Farm Indiana | August 2015

AUGUST 2015

Rural Living & Local Food

Beyond the Vine The Richardson family celebrates history, tradition and a good glass of wine at Mallow Run

ALSO INSIDE

Indiana State Fair Willowfield Lavender Farm Steckler Grassfed Farm

2

FARM INDIANA // AUGUST 2015

Contents AUGUST 2015

5 Field Notes Tips and advice

6 Mallow Run Winery 12 Willowfield

18

Lavender Farm

18 Steckler Grassfed 22 Melon Acres 26 Indiana School

for the Blind and Visually Impaired

30 Cotton Run Farm 34 Living Roots

38 Agritourism 40 Kevin Allison 40 Indiana State Fair 42 From the Field

Columns by growers and information on continuing education classes

50 Local Food

Grandpa’s Jerky ON THE COVER

Emma Richardson, 6, at Mallow Run Winery.

Photo by Josh Marshall

Kokomo Sched #31818062

FARM INDIANA // AUGUST 2015

3

EDITOR’S NOTE

Fair Lady

W

When I was a young girl — a young tomboy, rather — my happiest moments were spent outdoors. My friends and I would catch frogs and squeal when wayward garden snakes slithered past our heels. We regularly raced down the long hill of our street on skateboards. We played flag football and rode BMX bikes on a homemade dirt track; we set up lemonade stands and ate peanut butter sandwiches; and we competed in pick-up games of dodgeball, basketball and whiffle ball whenever and wherever we could.

Though we lived in the suburbs, my dad hung a large cast-iron farm bell in the backyard, and each evening, around dinner time, Dad rang the bell to signal my brother’s and my necessary return. No matter where we were in the neighborhood, we could hear that familiar clang and immediately went running.

Each August, I celebrated my birthday, a month also punctuated with visits to the Indiana State Fair. I saw my first concert there, enjoyed many ice cream cones and Midway rides and got my first up-close and personal glimpses of livestock.

Summer life, in all ways, was carefree and good.

Though I suppose my summer days are a little less carefree now, life still seems somehow better when it’s warm outside. My vegetables are growing. The days are longer. And nothing beats a really good fair.

At the time that I write this, I am fresh off of a visit to the Bartholomew County 4-H Fair and heading, in a few days, to the Johnson County Fair. These visits, just as they were when I was a child, are punctuated with stops by the livestock exhibits and time spent in line, waiting to purchase and devour lemon shake-ups, roasted ears of corn and pineapple whip cones.

On Aug. 7, which just so happens to be my birthday, the Indiana State Fair kicks off this year, and you can bet this now 40-something tomboy, ever young at heart, will be there

A monthly publication of Home News Enterprises, Farm Indiana offers the local news and views of Indiana’s farming world, including features about local families and their farms, agriculture businesses, equipment and technological advances, educational outreach programs and more. Farm Indiana promotes and celebrates Indiana’s rich history and tradition in farming; serves as a conduit of information among growers, producers, farmers, retailers, farming organizations and local food consumers; educates readers about the nutritional, social and financial importance of local food support and consumption; and highlights Indiana local foods and agritourism.

PUBLISHER Chuck Wells EDITOR Sherri Lynn Dugger CONTRIBUTING WRITERS

Liz Brownlee, April E. Clark, Katherine Coplen, Katie Glick, Angela Herrmann, Jessica Hoopengardner, Cheryl Carter Jones, Shawndra Miller, Jim Poysner, Clint Smith, Ryan Trares, Twinkle VanWinkle, Catherine Whittier, CJ Woodring COPY EDITOR Katharine Smith SENIOR GRAPHIC ARTIST Margo Wininger ADVERTISING ART DIRECTOR Amanda Waltz ADVERTISING DESIGN

Emma Ault, Hollie Brown, Dondra Brown, Tonya Cassidy, John Cole, Julie Daiker, Ben Hill, Phil Manning, Josh Meyer, Desiree Poteete, Tina Ray, Kelsey Ruddell, Robert Wilson PHOTOGRAPHER Josh Marshall IMAGE TECHNICIAN Matt Quebe

©2015 by Home News Enterprises.

All rights reserved. Reproduction of stories, photographs and advertisements without permission is prohibited.

Comments, story ideas, events and suggestions should be sent to Sherri Lynn Dugger, The Republic, 333 Second St., Columbus, IN 47201, call (812) 379-5608 or email farmindiana@hnenewspapers.com.

To advertise, contact Mike Rossetti at (812) 379-5764 or mrossetti@hnenewspapers.com.

To subscribe to Farm Indiana, call (800) 435-5601.

12 issues (1 year) will be delivered to your home for $24.

Back issues may also be purchased for $5 per issue.

4

FARM INDIANA // AUGUST 2015

FIELD NOTES

BY CATHERINE WHITTIER

Fruit Tree Grafting WORRIES ARE GONE FARM “has planted a diverse orchard of almost every variety of tree, shrub, vine and bramble known to bear in southern Indiana,” according to owner Chris Gonso. While it may be easier for the backyard gardener to buy a tree, Gonso says, “There is something magic about being able to propagate a tree and make one particular tree live forever” through grafting.

Grafting involves inserting a section from a tree stem of a certain variety (usually referred to as the scion) into an existing tree of a different variety (known as the stock). Over time, the scion and stock tissues unify and a branch capable of yielding the scion’s variety emerges. Using this method, growers can produce different varieties of apples — or different fruits altogether — on a single tree, eliminating the need to plant different trees and wait for years until they mature. The practice can also be used to repair injured fruit trees.

This year, Gonso used the bark grafting technique to implant superior tree varieties onto established root stock.

“Each species and variety will have its unique characteristics in terms of timing and best practices to ensure ‘take,’ but it is an ancient skill that with time, and a little bit of modern budding tape, continues to be a very low cost way to propagate true varieties of proven productive fruit trees,” he explains.

If a friend has “varieties to propagate that will allow you to take cuttings, learning how to graft can yield fruit trees, for free, that would cost about $25 to $35 (each) to purchase,” Gonso says.

Worries Are Gone is a If you live south of Inter32-acre family farm located state 70 or south of U.S. west of Bloomington. The 40, persimmon, pawpaw farm produces a wide variand walnut tree seedlings can often be found ety of fruits and vegetables, growing in backyards. “If beef on a limited basis, and a neighbor is not collectwill sell dormant scion ing all of his fruit, there will wood for grafting this winbe seedlings growing up,” ter. For more information, says Gonso. “Any of these visit wagfarm.com. varieties can be used as root stock for grafting.”

Sowing Cover Crops in Garden Paths »Candace Minster at the White Violet Center for Eco-Justice says farmers at the center are growing cover crops in the garden paths between their 18- to 24-inch raised earthen beds in order to effectively smother weeds. The farmers sowed hairy vetch, crimson clover and ladino white clover seeds into the soil in early February or March.

Hairy vetch “vines and goes crazy,” says Minster, and may need to be trimmed away from the beds occasionally. One benefit of using the cover crops is that they “fix atmospheric nitrogen and

make it available to the plants,” she adds.

Gardeners are able to “walk over the cover crops growing in the paths, and some can be mowed if necessary,” she says. The mowed flowers and cuttings become a good food source for the soil.

Minster says the vining cover crops should not be planted next to other vining plants, such as peas, as they will latch on to each other “creating too much competition between the plants.” The cover crop will die at the end of the season and can be turned back in to the soil.

The White Violet Center for EcoJustice, which offers tours and hosts educational workshops, grows fruit, vegetables, herbs and flowers, raises alpacas and sells fleece, yarn and garments.

Products are available at the Downtown Terre Haute Farmers Market and through the White Violet Center for Eco-Justice CSA. For more information, visit whiteviolet.org.

Healthy Sugar Snap Peas

» Pete Johnson, of Lost Pond Farm in Washington County, has found a way to start his sugar snap peas that has resulted in better overall production. When Johnson direct seeded his peas into the ground, he would often see spotty germination due to moisture, temperature or pests, which would lead to a “poor stand,” he says.

Johnson began starting his sugar snap pea seeds inside the greenhouse in trays, and this method has led to better results.

He fills the tray with growing media and then divides it into three approximately 3-inch wide sections, using long strips of cardboard. He sows the seeds into the

sections, and by the time seedlings are 6 inches tall and ready to transplant, the roots have woven themselves together sufficiently to make the Lost Pond Farm grows a wide section lift out like variety of flowers and seasonal a piece of sod, when produce, which is available at handled gently. the Bloomington Community Johnson takes his Farmers Market, and on seedlings outside Wednesdays at Bryan Park in to “harden off” Bloomington through its CSA. (adjust to outdoor For more information, visit temperatures) prior lostpondfarm.com. to transplanting.

He says the peas do not seem to suffer from any transplant shock, and stronger seedlings are no longer dependent on ideal weather conditions for a good start toward healthy production.

FARM INDIANA // AUGUST 2015

5

Quality of Life With year-round events and beautiful grounds, Mallow Run remains one of the biggest little wineries in the state

By Katherine Coplen Photography by Josh Marshall

6

FARM INDIANA // AUGUST 2015

T

THE GROUNDS OF MALLOW RUN WINERY

John Richardson, Laura and Bill Richardson

paint a bucolic scene. Country roads wind into green pastures; a baby calf grazes near a small, red horse barn. A new chicken coop dots the point between a historic house and a beautiful tasting room. The scene is serene. Most of the time.

Other times it’s a big party, as when the band Polka Boy waltzes in to play its rollicking cover tunes, or when the Carmel Symphony Orchestra returns for its yearly concert of patriotic hits around the Fourth of July, complete with fireworks.

There’s always something going on at the Johnson County winery, run by John Richardson, his son, Bill, and Bill’s wife, Laura, along with a dedicated staff. The Richardsons count 2015 as their 10th operational year; they planted their first grape vines in 2000.

But the family’s history on the Bargersville property stretches almost two centuries into the past. That’s when John’s great-great-grandfather, Bill Mallow, settled FARM INDIANA // AUGUST 2015

7

Aging barrels. Right:, Laura and Bill Richardson’s children Emma, 6, and Wesley, 2.

From left, Laura and Bill Richardson and children Emma and Wesley, Hannah Abraham, Sarah Shadday with her son Miles, 8 months, and Bill Richardson

the land in 1835. John was born in the house that Bill Mallow built, the same house that Bill and Laura now live in with their two children.

The winery’s seeds were planted after John’s retirement in 1996 from teaching English in New Albany. He moved back to the family property in 1998. Initially, he says, he just wanted to grow grapes to sell. But after bringing Bill (formerly with Charles Schwab, although he studied agriculture at Purdue University) and Laura (formerly a speech pathologist) on board, the Richardsons decided to make a go of it in the wine business.

8

FARM INDIANA // AUGUST 2015

Ten years later, the operation is one of the “biggest little wineries in the state,” Bill says. Big: The Richardsons produced more than 100,000 bottles of wine last year. Little: They bottled all those by hand with a fiveperson crew.

“There are different businesses, really,” Bill says, of the family’s yearly schedule.

“There’s (working in) the vineyard; there’s wine-making from all the fruit that we got from September, October, November, and then there’s the start of the soup season, January through March, where we’re making soups.”

“I think people just don’t think about the grape-growing industry as a viable agricultural industry when they’re thinking about what they’re going to grow.”

— BILL RICHARDSON

Mallow Run tasting room.

Below, Richardson explains how they fill and cork wine bottles.

Those soups play a role in Mallow Run’s Winter Warmup Weekends. They are just one of the winery’s events, including wine and painting nights, wine and pizza affairs, wine and flower arranging events and more.

Wine, of course, they say, goes with pretty much everything.

And Mallow Run’s wine is of the awardwinning sort. The Richardsons have garnered medals for several of their creations, including a gold medal in the 2014 Indy International Wine Competition for the Traminette, now available in dry, semisweet and sparkling varieties. Traminette is

the state’s signature grape, “chosen because it’s a grape that tends to be versatile and theoretically can grow in all parts of Indiana,” Bill explains.

“We are Indiana, we are Midwest, and the palate is sweeter,” Bill says of the company’s wines. “We make more rhubarb wine now than we did all wine when we opened.”

And the growth continues: The winery’s owners will break ground for a new banquet facility, plus plan another packed calendar of events. They will continue to ship their offerings to 15 states — many bottles go to Florida, John says — and distribute to retail FARM INDIANA // AUGUST 2015

9

Below, Emma and Wesley Richardson climb up to the chicken coop to peek in.

locations. Plus, they regularly send wine to local restaurants like Plainfield’s Black Swan Brewpub, Greenwood’s Vino Villa and Bargersville’s Taxman Brewing Co. “I just think we’re so fortunate because we’re close enough to so many communities that want Johnson County to thrive,” Laura says. “Franklin, Greenwood, Mooresville, Martinsville. All of those communities are within a 20-minute drive, and people can get here quickly.”

Though corn and soybeans are still grown on Mallow Run’s 600 total acres, along with a herd of 30 cattle, the Richardsons are going to expand their acreage of grapes, currently at about seven acres with 600 vines per acre.

They also plan to begin canning their own hard cider with an assist from Bargersville neighbor Taxman Brewing.

One thing the family wishes for: more grapes grown closer to home. Only about 20 percent of the wine they produce is made from grapes they grow on their own prop-

10

FARM INDIANA // AUGUST 2015

erty. “There needs to be a lot more people growing grapes in Indiana,” Bill says.

“We would buy everything we could get our hands on if it was available,” Laura adds. “I think people just don’t think about the grape-growing industry as a viable agricultural industry 6964 W. Whiteland Road, Bargersville when they’re thinking (317) 422-1556, mallowrun.com about what they’re going to grow.”

So, besides more grapes, what do the Richardsons hope the future will bring to their winery?

“In 10 years, I hope that it’s still a farm,” Bill says. “I hope that there’s still that sunset over there for people to enjoy,” motioning toward a setting sun just over his shoulder.

“I hope that by having a couple of businesses, we can preserve the rest of (our land) and still be able to have horses, chickens, sunsets and quality of life.”

Mallow Run Winery

The private family residence located on the winery grounds

FARM INDIANA // AUGUST 2015

11

12

FARM INDIANA // AUGUST 2015

Purple Rain The O’Connors battle unpredictable weather conditions to grow their lavender farm

By Ryan Trares Photography by Josh Marshall

FARM INDIANA // AUGUST 2015

13

Libbe O’Connor’s​picks fresh​lavender. Below,​ fresh lavender hangs inside the shop to dry.

Inset, The Willowfield Lavender Farm shop.

Plant by plant, nearly all of Kieran and Libbe O’Connor’s stock to be replanted this spring.

They dug holes on the mounds of rocky soil that had been built up on their Morgan County operation, Willowfield Lavender Farm. After breaking loose the soil and roots from their potted plants, they delicately placed the budding Lavandula augustifolia in their new homes.

The O’Connors have been growing lavender for more than 15 years, growing it first in their home garden before expanding to start a four-acre farm. Considered the

14

FARM INDIANA // AUGUST 2015

oldest working lavender operation in Indiana, Willowfield Lavender Farm now also hosts weddings among the farm’s pale purple plants, sells lavender byproducts and offers a place where budding lavender farmers can visit to receive pointers about the growing process.

The couple hope their work replanting will result in a full crop of English lavender.

“We’re basically replanting the whole field,” Kieran says. “We’re starting over.”

All farmers have to deal with the unpredictable weather of central Indiana. But for

the O’Connors, who are trying to grow a crop that’s better suited for the sunny and dry Mediterranean, the late spring frosts, merciless summer droughts and harsh winters present their niche crop with a unique challenge.

Over the last five years, alterations to the jet stream have brought more late spring freezes, which can kill budding plants as

they get started. Though lavender is droughtresistant, long stretches without water combined with 90-degree heat also can destroy the plant.

At Willowfield, the O’Connors suspect the drought that ravaged farms throughout Indiana in 2012 weakened many of their crops.

Successive brutal winters and hot summers have then taken too great a toll. A spring cold snap served as the last straw. The result was this spring’s replanting.

“You’re depending on Mother Nature to cooperate,” Libbe says. “Sometimes you get a bumper crop, and then sometimes you get a pretty big loss.”

One year, when a spring ice storm popped up unexpectedly, Kieran had to borrow sheets, tarps and any other cover he could find from neighbors to protect his plants.

“A lot of gardening gurus say you can’t grow lavender in Indiana, just because of the extremes,” Kieran explains. “You’ve got to always be on your toes. Every year we grow lavender, I’m having to tweak the plants because of the weather.”

In the last three years, Willowfield lost all of its hybrid plants.

“It’s such a challenge to grow lavender in Indiana,” Kieran says. “The weather is so different every year. The extremes are so different.”

A chair hand carved

by Kieran O’Connor.

A Cott age Operation The first shoots of what would become Willowfield Lavender Farm started to sprout in 2001, as Kieran prepared to retire from the Indianapolis Fire Department.

The O’Connors’ property in the hills of

Mooresville at one time was a farm. So Kieran and his wife decided to follow tradition and start a small hobby farm there.

“We had grown some lavender plants of our own when we lived in Southport,” he says. “We thought it (growing lavender) would be perfect.”

Their first year in operation, the O’Connors planted 100 lavender seedlings that they had bought from local nurseries.

Most of the starts survived the winter, and the farm was in full bloom.

At its peak, Willowfield had 2,500 plants growing with approximately 30 varieties of lavender. The O’Connors have since cut back on what they offer, having now learned which ones grow best and can survive Indiana’s climate.

Lavender requires full, hot sun for at least six hours during the day. The plant grows FARM INDIANA // AUGUST 2015

15

Inside the O’Connor’s private residence

16

FARM INDIANA // AUGUST 2015

best in well-drained, rocky soil, particularly in areas where limestone is common. The soil around the O’Connors farm is standard Indiana clay, so Kieran tills his land, creating mounds of dirt to plant the lavender. He aerates the soil, then adds crushed lime in order to get the proper alkaline conditions for growing.

Because it’s a Mediterranean plant, lavender “doesn’t need constant watering,” he says. “It’s a good plant to let go on vacation.

What kills lavender the most is people watering it too much.”

The couple propagate the lavender by stem-cutting, snipping about four inches off an existing stand and starting a new plant from it. If they keep the cutting moist and in adequate soil, the new lavender will be growing within a month, Kieran explains.

Lavender has held many uses for centuries. The most popular species is the augustifolia, more popularly known as English lavender.

Essential oils from the plant can be used to soothe burns, help with headaches, repel insects and serve as a sleep aid. Lavender can be added to food, such as the lavender shortbread cookies and lavender lemon pound cake that the O’Connors serve during events at the farm. The plant can be Willowfield Lavender Farm brewed with tea, used to WHERE: 6176 E. Smokey View Road, Mooresville make soap or turned into HOURS: 10 a.m. to 4 p.m. Tuesday through a relaxing body spray.

Saturday through September.

The farm has conINFORMATION: willowfieldlavender.com tracted with a company that blends the base for the sprays, soaps and other products sold, and Libbe finishes the items. It’s too much to do the entire process on her own.

“It’s a cottage industry, and we’ve kept it that way,” she says. “We’ve had lots of inquiries for wholesale, and we know if we do that we’d have to turn it over to the company who does the blends. We haven’t made the decision to go that far.”

The O’Connor’s home is located on the property.

FARM INDIANA // AUGUST 2015

17

What Nature Intended Steckler Grassfed specializes in growing organic grass-fed, pasture-based food Jerry Steckler

18

FARM INDIANA // AUGUST 2015

By April E. Clark PHOTOGRAPHY BY JOSH MARSHALL

N

NEARLY 30 YEARS AGO, certified organic farmer Jerry Steckler and his wife, Marsha, were living a typical life in suburbia. But something just didn’t feel right.

“I grew up on a dairy farm and got into construction after high school,” Jerry Steckler explains. “We were living in more of an urban area.

As our kids were growing older, I realized I didn’t have anything to teach them about nature or the responsibility of chores like I had growing up.”

So in 1986, the Stecklers moved their family from Newburgh to St. Henry, a small German Catholic village in south central Dubois County.

Steckler describes the rural southern Indiana setting, now home to the 200-acre Steckler Grassfed family farm, as “just a spot on the road.”

It’s a Family Affair

Today, the Stecklers have eight children, ranging from 15 to 34, and 11 grandkids, who have all grown up knowing life on the farm.

“I’ve really tried not to impose what we do on all of my kids,” Steckler says. “They have learned to work hard, but it’s not a bad, four-letter word.”

The Stecklers’ oldest daughter, Charmian Klem, 34, assists at the pasture-based, certified organic farm with accounting, marketing and business development. She holds many fond memories of growing up among the rolling green pastures of the Steckler land.

“There are a lot of good memories,” Klem says. “Most of them include work because that’s what we did most. Many tasks on a farm can be mundane, so it warms my heart to think back on how we made the best out of those situations by using our imaginations to keep the work fun and entertaining.”

Klem recalls a childhood game she and her sister would play while working on the farm. “In the milk house, my sister and I would bounce around from square to square on the checkered floor pattern,” she says. “It seems silly now, but anything to keep a good attitude. This (philosophy) bleeds over into life now.”

As organic producers of cheese, pastured poultry including free-range eggs, broilers and turkeys, and 100 percent grass-fed lamb and beef, Steckler Grassfed is dedicated to the idea that consumers should know their food. And their farmer.

The concept is one Klem is proud to represent in her family’s day-to-day operations. “I like being a part of a winning team,” she says. “I love helping my family reach their goals and see a small farm thrive in today’s mega-agriculture mentality.”

Clockwise, cows graze on the pasture at Steckler Grassfed Farm. An overview of the farm from a hill. Steckler tends to the cows and milking equipment.

Evolution of a Farm

When the Stecklers started their family business in the mid-1980s, Steckler says, he held the big-ag mindset of most American farmers at the time.

They planted and harvested crops to feed Holsteins. They believed bigger was better.

Ultimately, however, the work and operational costs proved taxing. “We … felt there just had to be a better way, a more natural way of doing things,” he says. “God created us for more than driving tractors around the fields and scraping manure from the barn.”

In 1994, the Stecklers sought a more natural, organic method of farming. They looked to internationally known farmer Joel Salatin, of Virginia’s Shenandoah Valley, for inspiration.

“He had the right idea of getting back to the basics, letting animals eat what they were designed to eat in the environment they were created to inhabit,” Steckler says. “That’s been my contention for years.

Everything a farmer needs God gives us. Why can’t a farmer make a living using a model where we can use everything we already have for free? We don’t need all these fossil fuels to take care of the animals.”

FARM INDIANA // AUGUST 2015

19

Steckler’s daughter, Lezlie, feeds the pigs. Below, Steckler moves an electric fence to provide new pasture for the cows.

Steckler Grassfed began its transition to organic farming by utilizing intensive rotational grazing, a method where cows feed in the fields twice a day. Steckler says the herd, around 50 to 55 strong, are calmer, manure is left out at pasture and less hay needs to be harvested. The farm officially became certified organic with the Ohio Ecological Food and Farm Association in 2007.

The Stecklers’ ultimate goals are to create a nutritious food base and more jobs in agriculture, specifically in organic farming. Steckler sees much potential in the grass-fed beef market — especially with today’s farm-to-table hospitality movement — one he hopes to grow on his end 21477 N. County Road 600E, by partnering with Dale, (812) 683-3098, StecklerGrassfed.com other farmers and HOURS: vendors.

8 a.m. to 5 p.m. Tuesdays, “We are certainly 12 to 6 p.m. Fridays, and interested in the type 8 a.m. to 2 p.m. Saturdays of people who are interested in this type of food production,” he says. “I have my intentions to create as many jobs as I can. There’s opportunity for doing more projects on the farm.”

Along with grass-fed beef, the Stecklers also raise about 1,000 chickens and upward of 50 turkeys per year. They have a flock of Katahdin sheep and added hogs a little over a year ago. And there’s the cheese.

Steckler Grassfed

Expanding reach

In keeping with consumer trends that prefer organically produced foods, Steckler Grassfed has also placed a grass-roots emphasis on producing aged raw milk cheeses. For the last three years, the farm has made its variety of organic cheeses available at its Dale location, retail locations and farmers markets in Indiana and Kentucky and online. The Stecklers are also working with cheese suppliers, including the Great American Cheese Collection, to expand into the trendy Chicago and San Francisco culinary markets.

Participating in area farmers markets is one way Steckler Grassfed promotes its cheese brand and increases its reach among the public. “The farmers markets help to put a face with the logo. It ties folks to us,” Klem says. “They taste the cheese, talk with a friendly face and become more committed to what we are doing.”

In the end, farming is about building good relationships, she believes. “People want to know 20

FARM INDIANA // AUGUST 2015

where their food comes from,” she explains. “They are looking for good food, looking for a cause to get behind, and I believe what we are doing is something to rally around, no matter where a person lives.”

For Steckler, who knew he wasn’t cut out for life in suburbia 30 years ago, organic farming is a journey based on faith. “I truly believe that if we come back to being in harmony with nature, our health will come back to us,” he says. “This is what God intended for me to do — working from the land — and that’s the biggest satisfaction for me.

It’s how nature intended it. That in itself is what gets me out of bed to do a 60-hour work week.”

“People want to know where their food comes from. They are looking for good food, looking for a cause to get behind, and I believe what we are doing is something to rally around, no matter where a person lives.”

— CHARMIAN KLEM

FARM INDIANA // AUGUST 2015

21

The Horrall family focuses on safety and diversity at its Knox County farm

I

BY ANGELA HERRMANN PHOTOGRAPHY BY JOSH MARSHALL

RIPE FOR CHANGE

22

FARM INDIANA // AUGUST 2015

IT’S A TYPICAL MORNING at Melon Acres in southwestern Indiana, just 16 miles north of Vincennes. Autumn Horrall-Freeman, the farm’s safety manager, is in what she considers to be her office. The rest of the world, on the other hand, might see her office as a vintage Starcraft travel trailer, white with orange details, parked inside a large, refrigerated food storage and processing building. The carpeted, wood-paneled trailer interior is unexpectedly toasty warm.

Autumn, who goes by Audie, is catching up on paperwork. The 28-year-old Purdue agribusiness graduate is also responsible for the packing of asparagus, sweet corn, watermelon, cucumbers and pumpkins. “And I manage the sales office,” she adds.

While the farm is known as Melon Acres — because melons are what put this Indiana farm on the map — the operation has diversified to offer much more, including a 700-member Community Supported Agriculture operation. Whitney Horrall, Audie’s sister, is responsible for the CSA and high-tunnel operation. Across the property from Audie’s office, Whitney works in a more conventional-style office setting, unless you consider the pony-sized dog sitting in the room. An intern works at another desk across the office.

Whitney, also a Purdue University grad, has accomplished a lot since her 2012 graduation, including the development of the three-and-a-half acre high-tunnel operation that produces fruit and vegetables for the CSA.

Retired school busses with windows removed are used to carry harvested watermelons.

FARM INDIANA // AUGUST 2015

23

Whitney Horrall

Jorge Rangel

Above, high tunnels that grow berries and peppers

24

FARM INDIANA // AUGUST 2015

Autumn Horrall-Freeman

“I think it’s going to be a great berry year,” she explains as she walks among rows of blackberries and blueberries growing in the tunnels.

Whitney said the tunnels are removed each winter because they aren’t strong enough to handle the snow load but are reinstalled in late February or early March.

And then she begins explaining the benefits of high-tunnel crop production.

“The tunnels help heat the soil so we can plant sooner,” she says. “We’re creating a controlled environment to protect the plants from the wind and elements.” Protecting the plants helps ensure a reliable CSA harvest.

Farmers have to do everything they can when 700 CSA memberships are on the line.

Diversifying the farm Audie, Whitney and their brother, Jacob, who handles watermelon sales and production, represent the third generation of the family farm. All in their 20s, these farmers know the business because they have spent their lives working the farm with their parents and grandparents.

Prior to starting the farm, Abner Horrall and his late wife, Frieda, and their children, Carrie, Mike and Mitch, grew tomatoes. Abner, who worked a full-time job in Vincennes at a battery factory, decided to take a risk in 1976. He and Frieda bought an orchard near Oaktown to start Melon Acres.

Abner has since handed operations over to Mike and his wife, Vicki, who now run the farm with their three children. Audie, Whitney and Jacob co-own the 1,200-acre farm with their parents.

The primary keys to the farm’s success, Audie says, have been regular family meetings (such as monthly planning and strategy meetings through the winter) and a diverse operation.

“Once Mom and Dad and Grandpa knew for sure that we wanted to be involved, Dad started preplanning. He knew that the farm would need to be more diversified for all three of us to come back after college.”

— AUTUMN HORRALL-FREEMAN

Owensville. The outbreak affected sales for “Once Mom (Vicki Horrall) and Dad farms all over southern Indiana.

(Mike Horrall) and Grandpa (Abner Horrall) “That really hit home for us because it knew for sure that we wanted to be involved, was so close,” explains Audie. That fall and Dad started preplanning,” explains Audie. winter, she says, the family spent a lot of “He knew that the farm would need to be time trying to decide if they even wanted more diversified for all three of us to come to continue growing cantaloupe. Given back after college. That’s why we got into cantaloupes’ reticulated, scabrous surfaces, the high tunnels. That’s something my sister they are notoriously difficult to clean to meet researched and was interested in doing.” food-safety standards.

Diversification has created something for “We came up with two options: either quit everyone on the farm and has expanded revgrowing cantaloupe or build a new packenue streams. For instance, the farm’s asparing shed,” says Audie. agus venture, according Rather than abandonto Norm Conde, Melon ing their namesake Acres project manager, crop, the family opted provides a reason to for the latter, although keep workers employed they did cut back on longer and makes use of their cantaloupe propacking and refrigera5388 E. Gauger Road duction in 2013 and tion facilities that would 2014 as a precaution. not be used until later Oaktown By constructin the summer during (812) 745-4033 ing the new packing melon season. melonacres.com facility in partnerDespite the farm’s diship with two nearby versification and growfarmers, the Horralls ing CSA, there have, at could protect their times, been tough rows farm from liability to hoe for the Horralls. through the creation Conde, a retired high of a new corporate entity while also installschool science teacher and longtime family ing new cleaning equipment to maximize friend, refers to a “Jensen Farm fiasco” in sanitation. Forced-air cooling and modern Colorado as a particularly troubling time for packing lines now ensure that the produce the family. In 2011, the Jensen cantaloupe is packaged quickly in an environment that farm was cited as the source of a listeria slows ripening and extends shelf life. Along epidemic that killed 33 people. It was considwith the shed, the family also installed a ered one of the nation’s deadliest foodborne truck-cleaning station to minimize any posillness outbreaks. sibility for contamination from the fields.

Then, in 2012, a salmonella outbreak, Farming is about much more than simply which resulted in three deaths and 261 sick growing food, Audie says. “Part of the indusin 24 states, forced a cantaloupe recall. The try … part of our job now,” she explains, “is source of the outbreak came from a farm an food safety.” hour south, at Chamberlain Farms in nearby

Melon Acres

FARM INDIANA // AUGUST 2015

25

Well-Grounded A horticulture program grows as part of Elizabeth Garvey’s mission to help the visually impaired

BY SHAWNDRA MILLER PHOTOGRAPHY BY JOSH MARSHALL

26

FARM INDIANA // AUGUST 2015

S

STUDENT-PLANTED gardens dot the leafy sanctuary that’s home to the Indiana School for the Blind and Visually Impaired (ISBVI). Every day throughout the school year, its students — from elementary-age through high schoolers — are introduced into a world of green and growing things.

Elizabeth Garvey started the horticulture program 25 years ago. Now the 63-acre campus on Indianapolis’ northside boasts mature crabapple and locust trees that she and her students planted as saplings. A

well-established greenhouse, added in 1997, forms the beating heart of the program.

Against its front wall, potted vegetables and a lavish bed of swamp milkweed soak up sunshine. Houseplants and herbs flourish in the shelter of a box elder out back.

Elsewhere, numerous instructional plots augment the grounds, inviting curious

Clockwise, the ISBVI Greenhouse.

Plants left over from the ISBVI Spring 2015 Plant Sale.

Inset, Elizabeth Garvey.

hands to touch and noses to sniff. There’s a “tire garden” featuring herbs in tires that were cleaned and painted by the youngest pupils. A Shakespeare garden surrounds a bust of the bard with plants appearing in his plays and sonnets. The “alphabet garden” gives a vegetative A to Z in a row of upcycled chimney flue liners. And as of this year, runoff from the bus pad filters through a rain garden planted with help from Butler University students.

Garvey and her students tend all of them, keeping the grounds beautiful and enriching campus life in the process.

“Our overall philosophy is that we need to get these kids as much exposure to what they can’t see as possible,” she says.

Her mission is to share her love of the plant kingdom with children who might otherwise never encounter it. Like most technology-obsessed young people today, ISBVI students spend the majority of their time indoors. With the added hurdle of low vision or blindness, many need an extra nudge to go outside and get active.

Under Garvey’s tutelage, some 500 students’ worlds have expanded over the past quarter-century. Many start out feeling trepidation or outright fear in the garden.

The first time 18-year-old Tyrone Thompson touched a plant in the horticulture class, he wasn’t sure how to react. The Gary native didn’t have much history with gardening, and little incentive to start, at least until he came to ISBVI. Of that first brush with unnamed flora, he remembers, “I didn’t know what it was, and I thought it was going to bite me or something. But I touched it, and I actually felt kind of a pulse, because plants are alive; they just take a really, really long time moving.”

That was about six years ago. Now a graduate, he knows more about plant propagation and landscape management than most youths with 20/20 vision. But his main love is a red cart dubbed the Horticultural Hauler. Thompson, who considers himself the “greenhouse mechanic,” found a niche taking care of this and other carts used to transport plants, tools and pots from Garvey’s classroom to the greenhouse and other gardens.

“He loves anything with wheels,” Garvey says. “Old wagons, anything that needs to be moved from Point A to Point B, he’s your

Elizabeth Garbey (center) works with ISBVI students Tyrone Thompson, left, and Chris Avila. Below, from left, Avila uses touch to feel when he has a scoopful of dirt before placing it in the planter. A plaque identifying the Indiana School for the Blind and Visually Impaired as a historical location.

man.” Not only did he put new tires on the Hauler, he added a cup holder in front and a hitch in back. When the maintenance man put flames on the sides, the transformation was complete.

Though Thompson couldn’t purchase the cart as he requested upon graduation (because it’s state property), he has first dibs when it finally breaks down for good and needs to be tossed out. Fittingly, he wants to eventually repurpose it as a planter.

Classmate Tori Carmichael, 18, has a

physical impairment affecting her right arm, but she doesn’t let that slow her down.

For a while, the sophomore was the only girl in class. “The guys were asking me if I needed any help,” she says, “and I was like, ‘No, I’m good.’ I manage with just one hand.”

In one short year in the program, she’s become adept at weeding, pushing a wheelbarrow, transplanting, potting and shoveling. The whole rest of her school day, she says, she’s “just sitting.”

“I want to be active and move around and do something.”

At her old school, she wasn’t even in class with her peers but was expected to work in solitude in an office. “I wasn’t really part of the class, and it made me feel uncomfortable,” she says. “So coming from that experience to here, it’s been a true blessing that I get to do some of the stuff that other people can do, and I get to be involved.”

Another blessing: The very act of gardening, she says, “releases stress for me.”

FARM INDIANA // AUGUST 2015

27

Garvey

ISBVI Teacher Alessandra Kester guides Jalen Fletcher as the class works in the alphabet garden.

Graduate Leon Walker, 20, plans a career involving animal care, yet he’s already thinking about what plants he should have in his yard once he’s living on his own.

“When I get a house,” he says, “I’m going to figure out to plant some stuff, but it’s going to be awkward because I’m going to have dogs. I don’t know what I’m going to plant.”

He ticks off the varied sun and moisture requirements of different plants, considering.

Would he have thought about landscaping a future home prior to his involvement in Garvey’s landscape management classes?

He isn’t sure, but one thing is clear: The 28

FARM INDIANA // AUGUST 2015

work habits he’s gained from the program will serve him well. Working as a team, following instructions and showing up regardless of inclement weather, these skills transfer to any job.

Thompson, Carmichael and Walker all have low vision, but Garvey works with kids with all levels of visual impairment, including blindness. She teaches landscape management to upperclassmen and basic gardening to the elementary-age children.

Class sizes are capped at eight students to allow her to give targeted attention to her charges.

“It’s very student-specific in how we approach what they learn and what they need to get out of the class,” she says. Depending on how much vision they have, she imparts skills by guiding the students’ hands, modeling the correct movements.

“Some kids have really good tactile skills and can fill pots or wash pots,” she says, “but a lot of kids don’t, so that connection between the brain and fingers is not there.”

Garvey makes sure to capitalize on each child’s strengths and interests. She sets her students to work in teams, where each one has a role that fits his abilities.

To draw the children in, she favors plants that engage a sense other than vision.

Interesting textures, flavors and fragrances abound. For their rubbery texture, succulents are a winner, and fuzzy-leaved plants have great appeal.

In hopes of anchoring children’s school memories through their sense of smell, she introduces them to about 20 varieties of aromatic herbs. Other “scratch and sniff” plants include Giant Iboza, Trailing Plectranthus and Cuban oregano. And one of the best-loved plants is an easy-to-grow houseplant called grandfather’s pipe, which

starts, hanging baskets and flats of annuals produces a fragrant flower spike. and perennials. Houseplants are the main Finally, tasting the many varieties of event at the fall sale. Proceeds support the fruits and vegetables grown on-site gives horticulture program, and the experience students a greater appreciation of the origives students a chance to gins of their food, not to practice their social skills mention the sweetness of Indiana School while expanding into the a ripe homegrown melon, financial and publicity raspberry or tomato. for the Blind and realms.

In the fall, the students Visually Impaired Noting that people come will make salsa with 7725 N. College Ave. from all over Indiana to patomatoes and peppers Indianapolis tronize these sales, Garvey they’ve grown. Last year, (317) 253-1481 says it’s rewarding to think their persimmon harvest of the students’ seedlings went into cookies and ice and houseplants going to homes from one cream using honey from ISBVI beehives. end of the state to the other. “We have (Introducing beekeeping and honey prowonderful customers who come back year duction into the curriculum is another of after year and like to support our program Garvey’s projects.) because they believe in it,” she says. “That Not only do the students experience the makes me very proud because these kids thrill of growing things, they also particiare not just sitting around. They work very pate in the program’s fundraiser. Several hard.” times a year the greenhouse opens to the Clearly, so does Garvey, whom Thomppublic for a big plant sale. In spring, the son calls “the best horticulture teacher.” biggest sale features herb and vegetable

A group photo of Garvey’s ISBVI horticulture program students.

FARM INDIANA // AUGUST 2015

29

a new

VENTURE Cotton Run Farm takes root with faith and strong family values

By April E. Clark Photography by Josh Marshall

IF THERE’S A ONE-WORD secret behind Cotton Run Farm’s startup success in Shelby County, it’s teamwork. And after nearly two decades of marriage, the farm’s proprietors, Luther and Heather Linville, have teamwork down like clockwork.

Since early 2015, the Linvilles have owned and operated their new farm, a venture with an organic mission that they decided to pursue after they felt the family needed a change. “About the middle of January, I said we’ve got to do something different,” Heather says. “I was just praying about it and told Luther if you want to run a dairy farm, let’s do it. He was like a little kid at Christmas. His face lit up.”

30

FARM INDIANA // AUGUST 2015

HOOSIER HOSPITALITY Call it fate. Maybe divine intervention. Or simply great timing.

After the Linvilles officially made the life decision to pursue farming, Luther’s good friend, dairy farmer Mark Apple, approached him about keeping some of his cows. Apple wanted to pursue mission work, but didn’t want to see his farming legacy abruptly end.

“Mark was … grateful for someone to carry on what he had started,” Luther says.

The Linvilles began construction of a milking barn and farm store in January.

His father-in-law, friends and sons helped with construction. Apple was integral in assisting the family to establish a consistent milking regimen for the cows.

“A lot of milking equipment came from Mark,” Luther says.

“After we moved the cows, we had to be ready to milk that next day.

It took us 5½ hours to milk that first day. I was whipped.”

Cotton Run Farm operates under a herd-share agreement.

Customers, who range from large local families to an Indianapolis Metropolitan Police officer who had stopped in on a balmy Monday afternoon for his share, own a percentage of the dairy

Luther Linville

herd. They pay the Linvilles a monthly boarding fee to care for and milk the cows.

“People buy a share of the herd, so they own a piece of the cow,” Luther explains.

“This entitles them to a percentage of the milk. They buy a one-time $100 share, which has been enough for about four gallons of milk a month. It works just like a horse-boarding program.”

Luther says the cows are managed on 100 percent grass, a detail his health-conscious customer base appreciates. “The health benefits of raw milk are tied a lot to the cows being 100 percent grass-fed,” he says. “Of course we are milking in a clean environment and keeping it cold in a system that

“I was just praying about it and told Luther if you want to run a dairy farm, let’s do it. He was like a little kid at Christmas.

His face lit up.”

—HEATHER LINVILLE

takes it down to 36 degrees. People we talk to say it’s really good milk. I won’t take credit for that — that’s the cows.”

Organic practices at Cotton Run are used daily, although the farm is yet to be certified. Luther hopes that will come in time. The farm store is open to the public and provides customers with non-GMO, pastured eggs, whole and sectioned pastured chicken, farm-raised pork and local honey from a Hancock County beekeeper who tends to hives located on the property.

When in season, the store offers fresh produce grown on the farm. Luther encourages current and potential customers to stop in during farm store hours to shop and tour the facility.

“We have an open-door policy,” he says.

“I tell people we are inspected by every person who walks into the barn. There’s nothing we produce that we don’t consume.

We’re happy to show people around. There’s nothing here we wouldn’t feed ourselves.

We don’t spray the pastures with anything, and we haven’t needed antibiotics. The animals are very healthy. We try to provide the best life the animals can have.”

Luther hopes word-of-mouth about his products’ quality will help in the continued success of Cotton Run Farm. “Developing relationships is not hard. We relate to family people,” Luther says. “Marketing is our biggest challenge, knowing how to reach people who are interested in this type of farm-to-table concept. Everybody’s been nice, and we’ve met wonderful people to talk to. We’re just hoping to use that as a springboard as we continue to launch.”

TEAM LINVILLE For Heather, raised in Morristown, farming has been a new experience she has relished as the matriarch of the family. She finds the farm’s lush green pastures and quietly grazing cows a peaceful contrast to the busy life of motherhood.

Heather didn’t grow up on a farm, but Luther did. That hands-on experience has served the grass-fed operation well. “I grew up on a dairy farm in Rush County, so it has been a lifelong dream to get back to that,” he says. “It’s something I’ve loved most of my life.”

Luther Jr., 17

Ally Linville, 8

Left, a milk collection tank. Because the farm doesn’t pasteurize or homogenize their milk, containers are filled directly from this tank.

FARM INDIANA // AUGUST 2015

31

Left to right back: Luther Linville, Noah, 14, Heather, Luther Jr., 17, Front: twins James and Thomas, 6, Alley, 8, and Reed, 7.

32

FARM INDIANA // AUGUST 2015

est son, Luther Jr., life on the farm agrees Luther believes Heather has found her with him. “I like milking with my dad, calling helping establish the family farm. He and it’s challenging getting all the cows has even nicknamed her the Cow Whisperer. in the stalls and learning which ones were “I think the cows behave better when she’s the boss cows,” he says. “There’s not a lot around,” he says. “She has a gentler touch.” of other kids at school who live on a dairy The couple married 18 years ago, startfarm. It’s kind of fun to ing a family in Shelby talk about.”

County on a small piece Family, faith and hard of land on what was once work are all part of makLuther’s family’s farm.

6684 N. Road 775E ing Cotton Run Farm what Early on, he started a Morristown, (765) 745-1221 it is today. Heather says in construction business cottonrunfarm.wordpress.com five years she and Luther while she worked in Hours: 8 a.m. to 7 p.m. Monday envision expanding the retail and helped to raise through Saturday, closed Sundays operation into a multifamthe family’s six children, ily farm with a ministry ages 17, 14, 8, 7, and twin component. The Linvilles boys turning 6. are active members of the small Little Blue The Linvilles now have an 11-acre farm Friends Church, where Luther has been a with 11 cows, four hogs and 100 chickens, parishioner since childhood. with hopes of having 250 chickens and “I could also see the farm as a place some turkeys this fall. where troubled youth could work in a tradeThe kids help around the farm and have to-learn situation,” Heather says. “God gave already learned new skills and life lessons us this wonderful Earth. It’s just amazing. I as they watch their parents start a business guess that’s why I think it’s so peaceful.” from the ground up. For the Linvilles’ old-

Cotton Run Farm

Clockwise: A pig at Cotton Run Farm, Luther Jr. feeds a calf, a hoop barn that Luther designed and built.

FARM INDIANA // AUGUST 2015

33

LIVING ROOTS

F

French Lick is internationally renowned for its historic hotels and highly acclaimed spas. The upscale setting of the French Lick Springs Hotel and the West Baden Springs Hotel attracts guests as diverse as golfers and gamers, bridal parties and bowlers.

But five miles and 10 minutes away from the majestic resort complex exists a different type of community, in which friends and neighbors grow much of their food, laboring side by side in the fields. A neighborhood in which residents primarily live off the grid. And where, in fair weather, they hang clothes out to dry.

34

FARM INDIANA // AUGUST 2015

French Lick eco village provides a diverse community with common values

BY CJ WOODRING PHOTOGRAPHY BY JOSH MARSHALL

THIS IS LIVING ROOTS ECOVILLAGE. Founding member Michael Hicks serves as farm leader and holistic life coach. A Bedford native, Hicks established Indian Creek Farm in Jasper in 2004. Following two years in California, he returned to the Hoosier State, founding the Center for Community Empowerment in Jasper.

Living Roots, the 39-year-old says, is a culmination of those experiences. And at a time when just founding a farm can be daunting, Hicks has further challenged

himself by establishing a farm community.

“Farming is one of the most significant things we do, but it’s not all about farming,” he says. “We’re also showing that you can be successful in business and focusing on the opportunities people can have here.

That’s our number one thing. The secondary thing is outreach, which will come as we get settled.”

The project began in 2011. “I needed to find members and then find land,” he says.

“About a year-and-a-half ago I got the land,

Clockwise, Entrance to Living Roots. Eco villagers hang their clothes out to dry. A high tunnel garden. Eco village cabins.

Opposite page, from left: Tate Nielsen, Mecie Delffs, Sarah Leavesley, Chris Tarrett, Michael Hicks and Ali Mitchell.

In addition to building cabins, members have converted one of four barns to a community center, while also constructing three greenhouses, an outdoor kitchen and walk-in fridge, a produce shed and an earthen grow room. And more.

With the exception of some framing, very little of the work was outsourced, Hicks says.

Living Roots is intended to be completely self-sustaining. Toward that end, the founder is ever alert to additional produce and growers he’d like to include. The next move is toward getting more dairy animals, he says.

“We’re also looking toward more orchards and perennial stuff, and have envisioned the people we want to attract,” he explains. “For example, someone who cultivates mushrooms or a beekeeper. And we’d like to have our own nursery, so we’re kind of moving toward that. I think a lot of it will come.”

which was acquired collectively by three founding members.”

Located five miles outside French Lick, the setting near Patoka and Spring Valley lakes is defined by rolling hills and surrounded by national forests. The historic farm is composed of woods, fields and pastureland, with remaining acreage dedicated to gardens, housing and smaller animals.

Hicks says, overall, there are about 30 plots, which can support approximately 100 people.

Members began moving in a year ago.

“We currently have about 24 people, including three families,” Hicks says. “The average resident is about 35, but they range from 2 to 71 years old. About nine of them are apprentices for programs such as farming and healing arts. We also have a building apprenticeship program.”

Following a trial basis, full members pay an initial join fee and then a monthly housing fee, which includes utilities. Along with apprenticeships, regional employment

opportunities are available.

The community owns the entire property, Hicks says. “A full member gets a plot with a lifetime lease on which to build a home. Five cabins were built within the first 18 months, serving as temporary living until permanent homes are constructed.”

Members operate a farm market and CSA where they purvey site-grown produce. They sell grass-fed beef, present workshops and host monthly potlucks and tours for the public.

LIFE IN THE PAST LANE Although not intended to parallel New Harmony, a Utopian society established in southwestern Indiana nearly 200 years ago, Living Roots nonetheless incorporates many of the aspects of the former Wabash River community: An independent lifestyle. Spaces for self-renewal and quiet meditation. An orderly, productive and selfsustaining society, in which members share the labor.

“We’re not trying to be too communal,” Hicks says, explaining that Living Roots is like “an alternative homeowners association. It’s more intentional, a little more intimate — a balance between individual and community living.”

The concept, he says, was based on eco villages he’s visited worldwide, combining the best elements of each. “The big difference is in our farm,” he says. “We’re producing more food than any I know of, which has been hard for communities to do.”

It’s all about the farming style. “How FARM INDIANA // AUGUST 2015

35

Clockwise, Hicks in his eco village cabin. The community kitchen. The community dining table. Ali Mitchell.

often do you see a bunch of farmers working together in a field?” he asks. “This is sustainable, intensive growing and not a lot of tractor work. We have just four-and-a-half acres of produce, but because of our style, we’re producing what an average 10 to 15 acres would yield.

“The whole project is organic and chemical-free,” he adds. “We don’t get certified anymore; it’s just too much paperwork.

But we have grass-fed beef ... no hormones or antibiotics.”

Nonetheless, he stresses, EcoVillage is much more than a standard organic farm.

“It’s really about redeveloping our relationship with farming and finding out why young people aren’t becoming farmers,” he says. “How do we change that? This is something that needs to be addressed.”

It was the farming aspect that drew resi36

FARM INDIANA // AUGUST 2015

dent Chris Jarrett to the Indiana setting. A south Florida native educated as a culinary professional, Jarrett serves as assistant farm and community kitchen manager.

Jarrett says he grew tired of the corporate philosophy of working too many hours for a paycheck — which was soon spent — getting to sleep late at night and then having to do it all over again the next day.

“Plus, I was cooking all this food and had no connection to where it was coming from,” he adds. “So it made me think and look within myself to what I really wanted to do.”

The answer, he says, was organic farming.

Although he’d never been involved with communal living, per se, Jarrett had participated in the 2011 Occupy Wall Street movement, which, he says, was very structured.

“We were living at a campsite, which

was treated as a small community, and it appealed to me,” he says. “So I began looking at different apprenticeship programs that different farms offered throughout the country, and when I read about Living Roots, it just felt right.

“Not only was there a farm, but I’d be living holistically with the land. So I sent Michael an email, and the rest is history.”

Jarrett arrived last Halloween from his North Carolina home, initially signing up for a year’s stay. “I found similar things here that I related to from Occupy, and I told Michael I wanted to be completely immersed and see the entire year here ... the changing of the seasons,” he says. “Now that’s completely changed, and I want to stay permanently.”

Hicks acknowledges the lifestyle may not appeal to everyone. “It’s very creative stuff,

and it’s very fulfilling,” he says, “and there’s a lot of satisfaction in that. But it’s just a lot closer relationships than you’d find in a traditional neighborhood.

“You’re living where you’re working, and you’re also working alongside friends as well as someone you’re married to or in a relationship with,” he explains. “So there really are multiple relationships.”

Although farming is hard work, a sometimes slower-paced lifestyle can coexist, moving in rhythm with the seasons.

“Everything slows down here,” Jarrett says, “even when it comes to drying your clothes on the line outdoors in summer or indoors over wood stoves in winter.”

‘TEACH YOUR CHILDREN WELL’ Julie Montgomery moved to Living Roots from Shoals. While admitting it’s been an

Left, Michael Kuhn and Hicks

adjustment in lifestyle and living accommodations, it’s a move she hasn’t regretted.

It’s all about a mother’s love.

“This is mainly for my son, Nick, and what kind of experiences I can give him that he can hang on to and apply to his life, and that will benefit him,” she says. “I think this is one of the best things I’ve ever done for him. It’s a somewhat controlled environment, but he’ll be learning about work ethics, sustainable living and energy, and about healthy living practices.”

Montgomery first learned about Hicks 10 years ago when he was featured in a newspaper article about organic gardening. In 2010, she worked with him for six months, during which time he shared his vision for the project.

“After he discussed it, I knew that I wanted to be there and participate in some way and to some degree, so we moved here in December.”

Montgomery says she discussed the lifestyle with 14-year-old Nick, and they visited the setting. He agreed to try it for a year.

“This is an opportunity for him to gain some skills for the future,” she says. “There’s a great diversity of people here ... so much music and art and relationship building.

“This summer is going to be where he really gets into the program, working with the apprentices,” she adds. “He’s also found

people to play cards and chess with, so has really enjoyed it so far. We’re in a diverse community with common values, so it’s very positive.”

Overall, she believes Living Roots is a beneficial environment for youngsters. “Working with nature is very positive,” she explains.

“And it teaches them where their food comes from and how to grow it, which is empowering. I definitely would recommend it.”

When asked how he envisions the eco village when it’s completed, Hicks says that will never happen: It’s an ongoing project, constantly evolving.

“It’s been my goal and my thing to do, and I’m going to make it happen,” he says.

“It’s a nice piece of property, a good location with good soil and lots of springs. We have good customers around, and local communities have accepted us because we sell produce to restaurants and grocery stores.

“People around here are an open kind of people who aren’t isolated. ... We may be defined as ‘rustic’ and ‘earthy,’ but we’re also working at growing food, and food speaks and connects people. And I’m from the area.

So I have a lot of connections who know who I am and what kind of person I am.”

Living Roots Inc. is located at 5907 W. County Road 375S, French Lick. For more information, visit indianacommunity.org or call (812) 639-3170.

FARM INDIANA // AUGUST 2015

37

Kuehnert Dairy Farm

Down on the Farm

�

A roundup of fall agritourism experiences to educate and entertain

BY CJ WOODRING

IT’S BEEN SAID THE average American is three to four generations removed from the farm. Less than 2 percent of the U.S. population is involved in agricultural production, according to American Farm Bureau Federation’s “The Voice of Agriculture.” And despite the surging popularity of pick-ityourself farms and farmers markets, a disconnect remains between many Americans and their food sources.

In an effort to bridge that gap, farmers and growers, including vintners and orchardists, have become proactive in creating experiences others can enjoy.

These on-site activities, a melding of agritourism (a subset of rural tourism)

38

FARM INDIANA // AUGUST 2015

and culinary tourism (a subset of cultural tourism), allow owners to educate and entertain visitors while generating income beyond what cash crops and livestock may provide.

Although a majority of farms remain dedicated solely to growing and selling, for an increasing number it’s become much more. New ventures continue to crop up at privately owned agrarian settings, offering guests nearly year-round experiences.

And activities are as diverse and innovative as the farm owners.

Some growers have refurbished old barns or built new facilities to host reunions, receptions, Tyner Pond Farm weddings and meetings.

Others provide pastoral backdrops for professional photo shoots and plein air artists. Still others offer breakfasts, brunches, nature walks and barn museums.

Then there are festivals and fairs.

Held at rural settings throughout the United States, these events combine food, fun and educational opportunities while reconnecting visitors with the land. The following exemplify seasonal events in the U.S. heartland: Indiana.

Apples hold appeal for all ages.

Mooresville-based Anderson Orchard will host its Apple Festival & Craft Fair Sept. 26 and 27. Attractions include picked and pick-it-yourself apples, a pumpkin patch, homemade desserts and breads, and a craft tent.

Tuttle Orchards will host its annual Caramel Apple Festival Sept. 12, which includes an observation beehive, along with the caramel-covered treats. Hayrides, a corn maze and pick-it-yourself pumpkins are among activities that run at the Greenfield location through October.

Rather than generating extra income for themselves, owners of North Manchester-based J.L. Hawkins Farm raise funds for HOPE CSA (Hands-On Pastoral Education using Clergy Sustaining Agriculture), a nonprofit educational organization. (Owner Jeff Hawkins is an ordained Lutheran clergyman.) Proceeds are generated from artisanal pizzas, created with their own produce and natural, locally sourced ingredients. Pizzas are served each Friday evening through Sept. 25 this year, with the exception of Sept. 11.

In Good Taste

» The Hoosier State’s wineries have gained in number and popularity since Swiss immigrants founded the country’s first vineyard in Vevay. More than half of Indiana’s 77 wineries are members of a regional wine trail –– there are now six trails, ranging from northeast Steuben County to southeast Harrison County –– allowing participants to savor the flavor at 42 establishments while enjoying musicians, art shows and more.

» Pumpkin patches and corn mazes have become synonymous with harvest time, hayrides and Halloween. Toss in fall’s hearty apple, and you have the ingredients for fabulous fall events.

Waterman’s Family Farm hosts a Fall Harvest Festival in two locations: Indianapolis and Greenwood. Activities wind down with Punkin Kerplunkin’ at the Indianapolis location. Fall events begin Sept. 26 and run through October.

On the Vine

7 8

On the Road

Mirror Lake Bed & Breakfast

Select from among the Cardinal Flight Wine Trail, Hoosier Wine Trail, Indiana Uplands, Indiana Wine Trail, Indy Wine Trail or WINE Tour for a getaway experience that pairs well with any occasion.

Want more than a grape adventure?

Consider Madison Vineyards. In addition to a place to rest your head –– the site offers a four-bedroom bed-andbreakfast and two guest houses –– the family-owned operation hosts ongoing events: The 20th annual Harvest Hoot (Sept. 6); Twilight Tasting Dinner (Sept.

26 and Oct. 10); the Wine Trail Fall Haul (Nov. 7 and 8); and Nouveau Noel (Dec. 5 and 6).

Education and Fun

» In Allen County, a visit to the Kuehnert Dairy Fall Festival is an annual “must do.” Owners of the fifth-generation family farm welcome young visitors to engage in activities that include Moovie Night with the cows.

Meet Rodeo Ron and his Milkshake Cows and enjoy s’mores by the bonfire.

This year’s event runs weekends Sept.

26 through Oct. 25.

In Whiteland, Kelsay Farms will host Experience the Farm 2015 from Oct. 2 to Nov. 1. (Dairy Days Fall Festival is Oct. 10 and 11.) Visit the milking parlor and see baby calves. Climb Bale Mountain. Bring your flashlight and travel the maze in the dark each Friday and Saturday. And come Oct. 31, trickor-treat in the maze.

Noble County’s Farm to Fork and Feast Tour, the first in Indiana, incorporates several destinations intended to introduce participants to regional growers. The educational tour runs March

through October, providing insight into diverse regional growing processes through visits to a bison farm, winery, gardens, farmsteads, a maple syrup processor and lavender farm.

5

3

9 10

2 11 4

1

Pack a Bag

» Other Hoosier farms offer overnight accommodations for guests who enjoy awakening to a rooster’s crow and falling asleep to nature’s night sounds.

These are not bed-and-breakfasts in homes once connected with a farm; rather, they are on working farms.

Each farm stay is unique, with accommodations that include guest cottages, yurts and a historic farmhouse.

Most offer a full breakfast. Participation in farm chores is optional, and educational opportunities are a given.

Rome City’s Mirror Lake Bed & Breakfast offers farm packages. Guests select from a list of nearly a dozen regional farms, including lavender, alpaca, maple syrup and sheep, along with a winery and produce growers.

Packages are priced according to selected farms.

Greenfield-based Tyner Pond Farm offers educational tours and family visits, welcoming guests to its newly built four-bedroom farmhouse. Wander this Indiana farm to see chickens, cows and pigs, and enjoy the ambience of country living.

Whether you stay a few hours, a day or a weekend, take time to visit one (or more) of the state’s many farmers and growers. Learn about the growing process. Enjoy the bounty and hospitality of Hoosier growers. Reconnect with your food sources. And connect with new friends.

6

1

Anderson Orchard

7

369 E. Greencastle Road, Mooresville (317) 831-4181 andersonorcharad.com

2

Indiana Wine Trails

Statewide indianawines.org/tour/wine-trails

3

J.L. Hawkins Family Farm 10373 N. Road 300E, North Manchester hawkinsfamilyfarm.com

4

5

8

Madison Vineyards Estate Winery and Bed & Breakfast

Noble County’s Farm to Fork tour (260) 599-0060 visitnoblecounty.com

9

Tuttle Orchards 5717 N. Road 300W, Greenfield (317) 326-2278 indianapolisorchard.com

10

Tyner Pond Farm 7408 E. Road 200S, Greenfield (317) 446-5886, tynerpondfarm.com

Kuehnert Dairy Farm 6523 W. Cook Road, Fort Wayne (260) 417-1918, facebook.com/ Kuehnertdairyfarm

6

11463 N. Road 150W, Rome City (260) 854-4675, mirrorlakebb.com

Kelsay Farms LLC 6848 N. County Road 250E, Whiteland (317) 535-9150, kelsayfarms.com

Mirror Lake Bed & Breakfast, LLC

11

Waterman’s Family Farm 7010 E. Raymond St., Indianapolis (317) 356-6995 1100 N. State Road 37, Greenwood (317) 888-4189, watermansfamilyfarm.com

1456 E. Road 400N, Madison (888) 473-6500 madisonvineyards.com

FARM INDIANA // AUGUST 2015

39

»T

HE’S A SOIL MAN

Kevin Allison nourishes growth in Marion County and beyond STORY AND PHOTOS BY JIM POYSER

TWO MEN CROUCH beside freshly sprouting greens, rubbing soil between their fingers. They lean toward each other, speaking confidentially, occasionally pointing out over the expanse of the farm. Decisions are made, strategies put in place to nourish the soil to more efficiently grow the food that nourishes us.

They stand, brushing the dirt from their pants, then shake hands.

This kind of scene is taking place all over Marion County now that Kevin Allison has arrived. Allison is soil health specialist for the Marion County Soil and Water Conservation District, and you can’t go anywhere in the Indy area food-growing community without people talking about him.

Allison is a tall man with broad shoulders and an easy, soft-spoken way. He and his family moved from Washington, Indiana, where he served as conservation and livestock technician for the Daviess County SWCD. Now he is in great demand in Indianapolis and beyond. Schools, community gardens and farms all desire his expertise that focuses on soil health and encourages conservation.

He is a passionate advocate for no-till farming, for crop rotation and cover crops. These farming tactics are often discussed and some are implemented, but now that Allison has arrived on the scene, farmers and gardeners have someone they can reach out to for advice.

You might say he’s the hardestworking man in the soil business.

Healing the land Allison defines soil health as “the con-

40

FARM INDIANA // AUGUST 2015

tinued capacity of soil to function as a vital living ecosystem that sustains plants, animals, and humans.”

“We know that soils are degraded globally,” he notes, “and that it is a very serious problem. My goal is that everyone knows what soil health is and that everyone willing to do so will advocate for it.”

In short, he says, he is on a “campaign of bringing healing to the land.”

To heal the land, Allison says there are four basic principles of soil health: “One, keep the soil covered as much as possible. Two, disturb the soil as little as possible. Three, keep plants growing throughout the year to feed the soil; and four, maximize diversity using crop rotation and cover crops.

“On farms and in gardens,” he continues, “I’ll help plant seeds with growers who endeavor to get their soil’s biology functioning ecologically well.

Microbes are the main drivers of the incredible soil ecosystem.

“I hope to showcase,” he adds, “the soil health heroes who push conservation to new heights.”

One such soil health hero is Tyler Gough, the farm manager at Indy Urban Acres. He was already using organic farming tactics at his farm, located on Indy’s east side. But Gough says that Allison “has kind of turned the farm upside down, in a really good way.”

Gough explains: “I have grown tens of thousands of tomato plants in my life. I don’t even have to think about it anymore. Tilling has been part of my culture; it’s just what I do. For someone to say, ‘Stop tilling’ was like a record scratching to a halt at a party.

I was like, whoa, what? After getting to know Kevin, it all makes so much

sense. I wish I had met him years ago.”

Allison emphasizes that minimizing tillage “protects the home of countless beneficial microorganisms that make and cycle nutrients to naturally fertilize healthy vegetables.”

Gough says Allison’s four principles of soil health are “the equivalent of someone saying, ‘You can have bigger yields, healthier plants if you plant your tomatoes with the leaves in the soil and continuous roots in the ground.’

“This year,” Gough adds, “we’ll be building permanent no-till rows and cover cropping. As far as farm operations, we’ll be cutting down on a huge amount of inputs and staff time. But in the larger picture what this means is healthier soil, which will result in healthier plants. Sometimes a farm needs a rebirth.”

Ultimately for Gough, whose farm feeds food insecure families in Marion County, meeting Allison means he will be able to get more food to those families in need.

ping systems work best as a natural ecosystem with biodiversity, minimal disturbance, continuous living roots and cover.”

He provides an example: “Plant a fall legume cover crop that adds nitrogen into the system. During spring bloom, with proper timing and techniques, you can cut or crimp the stems and cover the soil with an armor of living mulch. Open a gap and a transplant works perfectly in this biologically primed soil.”

This method of farming basically mimics nature itself. In the process, says Allison, “We can create food webs in and above the soil that increase plant productivity and improve soil fertility.

“Green cover crops,” he continues, “are grown alongside vegetables and throughout the winter to collect sunlight and energize the soil, and their continuous living roots create an environment for soil life to thrive.”

An additional benefit to this style of farming is that the soil is a more powerful sequester of carbon dioxide.

Allison explains that “carbon sequestration is only going to occur when we ensure we have a stable soil environment in which carbon doesn’t readily oxidize and get released into the atmosphere. When we till the soil, the soil organic matter, carbon-rich plant material, and even the biotic glues that support soil structure are rapidly exposed to oxygen and microbes for quick decomposition.

“The byproduct of this microbial

A journey that takes time Allison maintains that tactics for improving the health of soil “can be as diverse as the people who use them. The most important piece of the puzzle is the will to do it. It’s a journey and can take time.

The best strategy is focus on the principles of soil health and to remember that conservation crop-

Allison with Tyler Gough

AT A GLANCE

Kevin Allison » Marion County Soil and Water Conservation District’s urban soil health specialist. » B.S. in environmental science from Indiana University. » Hails from Daviess County SWCD, where he served as conservation and livestock technician. » Three years of service in the Peace Corps’ Dominican Republic Community Environmental Development sector. » Focused on applying the principles of soil health to gardens and small farms for the benefit of soil function and the environment. » Lives in Indianapolis with his wife, Michelle, and 2-yearold daughter, Isanah. » For more information and to sign up for his newsletter, visit marionswcd.org.

feeding frenzy,” Allison concludes, “is carbon dioxide. In a soil health system with minimum tillage and natural decomposition, carbon from our crop residue and cover crops can become a part of the soil,” thus increasing the amount of CO2 sequestered.

He adds, “As the amount of organic matter in an acre of land increases by 1 percent, we are collecting 10,000 more pounds of carbon in the soil and not in our atmosphere.”

And so there is a double win here.

One, given fossil fuel pollution, we’ve greatly increased the amount of CO2 in the atmosphere, leading to more extreme weather and increased stresses on everyone, including farmers. To sequester more carbon is to decrease the CO2 in the atmosphere.

Win No. 2 includes healthier gardens and farms that are more resilient to the effects of climate change.

Allison explains: “Not only do we see an increase in infiltration of rainfall into our healthy soils, but the capacity of that soil to hold water is also

improved with long-term increases in organic matter content. In the event of heavy downpours and extreme heat, getting that rainfall into the soil without erosion and having it available to crops in the August heat is critical.”

All very well and good, but is it scalable?

Allison sees exciting developments in the soil business on gardens and farms of all sizes. “There are lots of farmers with larger operations making no-till and cover crops work on their land,” he points out, “and many are doing it very well. Indiana’s conservation farmers keep pushing ahead with soil health and are finding ways to get cover crops in their rotations. We also see that farmers utilizing proper grazing management in their rotations can produce some high yielding and very low input soils.

“I’m not the kind of person that likes to bank on technology for anything,” he adds, “but it is allowing for conservation to be applied on larger acreage. I’m looking forward to continuous improvements in equipment like roller crimpers and no-till planters.”

For Gough, Allison’s principles of soil health “require a change of culture.”

“Actually it means a change back to the way things were done. I hate to use the term ‘organic’ when it comes to farming. I much rather prefer the term ‘traditional.’ This is the way it has been done for hundreds of thousands of years.

“We are in an era,” Gough continues, “and not just in farming, of profit before people. Luckily now there are farmers wanting to buck this trend, and people like Kevin willing to help them get there or, I guess, back there.”

Bottom line for Allison is “soil health encourages biodiversity, and that’s why I like the concept so much,” he says. “Diversity keeps things interesting, and the same goes for being able to work with a diversity of ages.

Experienced farmers are a wealth of information and can be great teachers. But when I see a fourth-grader get interested in the living soil or my daughter in a cover cropped garden, it reminds me of why we push so hard for conservation in agriculture.”

FARM INDIANA // AUGUST 2015

41

Fair Weather Ahead

f

The Indiana State Fair heralds ‘Year of the Farmer’

BY CJ WOODRING

42

FARM INDIANA // AUGUST 2015

FIRST HELD IN 1852, the Indiana State Fair is the state’s largest multiday event celebrating Hoosier agriculture and has been held every year with the exception of war years: 1861 (Civil War) and 1942-45 (World War II).

Dow AgroSciences will present this year’s fair Aug. 7 to 23. Themed “Year of the Farmer,” the event will recognize Indiana growers at all levels and their roles in feeding and clothing the world.

The intent is to chronicle the past, present and future of Hoosier agriculture, said Lesley Gordon, the fair’s media and community outreach manager. “By dedicating the fair to farmers, we’re focusing on families that make it all happen and highlighting their hard work and dedication.”

Gordon said that along with annual crowd attendance — which remains at just under 1 million visitors — the number of young growers has also remained steady in 4-H groups and Open Class. “This year we have nearly 25,000 entries from 29 states, plus Quebec and Ontario, and entry is still open,” she said. “So it’s looking really great.”

This year’s highlights include an exhibit that showcases crops throughout the fairgrounds.

“We’re going to have some crops featured, so fairgoers can look for the largest cotton field in Indiana,” she said. “We’ll also exhibit soybeans and present a progression of corn, so they can see the corn’s growth at different stages.”

PHOTOS PROVIDEED BY THE INDIANA STATE FAIR

“ ”

“This year we have nearly 25,000 entries from 29 states, plus Quebec and Ontario, and entry is still open.” — LESLEY GORDON

Indiana Grown

Despite Indiana’s ranking as the nation’s 10th-largest farm state, a majority of the $16 billion Hoosiers spend annually on food is sourced outside the state. In fact, Indiana imports an estimated 90 percent of its food, according to the Indiana State Department of Agriculture.

The Indiana Grown program, organized by the ISDA, helps to brand and promote Hoosier produce and production for easy identification, location and purchase by consumers. It’s all about buying locally: supporting Indiana farmers and positively impacting the state’s overall economy.

Initially formed in 2012, the ISDA/Indiana Grown Initiative was revamped in July 2014 when Lt. Gov. Sue Ellspermann appointed a 12-member Indiana Grown commission. Members are charged with providing direction and guidance to ISDA staff, which is responsible for connecting businesses that use or sell agricultural products with Indiana-based producers.

Categories range from produce, field crops and dairy to eggs, seafood and ornamental horticulture, and include both big farming operations and small roadside

stands. According to Ben Kenney, director of communications for ISDA, Indiana Grown will have a stronger presence at this year’s fair.

“For the first time, we will have a booth prominently located within the Harvest Pavilion (previously the DuPont Pavilion).

At the display, we’ll have various Indiana Grown products, Indiana Grown members and partners, as well as ISDA employees, to help educate consumers about the importance of buying local.

“Indiana Grown members could range from farmers, producers, wineries, brewers, restaurateurs or grocers,” he explained. “I would anticipate at least 20 members will be at the booth, but nothing has been confirmed yet.”

As in the past, ISDA will showcase its annual display in the Normandy Barn.

Fair flavors

Nothing can compare with the sights, smells and sounds of a state, unless it’s the flavorful food.

From opening day — College ID Day — to closing Pepsi Wild Cherry Day, and every day in between, Indiana State Fair

SELECTED GROWERS »Operators of 17 Hoosier farms have been selected to represent the 17 days of the “Year of the Farmer” during August’s Indiana State Fair.

Each individual or family was selected in collaboration with Indiana agriculture stakeholders and represents a different element of Indiana agriculture. Selection was based on involvement with various agricultural aspects, including animal, grain, fruit and tree producers, as well as urban farming.

Representatives will be featured on daily highlight sheets and participate in exhibits and events throughout the fair.

Rajan Gajaria, vice president, Latin America and North America, Dow AgroSciences, called farmers “heroes of modern agriculture” and the selected growers “amazing role models for this essential industry.

“There is amazing variety in Indiana agriculture, which gives fairgoers a unique opportunity to learn more about the farmers who feed us all,” he said.

Selected farmers/farm families are as follows, along with the segment of agriculture they represent, their farm location and featured fair day.

FRIDAY, AUG. 7 Valerie Duttlinger, Gentryville, Spencer County – swine.

SUNDAY, AUG. 16 Luann Troxel, Hanna, LaPorte County – dairy.

SATURDAY, AUG. 8 Paul, Diane and Jeremy Russell, Eaton, Delaware County – sheep.

MONDAY, AUG. 17 Karlanea and Daryl Brown, Fowler, Benton County – aquaculture.

SUNDAY, AUG. 9 Dale and Lisa Koester, Wadesville, Posey County – corn, soybeans and wheat.

MONDAY, AUG. 10 Mike and Susan Shuter, Frankton, Madison County – beef.

TUESDAY, AUG. 18 Dan Wehr, Jasper, Dubois County – trees/hardwoods.

WEDNESDAY, AUG. 19 Doug Morrow, Marion, Grant County – corn and soybeans.

TUESDAY, AUG. 11 Phil Overdorf, Tipton, Tipton County – chicken.

THURSDAY, AUG. 20 David, Mary, Adam and Aaron Howell, Middleton, Delaware County – tomatoes.

WEDNESDAY, AUG. 12 Jerry, Paige, Jason and Alison McClure, Peru, Miami County – apples, produce, wine.

FRIDAY, AUG. 21 Larry Wappel Sr., Eric Wappel and Larry Wappel Jr., San Pierre, Starke County – mint.

THURSDAY, AUG. 13 Maggie Goeglein, Indianapolis, Marion County – urban farmer.

SATURDAY, AUG. 22 Cathy and Ashley Richards, Greenwood, Johnson County – produce.

FRIDAY, AUG. 14 David Lash, Mentone, Kosciusko County – corn and soybeans.

SATURDAY, AUG. 15 Dean and Anita Stumler, Fredericksburg, Washington County – pumpkins.

SUNDAY, AUG. 23 Ed Bell, Hagerstown, Wayne County – strawberries and other fruit.

FARM INDIANA // AUGUST 2015

43

organizers have sought innovative and educational formats in which to exhibit and showcase Hoosier produce.

A number of programs and events will honor Indiana’s farmers and the Hoosier State’s farming heritage. These include a Harvest Dinner, a Farmers Care food drive and a speaker series on the importance of modern farming.

Other attractions include Amazing Maize: The Science, History and Culture of Corn; Foods from the Forest, Roving Naturalist, a presentation of the Indiana Department of Natural Resources to be held at the Natural Resources Building; a Red Gold culinary demonstration and a chili recipe contest; an American Dairy Association Indiana culinary demonstration; and a Beer & Wine Exhibit in Grand Hall on Main Street for visitors 21 and older.

The Purdue Extension Agriculture Horticulture Building exhibit will provide food, fun and education, while Dow Agrosciences Farmers’ Day, Aug. 19, kicks off with an Old-Fashioned Pancake Breakfast presented

44

FARM INDIANA // AUGUST 2015

7:30 to 9:30 a.m. by Indiana Farm Bureau.

Finally, $5 Foodie Friday offers $5 gate admission and discounted food specials.

In addition to several 4-H and Open Class exhibits and livestock shows, this year’s face-offs include the Indiana Brewers’ Cup Competition and the Indiana State Fair Home Brew and Professional Brew Competition.

“Overall, we’re excited to be able to highlight farmers and focus on the hard work they and their families put into it,” Gordon said. “Each year, we try to make programs and exhibits at the Indiana State Fair innovative and yet still hold true to celebrating agriculture.

“The fair gives a sense of ownership to a lot of people, and we’re more than happy to see them here every year as we showcase and celebrate their achievements and contributions to the Hoosier State.”

Gates open 8 a.m. daily at the Indiana State Fairgrounds, 1202 E. 38th St., Indianapolis. Visit in.gov/statefair/fair/gen_info/ index.html for details and a full schedule.

Fairgoers savor Taste From Indiana Farms »The ongoing focus of the Indiana State Fair is on current and future Hoosier growers, their produce and products.

Statistically speaking, Indiana ranks first nationally in duck production, second in popcorn, ice cream, spearmint and processed tomatoes, and third in chickens.

The Hoosier State also ranks high in diversity, providing products as disparate as watercress and camel’s milk.

Monetarily speaking, Indiana’s agricultural is an $11.2 billion industry in the value of products sold, according to the Indiana State Department of Agriculture.

When the 2015 fair opens Aug. 7, organizers’ and participants’ objectives will be to present these facts. Chief among those presenters is the Indiana Farm Bureau’s Women’s Leadership Committee.

For more than 20 years, the WLC has sponsored “Taste From Indiana Farms,” a three-day component of the fair. This year’s event will run 11 a.m. to 5 p.m. Aug. 18 to 20 in the Farm Bureau Building auditorium.

Meggie Foster, coordinator for Indiana Farm Bureau’s Young Farmer and Women’s programs,

said about 5,000 fairgoers now experience Taste, a number that has increased throughout the years.

“There are a lot of repeat attendees, and they share their experience with friends, who also attend,” she said. “That’s been one of the biggest changes.”

The WLC is “dedicated to educating the public with programs and events that promote a positive image of agriculture,” according to its website (infarmbureau. org/infb/programs/wlc).

The committee is composed of 10 education and outreach coordinators, each representing one of Indiana Farm Bureau’s 10 districts.

In addition to offering fairgoers an opportunity to sample food or commodities produced or grown in Hoo-

sier fields, Taste From Indiana Farms provides Indiana Farm Bureau members an opportunity to interact with consumers regarding facts and fallacies of farm production.

Since its inception, each district has been responsible for presenting specific commodities, which are rotated each year, Foster said.

“The district is in charge of what they’re to serve at the fair and can go out and get donations for that commodity, which can be pork, dairy, beef, lamb, poultry, veggies, fruit, specialty, grain or soybeans. We use this as a tool to educate people about food grown and/or processed in Indiana, and it’s a great opportunity to communicate with our consumers.”

This year the WLC has also added a new feature,

Foster said. “We built off this year’s farm theme to develop ‘Tailgating in the Year of the Farmer.’ The WLC will feature fun tailgating recipes from the 10 commodities sampled during the Taste event.”

Providing meals for farmers and farm workers is a longstanding and cherished tradition, nourishing body and soul as workers take a much-needed break.

“In the agriculture community, we prepare numerous meals to take to our farmers and farmworkers in the field. A sit-down family meal during the busy seasons of farming is often enjoyed on a tailgate of a pickup truck,” Foster said.

“We’re happy to share a few of our favorite tailgating recipes with guests of the Indiana State Fair.”

FARM INDIANA // AUGUST 2015

45

Rural Living & Local Food

46

FARM INDIANA // AUGUST 2015

FROM THE FIELD

I

It has stopped, for now. I’m sure there will be more, but maybe the next hour will go by without any and hopefully another hour after that. I’m talking about the rain, and as I write this I am becoming more anxious each day for our farm, my family’s farm where I grew up, my farmer and all the Indiana farmers I work for.

Most of the time, rain makes me peaceful and want to wrap up in a blanket and read a good book. It makes my flowers grow so I don’t have to water them and puts me to sleep, a nice sleep. These days, I can’t fall asleep when it’s raining. And when I fall asleep to rain and wake up to more rain, it brings back memories I don’t really like to think about too often.

The rain this year has reminded me of the flood of 2008, which was not only a nightmare but a disaster. The rain put me to sleep that night, but I woke up to my sister barreling down the stairs yelling, “We’re stuck! It’s been raining all night; we are stuck on the hill!” At that moment, I knew it was bad. The ground had been saturated from several days of rain before the all-night downpour. Before I opened my eyes, I said a little prayer and then headed for the kitchen where I knew my farmer dad would be watching the weather forecast. He was leaning on the kitchen counter, trying not to sulk in the reality of what was happening. We made eye contact, and he said, “Get your boots and jackets; we are going to check the river.”

As we piled into his truck, rain still hitting the windshield, I was praying it wasn’t

Don’t Let Your Tears Hit the Ground

BY KATIE GLICK

stood the damage, let alone why I wanted that bad. Surely the river was just out a litto return home. tle, as it usually is, and it would be fine. It My home, that summer, was flooded, was still early June, still time to replant the covered in Mother Nature’s tears. crops. But no, the worst had happened.

I sent my girlfriends a text recently The creek had turned into the river, and about how emotional I have been about the river had turned into the Mississippi. the weather. A few of them had no clue; At no other time in my life had I seen my they live in the city. Memories of 2008 father’s face look so shocked, sad, upset come to mind, and tears start to fill my and angry all at once. I think it was mostly eyes, but I hold them back. shock as he said, “Girls, I have never seen What I have learned about farmers in it this way. Not in my lifetime. I bet some my 29 years of life of the old-timers haven’t even is that they are seen this.” And he was right, Katie Glick grew up resilient, in so many they hadn’t. We headed back on her family farm ways. A flooded to the farm and stopped at in Martinsville and field, horrible Grandma’s house to tell her. now lives with her drought, fluctuatShe hugged us all and tried to husband on their ing markets, sick hold back her tears. family farm near Columbus. She is a animals and acThat’s what I tried to do graduate of Purdue cidents on the then and have been trying to University and has worked in Indiana politics. farm may knock us do this summer, hold back She now works in the agriculture industry. She down, but we do my tears for my farmer and shares her personal, work, travel and farm life get back up. As my my family. stories on her blog, Fancy in the Country. farmer says, “We I moved from our farm to are going to get the city the day after the big through it, and it’s going to be OK.” flood in 2008. It was hard for me to leave Our home is the ground we live, work home during such a disaster, but I closely and die on and where our blood and monitored the damage and recovery from sweat saturate the dirt under our feet. afar that summer while working and living Some tears may fall from our eyes, but we in the city. After the flood and my homedon’t let them hit the ground, especially town of Martinsville, along with many these days when Mother Nature is doing other cities like Columbus, was covered in plenty of that on her own. Those of us water, all I wanted to do was return home who have dirt in our blood understand to help. I wanted to help my grandma what my dad used to always say to me: clean up her basement. I wanted to help “It’s just part of it.” Next year, rain or shine, families in town that lost their homes to flood or drought, we will get back up. the river. No one in the city really underFARM INDIANA // AUGUST 2015

47

FROM THE FIELD

Rain, rain and more rain...

BY CHERYL CARTER JONES

I

It is summer, typically a drier period of the year, but certainly not this year.

Actually, when one begins to ponder the weather, what is typical these days? More and more, it seems that the extremes are becoming more prevalent — either drought or too much rain or too hot or bitter cold.

There is no happy middle ground.

The past two years our farm has suffered from drought, even when everyone else was getting ample rain last year. I never would have thought that I would be sitting down to write a column on how to deal with all the rain in June and July, but here we are and that is my topic for this column.

Preventive measures are always the most effective and, frankly, are the easiest solutions. Once you have the water issues and are dealing with mud, you have a mess. Here are some considerations when planning your garden.

48

FARM INDIANA // AUGUST 2015

LOCATION, LOCATION, LOCATION »We hear about location being most important all the time, but do we practice it with our gardens?

Drainage, location of water, proximity to your house and the garden location in relationship to the sun are issues that should be considered in selecting a garden site.

RAISED BEDS »Raised beds have merit, whether we have too much rain or not. Their value, however, is very apparent when we are dealing with an overabundance of rain. Beyond the obvious drainage advantages of raised beds, a gardener also benefits by having an edge to sit on while work-

ing in the beds to weed, fertilize or otherwise tend to the care of the plants.

Raised beds also help to eliminate soil compaction issues since you are not walking in between the individual plants. If you have less than ideal soil, raised beds are a great and immediate way to create quality soil for your garden and easily allow for adding compost and other amendments in the process. However, using raised beds does not eliminate the need for good drainage in the pathways surrounding them, particularly if you have clay soil or your beds are situated in a lower elevation of your property.

DRAINAGE »There are a number of possible solutions to waterlogging issues, all dependent on the severity of the problem and, of course, available funding. The solutions range from simply using organic mulch and topsoil to raise the elevation of a low

area so that rain will run off, to something more complex and costly, such as installing a dry well or curtain drains, which carry water away through a perforated drain pipe surrounded by stones and covered with a filter cloth.

You can also use a sump pump to suck the water out of your garden and direct it some distance away.

WATER COLLECTION »Installing a water collection system helps to capture some of the excess rain we receive and saves it for the dry periods when that water is desperately needed. You can use something as simple as a barrel to get started. Keep in mind that you will want to filter out twigs and leaves and take care to ensure you are not creating a breeding ground for mosquitoes.

Preventive measures are great, but there is always a limit to their success in times of extreme rain, such as we have experienced this year. Then, there is ground such as mine, which is loamy sand.

There are areas of my farm that I do not worry about drainage issues because rarely is it a concern. So, for the times when you are faced with water concerns in your garden, here are some tips: CHECK FOR PLANT ISSUES »After a strong storm in particular, check plants for leaf or stem damage. Some plants may benefit from staking to help them recuperate after a storm. If the main stem has snapped, the plant is likely a loss.

Monitor the roots. Has a storm washed away the soil around the roots? If so, cover them right away before the roots dry out. If roots do not have to grow deep into the soil for water, then you may end up with roots growing parallel to the ground. Staking may be necessary, where possible, and you also stand a greater chance to lose those plants.

DEALING WITH WEEDS »If I could only find a market for weeds, I would be an instant millionaire! Weeds thrive in wet conditions. It is important to do your best to keep up with pulling weeds.

Consider using some type of mulch to prevent weeds from returning and to help ease soil erosion. Old newspaper or cardboard will work.

I suggest you wet it and weight it down so it does not blow away.

FUNGAL OR BACTERIAL DISEASE »Damp, humid conditions are prime for fungal and bacterial disease issues to arise. Powdery mildew can spread quickly, and it is important to treat it sooner rather than later.

WATCH WHERE YOU WALK »Plants and their root systems are susceptible to damage. Walking too close to the plants can cause soil compaction, which can affect root growth. Raised bed gardens eliminate this concern.

REPLENISH LOST NUTRIENTS »Water runoff can also carry away valuable nutrients. Fish emulsion or an organic all-purpose fertilizer can help to replenish lost nutrients.

STANDING WATER »Standing water can lead to root rot. To quickly correct the issue, you can dig a small trench to direct the water away from your plants to another area. Often, taking a shovel and dragging it along the path you want the water to travel is enough to redirect the water flow.

If enough water is standing, you may have to dig a ditch or trench, as shallow as 6 inches or as deep as 1 or 2 feet. Adding gravel or mulch promotes good drainage, and it retains the water deep in the soil for dry times. If your trench has to be channeled through your yard, after adding gravel or mulch, you can add topsoil back on top.

If you have buckets or other containers sitting outside, make sure you keep the water emptied out of them to eliminate a breeding ground for mosquitoes.

By the end of August, we may all be wishing we had some of this water back, which gives credence to water collection practices. In times of abundance, store it for the times it is needed.

Wishing you all an abundant crop!

Cheryl Carter Jones is an Indiana farmer and the president of the Local Growers’ Guild, a cooperative of farmers, retailers and community members dedicated to strengthening the local food economy in central and southern Indiana through education, direct support and market connections. For more information on the guild, visit localgrowers.org.

FARM INDIANA // AUGUST 2015

49

FROM THE FIELD

THE VIEW AT NIGHTFALL

Why rotational grazing matters: animals and land

O

BY LIZ BROWNLEE

OUR LAMBS HAVE figured out rotational grazing. Every day and a half, we rotate or move the lambs to a new part of our pasture, and they’ve caught on to the pattern. When Nate and I get busy setting up fence next door to their current, eaten-down paddock, it’s almost time to move. Nate opens the gate, and they walk

through without any herding or commotion. They get right to work grazing the new, lush green pasture.

We like our lambs, but I must admit that their IQ is average for sheep. This system of rotation doesn’t work because we have exceptional lambs. Instead, rotational grazing works because it’s good for the animals, it’s good for the land, it’s good for the farmers and it’s good for the customers.

Rotational grazing is a key part of what we do at Nightfall Farm, so we’re taking two months to really explain what this idea is all about. This month, we’ll tackle the benefits for our animals and the land.

GOOD FOR ALL Rotational grazing is based on how buffalo graze. Despite their size, buffalo are prey animals, and they know it. They protect themselves by grazing in large groups and keeping on the move. Their impact on an area is heavy but short-lived. They trample grass, push seeds into the dirt and leave manure, but then they may not revisit the area for months or longer. They reseed their pasture as they graze, leaving it plenty of time to regrow.

Rotational grazing works much the same way here at Nightfall. Our chickens serve as a great example.

We raise batches of 200 chickens at a time. Over their lifespan, they use about an acre of pasture (a little less than a football field). We could give the chickens that whole area at once, never moving their food, water

After years of gaining experience on other farms, Nate Brownlee and his wife, Liz, moved back to Indiana to start their own family farm, which they named Nightfall Farm. Here, they will share stories of the many trials, tribulations, successes and failures in running a new family business. For more on Nightfall Farm, visit nightfallfarm.com.

or shelter. This would take less labor and reduce our costs.

The result, though, would be negative because the chickens wouldn’t ever touch most of the pasture, and they would destroy the area they did use. The grass by the feed and water would be trampled into mud. The chickens would get dirty and develop sores on their feet from standing in their own manure. Some of the pasture would be killed from too much manure. Other parts would never receive any nutrients, and weeds would prosper.

Instead, we use “chicken tractors” to rotationally graze the chickens and create a positive effect.

The tractors are 12-by-10-foot structures of wood, chicken wire and tarp with open bottoms (the chickens are on grass at all times). Their food and water hang from the tractors and move along with them. The tractors protect our chickens from predators while giving them continuous access to pasture and plenty of room to socialize and forage.

We rotate the chickens to fresh pasture twice each day. The chickens move to the new grass and quickly fill their beaks with bugs, grass and seed heads. They are clean and active, and they forage for a diverse diet. Instead of tearing the grass into mud, they leave behind an even layer of fertilizer.

Months later, you can still see the positive impact of the chickens: 12-by-10-foot rectangles of dark, green growth.

The difference between a negative impact and a positive impact is how the animals are managed. Rotational grazing lets us improve our family land as we farm.

Next month, we’ll share why rotational grazing works for us as farmers and for our customers.

Advertiser Sched #

50

FARM INDIANA // AUGUST 2015

My Favorite Part Of Summer

M

BY JESSICA HOOPENGARDNER

MY FRIENDS always look forward to the county fair. It’s the best part of the summer for them. But I personally relish a different part of my summer — the week I spend at the state fair. The state fair holds so many memories for me, whether it be just visiting, showing or working in the FFA Pavilion.

The first state fair I remember, I was seven years old showing my first llama. I remember that my llama, a young male, was often spooked by all the people at the fair. I got knocked down multiple times in the ring, and was not very happy with him at all. More importantly, though, I remember the multitude of people rushing to help me at every turn. It was the year I learned that the llama community was made up of great people who always rushed to help one another.

A couple years after that, I had convinced my dad that we should sleep in the cattle barn overnight for the llama show. This was a mistake. We ended up being under the only row of lights in the barn that were left on over night. We both got no sleep and vowed to never stay in the barn again.

My eighth grade year I got braces — two days before I had to show at the state fair. Anyone who has had braces can vouch for me when I say the first week is the worst week. I had to show

all throughout that week. My diet consisted only of milkshakes (which wasn’t all that bad), but I did crave some pork burgers and other “real” food that was impossible for me to eat.

Whenever we visited the state fair, I always wanted to ride the trolley pulled by the tractors. I loved watching the fair pass by as we slowly crawled by the rest of the people who were walking.

I also loved the Department of Natural Resources building, which was filled with fish tanks. I would run from tank to tank to see all the different fishes there.

Something else I loved when I was little was playing putt-putt in the FFA Pavilion. I had no clue that some 10 years later, I would be working in the FFA Pavilion as an FFA member. Last year, I had the opportunity to help run the FFA Pavilion with my district officer team. I held down the coloring station, coloring a great picture of a tractor. I also played putt-putt with my friends and got a hole-inone, though no one else saw it (or believed me).

I know this year when I go to the Indiana State Fair to celebrate the Year of the Farmer, I will create even more memories. I encourage everyone to go the state fair, because there is so much to offer.

It’s my favorite part of the summer, no matter why I’m there.

Jessica Hoopengardner, pictured at her family farm, graduated from Eastern Hancock High School in Hancock County. Very involved in 4-H and FFA, Hoopengardner is the vice president of her 4-H club and the president of her FFA chapter. She plans on going to college outside Indiana and majoring in English and biology.

FARM INDIANA // AUGUST 2015

51

CONTINUING EDUCATION

Classes for farmers, producers and educators

BY KATHERINE COPLEN

AUG. 1

AUG. 5-6

Garfield Park Conservatory Workshop: “Harvesting and Preserving the Herbal Bounty”

Indiana Certified Crop Adviser Day

This one-hour class is offered as a partnership between the Herb Society of Central Indiana and Garfield Park Conservatory. Participants will learn how to harvest, preserve, dry and store their herbs. This is of particular interest as the summer season comes to an end and preservation begins in earnest. TIME: 10 a.m. LOCATION: Garfield Park Conservatory, 2505 Conservatory Drive, Indianapolis. INFORMATION: (317) 3277066, herbsocietyofcentralindiana.org.

AUG. 4

Indiana Certified Crop Adviser Day Classes for producers are starting to pick up in August, including more Pesticide Applicator Training Program classes for private applicators.

Purdue University will host two multiday conferences for agri-business professionals on topics of marketing and finance, and certified crop advisers can participate in one of three days of training in early August.

52

FARM INDIANA // AUGUST 2015

The first of three days of training for certified crop advisers takes place at the Columbia City NEPAC and covers topics like improving irrigation design and management, in-field fertility diagnostic tools and weed management, among other topics. The training workshop precedes a certified crop adviser exam at the Hamilton County Fairgrounds on Aug. 7. TIME: 8 a.m. LOCATION: NEPAC Diagnostic Training and Research Center, Columbia City. INFORMATION: (765) 494-4783, indianacca.org.

The second and third of three days of training for certified crop advisers occurs at the Purdue University Diagnostic Training and Research Center in West Lafayette. Topics including corn and soybean nematode issues, weed management issues and precision ag tech will be covered.

The training workshop precedes a certified crop adviser exam at the Hamilton County Fairgrounds on Aug. 7. TIME 8 a.m. LOCATION: Purdue University Diagnostic Training and Research Center, West Lafayette. INFORMATION: (765) 494-4783, indianacca.org.

AUG. 11-14

Agribusiness Finance for Non-Finance Managers This three-day workshop is geared toward non-financial agribusiness leaders who are looking to increase their knowledge of various financial strategies and responsibilities.

Organizers note that participants can earn continuing education units and certified crop adviser credit at this program. TIME: 8 a.m. LOCATION: Purdue University, West Lafayette. INFORMATION: (765) 494-4247, agribusiness.purdue. edu/seminars-and-events/agfinance.

AUG. 19

AUG. 27

Pinney Purdue Agricultural Center Field Day

Pre/Post-Harvest Workshop

Special twilight session. LOCATION: Pinney Purdue Ag Center, 11402 S. County Line Road, Wanatah.

INFORMATION: (219) 324-9407.

AUG. 19

Royal Jelly and Queen Development: A Chemical Perspective This edition of the monthly free webinar on various bee topics is in conjunction with Ohio State University and Purdue University; no registration is required. TIME: 9 a.m.

INFORMATION: ellsworth.2@osu.edu.

AUG. 24

13th annual Indiana Integrated Resource Management Field Day This field day takes place at Scenic View Farms, a “progressive, modern beef operation,” according to organizers. Topics will include pasture management, feedlot operation, producing/marketing freezer beef and genetics, plus a walking tour of the pasture and handling facilities. TIME: 2 p.m. LOCATION: Scenic View Farms, 16687 Scenic Drive, Lawrenceburg.

INFORMATION: (765) 494-8548.

AUG. 27

Northeast Purdue Agricultural Center Field Day This field day at Purdue’s newest Agricultural Center is geared toward local farmers, crop consultants, commercial applicators and ag business professionals. TIME: 7:30 a.m. LOCATION: NEPAC, 4821 E. Road 400S, Columbia City. INFORMATION: (260) 244-7290, ag.purdue.edu/ arp/pac/Pages/nepac-home.aspx.

Topics at this workshop include managing molds and mycotoxins in grain, pre-harvest preparation and stored grain management, storage economics, optimizing grain drying operations and personnel safety in grain handling. LOCATION: Purdue University Crop Diagnostic Training and Research Center; 4540 U.S. 52W, West Lafayette. TIME: 8 a.m. INFORMATION: (765) 496-3755, ag.purdue.edu/ agry/dtc/Pages/default.aspx.

AUG. 28

Boone Pesticide Applicator Training Program At this certification class, topics include keeping trailers hitched, recordkeeping and anhydrous ammonia safety. TIME: 9 a.m. LOCATION: Boone County Fairgrounds, Lebanon. INFORMATION: (765) 482-0750.

AUG. 28

Bluffton Field Day This Pesticide Applicator Training Program certification class covers topics like management of high yield soybeans and corn, plus a review of herbicide classification and plot tours. TIME: 10 a.m. LOCATION: Isch Seeds, 4107 W. Road 100S, Bluffton. INFORMATION: (260) 7245322, ext. 1234, bkohlhag@purdue.edu.

AUG. 31-SEPT. 2

Executive Agri-Marketing This three-day agri-marketing course will feature marketing experts lecturing and providing one-on-one coaching for agribusiness professionals looking to modernize their marketing strategies. TIME: 8 a.m., Aug. 31.

LOCATION: Purdue University, West Lafayette. INFORMATION: (765) 494-4247, agribusiness.purdue.edu/seminarsand-events/executive-agrimarketing.

Farm Indiana highlights classes from the Purdue Extension calendar every month, but there are many more to be found online. Log on to extension.purdue.edu for more information.

FARM INDIANA // AUGUST 2015

53

LOCAL FOOD RECIPE

STIR CRAZY As a purveyor of year-round produce, Eric Simo of Southern Crossroads Garden Center and Greenhouse in Columbus provides a recipe perfect for utilizing fresh local food.

A Family Tradition

Southern Crossroads Garden Medley Stir Fry with Sautéed Chicken

BY CLINT SMITH

For Jacob Piercy, owner of Grandpa’s Jerky, the craft of making jerky is about more than selecting a prime cut of meat, adding an array of seasonings and drying the product.

For Piercy, a Logansport native, it’s about honoring and preserving tradition. “My grandpa made deer jerky growing up,” says Piercy, 40, recalling the sight of deer meat hanging in his grandfather’s garage.

He says his grandfather, Lloyd Miller, used to tinker with a number of methods and a variety of recipes to make jerky. “Some were awful … but he finally worked it out, and (the deer jerky) is still some of the best jerky I’ve ever eaten,” he says.

During a Thanksgiving visit after graduating from college, Piercy stopped by his grandfather’s house. There, three 1-pound bags of jerky were lying on the kitchen counter.

When Piercy casually grabbed one of the bags to take with him, he was quickly reprimand-

54

FARM INDIANA // AUGUST 2015

SERVES 4 TO 6

ed. Those bags were set aside to be gifts, his grandfather told him. Piercy’s response: “Then why don’t you show me how to make it so I don’t have to worry about it anymore?” Of course, Grandpa obliged.

Piercy began selling his homemade jerky to friends and co-workers to pay for expenses. “My only goal was to be able eat Grandpa’s jerky for free,” he says.

Eight years ago, Miller passed away, and though Piercy continued to make the jerky for his close family, it wasn’t until a neighbor (after sampling it) suggested Piercy begin selling at the Fishers Farmers Market that he went into business for himself three years ago.

Grandpa’s Jerky is available at four Saturday morning farmers markets this summer: Kokomo, Lafayette, Fishers and Noblesville. Aside from the traditional jerky, the Blueberry Habanero is a notable crowd favorite. “After warning people how hot it is, they either try it and love it or try another product and love that one,” says Piercy.

Recently, he introduced a ghost pepper-flavored jerky.

“Mainly because it was my 8-year-old son’s idea,” he explains. “It’s nice to see him take a bit of ownership and get involved.” In fact, many family members are involved in the business. “Mostly eating the profits,” Piercy jokes. For more

information, visit grandpasjerky.net.

1 tablespoon olive oil 1½ to 2 pounds boneless, skinless chicken breast, medium dice 2 tablespoons unsalted butter 1 medium onion, small dice 2 to 4 garlic cloves, minced 1 medium summer squash, sliced 1 large zucchini, sliced ½ pound fresh green beans, trimmed To taste, sliced pineapple ½ pint cherry tomatoes, halved ½ pound chanterelle mushrooms 1 tablespoon honey ½ teaspoon sea salt Cooked white rice (enough for 4 to 6 servings) Optional: soy sauce » Heat oil in a large sauté pan over mediumhigh heat. Add chicken and sauté until cooked.

Remove chicken and set aside. Return pan to heat and sweat onions in butter until translucent; add garlic (be careful not to burn). Add green beans and cook until nearly done. Add squash and cook until tender. Add pineapple, tomatoes and mushrooms and heat through. » Reduce heat and add honey and salt, stirring throughout. If desired, stir in a touch of soy sauce. Adjust seasoning if necessary. Serve over prepared white rice.

Peas and Thank You

O

Simmer the perfect summer side

ONE OF THE MOST humble staples of a summer harvest is also one of its most versatile. Peas may seem simple and diminutive in the scheme of things, but these nutritious field gems are full flavored and can elevate any weeknight meal to new levels.

Any backyard farmer can grow sugar snap peas, early peas or even black-eyed peas. If you have no green thumb to spare, you can find these fresh at farmers markets throughout Indiana and sometimes in grocery store produce aisles during the growing season.

Peas are perfect for canning and freezing for the winter months. Buy in bulk and you can blanch and freeze to create summery meals all year or add to soups and stews on those cold, chilly days in January.

One of the more earthy, full-flavored peas grown in Indiana is the crowder pea.

Also called the cow pea, this small, dark brown pea has a similar taste to black-eyed peas, but when cooked down it produces a thicker, heartier potlikker.

BY TWINKLE VANWINKLE

Sugar snap peas can be shelled or sautéed in the pod in stir fry. Sweet and crunchy, they are also great in salads or straight from the vine.

Black-eyed peas can be blanched and tossed in salads or served solo. But these Southern cousins are meant to simmer on the stove before being ladled delicately over a freshly cut slice of cornbread.

If you’re lucky, you’ll run across the elusive lady pea, a smaller version of the black-eyed pea. These tiny, mint-green jewels are one of summer’s harvest blessings. Creamy and delicate, lady peas are dainty and delicious like no other, retaining their fresh taste even when cooked down for several hours.

Seasoning peas really depends on what dish you are creating, but if you are simmering peas to eat specifically as a side, minimal seasoning is recommended. A little salt and pepper are all you need to bring out the peas’ rich, earthy essence.

RECIPE

Sweet Summer Pea Salad 1 cup fresh blackeyed peas 1 cup fresh early peas or other green peas 1 cup sugar snap peas, chopped ½ cup fresh corn cut off the cob

1 cup radishes, julienned 1 cup carrots, julienned 1 cup chopped baby arugula 2 diced shallots 2 tablespoons mayonnaise

2 tablespoons olive oil 2 tablespoons lemon juice ½ cup red wine vinegar 1 teaspoon salt 1 teaspoon coarse ground black pepper

» Toss all ingredients well and refrigerate at least one hour prior to serving.

Store in air-tight container in refrigerator for up to five days.

FARM INDIANA // AUGUST 2015

55