESIA EXPAT DIRECTORY
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INDONESIA EXPAT DIRECTORY
SERVICED OFFICE • VIRTUAL OFFICE • MEETING FACILITIES • COMPANY INCORPORATION Located in Kuningan Business District, integrated with shopping Mall and residential enable you for a more convenient and easier way of doing business in Jakarta. With flexible lease terms, ready to use office suites, immediate office setup, daily receptionist and maintenance services, 88 Service Office leaves you free to run your business without the day to day hassles of managing a conventional office space. "At 88 Service Office, we enable you to focus on your core business with friendly professionalism and affordable flexibility"
Jl Raya Casablanca Kav 88 Phone: 021-29631688 E-mail: sales@88office.co.id Web: www.88office.co.id
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TO BOOK SPACE ON THIS DIRECTORY PAGE CALL: 021 2965 7821
issue 167 Indonesia expat
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HAVE SOMETHING TO SELL? Looking for something to buy? Looking for staff? Selling property? Or need a place to live? Why not place your classified ad with Indonesia Expat! Your classified will be placed once for 2 weeks online and once in our printed version which has a circulation of 16.500 copies bi-weekly.
Next deadline: 8 June 2016 CONDITIONS Personal classifieds Commercial classifieds
Free of Charge (50 words max) Rp. 100,000 (0–50 words) Rp. 200,000 (50–100 words)
Property listings are considered as Commercial. Adding an image incurs an extra charge of Rp.150,000. Business Listings can only be placed on the Business Listings page (p.30) Send in your classifieds to ads@indonesiaexpat.biz
JAKARTA Automotive
Car for Sale! Ford Everest XLT 2.5 Turbo Diesel, auto, white, original 85,000 Km, Expat owned, Gforce Shock absorbers, 4 chrome alloy wide rims, TV, split DVD system, Split AC, Special Turbo Computer chip for power efficiency, Leather, Incl original 4+2 Spare new tyres, Urgent Sale: Rp.170 Milio Ph: +62(0)81281042638 For Sa le: Toyot a A L L N E W Avanza (mileage: 23,000km) 2012 – excellent condition; Type E w ith several extra features typical for the G class (e.g. metallic silver, audio/video, aluminium rims). No damages/accidents – scratches always immediately and professionally repaired & regular serviced (Auto2000), Location: Bogor A sking Price: Rp. 135 million (obo; must sell by June; cash only). Contact Carsten Thoms - cathoms@web.de Av a i l a ble C a r s For r e nt: Ho n d a Mo b i l i o A u t o m a t i c 2013 week ly Rp.1,750,000 & monthly Rp.5,750,000. Toyota Yaris Automatic 2012 weekly Rp.1, 500,000 & monthly Rp.5,500,000. Avanza Veloz Automatic 2015 week ly Rp.2,000,000 & monthly Rp.6,000,000. Please contact jjanuarty@gmail.com or +62(0) 81311177732/+62(0)87878797657 Jobs Available Jenja Jakarta Asistant Marketing: Providing onsite support and a ssist a nce to the ma rketing team that is located in Bali. Responsible for but not exclusively to branding: Social media, website, clientele portfolio, promotional material/ crative and marketing a d m i n i s t r a t i o n s/ A DHO C . Minimum 1 year experience, Fluent English, con f idence, organisational skills, commercial awareness, adaptability, creativity, good team working skills, good communication skills, IT skills. Please send your CV and Current Photo To: loker.jenjabali@gmail. com
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Indonesia expat issue 167
Pa r t-time Pr ima r y Teacher Position (EXPAT) – Bintaro, Ta n g e r a n g . J o i n a w e l l established IB World School: • Native speaker of English (UK, US, CDN, Aussie, NZ) preferred • 5 Years Teaching experience, IB PYP preferred • Team-player, flexible, creative • A deg ree in E duc at ion is required for a Work Permit Please send your application and updated resume with recent photo to hrd@globaljaya.com English Editor for Indonesian to English Fantasy Game Project [GIDEN]. Andovar is seeking native English editor for our fantasy game project which is translated from Indonesian into English and word count is approx. 100,000 source Indonesian words. Project is to start in the last week of May and continue for 4 weeks. Requirements: • Be a native English speaker. • Related experience in game terminology with fantasy style is an advantage. • Willing to take a paid editing test. Interested parties should email a detailed CV to freelance@ andovar.com with [GIDEN] in the subject line.
adult & International school students (igcse level). Contact Novi: +62(0)816704370
F u l l T i m e a n d Pa r t T i m e vacancies are now available for experienced English language instructors for corporate courses around Jakarta. Competitive rates and travel allowance are offered. Please send your CV to: recruitment.kpiconsultancy@ gmail.com
Explore the Thousand Islands! English speaking host, tailored day or weekend itinerary suited for fishing, sightseeing or water sports activities on a privately ow ne d y a c ht . C a l l B en on +62(0)87885228039
Intern wanted for Post Production company in Kemang. Requirement: -Female foreigner 18-25 yrs -English language -Basic computer skill -Flexible working hours Send cv and foto to stevesurja@ yahoo.com
Bahasa Indonesia Tutor available for foreign beginners. Affordable lesson fees. After office hours available. Teacher come at your doorstep. For more information a nd appointment , ema i l: bahasaprivate@gmail.com Spanish Tutor: Learn Spanish at your place with a DELE-certified examiner from Spain. Most of my students come from International Schools (JIS and BSJ). Please call me (Raúl) +62 (0) 821 1050 2786 Email: unascartas@yahoo.com Bahasa Indonesia lessons for expats living in South Jakarta, Kuningan, Country Wood, BSD, given by instructor with 20 years experience. Flexible schedule. Plea se ca ll Pa k Chair uman +62(0)8121037466 or email chairuman1942@gmail.com Experience hear tf ulness med it ation. L ea r n to rela x with the help of heartfulness meditation. Exper ience the beaut y of the hear t. To get more infor mation ema il to heartfulnessmeditationjkt@ gmail.com
C la ssic a l P ia no L e sson for Children & Adults. Experienced piano teacher is available to come to teach piano lesson at student’s house. Piano Lesson is for level beginner, intermediate and advanced. For further info please contact : +62(0)81299333 504. Sincerely Musical! Property
Looking for online data analyst. Online data processor position requires that you have a reliable computer with constant internet access and capabilities, a valid email address, basic internet knowledge and minimal typing skills. nandidaisy@gmail.com Services French and Bahasa Indonesia lesson at your place. For children
House for rent for expat at Jl Kemang Utara IV. Just renovated. App 700 sqm. 3+1 bedroom. Pool. Big garden and dining room. Garage and carport for 10 cars.
2 storey. Quiet and safe area. Ex ambassador res. Call Jayadinata +62(0)87882090837. (Call/SMS/ WA). Agent welcome. House for sale in Cilangkap Ja kar ta Timur, rear side of Mabes TNI (Indonesian National Armed Forces) 240sqm land, 200sqm building over 2½ floors, clothesline space on top floor, 8 bedrooms, 4 bathrooms, 1carport (4x4m), dining room, living room, kitchen, front garden. Please call/ sms Siska on +62(0)87777593924/ email ria.siskamya@hotmail.com for more info. For rent 300 houses at Kemang, Cipete, Cilandak, Jeruk Purut, Pondok Indah. Big gardens, swimming pools, USD 2,000 5,000. Phone: +62 (0) 816 859 551 or +62(0)8170093366
Beverly apt. TB Simatupang (jl. R A Kartini kav.16) next to JIS school gate. 2 br, 2 bath, 1 maid, 96m2, renovated dining, pantry and bathroom, washing n dryer machine, water filter and heater, pool, sauna, tennis court, 11th f loor. Contact Maya A. +62(0)811797743 4 br, 5 bath, 2 maid, 900m2, front garden, great living, family and pantry area , full furnished, pool. Contact Maya Asyikin +62(0)811797743 Office Space for Rent: 40m 2 , 45m 2 , 50m 2 , 79m 2 . Jl. Bangka Raya, Pela Mampang. Contact: info@gapuraraya.com FOR R EN T! Exclusive FullFur nished Apa r tment w it h Private Lift in Senayan Residence. Level 12. Size 184m2. 3 bedrooms (+1 maid room), 2 bathrooms (+1 maid bathroom), with balcony (view to Senayan Golf), located near Sudirman, SCBD, Plaza Senayan. Rent Charge USD 3150 / month, min.1 year rent. Rented by owner +62(0)811100303 FOR REN T! Full-Furnished Apartment in Sudirman Park. Level 6. Size 68m2. 3 bedrooms (+1 maid room), 2 bathrooms (+1
maid bathroom), with balcony, located near Sudirman, SCBD, Plaza Senayan, Plaza Indonesia. Rent Charge USD100/day ( Min. 1 week), USD 1200/month (min. 1 year rent). Rented by owner +62811102001
Made from apple stem cell or equal to 160 apples! 1 box @ IDR 1,560,000. You may as well become a member so next times you order you can get a discount or even run the business. Further info/order: +62(0)8119142266
For rent: Exclusive Apartment in Hampton's Park, Pondok Indah. Great location. 100m2 second floor. Pool view. Two bedrooms. Two bathrooms (one ensuite with bathtub). Office area. Bedroom + b a t h r o om for hou s e hold staff. Fully-furnished. includes kitchen set, fridge, microwave, dispenser, TV + open cabinet, built-in closet, built-in desks, phone, internet access. Apartment facilities: Gym, beautiful tropical pools and g rounds, jogg ing track, playground, tennis court, b a s k e t b a l l c ou r t . Wa l k i ng distance to JIS, location opposite Hero Supermarket, Starbucks, Hotel Kristal with restaurants and Satu Lagi Sports Bar. Five minutes away from RS Pondok Indah, Pondok Indah Malls and Pondok Indah Golf. Please call: Ibu Srie +62(0)87888875577. Email: srie_cartwright@yahoo. com or villajododewa@gmail. com
Panasonic 42inch full HD LED Smart TV for sale! We are selling our seldom used TV (model THL42E6G). Used only for a couple of days as it was place in our guestroom. Excellent condition! Rp.6 million. Contact via SMS or Whatsapp +62(0)8179844453
For Rent 1 Bedroom Apartment In Green View Pondok Indah. Semi-Furnished, size 97m 2 , pool view. Facilities: swimming pool, basketball court, tennis court, fitness room, playground. Walking distance to Jakarta International School. For more info, contact:+62(0)82216597180 oremail:huniboy56@gmail.com SH A R ING OFFICE SPACE: We are looking for someone or a company who would like to share office with us. We have 55 m2 area that is not used in 3rd floor, full AC, sets of table, chair & drawers, parking lot, toilet, etc. The office is inside ruko complex, in the corner, near security post. Location near Tanah Kusir, South Jakarta. Contact Aini - aini@ bogawarastama.com. Rent apt Kemang jaya(south Kemang 8) Ground f loor/big balcony /view garden Size : 270m2 4 bedroom+1 maid 3 bathroom +1maid Full furnished Rent chg : 3,000USD Call : +62(0)82110319308 Others Indonesian Heritage Society is now on Facebook! Be sure to click the link below to reach the official Facebook page. Start to follow us and explore our events/ activities: www.facebook.com/ theindonesianheritagesociety Are you or your family easily get sick/are having skin problem, etc? With weather nowadays you would definitely need a great supplement. Please consider using Apple Stem Cell from Bio green science! It has everything you need for your body (immunity, antioxidant, maintain health). www.biogreenscience.com. It’s in a sachet, you can drink directly or have it with water in a glass.
Business budgeting advice. I'm w a nt i ng t o sp e a k w it h someone who can give financial me advice on starting a business in Jakarta. I have most figures in and know cost of starting but need to advice on monthly budgeting with taxes, rent, wages etc. This type of business is not yet in Indonesia. Kent Prior <kentprior999@gmail. com> Household Staff Available Seeking an employer for our driver, Purwanto, when we leave in late June/July. Best driver I've had in 15 years. Reliable, good with kids, household chores, likes overtime, polite etc. Pls mail brummittcj@gmail.com I am Gunawan live in south jakarta. I am looking for a job as a driver. I speak English, Italian and Spanish. Experienced driver for expats. If you need my service for your office or family, please contact me +62(0)81317951675, or email me gunawanhadi64@ yahoo.co.id My name is Sugiarto. I live in Mampang South Jakarta. My experience working as driver f o r Br i t i s h Pe t r ol e u m , P T Weather ford oil ser v ice. Im looking job as office driver or personal driver. If you need a dr iver plea se contac t me: +62(0)817129515. Ava i lable eng l ish- spe a k i ng driver and experienced driving automatic cars. Knowing Jakarta areas and can read GPS also. Prefer to have job in South of Jakarta. For more info please sms or call to +62(0)895328137133 Mr. Budi. We would like to recommend Ibu Nani for employment as a pembantu. Ibu Nani has worked for our family for over 5 years. We have been very happy to employ her and her husband Pak Andi. Ibu Nani is experienced and skilled; she cooks delicious food and does not mind learning new recipes. She can read English r e c ip e s t o o. S he i s a g o o d housekeeper and will do whatever tasks you instruct her. We have a German Shepard and two cats that she helps care for, and is not afraid to make decisions such as calling the vet when we are away, when needed. Ibu Nani is honest and trustworthy. We have been very pleased to have her in our employment during our stay in Jakarta. If you have any questions about Ibu Nani please contact me at swimkim2005@yahoo.com Or you can call Ibu Nani directly on +62(0)81281682962.
We would like to recommend Pak Andi for employment for pool maintenance and gardening. Pak Andi and his wife, Ibu Nani (our maid) have worked for our family for over five years. Pak Andi is honest and does a good job with maintaining our pool, basic gardening and many odd jobs around the house. He also happily helps his w ife w ith housework including cleaning f loors, ironing and more. Pak Andi walks our German Shepard and takes care of our two cats. He is always in a pleasant mood and is a pleasure to work with. If you have any questions about Pak Andi please contact me at swimkim2005@yahoo.com Or you can call Pak Andi directly on +62(0)81210135421. For Sale Moving Jakarta Sale! · Mama's n Papa baby Cot almost new = Rp.2,600,000 · Babycot SPiral toy = Rp.600,000 new · Mother care baby carrying belt = Rp.600,000 · Jati wood King size double bed with mattress, side tables, dressing table exceptionally good in condition rarely used = Rp.19,000,0000 · Krishhome dinnerset 16 Pcs brand new = Rp.600,000 · Kids cycle convertable for 3-8 years child = Rp.500,000 · Ace hardware sports new cycle two times used only excellent condition = Rp.2,000,000 · Kid shoes 5-6 Year old brand new = Rp.100,000 · Used shoes for kids 3 year a7 5 years = Rp.35,000 / pair · BBQ stand brand new = Rp.400,000 · Avent baby bottles = Rp.150,000 (All) · Brown bench cum bed = Rp.2,000,000 · Clark brand new shoes for BRITISH SCHOOL STUDENTS Uniform (6-7 Year old size) = Rp.700,000 · Glass Vase = Rp.150,000 · Fisher Price baby rocking bouncer = Rp.150,000 · Infant Gym by Juniors = Rp.300,000 · Infant sitting Pilow = Rp.100,000 · Informa Foldabe Table brand new = Rp.1,000,000 · Informa T V console = Rp.2,600,000 · Informa Kitchen high chairs brand new Rp.500,000 each · Kid room Easy chair cum sofa Rp.1,000,000 · Teakwood dinning table , ver y rarely used (new), 6 chairs, cushions/table glass, Rp.5,200,000 https://www.flickr.com/ photos/131393378@N04/ albums/72157666948158800 Please contact on Whatsapp, sms o r c a l l on numb e r +62(0)8111469910 .
Primary, Kindergarten English and Mandarin Teacher positions. Full time and part time for a school in Denpasar. Please send your resume to u2cmm@yahoo. com Looking for Garment Production Manager, SPV, Admin, Fabric Cutter. Min 3 years experience in garment industr ies. Well Organized, Detail or iented, Proactive & independent. Pls send CV to: islandjewels.bali@ gmail.com Sales Consultant Wanted in Bali. Must have excellent written and spoken English. Sales experience a bonus – full training provided. Very generous remuneration. Send resume to careers@ aberdeenhouse.com.au Established Seminyak based f a shion br a nd r e qu i r e s experienced design/sourcing Personal Assistant. Must have previous experience in fashion with a good understanding of all aspects of the industry with good skills in Correl, Photoshop and an understanding of E Commerce platforms like Shopify. English as second language is must. Please forward all resumes to info@ dreamcharla.com
Looking for Household Staff Need Housekeeping & Waiter starting beginning July, brand new villa @ Canggu. Send CV adhise@gmail.com Ga rdener a nd a nima l ca rer wanted (English speaking) for private house in Karangasem Region, located at Liligundi about 15 minutes from Hardy’s in Amlapura. Live in position, fully furnished private room with ensuite; position would suit a mature person who can live away from family. Four days off per month, salary negotiable. Call Neil on +62(0)81353138770. Property House for sale in Pecatu-Bukit Unga sa n. L a nd si ze 84 sqm, building 55sqm. Living area, 1 bedroom at tached w ith bathroom (shower, bathtub, closet, water heater). Another 1 small bathroom, small kitchen, small garden, carpor t, semi furnished. 2AC, 2T V, phone line with Wifi, PDAM, 2200W electricity (token). Wardrobe, stove, washing machine, 2 tables with chair. Close to beaches & supermarket, golf area, quiet. Quick sale Rp. 1.4 Billion. Call owner 0821 4727 6297. E-mail: myhousepecatu@gmail.com
BALI Jobs Available L ook ing for Civ il Eng ineer, for project manager full time. Requirements: good English, AutoCad, SketchUp, Photoshop, Whatsapp, possible travel to our international projects. Send us your CV with Photo to: office@ paradise-realty-ltd.com
Getaway to Ubud, Bali – Stay at Steph and Dave’s Private Villa in Ubud, Bali . 3 Bedroom Private Pool Villa in the rice f ields. Authentic Balinese stay in a traditional village. 4.5 kms from Ubud, Quiet, peaceful setting – in
the rice. Sleeps 6 - ideal for family or couples. Free daily breakfast. Driver avail on request. Your own personal villa cook. Security 24 hrs. Read latest guest reviews on tripadvisor. Special Kitas Rates available. www.villadamee.com. Email: info@villadamee.com
SURABAYA Property Coin and banknote trader wishes to meet fellow collectors and traders in the Indonesian expat community. Available also for consultation on asset disposals in case of major life events. Please contact Paul on indostocks@ gmail.com + mention this advert.
SURABAYA Property LAND FOR SALE: Location at Silungan Lot Tunduh - Ubud Bali Rp.2,850,000/m2. Contact: Joko Parwoto—jokoparwoto8@gmail. com V i l la for sa le. 2 bed room s, 3 bathroom, nice quiet area in Ungasan, 2 level building, 200sqm, land size 400sqm. Call Made +62(0)8123877599. Overcontract: Small hotel in Balangan. Seaview 4 Bungalows Cafe Office. 18 years lease. Next to Yoga and Healthfood facilities. 13,5 or 21 ara land included. Bu i ld i ng p er m it . E m a i l t o bluewatercruises@hotmail.com Ja l a n B a l i C l i f f 5 a r e ne w c om me r c i a l w ork s hop a nd showroom with apartment and very large terrace above, 12 years 650.000.000 absolute bargain! Perfect to produce and show oyur products. Edy +62(0)823 40279725, devantourntravel@ gmail.com Selling 13 A re freehold 1km Uluwatu/Padang-Padang. Genuine bargain due to cash flow problem. Just want money back from purchase eight years ago. 120 million are buyer pays taxes. Call +62(0)81239000239. Villa for Sa le Pur i Bendesa Resort Ungasan Bali. Single floor villa with tropical garden. L a nd si ze 455sqm, bui ld ing 93sqm. 2 Bedrooms with en-suite bathrooms, guest toilet, living/ dining room and open kitchen, 4 x 6 m swimming pool, sundeck plus bale. Recently renovated, fully furnished. Hak Pakai on top of Hak Milik. Rp 3.3 Billion. E-mail: balyx2016@gmail.com Dreamland – 3 storey new house for sale/rent – 3 bedroom, 4 bathroom, pool, fully furnished, rooftop entertainment area, great views. Sell US$ 290,000. Rent Rp. 10 million/month. Phone +62(0)878 621 36775. Email: dwayu.92@gmail.com Near Dreamland new 2 bedroom, 2 bathroom house for sale/rent. Pool and entertainment area. Fully f ur nished. Open plan living. Sell US$110.000. Rent Rp.7 million/month. Phone +62 (0)878621367 75. E m a i l dwayu.92@gmail.com Dreamland, 1 and 2 bedroom a p a r t me nt s f or r e nt , f u l l y furnished, ocean views, 4 and 8 million/month. And a 7 bedroom house for rent, fully furnished, ocean views, 20 million/month. Phone +62(0)87862136775. Email dwayu.92@gmail.com
House for sale in a quiet residential estate. Land size 600m2, building size 250m2, 1 floor. The property includes a beautiful front and back tropical garden, 3 bedrooms (1 ensuite), 2 bathrooms, a large living area and a small front room. The back garden includes a pavillion which can be used as an extra room or storage. The property includes 1 maid room and 1 maid bathroom. For sale unfurnished, certif icate ‘hak milik’. Only serious candidates please. Deal directly with the owner, Ibu Indah. Please call +62(0)811268445 or emai l pukaanna@yahoo.co.uk
PELABUHAN RATU Property
Discover Villa Gamrang Beach house and ex per ience our ho spit a l it y. V i l la G a m r a ng (Nearby Cisolok, 4 hours ‘drive from Jakarta and 1 hour drive from the still unspoiled Sawarna beach ) is designed to offer guests a beautiful nature, complete privacy and luxury. Listed (Jan 9, 2014) in the "Top 100 Holiday Beach Houses ", Guardian Newspaper. Stylish interior, outdoor terraces, sea view, spacious garden, private swimming pool, 4 bedrooms , 3 bathrooms, complete kitchen, TV and Wi fi. Idyllic place to relax & enjoy a long weekend. Separate guesthouse w ith 1 bathroom and 2 bedrooms. Friendly staff a nd fem a le c o ok . In hou s e catering. Prices starting from IDR 2,100,000 per night ++ up to 10 persons. Villa Gamrang is highly appreciated by expats and Indonesian families. For Reviews and Reservations. www.villagamrang.nl or just mail us directly at villagamrang@gmail.com
MEDAN Property Emergency Sale: Land in Medan. 202.5m 2 Tanah milik - house with electricity. Rp.300 million or very near offer. Investment opportunity? Title deed here in Jakarta. No agents. Contact owner Ibu Lily: +62(0)81213995099 Email: terry@fullproofservices. net
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