Visit Uzbekistan Magazine 23rd Issue

2020, â„–23 Surajkund 2020 10Mela

Your Personal Travel Magazine with BMB Trade Group 28 Export

Sky coloured art 32 Ceramics:

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Editor’s note

Founded by

Editor-in-chief Dinara Dultaeva Editor Zahra Kazimova Graphic designer Davron Abdullaev Sales & Distribution Nigora Jamolova PR Department Zarnigor Usmonova

A

Contributors Valeriya Galikhanova, Alena Gorbacheva, Irina Perova, Farangiz Salokhodjaeva, Aleksandra Stimban, Shivya Nath, Feruza France, Aziz Murtazaev, Alina Hasanova ny journey is about people: we make the most exciting discoveries when we interact with locals, finding the true heart of the nation.

To prepare this 23rd edition of Visit Uzbekistan magazine, we talked to many creative talents, visited atmospheric studios and workshops, travelled around the country to meet crafting dynasties, and kept an eye on most important cultural festivals. This issue is all about the arts and going beyond the ordinary.

It is therefore time to enjoy the stunning beauty of Uzbekistan’s applied arts, such as the ceramics of Khorezm (p. 32), Bukhara’s gold embroidery (p. 34), and many more. In addition, the story of Uzbek artist Sanjar Jabbarov and his paintings will inspire you to look at the world differently (p. 18).

Famous actress Rano Shodieva, who is not only a magic beauty, but also a big-hearted philanthropist, had kindly cooperated with us for a cover photo. She has picked her favorite Uzbek brand Mursak to demonstrate deep-rooted opulence of modern local fashion.

We are proud that Visit Uzbekistan magazine is not only a storyteller, but pursues a bigger mission of uniting likeminded people and bringing them together. Last year we launched the Visit Uzbekistan Partnership, an international business club which embraces experts from 12 countries and almost a hundred business owners and talents.

We are working together to support the nation branding of Uzbekistan.

We have big aspiration for 2020 in terms of expanding the Visit Uzbekistan brand, and we promise to keep inspiring you.

We are happy to be doing what we love, and always open for new collaborations and ideas.

Dinara Dultaeva Dinara UZ

@dultaeva

dultaeva

Proofreader Sophie Ibbotson Art director Mukhiddin A Lee Photography Mukhiddin A Lee, Andrey Arakelyan, Alokhon Abdullaev, Elena Allabergenova, Shivya Nath, CDS Art Foundation, Canoniy Photography, Yuri Korsuntsev, Istedod Usmonov, Zoom Central Asia, Kamola Salimbaeva Visit Uzbekistan magazine 2020, №23

Official partner The State Committee of the Republic of Uzbekistan for Tourism Development Dinara Media Relations PC Dinara&Co. Trademark Tel.: (+998 93) 500 55 65 www.dinara.co info@dinara.co The magazine is registered by Press and Information Agency of Uzbekistan on 12.05.2017. Registration number №0915 ISSN 2181-9254 Printed by “Print.uz” 41/2, Mirabadskaya street, Tashkent, Uzbekistan.

Order №272 All rights reserved. © Dinara&Co. © Dinara Dultaeva

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CONTENTS

VISIT UZBEKISTAN

10 EVENT: Uzbekistan: Partner nation of Surajkund Mela 2020

32 ART:

Sky coloured art

COVER Model: Rano Shodieva Photographer: Mukhiddin A Lee Dress: Mursak Coordinator: Zarnigor Usmonova Location: The State Museum of Applied Art and Handicraft’s History of Uzbekistan

2020, №23 Mela 2020 10 Surajkund

Your Personal Travel Magazine with BMB Trade 28 Export

Group

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Ceramics: Sky coloured art

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CONTENTS

CULTURE: Uzbek national dance.

A book without words

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46 MUST-TRY: Sumalak angel food

VISIT UZBEKISTAN

Point the camera to learn more:

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Discover Uzbekistan by train

TASHKENT

BUKHARA

TASHKENT

SHAKHRISABZ

TASHKENT TASHKENT Helpline number:

@Uzrailpass Advertisement.

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JS “O‘zbekiston temir yo‘llari” JS “O‘ztemiryo‘lyo‘lоvchi”

+998 71

299 94 50

Call center of railway station:

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EVENT

VISIT UZBEKISTAN

UZBEKISTAN: PARTNER NATION OF

SURAJKUND MELA 2020

For 34 years India has been the site of the largest festival of handicrafts in Asia: Surajkund Mela. Indian state of Haryana which hosted the festival welcomed over a million artisans and visitors from more than 60 countries.

Uzbekistan participated as a partner nation, and showcased its best national traditions of arts and crafts.

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he Surajkund Mela is hosted annually by the Haryana State Department of Tourism, with the assistance of the Indian Ministries of Tourism, Culture, Textiles, and Foreign Affairs. This year the festival took place from 1st to 16th February, with different programmes and activities every day, such as showcases of crafts, performing arts, architecture, cuisine, and more.

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Chairman of Uzbekistan Handicrafts Association Ulugbek Abdullaev thanks Brand Ambassador of Uzbek Culture and Tourism Ritu Beri

achievements in traditional handicrafts, national art, folklore, and gastronomy one such a large scale.

The unique concept of the Surajkund Mela is that every year a different Indian state is chosen as the festival theme.

This gives an opportunity for each state to demonstrate special examples of its cultural heritage, and to develop its local economy and tourism potential. The theme determines the style and whole look of the festival, giving visitors an incentive to come every year. As this year’s host, the state of Haryana provided the platform for talented artisans from across the country and beyond.

At the opening ceremony for the second time in the history of the Surajkund Mela, the President of India, Shri Ram Nath Kovind inaugurated the festival and made a speech about importance of Uzbekistan’s participation: “This fair also presents an excellent opportunity to witness the rich culture and the traditional art forms of Uzbekistan. India and Uzbekistan share strong cultural and diplomatic ties. Our geographical boundaries are not contiguous but our hearts are united together. Due to close partnership between the two countries in the areas of culture, art and agriculture, the people of Uzbekistan and India enjoy the warmth of closeness”.

Another aspect of the festival is that each year one foreign country is invited to become a partner. This allows different nations to exchange knowledge, experience, and culture, as well as inspire future partnerships and collaborations. Uzbekistan was proud to be the country partner of Surajkund Mela 2020, and to have the chance to display

Uzbekistan’s pavilions and cultural events have been organised by the Embassy of Uzbekistan in Delhi, the State Committee for Tourism, the Chamber of Commerce and Industry of Uzbekistan, the Hunarmand Association, local governments of the regions, and a number of partners. The delegation of Uzbekistan consisted of about 80

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President of India Ram Nath Kovind, Ambassador of Uzbekistan Farhod Arziev and the delegation visiting Uzbekistan Pavillion

people, including representatives of the Hunarmand Association, craftsmen, designers and jewelers from all regions of Uzbekistan, and musicians, folklore groups and cooks from Samarkand, Bukhara and Khorezm.

The Ambassador Extraordinary and Plenipotentiary of the Republic of Uzbekistan to India, Farhod Arziev, noted in his speech: “We express our gratitude to India for inviting Uzbekistan, as well as for the hospitality extended to our delegation. The participation of Uzbekistan as a partner country in Surajkund Mela is very symbolic, since last year Uzbekistan introduced its festival to the world - the International Festival of Handicrafts in Kokand. By supporting and promoting handicraft, we are creating new bridges for cultural interaction, helping the young generation use creative thinking, and demonstrate the best that is in the heritage of our countries”.

Attendees of the Surajkund Mela were able to immerse themselves in the cultural heritage of Uzbekistan through a series of events, such as the Day of Uzbek Culture, the Day of the National Cuisine of Uzbekistan, musical and

dance performances, and three fashion shows.

“FERGHANA FANTASY II” FASHION SHOW The most anticipated event of the festival was the fashion show “Ferghana Fantasy II” by famous Indian designer Ritu Beri, who is also Uzbekistan’s Tourism and Culture Ambassador to India and the honorary advisor of this year’s Surajkund Mela. She visited Uz-

bekistan several times and was moved by its originality and rich cultural heritage, which inspired her to create this special collection.

The collection got its name from the Fergana region in Uzbekistan, which is known worldwide for its ikat. Fergana still carefully preserves the unique traditions of the production of fabrics that are passed down from generation to generation. Ritu Beri created

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Ferghana Fantasy II, a fashion show by Ritu Beri united deep traditions of India and Uzbekistan

the quintessence of two cultures on the canvas of national fabrics. 30 costumes presented at the show were sewn from Indian fabrics and Uzbek ikat and decorated with various types of embroideries and suzani motifs.

To the rhythms of bewitching music, luxurious looks delighted guests with a combination of modern and traditional silhouettes.

Ritu Beri shared her thoughts on the collection: “It gives me great pleasure to present the next Ferghana Fantasy collection at the largest festival of handicrafts in Asia, Surajkund Mela. I have great respect for the culture and art of Uzbekistan, and during my visit to the International Festival of Handicrafts in Kokand, I was inspired by the diversity of colours and talents of masters of textile, embroidery, ikat and jewelry. As the ambassador of culture and tourism of Uzbekistan, I make

every effort to promote the potential of Uzbekistan in India. Our people have a lot in common and now these relationships are reaching a new level. I am working on a new collection dedicated to Uzbekistan, and this time I plan to present it in the historical city of Samarkand”.

The open-air show brought together about 1,000 guests, including representatives of the Government of India, senior officials of the state of Haryana, diplomats, the media, culture and art figures, as well as representatives of the participating countries of the festival. The fashion show was able to incorporate the atmosphere of the festival and become a vivid demonstration of the culture and art of Uzbekistan.

Vijay Vardhan, Deputy Minister of Tourism of the State of Haryana, said: “The guests were very impressed with

the bright and colourful show, which so skillfully combined the elements of Uzbek and Indian heritage. Ritu Beri is an internationally recognised fashion professional. Her participation in the Surajkund Mela festival adds diversity and enriches the programme of the event. She once again confirmed her talent and devotion to the unity of nations. Through the art of fashion, we once again felt how intertwined the culture of Uzbekistan and India is through the centuries”.

Surajkund Mela 2020 indeed was a spectacular festival which accomplished its mission – to unite people through the virtue of arts and crafts.

The fact that this fair has happened for 34 years speaks for itself and makes it clear how loved it is across India and other countries.

ADVERTORIAL

VISIT UZBEKISTAN

LEADERS IN HOSPITALITY

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very time you leave for somewhere new, you leave behind your home, your routine, and sometimes your family and friends. Therefore, it is important to make sure you find your home away from home, and arrange a comfortable stay at your destination. Hilton Tashkent City — brand new 5-star hotel in the capital of Uzbekistan — can easily become that homey place, and will make your trip go as smoothly as possible. A well-rested body and mind is an integral part of travelling, especially if you travel on business.

When you know you can come back to your temporary home to unwind, relax, have a tasty meal, a good sleep and rejuvenate, you will be more

likely to add just one more activity to your day and one more unforgettable memory to your heart.

Arranging your stay, especially somewhere you have never been before, can be challenging. But it becomes much easier when you can choose a brand you know and trust. Hilton is a leading brand in the hospitality industry, with more than 5,900 locations in 114 countries. The hotel chain has vast expertise and knowledge, as during its 100 year history Hilton hosted more than 3 million guests.

Now guests in Uzbekistan also have the chance to experience the true comfort and convenience

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of booking and staying at Hilton.

Hilton Tashkent City is the first hotel in Uzbekistan developed under the brand of Hilton Hotels & Resorts. This 21-storey hotel offers 258 spacious rooms of different categories, including standard and executive rooms, luxurious corner suites, and eight presidential suites decorated in French, English, Arab, and classical styles. Those staying in the executive and luxury suites also have access to the executive lounge area, where there’s a buffet breakfast, snacks, and drinks available throughout the day. Hilton’s Presidential Suite has an area of more than 250 sq m and includes a living room, dining area, and kitchen.

Along with comfortable and cozy rooms, you have the opportunity to relax in the Serenity spa centre, enjoy the swimming pool and jacuzzi, and unwind in the sauna. Moreover, you don’t need to sacrifice your fitness regime on your holidays as there’s a modern fitness centre within Hilton Tashkent City and it is open 24 hours.

Regarding gastronomical experiences, Hilton Tashkent City offers delicious options for every taste. At the panAsian restaurant City 21, you will not only be able to indulge in tasty southeastern cuisine, but also be mesmerised by the bird’s eye view of beautiful Tashkent.

The Hilton breakfast is served in Restaurant Shosh, and it will make sure you have the best start to your day. At the Tumbler Bar, you will have a chance to try unique traditional dishes, and the Lobby Lounge is a great spot for coffee, drinks, and mouthwatering desserts.

Hilton Tashkent City is also an excellent choice if you want to host an important event or celebrate a special occasion.

The total events area covers 2,453 sq m and includes five multi-function conference rooms, as well as a spacious banqueting room with access to the summer terrace. All conference rooms are located on the first and second floors, which makes it easy to move

around during conferences and events.

In addition, the hotel is located next to Tashkent’s Congress Centre, which can accommodate up to 4,000 people.

The Hilton is the only hotel in Tashkent where all the event halls have natural lighting, so you can be sure that your event will have a special atmosphere and ambiance.

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EVENT CALENDAR

WHAT TO DO

VISIT UZBEKISTAN

IN UZBEKISTAN IN 2020

In addition to visiting the timeless architectural monuments and cultural sites, there are plenty of events in Uzbekistan which will keep you entertained year round. Some are so impressive that they justify your trip. We have compiled this list of the most interesting events and festivals in Uzbekistan in 2020 so you can be sure that in every month of the year there’s a perfect reason to visit the country.

January MOUNTAIN SPORTS It is always a good idea to start a new year with winter sports and activities. Uzbekistan’s variety of mountain resorts offer comfortable stays, delicious food, smooth slopes and extreme ski routes, plus cable cars, all of which get you outside in the crisp and fresh air. Uzbekistan’s snow sports are an under-appreciated pleasure, and you will not be disappointed when you discover them for yourself.

Location: Tashkent (Beldersay and Chimgan), Jizzakh, Kashkadarya, and Surkhandarya Regions

February

A MASTER-CLASS IN KHOREZM FISH DISHES The Amu Darya River flows along the border of Khorezm, so the people of this region consume more fish than those living elsewhere in Uzbekistan. Khorezmians even cook traditional pilaf with fish: their traditional recipe is unique. Learn how to cook these delicious fish dishes, and then enjoy a tasting.

Location: Ichan-Kala, Khiva Date: 16th February 2020

March

ULAK-KUPKARI GAMES Enjoy the traditional equestrian competition that is Ulak-kupkari. The objective of this sport is to carry a trophy (usually a lamb or a goat) across the finish line without dropping it. Riders on the other

team try to intervene and wrestle away the trophy, and scoring with it at their own end of the pitch. Spectators will also be able to try delicacies of Uzbek cuisine at this thrilling community event.

Location: Jambay District, Samarkand Region Date: 25th March 2020

April

INTERNATIONAL GASTRONOMIC FESTIVAL In the heart of Samarkand, festival visitors will be able to familiarise themselves with delicious Uzbek produce, as well as learn the traditional cooking techniques of the different regions of Uzbekistan. This is a prime opportunity to get to know Uzbekistan through its food.

Location: Central Park, Samarkand Date: 10th-11th April 2020

May SILK AND SPICES FESTIVAL One of the brightest and liveliest festivals of the year brings together a range of talented craftsmen, artists, designers, cooks, and musicians. For two days, Bukhara turns into one big arena, showcasing all the beauty and originality of local culture. This is truly a spectacular event which is guaranteed to make you fall in love with Uzbekistan.

Location: Bukhara Date: 30th-31st May 2020

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June EXHIBITION: CRAFTSMEN OF AN INDEPENDENT COUNTRY The highlight of the applied arts calendar in Uzbekistan will be this exhibition of works by the notable craftsmen of Uzbekistan, accompanied by masterclasses to inspire your crafty side. Applied arts are at the heart of Uzbekistan’s cultural heritage: touch our history with your hands, and contribute to our culture at this exciting event.

Location: Tashkent Date: 5th-7th June 2020

July

REGISTAN GIANT’S CUP Those who fancy exercising their brand in a strategic arena will enjoy this international chess tournament held in the heart of Samarkand in the famous Registan Square. Well-known chess players and young grandmasters will compete for glory, and the square will be decorated with giant chess pieces which will make for great and memorable photos from the event.

Location: Registan Square, Samarkand Date: 20th-21st July 2020

August

SILK ROAD CARNIVAL Uzbekistan is a country that played a key role on the Great Silk Road. Many of its traditions and elements of cultural heritage Uzbekistan gained during those times. International event dedicated to the traditions and customs of the countries of the Great Silk Road is a great opportunity to learn about that era and how it still echoes in our modern lives.

Location: Samarkand Date: 14th-15th August 2020

September

INTERNATIONAL FESTIVAL OF ELECTRONIC MUSIC “STIHIA” Stihia is Uzbekistan’s answer to Burning Man: a festival of electronic music in the desert. Returning this summer, the surreal location is Karakalpakstan’s so-called graveyard of ships, a dried-out part of the Aral Sea. With the

hypnotic sounds of the music directed towards the lost sea, the mission of the festival is to bring awareness to this ecological disaster and encourage more responsible usage of water in the region.

Location: Muynak Region, Republic of Karakalpakstan Date: 11th-12th September 2020

October

UZBEKISTAN CUP Uzbekistan’s athletes show great prowess in weightlifting, and the Uzbekistan Cup is the most important national sports championship of the year.

Spectators can watch the event as the tension between competitors builds, then relax with a walking tour of beautiful Samarkand tasting of traditional dishes.

Location: Samarkand Date: 16th October 2020

November

TASHKENT INTERNATIONAL TOURISM FAIR "TOURISM ON THE SILK ROAD" Tashkent International Tourism Fair is the most important tourism trade fair in Central Asia, and this year the theme is Silk Road tourism. Here, you will be able to get acquainted with all angles of Uzbekistan from all angles, from traditional crafts to food. Each region of the country will have a designated stand, so you can get ideas for your next trip, as well as network for business.

Location: Tashkent Date: 18th-20th November 2020

December

WINE TOURS You can drink Uzbek wines year round, but December is the best time of year to visit the vineyards and tour the ancient wine cellars of Tashkent and Samarkand.

Each wine tasting will be accompanied by the gastronomic specialties of winter, and the end of the year is the perfect excuse to indulge!

Location: Tashkent and Samarkand Date: December

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ART

VISIT UZBEKISTAN

The Enchantress of Florence 1, 2017

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Artist

Sanjar Jabbarov A secret door to a world of serenity

Text: Alina Hasanova

There are times when you do not need to decipher the meaning of the painting, or to try and understand the thought process of the artist. It is enough that the painting makes you feel. This is especially true of the works of modern Uzbek artist Sanjar Jabbarov, who uses innovative approaches to express his creativity.

S

tylish colour schemes, sophisticated yet faceless female images, and exotic plants and birds make the artistic style of contemporary artist Sanjar Jabbarov unique and immediately recognisable. In his paintings, the artist often seems to stop time by capturing for eternity an unexpected state of mind.

the heroines of his paintings are not familiar to him. They do not belong to any particular nationality and ethnic group, but are collective female images. In each image the audience can see the face of a woman in their own lives. The artist did repeatedly try to draw faces in his paintings, but it was as if the brush refused to obey its master.

In Jabbarov’s works, states of serenity, harmony, and solitude are entwined. A distinctive feature of many of his paintings is the depiction of faceless women. As the artist himself notes,

Jabbarov was born in 1986 in Gulistan, Uzbekistan. In 2008, he graduated from the Department of Industrial Design at Kamoliddin Behzod National Institute of Arts and Design in

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ART

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Tashkent. He worked for two years in the Gallery of Fine Arts of Uzbekistan, and then went to study English and global culture in Australia.

Even whilst away from home, Jabbarov continued to draw, getting inspiration from the touring exhibitions of famous European and American artists in Australian museums. Jabbarov compares Australia to paradise on earth with its unusually beautiful nature, developed culture, and the open-minded and friendly people who contributed to the wonderful experiences that he gained there.

After the young artist returned to his homeland, Jabbarov took part in an international biennale. He presented his work in the UAE in an exhibition at the Andakulova Gallery, and also participated in an innovative contemporary art project at ART HUB in Abu Dhabi.

The Enchantress of Florence 2, 2017

In Tashkent, Jabbarov has had several successful personal exhibitions. Dinara Dultaeva, a big fan of modern art and editor-in-chief of Visit Uzbekistan, organised a solo exhibition of Jabbarov’s work in 2017. It was called Enchantress, and was inspired by Salman Rushdie’s novel, The Enchantress of Florence, in which the artist dedicates a collection of paintings to a woman. The 20 paintings in Jabbarov’s exhibition caused great excitement amongst those who saw them. They were beguiled by the paintings’ beauty, sophistication, and unique colour palette.

Jabbarov’s work silently teaches us to listen, to truly hear ourselves, and immerse us in a state of self-knowledge.

Examining the artist’s paintings, one can hear silence, the notes of great classical works, or the sounds of deeply hidden moods and feelings.

A PARTNERSHIP FOR TOURISM GROWTH Supporting Uzbekistan’s economic and touristic growth is key for the Visit Uzbekistan team. With our international partners, we are launching a new partnership for public and private sector stakeholders to develop and promote the tourism sector, enabling Uzbekistan to realise its potential.

Benefits of joining the Visit Uzbekistan partnership includes: Collective B2B and B2C marketing; Hospitality and communications training; Representation at international trade shows and consumer travel events; Market reports and analysis;

B2B networking opportunities; Access to international consultants and service providers; Designated website and social media channels.

The Visit Uzbekistan website will be launched along with the partnership in autumn 2019. For more information, please contact Dinara Dultaeva (dinara@dinara.co).

ADVISORY COUNCIL OF THE BUSINESS PARTNERSHIP VISIT UZBEKISTAN: Sophie Ibbotson, Ambassador of Tourism of Uzbekistan in the UK, Founder of the Maximum Exposure Agency, UK. Provides strategic development planning, market research and reports, PR and logistics services, and introductions to business and policy leaders.

Egor Sharai, chief editor of Concierge Magazine, United Arab Emirates. The magazine is published in Dubai in 4 languages for a quarter of a century and plays a leading role in the UAE tourism market. Company provides support in entering the market and promotion destinations in GCC countries.

Axel Porsch, founder of Porsch Communications, Germany. Communication consultancy firm (media planning, media purchasing, media optimization), works with advertisement agencies as well as with direct clients.

Yulia Shukina, founder of the Know-How Media agency for the promotion of countries, Russia. The company is an integrated approach to promotion touristic-products of the National Tourism Offices, hotels, airlines, travel companies in social networks and in the media.

Tan Bilge, head of media buying agencies in Turkey and Germany. Media Ltd. is an Istanbul based international media groups with expertise of TV, print, digital and outdoor media. Covers media buying in Germany, France, Middle-East, Italy, UK, India and China.

Karen Anand, Karen’s Gourmet Kitchen Pvt Ltd, India. Karen is a famous businesswoman, food writer, founder of gourmet manufacturing in India. Since 2018 she started organizing luxury tours to Uzbekistan from India.

Mauro Lovecchio, founder of Studio Lovecchio in Italy, the Czech Republic, China, and Uzbekistan. The company consults on investment in real estate and tourism infrastructure (Italy, Estonia, Uzbekistan).

Gleb Borukhov, Investment Director, Realia Capital Group, London. Investment management company works in a multifamily office format and manages the capital of private wealthy clients. As part of its investment activities, Realia specializes in structuring and managing direct private investments.

Giorgi Tskhakaia, co-founder of the Azerbaijani company GLCC Solutions for state reform consulting. The consulting company covers the entire range of public sector reforms.

If you want to get more information about the Business Club Visit Uzbekistan, we are ready to provide you with a presentation or answer your questions by phone.

Tel.: +(99893) 390 00 98

info@dinara.co

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COLLABORATION

VISIT UZBEKISTAN

Presents

Visit Uzbekistan and La Passion chocolate boutique found themselves having the same desire to tell the world about Uzbekistan. It is true to say there are variety of ways of doing it, but we chose the sweetest one. This shared value inspired us to collaborate and create a collection of chocolates which highlight the peculiarities of every region of Uzbekistan.

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U

zbekistan is like a box of chocolates. You never know what story lies behind each treat. Although our love for our country occupies big parts of our hearts, that does not mean we do not have a spare space for chocolate. Chocolate is always a good idea, especially if it helps connect us with treasures and traditions of our beloved country.

This is the reason why Visit Uzbekistan decided to collaborate with La Passion and offer you the “Uzbekistan Collection”. 14 treats handmade by the masters of La Passion with quality and natural ingredients are carefully selected and inspired by every region of Uzbekistan. We believe that it is a unique and definitely the sweetest way of experiencing this country.

The book that comes with the chocolates will help you learn more about each treat, its origin and the legend behind it. This way you know exactly what you are tasting – a special piece of history. As holidays are approaching, we recommend the chocolate box as a perfect gift that will impress anyone and become a centerpiece of your coffee table. What is more, we offer the service of personalization where you can brand your chocolate box and the book according to your preferences.

Choose this gift as a present for your corporate staff and put the logo and the colour story of your company on it. We are sure it will not leave anyone indifferent and probably boost your company’s productivity! You can also use it as a present for your guests and business partners and this clever advertisement option will ensure your company is remembered leaving them with positive impressions about you and our country Uzbekistan.

Here is an example of a chocolate treat from the “Uzbekistan Collection” and its story.

SAMARKAND

Dark Chocolate with Soyaki raisins According to the legend, Amir Temur’s beloved wife, BibiKhanum, was fond of Soyaki raisins and always ordered to add them to her food – from traditional desserts all the way to the main dishes, like famous Samarkand pilaf. Since then, the pilaf in the region is always made with Soyaki raisins. We decided to experiment with this treat and discovered a beautiful combination of rich dark chocolate and sweet Soyaki raisin.

Taste the love of the royals!

PREORDER NOW! “Uzbekistan Collection” is ready for preorder. Get it just in time for the holidays! Call La Passion or Visit Uzbekistan.

ABOUT LA PASSION

Handmade chocolate in Tashkent!

La Passion founded in 2013 in Uzbekistan is the first handmade chocolate boutique and workshop that combines premium quality and unique taste. The company specializes on creating exquisite treats ready to buy from the store, along with taking orders on making chocolate gifts: original compositions, bespoke sculptures, caramel and chocolate figures and more. All products are made exclusively from high quality Belgian chocolate – Barry Callebaut, Belcolade.

Company strives to provide every lover of real chocolate with varied and tasty delicacies, thanks to a careful selection of components, as well as unique production technologies. At the same time, they always remain true to their rule – only fresh and natural ingredients, the absence of preservatives and the originality of the recipe.

CONTACTS La Passion Address: 6 Babur Street, “Next” Mall, Yakkasaray district, Tashkent, Uzbekistan Call at: +99893 393 88 58, +99898 3688585 Visit Uzbekistan Address: 60B Konstitutsiya Street, Mirabad district, Tashkent, Uzbekistan Call at: +99893 390 00 98 We will be happy to hear from you!

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EVENT

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handicrafts IN KOKAND I N T E R N AT I O N A L F E ST I VA L O F H A N D I C R A F T S

Every two years in September, the ancient city of Kokand in Fergana region of Uzbekistan will turn to be the liveliest and brightest city in Uzbekistan.

It’s all thanks to the International Festival of Handicrafts, which debuted in 2019 and was the first large-scale event focused on bringing awareness to the rich history and culture of Kokand.

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okand, a city with a unique oriental spirit, is included in the World Craft City list, the first city from the CIS to be awarded this status. It was appropriate, therefore, that it be chosen to host such a festival. It was organised by the Hunarmand Association, the Chamber of Commerce and Industry, the Ministry of Culture, the State Committee of the Republic of Uzbekistan for Tourism Development, and the Art Academy, Academy of Sciences, and local governments of the Fergana Region. Among the attendees were state and public figures, more than 370 skilled craftsmen, scientists and specialists, artists and cultural figures, as well as honoured guests from 78 countries around the world.

The goal of the festival was to tell the story of Kokand, a city which was a stopping point for the Great Silk Road caravans.

Since those ancient times, the local population has been engaged in arts and crafts, and to this day they still maintain the region’s heritage and fine traditions. The festival became not only a reason to showcase the talents and skills of local artists and craftsmen, but also a way to revive and preserve those traditions, and to exchange experiences between different schools of crafts, from woodcarving and metalwork, to ornamental painting and other. The event also inspired the youth — the future generation of craftsmen — and built a bridge connecting them with the cultural heritage of Uzbekistan. President Shavkat Mirziyoyev also highlighted the importance of this event in developing the tourism potential of Uzbekistan.

In the heart of Kokand, in the famous Khudoyar Khan Palace, the festival united hundreds of participants from different regions of Uzbekistan and countries of the world. Traditional folk music accompanied the festival, which truly set the mood and inspired visitors to sing and dance along. Visitors also had the chance to enjoy exhibitions about the history of crafts, watch competitions between craftsmen, try the national cuisine, visit Kokand’s sites, attend master-classes led by foreign and local craftsmen, get acquainted with Uzbek fashion at Kokand Fashion Week, and more. The conference component of the festival was devoted to the prospects of handicraft and applied arts, and was attended by 36 researchers from 26 countries. The Kokand Resolution on the Development of Applied Arts and Handicrafts was signed. The closing of the festival was marked with an awards ceremony and gala show, followed by fireworks which definitely left the guests with unforgettable memories.

It is worth noting that a delegation from India participated at the International Festival of Handicrafts, including the Uzbekistan’s Tourism Ambassador to India, Ritu Beri; the Deputy Minister of Tourism of the State of Haryana and the head of the organising committee of the Surajkund Mela, Vijai Vardhan. As these two events have much in common, it was decided to unite the festivals by signing the memorandum for mutual partnership which encourages further development and nurturing of Silk Road heritage, and the exchange of ideas and talents between the two countries.

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REPORT

VISIT UZBEKISTAN

Uzbekistan at the

The end of autumn 2019 was a special time for Uzbekistan as the Uzinvest Forum took place in London, one of the most developed capitals in the world. This international event focused on the investment potential of Uzbekistan, and it brought together European investors, government representatives, prominent Uzbek businessmen, the media, and more.

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resented by London-based Adam Smith Conferences and Eurasian Investor, the UzInvest Forum was organised in collaboration with the Ministry of Investment and Foreign Trade of Uzbekistan. Dinara&Co. was the communications partner of the event, and also took the opportunity to present the pilot issue of its new magazine, Dynamic Uzbekistan, a sister title to Visit Uzbekistan. This new project has been created to bring awareness to the analysis of Uzbekistan’s economy, reforms, and investment market.

Organised in the heart of London – Glaziers Hall, a historic place near the London Bridge — UzInvest Forum had a great turnout, welcoming delegates from all over Europe as well as a large delegation from Uzbekistan. This included representatives of various government and business circles, such as Laziz Kudratov, First Deputy Minister of Investment; Odilbek Isakov, Deputy

Minister of Finance; Atabek Nazirov, Director of the Capital Market Development Agency; Sunnatilla Bekenov, Director of the State Assets Management Agency; Zafar Khashimov, founder and CEO of Korzinka.uz; and others. The forum was attended

by Special Representative of the Prime Minister of Great Britain, Baroness E. Nicholson; representatives of international organisations and financial institutions; as well as the leaders of more than 150 leading British companies, banks, and investment funds, in particular British Petroleum, Shell, Rio Tinto, Chaarat, The City UK, Sturgeon Capital, and more.

According to experts, Uzinvest Forum was a landmark event in the history of British-Uzbek economic cooperation: some even described it as an Uzbek Davos in London. Participants learned about an emerging and prospective market as Uzbekistan, and in particular about recent reforms in the fields of legal protection,

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the privatisation and modernisation of capital markets, and economic liberalisation.

The opening speech was delivered by HE Said Rustamov, Ambassador of Uzbekistan to the UK and Ireland. Other notable presentations included one from Zafar Khashimov, in which he discussed how Uzbekistan was entering a new era, and thus has more promise for entrepreneurship. Ulugbek Azamov, Deputy Chairman of the State Committee of the Republic of Uzbekistan for Tourism Development, spoke about real estate development and its role in attracting tourists. Another presentation by Shakhrukh Sharakhmetov, Uzbekistan’s Deputy Minister of Finance, described the development of Uzbekistan with regard to changes in fiscal policy.

European investors also discovered the importance Uzbekistan puts on the connection between encouragement of the private sector and the overall development of the economy.

This narrative provided insight into the country’s position on an open and favourable environment for foreign investors, especially taking into account the Doing Business Rank of Uzbekistan, and the simplified tax and business start-up policies.

Overall, the forum and its content allowed European investors to look at Uzbekistan from different angles. It is worth mentioning that Uzinvest Forum in London was the first of a series of investment promotion activities planned by Adam Smith Conferences and Eurasian Investor which are aimed at supporting economic development in Uzbekistan.

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PROMOTION

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EXPORT FRUITS AND VEGETABLES FROM UZBEKISTAN with

Along with rich history and culture, one of the most unforgettable experiences in Uzbekistan is the food, especially fresh produce. BMB TRADE GROUP is an investment and consulting company who is an expert in the agricultural industry in Uzbekistan. One of their goals is to make Uzbek fruits and vegetables available for everyone in Uzbekistan and beyond by developing export opportunities.

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ature does its job in making the Uzbek produce so luscious and delicious. However, without the help of experts in the agricultural industry, we would not be able to experience such a variety of organic produce which is readily available and affordable for everyone.

BMB TRADE GROUP is that expert, a company which is focused

on the research and development of agricultural sector. They create favourable conditions for growing not only the best produce in the region, but also expanding the overall sector and developing export relations in order to allow other countries to experience the taste of Uzbekistan’s fruits and vegetables.

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With Chairman of the WDC Association S. Lisovsky President of the Republic of Uzbekistan, Shavkat Mirziyoyev, gave a speech on the Day of Agricultural Workers and set a goal for Uzbekistan’s farmers and exporters to increase the export value of fruits and vegetables to $2.5 billion by the next year, and to $5 billion over the next three years. This is an ambitious target, but achievable with the cooperation of government entities such as the Ministry of Agriculture, Ministry of Foreign Affairs, Ministry of Investments and Foreign Trade, and the diplomatic missions of the Republic of Uzbekistan abroad. Local businesses, including BMB TRADE GROUP, are also key in creating effective partnership models with foreign companies who wish to export fruits and vegetables from Uzbekistan.

Working together with the Embassy of Uzbekistan to France, BMB TRADE GROUP and French company Advantage Central Asia undertook market research. This predicted that Uzbekistan will experience stable growth in the agricultural sector, and a high demand for agricultural products from the European markets. The two companies therefore signed a joint venture agreement in Paris to establish BMB EUROPE for packing and exporting Uzbekistan’s dried fruits and vegetables to France in the amount of 480 thousand US dollars starting from 2020.

Another insight from the research is that Uzbekistan has advantageous conditions

With Ambassador of India Santosh Jha for growing saffron. BMB TRADE GROUP and Italian company OPERA SRL, supported by the Embassy of the Republic of Uzbekistan to Italy, signed a memorandum of cooperation. They will produce approximately 500 hectares of saffron in Uzbekistan, which will be exported to Italy and other European markets.

One of BMB TRADE GROUP largest current projects is the construction of modern agro-logistics complex in the Jizzakh region of Uzbekistan, which will be complete in 2021. The project resulted from a resolution of Uzbekistan’s Cabinet of Ministers and it is being implemented as an Uzbek-Russian joint venture BMB-NRC Agrologistics founded by BMB TRADE GROUP and its partner, the well-known Russian company National Reserve Corporation. This agro-logistics complex will serve as a ‘green corridor’ for the export of agricultural products directly to retail chains in the Russian market, and will work based on a single window concept for fulfilling permits.

BMB TRADE GROUP puts great effort into creating and developing export relationships for the agricultural sector in countries around the world. In order to do that, the company develops partnerships with embassies of Uzbekistan overseas, and broadens contacts with the ambassadors of foreign diplomatic missions. Moreover, the organisation participates in a variety of conferences to expand their knowledge and seek

With French partner D. Rodin growth opportunities. Recently, representatives of BMB TRADE GROUP took part in the Export Financing in Uzbekistan conference in Tashkent, where they discussed the export potential of Uzbekistan and ways of attracting financial resources.

BMB TRADE GROUP is always on the lookout for new partnerships and projects. The company already has extensive experience in export, and with the help of its agro-logistics complex, current strategic partnerships, and new projects, it is ready to discover new markets.

Considering the favourable conditions of the Uzbek market, growing export opportunities, and, of course, the delicious local produce, the agricultural sector of Uzbekistan is worth investing in. BMB TRADE GROUP is a reliable partner to assist you with the export of Uzbek produce, so that more households have a chance to taste the scrumptious fruits and vegetables of Uzbekistan.

CONTACTS Address: 74 street 1, Kibray passage, Mirzo Ulugbek district, Tashkent, Uzbekistan, 100077 Email: info@bmb-tg.uz Phone: +998712302299 Website: www.bmb-tg.uz Facebook: /bmbtradegroup Telegram:

t.me/bmbtradegroup

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CULTURE

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UZBEK NATIONAL DANCE A book without words

Text: Farangiz Salokhodjaeva

Uzbek national dance is more than just a dance: it is a way to feel the soul and plunge into the true originality of the Uzbek people. It is a book without words, which tells a beautiful story, immersing the viewer in the multi-faceted culture of the people.

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or centuries, Uzbek national dance has existed as a means of selfexpression, communication, and enlightenment. Incorporating the history and traditions of the people, this art form became the property of the people and is celebrated on the UNESCO cultural heritage list.

Each region of Uzbekistan has its own unique style and special dance technique. In hand movements and facial expressions, words are hidden.

But if you look closely, you can easily recognise the joy, sadness, or the story of love, expressed in an Uzbek way. Uzbek people have many types of dances, but they are usually divided into folk and classical styles.

Folk dances are based on dance traditions dating back to antiquity. They can be seen at family celebrations and mass festivals. Classical dances, unlike folk dances, need dedicated training.

The Fergana, Khorezm and Bukhara schools are among the main classical schools of Uzbek dance. The Fergana school is characterised by sensuality, an abundance of facial expressions,

smooth talking movements, light leisurely steps, and elements of pantomime. This school welcomes improvisation, which makes the performance even more emotional. The traditional dance of the Fergana Valley is called Tanovor (which translates as “pleasure of the soul”). It was first performed on stage by Mukarram Turgunbaev, the creator of the Uzbek stage dance, in the 1940s.

Khorezm dance can claim the status as the most emotional dance. It is the main creative outlet of the Khorezm people. From an early age, children begin to move to the rhythm of Lazgi, the incendiary dance which has become a symbol of Khorezm. Originally, Khorezm dances were performed only by men, either at city celebrations or in the palace of the Sultan. The movements were designed to imitate flying, galloping horses, and formidable rams, which personified the strong personality and character of the inhabitants of the region. No wonder that the great Avicenna described this dance as “giving life to the dead”.

Distinctive features of this famous dance are the kayrok instrument, which makes a sound when a flat stone touches a steel plate; choirma, a fur hat worn by male performers; and for the women, dresses embroidered with coins.

The Bukhara school combines traditions and cultures not only from Bukhara, but also from Samarkand. The Bukhara dance technique is multifaceted: smooth, gentle movements transform into energetic sharp turns and unexpected jumps. The hallmark dances of Bukhara region are considered Zaminbozi (“dance of the earth”) and Larzon (“the dance of fire”).

They are performed in bare feet, with various decorations on the body and clothes. Shaking all parts of their body, the dancers sharply fall to their knees, throwing their body to the side, and then standing up and swiftly swirling on the spot. Such techniques combine with the output of the musicians and into an exhilarating performance, causing a storm of emotions among an enthusiastic audience.

Regardless of which kind of dance the artist will perform, the dancers will always start by putting their hand on their heart, and then stretching it towards the audience. This gesture indicates that the artists’ performance is from the heart, and for the soul. It is true to say that this small element of the national dance sums up the whole spirit and essence of the Uzbek people which cannot be simply described by words.

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ART

VISIT UZBEKISTAN

SKY COLOURED ART

K Text: Valeriya Galikhanova

Ceramics are thought to be the first artificial material created by human hands. Over the centuries, the art of pottery has in turn flourished and declined. But in spite of this, ceramicists have kept alive their creativity, conquering a variety of shapes and forms. Whether it is a small jug or the Great Wall of China, or other epochal structures of antiquity, all of which are made from ceramic stone – red clay, their unique history is shaped by the hand of their creator.

horezm ceramics, one of the most ancient and authentic traditions, originated in the old city of Khiva in western Uzbekistan. This local ceramic style is simple and restrained, and looks almost unchanged after centuries.

Perhaps this is because Khorezm is quite separate and geographically isolated as a region, which made it less likely that other influences and cultural trends would affect the established artistic schools.

The background of Khorezm ceramics is a dense snow white, upon which are all shades of blue representing the sky and water. Refined cool shades together with elegant lines of plant elements create a harmonious, noble and unique pattern. The designs on the pottery echo the majolica decor on the walls of the Ichan-Kala, Khiva’s walled city, because the modern masters are direct descendants of those artisans who decorated the khan’s palaces and mosques.

The most common form of Khorezm ware is the badiya. These are large dishes with raised sides and a high lip. They are deeper than the usual serving dishes and can be conveniently used as pot lids.

Khorezm jugs (humcha) are used for storing water or milk, and they also have their own features. Inside, they are completely covered with a thick glaze, but it only partially covers the outside. If you wet the exterior of the jug, the cold water will

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soak into the porous baked clay. The water will gradually evaporate, and consequently it will keep the drink cool for a long time.

In Uzbekistan, ceramic tableware is considered to be a talisman or amulet.

Ceramic dishes are said to contain huge energy, because the clay from which they are made is infused with the energy of the Earth. When water is poured into such a dish, it becomes charged with positive vibrations.

Artisans combine plant patterns with geometric shapes on their product.

Many patterns echo those used in wood carvings and on fabrics. Some of these symbols have magical associations: look out for a square with a pointed dome, a snake, shoots, water, and the horns of a sheep. Most importantly though, the emotions and thoughts of the item’s human creator are encapsulated in the ornament’s decorative code.

The leading Khorezm ceramists of the late 19th and early 20th centuries were B. Vaisov, A. Palvanov, V. Ataniyazov, I. Kalandarov, M. Madaminov, and K. Samandarov. Their ceramic works are characterised by proportionality, refinement, graphics, and a harmonious sense of completeness. Over time, the patterns of Khiva ceramics were influenced by drawings on porcelain products and fabrics imported from Russia. The colour palette expanded and

a bright polychrome painting was used under a shiny lead glaze.

Two 20th century masters of the Khorezm ceramic school are Eshmurad Sapaev and Sultan Atadjanov. They produced mostly lighter works, using white angob (glaze from liquid clay) and flour. The decorative motifs of their glazed ceramics go back to the ancient time, and Sapaev’s badiya dishes are highly valued for their ornaments with ancient motifs.

Raimberdy Matchanov, the continuer of Balta Vaisov, is a famous master whose ceramics stand out for their clarity and the dynamic rhythm of their graphics.

The patterns on the products are twisted, almost as if they’re seen through a kaleidoscope. Matchanov used a lot of cobalt in his work, so his works are dominated by blue and darker shades.

Now Odilbek Matchanov continues his

father’s craft. Already a master in his own right, he has been fond of pottery since childhood and began to make his own products in 1989. Following his family tradition, Odilbek uses ground white glass and a lead glaze instead of the local alkaline glaze. He not only makes ceramic products, but also participates in the design of architectural structures with ceramic decoration.

Khorezm is associated not only with ancient architecture, but also with the blue ceramics which have been bought and treasured by travellers for centuries.

They say that Khorezm ceramics have a secret. If you click on the dishes, you can hear a sound similar to a soprano.

Therefore, when choosing dishes in the bazaars of Khorezm, as a gift or for yourself, it’s worth listening for this amazing acoustic property. Perhaps in that magical sound you will discover the secrets of this ancient city.

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LEGACY

VISIT UZBEKISTAN

STI TCH PERFECT

Text: Alena Gorbacheva

The gold embroidery of Bukhara

If your wish list includes a trip to one of the most ancient cities of Central Asia, Bukhara, you need to enhance it with the purchase of a gold-embroidered souvenir. This historical city of Uzbekistan, through which the Great Silk Road passed, is famous throughout the world for the art of gold embroidery known as zarduzi. It is in Bukhara that the past, present, and future of this unique art is concentrated.

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very stitch and detail of the gold ornament is executed with a jeweller’s precision. The general artistic composition of hand embroidery amazes the imagination and there’s no doubt that each example is a masterpiece, be it an accessory, an item of clothing, a piece of art, or an interior object. Through the centuries, the golden threads of Bukhara’s master embroiderers (zarduzars) connect us with history and proudly

tell of the significant events and great personalities of our land. The continuity of skills down through the generations of gold embroiderers has enriched the development of Uzbek culture.

We asked Akmal Hamraev, the Bukhara guide and blogger to take us on a tour of the enchanting, multifaceted world of gold threads.

“Embroidery with gold and silver threads originated in the early Middle Ages; it is on the historical and geographical maps of western Asia and Europe, the Caucasus, Turkey, and Afghanistan,” he says. “It was known in Sogdiana even before the appearance of silk.”

The art of gold embroidery was highly developed in Herat and Samarkand, but it was in Bukhara that the art form was

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assigned the greatest status of all. It was the art of the court, and flourished in the 16th century when the Shaybanids made Bukhara the capital of their state.

Masters write

There was further demand and development of this craft occurred in the 19th and 20th centuries. Embroidery threads were specially delivered from Russia. Gold symbolised sunlight and immortality, and silver was thought to drive away evil spirits. At this time, the gold coloured threads were covered with gilt, but now it is extremely rare to find such threads because of their high cost.

golden letters

Hundreds of highly skilled hereditary craftsmen made rich gold-embroidered robes for the nobility. They decorated them with precious and semi-precious stones: diamonds, emeralds, and pearls.

The emir and his entourage dressed in gold from head to toe during ceremonial trips. Sometimes rulers wore several dressing gowns, which were sewn in a deliberately voluminous form.

In addition to clothes, some household items were also decorated with gold embroidery.

Over the centuries, Bukhara’s masters have developed unsurpassed techniques, perfected their traditions and artistic styles, and created a unique golden handwriting. Popular techniques for embroidery are gulduzi (the embroidery of flowers) and zaminduzi (continuous sewing).

Hand-embroidery with gold thread is a laborious and complicated process. The embroidery is done on special wooden hoops. The gold thread is quite difficult to pass through the material, and therefore even the laying of threads on the surface of the fabric is an art. As a result, handmade products are highly valued and are much more expensive than machine embroidery.

Historically, gold embroidery was considered a male craft. One of the legends says that gold threads faded at the sight of female beauty, and in order to not waste expensive materials, the craft was entrusted to men. However, now many women are engaged in this type of art.

their names in in the history of the craft In Bukhara, gold embroidery is mainly applied to velvet, suede, leather and wool. A silk background is less common.

Preference is given to plain, contrasting shades — deep emerald, wine red, and dark blue — which emphasise every stitch and the intricate patterns of the shiny threads. The traditional ornaments of Bukhara gold embroidery are flowers; geometric patterns are used less often. Traditionally, you would see floral and leaf motifs combined with images of fruits. The silhouettes of animals and birds were not used in traditional gold embroidery in Bukhara until the 20th century.

Crafts by Bukhara’s masters are in great demand and popular among the foreign guests of Uzbekistan. Hand and machine embroidery products can be purchased in local bazaars and from stall holders at the historical architectural monuments.

The assortment of souvenirs includes

skullcaps and vests, shoes, clutches and bags, traditional elpigich fans, and the famous embroidered chapan coats, which are an essential part of the groom’s wedding suit, and are usually worn on special occasions.

Bukhara’s master craftsmen have written their names in golden letters in Uzbekistan’s history. They have managed to preserve the traditional art of gold embroidery and to pass it on to younger generations. Fine examples of their art are displayed in the museums of Uzbekistan, Russia, India, China, and beyond.

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HERITAGE

VISIT UZBEKISTAN

SECRETS OF CHUST skullcaps

“The mind, wisdom, conscience, honor and dignity of a man are reflected in his skullcap,” says the old proverb.

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2020 | Special Edition India

Text: Irina Perova Photo: Canoniy, Mukhiddin A Lee

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he skullcap is the most important element of Uzbekistan’s national costume. The name of the skullcap comes from the Turkic tube and translates as “on top”. A few decades ago, skullcaps were the main type of headgear in Central Asia. Today, older generations keep alive the tradition of wearing skullcaps, and they have become more and more popular among young fashion lovers.

The history of the skullcap goes back centuries. Confirmation of the existence of skullcap-like hats in ancient times can be found in sculptures, wall paintings, and terracotta figurines, and then later on they appear in the oriental miniatures of the 15th and 16th centuries. Their mass adoption in Central Asia occurred only in the 19th century, however.

The most common form of national headwear for men in Uzbekistan is a skullcap called a duppy. It is sewn in the Fergana Valley in the town of Chust in Namangan Region. The Chust skullcap is distinguished by its height: it is almost twice as high as the skullcaps made in neighbouring Andijan. Chust artisans embroider each skullcap by hand with characteristic traditional ornaments such as the baud (almond) and calampir (pepper).

They then enrich them with a variety of smaller patterns, which make each skullcap unique. The duppy is mainly worn by the residents of Andijan, Samarkand, Osh, Jalalabad, Dushanbe, and Khujand.

Skullcaps from Chust have four sides, and this symbolises protection from enemies from the four sides of the world. As a rule,

it is made of black fabric (which represents space and darkness), and the white embroidery threads are a sign of the sun. The pepper ornament is used as a symbol of life, family well-being, and is a talisman protecting the wearer from the evil eye.

The lower part of the skullcap is framed by a black silk tape. It is interesting to note that the 16 arches decorating the lower part of the skullcap are emblematic of the cyclical nature of life and death, and also promise wealth and vitality. The skullcap is convenient not only to wear, but also to store as it can be folded.

The manufacture of a duppy from cutting to pressing occurs in several stages. Experienced craftswomen gather young needlewomen around them, and each one performs her own part of the work. One cuts out the necessary details, the next embroiders the upper pattern, the third, meanwhile, is preparing a dense base, and the fourth has already embarked on sewing an entire skullcap from the components. In the very last stage, men are invited to make their contribution to the duppy shaping it into its traditional form by pressing the material.

Each Uzbek skullcap is not only an item of headwear, but also a way to represent and honour our nation’s heritage. Uzbek masters consider it their duty to teach younger generations these unique national traditions in order to keep them alive. The love for their roots and the deep spiritual meaning which Uzbeks put into every detail of their art cannot but echo in the hearts of the foreigners who visit Uzbekistan.

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CRAFT

VISIT UZBEKISTAN

ART THAT BEARS ART

C L AY F I GU R I N E S Text: Aleksandra Stimban

Since ancient times, the people of Uzbekistan have made pottery. The geometric patterns of Khorezm and Khiva masters, the finest lace ceramics of Rishtan, and the tan and green stroked dishes from Urgut are known far beyond the country’s borders. However, as with many types of craft, pottery leaves behind scraps, and Uzbek masters give them new life by making famous clay figurines.

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aking traditional ceramic products is a long and tiring process. But the ceramics masters have found an additional outlet for their creativity, using up left-over clay and having fun.

From ancient times, they have made small figurines and painted them in bright colours with ornamental patterns.

These items were not only toys, but also decorated modest rural interiors, and even served as ritual objects.

Modern folk clay figurines are very similar to those found in the archaeological excavations of settlements 1,000 to 1,500 years old. It is almost as if they were made by the same craftsmen. These primitive toys, baked on the fire, often played the role of an amulet, protecting the owner from harm.

It is no coincidence that one of the most popular motifs is a stylised dragon (ajdarho), which guards the house and drives away evil spirits. Each clay animal had a specific purpose: some helped in the hunt or promised a rich harvest, whilst others promoted good health or protected the home.

The most popular toy figurines were ones depicting the familiar environment of the artisans: a horse with a rider, rams, camels, hoopoes, and hens. Often masters shaped exotic animals, such as lions, elephants, and monkeys. These toys were not very realistic, because the masters had never seen them. To this day, you can still find clay figurines of mythical creatures which only exist in the imagination – fantastic animals with long noses or voluminous manes, elephant legs or a terrifying crest.

Uba Village in Uzbekistan’s Bukhara Region is famous for its clay figurines.

Traditionally, children, women, and elderly craftsmen worked in this craft.

They usually sculpt the toys in the winter months, so that by spring they could release a flock of fantastic creatures painted in red and blue.

It seems that modern toys were made by the same Zoroastrian masters

Bukhara clay requires long preparation.

At first it is steeped in water because the soil is very salty. Once the figurine is moulded, it is fired into an oven with a capacity of 400 figurines. The fuel in this furnace is called guza-pai: it is the dry branches of the cotton plant, which gives an intense heat.

Kubaro Babaeva is one of the last craftswomen who can tame pieces of clay.

The figurines made by her are almost indistinguishable from Zoroastrian ones made millennia ago. Still respecting the strict canonical forms, Babaeva manages to make each creation unique.

She is especially famous for her hushtak whistles, which she handpicks for every buyer. She tries to match the two energies, one human, and the other clay.

The Samarkand Region is famous for its terracotta figurines. They are not as bright as the glazed ones from Rishtan, and not as traditional as those from Uba. In the middle of the 20th century, Umar Dzhurakulov, a master ceramist, lived and worked here. Now Dilorom Mukhtarova continues his tradition. She kneads the mass of greasy local clay and soaks it in water. She fires her finished toys in an oven at a temperature of 1,000 degrees.

Clay figurines from Samarkand are inspired by amusing stories from real

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life: scenes from the teahouse and bazaar, family, clowns, old men on donkeys, and different characters from folklore. Each item is made with a dash of humour and a nod of tribute to the past.

Another centre for the modelling of toys is the Surkhandarya Region, where two cities are particularly famous for their figurines. In Denau, brothers Badal and Rasul Zukhurov work together to restore traditional ceramics. Whistles from Denau in the shape of birds and animals are unusual for their small size (up to 11 cm) and bright colouring mixed with a light blue glaze.

In Baysun, two types of ceramic whistles are widespread: one kind of whistle takes zoomorphic forms (usually birds, goats and rams); and the other are miniature household items such as flutes and jugs. These toys are made by one craftsman from the Eshankulov dynasty, who moved to Baysun from Bukhara in the 1880s.

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Finished figurines are fired in an oven at a temperature of 1000 degrees C. The master brings suitable clay from the village of Passurkh. It is crushed, sieved twice, and soaked for three days. One skilled master can make up to 30 toys per day. After sculpting, they dry for one or two hours, and then a hole for a whistle is made in the body. Products are sent for drying for one to two days, and then they are fired in an oven. After that, the toys are baked on the coals for about two hours. The final stage is glazing and drying. The figurines are then ready to make their journeys to shops and markets in neighbouring areas and tourist centres.

Despite all the differences in approaches, the traditional clay figurines from different regions have a common feature. Their subjects and forms have become more modern, and they are moulded more carefully and accurately. Today, figurines are more likely to be decorative than used as children’s toys, but they still hold the same child-like spirit and joy within them.

VISA-FREE

UZBEKISTAN

A VISA-FREE ENTRY REGIME APPLIES TO CITIZENS OF ANDORRA - ARGENTINE - ARMENIA - AUSTRALIA - AUSTRIA - AZERBAIJAN - BELGIUM - BELARUS - BOSNIA AND HERZEGOVINA - BRAZIL - BRUNEI - BULGARIA - CANADA - CROATIA - CZECH REPUBLIC - CHILE - CYPRUS - DENMARK - ESTONIA - FINLAND - FRANCE - GEORGIA - GERMANY - GREAT BRITAIN - GREECE - HUNGARY - ISRAEL - INDONESIA - IRELAND - ICELAND - ITALY - JAPAN - KAZAKHSTAN - KYRGYZSTAN - LATVIA - LIECHTENSTEIN - LITHUANIA - LUXEMBOURG - MALAYSIA - MALTA - MOLDOVA - MONACO - MONGOLIA - MONTENEGRO - NEW ZEALAND - NETHERLANDS - NORWAY - POLAND - PORTUGAL - REPUBLIC OF KOREA - ROMANIA - RUSSIA - SAN MARINO SERBIA - SLOVAKIA - SLOVENIA - SINGAPORE - SPAIN - SWEDEN - SWITZERLAND - TAJIKISTAN - TURKEY - UNITED ARAB EMIRATES - UKRAINE - VATICAN. IN ADDITION, CITIZENS OF 53 COUNTRIES CAN TRANSIT UZBEKISTAN FOR UP TO 5 DAYS WITHOUT A VISA AND CITIZENS OF 76 CAN APPLY FOR E-VISA FOR A LONGER STAY. Starting January 1, 2020, a visa-free regime will be introduced for citizens of 20 countries for a period of 30 days. Countries: Antigua and Barbuda, Bahamas, Barbados, Belize, Costa Rica, Cuba, Dominican Commonwealth, Dominican Republic, El Salvador, Federation of Saint Kitts and Nevis, Grenada, Guatemala, Honduras, Jamaica, Mexico, Nicaragua, Panama, Saint Lucia, Saint Vincent and the Grenadines, Trinidad and Tobago.

E-visa: The government of Uzbekistan provides simplified E-visa

regime for the citizen of 76 countries and a 5-day visa-free transit opportunity for 53 countries. An electronic visa is issued for 30 days, is single or multiple entries and valid for 90 days from the date of its issuance. To obtain E-visa, a traveler should apply on e-visa.gov. uz at least three working days before the planned date of arrival to Uzbekistan. E-visa will be issued within two working days excluding the day of application. The issued E-visa is sent to the e-mail of the applicant. The amount of the consular fee is $20 for single entry, $35 for double entry and $50 for multiple entries. Payment for E-visa can be made online from any bank card. An electronic visa is not attached to a travel document (passport). When crossing the border, a foreign citizen provides an electronic visa in paper or electronic form.

Visa-Free Transit: Passport holders of 53 coun-

tries who are transiting by airplane, can get a 5-day visa-free stay showing an onward boarding pass.

Foreign citizens can benefit from a 5-day visa-free transit procedure upon arrival at the international airports of Uzbekistan. Passengers need to provide an air-ticket to the third country and the carrier should inform the border authorities of Uzbekistan about passengers who are eligible for transit visafree entry. The list of foreign countries applicable to visa-free transit stay continues to expand. You can check the latest data on:

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REACH

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for the

STARS

Text: Valeriya Galikhanova Photo: Mukhiddin A Lee

Samarkand is an open-air museum. Here on Kuhak Hill stands one of the most significant sights, reflecting the rich historical, architectural, and scientific heritage of the city in the Middle Ages. It is the Ulugbek Observatory.

U

nder the rule of Emperor Ulugbek, Samarkand became an international centre of science. The motto of his 40-year reign was: “An ambition for knowledge is the duty of every Muslim”.

Ulugbek’s real name was Muhamadd Taragay, and from a young age he loved the natural sciences. He became famous not only as the creator of the observatory, but also as the founder of Samarkand’s school of astronomy. Ulugbek was the grandson of the great Amir Temur, and he often went hiking with him. Their trip to Sultania was an important turning point in his life, because it was here that he first saw

an unusual structure: an observatory. This experience made a strong impression, igniting a life-long passion for astronomy.

After he took the throne, Ulugbek ordered the construction of his own observatory, under the mentorship of his teacher Kazy-zade Rumi.

For the period, the observatory building had a very unusual shape. It was cylindrical, reaching a height of about 30 m, and with a diameter of 46 m. Construction was completed by 1428, and within it was a well-calibrated instrument for observing cosmic bodies. The scientist Jamshid Kashi was responsible for installing and adapting the astronomical instruments.

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Ulugbek spent all his free time within these walls. Supported by other scientists, he undertook various studies.

Major astronomers like Kazy-zade Rumi, Giyosiddin Jamshid Kashi, and Ali Kushchi worked here. Considering that there were no telescopes then, the measurements and observations made here were very accurate. This is down to the huge size of the sextant, and the skill of Samarkand’s astronomers. It is assumed that the observatory’s main instrument was used to determine the constants of astronomy: the inclinations of the Ecliptic, timing of the equinoxes, the duration of the year, and other values derived from observation of the sun, planets, and moon.

By 1437, Ulugbek and his fellow astronomers had compiled their famous Ziji Guragon (Star Catalogue), which described 1,018 stars and their arrangement in constellations. Each star had a

Ulugbek Observatory became an ispiration for many astronomers around the world

number, position in the constellation, magnitude, and coordinates. At the same time, they determined the length of the year to be 365 days.

Not everyone liked the ruler’s infatuation with astronomy, and in 1449, as a result of an insidious conspiracy, Ulugbek was killed. His observatory remained in use for the next 20 years, but then began turbulent times and the mass persecution of scientists. The observatory was abandoned, and by the beginning of the 16th century it was already in a severe state of disrepair. Thankfully, one of the students managed to take the Star Catalogue to Istanbul, and generations of astronomers from both east and west drew upon Ulugbek’s research for their own work. The renowned French astronomer Pierre-Simon Laplace called Ulugbek “the greatest observer in the history of astronomy”.

The magnificent Ulugbek observatory was also an inspiration for Maharajah Sawaii Jai Singh II of Jaipur to build five observatories — the Jantar Mantars — across northern India between 1724 and 1730. The reason for constructing multiple observatories in different locations was to ensure the accuracy of the observations by comparing them with each other.

Like many other architectural wonders, time took its toll on the Ulugbek Observatory, and it has completely lost its original appearance. In the early twentieth century, archaeologist L.V. Vyatkin discovered what was left. Only a part of the sextant survived. In the nearby Ulugbek Memorial Museum you can now see the tools found in the observatory, excerpts from the famous astronomical tables, and murals depicting moments from Ulugbek’s life as a scientist and a statesman.

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GASTRONOMY

of Uzbek CUISINE There’s a stereotype that all English people talk about the weather. It’s a topic about which the inhabitants of Uzbekistan are mostly indifferent. But a discussion about spices would arouse genuine interest, as these flavours are an integral part of national cuisine.

Text: Alena Gorbacheva

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W

hen a tourist visits Uzbekistan, they must first see the historic architectural monuments, and then experience the oriental bazaar. It’s an exotic world where colours, tastes, and aromas reign. The spice merchant looks like an artist before his colourful palette of loose paints and powders, with which he can create a masterpiece. In the hands of a skilled cook, paper bags of cherished ingredients can be transformed into all manner of gastronomic creations.

Indeed, the variety of Uzbek spices and the many ways in which they are used can make you dizzy.

We will begin our fascinating journey into the world of spices with sesame seeds, which are sprinkled on fragrant bread and juicy samsa (meat or vegetable filled pastries). Black and white seeds with a slightly bitter taste add a piquant flavour to freshly baked goods.

Zira (cumin) can rightfully claim the role of queen in the realm of spices. It is famous for its amazing taste and inimitable aroma. Culinary specialists therefore use it generously in main dishes such as pilaf and manti (dumplings), and they add it to broths, meat dishes, and marinades. Zira has a bitter taste, and so it is recommended to add it at the very beginning of cooking.

In the past, gods of the Greek Olympus worshiped the bay leaf. Now it is idolised by chefs who want to give their gastronomic creation a zesty taste, whether they are creating an ordinary

shurpa (soup) or meat or fish dishes.

This miracle leaf is also indispensable in home canning and marinades, where it produces a wonderful flavour in tandem with black pepper peas, garlic, and dried dill.

Coriander seeds are another seasoning which neither a gourmet nor a cook can resist. They are used both in their original form, and also ground.

Coriander is added both to broths and sprinkled on top of barbecued meats.

Black pepper has been briefly mentioned, and it is certainly worth focusing on. This hot spice is a universal ingredient for any dish of Uzbek cuisine, be it a rich meat broth, pilaf, lagman (noodles), manti, appetisers, salads, pickles, or marinades.

Having become acquainted with star anise, you will never confuse it with another spice. This is all thanks to its shape in the form of an asterisk filled with seeds. Since ancient times, this spice has been valued for its unique taste, aroma, and healing properties.

Star anise is used in the preparation of hot dishes, and in a ground form for baking, as well as being added to teas and other drinks.

Red or green peppers are easy to find both in the dry spice merchant’s tray and on the counter amongst the fresh vegetables and herbs. It is important to use pepper subtly, so that it gives heat but without a pungent odour. With its help, you can give an incredible taste to any dish, but with inept use you can spoil the food once and for all. Aesthete gourmands especially appreciate the serving of the whole cooked pepper, which decorates the finished dish, whether pilaf or shurpa.

Admirers of Uzbek pilaf (also known as osh, or plov) appreciate the sour taste and barely noticeable aroma of barberries. These berries are also used in meat dishes and sauces. Those with a sweet tooth can enjoy them in homemade jams. These dried scarlet (or sometimes black) berries are rich in vitamin C.

It is true to say that, the seasonings described above can be purchased in supermarkets. But there, some of the mystery and magic disappear. After all, the secret of delicious dishes begins with the purchase of spices, which is a very special ritual. You would not want to miss the pleasure of seeing a riot of coloured spices at the bazaar, breathing in their aroma, learning about the useful properties of each spice, and writing down a new recipe in your culinary notebook. There’s a joy in conversing with a talkative merchant who, in addition to your purchases, will definitely add an extra sample of spices so that you will surely come back here again. East is a delicate matter. But with a special aroma and taste.

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MUST-TRY

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SUMALAK angel food

Text: Alena Gorbacheva

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I

n Uzbekistan, as in the other countries of Central Asia, New Year is celebrated twice: once on 1 January, and then again on Navruz, the spring equinox, which according to the solar calendar falls on 21 March.

The winter holiday is celebrated as it is around the world with the festive decoration of a tree and the home, but the traditions of Navruz are even more ancient, infused with sacred meaning.

On these holidays, it is customary for the people of Uzbekistan to meet with relatives and friends, have fun, sing and dance, and kindle a symbolic fire. The meeting of the New Day (which is how Navruz is translated from the Persian language) is accompanied by gastronomic abundance.

At the spring dastarkhan (feast), special status is assigned to sumalak, a tasty, healthy and nutritious dish cooked from sprouted wheat grains, flour, and cottonseed oil. The etymological origins of this word are unclear: one option is that it is derived from the Old Turkic word suma, meaning “steamed wheat”; another suggestion is that the word means “30 angels”. Another version interprets the meaning of sumalak as ‘thirty angels’. It is interesting to note that wheat grains are associated with Navruz in a different way as well. Couple of weeks before Navruz, families start preparing maysa (sprouted wheat grains). By the time Navruz arrives, the grains will have grown into wheat grass. They become a decoration for the festive table, and symbolise the start of new life.

THE SACRAMENT OF COOKING SUMALAK The process of preparing and serving this traditional Navruz treat is called Sumalak Saili (Sumalak Holiday). The

night before Navruz lit cauldrons with cherished delicacies saturate mahallas and streets of the country with their dizzying arom. The atmosphere is charged with cheerful chants, dances, and thousands of good wishes: this is obligatory ceremonial accompaniment to cooking sumalak, which takes almost a whole day to prepare. The reason why sumalak turns out so sweet and tasty lies not only in the recipe, but also in the unity, friendship, and mutual assistance provided by the community in which it is made.

PREPARATION Cooking sumalak begins long before the moment when the main ingredients are put into the cauldron. First, wheat grains are carefully selected, cleaned and washed, and then soaked for two to three days. The water is drained, and the grains are laid out on a clean, smooth surface. The grains should be covered with a moist cloth for 10-12 days to prevent the sprouts from drying out.

The reason why sumalak is so tasty lies in the friendship and unity of people When the seeds have sprouted, they are crushed and washed several times in running water. Then, with the help of a cloth, they are squeezed and strained.

Water is added to the strained liquid, and the mix is ready to brew. This process is repeated three times. The finished portions are filtered again and stored in three different vessels, because during the cooking of sumalak they will be poured into the cauldron one by one.

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RECIPE

THE MAGIC BEGINS

The components of sumalak are sprouted wheat, cottonseed oil, flour, and ... stones. Yes, you read that right. Round, smooth pebbles are the first “ingredient” to be put into the preheated boiler, as they will create the optimal temperature and protect the dish from burning. They also have a symbolic meaning. If one of them is caught in your portion of sumalak, you need to make a secret wish and save the pebble as a talisman.

You must admit that a dish entwined with riddles and legends will be tastier.

Sumalak begins its story the moment when everyone gathers around a hot cauldron, says prayers and kind words, and make wishes. A respected man will open the lid, look at the shapes drawn on the surface of the sumalak by angels, and interpret their meaning. These are predictions for the year ahead.

The cauldron must be warmed up well.

Oil is then poured in and brought to a boil. After that, the flour is added, followed by the first portion of the wheat liquid. After the ingredients come to the boil and start to thicken, the second portion of liquid is poured in. The same process is repeated for the third portion.

The mixture must be boiled for a long time and continuously stirred to prevent lumps from forming.

Finally, the fire under the cauldron is extinguished, and the vessel with the sumalak is tightly sealed with a lid and wrapped in a coverlet which allows it to brew for several hours. This delicacy should turn out thick and sweet, and should have the colour of caramel.

Sumalak is called “angel food” because of a legend about a poor woman and her hungry children. Weakened, they asked for a food, and mother was forced to lie. She took out a cauldron, poured water into it, and threw sprouted wheat therein. Smiling through tears, she stirred the brew and convinced her children that she was preparing a hearty, tasty meal. Then she put pebbles to the cauldron, telling them that it was meat.

All day and all night she cooked the food, and she fell asleep from fatigue and hunger. Waking up in the morning, she was surprised to find her cauldron filled with a brown substance and a drawing of angel wings on the surface. Then she fed this meal to her children and neighbours. This is how the tradition of treating others to sumalak on the day of Navruz began.

FACTS Sumalak is a storehouse of nutrients and healthgiving substances. It contains essential amino acids, enzymes, carbohydrates, magnesium, potassium, zinc, calcium, sodium, iron, folic acid, and vitamins A, B1, B2, B3, B5, B6, C, and E. Sumalak strengthens physical health, gives vitality and energy, improves metabolism, increases haemoglobin levels, and strengthens the immune system. Sumalak is especially good for children and pregnant women.

In 2019 the cities of Tashkent and Namangan prepared 7 tonnes of sumalak in celebration of Navruz. Dozens of cooks were involved, plus a giant cauldron and a huge stove. The sweet treat was then distributed to the orphans and spectators of the event.

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Useful phrases for guests of Uzbekistan Hello Assalomu Alaykum Good morning Khayrli tong Good afternoon Khayrli kun Good evening Khayrli oqshom Thank you / Thanks Rakhmat Please Markhamat / Iltimos Sorry Kechirasiz All right / OK Yakhshi How are you? Yakhshimisiz?

What is your name? Ismingiz nima?

It’s nice to meet you Tanishganimdan khursandman Just a minute please Bir daqiqa Welcome Khush kelibsiz.

May I take a look at it? Ko’rsam maylimi?

OK Kelishdik See you later Ko’rishguncha I’ll come back later Keyinroq kelaman What time is it? Soat nechi bo’ldi?

How do I get there? U yerga qanday boraman?

How far is it? Qancha uzoq?

How much is it? Nech pul?

Wow! Why it’s so expensive? Voy, nega buncha qimmat?

Make it cheaper! Arzonroq qilib bering!

What is it? Bu nima?

Exit / Entrance Chiqish / Kirish Toilet Khojatkhona Can you help me? Yordam bera olasizmi?

My number is Mening raqamim…

Have a nice trip Oq yo’l Goodbye Khayr

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HOUSE OF PEOPLE Text: Irina Perova Photos: Zoom Central Asia

There are places in Tashkent which you can’t find in the guide books. This is why we think that it is worth asking locals about the city’s hidden gems. One of those treasures we want to share with you in this issue is Human House, a place with a very special energy.

O

n one of the central streets of Tashkent there is a multifunctional art space called Human House. This place is unique because it is infused with the centuries-old history of the families who have lived here, and their spirits inspired the name of the studio. It smells of home and hospitality, and every day brings a new story and new guests, who seem to leave a piece of their hearts behind. Human House hosts various master-classes, meetings of like-minded people, and charity events. Having stepped over the threshold, you will be offered tea and Uzbekistan’s national sweets.

Human House is not just a store selling the works of more than 200 artisans. It is also a versatile art space with an atelier, a cosy café, and an adobe courtyard. Guests usually hurry to climb onto the roof of the house, enjoy the view, feel the atmosphere of old Uzbekistan, and have a cup of tea. The house was built not of concrete but of clay, so it remains cool in summer and warm in winter.

Originally, this house was a home, and to this day families return here, telling their already grown-up children that this is where they spent their childhoods. The founder and head of Human House, Lola Saifi, shared one of many such stories: “On an autumn day, the door opened and a girl came in saying that it was her house before. We greeted her very warmly, as it is always a special moment to see those who lived here”.

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In addition to local inhabitants, Human House is beloved by artisans. It is here that they have the opportunity and outlet to share their creations with locals and tourists alike. Lola Saifi is proud that so many want to be part of this creative family and present their work within the walls of this art space.

Today, not all talented people have a place to implement their ideas. The main goal of Human House, therefore, is to identify artistic talent and to create a welcoming environment in which it can flourish.

Collaborations are actively encouraged: anyone who wants to share their art can approach the studio and be sure that their ideas will be listened to.

We asked Lola Saifi: “Human House. What is it?”

“The house of people!” she answered.

In the past, Human House has exhibited in Moscow, but at the moment Lola sees the creative arts flourishing in Uzbekistan, and it is more interesting for her to live here than in Russia. She recognises that Human House has a role to play as a platform and incubator of talent, and that as people get tired of official events, Human House can provide a more homely environmental for celebrating special occasions. This conviction — and the atmosphere it creates — resonates in the hearts of Human House’s many fans.

We encourage you to step beyond the traditional sightseeing routes in Tashkent and to dive a little deeper. You will find more than you were looking for.

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STORY

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Traveling outside the box

in uzbekistan

Text and photos: Shivya Nath

Shivya Nath dreamed of travelling the globe, so she quit her corporate job, packed her life into a backpack, and hit the road. She shares her experiences and travel tips on her blog, and has also written a best-selling book, The Shooting Star, which is a memoir of her nomadic life. Recently, Shivya found herself in Uzbekistan, and she generously contributed her moving story of living in the Nuratau Mountains to Visit Uzbekistan magazine. We hope this inspires you to go beyond your comfort zone and welcome adventure into your life.

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A

couple of days before, when I arrived in Central Asia for the first time, the region felt rather alien to me.

Unknowingly, I began looking for a bridge that connected me to this unfamiliar world, to enter a zone in my mind which made this strange land feel like mine.

Ditching the typical tourist places to visit in Uzbekistan, I journeyed in a shared taxi from Tashkent to the small city of Jizzakh, and further on to the Nuratau Mountains. The connection with the vast landscapes felt instant. We rolled into the village of Uhum – literally, the land of gold – where I had booked a homestay. Like many Uzbek people, my host family lived in a stone and wood summer house, shaded by walnut trees at least a 100 years old. A few steps below flowed an icy stream originating from a mountain spring. The stark and stunning

vistas, with mud houses, old apricot trees, striking desert oases, and warm people, made me feel like I had arrived home in the remote, barren Himalayan regions of Spiti or Ladakh.

As my Uzbek host family welcomed me with green tea and nuts, and excitedly exclaimed “Shahrukh Khan!” on hearing I was from Hindustan, I knew the bridge in my mind had been crossed.

With no wi-fi or phone connectivity, the mountain stream became my source of new connections. Each time I sat by it, the cool breeze on my sunburnt cheeks and icy water on my tired feet, someone from the neighbourhood came along to show me a glimpse of their world.

The feisty five year-old daughter of my big host family held my hand and walked me along the length of the stream, showing me where to cross, which fragrant herbs to smell, and which stunning fallen leaves to collect. The nephew and his friend had a water splashing competition which got us all drenched. We collected wild mulberries growing by the stream, and munched on them as the blazing sun dried us off. Together, we climbed the mountains for a bird’s eye view of this striking green oasis by the water. In the morning, we hiked through walnut orchards in search of 2,000 year-old petroglyphs – rock carvings of mountain goats sketched by our ancestors!

The grandmother and her sister slipped away from their kitchen chores for a while to rest under the trees… and when they saw me, this curious girl who had travelled alone from Hindustan, they jokingly pointed to the stream and said: “This is the Ganga of Uzbekistan!”

Over breakfast, I learned that most Uzbek people are unfamiliar with the concept of veganism. My hostess looked perplexed at first, but then decided to experiment with a delicious vegan khanum, somewhat like momos stuffed with carrot, cabbage, and pumpkin.

When extended family came to visit, I deciphered that upon hearing Hindustan, Uzbek people immediately reminisce about the Taj Mahal, Shah Jahan, Humayun Shah, and Babur Shah. It’s a strange nostalgia, one that connects us and makes time feel like a set of stairs, possible to traverse both ways.

On my last night in Uhum, after we had finished dinner and the stars were yet to shine, my host family and I sat on a tapchan under the walnut tree, playing spin the bottle. Whoever it pointed to had to sing. It turned out that despite living in a remote mountain village in the Nuratau Mountains of Uzbekistan, with little connectivity or outside influence, my hosts were serious Bollywood fans. Together we sang and tabledrummed a mix of local folk, Uzbek rap, Hindi songs, and some Bollywood music even I’ve never heard before.

After the others called it a night, I turned off all the lights and lay alone for a while in the darkness, under the shimmering sky.

The sound of the flowing stream gushed into my ears. A familiar sensation rushed through my mind. That unfamiliar land felt like home.

Shivya’s blog: www.the-shooting-star.com Instagram: @shivya

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P OW E R F U L B E AU T Y O F

Uzbek women

Dilnoz Erkinova is a talented Uzbek designer who brings to life Uzbek traditions and craftsmanship on the canvas of beautiful fabrics. Inspired by the legend about the women in the fortress of Kyrk in Kyz-tepe, we approached her to help us share this story through a series of photos that depict the power of an Uzbek woman.

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T

he origin of the Dilnoz brand began in Dilnoz’s childhood, when little Dilnoz liked to embroider with beads and silk threads. “My grandmother and I had a tradition,” the designer recalls. “Before each holiday, she used to open a large chest with various fabrics. My grandmother gave me the fabrics I liked, and while I was standing there, I thought of styles and possible combinations”. Perhaps it was this tradition which played a big role in Dilnoz’s life, and ultimately determined her profession as she entered the Institute of Arts and Design with a dream to become a fashion designer.

Dilnoz created her first collection during her studies, and thus started her successful career. She presents her work at many fashion events such as Tashkent Fashion Week (TFW), where she participates every year. During TFW 2019, Dilnoz launched several unique collections.

One of them was the DS Collection - a collaborative collection with Solo Mattina, a stylist and graduate of the Milan Domus Academy. The designers fashioned more than 50 looks, creating the perfect mix of Uzbek and European styles.

Dilnoz finds inspiration in many things.

She shared that her main muse is Uzbekistan itself, its friendly people, traditions and, of course, legends. The legend of Kyrk-Kyz inspired us to create a collaborative project with Dilnoz as her collections are all about highlighting the women beauty.

The legend of Kyrk-Kyz (Forty gilrs) says that when the army approached the fortress and began the siege of the castle, brave girls led by Gauhar defended the fortress.

Countless days and nights they repelled the attacks and killed many enemies. Only Gauhar and several other girls remained. It seemed that the hope left the fortress, but Gauhar kept fighting. She got mortally wounded, but was able to stand up. Bloody helmet fell from her head, she raised her saber and said: “I am Gauhar and I challenge your commander to a duel”. The leader approached Gauhar, looked into her eyes and realised that he could not take the city. Turning to his warriors, he shouted loudly: "I saw the pearl of this city and am satisfied with what I saw. We are going back home!” As fast as they arrived, the army disappeared over the horizon. One last time Gauhar looked at the steppe and gardens, and while her eyes were closing forever they lit up with joy, and she whispered: "The city is saved".

We decided to recreate the image of Gauhar, a brave and beautiful woman who stopped the force of the army with her love to her home and people. In order to do that we approached the Uzbek model and blogger, Aziza Halilova, to represent this woman warrior. Dilnoz helped us style Aziza with magnificent pieces from her collection. Photographer Kamola Salimbaeva joined us to conduct the photo shoot. Thinking about the legend, the team of women united together and tried to demonstrate the gentle strength of Gauhar in a photo. We

believe that Aziza was able to perfectly express the love and power with her eyes, probably the same way Gauhar did.

The outfits highlighted the beauty of Aziza, and although they are not suitable to fight the army, they show the powerful beauty of an Uzbek woman.

Hopefully the story of Kyrk-Kyz interpreted with the help of Dilnoz, Aziza and Kamola, inspired you to find your inner Gauhar and to gain more appreciation for the women in your lives.

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PROMOTION

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EN ROUTE TO KINDNESS Every organisation, especially the one that gains more growth and recognition, has a social responsibility before its community. Transportation and logistics company Wondernet Express not only provides quality services in its category, but also exercises its social responsibility and makes sure to give back.

W

ondernet Express is a company that provides transportation and freight-forwarding services for export-import and transit cargoes by rail, road, air and sea transport. The company was established in London, and has a subsidiary in Tashkent, founders of which are Dmitry Abdushelishvili and Alisher Ikramov.

Company has partners in many countries, such as Russian Federation, Kazakhstan, Turkmenistan, Kyrgyzstan, Georgia, Latvia, and Estonia. Thanks to its wide knowledge base and experience, the company guarantees the best solutions and quality of performance.

In partnership with an American company Trammo AG, Wondernet Express works on the construction of the multimodal terminal in Batumi, Georgia aimed at transporting the mineralbased fertilizers from Central Asian countries to the world mar-

kets. Warehouses of the terminal will allow storing of more than 60 thousand tons of cargo at a time. Also, company plans to invest in the reconstruction of the terminal in the port of Alyat in Azerbaijan with the help of which this transport corridor will become the shortest route from Central Asia to Black Sea opening up a range of opportunities for economic growth.

In addition to the fulfillment of their main operations, Wondernet Express has a corporate social responsibility division of the company, which works with the aim to support social programmes directed at the development of science, art, culture, sports and healthcare.

Company strives to improve the quality of the material and technical base of healthcare institutions and ensure optimal accessibility to the specialised care. Thus, the company do-

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nated two fully-equipped and custombuilt reanimobiles of the automaker MERCEDES-BENZ SPRINTE to the Ministry of Health of the Republic of Uzbekistan. Moreover, Wondernet Express donated three pieces of equipment to the Republican Specialised Scientific and Practical Medical Surgery Center named after Academician V. Vakhidov: Aquilion ONE GENESIS CT TOSHIBA – a system for volumetric computed tomography; ILUMIEN OPTIS – Intravascular Ultrasound System scanner; and LIVER ASSIST donor liver washer, which helped with first ever liver transplant surgery in Uzbekistan. Recently, the company donated BBraun equipment for hemodialysis, along with Hyundai Grand Starex ambulance to the children's hematology department of the Research Institute of Hematology and Blood Transfusion. To-

tal cost of the equipment was more than $3 mln. Donating such equipment to the Uzbekistan’s healthcare makes it possible to provide more opportunities for local patients so that they do not have to approach foreign medicine.

Another mission of the social project is to preserve and popularise the cultural values which have a particular importance for both national and world heritage. For that, company sponsors many charity musical and art events, such as the concert of Vanessa Mae, famous violinist; the concert of Keiko Matsui, Japanese keyboardist and composer, which was held in Tbilisi; and more. Vanessa and Keiko performed together with the Youth Symphony Orchestra under the direction of Kamoliddin Urinbaev in order to support the orchestra. Proceeds from another concert of Vakhtang Kikabidze, company used to purchase the necessary medicine for children and patients of the children's hematological department of the Research Institute of Hematology and Blood Transfusion in Tashkent. The singer later visited the hospital and brought medications and gifts for the kids.

As part of the social project, company also supports youth initiatives in the field of science, culture, art and sports.

Recently, Wondernet Express issued a collector’s edition of the famous poem Farhad and Shirin by the great Uzbek poet Alisher Navoi. It was the first time in Uzbekistan when this work of art was translated into English. Another book issued by the company was The Knight

in the Tiger Skin by the great Georgian classic Shota Rustaveli. The company hopes that thanks to these initiatives more people would be inspired to discover the rich cultural heritage of Uzbekistan and promote it abroad.

Wondernet Express is open to new ideas, partnerships, and routes that lead to kindness and compassion. It is important to support companies like these, as they not only develop their professionalism and expertise, but also their philanthropic endeavors by giving back to the community.

CONTACTS Address: 20a Sadik Azimov 3rd passage, Yashnabad district, Tashkent, Uzbekistan Email: logistic@wonderexp.com, info@wonderexp.com Phone: +99871 140 02 43, +99871 236 02 43 Website: wonderexp.com

Address: 1 Ataturk street Landmark: Academic Russian Drama Theatre +998 71 +998 71

203-00-33 203-00-34 autograph.uz

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Alone with art

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2020 | Special Edition India

IMMERSE IN ART

T

he AUTOGRAPH Gallery was founded in 2016 and in a relatively short time managed to conquer its niche in the cultural landscape of Tashkent. The recently updated Autograph gallery brand opened its doors to visitors with a new interior, where the art started shining with new colours. The gallery combines the work of both famous and emerging talented artists. The aim of this space includes the promotion of contemporary art, as well as the sale of artworks. In addition, you can enjoy looking at sculptures, graphics, and works of applied art, as well as participating in creative workshops.

AUTOGRAPH Gallery also hosts international events, such as the launch of French company Veolia Environnement’s office in Uzbekistan. The Myday pop-up store, a traditional New Year fair, brought together the most beautiful and fashionable guests of the capital in one space. Among them you could find many creative personalities, presenters, bloggers, designers, and the representatives of famous brands.

Exhibitions here change every month, and during the gallery’s existence it has hosted works by eminent artists of Uzbekistan and young artists whose names the city has heard for the first time. The exhibitions reflect the different trends and directions of contemporary artists.

Every guest and tourist who comes to Uzbekistan is inspired by this colourful country’s souvenirs. They can find the best selection by visiting the AUTOGRAPH Gallery, which sells not only special souvenirs and gifts, but also unique art pieces created by master artists from across Uzbekistan. These will please even the most discerning art lover. The gallery encompasses a complex with three halls, where visitors can browse the artworks, or purchase them in order to take a piece of this beautiful country with them.

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VISIT UZBEKISTAN CHOICE

V

isit Uzbekistan magazine is proud to announce its brand new partnership with the Hoteliers Association, and new column called Visit Uzbekistan Choice aimed to make the life of a traveller a little easier.

It is true to say that travelling is one of the most fulfilling experiences. It enriches our lives, broadens our outlooks, allows us to see new places, and to learn about different cultures and lifestyles. However, we all know that travelling can be stressful, especially if you are visiting somewhere for the first time. Creating an itinerary, allocating a budget, and planning everything can be a time consuming and tiring process.

One of the choices you most probably have to make when arranging your travel is finding a suitable hotel. With a wide range of online services and reviews it might seem as an easy task, but the volume of options can feel overwhelming. In partnership with the Hoteliers Association, this column will provide you with the best hotel options for your travels to Uzbekistan.

VISIT UZBEKISTAN

HOW IT WORKS Feruza France, a deputy chairman of the Hoteliers Association, is an international expert in the hotel industry, and will be staying for one night as a mystery guest at different hotels in Uzbekistan. Her comprehensive quality assurance programme will help hotel owners to identify areas requiring improvement and training, and monitor customer service, brand and product standards, and overall customer satisfaction. Feruza’s three main areas of assessment are: • Overall quality • Critical areas (cleanliness, hospitality, bedrooms, bathrooms, and breakfast) • Provision of services and facilities After each visit, Feruza meets with the owner of the hotel to discuss her experience and highlight all aspects of her stay.

She then shares her thoughts and opinions with us. Only the best hotels will be rewarded with the Visit Uzbekistan Choice award and featured in this magazine. In this way we hope to be able to eliminate your stress of finding a hotel, leaving you with fewer things to worry about when planning a trip to Uzbekistan.

At Visit Uzbekistan we are very excited about this partnership, and are looking forward to providing guests with the best hotel options in this and future issues of Visit Uzbekistan magazine.

FERUZA FRANCE: “The rapid growth of tourism and the development of the hotel industry have benefits for society but take a toll on the environment. I believe it is this sector’s responsibility to act in a way that reduces its ecological footprint. Therefore, when reviewing a hotel I will pay attention to this aspect and raise awareness about it in Uzbekistan”.

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2020 | №23

Sayyoh Hotel The first hotel reviewed by our mystery guest and awarded the rank of Visit Uzbekistan Choice is Sayyoh Hotel in Uzbekistan’s capital, Tashkent.

Sayyoh Hotel is a new, modern-style, 3-star hotel in Tashkent. It provides guests with a variety of amenities to make their stay comfortable, safe, and relaxing. The hotel offers three types of en-suite rooms with heating and air conditioning. Services include free Wi-Fi throughout the property, a 24-hour front desk, spacious lounge area, hairdressing, an on-site mini market, daily housekeeping, and free parking. The hotel also offers an airport transfer services for added convenience.

Review from Feruza France SERVICE AND FACILITIES • Courteous and friendly staff provided great service and went the extra mile • Fast check-in and departure with luggage assistance. Also allowed me to check in four hours early with my young son • Detailed orientation of the ground floor areas and rooms • Visa and MasterCard are accepted, and an ATM is available • Grocery store, pharmacy, restaurants, and metro are within walking distance • Designated smoking areas on each floor.

CLEANLINESS • Housekeeping performed very well throughout all areas of the property • Both room and bathroom were clean and smelled fresh • Bed linen was crisp and clean, and soft furnishings were spotless • Hotel uses non-toxic cleaning supplies and detergents.

BREAKFAST • Breakfast buffet offers Continental options and a choice of hot dishes to suit all diets and tastes. The chef can also prepare breakfast on request • A nice selection of healthy foods, vegetables, fresh fruit, and fresh juice • At least one vegetarian option was available

• The breakfast table neatly laid: cutlery, crockery, and glasses were well polished.

— No dairy-free or sugar-free alternatives were offered for breakfast — No labels of dishes were displayed on the buffet table.

BEDROOM • Bed was very comfortable with sprung mattress and fresh linen • A good size dressing table • High quality carpets, and the curtains coordinated well with the soft furnishings • A good range of TV and radio channels were available on the flat screen TVs, which are in every room • Hotel provides a pair of slippers as well as bottled water, a kettle, cups, and tea • Soundproof windows and doors ensured my rest.

— General wear and tear signs: few small stains on the carpet and headboards, and some scrapes on the wallpaper.

BATHROOM • Bathrooms with good quality fixtures were clean and smartly decorated • Towels were soft and fluffy • The floor has a safe, non-slip surface • Refillable dispensers for toiletries show hotel’s attempt to reduce their plastic usage by cutting back on single-use miniature toiletry bottles.

— No heated towel rail was available for drying the towels.

PUBLIC AREAS • Areas are in the style of the property and very well presented • Excellent interior design with high attention to detail • Comfortable common lounge area • Attractive use of pictures, prints and other decorations, such as flowers.

Sayyoh Hotel is a great hotel in Tashkent which will ensure a cozy stay, offer delicious food, and provide all necessities in order to make a trip easy and comfortable. Moreover, the hotel shows that it is environmentally conscious, which is a big plus. Regarding the shortcomings, I discussed them with the hotel management, and they decided to add the points to their action plan so that guests have the best possible experience at Sayyoh. I recommend this hotel to guests in Uzbekistan, and hope this choice will ease the hassle of planning your trip.

4/1 Al-Khorezmi street, Tashkent, Uzbekistan +998 95 170 27 33 www.sayyoh-hotel.uz

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VISIT UZBEKISTAN

U seful A ddresses Visit Uzbekistan magazine is now available at:

BEGIM PARFUM GALLERY

AUTOGRAPH ART GALLERY

1. 7 Shahrisabz st., Yunusabad district, Tashkent Tel.: (+998) 71 233 84 84

1 Ataturk st., Mirabad district, Tashkent, Uzbekistan Tel.: (+998) 71 203 00 33 Web: galleryart.uz

2. Samarqand Darvoza mall 5A Karatash st., Shaykhontohur district, Tashkent Tel.: (+998) 71 205 03 64 3. Kontinent mall 2 Mirabad st., Yakkasaray district, Tashkent Tel.: (+998) 71 256 61 66

HYATT REGENCY, TASHKENT 1A Navoi st., Tashkent, Uzbekistan Tel.: (+998) 71 207 12 34 E-mail: tashkent.regency@hyatt.com

4. Mega Planet mall 2B Ahmad Donish st., Yunusabad distict, Tashkent Tel.: (+998) 71 150 87 58 5. Next mall 6 Bobur st., Yakkasaray district, Tashkent Tel.: (+998) 71 230 75 34 6. Compass mall 17 Tashkent Ring Automobile Road, Mirabad District, Tashkent Tel.: (+998) 71 205 15 85 Web: parfumgallery.uz

ORIENT FINANS BANK 5 Osiyo st., Tashkent, Uzbekistan Tel.: (+998) 71 200 88 99 E-mail: info@ofb.uz

THEATRE-STUDIO SILK ROUTE MARIONETTES Samarqand Darvoza mall, 5A Karatash st., Shaykhantahur district, Tashkent, Uzbekistan Tel.: (+998) 95 198 83 83 (ticket office), (+99893) 515 20 51 Web: marionettes.uz

HILTON TASHKENT CITY Islam Karimov st., Building 2, Block 5, Tashkent, Uzbekistan Tel.: (+998) 71 210 88 88 Web: tashkentcity.hilton.com

THE STATE MUSEUM OF APPLIED ART AND HANDICRAFT’S HISTORY OF UZBEKISTAN 15 Rakatboshi st., Yakkasaray district, Tashkent, Uzbekistan Tel.: (+998 71) 256-40-42, 256-39-43 Web: www.artmuseum.uz