Pleasures of the table Perutnina

PLEASURES OF THE TABLE

The Perutnina Ptuj Group is one of the most important poultry producers in Central and Eastern Europe. Joseph Altham spoke to Dr Roman Glaser, Perutnina Ptuj’s CEO, to find out about a company that has not only built up a flourishing export business but also wins awards for its wines.

Based in Slovenia, in the ancient city of Ptuj, Perutnina Ptuj has a long history. The company was founded in 1905 and started exporting poultry back in the 1930s. Ideologies may come and go but people will always love roast chicken. Perutnina Ptuj survived the establishment of communism in Yugoslavia, the collapse of communism in Yugoslavia and then the break-up of Yugoslavia itself. Today, alongside raw chicken and turkey, the company offers various added-value products such as turkey meatloaf and chicken dishes that are ready to be fried in a wok.

Perutnina Ptuj pioneered the development of the parboiled chicken sausage. The Poli chicken sausage, the company’s most famous product, came onto the market in 1974. As a chicken sausage, one of Poli’s advantages is its relatively low fat content. Poli also has obvious attractions for those

groups whose religion forbids the eating of pork. Perutnina Ptuj offers versions of the Poli sausage with vegetables or with cheese. More recently, the company has widened the Poli range to include a spreadable pâté. However, the recipe for the classic Poli sausage is the same as when it was first created. “It’s a secret,” said Dr Glaser, “just like the Coca-Cola formula!”

Pullus wines

While reluctant to divulge the recipe for Poli, Perutnina Ptuj is ready to offer many different suggestions on how to cook its turkey and chicken. To accompany these dishes, the company recommends various wines from its own subsidiary, Ptujska Klet. Ptuj, on the River Drava, is situated in the northeast of Slovenia, the country’s largest wine region. Ptujska Klet is Ptuj’s wine cellar, a labyrinth of underground passages beneath the old town. Perutnina Ptuj acquired Ptujska Klet in 2002 and later rebranded all its wines under the Pullus name. The Pullus wines have won many international awards. For example, the Pullus Sauvignon 2008 took the Gold Medal at the prestigious Concours Mondial de Bruxelles.

The wine cellar was established by a monastic order in the thirteenth century and Ptujska Klet is proud of its heritage, even though its employees no longer have to take a vow of poverty and chastity. To appeal to the young at heart, Pullus offers a decidedly non-monastic rosé, Pinky Chick, described as “probably the sexiest wine in Slovenia.” Pullus also produces a popular local speciality, Halozan, a refreshing blend of different grape varieties like Furmint, Riesling, Chardonnay and Pinot Grigio that are all grown on the hills around Ptuj. Production at Ptujska Klet combines respect for tradition with modern winemaking techniques. “Our region has some very special wines. Following the acquisition, we made improvements to the structure and quality of the wines and introduced computer-controlled technology. The Pullus wines have won gold and silver medals and the export market for them is global.” Growth

Dr Glaser took the helm at Perutnina Ptuj in 1992. At the time, the turnover of the business was about €30 million. Twenty years later, the turnover is €260 million and Perutnina Ptuj accounts for 45 per cent of Slovenia’s total meat exports. Achieving this kind of growth, says Dr Glaser, takes hard work. “The 1990s were not an easy time but I was lucky because I had a good team of managers around me.” A distinctive feature of the company is that it is a “vertically integrated” poultry business, giving Perutnina Ptuj control of production from farm to fork. This structure allows the company to guarantee the consumer a high level of quality. The business even prepares its own animal feed, ensuring the diet of the chickens is free from genetically modified grain.

Perutnina Ptuj has used acquisitions to expand into Croatia, Bosnia and Serbia, while retaining its characteristic vertically integrated approach in all three of these countries. In Bosnia, Perutnina Ptuj built its own meat processing plant near Sarajevo, completed in 2008. “After any acquisi-

tion we bring in our own organisation and production know-how. We are strong in the Balkans but we are also actively promoting exports of the chicken sausage to Germany, Austria and Scandinavia.”

Fitness

Dr Glaser was educated to be a vet and Perutnina Ptuj has a strong commitment to animal welfare and hygiene. “Bacterial contamination is a big issue and we have strict procedures in place to cover this.” Perutnina Ptuj also tries to encourage its customers to lead a healthy lifestyle, in the belief that health and fitness can be reconciled with the enjoyment of food and wine. The company sponsors the town’s cycling club and also supports a recreational cycling event for less serious athletes, the Poli Marathon.

“Chicken contains essential amino acids and is a good source of protein. The health benefits of chicken are one reason why this business has a future. Another is that we meet the high standards of quality that modern consumers demand.” n