Visit Uzbekistan Magazine 7th Issue

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UZBEKISTAN Your Favorite Travel Magazine

Where is the real

VISA-FREE

Quran kept?

Uzbekistan

Seven shrines

Ramadan

OF BUKHARA

Food map

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Special Issue 2018 | №7

EDITOR’S NOTE

Founded by

Editor-in-chief Dinara Dultaeva Editor Alina Musyakaeva Project coordinators Islambek Ibragimov, Ekaterina Emirosan Graphic designer Alexander Varlamov Editorial team Farangiz Salakhodjaeva, Muhiddin Abdurasulov, Shohruxbek Olimov, Matlyuba Mustaeva, Abror Masharipov Dinara UZ

@dultaeva

dultaeva

Uzbekistan is a unique country with the most ancient civilizations and cultures, magnificent monuments of history and majestic examples of architecture. Among them are holy places that attract pilgrims from all over the world.

Pilgrimage to Uzbekistan allows you to visit sacred sites that are closely tied the world religions, and have left their marks in Uzbekistan.

In Bukhara you will do the pilgrimage to the holy places of Sufism and pay a visit to the burial places of Seven Sufi Saints, including the mausoleum of Bakhouddin Naqshband, the founder of the Naqshbandi Sufi order. You will remember Samarkand with the necropolis of Shah-i-Zinda, where the cousin of the Prophet Muhammad is buried. You will also travel to Termez, where you will discover the main holy place of this city - the mausoleum of Al-Hakim at-Termizi, the religious leader, scientist and the founder of the dervish order.

Wherever you go, we wish you a pleasant journey and enlighting discoveries.

Dinara Dultaeva

Contributors Ilkham Marupov, Sevara Dultaeva Photography Mukhiddin Alee, Yuriy Korsuncev, Andrew Arakelyan, Ernest Kurtveliev, Vladimir Kovrein, Alokhon Abdullaev Proofreading Ekaterina Naipal COVER Photography Alokhon Abdullaev Visit Uzbekistan magazine N7, Special issue, 2018 Circulation 2.000 Official partner State Committee of the Republic of Uzbekistan for Tourism Development Dinara Media Relations PC Dinara&Co. Trademark Tel.: (+998 93) 500 55 65 www.dinara.co The magazine is registered by Press and Information Agency of Uzbekistan on 12.05.2017. Registration number N 0915 ISSN 2181-9254 Pre-printing works by “Credo Print Group” Itd. Printed by “Credo Print Group”, Bogishamol St., 160, Tashkent, Uzbekistan.

Order № 0148.

All rights reserved. © Dinara&Co. © Dinara Dultaeva

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Contents

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INTERVIEW Uzbekistan opens doors New opportunities in tourism and investment Exclusive interview with Aziz Abdukhakimov, the ะกhairman of the State Committee of the Republic of Uzbekistan for Tourism Development.

LANDMARKS Sacred places of Uzbekistan Discover holy places of the country.

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HERITAGE Main relic of Muslims One of the four copies of the Uthman Quran is in Tashkent.

GALLERY National dress A heritage through centuries Discover the unique items of Uzbek traditional clothing.

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GASTRONOMY Osh Bo’lsin!

Best Ramadan dishes in Uzbekistan

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NATURE Mysterious Uzbekistan Hazrat Daud Cave The richest nature of Uzbekistan reveals its secrets.

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CULTURE Are these the most beautiful textiles in the world?

True beauty of one of country`s treasures.

TRAVEL 3 wonders of Bukhara With more than 140 architectural monuments Bukhara is an “open-air museum”.

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Highlight

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Uzbekistan introduces A VISA-FREE REGIME FOR TRAVELLERS The government of Uzbekistan has announced changes to the country’s visa policy that will provide visa waivers for an expanded list of nationalities, as well as an easing of the visa application process for many others.

Citizens of seven countries will be able to visit Uzbekistan for up to 30 days without a visa. The list includes passport-holders from Israel, Indonesia, South Korea, Malaysia, Singapore, Japan and Turkey. The President of Uzbekistan Shavkat Mirziyoyev signed a decree granting the visa waivers as part of a larger effort to promote tourism to the country.

Additionally, requirements for the visa application process have been eased for citizens of 39 countries, including several EU member states, Asian and Middle Eastern countries, as well as India, New Zealand,

Canada and the US. Citizens of these countries will no longer have to present a letter of invitation to receive a visa, and embassies will issue visas within two working days.

Finally, in July 2018, Uzbekistan implements a new e-visa scheme to further simplify this process. Travellers will be able to submit their application documents online, and visas will be issued at the airport upon arrival. The changes come as several Central Asian countries have banded together to provide mutual travel schemes within the region, including visa waivers between Tajikistan and Uzbekistan.

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A 30-day visa-free regime for citizens of 7 countries Israel

Republic of Korea

Indonesia

Singapore

Turkey

Malaysia

Japan

Countries with which a simplified visa procedure: Australia

Ireland

Monaco

Serbia

Albania

Iceland

Netherlands

Slovakia

Andorra

Canada

New Zealand

Slovenia

Bulgaria

China

Norway

USA

Bosnia and Herzegovina

Kuwait

United Arabv Emirates

Finland

Vatican

Lithuania

Oman

Croatia

Hungary

Liechtenstein

Portugal

Montenegro

Greece

Luxembourg

Romania

Sweden

Denmark

Macedonia

San marino

Estonia

India

Malta

Saudi Arabia

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Interview

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Uzbekistan opens doors New opportunities in tourism and investment

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Chairman of the State Committee of the Republic of Uzbekistan for Tourism Development Aziz Abdukhakimov in his exclusive interview to Visit Uzbekistan reveals the investment opportunities of Uzbekistan, discloses bilateral relations with the Republic of Turkey and plans for the development of the country’s tourism industry.

What is the demand for tourism services of Uzbekistan?

Which areas are the most / least popular among foreigners today?

Today, we can observe a high demand for tourist destinations of Uzbekistan. This situation, first of all, is connected with the state policy of openness initiated by the President Shavkat Mirziyoyev and the government. In previous years, the number of foreign tourists from far abroad to Uzbekistan was about 200-210 thousand people. In 2018, we plan to increase this number to 350 thousand people. By 2020, the target is to reach half a million visitors.

Even though the most popular destination among foreign citizens is heritage tourism, in recent years more and more tourists are interested in religious destinations (ziyorat or pilgrimage tourism). In particular, the pilgrimage tourism could become in the short term the most popular destination for both domestic and inbound tourism.

So that, Uzbekistan remains a historical center of heritage of four world religions: Islam, Christianity, Judaism and Buddhism. If we speak about this direction in detail, we mean not only a pilgrimage (hajj) to Islamic monuments and shrines, but also an ancestor worship. For instance, the residents of Israel visit Bukhara, Samarkand, Shakhrisabz to pay tribute to their ancestors who lived in these territories. So, tourists from South Korea, Japan visit historical monuments of Buddhist culture preserved in Surkhandarya region and the Fergana Valley.

We should go a long way towards creating comfortable conditions for tourists in airports, railway and bus stations, and

STATE BENEFITS AND PREFERENCES IN THE SPHERE OF TOURISM Today, within the priority directions of development of Uzbekistan until 2022 there are a number of benefits and preferences for entrepreneurs who are already or are planning to conduct business in the sphere of tourism.

Tax exemption For instance, business entities are exempted from VAT on tourist and excursion services, income tax, land tax, property tax, and unified tax payment when opening hotels and motels (at least 4 stars) for a period of 5 years.

Large hospitality industries are able to have a unified tax payment with a staff of less than 100 people.

Elimination of duties Legal entities are exempted from customs payments (except for duties for customs registration) for imported equipment, machinery, component parts, spare parts and materials not produced in the Republic of Uzbekistan for the construction and reconstruction of hotels and motels.

Benefits for investors Private foreign investors are also provided with benefits in terms of paying corporate income tax, property tax, tax on betterment and development of social infrastructure, unified tax payment for micro- and small enterprises, as well as compulsory contributions to the Republican Road Fund.

The specified tax benefits are given at volume of foreign direct private investments: • from 300 thousand US dollars to 3 million US dollars - for a period of 3 years; • over 3 million US dollars to 10 million US dollars - for a period of 5 years; • over 10 million US dollars - for a period of 7 years.

Crediting Business entities are granted long-term credits with a flexible repayment schedule for up to 15 years for the construction of new and upgrading existing hotels and other tourist infrastructure facilities.

Social charges Until January 2022, hotels are completely exempted from payment of unified social payment of the wage fund of qualified foreign specialists, attracted as management personnel. Foreign specialists are also exempt from income tax.

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Interview

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decree “On additional organizational measures to create favorable conditions for the development of the tourism potential of the Republic of Uzbekistan”? How does the visa-free regime help to increase the tourist flow from Israel, Indonesia, the Republic of Korea, Malaysia, Singapore, Turkey and Japan?

This decree has significantly simplified many administrative procedures and eliminated the costs of translations of the documentation, visa fees, postal services for tourists who plan to stay in the country for no more than 30 days. Now foreign citizens can fully enjoy their stay in Uzbekistan.

hotels. This aim involves the creation of ablution points (tahorat), prayer rooms for pilgrimage tourists. Also we should establish a network of hotels, taking into account religious traditions and customs marking them as “ziyorat-hotels”. For catering points, the introduction of a voluntary system of certification of tourism industry objects by halal, kosher standards with the appropriation of a corresponding mark of distinction is foreseen.

In addition to the two main directions in tourism, we can distinguish ethno tourism, ecotourism, gastronomic and extreme tourism, agrotourism and health ones.

What are the challenges and prospects in tourism industry of Uzbekistan today?

It should be noted that we faced with several challenges in the sphere of tourism, which must be addressed as soon as possible.

Firstly, the tourism infrastructure needs further improvement.

Today, there are not enough places for foreign guests (hotel complexes, pensionates, hostels, guest houses), public eating places (restaurants, cafes, canteens, bars), transport facilities and logistics centers.

Secondly, it is necessary to develop service level, therefore many public places attract foreign specialists.

Thirdly, it is necessary to develop human resources. Today we see an insufficient number of professionally-trained guide-interpreters and travel agents in the country, and we are doing our best to improve this situation significantly.

Currently, the State Committee of the Republic of Uzbekistan for Tourism Development is preparing a proposal for stimulating the construction of new hotels. Within the framework of targeted state support land plots were allocated to entrepreneurs, additional tax benefits and preferences were granted, practical and consulting assistance is provided in obtaining the necessary documentation for the construction of engineering and utility networks.

On this occasion, I would like to invite investors, those who are interested in construction of hotels and creation of transport companies providing services in transport logistics and the creation of theme parks. We are ready to work on the principle of “single window” for all potential investors to implement investment projects in the tourism industry.

In your opinion, what changes have happened in the industry since the signing in February 2018 of the new presidential

Over the past 9 months since you have been appointed as chairman of the State Committee of the Republic of Uzbekistan for Tourism Development, we see a number of positive innovations in the industry. Where do you get your ideas and inspiration from? Are you inspired by foreign experience? If yes, which country interests you the most?

All positive changes in the industry are initiated by the President of Uzbekistan and the government, as well as by a large number of specialists involved in the tourism industry - the staff of the State Committee of the Republic of Uzbekistan for Tourism Development and the representatives of the tourism industry. All the stakeholders (representatives of state bodies, clergy, travel agencies, foreign consultants - Turkey, Japan, Georgia) understand the importance of the development of the tourism industry and aim at the result. The sphere of tourism is one of the profitable sectors in the country’s economy, which directly affects the GDP growth, income level and employment of population.

We try to get the most productive experience and knowledge from representatives of different countries, and use them in reforming the national tourism industry.

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11 ists of potential threats, and promote the protection of their rights and legitimate interests. Uzbekistan is one of the safest countries in the world, and we support and develop this image.

How do the relations between Uzbekistan and Turkey develop in terms of tourism? (give successful examples of joint cooperation).

What is the main challenge for you as a leader of such a largescale and at the same time promising sector as tourism?

To date, staff training for tourism industry remains a topical issue. A rapid leap in the construction of hotels, entertainment complexes and cultural centers requires the training of professional personnel in a short term, therefore experts are involved as consultants and professors of specialized universities. We are trying to attract such people to the country.

What measures the government is taking to develop the tourist infrastructure (transport services, communications, catering and residential facilities, security, recreational areas, health facilities, etc.)?

First of all, comprehensive measures for the development are being taken, as well as regional programs for the development of tourism. Decree of the President, the Cabinet of Ministers, as well as the government’s protocol decisions were adopted and cover all areas: from security issues to infrastructure. These programs include several sections. The first section deals with organizational issues, the second - the development of infrastructure, the third - the promotion of tourism potential of the country through various activities, as well as work with the media, both local and foreign.

I would like to mention one benefit: the creation and construction of theme parks, it is a modern trend that covers more and more new countries which are concerned with the development of tourism. Today, a tourist wants more than just an acquaintance with architectural monuments: he dreams to dive into a unique world, he waits for a show, that would help him understand and get to know a country closely.

Uzbekistan has everything to create such interesting theme parks. For instance, near Samarkand, it is possible to recreate the military camp of Amir Temur, based on hid manuscript.

Some key moments of this publication can be recreated in the park with the help of amusement rides, a costume theatrical show. At the same time, guests may also become participants of the events. We can create a lot of workshops, but they craftsmen could produce souvenirs and sell to tourists.

I would like to mention the security issue for foreign guests of the country. In Tashkent, Bukhara, Samarkand, Khorezm regions, safer tourism institutions have been set up, and a similar structure is being created in Surkhandarya region. All the employees are fluent in foreign languages. In addition, situation centers will monitor the state of tourism security, inform tour-

We closely cooperate with our Turkish colleagues. The relations between the State Committee of the Republic of Uzbekistan for Tourism Development and the Ministry of Culture and Tourism of Turkey are established, we cooperate with all public organizations involved in the tourism industry: the Istambul Chamber of Commerce, the Turkish Cooperation and Coordination Agency, the Association of Turkish Travel Agencies (TURSAB), the Hotel Association of Turkey (TÜROB) , the Turkish Tourism Investors Association (TYD).

The Committee has a specialist with many years of tourism development experience in Turkey, Sadik Badak, who assists in the improvement of our long-term plan. He is a professional in this field, traveled all over Uzbekistan and proposed major changes in legislation, the development of a new law on tourism and investment, taking into account Turkey’s experience. We created a database of e-mail addresses, this is more than 4,000 representatives of the tourism sector, and we constantly send information about Uzbekistan: changes in legislation, investment opportunities, tourism products - this allows us to maintain feedback. We are ready for active and fruitful cooperation, affecting all areas of tourist activities.

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landmarks

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Saint Daniel’s Tomb, Samarkand

Secret Sacred PLACES OF UZBEKISTAN

Uzbekistan has many sacred places on its fertile land. One of such places is a Mausoleum of St. Daniel (Daniyar, Daniel) in Samarkand, which unites three world religions: Islam, Christianity and Judaism. The Mausoleum is known as one of the most revered and controversial pilgrimage destinations in the world.

The mosque and the grave of the Saint are based on the shore of the Siab River and dated back to Amir Temur reign. The Mausoleum was built only in 1900.

The grave reaches 18 meters in length. There are several versions that can explain this fact. The burial place was specially made so large that no one knew where exactly the relics of the saint lay and could not plunder the shrine.

According to a legend, the relics were brought by Amir Temur from Susa, a small city in Iran. The commander refused to attack the city having learned about St. Daniel, Old Testament Jewish Prophet.

Taking the remains of the Saint’s tomb for Samarkand protection, Temur returned in the city and built a Mausoleum from the north side of Afrosiab.

At the footage of the mausoleum, you could see an old dried pistachio tree, which was replanted in 1996, after the visit of Russian Patriarch Alexy II. Going down the stairs to the head of the mausoleum, you can drink from the healing source and make a wish.

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Deggaroniy Mosque, Navoi An ancient mosque and a burial place of the theologian and educator of the 14th century Mavlono Orif Dеggaroniy is located near Hazara in Navoi region. According to the legend, during the spring flood the residents of the village ran out of their houses shouting for help. Then Deggaroniy went to the river bank and said: “If you can, please leave our place. What do you gain by destroying the dwellings of these people?” Afterwards the stream of water suddenly stopped, and the glory of Deggaroniy spread throughout the world. It was said that Deggaroniy could heal people.

The work of the mentor of Khoja Bahauddin Naqshbandi was a great example of spiritual development and improvement. A true humanist brought the teaching of Sufism to a new level, enriching it with new philosophical ideas. He paid a great attention to moral education of the individual. He spent the last few years of his life in the modest Sufi monastery “khanqah”, which became a place of pilgrimage during his lifetime.

People from all over the world visit memorial complex named after Mavlono Orif Deggaroniy to pay tribute to the memory of the saint and personally see the miraculously

Holy spring Chashma, Nurota Navoi region has another miracle – the sacred complex “Chashma”, which is located in one of the religious centres of Islam – the city of Nurota.

According to the legend, 40 thousand years ago a meteorite, which emitted light, fell here. On the site of the fall, a crater formed and scored a miraculous spring with healing properties. Local residents considered this as God’s gift – the ray “nur”, which illuminated this region. Hence the name of the city of Nurota was born. Directly above the source is the round mosque Juma. In this building, there are exactly 40 columns and good acoustics, thanks to the large “hum” pitchers, which give a resonant effect. A dome about 16 meters in diameter is one of the largest and most beautiful in Central Asia. Here Sheikh Abul Hasan Nuriy had come to this from Arabic countries, who brought Islam to the inhabitants of the veld. In addition to the source and the Juma Mosque, the complex includes a bathhouse built by

preserved architectural monument. The architectural complex includes a “khanqah”, Mavlono Orif’s tomb, a chillyahona (place of worship), a museum, a well with holy water.

The Deggaron mosque is a brick mosque with nine domes, towering over the veld, fascinates with its own identity. The inner prayer room has a cubic shape, and in the centre there are four columns, forming high white arches with geometric molding. The architectural building dates back to the 7th – 9th centuries.

Bukhara masters at the beginning of the 20th century, and the ancient Panjwakt mosque is the oldest building on the territory of the complex built in the 16th century. Thousands of pilgrims from all over the Muslim world come to pray in this holy place.

The water temperature is constant, and holds at around 19.5 degrees Celsius. Every day from early morning to almost 10 am the glow is observed in the source, possibly due to the presence of a multitude of trace elements, including gold, silver, iodine, bromine, phosphorus, etc. Thanks to the silver presence in the water, it does not deteriorate even during prolonged storage and is beneficial for the human body.

Travellers never pass by a source without drawing water.

Near the source there is a well “Besh Pandzhi” “five fingers” or “palm” about 6 m deep, which resembles a huge palm.

The walls of the well are laid with untreated stones, and in the crevices garmala grows, the branches of which are tied with ribbons, or scraps of cloth.

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Zangi Ota Mausoleum, Tashkent region One more place is associated with the name of the great commander, which belongs to the most significant works of regional architecture dated back to late 14th and 15th centuries. Amir Temur paid great attention to the development of his state, culture and enlightenment. Under his initiative, in 1390 Zangi Ota mausoleum was built in a settlement located 15 kilometers south-west of Tashkent. Later, during the reign of his grandson Ulugbek, an ornamental peshtak, the central entrance, was built to the mausoleum. Nowadays it is an architectural and religious complex that unites, the shrine of the saint, a huge garden, a madrassa, a memorial mosque and a minaret.

Zangi Ota is the nickname of the holy Sheikh Ai-Khoja, the

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fifth Murid of the great Sufi, Khoja Ahmad Yassawi, and the spiritual student of the famous poet-mystic Suleiman Khaki-ata Bakyrgani. For his skin colour, he was nicknamed Zangi Ota – “Dark Father”, and the real name of the saint is AikhodzhaIbn Tashkhodja ibn Mansur. Zangi Ota was a shepherd and was known not only as a fine theologian, but also as an unsurpassed sage, highly respectable.

A hundred meters from the mausoleum of Zangi Ota is another cult place of the memorial complex – the mausoleum of Anbar-bibi, wife and associate of the famous Sufi. According to a legend, Zangi-ata bequeathed to the parishioners first to visit the tomb of his wife and only then to come to him himself. Anbar-bibi is considered as the patroness of women and children.

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Al-Māturīdī Mausoleum, Samarkand The mausoleum of the famous Islamic theologian, the expert of Fiqh and the interpreter of the Koran Abū Mansūr al-Māturīdī is located in the central part of Samarkand.

He was buried in Chokardiza cemetery, where, according to the legend, more than 3,000 scholar-theologians were buried. The mausoleum was built there and it was of deference among the townspeople. But in the 1930s of the 20th century the mausoleum was destroyed.

In 2000 in honor of 1225 anniversary of the scholar’s birth the architectural complex was newly constructed. The mausoleum of Abū Mansūr al-Māturīdī is in the center of the complex.

The square of the mausoleum is 12x12 meters. Its high reaches 17,5 meters. The dome is made of two lays. The outside lay is decorated with blue majolica. The barrel is faced with 24 arches and window grids, named pandjara.

The tomb is made of white marble. And here on the tomb you can read the sayings of al-Māturīdī.

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MAIN RELIC OF MUSLIMS

ONE OF THE FOUR COPIES OF THE UTHMAN QURAN IS IN TASHKENT

Annually hundreds of thousands of believers from many countries of the world visit Tashkent. The reason for this is not only the rich history and architecture of the region, but also the sacred manuscript - the Uthman Quran.

The Uthman Quran was compiled by the third caliph or Muslim leader Uthman in Medina.

Quran was written by hand, so that it could be preserved as a single document as prior to this it was memorized so it was important to have a written copy so the message was documented to avoid any dispute or doubt as to the correctness of the Quran. It was written on deer skin.

The story of how the Uthman Quran came to Tashkent is a remarkable one. After Uthman’s death it is believed it was taken by Caliph Ali to Kufa, in modern Iraq. Seven hundred years later, when the Central Asian conqueror, Tamerlane, laid waste to the region, he found the Quran and took it home to grace his splendid capital, Samarkand.

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It stayed there for more than four centuries, until the Russians conquered Samarkand in the 1868. The Russian governor then sent the Uthman Quran to St Petersburg where it was kept in the Imperial Library.

But after the Bolshevik revolution, Lenin sent the Quran to Ufa in modern Bashkortostan. But finally, after repeated appeals from the Muslims of Tashkent, it was returned once more to Central Asia in 1924. It has remained in Tashkent ever since. In England, Turkey and Egypt there are separate pages of the four Qurans. The library where the Quran is kept is in an area of old Tashkent known as Hast-Imam, well off the beaten track for most visitors to this city.

It lies down a series of dusty lanes, near the grave of a 10th century scholar, Kaffel-Shashi. The Mufti of Uzbekistan, the country’s highest religious leader, has his offices there, in the courtyard of an old madrassa.

Just across the road stands a non-descript mosque and the equally unremarkable Mui-Mubarak, or “Sacred Hair”, madrassa, which houses a rarely seen hair of the Muslim Prophet Muhammad, as well as one of Central Asia’s most important collections of historical works.

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Leisure

THE ART OF

FALCONRY

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In ancient times, birds of prey were not only hunters and companions of noblemen, but were also used in the branch of state diplomacy, as a precious gift and a sign of favour. And today Uzbekistan is rightly considered as the centre for falconry in Central Asia. Traditions that date far back into past centuries have been carefully guarded and cultivated as a way of preserving nature and biodiversity.

Photo submitted by Tugan Falconry Club www.tugan.uz

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ince ancient times, using hunting birds has been a part of the tradition of the Uzbek people. Falconry in Uzbekistan has a long history and a wealth of traditions, proved by numerous historical sources. The history of falconry in Central Asia is rooted deep in centuries past. Archaeological discoveries have even provided evidence to the existence of this tradition

in Uzbekistan as early as 4 BC. One such case is when archaeologists unearthed the ring of a lord, that had the likeness of a man and a falcon etched on it. Legend tells us that the owner of this ring was considered invincible and that it was impossible to attack his land or to harm him.

The talented commander, Amir Temur, encouraged his warriors to hunt with birds of prey. He would even participate in the hunt on his rare days of recreation, as he had his own exceptionally trained golden eagle. The emirs’ favourite leisure and passion while falcon hunting is beautifully depicted in the artistic miniature poems of Alisher Navoiy: “The Turmoil of the Righteous”, “Farhad and Shirin”, “Leila and Majnun”, “The Seven Planets”, “Iskandar’s Wall” and “The Language of Birds”. One of the documents, which is preserved in the Bodleian library at The University of Oxford, illustrates the scene “Expecting Guests”, in which the courtiers stand with a falcon, dressed in a special gilded attire and fairest leather harness. The document also illustrates a golden diamond helm which is adorned with owl feathers, a silver bell, and a glove specifically crafted for those who interact with hunting birds.

Falconry is not simply the art of hunting game in their natural environment, but an interaction with living nature. The possibility of direct contact with hunting bird and observing its spectacular flight is a breathtaking experience. This dramatic and captivating act attracts the attention of this marvel’s true connoisseurs.

This can be experienced by anyone who wishes to comprehend the ancient secrets of falconry. Those who have at least once, been on the hunt, who have witnessed a falcon chase its prey, seen its pirouettes, its lightningfast dive - they will never be able to forget these remarkable sights. Those who have held a bird of prey on their arm, who have earned its trust and obedience – they can truly feel at one with nature.

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gallery

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National headdress A HERITAGE THROUGH CENTURIES Doppi-tyubeteika is one of the symbols of Uzbekistan. This is not just a beautiful hat, it is also a kind of “passport� of its owner. By the shape of the headdress, by its color, it is possible to determine the region of the owner, the age and the status in society. We offer you a little tour of some of the interesting examples of Uzbek doppi.

Photo by Vladimir Kovrein

Bukhara The patterns embroidered on the lacing with a golden thread indicate a high social status of the owner or sacred events.

The headdress is usually round or tetrahedral with floral or geometric patterns, with fringes and elegant brushes, and gold embroidery gives the headdress colorfulness and solemnity.

Samarkand Samarkand headdress is patterned with rosette in the form of a pointed star, ribbed, large and elongated, similar in shape of a pyramid.

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Boysun

Chust

Each color combination of fragments has a special sacred meaning. The white element is the sheep’s horns, the “kochkorak”, the yellow one – “pahtagul”, the flower of cotton, the sides with white and diamond-shaped - “pahta”, cotton itself. A headdress has a rather high rim. At the bottom it adorns a special strip – jiak, that has a magical meaning, it is a guard against evil forces, so it goes over the headband of the rim, as if protecting the head from all sides.

Chust head-dress is very popular in many regions of Uzbekistan, especially in the Ferghana Valley. It is characterized by a black background and white pattern depicted in the form of four pods of pepper – “kalampir”. The band is embroidered in small arches settled in the row. There are three kinds of duppi – rounded, roundly tetrahedral and the extended up cap. Chust duppis are remarkable for “slope” of the ornament (full almonds with short and sharply bent tendrils) and a significant height of the band.

Khiva

Shakhrisabz

A distinctive feature of the headdress is its flat bottom and a wide canvas decorated with a brush. Tyubeteikas for men and women have a common shape, although female ones are sewn from expensive fabrics and decorated with small details.

Shahrisabz tyubeteika is the most original multicolor headdress embroidered in the shape of a flowering bush on a solid background of carpet type.

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gastronomy

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OSH BO’LSIN! Best Ramadan dishes in Uzbekistan Text by Bahiriddin Chusty Photo by Andrew Arakelyan

Traveling during the holy month of Ramadan, believers often worry about whether there is a suitable way to fast. In Uzbekistan this trip can be comfortable, as well as pleasant” feast of taste and abundance”. Restaurateur, brand-chef, “Uzbek Jamie Oliver”, the author of the «365 days of Sun» culinary journey book, creator of national cuisine Bahriddin Chusty shares the traditional dishes to serve during Ramadan.

MASTAVA

DATES Dates are a staple on Ifthar tables during Ramadan.

Prophet Muhammad’s humble Ifthar table always had dates. At Ifthar time, Prophet Muhammad used to break his fast with either a few fresh or dried dates or a sip of water. If there are no dates on the Ifthar table, the evening meal begins with water, salt, sweets and grapes. At autumn seasonal fruits like melons and gourds are put on the table.

Mastava is loved and revered throughout Uzbekistan, in every home. It is a sort of “healing soup”, which can give you energy for the whole day. Transparent broth with meat balls and soft boiled rice is exactly what is lacking in the usual supper during Ramadan Hayit.

Mastava served with katyk (thick yogurt) and a sprig of basil is a surprisingly good combination.

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SAMSA

NISHOLDA Uzbeks are known for being very hard working since ancient times so there are very few holidays here. But, because there are so few, each one is celebrated sincerely and on a grand scale. During the holy month of Ramadan people eat a special sweet called nisholda each day after fasting. It is made from egg whites, sugar and “soap root” (licorice root). Thanks to this plant, the “dessert” turns a little stringy and thick.

Tashkent lives by traditions. If the whole world got used to starting the dinner with the first course, Uzbeks break this stereotype, along with tea and leisurely conversation Uzbeks first serve samsa. Samsa can be a great appetizer and can also be served as an independent dish. In Uzbekistan, samsa is usually prepared with lamb filling, but now in every corner of our country, you can find samsa with various fillings. Green filling is popular during the spring, pumpkin filling - in autumn. In Tashkent, you can find more creative versions – samsa with mushrooms, cheese and tomatoes, as well as other vegetables. Different regions have their own special method of cooking samsa. For example, in Parkent (Tashkent region) during the spring season samsa is prepared in the form of an envelope, and is often stuffed with herbs and grasses.

PLOV

Only in Uzbekistan, plov is served not only for Ifthar, but also for suhoor. At this time, the meal should be very nutritious, saturated with protein, not salty, with a minimum of spices and not fried, and keeps the strength for the whole day. So that, plov which is prepared for this hour should be special.

Plov is put in the center of the festive table. There are thousands of recipes of this dish, but its distinctive feature is the combination of two indispensable parts: the so-called “zirvak” and rice, and the main difference between plov and other dishes is the cooking technology.

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book preview

VISIT UZBEKISTAN

10 REASONS TO VISIT UZBEKISTAN 304 pages / 250 photos Language: Russian, English Circulation: 3000 units Printing: Turkey

On 304 highly visual pages the book presents masterpieces of photography some specially made for the project, others taken from the 15 years long archives. More than 250 works of the prominent photographer Ernest Kurtveliev reflect an extraordinary atmosphere, picturesque nature and marvellous architecture of Uzbekistan, as well as authentic lifestyle of its openhearted people.

Preview and order: uzbekistanbook.dinara.co For wholesale orders call +998 (93) 390-00-98 “Knijniy mir� Bookstore Tashkent: +998 (71) 252 74 99

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365 DAYS OF SUN Your gastronomic journey to the world of plov, samsa and thousands of other delicacies.

365 pages / 230 photos Language: Russian and English Circulation: 2000 units VIP version: 100 units Printing: Turkey

If you have ever tried plov, but not in Uzbekistan - you did not try the real plov. If you left Uzbekistan without having tried the masterpieces Uzbekistan’s “Jamie Oliver” Bahriddin Chustiy - you need a ticket back to Tashkent.

But there is luckily a second option, the first Uzbek foodguide “365 Days of Sun”. This book has become famous far beyond Uzbekistan and is a great opportunity to enjoy the flavour of spices, the taste of roast meat and the softness of flour delicacies.

Preview and order: 365days.dinara.co For wholesale orders call +998 (93) 390-00-98 +998 (71) 252-74-99

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Visit Landmark

VISIT UZBEKISTAN

Great Islamic Shrine:

Bahauddin Naqshband The Memorial Complex of Khoja Bahauddin Naqshband is one of the most important Muslim shrines. The great theologian of the 14th century, founder of the Sufi Order “Naqshbandi� was buried 12 km from Bukhara in his native village of Kasri Orifon.

Bahauddin was born in 1318 in the village of Qasr-i-Hinduvan, near Bukhara, the father of the future Sufi confessor was an artisan. Unfortunately, historians know little about his life, since he forbade his students to record his deeds

and sermons. Most of the annals were created after his death and lost many facts and events.

However, it is known that Bahauddin took interest in Sufism from his grandfather. His first spiritual teacher was Muhammad Babayi Simashi, who later sent him to continue studies to Sheikh Sayyid Amir Kulalu. Shaykh, in turn, seeing the seriousness of the aspirations of the young Bahauddin, introduced him into the Sufi Order of the Dervish Khojagan.

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Already formed as a spiritual teacher, Naqshband called for simplicity and unpretentiousness in his sermons, but rejected asceticism and solitude.

He was a supporter of worldly life, which best shapes the human personality, speaking out against showy piety and theatrical ritual, forty-day posts, loud dhikr (prayer) and vagrancy.

Comprehending the Sufi wisdom, Bahauddin did not accept the dervishes’ way of life and did not live as a tramp and beg for alms, on the contrary he completely immersed himself in real life. He wove a wonderful silk fabric “kamha”, was an excellent metal carver, for which he received his nickname – Naqshband, which actually means “metal carver”. Following his example, the followers of Naqshbandi stopped living as a tramp and began to earn a living by craft.

According to legend, Naqshbandi was to meet his spiritual teacher in the Order of the dervishes.

And this happened. One day, Bahauddin got acquainted with a dervish named Khalil. Naqshband became a student of Khalil, and six years later his teacher accepted the Order of the ruler of the District. Remained at the court of Sultan Khalil, Bahauddin received the right to use the huge palace library and dived himself in the manuscripts of Muslim theologians.

However, Naqshband rejected luxury and soon he left the palace and moved to the village of Rivatun near Bukhara. After living there for a while,

the theologian began to get ready for pilgrimage to holy places – Mecca and Medina. The journey was long and Naqshband returned only after 3 years.

Bahauddin returned fully strengthened in his faith, henceforth his ideals were absolute spiritual purity, a detachment from luxury and greed. The theologian began to actively preach, and according to his teaching, the true Sufi simply had to follow the Sunnah and all the rules of the Sharia. Being a spiritual follower of the Gijduvani feast, Naqshbandi developed and perfected the teachings of the Order of Khojagan and soon formed 11 rules of prayer meditation and developed a special method of breathing.

Initially, only the townspeople interested in the teachings of Naqshbandi, but very quickly its authority extended to the tribes of nomads who spread the ideas of stylish Islam throughout Central Asia. Very soon, the teaching gained popularity in the Ottoman Turkey, the Muslim Volga region and

even in India. A special image of the followers of the order was the image of the heart, inscribed in the middle of the name of Allah.

From year to year the authority of the order grew, as well as ties with the secular authorities, the political activity of the brotherhood increased, and the opinion of the sheikh Naqshband became very significant even for the rulers of the powerful Asian states.

Throughout his life, Bahauddin Naqshband confirmed the righteousness of his chosen path, multiplying the role of religion in the life of society and doing good deeds in the name of Allah.

His high sanctity and piety helped to name Bukhara as “The Dome of Islam in the East”, and he himself was ranked among the saints and recognized as the patron of this blessed city in which his whole life passed.

From 1544 on the site of the repose of Bahauddin Naqshband a majestic mausoleum rises.

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shopping

VISIT UZBEKISTAN

Matlyuba Mustaeva

Uzbek Suzani

Y

ou may know those beautifully embroidered textiles called suzani, but you may miss its origin. Central Asian countries, especially Uzbekistan, is a place where suzani, the needle work, was born.

Traditionally, it is a cotton or silk fabric base named ‘adras’ embroidered in silk or cotton thread. It was made by Uzbek brides as a part of their dowry, and you could find it in every house, hanging on the wall as a panel.

So, it is really a good idea to get your own piece and take it home as a part of this colorful land! Of course, if you are somewhere in Bukhara there is no problem to find it – you will see hundreds of souvenir shops along your way and can choose whatever you like, but Tashkent is a bit different story. You have to go and hunt for your treasure!

Chorsu Station, Chapan Bazar Location: Beruniy Street Chorsu Bazaar. “The old city” is another name for your destination. This biggest and oldest market in the city can offer whatever you like: fresh baked bread, juicy seasonal fruits or different craftsman art. The bazaar is quite well organized and divided into parts. So, if you are after suzani you have to find ‘Chapan Bazaar’ where all the souvenirs, national clothing, ceramics and other handmade stuff are being sold. You will definitely have an authentic experience with locals, some language difficulties and adventure of finding out your own truth. A shopper will surely try to sell you every needled item as a piece of the highest art and charge you the most.

However! If you are ready to play this game and practice your “bargain skills” you may get some really nice suzani from Bukhara, Nurota or Samarqand for the best price in the city!

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ART BOX Location: 103, Zarqaynar Street, near Hazrati Imam Complex

This multibrand store is full of finest local art and handmade textiles, ceramics, clothing etc. You can find all varieties of suzani from different parts of the country: shop assistants will explain you all the differences in good English.

The prices are fixed and may be higher than in the bazaars, but the service and comfort you get is totally worth it.

Madina Kasimbaeva Showroom Location: 103, Zarqaynar Street, near Hazrati Imam Complex

AUTOGRAPH Location: 1 Atatyurk Street, Mirabad disctrict, Tashkent city

Madina Kasimbaeva is an acclaimed artist of embroidery and is famous for her extraordinary contribution to Uzbek applied art traditions. In fact, she is the one who has restored Tashkent suzani technique which was almost lost by the 19th century. You can find suzanis on the walls, pillowcases, chapans, shoes, bags and more.

AUTOGRAPH is a gallery of modern art of Uzbekistan, located in the center of Tashkent City, close to the Alisher Navoi State Academic Bolshoi Theatre. In the AUTOGRAPH art gallery, you can buy original artworks like paintings, jewelry, modern art, original gifts, interior design items and many other things. And our main focus which is exclusive suzani pieces are well presented there too.

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Nature

VISIT UZBEKISTAN

Mysterious Uzbekistan Hazrat Daud Cave

Special Issue 2018 | â„–7

In the southwestern part of Uzbekistan, near Samarkand, in Aksay village, there is a cave of St. David (Hazrat Daud).

Text and photo by Sharof Egamberdiev The cave of Hazrat Daud is believed to fulfill any, even the most incredible desire. To get to it you need to mount 1303 steps, plunging up to the mountain peak. There, at the top, you can pray at the ancient mosque. Then you need to go down 200 steps to the cave of Hazrat Daud.

Not every pilgrim is able to climb up about 2000 steps. The locals offer a donkey or horse to climb the mountain. Along the whole length of the stairs there are shopping stalls trading water, officinal mountain herbs, skins of wild animals and different souvenirs.

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Culture

VISIT UZBEKISTAN

ARE THESE THE MOST BEAUTIFUL

TEXTILES IN THE WORLD?

I, as an art critic, have seen a lot of different kinds of art. But, I swear: If I could see only one kind of art for the rest of my life, it’s easy. Textiles. Uzbekistani textiles. No question about it.

The two kinds of Uzbekistani – or really, Central Asian – textiles I like most are suzanis and ikat. Suzanis are embroidered with silk or cotton with bright-colored motifs that include carnations, pomegranates, irises, tulips and discs denoting the sun or moon. They’re stunning – somehow relaxed, improvised, aerated – yet also dreamily, transcendently elegant. They’re everything Henri Matisse was trying to achieve, just in colored thread.

Sebastian Smee Reprinted from www.washingtonpost.com

What is ikat?

Ikat textiles alloy brilliant, saturated color with mesmerizing patterns. You can tell them by the blur or “bleed” around the edges of their gorgeous designs. It’s as though Gerhard Richter had decided to paint a Persian carpet with one of his giant squeegees, or as though your TV went briefly haywire in the middle of a documentary about fruit orchards. Ikat’s distinctive look is the product of a sophisticated technique that involves designers, binders,

weavers and, above all, dyers. The technique developed in the late 18th century in the ancient Silk Road city of Bukhara, in what today is Uzbekistan.

Bukhara occupies a fertile oasis surrounded by orchards and fields — natural features that surely inspired the abstracted motifs in ikat designs. It spread north and east to Samarkand, Tashkent and the Fergana Valley. This art is still flourishing in

Special Issue 2018 | №7

Fergana Valley, especially in Margilan city, a centre of ikat technique.

To appreciate ikat, you don’t need to understand how they’re made. But, as with any art form, having an idea enhances the experience. The key thing — the thing that makes ikat unusual — is that when the cloth is stretched on the warp, it already holds a pattern, even before any weft is applied.

How? The process starts with bundles of silk yarn. Before being dropped in a dye bath, these bundles are bound in the places the dyers want to protect, so that only the unbound parts absorb the dye. After dying, the bindings are removed and new ones placed elsewhere on the same bundle, which is then submerged in the next dye bath — a different color. This process is repeated according to a preordained design worked out earlier when the yarn was stretched on a frame.

The whole process can take weeks or months.

Conceptually — and logistically, too — it’s complex. What’s more, the silk is slippery and difficult to handle. Many things can go wrong.

In Central Asia, ikat textiles carry a lot of prestige — not only, you feel, because the technique is labor- intensive and expensive, but because the results are so insanely beautiful. In Uzbekistan and other parts of Central Asia, ikat coats, called chapan or khalat, were — and continue to be — worn by men, as well as by women, in large part to signify wealth and rank.

The ikat technique of binding segments of bundles of yarn and resist dyeing is known in Central Asia as “abrbandi,” a Persian term that can be translated as “binding the clouds.”

A beautiful notion. No wonder the Textile Museum used it in the title of their show.

Dyeing and weaving are among the greatest of human achievements. We wear clothes made from woven fabrics every day, so we take it for granted. But when you see what is involved in a technique like ikat — the number of complex steps it takes to get from the cocoons of silk worms fed on mulberries to vats of high quality, colorfast dye obtained from rare and unlikely-sounding sources, and from there to sturdy fabrics that ripple and shimmer, protecting and adorning our bodies or walls — it is hard not to marvel.

By Sebastian Smee, a Pulitzer Prize-winning art critic at The Washington Post and the author of “The Art of Rivalry: Four Friendships, Betrayals and Breakthroughs in Modern Art."

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Travel

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“Sacred Bukhara” – is one of the numerous epithets which was awarded to this ancient city.

Referring to the holiness of the land of Bukhara there was a saying: “If anywhere in the world the light comes from above, in Bukhara, it streams out of the earth”. Boasting a different mosque for every day of the year, drawing the finest minds of the East with its cultural and commercial vitality, the city well deserved the title Bukhara the Holy. It is an architectural preserve, full of madrassas, minarets, a massive royal fortress and the remnants of a once-vast market complex, a magnet that attracts millions of visitors.

Farangiz Salakhodjaeva

3 wonders

of Bukhara

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35 Legendary architecture

F

ounded 2500 years ago, the city stands at the crossroads of trade routes leading to Merv, Urgench, Kabul and Samarkand, and it keeps a centuries-old history of civilizations. Bukhara acquired its modern appearance during the Sheibanid and Ashtarkhanid dynasties in the 16th-17th centuries, when the majority of marvelous caravanserais and bathhouses, fortress walls and gates were built, as well as large architectural ensembles, tombs, mosques and madrassas.

Unlike Samarkand, a whole district of the old city was preserved in Bukhara: the walls of an ancient citadel, beyond which one could see religious buildings and bazaars, and more than 140 architectural monuments of the Muslim era.

The architectural symbol of the city is the Kalyan minaret, the highest construction of Bukhara, was built at the beginning of the 12th century, from which the muezzins summoned the Muslims in the city to prayer. According to legend, the great Genghis Khan, entered the square near the tower, looked up at the minaret and dropped his helmet from his head. Lifting him from the ground, he said: “I never bowed to anyone, but this building is so grandiose that it deserves a bow.�

It will take several days to embrace the beauty and heritage of the city, and even life will not be enough to study the whole history of the region. Architectual ensemble Lyabi-Khauz is formed with three large monumental buildings: Kukeldash Madrasah in the north, khanaka and Nodir Divan-begi in the west and in the east. Chashma-Ayub Mausoleum, Buyan Kuli Khan Mausoleum, the summer residence of Bukhara emirs - the city citadel Ark, the cult Gaukushon Ensemble, and many other masterpieces of medieval architecture are also among the architectural monuments of world importance.

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Travel

VISIT UZBEKISTAN

Hammam of 14th century tury. Though in outward appearance the bathhouses look inexpressive - these semi-basement structures pressed into narrow space amongst trading buildings scarcely rise above the surface with their low domes - they are interesting from cultural, historical and architectural points of view as good preserved examples of the civic-building in Bukhara in the 16-th century.Here everyone can plunge into atmosphere of the medieval East.

A

blution, in the East, has always been important part of religious worship, and a visit to a bathhouse was considered a “must” as part of standard of well-being of the citizens in Bukhara.

Particular significance was attached to medicinal and hygienic properties of baths have.Many of these baths have remained and successfully function today. In particular, there are two in Bukhara – BozoriKord and HammamSarrafon built in the XIV cen-

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Gifts of Bukharian cuisine

G

ijduvan kebab, Alatasamsa and pilaf - oshsofi, are among the three most popular Bukhara dishes.

Gijduvankebab is famousfor its delicate taste combines with incredible juiciness and rich smell.

Alatsamsa is named in honor of the Alat district in the Bukhara region. Juicy stuffing consists of black meat, slices of tomato and bell pepper.

Osh sofi is prepared in a copper cauldron with a large amount of sultanas exclusively in gingelly or cottonseed oil. It is said that the great healer Avicenna gave the name to the pilaf. Each letter of “palov osh” determines the ingredients of the dish: P - piez(onion), A - aez (carrot), L - lahm (meat), O - olio (fat), V- vet (salt), O- ob (water), Sh - shawls - rice. Bukhara chefs plentifully season the dish with zira and saffron, the medicinal properties of which have a general strengthening effect on the body.

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Gold embroidery

I

n every Bukhara family from a young age it is customary to accustom a child to work. All residents of Bukhara own a certain craft, the secrets of which are passed from one generation to another.

The most popular types of art are carpet weaving, gold embroidery, chasing, carving, blacksmithing and jewelry art.

The products of the Bukhara artisans are distinguished by its unique style and distributed around the world as souvenirs and adornments of museum expositions.

The most popular souvenir is azarchapan. The robeis made of local or imported single-colour velvet – blue, red, purple or green – and covered with goldwork. The metal thread used in goldwork consisted of a very thin flattened strip of silver or other metal covered with gold and twisted tightly around a silk or cotton thread. Since ancient times gold has been a symbol of sunlight and immortality, and therefore very popular in high society.

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Silk and velvet applique and projecting rosettes of gold threads imitating jewellery also quite often adorned cloths. The threads were put upon a fabric in parallel rows and fixed to the warp with cotton or silk threads. Traditionally gold embroidery is considered to have been men’s craft.

These robes were usually worn by Bukharian emirs and noblemen. There was another type of ceremonial robe, which was presented by the emir as a favour and which was often included in ambassadors’ presents. On important occasions the emir and his court were literally dressed in gold from head to foot. The skullcap, turban, robe, jacket, trousers, belt, boots, and even puttee were covered all over with gold patterns. In some cases, the ruler put on two or three robes at once, for which reason they were made very large. Trappings on their horses also used to gleam with gold.

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Architecture

VISIT UZBEKISTAN

ISLAMIC MONUMENTS IN TASHKENT

Tashkent contains a great number of religious monuments, buildings and sacred places. Their history encompasses more than 3000 years, starting with ancient monuments to modern architectural masterpieces.

Minor Mosque The Minor mosque is one of new sights of Tashkent located in the new part of the city. Minor Mosque is found to be the largest spiritual center among the mussulmans of Tashkent and whole Uzbekistan. The building of the Mosque is engineered in the traditional Central Asian style.

The mosque has two prayer towers

and a blue colored cupola. Minor Mosque in Tashkent differs from old mosques of bricks with its decoration from white marble. Minor Mosque is divided into front part with terraces, and a huge round hall with gilded mikhrab (niche directing to Mecca), which is adorned with sayings from the Koran.

Madrassah Barak-khan and Cathedral Mosque

Built in 16th century by Ulugbek’s grandson Suyunij-khan. Presently it accommodates the Clerical Board of Muslims of Central Asia. Next to it is the Board’s Library, containing a precious Quran written by the famous fourth Caliph Uthman, known as the compiler of Holy Qurans for the entire Islamic world.

The legend goes that he was murdered while working with the book, and it still keeps blood stains on its pages made of gazelle skin.

Mausoleum of AbuBakr-Muhammad Kafal Al Shashi Kafal Al-Shashi originated from the Shash region (present Tashkent) and was a missionary who propagated shafiitism. Also, he was a very educated person and mystic poet. He died in 10th century AD and his mausoleum, rebuilt in 16th century, was a popular pilgrimage destination for thousands of Muslims.

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